YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

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TRAVELS IN
THE GREAT DESERT
OF SAHARA,
IN THE YEARS OF 1845 AND 1846.
CONTAINING
A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL ADVENTURES, DURING A TOUR OF NINE
MONTHS THROUGH THE DESERT, AMONGST THE TOUARIOKS
AND OTHER TRIBES OP SAHARAN PEOPLE j
INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF
THE OASES AND CITIES OE GHAT, GHADAMES,
AND MOUEZUK.
BY JAMES RICHARDSON
&a>vrf (3ocovto$ iv Tjj eprjfito.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON :
EICHAED BENTLEY, NEW BUELINGTON STEEET,
PuMitfrjer tit <©rtftnarr) ta ®er iWafcjftg.
M.n.rrr.xLvin.

HARRISON AND CO., PRINTERS,
45, ST. martin's LANE.

CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME,

CHAPTER XVI.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Arrival at Ghat, and reception by its Inhabitants. — The Cold
of The Sahara. — Haj Ahmed, the Governor, and Sheikh
Jabour. — Distribute Presents to the Governor and Jabour.
— Visit the Sheikh Hateetah, styled the British Consul of
Ghat. — Make the acquaintance of the Tripoline Merchant
Haj Ibrahim. — The Ghat Rabble. — Ouweek arrives in
Ghat. — A Visit from Touarick Women. — Arabs begging
from me by force. — Arrival of Kandarka from Aheer. —
Bel Kasem's account of the Slave Trade. — Visit to Haj
Ahmed, the Governor ; his Character and Establishment
described. — Bel Kasem's Sick Slave. — All classes of People
attempt to convert me to Mohammedanism. — Bad effect
of an European Tourist assuming the Character of a Ma
hometan. — Touarghee mode of Saluting. — Miserable
condition of Slaves on arriving from Soudan. — Soudanese
Merchants friendly to me. — Visit from the Governor. —
Report in The Desert of Christians Worshipping Idols. —
Make the Acquaintance of a young Touarghee. — Slave
Trading and Kidnapping Slaves up The Niger. — Eco
nomical Bill of Expenses of Journey from Ghat to Soudan

CHAPTER XVII.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Gloves an enigma of Wonder. — Visit Sheikh Hateetah. — All
Men equal at Ghat.— Crowds of People surrounding my
House to see me. — Violent Act committed on a Man at
Prayer in the Mosque. — Extent of European Literature
known at Ghat. — Continue unwell. — Ouweek's public
Apology. — Dances of the Slaves. — A Saharan Emeute. —
a 2

IV CONTENTS. PAGK
Arrival of Caravans. — Return the Visit of the Governor.
— Europe, a cluster of innumerable Islets. — Who has most
Money, Christians or Mahometans? — People more used
to my presence in Ghat.— The Prophet of the Touaricks. —
Visit from Aheer Touaricks.— The Governor's petty deal
ing.— The Shereef of Moorzuk.— Visit from Jabour.—
Beginning Soudanic Cottons.— Visits from Kandarka and
Zolea —Route from Ghat to Alexandria, and its distance.
—The Shereef of Medina.— Character and , infJ uence of
Khanouhen, heir-apparent of the Touarghee Throne of the
Azgher Touaricks, and his arrival in Ghat . • .34
CHAPTER XVIII.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Arrival of the Sultan Shafou, — Visit to His Highness. — Visit
to Hateetah ; his jealousy of the Sultan and other Sheikhs.
— Visit from the People of the Oasis of Berkat. — Said
sobbing and sulking. — A Night-School in The Desert. —
Use of Sand instead of Paper, Pens, and Ink. — Mode of
Touarghee succession to the Throne. — Women hereditary
possessors of Household Property. — Negresses are Dra
matic Performers. — Description of the Oasis of Ghat;
Houses, Architecture, Gardens, and Surrounding Country.
— Visit from the Heir- Apparent, Khanouhen. — Genial
softness of the Weather. — Specimen of Retail Trade. —
Case of administering Justice by the Sultan. — Early habit
of Touarghee begging. — The Bou-Habeeba, or Saharan
Singing Sparrows. — Alarm of Female Hucksters at The
Christian ........ 56

CHAPTER XIX.
ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN.
Violent Act of a Touarick on Slaves. — Visit to the Princess
Lilla Fatima. — Mode of grinding Corn. — Dilatoriness of
Commercial Transactions. — Grandees of Ghat Town. —
Khanouhen refuses his Present. — Rumours of the Conquest
of Algeria spread throughout Africa. — Small Breed of
Animals in Sahara. — Queer circumstance of unearthly
Voices. — The Cold becomes intense. — Arrival of Sheikh

CONTENTS. V
VA OE
Berka. — Hateetah in good Humour. — My Targhee friend,
Sidi Omer. — Visit from Kandarka; his Character.— Visit
to the aged Berka, and find the Giant. — Hateetah's
Political Gossips. — At a loss which Route to take, and
how to proceed. — Superstitions connected with the But
cher. — Zeal of an old Hag against The Christian. — Out of
Humour. — Reported departure of Caravans. — Jabour calls
with a Patient. — Visit Bel Kasem, and find Khanouhen.
¦ — Political Factions of Azgher Touaricks. — Giants in The
Desert. — Fanciful analogies of origin of Peoples. — Hier
archy of the Sheikhs. — Population, Arms, and Military
Forces of the Ghat Touaricks. — The Mahry or Maharee.
— Camels named from their Fleetness. — Touarghee Court
of Justice — Amphitheatrical style of Touaricks lounging.
— Amount of Customs-Dues paid by Ghat Traders. — Free
Trade in Sahara ........ 77
CHAPTER XX.
CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Commerce of Winter Mart at Ghat. — Visit to Hateetah, and
meet the Sultan. — Means of suppressing Saharan Slave
Trade by the Touaricks.' — Hateetah refuses my returning
with a Bengazi Caravan. — Bad Character of Arabs. — ¦
Receive a Visit from His Highness the Sultan ; and inte
resting Conversation with him. — Ghat Townsmen great
Bigots. — Unexpected Meeting with the Sultan. — My
Targhee Friend's opinion of War. — Mode of Baking Bread.
— Country of Touat. — The British Consul is perplexed
at his Master being a Lady. — Vulgar error of Christians
ill-treating Mussulmans in Europe. — People teach the
Slaves to call me Infidel. — Visit to Bel Kasem, and find
Khanouhen. — The free-thinking of this Prince. — Said's ap
prehensions of Touaricks. — Hateetah's opinion of stopping
Saharan Slave-Dealing. — Shafou leaves Ghat. — Discussion
of Politics with an assemblage of Chiefs. — Description of
the Touarick Tribes and Nations of The Great Desert. —
Description of Aheer and Aghadez. — Leo's Account of the
Targhee Desert — Daughters of the Governor Educated. —
Touaricks refuse aid from the Turks against the Shanbah.
¦ — A private Slave-Mart. — Ghat comparatively free from
Crime. — Visit from Berka . . . . . .115

VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXI.
CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. PAGE
Parallels between The Desert and The East. — The Divine
Warranty for carrying on the Slave Trade discussed. —
Visit from Aheer and Soudanese Merchants, and present
state of Soudan. — Form of the Cross on Touarick Arms. —
Boy taught to curse The Christian. — Medina Shereef 's
opinion on my giving Presents. — A Negress begs in the
name of Ouweek. — Visit to the Governor and Hateetah. —
Streams of Water and Corn-Fields in the Fabled Region of
Saharan Desolation. — Kandarka will recommend me to his
Sultan. —Parallel things between Africa and Asia. — Atkee
turns out a Scamp. — Visit from Berka. — Arabic is the
Language of Heaven. — Khanouhen ridicules Hateetah to
his face. — Hospitality of the Governor towards me, and
interesting Conversations with him. — Moorish reckoning of
Time clashes with mine. — Medina Shereef turns Beggar
like the rest. — Meet The Giant begging at Haj Ibra
him's. — Affecting Case of the cruelty of one Slave to
another, and compared to the Jews of Morocco. — Chorus
Singing of the Slaves. — Mode in which Ostriches are
Hunted. — Arrival of Senna and Ivory from Aheer. —
Christians are not Liars. — Farewell Visit from Jabour. —
Quick Route to Timbuctoo from Ghat. — Kandarka turns
Comedian, and satirizes the Touaricks of Ghat. — Mercantile
Transactions of the Governor. — Want of a strong Govern
ment in The Desert. — Assemblage of the Sheikhs, and
preparations for War .... . . 152
CHAPTER XXII.
PREPARATIONS POR DEPARTURE TO PEZZAN.
Account of Timbuctoo. — Streets of Ghat deserted by departure
of Caravans. — Packing of Senna. — Return of the Soudan
Caravan. — The Giant and his Gang sally out in search of
a Supper. — System of Irrigation. — The Saharan Hades. 
Continued departure of People to Soudan. — Hateetah serves
himself from Haj Ibrahim's Goods — Scold Ghadamsee
Merchants for introducing Religious Discussion. — Mode of

CONTENTS. VII
PAGE
Fashionable Dressing of the Hair, and Female Adornment.
— Saharan Beauties. — Costume of Touaricks. — Gardens of
the Governor. — Attempt a Journey to Wareerat Range. —
Hateetah and Haj Ibrahim become reconciled. — Departure
of Kandarka for Aheer. — Day of my departure from Ghat.
— Moral and Social Condition of the Saharan People com
pared to European Society. — Force of our Slave Caravan.
— First Night's Bivouac . . .189
CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.
Slaves very sensible to the Cold. — Well of Tasellam. — Saharan
Huntsman. — Atmospheric Phenomenon. — My Adventure at
tbe Palace of Demons. — Denham and Oudney's Account of
the Kesar Jenoun. — The Genii of Mussulmans. — Desert
Pandemonium compared with that of Milton. — Coasting
the Range of Wareerat or Taseely. — Soudan Species of
Sheep.— Soudan Parrot.— The Lethe) Tree— The Tholh,
or Gum-Arabic Tree. — Falling of Rain in The Desert. —
Oasis of Serdalas. — My Companions of Travel. — Weather
Hot and Sultry. — The Slaves bear up well.' — The Ship of
The Desert. — Extremes of Cold and Heat. — Mausoleum of
Sidi Bou Salab. — Serdalas, a neglected Oasis. — The Sybil
of The Sahara. — Death and Burial of two Female Slaves. —
Dirge on the Death of one of them, whipped at the point
of Death. — Power of the Sun in Sahara. — Desert Mosques 224
CHAPTER XXIV.
PROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.
Another Range of Black Mountains. — Habits of She-Camels
when having Foals. — Our Mahrys. — Intelligence of my
Nagah. — Geology of Route. — Arrive at the Boundaries of
Ghat and Fezzan. — The Moon-Stroke. — Sudden Tempest.
— Theological Controversy of The Shereef.— Wars and
Razzias between the Tibboos and Touaricks. — Forests of
Tholh Trees. — The Shereef's opinion of the Touaricks. —
Dine with The Shereef. — Saharan Travellers badly clothed
and fed. — Style of making Bazeen.— Mode of Encamping.
 Cold Day, felt by all the Caravan. — Well of Teenabunda.
 Arrival in The Wady of Fezzan. — Meeting of the two

Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE
Slave Caravans. — Tombs of Ancient Christians. — Routes
between Ghat and Fezzan. — Weariness of Saharan Travel.
—Oases and Palms of The Wady.— We meet a rude Sheikh,
demanding Customs-Dues. — Haj Ibrahim's opinion of the
Virgin Mary.— Black Jews in Central Africa.— My Affray
with the Egyptian. — Route to Tripoli, vid Shaty and
Mizdah. — Features and Colour of Fezzaneers. — My Journey
from The Wady to Mourzuk, on leaving the Slave-Cara
vans. — Tombs of former Inhabitants, and Legends about
them. — Bleak and Black Plateau. — The Targhee Scout. —
Have a Bilious Attack. — Desert Arcadians, and lone
Shepherdesses. — Oasis of Agath, and its want of Hospi
tality  .... 270
CHAPTER XXV.
RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.
Arrival at Mourzuk; and reported as a Christian Marabout
from Soudan — Meet Angelo, who conducts me to his
Master, the British Vice-Consul.' — Hearty Welcome from
Mr. Gagliuffi. — Detail of the Slave-Caravans of The Wady.
— Read the Newspapers ; Massacre of Jema-el-Ghazouat,
and the Annexation of Texas. — Visit to the Bashaw of
Mourzuk. — Visits to the Commandant of the Garrison, and
the Kady. — Poetical Scrap of European Antiquity. — Cele
bration of a Wedding. — Environs of Mourzuk. — Camera
Oscura. — Mourzuk Couriers. — The Kidnapped Circassian
Officer. — Old Yousef, the Renegade. — Dine with the Greek
Doctor on a Carnival Day. — An Albanian's Revenge. —
Greece and its Diplomatists. — Officials of Mourzuk. — An
Arab's estimate of God and Mahomet. — What is Truth?
— Improvements of the Commandant of the Troops. — How
English Politics taste in The Desert. — Visit to the Grave
of Mr. Ritchie .... ... 308
CHAPTER XXVI.
RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.
Mr. Gagliuffi's opinion of the Touaricks. — Amazonian White-
Washers. — Visit, and take leave of the Bashaw. — Various
Anecdotes related by His Highness. — Safe-conduct given to

CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
liberated Slaves in returning to their Country. — Character
of the Tibboos, and particularly Tibboo Women. — Descrip
tion of the Oases of Fezzan. — Leo's Account of these
Oases. — Recent History of the Government of Mourzuk. —
The Traitor Mukni. — Life and Character of Abd-el-Geleel.
— The Civil War in Tripoli, and Usurpation of its Govern
ment by the Turks. — The Tyrant Asker Ali. — Skirmish
of Hasan Belazee with the Town of Omm-Erraneb, and
the Oulad Suleiman. — Retreat of the Oulad Suleiman to
Bornou, and their Marauding Character. — My departure
from Mourzuk with the Slave-Caravan of Haj Essnousee.
— Establishment of British Consuls in The Great Desert
and Central Africa. — Force of the new Slave-Caravan . 336

CHAPTER XXVII.
FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.
Well of Esh-Shour. — Village of Dillaim. — Tying up to the
Camel a Female Slave. — Village of Gudwah. — Well of
Bel-Kashee Faree. — Melancholy Songs of the Slaves. —
Reflections on the Slave Trade ; Christian Republicans, and
the Scottish Free Kirk.— Well of Mukni.— El-Bab.— She
Camels with Foals. — How American Consuls justify
Slavery. — Arrival at Sebhah, and description of the
People. — Cruelty of a Moorish Boy to the young Female
Slaves. — Prohibited Food in matters of Religion. — The
Taste of a Locust. — Anecdates related by the Bashaw of
Mourzuk and Mr. Gagliuffi. — Divinations of the Tyrant
Asker Ali. — Continual delays. — Altercation with a Moor
about Religion. — The Songs of the Female Slaves inter
preted. — Version of Mr. Whittier, the American Poet. —
The Amor Pairim of the Negroes. — Primitive Style of
playing Draughts. — Games and Wine prohibited by the
Koran. — Sebhah, a City of the Dead. — Oases and extent of
the Sebhah District. — Fezzanee Palms bear Fruit without
Water. — Town of Timhanah. — Bad Odour of the Turks in
these Oases. — Essnousee, an atrocious Slave-Driver. — ¦
Stroke of a Scorpion ..... 363

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. PAGB
Continued delays.— Confidence of the Slaves in the Kafer
(myself).— Supply them with Water.— Negro Youths
exhibit Sham-Fighting.— Commissions recorded in Journal.
—Missionary Labour in Central Africa.— Beer Tagheetah.
—Palms of Ghurmeedah.— A Fezzanee's description of his
Country.— Reading on the Camel's Back.— Arrive at the
Village of Zeghen.— French Patent Soup. — Young Camels
broken in. — Omm El-Abeed. — Essnousee sermonizes on
"What is Good in this World."— Various Races of Fezzan.
— My extreme exhaustion. — The Flogging of the Mandara
Slave by Essnousee. — Illusions of Desert Sands. — Plateau
magnifying objects. — Horrid Waste. — How restored from
Fatigue. — Digging a Well by the order of the Turks. —
Slaves benighted. — Gibel Asoud. — Well of Ghotfah. —
Meet Reinforcements of Arab Cavalry. — Arrival at
Sockna ...... • 386
CHAPTER XXIX.
RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA.
Visit to the Turkish Kaed of Sockna. — The Concubine of His
Excellency. — Convoy of Provisions for the Troops of
Mourzuk. — The number of Palms destroyed at Sockna by
Abd-El-Geleel. — Population of Sockna, and position of the
Oasis. — Visit to the Sockna Maraboutess. — The Lady
honoured with " Stigmata,'' or " Holy Marks." — Propriety •
or impropriety of assuming the Moorish Character and the
Mahometan Religion whilst Travelling in Sahara. — .
Gardens of the Environs. — Find several old Charms in my
Lodgings. — Commerce and Merchants of Sockna. — Second
Visit to the Maraboutess ; her Character and Occupation.
— Visit the Kaed ; he compliments Christians.. — Panoramic
view from the Castle of Sockna. — Description of the
Castle. — Third Visit to the Maraboutess. — Few Children
in Sahara. — The little Turk or Kaed suffering under the
power of Epsom, and very unwell. — Arrival of another
Convoy. — Rain in North Africa. — Parallel Ideas between
The East and Africa .... _ 40S

CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER XXX.
PROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH.
PAGE
Well of Hammam. — Innocent game of the Negresses. — Baiting
at Noon. — Bird's-nests and Birds in Sahara. — Ghiblee or
the Simoum; its terrible effects on our Caravan. — Delu
sions of Desert, and Bewilderment of our People. — Disas
trous Fate of the Young Tuscan.— Snakes. — Small Capital
of some Slave-Merchants. — Arrival at Bonjem. — Visit the
Roman Ruins of Septimus Severus. — The newly created
Oasis. — Regulations to mitigate Saharan Slave-traffic. — My
Imbroglio with Essnousee.— Imbroglio of an Arab with
the Kaed of Bonjem. — Description of the Fort of Bonjem.
— The Disease of the Filaria Medinensis, and its Cure. —
My Journal confused and fragmentary. — Route from Bon
jem to Misratah. — Enter the regions of Rain and Open
Culture. — Bugha.lah on the Rock, where Abd-El-Geleeb
was assassinated. — Wells of Damoum and Namwah. —
Sudden Changes of Temperature in North Africa. — Well
of Saneeah. — Abd-El-Kader. — Stream of Touwarkah. —
• Estatic joy on arriving near the Sea. — How dimunitive all
things are become in comparison with the Vast Sahara —
Arrival at Misratah ....... 433

CHAPTER XXXI.
FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI.
The Establishment of Signor Regini. — Visit the Acting Kaed
of Misratah. — Shabby Conduct of Mehemet Pasha to
Regini. — Description of the Villages comprised withiu the
Jurisdiction of Misratah. — Population and Condition of
the Jews in Misratah and Tripoli. — Regini sighs for the
honour of hoisting the Union Jack. — Village of Zeiten.' —
Leghma; and the tapping of the Date-palm. — Corn Fields
and Grain Culture in North Africa. — Manipulation. — Sahel
orSalhin; its splendid Gardens. — The Eastern Terminus
groups of Mount Atlas. — Ruins of Lebida; and other an
cient Ruins. — Monosyllabic Old Moor. — Meet the Bey of
Misratah. — Wad Seid, and Plain of El-Jumr. — The Sand
storm. — Our Slaves' first sight of the Sea. — Said left be-

X11 CONTENTS. PAGE
hind.' — Essnousee foiled in attempting to beat one of his
Slaves. — Trait of the Tender Passion in our Troop of Slaves.
— Result of my Observations on the Saharan Slave Traffic.
— Gardens of Tajourah. — The Gardens of the Masheeah.
— Distance, Time, and Expenses of ray Tour. — Disposal of
Said and the Camel ....... 460

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME II.
Plate.
Sand-Storm facing Title-page.
Wood-Cuts.
Style of Architecture 7J
Stones for Grinding Corn 81
Ranges of reclining Touaricks X08
City of Ghat jgg
Palace of the Governor of Ghat - igg
Touarick Costumes 207
Idem 20g
The Palace of Demons 04Q
Desert Mosques „„„
Targhee Scout „„„
Architectural Ornament 445

TRAVELS

IN"

THE GREAT DESERT.

CHAPTER XVI.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.

Arrival at Ghat, and reception by its Inhabitants. — The Cold of
The Sahara. — Haj Ahmed, the Governor, and Sheikh Jabour. —
Distribute Presents to the Governor and Jabour. — Visit the
Sheikh Hateetah, styled the British Consul of Ghat. — Make the
acquaintance of the Tripoline Merchant Haj Ibrahim. — The
GRat Rabble. — Ouweek arrives in Ghat. — A Visit from Touarick
Women. — Arabs begging from me by force. — Arrival of Kan
darka from Aheer. — Bel Kasem's account of the Slave Trade. —
Visit to Haj Ahmed, the Governor ; his Character and Esta
blishment described. — Bel Kasem's Sick Slave. — All classes of
People attempt to convert me to Mohammedanism. — Bad effect
of an European Tourist assuming tbe Character of a Mahome
tan. — Touarghee mode of Saluting. — Miserable condition of
Slaves on arriving from Soudan. — Soudanese Merchants friendly
to me. — Visit from the Governor. — Report in The Desert of Chris-
tians Worshipping Idols. — Make the Acquaintance of a young
Touarghee. — Slave Trading and Kidnapping Slaves up The
Niger. — Economical Bill of Expenses of Journey from Ghat to
Soudan.
15th. — Rose two hours before daybreak in order to
arrive early at Ghat in the morning. About ten a.m.,
the palms of Ghat were visible through the scattered
blocks of rock in the valley, for the plain became now
vol. ii. B

THE GREAT DESERT.

contracted and assumed the shape of a deep broad
valley, on the one side a low range of sand-hills, and on
the other the high rocky chain of Wareerat. But the
first sight of the oasis, after nineteen weary days of
Desert, affected me with only disagreeable sensations.
The affair of Ouweek, though pretty well got over, had
shaken my confidence in the Touaricks. Indeed, the
painful forebodings of the last forty hours had seriously
deranged my plans, and made me think of returning,
availing myself the most of my unsuccessful tour. This
suffering of thought day after day is intense and worries
me, and will soon make me an old man, if not in years.
It was the sudden shock of the affair just after receiving
the messenger of peace from Ghat. I saw at once that
there was a great deal of insubordination in the lesser
chieftains, which made travelling in this country very
insecure. I remembered the remark of my taleb, " All
the Touaricks are the Divan, and each has his own
opinion, and carries it out in spite of the Sultan."
We were now met by the friends of the Ghadamsee
merchants, but with the exception of Essnousee and two
or three others, I received few salutes of welcome ; and
when we got up to the gates of the city (at noon), not
a single person of our caravan offered me the least
assistance, either in interpreting or otherwise. I felt
myself in a most deplorable predicament, but I reflected
that all men must each one look after his own business,
so our people were now each one occupied with his own
affairs. I felt much the want of a good Moorish or Arab
servant. Said was of no use whatever in this case
Strangers and loungers crowded and clamoured round
me, anxious to look at the face of " The Christian " It

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 3
was covered with my travelling handkerchief, and when
I untied my face to gratify their curiosity, they burst out
with the rude and wild expression of surprise, " Whooh!
Whooh! Whey!" Amongst this mob I at once distin
guished a number of the Aheer and Soudan merchants.
These showed the greatest curiosity, but my outer dress
being entirely Moorish, there was little novelty in my
appearance, nay, scarcely any to point me out from the
rest of the caravan. Several of the Ghat people then
asked me what I wanted. I told them, the Governor of
Ghat. I was not understood. At last came up to me
a young Tripoline Moor of the name of Mustapha, who
volunteered his services as Touarghee and Arabic inter
preter, but, of course, our conversation was always in
Arabic. Amidst a cluster of Touaricks and Ghat towns
men, the Governor was pointed out. Several Sheikhs
were present, but it appears they gave precedence to the
Governor's son from a feeling of shamefacedness. Haj
Ahmed's son is a very nice polite young gentleman, as
smart as a Parisian dandy. After a little delay he con
ducted us to a house, in which some of his father's slaves
were living. It was a dark dreadful dilapidated hovel.
The young gentleman most earnestly apologized, pro
testing, " The town is full of people, merchants, and
strangers. We have nothing better left in the town.
Perhaps you will come and live in our house out of the
town." We looked out our baggage, which had been
conveyed for us by Arabs of our caravan, and were asto
nished to find it scattered about outside the city gates,
the caravan people having thrown it down there. How
ever, nothing was lost, and this at once impressed me
with the remarkable honesty of the Ghatee people. I
b 2

4 THE GREAT DESERT.
took up my quarters in a small room built on the ter
race, without window or door, but very airy. A roof ot
mud and straw was now a luxurious and splendid man
sion to me. At least a dozen slaves were occupied in
carrying my baggage from outside the gates to my
domicile, each carrying some trifle. No camels or beast
of burden are allowed to enter the city gates, all goods
and merchandize are carried by slaves in and out. Like
the porters at the different traveller-stations in Europe,
each of these slaves seized hold of the merest trifle of
baggage, a stick or a bit of cord, in order to make an
exorbitant demand of the value of a shilling. The
Desert furnishes a parallel for every circumstance of
civilized life.
The last night or two I had found it very cold, and
the wind too high for tents. I may observe here, con
veniently, the cold was so great in this portion of Sahara,
that I never could undress myself for dread of the cold.
After loosening my neckcloth and shoes, I lay down in
the dress which I wore during the day. My bed was a
simple mattress laid over a piece of matting, which latter
was spread on the hard earth or sands of The Desert, as
it might be, with a small sofa cushion for a pillow.
After I had laid down the mattress, I then covered my
self up with a large woollen barracan or blanket, very
thick and heavy, and over this was also drawn a dark-
blue European cloak. The cloth distinguished my bed
from those of the merchants, and the nagah always
knew the encampment by the sight of this Christian
garment. When I wore it in the day she was] imme
diately sensible of the presence of her master. I did
not pitch a tent, for we could not, but formed a sort of

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 5
head-place of the two panniers of the camel, over which
we arranged camel's gear, forming a small top. Under
this I placed or poked my head, so that, at night, if
turning over my face, I found a little shelter from the
naked cold heavens. In this way I lay enveloped in a
mass of clothing. I usually waked a couple of hours
before daybreak with the intensity of the cold. Said
slept closely by me on a lion's skin, and rolled himself
up in the slight canvass of the tent. Like myself he
never undressed himself at night. When he wished to
confer a favour upon any of his negro countrymen, or
the poor slaves, he would take them and roll them up
with him in this canvass. He would have sometimes
half a dozen at once with him, the confined air of their
united breathings keeping them mutually warm. The
poor Arab camel-drivers had nothing but their barracans
which they wore in the day to cover themselves up at
night, whilst the bare earth was their couch of down,
and a heap of stones their luxurious pillow. All these
Arabs were wandering wayfaring Jacobs of The Desert.
El-Ai'shi says, speaking of the bleak wind of The Desert,
" The north wind blows in these places with an intensity
equalling the cold of hell; language fails me to express
this rigorous temperature." The Mohammedans believe
that the extremes of heat and cold meet in hell. Some
have thought there is an allusion to this in the words,
" Weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth," (the teeth
chattering from cold.) Milton has also enumerated cold
as one of the torments of the lost. The tormented
spirits passed —
" O'er many a frozen, many a fiery, Alp."

b THE GREAT DESERT.
I had not been many minutes in my new apartment
before the Governor himself came in. I had been address
ing the young* Ghatee as the Governor himself, like Gold
smith harangued a duke's footman for the duke himself.
Haj Ahmed, his father, welcomed me with every demon
stration of hospitality. He sat chatting with me until
the arrival of the Sheikh Jabour, who also welcomed me
in the most friendly manner. This was the Sheikh who
had dispatched his slave to the well of Tadoghseen to
meet me. Two or three other Touaricks of distinction
came in with my friend Essnousee. They then questioned
me upon the conduct of Ouweek, the news of which had
now spread over all the town, and thanking Jabour for
sending his slave, he replied, smiling, " Ouweek was
joking with you." And then all joined in a laugh about
Ouweek's affair. Jabour, ashamed of the business, took
this method of easing my mind. The Governor now
began to ask me about news and politics, and how
Muley Abd Errahman was ["getting on with the French.
The burning of the French steamer on the coast of
Morocco after she grounded, had been transformed by
The Desert reports into a victory over the French, in
which the French had lost 70,000 men and several
ships. The Governor had also heard the Maroquine war
had recommenced. I excused my ignorance by saying,
I had been a long time in Ghadames, and 'had heard
nothing. Odd enough, the Governor asked me, " Which
was the oldest dynasty in Europe V I told him the
Bourbons of France. The Sheikh Jabour here inter
posed, that his family was more than three thousand
years old ! The pride of an hereditary noblesse is deeply

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 7
rooted in these Touarghee chiefs. The love of ancestral
distinction is co-extensive with the human race. I have
given but the substance of our conversations. I give
some of it in detail : — =•
Interrogation, by the Governor.
His Excellency. — "What did Ouweek to youl"
" He was saucy to me."
His Excellency. — " Have you seen lately Muley Abd
Errahman (Emperor of Morocco) V
"No."
His Excellency. — " He has conquered the French, de
stroyed their ships. They have lost 70,000 men. If
you had told Muley Abd Errahman you had been coming
here, he would have sent me a letter by you."
" I have no doubt of it."
His Excellency. — " How is your Sultan V
" Very well, thank you V
His Excellency. — "When did you last see Sidi Abd-
el-Kader?" " Not very lately."
His Excellency. — " He is a prophet." (To which I
said, Amen.) Interrogatory, by Sheikh Jabour.
The Sheikh.—" What did Ouweek to you V
" He was very rude."
The Sheikh. — " Ouweek was playing with you, trying
to frighten you because you are a stranger. He's a fool
himself." " Oh, it's no matter now."

o THE GREAT DESERT.
The Sheikh.— "How's your Sultan? Does he doubt
we shall utterly destroy the Shanbah."
" Oh, not the least."
The Sheikh (in reply to the Governor).— "My fathers
were princes before all the Christian kings, thousands of
years ago."
" I dare say they were."
My visitors now took leave of me, Jabour shaking
hands with me, and saying, Md-tahdfsh, "don't fear."
Afterwards had a great many curious visitors of the
lower classes, all raving mad to see the Roumee (" Chris
tian"). And amongst the rest, the son of Ouweek ! who
is a young harmless fellow, and said his father would
never hurt a great Christian like me. He begged hard
for a piece of sugar, which I gave him. He asked me if
his father was coming to Ghat. For supper I received
a splendid dish of meat and sopped bread, but very
highly seasoned with pepper and cloves. It is the Sou
dan pepper, a small quantity of which possesses the most
violent, nay virulent strength.
16th. — After taking a walk in the morning, I returned
the visit of the Governor. He received me very politely,
and presented me with a lion's skin, brought from Sou
dan. His Excellency shewed me his certificate of cha
racter and rank, certified by a huge seal of the Emperor
of Morocco. He pointed out with conscious pride the
name of Marabout, with which sacred title the Emperor
had dubbed him. Muley Abd Errahman is an immense
favourite here amongst the Moorish townsmen. They
call him their Sultan. The Turks they fear and detest.
They expect them one day at Ghat. In the afternoon
I sent the Governor, according to the advice of Musta-

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 9
pha, two loaves of sugar (French), a pound of cloves,
and a pound of sunbul*. Cloves— grunfel, \AJ^>— are
greatly esteemed, especially by the women, who season
their cakes, cuskasous, and made-dishes with them.
The sunbul (leaves) is ma-de into a decoction, or wash,
and is used by fashionable ladies in Sahara as eau de
Cologne in Europe.
Afterwards I paid a visit to Sheikh Jabour. The
Sheikh has a house within the town, which very few of
the Sheikhs have. Jabour received me friendly. I could
not see the features of the Sheikh very well, on account
of his litham. Jabour, however, is a perfect aristocrat
in his way, with a very delicate hand. He is tall and
well-made, and his simple and elegant manners denote
at once " The Marabout Sheikh of the Touaricks," of the
most ancient and renowned of Touarghee families. I
took the Sheikh a present of a loaf of sugar, three
pounds of cloves and sunbul, and a shasheeah, or fez.
Jabour received them very graciously, and repeated his
ma-tahafsh, "don't fear," several times, promising me,
at the same time, to use his influence with his friends to
get me safely escorted to Aheer and Soudan. The
Sheikh's followers and other distinguished Touaricks re
peat the same, but the Governor I find more cautious
in his speech. On my return home, the Sheikh sent to
know if the handkerchief, in which the present was
wrapped, were also a present, and whether the bearer of
the present had purloined it, for he had taken it away
* Sunbul — }.xl~> — (literally "stalks"). According to French
Oriental botanists, it is " Nard, spina celtica." An immense quan
tity of this fashionable plant is brought into The Desert. No pre
sent is made to a man of family without sunbul.

10 THE GREAT DESERT.
with him. I immediately sent the Sheikh back the
handkerchief, informing the Sheikh the bearer was not
told to leave it. All Saharan people are immoderately
fond of a handkerchief. I recommend travellers in
Sahara to supply themselves with a good stock of very
cheap coloured cotton handkerchiefs. My house is
thronged all day long with visitors. I am obliged to
exhibit myself to the people like the Fat Boy, or the
American Giant. It is Richardson's Show at Ghat in
stead of Greenwich. The rest of the ghafalah, which we
left behind, arrived to-day. My friend, El-Besher, to
my regret, had turned suddenly back and gone to
Touat, where his brother had arrived from Timbuctoo.
It is reported that a quarrel had taken place about his
brother amongst the Timbuctoo caravan, in which affair
ten people had been killed. So all Saharan caravans do
not travel in such harmony as we did. The Ghadamsee
caravans are certainly the most pacific. But the Tim
buctoo people have everywhere a bad character.
11th. — In the morning went to see the Consul of the
Europeans, as the Moors call him. This is the Sheikh
Hateetah, of whom very honourable mention is made by
the Denham and Clapperton party. Hateetah himself
assumes the distinction of " Friend," or Consul of the Eng
lish. I found him stretched on a pallet upon the ground
floor, extremely unwell with fever, and surrounded by
his friends. He has just come from the country districts.
He asked me, "Is the Consul well? Are his daughters
well? Is the King of England well?" Hateetah had
some ydars ago visited the Consul and his family at Tri
poli, under . British protection, for Touaricks dare not
approach Tripoli. He has in his possession, after a

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 11
dozen years, a fine scarlet burnouse and coat, braided
with gold lace, and also a gun, which were presented to
him by Colonel Warrington, on the part of our Govern
ment, for his services to our Bornou expedition. The
Sheikh told me he had besides a written certificate
from the Consul, but it was in the country. I am the
first person whom he has had an opportunity of serving
since his return from Tripoli, where he formally engaged,
on the part of the Touaricks, to give British subjects all
necessary protection in the Ghat districts. For this
reason he is styled, " The friend of the English." All
strangers here are placed under the care of one Sheikh
or another, to whom they make presents, but not to the
rest. Hateetah resides in the suburbs.
During the past night was taken dreadfully ill, in the
stomach, by eating the high-seasoned dishes of the
Governor. After drinking olive-oil and vomiting, found
myself much better. People say oil is the best remedy
in such cases. The Governor was troubled at my illness,
and sent to ask whether he should send me some senna
tea. Wrote to-day to Mr. Alsager and Colonel Warring
ton. The letters were to have been dispatched direct to
Tripoli, but the Touaricks would neither allow one
of their own people nor an Arab courier to go, giving as
the reason that Shafou, the Sultan, was not arrived-
Touaricks have a horror of Turks, and cannot bear to
have communication with them, and do everything in
their power to prevent others from communicating with
Tripoli. Not acquainted with Mediterranean politics,
they imagine that, because the Turks have retaken pos
session of Ghadames and Fezzan, so long quasi-inde
pendent of Tripoli, they must necessarily invade the

12 THE GREAT DESERT.
Touarick territory, and seize upon their wee town of
Ghat, but to them the metropolis of The Sahara. This
evening Jabour hinted, in Hibernian style, to one of the
slaves waiting upon me, that his present of sugar was
rather small. I forthwith sent him two loaves more,
which rejoiced him so much that he exclaimed, " Thank
the Christian by G — d. Tell him he has nothing to fear
in Ghat, and he shall go safe to Soudan." Felt better
to-night. The Governor sent his last dish this evening.
A stranger of distinction is supplied with food for three
days. I have had my share of honour and hospitality,
and am glad of it. 1 shall now be cautious what I
eat. But I find everything is exceedingly dear, the
number of strangers, foreign merchants, and slaves,
is so unusually great as quickly to devour all the food .
brought here.
Yesterday I made the acquaintance of Haj Ibrahim, a
Moorish merchant resident in Tripoli, but a native of
Jerbah. When in Tripoli he acts as Consul for the Gha-
damsee merchants ; his brother is now in charge. Mus-
tapha came with him direct from Tripoli, not passing
through Mourzuk, but via the oases of Fezzan to the
west. So an European agent established at Mourzuk,
cannot well collect a statistical account of trade, on
account of few Ghat caravans travelling the Mourzuk
route. Haj Ibrahim promises to be useful to me, and
has already sent a letter for me to Ghadames. This
merchant has brought the largest amount of goods to
the Souk, about forty camels. The whole of the Soudan
ghafalah has not yet • arrived from Aheer. It comes in
by small detached parties. As there is nothing to fear
on the road, people prefer travelling in small companies

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 13
which facilitates their march, not being detained at the
wells waiting for the running of the water.
I have cut in a certain way my old friends of the
Ghadamsee ghafalah. This has done them good, for
they now begin to return to me, and are polite. Before
they were all so frightened at the Touaricks, that I knew
if I did not cut them, they would cut me. Now, when
seeing the Touaricks are friendly, they are also friendly ;
— such is the world of Sahara, as well as the world of
Paris or London. When a man has few friends he gets
less, when many he gets more. On the principle, I sup
pose, that money gets money, and friendship friendship.
The Moors of the coast, of whom there are a few here,
exhibit more courage, and a bolder front to the Toua
ricks. The worst of this place is, The Rabble. It is
the veritable Caboul, or Canton Rabble. Here's my
"great difficulty." They run after me, and even hoot
me in the streets. Were it not for this rabble, I could
walk about with the greatest freedom and safety, and
alone. 18th. — Went to see Haj Ibrahim. Sent the letter to
Mr. Alsager vid Ghadames, the only letter I wrote from
Ghat during the fifty days of my residence here. In my
absence a loaf of sugar was stolen out of my apartment-
Suspicion falls upon a Fezzanee, whom I have employed,
and to whom I gave this very morning a quarter of a
dollar. These small loaves of French beet-root sugar
sell for two-thirds of a dollar in Ghat. Ouweek arrived
to-day from his district, after stopping for the rest of the
caravan to get what he could in the way of begging by
force. This is the cunning of the old fox bandit. He
knows he can beg more effectually from the merchant

14 THE GREAT DESERT.
and trader in the open desert, than at Ghat, where people
may refuse, and do refuse to satisfy his importunities. I
have done so with the rest. He now pretends he was
only playing with me, and that he would have let me
pass through his district though I had given him nothing.
Can we believe him ? Jabour says in turn : — " I will
make Ouweek restore the goods which he has extorted
by violence from the Christian." There is no doubt
Shafou will reprimand the bandit when he arrives. But
I do not ask or expect the restoration of such a few
trifling things. In this country, as the Governor says,
" full of Sheiks," where authority is so divided, and the
Sultan's power is so feeble, we must expect this sort of
freebooting extortion. Such were the good and fine old
days of chivalry in France and England, so much
regretted by certain morbid romancers, Sir Walter Scott
to boot, when a baron made a foray upon a neighbouring
baron's people, and shut himself up with the booty in his
castle, defying equally his plundered neighbour and his
sovereign. But if in the comparison there is any decli
nation of the balance, it is in favour of the Touaricks,
for these Sheikhs, governing their respective districts with
a gwsz'-independent authority, are now living in profound
peace and harmony with one another.
Had a visit from some score of Touarick women, of all
complexions, tempers, and ages. After staring at me
for some time with amazed curiosity and silence, they
became restless. Not knowing what to do with them, I
took out a loaf of white sugar, cut it into pieces, and
then distributed it amongst them. The scene now sud
denly changed, joy beamed in every eye, and every one
let her tongue run most volubly. They asked me

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 15
" Whether I was married — whether the Christian women
were pretty — whether prettier than they — and whether,
if not married, I should have any objection to marry one
of them ?" To all which questions I answered in due
categorical form : — " I was not married — the Christian
women were pretty, but they, the Touarick women, were
prettier than Christian women — and, lastly, I should see
whether I would marry one of them when I came from
Soudan." These answers were perfectly satisfactory.
But then came a puzzler. They asked me, " Which was
the prettiest amongst them?" I looked at one, and
then at another, with great seriousness, assuming very
ungallant airs, (the women the meanwhile giggling and
coquetting, and some throwing back their barracans,
shawls I may call them, farther from their shoulders,
baring their bosoms in true ball-room style,) and, at last,
falling back, and shutting my eyes, placing my left hand
to my forehead, as if in profound reflection, I exclaimed
languidly, and with a forced sigh, " Ah, I can't tell, you
are all so pretty!" This created an explosion of mirth,
some of the more knowing ones intimating by their
looks, " It's lucky for you that you have got out of the
scrape." But an old lady, close by me, was very angry
with me : — " You fool, Christian, take one of the young
ones; here's my daughter." It is necessary to explain,
that the woman of the Touaricks is not the woman of
the Moors and Mussulmans generally. She has here
great liberty, walks about unveiled, and takes an active
part in all affairs and transactions of life. Dr. Oudney
justly remarks, " The liveliness of the women, their free-
ness with the men, and the marked attention the latter
paid them, formed a striking contrast with other Moham-

16 THE GREAT DESERT.
medan States." Batouta mentions a Berber tribe of
Western Sahara, as having similar manners. He says : ¦
" This people has very singular manners. So the men
are not at all jealous of their women. The women
are not at all embarrassed in the presence of the men ;
and though they, the women, are very assiduous at their
prayers, they appear always uncovered." He adds, that
certain women, of free manners, are shared amongst the
people without exciting the feelings of jealousy amongst
the men. It is the same with the Touaricks, but it is
the absence of this Mussulman, or oriental jealousy, of
husbands of their wives, which distinguishes the Touaricks
from other Mahometans of North Africa, and connects
the social condition of the Touaricks more with Euro
pean society. On departing, I gave the Touarick ladies
some pins, and they, not knowing how to use them, (for
pins are never imported into The Desert, though needles
in thousands,) I taught them a good practical lesson by
pinning two of them together by their petticoats, which
liberty, on my part, I need not tell the reader, increased
the mirth of this merry meeting of Touarghee ladies pro
digiously. I certainly felt glad that we could travel in a
country and laugh and chat with, and look at the women
without exciting the intolerable jealousy of the men. I
think there is not a more dastardly being than a jealous
husband. Amongst the Moors a traveller does not know
whether he can venture to speak to a man's wife or not,
or whether he can make her the most trifling present in
return for the supper which she may cook.
Afterwards had a very different visit of four Arabs
who came with the evident intention of getting something
out of me by main force. I resisted to the last, and to

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 17
their astonishment. I told them, all my presents were
now for the Touaricks, and if they did not leave the
house I would get them bastinadoed on their return to
The Mountains. The worst class of people which I have
met with, since I left Tripoli, are some of these Arabs,
who are the most dogged brazen-faced beggars and
spongers, banditti in the open day. Yesterday arrived
the powerful Aheer camel-driver and conducteur Kan
darka Bou Ahmed, the Kylouwee, whose arrival produced
a sensation. Some call him a Sheikh. He usually con
ducts the Ghadamsee merchants between this and Aheer,
and as far as" Kanou. It is an established custom or
law, in The Desert, that the people of each district or
country shall enjoy the privilege of conducting the
caravans. The Touaricks of Ghat conduct the mer
chants from Ghadames to Ghat, and the Touaricks of
Aheer the merchants from Ghat to Aheer, and so of the
rest of the route, as far as Kanou, the final destination of
the Soudan caravan.
My Ghadamsee friend Bel Kasem came up to me to
day, and whispered in my ear the question, " If slaves
would be allowed to be sold now in the market of
Tripoli ?" I answered frankly in the affirmative, but
added, "I did not think it would last much longer."
All the merchants now look upon me as an anti-slavery
agent. The affair of Silva and Levi, if it prejudice the
people against me on one side, gives me some consequence
on the other, on account of the steps which the British
Consul took against those merchants, or caused them to
take. I went to see Bel Kasem in the evening, who is
but a mere trader. He gave me this account of his
slave-dealing : — " I have purchased five slaves at forty
VOL. II. c

THE GREAT DESERT.

mahboubs each. At Tripoli I shall sell them at sixty.
The Pasha takes ten duty, and I have only ten for profit
and the expenses, of conveying the slaves from Ghat to
Tripoli, feeding them as well here as there. What, where
is my profit?" I echoed, "Where?" This is a fair
specimen of the market. He complains of the dearness
of the slaves, although an unusual number, more than a
thousand, have been brought to the Souk or Mart. Haj
Ibrahim and some other large purchasers have greatly
and unexpectedly increased the demand. He says Haj
Ibrahim purchases large quantities of goods on credit, or
for bills of six and nine months from European mer
chants in Tripoli. These he exchanges against slaves in
Ghat, and then returns and sells his slaves, and pays the
bills as they come due. In this way, it will be seen,
the Desert slave-traffic is carried on upon the shoulders
of European merchants. Haj Ibrahim considers his
profits at twenty per cent. The people say he gets
more. My friend, the Arab of Derge, called late, to
borrow five dollars of me. He said, " I have purchased
a slave for twenty-five dollars ; at present I have only
twenty. You and I, Yakob, have been always friends.
Lend me five dollars and I will pay you in a few days.
The slave is a little old but cheap, he is to work in the
gardens at Ghadames." I then explained to him the
law of England on slavery, which greatly surprised
him. The next day this Derge Arab brought in ano
ther fellow to ask me to lend him money to buy a slave,
just to see whether I should make the same reply to him
also. 19th. — Rose early, and better in health. I begin to
feel at home in Ghat, amidst the redoubtable Touaricks.

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 19
I find them neither monsters nor men-eaters*. Never
theless, all the swaggering Arabs and Arab camel-drivers
are here very quiet and civil amongst their masters, the
Touaricks. I frequently bully them now about their
past boasting and present cowardice. Two of the Arabs
who had attempted to extort a present from me I met at
Haj Ibrahim's house. I lectured them roundly, telling
them I would report them to the Pasha, for they were
greater banditti than the Touaricks. This had a salutary
effect. I was not troubled afterwards with these brazen
faced begging Arabs.
This morning paid another visit to Haj Ahmed, the
Governor. Found him very friendly. He talked politics.
I explained to him the circumstances of the war between
France and Morocco, suppressing the most disagreeable
parts for a Mahometan. In the course of conversation I
was surprised to hear from Haj Ahmed, " Now, since
these twelve years, Tripoli belongs to the English." I
used vainly all my eloquence in Arabic to convince him
of this error, which has been propagated since the re
moval of Asker Ali from the Pashalic of Tripoli at the
instance of the British Consul. I then spoke to his
Excellency of the necessity of sending some trifling pre
sents to the Queen of England, as a sign of friendship,
begging him to speak to Shafou. He replied, " The
* Nor are they Anthropoklephts, as a late Yankee Consul, in his
" Notes on North Africa," &c, calls them. Before Mr. Hodgson
stigmatizes the Touaricks as men-stealers, he should see that his
own States are pure. The reader will agree with me, after hearing
further of the Touaricks, that these free sons of The Sahara have
every right to say to Mr. Hodgson, and all American Consuls —
" Physician, heal thyself : do not charge us with men-stealing when
you buy and sell and rob human beings of their liberty."
C 2

20 THE GREAT DESERT.
Touaricks have nothing but camels." The Governor has
a tremendous family. First of all, he has seven wives
and concubines, then nine sons and six daughters. One
of his female slaves repeated to me all their names, a
complete muster-roll. When I visited the Governor
again, I congratulated him upon having so large a family.
He observed smiling, with great self-complacency, " Why,
Yakob, do you call this a large family ? What is a large
family with you ?" I told him eight and even six children
was a large family. At this he affected great surprise,
for he had heard that generally European females have
three or four children at a birth. Haj Ahmed is a man
of about fifty, rather good-looking, stout and hard-work
ing, but inclining to corpulency, very unusual in The
Desert. He is not very dark, and is of Arab extraction,
and boasts that his family came from Mecca or Medina.
He pretends that his ancestors were amongst the warriors
who besieged Constantinople, previous to its capture by
the Turks. He is a native of Touat, but has been
settled here twenty years, where he has built himself a
palace and planted large gardens. He is a shrewd and
politic man, and has, in a certain degree, those jealous
feelings of Christians which are peculiar to the Moor.
He dresses partly in the Moorish and partly in the
Touarick style, indeed, like all the Moors of Ghat, who
are called Ghateen. He is, perhaps, not very learned,
but is assisted by his nephew, a young Shereef of great
learning and amiable manners. I asked some of the
Ghatee people, who was their Sultan ? They replied,
"Haj Ahmed; Shafou is not our Sultan." The Touaricks,
however, have absolute control over all affairs, and Haj
Ahmed stands in the same relation to Shafou, being

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 21
governor of the town, as the Sheikh El-Mokhtar, who is
governor of Timbuctoo , under the Sultan of Jinnee. But,
Haj Ahmed, himself, disclaims all temporal authority, he
repeatedly says in our conversation, " I am not Sheikh,
or Kaed, I'm only Marabout. All the people here are
equal. When you write to the Consul, tell him I'm only
Marabout." The fact is, there are so many Sheikhs here
that it is no honour to be a Sheikh. The honour is too
cheap to be valued, and is as much repudiated as a
French Cross of the Legion of Honour. Haj Ahmed
repudiates being a Sheikh most stoutly. Notwithstand
ing this repudiation, the Marabout is obliged to decide
upon the affairs of the city, even when Shafou is in
town. The Marabout pretends he does not receive pre
sents like the Sheikhs, but he always received what I
offered him, and which was more than what I gave to some
of the Sheikhs. His palace stands west, two-thirds of a
mile from the city walls. Here he reigns supreme, priest
and king, as Melchisedech of patriarchal times, surrounded
with his numerous family of wives and concubines, and
about fifty male and female slaves. Some of the slaves
live in huts near his palace, or in the gardens. The
Marabout is the largest landed proprietor of Ghat, but
he also trades a good deal, and is now sending some of
his children to Soudan to trade in slaves.
Yesterday evening Mohammed Kafah sent me a bowl
of sopped bread, fat, and gravy, garnished with two or
three little pieces of meat. This is the first act and
specimen of hospitality on the part of the townsmen.
Kafah is a considerable merchant, and one of the three
or four grandees of the place. Bel Kasem called out to
me to-day, for he lives next door, "Yakob! Yakob!

22 THE GREAT DESERT.
Aye ! for God's sake, one of my slaves is ill, bring me
some medicine to purge him, quick, quick, he'll die." I
had nothing to give the poor creature but a worm-powder,
ordering half the quantity, all my medicines being dis
tributed, except those for the eyes. Undoubtedly many
of the slaves must die before they arrive in Tripoli.
They are mostly fed on dates, the profit of the commerce
is so small as not to allow wholesome food being given
them. The slaves are brought from countries teeming
with plenty of meat, grain, and vegetables, whilst they
are fed with herbage and dates en route from Aheer to
Ghat. What wonder then they die ?
Every body, as was the case at Ghadames, high and
low, rich and poor, young and old, wishes to convert me
into a good Mussulman, being mortified that so quiet a
Christian should be an infidel. An old Sheikh paid me
a visit to-day, and began, "Now, Christian, that you
have come into this country, I hope you will find every
thing better than in your own country, and become a
Mussulman, one loved of God. Come to my house,
leave your infidel father and mother. I have two daugh
ters. I will give you both for wives, and seven camels
besides. This will make you a Sheikh amongst us.
You can also be a Marabout, and spend your life in
prayer." I excused myself, by saying, " I had engage
ments in my country. My Sultan would brand me with
disgrace, and I should be fetched out of this country by
the Turks, who were always the friends of the English."
The Sheikh sighed, raised up his aged body, and de
parted, mumbling something, a blessing or a curse, upon
my head. A younger son of Haj Ahmed came in and
addressed me, " Why not say, ' There is one God, and

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 23
' Mahomet is the prophet of God?'" I told him a Chris
tian was prohibited from making such a confession. On
paying a visit to Mohammed Kafah, who sent me the
supper, I found his house full of slaves and Soudan
goods, and he himself very busy in the midst of them.
He received me very friendly, and, after a little, said,
" It would be better for you if you turned Mussulman.
Do you not wish to go to Paradise? A slave of ours is
better than you, and your estate." To turn the conver
sation, I observed (which I knew would excite his mer
cantile lust, despite his orthodox zeal), " I hear you are
vastly rich, the richest merchant in Ghat." " Ah !" he
replied, distending into consequence, "but the Chris
tians have all the money." I rejoined, " If there were a
better Government in Tripoli, the Mussulmans would
have more money." Asking about the arrival of Shafou,
he observed, "Haj Ahmed is om' Sultan. I'm not a
Touarick. God help if I were a Touarick." He then
took me by the hands, and led me to the women's apart
ments to show me to his wife and daughters. The good
wife, after handling my hands, which were a little whiter
and cleaner than what are generally seen in The Desert,
for to have hands with a layer of dh't upon them of
several months' collecting, is an ordinary circumstance, —
exclaimed, "Dear-a-me, dear-a-me, how wonderful, and
this Christian doesn't know God !" Her husband shook
his head negatively. The court-yard of his house was
soon filled and crammed with people, who rushed in from
the streets, and the friendly Ghatee was obliged to send
me home quick, lest I should be smothered by a mob of
people. The affair of Silva and Levi had reached him,
and the report will soon get to Soudan and Timbuctoo,

24 THE GREAT DESERT.
for the merchants carry everything with them which inte
rests their commerce, making additions as they go along.
Here, as at Mogador, it was reported that I was commis
sioned by the Sultan of England to buy up and liberate
all the slaves. On returning home, I had another posse
of visitors, and some of Haj Ahmed's sons, who came
with the fixed determination to convert me. One said,
on my admiring his Soudan coloured frock, " If you will
become a Mussulman, I will give you one." I now felt
myself obliged to rebut some of this impertinence, and
answered, " If you would give me all the frocks of Soudan
I would not change my religion." I then addressed them
sharply against wishing to alter the decrees of God,
turning the dogmas of their religion upon themselves,
and quoted the Koran, —
" Thou wilt not find out any means of enlightening
him whom God delivers over to error."
Immediately, this unexpected style of argument struck
them dumb. After recovering their senses they became
restless to leave me, and began to beg a few things. I
gave them some sugar and cake, and we parted apparent
friends. On going out, they could not forbear asking
Said if he was a Mussulman. Like many other Mos-
lemites of Sahara, they said, " The Turks are not good
Mussulmans." I replied, "Mustapha, the Bey of Gha
dames, is a better Mussulman than any of the Ghadam
see people."
The reader may disapprove of my conduct in these
my frequent evasions of the question of religion ; but
when they reflect that it required, during my residence
in Ghat and other parts of Sahara, the whole strength
of my mind, and the utmost tact, to maintain a simple

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 25
and consistent confession of myself as a Christian, and
that to have said a word, or even to have breathed a
syllable of disrespect for Mahomet and his religion,
would have exposed me to be torn to pieces by the rab
ble, and perhaps murdered in my bed, they will probably
feel less disposed to censure my conduct. If there be
any doubt of this critical situation of an European who
travels openly and avows himself a Christian in The
Sahara, all I can do is to beg of the doubter to make
the experiment himself. The reader will also be pleased
to recollect, that the Denham and Clapperton party,
though they travelled the safest routes of Sahara, were
protected by the Bashaw of Tripoli, and their safety
was guaranteed solemnly to our Government, as being
the immediate agents and representatives of the British
nation; and, finally, they had a large escort of Arab
cavalry from Fezzan to Bornou. Yet these tourists,
surrounded with such protection, were actually circum
cised at Tripoli by Dr. Dickson*, and were accustomed
to attend the mosques and perform prayer as Mussul
mans. Colonel Warrington certainly told me the people
saw through all the mummery, and laughed, or were
angry. As to the Frenchman, Caillie, his eternal tale
of fabrication, repeated every day, and every hour of
the day, to every Sheikh, and every merchant, camel-
driver, and slave of The Desert, produces a very painful
impression on the mind of the reader. Caillie's false
hood, as lie begets lie, begat many others. He was
obliged to tell the people, that Mahometans were not
tolerated in Christian countries. He told the Africans,
* I speak on the authority of Mr. Gagliuffi, our Vice-Consul at
Mourzuk.

26 THE GREAT DESERT.
also, that slavery was abolished in Europe, at the time
even when England had her thousands of West Indian
slaves. In this way, whatever service Caillie has ren
dered to geography, he has damaged the moral interests
of the world. The African Mussulmans might say to
future tourists, "If Christians tolerate not us, why
should we Mussulmans tolerate you," and assassinate the
luckless European tourist. Whatever, then, were my
evasions on the question of religion (and I sincerely
confess I do not approve of them), I never stooped to
such folly, and so far disgraced my character as an Eng
lishman and a Christian, as to adopt the creed and cha
racter of a Mahometan. I moreover, on reflecting upon
the tremendous question, which I often revolved in my
painful journeying over The Desert — determined at all
events, at all costs, come what might, I would never
profess myself a Mussulman, if it were even to save my
head. I thought the least I could do was to imitate the
noble example, which The Desert reports of Major Laing
— Sooner than forswear my religion, be it good or bad,
it was better to die ! " Mental reservation" may be good
for the Jesuits and papists*, who misquote the conduct
of Jacob to Esau, but it is neither fit for a Christian, or
a patriot, or, at any rate, for an honest man, who was,
is, and ever will be,
" The noblest work of God."
Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. A Ghadamsee
came in who attempted to frighten me from going to
* And even those who take an oath of et ceteras at the National
Universities ! And others who subscribe to creeds which they do
not read, or if read them, do not comprehend them.

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 27
Soudan. Haj Ibrahim has the same prejudices as the
rest of the people of Tripoli respecting the supposed
wealth of the Ghadamsee people. " They have plenty
of money but conceal it. Sheikh Makouran has abun
dance of gold, but he cunningly professes himself a poor
man." I have lately read in a work published by the
French Government, that once upon a time, a son of old
Yousef Bashaw sacked Ghadames and carried off " several
camel-loads of gold."
The Touarick mode of saluting is very simple and
elegant, but cold, colder than that of the English. A
Touarghee elevates deliberately the right hand to a level
with his face, turning the outspread palm to the indi
vidual, and slowly but with a fine intonation says,
" Saldm Aleikoum." This is all. When using his own
language, a few words are added. How strikingly con
trasted are the habits of different people. Amongst the
Moors and Arabs this mode of saluting is their way of
cursing. With the outspread hand menacingly raised, a
man or woman puts their enemy under the ban and
curse of God. A vulgar interpretation is, that it means
" five in your eye ;" but this custom of cursing is so
remote as not now to be explained. The door-posts and
rooms of houses are imprinted with the outspread hand
to prevent or withstand " the eye-malign" from glancing
on them and the inhabitants its fatal influence.
20th. — Rose early, felt better in health to-day. Am,
however, annoyed, but from what cause I cannot tell.
Entertain many misgivings about the climate of Soudan,
and having no medicine dispirits me. It is now too late
to retreat. " Onward" is the only destiny which guides
men, to good or evil. Had a visit from the eldest son

28 THE GREAT DESERT.
of the Governor. Gave him two cups of tea, a little
sugar, and two biscuits, which made him my friend for
ever ; a cheap purchase of eternal friendship. Shafou,
he says, will not come before the whole of the Soudan
ghafalahs arrive, of which there are still some portions
lagging behind. A Soudan caravan, as all Desert cara
vans, is an omnibus ; it collects parties of merchants all
along the line of route, and distributes them in the same
way, but having a starting-post and a goal. Haj
Ahmed's son wished to introduce the question of religion.
"The world is nothing and Paradise is every thing."
" Amen," I replied. " What do you think of Mahomet?"
" The Mahometans have Mahomet, the Jews Moses, and
the Christians Jesus, each for their prophet," I said, after
which not very satisfactory answer to him, the conversa
tion dropped. He now inquired if I had written to
Tripoli to bring plenty of sugar and tea, with a latent
desire for a portion of the spoil. I told him " No," very
emphatically. Called at my neighbour's, Bel Kasem, and found him
doctoring a poor negress girl. She could neither eat nor
drink, she vomited and purged, her bones were nearly
through her skin, her stomach empty and dried up as
a sun-dried water-skin. Bel Kasem was rubbing her
all over with oil. He asked me for medicine. I said,
" Give her something good to eat." He replied, " I have
nothing." "What do you eat yourself?" I asked-
"Bread and bazeen," he replied. "Give her that," I
rejoined. He hesitated to reply, did not reply; I saw
he considered such food too good for a slave, even to
save its life. Such is but one dark sad picture of a
thousand now being exhibited here ! One would think

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 29
God had made one part of the human race to torment
the other.
Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. A merchant
in his house related that Noufee was now convulsed with
a civil war. This country is now in the hands of the
Fullans. He had often visited that country, and had
seen English people there. A large caravan has this
winter left Mourzuk for Kanou vid Aheer. Haj Ibrahim
pretends that the Touaricks of Aheer are better than
those of Ghat, but the former are people of the country
(or peasants), not towns. The Haj has not begun to
dispose of his goods, but he will exchange them against
slaves. He, however, as a subject of Tunis, is virtually
prohibited by the Bey's ordinances.
My most friendly visitors are the merchants and traders
from Soudan, Kanou, and Sukatou. I cannot help look
ing upon these people with profound pity. They bring
their sable brethren, of the same flesh and blood, and
barter them away for trumpery beads, coarse paper, and
cloth, &c. They little think, that for such trifles, what
miseries they inflict upon their helpless brethren ! A
Kanou merchant, in a friendly manner, recommended me
not to go to Soudan, adding, " The Touaricks of Aheer
would butcher me because I was a Christian." A similar
recommendation is being given me by the Arabs, Gha
dames people, and others. Still there is a great variety
of opinions, pros and cons, on this subject.
21st. — Rose early, improved in health. A small bird,
not much bigger than a wren, flits about the houses as
our sparrows. This is probably the Jereed sparrow of
Shaw, Bou Habeeba, or Capsa-sparrow, but I saw it at
no other oasis except Ghat. It is of a lark colour, with

30 THE GREAT DESERT.
a light reddish breast, flitting about continually, twitter
ing a short and abrupt note, but very sweet and gentle.
Yesterday Haj Ahmed sent me a few dates and a little
milk. To-day the Governor paid me a formal visit.
He was polite and friendly. However, he observed, " If
you, Yakob, had brought a few presents for the Touarghee
chiefs they would all have known* you, but you have
come without any thing, with empty hands." I replied
that I did not expect to come to Ghat when I left
Tripoli. Nevertheless, if the Touarick chiefs were
friendly, and would protect Englishmen in The Desert,
both the people and Government of England would, I
was quite sure, acknowledge the protection with suitable
presents. He was satisfied with the explanation. Some
of our caravan had told him I had come with nothing,
and had overrated my poverty as some tourists have their
riches overrated. But this report of abject poverty was
a great advantage to me. He was greatly surprised
when I told him the Sultan of the English was a woman.
I explained, as I had done at Ghadames, when the
kings of our country had no sons, but had daughters,
the daughters became sovereigns. My vanity was some
what piqued at the Governor's direct allusion to presents,
and I determined, that he himself, at any rate, should
have as large a present from me as he got from any of
the foreign merchants. He then asked me if I was an
English Marabout. I replied, " Yes ;" for a Marabout,
as in the Governor's own case, means sometimes a person
who can tolerably read and write. In this sense I may
claim the sacred title. I also dub myself occasionally
* That is, being on friendly terms with you.

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 31
tabeeb (doctor), but mostly taleb, a mere literary man or
pretender to literature. I believe that coming without
arms, and as poor as possible, has had a good effect upon
the Touaricks. They see, if they were so disposed, they
cannot maltreat a man in my circumstances with a very
good grace. I have still left, very fortunately, a supply
of eye- water, and am making presents of it daily. This
solution keeps my medical diploma clean and fair in
Ghat. Had another visit from the family of the Governor.
All aspire to religious discussion. Addressing me,
" Which way do you pray, east or west ?" said another
of his sons. " I pray in all directions, for God is every
where." " You ought to pray in the east." " No, for
The Koran says, ' The east and the west belong to God,
wherever you turn you find the face of God*.'" He
continued, " You are idolators, why do you pray to
images ?" " The English people do not pray to images,"
I rejoined. As he doubted my word, I was obliged to
enter into explanations of the customs of Romanists and
Protestants. It is amusing or lamentable to think, as
we may sneer at or regret the matter, that these rude
children of The Desert should have ground for charging
upon the high-bred and transcendantally-Tpolished nations
of Europe, idolatry. But, if [any one, determined to
be an impartial judge, were to visit the Madelaine of
Paris, and then pass rapidly over to Algeria, (a journey
of a few days), and there enter the simple mosque, and
compare its prostrate worshippers, in the plain unadorned
temple of Islamism, with the bowing and crossing, going
* See Surat ii., intitled " The Cow."

32 THE GREAT DESERT.
on before the pretty saints and images of the Catholic
temple of the Parisians, he could not fail to be struck
with the immeasurable space which separates the two
cultes, whilst the contrast, so far as the eternal records
of nature, impressed upon and read in the page of
creation, are involved, would be all in favour of the
Moslemite deist, and pity and folly would be mingled
with his ideas when appreciating the papistical quasi-
idolator. A young Touarghee came in with the party, whose
eyes were very bad. After a good deal of persuasion,
for he was at first quite frightened at me, he consented
to allow me to apply the caustic. He is a follower of
Sheikh Jabour, and employed near the person of the
Sheikh. To show how smoothly things go after the
first difficulty is vanquished, I may mention, that he
visited me ever after whilst I remained in Ghat, some
times coming every day, and always begging his eyes
might be washed with the solution. I had another visit
from the Soudan traders. They say people just like
me come up to Noufee to where they are now return
ing. They speak Arabic very imperfectly, and are
obliged to converse with signs. They describe thou
sands of slaves being carried away by men with
white cheeks and hands like myself, putting their hands
round their wrists and their necks to show how the
slaves were ironed. These slaves are carried down
the Niger to the salt water (Atlantic). I asked them
how the slaves were obtained. One of them sprung up
in an instant, seizing an Arab's gun. He then per
formed a squatting posture, skulking down, and creep
ing upon the floor of my room, and waiting or watching

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 33
in silence. He then made a sudden spring, as a tiger
on its prey, with a wild shout. These wily antics evi
dently denoted a private kidnapping expedition. Many
slaves are, however, captives of war, for the negro
princes are as fond of war as the military nations of
France and Prussia, and can play at soldiers as well as
the King of Naples. Evening, as usual, paid a visit
to Haj Ibrahim. Nothing new, except an economical
bill of expenses, from Ghat to Soudan, chalked out for
me by a Ghadamsee, in prospect of my journey,
viz : —
Presents, en route, to various chiefs . 13 dollars.
Wheat and bread . . . . 5 „
Olive-oil and semen (liquid butter) . 1 „
Extras and unforseen expenses . . 3 „
Total ... 22
This, I imagine, is about what it would cost him him
self, though he pretended to allow a little more for me.
These 22 dollars are to carry a person two months
over Sahara and one over Negroland to Kanou. It will
be seen there is nothing down for meat, or sugar, and
tea and coffee, in which luxuries Saharan merchants
rarely indulge.

VOL. II.

34

CHAPTER XVIT.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Gloves an enigma of Wonder. — Visit Sheikh Hateetah. — All Men
equal at Ghat. — Crowds of People surrounding my House to see
me.' — Violent Act committed on a Man at Prayer in the
Mosque. — Extent of European Literature known at Ghat. —
Continue unwell. — Ouweek's public Apology. — Dances of the
Slaves. — A Saharan Emeute. — Arrival of Caravans.—- Return
the Visit of the Governor. — Europe, a cluster of innumerable
Islets. — Who has most Money, Christians or Mahometans? — ¦
People more used to my presence in Ghat. — The Prophet of the
Touaricks. — Visit from Aheer Touaricks. — The Governor's
petty dealing. — The Shereef of Moorzuk. — Visit from Jabour.
—Beginning Soudanic Cottons. — Visits from Kandarka and
Zolea, — Route from Ghat to Alexandria, and its distance. —
The Shereef of Medina. — Character and influence of Khanouhen,
heir-apparent of the Touarghee Throne of the Azgher Toua
ricks, and his arrival in Ghat.
22nd. — Have considerable pain in my stomach with
change of diet. Did not go out yesterday and the day
before in the day-time, on account of the rabble who
follow so close at my heels, that my guides and pro
tectors can't keep them off. Sent a shumlah ("sash")
to Haj Ahmed, the Governor, this morning. He ex
pressed himself highly gratified. This makes the Go
vernor's present about five dollars more than he gets
from any of the merchants. The richest and most
powerful merchants don't give more, and some of them
not half this amount. I have already giyen away 20
dollars out of my extremely modest resources.
Nothing surprises the natives of Ghat and the

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 35
Touaricks so much as my gloves. I am obliged to put
them off and on a hundred times a day to please people.
They then try them on, look at them inside and outside,
in every shape and way, expressing their utter asto
nishment by the most sacred names of Deity. Some,
also, have not seen stockings before, and examine them
with much wonderment. But the gloves carry the palm
in exciting the emotion of the terrible. One said, after
he had put the glove on his hand, "Ah! ah! Whey!
whoo! that's the hand of the Devil himself!"
The Souk or mart has now fairly begun. Merchants
are desperately busy buying and selling, chiefly ex
changing goods against slaves. All complain of the
dearness of slaves.
Afternoon visited Sheikh Hateetah, "Friend" or
"Consul" of the English. Found him still unwell; he
complains of pain in his bowels. This is the case with
most people in Ghat, myself amongst the rest. It
cannot be the water, for it is the purest and sweetest of
The Desert. Prescribed a little medicine for the Sheikh,
who promises to introduce me to Sultan Shafou when
he arrives. Returned by another route, and in this
manner made the tour of the town. Half an hour is
fully enough to walk round the mere walls of the city,
but then there are considerable suburbs, consisting of
huts and stone and mud houses. At the Sheikh's I met
a merchant just returned from Kanou; I put some
questions to him, who, thinking I wished to have every
one answered in the affirmative, gave me his terrible
"yahs" and "aywahs" to all and everything de
manded. "Are there many people ill in Kanou ?"
D 2

36 THE GREAT DESERT.
" Yes, many."
"Is the route to Kanou unsafe?"
"Yes."
"Are there banditti in route ?"
"Yes." "Is it hot in Kanou?"
"Very hot, very hot."
"Is there fever in Kanou ?"
"Yes, always."
This I thought was good news. I fear we often get
incorrect intelligence from these people, through their
anxiety to answer all our questions in the affirmative,
they not understanding that we put the questions to
them simply to gain information.
All men are indeed equal here, as saith the Gover
nor. There seems to be no ruling authority, and every
one does what is right in his own eyes. Yesterday,
although the Governor knew that some of his slaves or
other people had stolen my sugar, he never condescended
to mention the circumstance, by speaking to his eldest
son about the theft ; he said absurdly enough, " Oh, if
we knew the thief, we would put him to death." On
protesting against such punishment for the offence, he
rejoined, " Oh, but we would cut off his hand." This is
all stuff, and a proof of the weakness of the Governor's
authority. Happily, however, there's no crime worth
naming in the oasis.
Am obliged to keep the door shut to prevent people
from rushing into the house by twenties and fifties at
once. The Governor has sent strict orders to his slaves
to keep the door shut, first, to prevent me from being
pestered to death all day long, and, secondly, because

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 37
some of the people have got the habit here, as in Europe,
of picking up little things. A young slave is crying out,
" Bago ! bago !" every five minutes, in answer to knock
ing at the door to see The Christian, which we interpret
in European phrase more politely, " Not at home," but
which signifieth in the original Housa, "No, no." How
ever, a troop of the lower class of Touaricks managed to
squeeze in as some of our people went out, but I got rid
of them without angry words.
A Ghadamsee resident here, came in to-day, with a
severe gash on his hands, and one of his fingers, to ask
my advice and beg medicine. The gash was inflicted
upon him whilst at prayer, by a vagabond Touarghee.
The assailant alleged as the reason of his violent act, that
the Ghadamsee had called him a thief amongst the
people, adding, that he (the Touarghee) had stolen two
skin-bags out of a house. For such violence, such a
daring act perpetrated on a man whilst in the solemn
performance of prayer, our Marabout Governor was
obliged to give satisfaction to the injured party. His
Excellency stripped the house of the Touraghee of all his
little property, turned him out into the street, and
ordered him immediately to leave Ghat. To the honour,
and humanity, and morality of the inhabitants of this
part of The Sahara, such acts of violence are extremely
rare. The Ghadamsee had poulticed his hand with wet
clay and camel's dung. I recommended a bread poultice,
but he kept to his clay and camel's dung. The Saharans
mostly prefer their own remedies, though they may con
descend to ask you your advice. Bought some olive oil
from the Arabs of Gharian. Before pouring it out they
wished me to put sugar in the measure. I suspected

38 THE GREAT DESERT.
some trick, and refused. As soon as the measure was
out of my servant's hand, they seized it, some licking
it, others rubbing their hands in it, and then oiling their
bread. They wanted to have a lick at the sugar, which
would have settled down at the bottom ; and were very
angry with me because I did not take their advice of
improving the oil with my sugar. These Arabs are
really more greedy and rapacious than the Touaricks.
The difference is, the Arabs are near Tripoli, see Euro
peans, and learn to be more polite to us than the Toua
ricks can well be.
A son of the Governor recited to me the following
famous distich, begging me to tell him what it meant : —
" Tummora, tummora, tera,
Buon giorno, buona sera."
On inquiring how he learn it, he told me a Moor of
Tripoli taught it him. This seems to be the extent of
European literature acquired by the Ghateen.
23rd. — Continue to have pains in my stomach, and
feel very weak. Am undecided whether I shall go or
not to Soudan. However, Haj Ibrahim has kindly
offered to let me have twenty-five dollars' worth of
goods on credit, which, in the case of my going, will
relieve me from every embarrassment as to money for
the present, until I can get a remittance from Tripoli,
for these twenty-five dollars will furnish the presents and
expenses of the route, and allow me to retain some
twenty or thirty dollars in my pocket. The reader will
and must smile at this mighty statement of my financial
affairs, worthy of a Desert Budget!
Essnousee called. Ouweek is a personal friend of his;
Essnousee says : — " Ouweek has told us, he feared from

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 39
you (myself), for the English had never before been in
his district. For the rest, he was only playing with you.
He wished to see whether an Englishman was a man of
courage. This you proved to be, for you sat down and
ate dates and biscuit whilst he was threatening to kill
you. It also proved that you knew that he (Ouweek)
was playing with you, for how could you eat dates if you
thought he was going to kill you." This is Ouweek's
defence about town. I heard also a curious version
about the slave who ran to the horse. Zalea says, the
slave ran there to get Ouweek farther from me, giving me
an opportunity, if I chose, of escaping to Ghat. This
affair still occupies public attention, but Ouweek keeps
his present, and evidently will not restore it despite the
threats of Jabour. Essnousee tells me not to be afraid
of Ouweek, for he has influence with the Sheikh.
A Souk of little things has just been opened, and pro
visions, with all sorts of small articles, the manufacture of
Soudan and Aheer, are exposed for sale in the public
square. Formerly, these matters were purchased at
private houses. This is a step in the march of Saharan
commerce. Yesterday evening, the poor slaves danced and sung
till midnight in the public squares. Ever-pitying Provi
dence, so permits an hour of gaiety to suffering huma
nity, under circumstances the most adverse to happiness!
The slaves of the caravan are, a few of them, permitted
to join those of the town, and the exiled slaves some
times obtain intelligence in this way of their country.
Generally the slaves imported are from such a variety of
districts in Negroland, and so widely apart, that the slaves
of The Sahara can hear little of their native homes. I

40 THE GREAT DESERT.
asked Bel Kasem, if the slaves of the Ghafalah were
prisoners of war. " No," he replied, " there is no war
now in Soudan ; these are captured with matchlocks at
night by robbers (sbandout) ; the negro is frightened out
of his wits at the sound of fire-arms."
Afternoon there was a tremendous hubbub in the
pubhc square or market-place, the Negresses flying in
all directions from the scene of tumult. One of Haj
Ahmed's negresses comes running to me : " Shut the
door, shut the door, the world is upset, the world is
upset ! Haj Ahmed, my master, is no Sheikh, no Sultan.
He can't keep the people quiet. I'm going, I'm going."
"Where are you going?" "I'm going to another and
quieter country, to Haj Ahmed, my master, to tell him
the news." This is a very lively negress, her tongue
never stops ; she retails all the news of the country to
me, and is a great politician in her way. Some of these
Ghat negresses are actually witty, and crack jokes with
the grave Touaricks. The Touaricks are too gallant to
be offended with the freedom of even female slaves. I
felt somewhat alarmed, thinking the discomfitted party
might come and avenge their defeat upon the unlucky
Christian stranger. We barricaded the door, and kept
quiet, anxiously waiting the result, as people do in Paris,
when an emeute is being enacted for the especial benefit
of the Parisians. Afterwards I learnt the particulars of
this strange tumult. There is an old half-cracked
Sheikh, who goes every day into the public square, and
strikes his spear into the ground, and retiring at a dis
tance, exclaims aloud to all present, "Whoever dares
to touch that spear I'll kill him!" To-day a young
Touarick passed by, and seeing the spear sticking up

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 41
very formidably, as if challenging all passers-by, went
near it, and said, "What's this?" and took hold of it.
The crazy Sheikh was watching at some distance, and
now was his opportunity to show the people his deter
mined will and resolution. He rushes at the lad with
his dagger in hand. In an instant the whole place
is in wild tumult, cries and shouts rend the air, with a
forest of spears brandishing over the heads of Touaricks,
Arabs, Moors, slaves, men, women, and children, min
gling together, and running over one another in a
frightful melee. The boy is rescued, the people resume
their lounging seats, the storm drops to a dead calm,
and nobody is hurt, not even scratched. Such is a row
amongst these untutored children of The Desert. How
different to the Thuggee rows now being enacted in
Ireland !
Afterwards paid a visit to Bel Kasem. He com
plained bitterly of slaves being dear. A slave is sold at
from 40 to 100 dollars. The mediate price is 60 to 70,
Two months ago good slaves were sold at 30 and 40
dollars each. The reason given is the great quantity of
merchandize arrived direct from Tripoli, besides from
the lateral routes of Ghadames and Mourzuk. The
English Vice-Consul of the latter city has sent quanti
ties of goods to this mart, but these are exchanged only
for senna and ivory. This evening arrived another
Tripoline merchant with twenty camels of merchandize.
He came vid Mizdah and Shaty, and was forty-five days
en route. The Touat caravan (very small) has arrived,
bringing Touat woollen barracans and Timbuctoo gold.
The affair of the Timbuctoo caravan is differently
reported. It is now said the people killed were the

42 THE GREAT DESERT.
inhabitants of Ain Salah. The Desert is a great
exaggerator and misinterpreter. It is very difficult to
get correct news.
2ith. — Better in health this morning, after taking
medicine yesterday. First thing, returned the visit of
the Governor. When I go out early, find few persons
about the streets. People are up as late in winter
as they are early in summer. The Touaricks of the
suburban huts do not come to town till very late in
the morning, when the Souk begins. His Excellency
treated me with three cups of coffee. He said, " You
must take three, because it is the destined number of
hospitality, and as many more as you choose." It was
wretched stuff — hot water and sugar, blackened or dilu
ted with a little badly-ground coffee. But bis Excel
lency thought he was conferring upon me a vast favour.
Few people drink coffee in this country, and it is con
sidered a great luxury. A man from Bengazi, a visitor,
was also treated with his three cups of coffee. These
Saharans have strange notions in their heads respecting
the geography of England, and the capabilities of its
inhabitants in travelling. The Governor asked me, " If
the English could travel by land?" I was astonished at
the question, but I saw he imagined our country, and
European countries generally, to be so many little islets
in the ocean*. It is curious, likewise, how old this notion
* Is XLi. 1, 5; xLix. i. Whilst in Jer. ii. 10, Europe entire is
presented to the prophetic vision by the designation of " the Isles
of Chittim." Sometimes the whole idea of Gentiles and Gentile
nations is represented by the isles of the sea. The Hebrew bards,
standing on the heights of Lebanon, and looking westwards saw
nothing but innumerable clusters of islets in the dim and undefined
distance of the waters of the Mediterranean.

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 43
is. The Hebrew prophets, who were bad geographers,
depicted all western Europe as "the isles of the sea."
The Governor continued, " But can you travel on land,
when water is wanted, as in this country V Before the
French occupied Algiers, the Saharans thought it im
possible for Christians to invade, or even to travel in,
their country. This gave the French invading army
such a vast prestige when they once got upon terrd firma.
The event was as unexpected and marvelled at as the
immediate results were decisive and brilliant. I an
swered, " In travelling through Christian countries, water
is met with every day. If it be necessary to carry water
however, water is carried. The French carry it in Al
geria, and the English in India, when the country is dry
and desert, on the backs of camels." His Excellency,
greatly surprised, " What ! impossible ! Have the Chris
tians camels ? God gave the camels only to the Faithful."
I returned, " We have troops of camels." " And where
do you get camels?" asked the Governor, with great
seriousness. " The French buy camels from Mussulmans
in Algeria, and the English keep camels in India."
"Ah!" observed the Governor, "those French Mussul
mans sell camels to infidels. They themselves are infi
dels." His Excellency now inquired about religion, and
whether all Christians had books (i. e. books of religion).
As before noticed, there is a prevailing opinion here
that Protestants have no Scriptures, whilst, indeed, as
we know, they are the Christians who only, bond fide,
have the free use of the Scriptures. I saw that Haj
Ahmed, though a Marabout, was sufficiently ignorant on
the religion of Christians. His Excellency then asked
about money.

44 THE GREAT DESERT.
"Who have the most money, Mussulmans or the
English?" /. — "The English. The Sultan of Constantinople
has no money, or spends it faster than he gets it. Me-
hemet Ali has but little money. However, Muley
Abd Errahman has some saved up in the vaults of
Mekinas." The Governor. — "Muley Abd Errahman belongs to
us ; we are his subjects. We have nothing to do with
the Turks or the Touaricks. As the English have much
money, why have not you much?"
This question — this home-thrust — was made in a pe
culiarly arch way.
" If I had brought much money," I replied, as point
edly, " I'm sure I should have been murdered before I
got to Ghat. All my friends, and the Rais of Ghadames
told me not to carry any money with me."
This clear and positive statement made the visitors,
who were numerous, burst out laughing. His Excel
lency, taken by surprise, asked abruptly, " How? Why?"
I added, " Two Englishmen have been murdered in The
Desert, the one near Wadnoun (Davidson), and the
other near Timbuctoo (Major Laing), and both upon the
supposition of their having possessed much money."
The Governor at once dropped the subject, thinking I
was going to bring upon the tapis Ouweek. His Excel
lency often quizzes me about having no money, evidently
not believing a word of my alleged poverty. I then
asked the Governor what he thought of the great camel-
driver, Kandarka, who conducts the caravans, and
nearly all the Ghadamseeah between Ghat and Aheer.
He answered, to my surprise, Ma ndraf, "I don't

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 45
know," for Kandarka has an excellent reputation. This
was the Jesuitism of the Moor.
I took leave, and was escorted to Hateetah by my
young Touarghee friend, whose eyes I'm doctoring. On
our way we met his master, Sheikh Jabour, who stopped
to salute us. Afterwards, somebody hailed us from a
hut. My Touarghee friend turned and said, " They
want to see you." We went, and I found several of my
Ghadamsee acquaintance and some Touarghee people of
consequence, all squatting down on the sand in a gos
siping circle. They soon began on the troublesome sub
ject of religion, after they had gratified their curiosity in
staring at me and through me. One said to the Gha
damsee people, " Tell the Christian to repeat, ' There's one
God,'" &c. I was determined to risk an abrupt answer.
I said, " This saying is prohibited to Christians." At
this stop-mouth answer they burst out into a fit of hila
rity. But one fellow, who wished to show some zeal,
growled out, " Be off, be off." My good-natured young
Touarghee quickly got up from the circle, where he had
taken his seat, and smiling, took me by the arm, whis
pering in my ear, " Come along, Yakob, these are brutish
people." We found Hateetah better. I asked him
seriously if there was danger in my going to Aheer. He
observed, " Without a letter from Shafou you can't go,
the merchants can't and won't protect you. Some of
them are big rascals, worse than us Touaricks, and will
sell you as a slave for a dollar." Many concur in this
opinion. I found the Ghatee people more peaceable in
the streets, now the novelty of my appearance is dimi
nishing. When I pay a visit to a person of consequence
I always put on my European clothes, which compliment

46 THE GREAT DESERT.
is perfectly understood, for I offended an old Sheikh
with going to him with my burnouse on instead of my
French cloak. He said to my uncouth cicerone, " This
Christian doesn't pay me respect, why doesn't he dress
himself in Christian clothes 1" Hateetah always makes
me promise to return by the eastern side of the city,
where we meet with very few persons. Saw Haj Ibrahim
on my return. He complains of the market : — " Slaves
are very dear. What can we do? We are obliged to
buy them ; there is nothing else in the market. Only a
small quantity of elephants' teeth and a little senna.
Besides these, nothing else sells in Tripoli."
Returning from the merchants, "Whey! whey! whoo!
whoo! whoo!" saluted my ears. This noise came from
a group of people surrounding En-Nibbee Targhee, "The
Prophet of the Touaricks." The salute was followed by
a number of persons who rushed upon me, carried me
by force into the presence of The Prophet. The Seer,
seeing me discomposed, said in a kind tODe, " Gheem,"
(sit down). Now there was profoundest silence, not a
murmur was heard amongst a hundred people crowded
together. The Seer stood up before me, and, assuming
an imposing attitude, spoke in monosyllabic style, the
usual address adopted by North African and Saharan
prophets, —
" Christian, Ghat, good, you ?"
Myself. — " Yes, the people are good to me."
The Prophet. — "Three! one!" (putting out one
finger of the right hand, and three of the left hand.)
Myself. — " There is one God !" (knowing the prophet
meant this, for it is the usual way of badgering Christians
about the Trinity in North Africa.)

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 47
The Prophet. — " Good :" (then making the sign of
the cross by putting his two forefingers into the shape of
a cross.) " But you Christians worship this (the cross)
of wood, stone, iron, brass. This is not good, not
good." Myself. — " No, we English do not worship wood, stone,
iron, or brass."
The Prophet. — " You lie, you lie." (At this emphatic
negative, up stepped one of my" Ghadamsee friends to
the Prophet, and told him that the English did not
worship the cross or images like some other Christians.)
The Prophet. — " Good, right, sublime. What's your
name ?"
Myself.—" Yakob."
The Prophet. — " You, dog, Jew."
Myself. — "No. This is the Arabic of my English
name." The Prophet. — " Good, good ; Yakob, do you steal ?"
Myself. — " Please God, I hope not."
The Prophet.—" Yakob, do you lie ?"
Myself. — " Please God, I hope not."
The Prophet.—" Yakob, do you strike ?" (i. e. kill.)
Myself. — " Please God, I hope not."
The Prophet. — " Good, good, good. Have you seen
the Kafers in Algiers ?" (i. e. the French.)
Myself.—" I have."
The Prophet. — " Have they houses where women are
kept, and twenty men go in and sleep with one woman
in an hour 1" (At this question, the multitude showed
intense anxiety to hear the result.)
Myself.—" I don't know."
I had scarcely made answer when two women

48 THE GREAT DESERT.
rushed npon the Prophet and dragged him away crying,
"Yamout, Mat: he is dying! he is dead!" As the
Prophet was pulled away he turned to me mildly and
said, " Ydkob, inker, Arise, James." I inquired where
he was being dragged to, and was told that the husband
of the two women was just dead, and the Prophet was
going to see whether he could raise him from the dead.
The Prophet had already raised several people from
death to life. It is a pity this barbarian prophet could
not be transported from the sands of The Sahara to
the marble pavement of the Vatican, where he might
harangue Pope Pius IX. and his Cardinals in the style
of an Iconoclast, and induce the Sacred College to abolish
their scandal of image-worship. The Prophet wears a
leathern dress, or dried skins, from head to foot. His
repute of sanctity fills the surrounding deserts with its
holy odours. The number of miracles he performs is
prodigious. His leathern burnouse, like the Holy Tunic
of Treves, is frequently carried about to cure the sick
and work miracles.
Coming home, I had a visit from some Touaricks of
Aheer. They were uncommonly civil, addressing me:
" If you go with us, you have nothing to fear. In Aheer,
people will not call out to you in the streets as in Ghat.
We have a Sultan. Here there is no Sultan." They
were amazed at my little keys. I promised one of them,
that, in case of my arriving safe in Aheer, I would give
him a little lock and key. This delighted him ; and two
pieces of sugar, one each, made these Aheer Touaricks
excellent friends. Have visits from the Ghateen. Several
of these people are going to Soudan with the return
caravan.

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 49
In better spirits to-day. Have been suffering from
" The Boree." Such a variety of discouraging influences
press upon the mind, that it is very difficult to keep it
buoyant. Poor Said, he gives way in tears. He is
become terrified at the prospect of Soudan ; he repeats,
"The Touaricks will kill you, and make me a slave
again." Had another visit from the uncle of Sheikh Jabour, a
poor old gentleman. I got rid of him by a bit of white
sugar, which he munched as a little child. He says,
" One thousand Touarghee warriors are going against
the Shanbah after the mart is held." Was to-day asto
nished to hear, that a few dates, a little gusub, a few
onions, and a few stones of dates, which a female slave
offers for sale in the streets, belong to Haj Ahmed the
Governor ! His Excellency sends the poor woman every
morning to sell this miserable merchandize, and she regu
larly pays into his hands the price and profits every
evening. This is one of the wrinkles of the Great
Governor Marabout, who lives in a palace, and reigns as
king and priest of Ghat and the Ghateen*! What shall
I hear next ? I am not surprised, some of the Ghadamsee
merchants sneer at the idea of Haj Ahmed being "a
Marabout of odour." Essnousee sent me a little pre
sent of vermicelli and cuscasou, or hamsa. He certainly
behaves, better than the other Ghadamsee merchants
resident here. I'm told, there will not be many Touarick
visitors this year at Ghat. They have unexpected occu
pation to defend themselves against the sanguinary forays
of the Shanbah. And then, the late rains having pro-
* A Moor of Ghat now and then goes to Tripoli. The Italian
merchants call them the Gatti, " cats."
VOL. II. E

50 THE GREAT DESERT.
duced abundant herbage, they are also occupied in
grazing the camels. The merchants congratulate me on
these circumstances, and say I shall have less presents to
distribute. Met at Haj Ibrahim's a Shereef of Mourzuk, who
pretends he is going to Soudan. This is a little thin
fellow, who glides into people's houses through the key
hole, importunately begging on the strength of his being
of the family of the Prophet, and lives by the same
pretensions. He has a smiling face, with his head
reclined always on one side from his habit of incessant
importunities ; of course, he has not a para in his
pocket. But, nevertheless, he managed a few months
ago to ally himself with the family of a rich merchant,
marrying the sister of my friend Mohammed Kafah, one of
the Ghatee millionnaires. Kafah is thoroughly disgusted
with his sister's marriage, and gives them nothing to eat,
or only enough to keep his sister from dying of starva
tion. One of the Shereef's items of importunity, is his
incessant abuse of his brother-in-law, because he won't
keep him in idleness. This little sorry shrimpy quasi-
impostor can neither read nor write. He tells me it is
quite unnecessary. The blood of the Prophet makes
him noble, and fit for heaven at any time Rubbee may
decree his death. He is professionally and continually
begging from me, and says with a whining pomposity,
"Put yourself under my protection, I will escort you safe to
Soudan. No one dare lift a finger against a Christian
under the protection of a Shereef!" But it's odd, these
and such offers of protection come from many quarters.
The camel-drivers and conducteurs look upon me as a
good speculation. The Shereef pretends that there are

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 51
no less than two hundred of his family in Soudan, and
some nearly black, on account of their intermarriages
with negroes. One thing I like in the little wretch, he
seems devoid of a spark of bigotry against Christians.
It may be that his mind is too impotent for the malicious
feeling. " Gagliuffi," he says, " is my friend. I'm the
protector of the English at Mourzuk." Mustapha of
Tripoli has cut me because I would not allow him to
charge me double for the sugar, cloves, and sunbul, which
I purchased of him. A pretty rogue is this; but I for
give him, for his voluntary and opportune services in
interpreting for me on my arrival in Ghat.
25th. — Christmas Day! Not a merry Christmas for
me — in truth, a sad, an unhappy one. And yet I ought
to be content, having food and raiment, and enjoying the
protection of God amidst strangers, in The Inhospitable
Desert ! It is better for a man to pray for a happy
mind than for riches and celebrity. Weather has been
mostly fine during the ten days I have resided here.
But this morning broke angrily, followed with a tremen
dous gale, blowing from the east, prostrating all the
palms, and filling the air with sand, as a thrice con
densed London November fog. It is besides very cold,
and is so far Christmas weather. I may add, the weather
continued unusually cold this Souk. People had not
had such cold for many a year. Received a visit from
the Sheikh Jabour, who expressed himself uncommonly
friendly, and said, "If anything unpleasant occurs, call
for me." I showed him some cuts of a book, in which
were drawings of Moors. He was wonder-stricken.
The sight of a date-palm pleased him exceedingly,
tickling the fancy of his followers who accompanied him,
E 2

52 THE GREAT DESERT.
The Sheikh promised me a letter for the Sultan of
Aheer, and to send a slave of his own with me as far as
Aheer. Jabour did not positively assert that Tripoli
belonged to the English, and contented himself with
asking, " If Tripoli were English ?" I explained fully to
the Sheikh, as he is a man of a fine ingenuous mind, that
Asker AU was recalled by the Sultan of Stamboul on
the representations of the British Consul of Tripoli, the
Pasha being a blood-thirsty tyrant, the enemy of the
Christians as weU as the Mussulmans; and that the
Consul has influence in Tripoli, but Tripoli belongs to the
Sultan. The Ghadamsee interpreter observed, " The
English and the Mussulmans are the same." "Certainly,"
I replied, " without the English the French would soon
eat up the Sultan of the West (Morocco), and the Rus
sians the Sultan of the East (Turkey)." " That's good,"
observed Jabour ; " Still, we in The Desert, fear neither
Christians nor Sultan. And if the EngUsh require our
assistance they can have it. Tell this on your return to
your Sultan." This amiable prince then took leave. If
there be a desert aristocract of gentle blood, it is un
questionably Jabour. A shoal of low Touaricks came to
me afterwards, in the Sheikh's name, to beg. I saw
through the ruse, and they were savage in being obliged
to go off empty-handed. Some Touarick ladies now
tried to squeeze in as the door was opened, and, in spite
of the " bago, bago," got up stairs to the terrace. They
had all the tips of their noses, the round of the chins,
and the bones of their cheeks, blackened. At first I
could not make out how it was. It was explained that
the dye of the Soudan cottons, which they wore, pro
duced this blacky tipping. These cottons begrime their

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 53
wearers sadly, the colour is not fast, the indigo being
ill prepared. Some of the blue cottons are highly
glazed. Men and women wear them, being cheap and
light clothing for the summer.
26^A. — Relieved from pain, but getting very thin,
although my habits are now what are called sedentary.
I rarely sit up when at home, mostly reclining. So far
I am become a bond fide Saharan habitant. Kandarka
caUed again to-day at my request. He professed to be
very uncivil or very serious, and asked a large sum for
conducting me to Soudan, like a real mau of business, quite
inconsistent with the present state of my finances. He asks
no less than 150 dollars in goods, including camels for rid
ing, and other attentions. This is more than he gets from
all the merchants put together, in fact, nearly twice as
much. But if it be necessary to strike the bargain, I'm
sure he wiU come down to fifty. My health is breaking
down very fast, and I have great hesitation on the sub
ject of a farther advance into the interior. I have been
thinking of continuing my tour to Egypt and Syria, and
Constantinople, visiting aU the slave-marts of the Medi
terranean. Had a visit from Zalea, and found him the
same man as en route. But he is always a little wild and
playful. He is against my proceeding farther, and tells
me to get off on my return before Shafou comes, that the
Touaricks may not get aU the money I have. I am at
present, however, so satisfied with the Touaricks, that I
would give them a camel-load of dollars if I had them.
Shafou is still occupied in the neighbouring districts, en-
roUing troops for the Shanbah expedition. The Ben-
gazi merchant persuades me to accompany him. From
Ghat to the first oasis of Fezzan, there are 10 days;

54 THE GREAT DESERT.
from thence to Sockna, 10; from Sockna to Augelah,
10; thence to Seewah, 14 days more; and thence to
Alexandria, 14 more days
Weather is duU to-day, but not very cold. All the
Arabs and people of Ghadames abuse Ghat: it is
assuredly a sufficiently wretched place. However, the
scenery around is much more lively and picturesque than
that of Ghadames. A great quantity of elephants' teeth
arrived yesterday (not to be sold here), on their way to
Ghadames. Also some Soudanic sheep for this market,
seUing as low as three doUars each. Had a visit from
the eldest son of the Governor, and his nephew the
Medina Shereef. This Shereef must be carefuUy dis
tinguished from the little mad-cap impostor of Mourzuk
mentioned before. I have not found so gentlemanly a
person in aU Ghat and Ghadames. He was born in
Medina, but brought up here : he is the son of the
Governor's sister, who is married a second time to the
Sheikh Khanouhen, heir-apparent to the throne. The
Shereef's mother is not a Touarick woman, and the
Sheikh has another wife of Touarick extraction in the
districts. Of course Khanouhen is strongly recommended
to me by his son-in-law. " Khanouhen," he says, " has
aU the wisdom and eloquence of the country in his head
and heart. Shafou is an old man, and talks Uttle.
Whatever Khanouhen plans, Shafou approves ; whatever
Khanouhen says in words, Shafou orders to be done."
Had a visit from a Touatee, just arrived. He recom
mended me to go to Timbuctoo, and fear nothing.
" What have the Touaricks of Ghat done to you, that
you are afraid to visit the Touaricks of my country and
Timbuctoo ?" he added. Now came in two Soudanese

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 55
merchants. One of them said, " Say ' There is but one
God,' &c." I answered " This is prohibited to us," which
made them laugh out. They have not that fierce bigotry
of the north-coast merchants. Visited Haj Ibrahim. He
says, " Wait for me till next year, and we'U both go to
gether to Soudan. I'll protect you." Certainly this
Moor has hitherto shown himself extremely friendly to
me. Khanouhen came in this evening from the country.

£>6

CHAPTER XVIII.
RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Arrival of the Sultan Shafou. — Visit to His Highness.— Visit to
Hateetah ; his jealousy of the Sultan and other Sheikhs. — Visit
from the People of the Oasis of Berkat. — Said sobbing and
sulking. — A Night-School in The Desert. — Use of Sand instead
of Paper, Pens, and Ink. — Mode of Touarghee succession to the
Throne. — Women hereditary possessors of Household Property.
— Negresses are Dramatic Performers. — Description of the
Oasis of Ghat; Houses, Architecture, Gardens, and Surrounding
Country. — Visit from the Heir-Apparent, Khanouhen. — Genial
softness of the Weather. — Specimen of Retail Trade. — Case of
administering Justice by the Sultan. — Early habit of Touarghee
begging. — The Bou-ffabeeba, or Saharan Singing Sparrows. —
Alarm of Female Hucksters at The Christian.
27th.— A fine morning. Feel better in health. The
Touarghee Sultan, Mohammed Shafou Ben Seed, came
in this morning from the country districts. His High
ness is Sultan of aU the Ghat Touaricks, or those
of Azgher. Arrived to-day another portion of the Soudan
ghafalah. There was a false report this morning of the
appearance of the Shanbah. Musket firing was heard
in various directions, and the people ran together, some
mounting the tops of the houses to see the fighting
which was supposed to be going on between the
Shanbah and Touaricks. The Arabs, with their match
locks in their hands, ran after their camels to prevent
them from being carried off. The hubbub was most
singular and bewildering. I expected to have to report
skirmish after skirmish, in the capture of Ghat, for the

residence in ghat. 57
benefit of The Leading London Journal. The true cause
at length appeared in the arrival of the Sultan, the
firing of matchlocks heard at a distance being done in
honour of His Highness, and his coming to his town
residence. So it is, in a little place like this a false
report may work wonders in a few minutes. People
are charmed with these rumours : they are their oral
newspaper excitement. In the streets were now heard
"Shafou! Shafou!" "It is Shafou! It is Shafou! It is
Shafou ! " " Shafou has come ! "
As soon as the Sultan arrived, without waiting more
than three or four hours, I determined to visit His
Highness, and carry him a small present. I could not
yet teU how the Sultan would look upon my projected
journey to Soudan. Fortunately I found Essnousee in
the streets, who volunteered his services as interpreter.
Haj Ibrahim was also so good as to embrace the oppor
tunity of going with us. This had a good effect, and
served to give my visit consequence, Haj Ibrahim being
the most respectable foreigner now in Ghat. He was
also a stranger to His Highness as weU as myself.
We found His Highness, at about a quarter of a
mile's distance out of the town, sitting down by himself
alone upon the sand, aside of a Targe hasheesh house, or
hut of date-palm branches. The attendants of His
Highness, who were not very numerous, sat at a consi
derable distance off. In this primitive way and Desert
style he had been receiving various personages ever
since his arrival this morning. As soon as His Highness
saw us approaching him, he bade us welcome by signs
and salutations in the style of the Touaricks, slowly
raising his right arm as high as his shoulders, and turn-

58 THE GREAT DESERT.
ing the palm of the outspread hand to us. Haj
Ibrahim was first introduced, but the Sultan could not
keep off his eyes from me. At last the Sultan made a
sign to Essnousee to speak on my behalf. Essnousee
explained very deliberately and minutely everything
respecting me — where and when he saw me at Tripoli,
how I went to Ghadames, came here from that place,
and what were my intentions in proposing to go to
Soudan. The Sultan then turned to me, and said,
" Go, Christian, wherever you please : in my country fear
nothing — go where everybody else goes." After this I
presented my Uttle backsheesh to His Highness, consist
ing of a smaU carpet-rug to sit or recline upon, a
zamailah or turban, and a shumlah or sash, large and
full, and scarlet, like the Spaniards wear. On giving the
servant of His Highness the present, (which was covered,
and not exposed before His Highness, as a matter of
delicacy,) I said, through Essnousee, " This present is
from me, and not from my Sultan, nor the Consul at
Tripoli, nor any persons in my country ; it is extremely
smaU, and scarcely worth accepting. But, probably, if
your Highness should protect Englishmen through your
country, and allow EngUsh merchants to come and
traffic in Ghat, a greater and richer present wiU be sent
to you hereafter." His Highness replied, "Thank you;
I'm an old man now, and want but little : we have a
little bread, and milk of the nagah (she-camel), and for
which we praise God. Don't fear our people — no one
shall hurt you." Indeed, I saw the old gentleman was
thankful for any trifle. My little backsheesh was,
perhaps, of the value of ten doUars, and was the largest
present I had yet made. I then asked His Highness

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 59
whether he would write a letter for me to the Sultan of
Aheer, and one to the Queen of England, stating that
he would give protection to aU British subjects passing
through The Touarghee Desert? The Sultan replied,
" AU that you want I wiU do for you, please God." I
determined to risk a word on Desert politics. I said,
" Your Highness must exterminate the Shanbah, for they
are a band of robbers." The Sultan replied, "Please
God we wiU ; we are now preparing the camels to go
out against them." Essnousee and Haj Ibrahim consi
dered the words of the Sultan delivered in the most
friendly spirit. Shafou was dressed very plainly and
very dirtily; and yet there sat upon his aged counte
nance (for he was fuU seventy years of age) a most
venerable expression of dignity. His Highness wore a
dark-blue cotton frock of Soudanic manufacture, and
black-blue trowsers of the same kind of cotton. On his
head was a red cap, around which was folded in very
large folds a white turban. He had, like all Touaricks,
a dagger suspended under the left arm, but no other
weapon near him, or on his person. By his side, on the
sand, lay a huge stick with which he walks, instead of
the lance. His mouth and chin were covered with a
thin blue cotton wrapper, a portion of the litham.
Around his neck were suspended a few amulets, sewn up
in red leathern bags. His Highness was without shoes,
and his legs were quite bare ; his feet lay half-buried in
the sand. He spoke very slow and under tone, scarcely
audible, and at times the conversation was interrupted
by the sUence of the dead. AU his deportment was Uke
that of a Sultan of these wUds; and the ancient Sheikh
felt all the consciousness of his power. The Desert

60 THE GREAT DESERT.
Genii hedge him in around. The Sultan is profoundly
respected by aU; and Louis-Philippe is a ginger
bread Sovereign compared with Shafou of The Great
Desert. But the reader would not be prepared to find His
Highness smoking his pipe during our interview, and
striking a light himself, the materials for which he car
ried in a large leathern bag, or pouch, slung on his
left arm, like all the Touaricks. On taking leave, we
called the servant of the Sultan after us, and Haj
Ibrahim gave into his hands a small present for the
Sultan of the value of a couple of dollars, so that I
maintain my position of also giving the best presents, in
the case of the Sultan. To me it was a most pleasant
and refreshing interview, after the serio-comic affair of
Ouweek. I asked Haj Ibrahim what Shafou said to
him. The Sultan simply told the merchant, " You may
go to every part of the country now in safety: to
Touat, to Aheer, wherever you will — don't be afraid of
the Touaricks." I went home with the Haj, and spent
the evening with him. The merchant determines to
send eight camels of goods to Soudan. He has not sold
a fourth of what he brought to this mart. A great part
of the slaves, elephants' teeth, and senna which daily
arrive here, are not for sale in Ghat, but are sent direct
from Soudan to Tripoli by the correspondents of the
Ghadamsee merchants at Kanou. The Ghat Souk is
nearly closed, all the slaves are sold, and some of the
people are thinking about returning.
28th. — Rose early and better in health. Pleased with
the prospect of stiU seeing my journey to Soudan com
pleted. Weather this morning very dull, sky overcast,

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 61
a few drops of rain faUing. Early Sheikh Hateetah sent
for me. Went and found the Consul of the English
better in health. He shewed me his scarlet burnouse and
gold-braided coat, given him by our Government. But
as his object in calling me was only to express his jea
lousy of the other Sheikhs, and of the Sultan himself,
and to beg another present, I was by no means pleased
with my visit. He evidently wished me to give him all
the presents as the " Friend" of the English. But this
would have been both unjust and suicidal policy on my
part. I could not have considered myself safe, at any
rate, respected or esteemed, unless I had given a present
to aU the principal personages in Ghat and the sur
rounding districts. Hateetah besides annoyed me by
saying the route of Aheer was fuU of bandits, against
the concurrent testimony of aU the merchants. He wishes
me to take the route of Bornou, which would entirely
defeat the object I have in view, of visiting new countries.
However, by being firm with him, I got him to promise
to procure for me a letter and servant from Shafou to go
on to Aheer. I am to caU again in a few days, and he
is to show me his seal of office, done by the Consul-
General of Tripoli. Hateetah is a man of more than
sixty years, very taU, thin and attenuated, of extremely
feeble frame. He is stiU labouring under fever, and
does not leave his paUet. To-day, however, he got quite
energetic on the subject of the presents, having heard
what a fine present the Sultan had received from me.
He begged me not to give a present to the Oulad
("people" or "foUowers") of Shafou, meaning thereby
Khanouhen. On my return, I found my door thronged with visitors

62 THE GREAT DESERT.
from Berkat, the vUlage three miles distant, en route of
Soudan. They had been waiting an hour or two for my
return. At first I repulsed them, but hearing afterwards
they had brought a young lad unwell, I let them in.
The lad was covered with hard lumps, which had grown
or festered under his skin, about the size of a nut. He
had been so for a year. I prescribed a bath and
opening medicine (senna, which they can get easUy), but
I question if they try either. I recommended them to
send him to Tripoli, to the English doctor there, but they
heard of the proposal with horror. None of these Berkat
people have ever visited Tripoli. The Turks are their
bugbear. They were not extremely friendly ; rude and
ignorant viUagers as they were, they could not understand
why I wanted to go to Soudan. I observed they were
all well clothed and seemed to live in Saharan affluence.
The term Berkat, cijSym, signifies " a lake" or " lagoon,"
and probably the site of the oasis is the dry bottom of
what was formerly a lagoon. The Berkat oasis is larger
in gardens, and more fertile than Ghat, but possesses the
same essential features. It has no Souk, and excites no
attention from strangers visiting Ghat. The inhabitants
are Saharan Moors, and some five or six hundred in
number. Had a very friendly visit from Salah, eldest
son of Haj Mansour, of Ghadames. He says justly
Kandarka and other camel-drivers exaggerate the dan
gers of the routes for their own private ends, to get more
money out of me. Of the Touaricks and Ouweek, he
says, " They have no knowledge, they are buUocks." He
also added, "I have been reprimanding Ouweek for his
bad conduct to you; I told him I would not give him
my usual backsheesh, on account of his ill-treating you."

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 63
I am much bothered with Said. Like his master he
is continuaUy wavering, whether he shaU return to Gha
dames with the return caravan, or proceed with me. I
leave him to his own choice and reflections, teUing him
I will secure his freedom by writing to Sheikh Makouran.
I can't but pity him. I find him frequently in tears, or
sobbing aloud, afraid the Touaricks wiU again make him
a slave. In the streets, I pass nearly every evening a Night-
School, where there is a crowd of children aU cooped up
together in a smaU room, humming, spouting, and scream
ing simultaneously their lessons of the Koran, in the
manner of some of our infant schools. This mode of
simultaneously repeating a lesson has prevailed from time
immemorial in the schools of North Africa, and I ima
gine, in The East Ukewise, and though it may be new in
England or Europe, it is old in Asia and Africa. But I
never saw before a Night-School in Barbary, and look
upon this Saharan specimen of scholastic discipline as a
novelty. It is probable, in this way, every male child of
Ghat, as in Ghadames, is taught to read and write. The
pride of the Ghadamseeah is, that aU their children read
and write. The whole population can read and write the
Koran. This Saharan fact of the barbarians of The
Desert suggests painful reflections to honest-minded Eng
lishmen. We may boast of our liberties, our Magna
Charta, our independence of character, our commerce,
our wealth, the extent of the world which Providence
(too good to us) has committed to our care. But after
all we cannot boast of what the barbarians of The
Desert boast. We cannot, dare not, assert, that every
male child of our population can read the Book which

64 THE GREAT DESERT.
we call the Revelation of God! This deplorable, but
undeniable fact, ought to throw suspicion upon our
religious motives, as weU as our pretensions to the love
and maintenance of liberty, — unless it be argued, that our
liberty is founded on our want of education, and we are
free men because the half of our population cannot sign
their own name ! A Minister of the Crown (Earl Grey),
in a late, and the last discussion of the House of Lords
(of the old Parliament), had the hardihood, the intre
pidity, to assert, that, " We (Englishmen) were the least
educated people of Europe, nay, that we were behind the
savages of New Zealand !" But this astounding decla
ration of the Minister produced no explosion of indigna
tion, not a single expression of regret, not a hum or
murmur of disapprobation from the Spiritual or Tem
poral Lords, to whom the words of shame and censure
were addressed. And, as the Lords, so the Commons, so
aU classes of our society. The enunciation, the reitera
tion of this most extraordinary, most damning stigma,
on our national character, does not even tinge with the
most imperceptible hue of shame the national counte
nance. What is the cause of all this ? It is the pro
found, incurable, and inextirpable bigotry of the English
people, to which they will not hesitate to sacrifice the
national honour, the public happiness, their own liberties,
and their own consciences  If measures for
education are proposed by Imperial Government, our
people one and all will neither allow them to be adopted,
nor wiU they themselves adopt measures for education.
With the diverse sections of our society, no education is
education unless it be based upon their own peculiar
views and principles. In this way, the curse and

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 65
opprobrium of ignorance are maintained in our own
country. I observe that the little urchins of this Saharan
School use sand in their first efforts to write. As sand
abounds everywhere in the populated oases of Sahara,
and the people are poor and cannot afford to buy much
paper, it is constantly employed instead of paper, pens,
and ink, in casting up accounts. I see aU the Soudanese
merchants casting up their accounts of barter and bar
gains in this way. Mostly the fore-finger is employed,
and in careless conversation a long stick or spear is used
to scratch the sand. But if the subject is serious, the
speaker very distinctly marks the stops of his discourse,
or Ulustrates it with flourishes, squares, and circles on
the sand, or dust of the streets, smoothing over the sand
when he has finished. There is a little bit of supersti
tion attached to this smoothing over the sand. The
Moors always tell me when I write in this way to smooth
aU over and never forget it. They invariably do so
themselves, and never leave a mark, or stroke, or dot of
the finger on the sand after they have done speaking or
writing. I was surprised to hear of the peculiar mode of the
Touarghee succession for Sultans or reigning royal
Sheikhs. It is the son of the Sister of the Sultan who
succeeds to the throne amongst all the Touaricks. I
have learnt since that the same custom prevaUs amongst
the Moorish tribes of the banks of the Senegal. Batouta
also mentions this singular custom as prevaUing amongst
the Berber people of Twalaten, ,^jiS\yi}, in Western
Sahara, in these words : — " The people call themselves
VOL. II. E

66 THE GREAT DESERT.
after the name of their maternal* uncles ; it is not the
sons of the fathers who inherit, but the nephews, sons
of the sister of the father." He adds : — I have never
met with this usage before, except amongst the infidels
of Malabar (in India)." It would appear, these rude
children of The Desert have not sufficient confidence in
the succession of father and son, and think women should
not be put to so severe a test in the propagation of a
race of pure blood. Speaking to a Touarghee about it,
he said : — " How do we know, if the son of the Sultan
be his son ? May he not be the son of a slave ? Who
can tell ? But when our young Sultan is born from the
sister of the Sultan, then we know he is of the same
blood as the Sultan." There is besides another anomaly
of the social system in the town of Ghat. Women here
are the hereditary possessors and not men. The law of
primogeniture is on the female side. The greater part
of the houses of the town of Ghat, although the popula
tion is chiefly Moorish, belong to women, bequeathed to
them or given them on the day of thier marriage by
friends or relatives. These two cases of anomaly are
more favourable to womankind than what we mostly

* Amongst the Servians the mother's brother was " a very im
portant personage." Ranke says : — " Amongst the early Germans,
families were held together by a peculiar preference on the mother's
side; the mother's brother being, according to ancient custom, a
very important personage. In the Sclavonic-Servian tribe, there
prevails, to a greater extent, a strong and lively feeling of brotherly
and sisterly affection; the brother is proud of having a sister; the
sister swears by the name of her brother." — (See Mrs. Alexander
Kerr's admirable translation of Ranke's Servian History, &c, chap.
iv.,p. 56.)

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 67
find in Mahometan countries. I may not now scruple to
teU the Touaricks, that the Sovereign of England is a
female, for fear of giving them offence. It is a curious
fact, and may here be added, that the son rarely goes,
or travels, with the father, but always is pinned to his
mother's knee, or trudges along at her side ; at last, he
loses aU affection for his father, and concentrates his filial
love on his mother. This alienation of the son from the
father, is increased by the custom of the son inheriting
nothing from his father, but aU through his mother.
29th. — A fine morning; the sun high in the heavens
scatters Ught and colour over all the Desert scene. In
tolerably good spirits, but utterly at a loss which route
I shaU take. Visited Hateetah ; he did not beg or annoy
me to-day, but told me to resolve upon my route. Pre
scribed him some medicine, as also for another person,
who had the iU manners to say, " God has made the
infidels to be doctors for the Faithful." Yesterday even
ing, the slaves of Haj Ibrahim (about fifty) danced and
sang and forgot their slavery. One young woman acted
various grotesque characters, and, amongst the rest,
Boree, " The DevU." When a Negro sulks, or is moody,
he is said to be possessed, or to have got in him Boree,
which agrees pretty weU with our "Blue-devils." In these
evening pastimes they fancy themselves in the wild woods
of their native homes, and dance and sing to the rude
notes of their ruder instruments of music, and feel as if
free and like other mortals.
Went out this morning to have a commanding view of
the oasis. Was accompanied by the uncle of Jabour,
who took hold of my hand, and puUed me on, when we
mounted the neighbouring piece of rock which com-
F 2

68 THE GREAT DESERT.
mands the oasis and scenery around. From this block
of mountain, north of the city, we had a beautiful view of
the town, the oasis, and adjoining palms, and aU the
.Desert of the Valley of Ghat. To the south we saw the
date-palms of Berkat. To the east, is the black range
of mountains, throwing sombre shadows upon the scat
tered sand-hiUs, which lie like shining heaps of silver at
their base. This range is higher than the average
height of Saharan mountains. The Touaricks say the
Genii buUt these mountains, to protect them (the Toua
ricks) and their posterity from the inroads of the Turks,
and Gog and Magog, from the east. " These are," say
they, "our eastern doors (barriers)." Scarcely any
breaks or gorges are found in this chain. Beyond the
suburb, begirt with sand groups, stands the palace of
the Governor, which from hence looks like a line of for
tifications, with a tower or two rising above its battle
ments. There reigns, king and priest, Haj Ahmed, the
lord of aU he surveys. Sahara around has a varied
aspect of trees and plain, sand and mountains. The
contrasts are striking, and spite the gloom of Wareerat
range, it is a bright desert scene. The town is small,
and the gardens are also extremely Umited ; the oasis
is comprehended within a circle of not more than three
or four miles. The palms are dwarfish, and half of
them do not bear fruit, and their dates are of the most
ordinary kind. A sufficient proof that the date-palm is
not dependent on the quality of its water, otherwise the
palm of Ghat should be the finest and its fruit the most
deUcious of The Sahara. On the contrary, in some of
the oases of Fezzan, where the water is literally salt, the
palm is a noble towering tree, catching the breathings of

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 69
highest heaven, and casting down most luscious fruit.
Houses in Ghat have but a wretched appearance, and
are as wretched within as without. They are not white
washed, or clean and bright and shining as Moorish houses
of the coast, and though the city is surrounded with
stones, and lime is procurable, they are nearly aU con
structed of sun-dried bricks and mud. A few days of
incessant rain would wash many of them down. The
wood of construction is, of course, that of the palm.
The Desert furnishes no other available buUding wood.
Only one mosque tower deserves the name of minaret.
Besides, there is a huge buUding higher than the rest,
but which is inhabited as other houses. The town is
walled in with waUs not more than ten feet high, but its
six gates are miserably weak, and never so closed as to
prevent their being opened in the night. The whole
town is built on a hill, a portion of the blocks of rock
from which we view it. This little place has one large
square, caUed Esh-Shelly — ^XiJ! — the general rendez
vous of business and gossip, and where Shafou and aU
the subordinate Sheikhs administer justice. Here is held
the Souk, where everything important is done. But the
town-councUs and state-councils of the Sheikhs are gene
raUy held in the open air. Two or three palms within
the town cast a grateful shadow, and make an angle of
the streets picturesque, but no other trees are seen. On
the south, without the waUs, is a suburb of some fifty
mud and stone houses. There are also scattered over
the sand, on the west, a hundred or more of hasheesh
huts, made of straw and palm-branches. In the gar
dens, besides the palms, a little wheat, barley, and

70 THE GREAT DESERT.

b

ghusub is cultivated. There are some fruit-trees, but no
vines. Of water there are several large pits, and some
warm springs, but nothing approaching to the hot boiling
spring of Ghadames. There is, however, one large re
servoir, partly surrounded with palm-trees, and the
banks covered with rushes, except where the people go
to draw. The whole of this is enclosed within waUs.
Water apparently oozes from a great extent of surface.
The water itself is of the first quaUty, and is said not
to produce bUe or fever. The irrigation is the same in
principle as that of Ghadames, but slaves are employed
to draw up the water, whilst animals are used in Fezzan,
and in Ghadames the water runs itself into the gardens.
The places for burying the dead around the Saharan
towns occupy more space than the abodes of the living.
This is not surprising, when we reflect that every new
grave occupies a new piece of ground, and many years
elapse before the old grave is opened to place in it a fresh
body. I saw but one grave whitewashed; it was that of
a Marabout, the only " whitewashed sepulchre," and,
strange enough, it is to denote superior priestly sanctity
as in New Testament times amongst the Jews. The rest
were small stones heaped up in the shape of a grave, a
large piece of stone being placed at the head.
The style of architecture, both here and in Ghadames,
is the same, except that of Ghadames is neater and more
fantasticaUy elaborated. Most of the waUs are sur
mounted with a mud-plaster work, and the tops and
terraces of the houses are surmounted with the same
style of material, and generaUy very irregularly done, as
seen in the annexed diagram. The cupboards cut out or
excavated in the walls are of the shape of squares or

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 71
triangles, and the windows sometimes of the same shape,
but occasionaUy varying as seen in the diagram. All the
doors and beams of the houses, as before mentioned, are
of the date-palm wood. The doors are the usual long
squares, but some of them so low that you are obliged to
stoop to enter through them. This is very troublesome
to the Touaricks, who always carry their long spears
with them, as we our walking-sticks. I have noticed
here in The Sahara, as weU as on the coast of Barbary,
very ingenious wooden lock-and-keys. The key is a
piece of wood six or eight inches long, and two broad,
covered at one end with little pegs. The lock is fitted
to these pegs by little holes. On the arrangement and
fitting of these pegs and holes depend the secrecy and
security of the lock. It is no easy matter at times to
unlock these locks, and requires a very practised hand.
The floors are covered with a thick layer of sand, even
many of the sleeping rooms, which sand is clean or dirty
according to the quality and cleanliness of the occupant.

A AAA A AAA
a. Jw\ A A ir^Si

72 THE GREAT DESERT.
According to my friend Mr. Colli, the original mean
ing of the term Ghat is Sun or God, in the Lybio-
Egyptian language. The Arabic is clM, Ghat, but as
people fancy, like the French, they hear in the pronun
ciation of the l in Ghat the R, so our former tourists
have sometimes written the name of the town Ghrat,
and others Ghraat. The oasis of Ghat is situated in
24° 58' north lat., and 11° 15' east longitude.
This afternoon received a visit from Khanouhen and
his brother, accompanied by Essnousee. This visit was
perhaps the most friendly of all which I have received
from the Touaricks. For evil or for good, it was, at the
time, the preponderating motive for attempting the tour
to Soudan. I felt more confidence in the Touaricks.
Khanouhen is a man advanced in life, full fifty years of
age. He has hard but intelligent features. Like aU the
Sheikhs, he is taU and of powerful muscular frame. His
conversation consisted of a few words, but full of pride
and courage, and also to the point. He said : — " I do
not expect presents from a stranger who has come so far
to claim my hospitality. I can give you assistance
without presents. Cannot the man, who is to succeed
Shafou, be generous without bribes ? It is not generosity
to render you assistance if you load me with presents.
The heir of the Touarick Sultan receives no presents : he
asks for none. We wish not to terrify strangers — even
those who do not beheve in Mahomet — by acts of extor
tion and plunder. I will write you a letter to the
Sultan of Aheer, so shall Shafou, so shaU Hateetah.
The Sultan of Aheer must respect our letters. When he
does not, we make reprisals on his people. I am now
busy. I am going to exterminate the Shanbah. Our

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 73
maharees wiU soon overtake the robbers; not one of
them shaU escape. We scorn the assistance of the
Turks. We are strong enough by ourselves. We want
no letters, no advice, no arms, no horses, no guns, from
the Pasha of TripoU. AU The Desert is ours ; wherever
you go you find traces of our power. Be happy here,
fear nothing ; for if you fear us, you lose our confidence,
and become our enemy." I have picked out the sense
and many of the exact expressions of this harangue, and
the reader wiU see that the Shereef, his son-in-law, did
not exaggerate his sense and fierce eloquence. Kha
nouhen, indeed, is caUed " The man of speech," ^ StfJl A.^
—by the merchants. The Sheikh was superbly dressed
in the first style of the Touaricks, unlike his venerable
uncle the Sultan. He wore a scarlet gold-braided
coat, an immense red turban, and a huge black litham,
covering the upper and lower part of his face, and nearly
aU his features. His arms were a dagger, a broadsword,
and a ponderous bright iron spear, which on entering my
apartment the Sheikh was obliged to leave outside.
Weather to-day is as soft and genial as Italy. The
sky is overcast this evening, and rain threatens. Yes
terday I saw it lighten for the first time in The Sahara.
Flies live throughout winter here, and there is now
enough of them to give annoyance. An article which I
purchased to-day wiU give some idea of the retaU trade
in Ghat. This was a barracan, of light and fine quality,
which cost me three Spanish dollars. In Tripoli, about
forty days' journey from this, it cost two mahboubs,
about a doUar and three-quarters. But I purchased it
for money ; had it been exchanged for goods or slaves, it
would have been charged four doUars. This is nearly

74 THE GREAT DESERT.
cent, per cent, profit. Spent the evening with Haj
Ibrahim. Shafou had returned the merchant's visit, and
dined with him. The venerable Sheikh does not stand
upon etiquette. An affair came off to-day, which admi
rably and most characteristicaUy iUustrates the mode of
administering justice in Ghat. Mustapha, the young
merchant of Tripoli, quarreUed with one of his Arabs, and
came to blows. Shafou chanced to pass by at the time.
His Highness immediately dispatched a servant to bring
the pugilists before him. Shafou then harangued them
and the bystanders, in this spirited manner : — "You see
these men come here to disturb our country. What
ungrateful wretches they are ! ShaU I suffer this ?
Don't I protect them ? don't I aUow them to gain money
at our Souk? They return with goods and innumer
able slaves to Tripoli. But they laugh at me and in
sult me to my face, and trample upon our hospitality
(addressing a Sheikh). Do you think, (turning to the
combatants,) there is no authority or justice in this
place ? I'll let you know to the contrary. What do
you think The Christian wUl say, if he comes and sees
this ? Now, you rascals, pay me each of you ten dol
lars." This was foUowed by a violent intercession on
their behalf by the foreign merchants, some blaming one
and some the other. His Highness was obUged to com
promise the matter, accepting of a doUar from each. It
is probable His Highness was more anxious to inflict the
penalty than quell the tumult ; but I was quite unpre
pared for such an eloquent address from the ancient
patriarch of the country. Considering the great num
ber of strangers, there are very few quarrels. " Ghat," as
was said before I came, "is a country of peace." Were

RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 75
a bazaar of this sort held in Europe (for example an
English fair), there would be a row every day, and
every hour of the day. Nevertheless, this does not pre
vent us from caUing these Saharan people barbarians.
30th. — Very mild weather this morning, but overcast
as if rain would soon fall. I have not been long enough
in The Desert to read the weather signs, or become
weather-wise. Keep the door shut, to prevent an influx
of visitors. Now and then a few people get in. Whilst
eating my supper this evening, I was surprised at the
appearance of two little ragged boys. I asked what
they wanted, they returned, " Eat, eat, we want to eat."
I went out to see them, for they stood on the terrace in
the dark. Here I found one of the audacious urchins
flourishing a spear ten times as big as himself, menacing
me with it. I pushed the Uttle scoundrels down stairs
into the street. I could not however help remarking
upon their audacity, and the early infant habits of
Touarghee "begging by force." The Ghadamsee people
have always been the fair game of the Touaricks. Ask
ing one day a Ghadamsee, "What occupation the Toua
ricks followed?" he replied indignantly, " Beg, beg, beg,
this is their trade ! When they get money, they bury
it, and beg, beg, beg !" This perhaps, is overstated, stUl
it is curious to witness this first lesson of " we want to
eat," repeated by chUdren of very tender age, with a tone
of command and insolence. Khanouhen does not send for
his present, and I hear, he will not receive presents. I
shaU have the more to give away at Aheer.
31st. — Fine morning. I am surprised at my simpU-
city ; but, apparently, the only thing which I enjoy with
pure feelings, is the song of the little birds, the boo-

76 THE GREAT DESERT.
habeeba, which frequent my terrace and the house-top, as
sparrows famUiarly in England. With these I feel I can
hold free converse and interchange an unadulterated
sympathy. The innocent little creatures remind me of
my days of chUdhood, when I reveUed in the woods and
corn-fields of Lincolnshire, listening to the song of birds
in early fresh spring morn, or bright summer day. Here
was the tender chord of childhood associations touched,
and no wonder that memory should come in to the aid
of sympathy in these unsympathizing deserts. How
little at times contents the heart, and fills the aching
vacuum of the mind ! In this we cannot fail to see an
arrangement of infinite wisdom. If only great things
could satisfy the mind of man, how prodigiously our
miseries would be increased, for how few are the things
deserving to be called great ! Called this morning on
Hateetah. Put him in a better humour, by teUing him
I would give him an extra present. On returning, stop
ped at a staU, where were exposed for sale, onions, trona,
dates, and other things. The women immediately caught
alarm, afraid I was going to throw a glance of "the evU
eye" on their little property. They cried out, " There
is one God, and Mahomet is the prophet of God !" I
made off quick enough from this unseemly uproar. Saw
afterwards the Governor. CaUed to ask him to aUow
his servants to make me some cuscasou, which request
his ExceUency granted immediately. He said : — " In
travelling to Soudan adopt the dress of the Ghadamsee
merchants, and let your beard grow." The Governor
refuses to say anything of Kandarka. Probably they
have quarrelled. Our merchants give the Tibboos a bad
character, and the caravans are afraid of them.

77

CHAPTER XIX.
ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN.
Violent Act of a Touarick on Slaves. — Visit to the Princess Lilla
Fatima. — Mode of grinding Corn. — Dilatoriness of Commercial
Transactions. — Grandees of Ghat Town. — Khanouhen refuses
his Present. — Rumours of the Conquest of Algeria spread
throughout Africa. — Small Breed of Animals in Sahara. — Queer
circumstance of unearthly Voices. — The Cold becomes intense. —
Arrival of Sheikh Berka. — Hateetah in good Humour. — My
Targhee friend, Sidi Omer. — Visit from Kandarka; his Charac
ter. — Visit to the aged Berka, and find the Giant. — Hateetah's
Political Gossips. — At a loss which Route to take, and how to
proceed. — Superstitions connected with the Butcher. — Zeal of
an old Hag against The Christian. — Out of Humour. — Reported
departure of Caravans. — Jabour calls with a Patient. — Visit
Bel Kasem, and find Khanouhen. — Political Factions of Azgher
Touaricks. — Giants in The Desert. — Fanciful analogies of origin
of Peoples. — Hierarchy of the Sheikhs. — Population, Arms,
and Military Forces of the Ghat Touaricks. — The Mahry or
Maharee. — Camels named from their Fleetness. • — Touarghee
Court of Justice — Amphitheatrical style of Touaricks loung
ing. — Amount of Customs-Dues paid by Ghat Traders. — Free
Trade in Sahara.
1st January, 1846. — Yesterday I saw two slaves,
both of whom had gashes on their arms and legs, the
blood flowing from one poor fellow profusely. I asked,
" Who has done this ?"
The Slaves.—" A Touarghee."
" What for ?" I continued.
The Slaves.—" Nothing."
I found afterwards the slaves were doing some work in
the gardens which the Touarghee thought should have
been given to him. Touaricks seldom get into passion,

78 THE GREAT DESERT.
but when the blood boUs the dagger is immediately had
recourse to for the arrangement of their quarrels. The
Touaricks have many slaves, but male slaves, for they
rarely mix their blood with the negro race. CaUed upon
Hateetah with his extra present of four doUars' value.
He then began in an excited humour, " To-morrow come
to me, Shafou will be here. We must arrange to send a
maharee to the English Sultan." I suggested his brother
should take it to Tripoli. He sprung up from his bed
with joy, " Yes, good, Shafou and I wiU arrange every
thing. Nobody else must come here but you. It must
be all done in secret." Hateetah is frightened of Kha
nouhen, and knows the Sultan has no wiU of his own
unless kept apart from that powerful prince. Touaricks,
when something is to be had, soon get excited, like the
rest of us.
Afterwards, Said and I carried the present for Kha
nouhen to the prince's house. I spoke to the Governor,
who recommended me, by all means, notwithstanding the
Sheikh's protestations, to send him a handsome present.
I submitted to the Governor's opinion. Khanouhen
resides in some apartments of the Governor's palace ; this
is the prince's town residence. We were conducted to
the apartment of his lady, Lilla Fatima, (the prince
being out,) by her nephews. Her Royal Highness re
ceived us courteously, and the interview was extremely
amusing. I began by apologizing for the top of "the
head of sugar*" being broken off. This made the lady
almost faint. " What !" she protestingly exclaimed,
" Khanouhen is The Great Sultan ! Shafou is compared
* The merchants call these loaves of French beet-root sugar,
Ras, i.e., "head."

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 79
to him Uke the sand ! (taking up a little sand from the
floor and scattering it about with her hands.) My hus
band is lord and master of all the Touaricks. He has
the word ready ; from his lips, aU the Touaricks, all the
merchants, aU the strangers, aU the Christians who come
here, receive their commands and instantly obey them.
And you bring him a loaf of sugar with the head
knocked off ! Oh, this is not pretty ! This is not
right, and I am afraid for your sake." I pleaded inability
to find another loaf this morning, but promised to bring
one to-morrow. Her Royal Highness then begged for
more things. " You see the grunfel (cloves) is not for
me ; it is for Khanouhen's other wife in the country.
Khanouhen will take it all away to her, and leave me
none. Now you must, indeed, bring me some grunfel."
I then recommended her to get it divided, at which she
laughed heartUy, adding, "Ah, Khanouhen likes her in
the country better than me." I then put Her Royal
Highness in a good humour by telling her I would send
her some beads, and if I should return to Tripoli, and
come back to Ghat, I would bring her several presents.
She added, " My husband Khanouhen related to me all
the things which you intended to give him, which you
showed him in your room. Also, you said you would
give him a little lock and key, where is it ?"
This I had not brought with me, thinking the Sheikh
would not accept of such a trifling thing, but I was mis
taken. The Touaricks wiU take everything you offer
them, and not hurt your self-complacency of conferring
a favour by refusal. I must finish with this lady, whose
tongue ran along at a tremendous rate, by adding, that
to show her regard for me, (and for herself likewise,

80 THE GREAT DESERT.
wishing me to return to Tripoli to fetch her some nice
presents,) her Royal Highness gave me this advice :
"For God's sake don't go to Soudan. You'U die there
soon. How can you, a Christian, live there with such a
white skin ? The people who go there are all black, and
have large swoUen faces, (imitating them by blowing out
her cheeks,) they are puffed out and nasty, they become
as ugly as the devil himself." The town wife and lady
of the Sheikh, who is heir-apparent to the Touarghee
throne of Ghat, is herself a comely bustling body, rather
stout, of middle size, about thirty-five years of age ; and
were she dressed in European style, she might, with her
fine black eyes, look as weU as some of our courtly
dames. Her Royal Highness had nothing on but a plain
Soudan black cotton gown, with short sleeves, and a
light woollen barracan, as a sort of shawl, wrapped round
her shoulders, partly covering her head. She had a few
charms and some coloured beads adorning the neck; two
gold bracelets on her wrist, and two thick hoops of
silver round her ancles. A pair of coloured-leather san
dals, made in Soudan, were bound on her feet. She had
no colour, save the usual sallow of Moorish ladies, on her
cheek, but she had no disfigurement of tattooing or other
marks upon her, so common in Saharan beauties.
After the delivery of the present I caUed to see the
Governor, the lady's brother. Told him of my sudden
resolution of abandoning the journey to Soudan the
present year. He highly approved of my resolution,
and seemed relieved of a great embarrassment, for,
although very cautious in what he said, he always con
sidered himself responsible more or less for my safety.
I found his Excellency, but not to my surprise, pur-

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 81
chasing half a dozen slaves, young lads. The Marabout
merchant does not scruple to deal in human beings.
The fact is, his ExceUency scruples at no kind of trade,
by which he may " turn a penny," or " save a penny."
Returned home and wrote to Tripoli; but when the
letter was finished the courier was gone. As often
happens, was glad afterwards the letter did not go.
The mode of grinding corn here, if I may use the
term grinding, is of the most primitive character possible.
It is nothing more or less than rubbing the corn between
two stones, the lower stone being large and smoothed off
on its surface, with an inclined plane, and the upper
stone very smaU compared to the lower. Thus —

A small basket catches the meal as it falls off, or is
pushed off by the person, who holds the upper stone in
his hands, and works it up and down over the surface of
the lower stone. Slaves and women so grind wheat,
barley, ghusub, &c. The meal is scarcely ever winnowed.
In Aheer, a large wooden pestle and mortar are used
for grinding, rather pounding, the corn. The slaves
living with me have a huge wooden pestle and mortar,
and we frequently use it. It requires great tact in the
pounding, otherwise the grain will be continuaUy flying
out. I pounded dates with it, which with a little olive oil,
and roasted grain pounded with them, adding a few grains
of Soudan pepper and a Uttle dry cheese, make very nice
VOL. II. g

82 THE GREAT DESERT.
cake, or it is esteemed nice cake in Ghat. Corn and
ghusub are given to day-labourers intead of money. A
slave will have about a quarter of a peck of barley, or
other grain, given him for a day's work ; occasionally is
added to it, a few dates or a Uttle liquid butter : on this
he must live.
The Souk of Ghat, thank heaven, is nearly closed.
The business, which has been transacted here during the
last month, would have been done in England in one or
two days at most. But our Saharan merchants are de
termined to do everything, be-shwaiah, be-shwaiah, "by
little and by little." The greatest trial of patience for
an European merchant frequenting this Souk would be
the dilatoriness with which commercial transactions are
carried on. A month usuaUy passes before the Souk
opens, and six weeks more are consumed before a mer
chant can or wiU get off, although, as his merchandize
consists chiefly of slaves, his delay is all against himself,
eating him up and his profits. The detaUs of the
traffic are reaUy curious. A slave is heard of one day,
talked about the next, searched out the day after, seen
the next, reflections next day, price fixed next, goods
offered next, squabblings next, bargain upset next, new
disputes next, goods assorted next, final arrangement
next, goods delivered and exchanged next, &c, &c, and
the whole of this melancholy exhibition of a wrangUng
cupidity over the sale of human beings is wound up by
the present of a few parched peas, a few Barbary
almonds, and a little tobacco being given to the
Soudanese merchants, the parties separating with as much
self-complacency, as if they had arranged the mercantUe
affairs of all Africa.

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 83
2nd. — Visited this evening Hateetah. He says, the
Sultan and himself wiU call upon me to-morrow, and
arrange the present which is to be sent to Her Majesty.
Afterwards caUed upon the Governor, to ask him where
Haj AbduUah of Bengazi resided. He leaves for
Fezzan in eight or ten days, and has offered to take me
with him. Called afterwards on Mohammed Kafah.
Found him friendly, but he, assisted by his brother,
began again to annoy me about Mahomet, Paradise, and
heU-fire. I told them, "AU good people, whatever their
creed, must be blessed with the favour of God. Such
was the native sentiment in aU our hearts." Kafah said,
" Many English have turned Mussulmans." I told him
very few, and those mostly good-for-nothing runaways.
He asked why we did not repeat their formula? I told
him we aU did the first part, "There is but one God;"
but the second was prohibited by Christians. I left
them very angry. It is next to impossible to induce
Saharan Mahometans to think favourably of Christianity.
If Christianity ever be propagated here, it must be
through the means of youth and children. The mer
chants Kafah and Tunkana, the Kady Tahar, and Haj
Ahmed the Governor, are the knot of personages and
grandees in this little Saharan town. All the rest are
sorry traders, camel-drivers, and slaves. The Touaricks
are only town visitors, and always retire to their country
districts at the close of the periodic marts.
Weather to-day is excessively cold, the wind blowing
from the north-east. Everybody is frightened at the
wind, and there is no Souk, or market, till very late. I
myself feel the cold extremely, so I am not surprised to
see the Soudanese people all shut up in their houses
G 2

84 THE GREAT DESERT.
crowding over a smoking fire, with the rooms full of
smoke, and nearly suffocating the inmates.
To my great surprise, and contrary to every expecta
tion, Prince Khanouhen has sent his present back in a
great rage, not directly, indeed, to me, but to my neigh
bour Bel-Kasem, saying, with a thousand different
remarks, embelUshed with oaths, " I will not accept of
such a miserable present." Bel Kasem caUs upon me in
a prodigious fright, prostrate under the ire of the in
censed Chieftain, and thus pleads in his favour:
"Khanouhen considers himself a greater Sheikh even
than Shafou the Sultan. He is greatly dissatisfied with
so smaU a present; increase it a little for God's sake —
if you are going to Soudan, you must add something
considerable: if not, just a little to pacify him.
Khanouhen has got a large beUy ; pray satisfy him, for
he can do more for you than any other Sheikh in Ghat.
Indeed, Khanouhen is very angry with you for sending
him such a trifle, and for taking it to his wife. Why did
you take the present to his wife? Now, take my
advice : the Sheikh just dropped out, if you wUl give
him ten doUars in money, he wiU send you the present
of goods back. Send him only the value of the goods in
money, and then he wiU be satisfied. Khanouhen has
got a stomach bigger than that of all the Sheikhs. He
rages against you like fire : satisfy him for Heaven's sake."
I immediately sent back Bel Kasem to find the
Sheikh, and to propose to him to take back the goods,
and give him money instead, or add a little money to
the goods. So then this is the great bravado of
Khanouhen, that he could not soU his fingers by taking
presents! I expect I shall soon be stripped. There

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 85
are, unfortunately, so many Sheikhs, that to give hand
some presents to them aU, would amount to a large sum.
A burning jealousy rankles in their breasts about these
Souk presents. Each wishes to be the greater man, in
order to have more presents, though aU acknowledge
Shafou on the principle of " right divine," or " the right of
the Gemi." There is a controversy going on about Haj
Ibrahim, as to which of the Sheikhs is his friend, or pro
tector, to whom he is to send his little present of tri
bute. Of course I feel extremely annoyed and dis
heartened to have a quarrel of this sort with the
man who has the greatest influence in the country. But
I must hold out, since my situation is not yet desperate.
As something agreeable, in counterpoise, I may mention
that Haj Ibrahim, on visiting the Sultan, found His
Highness recUning on the carpet-rug which I gave him.
His Highness said to the merchant, smning with satisfac
tion, " See, this is what The Christian gave me." It is
the present given to the Sultan which has excited the
jealous indignation of his nephew. But the Sheikhs have
broken through the rule, or I have myself, for Hateetah
only has the right of a present from me.
3rd. — A fine morning, and warmer, but the wind is
stUl high. Over the open desert is a sort of a dirty-red
mist, which people teU me is the sand.
Since Shafou and Hateetah did not come this morn
ing as promised, I caUed on Hateetah to know the
reason. Hateetah had a cold in his eyes, and could not
go out. He added, " Shafou is busy in enroUing troops
for the Shanbah expedition." Hateetah had many visitors
whUst I was there. A Ghatee, to my surprise, asked
me, " How long slaves would be allowed to be sold in

86 THE GREAT DESERT.
Tripoli?" I answered, "Some time yet." He had heard
of my being connected with abolition. Another, just
returned from Soudan, said : — " The people of Soudan
say the Emperor of Morocco has taken possession of
Algeria." I was unprepared for such a rumour in the
heart of Africa, and coming from The South, instead of
going to The South. Of this irregularity the Saharan
newsmongers never think. But the fact is, the conquest
of Algeria by a powerful Christian nation is felt in every
part of The Desert, and reaches the farthest peregrina
tions of the merchants. These wars and rumours of
wars, however, are turned whenever possible in favour
of the Mussulmans. It is probable the attempted in
vasion of Oran by the son of the Emperor, was immedi
ately transformed into the conquest of that province by
desert reports. Another person asked me, " Whether
the Government of Constantinople was that of the Sul
tan himself, or the Christians ?" I observed : — " The
Sultan's Government is very much influenced by Christian
Powers." It has long been the opinion of Barbary
Moors, that the late Sultan Mahmoud was a Greek in
the disguise of a Mussulman ; and the same stigma sticks
to his son. This opinion has acquired strength and
obtained general currency by the European reforms which
the Ottomans have lately introduced into their adminis
tration. Many questions of this kind were asked, and, in
the presence of Hateetah when no insolence would be
tolerated, the people seemed less bigoted. This is the
advantage of having an EngUsh agent, if possible, in
these remote districts, Uke Hateetah. Passing through
the gardens, I saw some horses and buUocks, and was
surprised at their dwarfish dimensions. In Central

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 87
Africa, horses are frequently found of a very dwarfish
breed. The horses were unwhisped and sorry-looking
ponies, with their beUies pinched in. The buUocks cut
an equally queer figure. I have noticed that fowls here
are very smaU, but very lively, catching the fire of a
long Saharan summer. The cocks, which are so many
bantams, are indeed aU fire, attacking you with fierce
ness. Two of the Governor's sons caUed at noon. One
flourished a spear, which he said was "to beat Christians
with." I pushed him out of my apartment down stairs.
With such customers it is the only plan. Another son
caUed a short time afterwards, and asked me to lend him
three doUars, which, of course, I refused. His ExceUency
knows nothing of the tricks of these young gentlemen,
or they would soon be put to rights. Two Arabs, just
returned from Soudan, caUed and said : — " Go to Sou
dan, there's not much sickness, go vid Aheer. The road
vid Bornou is not safe now." This is what I conjectured,
after hearing of the skirmishes and the retreat of the son
of Abd-el-Geleel before the Turks up to Bornou.
Late this evening, on descending to the lower rooms of
the house, which were nearly dark, very Uttle light indeed
penetrating the lower part of the house at any time of
the day, I found the street-door open, and two long huge
figures scarcely visible in the gloom, standing up against
the waU on opposite sides of the large room. I re
treated back a few paces in alarm. The slaves
were aU out, as also Said. Presently I heard two gruff
voices begin from the different parts of the room, in long
and measured and doleful accents. One repeated,
" There is no God but God, and Mahomet is the prophet
of God." The words were repeated very slowly and

88 THE GREAT DESERT.
solemnly, and at considerable intervals, "La - - UTlah - -
eUa - - eUaha - - wa - - Mo-ham-med - - ra-soul - - ellaha!"
The other voice uttered in equally grave and solemn
accents, "Bor-nou-se! Bor-nou-se ! Bor-nou-se!" The
first voice appaUed me, for I did not know but what I
was going to receive the stroke of a dagger through the
deep gloom, in case of my refusing to comply with
repeating the Mahometan formula, or confession of faith ;
but the second voice reassured me, I felt the parties were
begging in the style of Ouweek, " Your money or your
Ufe." I besides recognized at once the parties to be some
low feUows of the Touaricks. The street-door was wide
open, though no one was passing by. As soon as I
could distinguish the import of these strange unearthly
voices, which seemed to rise from the ground like the
mutterings of the wizard, I saw the only course before
me was, as aU the servants were absent, to rush out into
the street. I made a spring right by one of the Toua
ricks, leaving a portion of my slight wooUen bornouse
caught by the hilt of his dagger. I went off to Haj
Ibrahim, but said nothing about it, not knowing correctly
what might have been the intentions of the Touaricks. I
always found the Touaricks displeased, even the Sheikhs,
when any complaints were made against them. Shafou,
himself, always told me, " My people wUl be as kind to
you as I am," and would not hear of complaints. I compre
hended the course before me, and complained of no one.
On my return home I heard nothing, and said nothing. I
took the precaution, however, of not allowing Said to
leave the house when the Governor's slaves were out. I
may mention now, that Ouweek's affair was entirely
smuggled up, and never even aUuded to by the Sultan or

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 89
Khanouhen. The policy of Khanouhen is not to allow
a suspicion of this sort to be whispered abroad. In his
own words : — " We are hospitable, we are men of honour,
of one word, and we cannot commit a dastardly action."
The reader wUl hereafter see the result, so far as my
visit amongst the Touaricks was concerned.
ith. — AwfuUy cold this morning, and can scarcely
bear my miserable apartment, which affords very little
shelter from the wind and cold, having neither door nor
window-holes closed up. No one to be seen in the
streets ; aU " struck upon a heap" with the cold, and shut
up in the houses. At noon, when the sun began to be
felt, went out to see Bel Kasem, and was pleased to hear
that Khanouhen would compound with me, and receive
five or six doUars in cash, instead of the present. The
sugar and cloves, beads and looking-glasses were not to
be returned, but to be left for the Sheikh's ladies. I
felt much relieved ; it was not very pleasant to be in a
contest with the actual Sultan of the country.
Berka, the most aged and venerable Sheikh of the
great famiUes, arrived yesterday from his district, bring
ing with him numerous foUowers.
CaUed upon Hateetah, and gave him an additional
present, the whole now amounting to eight doUars. He
is, of course, in a very good humour, and considers I
have treated him Uke the English Consul. He proposed
to me that I should get him officially appointed British
Consul by the Queen. His pretensions are not exorbi
tant ; he would be contented with fifty dollars a year.
He might be useful. The difficulty would be official
correspondence. The Touarghee Consul would be obliged
to employ an Arabic Secretary.

90 THE GREAT DESERT.
My young and kind Touarghee friend Sidi Omer,
called this afternoon. He is more like an English
acquaintance of years' standing than a Desert Touarghee
whom I saw but yesterday. I asked him to take cus-
casou with me. He observed, " No, that must not be ;
a little sugar I'll take, a little perfume for my wife I'll
take, but I must not eat your cuscasou, for you are a
stranger. You ought to eat my cuscasou. The Toua
ricks must not eat the cuscasou of strangers, and so
friendly like you." I offered to take him with me to
Tripoli. He answered, " No, not now, I must first go
and fight the Shanbah. Then I'U return and come to
you in Tripoli, God wiUing ; nay, I'll visit you in your
country, and you shaU show me your Sheikh." In fact,
this young man is free from those fanatical prejudices dis
figuring so many of his countrymen. He is most amiable
and gentle, too gentle for these Saharan wUds. Occa
sionaUy he escorts me about the town, and always keeps
off the rabble. After my friend, Kandarka caUed on me.
I did not know the feUow, he having twisted a white
turban round his head. Strange, this Aheer camel-driver
visited me before I caUed upon him and sent for him,
and when he came I did not recognize him again, on
account of his assuming such Protean shapes. To-day
I was much pleased with his inteUigence and the frank
ness of his conversation. I opened my journal, and showed
him his name written in it, that he might see, if I did not
recognize him, yet he occupied my attention, for his name
was already inscribed with Christian letters in my book.
He was so delighted at the sight of his name in the
book, that he sprung up, made a summerset on the
terrace, took up his sword and flourished it in the air,

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 91
and then sat down again, staring and grinning in my
face as if he had been imbibing laughing gas. There is
more negro blood and negro antics in him than the
ordinary Touaricks of Aheer. He represents Noufee as
a great country of trade, and inhabited by Pagans and
Mohammedans. Kandarka introduced religion, but find
ing the English prayed and acknowledged a God, he was
satisfied and dropped the subject.
Kandarka. — "English, pray?" (bending his forehead
to the ground.)
" Yes, yes."
Kandarka. — " Sultan English, cut off plenty heads,"
(making a stroke with a sword).
" Yes, yes."
Kandarka. — "Sultan EngUsh, plenty wives has he,"
(making an indecent sign).
" Yes, yes."
Kandarka. — " English women, plenty fat — big all
round," (describing a lady's bustle).
" Yes, yes."
Kandarka. — " English, slaves, slaves !"
(I shake my head.)
Kandarka. — " How ? How ?"
(I shake my head.)
Kandarka. — " Where are you going ?"
" I don't know."
Kandarka. — " Come to Aheer with me, I fear no one.
You fear no one when you come with me."
" I don't fear any one but God."
Kandarka. — "G — it's the truth!" (seizing hold of
my hands to embrace me.)
I cannot but lament my feeble powers, to depict the

92 THE GREAT DESERT.
character of my various visitors, and to represent their
ideas in English. I am obliged to be content with a
bald outline of their characters, and a miserable trans
lation of their thoughts into EngUsh dress. This Kan
darka is in himself a complete character, and a study for
the tourist.
This evening paid a visit to Berka, the most aged
Sheikh. It was dark when I arrived at his date-branch
hut. I entered; it was a large enclosure. I found the
aged Sheikh with several of his brothers, and they and
their children sitting round a flickering fire. One of
them was dressed in white. I asked the reason. The
Sheikh told me he was a Marabout. The French Go
vernment writers of Algeria have distinguished Toua
ricks into white and black Touaricks, from the white and
black clothes which they are said to wear. I never
heard of this distinction. Now and then I have seen
a Touarick dressed in white cottons, or woollens ; it
seemed to be a matter of caprice. All dress in black
and blue-black cottons of Soudan ; it is the national
colour. And here we have a new case of contrarieties
in Mussulman nations Uving near neighbours, for the
Moors and Arabs detest black as much as the Touaricks
admire black. The Touaricks seem to have caught the
infection from the colour of their country, which is inter
sected with ranges of black mountains. In one of the
early skirmishes of the French in Algeria, an officer
describes the appearance of the enemy, as covering the
mountain's side, whence they saUied, with a white mantle,
the Arabs were so thick and their burnouses so white.
Berka was very gentle and affable, like every man of a
good old age. " You are welcome in this country," he

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 93
addressed me; "this is a country of peace." Whilst
conversing with the old Sheikh, I heard a gruff heavy
whisper from the farther end of the hut, Hash-Hdlik,
" How do you do ?" I turned round, and to my no
smaU astonishment, I saw the Giant Touarick, stretched
along the fuU length of the very large hut, sweltering in
the fulness of his might. The reader will remember the
honourable mention made of The Giant in Ghadames.
He then raised up his massy head and Atlantean chest,
and put out his brawny sinewy arm, and clenched my
hand : " Yakob, the Shanbah have murdered my little
son, they are the enemies of man and God, not you
Christians. I am going to cut them all to pieces. Last
year I kiUed eight with my own good sword. When you
come back from Soudan, you wiU not hear any more
even the name of the Shanbah." The Giant groaned
out this in bad Arabic. He was greatly afflicted for the
loss of his son. The Shanbah brigands feU upon a
troop of Touaricks, in whose care he had left his little
son, a chUd of very tender age. I presented Berka with
a fine large white turban, and we parted good friends.
The Giant is the nephew of Berka.
5th. — Called upon Hateetah. He had, as usual, many
visitors. Conversation turned upon politics. They were
anxious to know the relative amount of the mUitary
forces of the nations of Europe, and of the Stamboul
Sultan. I always tell them France has plenty of money
and troops. This keeps down their boasting, for the
French are near, and they are alarmed, and they think,
as an Englishman, I must teU the truth when I praise the
French. If I abused the French they might suspect me,
but I have no inclination to do so. At the same time,

94 THE GREAT DESERT.
I'll defy any traveUer to write fairly and justly upon the
late history of North Africa, without filUng his pages
with bond fide and weU-founded abuse of the French and
their works in this part of the world. They empha-
ticaUy stink throughout Africa. Hateetah vexed me
by begging a backsheesh for his brothers. I positively
refused; there's no end to making presents. AU the
Sheikhs, as Bel Kasem said of Khanouhen, have " a
large beUy." On returning home, I determined to keep
the door shut to prevent people coming to annoy me.
Now that I have no sugar or dates left, I have nothing
wherewith to get rid of them. Every visitor who leaves
me, without a smaU present, however trifling it may be,
considers himself insulted by me, or that I don't like
him. Still at a loss to know what to do, whether to proceed
to Soudan, or return and finish my tour of the Medi
terranean. Sometimes I fancy I'll toss up, and then,
checking my folly, FU try the sortes sanctorum; a feather
would turn the scale. On such miserable indecision
hangs the fate of man !
Bought half a sheep for a Spanish dollar. It's not
much of a bargain, for it is one of the Soudan species,
and very thin and bony. Touarick flocks are nearly all
this kind of sheep. When the Arab, who was "halves
with me," divided the carcase, he took two pieces of
wood, and then sent Said down stairs. One of the
pieces he gave me, and the other he kept. He now, taking
back my piece, caUed Said to return, and told him to
put each piece of wood on each half of the sheep. My
piece determined my half, and his piece his half. This
is the Arab sortes sanctorum. The butcher had sprinkled

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 95
his hayk with the blood, a drop or two were on it, and
he was distressed to wash them out lest they should
prevent him saying his prayers. A portion of the
entraUs, the spleen, he applied to his eyes as a talisman
for their preservation.
There is an old woman very fond of annoying me ;
let us suppose she must be a witch ; she always caUs out
after me when I pass her staU, " There is but one God and
Mahomet is the prophet of God." To-day, words would
not suffice; the old hag ran after me and thumped me
over the back, to show her zeal for Mahomet, who,
begging pardon of his HoUness, has not, after aU, been
so very kind to the ladies in his religion, unless it be
the compUment which he has paid them, by placing all
the imaginable fehcity of Paradise in their embraces. I
took no notice of the virago. I find it's no use. I was
glad, however, to hear she was not Touarick, and only a
Billingsgate Mooress of the place. I am also happy to tell
my fair readers, she was not fair but very ugly. A large
party of people foUowed me home, hooting me, to give
them something to eat. This rabble fancies they have
the right to insult a Christian, unless he gives them
something to eat or to wear. To bear aU this, and ten
thousand Uttle delicate attentions of the rabble of Ghat,
requires, as Mr. Fletcher hints, " Conciliation," with an
occasional dose, I should think, of that most necessary
of aU Saharan equipments, in travelhng through The
Desert, patience.
6th. — Sulky with the insolence of the rabble, and
determined not to go out tiU the evening. A brother
or cousin of Hateetah caUed to beg, and being in a bad
humour, I told him I was just going round the town to

96 THE GREAT DESERT.
ask for a few presents myself, in return for those I had
given to the people. He was not abashed, but answered,
"Good, good." He waited half an hour in silence, for
I got to my writing, and went off much pleased, I should
imagine, with his visit. One of the slaves of the
Governor came in, and said sharply, "What's that
feUow douwar (i.e. go about seeking)?" "He wants
you to give him some of your gusub (grain.)" "Kelb"
(dog), he rephed. This slave himself was a brazen-faced
beggar, and a bit of a thief, but withal a droU fellow.
I asked him how he was captured? He answered,
naively, "You know Fezzan, you know Ghat; — weU,
these two countries make the war, and catch me a boy."
"How do you like Haj Ahmed, your master?" "He
has plenty wives, plenty children : we slaves must plenty
work for all these. Now, I like to eat. Haj Ahmed,
he Governor, but he gives me nothing to eat. I work
for him six hours — I work for others six hours. The
people give me to eat, not Haj Ahmed."
This is the character of slave-labour in Ghat. The
masters have half of their labour for -nothing, or because
they are their slaves : with the rest of their labour they
support themselves. The meum et tuum is not, and
indeed cannot be very strictly observed by the poor
people who have to support such a precarious existence;
and when Said went down to bring up the meat to cook
for supper, he found this young gentleman had carried it
nearly aU off to cook for his own supper, leaving what
remained for us to make the best of.
It is now reported that every stranger wUl leave Ghat
in five or six days, one ghafalah going to the south,
another to the north, one to the east, and another to

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 97
the west. To these five or six days ten or twenty
may be added. This is ordinary calculation of Desert
time. Afternoon, Jabour caUed with a young man, who had
a bullet lodged in his arm, which he had received in a
skirmish with the Shanbah. I could only recommend a
surgical operation, and his going to Tripoli. At this
Jabour was alarmed, and asked "What would the Turks
do to the young man?" begging of me medicine. I
offered to take him under my protection, but it was of
no avaU. The amiable Sheikh was as friendly as
ever. I asked him to write a letter to England.
Jabour repUed justly, "You are my letter; I have
written on you. You can tell your Sultan and people
the news of us all." " Don't be afraid to return, there
are no banditti in that route. The Shanbah are in the
west," he added. I promised, if ever returning to Ghat,
I would bring him a sword with his name engraven upon
it. He said, " I know you wUl, Yakob." I am tempted
to think Jabour is the only gentleman amongst the
Touaricks. Another of Hateetah's cousins came to beg,
but went away empty-handed. This evening visited
Bel-Kasem in the expectation of seeing Khanouhen. The
prince saluted me very friendly, and asked, in a sarcastic
tone, "How is the English Consul (Hateetah)?" My
appearance then suggested thoughts about Christians.
"What is the name of the terrible warrior who has
kiUed so many Christians in Algeira?" he demanded.
/.—"Abd-el-Kader." "Yakob," he continued, "come, let you and me fight,
for it seems Mussulmans and Christians must fight.
Here, I'll lend you a spear, — take that" (giving me a
VOL. II. H

98 THE GREAT DESERT.
huge iron lance.) I took it, and turning to Bel-Kasem,
said, "What's this cost?" so evading the chaUenge.
"The price of a camel," shouted Bel-Kasem at the top
of his voice. "Ah!" cried Khanouhen, "right, now sit
down again; men are fools to fight — why cut one
another's throats?" "Yakob," he went on, "your
Sultan's a woman, does she fight?" There was now a
tremendous knocking at the door. This was two or
three cousins of Hateetah. " D  n that Hateetah,"
cried Khanouhen, "Bel-Kasem, turn them away."
Hereupon, Bel-Kasem started up in the most abject style
of obedience, and pushed one of his slaves out of the
room-door into the open court, crying " Bago, bago" (not
at home). There are certain foreign words which get
currency, and supplant all native ones. This " bago" is
neither Touarghee, nor Ghadamsee, nor Arabic, although
used by persons speaking almost exclusively these lan
guages. Bago is Housa, as before mentioned. Then
the slave caUed "Bago, bago, bago;" then half-a-dozen
slaves, close to the street-door, caUed " Bago, bago,
bago." The knocking continued ; the " bagos" continued,
the uproar was hideous. Then Bel-Kasem gave his slave
a slap, crying, "Bago, you kelb (dog)." Now the slave
was off again to the other slaves, shouting and yelling
" Bagos," tiU the " bagos" drowned the knocking and the
clamour without, and the disappointed supper-hunters
retired growling like hungry wolves of the evening.
Bel-Kasem now gave me a hint to fetch the money for
Khanouhen. I was off and back in an instant, very
glad to give the Sheikh the money according to our new
compact. I put it into the hands of Bel-Kasem. " Go
out," said Bel-Kasem, " and see the fine parrots I have

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 99
bought." I went out, and in the meanwhUe the politic
merchant slipped the money into the hands of the
Prince. When I came back, they both began to ridicule
Hateetah. The Prince said, " Yakob, place yourself
under the sword of Hateetah, and go out with him and
fight a hundred Shanbah." " Oh, he's an ass," replied
Bel-Kasem. Such was their style of ridicule. Bel-
Kasem is a well-meaning little fellow, but a sort of fool
or jester of the Sheikh's. Khanouhen allows him to
say anything and do anything, but laughs at him all the
time. Bel-Kasem always brings the Sheikh some
pretty present, and Khanouhen throws around him his
powerful arm of protection. The slavish merchant and
faithful sycophant always calls him Sultan, swears by the
Sheikh's beard in his quarrels with the other merchants,
and threatens aU his rivals in trade with Khanouhen's
wrath. The Sahara has its factions in every group of its society.
It would appear that without faction neither Saharan nor
any other sort of society could exist. Ghadames gives
us its Ben Weleed and Ben Wezeet. Ghat gives us three
great factions in its Republic of Sheikhs. We may thus
classify their politics : —
Monarchical Faction.
Mohammed Shafou Ben Seed, the Sultan of the Ghat,
or Azgher Touaricks.
El-Haj Mohammed Khanouhen Ben Othman, the heir-
apparent of the throne.
Marabout El-Haj Ahmed Ben El-Haj, Es-Sadeek, Go
vernor of the town of Ghat.
Ouweek (second-rate Sheikh). h 2

100 THE great desert.
Aristocratic Faction.
Mohammed Ben Jabour, Marabout Sheikh.
Democratic Faction.
Berka Ben Entashaf, the most aged of the Sheikhs.
The Sheikh of gigantic stature*.
Hateetah Ben Khouclen, the "friend" of the English.
I found the strongest demonstrations of rivalry, and
the bitterest feelings of faction, in the conduct of these
several princes of The Desert, who are the personages
of influence and authority amongst the Ghat Touaricks.
In the monarchical class the Governor of the town is
allied to the Sultan by marriage, though Khanouhen has
no famUy by the Governor's sister. Shafou, the venerable
Sultan, is of such gentle unassuming manners that he
exercises no political influence over the wild sons of The
Desert. Khanouhen embodies the Sultan, and is the
man of eloquence, of action, and intrepidity in the
national councils. He is feared by aU (Jabour, perhaps,
excepted), but, nevertheless, is not tyrannical in his
administration of affairs. Jabour, the Marabout, is
a wise, upright, and amiable prince. His influence
extends beyond the Ghat Touaricks. Jabour told me
himself, he had several people subject to his authority,
extending as far as Timbuctoo. To these, the Prince
promised to commit me in case I determined to make
a journey to Timbuctoo. Like Khanouhen, Jabour
has two wives; one resides in Ghat, where the
Sheikh has a town-house, and the other in the country
* Having always called him the Giant in my notes, I neglected
to get his name.

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 101
districts. He has, besides, four or five sons. I saw one
of them, who was as much of an aristocrat as his father.
The merchants assured me that Jabour's influence, more
especiaUy as he is a marabout, although he is no dema
gogue priest of the Higgins' calibre, is unbounded.
" With a slave of Jabour," they declared, " you may go
to Timbuctoo, and aU parts of Sahara." The Sheikh
himself does not visit the neighbouring countries. This
is not the custom of the Touaricks, the people being
opposed to the Sheikhs leaving their districts ; but they
send their slaves or relations continually about. Berka,
the head of the democratic faction, is too old to exer
cise power, he has only strength enough to get about.
The aged Prince paid me two visits, and was as gentle
as gentleness could be. His family contains some
powerful and intrepid chiefs, amonst the rest the Giant,
the Goliath of the Ghat Touaricks. But, speaking of
giants, Bassa, Sultan of the Haghar Touaricks, is the
real Giant of The Desert. Some of the people report
this Giant Desert Prince to have six fingers on each
hand, and to be several heads taller than he of Ghat.
His spear, they describe, in the true spirit of the mar
vellous, to be, "higher than the taUest palm." I may
help their imagination, "And the staff of his spear is
like a weaver's beam, and his spear's head weighs six
hundred shekels of iron," or is like —
" The mast
Of some great admiral."
Were I to adopt our present fanciful theories of ac
counting for the origin and migration of nations, I should

102 THE GREAT DESERT.
here have a fine field before me, and the Touarghee giants
of The Sahara would become, by the transmuting fancy
of our antiquarian theologians, the veritable Philistines
of Gath and Ekron. For many of the Berber tribes,
amongst whom the Touaricks are classed, especiaUy the
Shelouh of Morocco, relate traditionaUy that their fathers
came from the land of the PhiUstines, and that they
themselves are PhiUstines. What then is easier than to
find in the name of Ghat the Gath of the PhiUstines ? But
unfortunately, Azgher is the Touarick name of themselves
and their country. StiU the name of Ghat must have
its origin. As before noticed, the original signification
of the term Ghat has been traced to mean " Sun" or
" God," in the ancient Libyo-Egyptian language. I am
not competent to give an opinion on the subject. One
of the Latin writers makes the aboriginal people of
North Africa to have been Medes. The probabUity is
they were Syrians of some class. From the coast they
would naturaUy pass or migrate to The Sahara.
Hateetah is an extremely pacific man in his conduct, and
greatly liked for his peace-making disposition ; but he is
only a second-rate Sheikh, and has no poUtical influence
over Touarick affairs, beyond what the chief of his famUy
enjoys. He has several brothers and cousins, aU
esteemed Sheikhs, but with Uttle or no power.
The government of the Touaricks is an assemblage of
Chieftains, the people supporting their respective leaders,
the heads of their clans in the feudal style, and aU these
controUed by a Sultan or Sheikh-Kebir. The number of
Sheikhs, when the lesser, or second and third-rate,
Sheikhs are included, is very considerable, and makes

ABANDON THE TO OR TO SOUDAN. 103
the country, as the Governor says, "a country of
Sheikhs." In their various districts, each greater Sheikh
exercises a sovereign, if not independent authority. In
any national emergency, they aU wUlingly unite for the
common defence and protection, as now, when they are
coUecting their forces, in a common effort to extirpate the
Shanbah banditti. The people, however, enjoy complete
liberty. The Touaricks, though a nation of chiefs and
princes, are in every sense and view a nation of free
men, and have none of those odious and effeminate vices
which so darkly stain the Mahometans of the North
Coast, or the Negro countries of Negroland. Every man
is a tower of strength for himself, and his desert hut or
tent, situate in vast soUtudes, is his own inviolable home
of freedom !
According to Haj Ahmed, the Touaricks of Ghat
muster fifteen thousand warriors. Let them be ten
thousand, this would give an entire population, including
women, old men, and chUdren, and slaves of both sexes'
of about sixty thousand souls. These Touaricks possess
a good number of slaves, but of the male sex to look
after their camels. Every able-bodied Touarick is a
warrior, and is equipped with a dagger, suspended under
the left arm by a broad leather ring attached to the
scabbard, and going round the wrist, and a Touarick of
adult age is never seen without this dangerous weapon ; a
straight broad-sword is slung on his back, and he carries
a spear or lance in his right hand. Most of the spears
have wooden shafts, but others are aU metal, and mostly
iron. Some are of fine and elegant workmanship, inlaid
with brass, and of the value of a good maharee, or
thirty doUars. They have staves also, which they use as

104

TJlJ!i UIMiAT L»UiJSJS«T.

walking-sticks, or weapons of war, as it may be*. These
are their weapons of warfare. The matchlock they
despise. " What can the enemy do with the gun against
the sword?" the Targhee warriors ask contemptuously.
They, indeed, use the sword, their grand weapon, as the
English soldier the bayonet. Their superior tactic is to
surprise the enemy, especially in the night, when the
Genii help them, and hack him to pieces. The spear is
used mostly to wound and disable the camel. Their
manner of disposing of the booty, is characteristic.
" What are we to do with these men and children ?"
they asked me, "when we have exterminated the Shan
bah men." Without waiting for a reply they said : —
" Oh, we'U send them to the Turks and sell them." They
have the example of the Turks themselves, who, on the
destruction of the Arab men in the mountains, collected
the women and children together, and sent the best of
them to Constantinople to be sold, in defiance of the
express law of the Koran.
The maharee cannot be overlooked; this remarkable
camel, which is like the greyhound amongst dogs for
swiftness and agility, and even shape, they train for war
and riding like the horse. They do not rear the ordi
nary variety of camel found in North Africa and on the
" The spear is called filagh, i  i'X= , the dagger tayloulch, ^ Juj' ,
the sword takoubah, £jj.£aj, and the stave, with a spear point,
azallah, X!ve. The old men, like indeed Shafou, frequently
make use of a large stick, instead of a spear, when they .walk
about. Usually the Touaricks carry their lances with them, and
all their arms, even in paying the most friendly visits. To strangers
they look infinitely more formidable than they are, or they them
selves pretend to be.

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 105
u - u _
Coast. <Sj^c or ^ are the two manners in which
I have seen the Moorish talebs write this word in
Arabic. An Arab phUologist says, the term Maharee is
derived from the name of the Arabian province of
Mahra, on the south-east coast, adjoining Oman, whence
this fine species of camel is supposed originally to have
been brought into The Desert. The Touaricks, of course,
have very curious legends about their peculiar camel
We have, however, the Arabic j^>, "to be diligent,"
"acute-minded," and the term 'iSJ&e, "flying away,"
from which &;&<» may probably be derived. At least
there is no apparent objection to such derivation. The
Hebrew cognate dialect has the word also, ina signifies
" to hasten," "to be quick ;" but I cannot assert positively
it has any relation with this derivation. In the books
written on Western Barbary, we find the terms heire'e
and erragnol to denote the "fleet" or "swift-footed
camel," the former of which is apparently a corruption
of mahry or maharee. It is said that camels are
called by names derived from the Arabic numerals, as
tesaee, "ten," (&*S), and sebaee, "seven," (jr>->)
according as they perform a journey of ten days, or seven
days, in one; but I never heard of this distinction in
any part of The Desert. It is pretended that the
mahry cannot live on the Coast of Africa on account of
the cold. This has not been sufficiently tried, for Haj
Ibrahim kept one at Tripoli, which thrived very well, and
was in good condition. It is, however, a very chilly
animal, and seems to feel the cold as much as the
Touarghee himself. In its healthy state it is full of fire
and energy, and always assumes the mastery over the

106 THE GREAT DESERT.
camels of the Coast, biting them, and trying to prevent
them from eating with it in circle like other camels.
Mounted on his mahry, dressed out fantastically in various
and many-coloured harness, (the small saddle being
fixed on the withers, and the rider's legs on the neck of
the animal,) with his sword slung on his back, dagger
under the left arm, and lance in the right hand, the
Touarghee warrior sallies forth to war, daring everything,
and fearing nothing but God and the Demons. In the
year '44 they made an inroad upon the sandy wastes of
the Shanbah bandits ; days and months they pursued
the brigand tribe over the trackless regions of sand ; and
during this expedition they neither tasted food, nor
drank a drop of water, for seven days ! — stiU keeping
up a running fight, pursuing and butchering the Shanbah,
who aU disappeared at last, concealed under heaps of
sand. This statement, which shows the extraordinary
power of endurance — the moral and physical temperance
in the Touaricks, I had from the Governor of Ghat him
self, and which coming from him deserves credit. But
the Touaricks do not eat every day though they may
have food in the house. They eat generally every other
day. And this amply suffices them when merely reclin
ing in their tents, or lounging in the Souk. Habit is
everything; we might aU live on one meal a day if we
could accustom ourselves to it. The people pretend
that, though the Shanbah can count the grains of their
desert region of sand, and know every form of the sand-
mountains as weU by night as by day, the Touaricks had
nevertheless the advantage over them, pursuing them
better by night than by day, because the Genii were
their guides ; and many Shanbah, who had hid them-

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 107
selves under the sand, were unburied by the Genii, and
slain by the Touaricks.
I have given a case of Touarghee justice. During
the Ghat Souk, all the Sheikhs assemble in the great
square, the SheUy, for the arrangement of disputes; but
it is mere form, and is more for gossiping and quizzing
one another, the Touarick being fond of a good joke.
The principal Sheikh present mounts a stone-bench, and
sits down in a recUning posture, striking his spear into
the ground, which stands erect before him, as if awaiting
his orders. The very first thing a Touarghee does when
he stops and sits down, is to strike his spear into the
ground or sand. When my friend Ouweek was napping
near me at the well of Tadoghseen, his spear was struck
into the sand close by his head. So it is said, "And,
behold, Saul lay sleeping within the trench, and his
spear stuck in the ground at his bolster." (1 Samuel,
chap. xxvi. ver 7.) The Sheikh of highest rank now
seated, the Sheikhs next in dignity take their seats
around him, at a short distance off, in the form of a semi
circle, these generally squatting on the ground. Some
times the principal Sheikh himself squats on the ground.
The cases of dispute are then brought forward, if any.
The infliction of punishment is by fines. There is no
thing in the shape of a prison, — this delectable institu
tion being the work and discovery of civiUzation. Our
Irishman might indeed, without a bull, with his back to
The Desert, and his face to the civilized communities of
the Coast, exclaim, on sight of the first prison and
gibbet, "Thank God, I am out of the land of Barbarians,
and have reached the land of Civilization !" Of fines, I
heard of no other case than that of the Sultan fining

108

THE GREAT DESERT.

two strangers a couple of doUars, whilst resident in
Ghat. In some parts of the Shelly there are ranges of
benches of two and three flights. It is an imposing sight,
to pass through the square late in the afternoon, just
before they leave, and see all the Touaricks mounted
on these benches. Row upon row, range upon range,
they sit, closely jammed together, as thick as Milton's
spirits in Pandemonium, and not unlike them, with their
dark and concealed countenances, so mysteriously muffled
up with the dread litham, having before them ranges of
spears, parallel to themselves, a bright forest hedge of
pines, awaiting their orders for war or warlike pomp. I
have frequently passed this forest range of lances, and
looked up fearfully to the dark enigmatical figures or
shapes of human beings, reclining in the most profound
death-like sUence, not exchanging a word with one an
other. A most trivial call of attention, a rustling or

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 109
breath of an accident of novelty, nevertheless, is enough to
put instant action and fire into these ranged masses of ice-
congealed or stone statue-like warriors, who will then
rush down upon the attractive object headlong, one falling
over the other, until their childish curiosity being satisfied,
the wild tumult subsides, and they themselves sink into
their wonted blank inanity. But it is a fact, they will sit
motionless thus for hours and hours, and not condescend
to speak to their best friend amongst the merchants.
This is their idea of dignity and superior rank over their
fellows. It would appear, from the account of the
Sultan of Bornou, that he, also, never condescends to
speak when he receives a foreign envoy. " Slowness of
motion," in Barbary, and I imagine in The East, is also
considered a mark of dignity. A full-blown fashionable
Moor always walks extremely slow. The Touarick usually
rises up slowly, and deUberately walks out of the house
in the same way, but otherwise he continues a fair pace.
What is curious, a Touarick never speaks and salutes
when he leaves you ; his compliments and inquiries of
health, are aU on his entrance iuto your house.
It now seems pretty well agreed upon by all parties
who converse about my affairs, that I should return and
make greater preparations, and bring with me two or
three others, feUow-travellers, so as to render an expe
dition of this sort more useful and respectable. But the
disadvantage always is, if it get abroad that such a
mission is coming, laden with presents, money and pro
visions, the danger is tenfold augmented, whilst an
indigent person Uke myself is in comparative security.
A single person has also his own advantages over a
mission of two or three, or more. He is his own master

110 THE GREAT DESERT.
he is responsible alone for himself. Who knows, but
what something disastrous had happened if I had had
with me some hot-headed companion ? A man wiU
lose his life any time in The Desert in five minutes if he
cannot keep his temper. He may occasionally assume
airs of being angry for policy's sake, and check the
insolence of some low fellow, and with other advan
tages. But the point is, to be cool in danger and
embarrassments, which, if a man cannot be, let him go
into The Great Desert at his perU. It was for the same
reason I would not bring with me an European servant
from Tripoli, whose fluency in Arabic might have been
attended with the greatest danger to us both instead of
assistance. Said is pestered with questions about me or
my affairs ; but at times Said is stupid enough, and
people get tired of asking him questions. I must men
tion, however, one thing to his credit and to his cunning
sagacity; although a thousand times questioned, whether
he himself were a slave, and how he came with me, he
never let out that he was a runaway slave from Tunis,
not even to his dearest companions of travel. GeneraUy
when asked a question of our affairs, he says, Ma-Ndrafsh,
"I don't know," and this he does as much from his
indolence in not wishing to talk as from poUcy. Here I
shaU take the liberty of stating the several objections to
my proceeding this year to Soudan : —
1st. My health is beginning to sink under pressure of
the climate, as weU as under various vexations and
annoyances. Amongst the latter, I have received nothing
which I wrote for to Tripoli, to persons whom I con
sidered friends of the mission, one thing excepted, and
certainly not the least thing, the money. (And I embrace

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. Ill
the opportunity of thanking gratefully Signor Francovich,
Austrian merchant of Tripoli, for letting me have money
whenever I asked him, promptly and immediately, and
to any amount which I drew for).
2nd. Amongst the things written for to Tripoli, and
which did not arrive, were medicine, and some common
instruments of observation. The medicine was packed
up by Dr. Dickson, but neglected to be sent until the
caravan had left Ghadames. The instruments, which
could easUy have been procured in Tripoli, were of the
greatest consequence, in making a more extended tour
intelligible. 3rd. Kanou, being reported by aU the merchants as
" a country of fever," it would have been exceedingly
imprudent for me to have gone further without a good
stock of medicines. We have no right to plunge our
selves into the flood of the Niger, and then accuse the
hand of Providence for not saving us from a watery
grave. One might have escaped the fever, as one might
have been picked up by the swimming of a black man ;
but such a " might" belongs to accident, not the planning
and arranging of legitimate expectation.
I shaU not trouble the reader with ten or more reasons,
aU having more or less of weight, which I have recorded
in my journal, but which are more curious than sensible.
I mention, that, on my departure from Ghat, I wrote to
the Sultan of Aheer, by the advice of my best friends,
informing him of my intention to visit him at some
future period. It is a mistake that, the taking of these
Saharan princes unawares ; they consider it infinitely
more friendly to be written to beforehand. A stranger,
and especially a Christian, coming down upon them

112 THE GREAT DESERT.
unexpectedly, excites suspicion which may never be after
wards removed. The Touarick Princes of Aheer are
considered the only difficulty, so far as governments are
concerned, in the rest of the route. The Fullan Princes
of Soudan are represented as eminently friendly to every
body, every stranger of whatever clime or religion.
However, I do not pretend to know what effect the
Niger expedition may have produced on the Fullans,
with respect to Englishmen.
4'r '/<: -X- ¦)£¦ -X-
7th. — Stayed at home all the day. The fcex populi
is a great worry to me. They have no encouragement
from the Sheikhs, but are not less the cause of my
shutting myself up at home. Evening, when the streets
were clear, visited Haj Ibrahim. He has purchased the
feathers of a splendid Soudan ostrich for five dollars,
which in Tripoli he wiU sell for ten. The bird is
skinned and the feathers remain unplucked. The qucsstio
vexata, as to who is Haj Ibrahim's "friend," sahab
(i—^Ls), to whom he should pay his tribute-present,
for visiting the Souk, is at length decided in favour of
Berka. The old gentleman produced witnesses that aU
Jerbini belonged to him, or are under his protection, and
as Haj Ibrahim is a native of Jerbah, he claimed the
rich merchant. The several Sheikhs have the several
merchants under their protection. Shafou has those of
Tunis, Jabour those of Tripoli, under their respective
protection, and so of the rest. The merchants pay for
their protection from ten to twenty dollars, according to
their means. Frequently a group of traders do not pay
more than a single individual ; some get off with paying
only a doUar. These demands on the merchants are

ABANDON THE TOUR TO SOUDAN. 113
certainly very moderate, and the Touaricks scarcely
deserve the epithets of exigeant and extortionate which
are so freely applied to them by the merchants. Haj
Ibrahim, who brings some thousand dollars' worth of
goods to this part, pays only the paltry sum of some
twenty or thirty dollars at the most. In fact, here is
free-trade with a vengeance, existing long before it has
been attempted to carry it out, with such tremendous
consequences, as in Great Britain. France and the
Zollverein must send agents to the Souk of Ghat, say
half a dozen University students each, to study free-
trade principles from the barbarians of The Desert.
Indeed Touaricks carry out their system beautifuUy and
like gentlemen, and the Aheer merchants pay nothing in
Ghat, and the Ghat merchants pay nothing in Aheer,
for the privileges of commerce, in the way of customs'
dues. The merchants and Arabs of Derge pay nothing
whatever, a privilege of ancient date granted to this
class of TripoUne merchants. But the Souk flourishes
with its free-trade mart, and excites the jealousies of the
merchants of Mourzuk, and their masters the Turks,
because some of the merchants pass from here direct to
Algeria and Tunis, not touching the TripoUne territory,
and in this way the Turks lose their much-coveted
gomerick, or customs' duty. I am happy to record the
present instance of these extortioners being overreached,
or rather, vanquished by an honourable system of trade.
Certainly, were it not for the high duties levied on mer
chandize at Mourzuk and Ghadames, many of the mer
chants of this Souk would visit those cities, and the
Turks could- not faU to benefit by this extra rendezvous
of merchants. Haj Ibrahim does not think the whole of
VOL. II. I

114 THE GREAT DESERT.
what all the Sheikhs together coUect as presents, at the
annual Ghat Souk, to be more than 250 or 300 dollars.
In case Great Britain should think it worth while to
bribe or buy the services of the Touaricks of The Desert,
to intercept the slave-caravans, and so discourage the
traffic, it certainly could be done for some 500 doUars
per annum, or for very little more, if it were a question
of money only.

115

CHAPTER XX.
CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Commerce of Winter Mart at Ghat. — Visit to Hateetah, and meet
the Sultan. — Means of suppressing Saharan Slave Trade by the
Touaricks. — Hateetah refuses my returning with a Bengazi Ca
ravan. — Bad Character of Arabs. — Receive a Visit from His
Highness the Sultan ; and interesting Conversation with him. —
Ghat Townsmen great Bigots. — Unexpected Meeting with the
Sultan. — My Targhee Friend's opinion of War. — Mode of Bak
ing Bread. — Country of Touat. — The British Consul is per
plexed at his Master being a Lady. — Vulgar error of Christians
ill-treating Mussulmans in Europe. — People teach the Slaves to
call me Infidel. — Visit to Bel Kasem, and find Khanouhen. —
The free-thinking of this Prince. — Said's apprehensions of Tou
aricks. — Hateetah's opinion of stopping Saharan Slave-Dealing.
— Shafou leaves Ghat. — Discussion of Politics with an assem
blage of Chiefs. — Description of the Touarick Tribes and
Nations of The Great Desert. — Description of Aheer and Ag-
hadez. — Leo's Account of the Targhee Desert — Daughters of
the Governor Educated. — Touaricks refuse aid from the Turks
against the Shanbah. — A private Slave-Mart. — Ghat compara
tively free from Crime. — Visit from Berka.
It is not my intention to enter into the statistics of
trade, but I mention a few facts. Caravans from Soudan,
including aU the large cities, but especially from Kanou,
from Bornou, from the Tibboo country, from Touat, from
Fezzan, from Souf, from Ghadames, and from Tripoli,
Tunis, and the North coast, visited the Ghat Souk of
this winter. The number of merchants, traders, and
camel-drivers was about 500, the slaves imported from
Soudan to Bornou about 1000, and the camels em
ployed in the caravans about 1050. Provision cara-
i 2

116 THE GREAT DESERT.
vans from Fezzan also were 'constantly coming to Ghat
during the Souk. The main commerce of these
caravans consisted of the staple exports, of slaves,
elephants' teeth, and senna, the united value of which,
at the market this year, was estimated at about 60,000/.,
which value would be doubled, on arriving at the Euro
pean markets.
Next to these grand objects of commerce were ostrich
feathers, skins, and hides in considerable quantities.
Then followed various articles of minor character, but
of Soudanic manufacture, which are brought to the Souk,
viz., wooden spoons, bowls, and other utensils for cook
ing; also sandals, wooden combs, leather piUow-cases,
bags, purses, pouches, bottles and skin-bags for water, &c. ;
arms, consisting of spears, lances, staves, daggers, straight
broad-swords, leather and dried skin shields. Some
of these weapons are made aU of metal ; the blades of
the swords are manufactured in Europe and America.
These arms are mostly for the equipment of the Ghat
and Touat Touaricks, and are nearly all manufactured
in Aheer. Provisions are also exported from Soudan
and Aheer to this mart, consisting of semen or liquid
butter; ghusub or dra; ghafouly*, sometimes caUed
Guinea corn ; hard cheese from Aheer, which is pounded
before eaten; beef, cut into shreds, and without salt,
dried in the sun and wind; peppers of the most pun
gent character, an extremely small quantity sufficing to
season a large dish; a species of sheU fruit, caUed by
* Ghafouly — J*i<t" — Solcus sorghum, (Linn). Ghafouly grows
higher than a man ; the stalk is as thick round as sugar-cane ; the
grain is of white colour, and half the size of a dry pea, of a round
flattened shape. It is much coarser eating than maize.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 117
the Moors Soudan almonds*; bakhour, or frankincense;
and ghour nuts and koudah, which are masticated as
tobacco. There is then, finaUy, the great cotton manu
facture, which clothes half the people of The Desert.
Whole caravans of these cottons arrive together, and
they are even conveyed from Ghat to Timbuctoo, this
extremely roundabout way from Soudan. The colour is
mostly a blue-black, sometimes a Ughter blue, and glazed
and shining. But the indigo is iU-prepared, and the
dyeing as badly done, and the consequence is, the
cottons are very begriming in the wearing. The indigo
plant is simply cut, and thrown into a pond of water to
ferment with the articles to be dyed, and after a short
time the cottons are taken out, dried, pressed, and
glazed with gum. It is these dark cottons which the
Touaricks are so passionately fond of. The only klive
animals brought over The Desert from Soudan and Aheer
are sheep and parrots.
The articles of import to the Souk from Europe are
sufficiently weU known; they are chiefly sUks and
cloth, but of the most ordinary sort, and of showy
colours, red, yeUow, light green. Raw sUk and bro
cades; beads, glass and composition; smaU looking-
glasses; wooden bracelets, fantasticaUy painted; sword-
blades; neediest; paper J; razors;, some spices, cloves, &c;
* Arachis hypogcea, (Linn). This shell fruit has two names in
Housa, goujeed, and gay da. Many of the shells are double; they
are smallish, very soft, and easily broken. The taste of the fruit is
not disagreeable, a good deal like the almond, but more viscid, and
a little insipid.
f Mostly with the mark " porco" on the packets.
% Mostly with the mark " tre lune" on it. I complained to a
merchant that the paper was very coarse, and asked him why he

118 THE GREAT DESERT.
attar of roses; carpet-rugs; "Indians," or coarse white
cottons ; bornouses and barracans, &c, <&c. But it may
be observed, all the European articles introduced into
Central Africa are of the most ordinary description
possible. Barracans or blankets are brought from
various places for sale at Ghat, but mostly from the
Souf and Touat oases, where the women weave them in
great quantities. They are very warm and serviceable
in the winter months, and are even carried to Soudan,
where during the rainy and damp season these woollens
are highly prized for their usefulness, and found greatly
conducive to health. No fire-arms, which I could observe,
are brought for sale here. There is scarcely any gold
trade ; a very small quantity is brought here v id Touat
from Timbuctoo. The money in circulation at the Souk
is nearly aU Spanish. The exceptions are two smaU
Turkish coins, called karoobs, one of the value of about
an English penny, and the other double this. A few
Tunisian piastres pass amongst merchants of the north.
It is not the large piUared-doUar (mudfah) which is in
circulation, but the quarter-doUars of Spain. Five of
these quarter-doUars make up the value of a whole
Spanish doUar, and four are the value of the current or
ideal doUar, caUed the smaU doUar. The Soudanese
merchants, who are accustomed to see • this money
brought from the western coast, flatly refuse all other
monies but the Spanish. There is not a great quantity
did not purchase finer paper. He replied, "Ifs all the same in
Soudan, fine or coarse." The same answer would be given to every
complaint about the coarseness and bad quality of these imports
into Africa. Fine or coarse cloth, and fine or coarse silk, sell
much the same in Negroland.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 119
of it here; merchants keep up the supply of this cur
rency by exporting it from Touat and Morocco. No
gold coins are in circulation, nor any copper. The
Turkish money, excepting the karoobs mentioned, will
not pass here ; people detest it as much as they do the
Turks themselves. I once asked an orthodox merchant
how it was, that Mussulmans preferred the money of
infidel Christians to that of the Sultan of the Faithful?
He naively repUed, " God has taught Christians to make
money, because although used in this world, it is
accursed. Mussulmans touch the abominable thing, but
don't poUute themselves by making it. In the next
world Mussulmans wUl have all good things and enjoy
ments without money; but Christians wiU have molten
money, like hot running lead, continuaUy pouring down
their throats as their torment for ever."
There is a very ancient story in circulation (in books)
respecting the pecuUar manner of carrying on trade
somewhere in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. It is
copied by Shaw from former writers on Africa. " At a
certain time of the year," the honest Doctor says, " they
(Western Moors) make this journey in a numerous
caravan, carrying along with them coral and glass beads,
bracelets of horn, knives, scissors, and such Uke trinkets.
When they arrive at the places appointed, which is on
such a day of the moon, they find in the evening several
different heaps of gold-dust lying at a smaU distance
from each other, against which the Moors place so many
of their trinkets as they judge wUl be taken in exchange
for them. If the Nigritians, the next morning, approve
of the bargain, they take up the trinkets and leave the

120 THE GREAT DESERT.
gold-dust, or else make some deductions from the latter.
In this manner they transact their exchange without
seeing one another, or without the least instance of dis
honesty or perfidiousness on their part." This curious
instance of Nigritian commerce has certainly been copied
from the following passage in Herodotus, proving the
high antiquity of the ingenious fable : — " It is their
(the Carthaginian's) custom," says the father of history,
" on arriving among them (the people beyond the
columns of Hercules) to unload their vessels, and dis
pose their goods along the shore ; this done, they again
embark, and make a great smoke from on board. The
natives seeing this, come down immediately to the
shore, and placing a quantity of gold, by way of ex
change, retire. The Carthaginians then land a second
time, and if they think the gold equivalent, they take
it and depart — if not, they again go on board their
vessels. The inhabitants return, and add more gold tiU
the crews are satisfied. The whole is conducted with
the strictest integrity, for neither wUl one touch the
gold tiU they have left an adequate value in merchan
dize, nor will the other remove the goods, till the Car
thaginians have taken away the gold." This story,
unhappily for the guileless simplicity of our merchants
here, is too good to be true, like most artless stories of
this sort. I made inquiries of merchants who had lived
nearly all their lifetimes in Timbuctoo, and not far from
the gold country, but they had never heard of this pretty
primitive mode of barter. And yet the story has a real
African or Negro look in it. One cannot positively
assert that something like this might not have existed

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 121
amongst the Nigritians and their foreign exchangers of
produce and merchandize. Let us hope, for the honesty
of mankind, that the fable had a genuine origin.
8th. — Called on Hateetah this morning. Still the
Sheikh bothers me about presents for his brothers ; he had
also the conscience to ask for another barracan for himself.
I stood out, determined to give nothing to him or his
brothers and cousins. Spent the evening with Haj
Ibrahim. His friend, the Ghadamsee merchant, Ahmed
Ben Kaka, who makes the journey from Tripoli to
Noufee, says he saw the English steamers of the late
Niger expedition, so he must have descended lower than
Noufee. He says they came up to Yetferrej, "amuse
themselves," and look about. He had not heard of their
anti-slavery objects. According to him, " Fever and
sickness prevail more at Kanou than Noufee."
9th. — A fine morning, but cold. Slept little ; these fits
of not sleeping come on repeatedly. The Touarghee who
has charge of my camel has brought her from the grazing
districts. On arriving at Ghat, aU the merchants send
their camels to graze in these places. The Touarghee asks
for barley or straw whUst the nagah is here. The incident
reminds me of — " Barley also and straw for the horses
and dromedaries brought they unto the place where the
officers were, every man according to his charge." (1st
Book of Kings, chap. iii. 28.) This is the food of
horses and camels to the present day in North Africa;
the barley is principally for the horses, and the straw,
when it is chopped into little pieces, is given to both
horses and camels. The Touaricks show the greatest
antipathy to the Arabs, more especially since the late
murderous attack of the Shanbah ou their defenceless

122 THE GREAT DESERT.
countrymen. Some of the Touaricks go so far as to say,
" Mahomet was not an Arab." My Touarghee friend
Omer quarrelled violently with two Souf Arabs, who
were also visiting me. I told them it was indecent to
quarrel in the house of a stranger whom they were
together visiting, and they made it up, shaking hands.
10th. — Visited a patient, but had some difficulty in
persuading him to take my nostrums. Afterwards caUed
on Hateetah, and, to my agreeable surprise, found there
the Sultan. I did not at first recognize His Highness,
the litham being entirely removed from his face*. I
was vexed at my awkwardness, but the good-natured
Sheikhs, several of whom were present, readUy excused
me. His Highness and another Sheikh were eating a sort
of bazeen or pudding, with curd mUk, out of a large
wooden bowl. Each had a spoon with which they
scooped up the pudding one after another. I have some
times seen two persons eating from a dish and having
but one spoon, which they used alternately, one feUow
watching anxiously the other with greediness, and
measuring with a hungry eye the size of his friend's
spoonfuls. It is an advance on the Arabs, this
use of spoons, and I always took care to praise the
Touaricks for their use of spoons. In the open country,
when a Touarghee has finished his meal he drives the
handle into the sand to keep the lower part dry. These
spoons are aU made in Soudan, and are extremely neat,
the shaft of the spoon being very much bent, and the
* This is frequently the case. When a Touarghee wears his
litham, and when he pulls it off, he undergoes a complete metamor
phosis, so that strangers cannot recognize the parties in their change
of dress.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 123
bottom very large and deepened in. His Highness now
told me he should send a present to the Queen, and
asked me if I would take a maharee. This I declined,
on account of the expenses of bringing such an animal
to England on my own responsibility. Hateetah said,
" Why how foolish, when you get to Mourzuk the Consul
wUl give you plenty of money." I told him I did not
know the Consul there, and must not trust to any Con
suls for such matters. None of the Sheikhs could under
stand this objection. On getting up to take leave of
His Highness he asked : " How do you like our country ?
What do you think of our merchants ? Are the people
civU to you ? Shall you again return ? How old are
you? Why do you travel so far? Will it not shorten
your life ? Will not your Sultan give you a great deal of
money for coming so far?" &c. Hateetah now told me
to sit down again. AU were reclining on mats, and no
particular attention was paid to the Sultan. A mer
chant present said, " Why don't you buy and seU, the
Souk is open? We wish to see the EngUsh come here
to buy senna and elephants' teeth. But the EngUsh
don't purchase slaves." I then, half-doubting the pro
priety of, and greatly puzzled how to introduce the
subject, tried to make an effort. " How much," asked
I, " do the Touaricks get from the merchants who deal
in slaves ? I don't think more than three hundred dol
lars a year ?" (Several of the Sheikhs nodded assent.)
" WeU, now, if the SiUtan and the Touaricks would stop
the traffic in slaves here, perhaps the EngUsh would give
them three thousand dollars per annum." They all
laughed at this, and the merchant of Ghat took upon him
self to say, for the Sultan and the Sheikhs, " Bring the

124 THE GREAT DESERT.
money." To this I rejoined, " But see now, I can't in
terfere, I'm not the English Consul; Hateetah (turning
to him) is the English Consul, let him write for Shafou,
to our Queen and arrange everything. ITI take Shafou's
present and bring back his from our Sultan. This is all
I can do." Hateetah raised himself up at this saUy, and
looked very consequentially upon all around, even upon
Shafou, as much as to say, " Don't you hear, The Christian
makes me the English Consul, and am I not the English
Consul?" Was glad to escape from the subject in this
way, determined not to pursue it further, knowing the
bitter hatred it would create in the minds of the mer
chants against me, if the conversation got abroad. StUl
felt happy in having broached the subject, and attacked
their selfish feelings on the point. Government might
spend a few pounds out of the miUion per annum, (the
cost of the suppression on the Western Coast,) in buying
the co-operative influence of these Sheikhs, who hold
the keys of The Desert. There is no moral reason for
leaving one part of Africa a prey to this scourge, and
concentrating aU our efforts in another region of this
unhappy continent. I left the Sultan and Hateetah in
a good humour, after promising them some tobacco.
Hateetah showed me the leather piUow-case which
Shafou intended to send Her Majesty. Hateetah this
morning seemed to have got the Sultan's ear, but as
soon as the old gentleman returns to Khanouhen, aU the
English Consul's influence wiU evaporate in smoke.
11th. — CaUed upon the Governor and met there Haj
AbduUah of Bengazi. Persuaded him to wait tUl to
morrow and take me with him to Mourzuk. Then called
on Hateetah, who would not consent to this. He says,

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 125
" I must not go this way with a couple of people through
The Desert. I must go either with him or his brother
in the course of a few days, carrying the presents of
Shafou and a letter for the Queen." Agreed to this, it
being a matter of indifference whether I stopped a few
days longer or not, after waiting so long and to such
Uttle purpose. Was annoyed at my Soudan journey
being cut off in the middle, and sometimes thought I
would stiU risk it, or " go the whole hog." Perseverance
overcomes obstacles deemed by men impossibilities.
Hateetah evidently feels his importance, and besides
thinks he shall get a little more by my delay. He is
right, for Her Majesty's subjects don't ask for his pro
tection every day. The Governor pretends the Shanbah
muster 10,000 ! This ignorance must be voluntary, or
the assertion is made to render the approaching victory
of the Touaricks more terrible to my conception. An
Arab of Tripoli came here a few days ago and per
sonified himself as Abdullah, who was going to Bengazi,
asking me for an advance of money. Met him this
morning and accused him of his impudent imposture,
threatening to get him bastinadoed by the Pasha. The
Arabs are without question the worst class of people
who visit this mart of commerce. What they don't do
as brigands they attempt by fraud. Shaw tells us that,
in his time, they lay in ambush in the morning to attack
the strangers whom they had hospitably entertained the
previous evening. Some of them stiU most richly deserve
this character. The Touaricks are so alarmed at the
cold that there is no prospect of their marching out
against the Shanbah for weeks yet. Several Touarghee
camel-drivers will wait for the summer caravan before

126 THE GREAT DES1SKT.
they undertake the journey to Aheer, on which route
the cold is often severe at this season.
12th. — Occupied in reading Hebrew. Learnt a few
Touarghee words. Several Touaricks called to beg dates ;
"Bago," or "Not at home." Did not go out to-day.
13^. — CaUed upon Hateetah, who vexed me exceed
ingly again by begging. Her Majesty's Consul must
have a regular salary, or Her Majesty's subjects visiting
here will have no peace of their Uves. Told him to get
up his camels and prepare for our departure, and then I
would give him another backsheesh.
Afternoon, a messenger came from His Highness with
the Sultan's dagger in his hand, as guarantee that he
came from His Highness. This is usual in Ghat. Mr.
Duncan has mentioned in his Travels through Dahomy,
how he often received the King's stick as guarantee that
the messenger came from His Majesty. I inquired,
"What is the matter?"
He answered, " Shafou wishes a doUar or a holee
(barracan) ."
Not understanding this, I said, " To-morrow I wiU see."
The Messenger. — " Should I bring Shafou here to your
house ?"
" Yes, yes," I answered, very glad to have a visit from
the Sultan.
" Now ?"
" Yes, bring the Sultan at once," I continued.
In a few minutes, before I could guess or imagine what
was this strange business, I heard His Highness knock
ing at the door, who, with the messenger, immediately
ascended the terrace. The old gentleman, on entering
my room, refused my most pressing invitation to sit

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 127
down on the ottoman, preferring from sheer modesty to
sit upon a skin stretched on the floor. His Highness
sat silent a few minutes, looking very good-natured. As
we were quite alone, I embraced the opportunity of
speaking very plainly to the Sultan. " You see," I
observed, "our people are afraid to come here, not
knowing whether the Touaricks will kUl them or not.
Have you not power to prevent the lesser Sheikhs from
stopping Christians in The Desert, and threatening them
with bad language." " No," replied the Sultan, " I
cannot be everywhere. Some of my children think
themselves better than their father. They will talk and
have their own way*. But now, Yakob, we have all
agreed to protect you, why do you fear ?" " I don't
fear," I added, " but cannot something be done for the
protection of Christians through The Desert." " Here,"
said His Highness, " is the question. You return home,
you go to your Sovereign, for I have a secret to tell you."
" What is that ?" I demanded anxiously. " Up to now,"
said Shafou, mUdly and deliberately, "all the world
has paid us tribute. The merchants who come from
the east or west, north or south, aU pay us tribute.
But the English do not pay us tribute. How's this ?
You must teU your Sultana to pay us tribute, and speak
to her yourself." I promised I would if I had an
opportunity, not attempting to dispute a moment such
pretensions. I simply recoUected the Khan of Tartary,
who, after dining himself, went out and ordered his
servant to proclaim to all the monarchs of earth his
* HW* "Wri V3JO WH Judges xxi. 25. The conduct of the
Sheikhs and their tribes is much like that of the Israelites under
the Judges.

128 THE GREAT DESERT.
permission for them to dine, now that he had finished
his own dinner. I told His Highness, I thought I should
return next year; on which he said, "Well do, I'll con
duct you myself to Aheer." I then introduced the deli
cate subject of slavery. I observed, " The Sheikhs of
the Touaricks get very little from the merchants who deal
in slaves. If Your Highness should put an end to this
traffic, you would get more from us English." " Yes,
yes, that's what you said before," interposed the Sultan.
" Try us, then, bring the money; at present, the English
give us nothing." I mentioned to the Sultan that the
Bey of Tunis had abolished the traffic in slaves. " Yes,"
said the messenger to the Sultan, " it's true." The con
versation now dropped, and I did not understand what
was to be done further. The messenger made a sign
about the dollar. I had already folded up mechanically
a dollar in a piece of paper before the Sultan came in,
so I put this into the messenger's hand. I certainly
should have given the Sultan a dozen dollars if he had
asked me, but the old gentleman's wishes and wants were
few, and his modesty greater than these. His Highness now
got up, and shaking hands departed as pleased as Punch
with his dollar. I question whether His Highness ever
has any money ; Khanouhen is treasurer and everything
else. So I finished with the good-natured gentle crea
ture Shafou, having humbly presented The Sultan of aU
the Touaricks of Ghat with one dollar !
Just after Shafou left, the messenger wished to play
me a trick. He came running back, and said: — "See
this dagger, this belongs to Khanouhen; he says you
must give him half a dollar." I simply replied to the
fellow, "I know nothing about it." I was convinced

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 129
Khanouhen would never send such a message. I laughed
however at this fashion of sending about daggers. It
had something in it of the style of presenting a pistol to
a man's breast with the agreeable demand, "Your money
or your life."
Passing through the gardens, I fell accidentaUy into
conversation with a gardener. On mentioning, that if
God spared my life, I should go to Soudan next year, he
exclaimed : —
"What! do you know God?"
I. — "Yes, and aU Christians know God."
The Gardener. — " Why, then, are you an infidel ?"
I repeated, "AU Christians pray and know God;" and
left him puzzled out of his wits. Ghat townsmen are
beastly ignorant zealots, and confound Christians with
the Pagan Negroes of Central Africa, whom also they
call " Ensara." Since Negroes worship the " fetish," they
think also we don't know God. The Governor asked the
other day, if the children of Christians learnt to read
and write Uke his children, the noisy hum of their read
ing coming into the room whilst we sat talking. I might
have answered, "Some do," but used more general
phraseology, " Both boys and girls with us learn to read
and write." " My girls learn also," replied the Governor,
with an air of triumph. I was glad to see female educa
tion encouraged in Ghat by the Marabout, as it is also in
Ghadames. Touaricks are afraid, and distrust Arabs ; and Arabs are
afraid, and distrust Touaricks ; and both these are afraid
of, and distrust Turks. There is no mutual confidence
in these various Mahometan people. Nevertheless,
except the Shanbah incursions, everything goes on pretty
VOL. II. K

130 THE GREAT DESERT.
quietly, and I hear of no murders, or acts of violence, in
this region of The Sahara. There is certainly no Irish
or Indian Thuggism amongst Saharan barbarians.
lith. — The weather during these three days has been
fine, no wind (the horror of our people), and very warm.
Our departure is protracted from day to day. Time
may be money in England, here it is as valueless as the
sand of these deserts. Got up very early, as I some
times do, and went to see the Governor. I was alone.
In the distance (it was scarcely daylight), I saw a tall
figure looming, embodying forth. I continued, and it
neared me. This shadowy figure at length became
visibly formed, and expanded itself into the full stature
of Shafou, who was like myself all alone. His Highness
was as surprised to meet me as I was surprised to meet
him at this time of morning. Shafou stopped suddenly,
and then putting his hand to his tobacco pouch, which he
carried on his left arm, and without speaking, gave me
to understand that I had not sent the tobacco which I
had promised him. Indeed, I could not get it from Haj
Ibrahim. I addressed this sUent admonition of my for-
getfulness or short-coming, by saying, "Yes, I under
stand, I'll send the tobacco." His Highness then slowly
passed on, just raising his hand to salute me at parting,
but without uttering a word. Afterwards, called on
Hateetah, who had heard from the messenger about my
wonderful Uberality in giving a doUar to the Sultan, and
was very angry. " Who is Shafou ?" he peremptorily
asked. " He is nothing. You have given him a large pre
sent, and me very little. Now, if any body hurts you,
I shall be silent." I took no notice whatever of this
ungracious speech. A son of the Governor paid me a

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 131
visit on my return, and was very saucy, cabling me a
Kafer. I instantly turned Mm out of the house. Then
came in my young Touarghee friend, which was a posi
tive relief to me. I said : — " Are you not afraid to go
warring with the Shanbah ?" He answered me pathe-
ticaUy, prospectively submitting himself to the Divine
Decrees : — " If it be the wiU of God that I go warring
against the Shanbah, and fall and die there, what then ?
for so it is inscribed in the Book of Heaven." As to the
justice of the war, like our young soldiers, it never occu
pied his thoughts. He merely goes to war because his
master and prince goes to war. What would the Peace
Society say to him ?
People in Ghat have a very primitive way of making
bread. They place a large earthen cyUnder, with one of
the ends knocked out, upon the ground, and make it fast
with clay or mud mortar, Uke " setting a copper." This
always remains as much a fixture as a copper. When
they want to make bread, they fiU it fuU of lighted date-
palm branches, or other fuel. After the flame is ex
tinguished, and the wood ashes have faUen to the bottom,
the sides of the cylinder are heated red-hot. These sides
are now rubbed round with a green palm-branch, and
made clean. This done, the paste or dough is puUed and
made into small loaves like pancakes, and clapped on
the hot sides, until aU the surface is covered, the Uttle
cakes sticking on with great tenacity. The top of the
cylinder is now covered over to retain the heat. In a
few minutes the covering is removed, and the new-baked
bread is puUed or peeled off the sides of the fast-cooling
cylinder. But sometimes there is heat for baking two
batches of bread. Bread is frequently piled up, layer upon
k 2

132 THE GREAT DESERT.
layer, like pancakes, in a bowl, and a strong highly-seasoned
sauce with oil or liquid butter is poured upon it ; from
which bowl it is eaten, and called desh, or " the even
ing meal." Sometimes a number of very smaU pieces of
meat is placed on the pile of sopped bread ; but this is
a delicacy or luxury.
15^.— Went to call upon Hateetah, and met in the
way a son of Abd Errahman of Ghadames, who has
just returned from the oases of Touat. He describes
Ain Salah (or Ensalah), to be like the country where the
Governor of Ghat resides, that is to say, sandy and sur
rounded with sand heaps, but abundantly supplied with
water, as well as thickly populated. The oases of Touat
have unw ailed towns, or scattered hamlets, but the
country is perfectly secure. He gives the inhabitants
a good character; they are a mixture of Moors, Arabs,
Touaricks, Berbers, and Negroes, like nearly all the
oases in Central Sahara, or that portion of The Great
Desert, extending from the oases of Fezzan to the
Saharan towns of Arwan and Mabrouk, on the western-
route line of Timbuctoo. He thinks I might travel in
safety from Touat to Timbuctoo in summer, for during
the dry season the banditti cannot keep the open Desert.
Saw Hateetah, and gave him a doUar, which put him
into a better humour. Although the soi-disant Consul
of the English, and all the Christians who per hazard
visit Ghat, he displayed to-day the greatest ignorance of
the maxims and polity of Christian nations. I thought
it as well, since he assumed to be the Representative of
Her Majesty here in Ghat, just to remind him, (for I
thought I had told him before,) there was a Queen in
England, and that Her Majesty was his master. This

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 133
greatly shocked Her Majesty's Touarghee Consul, aud
he asked, " Whether the Queen cut off heads ?" I told
Her Majesty's Consul, the servants of Government
hanged murderers. The Touaricks have acquired these
sanguinary notions of cutting off heads, from the reports
of the Turkish and Moorish administration of justice.
Such barbarous practices do not exist amongst these
barbarians. He then demanded, "Should I go to England,
would the English seize me and beat me ?" This question
from the English Consul reaUy surprised me, whatever
I might have expected from others, the vulgar error of
Christians iU-using Moslems, being spread in Sahara.
People think, if they were to visit Europe, we should
capture them, beat them, and make them slaves. This
unfavourable opinion of us has descended from the
times of the Crusaders, when European Christians dis
played their zeal for Christianity — notwithstanding
its holy doctrines teach the forgiveness of injuries —
by butchering or enslaving Jews, Mahometans, and
heretics. Thank God, the chivalry of those days is
gone, though worse may yet come. To-day, a mob of
slaves, who idle about in the road to Hateetah, hooted
after me, and one of the biggest came upon me and
puUed hold of my coat. I could not let this pass, the
hooting I don't care about. So I fetched some people to
have the biggest feUow taken to Jabour. This we did
to frighten them, for after one of my friends gave him a
crack over the head, he was let off, promising to do so
no more. The lower Moors and Touaricks, both here
and at Ghadames, teach the slaves to caU Christians
kafer, "infidel." The blacksmiths, near Hateetah's house,
mostly salute me as I pass by them, with " There's no

134 THE GREAT DESERT.
God," &c. Sometimes they are extremely insolent. Any
resistance to this zeal for The Prophet, would be putting
your head into the fire. It would not be quite so bad
if I did not go out so much alone. I ought always to
have a good strong feUow, an Arab or Touarghee, with
me, a sort of physical-force argument against this moral
hooting, which is inteUigible everywhere, and more
especially in The Desert. But as I soon leave, I do not
wish to adopt any new measure, which would show want
of confidence in the people.
Evening visited my little queer friend Bel Kasem.
Found with him as usual his mighty lord, Khanouhen.
The Prince began to ridicule Hateetah and his brothers,
and scold me on the subject of presents : — " Yakob, if you
give those rascally brothers of Hateetah presents, I shall
have to spear you," clenching hold of his spear. "Keldb"
(dogs), said his jester, " they'll strip you of everything,
leaving you no bread, nor even a water-skin, to return
to Tripoli." I assured Khanouhen I had not given
Hateetah's brothers anything but a bit of sugar for some
of their chUdren. " Good," said the Prince. Khanouhen
now began in the style of un esprit fort: "Yakob, you're
a Marabout. Our Marabouts are aU rogues, and are
always exciting the people against us and our authority
(as Sultan). Are you such a rogue ?" Here was a
glimpse of another contest between the civU and spiritual
power in The Desert. I told the Sheikh I was no priest,
but a taleb. " Ah ! good," said the Prince, giving me
his hand. " But when you die, where are you going to ?
Are you and I going together on the same camel, or do
you take one route of The Desert and I another, with
different camels?" I replied, "What is the use of

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 135
such conjectures?" "Right," said the Prince, "don't
you remember (turning to Bel Kasem) that Wahabite
the people had here, and how they buffeted him about ?
Yakob, (turning to me) I saved a poor devil, a Wahabite,
from being kiUed by the mob in Ghat, and I'm ready to
save you. What's the good of kiUing a man for his
religion ?" I thanked the Prince for his noble feelings
of tolerance, and left him and his clown to their tete-a-
tete. Khanouhen is one of the few of those strong-
minded and right-thinking men, who see the utter folly
and direful mischief of forging a creed for the consciences
of his feUows. Had he been a Christian prince of the
times of Charles V., he would not, like that celebrated
monarch, have passed aU his Ufe in binding the religious
opinions of men in fetters, and then at the end of his
days, disgusted with his work, repented of his folly.
No, from the beginning of his career, Khanouhen would
have proclaimed and defended with his sword the liberty
of the human conscience in matters of religion.
16th. — A warm morning and hazy, but the much-
dreaded wind got up at noon. The departure of aU the
ghafalahs is now fixed for the 25th, and ours for 23rd.
The Rais of Ghadames has sent word for all his subjects
to return together ; this I'm sure they will not do. It
is extremely difficult to make up a large caravan. The
Soudan caravan is now departing in smaU detachments
of half a dozen people. Found Said crying to-day.
" What's the matter, Said ?" " You are going to Soudan,
the Touaricks wiU kiU you and cut you into bits, and I
shaU be again made a slave. I wish to return to Gha
dames with the Ghadamsee ghafalah." I had often
caught Said crying, and I imagine his grief came from

136 THE GREAT DESERT.
the same source. I now told him positively I was about
to return to Fezzan, and never observed him crying
afterwards. As at Ghadames, Said is here a great man
amongst the lady negresses, and spends all his money in
buying them needles and beads. Hateetah called and
scolded Said for crying, who had not yet dried his tears.
The Sheikh told him the Touaricks were better than the
Turks or Arabs; and I supported Hateetah by reminding
Said of what our friend Essnousee observed, " Targhee
elkoul zain, (all the Touaricks are good fellows)." I now
spoke to Hateetah seriously about devising some means
for stopping the progress of slave-caravans through the
country. He pretended that the profit derived from
the slave-caravans was infinitely greater than it is,
making it some one thousand dollars per annum ; he did
not think the Sheikhs would suppress it. " They had
carried it on always, and would for ever," he observed.
" But," he continued, and very justly, " stop it at Con
stantinople, or at Tripoli, and then it wiU be stopped
here." Hateetah is right. This is and must be our
plan, and I am happy to see that Lord' Palmerston has
made, during the present year, a most decisive effort
near the SubUme Porte, to get the demand for slaves cut
off at Tripoli and Constantinople, by the closing up of
the slave-markets. Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim.
The Haj was occupied in making under-garments for the
slaves he has purchased. Moors do strange things. It
is curious to see the richest and most extensively occupied
merchant of the Souk sewing up shirts and chemises for
his slaves.
1 7th. — Shafou left this morning for the country dis
tricts. The quiet old gentleman has had enough of the

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 137
bustle of the Souk, which still continues. His Highness,
before his departure, arranged for the Queen's letter and
the presents. Called early upon the Governor, and
found him in the house of Khanouhen, where there was
a fuU assembly of Sheikhs. I was obliged to talk
poUtics with them, which were translated as the conver
sation proceeded, by the Governor himself, to the
Sheikhs. I surprised them by telling them of the great
number of Mussulman troops employed by the French
in Algeira, and how the French Government paid all
the priests of religion, even Mussulmans. They ques
tioned me about, and I explained to them the existence
of deism in France and Europe. Now and then a
soUtary Mussulman deist may be found in North
Africa. But how few have courage enough to resist the
divine mission of The Prophet ! Still fewer question the
probability of a Revelation. In general conversation, I
have always despised the system of running down the
Algerian French, whilst travelling in these wilds. It
serves no earthly purpose, but to increase the arrogance
of the Moors and Arabs against Christians of all nations.
Whatever the conduct of the Algerian French, the con
quest may have a salutary influence upon Saharan
fanatics, though it increases the danger of the European
traveUer. The Moorish Governments of the coast de
serve much censure. They often foster and fan the
flame of fanaticism against European tourists. Besides,
the conduct of the Maroquines towards the Jews ought
not now to be permitted by the Governments of France
and England. A missionary to the Jews, (himself a
converted Jew,) who visited Tangier with me, could not
help exclaiming, on seeing how badly the native Jews

138 THE GREAT DESERT.
were treated, "God give the French success in Algeria!"
It is difficult for a philanthropic mind to suppress such
feelings, whatever our national prejudices, and how much
soever we may brand the Razzias as an indelible stigma
on European civilization. It would be better, and cer
tainly more just, to civilize North Africa by civilizing
the established Moorish Governments of The Coast. But
if The Coast is to fall under European domination, it is
to be hoped England will secure the Bay of Tunis for
shipping, and the Regency of Tripoli, as being the
natural route of Saharan commerce. The rest may be
safely left to France, excepting our old miUtary post of
Tangier, in order to maintain our influence through the
Straits of Gibraltar. The conversation of the Sheikhs
at length turned upon the Turks, and the country of Gog
and Magog — whence they came, whom we all agreed to
abuse as much as possible, since our antipathies were
pretty equal. The Sheikhs then began very naturally
to vaunt of their power in The Sahara, and I may em
brace this opportunity of giving some outline of the
Touarick nations of The Great Desert.
The Arab and Moorish writers of the middle ages,
as weU as the latest Saharan pilgrims, who have traveUed
The Desert from the shores of the Atlantic to the banks
of the NUe, have aU given us brief notices of the Touarick
nations; but they have sometimes confounded Touaricks
with strictly Berber tribes, and indeed, not without
reason, for apparently the Touarick and Berber tribes
are descended from one original famUy, or stock of
people. The fairest conclusion is, that they are the
descendants of the ancient Numidian tribes. The
Arabic terms employed here to name the Touaricks are

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 139
C-Jjly' plural and JiJ\y> singular. Vulgarly a Touarick
is called Targhee (J>y), by the Touaricks themselves,
as weU as by the Moors and Arabs. Indeed, Targhee
is the more correct name, and Touarghee is an en
larged Arabic form. So Leo Africanus speaks of these
tribes of The Desert as " Targa Popolo."
The extent of Sahara occupied by the Touaricks is
exceedingly great, embracing many thousands of miles.
The northern line begins at Ghadames, an hour's journey
south of that city. This line extends along the north,
south-west as far as Touat, and south-east as far as the
oases of Fezzan and Ghat. On the western side, pro
ceeding directly south, we find Touaricks on the whole
line of route as far as Timbuctoo; on the eastern side,
leaving Ghat, and journeying southward, they abound in
the populous districts of Aheer and Asbenouwa, as far as
Damerghou, the first purely Negro kingdom of Negro
land. On the south, they are scattered in viUages and
towns, or wandering in tribes, along the north banks of
The Niger. I have not heard of their being located
on the southern banks of the great river of Soudan, nor
do they descend the Niger to the Atlantic, for we hear
nothing of them in Noufee or Rabbah. But they are
scattered higher up through the extensive provinces of
Housa, subjected to the FuUans.
In The Sahara, comprehended by these immense lines,
they have some large cities and agricultural districts.
The principal of them are Ghat, Aheer, and Aghadez, in
the east, Touat and Timbuctoo, in the west. We have
the three principal cities of Ghat, Aheer, and Aghadez,
besides numerous villages, in Western Sahara, entirely
under the authority of the Touaricks. Everywhere they

140 THE GREAT DESERT.
inhabit the agricultural districts of the open desert. I
have not heard of Touaricks on the western line of the
Atlantic Ocean. Captain Riley speaks only of wander
ing Arabs, almost in a wild state. On the eastern line of
The Desert, they do not extend beyond the western limits
of the oases of Fezzan, and the southern Tibboo coun
tries. The names of the great sections of the Touaricks,
as far as I have been able to learn, are, —
1st. The Azghar— Jjj\ — of Ghat.
2nd. The Haghar—Jxi> — of Touat.
3rd. The Kylouy* — is^S — of Aheer.
4th. The Sorghou — y^-o — of Timbuctoo.
The Sorghou is the Timbuctoo name which is given
to them by Caillie, and probably this is not a distinct
section from that of the Hagharf. There are some lofty
ranges of mountains between Ghat and Touat called also
Haghar, the nucleus of these tribes, and whose Sultan is
the Gigantic Bassa. Besides, we have the Touaricks of
Fezzan, a very small section and distinct from those of
Ghat, and who may be considered the pastoral people,
the veritable Arcadians of the oases. All these sections
have their respective Sultans, and the Sultans their
respective subordinate Sheikhs, governing the respective
subdivision of territory and tribes of people. The sub
divisions of Ghat tribes are the foUowing: — Tinilleum,
Aiaum, Dugarab, Sacana, Dugabakar, Auragan, Mua-
satan, Ghiseban, Elararan, Filelen, Francanan, Bo-
tanetum, Skinimen, Deradrinan, Mucarahsen, Keltrubran,
* Sometimes called, Killiwah.
t Different Negro tribes call Touaricks by different names.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 141
Keltunii, Chelgenet, Ilemtein*. These various sections
of Touaricks, who wander through the vast wUderness of
Sahara, or are located in its oases, may be distin
guished by some general characteristics, agreeing with
and arising from their peculiar location, or habits of
trade and life. The Touaricks of Timbuctoo are the
more faithless and sanguinary in their disposition, and
less addicted to commerce or a regular mode of life.
Those of Ghat represent the Touarghee character in its
most original type, these tribes being a brave and hardy
people, reserved and using few words in speech, of a
noble chivalric disposition, and carrying on some com
merce. Those of Touat, I imagine, are the same style
of people, from what few of them I saw at Ghadames ;
but those of Aheer are more effeminate and milder in
their manners, and are a good deal mixed with the
Negro nations of Soudan. The Touaricks of Aheer bear
an excellent character as traders, and companions of
travel, always assisting the stranger first at the well,
before their own camels are watered. They seem,
besides, mostly addicted to the peaceful pursuits of com
merce, if we except their occasionaUy joining in the
Razzias for slaves. A Ml third of the traffic of the
South-eastern Sahara is in their hands, or under their
control. I may add a few words upon their country and
chief places, Aheer and Aghadez.
Aheer, or Ahir, j*?c\, and which is often incorrectly
spelt on the maps Air, is the name of a town and very
* These names are but imperfectly given, and they must be pro
nounced in Italian style, being written from the dictation of a
Targhee chief by Mr. Gagliuffi, according to that language. To
these may be added Haioun, a tribe of Marabouts.

142 THE GREAT DESERT.
populous district, including within its territory or juris
diction the city of Aghadez. Aheer is also called
Azben, and its district Azbenouwa ((^jJ — *>*o0>
which appear to have been the more ancient names.
The town of Aheer is also called Asouty, (^Joy^), on
the maps Asouda, the dentals io and J being con
vertible. These districts are bounded on the north by
Ghat and its tribes ; on the east by the Tibboo country
and Bornou, on the west by the Negro, Touarick and
FuUan countries of the north banks of the Niger; and
on the south, by the Housa districts, vulgarly caUed by
merchants, Soudan. Aheer is forty short days from
Ghat, the Soudanese merchants who visit the Ghat mart
always travelling much more doucement and in jog-trot
style than the Moorish and Arab merchants of the north.
The line of the Aheer stations measures about thirteen
days, from Tidik in the north to Toktouft in the south *.
In this portion of the route, and that previous to arriving
at Tidik, there are twenty days of mountains. The Aheer
route also abounds with springs and fine streams, which
gush out from the base of rock-lands of great height,
and some of which form considerable rivers for several
months in the year, on whose banks corn and the senna-
plant are cultivated. Aheer is the Saharan region of
senna, where there are large wadys covered with its
crops. The exportation, especially after a season of rain,
is very great and profitable. Asouty is the principal
town of the Aheer districts, and was formerly the capital
of all the Kylouy Touaricks. No less than a thousand
houses are now seen abandoned and in ruins. Here in
former times all the Soudan trade was carried on and
* For the rest of the Stations see the Map.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 143
concentrated; its population is still considerable. The
houses are nearly all constructed of hasheesh, or straw
huts, and the city is without walls. Nevertheless, the
people still honour it with the title of Blad es-Sultan,
" City," or " Country of the Sultan," that is, where the
Sultan occasionally resides, answering to our Royal
city. Aheer is the rendezvous of the salt-caravan of BUma,
in the Tibboo country, situate, almost in a straight line,
about ten days east, the route to which is over barren
stony ground. A curious story is told of the manner in
which the camel-drivers supply themselves with forage
over this treeless, herbless, naked waste. On their way
to BUma, they leave at certain places or stations a
quantity of forage to supply them on their return ; and
it is said, the deposit is sacred, no one daring to touch
it. It is probable, however, that the forage is concealed
in hiding-places, as wells are often hidden along some
desert routes. Even in the Tunisian Jereed, the sources
of water are frequently concealed, a skin being placed
over the water with palm-branches laid thereupon, and
the top of the well's mouth covered with sand. So that
a hapless traveller may perish of thirst with water under
his feet ! Through the hunting-districts of South Africa.
amongst the Namaquas, the sources of water are con
cealed in a simUar manner. However, a short time ago,
the people of Bornou, who were then at war with the
Touaricks of Aheer, discovered the hiding-places of the
Touaricks' forage, carried off or destroyed the supplies,
and reduced a large salt-caravan to the greatest ex
tremities ; hundreds of camels perished from hunger.
These salt-caravans are sometimes a thousand and two

144 THE GREAT DESERT.
thousand strong. The greater part of Housa and the
neighbouring provinces is supplied with salt from
Bilma. Aghadez, jAs\, is the capital of the Aheer districts.
This is the residence of the Sultan of the Touaricks of
South-eastern Sahara. The present Sultan is called
Mazouwaja, ([&\}yc) who is represented as a friendly
prince. But it was En-Nour (jyi\), deputy Sultan of
Aheer, to whom I wrote before leaving Ghat, begging
his protection in the event of my return, to complete
the tour to Soudan. Aghadez is now as large as Tripoli,
or containing from eight to ten thousand inhabitants.
In a past period it was four times as large. A great
number of the people have emigrated to Soudan, where
less labour is required to till the soU, and nature is more
lavish in her productions. Aghadez is a walled city,
but without any particular strength ; the houses are but
one story high, buUt of mud and stone, and sun-dried
bricks. Aghadez abounds in provisions of the most
substantial kind, that is, sheep, oxen, and grain. The
government is despotic, but the lesser chiefs have great
power in their respective districts, like those of Ghat.
The reUgion of the people is Mahometan ; not a Pagan,
Jew, or Christian, is found within these districts. Trade
is carried on to a great extent, and Moorish merchants
visit Aghadez, proceeding no further towards Soudan.
The most interesting district near Aghadez is that of
Bagzem, ^y.j, (or Magzem, the labials i__, and - being
convertible,) consisting of an exceedingly lofty mountain,
requiring a fuU day's journey for its ascent. This moun
tain figures on the map under the ancient name of
Usugala Mons, but for what reason God knows. The

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 145
town is placed a good way towards its loftiest heights,
the most of which heights are both cultivated and inha
bited, and there is abundance of trees, grain, and fruits.
Bagzem is three days' journey from Asouty.
I shaU take the Uberty of appending the account
given of Aheer and Aghadez by Leo Africanus : —
Diserto dove abita Targa Popolo.
II terzo diserto incomincia da'confini di Air dal lato
di ponente, e s'estende fino al diserto d'lghidi verso
Levante ; e di verso tramontana confina con li diserti di
Tuat e di Tegorarin e di Mezab; da mezzogiorno, con li
diserti vicini al regno di Agadez. Questo diserto non e
cosi aspro e crudele, como sono i due primieri : e truova-
visi acqua buona, e pozzi profondissimi ; massimamente
vicino ad Air, nel quale e un temperato diserto e di
buono aere, dove nascono molte erbe : e piu oltre, vicino
di Agadez, si truova assai manna, che e cosa mirable ; e
gli abitatori vanno la mattina pertempto a raccorlo, e ve
n'empiono certe zucche; e vendonla cosi fresca nella
citta di Agadez ; e un fiasco che tien un boccale val due
bajocchi; beesi mescolata con acqua ; ed e cosa per-
fettissima : la mescolano ancora nelle minestre, e rinfresca
molto : penso che per tale cagione li forestieri rade volte
s'ammalano in Agadez, come in Tombutto, ancorche vi
sia aere pestifero. Questo diserto s'estende da tramon
tana verso mezzogiorno trecento migha. — Sixth Part,
lvi. chap.
It wUl be observed, that under the name of Targa
Popolo, no mention is made of the Touaricks of Ghat.
Indeed, all the notices of the Renegade Tourist on this
VOL. II. L

146 THE GREAT DESERT.
part of Africa, are extremely meagre and unsatisfac
tory. As to his divisions of The Sahara into so many
deserts, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, &c, this is all arbitrary and most
unnatural. The story about the abundance of manna
gathered in the districts of Aheer, seems to have been
invented to please the Christian doctors of Rome ; at any
rate, nothing of the kind is now seen or known at
Aghadez. But with respect to foreigners who visit
Aheer and Aghadez enjoying good health, I have no
doubt the Renegade is correct, for I have not heard
of either of these places being unhealthy, their
salubrity arising, we may imagine, from the elevation at
which they are placed. The Aheer Saharan region is
emphatically mountainous.
Afternoon, visited Hateetah, who has made up his
mind to accompany me to Fezzan, of which I'm glad, not
wishing to meet with any more Ouweeks in this neigh
bourhood. Was pleased this morning to observe
amongst the children of Haj Ahmed, who were busy
reading passages from the Koran, several girls. This
circumstance raises my opinion of the Governor. No
doubt it is because he is a Marabout that he grants this
privUege to his daughters. The Marabout has no less
than a dozen small children, of all complexions, features,
and hues, from Uly white to sooty black. My sweetest
enjoyment in Ghat is to listen to the song of the tiny
singing sparrows hopping about my terrace. My days of
chUdhood return with their song, when, if I were not
innocent, a little matter made me happy. Sing on you
pretty little things, tune your wild Saharan notes, for
you gladden my sad heart !
18th. — A fine warm sunny day. The departure of

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 147
the ghafalah is now fixed for the 27th. According to
some accounts, 8000 Touaricks are being mustered, to
march against the Shanbah. The Touaricks evidently
expect the robber tribe to be reinforced from Souf and
the Warklah districts, or the robbers must number
5000 instead of 500. Haj Ibrahim tells me, he has
just read a letter addressed by the Pasha of TripoU to the
united Sheikhs of Ghat, offering them assistance against
the robber tribe. The Touaricks have politely declined
the proffered aid, feeling strong (and wise) enough to
manage their own battles. Not much troubled with
visitors lately, one now and then. The Touaricks are
leaving Ghat to reinforce the new levies of troops. Soon
the town wUl be emptied of Touaricks. The Ghadamsee
ghafalah is returning, and a smaU one to Tripoli vid
Shaty and Misdah.
Haj Ibrahim continues to repeat his story about the
people of Ghadames having a great deal of money
hoarded up. I visited him this morning, and found him
surrounded with a group of Soudanese merchants. The
large court-yard of his house was fuU of bales of unsold
goods, here and there scattered about, and some un
packed, all in the most business-like disorder. In one
quarter was a cluster of a dozen slaves, waiting to be
bartered for, the poor wretches being huddled up to
gether in this private mart of human flesh. The Moor
was calm and collected amidst the dirt and noise of
Kanou and Succatou merchants, who with violent
gestures were disputing the progress of the bargain inch
by inch. Here was a great assortment of rubbish, for I
can't caU very coarse paper, green baize cloth, glass and
earthen composition beads, bad razors, and a few common
h 2

148 THE GREAT DESERT.
woollens, and some very inferior raw silk, merchandize.
And such rubbish was offered in exchange for a group of
God's creatures, with his divine image stamped upon
them! At length the progress of the bargain came to
what might be called a crisis. The Soudanese merchants
jumped up suddenly, with shouts and curses, as if they
had discovered a perfidious fraud, and rushed to the
door, pulling their miserable slaves after them. I felt
shocked at the sight, and my horror must have been
depicted in my countenance. For Haj Ibrahim, who
well knew I disapproved of this traffic, said to me
angrily, " Why do you come here now ?" I got out of
his way as quick as I could, but did not leave the house.
The people of the Moor followed hard after the runaway
merchants, seizing first hold of their slaves, dragging
them back by main force into the court-yard. Then
their owners raised a hideous cry, calling Haj Ibrahim
and his people " thieves," and "robbers," and "cheats,'
and "accursed," and many other similar compliments in
the way of slave-dealing. This would make a nice
counter-picture to a sketch of one of those Congressional
squabbles which so frequently take place on the presen
tation of Anti-Slavery petitions to the American Con
gress, when there is an occasional flourish of the bowie-
knife, and a good deal of expectoration to damp the
ardour of the combatants, fighting over the victims of
Republican Tyranny. After this came a cessation of
every kind of noise, for Haj Ibrahim, disgusted with the
business, (he was a fair-dealing man though a slave-
dealer,) said to Omer, his Arab servant : — " Tell them to
be off, and take their slaves with them." Now inter
posed a merchant of Ghat, and a friend of the Sou-

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 149
danese, who thus upraided them : — " Fools that you
are ! Do you think Haj Ibrahim is a cheat ? Haj
Ibrahim gets nothing by you ; Haj Ibrahim buys your
slaves, because Haj Ibrahim will not be at the expense of
carrying his goods back again to Tripoli." The mer
chants replied, and I dare say with truth : — " You told
us 300, now there are only 200 ; 20 of this, and only
10; 50 of that, and only 20," &c. This Ghatee was a
broker, and a species of sharper; he had been impu
dently imposing on the Housa merchants. But, to cut a
long story short, the bargain was finally arranged. Haj
Ibrahim made these quondam merchants a present of some
almonds and parched peas, "to wet the bargain." The
poor slaves had been dressed up for the sale, and, with other
ornaments, large bright iron hoops had been hammered
round their ancles. It was a tough job to get them off,
and a blacksmith only could do it. Haj Ibrahim called
each new slave to him, and looked at their features, in order
to know them. This he told me he was obliged to do,
to be sure of his own slaves, and prevent quarrels
with other merchants, for the slaves often get mixed
together. During Souk there is going on some petty thieving,
mostly done by the Negro slaves and Arab camel-
drivers. They have stolen many little things from me.
It is useless to complain. One must take care of one's
things. But I am informed the Touaricks never steal.
At any rate, large bundles of senna are left out in the
suburbs, night after night, and in the open fields amongst
the sand, and no one touches a leaf of it. This could
neither be done in Tunis, nor in Tripoli. The Touaricks
are beggars, but not thieves ; they will also beg hard and

150 THE GREAT DESERT.
with authority. Rarely, however, wiU a Touarghee take
anything away from you without your knowledge. So, if
Touaricks are poor, they are honest, which is so seldom
the case, poverty exciting as much or more to crime than
exuberant wealth. On the whole, this country must be
considered free from crime. Hungry slaves pUfering
about, can hardly be designated crime. I saw a little
slave to-day, who had just been brought from Aheer : he
was roUing naked on the sand, with some fresh green
blades of wheat before him. These he was devouring, and
this was his food. How can human beings fed this way
be expected to refrain from stealing food when they have
an opportunity ? The Touaricks of Aheer, though not
cruel masters, feed their slaves mostly on herbage, which
is picked up en route. At least, so the people teU me.
Afternoon, the aged Berka paid me a visit. I gave
him his tobacco, or that which I had promised him.
Whenever you promise a person anything in this country,
in reminding you of it, if you forget your promise, he
caUs the article his own, and demands it as a right.
Berka can hardly move about, he is so very old a man ;
I should say the Sheikh is upwards of a hundred. The
Saharan veteran made no observation in particular. He
replied to my questions about Saharan travelling : —
" Don't fear, the Touaricks wUl do you no harm. You
can go to Timbuctoo in safety." I was making ghusub
water, and asked him to drink of it. " No," he said,
smUing with benignity, " you must drink ghusub water
with me, not I with you. This is the fashion of us
Touaricks." Ghusub water, is water poured on ghusub
grain after the grain has been par-boUed or otherwise
prepared. A milky substance oozes from the grain, and

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 151
makes a very cooUng pleasant beverage. Saharan mer
chants prize the ghusub water chiefly for its cooUng
quaUty in summer. A few dates are pounded with the
ghusub to give the drink a sweeter and more unctuous
taste. The aged Sheikh, on taking leave, begged a little
bit of white sugar. "I wish to give it to my little grand
son," he added. I question which was the more childish,
he or his little grandson, so true it is the intellect decays
as it grows, spite of our theories of the immortality
of mind. I have now had visits from all the great
chieftains of the Ghat Touaricks, Shafou, Jabour, Berka,
and Khanouhen. The three former are the heads of the
great divisions of confederated tribes. These centres of
the large tribes and famUies separately constitute an
oUgarchical nobUity, by which the destinies of this Saha
ran world are governed.

152

CHAPTER XXI.
CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.
Parallels between The Desert and The East. — The Divine Warranty
for carrying on the Slave Trade discussed. — Visit from Aheer
and Soudanese Merchants, and present state of Soudan. — Form
of the Cross on Touarick Arms. — Boy taught to curse The
Christian. — Medina Shereefs opinion on my giving Presents. —
A Negress begs in the name of Ouweek. — Visit to the Governor
and Hateetah. — Streams of Water and Corn-Fields in the Fabled
Region of Saharan Desolation. — Kandarka wiU recommend me
to his Sultan. — Parallel things between Africa and Asia. —
Atkee turns out a Scamp. — Visit from Berka.- — Arabic is the
Language of Heaven. —Khanouhen ridicules Hateetah to his
face. — Hospitality of the Governor towards me, and interesting
Conversations with him. — Moorish reckoning of Time clashes
with mine. — Medina Shereef turns Beggar like the rest. — Meet
The Giant begging at Haj Ibrahim's. — Affecting Case of the
cruelty of one Slave to another, and compared to the Jews of
Morocco. — Chorus Singing of the Slaves. — Mode in which Os
triches are Hunted. — Arrival of Senna and Ivory from Aheer. —
Christians are not Liars. — Farewell Visit from Jabour. — Quick
Route to Timbuctoo from Ghat. — Kandarka turns Comedian,
and satirizes the Touaricks of Ghat. — Mercantile Transactions
of the Governor. — Want of a strong Government in The Desert.
— Assemblage of the Sheikhs, and preparations for War.
19th. — Did not go out to-day, but amused myself
with noting down in the journal several paraUel things
between The Desert and The East, which are mentioned
in The Scriptures,
" And she said, As the Lord thy God liveth, I have
not a cake, but an handful of meal in a barrel, and a
little oil in a cruse: and, behold, I am gathering two

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 153
sticks, that I may go and dress it for me and my son,
that we may eat it, and die." (1 Kings xvii. 12.) We
have in Sahara paraUel ideas to all and every part of this
simple and affecting discourse. The widow speaks with
an oath. When anything particular and extraordinary
is to be said or done, the people of Sahara must use an
oath. The meal is the barley-meal of our people; the
oil is used to cook it as we cook our bazeen. The sticks
are gathered from The Desert every day to dress our
food. The blank and absolute resignation of the woman
is the same with every one here, not excepting those of
immoral lives.
" And lo in her mouth was an oUve-leaf plucked off,"
(Gen. viii. 11.) " And Noah began to be a husbandman,
and he planted a vineyard," (Gen. ix. 20.) The olive and
the vine are stUl the choice fruit-trees in North Africa,
and were the Mussulmans a wine-drinking people, the
country would be covered with vineyards. In the beau
tiful parable of Jotham, (Judges ix. 8 — 15,) the third,
and the three choicest trees of North Africa are sepa
rately mentioned, the oUve, the fig-tree, and the vine.
These are the only fruits valued or cultivated by Tripo
Une Arabs in their mountains. The jennah or " paradise"
of the Koran is also planted with "palm trees and
vines." "And Asahel was as Ught of foot as a wild roe."
(2 Sam. ii. 18.) In this way Arabs speak of one
another. Every person who is conversant with Eastern
pictures and scenes in Arabic has met with a scrap of
poetry of some sort or other, in which the Arab woos
his mistress, by comparing her loved eyes to the fine
dark full eye of the gazeUe. An Arab also, like us

154 THE GREAT DESERT.
Europeans, caUs a cunning feUow "an old fox," and
stupid feUow " a donkey."
" And it came to pass, in an evening tide, that David
arose from off his bed, and walked upon the roof of the
king's house ; and from the roof he saw a woman wash
ing herself, and the woman was very beautiful to look
upon." (2 Sam. xi. 2.) Everybody now knows, or
ought to know, that the roofs of Barbary and Saharan
houses are flat, where the people walk and enjoy "the
cool of the evening," or " the evening tide" after getting
up from their naps or siestas. Here the women gossip
and the men pray, but the latter are often disturbed in
their devotions by the intruding glimpses of some Desert
beauty. Love-matches and intrigues are equaUy con
certed here on house-tops. The flat-roofed house-top, as
before observed, is the Ghadamsee woman's entire world;
here she Uves, and moves, and has her being.
"Woe to thee, 0 land," &c, "And thy princes eat in
the morning." (Ecclus. xi. 16.) The principal meal is
in the evening, and no people of these countries think of
eating a hearty meal " in the morning" like what Euro
peans are accustomed to eat in the morning. To eat a
hearty meal in the morning would be an act of down
right gluttony. Here, then, is strikingly brought out
the sense of this passage of the Preacher's wisdom.
"We wiU not drink of the waters of the weU."
(Numbers xxi. 22.) The Israelites being a numerous
host, were obliged to make this promise, for if aU had
drank, they would soon have emptied the weUs, and left
the people of the country without water, and their flocks
and cattle to die of thirst. The caravans now returning
to Ghadames are obliged to go in very small numbers,

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 155
that they may not exhaust the wells. Having many
slaves with them more water is required, which they
cannot in any way dispense with. The Israelites
renewed their promises about the drinking of the water
to other people, through whose country they had to
pass. "He saith among the trumpets, Ha, ha!" (Job
xxxix. 25.) It is very odd that the horsemen of
Morocco, when they gaUop to the charge, always cry
"Ha, ha!" *So the Arabian poet of The Book of Job
puts the wUd cry of the rider into the mouth of the
horse whom he rides. This I frequently witnessed on
the parade of Mogador. The wild cavalry of Morocco
is the boldest idea transmitted to us of the ancient
Numidian horse. In Morocco the horse is both the
sacred animal and the bulwark of the empire; for this
reason it is the Emperor prohibits the exportation of
horses. Even the barley, on which the horses are gene
raUy fed, is not aUowed to be exported for the same
reasons. vnxb onny -qj; yni -vna *idwi
"And he said, Cursed be Canaan; a servant of ser
vants shaU he be to his brethren." (Gen. ix. 25.) This
portion of Scripture wUl occur naturaUy enough to the
mind of a biblical reader, who takes up his residence for
some weeks at a slave-mart, and is seeing slaves bought
and sold every day. It is the famous and much abused
text of the slave-dealers of the last three centuries, and
is now continuaUy quoted in the pulpits of the United
States parsons, who, like the devU himself, quote
Scripture to support the wickedness of themselves and

156 THE GREAT DESERT.
their slave-holding and man-seUing countrymen. The
most approved commentators properly apply the text to
the Canaanites, whom Providence afterwards dispossessed
of their territories in Palestine, and gave them to the
children of Shem, and so the Canaanites became the
slaves of the Shemites for a limited period. But to
prove that it does not refer to the Negroes of North and
Central Africa, I may be aUowed to produce the following
reasons : —
1 st. Of aU the children of Ham, Canaan only is men
tioned. 2nd. The prophecy was fulfiUed in the descendants
of Canaan, and there is no occasion to extend it beyond
the early history of the Jews, when they took possession
of the land of Canaan, and reduced its people to ser
vitude. 3rd. The descendants of Canaan were all white people,
and the Negroes I need not say are black. But if it be
a question of colour, there are red Indians and black
Indians, who have been from unknown ages the sons of
freedom, and who, when discovered, would not and could
not be reduced to slavery. I guess the Yankees have
not reduced the Indians to slavery, (although, after
robbing them of their hunting-grounds, they have in the
most Christian spirit exterminated many,) on the con
trary, they are equaUy free men with the Yankees, and
have the same privUege of reducing free men to slavery
with their Republican neighbours. The Black Indians,
following the precept and example of the White Repub
licans, have now an immense number of slaves; and in
this case, it is not the more civilized who holds his feUow
man in bondage, but the less civiUzed, indeed, savages.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 157
So the world is improving and progressing in the Western
Hemisphere ! The Southern Ocean is peopled with
many tribes as black as Negroes. But to return to the
Canaanites, they at length mixed with the Israelites and
became one people, and the relations of master and slave
were lost in equality.
4th. Many of the descendants also of Cush were
white people, for he was the father of Nimrod, who
founded Babylon, and became the father of all the
Babylonians. Were the Babylonians Negroes ?
5th. None of the children of Ham, but Canaan, be
came servants or rather slaves to the rest of the human
race in any remarkable degree, during the early period
of the Mosaic world. For,
Cush was the aUeged father of the Babylonians and
the Ethiopians, (the people of Upper Egypt,) but neither
of these nations were slaves to conquerors more than
any other people of that period of the world; whilst, on
the other hand, the Babylonians were great conquerors
in their day, and the Ethiopians had princes of their
own even down to the days of Solomon. If now the
Abyssinians are to be considered the descendants of the
Ethiopians, we aU know they are not slaves, but like the
Yankee States themselves, slave-dealers and slave-holders.
The Abyssinians, moreover, enjoyed advantages of civili
zation when a great portion of Europe was overwhelmed
with barbarism. So much for the Cushites and Ethio
pians, the lineal descendants of the accursed Ham !
Mizraim was the father of the Egyptians. These
ancient and celebrated people, whose country was the
cradle of civilization, cannot surely be branded as the

158 THE GREAT DESERT.
slaves of the human race ! This was also the lineal
descendant of the accursed Ham !
6th. But even the Canaanites, so far from remaining
slaves, after the alleged curse was fulfilled in them,
recovered from their degradation and rose into conse
quence, filling the world with their fame. The children
of Canaan were undoubtedly the founders of Tyre, whose
bold navigators, braving the ocean and the tempest,
scoured and ploughed up the waters of the Mediterranean,
planting colonies everywhere, and founded Carthage !
The Carthaginians, their more renowned sons, passed
the Straits of the columns of Hercules, doubled Cape
Spartel, and some say, coasted the entire continent of
Africa, returning by the Red Sea. It is monstrous to
call such people slaves, branded by the hereditary curse
of the inebriated patriarch of mankind. In truth, of
all the people of antiquity, the accursed and enslaved
race of Ham were the most free-born, enlightened, and
enterprising ! Never was such a perversion of Scripture
interpretation to palliate and bolster up the systems of
wickedness of this and former days ! ShaU we compare
the Model Republic and the miserable and degraded
nations of Brazils, Spain, and Portugal, the present
enslavers of the alleged posterity of Ham, with the once
mighty Egyptians and Carthaginians ?
7th. But it may be said that Central Africa was
peopled from Cush or Ethiopia, and that this Cush, who
peopled that portion of the Continent, was the son of
Ham. To this I have already replied, that the curse
was pronounced not on Cush, but on Canaan his brother,
and it is arguing in a circle to extend the subject. After

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 159
all, we are not sure that Central Africa, and the western
coast, the theatre of the principal trade, was peopled
from Ethiopia. Where is the proof? And besides,
Central Africa, the bond fide Negroland, possesses states
and powerful confederacies, whom no power in Europe or
America has yet been able to subjugate to slavery.
8th. The Africo-European slave-trade is only of ex
tremely modern date. It is too late to look for the
fulfilment of this prophecy amongst the European trans
actions of the last three or four centuries, in this and
any particular reference to Africa. But finally, up to
a late period, slavery was co-extensive with the human
race, in aU times, ages, and countries. All classes and
races of men were made slaves alike, without any relation
to Africa and Africans. The Greeks and Romans, if
they made slaves of Africans, did not so enslave them
because they were Africans, for these ancient people
made slaves of aU, and even of their own countrymen,
it being a constituent element of their society.
I have omitted purposely to question the Divine com
mission of the Yankee parsons to uphold slavery as the
basis of their Republic. But it is difficult not to ques
tion the right of an incensed father, awakening from a
drunken debauch, to condemn an innocent grandson (for
what we know) to everlasting slavery and degradation.
With regard to the word AovXos, Boulos, used in the
Greek Testament to denote either a slave or a servant,
there can be no doubt of the application of the term to
both these relations of ancient society. The word corre
sponds to "Di? in the Hebrew, and *x>.£ in the Arabic, both
being the same consonants, which terms are used, accord
ing to their application, to denote both slaves and servants.

160 THE GREAT DESERT.
Slavery existed amongst the Jews as amongst the Greeks
and Romans, in the beginning of the Christian era ; so
we have allusions to " the bond and the free," as well as
"the Greeks and the Barbarians," the former phrase
distinguishing slaves and free men, the latter, nations of
arts and science from those of unciviUzed or semi-civiUzed
people. The question is not, then, the meaning of the
term Doulos, or its application to slavery at the period
of the promulgation of the Christian religion; but, whe
ther, because slavery was not then reprobated by the
teachers of Christianity, it was not therefore a very great
evil. First of aU, there are many things of ancient
society not reproved or reprobated by the founders of
Christianity, which are inconvenient to, and inconsistent
with, our moral sense, and which would violate the laws
of modern society. Such are the laws and customs of
usury and polygamy. No man in his senses would
attempt to establish polygamy in modern society, because
it is not prohibited and condemned by the writers of the
New Testament. To argue, therefore, that slavery is con
genial with the spirit of the Christian religion because it is
not condemned by its apostles and evangelists, is an utterly
fallacious system of reasoning. But even supposing the
apostles themselves practised slavery, and received into
their communion slave-holders, men-dealers and men-
stealers, it does not therefore follow that we should
imitate them, and become men-stealers likewise. What
was good or right for them and their state of society,
may not be good or right for us and our society. The
liberties of mankind require to be guarded in these our
days by the most intense hatred, and the broadest and
clearest denunciations of slavery, in every shape and

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 161
mode of its developement. But let any people imbibe the
spirit of Christianity, and slavery cannot exist amongst
them ; let aU nations imbibe the spirit of Christianity,
and slavery would become immediately extinguished
throughout the world.
20th. — A fine morning ; the Desert around is fair and
bright, save where the Black Mountains are casting their
mysterious shades. Visited by some Succatou merchants,
amongst whom were several Touaricks of Aheer. The
Housa people and Aheer Touaricks both speak the Housa
language, these Touaricks having abandoned their Berber
dialect so far as I can learn. It is also difficult to dis
tinguish the one people from the other when they wear
the litham. One is nearly as dark as the other, but
the features of the Touaricks are much more, and often
quite in the style of Europeans. A few of the Aheer
merchants are also, I have observed, tolerably fair. How
different are the airs and consequence of these merchants,
and some of them pure Housa Negroes, from the slaves
which they lead into captivity ; they talk, and laugh,
and feel themselves on a level with us, whilst their slaves
are moody and sUent, without confidence, and slink away
from observation. Such is the impress of slavery on
men in whose veins runs the same blood as our own.
The Soudanese merchants gave me some account of the
reigning Sultans. Ali is the Sultan of Succatou, and
succeeded the famous Bello, to whom Clapperton was
dispatched in his last mission. Daboo is the Sultan of
Kanou, and Ghareema, Sultan of Kashna, but both sub
jected to the Succatou Sultan. Besides these cities, the dis
tricts of Beetschee, Kaferda, Kasada, Sabongharee, Ghou-
ber, DeU, Yakoba and Noufee, besides other provinces,
VOL. II. M

162 THE GREAT DESERT.
including a vast extent of territory, are subjected to the
Fullan dynasty of Succatou. But it is extremely difficult
to get correct information from these Soudanese mer
chants, though dealing and traveUing through all the
Housa and neighbouring countries : as to the names of
the princes, they could not recollect them. There are
also frequent dethronements of the petty princes.
21st. — I do not go out much now, except in the
evening ; I grow weary of the place. A young Aheer
Touarick caUed. I never refuse admittance to Aheer
merchants because they are so weU behaved, and appa
rently not fanatical. He offered me a straight broad
sword for five small doUars ; it is quite new, having the
handle made in the form of a cross and of hard wood,
with a leathern scabbard. The blade was made in
Europe. The Touarick dagger-hilts are also made in
the shape of a cross. There is besides a Malta cross
usuaUy cut on the buUocks-hide shields. The cross
appears to be an usual ornament of Soudan and Aheer
arms. It has been thought there is in this device of
arms some vestige of the now extinct Christianity of
North Africa. The subject is curious, but we have no
means to arrive at its solution. My Aheer friend pre
tended his sword was worth two slaves in Soudan ; this
is an exaggeration. Abdullah, the Souf Arab, called.
His brothers have brought thirty slaves from Soudan,
which are destined for the market of Constantina. One
of the Governor's sons goes to Soudan with the return
of the caravan, a lad not more than ten years of age ;
he is to bring back merchandize as a regular trader. A
little urchin of a Touarick, not more than nine years,
came up to-day with his mother and asked me, " Why I

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT.

163

did not know Mahomet ?" but without waiting for a
reply, set on cursing me. It is amazing how weU these
youngsters have learnt this lesson, and how soon ! for
they never before saw, or perhaps heard of, a Christian.
The zealous mother had probably put up her son to this
pious cursing of The Christian.

mm mm.
1^

22nd. — Made the tour of the oasis, and sketched a
view of the town, which is annexed. Weather extremely
warm to-day— nay, hot, and in the midst of January.
What' must it be in August! But the weather is far
more changeable and uncertain in Sahara than it is
commonly thought to be. Several visits from the
Touaricks of Aheer. Gave one a small lock and key,
which is esteemed a great curiosity in this country. It
gladdened his heart so much, that I believe he would
now go through fire and water for me. He wanted to
take me to Soudan by main force. He went away, and
returned with some hard cheese made at Aheer, Uttle
M 2

164 THE GEEAT DESERT.
squares somewhat smaUer than Dutch tiles, which he
presented in acknowledgment. I have had but few
returns for the great variety of things I have given away
in Ghat. The Medina Shereef, Khanouhen's son-in-law,
scolded me: — "Ah, Yakob, you have done wrong to
give away so much. You'U get nothing back. This is
a country of extortioners and extortion from strangers.
You ought to have come here, said a few words, and
left us." This is fine talk for the Shereef. He knows as
well as I know, that this wouldn't do. A courier
arrived from Ghadames, by which I received two kind
letters from Malta. It seems a thousand years since I
received a letter from a friend.
A Negress had the hardihood to caU on me, begging,
in the name of Ouweek, thinking thereby to intimidate
me. The bandit, however, sent a person two or three
days ago to beg of me a Uttle tobacco. I should cer
tainly have sent some, had I had any left. Hateetah
caUed, wondering what had become of me, as I had not
called on him for a few days. Gave him another doUar,
but it is the last. The Consul says there is a great
deal of fever about amongst the merchants and people,
but I don't see it. I was somewhat surprised, for I
thought the town enjoyed good health. I have reason
to be thankful that it does not attack me. Apparently
I'm fever proof. In all my Ufe, I never recoUect to have
caught an epidemic fever.
23rd. — Called upon the Governor. His Excellency
displayed his hospitality by giving me zumeeta made
with dates and sour milk. Took the opportunity of
asking him about the origin of the Touaricks. He pre
tends they are of Arab extraction. On inquiring how

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 165
they lost their language, whUst aU the Arabian tribes
retained theirs, his ExceUency repUed, " They have learnt
Touarghee as you have learnt Arabic." This is ex
tremely unsatisfactory, for he could not explain from
whom they learnt Touarghee. About the history of
Ghat his ExceUency knows nothing. He says only, " It
is a more ancient place than Ghadames," which, how
ever, I do not believe. His ExceUency said the news
had arrived from Algeria, that the Emperor of Morocco
had united with Abdel Kader against the French, and
four districts had elected the Emir for their chief. CaUed
on Hateetah. Whilst there, an old lady of eighty years
of age came in and got up to dance before me in the
indecorous Barbary style, and then begged money.
Seeing she had outhved her wits and took a great fancy
for one of my buttons, I cut it off and gave it her, to
the annoyance of Hateetah, the Consul scolding me for
my condescension.
The Governor teUs me there is a mountain of con
siderable altitude about two days from Ghat, in the route
of Touat, from the base of which gush out some twelve
large streams. The rain this year has faUen plentifuUy
on these heights, and wheat and barley have been sown
an the banks of the streams. This is a fact of import
ance in Saharan geography, more especiaUy as the moun
tain is situate in that central part of the Great Desert
which is represented on the maps as an ocean of sand,
the scene of eternal desolation ! 
Evening, whUst visiting Haj Ibrahim, who continues
unusuaUy kind to me, came in our funny friend, the
famous Aheer camel-driver, Kandarka. This Kylouy
is a great favourite with all, the Governor excepted.

166 THE GREAT DESERT.
People praise his- undaunted courage and say, " If a troop
of fifty robbers were to attack Kandarka alone, he would
stiU resist them." He has shown himself very friendly
to me, and says, " Write a letter to Aheer, my Sultan,
and I will take it. When you return bring me one
thing — a sword, and I will take you safely over all
Soudan." He has great influence with En-Nour, Sultan
of Aheer, and any one travelling under Kandarka's pro
tection is sure of a good reception from En-Nour.
24^. — A fine day, but hot. Our departure is now
delayed till next month. What a dreadful loss of time
is this ! I'm weary to death. I wish I had arranged
to continue to Soudan. Grown disgusted with Ghat, I
am reading what few books I have with me. Noticed
more parallel customs between Africa and the East.
" And Isaac digged again the weUs of water, which
they had digged in the days of Abraham his father ; for
the Philistines had stopped them after the death of
Abraham : and he called their names after the names by
which his father had caUed them." (Gen. xxvi. 18.)
The object of stopping up the weUs was to prevent the
children of Abraham making use of them and so occupy
ing the country. The same thing is done in Sahara.
When an enemy is to be exterminated, or robbers re
pulsed, from a particular district, the wells are stopped
up. WeUs are also named by the digger of them. A
man who goes to the expense of digging out a well, if
peradventure he finds water, has the privilege of giving
to it his own name. There is one on the route from
Mourzuk to Tripoli called Mukni or Beer-Mukni, from
the great merchant who dug the weU. So the name of
the city of Timbuctoo is said by some to be derived from

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 167
the Berber word teen, " well," and Buktu, the name of the
person who on its present site dug a well for the ren
dezvous or casual supply of passing caravans. But this
derivation is merely conjectural.
" Take heed that thou speak not to Jacob, good or
bad." (Gen. xxi. 24.) The verb speak (P^1.^) is used
for the verb to do. The same idiom prevaUs amongst
the Touaricks. The friendly Touaricks always address
me, " Don't be afraid, no person will say (or speak) either
good or bad to you." So Jabour's slave brought me word
from the Sheikh : " No person is to say anything (do
anything) to you."
Dr. Wolff says, in his travels of Central Asia, the
people of a strange place always apply to his servant for
information about himself. So the Saharans apply to
my Negro servant for news or information about me.
" And David sat between the two gates  and
the king said, If he be alone then is tidings in his mouth
 tidings." (2 Sam. xviii. 24, 25, 26.) All
couriers in this country are sent alone. When they
travel through Sahara they have a camel to ride, but if
there be abundant water on the road they go on foot.
Merchants pay each so much to the courier according to
their means. A courier sent from this to Tripoli, who
also returns and brings answers to the letters, will re
ceive altogether fifteen doUars. Touarghee couriers
between this and Ghadames go for half the sum. — "And
the watchman went up to the roof over the gate unto
the waU and lifted up his eyes," &c. (part of the verses
above cited). When a spy was sent from Ghadames to
watch the Shanbah and their approaches round the
country, on the eve of my departure from that place,

168 THE GREAT DESERT.
people went up a ruined tower, situate on a high ground,
and apparently buUt speciaUy for the purpose, to watch
the return of the spy. I have seen several of these
watch towers in the oases of Sahara.
" And they took Absalom and cast him into a great
pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones
upon him." (2 Sam. xviU. 17.) When one dies in open
desert, the people lay a heap of stones over the grave,
the heap being smaUer or larger according to the rank
and consequence of the individual. The mention of " a
very great heap," in the words cited, evidently denotes
the royal rank of the deceased.
25th. — My young Targhee caUed to-day as usual.
Asked him abruptly, "What he did? What was his
occupation ? And how the Touaricks employed them
selves?" With great simpUcity, "When the nagah
(she-camel) is with young and gives no mUk, we come
to Ghat, and eat dates and ghusub and bread, if we can
get them. When the nagah gives milk we return and
drink milk and lie down on the road side. This is aU
which Touaricks do." The Touaricks are determined to
feel as little of the primeval curse, — "In the sweat of thy
face shalt thou eat bread," — as any people. The Targhee
then gave me spontaneously a bit of knowledge which I
had not before heard. He proceeded, " When I return
to my house on the road (or by the caravan route), and
to my wife, I don't uncover my face and go up to her
and stare boldly at my wife. No, I cover my face aU
over, and sit down gently by her side, waiting tiU she
speaks with aU patience. When she speaks, I speak, be
cause I know then that she is willing to speak. It is
very indecent to go to your wife with your face un-

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 169
covered." In fact, generally amongst the Touaricks,
the men have their faces covered and the women their
faces uncovered. The reverse of what we find in other
Mahometan countries. But also the reverse of what the
native modesty of the human mind dictates.
Atkee, the Ghadamsee Arab, who was to have been
my companion to Soudan, went off, returning to Gha
dames, without paying the money which I committed to
bis care for the owner of the camel's flesh, which we ate
on the route of Ghat. Atkee besides neglected to bring
the money for the half of the skin of the sheep which I
purchased with him, according to promise. These things
are merest trifles, but merest trifles develop the character
of men. It is such actions of dishonesty which make
one afraid of traveUing in Africa, lest we are sacrificed to
the designing viUany of those who pretend most and
exhibit the most officious marks of friendship. In such
a way poor Laing was entrapped and murdered. This
very Atkee, I considered the first man of the ghafalah.
Zalea. now teUs me that Atkee wished to lay on two
more doUars for the things given to Ouweek. But the
Arabs, Uke the Cretans of old, are "all Uars," and I
don't wish to make Atkee worse than he was. I am
sufficiently disappointed with him.
The Medina Shereef called, who is the most learned
person in Ghat. I showed him the Arabic Bible, which
amazed and confounded him, as he turned over its well-
printed pages. He sighed, nay, literally groaned, at the
profanity of having our infidel religion translated into
the holy Arabic language. The Shereef told me Arabic
would be the language of heaven. The Jews tell us it
wiU be Hebrew, (or unpn \uh>). The Latin Church has

170

THE GREAT DESERT.

its holy Latin, and a trilingual bible of " Hebrew, Latin,
Greek," was said by pious fathers of that Church, to
represent "Christ crucified between two thieves." The
Hindoos have their sacred Sanscrit, and so of the rest.
The benumbed and frozen mind of the Esquimaux, amidst
the fat seals, blubber, and seas of oU in which it revels
and swims, when anticipating the joys of the polar heaven,
makes the tongue involuntarily speak in genuine Esqui-
niauxan gibberish. It is, however, not surprising that
the language in which a people first receives the rudi
ments of its religion should be greatly venerated and
acquire a peculiar sacredness. The Shereef asked me
to show him the passage where Mahomet was spoken of
under the title of Parakleit; but he kept off religious
discussion, having more delicacy than his neighbours of
Ghat. Ignorance is bliss to a Shereef of these countries.
Were the Shereef to see the wonders of Christian civiliza
tion, he would be stung to death with envy. A gentleman
once told me as the result of his experience in Barbary, that
a Mussulman who had not seen Europe was more friendly
to Christians than one who had, accounting for it on the
principle of a despicable envy.
26th. — The weather continues warm and fine; Uttle
wind. Objects at fifty miles' distance seem close upon
you, so clear and rarefied is the air. Berka came this
morning ostensibly for eye-powders, but really for a bit
more sugar for his little grandson, the weU-beloved son of
his old age.
Sheikh Berka. — " Sala-a-a-m !"
The writer. — " Good morning, Berka."
Sheikh Berka. — " Medicine for my eyes."
The writer. — " Here is some powder, you must

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 171
mix it with a bowl of water; but take care, it's poi
sonous." Sheikh Berka. — "Good God, Christian ! take it back,
my little son wUl eat it for sugar. He gets everything
and eats." The writer. — " Here's some sugar for him."
Sheikh Berka. — " God Almighty bless you."
The writer. — " How old are you, Berka ?"
Sheikh Berka. — " My mother knows, but she's gone.
She's gone to God!"
Essnousee came in for eye-powders to make a solution,
and fever-powders to take with him to Soudan. Have
only two or three of the latter which I keep for myself.
Gave him the last I had. He said, " You don't see the
fever, you don't visit enough, there's plenty of it in the
houses." Apparently it is common intermittent fever with
some cUmatic variety ; I think Tertian ague.
People are more civU in the streets to-day, and the
rabble has lost its curiosity or fancy for running after
us. Negroes and slaves are stiU impudent, not recog
nizing in the Kafer their secret friend. Saw Khanouhen
in the Esh-SheUy, who caUed after me to come to him.
Hateetah was with him. The Prince began his satires
on the Consul: — "Yakob, who is the best man, I or
Hateetah? Have you written* this feUow Hateetah?
All about him? Is this the EngUsh Consul? Does your
Sultan own him?" Khanouhen pressed him so hard,
that I ran off to save Hateetah's feeUngs, all the people
roaring with laughter, and calling me back.

* When you make a drawing, they say " Write" a drawing, or
'Write" a man, instead of draw a man.

172 THE GREAT DESERT.
0 Afternoon saw the Governor. His ExceUency
lavished his hospitality on me. He gave me coffee,
dried Soudan beef cut up into shreds, and some of the
Soudan almonds. These almonds are not fine flavoured
Uke those of the north, but are viscid, rancid, and bitter.
Nor are they of the same beautiful filbert-form, but of
clumsy oval and double-oval shapes. The sheU is soft,
and can be broken easily with the fingers. The kernel
is mostly double, and when slightly rubbed splits into
halves or rather two kernels. The dried beef is very
pleasant eating, but rather too dry, the fat and moisture
being all consumed. We have heard of beef cooked in
the sun on the bastions of Malta, but this is really beef
cooked in the sun. It is an exceUent provision for long
journeys over The Desert. People chew it as tobacco is
chewed. Our Governor-Marabout got very famUiar this
morning, and talked about his family. He caUed a
Uttle boy and said to me, "Look at my little son, he's as
white as you are white." The child was indeed very
fair for a young Saharan. He asked me as tabeeb, if
Christian women had more chUdren than one, and if
they went longer than a year, which he had heard. He
pretended his was a smaU family, and he should Uke to
have fifty chUdren, which, he added, "all Sultans ought
to have ;" but, for money he did not care, he wished
aU his chUdren were poor but pious marabouts. His
preaching is quite contrary to his practice. A more
money-getting ambitious feUow I have not found in The
Desert. The report which I heard of the Governor
of Ghat being changed whilst at Ghadames, was a sham
abdication on his part. From domestic matters he pro
ceeded to talk of politics. His ExceUency is always

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 173
anxious to give an immense idea of the fighting quaUties
and numbers of the Touaricks. He wishes me to make
a favourable report of them, and his position at Ghat,
and country. He declares the warriors to muster
15,000 strong, which would give too numerous a popu
lation for the Azgher section of Touaricks. The Haghar,
and especiaUy the Kylouy Touaricks, have an infinitely
larger population than those of Ghat. The Marabout
pretends there are some Touaricks who never saw corn
or tasted bread, and others who dress only in skins.
Indeed, I saw a Touarghee from the country, as weU as
The Touarick Prophet, dressed entirely in skins and
tanned leather.
His ExceUency then introduced his favourite subject
of the battles between Moslems and Nazarenes for the
possession of Constantinople, in which his ancestors so
valiantly fought. He said, the sword of one of his
grandfathers was laid up in the armoury of Stamboul,
and submitted to me if I thought the Turks would give
it to him if he were to make the demand. I told him
to apply to the British Ambassador at the Porte, making
the thing of the consequence suited to the Marabout's
taste. " No," he replied, "I shaU go myself one day
and fetch it." His Excellency then began to extol the
military forces and powers of the princes of Africa : —
"The Sultan of Timbuctoo has 100,000 fighting men!
Wadai has 100,000 warriors! The Sultans of Sou
dan have innumerable hosts, as the sand-grains of The
Desert are innumerable !" He then asked silly questions
as to whether the Turks could beat the Christians in
fighting. I told him plainly, the Turks now learnt the
art of war from the Christians, and the latter were not

174 THE GREAT DESERT.
only superior to them, but to all Mohammedans what
ever, Arabs or Touaricks, Kabyles, or what not, recom
mending his ExceUency not to credit the absurd reports
propagated by foolish dervishes of The Desert, as to how
the Emperor of Morocco was conquering all the French
and other Christians. Indeed, I'm obliged to be school
master, and geographer, and admonisher, to Sheikhs,
marabouts, merchants, to aU and every body. The
subject of religion was now introduced, and I found the
Governor, though a Marabout, of the first water, did
not know that the Christians read and studied the sacred
books of the Jews. I told his ExceUency, Christian
Marabouts must read and study the sacred books of all
religions, and Christian talebs frequently read the Koran
to acquire a knowledge of classic Arabic. This informa
tion greatly amazed the Governor. I cannot, however,
report more of his conversation, which would be endless.
I sent him on my return the Arabic Bible, which the
Shereef had told him I had with me.
Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. The Haj sur
prised me by saying, " AU my slaves, even the youngest
of not more than four or five years' old, must walk to
Tripoli as they have walked from Kanou to Ghat." I
found Kandarka with him. The camel-driver is a right-
joUy feUow, quite a new species of being from the Toua
ricks of Ghat. A great deal of merry laughing and
grinning Negro feeling is in his composition. But, with
all his fun, he is a most determined man. He is about
to convey some of the Haj's merchandize to Kanou, as
being the bravest and most trust-worthy of aU the Aheer
camel-drivers. 27th. — I'm out of my reckonings with the Moors by

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 175
some mistake or other, of them or me, for I'm Monday,
and they're Tuesday. Their month and our month, like
our respective religions, is also in continual coUision,
their month being lunar, not solar. The weather is very
warm. Am exceedingly tired of remaining in Ghat ;
always regretting I did not determine to go to Soudan.
Merchants are daily leaving in smaU caravans, not large
caravans, which is a proof of the security of the routes, and
the word of the Touarghee Sheikh is "one" word; "The
routes are aU in peace," they say. Walked out with a very
large stick, which frightened the Ghatee boys, who all
thought it was for them, on account of their former sauci-
ness. Was surprised at the Medina Shereef asking me to
lend (give) him fifteen dollars to go to Tripoli. I promised
very foolishly to give him his provisions to Tripoli, in
the event of his proceeding with our caravan. What
people for begging are these ! The Shereef had just
been scolding me for giving so much to these importu-
nates. Although their houses are fuU of stores and
money, they wiU still beg, and beg, and beg ....
beg . . . beg . . . But this evening, at Haj
Ibrahim's, we had a transcendant specimen of begging.
The beggar was no less a personage than The Giant.
I may remind the reader, The Giant is the son of Ber-
ka's sister, and is head of the tribe at Berka's death. The
Giant therefore came to demand backsheesh, as being the
lineal successor of Berka, who was Haj Ibrahim's protector.
Haj Ibrahim observed : — " I have given Berka twenty
doUars, and some other presents, and I cannot give any
thing to his oulad (' sons.')" The Giant would hear none
of this, insisted upon a present for himself, and swore by
aU the sacred names of the Deity, frequently using his

176 THE GREAT DESERT.
favourite oath, "AUah Akbar!" After an hour's de
bating, it was agreed that, for the future, Berka, if he
Uved tiU another year, (for the aged chieftain is "totter
ing o'er the grave,") should have a smaUer present, and
the portion subtracted should be given to The Giant.
But this is cutting the blanket at one end, to sew the
piece on the other, for the sons and nephews of Berka
now share the presents amongst them. His Giantship
was very condescending to me, though savage enough
with the merchant. He laughed and joked, and
" grinned a ghastly smile," and asked me, why I did not
go into the public square and see aU the people, thinking
my not going out more showed a want of confidence in
the Touaricks. Want of confidence in a Touarick is the
most serious insult you can offer to him. So Dr. Oudney
properly records of Hateetah, and says, " he was indig
nant at the feeUngs which the people of Mourzuk had
against the Touaricks — the Touaricks who pride them
selves in having one word, and performing what they
promise." But Hateetah has since become an old man,
and, with the usual prudence of age, recommends me not
to go much about amongst the people. " Something
unpleasant might happen," he says, " for which all the
Sheikhs would be sorry." The Giant said to me, "Come,
you Christian, I shaU sell you a wife of the Shanbah
women. Stop here tiU I come back."
A most affecting incident was related to me by Mus-
tapha. Two of his slaves quarrelled, and last night,
whilst' one was fast asleep, the other went stealthUy and
fetched a shovelful of burning-wood ashes, and poured
them over the sleeping slave's face, tongue, and neck !
He is suffering sadly, and Mustapha has caUed for

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 177
medicine. So act these poor creatures, the victims of a
common misfortune. How cruel is man to his brother !
In all situations, man is his own enemy ! This incident
reminds me of what Colonel Keatinge relates of the un
fortunate Jews in Morocco. Although the Jews are
very badly treated in that empire, and all suffer great
indignities, yet, to increase their own misfortunes, and by
their own hands, one Jew has actually been known to
purchase from the Sultan the right, the privilege of
torturing another Jew. The speculation, adds the
Colonel, was considered " a good one," because, if no
pecuniary advantage followed, the pleasure of inflicting
the torture was certain. The privUege of bidding for
himself, or buying himself from the torture, was the only
one aUowed the victim on such horrible occasions ! Some
people have pretended that there is a limit to human
degradation ; but there is always a lower depth — and a
stUl lower depth. Not death itself limits this sort of
degradation— the tomb of the unfortunate Morocco Jew
is defiled — and his name and faith furnishes, unendingly,
the " by-words" of the curse of the Moor ! On the late
massacre of the Jews at Mogador, neither the Earl of
Aberdeen nor Monsieur Guizot, condescended to remon
strate to the Moorish Emperor ; nor did their co
religionists of France and England attempt (that I have
heard of) to excite their Governments on behalf of the
plundered and houseless Maroquine Jews . . . How
long are these things to last ? . . . Till doomsday?
. . . But did not Jupiter give Pandora the box with
hope at the bottom ? ... To be serious, would not
a million or two of the Rothschilds be weU spent in
buying the freedom of the Morocco Jews ? Could a
VOL. II. N

178 THE GREAT DESERT.
patriotic Jew do any thing which, in the last moment of his
life, would produce more and such satisfactory reflections?
It is to be hoped that the patriotic Jews of Europe are
not like some foolish Christians who wish to continue
the oppression of the Jews in order to fulfil the prophe
cies, as if God could not take care of his own veracity !
But these sottish Christians had better mind what they
are about, in contributing to the continued oppression of
the Jews, and preventing their emancipation, because,
whatever may be the duration of the prophetic curse
upon the Jews, God wiU not, cannot hold the contributors
to their oppression guUtless, no more than he did the
Babylonian princes who first carried away the Jews
into captivity.
28th. — Distributed to the Soudanese merchants solution
for the eyes. This evening Haj Ibrahim's slaves sung
and played together in the court-yard. They consist of
girls and boys, and young women. They sung in cho
ruses, one first repeating a line or a verse in the style of
the ancient Greeks. Their voices are not very melo
dious, and they remind me of the responses of a charity
school at church. Still it is grateful to one's feeUngs to
witness how pitying is God to these poor things, in giving
them such happy hearts in the early days of their
bondage ! Kandarka was here, the same merry-hearted
feUow as before. Providence has compensated Africa
for the wrongs inflicted by her enemies, in giving her
children a happy and contented disposition.
29th. — A fine morning; weather warm, cold seems to
have left us altogether. I have discussed the " vexed
question," with the Soudanese and Saharan merchants, as
to how the ostrich is hunted and caught. In Soudan

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 179
the ostrich is snared by small cords, the bird getting its
legs into the nooses. The trap is a quantity of herbage
laid over the cordage. Here the Negro waits for his
rich feathery booty, and draws the cordage as soon as
their feet are in the noose. Others throw stones, sticks,
and lances, at the ostrich ; others shoot them. But in
Sahara, and in what is caUed the edge of The Desert,
the ostrich is simply ridden down by the mounted Arab
during the great heats of summer. The ostrich, though
a tenant of the burning Sahara, cannot run well for any
length of time during the summer, and so becomes the
prey of the Arab, whose horse bears heat better. In
and about Wadnoun, ostriches are hunted with what is
caUed the Desert horse, which is a horse living chiefly on
milk, and which has a power of endurance the most
extraordinary. This agrees with Porret, who says, " the
ostriches can only be taken by tiring them down." But
he does not mention the summer. Riley says the ostrich
is driven before the wind, and Jackson against the wind,
in being hunted. Captain Lyon says, " it is during the
breeding season the greatest number of ostriches are
caught, the Arabs shooting the old ones on their nests."
The Sahara is a world of itself, peopled with a variety
of hunters, who wUl each hunt in the manner he likes
best. I may add, as I have often alluded to Bib-
Ucal matters, the story of the ostrich forsaking her eggs,
and leaving them to be hatched in the sun, is not correct.
Merchants often questioned me as to what we did with
ostrich feathers, people making no particular use of them
in Sahara. When I told them our ladies adorned their
heads with ostrich feathers, they laughed heartily, adding,
" How ridiculous !" We laugh at their sable beauties
N 2

180 THE GREAT DESERT.
adorning their necks and bosoms with trumpery glass-
beads, and they laugh at our red and white beauties
adorning their heads with ostrich feathers. The Chinese
have their peacock's feather as a set-off against our
button-hole ribbon ; " Ainsi va le monde." One of the
Aheer Touaricks, who, unlike my Ghat friends, return
presents, brought me to-day a damaged ostrich skin and
feathers. Being quite out of pens, and not able to per
suade the Tripolines to send me up a few quills, I cut
out several ostrich quills, and had the pleasure, for the
first time in my life, of writing with an ostrich pen. I
cut several, and amused and satirized myself by writing
in my journal with one quill, " James Richardson has
much to learn ;" with another quill, " Richardson, James,
must take care of his health," &c, " Yakob Richardson
was an"egregious ass to come into The Desert," &c, &c.
These quills are very firm, if not fine and flexible, and it
is a good substitute in The Desert for " the grey goose
quill." I was so delighted with this unexpected supply
of pens, that I offered the Touarghee of Aheer another
present, but he resolutely refused it, adding, "I wish
to show you that a Touarick of Aheer can be grateful,
and do a kindness to a stranger, without eating him up."
This was a tall man, of fair complexion, but pitted with
the small-pox, of middle age, and called Mohammed.
He was one of the best specimens of Aheer Touaricks,
and always said to me, " Come to our country. You
will walk about the streets without being molested by
any one. We never saw a Christian in our country, and
wer'wish to see one."
Evening, a ghafalah from Aheer has arrived, bringing
sixty camel-loads of senna, and ten of elephants' teeth.

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 181
A courier is also come from Touat, with the intelligence
that the Shanbah, instead of fleeing away from the
threatened attack of the Touaricks, had boldly appeared
on the Touarick territory, in the route of Touat and
Ghadames, having a force of 1200 mounted men. The
Touaricks are at last alarmed, and dispatching messengers
through aU their districts, to give intelligence of the
arrival of the enemy. I'm afraid the Touaricks have
been making too sure of their approaching success. A
messenger has been sent after the last Ghadamsee gha
falah which left here. Great excitement prevails in the
town, and Jabour and Khanouhen are preparing to leave
for their districts, where the levies of troops are coUect-
ing. A portion of the TripoUne ghafalah is stopped a
few hours from this, on account of three of the camels
running away during the night. The camel is by no
means so stupid as it looks, and knows exactly when
it is about to commence a long journey over The Desert.
The three camels could not withstand the temptation of
the herbage in the wady, and started off, and wUl not be
found for days. Fulness of food as weU as hunger makes
animals savage. One of our camels whilst grazing bit a
slave, and has nearly kUled him. This, however, rarely
happens ; the camel is generaUy docUe, if not harmless.
The Touaricks belonging to Berka have just paid
Christians a very high compUment, but at my expense.
I promised some more sugar to Berka if I could get any
from Haj Ibrahim. The Sheikh sent twice for the sugar,
and yesterday, when some of his people visited the mer
chant, they said to him, " Where is the sugar of The
Christian ? It is not right for Yakob to treat us thus.
Christians never lie." A Christian tourist must never

182 THE GREAT DESERT.
follow the example of a Mahometan in this country, that
is, of always promising and never refusing, because it is
disagreeable to refuse. In the above case, however, my
promise was quite conditional, on Haj Ibrahim's having
sugar. Nevertheless, there is happUy an opinion pre
valent in North Africa, that Christians, and especiaUy
English Christians, have but " one word." Let aU of us
British tourists try to keep up this high character.
30th. — A little colder this morning, and foggy. The
senna ghafalah will detain us tlrree days more. Our
camels are come up from the grazing districts ; my nagah
looks much better. Jabour called this morning to bid
me farewell, before departing to his country house. The
Sheikh leaves this evening. Ashamed of the small pre
sent I made him on my arrival, I apologized, and
begged him to accept of the only razor I had, which
being quite new, and very large and fine-looking, exceed
ingly pleased the Sheikh. We had together a good deal
of the most friendly conversation. Jabour promises, on
my return, to conduct me en route for Timbuctoo, and
confide me to the care of some of his trustworthy fol
lowers. He wiU conduct me by the south-western route,
which is stated to be forty-five days' journey on M.
Carette's map. But the Sheikh tells me it is only thirty
days, or less. This route is intersected by many moun
tains, the height of which is so great, that the vaUeys
are, for Sahara, perceptibly cold. These heights attract
the clouds and condense them into rain, and the rocky
region is full of beautiful springs and foaming cascades,
of eternal freshness. There is, however, the dreaded
plain of Tenezrouft (ci^i^y.3) to be traversed, eight
days without water for man, or herbage for camels. This

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 183
is the grand difficulty in getting to Timbuctoo from the
north. The Sheikh went so far as to insure my safety
to Timbuctoo and back. He then observed, " All the
people from Tripoli are under my protection, all Chris
tians who come that way. TeU your countrymen they
have nothing to fear in that route ; teU them to come in
peace." He continued, " Why, I observe you writing
Arabic, why don't you believe in our books ?" I an
swered, " We have our prophet, who is Jesus ; but aU
Christians beUeve that 'God is one,' that ' God is the
most merciful,' (a=.\, *_>,  f«j=-^ (jj^j-^ ^)" citing
this Arabic. He then shook hands most cordially with
me, and we parted (for ever?). I always looked upon
this good and just man as the bond fide friend, not only
of me and Christians, but of all strangers, visiting Ghat,
whatsoever. A Uttle while after he sent me, by one of
his people, a smaU present of a Touarghee traveUing
bag, made of coarse-dressed leather. This is my first
present from a Touarghee Sheikh, and I shall keep it as
long as I can.
As soon as Jabour left, Hateetah came in, but in a
very different mood. Somebody had told him I had
given the razor to Jabour, and he was also annoyed at
seeing the present from Jabour, of whom he is, as of all
the other Sheikhs, very jealous. Hateetah now vented
his rage against Haj Ibrahim, for only giving him a turban-
band. He swore solemnly he would cut the merchant's
throat on the road if he did not give him five or ten
doUars. I laughed at this petulant saUy, and said,
" Yes, cut his throat ; you wUl do better than Ouweek."
This was too much for Hateetah, who was trying, but

184 THE GREAT DESERT.
apparently unable, to work himself up into a passion,
and he couldn't help breaking down ; so taking me by
the hand, he said, " Do you believe me ?" He was in
hopes I would go and report this mock-furious speech to
Haj Ibrahim, but I was determined I would not interfere.
He then abused the route of Fezzan, and said it was full
of banditti. Of this also I took no notice.
One of my most curious acquaintances' is an old
Touatee, established in Ghat as a trader many years.
He comes frequently to barter with me, bringing bits of
cheese and dried meat. He wiU never let go his wares
until he gets the equivalent fast in his hands. But he
has no prejudice against Christians. He often recom
mends to me the sable beauties of Ghat, but I always
reply, " This is prohibited to Christians." He is very
much puzzled to know what I write about, and says,
" Don't write anything against me."
Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. The senna,
which was formerly only four and a half doUars the
cantar, is now six, at which price the merchant bought
twenty camel-loads to-day. Kandarka came in, and this
funny feUow, on seeing me, immediately cried out,
" Saif zain," " wahad," which, being interpreted UteraUy,
means, "A fine sword!" " one !" but with a more enlarged
interpretation and paraphrase, means, " Bring me a fine
sword when you come back, a sword which wUl kUl a
man with one stroke." After repeating this twenty times
and suiting the action to the word, the Aheer camel-
driver set to and caricatured the Touaricks of Ghat in
general, and the Sultan Shafou in particular. His topic
was the Shanbah war, the everlasting theme now in Ghat.
The camel-driver mimicked and satirized the aged Sultan

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 185
by taking up a walking-stick and walking in a stooping
posture, leaning on the staff, begging from door to door,
knocking at the door of the room in which we were
sitting, slipping down the wrapper from his mouth,
which the Touaricks do when they attempt to speak in
earnest, and was to show the importunity of the begging
Sultan. This drama was performed to denote the
general poverty of the Ghat Touaricks, as compared with
the rich Touaricks of Aheer. The Aheer comedian then
caricatured all the Touaricks together, by shaking his
hands and body as if a tremor was passing through his
limbs ; he then feU at fuU length on the floor, as if dead.
In this way the comic camel-driver ridiculed the poverty
and pusillanimity of Ghat Touaricks. He convulsed aU
the Moors and Arabs with laughter. In fact, he hit off
the objects of his satire as well as some of our best
comedians. And from what I can learn in town, it
would appear the pride of Khanouhen is humbled before
the threatening aspect of the war. Made Kandarka a
present of a razor which I purchased of Haj Ibrahim.
He took it up and exclaimed, " Saif zain, wahad, I'll
unman aU the Touaricks with this. Who's Khanouhen ?
(raising himself up in a boasting position.) Who's
Jabour? — only a Marabout. Who's Hateetah?— a
whimpering slave-girl ! What is Berka ? — soon to be
coffined ? Shafou ! Come, I'll give thee, poor Sultan, a
Uttle bit of bread. As to that tall feUow (the Giant),
there's no camel big enough to carry him. He'U faU
down on the road and rot like a dog." This is amply
sufficient to show that satire is not an European mo
nopoly, but grows indigenous to The Desert. I asked
the Governor what he should do if the Shanbah should

186 THE GREAT DESERT.
come up against Ghat, recommending him to secure his
doors well and prepare for defence. He replied, " I'm a
Marabout." But this character would not screen him
from the shot of the Shanbah matchlocks. Of course,
there's not a bit of ordnance in The Sahara. I don't
recoUect seeing a single piece of cannon at the Turkish
fortified places of Mourzuk, or Sockna, or Bonjem.
31st. — Took a walk to see the Governor. He was
very civil, and I begin to think more of his talent. His
ExceUency was very busy in weighing gold. He divided
it into halves, into thirds, into quarters, and weighed it
aU ways, and separately, with much skiU. This gold was
brought yesterday from Touat by some Touateen,
originally brought from Timbuctoo, there being no gold
or precious metals in this part of Sahara. People pre
tend, however, there is coal in the route between Ghat
and Touat. But were it found there ever so plentifuUy, it
would not pay the carriage to the coast. The Marabout
merchant next unpacked two camels, laden with heiks or
barracans, with presents of tobacco and shoes (Morocco),
for himself and his family. These were sent from his
relatives in Ain Salah. On one of the packages was
written in Arabic, " To our brother, the Marabout, God
bless him." In this unpacking, all his famUy were em
ployed for a couple of hours as busy as bees. The
Governor afterwards gave us coffee, and asked me to
examine the head of one of his children. He had
heard from the merchants of Ghadames how I had exa
mined the heads of the servants of Rais Mustapha. This
child could not walk, having no strength in his limbs.
The brain was pushed backwards and forwards, very flat
on the sides, and sharp at the top of the head, leaving a

CONTINUED RESIDENCE IN GHAT. 187
very miserable portion in the central regions. The entire
nervous system was evidently deranged. The Governor
had no difficulty in crediting my power of divination
through phrenology, believing, like other Moors, that we
Christians have familiar conversation with the Devil, by
which we acquire our superiority of knowledge over them,
the Faithful. His Excellency, on taking leave, gave me
some Touat dates, which are hard but extremely sweet.
This species is caUed Tenakor. The dates of Warklah
and Souf are also very sweet. One of the Touatee
asked me, if I would go to Timbuctoo. I replied, " I'm
afraid." "You are right," he said, "for there's no
Sultan there, everybody does as he likes, all men are
equal." Certainly a powerful Sultan would be of ad
vantage in The Sahara, for a traveller would then have
but one master to conciUate, now he has ten thousand
masters to propitiate. People in quarrelling say, "You
must not do this (or that), for you are in a Blad Sheikh"
(a country where there is a constituted authority).
Liberty is a good thing, nothing is better; but there
must be with it moraUty. Without morality, liberty is
only liberty to do mischief. On my return home,
Hateetah caUed. The first word he utterred was, " I'm at
war with Haj Ibrahim." " Ah," I replied, " you must
cut his throat, he's a great rascal." Hateetah dropped
his complaint at once, and observed, " Patience ; all the
Touaricks leave here to-morrow to go against the Shan
bah, I only shaU remain to go with you." He informed
me the place of rendezvous is Deda, or Dede, three or
four days westward from Ghat. Shafou and Khanouhen
are there, and an immense congregation of all the tribes
is sitting in council and debate. Shafou has sent a

188 THE GREAT DESERT.
message to aUow Hateetah to go with me to Fezzan.
All the mahrys are in urgent request for the war, and
Khanouhen has prohibited the Touaricks from engaging
their camels for the carriage of merchandize. After aU
it appears there is a strong government in The Desert.
One of the questions debated is, " Whether they shaU
attack the Haghar tribes, subjected to the Sultan Bassa,
if they (the Haghar) give an asylum to the Shanbah."
The Touat people wish the Azgher and Haghar tribes to
unite for the extermination of the robbers, who injure
the commerce of aU this part of Sahara. In the even
ing saw Haj Ibrahim. Kandarka came in : " Saif zain,
wahad," he bawled out as usual. He entered into a
minute description of the kind of sword he wished, one
that would bend and was as elastic as a cane.

189

CHAPTER XXII.
PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN.
Account of Timbuctoo. — Streets of Ghat deserted by departure of
Caravans. — Packing of Senna. — Return of the Soudan Caravan.
— The Giant and his Gang sally out in search of a Supper.—
System of Irrigation. — The Saharan Hades. — Continued depar
ture of People to Soudan. — Hateetah serves himself from Haj
Ibrahim's Goods — Scold Ghadamsee Merchants for introducing
Religious Discussion. — Mode of Fashionable Dressing of the
Hair, and Female Adornment. — Saharan Beauties. — Costume
of Touaricks. — Gardens of the Governor. — Attempt a Journey
to Wareerat Range. — Hateetah and Haj Ibrahim become re
conciled. — Departure of Kandarka for Aheer. — Day of my
departure from Ghat. — Moral and Social Condition of the Saha
ran People compared to European Society. — Force of our Slave
Caravan. — First Night's Bivouack.
I have not obtained any additional information at
Ghat respecting the still mysterious city of Timbuctoo.
In comparing CailUe's description with that given by the
American sailor, Robert Adams, I find CaiUie's infor
mation agrees the better with what I have coUected
myself from the mouths of those who have been long
resident at Timbuctoo. Indeed, Adams's description
apparently refers to some Negro city in Bambara or
thereabouts, between Jinnee and Timbuctoo. But I
shall not attempt to impugn the veracity of the one or
the other. Caillie says, " The little information which I
have obtained of Timbuctoo was furnished me by my
host Sidi Abdullah-Chebir, and the Kissour Negroes."
In another place he says that he wished to return vid
Morocco, and not by the Senegal, for fear he should not

190 THE GREAT DESERT.
be believed, his countrymen being envious of his success.
Both of these statements deserve consideration in deter
mining the authenticity of his voyage.
A great variety of speUing exists in the writing of
the name of Timbuctoo. M. Jomard, Member of the
3 O 3 O
French Institute, gives CL&*f3, but says he does not
think that this word when properly written contains the
<s . He thinks, however, we may be satisfied with the
orthography of clSj^-. And he adds, "I know that
Batouta writes Teraboctou, n being used for m." I have
found two ways of speUing Timbuctoo in The Desert,
JOjO JOJO
viz., \yiLk.jJ, and li&Ui', and they both agree with
Batouta. We may, therefore, consider Batouta's style
of speUing the more correct orthography. Now, (jj*j,
Teen, in Touarghee, is "well" or "pit." The term
occurs in combination with many names of stations in
Targhee Sahara, as will be seen in the map ; for exam
ple, Teenyeghen, a well of water, seven days' journey on
the route from Ghadames to Ghat; and Nijberteen, a
weU in my route from Ghadames to Ghat, already men
tioned. In the first instance Teen occurs at the begin
ning of the word, and the second at the end; but, in
both cases, the meaning is "the well of Nijber," and
" the weU of Yeghen." Teenbuktu follows the same rule
of Berber or Touarghee combination, and means "the
Well of Buktu," probably Buktu being the digger of the
pits of Timbuctoo.
With regard to information collected by myself of
this city, I can only add a few particulars. Timbuctoo

PREPARATIONS POR DEPARTURE TO PEZZAN. 191
is situated upon the northern flats of the Niger, or at
about half a day's distance from it during the summer,
and three hours only in winter, the difference arising
from the increase of the water of the river during the
latter season. But our merchants do not mention
whether this river be a branch of the Niger (which
they caU Neel or Nile), or the Niger itself. This
they are evidently unacquainted with. They never
mention the port of Cabra, which is so distinctly
noticed by CaiUie. The climate is hot, and always
hot, but extremely healthy — as healthy as any part of
Central Africa. The city is about four times larger
than Tripoli as to area, but in proportion not so
densely inhabited, the population being about 23,000
souls. It has no walls now, though it formerly had, and
is open to the inroads of the tribes of The Desert. The
population is very mixed, and consists of FuUans, who
are the dominant caste, Touaricks, Negroes, and Moors
and Arabs from different oases of Sahara, as also from
the Northern Coast of Africa. The majority of the
Moors are Maroquines. The Government is absolute,
and now in the delegated possession of a Marabout
named Mokhtar, and the national religion Mahometan.
There do not appear to be any Pagans or idolatrous
Africans now resident in Timbuctoo, but some half
century ago most of the Kissour Negroes, the native
Negroes of Timbuctoo, were Pagans. The present Sultan
is called Ahmed Ben Ahmed Lebbu FuUan, whose
authority is established over the two great cities of
Jinnee and Timbuctoo, and all the intervening and
neighbouring districts, including several cities of inferior
note. He is the son of the famous warrior Ahmed

192 THE GREAT DESERT.
Lebbu, who dethroned the native princes of the Ramee,
or those who " bend the bow." The usual residence of
the Sultan is now at Jinnee. The city is a place of
great sanctity, and no person has the privilege of smoking
in it — that is to say, defiling it, but the Touaricks, who
are there so overbearing and unmanageable, as to be
above the local laws. They are the cause of continual
disturbances at Timbuctoo ; nevertheless, so powerful are
the Fullans, that they manage to keep the Touaricks in
subjection, as well as the native Negro tribes. There
are seven mosques, the minarets of some of which are as
large as those of Tripoli.
There are several schools and a few learned doctors
amongst the priests. The houses are only one story
high, but some few have a room over a magazine; they
are built of stones and mortar, and some of wood or
straw. The streets are narrow, few of them admit of
the passage of two camels abreast. Several covered
bazaars are built for merchandize. There are no native
manufactures of consequence. Timbuctoo is properly a
commercial depot or emporium. The principal medium
of exchange is salt, which is very inconvenient. The
grand desideratum of merchants is the acquisition and
accumulation of gold, but this is obtained only by a long
and wearying residence in Timbuctoo, and is very uncer
tain in supply. The gold is brought from a considerable
distance south-west. Jinnee is a greater place of trade
than Timbuctoo. The neighbouring country is flat and
sandy, stretching in plains over the aUuvial deposits of
the Niger. There are no fruit-trees or gardens, beyond
the growing of a few melons and vegetables; but trees
abound on the vast plains of Timbuctoo, and there is a

PREPARATIONS POR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 193
great number of the Tholh, or gum-bearing acacia. The
communication between Jinnee and Timbuctoo is princi-
paUy by water, and with light boats the journey can be
accomplished in seven days, but the distance is a month by
land. The navigation of the Niger is extremely difficult,
and in the dry season the boats are continuaUy grounding,
whUst in the wet season people are in constant dread
of being precipitated on the rocks. The boats have
no sails, and are pushed along by poles with great labour.
There is no water in the city : it is brought from pits
east and west, a quarter of a mile distant, — that from
the east being brackish, and that from the west sweet.
Water is sold in the streets of Timbuctoo, as in many
African cities. The Maroquine merchants Uve in style
and luxury at Timbuctoo, and tea, coffee, and sugar may
be obtained from them at a reasonable price. The
residence of an European at Timbuctoo may, perhaps, be
considered secure for a short time ; but the grand diffi
culty is to get there, and when you get there, to get safe
back again. These details are not very interesting, and
I should not have mentioned them, but for the general
anxiety there stiU exists to obtain correct and recent
information of this celebrated Nigritian city.
1st February. — The streets of Ghat begin to be
deserted. Touaricks are going, and gone, as well as
the various merchants from neighbouring countries. So
I walk with much freedom in the streets. Have not
been molested about religion for some time ; but a man
said to me to day, " Unless you believe in Mahomet, you
wiU burn in the fire for ever!" Strange anomaly this in
the conduct of men ! They deUver over their fellow
men to everlasting torments, as if it was some slight
VOL. II. o

194 THE GREAT DESERT.
corporal castigation ! . . . . Saw Hateetah. The
Consul is still at war with Haj Ibrahim ; but he is cut
ting his own throat, and not the merchant's, by his foolish
conduct. A low Ghat fellow came in, and finding me
writing, begins crying out : — " Oh, you are writing our
country ! You are coming afterwards to destroy it !
Never was our country written before, and it shall not be
now !" I turned him out of doors. He then fetched
a mob of " lewd feUows of the baser sort," and began
wheying, whooing. Hateetah luckily came by at the
time, and belaboured them with his spear, and off they
ran, wheying whooing. Went to see them pack up
senna, or rather change the sacks, those in which it had
been packed in Aheer being worn out. The sacks are
made of palm-leaves. Here were lying some hundred
large bundles. I am not surprised these simple people
wonder what we do with senna, and are the more sur
prised when I teU them it is for medicine. Medicine
they take little of; and then they have no conception of
the miUions of Christians in Europe, thinking we are so
many islanders squatting upon the oases of the watery
ocean. The senna leaves, on account of the late rains,
are finer and broader than usual : they are very large,
and, except the edges, of a dark-purple hue. There is a
good deal of smaU wood (stalks of the plant), and here
and there a few yellow flowers, besides a quantity of
dust and dirt mixed up with the leaves.
Several detachments of the return Soudan caravan
left to-day. Went to see them off. It was amusing to
be present at the preparations for departing. Some just
starting, some packing up, others loading, others weighing
the camels' burdens, others saluting their friends all in

PREPARATIONS POR DEPARTURE TO PEZZAN. 195
busy and distracting confusion. Strings of camels were
in advance, with their heads towards Berkat. I sighed
with regret. I wished to follow .... The
camels are tied one after another, held together by
strings in their nose, and they are not allowed to graze
during the march, Uke the camels of Arabs. This is an
advantage to the traveller, for much time is lost by the
camels cropping herbage on the way. The files of
camels are twenty and thirty in number, and sometimes
these files are double. I imagine in mountainous dis
tricts they are untied, otherwise one camel slipping or
faUing, would draw another after it, and so the whole
line would be thrown in confusion. In the palms
noticed two smaU birds, white bodies, head and wings
black. With the exception of the diminutive singing
sparrow, and a few crows, these are aU the birds I have
seen in the oasis. Saw several Aheer Touaricks just
arrived, and found them tall, weU-made, comparatively
fair, and fine-featured ; nothing of the Negro character
about them. All extremely civU to me ; and I certainly
like them as well, if not better, than the ordinary run of
Ghat Touaricks. 'These Aheer Touaricks must be one
of the finest races of men in Central Africa.
Went as usual to spend the evening with Haj Ibrahim.
Had not sat down many minutes before a thundering
knocking was heard at the outer door. An Arab youth
caUed out, " Who's there ?" and "Don't open," to the
slave that had the charge of the court-yard door. The
knocking increased in fury, the tumult of voices without
being terrific; and Haj Ibrahim, at last, recognizing the
party, and yielding to their violence, said " Open." As
soon as the door was thrown back, in poured a host of
o 2

196 THE GREAT DESERT.
Touaricks, like the opening of a deluging sluice, all be
longing to Berka, headed by their acting chief, the
redoubtable Giant! Their first object was to abuse
roundly the Arab youth who had caUed out, "Don't
open." The merchants of Ghadames and Tripoli try to
shut out the Touaricks as much as possible aU times of
the day, and especially just at supper-time, for this is the
hour when the Touaricks prowl about for their evening
meal, like famished evening wolves, seeking whom and
what they can devour. Prowling for food is an absolute
necessity with them, for generaUy they have no food ;
they bring only a very smaU quantity from their native
districts, when they leave to spend some weeks at the
Souk. This foraging party therefore came in for supper.
Haj Ibrahim tried to work up his courage into rage ; but
it was useless, for his struggling ire was at once choked
and quelled by the accents of thunder which The Giant
belched out like old ^Etna. The Giant opened fire upon
the trembling merchant, by asserting the safety and tran
quillity of the country : " There are no robbers or free
booters here ; you buy and sell fiU your bags with
money, and are in peace. Why, then, cannot we eat as
the price of our protection ?" Resistance being very
madness, the supper which Haj Ibrahim had prepared
for himself, was brought out to them, the servant crying
out, not " II pranzo e servito !" but, " This is all the
supper we have for ourselves \" And Uke a wise steward,
he kept a little back for his lord and master. After un
broken sUence, which lasted fuU ten minutes, when every
person seemed to be gasping for breath to speak, and
struggling with some terrible inward commotion of the
spirit, the supper-hunting Touaricks made a simultaneous

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 197
move towards the supper-bowl. About nine big brawny
feUows attacked the savoury cuscusou, for Haj Ibrahim
had the best kind of provisions brought from Tripoli.
The dainty merchant told me he could not eat what was
made in Ghat. Now, The Giant did not join the on
slaught on the merchant's supper, that did not beseem
his dignity as heir of the Sheikhdom of the venerable
Berka ! The chief of the gang, on the principle of
deUcacy and generosity, left the spoU to his men. The
Giant, like Neptune rising to quell the fury of the tem
pest, sat reclining in dignity and authority, with a serene
brow, calmly looking on, and smoking his pipe. Not a
word was uttered, not a sound was heard, but the licking
up the food, and the smacking of the lips of these un
couth, unbidden, uninvited guests. As soon as the
supper was swaUowed up, (only a few minutes,) they
all arose, The Giant first rising, with unabashed effron
tery, and led the way out. In another moment they
were gone ! and the door was shut. It was Uke some
broken and distempered slumber, and the lamps having
nearly burnt out, and aU being dim and dark, rendered
the iUusion complete. The quondam protege of these
chiefs was too iU, too much upset, to speak. I bade him
good night, and returned home, half-admiring The Giant
and his troop, and abusing the foolish parsimony of the
merchant, who ought to have thrown a few lumps of
flesh to these hungry and wolfish sons of The Desert, and
satisfied them at once. One of the party was Hateetah's
brother ; and Hateetah told me next day that he himself
sent them.
2nd. — Our departure is now finally fixed for to-mor
row. The weather is cool, but not so cold as on my

198

THE GREAT DESERT.

arrival. Within the last three weeks it has gradually
become warmer, and the spring enlivening warmth will
soon be succeeded by summer's burning reign. Took a
very pleasant walk round the Governor's palace, and
made a sketch of it, which is subjoined.

Irrigation is the grand means of agricultural pro
duction in Sahara. Without irrigation the oases would
be mere halting-places for caravans, and would afford but
a scanty supply for centres of human existence. But
irrigation has not only sustained and sustains the towns
and cities of the African Desert, but in Asia it has
always been the grand means of maintaining vast popu
lations. The Assyrians of ancient days became great
by irrigation. In the prophets we read, " The waters
made him (the Assyrian) great, the deep set him up on
high with her rivers running round about his plants, and
sent out her little rivers unto all the trees of the field.
Therefore his height was exalted above all the trees of

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 199
the field, and his boughs were multipUed, and his branches
became long because of the multitude of waters, when
he shot forth. All the fowls of heaven made their nests
in his boughs, and under his branches did aU the beasts of
the field bring forth their young, and under his shadow
dwelt aU great nations. Thus was he fair in his greatness,
in the length of his branches : for his root was by great
waters." (Ezek. xxxi. 4 — 7.) The metaphors are ex
tremely expUcit and beautiful, making water the source
of the Assyrian greatness. Nothing can show more
the power of water in the hot and dry chmate of Syria.
But the prophet particularly alludes to the system of
irrigation, as practised on the banks of the Euphrates,
from which river the waters were conveyed in small
streamlets and conduits, " running round about the
plants" in the gardens, and sent out to a considerable
distance in little rhTs to aU the trees of the field. The
immense parterres of Babylon, artificial gardens sup
ported by irrigation, have been celebrated by the his
torians of antiquity. In Ghat, Ghadames, and other
oases of the Sahara, as well as the greater part of the
TripoUne coast, this system of irrigation is now practised
to its fuU extent, and water here shows a power of pro
duction with which we are unacquainted in more humid
and temperate climes. At this time, the barley and
wheat are shooting up simply under the power of water,
which is conveyed to them by small ducts of earth, as
drawn up from the wells, every four or five days. A
buUock, or slave, draws up the water from the wells,
which are of very rude construction, but answer the
purpose. The water is then poured into a receiver of
earth or stone, from which it runs into the small conduits

200 THE GREAT DESERT.
of earth. Sometimes the main conduits are made of
lime-mortar, as in the island of Jerbah. The field to be
irrigated is divided into small squares or compartments,
sometimes oblong of about seven by five feet in size;
each is edged up with a small embankment of earth;
between each line of squares run parallel ducts or gutters
of earth, communicating with one large and common
conduit, which is usually placed, to run better, on the
highest part of the field, and as nearly as possible cutting
it into halves. Whilst the water is being drawn up, a
lad opens each compartment of the field with a hoe or
shovel-hoe, and lets the water into each square, shutting
it up again when the surface of the ground is merely
covered with water. I have seen them tread upon the
springing blades of grass when so irrigating them, to
give their roots more force and tenacity in the ground.
In Ghat this irrigation is repeated every five days, or
less, until the grain is in the ear and nearly ripe.
The Medina Shereef, who expresses sincere sympathy
for my state of "judicial blindness," told me to-day that
I should not go down to the real bond fide pit or abode
of perdition, but to a dull shadowy place, " the region
of nothings," and I might get. out again and ascend to
Jennah, (**.=») "paradise;" and this, because I was near
to them (the Mussulmans), and read and wrote Arabic,
and was not afraid to write or repeat a verse of the
Koran. In our prophets we have, "Thus saith the
Lord, In the day when he went down to the grave I
caused a mourning." (Ezek. xxxi. 15.) "I made the
nations to shake at the sound of his fall, when I cast
him down to hell with them that descend into the pit."

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 201
(Id. 16.) "They also went down to hell with him."
(Id. 17.) In the first verse cited nbtHD is translated
" grave," in the two latter verses " hell." But there is
no reason for the alteration of the term from " grave" to
"heU." The prophets I imagine, like most of us, had
extremely indistinct notions of the future world, and the
place of disembodied spirits, and were accustomed to use
the word n'pNttf (which ought invariably to be translated
grave, or hades, and not heU,) something in the same
manner as my friend the Shereef, for a dreary shadowy
region of imperfect beings or non-entities, a nether limbo
of nothings and vanities.
Took a walk to see the merchants leaving for Soudan ;
many of them were accompanied a short distance by
their friends. It is an affecting thing to part with people
who are about to enter upon forty days of Desert, with
out a human habitation, (the route from this to Aheer.)
Saw Hateetah in my walk. He took a shumlah, or
girdle, by force from Haj Ibrahim. The Consul found
the auctioneer going round with it for sale, and inquiring
to whom it belonged, and hearing it was Haj Ibrahim's,
he took the sash from the auctioneer and told him to go
and acquaint the merchant with what he had done, and
which sash he had taken instead of the turban, offered
to Hateetah by Haj Ibrahim, but refused on account of
its little value. This is a nasty trick to say the least
but as the Moorish auctioneer observed, " Such is the way
with the Touaricks." However, I am persuaded neither
Jabour, nor Khanouhen, would have stooped to such a
shabby dirty manoeuvre. It seems besides, Haj Ibrahim
is giving great provocation to the chiefs who are ap
pointed his protectors at the Souk. They complain that

202 THE GREAT DESERT.
whilst he brings as many goods as twenty ordinary mer
chants, he gives less than any one. So we must hear
both sides of the question. Saw to-day the Moorish
Kady of Ghat for the first time : I had not made his
acquaintance. His son I knew, who was very imperti
nent, insisting that I should give him some tea- because
he was the son of the Kady. This I refused to do, and
Khanouhen praised my conduct and said, I behaved
" like a Touarghee ! " The Kady is an old gentleman,
but dresses superbly in a fine red turban and long flowing
bright-green coat, in full sacerdotal characber, as the
triple-crowned Pope of Ghat. This morning I took
upon myself to scold severely some Ghadamsee mer
chants for introducing the subject of religion before the
ignorant people of Ghat and Soudan. I found a group
of them in the streets when they wanted to speak of
religion. I asked them " If they would do so in Tripoli,
and if not, why here ?" They understood the point of
censure and immediately left off. Some Arabs present,
said, " You are right, Yakob." Vexed at my reproof,
they attacked me on the subject of slaves, asking me
why the English disapproved of slaves ? I replied
sharply, " It is not our religion to buy and sell men,
though it may be your religion."
At the Governor's I observed the style of cutting and
braiding fashionable young ladies' hair, in the example of
his daughters. The forehead is shaved high up, leaving,
however, one long curl or with of hair depending. This
curl is braided and hangs down gracefully over the fore
head. On each side of the head, over the ears, depend
three other separate curls or locks of hair, each double-
braided. Behind the head hang also two other longer

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 203
curls, and each double-braided. Between these curls, as
they detach themselves from the head, the cranium is
clean shaven, and the hair or tuft on the crown of the
head, whence the several curls depend, covers a very
small space. At the end of the braided curls is tied a
piece of coloured string or narrow ribbon, the same as is
done amongst our little dressy nymphs. The hair is
dressed with olive-oil or daubed over with semen, or
Uquid butter. My old negress landlady is a hair-dresser
of the first style, and the fashionable negresses come to
have their wooUy crispy locks dressed by her secundum
artem nearly every day. This hair- dressing takes place
on my terrace, and affords me a splendid field for
observation. I ought to have brought with me into The
Desert the book, "How to observe," in order to have
given a complete and satisfactory description of the
fashionable Libyo-Saharan hair-dressing. The old lady
sits down, spreading out her knees, and the young sable
belle throws herself flat at fuU length sprawling on the
terrace floor, putting her head into the lap of the arbi-
tress of The Desert toUette, her heels meanwhile kicking
up, and sometimes not very decently. The operation
then commences. The wooUy locks, not more than three
inches in length, are gradually drawn up tight to the
crown of the head, and plaited in tiers in the shape of a
high ridge, whilst they are being rubbed over with liquid
butter. The lower circle of the cranium is left all
bare, not a curl depending, and is shaven quite clean.
But this is done previously, for my old negress does not
undertake the profession of shaver, with her other im
portant services. The hair, when fully dressed in this
style, assumes the shape of an oval crown, or the head

204 THE GREAT DESERT.
part of the helmet. Some negresses use false tails as
weU as false locks, as our belles do, the long flowing
curls being preferred by the sooty Nigritian beauties,
in spite of such an ornament being unnatural to them.
These ladies, however, neither paint nor tattoo their faces,
and in general, painting with red and white is not used
by the Libyan and Oriental beauties. In Algeria, how
ever, some of the Mooresses have learnt to paint from
their new mistresses, as an acquirement of French
civilization in Africa. Dr. Shaw is quite right in his
new rendering of the passage referring to Jezebel, " And
she adjusted (or set off) her eyes with the powder of
lead-ore," (2 Kings ix. 30,) which in the common ver
sion is, " And she painted her face," (or, in the margin,
" put her eyes in painting"). This painting of the eye
lids is a custom of great antiquity. It has the effect of
of giving the eye a peculiar prominency, enlarging its
apparent size, and adding to it a greater bewitching
force. The Touarick women, however, disdain the unna
tural adornment, and shame the unmanly conduct of
certain of the Saharan men who actuaUy paint thus
their eyelids. It is a trite saying, that women are
coquettes all the world over. But if mothers will educate
their daughters so, it must be so. Besides cheerful young
ladies are frequently confounded with coquettes, which is
very unfair. Here, of course, there is coquetry as else
where. Why not? I have two neighbours, Negresses,
and sisters, who get upon the house-top every morning,
wash their faces, and oil them to make them shine, as it
is said, " Man had given him oU to make his face to shine."
They then dress one another's hair, which usually occu
pies them all the morning. The toilette here, as with

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 205
us, is a very serious affair. These sable beauties some
times play the coquette with me, which is innocent
enough. I asked my old negress about these and other
coloured residents, and found there were many families
of free negroes in Ghat. My friendly coquetting neigh
bours have a brother who is a free Negro and trades
between Ghat and Soudan. A few of the free Negroes
are perhaps bond fide immigrants, but these are reaUy
very limited. The dress of the women in this place is
extremely simple; it consists solely of a chemise and a
short-sleeved frock, with a barracan used as a shawl, and
thrown over the head and shoulders, when there is
wind or cold. The ladies have sandals, and some of
them shoes. Beads are esteemed only by Negresses.
Those particular beads made of a composition of clay at
Venice and Trieste, are now the fashion. The Touarick
ladies prefer pieces of coral and charms strung round
their neck in necklaces. The arms, wrists, and ancles
are hooped with wood-painted, and generaUy, metal
armlets, bracelets, and anclets. Some ladies hang a small
looking-glass about their necks, which is, of course in
frequent use. The Touarick women industriously weave
the wooUen tobes, jibbahs, or frocks ; they are very cheap,
warm, and comfortable in the water. But the Soudan
cottons are the great Saharan consumption. There are
also now introduced from Europe quantities of, I think,
what are called "Indians" in mercantile slang, or coarse
white cottons. The merchants caU them " new." These
cottons are much liked in Morocco because they are
cheap and pleasant clothing in summer. Men and women
are clothed with them, and they are made up into every
kind of dress. These European cottons are supplanting

206 THE GREAT DESERT.
those of Soudan, which furnish work for thousands in
Central Africa. So the legitimate commerce, already so
limited, is diminishing instead of increasing. Poor
Africa ! thrice-poor, and every way poor, gets nothing
at present by her intercourse with Europe, saving the
enslavement of her unhappy children, and the impover
ishment of her native manufactures. The Niger and
other philanthropic and commercial expeditions have
only laid bare her nakedness — they have not advanced
her one step in the scale of improvement. Connected
with Saharan female dress is naturally that of female
beauty. The beau ideal of an Arab beauty, according
to the Arabian poets Havivi and Montannibi, is, that
"Her person should be slender like the bending rush, or
taper lance of Yemen." This is also the beau ideal of female
beauty amongst Touaricks. I have seen no fat fed-up
women amongst Touaricks, like those in such esteem and
the bon-ton of the Moors. The enbonpoint of Mooresses
is well known, and beauty amongst them is literally by
the weight. Recent discoveries in Malta have made us
acquainted with this enbonpoint, as an essential feature
of female or other beauty in the most early times, say
as far back as the Carthaginian and other ancient set
tlers in Malta. The rude statues lately dug up in that
island are all remarkable for obese processes from the
waist downwards.
The taste of the Arabs has been greatly vitiated, and
the slight, spare, " bending rush" is often rejected for the
bridal beauty who requires a camel to carry her to the
house of her husband. The Moors resident in Ghat have
imported the vicious Moorish ideas, and the Ne°ress
slaves are fattened for the market, and fetch hio-her to
prices.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 207

The dress of Touarick men is more elaborate than
that of their women. The principal garment is the
Soudanic cotton frock, smock-frock, or blouse, sometimes
caUed tobe, with short and wide open sleeves, and wide
body reaching below the knee. Under this is at times
worn- a small shirt. The pantaloons are also of the same
cotton, not very wide in the leggings, and scarcely
reaching to the ancles, and something in the Cossack
style. The frock is confined low round the waist with
the "leather girdle," and often by a sash in the style
of the Spaniards. There is generally attached to it a
good-sized red leather bag, not unlike an European
lady's work-bag, and this is made into various compart
ments, one for tobacco, one for snuff, one for trona or
ghour nuts, another for striking-Ught matters, another
for needles and thread, another containing a little look
ing-glass, &c, &c; and I have seen a Touarghee fop
adjust his toilette with as much coquetry as the most

208 THE GREAT DESERT.
briUiant flirt, — indeed, the vanity of some of these
Targhee dandies surpasses aU our notions of vanity in
European dress. Over the frock, on one of the
shoulders, is carried the barracan or hayk, which is
sometimes cotton, and white and blue-striped, or figured
in checks, of Timbuctoo manufacture, but generaUy a
plain wooUen wrapper. The hayk is wound several
times round the body, and is the only real protection
the Touarick, or his wife, (for the women likewise wear
them,) has, from the cutting cold winds of The Sahara.
A red or white cap sometimes covers the naked shaved
head, but many do not wear a cap, as besides many do
not shave the head. But the grand distinguishing object
in the dress of Touarick men is the Litham (j.LaJJI), from
which article of dress the Touaricks have been caUed
ages ago by historians and tourists of The Desert " The
people of the Litham" (-UAJ1 J-^l). The litham is
nothing more than a thin wrapper, which is first wound
round the head, and then made to cover the whole of
the forehead and partiaUy the eyes, and the lower part
of the face, especiaUy the mouth. The mouth and the
eyes are the two grand objects to protect in The Desert,
and in Saharan travelling, equaUy against heat and cold,
and wind. A Saharan traveller, having his mouth well
covered with the litham, will go at least twenty-four
hours longer, fasting in abstinence, whUst his lips wiU
not be parched with thirst. The litham shelters the
eyes effectuaUy from the hot sand grains, borne on the
deadly wing of the Simoom. A turban is mostly folded
round the head as a mark of orthodox Islamism. The
young beaux prefer the great red sash wound round the
head in shape of the turban.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTUUE TO FEZZAN. 209
The Touarick, from his habit of wearing the litham,
does not like a beard, which, indeed, could rarely be
seen. As it grows, they pull it out, and so in time it
often disappears altogether. In the matter of beard, the
almost sacred ornament of the Moor and the Arab, the
Touarick is placed again in strong contrast with his
Mahometan neighbour. All wear a profusion of talis
mans suspended round the neck, or sewn or stuck
about the head, like so many liberty or election cockades.

This is the usual style of the dress of Touaricks ; and,
with dagger under the left arm, sword swung from the
back, and spear in the right hand, it looks sufficiently
novel and imposing, befitting the wild scenery and wild
sons of The Desert. Many, however, of the Touaricks
go almost naked, whUst the younger Sheikhs occasionally
indulge in the foreign fashions of the Moors of the
north, dressing very fantastically and elaborately.
VOL. II. p

210 THE GREAT DESERT.
3rd. — Our departure from Ghat to Mourzuk, capital
of Fezzan, is now again finaUy fixed for the 5th of the
month, at least three weeks delayed beyond the time
first spoken of. European travellers in Sahara must
always reckon upon these wearying delays. A ghafalah
is just arrived from Fezzan, bringing dates, ghusub, and
wheat. This is a most seasonable relief, for absolutely
there is no food left for the poorer inhabitants of Ghat,
the provisions being carried away by various caravans
which have left us within a few days. I was myself
obliged to borrow from the Governor. Fortunately,
Fezzan is near, or the Souk of Ghat, with its thousand
slaves, would be often reduced to great extremities, there
being no capital invested in keeping up a supply of
provisions. Haj Ibrahim complains of Hateetah, and
considers him the worst of the Touarghee Sheikhs. The
merchant " has reason."
CaUed to see Haj Ahmed. Met the Governor near
his gardens, and he invited me to go and look at them.
Was agreeably surprised to find a really splendid plan
tation of date-palms, underneath and amidst which were
some of the choicest fruits, the fig, pomegranate, and
apricot. He has also planted some hedges of Indian
fig. The plantation might cover a dozen acres. It is
the work of eighteen years of the industrious Marabout,
but the palms are still in their youth, some even in their
childhood. It is important to mention, this beautiful
plantation was a waste of sand before the Governor took
it in hand, but the whole of it, by the assistance of
water and irrigation, his persevering industry has made
to bud and " blossom as the rose." Were the rest of the
wealthy residents to imitate the Marabout, they would

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 211
in a few years make Ghat a large and most lovely oasis
of Desert. Water is complained of as to supply, but
there is water enough to irrigate an oasis of five times
the present extent. So in Ghadames, so almost in every
Saharan oasis. The Governor encourages his sons to
industry, by giving each a plot of ground to cultivate
for himself. I saw a fine field belonging to one of his
sons, which has been under culture only three years. It
is sown with barley and wheat, and planted with rows
of sprig-palms, in the very chUdhood of growth; but,
by the time the sons of the Marabout are married, and
have young famUies, these green-shooting palm-sprigs
will be branching trees high up, bearing mature and deli
cious fruit. Nature furnishes pretty and striking lessons
of industry, more affecting to the observant mind than
the lessons of the most eloquent moralist. There are
also shoots of the fig-tree and the pomegranate set
around a pool of crystal water, the embryo paradise of
the future. The son, whose garden this was, said to
me, in reply about the supply of water, " See, the water
comes from a spring near that hUl of sand. I dug the
weU, and God gave me the water. God does not give
water to aU when they dig." I went forward, and saw
a refreshing spring bubbling out from beneath the sandy
bosom of The Desert.
It is quite a pleasure now to walk about Ghat, the
noisy rabble is hushed, and the Touaricks, excepting
some chiefs of Berka, are aU gone. The remaining
Ghadamsee merchants are as pleased as myself that the
Touaricks are gone. A strange hallucination got pos
session of my brain to-day. "I determined I would
stop five years in Africa. I would visit all the great
p 2

212 THE GREAT DESERT.
kingdoms of Nigritia. I would write the history and
legends of the ten thousand tribes of Africa from their
own mouths. Then I would return with these spoUs
and treasures of Africa to my fatherland." Vain
phantoms of ambition, only to fever my poor brain !
The first untoward event would lay me prostrate on the
burning plains, leaving my bones scattered and bleaching,
a monument to deter and dismay the succeeding wan
derer of The Desert  One of the occupations
of the poor in this country, by which they get a bit of
bread, is breaking date-stones, something analogous to
our stone-breakers on the high roads. The date-stones
are taken one by one, and put on a big round stone within
a circle of a roll of rags, and another stone is used to
crush or pound them. The pounded stones are sold to
fatten sheep and camels upon. The poor earn two karoobs
(twopence) a day in this manner, on which many are
obliged to Uve. Hard is the lot of the poor in every
clime !
Afternoon late, I went to the range of Wareerat
mountains, to collect a few geological specimens, accom
panied by a slave. All our senses deceive us. The
world is a world of delusions and deceptions, and we
are dupers and dupes, as it happens. After continuing
a couple of hours, the base of the range, which seemed
always close upon us, still receded and was receding.
On the plains of Africa bounded by mountain ranges,
one is as much at a loss to measure distances as the
landsman at sea, when measuring the distance from his
ship to the rocks bounding the shore. My negro
Cicerone advised to beat a retreat, assuring me I should
not reach the chain by daylight. We looked round on

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 213
the city and found it fast diminishing and disappearing
in the distance, in the fleeting twilight of the evening.
We returned an hour after dark. On the north we
espied a few camels, a Fezzan provision caravan, winding
their slow length along like a line of little black dots in
the sand. My companion told me he was captured in
war. The people are always fighting; some to get
slaves, others from " a bad heart." He was afraid to go
back to his country for fgar of being recaptured, resold,
and made again to recross the Desert. The domestic
and political history of Africa is an eternal cycle of
miseries and misfortunes ; better that the African world
had not been created. My negro companion is called
Berka Ben-Omer, to distinguish him from another slave
of his master caUed Berka. Frequently both slaves and
free men have but one name, or one name is employed
in speaking of them. When there are many of the
same name in their circle of acquaintance or town, then
the names of the fathers are used. Joshua, in The
Scriptures, is usuaUy distinguished in this way when his
name is mentioned, " To Joshua, son of Nun." (Joshua
ii. 23.) The Ben-Omer above, is the " son" of Omer.
Spent the evening with Haj Ibrahim. Found Hateetah
with the merchant. They had made it up, and Ha
teetah told me, in the morning, there was now peace
between him and Haj Ibrahim, since he, Hateetah, had
got the large red sash. The Sheikh related news from
Fezzan, respecting the ravages of the son of Abd El-Geleel
in Bornou, who was attacking the Bornouese cara
vans. Hateetah then made a long speech, in which
he recommended me to the care of the merchant, calling
upon Haj Ibrahim " To swear by his head that he would

214 THE GREAT DESERT.
take as much care of me as of himself." This was
unnecessary, for Haj Ibrahim had shown himself more
substantially friendly to me than any other merchant at
Ghat. The Consul excused himself for not accompa
nying me to Fezzan, by stating that his camels had
not come up from the country districts : this was a mere
excuse. But the road was perfectly safe, and we did
not require the protection of the Sheikh. To-day Ha
teetah did not beg. r
Uh. — A fine morning, weather very warm and sultry.
The town is well nigh empty. When aU the caravans
are gone, Ghat will sink into the stillness of death.
This is the case with all the Saharan towns, which are
blad-es-souk, " a mart of trade," taking place periodicaUy.
The Governor finds the trade in slaves so thriving, slaves
having fetched a good price this year, that he is sending
this morning two of his sons to Soudan to purchase
slaves. Kandarka left also this morning. I went to
see him off. Saif zain, wahad, " A good sword, one!"
he exclaimed as usual. He then made me a long speech.
" Put yourself under my sword, no man can resist the
sword of Kandarka ! (drawing his sword from the scab
bard, and making a cut with it.) Be my witnesses, ye
merchants of Ghadames! (some of whom were present.)
I wiU give you, Yakob, a good camel, a mahry. Water
you wiU have first, sweet water. Wood there wiU be
always ready for you to make a fire and cook the cus
casou. I am the right hand of En-Nour (Sultan of
Aheer). You wiU le my friend, Yakob, before the
Sultan. In our towns, we have cheese, butter, wheat,
sheep, buUocks. You Christians have none like them.
Make haste back, make haste, and come to Aheer."

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 215
Hateetah seldom spoke to me of religion, but to-day
the Consul said, " What sort of Christian are you ? I
hear there are as many Christians as there are sands"
(taking up a handful of sand).
The Author. — "And what sort of Islamites are you
Touaricks ? for you are many, as many as we."
The Consul—" We are of SicU Malek :" ($. e., Malek-
ites like Arabs).
I asked then the Consul what was the meaning of
Targhee, who replied En-nas, or " people." Indeed, the
word Targhee seems to have the same signification as
Kabyle, that is, " tribe," or " nation," both words denoting
people of the same original stock.
5th. — The morning of our departure! 
At length comes the end — the end of aU things, joys
or sorrows — even in The Desert, where delay and pro
crastination are the dull and wearying gods of ceaseless
worship. Rose early to pack up, and pay take-leave
visits. Weather is mUd ; the caravan wUl move slowly on
account of the slaves; the journey is short; the route is
safe ; aU things promise a favourable end of my Saharan
tour. The mind looks with regret upon leaving places
become famiUar, but rises buoyant at the thought of see
ing new sights and scenes. CaUed upon the Governor to
bid him adieu. His ExceUency said, he should see me
at the moment of departing. Found him with some
people of Touat, who said : — " The English are very
devUs ; they have two eyes behind their heads, as well
as two before." I did not quite understand their allu
sion. Called on Haj Ibrahim, who had been packing up
for three days past, and yet things were stUl in great
confusion. To my astonishment, I found the merchant

216 THE GREAT DESERT.
surrounded with a group of people in the greatest ex
citement, the master-figure of the group being The
Giant Sheikh, foaming with rage, and threatening to cut
Haj Ibrahim's throat on the road, unless he made him
some sufficient present, in acknowledgment of his
authority as heir-apparent of the Sheikhdom of Berka.
The Ghatee merchants, all the most respectable of whom
were in this melee, kept screaming, and some of them
puUing hold of Haj Ibrahim, to give a trifle, (a couple of
dollars,) to The Giant, and get rid of him. Hateetah
and other Touaricks were also present. Meantime, The
Giant bullied, menaced, swore, and thundered things
horrible and unutterable  Amidst this
bedlam din, Haj Ibrahim at length got a hearing, and
mustered up courage enough to defend himself: — "You
caU your's a peaceful country,- — How? Is not this the
conduct of bandits ? I know (recognize) no person but
Berka. Him I have given a present. What was de
manded I have given Berka. I wUl not now give more
presents, and not indeed by main force. It is robbery!
Go and take my camels." The Giant, who Ustened to
these few words, spoken distinctly and energetically, with
a brow overcast, like a storm-cloud charged with the
electric fire, and a bosom heaving and boiling with
wrath, got up from where he lay sprawling, (" many a
rood,") and very deliberately took hold of his broad
sword (I began to be alarmed), and with it fetched
Hateetah such a stroke on the back with its flat side,
as made him cry out with pain. Then addressing his
subordinate sternly and laconically, Enker, heek*, "Get up
* &k&> Sj\ , the Touarghee language.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 217
quick !" he strode off a few paces. Hateetah instantly
foUowed, and the other Touaricks. Now turned round
The Giant, and said in Arabic : — " AUah Akbar, the
camels ! AUah Akbar, the camels ! Good, good !
Allah Akbar, the camels!" They went off (or
rather pretended to go) to seize the merchant's
camels. These gone, the merchants of Ghat set all
upon Haj Ibrahim, " What a fool you are ! Why
not give the long feUow a couple of doUars ? If you
won't, we shaU give the Sheikh the money ourselves."
One of them turned to me, " Why, Christian, what is a
couple of doUars to Haj Ibrahim ? That's the value ?"
(putting his hand to his nose.) The reader may easily
guess how this stupid obstinacy of the merchant ended.
The Haj forked out, with a bad grace, and the money
was carried after The Giant, one of the Ghat merchants
adding two more doUars. I was pleased with this trait
of the Ghateen, who were determined we should not go
off in this uncomfortable plight. The Giant I did not
see again ; I regretted to part with him in this manner.
Under his huge and unwieldy exterior he concealed the
most tender and generous disposition. His Giantship
never begged of me; and when I gave him a little
tobacco, he thanked me a thousand times. He was
always cheerful with, and had some joke for his friends.
After aU, my plan is best : to make the necessary pre
sents at once, and voluntarily ; to give aU the Sheikhs
a trifle, and then you are at peace with aU.
About 2 o'clock in the afternoon, to our great satis
faction, we got clear and clean off. Hateetah came out
to see me start, and walked half a mile with me on the
road. He was extremely kind. It is probable, he

218 THE GREAT DESERT.
begged of me so much, because his brothers and cousins
incited him, amongst whom I know he shared the pre
sents which he received. I now put my hand in my
pocket, and gave him aU the money I had left, half a
dollar and a karoob! He affectionately shook me with
both hands. I then passed the Governor, who was
waiting for us. His ExceUency shook hands very
friendly, and said, " And EUah, Yakob" (God be with
you, James !)
During my fifty days' residence in Ghat, although I
received numberless petty insults, I kept out of all
squabbles, and made as few complaints as possible to
the authorities. In fact, I may safely say, and without
presumption on my part, if I could not live in peace
with these people a few weeks, no other European com
ing after me could.
It is now time to make a few observations upon the
general character of these Saharan inhabitants, and com
pare their social state with that of ours in Europe.
Crime against society, consists mainly in lying or
duplicity, and imposture, in thieving, in sensuaUty, and
in murder. Veracity, honesty, continence, and respect
for human life, distinguish a moral people. We have to
try the Saharan populations of Ghat and Ghadames by
these four cardinal points or principles, and compare
them with the nations of Europe. WhUst resident in
Ghadames, not one single case of cutting or maiming, or
manslaughter, occurred, nor did I hear of any in neigh
bouring countries. Of course, I exclude altogether the
depredations of a nation or tribe of robbers, as well as aU
the skirmishes between the Touaricks and the Shanbah,
which have nothing to do with the question of the social

PEEPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 219
condition of the Saharan towns that I visited. In
Ghat, three cases of cutting and wounding occurred, the
gashes on the arms received by two slaves from a Touar
ghee, and the attack on the Ghadamsee trader whilst at
prayers, also by a Touarghee. These are the only cases
which occurred during my residence here, although a
mart or fair, and the rendezvous of tribes of people from
all parts of Central Africa and the Great Desert ! . .
. . . So much for the sacredness of human life
among the barbarians of The Desert ! 
With respect to theft and thieving, I have already noticed
that thieving is only practised by the hungry and starved
slaves of these towns, that amongst the people of Gha
dames, as likewise amongst the Touaricks, theft is un
known as a crime. The exceptional cases of theft which
are brought to notice can be easily traced to strangers.
The Touaricks certainly at times levy black-maU in open
Desert, but do not rob in the towns; and the black-mail
is not considered by themselves as theft, nor, indeed, is
it strictly such, being exacted by the Touaricks as transit
duties, or as presents for protection through their dis
tricts, or as tribute, and under a variety of such rea
sons and pretensions. What is legaUy fixed on the
Continent of Europe, is here left to the caprice and
greediness of the Sheikhs, and the liberality or stinginess
of the trader. As to incontinence, this is more a secret
crime. But the sexual habits of the Touaricks, and
their domestic amours, are purity itself, compared to
the sensuaUty which disfigures and saps the vitals of
society in aU the southern nations of Europe. The hard
ships of The Desert are the greatest safeguards against
indulgence in, or the pleasures of, an emasculating sen-

220 THE GREAT DESERT.
suality amongst the Touaricks, whilst the ascetic habits
of the Maraboutish city of Ghadames sufficiently protect
that people from the general indidgence of libertinism,
and unnatural crimes. Intoxication, or habitual drunken
ness, is, of course, unknown in these Saharan regions.
An inebriated woman would be such a wonder as is
described in the Book of the Revelations. As to vera
city, I have told the reader, the Touarghee nation is a
" one-word" people. We cannot expect the same thing
from the commercial and make-money habits of the
Moors of Ghadames, but they rank much higher for
veracity than the Moors of The Coast, which latter have
the superior advantages of direct European contact. In
my estimate of Saharan populations, I have confined
myself to Ghat and Ghadames ; the oases of Fezzan, and
the city of Mourzuk, have become too much vitiated by
contact with The Coast and the Turks for affording fair
specimens of Saharan tribes. Let us then compare what
has been said to those hideous scenes of crime, of im
modesty, and drunkenness, which abound in the great
cities of Europe — the ever-present, ever-during stigma
on our boasted civilization ! — and ask the paradoxical
question, What do we gain by European and Christian^
civilization ? We have Chambers of Legislature, infal
lible aud omnipotent ParUaments, princes fuU of the
enUghtenment of the age, and reigning by divine right,
or the sovereignty of the people, or what not ; — we have
hierarchies of priests and ministers of religion, we have
a Divine revelation ; — we have philosophers, poets, and
rhetoricians, aU enforcing the sublime morals of the age,
with reason or fancy and the attractions of the most
cultivated intellect; — we have science exhausting nature

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 221
by its discoveries ; — we have our fine arts, and the arts to
humanize and exalt the characters of men ; — we have our
benevolent, philanthropic, and scientific societies; — we
profess to govern the destinies of the world, to direct
the inteUect of aU nations, and to advance the being of
man to the enjoyment of immortal, imperishable Ufe !
 And what else profess we not to do?
Now then, what are the results ? We have the govern
ing authorities of a neighbouring people a mass of cor
ruption4-; — we have the States of the North, so Uttle
acquainted with the arts and justice of Government that
planned conspiracies and consequent massacres of whole
classes are now and then had recourse to, and found
requisite to preserve the apparent order of society.
Amongst ourselves, we Englishmen, have in aU our great
cities, the frightful excrescences of crime, too frightful
for the pure and simple-minded Saharan tribes to look
upon. Our common habits of intoxication and intem
perance, and the intoxication of our women, would make
the Desert man or woman shrink away from us with
horror. Our country is fiUed with prisons, aU weU
tenanted, whUst the Desert cities have no one thing in
the shape or form of a prison. Then look at the Thug-
gism and open-day assassinations of Ireland ! In truth,
these Saharan malefactors are the veriest minutest fry of
offenders, the minnows and gudgeons of guUt compared

* As to what has taken place, and is happening by the introduc
tion of what is called French civilization into Africa (Algeria), and
how the morals of the people, natives and foreigners, are affected,
the things are too horrible to be here related. The annals of Nor
folk Island, and the Bagnes of Toulon, would be outraged by their
recital.

222 THE GREAT DESERT.
to the Irish Thuggee of Tipperary*. Poverty is the
giant of our United Kingdom, and the incarnate demon
of unhappy Ireland ; and, with us, people die of starvation
 The Desert, on the contrary, offers the
strongest paraUel of contrast possible. Poverty there is,
but it is wealth compared to ours, and our wants, and no
person that I heard of, whUst resident in The Desert, died
of starvation. Of course, I omit the traffic in slaves,
which has nothing to do with the social state of the
Saharan towns I am describing. I omit likewise the
condition of the Arabs of the TripoUne mountains, and
the terrible exactions, of the Turks upon them and other
provinces in Tripoli, which indeed are a part of the
European system I am now animadverting upon. But I
shaU stop this tone and style of animadversion. I am
sick at heart with the parallel, of contrasts between our
barbarian and civilized social , systems ; it is so unsatis
factory, it is so disheartening, and takes away all hope,
* I should be sorry to apply to a minister of any religion the
opprobrious epithet of a " Surpliced Ruffian." It would seem,
however, that Archdeacon Laffan aspires to the " bad eminence"
of the apologist of assassins. What would my readers say, were I
to report the Ministers of Islamism in The Desert to be the abettors
of assassination 1 Or what would they have said, if a priest had
been found to be the secret or open instigator of the o;M<m'-bandit
Ouweek, in his violent threat to murder me, because I chanced to
be a Christian, or rather, a non-believer in Mahomet. We should
not have found words sufficiently strong to express our reprobation
of such priestly intolerance and wickedness. And yet Ouweek
would have only acted out his religious principles in their stern
literality, — .^AljJui' — "kill them" (the infidels), as frequently
written in the inexorable Koran; whilst Archdeacon Laffan's
preaching is diametrically opposed to his religion, whose holy and
clement command contrariwise is, — "to forgive our enemies, and
bless those who curse us."

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE TO FEZZAN. 223
aU faith in the progress and perfectibUity of the human
race. One thing, however, is certain, that unless we can
bring our minds to form a just appreciation of ourselves,
unless we can learn to know ourselves, there is no hope,
no chance of advancing in our social and moral con
dition. Our slave caravan stretched across the plain or bed
of the Wady of Ghat eastwards, to the black range of
Wareerat, and turning round abruptly north by some
sand hUls, we encamped after three hours. It is from
this place the Ghat townspeople fetch their wood.
The fire-wood is gathered from the lethel tree. Our
caravan consists of eleven camels, five merchants or pro
prietors, some half dozen servants and about fifty or
sixty slaves. I have my nagah and Said, as before.
Nearly all the slaves are the property of Haj Ibrahim.
They are mostly young women and girls. _ There are a
few boys and three chUdren. The poor things on
leaving Ghat, as is then- wont on encountering The
Desert, got up a song in choruses, to give an impetus to
their feelings in starting. For myself, The Desert has
become my most familiar friend. I felt happy in again
spreading my pallet upon its naked bosom, by a shady
bush of the Lethel.

224

CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.
Slavesvery sensible to theCold. — Well of Tasellam. — Saharan Hunts
man. — Atmospheric Phenomenon. — My Adventure at the Palace
of Demons. — Denham and Oudney's Account of the Kesar
Jenoun. — The Genii of Mussulmans. — Desert Pandemonium
compared with that of Milton. — Coasting the Range of Wareerat
or Taseely. — Soudan Species of Sheep. — Soudan Parrot. — The
Lethel Tree.— The Tholh, or Gum-Arabic Tree. — Falling of
Rain in The Desert. — Oasis of Serdalas. — My Companions of
Travel. — Weather Hot and Sultry. — The Slaves bear up well. —
The Ship of The Desert. — Extremes of Cold and Heat. — Mau
soleum of Sidi Bou Salah. — Serdalas, a neglected Oasis. — The
Sybil of The Sahara. — Death and Burial of two Female Slaves. —
Dirge on the Death of one of them, whipped at the point of
Death. — Power of the Sun in Sahara. — Desert Mosques.
6th. — Rose early, but did not start until the sun was
well up, on account of the slaves. These Nigritian
people cannot bear the cold. Our northern cold affects
them more than their southern heat does us. Heat can be
borne better than cold in Saharan traveUing. Am glad
to see that Haj Ibrahim has a large tent pitched for the
greater part of the miserable shivering things. It is
made of rough tanned buUock skins, and holds the heat
like a shut-up furnace. These tents are brought from
Soudan, and after being used for slaves journeying over
Sahara, are sold for so much leather. Touaricks also use
them in their districts. In truth, Haj Ibrahim treats
his slaves as much like a gentlemanly Moor as he well
can or could do, all their wants being attended to, and
no freedoms being taken with the young women. Their

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 225
greatest hardship is to walk, but after a night's rest, they
partiaUy recover. I may add, this is the best equipped
caravan I could travel with, and, perhaps, hardly a fair
specimen to judge of for ordinary slave-caravans. We
continued our route along the chain of mountains to the
east, having, on our left, a corresponding ridge of low
sand lulls. During the day, we traversed a broad deep
vaUey or wady, and, indeed, water had covered a good
part of it in the early winter of this year. Here was
abundant herbage, and camels feeding belonging to the
people of Ghat. There is also a weU of water out of
the Une of route on the left, about one and a half days'
from Ghat, but having a good supply, it was not neces
sary to seek it. It is called Tasellam. Here we met a
hunter, — " An African
That traverses our vast Numidian deserts
In quest of prey, and lives upon his bow
Coarse are his meals, the fortune of his chase;
He toils aU day, and at th' approach of night,
On the first friendly bank he throws him down,
Or rests his head upon a rock tiR morn ;
Then rises fresh, pursues his wonted game,
And if the foUowing day he chance to find
A new repast, or an untasted spring,
Blesses his stars and thinks it a luxury.'-
The Targhee huntsman was clothed in skins, and was
a genuine type of the hardships of open Desert Ufe-
The objects of his chase were gazeUes and ostriches, and
the aoudad. His weapons were smaU spears and a match
lock. A most sorry-looking greyhound slunk along at
his heels, the very personification of ravening hunger.
Writer. — " Targhee, where are you going ?"
Huntsman. — " I don't know."
VOL. II. Q

226 THE GREAT DESERT.
Writer. — " Where have you been ?"
Huntsman. — " Over the sand :" (Pointing west.)
Writer. — " Have you caught anything ?"
Huntsman. — " Nothing."
Writer. — "When do you drink ?"
Huntsman. — " Now and then."
Writer. — " Have you anything to eat ?"
Huntsman. — " Nothing."
Writer. — "When did you eat anything last?"
Huntsman. — " I forget."
I threw him down from my camel some barley-bread
and dates. He picked them up, but said nothing, and
went his way. Turning round to look after him, I saw
him cut across to the mountains on the east.
Observed to-day some curious atmospheric phenomena.
A light vapour, the lightest, airiest of the airiest, swept
gently along the surface of the ground, but as if unim-
pelled by any secret influence. It was also dead calm.
The vapour continued to sweep before us, tUl at length it
suddenly rose up to the sky in the form of a spiral
column of air, and then disappeared. In this valley,
which widened as we advanced, we once or twice saw the
mirage running along the ground like prostrate columns
of foam, striking out sparklings of light.
Towards noon we had a fuU view of the celebrated
Kesar Jenoun — " Palace of Demons," to the west ; in
coming to Ghat we had it on the east. As we neared it,
Haj Ibrahim said to me, " Well, Yakob, we must go
and see the great Palace of Demons. We must see
what it is, and you must write all about it."
At 4 o'clock p.m., we encamped right opposite its
eastern side. On encamping, I looked about for Haj

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 227
Ibrahim, and found him busy unpacking. I then very
carelessly determined to start myself alone. I thought
it, however, a good opportunity to show the people of
the caravan that I was not influenced by superstitious
fears, and that, as an EngUshman and a Christian, I
cared httle about their dreaded Palace of Demons. Haj
Omer, the merchant's servant, caUed out after me on
starting, "Be off, make haste, youTl be back by sun
set." I equipped myself with the spear and dagger of
Shafou, and started off at a good pace, making a straight
and direct cut to The Palace. I scarcely noticed any
thing on the road going along, staring with fuU face at
the Huge Block of Mountain. But, on getting out of
sight of the encampment, and, under the shadow of
this "great rock in a weary land," I unaccountably felt
the influence of those very superstitious fears and terrors
which I was so anxious to combat in my feUow-traveUers.
I then solUoquized to myself, "What a poor creature is
man, how weak, how miserable ! how exposed to every
whim and foUy which a credulous mind can invent'.''
Thus sohloquizing, I got within the mysterious precincts
of the Great Mountain Rock, in the course of three-
quarters of an hour. I had, however, stUl more fear of
the living than the dead, and said to myself mechani
cally aloud, " Man has more to fear from the Uving than
the dead;" and I looked around anxiously this way, and
that way, and every way, if perchance there might lurk,
as the demon of the mountain, some stray bandit. Re
assuring myself, my thoughts turned on science. I
wished to astonish the boobies of the British Museum by
geological specimens from the far-famed palace of mortal
and immortal spirits, built in the heart of The Great
Q 2

228 THE GREAT DESERT.
Desert. I picked up various pieces of stone which lay
scattered at its rocky base. But I found nothing but
calcareous marl, or basaltic chippings and crumblings,
some of cream colour, some lavender, some purple, some
red-brown, some nearly black. This done, as connoisseur
of geology, I stood stock stiU and gaped open-mouthed
like an idiot, at the huge pyramidal ribs of The Rock.
Then I bethought me I would ascend some of these off
shoots of the mountain, and take a quiet seat of
observation from off one of the battlemental turrets which
capped its many-towered heights, over aU the subjected
desert and lesser hills and rocks below. But I soon
changed my mind ; not recognizing any decided advan
tage in scrambling up — God knows where — over heaps
upon heaps of crumbUng faUing rock. I now turned my
back to the Demons' Cavern, without having had the
honour or pleasure of making a single acquaintance
amongst these demi-immortals, much to my regret, and
my face was towards the encampment. At least I
thought so. I saw at once that the king of day was
fast going down to sup on the other side of The Palace,
or perhaps with the Demons, and I must hasten back to
my supper. I started on my return as carelessly as I
came, with this foolish difference, that, although not
remarking a single part of my way hither, I fancied I
would take a shorter cut back to supper, beginning to
feel hungry, having eaten nothing since morning. In
fact, I soon got into another track upon this absurd
idea of shortening the route. I recommend my succes
sors in Saharan travel, never to try short-cuts in un
known places. In ten minutes I made sure of my
encampment, and ran right up to some mounds of sand

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 229
topped with bushes, where I expected to find Said with
the supper already cooked, and the nagah lying snugly
by, eating her dates and barley. But that was not the
encampment. The sun was now gone, and following
hard upon his heels were lurid fleecy clouds of red, the
last attendants of his daUy march through the desert
heavens. I now looked a little farther, and said to
myself, " There they are !" I went to "There they
are," and found no encampment. I continued still
farther, and said, " Ah, there they are !" and went to
" Ah, there they are !" and found no encampment. I
now made a turn to the south, and saw them quietly
encamped under "various mounds," and went to "various
mounds," but the encampment sunk under the earth, for
they "were not." AU was right, and "never mind," I
should soon see their fires, and was extremely glad to
notice aU the hght of day quenched in the paUng Ught
of a rising crescent, some five or six days old. I thus
continued cheerfuUy my search another quarter of an
hour, when aU at once, as if struck by an electric shock,
it flashed across my mind, " Peradventure, I might be
lost for the night !" and be obliged to make my bed in
Open Desert. I have seen in my Ufe-time people strike
a dead waU, as a convenient butt against which to vent
their iU-disguised rage. I now must have a victim for
my vexation. It was not wanting. I felt something
heavy and dragging in my pocket. The half hour's
running about had reminded me of some untU now un
noticed heavy weight, and this was the stones, and these
were my grand specimens of geology. I quietly took
out aU the stones from my pocket, and threw them deli
berately but savagely away, certainly a very proper

230 THE GREAT DESERT.
punishment for leading me such " a wild-goose chase,"
such " a dance," over The Desert. In my wrath I was
not disheartened. Now, as it was dark, I began to
ascend the highest mounds of Desert, from whose top I
might descry the fires of our encampment. I wandered
round and round, and on, now over, sand and sand-hUls,
now cUmbed up trees, now upon eminences of sand or
earth-banks, seeking the highest mounds of the vast
plain, to see if any lights were visible, looking earnestly
every way. No light showed itself as a beacon to the
lost Desert traveller — no sound saluted his ear with the
welcome cry, " Here we are !" Felt so weary that I was
now obliged to lie down to rest a little. But soon re
freshed, I determined to return to The Palace, and find
the place which I had visited. The fear and thought of
being lost in The Desert now mastered every other con
sideration, and I started unappaUed to the Black Rock,
without ever thinking of the myriads of spirits which at
the time were keeping their midnight revels within its
mysterious caverns. Got near The Rock, but I saw no
place which I had seen before. The mountain had now
at night assumed other shapes, other forms, other colours.
Probably the demons were dancing all over it, or flutter
ing round it like clouds of bats and crows, preventing
me from seeing its real shape and proportions. Be it as
it may, I could not recognize the place which I had so
recently visited. I now climbed up some detached pieces
of rock to look for lights. I sprang up with the elastic
step of the roe, over huge broken fragments of rock,
aided by a sort of supernatural strength, the stones
roUing down and smashing with strange noises as I was
springing over them. From these crumbUng heights I

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 231
looked eastward, and every way, but no friendly light,
watch-fire, or supper-fire, was visible. I descended,
much heated, in a flowing perspiration, feeUng also the
cold chiU of the higher atmosphere. I began to have
thirst, the worst enemy of the Saharan traveUer, and
fatigue was violently attacking me. I considered (which
afterwards I found quite correct) I had got too far
north. I could not recognize at aU the processes of
detached rock over which I had been scrambling. I
must be several' mUes too high up. I went down along
the sides of the Immense Rock, looking at every new
shape it assumed to find the place where so quietly I
picked up the stones and geologized a few hours before.
AU was vain. Fatigue was overpowering me, and my
senses began to reel Uke a drunken man. Now was the
time to see the visions and mysteries of this dread
abode, and unconsciously to utter sounds of unknown
tongues. Now, indeed, I fancied I heard people caU
me ; now I saw lights ; now I saw a camel with a person
mounted in search of me, to whom I caUed. And, what
is strange, these sights and sounds were aU about the
natural and not the supernatural. For instance, I did
not see the visage of a grinning gobUn just within a Uttle
chink of The Rock, as I ought to have seen. I did not
not see " faery elves" dancing in the moonht beams, as I
ought to have seen. Then boldly I took a direct course
from the mountain over the plain, beheving I should
intercept our encampment. I continued this Une for two
hours, or not quite so much, but I found myself a long way
east over the plain, where was neither camel, nor en
campment, nor object, nor light, nor any moving thing.
I then proceeded north, thinking I had got too far south

232 THE GREAT DESERT.
again. Here I found a group of sand-hiUs, a new re
gion, in which I painfuUy wandered and wandered up
and down. I knew the encampment could not be here.
To get clear of this horrible predicament, I made ano
ther set at the Palace Rock, as if to implore the mercy
and forgiveness of the Genii. In an hour I found myself
again under its dark shadows. I walked up and down
by its doleful dismal sides, thinking if any people were
sent in pursuit of me I might find them. AU was the
silence of the dead — no form flitted by except those
which fiUed my disturbed imagination. I once more re
turned eastward to the plain, but my head was now
swimming, my legs shrank from under me, and I fell
exhausted upon the sand. There I lay some time to
rest. My brain, hot and bewildered, was crowded with
aU sorts of fancies, but my courage did not sink. I was
seeing every moment people in pursuit of me. I heard
them repeatedly call "Yakob." Somewhat composed,
I determined upon giving up the search of the encampment
till day-light, and went about to find a tree under which
to sleep, if I could. I went to one, but did not like it,
being low and straggling on the ground, exposed to the
first chance intruder. I sought another, which I had
before observed, for in this state I was forced to pick
out the objects of the plain. I found my tree, which in
passing before by it I thought would make me a good
bed. I could not find the encampment, but the tree ob
served before, I could find. It was placed on a very high
mound of earth, which was covered with a large bushy
lethel-tree. Happy tree ! I have always loved thy name
since. Under this I crept, but finding the top of the mound
of a sugar-loaf form, I scooped out on its sides, digging

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 233
away with my hands earth and dried leaves, a long nar
row cell, literaUy a grave, determining, if I should perish
hereabouts, this should be my grave. I found it very
snug, for the wind now got up east, and moaned in the
lethel-tree above my head. I drove the spear in the
earth, near " the bolster," and took off the dagger from
my arm. Had on my cloak, which I roUed fast round
me, and got warm.
The midnight wind increased its doleful notes and
heavy moans. Now a gruff piping of a cracked bar-
reUed organ, and now, a wild shriek of one crying in
distress. "Mournfully! Oh! mournfully,
This midnight wind doth sigh,
Like some sweet plaintive melody,
Of ages long gone by.
" It speaks a tale of other years —
Of hopes that bloomed to die—
Of sunny smiles that set in tears,
And loves that mouldering lie !
"Mournfully! Oh! mournfuUy,
This midnight wind doth moan ;
It stirs some chord of memory,
In each dull heavy tone.
" The voices of the much-loved dead,
Seem floating thereupon —
All, all my fond heart cherished
Ere death had made it lone."
My first object was to Ue and rest my senses, so that
I should recover a Uttle of my bodUy strength, as weU
as have my thoughts about me. Of wUd beasts I could
not be afraid ; I knew there were none. Of the wUder
animals stiU, the Desert bandits, I also had every reason

234 THE GREAT DESERT.
to believe there were none. But, from my elevated
position, I could see their approach, or that of friends,
nearly all around me. My only fear was to perish of
thirst, for it attacked me now severely. Thus I lay for
an hour or so, and then got up to watch the objects of
Desert. AU things were deformed in the shadowy
moonlight, and most things looked double with the reel
ing of my poor senses. Several times I imagined I saw
a camel coming, actuaUy passing by a few paces from
the base of the mound. Frightened at these illusions
of the brain, I determined to try to sleep ; my thirst
stUl increased and prevented me. As fatigue left me,
my head became clearer, and more serious thoughts
occupied the mind. The moon, however, I watched,
wheeling her " pale course," for I knew she finished now
her shadowy reign a few hours before morning. It is
impossible to give any outUne of the thoughts which now
rapidly and in wild succession passed my mind : suffice
to say, I committed my spirit to the Creator who gave
it. I repeated mechanically to myself aloud, " Weeping
may endure for the night, but joy cometh in the morn
ing." I now took the bold resolution to return to Ghat,
not wasting my strength in the morning, after having
made a short search in The Desert. It was the only
chance of saving my Ufe, if I could not at once find the
encampment. This resolution kept up the strength of
my mind, and prevented me from sinking into despair.
I had nothing to eat, nor drink, but I might reach Ghat
in the evening of the second day, or if strong enough, I
might get back in one long day. I knew the route
along the line of Wareerat, and could not possibly lose
myself when I was only to pursue the camel-track at

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 235
the base of this mountain range. The only difficulty
was, lest I should turn to the right and get entangled
amongst the sand-hUls and dwarf wood, before I reached
the turning of the road which would conduct me direct
to Ghat. Things which have made an impression in
chUdhood, the soonest recur to the mind in these dis
tressing cases. I thought of poor Hagar with her
Ishmael, exposed to perish with thirst in The Desert :
it was exactly my case, whilst dim vistas of childhood
now fUled up the chasms of opening memory. Byron's
dying gladiator, in the last struggles of death, saw the
green banks of the Rhine, the flowery scenes of his
chUdhood's days, and, amid the horrid din of the Roman
amphitheatre, heard the innocent shouts of his little
playmates. I was now suffering a dreadful thirst, and
might perish unless the same Providence directed me to
the weU, or the encampment, as guided the wretched
handmaiden of Sarah.
Within seven or eight miles from the place where I
now lay, I recoUected there was the well TaseUam, under
the shadow of The Rock. But how to find it, when I
could not find the encampment lying still nearer me !
Then came lesser thoughts and vexations. What was I
to do in Ghat ? How get back even if I escaped with
my life in my teeth to the oasis ? And would not the
first thing, on my escape, be an attack of fever ? Then
recurred to me the words of my friend Fletcher, ' Expose
yourself to no unnecessary risks." The strongest self-
condemnation stung me, I was vexed at my extreme
foUy. ShaU I add, that my thoughts wandered far over
The Desert, skimmed over the surge of the Mediter
ranean, and ascended on the wing of the east wind

236 THE GREAT DESERT.
now cooling my burning forehead, and sought some sad
solace in dear objects of my fatherland. Oh ! the heart
shrinks from revealing to the world its secret thoughts,
its sorrowful regrets, its bitter self-reproaches ! I must
be silent of the rest. I now got up, sleep I could not.
I was rejoiced to see a blacker shade thrown upon aU
night-visible things. The moon had performed her noc
turnal duty, submissive and obedient to the law imposed
upon her by universal nature, and had also sunk back,
like the sun, below the Giant Demon Rock. I then lay
down again, and just before day, after a few moments
of broken sleep, for I even slept and forgot my perilous
pUght, another time I came out of my Uving grave to
make observations. I looked at the eastern and western
horizons, and thought the eastern was the Ughter of the
two, and there was the false dawn, or the dawn itself.
I had often watched these dawns in the route from
Tripoli to Ghadames, and grew wise in interpreting noc
turnal sights and signs by dire experience. I lay down
once more. Half an hour past, I came again and the
last time forth, for aU the east was now inflamed with
the breaking out of day. The wheels of the sun's
chariot were of radiant light vermiUon, the horses, of
darting orient flame, were being yoked on, and I stood
silent and sad to see "the great king of day" mount,
and commence his diurnal course. The Rock of Demons
repeUed the light, and shrouded itself in deeper gloom,
as Desert morn advanced,
" And sow'd the earth with orient pearl ;"
for even in the dry Desert the morning sheds some
moisture, if not dew-drops. But on that Rock my

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 237
thoughts now concentrated — there I must soon return,
and revisit all its dark and rugged precincts. This
was my only chance to meet with any persons sent in
pursuit of me, if such there were. Began to see I had
wandered at least eight miles from the Huge Rock. I
threw my mantle over my shoulders, put the dagger
under my left arm, and took the lance in my right hand,
which felt heavy, for I had become weak and weary with
the past night's traverse of The. Desert, and the painful
vigUs afterwards. Descending from the mound to the
level of the plain, I looked back upon my bed and grave,
as if loth to leave it. As soon as there was light enough
to see objects somewhat distinctly, I prayed to God for
deUverance, and saUied forth with an unshrinking mind.
I was amazed at the illusions of The Desert, for it was
now day; the night might have its deceptions and phan
tasmagoria. Every tuft of grass, every bush, every little
mound of earth, shaped itself into a camel, a man, a
sheep, a something living and moving. Before the day
was hardly begun, I sprang over again to the base of the
Rocky Palace, and saw now the detached pieces which
during the night I had ascended ; but, for the life of me,
I could not find the place I visited first, and made geolo
gical discoveries, never, never to be divulged. I con
tinued to pace up and down, north and south, for an
hour, until weariness began anew to attack me. I sighed
and said to myself aloud, " So soon tired !" I now re
turned to the plain and made another straight cut.
Although the day was pretty well developed I was stag
gered at the deceptions and phantasms of The Desert.
Every moment a camel loomed in sight, which was no
camel. There was also a hideous sameness ! the rea-

238 THE GREAT DESERT.
son, indeed, I was lost. For there were no distinguishing
marks, the mounds followed shrubs, the shrubs mounds,
then a little plain, then sand, then again the mounds and
shrubs, plain and sand, and always the same — an eternal
sameness ! Now faUing into the track of a caravan, I
was determined to pursue it, but it was with great difficulty
I could foUow out the traces. For at long intervals the
hard ground received no impressions of men or camels'
feet, and I repeatedly lost the track, going a hundred or
more yards before I could get into it again. I continued
north. I saw the camels' feet, the sheep's feet, and the
prints of the camel-drivers, and sometimes I thought I
saw my own foot-marks. But the slaves ! Where were
the impressions of the naked feet of some fifty slaves ?
Now I groaned with the anguish of disappointment. I
must abandon the track in despair. I had already pur
sued it painfully over sand and rock and pebbles, and
shrubs, and every sort of Desert ground.
AU this was fast wasting away my Uttle remaining
strength. I now mounted two very high mounds. No
thing lived or moved but myself in the unbroken sUence,
the undisturbed soUtude ! I observed my being too far
north, I must return south. Another camel appeared.
Yes, it was a smaU black bush, on the top of a little
hillock, shaping itself into a camel. Now a marvel —
life I was sure I saw. Two beautiful antelopes, light as
air, bounded by me with amazing agility, and were lost
in a moment amongst the shrubs and mounds of the
desert plain. I fell to musing on natural history, and
accounted for these gazelles by the presence of the weU.
I then recollected the Targhee hunter. For an instant
I forgot my situation. But where was I ? What was I

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 239
doing? Was I to return to Ghat, or perish in The
Desert? My strength was failing me fast. I could not
pursue for ever this wild chase at the base of the
rock of the Jenoun. Under their baleful influence, I
shall wander and wander tiU I drop and perish ! I must
make up my mind. The sun was not yet high up. I
could walk tUl noon on the journey back, and then sleep
a few hours and rest. The chill of the morning had
taken away my thirst. I wrapped a handkerchief over
my mouth, and took aU the precaution I could against the
approaching thirst at noon-day. The lance was heavy.
Shall I throw it away ? Could it not afford me a mo
ment's protection in meeting a single bandit, which class
of men mostly go alone? I keep my lance, but deter
mine to sit down to rest, previous to departing for Ghat.
I had often noticed the Arabs make a straight cut of
route by raising up the right arm, and putting under it
the left hand to support it, and then waving up and down
the right and left arms together. After my short rest,
I mimicked them. Mimickry is instinctive in us. I
singled out for myself a distant hiU on the plain, lying
south in the route by which we had come here. Now
then, I took the first step towards Ghat. I continued
an hour, but oh! how weary I had become. Nature
seemed ready to sink, and I dropped suddenly on the
side of a smaU sand-mound  What shall I
do ?  ShaU I shed tears to relieve me ? 
No, I have long given up shedding tears. And, now !
I must keep up at the peril of my life. My heart
renews its courage. I again get up and begin to walk,
limping along. The small hill was before me — but
should I ever reach even that ?  My strength

240 THE GREAT DESERT.
of body was now gone, though the mind would not
yield  In the last moment of human extremity
 death itself  comes deliverance ! I
continue my route to Ghat. I have just strength to
raise my lance from the sand it pierces. I turn an
instant round to the right hand, and a white figure
passes by  What is that ? A friend or an
enemy ? I continue on. Is this one of our people, or
of strangers ? Shall I take him for a guide ? Before I
can think of it, I espy something in advance. But I fear
an iUusion, another deception. No ! it is the head of a
camel ! I 'spring on with my little remaining stagger
ing strength. To my joy unspeakable, I find myself
upon my own camel — my own little encampment ! But
what a strange, a ludicrous scene ! Here is poor Said
skulking by the supper of the previous night, stUl placed
on the fire, but which is gone out, his hands covering
his face, and his head hanging down, his eyes swollen
with tears but staring on the sand. The camel looks
restless about, and moans. I cry out — "Said!" He
starts up as if from a death-trance. He beUows out —
" Aye wah," and begins to sob aloud. The slaves, close
by, hear the noise and rush upon us. Where are the
people? I see only slaves. They are aU gone towards
The Rock in pursuit of me. I now lie down and
they bring me something to drink*". I begin with a
little cold tea, and then eat a few dates. Afterwards,
we got the supper cooked the previous night heated.
About a quarter of an hour elapsed, when some of the
party returned, and then the rest from the pursuit.
* I hope I offered up a heartfelt prayer of thankfulness to the
Almighty for my deliverance from perishing in The Desert.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 241
They had gone as soon as it was light this morning.
Last night some of them had been after me, and traced
my steps, wandering over the sand, round and round, till
they were nearly lost themselves, and got back to the
encampment with difficulty. As soon as I recovered a
little rest, our people came up to me and began to joke
and laugh. "Ten dollars," said one, "you must give
us for the trouble we have had in seeking for you."
Another said, " Lay down, Yakob, sleep, we wiU wait till
noon before we start, to enable you to rest." It was
now 9, A. m. But the greater number of our party
seemed confused, not knowing what to think or say. In
my absence, the general impression was that I had been
kiUed by the demons. Some, more sober, thought I
might have faUen into the hands of the Touaricks. Now
they said : " You were very foolish, you ought not, as a
Christian, to have presumed to go to the Palace of the
Demons, without a Mussulman, who could have the
meanwhUe prayed to God to preserve you, and Ukewise
himself. The demons it is who have made you wander
aU night through The Desert." The Medina Shereef,
who was of our party, boldly asserted, " The palace is
full of gold and diamonds. The Genii guard it. No
wonder then they were offended with your going, and
struck you as a madman so that you could not return.'
Others asked me what I saw, but would not beheve me
when I told them I saw nothing. So it came to pass,
that I nearly lost my life for the sake of confirming them
more strongly than ever in their superstitions. I, who
was to have taught them the folly of their fears by prac
tical and demonstrable defiance of the Genii confirmed
and sealed the power of the Genii over this Desert.
VOL. II. R

242 THE GREAT DESERT.
But I must observe, my companions of travel did not
adopt the right method of rescuing me from the malig
nant influence of the Genii. If they had sent a man in
each direction from the camp, I should soon have been
found. All going in one direction to The Mountain,
the other routes were entirely unexplored. If ever I
travel The Desert again, I shaU provide myself with a
pocket-compass, and something stiU better, a small tin
or other box, of sufficient size to hold about a quarter of
a pound of crushed dates, or other concentrated food,
and a small bottle of spirits and water. The compass
to be always in my pocket, and the box always tied
round my neck night and day. In the case now nar
rated, with this Uttle stock of provisions I could have
got safe back to Ghat, and waited and rested on the road.
As it happened, there was every probability I should
have perished, if I had not found the encampment. I
continued for a full hour to drink ghusub-water and tea,
with a few dates. Then I ate more solid food, and took
coffee. My mind now rebounded, and the joy of deli
verance seemed as if it would counterbalance the dread
ful anxieties of the past night. What a pure pleasure I
now tasted a few moments! In a freak, I sat down and
sketched The Demons' Palace, laughing defiance upon it
all the while, with the wayward self-will and harmless
spite of a chUd. I took this vengeance on the unlucky
Black Rock.
Now all was passed, I fancied I had merely expe
rienced a distempered dream and ugly vision of The
Desert. But when I rose to mount my camel, I found
it had been no vision — I was obliged to be lifted upon
my camel. Little did I think during the last (to me

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.

243

ever memorable) night, while chasing wearily about the
dreary Desert, my own countrymen had before visited
the same identical Demons' Rock. I had heard, indeed,
some of the people say it had been "written by
Christians." Let us turn now to Dr. Oudney, and hear what he
says about The Rock. On an excursion westward, from
Mourzuk to Ghat, they arrived near Ludinat, in the
valley of Serdalas or Sardalis. At a small conical hill
caUed Boukra, or "father of the foot," the people of
the caravans amused themselves by hopping over it; he
who does it best is considered least exhausted by the
journey. Near this are a few hills, among which a
serpent, as large as a camel, is said to reside. " The
Targhee is superstitious and credulous in the extreme :
every hill and cave has something fabulous connected
with it."
Of the nature of the mountains hereabouts, the
Doctor says, "We entered (after leaving Serdalas) a
R 2

244 THE GREAT DESERT.
narrow pass, with lofty rugged hUls on each side; some
were peaked. The black colour of almost aU, with
white streaks, gave them a sombre appearance. The
external surface of this sandstone soon acquires a shining
black, like basalt; so much so, that I have several times
been deceived, till I took up the specimen. The white
part is from a shining white aluminous schistus, that
separates into minute flakes like snow. The ground had
in many places the appearance of being covered with
snow." They now got on the plain of the Kesar Jenoun.
The hiUs of Tradart or Wareerat (apparently the same
word, but sometimes caUed Taseely) now appeared on
the east, and the high sands on the west. " The Tradart
(or Taseely) range," says Oudney, " has a most singular
appearance; there is more of the picturesque in this
than in any hills we have ever seen. Let any one
imagine ruinous cathedrals and castles ; these we had in
every position, and of every form. (I myself often
thought of Windsor Castle, and the many hoary-headed
old castles of England.) It wUl not be astonishing that
an ignorant and superstitious people should associate
these with something supernatural. That is the fact;
some particular demon inhabits each. The cause of the
appearance is the geological structure. In the distance
there is a hUl more picturesque and higher than the
others, called Gassur Janouu, or DevU's Castle. Between
it and the range there is a pass* through which our
course Ues. Hateetah dreads this hill, and has told me
many strange stories of wonderful sights having been
* It is a very wide valley, nay an extensive plain. But the
Doctor writes about it before he arrives there.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 245
seen; these he firmly beUeves, and is struck with horror,
when we teU him we wUl visit it."
Our countrymen kept the range of Wareerat the
whole day, and were amazed with the great variety of
forms. And when Clapperton thought he perceived the
smeU of smoke the previous night, Hateetah immediately
said it was from the Devil's House. Another smaller
rock is caUed the Chest, under which a large sum of
money is said to have been deposited by an ancient
people who were giants of extraordinary stature. The
present race of Touaricks are, indeed, giants compared
to some of our pigmy European nations. Oudney made
an excursion to Janoun, the Kesar Jenoun. He says,
" Our servant AbduUah accompanied me. He kept at a
respectable distance behind. When near the hill, he
said, in a pitiful tone, ' There is no road up.' I told him
we would endeavour to find one. The ascent was ex
ceedingly difficult, and so strewed with stones, that we
were only able to ascend one of the eminences; there
we halted, and found it would be impossible to go
higher, as beyond where we were was a precipice." It
would appear the Doctor ascended one of the detached
blocks, which I ascended last night to observe the fires
of the encampment. Hateetah got alarmed at the de
parture of Oudney, and Clapperton was not able to
aUay his fears : he was only soothed when the Doctor
returned. The Sheikh was astonished, as much as our
people, when the Doctor said he had " seen nothing."
How like things happen! Even at the distance of
twenty long years, between my visit and the Doctor's, it
seems as if I was narrating one story. The Doctor was
also mainly incited by the same feeling as myself, to

246 THE GREAT DESERT.
observe the geological structure. He observes, " The
geological structure is the same as the range (Wareerat)
that is near." To-day, after twenty years, and without
knowing what the Doctor had written, when I made the
same observation to our people, and tried to persuade
Haj Ibrahim, the most inteUigent of my companions,
that there was nothing in this huge block different from
the mountain range near it, being of the same stone and
consistence, he replied drily, looking at both formations,
"Yakob, it's not true. You see on the Kesar Jenoun
the very stones which the Demons have buUt up Uke the
Castle at Tripoli. When you will be blind, how can
you see? Why not believe in our Genii?"
This leads me to notice the Mahometan belief in
Demons or Genii. According to the best commen
tators, the term ^j^- "Jinn" signifies a rational and
invisible being, whether angel or devil, or the interme
diate species called " genius" or " demon." As the word
Genii is used in the passage of the Koran, "Yet they
have set up the Genii as partners with God, although
he created them," (Surat VI.) some believe it refers
to " the angels whom the Pagan Arabs worshipped, and
others the devils, either because they became their ser
vants, by adoring idols at their instigation, or else
because, according to the Magian system, they looked
upon the devil as a sort of creator, making him the
author and principal of all evU, and God the author of
good only." We aU know what a share the Genii have
in working the wonderful machinery of the Arabian
Nights Talcs. The Touaricks give them still greater
powers, and make them a sort of delegated or deputy

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 247
creators, according to the Magian system, but do not
attribute to them the malevolent passions of an evil
being. They are probably influenced by the Koran in
this, which in the Surat, entitled " The Genii" (lxxii.)
makes a portion of them to have been converted by
hearing the reading of the Koran : " Say, it hath been
revealed unto me, that a company of Genii heard me
reading the Koran, and said, Verily we have heard an
admirable discourse, which directeth into the right insti
tution ; wherefore we believe therein, and we will by no
means associate any other with our Lord." The ancient
Pagan Arabians also believed that the Genii haunted
desert places, and they frequently retired, under cover of
the evening's shade, to commune with these familiars of
The Desert.
It is, perhaps, worth while to compare this Desert
Pandemonium, which the imagination of the Touaricks
has built up amongst their native hills, aided by the
light of the Koran, with what the creative mind of
Milton has constructed by the aid of the learning of his
times, and our own Scriptures. The difference is as
striking as contrast can present. But yet there are some
wonderful affinities, showing that mind is one and the
same amongst barbarian or civUized nations. Blackness
and darkness enter into the situation of both pandemo
niums. The Desert Pandemonium has its piUars and
turrets, its frieze, bas-reliefs, and cornices of ornamental
architecture, though aU done by the hand of " geological
structure," — its dark colours shining with " a glossy
scurf." The Desert Pandemonium is also alive with
myriads of spirits, peopling its subterranean vaults.
The Desert Pandemonium has finally its riches, its jewels,

248 THE GREAT DESERT.
and its treasures, such as Mammon, "the least-erected
spirit," discovered and " led them on" to, in the deeps
of hell. We may now transcribe the description of
MUton's Pandemonium, the great ingredient of contrast
being Ught and splendour amidst the " darkness visible"
of the regions of perdition.
"Anon, out of the earth a fabric huge
Rose like an exhalation, with the sound
Of dulcet symphonies, and voices sweet,
Built like a temple, where pilasters round
Were set, and Doric pillars overlaid
With golden architrave; nor did there want
Cornice or frieze, with bossy sculptures graven ;
The roof was fretted gold."
***** " The ascending pile
Stood fix'd her stately height; and straight the doors
Opening their brazen folds, discover, wide
Within, her ample spaces, o'er the smooth
And level pavement; from the arched roof
Pendant by subtle magic, many a row
Of starry lamps and blazing crezzets, fed
With naphtha and asphaltus, yielded light
As from a sky."
7th — From the Kesar Jenoun, and indeed before arriv
ing there, the vaUey assumed the form of a boundless
plain, widening during the whole of our march to-day.
We had stUl on our right, the chain of Wareerat, and, on
our left, but scarcely visible, the low ridge of sand hills.
We frequently find this sort of Desert geological pheno
mena; a range of rocky hUls or mountains has a paraUel
range of sand hiUs, and the intermediate space is a
broad valley or vast plain. In traversing tins vaUey-
plain, covered now with coarse herbage, now sand now
mounds of earth, now pebbles, now quite bare, our pro-

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 249
gress was precisely Uke that of a ship sailing near the
shore, with bluff rocks and headlands jutting and stretch
ing into the sea. So were we on our Desert ships (the
camels) coasting slowly but surely along; whilst the
mountains and their varied magic shapes continuaUy
mocked our weary efforts, and our strained vision ; now
appearing near, then distant, again near, again distant,
and ever changing their wUd, fantastic forms. I thought
we passed the tree under which I made my grave-bed
of the past night, but here were many mounds and many
dark lethel-trees crowning the many mounds. The
detached rocks I did see, and recognized fully my error.
but which I had conjectured, in wandering so far north
wards. Our people observed justly, "Yakob, we all
went to find you, for we wished all equally to bear the
responsibility. If you had been lost, who knows but
what we should have been aU blamed for having put you
away, or left you behind?" This is, perhaps, but too
true a conjecture. These poor people would have,
perhaps, not only been blamed for my death, but accused
of it. I was glad for their sakes, as well as my own,
that I escaped from a Desert death. The story of the
visiting the Palace of Demons would have been told, of
course, variously by so many different people. How
could they tell the story in the same way! These
varieties of evidence would have been considered unsatis
factory, if not conclusive against them, whilst some
people, suspicious of the Moors, would have believed the
whole was a "cunningly-devised" trumped-up invention.
The deaths of Park and Laing may have been unjustly
charged upon the Africans in this way. How, and for
what they died, is now altogether beyond our investiga-

250 THE GREAT DESERT.
tion. Even the more recent death or assassination of
Davidson is a mystery of The Desert. We encamped
close by a little stunted herbage, on which the camels
scantily fed. Weary with the previous night's adven
ture, immediately on being lifted off the camel, I fell
down fast asleep upon the ground. Our course to-day
due north.
8th.- — Did not rise until the sun was wheeUng his
daily course high up the heavens. Felt better, and
walked a little in the morning. No symptoms of fever
from the former night's exposure. In general the open
Desert is perfectly salubrious. It is in the oases, mostly
situated in the vaUeys, where the fever is generated.
The Demon Temple stiU in view, with aU its mysterious
hideousness, crowned with its grisly towers. It now
stands out in aU its defiant isolation; the sand hills
which broke upon its view, running north and south, are
now seen far beyond. It is its detached condition from
the neighbouring chain of Wareerat, with which its geo
logical structure is indissolubly connected, that has
given this huge pile its supernatural reputation. The
Demons' Rock is apparently a huge square, having four
faces, and requiring a day to make the tour of its rugged
and jutting basements. Its highest turret-peaks may
be some six or seven hundred feet. The wady now has
disappeared, — aU is an immeasurable expanse of plain,
and bare as barrenness and barren wastes can be. I
observed a peculiar mirage to-day — lakes of stUl black
shining water.
A part of our caravan, and not the least interesting,
are six Soudan sheep, which belong to Haj Ibrahim.
Their species is well known, but I must mention what an

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 251
agile and strong animal is the Aheer and Housa sheep,
being brought from both countries. This Soudan sheep
is the best walker in the whole caravan, and the last
which feels fatigue or drops from exhaustion. He
browses herbage as the camel on the way, nibbling all
the choicest herbs, and sometimes strays at a great dis
tance from the caravan. He has had forty days' train
ing from Aheer, and, as a slave said, " He's a better
pedestrian than the mahry." He is an attacking
animal, not scrupling even to attack the hand which
feeds him with a Uttle barley. He is so formidable to
the sheep of the Barbary Coast, that I have seen a whole
flock scamper away at the simple sight of him. He is
taU, his legs long, and his limbs generally better propor
tioned than the common sheep. As he requires no wool
to shelter him from cold in the sultry regions of Central
Africa, Providence has only given him a coat of hair;
and his tail is like that of the common dog. The head
offers nothing remarkable, but his look is bold, and his
heart courageous. He butts fiercely at all strangers, and
he is the only lord of freedom whilst marching over The
Desert. In the companionship of these sheep over The
Desert, they acquire a strong affection for one another,
and I saw at Ghat two separated from a flock with great
difficulty, the whole flock pursuing savagely the man who
had taken away from them two of their compagnons de
voyage. In going over Desert they require little atten
tion, and will go without water for half a dozen days to
gether. When, however, we come to a well, they are the
first that will be served, neither sticks nor blows will
keep them off. We have also, as traveUing companions,
ten or twelve parrots of the common blue-grey Soudan

252 THE GREAT DESERT.
breed. This parrot has a white broad rim round the
eye; its body is a light greyish-blue, legs, beak, and
claws black, under-tail feathers white and upper scarlet.
Each two or three of the parrots have a little round
house to themselves, about eight inches in diameter,
made of skins, and pierced with holes to let in the air
and light, besides a door. Their quarrels are frequent,
for quarrelling seems an essential part of the nature of aU
animals, the rational and irrational, and they often fight
desperately, and are obliged to be separated. They are
carried on the heads of the slaves, being, as these poor
people, the purchased luxuries of the rich. The parrots
are allowed to have an airing and a walk morning and
evening. They all talk in good grammatical Negro lan
guage, and can occasionally aid our researches in Nigritian
tongues. Parrots are brought from as far as Noufee.
The wood in the valley we just left, is the Lethel.
Its leaves are powdered over with a white saline sub
stance, indeed, why not salt itself? Some of these trees
are very large, having very thick trunks and boughs, per
haps forty feet high, and ten feet round the thickest
trunks, which wood, when palm-wood is scarce, is used
instead for building. On the plain, however, the Tholh'5'
began to appear. This tree is found, as noticed before,
in the most desolate places of The Desolate Sahara.
It is sometimes very large for trees here, perhaps thirty
feet high, and six or seven of width round its broadest
* Tholh— AliJI — A cacia gummifera, (Willd.) It bears what the
Moors and Arabs call Smug Elarab (,  ,.«]( k+jA), or "Gum
Arabic." This is the most hardy tree of The Desert, and, like the
karub-trees of Malta, strikes its roots into the very stones.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 253
trunks. The camels browse on it always, and when
hungry crop with avidity a great quantity of the prickles
and thorns, and thorny leaves. It is a mystery to me
how the camel can chew such thorns in its delicate
mouth. The Koran mentions the tholh (Surat lvi.), as
one of the trees of Paradise, which Sale has translated
Mauz, " the trees of mauz loaded regularly with their
produce from top to bottom." But tholh here seems to
refer to a very taU and thorny tree, which bears an
abundance of beautiful flowers of an agreeable odour,
one of the many species of acacia, and not the ordinary
gum-arabic tree.
Near sun-set we left the plain, and I took an everlasting
farewell of the Temple of Genii. Poor inanimate
Rock! which should so much bewilder man's crazy brain,
and fill the desert travellers with such strange fancies.
We turned to the north-west into a gorge of the chain of
Wareerat. In this gorge, besides the usual black sand
stone, with glossy basaltic forms, were large deposits of
chalk, one of which our route intersected, on the top of
the ridge, where also the action of water was extremely
weU marked. The action of water remains a long time
visible in The Great Desert, perhaps twelve, twenty,
nay, fifty years, during which several periods, even in
the driest regions of The Sahara, there is sure to be a
heavy drenching rain, — an overflowing, overwhelming
mass of water faUs on the desert lands. The districts of
Ghat remained some eight or ten years without an
abundant rain, tUl this last winter, when it came in most
overpowering showers'". The action of rain on the
* Dr. Oudney says, who was a man of science : — " Rain some
times falls in the valley (of Sherkee, Fezzan,) sufficient to overflow

254 THE GREAT DESERT.
earthy bosom of The Desert is very much like that of
the action of the sea on its shores, which has led to the
remark, that The Sahara looks as if it been " washed
over" by the ocean. The mounds of earth so fre
quently met with in The Desert are formed by water in
the time of great rains. In this gorge were big blocks
of stone, on which were carved Touarghee characters. It
was fortunate I knew the characters, for the people
wished to persuade me they were those of very ancient
people, and of Christians, whilst none of the party could
read them. They are probably the names of shepherd
and Touarghee camel-drivers, wandering through Desert.
Some of the letters have a very broad square Hebrew or
Ethiopic look about them. The gorge was steep, nar
row, and intricate in the first part of its ascent. We
then descended and encamped between the links of the
chains, which form so many valleys, some broad and
deep. It was a good while after sun-set, when we
brought up for the night, and we had come a very long
day. AU were greatly fatigued, especially the poor
slave girls.
9th. — Rose early, and started early. The feet-marks
of the aoudad were observed on the sand. Course
through the gorge north-east. After a couple of hours
we cleared the gorge, entering upon a broad open plain
or valley. Here I observed the chain of Wareerat was
the surface and form mountain torrents. But it has no regular
periods, five, eight, and nine years frequently intervening between
each time. Thus, no trust can be placed in the occurrence of rain,
and no application made in agricultural concerns." In truth, the
rain which falls in these uncertain intervals, seems to answer no
available purpose, unless to feed the wells and under-currents of
water.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 255
rounded off on the eastern side, and of considerably less
altitude, whilst the peaks of the opposite or western side
were steep and escarpe, owing apparently to the action
of the water in the wady.
Continuing our course on the plain for an hour or
two, we arrived at the oasis of Serdalas, a handful of
cultivation, but very fair and of vigorous growth. The
vaUey or plain of Serdalas, which is also caUed Lu-
dinat, and the site of a Marabet, is an extensive undu
lating plain, bounded east and west by two ranges of
mountains, stretching north and south. Near the spot
of our encampment are weUs of excellent water, seven
or eight of them, and the largest is a thermal spring,
which is about the centre of the oasis. It is banked up,
or rather issues from a rocky eminence, where large
lumps of bog iron may be picked up. Formerly this
spring was fortified, the high walls built around its
mouth still remaining, and there are besides the brick
ruins of a castle close by. Tradition relates that the
oasis was formerly colonized by Christians, and others
say, by Jews. It may, indeed, have been colonized pre
viously to the arrival of the Arabs in Africa by the
ancient Berbers, or Numidians, but the castle itself is of
Moorish modern construction. The present miserable
population does not exceed ten persons, Fezzaneers
and one or two Touaricks, who cultivate a little wheat
and ghusub. The houses are huts of sticks, date-
leaves, and dried grass. Near the great spring is a large
tree, with prickly thorny leaves, not unlike the tholh.
It is called A hatas, u^a^', and was brought from Soudan,
where its species grows to an enormous magnitude. Its
wood makes excellent bowls, spoons, and several useful

256 THE GREAT DESERT.
domestic utensils. This tree measures at least twelve
feet round its trunk; its principal branch is prostrate,
bent beneath the burden of many a Saharan summer's
heat and winter's cold. From the old paralyzed arm,
however, shoot up young green branches, offering a
pleasant shade to the weary and thirsty wayfarer in
these wilds. Under this tree money is buried to a great
amount, but the writings, pointing out the particular
spot, were destroyed by a son of the Marabout, whose
tomb consecrates this desert spot. Several small birds
are hopping about, Uke those seen in Ghat, with white
heads and white under tails, the rest black. This seems
a bond fide feathered tenant of Sahara.
We remain here to-day and to-morrow. It is, perhaps,
for the better, for we are aU knocked up. By preserving
the body we preserve the mind. Our party consists of
four merchants, the rest being servants and slaves. My
friend Haj Ibrahim is the principal one. We have the
Medina Shereef, who is in charge of a male and two
female slaves, the property of the Governor of Ghat.
He continues his route from TripoU to Mecca, and
expects to be absent two years on his pilgrimage. The
Shereef makes great pretensions to learning and sanctity,
and I believe he is clever, if not learned ; he says to me,
" My business is study and prayer." He asked me about
Khanouhen, his father-in-law, and the presents which I
made the prince, and said, " Khanouhen sent back his
presents to you, and would not accept them." I told
him I commuted the goods into silver ; at which he
laughed and remarked, "Ah! Khanouhen is deeper than
the devil himself." He considers Jabour's protection
omnipotent in the route of Timbuctoo, but says the

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 257
Touaricks only, and not caravans, can protect European
travellers : I think the Shereef is right. Another of
our merchants is a very civil Ghadamsee, and acts as a
sort of broker for Haj Ibrahim. He is very civU and
good-natured, but, nevertheless, keeps mostly in his hand
a Uttle nasty whip, with which he lays it into the
unlucky slaves. The last of the four is a queer dwarfish
Touatee, from Am Salah, who is carrying a few little
bags of gold to Tripoli, perhaps a dozen ounces. At
the instigation of the Shereef, who likes a laugh, I keep
roasting him on the way, telling him, " You have got so
much gold about you that we are sure to be attacked
by banditti before we arrive safely at Tripoli." This
makes him very savage, and sometimes he calls me a
kafer. Haj Omer is the great factotum of Haj Ibrahim,
an Arab of Tripoli, and a most hardy hard-working
feUow. Omer has two camels which are hired by his
master. One of these foaled a little before we left Ghat,
and he carried- the young camel the half of a day's
journey on his back. Omer never rides, walks aU day
long, pitches the tents, looks after the camels, looks after
the slaves, and from morning to night is on his legs. So
these people can work when it is necessary ; indeed, I
am sure, with a good government, and an equitable
system of trade, the Moors and Arabs of North Africa
would be as industrious and persevering as any other
people. It is now afternoon, and very hot. The weather has
been sultry the four days of our route. But our faces
are nearly always north, and a slight fresh breeze blows
from either N., N.E., or N.W. every day, a most grateful
relief. It is, however, cold at nights, and very cold in
VOL. II. s

258 THE GREAT DESERT.
the morning after the heat has been absorbed during the
night. The negresses are busy either pounding ghusub,
or washing themselves, or making the toilet and arranging
their sable persons in showy trinkets. Certainly woman
in the negro races is a remarkable creature. She bears
her bondage and its hardships with consummate fortitude,
and the greatest good humour and gaiety, never quar
relling or sulking with her master, and only now and
then having a little bickering of jealousy or rivalry with
her feUow slave. Two or three slaves only, for the present,
are unable to keep up, and placed on the backs of camels.
I am astonished to see how well they keep up, what
fatigue they are capable of bearing; I should myself die
of exhaustion were I placed in their situation. There is
a little boy only four or five years of age, who walks as
well as any of them. He refused my offer to give him
a ride, and answered, " I don't wish to ride. I walked
aU the way from my native country to Ghat." Should
this little creature continue to walk his- way to Tripoli,
by the time he arrives in that city he wiU have walked
over eighty-five days of Desert, besides the distance he
may have walked before reaching Aheer, perhaps some
additional thirty days.
Another of Haj Ibrahim's camels foaled to-day. The
foal is stretched upon the ground as if lifeless, the mother
standing over and staring at it. But the foal wiU not
remain so long, for to-morrow or next day it wiU be up
on its legs, and after four, five, or six days, it will be
able to run after its dam. In fact, the foal, now
five days' old, runs after its mother part of the day's
march, and after two or three more days it will be able
to continue a whole day's journey. Here is an instance

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 259
of the immense superiority of the lower animal over the
higher animal man. It is curious that the cry of the
foal is very much like a chUd, and I once turned round
to see a negress child crying, and found it was a camel-
foal. In marching the foal is tied upon the back of its
mother, and so borne along, the dam grumbling regular
choruses to the cry of the foal. (Later an hour.) The
foal is actuaUy upon its legs, about four hours after its
birth, and it has sucked its mother twice. The mother
does not quarrel so much about her chUd as the first she-
camel. Such is the varying dispositions of brutes. A
foal is worth ten doUars when a year old. Most she-
camels have a foal every other year, but some few every
year. The foal remains a whole year with its mother.
None of these camels give milk, because there is not
sufficient herbage in our way. In cases of extremity,
when the herbage is scarce and the camels give little
mUk, the Touaricks of Ghat will drive their camels to
graze as far as Aheer, or even to Soudan. MUk is an
essential portion of their means of existence. The reader
must not be surprised to find so frequent a mention of
the Camel-Ship of The Desert. In the Koran the camel
is thus introduced, " Do not they consider the camels,
how they are created ?" (Surat Lxxxviii.) and very pro
perly, as a wonderful instance of the creative might of
Deity. These animals are of such use, or rather neces
sity, in The East and in The Desert, that the creation
of a species so wonderfully adapted to these countries,
is a very apposite and proper instance to an Arabian
and African, or even an European (traveUing here), of
the power and wisdom of the Creator. Like the rein
deer, and the lichen, or moss, on which it feeds in
s 2

260 THE GREAT DESERT.
the polar regions, the camel and the date-palms in the
Great Desert furnish striking and remarkable examples
of the inseparable connexion of certain animals and
plants with human society and the propagation of our
common species. Providence, or nature, for it is the
same, has so formed the faithful, patient and enduring
camel, as to create in this animal a link of social and
commercial intercourse amongst widely-scattered and
otherwise apparently unapproachable nations. The she-
camel which I am riding through these solitary wastes
never faUs me, except from sheer exhaustion, the en
during creature never giving in whilst nature sustains
her ! In the most arid, herbless, plantless, treeless,
thirsty wastes, she finds her loved-home, for The Desert
is the natural sphere of life and action for the camel.
The Desert was made for the Camel, and the Camel was
made for The Desert.
10^. — Did not sleep very weU, and felt very cold
during the night. But as soon as the sun is up it is
hot. Such is The Desert. It is also cold in the shade,
and hot in the sun. When riding, a hot wind burns the
one cheek, and a cold wind blanches the other cheek*.
You wander through these extremes like the spirits of
the nethermost regions, —
" And feel by turns the bitter change
Of fierce extremes, extremes by change more fierce :
From beds of raging fire, to starve in ice —
Thence hurried back to fire."
I usuaUy am obUged to wear my cloak out of the sun,
besides a wooUen burnouse.
* The blowing hot and cold with the same breath is here a
reality, or thereabouts.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 261
Visited the marabet, or mausoleum, of Sidi Bou Salah,
about two hundred paces from the large spring. My Fez-
zanee guide told me the daughter of the buried Marabout
was still living in the oasis, but his sons were residing in
Fezzan. When the corn was reaped, late in the spring,
he himself should return to Fezzan. One or two persons
would remain here. The tomb of the Marabout is en
closed within the usual square Uttle house, having a
dome or cupola roof, but it is not clean whitewashed, as
these sanctuaries generally are on the Coast. On the
tomb is a coverlet of particoloured and showy silks.
The room of the mausoleum is snug and clean. A little
lamp is kept burning at the head during the night.
This is a sort of perpetual fire. There are two or three
outhouses, or rooms, adjoining, in which, if anything be
deposited, it is quite safe, it is sacred, no robbers in
these wUd countries being bold enough to commit such a
sacrUege against the God of the Islamites. The entire
oasis is pecuUarly protected by the halo of the awful
Marabout here buried. It is a place of perfect security
for aU traveUers. In this way the sentiment of religion
confers its advantages, whatever may be the creed of its
professors. No doubt the sentiment of reUgion, as con
nected with superstition, inflicts upon mankind intoler
able evUs ; but here, at any rate, is some compensation.
I surveyed again the great thermal spring. The
water issues from a rocky ferruginous soil of iron ore,
giving the water a mineral taste. Yet it is of the best
quaUty. Apparently the water descends from the
neighbouring mountain chains, and coUects here, but its
flow or stream is perennial. From this little eminence
I had a panoramic view of the country, and was grate-

262 THE GREAT DESERT.
fully affected with the beautiful situation of the oasis.
In the hands of Europeans, a city would be created here,
one of the largest of The Great Desert, for water abounds
on every side. This oasis would become the centre of a
dense population, fed from the products of the soil. A
mart of commerce would concentrate a great Saharan
traffic, ramifying through every part of Africa. But
what can be expected from people whose one predomi
nant and quasi-religious idea teaches them that every
thing shoidd remain as it is ; as it was before so shaU it
be hereafter. People nevertheless pretend that political
causes keep the oasis in its present miserable condition.
Serdalas belongs to the Touaricks, who let it out to the
Fezzaneers, but wiU not permit them to plant date-palms,
lest the oasis should flourish and rival Ghat, and so
injure that mart of commerce. Be it as it may, man
always faUs of his work, and if he does so in the more
genial climes of Europe, what can come of his idleness
and his improvidence in The Vast African Desert ? De
solate as The Sahara may be in its essential character, it
is rendered stiU more so by the neglect of its heedless
and dreamy tenants. Many are the oases in this neg
lected, abandoned state. And the saddening, sickening
thought often recurs to me, that, however desolate The
Sahara may have been in past ages, it is now getting
worse instead of better. Ghadames, and many oases
of Fezzan, are dwindling away to nothing, the popu
lation lessening, and dispersing under the curse of the
Turkish system!
Fezzan is only reckoned five days from Serdalas, good
travelling, but, with a caravan of slaves, it will occupy
us six or seven days. How fond of lying are the Moors

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 263
or, shaU we say, boasting? The Shereef, I hear from
my other companions, is not going on a pilgrimage to
Mecca, as he boasted to me. He merely goes to Tripoli
on a trip to sell his three slaves for the Governor, his
uncle, and purchase a Uttle merchandise in return.
Had a visit from the daughter of the Marabout, the
wUd SybU of The Desert. She is an Arab lady of some
seventy or more years of age, but, like most ladies, does
not know how old she is. At first sight of her, I
" Gaz'd on her sun-burnt face with silent awe,
Her tatter'd mantle,
Her moving lips, —
" Whose dark eyes flash'd through locks
of blackest shade.'-
The Pythoness asked me how I liked her country,
a hundred times, and then begged for something in
the name of AUah. She kept saying, "What have
you got for the daughter of the great Marabout?"
"What have you got for her who dedicates her life
to God ?" She was very proud of the distinction, Bent-
El-Marabout ("daughter of the Marabout"). And
why should she not be proud? When all comes to
all, the Saharan lady is as good as a Roman Ne-
pote of the Pope. She continued, " What have you
got for the daughter of the great Marabout?" And,
indeed, I had got very little. I then gave her a Uttle
looking-glass, the only one I had. But this is no priva
tion in The Desert, however necessary elsewhere. The
looking-glass exceedingly delighted the sybU, for in it she
saw the stern features of her face, with her dauntless eye.
She then got famiUar. She wondered why I was not

264 THE GREAT DESERT.
married, and how I could go to sleep without a wife
She prayed me to take one from Fezzan, or buy a negress
of the caravan, telhng the people, "The Christian is
very good, but very foolish. The Christian has plenty
of money, and does not buy a wife." I told her it was
prohibited to buy slaves. And as to a wife, I could not
carry her about in The Desert. To which she at length,
after much persuasion, consented to agree. The daughter
of the Marabout showed no hostility against me as a
Christian, although of such pure blood, and in which the
antagonism of the eastern to the western spirit is sup
posed to be stronger. She gave me her blessing, and we
parted friends. The only piece of dress of any kind
which the Maraboutess wore was a thick, dark, woollen
frock, with short sleeves. She had no ornaments ; her
hair was black, mixed with grey, long, and dishevelled
about her neck and shoulders. An air of the Pythoness
overshadows the countenance and carriage of this Desert
priestess. Amongst the people she is a holy being.
She lives alone. She has the power of foreteUing future
events. She receives small presents from aU the ghafa-
lahs which visit the oasis, as tithes of the Marabout
shrine. She never leaves this Desert spot. Her person
was ever inviolable. It is related that, many years ago,
an Arab once attempted to surprise her in the night,
and share a part of her bed, but was immediately
struck dead before he could stretch out his hand to open
the door of her grass-built hut. So The Desert has its
incorruptible vestals. But the conversation which her
ladyship had with me was all pro-matrimonial, and would
not have suggested to the stranger that she was an
ancient maiden of inviolate chastity. Perhaps she mio-ht

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 265
have thought this sort of conversation would please me
best. The Maraboutess, as well as the few Fezzaneers
in Serdalas, are of short stature, of a very dark-brown
complexion, approaching nearly to black, and some have
the broad distended nostrUs of the negro. The Shereef
said to me this afternoon, " I'm going to pray at the
Marabout shrine ; I go happily, I return happily." Our
Shereef is a Uttle self-righteous.
Evening, died a young female slave. She had been
iU a month. She was of the most deUcate frame, and
cost seventy doUars as a great beauty. She was buried
in the grave-yard of the Marabet without any ceremonies.
Happy creature to have so died. They first tried to dig
a grave in open desert, but not succeeding, they carried
her to the burial-ground of the Marabet.
11th. — To-day is the fourteenth day of the month, and
Wednesday instead of Monday, by the reckoning of my
fellow traveUers. A fine morning, but we all felt severe
cold during the past night, and which nipped up the
poor slaves.
This morning visited Haj Ibrahim early, and seeing a
young female very UI I remarked : " You had better leave
her with the daughter of the Marabout." He repUed,
much agitated, " Oh, no, it's a she-devil." Thinking she
might be sulky, as Negroes often sulk, I made no other
observation. A few minutes after I heard the noise of
whipping, and turning round, to my great surprise, I saw
the Haj beating her not very mercifuUy. He had a
whip of bidl's hide with which he gave her several
lashes. This displeased me much, for I thought if the girl
had sulked a little she might have been cured without

266 THE GREAT DESERT.
recourse to the whip, in her debilitated state. About a
quarter of an hour afterwards, or not so much, I saw
Haj Omer, servant of the Haj, going towards the grave
yard, with a smaU ax in his hand, and suspecting some
thing had happened, I foUowed to see what it was. On
arriving at the Marabet, I asked,
" What are you going to do ?"
" Dig a grave, only," was the reply.
" What," I continued, " are you going to dig the
grave of the Negress whom Haj Ibrahim was just now
beating?" " Yes," Omer returned, greatly ashamed.
I was not surprised at the answer, but a disagreeable
chiU came over me. Omer then added apologetically,
"They bring these poor creatures by force, they steal them.
They give them nothing to eat but hasheesh (herbs). Her
stomach is swoUen. We couldn't cure her; Haj Ibrahim
beat her to cure her. She had diarrhoea." This requires
no comment. I add only, if Haj Ibrahim, who is a good
master, can treat his slaves thus, what may we not expect
from others less humane ? There is no doubt but that the
whipping of this poor creature hastened her death. She
was, indeed, whipped at the point of death. I stopped
to see the lacerated slave buried. She was some eleven
years of age, and of fraUest form. A grave was dug for
her about fifteen inches deep and ten wide. It is for
tunate there are no hyenas or chacaUs to scratch up
these bodies. They do " rest in peace." Into this nar
row crib of earth she was thrust down, resting on her
right side, with her head towards the south, and her face
towards the east, or towards Mecca. She had on a smaU

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 267
chemise, and her head and feet and loins were wrapped
round with a frock of tattered black Soudan cotton.
Omer, before he put her in, felt her breast to see if she
were really dead. At first he seemed to doubt it, and
fancied he felt her heart beating, but at last he made up
his mind that she was reaUy dead. I felt her hands.
They were deathly cold. At times Moors bury people
warm, and not unfrequently ahve. They are always in
a desperate hurry to get corpses under ground, thinking
the soul cannot have any peace whilst the body lies un
buried. As the last service to the body, Omer took some
earth and stopped up her nostrils. This was done to
prevent her reviving should she be not reaUy dead, and
attempt to move. Unquestionably if buried in the open
desert, it is a service, for the wretch only revives to die
a more horrible death. Some smaU flag-stones were
then laid over the narrow ceU, and these were covered
with earth, in the form of a common grave, being only a
little narrower than our graves, as the body is turned up
on its side. The two poor young things lay side by side,
the one who died yesterday, and the one to-day, giving
their Uberated spirits opportunity to return to the loved
land of freedom, the wUd woods of the Niger. Happy
beings were they ; — better to die so in The Desert, in the
morning of their bondage, than live to minister to the
corrupt appetites of the unfeeling sensualist! Seeing
others, free people, with pieces of stone raised up at
their heads, and wishing the slave and the free to have
equal rights in the grave, I fetched two pieces of stone
and placed them at their heads Ukewise. If it be per
mitted to pray for the dead, God save, in mercy, these
two youthfiU, frail, but almost sinless souls !

268 THE GREAT DESERT.
DIRGE*.
" O'er her toil-wither'd limbs sickly languors were shed,
And the dark mists of death on her eyelids were spread;
Before her last sufferings how glad did she bend,
For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.
" Against the hot breezes hard struggled her breast,
Slow, slow beat her heart, as she hastened to rest ;
No more shall sharp anguish her faint bosom rend,
For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.
" No more shall she sink in the deep scorching air,
No more shall keen hunger her weak body tear ;
No more on her limbs shall swift lashes descend,
For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend.
" Ye ruffians ! who tore her from all she held dear,
Who mock'd at her wailings and smil'd at her tear ;
Now, now she'll escape, every suffering shall end,
For the strong arm of death was the arm of a friend."
I returned to the encampment and found the caravan
in motion. Burning hot to-day. I felt the heat as
oppressive as in my journey of August to Ghadames.
Fortunately om- faces were north-east, away from the
sun in its greatest power. No one can understand this
passage, kcu r) cn^t? avrov d>s 6 tfXios <f>a,lvei iv Trj Suvdfiei
avrov, (Rev. i. 16,) who has not traveUed under the
influence of the Saharan sun. The rays dart down with
a peculiar fierceness upon your devoted head, depriving
you of aU your life-springs. As to its splendour, the
eye of the eagle turns away daunted from its aU-
effulgent beams. Since leaving Ghat we have passed
many graves of the " bond and the free," who have
died in open desert. Passed one to-day, with Arabic
* Adapted from an anonymous piece, called " The Dying
Negro''

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.

269

characters carved on the stone raised at its head.
Passed by also several desert mosques, which are simply
the outUne in small stones, of the ground-plan of
Mahometan temples.
We have, in many instances, only the floor of the
mosque marked out, or rather the waUs which inclose the
floor. Within the outlines the stones are nicely cleared
away. Here the devout passers-by occasionally stop and
pray. The desert mosques are some of them of these
shapes —

The places projecting in squares or recesses are the
kiblah, upon which the Faithful prostrate themselves
towards the east, or Mecca*.
Our course is through an undulating country of hUls
and valleys. We made a short day, for we began to
fear we might lose many of the slaves. A Touarghee
caravan, going to Fezzan, overtook us en route, but
soon turned off to the north-west.
* " But we will cause thee to turn towards a Kiblah that will
please thee. Turn, therefore, thy face towards the holy temple of
Mecca ; and wherever ye be, turn your faces towards that place." —
Sur at ii.

270

CHAPTER XXIV.
FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK.
Another Range of Black Mountains. — Habits of She-Camels when
having Foals. — Our Mahrys. — Intelligence of my Nagah. —
Geology of Route. — Arrive at the Boundaries of Ghat and
Fezzan. — The Moon-Stroke. — Sudden Tempest. — Theological
Controversy of The Shereef. — Wars and Razzias between the
Tibboos and Touaricks. — Forests of Tholh Trees. — The Shereef's
opinion of the Touaricks. — Dine with The Shereef. — Saharan
Travellers badly clothed and fed. — Style of making Bazeen. —
Mode of Encamping. — Cold Day, felt by all the Caravan. —
Well of Teenabunda. — Arrival in The Wady of Fezzan.—-
Meeting of the two Slave Caravans. — Tombs of Ancient Chris
tians. — Routes between Ghat and Fezzan. — Weariness of Saha
ran Travel. — Oases and Palms of The Wady. — We meet a rude
Sheikh, demanding Customs-Dues. — Haj Ibrahim's opinion of
the Virgin Mary. — Black Jews in Central Africa. — My Affray
with the Egyptian. — Route to Tripoli, vid Shaty and Mizdah. —
Features and Colour of Fezzaneers. — My Journey from The
Wady to Mourzuk, on leaving the Slave-Caravans. — Tombs of
former Inhabitants, and Legends about them. — Bleak and Black
Plateau. — The Targhee Scout. — Have a Bilious Attack. — Desert
Arcadians, and lone Shepherdesses. — Oasis of Agath, and its
want of Hospitality.
12^. — A long, long, weary day, and tormentingly
hot in the middle of the day. Course north-east, over
plains scattered with smaU stones. Traversed a few
smaU ridges of hUls. A new species of stone to-day,
the hard slate- coloured, and some of it with a granite
like look. Afternoon, came in sight of the other chain
of black, or, as sometimes designated, Soudan mountains,
stretching boundlessly north and south, like those near

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 271
Ghat. This chain Ukewise extends to the Tibboo
country. It is an error of some of the late French
writers, to make the Saharan ranges always run east and
west. This direction of development only appUes to the
Atlas ranges of the Coast. No trees, and no herbage
for the camels. The hasheesh which the camels ate this
evening was brought us from the encampment of yester
day. The poor slaves knocked up to-day ; rested many
times on the road, and another very ill. In all proba-
biUty she wUl foUow her companions lately dead. Others,
however, sang and danced, and tried to forget their
slavery and hardships. But the death of the two girls is
a damper for the rest, and they have not been so merry
since that mournful occurrence. The she-camels, which
have foals, give no mUk for want of herbage. The two
mothers bite one another's chUdren. This, perhaps, they
do to teach the young ones their true mothers. One of
them makes a great noise over her young one, and dis
turbs aU the caravan. Evening, whilst aU the people
were at prayers, and prostrating in their usual parallel
lines, I went up to her, and began teazing her. The
angry brute slowly and deliberately got up, but, once on
her legs, she made a dead set at me, running after me.
Meanwhile, receding backwards as fast as I could, I feU
over some of the people praying and prostrating, and
the camel attacked them as weU as me, spoUing their
devotions. The camel now returned to her foal; and,
prayers over, Haj Ibrahim said to me, laughing, "Yakob,
the camel knows you are a kafer, and don't pray with us.
So she attacks you. Camels never attack good Moslems
at their prayers." The foal of seven days' old walked
the whole of our long march to-day ! and nearly as fast

272 THE GREAT DESERT.
as a man. So the poor camel begins to learn by times
its lessons of patience and long-suffering. The mahry of
the Haj is very vicious and greedy, and bites aU the
other camels which eat with it. Camels are made to
eat in a circle, aU kneeling down, head to head, and eye
to eye. Within this circle of heads is thrown the fodder.
Each camel claims its place and portion, eating that
directly opposite to its head. The people eat in the
same manner in circles, each claiming the portion before
them, but squatting on their hams instead of kneeUng.
The mahry of the Haj is quite white, and is a very fine
animal; but its eye is smaU and- sleepy-looking, so that
it does not appear to have the amount of inteUigence of
the Coast camels. We have another smaller mahry, and
some of the mahrys are as diminutive as others are
gigantic in size. My nagah feeds by herself. The
males never bite the females as they bite one another, —
a piece of admirable gaUantry, so far, on their part, but
they rob the females of their fodder, and I am obliged
constantly to keep driving them away from my nagah.
The nagah knows she receives her dates from our pan
niers. Stooping down on one of them this evening to
find something, putting my head right in, and raising
myself up, I found the nagah's head right over my
shoulder, attentively watching me, to see if I was
bringing out her dates. She distinguishes me weU from
the Moors and Arabs, by my black cloak, and is usuaUy
very gentle and civil to me, and famUiar, more especiaUy
about the time of bringing out the dates.
13$.. — Our course north-east, over an undulating
plain of sand and gravel, and at intervals the desert
surface was a plain pavement of stone, of a dark slate-

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 273
colour. Greater part of the route strewn with pieces of
petrified wood, but no pretty fossil remains. Wood, ap
parently chumps of the tholh. We had all day the
new range of black mountains on our right, which extend
southwards far beyond the Fezzanee country to the
Tibboos. Intensely cold aU day, the air misty, and the
wind from north-west. But I prefer this cold to the heat
of yesterday. Haj Ibrahim complained of the cold, and
was alarmed for his slaves.. One of the females he
chased on his mahry, the girl running away on foot, and
gave her two or three cuts with the whip. She had
been accused of too great familiarity with a male slave.
Crime and slavery go hand in hand : Miserable
humanity !
About noon, we reached the territory of Fezzan. Good
bye, Touaricks ! farewell to the land of the brave and
the free! FareweU, ye Barbarians ! where prisons,
gibbets, murders, and assassinations are unheard of. We
now tread the soU of despotism, decapitations, slavery
and civUization, under the benign Ottoman rule, in con
junction with the Christianized Powers of Europe ! The
boundaries of Ghat and Fezzan are determined by two
conspicuous objects, first, by a chain of mountains running
north-east and south-west, joining the oases of Fezzan
on the north, and extending to the Tibboo towns on the
south, the eastern side of aU which chain is claimed by
the masters of Fezzan, the western by the Touaricks of
Ghat ; and secondly the forests of tholh trees, which are
now appearing in our north, affording abundant wood to
the people of the caravan, and browsing for the camels.
I am now, then, once more under the power of the
Porte, and within the region of Turkish civilization.
VOL. 11. T

274 THE GREAT DESERT.
Passed other desert mosques, with some Arabic characters
written in the sand, near the Keblah.
To-night the moon shone with a sun's splendour ; all
our people seemed startled at this prodigious effulgence
of Ught. Several of the slaves ran out amongst the
tholh trees, and began to dance and kick up their heels
as if possessed. It might remind them of the clear
moonlit banks and woods of Niger. Haj Ibrahim at
last got out his umbrella and put it up. " What's that
for ?" I asked. " The moon is corrupt (fesed), its light
wiU give me fever. You must put up your broken
umbrella." So said aU our people, and related many
stories of persons struck by the moon and dying instan
taneously *. This is another Ulustration of the passage,
" The sun shaU not smite thee by day, nor the moon by
night." (Ps. cxxi. 6.) In the Scriptures are several
aUusions to a stroke of the sun, (see Is. xLix. 10, Rev.
vii. 16,) but few to the moon-stroke. Saharan opinion
is that the moon-stroke is fatal. I am not aware that
the moon-stroke is weU authenticated by our eminent
physicians. The writer of the psalm spoke the current
language of his epoch of science. It is probable that
" moon-struck madness," and strokes of the moon, are
the effects of noisome or infectious vapours which crowd
about the night, and obscure with a stiU paler light that
pale luminary. The sun-stroke seems to be weU-authen-
ticated ; many cases of Europeans going hunting and
sporting in the open country of Barbary, then and there
* In the East Indies persons are known to become blind for the
night, (something like the night-blindness, which we have before
mentioned,) by the influence of the moon ; or such is what people
say.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 275
receiving a stroke of the sun, and dying with fever, are
on record.
lith. — Course as usual, north-east. Cold to-day.
Skirt the mountain-chain on our right, and traverse a
vast plain, scattered with pebbles and other small stones.
As yet, we have not passed over sands or through any
sandy region, although sand-ranges bounded the west in
the early part of the route ; here and there a little sand,
loose and flying about. Our road is a splendid carriage-
road. Oh, were there but water! But water is the all
and everything in The Desert. Encamped on the Umit-
less plain. How variable is Saharan weather : now, at
sunset, a tempest rises, and sweeps the bosom of The
Desert with " the besom of destruction !" A high wind
continued aU night. I fancied myself at sea, but pre
ferred the Ocean Desert, its groaning hurricane, its
hideous barrenness, to the heaving and roaring of the
Ocean of Waters. We passed another desert mosque ; it
was only a simple Une, slightly curved for the Keblah.
There were also some letters written on the earth, in
Arabic, passages from the Koran. Other writing on the
ground is always smoothed over, and not aUowed to
remain. Part of the road was covered with heaps of
stone, as if done to clear it, as well as to direct travellers
en route.
The Shereef introduced the subject of religion to-night
in conversation. He observed: —
" The torments of the damned are like aU the fires in
the world put together."
/. — " Are these torments eternal ?"
The Shereef. — " Yes, as everlasting as Paradise." T 2

276 THE GREAT DESERT.
/.— " But do you not continually say, ' God is The
Most Merciful.' How can this be ?"
The Shereef.—" I don't know, so it is decreed." The
Shereef boldly continued, "In this world* God has
given all the infidels plenty of good things, (this being a
sly allusion to the Christians and their possession of
great wealth) ; but, in the next world, the beUevers only
will enjoy good, and the kafer wUl be miserable." " You,
Yakob," he proceeded, " are near the truth, very near,
and near Paradise, because you can read and write
Arabic, and understand our holy books."
And so he went on preaching me a very orthodox
sermon. I asked him how God would dispose of those
who never read or heard of Mahomet or the Koran. He
couldn't teU. The same queries and objections are,
nevertheless, applicable to our own and to nearly aU
religions, which make the condition of believing one
thing, and one class of doctrines, absolute for salvation.
The Touatee gold-merchant, who was close by at the
time, interposed, " You are near jinnah (Paradise),
Yakob, one word only, ' There is no God but God, and
Mahomet is the prophet of God.' " I returned, " If this
be not uttered from the heart it is useless and mockery."
"By G — d! you are right, Yakob," exclaimed the
* In the Koran it is intimated that God fattens the wicked in
this world for the day of slaughter in the next. I forget the Surat.
The Arabic is — ^^. J^MX^ — signifying, " We (God) make them
proceed by degrees A that is to say, We, God, give the wicked plea
sures and enjoyments in this world, that we may punish them the
more in the next world. This is a most abominable sentiment, and
intolerable to a right-thinking mind. But I believe such a blas
phemous opinion has also been held by some mad-brained Christians.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 277
Shereef. Like most Mahometans, the Shereef says,
"The coming of Jesus is near, when he wiU destroy all
the enemies of God, Jews and Christians, and give the
world and its treasures into the hands of the Moslemites.
I asked him why he represented all mankind but the
Moslemites to be the enemies of God ? My mind always
recoils from the thought of arranging mankind, and mar-
shaUing them forward, so many enemies of God, as if the
Eternal and Almighty Being who planned, formed, and
sustains the universal frame of nature, could have ene
mies ! Man may be the enemy of his feUow man, but
cannot be the enemy of God. The Shereef here did
not know what to say, and I think repUed very properly,
Allah Errahman Err ahem, " God is most merciful !" a
sentiment which all of us admit in spite of our peculiar
dogmas of theology. But this conversation offers nothing
new or different from those which I had with my taleb
Ben Mousa, at Ghadames.
The Shereef then spoke about slavery, and asked me,
why the English forced the Bey of Tunis to abolish the
traffic in slaves. I explained the circumstances, adding,
the Bey was not forced, but only recommended, by the
English Government to abolish the slave traffic. He
then began a long story in palliation of the traffic, stating
that the slaves knew not God, and that in being enslaved
by the Mohammedans they were taught to know God.
I soon stopped his mouth, first, by teUing him, the Turks
not long ago had enslaved the Arabs and sold them for
slaves at Constantinople, and then, adding, " Nearly all
the princes, whence the Soudanese and Bornouese slaves
were brought, are professedly Mahometans, as well as
their people." He acknowledged, however, slaves were

278 THE GREAT DESERT.
mostly procured by banditti hunting them, not captured
in war. He finished, " The Touaricks of Ghat formerly
hunted for slaves in the Tibboo country, twice or thrice
in the year, and in these razzia expeditions some would
get a booty of three, or five, six, ten, and twenty,
according as they were fortunate. Now they have other
business on hand, the war with the Shanbah. The
Touaricks of Aheer, those who bring the senna, are now
the great slave-hunters." The Shereef showed me a
Tibboo youth seized by the Aheer people. The Shereef's
account of the Touarghee razzias in the Tibboo country
is confirmed by the reports of our Bornou expedition, or
rather the Shereef confirms the reports of our country
men. Dr. Oudney says, "It is along these hiUs (the
ranges which go as far as the Tibboo country) the Toua
ricks make their grassies (razzias) into the Tibboo country.
These two nations are almost always at war, and reci-
procaUy annoy each other by predatory warfare, stealing
camels, slaves, &c, killing only when resistance is made,
and never making prisoners." But, it must be observed,
Touaricks are never made slaves; they may be murdered
by the Tibboos. Not six months ago the Aheer Toua
ricks captured a Tibboo village. The few who escaped
fled to the Arabs, under the son of Abd-el-Geleel, im
ploring aid for the restoration of their countrymen and
property. These Arabs, who themselves mostly live on
freebooting, were glad of the opportunity for a razzia.
They recaptured everything, and restored the poor
Tibboos to their vUlage, making also a capture of a
thousand camels from these Kylouy Touaricks.
Enjoy better health in this journey, than on that from
Ghadames to Ghat. Felt myself stronger, and hope yet

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 279
to undertake the journey to Bornou before the summer
heats. 15th. — Course to-day nearly east. Encamped just
as the sun dipped down in the ruddy flame of the west.
Strong wind, blanching the sooty cheeks of the poor
slaves, who were borne down with exhaustion. They
were literaUy whipped along. And the Uttle feUow who
refused a ride from me, got a whipping for sitting on the
sand to rest himself. I now made him mount my
camel, which his master, not a bad-natured man, thanked
me for. AU day we continued to traverse the vast
plain, having on our right the same chain of hiUs, and,
on the left, the sand groups, as far as the eye could see.
These broad, now boundless plains, or valleys, are un
questionably the dry beds of former currents. Even
now our people called them wadys or rivers. The chain
of mountains and the chain of sand-hiUs are their natural
banks. The tholh-tree was most abundant to-day. I
never saw it so thickly scattered before. It was spread
over aU the plain, now in single trees, and now in forest
groups, which were also magnified in the distance, and
had a grateful and refreshing effect upon the vision,
wearied with looking on stones or gravel, or bare
desert, or black rocks and glaring sand-hills. Unques
tionably these trees of the African are as old as those of
the American wUderness. The tholh-trees of the dry
thirsty African plain are however but dwarfs compared
with the giant trees of the American forest, watered by
ocean rivers. The tholh would seem to live without
moisture : it is fed by no annual or periodic rain, no
springs. And yet it buds, opens its pretty yellow
flowers, sheds its fine large drops of translucent gum,

280 THE GREAT DESERT.
flourishes all the year round, and tempts with its prickly
leaves as with richest herbage, the hungry camel. In
deed, about this part of the route the camels get nothing
else to feed on. We have seen no living creatures these
last five days. On one part of our route our people
pretended to trace the sand-prints of the wadan, and
others affirmed them to be the foot-marks of the wild-
ox. I must except the sight of a few smaU birds, black
aU over but the tails. Some one or two had white
heads, as weU as white taUs. People say these birds
drink no water, as they say many animals of The Sahara
drink no water. The little creatures certainly do not
drink much water. Two or three dead camels thrown
across the route of this day's march. The live camels
usually turn off the way from them. Several Saharan
mosques, the form of a cross being made in the Keblah
one of them, as seen in the diagrams.
The Shereef's ideas of the Touaricks are not so
favourable as those of his uncle, the Governor of Ghat,
and in some respects they are more correct. The Shereef
says : — " The Touaricks are not of the Arabian race.
They are the original inhabitants of Africa (Numidians).
Their language is a Berber dialect. They are a race
generaUy of bandits, and, when their food faUs them,
Uke famished wolves, they make irruptions into their
neighbour's territory, and plunder what is before them.
This they do in small bodies, when camel's milk faUs
them at home. The Aheer Touaricks are of the same
race as those of Ghat. Many of those of Aheer have
no fear of God, and never pray like the rest of pro
fessed Mohammedans. Those of Ghat are perhaps the
best of the Touaricks, and the most religious. The

FROM G1TAT TO MOURZUK. 281
Touaricks of Touat encircle those of Ghat, lying across
the route of Timbuctoo. Their Sultan's name is Bassa,
a giant of The Desert. He eats as much as ten men.
He is the terror of all. But Jabour knows him, and
enjoys his friendship and confidence. The road from
Ghat to Timbuctoo, through Bassa's territory, is ex
tremely short. It is stony, through high mountains,
and intensely cold. Springs of water abound there."
Such are the ideas and opinions of the Shereef on the
Touaricks. The mountains of the route alluded to, are
the grand nupleus of the Hagar, which intersect and
ramify through all Central Sahara. The Shereef, and
some others traveUing with us, delight in paradoxes, and
maintain, in spite of Haj Ibrahim, who has been to
Constantinople and seen the Sultan of the Turks, that
there is no Sultan now, the administration at the Turkish
capital being in the hands of Christians.
The Shereef now invited me to dine with him from
bazeen, and when I sat down, kept addressing me : —
" Eat plenty !" But only think of three grown men
sitting down to a small paste dumpling, with a little
melted butter poured over it, and the host crying out
lustily to me : — " Eat plenty !" Such, indeed, was our
repast ! Of course, returning to my encampment, I ate
my supper as if nothing had happened to me. And this
little dumpUng supper is the only meal in the day which
our people eat. WeU may they cry out about the cold,
and pray for the heat. In a hot day a man is supposed
to eat half the quantity which he does in a cold day. I
am, therefore, stUl of the same opinion as before ex
pressed, that the sufferings of these people, who travel in
Sahara, are enormously increased from their want of

282 THE GREAT DESERT.
sufficient food and clothing. As to clothing, many of
them, in this trying season, go half-naked.
Some of our Arabs, who make bazeen for a large
party, have a scientific way for its cooking and pre
paration. On the Ghat route a young Arab was accus
tomed to fill up three parts of a large iron pot with water.
This water he would boil, throwing into it the mean
while peppers, sliced onions, and occasionaUy, as a lux
ury, very smaU pieces of dried meat, or scraps from
which fat had been strained. The pot having boiled
until the onions and peppers were soft, he now brings
the meal, mostly barley-meal, but sometimes coarse
wheaten flour. This he pours into the pot, forming a
sort of pyramid in the boiling water. He then gets a
stick, mostly a walking-stick, pretending first to scrape
off the dirt, or rubbing it in the sand ; with the stick so
polished, he makes a hole in the centre of the pyramid
of meal, through which the water bubbles up and cir
culates through the mealy mass, now fast cooking. He
now gets two small pieces of stick, and puts them into
the ears of the iron pot, which generally are burning hot.
He removes with the pieces of stick the pot from off the
fire, and places it on the sand. He now squats down
over it, putting his two feet, or rather the great toes of
the feet, one on each ear of the pot, which gives him a
poise, or sort of fulcrum. And then, again, taking the
long stick, he stirs it up with all his might, round and
round and round again, until aU the water is absorbed in
the pudding-like meal, and the meal is thus weU mixed
into a sort of dough. However this dough is not un
baked paste, but a bond-fide dumpUng, cooked and
ready for the sauce. Now comes the wash wherewith

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 283
to wash it down. My young Arab friend takes the
dumpUng, or pudding, in a great round mass, and
places it within a huge wooden bowl. He then goes
off for the oU, or liquid butter, which is usuaUy kept
in a large leather bottle, or goat's-skin, with a long
neck. He does not pour the oil out, but thrusts one of
his hands into the oil, and, taking it out, with his other
hand rubs or squeezes off the oil over the mass of dump
Ung. When he has got enough, he sets to and sucks his
fingers, as the great reward of all his labour in preparing
the supper of bazeen for his companions. Once he did
not sufficiently squeeze off the oU from his hands, and
his uncle scolded him for leaving so much on to suck.
He protested to his uncle that the bazeen had taken him
an unusuaUy long time to prepare*. The supper is now
ready. The party squat round it on their hams. They
dig into the mass with their fingers, after saying aloud,
as grace, Bismittah, " In the name of God," before they
begin supper. Digging thus into it, they make small
or large balls, according to the measure of their jaws,
which are generaUy sufficiently wide, or according to the
sharpness or dulness of their appetite. These balls they
roll and roU over in the oil or sauce that is often
made of a herb caUed hada, or aseedah, a pleasant
bitter, and producing a yeUow decoction, (whence the
bazeen is sometimes caUed,) which enables the large
* In the event of my publisher bringing out a new edition of
the venerable Mrs. Glass, or Mrs. Rundall, I fervently hope he will
Dot fail to avail himself of this receipt for the making of bazeen.
I am also of the opinion of the former ancient dame, with regard to
the necessity of catching a hare before it is dressed; and I think the
meal likewise must be procured before it is made into bazeen. To
be eaten with relish, it besides must be eaten in The Desert.

284 THE GREAT DESERT.
boluses to slip quietly and gratefuUy down the throat.
Meanwhile a jug of water is handed round, provided
always there is any difficulty in getting down the baUs;
but mostly the water is handed round after the eating.
It is drunk with a bismallah, and then a hamdullah, or
" praise to God," the grace after meat, winds up and
finishes the repast.
The business of the caravan and its affairs of encamp
ment are always terminated before supper. So the
dumpling or pudding-fed' travellers now roll themselves
up in their barracans, covering their faces entirely, and
stretch themselves down on the ground to sleep, fre
quently not moving from the place where they ate their
supper. There is generally a mat or skin under them,
and they lie down under the shade of the bales of goods
which their camels carry. The first thing on encamping
is to look for the direction of the wind, and so to arrange
bales of goods, panniers, and camel-gear, as to protect
the head from the wind. In this way one often lies
very snug whilst the tempest howls through The Desert.
People like to retain the taste of the pudding in their
mouths, particularly if a little fat or oil be poured over
it. I once gave an Arab some coffee after his pudding-
supper, which he drank with avidity, but afterwards be
gan to abuse me. " Yakob, what is your coffee ? I'm
hungry, I'm ravenous. Why, before I drank your cof
fee, my supper was up to the top of my throat, but now
I want to begin my supper again. I'll never drink any
more of your coffee, so don't bring it here." A little
more cuscasou is eaten on this route than on that of
Ghat from Ghadames, the Fezzaneers and Tripolines
preferring coarse cuscasou to bazeen if they can get it.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 285
The poor Arabs are often obliged to put up with zumee-
tah, which they eat cold. Haj Ibrahim eats his fine
cuscasou, which he brought from Tripoli, but I do not
consider him a bond-fide Saharan merchant. This is his
first trip in The Desert.
6th. — Rose as the day broke, with a hazy yeUow tint
over half the heavens, and started early in order to reach
the well before night. Very cold, and continued so all
day long. Felt my nerves braced, and liked cold better
than heat. In proportion as I liked the cold, all my
travelling companions disliked this weather ; aU were
shivering and crumpled up creatures. The slaves suffered
dreadfuUy, having shivering-fits and their eyes stream
ing with water. However, I could not help laughing at
the Shereef and the Touatee, who kept crying out, as if
in pain, " Mou zain el-berd (Not good is the cold!)"
And, to make it worse, they both rode all day, by which
they felt the cold more. On the contrary, I walked
full three hours, and scarcely felt myself fatigued. In
deed, to-day, I was decidedly the best man of the cara
van, and suffered less than any. I always walk an hour
and a half every morning. But my Ghadames shoes,
that I'm anxious to preserve, are fast wearing out, which
spoils some of the pleasure. The smaU stones of Desert
soon cut and wear out a pair of soles, which are made of
untanned camel's skin. Observed to the Shereef, to tease
him, " Why, you Mussulmans don't know what is good.
Your legs and feet are bare. You have nothing wrapt
tight round your chest. Your woollens are pervious to
the cold air. You're half naked; but for myself, I'm
clothed from head to foot, only a small portion of my
face is exposed. You must go to the Christians to learn

286 THE GREAT DESERT.
how to travel The Desert." " The Christians are devils,"
he returned, " and can bear cold and heat like the Father
of the imps in his house (perdition)." "Mou zain, el-
berd," cried the Touatee. Yesterday and this morning
the slaves were oiled all over with olive-oil, to prevent
their skin and flesh from cracking with the cold. This
is a frequent practice, and reckoned a sovereign remedy.
Hot oil is also often swallowed. Boiling oU is a favour
ite remedy in North Africa for many diseases. The
poor slaves were again driven on by the whip. We
reached the well just after sunset. Haj Ibrahim rode far
in advance on his maharee to see that the well was aU
right, our water being exhausted. Happily the weather
prevented any great absorption of its water. When the
slaves got up, having suffered much to-day from thirst'
although so cold, they rushed upon the water to drink,
kneeling on the sands, and five or six putting their
heads in a bowl of water together. I myself had only
drunk two cups of tea this morning, Said having given
the slaves all the water we had left. To-day's march
convinced me that thirst may be felt as painfuUy on a
cold day as on a hot day.
Course, north-east, inclining to east. Met with some
Fezzanee Touaricks, who were a very different class of
people from those of Ghat and Aheer. They are simple
shepherds, tending their flocks, mostly goats, in open
Desert, which browse the scanty herbage of the plain.
The mountain chain on our right continues north with
us. We found in our route the blood and filth of a camel
just kiUed. Dead or killed camels are generally found
near the wells on the last day's journey, after having
made five or six days' forced marches to reach them It

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 287
is here they're knocked up, going continually and most
patiently to the last moment of their strength, when they
expire at once.
Teenabunda or " Well of Bunda," is a well of sweet
delicious water. It is some thirty or forty feet deep.
There is nothing to mark the site of the well from the
surrounding plain, nor palm tree, nor shrub, nor herbage
of any kind. An accident alone could have discovered
this weU. Some stones are placed about in the form of
seats, and one can easUy see where there has once been
a fire from the sign or circumstance of three stones
being placed triangularly, leaving a small space between
them for the fire. These three stones also support the
pot for cooking, as weU as inclose the fire. This evening
took some bazeen with the Ghadamsee merchants. They
are fond of showing me this little mark of hospitality.
However the same thing was enacted as at the Shereef's
supper. Three grown-up persons sat down to the one
day's meal, a smallish dumpling, seasoned with highly
peppered sauce of hada, and a little fat. It is quite
absurd to caU this a supper for three persons; it is
mocking European appetite. How they live in this way
I cannot comprehend.
17 th. — Rose early, but did not start until the sun had
two hours mounted the horizon. We usually start half
an hour after sunrise. Weather fair and fine, a cool
breeze and hot sun, which is suitable for the middle of
the day. I do not feel it at all oppressive. Continued
north-east. We now caught a glimpse of the palms of
The Wady. But here we overtook our TripoUne friends,
who had left Ghat ten days before us and were waiting
for our arrival. They conducted us to their encamp-

288 THE GREAT DESERT.
ment. The party consisted of Mustapha, an Alexandrian
merchant of Tripoli, and another merchant, having with
them some sixty slaves. When our slaves arrived these
ran out to meet them, welcoming them in a most affec
tionate manner as old friends. In fact, most of them
had been companions in the route from Aheer to Ghat,
sharing one another's burthens and sufferings, helping to
alleviate their mutual pains. After being separated and
sold to different masters, never expecting to see one
another again, it is not surprising there should have
been such a tender and affectionate meeting of the poor
things. I shall not soon forget the sight of two little
girls who unexpectedly met after being sold to different
masters and separated some weeks. The Uttle creatures
seized hold of one another's hands, then each took the
the head of each other with the palms of the hand,
pressing its side, in the meanwhile kissing one another
passionately and sobbing aloud. And yet those brutal
republicans of America,
" Whose fustian flag of freedom, waves
In mockery o'er a land of slaves — "
have the devilish cruelty to continue to stigmatize, by
their laws of equality and liberty, the Africans as goods
and chattels, depriving them of their divine right of
sentient and inteUectual beings, having all the tenderest
and holiest affections of humanity. These poor little girls
were quite unobserved by their masters or drivers, who
were now occupied with the rakas or courier, who had
brought letters from Tripoli in answer to ours sent some
time ago. The news is good for the merchants; the
Pasha will not exact the customs-dues of Fezzan on those

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 289
who return this route, on account of the war between the
Shanbah and Touaricks.
Near the weU Haj Omer beckoned me to show me
what he caUed, " water-courses of Christians," ancient
irrigating ducts of the people of former times. These
consisted of raised banks of earth, stretching across the
road to the mountains on the right. Along these lines of
embankment were large fields of cultivation, showing
the country had decUned in its agricultural industry,
which, indeed, is manifest from every oasis I have yet
seen in The Sahara. It is probable these earlier or an
cient cultivators of the soU were colonies from the
coast. Omer also pointed out at a distance, what he
styled " The tombs of Christians," on the sides of the
mountains, scattered miles along, showing The Desert to
have been cultivated to a far greater extent in past
times. Our route from Ghat to Fezzan is good enough per
haps for man, being simple and plain, easUy traversed,
generaUy on level surfaces, but it is very bad for animals,
there being scarcely any herbage, except at Serdalas, and
the Ghat Wadys. Our camels had little herbage for
seven days, which greatly tried their strength and
endurance. The caravan we now joined had lost two
camels, and I was afraid for my nagah. Water they had
none for six days. The Soudan sheep also went without
water these six long days. Our route is thus men
tioned by Dr. Oudney : " There are several routes to
Ghat (from Mourzuk) ; and the upper one, where we had
to enter the hiUs, was last night fixed for us. There is
plenty of water, but more rough than the lower, which
is said to be a sandy plain, as level as the hand, but no
VOL. n. u

290 THE GREAT DESERT.
water for five days." TraveUing with slaves, a route is
always extended one-fifth, at the very least : such was
our case.
Afternoon, we encamped at the mouth of the wady,
weary, thirsty, and exhausted, which forcibly brought to
my mind that oasis of rest, (wearied and disgusted as
I felt with Saharan travel,) so divinely described in
Desert pastoral Style : ovBe fiv Treat) e7r' avrovs 6 rfkios,
ovBe irav icav/ia .... icai oSrjyrjaei avrovs eirt, £a>cras
iTTj^as vSarwv. (Rev. vii. 16, 17.) We have in these
divine words the smiting and parching of Saharan sun
and heat, and the Lamb-Shepherd leading the droop
ing flocks to the living life-giving springs of the oases of
Desert. Our people called the series of little oases, which we
now entered, El- Wady. But this term is hardly suffi
ciently distinctive, and, I think in the general division of
Fezzan, it is called El-Wady Ghurby — tsyil! <s*\y\\ — or
" The Western VaUey," in contra-distinction from El-
Wady Esh-Sherky, " The Eastern VaUey."
18th. — Entered fuUy into The Wady this morning.
After so much Desert, was deUghted to ecstasy with the
refreshing sight of the distant forests of palms, crowd
upon crowd in deepening foliage, their graceful heads
covering the face of the pale red horizon, as with hang
ing raven locks of some beautiful woman. Saw a few
huts of date branches, some weUs, and here and there a
viUager. The huts were so blended with the date-palms,
in colour and make, that it was with difficulty our eye
could catch sight of them. I am often astonished how these
slight, feeble tenements can protect the people from the
sun and cold and wind. It is like Uving in open Desert.

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 291
When we had continued our course some two hours, the
Sheikh of the district came running out after us, demand
ing the customs-dues, and attempting to stop the slaves
for payment. " What does this fellow want ?" I said to
our people, feeUng myself now under the protection of
the TripoUne government, and knowing the Sheikh to be
subjected to the Bey of Mourzuk. They replied, " Oh,
he wants some slaves to work at the water (by irriga
tion)." The Sheikh would not be said "nay." He
demanded to see the teskera of the Pasha exempting us
from the duties, which he could not, as Haj Ibrahim was
gone to purchase dates. He then commenced seizing the
slaves, but our Arabs now attacked him, pushing and
dragging him away. These people are mighty fond of a
little scuffling. We encamped for the night in The
Wady. More " Tombs of Christians" were pointed
out to me. Many dwarf palms were scattered about,
wUd and producing no fruit. Water may be under the
surface. Our people say these palms would all bear
fruit if cultivated and watered. Undoubtedly many
more could be cultivated. There are innumerable palms
in this wild dwarf state. My nagah growled and grum
bled on seeing the palms, rightly concluding that we were
arrived in an inhabited country. These melancholy-
looking creatures are extremely wise. The other evening
we had great trouble to get the nagah to eat herbage
when she was brought to the encampment. She had
for her supper every evening a few dates and barley
for several successive days. Now we left off giving her
them on arriving at The Wady, where there was abundant
herbage. This she resented, and grumbled nearly all
night, keeping us from sleeping, and would not cat the
u 2

292 THE GREAT DESERT.
herbage. On encamping, the camels are aUowed to stray
and graze an hour or two, and are then brought up to
the encampment for the night, the drivers cutting a Uttle
herbage for them to eat during the night, or in the
morning before starting. Like us, more inteUigent brutes,
the camels don't Uke starting on a journey with an empty
stomach. Haj Ibrahim expressed surprise that I had with me
religious books. He thought the EngUsh had "no
books," (that is, religious books.) Some Christians in
TripoU (Roman Catholics) had told him the English
people had no books. He then observed to me, that it
was wrong to worship Mary, who was not God, or the
mother of God, for God had no mother or father. And
although the French and Maltese, in Tripoli, had told
him the English had a bad religion, it could not, he
observed, be a worse religion than this, that of worship
ing a woman instead of God. Of Mary, he continued,
" She was a good woman, and conceived without a
husband. Mary merely wished to bear a child, and as
it was a pious wish, God granted her request, and by a
simple word she conceived and bore Jesus." Of slaves,
the merchant says : — " They are brought from aU
countries of Soudan, nearly a thousand countries. Only
a few slaves captured or brought to the Souk are Mus
sulmans, they're nearly aU Pagans. Mussulmans make
war against infidels to get prisoners, as we and you did
formerly; the Maltese* and English made us slaves, and
we made you slaves. Some of the slaves are Christians,
* The oath taken by the Knights of the Order of Malta Trae
" To kill, or make the Mohammedans prisoners, for ihe glory of
God."

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 293
(i. e. Pagans,) and some are Jews." I was much in
terested, and questioned the merchant about this latter
remark, when a Negro slave, who had been lately to
Soudan with his master, observed, " The black Jews keep
the Sabbath, and get drunk on that day. They drink
bouza (or grain liquor). They also circumcise as we
Mohammedans." It is probable these Negro Jews are
the corrupt descendants of the converts of Abyssinian
Jews, who ages ago penetrated Central Africa vid the
provinces of Darfour and Kordofan, and the countries
lying on the two great branches of the sources of the
NUe. In the beginning of our era, we hear of the
Eunuch of the " Queen of the South*," or of Abyssinia,
who was a Jew, and converted by Philip to Christianity.
There is therefore no manner of difficulty in accounting
for the presence of these corrupt degenerate black Jews,
amongst the tribes of Central Africa.
Two little girl-slaves were barbarously whipped this
evening for eating hasheesh (herbage), which they picked
up on the roadside. This was done to prevent them
having diarrhoea, and eating poisonous herbs. It was
nevertheless what they had been taught to do on the
Aheer route, and there could not be very much harm in
picking up a little fresh juicy herbage, to appease their
thirst during the heat of the day's march. The slaves en
route are only permitted to drink twice in the day,
once at noon, and once in the evening. When our sup
ply of water is scanty, only once a day.
* " And behold a man of Ethiopia, an eunuch of great authority
under Candace, Queen of the Ethiopians, who had the charge of
all her treasure, and had come to Jerusalem for worship." — (Acts
viii. 27.)

294 THE GREAT DESERT.
19th. — This morning made but three hours' journey
through The Wady Oases. We had not proceeded an
hour en route, when the same farce was attempted to be
played upon us as yesterday; three or four people
coming galloping up to us to stop us, in order to collect
the customs-dues. This they did a second time, after
letting us go on once. I was determined now to show I
was not a slave-dealer, and would not be stopped to suit
their caprice, for we told them we had a teskera from the
Pasha, exempting us from the gomerick. Proceeding
forwards with Said, one of the party, a fellow on horse
back, stopped my nagah, seized her, and commenced
beating Said. I instantly jumped off, exclaiming, " I'm
an Englishman — a Christian, and not a slave-dealer ; I
have nothing on which to pay duties, and wUl not be
stopped." Our people bawled out likewise, "The
Christian has nothing for the gomerick, he has no
slaves." The fellow gave Said another rap with his
sword on his attempting to rescue our camel. Here
upon, losing all patience, I took the spear, and with the
flat part of its head gave the fellow a tolerable blow on
the shoulders. Now followed a desperate scuffle, the
first I had had in The Desert. The fellow screaming
out, suddenly maddened to fury, drew his sword, and
made a thrust at me, but the blow was turned by the
shaft of my lance. Our people now seized hold of him
and me. A little more scuffling went on, and getting
clear of the grasp of our people, I made off in advance,
with Said, alone. After continuing half an hour through
the palm-woods, we turned and saw the whole caravan
coming up quickly after us. The party who stopped us
had consented to let the caravan follow me. Haj

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 295
Ibrahim, who had the Pasha's teskera, was again absent,
having gone to purchase more dates. If the feUow had
not been very impudent and violent, inflicting blows on
Said, I should not have committed this folly of forcing
my way, for, after aU, it was great imprudence on my
part, and might have been attended with very serious
consequences. When the caravan came up, I said, in hearing of our
people, to the feUow who was still following them, " If
you had struck my servant in Tripoli, the Pasha would
have put you in prison. This is not Touarghee country,
but a country where there is a government. This country
belongs to Tripoli and the Sultan. Your violence was
equally improper and unnecessary." AU applauded this,
and our champion of the sword said nothing in reply.
After arriving at the smaU district of Blad Mara-
bouteen, or " a country of Marabouts," we encamped for
the day. The feUow, who turned out to be an Egyptian,
a petty officer of the Porte, and Kaed of the district
through which we passed, now came to me, sat down by
my side, and made it up. I then observed to him, "It's
aU nonsense." The Egyptian laughed and I laughed.
He kept seizing me by the hand, and exclaiming with
vehemence, "GagUuffi! Gagliuffi! ah! that's a fine feUow!
Gagliuffi at Mourzuk." Again the Egyptian laughed, and
screamed with frantic gesticulations, and our people
coming up were also merry with him. " Ah !" he con
tinued, " Gagliuffi, a real cock of the dunghiU, a noble
feUow, Gagliuffi! Do you know Gagliuffi?" I said I
did not. This he couldn't understand, and said, " Ah,
Gagliuffi has got plenty of money, he's the Bashaw of
Mourzuk. Every time you go to see him he gives you

296 THE GREAT DESERT.
coffee." Another Fezzaneer, standing by, swore to this :
" GagUuffi is the Bey! Gagliuffi has got plenty of money."
Afterwards I reported this affair to Mr. Gagliuffi, our
Vice-Consul at Mourzuk. He was greatly amused and
flattered at the report of his wealth and consequence.
He observed, " Although I'm poor enough, God knows,
it's better that these people should think me rich." The
Egyptian was commanding a smaU force of Arabs in
The Wady. I learnt from him, the Vice-Consul had
been sick lately, but was now better. In The Wady
there is fever during summer, but not much now. The
Kaed, I saw in conversing with him, had been drinking
leghma, and was " elevated," which sufficiently accounted
for his interrupting our march, and the violence of his
conduct, Our people say, he wished us to encamp in
his district, to amuse himself with us. They continued
aU the evening to praise my spirit for resisting the fel
low's impertinence in his stopping us. " To-day you
were a man, Yakob," they kept repeating. I explained,
" Fear, where fear is necessary, as in the Touarghee dis
tricts. There we must bow the head, for resistance
would be dangerous. But here, in the country of the
Sultan, why should we fear?" This speech greatly
pleased our people, who themselves had not been detained
by the Kaed, on account of my forcing the way. Upon
the whole, this ludicrous affray raised my reputation for
(physical) courage amongst the people. For moral
courage I always take credit to myself. It is neverthe
less, a very deUcate thing in Saharan travel to know
when and where resistance is to be offered against im
position : and perhaps, it is better to give way always
than to resist, leaving the matters of dispute (of this

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 297
sort especially) to be settled by the caravan with which
you travel.
The united caravans wiU remain here some eight or
ten days, to give rest to the slaves, as well as to obtain
fresh provisions. To-morrow morning I go early to
Mourzuk, which is two days from The Wady. Tripoli is
distant from The Wady, fifteen, seventeen, or twenty
days, according to the progress of the caravan. The
route lies direct vid Shaty, four days' distant from this,
and Mizdah, in the mountains (Gharian), ten or twelve
days, and thence three days more to Tripoli. The route
from El-Wady to Shaty consists of groups of sand-hills,
of painful traverse. Shaty itself is a series of oases.
Between El-Hasee and El-Ghareeah, which now foUow,
there is an immeasurable expanse of Desert plain. The
Atlas Mountains then succeed with their bubbling foun
tains and green vaUeys, and olive-clad peaks. Mizdah
in The Mountains consists of two large vUlages.
Saw several of the inhabitants of The Wady, and
made acquaintance with the Fezzaneers, as they have
been caUed. Some of them are as black as negroes,
others as white as the Moors of the coast, others olive,
yeUow, brown, &c, and their features are various as the
colour of their complexions. The Fezzaneers must be
considered Moors and townspeople, rather than Arabs
or nomades. Houses in The Wady are of palm-branches,
and some of sun-dried mud-bricks, but mostly miserable
hovels, the very picture of wretchedness. We passed a
vUlage entirely abandoned, (Kelah, as the people said,)
apparently from the faUure of water. Palms in The
Wady are not very fine. There are many patches of

298 THE GREAT DESERT.
cultivation of grain and vegetables. Water is found
near the surface, and the wells are numerous.
20th. — I left our caravan early this morning for
Mourzuk. On taking leave of my companions of travel
they begged me to come back, and continue the route
with them to Tripoli. Could only promise in the style
of En-ShaUah, " If God wills," for I had long made up
my time not to return. Should the Bornou route be
favourable, I might go up before the hot weather came
on; if not, I intend returning vid Sockna to Tripoli,
" the royal road," wishing to see as much as possible of
the inhabitants of the oases of The Sahara, on which
route were many centres of population. My companions,,
from whom I had received nothing but kindness, con
tinued to caU after me, " Come back, Yakob," untU our
little company was out of sight. I thought this ex
tremely friendly, and another instance of the unadulte
rated kindness of heart found in Saharan traders. Our
course now lay somewhat back again, we proceeding
south-east. We had to cut through the mountains which
had been so long on our right. The range still con
tinued north up The Wady, but how far I cannot tell.
I believe no European whatever has travelled the route
vid Shaty and Mizdah, to Tripoli. As we ascended
through the gorge or break in the chain, " the tombs of
the Christians" were again pointed out to me, or rather the
burying-places of the earher inhabitants of these regions.
All the early inhabitants, or those before the Moham
medan conquest of Africa, are vulgarly caUed Ensara by
Moors. These tombs consist simply of circular heaps of
stones, picked up from the rocks around. Some are

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 299
large, perhaps a dozen yards in circumference. Mount
ing one, I found it hollow at the top; the stones had
been merely heaped up in a circular ring. Within was
a little sand settled, collected from the wind when it
scatters the sand about. There was no appearance of
bones, or any inscriptions. The whole mountain range
of The Wady, I am told, has heaps of stones pUed up in
this way. There is no doubt but what they are the
graves of former inhabitants.
The question to be solved is, why are these graves
of this circular form? why heaps or rings of stones thus
heaped up, so different from the long square graves now
met with in all North Africa and The Desert? The
form of these tumuli evidently denote another people,
or at least a people of another religion. Where there
are tombs there are legends of the dead. My travelling
companions now related to me, that there appears not
unfrequently, and mostly at midnight, when the moon
has but a narrow dim circlet, a solitary Christian, who
flits mournfully through these solitudes, now and then
sitting on the circular tombs, now peeping from within
the rings of stones, his chin resting on the edge. His
aspect is hideous, and he has one big burning eye-baU in
the middle of his forehead. His skin (for he is naked) is
covered with long hair, like a shaggy goat (a species of
satyr), and two tusks come out of his mouth, like those
of a wild boar. A holy Marabout once met him, and
interrogated him courageously about his doleful doings
amongst these graves. The spectre deigned this answer,
"I mourn the faU of my fellow-Christians and the
triumph of the Faithful over the Infidels. The Devil
makes me come here. I shall wander until the appear-

300 THE GREAT DESERT.
ance of Gog and Magog upon the earth, and then shaU
be yoked to their chariot, and go out and conquer the
world, and kill the Faithful. But I shall be tormented
afterwards. Such is my doom : I can't help it." It is
said the Marabout pitied him, and prayed to God for
him, but it was revealed to the holy man in a dream,
not to pray for lost spirits, whom Heaven's decrees had
irrevocably doomed to perdition.
There was also another legend related to me by the
Fezzan Targhee, who was now my guide through this
dreary gorge, full of the tombs of the dead. It is too
long to repeat. Suffice it to say that, whilst his great
grandfather and other shepherds were tending their
flocks on the subjected plains below, a troop of these
Christians broke lose from the dark caverns in the moun
tains, where they are chained, and began to abuse and
banter the shepherds, because they did not say, " There
are three Gods." The shepherds withstood the temp
tation and the terror of their countenances, although
they, the shepherds, exceedingly quaked. The Christians,
in their rage against the shepherds professing so con
stantly the Unity of God, dispersed their flocks, drove
them into the caverns, and disappeared together with
the flocks. But the angel Gabriel descended from
heaven, and blessed the faithful shepherds, led them on
many mUes to a desert place, where there were three
tholh-trees which had been planted by these reprobate
Spirits in adoration to The Three Gods. Now the
number of shepherds also happened to be three. The
good Gabriel told them to cut down the trees, and burn
them separately. The shepherds did so, and for their
obedience, from beneath the ashes a great cake of molten

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 301
gold came pouring out. " These cakes are the Gods of
the Christians; there are three of these cakes," said
Gabriel. " Take each one, and go, and trade to Soudan,"
added the angelical messenger; and then in a bright
cloud ascended over the top of the mountains. It so
happened that his great-grandfather thought three was
a lucky number, and wished to become a Christian,
whereupon God caused a troop of banditti to faU upon
his caravan, who plundered him of everything, and
reduced him again to beggary. Such are the tales of
Marabouts of The Sahara, quite a match for the legends
of our Monks of the good and happy olden times.
As these legends finished, we got up to the top of the
range, when a cold bleak wind cut our faces, coming
north-east over the plateau, which to my surprise now
appeared. I expected to find a descent, or another
rounded side of the chain. But aU east was a bare,
bleak, black plateau, as hideous as desolation could
render it, according weU with the scenery of the desolate
grave-stones we had just seen, and the woeful tales
about them we had heard. It was the veritable beach
of the river Styx. I turned with a chill of horror from
the waste back again upon the vaUey which we had
left. How different the view! Here we beheld the ten
thousand fair waving palms, which cover the green bosom
of The Wady, — a paradise encircled with ridges and
outlines of the most frightful sterility. We now
mounted our camels, for it was necessary to face also
this new desert. I greatly perspired with the labour of
the ascent, and now caught a cold, and had a bUious
attack, the only time I was seriously unwell during my
nine months in The Desert, and strange enough that it

302 THE GREAT DESERT.
should be occasioned by cold. Our party consisted of
myself and Said, the Targhee guide, and Mustapha, the
TripoUne Moor, who was going to purchase provisions,
and borrow money at Mourzuk. These merchants so ill
manage their affairs, that they were nearly out of
provisions for their some hundred and odd slaves,
themselves and servants, and besides had no money to
replenish their stock. Our course was now east verging
to the south. On the plain I saw the last of the
Touaricks, and it was a noble sight. This was a Targhee
Scout, scouring The Desert in search of the Shanbah,
well-equipped and mounted on his maharee. He was
returning south-west to Ghat, taking the route over the
mountains which we had just ascended.

After a few hours we again descended into a small
shallow wady, where was a little herbage. We conti
nued aU day, and endeavoured to reach a part of the
plateau, where were some Fezzan Touaricks tending their

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 303
flocks, and where it was said we should get milk and a
kid of the goat to kUl and eat. The whole of the day it
was cold, and the wind piercing, which I attributed to
the elevated region we traversed. On arriving at a thin
scattered forest of tholh-trees we stopped, but being
most unusually exhausted by the fatigue of the ride,
and the attack of the bile, I could not dismount from my
camel, and was Ufted off. We searched a long time for
the shepherds, and at length their flocks were discovered.
I took a little tea, and surrendered myself to rest and
to sleep, not being able to eat anything. My companions
pretended to seek out and purchase a kid, but unless
you furnish the money, nothing of this luxurious sort is
ever obtained in The Desert. I had no money, and we
had no kid. Meanwhile our people, who had only brought
with them dates, ate up my little stock of cuscasou.
I had only laid in a sufficient quantity for some fifteen
days, from Ghat to Mourzuk. Passed a bad night, and
greatly relaxed.
21st. — Up to this time I had always traveUed through
The Desert with a large number of persons. Our party
was now only four. And yet I felt no fear, and went to
bed last night in open desert with as much indifference
as if I had been in a hotel in Europe. Such is the
force of habit. The Desert itself now even begins to
wear a homely face to me, and, indeed, for the present, I
am obUged to make it my home. We rose early, and I
found myself a little better. At the time I attributed
my iUness to the water of The Wady, but which was in
correct. Before starting, I obtained a bowl of sour mUk.
To my surprise I saw only women tending these flocks. I
asked about their husbands. They were gone away to

304 THE GREAT DESERT,
work in Ghat, Fezzan, and other parts. Here were three
or four adult women, and a few chUdren, wandering soUta-
rily in Open Desert ! Not a habitation was near for many
miles round ! I could not help exclaiming, " Are you
not afraid of robbers ?" " No," replied an aged woman,
" I have been here all my life, and shaU die here. Why
go away? What better shaU I find in Mourzuk or
Ghat? Can they give me more than milk ? More than
milk I care not for. And God is here as elsewhere !"
Let the reader picture to his mind's eye, three or four
lone females, with a child or two, wandering over a
sandy plain, tending amongst a thinly-scattered forest of
gum-acacia trees a few small goats, without a house or
even a hut to sleep under, only the shade of a straw mat
suspended in the prickly trees, and, then, repeat and
mark weU the truth of Pope's fine lines, —
" Order is heaven's first law, and this confess'd,
Some are, and must be, greater than the rest, —
More rich, more wise ; but who infers from hence
That such are happier, shocks all common sense."
Our people observed to me, " This is a country of the
Sultan, so the women fear nothing." But the environs
of Ghadames are the country of the Sultan, which does not
prevent the depredations of banditti. There is no water
here, they go to Agath to bring their water for them
selves and their flocks. Of course, the complexion of
these sheperdesses is quite brown or brown-black, by ex
posure to the weather. I shaU ever remember the
modest air with which a nomade young woman came
and presented us with a bowl of milk. It was modesty's
self's picture ! The shepherdess nymph stepped forward

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 305
timidly, with her eyes averted, not presuming even to
look at us ; and as soon as she placed the bowl on the
ground, a short distance from us, she escaped to the
thicket of the tholh-tree, like a young roe of the timid
trembling herd. On her glowing cheek, —
" Sweet virgin modesty reluctant strove,
While browsing goats at ease around her fed."
" And now she sees her own dear flock
Beneath verdant boughs along the rock —
And her innocent soul at the peaceful sight
Is swimming o'er with a still delight."
Such a picture of pure heartfelt shyness and de
licate modesty could only be witnessed in these
soUtudes, where this maiden shepherdess never per
haps speaks to any man but her own way-worn,
severe, but honest-hearted father, when he returns from
his Uttle peregrinations, bringing a few blankets, a little
barley and oU, the staple matters of existence for these
lonely nomades. Nothing was given in return for the
milk, for we had nothing to give. But if offered it
would not have been accepted, by the laws of hospitahty
amongst these desert Arcadians. The reason now
assigned for not giving us a kid, is, all the men are
absent, and they cannot part with one, even if money be
sent from Mourzuk for payment.
About 3 p.m., to my great joy, we arrived at the
viUage of Agath. Our route was over a bare level
plain, and our progress like at sea, when the masts of the
ship are first seen, then the hull ; so here we first saw
the heads of the date-palms, then their trunks, and then
VOL. II. x

306 THE GREAT DESERT.
the clusters of the hovels of the viUage. I was happy to
learn our guide determined to pass the night here. The
poor feUow was himself worn to a skeleton in travelling
these wastes, with but one eye left, and that very dim.
He was glad to " put up" for the night. When he
started it was to have been a journey of a day and a
half, it was now to be three days. We got into an
empty hovel, and with palm-branches kindled a fire,
which was kept up in a blaze to serve for a lamp. This
is the usual practice, now and then putting on a piece of
wood to make a light. Very few Saharans have the
luxury of lamps or candles. I stUl suffered from bile,
languor, and exhaustion, and once placed upon my
mattress, I did not leave it till next morning. We had
no provisions, for our party had eaten up all I had. We
tried to get something from the Sheikh of the vUlage,
but only succeeded in obtaining a few loaves of newly-
baked bread, with a Uttle herb sauce, hot with peppers,
to pour upon the bread to moisten it. Mustapha at
tempted to make a great noise, and talked about report
ing him to the Pasha of Mourzuk, and getting him basti
nadoed for treating a Christian in this way. I dis
couraged these threats, and would have no imbroglio, for
I knew the character of the Sheikh could not weU be
worse than that of Mustapha himself. Mustapha de
manded meat, but I begged only a little flour and
butter to make some bazeen in the morning. The
Sheikh promised and took leave. In the morning the
Sheikh fled, and we saw no more of him. He deserved
to be reported at Mourzuk. Hospitality certainly
does not flourish at Agath. It's odd, the only time I

FROM GHAT TO MOURZUK. 307
was seriously ill, and reaUy wanted hospitality, I found
it not. To-day we picked off several fine pieces of
gum from the tholh. Many of the trees had their
branches lopped off, first for allowing the goats to nibble
the green leaves, and afterwards to use the dry branches
for firing.

x 2

308

CHAPTER XXV.
RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.
Arrival at Mourzuk ; and reported as a Christian Marabout from
Soudan — Meet Angelo, who conducts me to his Master, the
British Vice-Consul.' — Hearty Welcome from Mr. Gagliuffi. —
Detail of the Slave-Caravans of The Wady. — Read the News
papers ; Massacre of Jema-el-Ghazouat, and the Annexation of
Texas. — Visit to the Bashaw of Mourzuk. — Visits to the Com
mandant of the Garrison, and the Kady. — Poetical Scrap of
European Antiquity. — Celebration of a Wedding. — Environs of
Mourzuk. — Camera Oscura. — Mourzuk Couriers. — The Kid
napped Circassian Officer. — Old Yousef, the Renegade. — Dine
with the Greek Doctor on a Carnival Day. — An Albanian's
Revenge. — Greece and its Diplomatists. — Officials of Mourzuk.
¦ — An Arab's estimate of God and Mahomet. — What is Truth ?
i — Improvements of the Commandant of the Troops. — How
English Politics taste in The Desert. — Visit to the Grave of
Mr. Ritchie.
22nd. — Rose early, and got off again as well as I could,
considering I had had little or nothing to eat for the
last two days, and should have nothing tiU the evening,
when we expected to reach Mourzuk. Course east and
south-east. StiU cold and windy. Palms scattered
over aU the route, from Agath to Mourzuk, but only a few
of them cultivated. It was most refreshing to behold so
many trees on our road, after traversing such treeless
and sandy wastes. A few weUs here and there, and
a Uttle corn cultivation. Arrived at Mourzuk at about
4 P.M. I here thought of a squib which had been published in

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 309
a rival paper at Malta, representing me as "The Consul of
the Blacks at Mourzuk," in allusion to and satirizing my
anti-slavery propensities. These things will come back
to one's memory years and years after they have been
forgotten. When I read the squib, I little imagined
I should ever visit Mourzuk, and yet the visit could
be traced readily enough as resulting from my anti-
slavery labours in Malta and the Mediterranean.
Mustapha stopped at the gate to make his toUet, and
I lent him my barracan to make on entering the
city. Moors and all Saharan travellers dress themselves
up before they enter any large or particular place, when
on a journey, and they wonder why I do not follow
their nice tidy example. On entering Mourzuk, I sup
pose I looked very queer, for it was immediately reported
to the Bashaw, " A Christian Marabout is arrived from
Soudan." We were stopped a few minutes at the gates,
to see if I had any exciseable articles. This done, I
made the best of my way to the residence of Mr. Gag
liuffi. On the road I casuaUy met the Maltese servant of
the Vice-Consul. His face brightened up with joyful
amazement, and he shook me eagerly by the hands.
Englishmen arrive here once in half a century, or rather
never, which sufficiently accounts for the excitement of
the Maltese. Angelo took me direct to the Consul's
house, and I found Mr. GagUuffi at the door. The Con
sul was as astonished to see me as his servant. He
stared at me as if I had just dropped from the clouds.
He had heard of my going to Ghadames, Ghat, and
Soudan, but did not expect to see me one while. I need
not add, Mr. GagUuffi gave me a most hearty welcome.
I found the Consul in a very fine and spacious house for

310 THE GREAT DESERT.
oases of Desert, with " all his English* comforts around
him," as we say. Seven months had made me forget all
these things, and I was now a Saharan entering into the
domains of comfortable, if not civilized, life. The ap
pearance of Mourzuk was not very pleasing to me, the
major part of its dwellings being miserable hovels. The
Castle looked dirty, and tumbling down. Nevertheless, the
presence of Turkish troops and officers in uniform about
the streets, with a variety of people congregated from dif
ferent towns and districts of Sahara, gave the place more
the aspect of a city than any other town I had seen since
I left Tripoli. I was extremely knocked up and unweU,
and at once determined not to leave Mourzuk until my
health should be restored. I found myself right as to
the date of my arrival at Mourzuk, on comparing notes
with Mr. Gagliuffi ; but two days wrong as to the name
of the day, having written down Friday instead of Sun
day. As to the Moorish reckoning of Ghat and Gha
dames, that was quite different from the name of the
day, and the number of the day, as found in Mourzuk.
Time is very badly and incorrectly kept in The Sahara.
Some few particulars must now be recorded of the
slave-caravans which I left in The Wady. The united
number was some one hundred and thirty slaves. Two-
thirds were females, and these young women or girls. There
were a few children. Necessity teaches some of the best
as well as the sternest lessons. A child of three years of
age rode a camel alone, and without fear. The poor
little creature knew if it complained or discovered itself
* Although Mr. Gagliuffi is an Austrian, a native of Trieste, he
has acquired all the English ideas of comfort, and speaks excellent
English.

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 311
frightened, it woiUd be obliged to walk tlirough The
Desert. The slaves were fed in the morning with dates,
and in the evening with ghusub. Female slaves, after
the style of Aheer people, pounded the ghusub in a large
wooden mortar, just before cooking. But they had little
to eat, and were miserably fed, except those who had the
good fortune to be purchased by Haj Ibrahim. For
some of these improvident stupid merchants had actually
purchased slaves without the means of keeping them.
On arriving at The Wady, they sent jointly, through Haj
Ibrahim, to borrow a hundred doUars of the Bashaw of
Mourzuk. The messenger was Mustapha. His High
ness kindly enough handed him over the money. AU
the masters carried a whip, but this was rarely used,
except to drive them along the road, when they
lagged from exhaustion. Thus it was administered
at times when it could least be borne, when nature was
sinking from fatigue and utter weariness ! and there
fore was cruel and inhuman. Yet only some twenty
were sick, and two died. When very ill they were
lashed upon the back of the camel. Some of the young
women that had become favourites of their masters expe
rienced a little indulgence. I observed occasionally
love-making going on between the slaves, and some of
the boys would carry wood for the girls. My servant
Said had one or two black beauties under his protection.
But everything was of the most innocent and correct
character. Some groups of slaves were aristocratic, and
would not associate with the others. Three young
females under the care of the Shereef, assumed the airs
and attitude of exclusives, and would not associate with
the rest. Every passion and habit of civilized, is repre-

312 THE GREAT DESERT.
sented in savage life. A perfect democracy, in any
country and state of society, is a perfect lie, and a
leveUer is a brainless fool. There is also an aristocracy
in crime and in virtue, in demons and in angels. The
slaves are clad variously. Haj Ibrahim tried to give
every one of his a blanket or barracan, more or less
large. Besides this, the females had a short chemise, and
a dark-blue Soudan cotton short-sleeved frock. Many had
only this frock. The poor creatures suffered more from
the ignorant neglect of the Touaricks than the Tripoline
merchants, and their complaints and diseases usually
begin with their former masters. Yet I am assured by
Mr. Gagliuffi, that the Touaricks of Aheer are infinitely
better and kinder masters than the Tibboo merchants of
Bornou, or even many Tripolines. The Tibboos can
not bring a female child over The Desert of the tender
age of six or seven, without deflowering her, whilst the
Touaricks of Aheer shudder at such sensual brutality,
and even bring maidens to the market of an advanced
age. The brutal Tibboos besides bring their slaves quite
naked, with only a bit of leather or cotton wound round
their loins, whUst the Touaricks always furnish them
with some Uttle clothing.
23rd. — Felt better, but weak. The excitement pro
duced in me by my new quarters and reading the
journals, after four months elapsing since I saw the last,
made all the people fancy I was already attacked with
their Mourzuk fever. Mr. GagUuffi treated me as such,
and the Greek doctor was sent for, who approved of my
being treated as attacked, and I took accordingly fever
powders. But another night's rest restored me and I
discovered no symptoms of fever, for which I could not

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 313
be too thankful, as the fever nearly attacks all strangers
journeying in Mourzuk. The news from Europe was
exceedingly disagreeable to me, inasmuch as I read of
crimes and events of a much darker shade than the
things which I had seen in Desert amongst the Barba
rians. The two events which arrested my attention were
the massacre of five hundred French troops near Jama
El-Ghazouat, and the annexation of Texas, as most
relating to my present pursuits. The first was an
evident retribution for burning alive a tribe of Arabs in
the caverns of the Atlas. Some high personages in
Paris deplored this massacre of their devoted and hap
less countrymen, but the poor Arabs of the Atlas, the
men, women, and children burnt or suffocated alive, were
unpitied and unmoumed*, because they happened to be
resisting the placing of a foreign yoke on their necks . Such
is the high tone of our political morality in Europe ! No
wonder the curse of God is upon us and afflicts us with
famine and cholera ! The annexation of Texas, for the
extension of slavery and the slave trade, I hope will at
once and for ever disabuse the minds of our wild democrats,
who fancy that because people call themselves repub
licans and estabUsh a republican form of government,
therefore they are the friends of freedom. Better had
America been bound hand and foot for ever to the aristo
cratic tyranny of the mother country, than that she should
now become, as she is, the world's paUadium of Negro
slavery, and the huge breeding-house of slaves to endless
generations! We cannot but recommend to these trans
atlantic tramplers upon the freedom and rights of man,
* As a remarkable exception, some one or two French papers
did protest against this wholesale burning alive of an Arab tribe.

314 THE GREAT DESERT.
in defiance of all divine and human laws, the following
lines of Mr. James —
" Oh, let them look to where in bonds,
For help their bondsmen cry —
Oh, let them look, ere British hands
Wipe out that living lie.
" Veil, starry banner, veil your pride,
The blood-red cross before —
Emblem of that by Jordan's side
Man's freedom price that bore.
No land is strong that owns a slave,
Vain is it wealthy, crafty, brave."
" The slaver's boastful thirst of gain,
Tends but to break his bondsman's chain."
2ith. —Much better in health to-day. Sent off Said,
with a man of this place, to fetch my trunk and other
baggage left in The Wady. Find Mr. Gagliuffi keeps up
a friendly correspondence with the Vizier of the Sheikh
of Bornou. Any one going to Bornou would derive
great advantage from the Vice-Consul's letters of recom
mendation. Mr. Gagliuffi has also considerable influence
over the population of Fezzan, and is on good terms with
the Mourzuk Bashaw.
25th. — Felt weU enough to-day to caU upon the
Bashaw. His Highness's full name and title is Hasan
Bashaw Belazee. I was introduced to him by Mr. Gag
liuffi, who previously insisted upon sprucing me up a bit,
and removing my Maraboutish appearance by getting me
a new red cap or fez. My Christian hat was left at
Ghadames. It was impossible to wear it in Desert or
towns, for people always said I looked like a Christian
devil when I wore the European black hat. We found

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 315
His Highness just recovered from a month's indisposition.
He received us very poUtely, and Mr. Gagliuffi tells me
he is really a very good sort of man. His Highness
gave us pipes and tea, which is becoming now a favourite
beverage amongst the Moors of East, as it has long been
in West Barbary, amongst aU races of the Maroquines,
who have introduced the fashion of tea-drinking and
teetotahsm at Timbuctoo. His Highness was very talk
ative and affable. He was amazed at my audacity in
going amongst the Touaricks without a single letter of
recommendation, and looks upon my arrival at Mourzuk
as an escape from death to Ufe. His Highness confessed,
however, that the Touaricks are people of one word, and
that, after having told me they would protect me, I did
right in confiding in their honour. He added, " If you
go to Aheer hereafter I will assist you aU I can." Mr..
Gagliuffi pretends the Bashaw has considerable influence
amongst all the Touarghee tribes, and the Touaricks always
follow strictly the recommendations which the Bashaw,
as governor of the province of Fezzan, and a near neigh
bour, has taken upon himself to give them. Every per
son carrying a letter from His Highness to the Touaricks,
has invariably been well received. His Highness is very
fond of illustrating his conversation by simUes, and
related a little facetious palaver which he had with a
Targhee of Aheer.
His Excellency thus to the Targhee : — " You always
thought there was a great mountain separating you from
us, protecting you from our armies. You besides always
boasted of having an army of 100,000 warriors. But
the other day there came to you a bee, and buzzed about
your ears, and you all at once fled before the little bee.

316 THE GREAT DESERT.
How is this ? Where are your 100,000 unconquerable
heroes ?"
The Targhee thus to the Bashaw: — "Ah, ah, how
amazing ! it was just so."
H. E. — "But are you not ashamed of yourselves ?"
The Targhee. — "Ah, ah, butweshaUnow go and fight
them." H. E. — " Well, we shaU see your courage."
The Bashaw explained to us, how the Touaricks of
Aheer were put to flight by the Weled SiUeiman, whom
he the Bashaw, and his master at Tripoli, only esteemed
as so many troublesome little bees. This was the affair
of the capture of the 1000 camels, when the Touaricks
were carrying off the spoUs of a Tibboo village, before
mentioned. These Weled Suleiman have just joined the
rest of the refugees under the son of Abd-El-Geleel.
The Bashaw is the famous Moorish commander who cap
tured and beheaded Abd-El-Geleel, and who has sworn
to extirpate not only the family of this Sheikh, but all
the tribes subjected to bis son. The Bashaw received
the appointment of Bey or Bashaw of Fezzan, for his
hatred to this family, and his services in capturing and
destroying its chief. Belazee is a fresh-coloured Moor,
and rather good-looking, with a dark, piercing, and cruel
eye. He is about forty years of age and very stout.
Of his courage there can be no question, and his repu
tation as a mUitary man is very great in aU this part of
Sahara. Mr. Gagliuffi had instructed me diplomatically
to boast of the attentions which I had received from the
Touaricks, for observed the Consul, " If you say the
Touaricks did not treat you weU in every respect, the
Bashaw will commiserate you before your face, but laugh

RESIDENCE AT M0UEZUK. 31 7
at you behind your back, and tell his people how happy
he is (and I'm sure he wUl be happy) you have been
well fleeced by the Touaricks, of whom the Turks here
are jealous in the extreme." Mr. Gagliuffi also volun
teered a diplomatic hit of another kind on his own
account : " My friend, your ExceUency, on entering the
gates of Mourzuk, and looking up at the Castle, thought
he was entering a town of the dead, it looked so hor
ribly dingy and desolate." I said to the Consul after
wards, " Why did you say so ?" He replied, " I am
trying my utmost to improve the city, and want the
Bashaw to whitewash the Castle. He has promised me
he wiU do it." The Bashaw addressed me, " Think
yourself lucky you have escaped, but for the future you
must be placed in the hands of the Touaricks by us as a
sacred deposit, and then if anything wrong happens we
shall demand you of all the Touaricks by force." I
thanked him for the compliment; I believe he meant
what he said at the time. But such an insulting message
could not be delivered to the brave, chivalric, and free-
born sons of the Touarghee deserts ; they would trample
your letter under their feet, or spear it with their spears.
Mr. Gagliuffi and myself then went to see the troops
exercised. The commanding officer is trying to reduce
them to order and discipline, and succeeds admirably.
Before he arrived, great disorder reigned amongst them,
and they were constantly found intoxicated in the streets.
After the manoeuvring, we visited the commander and his
staff, who were all extremely polite. The Bashaw does
not interfere with the discipline of the army. The Turks
can weU distinguish, if they please, between civU and
military affairs. And it is wrong to consider the

318 THE GREAT DESEET.
Turkish Government and people, like Prussia and other
military nations of the north, as one great military
camp. We afterwards visited the Kady, Haj Moham
med Ben Abd-Deen, an intimate friend of the Consid.
He had under his care the Denham and Clapperton
caravan, and is well acquainted with us English. I was
surprised to find the Kady quite black, although his fea
tures were not altogether Negro. Mr. Gagliuffi says
Mourzuk is the first Negro country. This statement,
however, involves a very difficult question. Fezzan,
Ghat, and other oases, contain many families of free
Negroes, some perhaps settled formerly as merchants,
and others the descendants of freed slaves. I do not
think the real black population begins until we reach the
Tibboos, although Ghatroun is mostly inhabited by Ne
groes. Certainly, the Negroes have never emigrated
farther north in colonies. Mr. Gagliuffi has just received
by the courier from Tripoli, several watches sent there for
repair, belonging to the Sheikh of Bornou. They were
given to the Sheikh by our Bornou expedition, twenty
years ago. It is pleasing to see with what care the
watches have been preserved in Central Africa, for they
looked as good as new.
26th. — I must now consider myself recovered from
indisposition. At first, people talked so much about
Mourzuk fever that I thought I must have it as a matter
of course, and felt some disappointment at its not at
tacking me. Three-fourths of the Europeans who come
here invariably have the fever. I speak of the Turks.
It attacks them principaUy in the beginning of the hot,
and cold, weather, or in May and November. Fortu
nately, I am here in February. Mourzuk is emphatically

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 319
caUed, Uke many places of Africa, Blad Elhemah —
XJJ i&j — "country of fever."
Amongst the Christian and European curiosities and
antiquities which I have discovered in this Mussulman
and Saharan city, is the foUowing poetical scrap, pub
lished by myself, some four or five years ago, upon that
beautiful rock of Malta, or, according to the Maltese.
Fior del Mondo, " The flower of the world."
SONNET.
" Hail, verdant groves ! where joy's extatic power
Once gave the sultry noon a charm divine,
Excelling all that Phoebus or the Nine
Have told in glowing verse ! — Youth's radiant hour
Yet beams upon my soul, — while memory true
Retraces all the past, and brings to view
The magic pleasures which these groves have known,
When Hope and Love, and Life itself, were new,
Delights which touch the SorL op Taste alone,
Taught by the many and reserved for few !
0 ! busy Memory, thou hast touched a chord
RecalUng images, beloved, — adored, —
While Fancy keen still wields her knife and fork,
O'er roasted turkey and a chine of pork !" Clementina .
I found it flying about in one of Mr. GagUuffi's old lum
ber rooms, and, being such a precious gem, I must needs
reproduce it upon the page of my travels. Who is the
author, and how I came by it, I cannot now teU. I
only know it once adorned the columns of the " Malta
Times," at a period which now seems to me an ao-e
ago. There was a wedding to-day, and the bride was car
ried on the back of the camel, attended with the high
honour of the frequent discharge of musketry. In order

320 THE GREAT DESERT.
that I might likewise partake of these honours, the Arab
cavaliers stopped before the Consul's house, and several
times discharged their matchlocks. It was a gay, busy,
bustUng scene. The cavaliers afterwards proceeded to
the Castle, and discharged their matchlocks, standing up
on the shovel-stirrups, and firing them off at full gaUop.
But these cavaliers are nothing comparable to the crack
horsemen of Morocco. Their horses are in a miserable
condition, and they themselves ride badly. The horse
does not do weU in the Saharan oases. In Fezzan he is
often obliged to be fed on dates, which are both heating
and relaxing to the animal. MeanwhUe the discharge
of musketry was rattling about the city, the lady sat with
the most exemplary patience on the camel (covered up,
of course), in a sort of triumphal car. A troop of fe
males were at the heels of the animal loo-looing. The
ceremony stirred up the phlegm of the Turks, and de
lighted the Arabs.
In the evening I visited one of the gardens in the
suburbs. The corn was in the ear on this, the 26th day
of February. In a fortnight more they wiU cease their
irrigation, and it wUl be reaped quickly afterwards. We
gathered some young green peas. The flax plant is
here cultivated ; the fibres and dried leaves are burnt,
and the seed is eaten ; no other use is made of it. Two
crops of everything are obtained in the year, one now, in
the spring, and the other in autumn. The irrigation by
which all this cultivation is produced, rain rarely ever
faUing, cannot be carried on during the intense and
absorbing heats of summer. A couple of asses and a
couple of men, or a man and a boy, do aU the business of
irrigation. Fezzan water is brackish generaUy, and the

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 321
wells are about fifteen or twenty feet deep. These are
in the form of great holes or pits. The more distant
suburbs present beautiful forests of palms, producing a
fine reviving effect upon an eye like mine, long sad
dened by the ungrateful aspect of a dreary desert. The
atmosphere and ambient air is less pleasing to view,
presenting always a light dirty red hue, as if en-
charged with the fine sand rising from the surface.
The soil of the Fezzan oases is indeed mostly arenose,
and the dates are nearly aU impregnated with fine par
ticles of sand, which takes place when they are ripe, and
very much lowers their value. But this sandy soil does
not sufficiently account for the eternal dirty vermilion
hue of the atmosphere of Mourzuk. They say its site is
very low, in the shallow of a plain, and to this cause
they attribute its fever.
27th. — Health quite restored, and got up early. There
are two or three round holes in the window-shutters of
my bed-room ; by the assistance of these, when the
shutters are closed, in the way of a camera oscura, aU
the objects passing and repassing in the streets are most
sharply and artistically drawn on the opposite waU.
Here beautifully delineated I see the camels pass slowly
along, — the ostriches picking and billing about, which
are the scavengers of the street, instead of the pigs at
Washington, (see Dickens,) and the dogs of Constanti
nople, (see all the tourists,) — the women fetching water,
— the lounging soldiers limping by with their black
thick shoes puUed on as slippers, — the slaves squatting in
circles, playing in the dirt, — groups of merchants, black,
yellow, ' and brown, bargaining and wrangling, — asses
laden with wood, — the coffee-maker carrying about cups
VOL. II. T

322 THE GREAT DESERT.
of coffee, &c, &c. Wrote letters for to-morrow's post,
and very disagreeable to me, as announcing my tour
broken up midway.
28th. — Post-day. The courier leaves every Saturday,
but it requires nearly forty days to get the answer of a
letter from Tripoli. The courier is eighteen days en
route. A caravan occupies from twenty-four to thirty
days. In the route of Sockna there is water nearly
every day, but one or two places, the longest space
three and a half, and four days. The Commander
visited me again this morning, as also the Greek doctor,
who calls every morning. The Major now came in. He
is a young Circassian; by birth a Christian, but kid
napped and sold to the Turks. He is a very amiable
young man, and deeply regrets that he was not brought
up a Christian. It is high time this infamous practice of
selling the Christians of the East to the Turks, was put
a stop to. It is to be hoped that Russia wiU atone for
the wrongs which she has inflicted upon Poland, and
offer some compensation for the blood which she is still
shedding in Circassia, by aboUshing this odious system of
Christian slavery through aU south-eastern Europe, as in
western Asia. Notwithstanding our hatred to Russia's
system, and its iron-souled Grand Council, we English-
men (I presume to speak for aU), are wUling and happy
to do justice to Russia in the efforts which she made,
and the aid she rendered the Servians, in emancipating
them from the galling yoke of Mussulman bigotry and
Turkish tyranny*. Nicholas has a noble and mighty
mission before him, not to subjugate Turkey, or infringe
* See Mrs. Kerr's translation of the History of Servia.

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 323
upon the liberties of Europe, but to civilize his vast
empire, and the wUd countries of Northern Asia. But
the Czar does not seem to understand his destiny — or
the task, more probably, is beyond his power. It must
be left to his successor, or happier times. This Circas
sian teUs me he has not had the fever in Mourzuk. He
thinks the city healthier than formerly, and attributes
the fever to people's eating dates, and their bad living.
Dates are not only the principal growth of the Fezzan
oases, but the main subsistence of their inhabitants. All
live on dates; men, women and chUdren, horses, asses
and camels, and sheep, fowls and dogs.
Mr. Gagliuffi gives the foUowing statistics of the slave-
traffic vid Mourzuk from Bornou and Soudan : —
In 1843 - - 2,200
In 1844 - 1,200
In 1845 - - 1,100

Total, 4,500
The two last years shows a diminution, and he thinks
the trade to be on the decline. But this evidently
arises from the Bornouese caravan being intercepted, or
the traffic interrupted by the fugitive Arabs on the
route. There has been no large caravan from Bornou
for three years. And Mr. Gagliuffi considers the route,
at the present, so unsafe, as positively to refuse counte
nancing my going up to Bornou this spring. However,
a couple of smaU slave-caravans have ventured stealthUy
down twice a year, conducted by Tibboos. The principal
Tripoline slave-dealers who frequent Mourzuk are from
Bengazi and Egypt. Slaves are besides brought occa-
y 2

324 THE GREAT DESERT.
sionaUy from Wadai ; and there is a biennial caravan
from Wadai to Bengazi direct, leading to the coast a
thousand and more slaves at once. Our Consul is fre
quently employed in administering medicine to the
poor slaves, who arrive at Mourzuk from the interior,
with their health broken down, and often at death's
door. He makes frequent cures, but, alas ! it is for the
benefit of the ferocious Tibboo slave-dealer. The Con
sul naturally laments he cannot buy these miserable
slaves, who, in this state of disease, are often offered at
the market for five or six dollars each. He has no funds
at his disposal, or he would procure them by some
means, cure them, and give them their liberty.
This evening I caUed upon a Moor, an ancient renegade
of the name of Yousef, who was weU acquainted with all
our countrymen of the Bornou expedition. His arm was
set, after being broken, by Dr. Oudney, which he still
exhibits as an old reminiscence of the doctor. Yousef
has lately given great disgust to his good neighbours, by
purchasing a new concubine slave, to whom he introduced
us, notwithstanding that he has his house full of women
and chUdren. This sufficiently proves that Mohamme
dans discountenance the unbridled Ucence of fiUing their
houses with women. One of his old female slaves, by
whom Yousef has had several chUdren, said to Mr.
Gagliuffi, "I won't speak to you any more, Consul.
Don't come more to this house. Why did you give my
master money to buy a new slave ?" The Consul protested
he did not. Old Yousef laughed, and drily observed : —
" When this (pointing to the new slave), is in the family
way, I must purchase another wife. If I can't keep my
wives myself, I must beg of my neighbours to contribute

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 325
a portion of the necessary expense." Old Yousef is a
thorough-going scamp of a Moor.
1 st March. — Occupied in writing down the stations of
the Bornou route from the mouth of one of the Sheikh's
couriers. There are now two of these couriers in Mour
zuk, natives of Bornou. The Sheikh corresponds with
Belazee as weU as with Mr. Gagliuffi. Bornouese
couriers travel in pairs, lest a single one should fail if sent
alone. They are mounted on camels, and it requires them
forty days to make the traverse from Mourzuk to Bornou.
I tired the courier pretty well with dictating to me the
route. It is extremely difficult to get an African to sit
down quietly and attentively an hour, and give yon in
formation. If ever so well paid, they show the greatest
impatience. Afterwards paid a visit to the young Cir
cassian officer. He related to me how he was captured.
It was in the broad day, when he was quite a chUd,
playing by a Uttle brook, and picking up stones to throw
in the water. The officer says, that in his dreams, he
often sees the sUvery bubbles and rings of the water
rising after he had thrown the pebble into the brook-;
and, especiaUy, does he see the ever-flown visions of his
green and flowery pastimes of chUdhood, whilst he is
out on duty in the open and thirsty desert, lying dozing
under an intense sun, darting its beams of fire on his
head. The kidnapper took him to Constantinople. His
brother came up after to rescue him. But the master, to
whom he was sold, terrified him, by threatening, if he
should show the least wish to return, to cut him to
pieces. The barbarous threat had its desired effect, and
he submitted to his fate. This Circassian officer has still
a hankering after Christians, and in his heart is no good

326 THE GREAT DESERT.
Mussulman. He tries to adopt as much as possible
Christian manners, and boasts of having aU things like
them. Such forced renegades deserve our most sincere
sympathies. Evening — Mr. Gagliuffi and myself dined with the
Greek doctor. It was a carnival day with the doctor,
and he prepared a befitting entertainment. An Albanian
Greek dined with us, who had been brought up from
Tripoli by Abd-El-Geleel, to make gunpowder for the
Arab prince. When the Turks captured Mourzuk they
found here the Albanian. He has nearly lost his sight,
and is now charitably supported by the Doctor. We
were waited upon by the Doctor's servant, an Ionian
Greek, and the Maltese servant of the Consul, and so
mustered six Christians, a large number for the interior
of Africa. The dinner was magnificently sumptuous for
this part of Africa. We had a whole lamb roasted.
After dinner, its shoulder bones were clean scraped
and held up to the light by the Doctor, in order to
catch a glimpse of the dark future ! This is an an
cient superstitition of the Greeks. Besides several
Turkish dishes, (for the Doctor Uves half Turk, half
Christian,) we had salmon and Sardinians. This was the
first piece of fish I had seen or eaten for seven months.
It was remarked when the large caravan from Bornou
comes, expected in this summer, it will certainly bring
dried fish from the Lake Tschad. In Central Africa,
they dry fish, as meat, without salt, and it keeps well.
We had bottled stout, table wines, Malaga, rosatas, and
rum. We were all of course very happy, and the Alba
nian sang several of his wUd mountain songs. He was
very merry, and swore he was obliged to keep himself

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 327
merry, because, not Uke other people, he had an affair
which rankled in his breast. We asked him what it was.
The Albanian answered, greatly excited, both with his
wine and his subject, " A man kiUed my brother, and
I have not yet been able to kill him. The vengeance of
my brother's blood torments me night and day. I pray
God to return to my country to kill the murderer." This
Albanian is an enthusiastic Greek, and wishes and prays
to see his countrymen plant again the Cross on the dome
of St. Sophia. "But many of you have turned Turk,"
I remarked. "Yes," observed the Albanian, "many
of my countrymen have turned Turk, aud I, who am
less than the least of them all, I have not committed this
folly. I can't comprehend how they could so trample
on the name of their Saviour." In short, I found the
Albanian possessed of all the fire, bigotry, ferocity and
vindictiveness, for which his countrymen are so cele
brated. I encouraged him, and said, "The Greek
kingdom ought to have its bounds a little widened."
The Greek jumped up wildly at this remark, and clench
ing my hand, began screaming one of his patriotic airs,
and cursing the Turks, so that we became aU at once a
seditious dinner-party, under the shade of the pale
Orescent. Had we been in Paris, that pinnacle of liberty
and civUization, we should all immediately have been
conveyed off, without finishing our dessert and the wine
which made us such patriot Greeks, to the sobering
apartment of the Conciergerie. HappUy we were in The
Desert, under the rule of barbarians. Coletti was men
tioned, but I forget what was said of him. In Jerbah, a
Greek merchant protested to me, that the only way to
regenerate Greece was to cut off the head of this Coletti,

328 THE GREAT DESERT.
as well as all the present chiefs of parties. He observed
" Another generation alone can regenerate Greece." The
merchant added, " I should like also to hang up that
Monsieur Piscatory."
It does seem a pity that diplomacy should be reduced
to the most detestable intrigues, lying and duplicity,
which if any other class of men were guUty of, they
would be put out of the pale of society. But man
kind would care little about these archpriests of false
hood, were it not for the serious consequences resulting
from their works. Look at the state of Greece now, the
handicraft of diplomatists! Such is the result of the
good and friendly offices rendered to an infant state by
these sons of the Father of Lies!
At this time there are some nine hundred Albanians
in Tripoli, regular troops of the Porte, whose only occu
pation is lounging, lying and smoking about the streets.
There were sixty or seventy Christians amongst them,
but for some reason or other unexplained, the Bashaw
sent them all back. The report is, the Sultan does not
know what to do with these Albanians, and has sent
them to Africa to decimate them. The massacreing
Janissary days are past, and we have arrived at an age
of the more humane policy of letting them die of fever
on the burning plains of Africa. Perhaps France has
recommended the Porte this policy, having found it
answer so weU in the experiment made on malcontent
regiments in Algeria. How very humane all our Euro
pean Governments are getting! How kindly they treat
their poor troops ! Who would not be a soldier, and fight
the battles of "glorious war?" But we must return
to our host, who is a very different kind of Greek.

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 329
Doctors are always pacific men. The Doctor observed
laconicaUy, " I eat the bread of the Turks, and whilst I
do so I must be, and I am a good Ottoman subject." Mr.
Gagliuffi speaks Greek and Turkish besides Arabic and
Italian, and so he is at home with all these people. It
is happy for the Consul he does, for after all, Mourzuk
is but a miserable dirty place, and would kill with ennui,
if fever were wanting, some score of English Vice-
Oonsuls. 2nd. — The Consul received a visit from the Adjutant-
Major, Agha Suleman. The Doctor came in and was
very merry with the Adjutant, who is always trying to
get himself reported sick, in order that he may return to
TripoU. The Adjutant observed to me, whilst he drew
himself up, made a wry face, and heaved a deep sigh, as
if his last, to persuade the Doctor he was greatly suffer
ing, " I would not go to Bornou if you were to give me
100,000 doUars." But why should he? With what
sort of feehng could he go there? The spirit of disco
very, which once stirred up the Arabian savans to
explore Nigritia, is now totally extinct both in Arabs
and Turks. I learnt some items of the pay of Officials
in Mourzuk. The Bashaw has 5,000 mahboubs per
annum. The Adjutant-Major has 30 doUars per men
sem; the Doctor 25 doUars; and so on of the rest, the
commanding officer having perhaps 50 doUars per
mensem. This amount of pay is considered sufficient
for expenses at Mourzuk. The officers have quarters
with the Bashaw in the Castle. Mr. GagUuffi related
a characteristic anecdote of the ignorance prevailing
amongst the Arabs as gross as that of Negroes. Mo
hammed Circus (or the Circassian) was a few years ago

330 THE GREAT DESERT.
Bashaw of Bengazi "whUst Mr. G. visited that place.
The Bashaw was buying something of an Arab, and gave
him but a third of its real value. Mr. G. took upon
himself to say, " Why do you injure this poor man
by giving him but a third of the value of his goods ?"
"Oh!" rejoined the Bashaw, "that is not a man, he is
only a dog. Let me call him back and you shall see
what he is." Immediately the Bashaw called the man
back and asked him, "Who was the better, God or
Mahomet ?" The Arab bluntly answered, smiling with
conceit, "Why do you ask me such a thing? What
harm do I receive from Mahomet or what harm do others
receive from our prophet ? But God kiUs one man with a
sword, hangs another, drowns another. All the evil of
the world is from God, but Mahomet does nothing except
good for us."
This poor ignorant fellow was filled with ideas of
irresistible fate. Some Arabs and Moors ascribe only
the good things to God, whilst others all things, the evU
and the good. When this anecdote was being ended, a
Moor came in, and being in a disputing humour, I asked
him abruptly, —
"What is truth?"
" The Koran."
" Who told you the Koran is truth ?"
" Mahomet."
" And who told Mahomet ?"
" God."
" How do you know this ?"
" Mahomet says so."
"What did Mahomet do to make you credit his
word?"

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 331
"Plenty of things."
"What things?"
" KiUed the infidels, sent us the camel into Africa,
planted for us the date-palm, and worked many won
ders." "Is that ah?"
" No, great many more things I cannot now recollect."
The camel, I think, was introduced into Africa about
the third century. It is a mistake to say, Mahomet did
no miracles. The people in North Africa and The
Desert all relate miracles performed by Mahomet. The
Prophet, however, repudiates miracles in the Koran.
In Surats xiii. and xvii., in answer to miracles demanded,
the Prophet replies by the knock-down argument, " All
miracles are vain. Whom God directs, believes ; whom
he causes to err, errs." Our conversation passed to old
Yousef Bashaw, whose family the Porte has deposed.
Mr. Gagliuffi observed justly, and which so often happens
in despotic countries, "Yousef established Tripoli and
its provinces in one firm united kingdom, and in the
early part of his life his power was respected and his
people happy ; but as the Bashaw declined in life, he
again disorganized everything, and Tripoli was rent in
pieces." Went to visit a member of the Divan. All
these despotic Bashaws consult or prompt a mute
Divan. Let us hope the Consulta lately assembled by
Pius IX. wUl turn out something better than these mute
Divans, or a Buonaparte Senate. We were treated with
coffee, and milk, sour milk (or leben), but not skimmed,
which is considered a great luxury, and only presented
to strangers of consequence.
3rd. — We received a visit from the Bey, as he is some-

332

THE GREAT DESERT.

times called, the commander of the troops, who is a very
sociable kind-hearted little feUow. Mr. Gagliuffi related
some of the atrocities which were committed by the
troops previous to the commander's arrival. They killed
a woman, committed rape on a child, were never sober,
and always quarrelling with the inhabitants. They are
now reduced to discipline and order. One day Mo
hammed Effendi said to Mr. GagUuffi, " I am always at
work, either making improvements in the town or exer
cising the troops, but who sees me here, no one recog
nizes my conduct in The Desert." The Consul endea
voured to console the desponding officer by observing,
God saw him, and one day would reward him for his
good works. So we see, the Turks are a part of the
human race after all, and could lead on their feUow-
creatures in the way of improvement if their energies
were properly directed. Africa could be greatly benefitted
by the Turks. Even at Mourzuk they are introducing
things which wiU soon be imitated at Bornou. Not
being infidels, the same objection does not exist against
their innovations as against us Christians. Even in the
little matter of gloves I saw an immense difference. The
officers here wear gloves, and nothing is thought of it.
People do not say to them as they have said to me at
Ghat and Ghadames, " You have the devil's hands."
Mohammed Effendi actually went so far as to make this
speech, " I shall go to England one day in order that I
may learn something." The grand occupation of the
Commander now is, the building of a guard-house within
the city. This occupies his attention morning, noon,
and night; and it certainly has a good appearance.
There is not such a natty thing in Tripoli. The officer

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 333
directs all the works, and is assisted occasionaUy by the
friendly counsel of the Consul; so that a wonder of
architecture will at last be reared amidst the crumbling-
down places of this city of hovels.
My Said returned this afternoon, bringing the baggage
from The Wady. Five more slaves of Haj Ibrahim are
sick. His first slave adventure at Ghat is Ukely to turn
out a bad speculation. Read an article or two from
Blackiuood's Magazine, No. CCXXX. The Consul has
got a few stray numbers up The Desert. English politics
read aU stuff in Desert, like what a celebrated man was
accustomed to say of his philosophy after dinner, " It's
all nonsense or worse." So is reading English pohtics
in this part of the world. How soon our tastes and
passions change, with our change of place, and scene,
and skies ! An Englishman married a Malay woman at
Singapore. In six years he lost aU his English, nay,
European feelings, and became as listless and stupid as
the people whose habits and nationality he had sunken
under. Visited this evening the grave of Mr. Ritchie, who
died at Mourzuk on November 20, 1819. He was buried
by Capt. Lyon, his companion in African travel. The
grave is placed about two hundred yards south of the
Moorish burying-ground ; it is raised eight or ten inches
above the level of the soil, and is large, being edged
round with a border of clay and small stones. We were
conducted by old Yousef, who told us the Rais (Capt.
Lyon) chose the site of burial between three smaU
mounds of earth, in order that the grave might be easily
distinguished hereafter. Mr. Gagliuffi had never visited
the grave before my arrival, which I proposed to him as

334

THE GREAT DESERT.

a sacred duty that we owed to our predecessors in African
travel and discovery. ' The Consul promises now to have
the grave repaired and white-washed, and I, on my part,
promise, in the event of my return to the interior, to
carry with me a smaU tombstone, to place over the grave,
with name, date, and epitaph. If there were a thorough
and bond fide Geographical Society in England, this
little attention to the memory of that distinguished man
of science would have been performed long ago. But
our societies are instituted to pay their officers and
secretaries, and not to promote the objects for which
they are ostensibly supported by the pubhc. The Moorish
cemetery close by, is a most melancholy, nay, frightfully
grotesque picture. No white-shining tombs and dome-
topped mausoleums, no dark cypresses waving over them
and contrasting shade with light, which mournfully adorn
the cemeteries of the north coast. AU is the grotesque
refuse of misery ! Here we see sticks of palm-branches
driven down at the head of the graves, which sticks
are driven through old bottles, pitchers, jugs, ostrich
eggs, &c, so that at a distance the burying-ground has
the appearance of a dull, dirty, desolate field of house
hold rubbish, and old crockery-ware. I did not trouble
myself to ask the reason of this trumpery of trumperies,
but I imagine it is to distinguish one grave from another.
The cemetery of Ghadames, where nothing is seen but
stones, if it be a desert-looking place, yet has not this
trumpery appearance. I was glad to see the grave of
Ritchie lying apart from this, though in its infidel isola
tion. There lies our poor countryman, alone in The
Sahara ! But, though without a stone or monument to
mark the desert spot, still it is a memorial of the genius

RESIDENCE AT M0DEZUK. 335
and enterprise of Englishmen for travel and research in
the wildest, remotest regions of the globe. And, for
myself, I would rather lie here, in open desert, than in
the crowded London churchyard, amidst smoke, and filth,
and resurrectionists, the pride and glory of our Cockney-
land. Here, at least, the body rests in purity, the desert
breeze, which sweeps its " dread abode" barer and barer,
is not contaminated with the effluvia of a death-dealing
pestilence; and though the ardent sun of Africa smites
continually the lonely grave, the bones mayhap wUl rest
undisturbed till reunited and refleshed at the loud caU of
the Trump of Doom! unkenneUed, uncoffined by wild
beast, or more ferocious man.

336

CHAPTER XXVI.
RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.
Mr. Gagliuffi's opinion of the Touaricks. — Amazonian White- Wash
ers. — Visit, and take leave of the Bashaw. — Various Anecdotes
related by His Highness. — Safe-conduct given to liberated
Slaves in returning to their Country. — Character of the Tibboos,
and particularly Tibboo Women. — Description of the Oases of
Fezzan. — Leo's Account of these Oases. — Recent History of the
Government of Mourzuk. — The Traitor Mukni. — Life and
Character of Abd-el-Geleel. — The Civil War in Tripoli, and
Usurpation of its Government by the Turks. — The Tyrant
Asker Ali. — Skirmish of Hasan Belazee with the Town of
Omm-Erraneb, and the Oulad Suleiman. — Retreat of the Oulad
Suleiman to Bornou, and their Marauding Character. — My
departure from Mourzuk 'with the Slave-Caravan of Haj Es
snousee. — Establishment of British Consuls in The Great Desert
and Central Africa. — Force of the new Slave-Caravan.
ith. — Feel as weU in health as when I left Tripoli,
though housed in this city of fever. Mr. Gagliuffi has
some ideas about the Touaricks which I have not
acquired in Ghat. He pretends Touaricks are always
afraid of their women, and are obUged to do whatsoever
their wives tell them. The son never wiU go with his
father, but always foUows his mother. His father he
learns to hate the more he loves his mother. The
Consul does not think the Touaricks of Aheer to be so
numerous as represented. The same, indeed, may be
said of aU the kingdoms of Africa. The principal slave
or servant (factotum) of the Sultan of Aheer is now in
Mourzuk, transacting business for his master. The
Bashaw offered to write to the Sultan for me through

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 337
this man. He is called Hiddee, and paid me a visit
this morning. En-Nour, the friend of Kandarka, is
only a Sheikh. Hiddee is the slave whom the Bashaw
has been quizzing so severely about the mighty armies of
his master.
A number of women are now occupied opposite to us
in white-washing or white-claying the Guard-house, this
chef-d'oeuvre of Mourzuk architecture. The women alone
do this work, and as their privilege. There are about
thirty of them so occupied, under the command of a queen
white-washer. They all tremble at the sound of her
Majesty's voice. Sometimes she gives them a crack
over the head with a bowl, to make them look sharp
about them. The white-washers prepare the wash in
the usual way, and then lade it out in small bowls,
throwing a whole bowl at once at the walls, using no
brush, now and then only with their hands rubbing over
a place not wet with the wash. This arises from the
nature of the wash, it being merely a fine brown-white
clay, or a species of pipe-clay. There is no lime in the
oases near : people fetch it from Sockna. For this
reason the Castle is so dirty. There is attendant on the
women a band of Arab musicians, to cheer them on in
their work. Every man who passes by gets a piece of
white-wash clay thrown at him. If it hits him he has
to pay, if not he escapes. On his non-payment, when
so hit, he is tabooed from the privUeges which he
possesses in and over women. He can have no com
munication with them, nor can he buy anything
from them, or receive anything from their hands. If he
does not pay in a few days, his fine increases with hia
delay. This custom prevails, and its stipulations are
VOL. n. z

338 THE GREAT DESERT.
most religiously binding, whenever women are employed
to white-wash Government houses and establishments.
Once a Targhee received some money, which a woman
thus employed offered to him, to entrap him. Immedi
ately exclaimed the virago, "You cowardly rascal, instead
of giving us money, you take money away from us."
Then a mob of these Amazons followed him to his house,
and, to save himself from being torn and scratched to
pieces by the troop, he paid ten dollars, and was happy
to escape so easUy. The Amazonian white-washers Uke
to have a shy at Mr. Gagliuffi or the Doctor, because
they are down upon them for a good mulct or present.
To save their respective dignities, Consul and Doctor
take care to keep out of that quarter of the town where
the work of the Amazons is going on.
We paid a visit to the Bashaw this afternoon previous
to my departure to-morrow. We had tea and pipes
again as before. His Highness was excessively civil,
and related to me many anecdotes of the people of this
part of the world, of which anecdotes and such chit-chat
he is very fond. This Bashaw is a sort of chronicler of
the Arabian Nights order, with the difference, that what
His Highness relates are generaUy true stories. Mr.
Gagliuffi instructed me in a little of his Desert diplomacy,
and I accordingly observed, "Your ExceUency must
extend the Turkish rule in Sahara, and you ought to
capture Ghat, for that is the centre of commerce in
these parts." This was put forth as a feeler. The
Bashaw deigned the following in reply : — " There was a
boy left with his father, whilst the mother and wife had
gone to a neighbouring viUage on an errand. The boy,
after a sleep of three hours, awoke, and, looking about
him and not seeing his mother, began to cry for her.

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 339
' Oh,' said the father, ' you have begun to cry for your
mother after three minutes, you blubbering urchin;
whilst I have been waiting for my wife, with the most
enduring patience, these three long hours." — " So it is
with me," continued the Bashaw ; " you are crying for
Ghat after three months' residence here, and I have been
crying for Ghat these three long years. I have been
waiting every year, every month and day in the year,
to go and take it, or destroy it, but the Sultan sends me
no orders." I noticed the Fullan boy of the Bashaw,
and observed to him that I had seen very few of the
Fullan slaves. The Bashaw returned, "That boy is gold
to me. When I was sick, he was the only one who
waited upon me unceasingly, and never left my couch.
I have also a Fullan girl; her hair is as long as your
women's, and reaches down to her waist." Mr. Gagliuffi
afterwards told me His Highness had been some while
choosing a wife, that is, a substitute for his wife who is
in Tripoli, and had at last found what he liked in this
Fullan girl, of whose beauty and grace he said the
Bashaw boasted to him (the Consul), a thing quite unusual
amongst Mohammedans. The features of this FuUan
boy were very regular, black eyes and a light olive com
plexion. Such were Fullan slaves of our caravan ; and
the most recherchee of all the females, fetching the
highest price, was a Fullanah girl.
His Highness related several anecdotes of the
Soudanese people. Slaves are told, on leaving Soudan,
that white people wUl kUl them and eat them ; but when
they get here, and see themselves kindly treated, they
become reconciled to slavery. In some of the Nigritian
countries, when the people get old, — say seventy or
z 2

340 THE GREAT DESERT.
eighty years of age, — their relatives and friends say to
them, " Come, now you are very old, and are of no use
in the world: it is better for you to go away to your
fathers and to the gods. There you will be young
again, eat and drink as weU as ever, and be as beautiful
and as strong as you ever were or can be. You will
renew your young days like the young birds, and the
young lions." "Very well," reply the aged decrepid
creatures, " we will go." They then dress up their aged
worn-out victim in his fine clothing, and make a feast.
When in the midst of drums and horrible screams,
during the height of the feast, they lay hold of the old
man, and throw him into a large fire, and he is imme
diately consumed to ashes. The Bashaw did not par
ticularize the country, but this barbarous rite has been
witnessed in other parts of the world besides Africa.
The inhabitants of Wadai are a nation of drunkards.
They can do nothing unless drunk. Amongst these people,
the greatest mark of friendship is to present their friends
with raw meat, with the bile of the Uver poured on it as
sauce or gravy. Wadai is in the neighbourhood of Upper
Egypt and Abyssinia, and the tale reminds one of
Bruce, and the live-meat eating Abyssinians. A Tibboo
chief came to Mourzuk, and presented himself without
introduction before His Highness, and thus harangued
him : — " Oh Bey ! I want to write to my son, the Bashaw
of TripoU. You must send my letter to my son.''
" Give it to me," said His Highness, most condescend
ingly. "There it is," cried the Tibboo, and flung it
down at the feet of the Governor. The letter being
opened, the contents ran thus : — " Son, be a good man,
fear me and fear God. If you behave well, and acknow-

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 341
ledge me as your father, I will send you three slaves and
come and see you." The Tibboo was allowed to depart
from the Governor as a madman.
" See," said the Bashaw to me, " how ignorant and
presumptuous are these Tibboo people."
I replied, "It was always so that ignorance and pride
went together, and it always will be so."
His Highness. — " Are your people so ?"
" Of course, all the world is so."
The Bashaw now came to the Touaricks. " The Tou
aricks detest cities. When they visit us, we cannot
make them sleep within the walls." I observed, they
have not confidence in the people of the towns they visit.
The Bashaw thought that was a hit at him, and so it
was, for the Touaricks sleep within the waUs of their
own cities, and even inside Ghadames. I occupied a
house which they had tenanted just before my arrival.
Therefore His Highness jumped from the Touaricks to
the Ghadamseeah : — " The Ghadamsee people are a na
tion of Jews. I once had to escort them. One morn
ing when I got up I found them all in separate groups,
for they detest each other's society. (The Bashaw
might have observed the separation of the two hereditary
factions.) They were all in disorder. I got a whip
and laid it on them one after another, as they whip their
slaves. The next morning they were all ready to start
before I was. This is the way to treat these Jews.
The curse of God is upon them. When they die nothing
is found in their houses, nor gold, silver, money, or
goods, not even victuals. God punishes them thus be
cause they are a nation of Jews and slave-dealers."
Belazee forgets that his government is partly supported

342 THE GREAT DESERT.
by the slave-traffic. But the Bashaw is a man of great
audacity, takes large views of things, assumes the air
of lavish and magnificent pretensions, and hates the
quiet, thrifty, and money-making character of the mer
chants of Ghadames. The Bashaw concluded his long
string of anecdotes by asking me, on my return, to bring
him a watch, but not to bring it if I did not intend to
charge him for it, for he could not accept presents from
me, since he had a fixed salary from the Sultan. He
added, " I'm sorry you have not brought a letter from the
Bashaw of Tripoli, for I can't show you the attention I
would wish. But bring a letter when you return, and
I'U write to aU the princes of Africa for you/' I an
swered, " Oh, I'll bring you a firman from the Porte, if
that will do for you." At which His Highness laughed
heartily. Whatever ferocity of disposition Hasan Belazee may
have shown in the decapitation of Abd-El-Geleeh, he
certainly knows how to be polite and show hospitahty to
strangers. The British Consul-General tried to get him
removed from Mourzuk, with the tyrant, Asker Ali, from
TripoU, but Belazee was the only man who could keep
this province tranquil, and the trade with the coast unin
terrupted. Mr. Gagliuffi tells me, as a proof of the Ba
shaw's influence in the interior, that His Highness wrote
to the Touaricks of Aheer and Ghat to aUow Uberated
slaves to return unmolested to their country, as an act
acceptable to God, seeing the poor slaves had been Ube
rated by their pious Mussulman masters, who invoked
upon them the blessing of the Almighty on the day of
their liberation. And it is said, that, in no case when a
freed slave took a letter from the Bashaw, did the slave

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 343
fail to reach his native country. How different this
Desert morality to that of the viUanous Americans, who
glory in recapturing freed slaves, or hanging them up by
Lynch Law — and those poor men have bought their free
dom by the sweat of their brow! The Bashaw is also
strong amongst the Tibboos, who are generaUy an immoral
race of Africans. These Tibboos attacked a merchant of
Tripoli and plundered him near their country. His
Highness immediately clapped aU the Tibboos then at
Mourzuk in prison, until the merchant's goods were
restored, and he himself brought safe to Mourzuk. Since
this strong measure, the Tibboos have plundered no more
TripoUne merchants.
Mr. Gagliuffi pointed out several Tibboos to me in the
town, and amongst the rest one who called himself a
Sultan. This chief came the other day to the Consul
and thus addressed him : —
" My wife is coming here. I'm so glad. She is such
a good wife. Oh, so good !"
" Why is she a good wife ?" inquired the Consul.
" Oh, she has kUled two women ; first the daughter,
then the mother ; wretches who wanted to kUl her.
Isn't that a good wife ?"
The Tibboo women secrete knives about them, as the
Italian and Spanish ladies conceal the stUetto in their
garters. It does not come within my province to de
scribe the Tibboos, but I may say briefly of the social
condition of those tribes, in that country it is "Man
and his Mistress," and not " Woman and her Master."
The Tibboo ladies do not even allow a husband to enter
his own home without sending word previously to an
nounce himself. A Tibboo lady once explained this mat-

344 THE GREAT DESERT.
ter in Mourzuk. " Why," said the Tibbooess, " should I
not have two or three husbands, as well as my husband
two or three wives? Are not we women as good as
men ? Of course, I don't wish my husband to surprise
me enjoying myself with my lovers." It is a notorious
fact, that when the salt caravans go from Aheer to
BUma, the whole viUages are cleared of the men, the
Tibboo men escaping to the neighbouring mountains with
provisions for a month. In the meanwhile, the Tibboo
women and the strangers are left to themselves. The
women transact all the trade of salt, and manage alone
their household affairs. The Tibboo women, indeed, are
everything, and their men nothing — icUing and lounging
away their time, and kicked about by their wives as so
many useless drones of society. The women maintain
the men as a race of staUions, and not from any love for
them ; but to preserve the Tibboo nation from extinction.
A brief description of the oases of Fezzan may be
given, beginning with Mourzuk, (cjjjjy-o). The capital
is placed in 25° 54' N. Lat., and 14° 12' E. of Greenwich.
It is a waUed city, contained within the circumference
of about three miles, having a population of about 3,500
souls. The area of the site was reduced to a third, on
the south side, by Abd-El-Geleel, for the convenience of
defence, when he held it against the Turks. On the
west, is the 'Castle of the Bashaw, forming a separate
division or quarter from the town. The Castle, which
consists of many buildings and court-yards, contains the
barracks. The town is formed of one large broad street
opening into a spacious square before the Castle and
several smaUer narrower streets. Since the occupation
of the Turks, many improvements have been made A

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 345
new mosque has been built, and a guard-house is being
finished for the troops in town. Two or three coffee
houses and new shops have been fitted up, and the pro
gress of building improvements continues. Mourzuk has
three gates. The houses are mostly built of sun-dried
bricks, cemented with mud, very little stone and no lime
being found in the environs. Altogether it is a clean
place, for an interior African city. The suburbs already
have been noticed, where in the gardens wheat, barley,
ghusub, ghafouly, the flax plant, common vegetables and
flowers, a few roses and jessamines, are cultivated, with
the noble date-palm overshadowing all. Every garden
has its weU, or wells. Sweet water is scarce. The
spring crops are six weeks in advance of those in Tripoli.
The Bashaw, on my taking leave of His Highness, presented
me with a handful of ripe barley to bring to Tripoli, as a
rarity. One bushel or measure of seed-corn produces from
twenty-four to twenty-eight bushels. A greater quantity
of corn could be easily produced in aU the oases. A
man and boy with an ass can cultivate corn enough in
a season to subsist three or four families during six
months. There are two seasons and two crops. But
the gardens near the city offer no features of beautiful
vegetation. At a distance there are much finer speci
mens of Saharan cultivation.
The government of Mourzuk consists of a Bashaw,
ostensibly assisted by a Divan of six persons, to whom is
joined the Kady. Besides a Kady in this city, there are
four Kadys in the rest of the province. The garrison
consists of five hundred and fifty men and boys, about
one-third only of whom are Turks, the rest being Arabs
and Moors. Of the whole force, one hundred and fifty are

346 THE GREAT DESERT.
cavalry. There is besides an irregular corps of a hun
dred Arab horse. The superior officers, including the
commander-in-chief, are all Turks. The medical officer
is a Greek. The Porte has very few Turkish doctors.
The medical officer at Tripoli was the late Dickson, an
Englishman. This inconsiderable force is sufficient to
maintain aU the oases in tranquillity, and defend them
from the hostile tribes.
The commerce of Mourzuk is at a low ebb on account
of the rival Touarick city of Ghat, and especially from
the disturbed state of the Bornou route during the last
few years. However, there are caravans between Cairo
and Mourzuk, which never frequent TripoU. Many
British and Levant goods come by this route, which are
not brought by the ordinary route from Tripoli.
Saharan merchants divide Central Africa or Nigritia,
into three divisions, according to the marts and routes of
the interior commerce, viz. : Bornou, with which Mourzuk
has the most direct relations; Soudan, or Bur-el- Abeed,
("Land of Slaves"), with which Ghat and Ghadames
have direct and most frequent communications; and,
finally, Timbuctoo, with which Ghat and Ghadames have
likewise always relations. But Morocco is the country in
North Africa which has the most constant relations with
Timbuctoo; so much so, that in past times, the Em
perors pretended to exercise sovereignty over this mys
terious city of the Tbanks of the Niger.
As before mentioned, Mourzuk is not healthy*. The
* Our former tourists say: — "The opinion of everybody, Arabs,
Tripolines, and our predecessors (Mr. Ritchie and Captain Lyon),
were unanimous as to the insalubrity of its air." And " Every
one of us, some in a greater or less degree, had been seriously dis-

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 347
Greek doctor calls the fever " febre terziane" (Ital.), ap
parently the ordinary intermittent fever, or perhaps the
tertian ague, with local peculiarities. It usually begins
in April and continues all summer. It recommences in
October, and persons attacked in this month are sick
during the whole of the month. About two per cent.
die if they have medical assistance, but, without this
assistance, a great number die. After it, comes the bile,
" gastrica bigliosa." (Ital.) This disease has also fatal
consequences. The simple fever is often accompanied,
when it presents itself, with worms ; it then changes to
intermittent fever, and if it does not, is usuaUy fatal.
Persons not cured of the fever often become dropsical.
There are a few cases of consumption. Syphilis is very
virulent, and prevails amongst the troops. Ophthalmia
and rheumatism are common complaints. Thus Mourzuk
is not quite one of those oases, or Hesperian gardens,
where the happy residents quaff the elixir of immortal
health and virtue. Contrarily, it is a sink of vice and
disease within, and a sere foliage of palms and vegetation
without, overhung with an ever forbidding sky, of dull
red haziness.
The Turkish system of laxity of morals, [as exhibited
in all then' garrison towns, has fuU force, free course,
and scope in Mourzuk, beginning as an example with
His Highness the Bashaw, and descending to the lowest
soldiers. Yet they say, it was infinitely worse before
the present commanding officer had charge of the troops.
ordered; and amongst the inhabitants themselves, anything like a
healthy-looking person was a rarity." Denham observes also, that
to account for the sickliness of Mourzuk was a very difficult mat
ter, and required a wiser head than his.

348 THE GREAT DESERT.
The officers have no legitimate wives, nor, of course the
privates. The women of Mourzuk are therefore neces
sarily of bold aspect and depraved manners. All the
lower classes of females are usually unveiled, and will
commit acts of immodesty anywhere. In general these
women are constantly being divorced and taking new
husbands. In such a depraved state of society, love and
affection are consequently unknown,
Here never — " Love his gold shafts employs;"
Never here — " Waves his purple wings."
Mr. Gagliuffi thought one of the greatest obstacles to
the suppression of the slave-trade was the facility which
it afforded Moorish and Arab merchants to indulge in
sensual amours. Although a merchant would get no
profit by his long and dreary journeys over Desert, he
would still carry it on for the sake of indulging in the
lower passions of his nature. A slave dealer will convey
a score or two of female slaves from Mourzuk to Tripoli,
and change the unhappy objects of his brutal lust every
night. This is, he considers, the summum bonum of
human existence, and to obtain it, he wiU continue this
nefarious trade, without the smallest gain, or prospect of
gain, and die a beggar when his vile passions become ex
tinct. " What is life without a slave?" says The Desert
voluptuary. "Better to die than have no slaves !" But
there are exceptions. A young lad is placed by his
uncle, who Uves in Tripoli, under the care of the Consul.
His uncle wrote to the Consul, " To teU the lad, to send
no more slaves to Tripoli, to abandon the traffic alto-

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 349
gether," adding, in his letter, " In future, God deliver
us from this shameful traffic !" But the Consul pre
viously had written to the uncle that he would not take
the boy under his care if he trafficked in slaves. Not
withstanding all this, some few Saharan merchants there
are who really detest this traffic, and its attendant immo
ralities. Such I have found in my later peregrinations
through North Africa.
Fezzan, as vulgarly computed, is said to contain one
hundred and one towns and villages, or inhabited oases.
The districts are, 1st. Mourzuk, the capital; 2nd. East
side, including Hofrah, Shargheeah, and Foghah; 3rd.
North side, Sebhah, Bounanees, Jofrah, and Shaty ; 4th.
West side, Wady Sharghee, Wady Ghurby, and Wady
Atbah ; 5th. South side, Ghatroun. This division
embraces twelve principal towns, where there are resident
Kaeds. All the lesser towns have their subordinate
Kaeds or Sheikhs. It will be seen that Sockna is not
included in this enumeration, and it is not usually con
sidered a part of the government of Fezzan. Of the
rest, and aU the towns, Zuela is the more interesting for
its antiquities. Formerly the capital, as weU as Germa,
it was colonized by the Romans. Zuela contains some
ancient inscriptions, and not long ago two store-rooms
were discovered, full of indigo, supposed to have been a
portion of the ancient commerce of the interior. Zuela
is the principal town of the division of Shargheeah, or
The East.
To the natural productions of Fezzan, already enume
rated, may be added, the Trona"", or "Sal Natrone" of
* Trona, ,. «JJ1j and ^J^j " Carbonate of Soda.'' The great
Trona lake is near Germa or Garama.

350 THE GREAT DESERT.
TripoUne merchants. It is procured from the bottom of
the lakes when the water evaporates during the summer
season. Besides its use of being masticated in Barbary,
it is exported to Europe in considerable quantities, for
the manufacture of glass. A little gum-arabic is pro
cured hereabouts, and the quantity is increasing.
Leo Africanus gives the foUowing account of these
oases, which, joining those of the Tibboos, connect .
almost in a straight line Northern with Central Africa : —
"Fezzen e similmente una grande abitazione, nella
quale sono di grossi castelli e di gran casali, tutti abitati
da un ricco popolo si di possessioni, come di danari ;
perciocche sono ne' confini di Agadez e del diserto di
Libia che confina con lo Egitto : ed e discosto dal Cairo
circa a sessanta giornate : ne pel diserto altra abitazione
si truova, che Augela che' e nel diserto di Libia. Fez
zen e dominata da un signore che e come primario del
popolo, il quale tutta la rendita del paese dispensa nel
comun beneficio, pagando certo tributo a' vicini Arabi.
Similmente in cotal paese e molta penuria di pane e di
carne ; e si mangia came di camello, la quale e tuttavia
carissima." — (Sixth Part, chap. Liii.)
Formerly Fezzan was exceedingly rich and populous,
but now it is become impoverished to the last degree,
and many of its largest district populations are reduced
to the starvation-point. Its inhabited oases would pro
duce an infinitely greater amount of the materials of
existence, if moderately cultivated, whilst many oases,
once smiling paradisal spots in Desert, are altogether
abandoned. The few merchants who have any money
are those of Sockna, but which town, as before men
tioned, does not properly belong to Fezzan, thouo-h its

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 351
relations with these oases are intimate. Before the
Turks and Abd-El-Geleel, Fezzan was governed by its
own native Sultans, whose family was of the Shereefs of
Morocco. But about thirty years ago one Mukhanee, or
Mukni4''', as he is commonly caUed, entered into conspiracy
with the Bashaw of Tripoli to seize the government of the
native princes, who were thus deposed, and the usurped
government continued in the hands of the Bashaw and his
creatures, untU it was seized in turn by the brave and
enterprising Arab chieftain, Abd-El-Geleel. The im
mediate ancestors of this Sheikh were destroyed by old
Yousef Bashaw, amongst whom Saif Nasser, grandfather
of the Sheikh, and the head of the Oulad Suleiman, was
a celebrated warrior. These chiefs and their tribes
occupied the shores of the Syrtis (Sert o^-), and were
originally from Morocco. They might claim some con
nexion with the deposed Shereefian government. When
all his ancestors, and especially his grandfather, Saif-
Nasser, were butchered by the exterminating policy of
Yousef Bashaw, Abd-El-Geleel, then a boy, was saved, — as
an instrument of future vengeance in the hands of Provi
dence — by the secret interference of the women of the
Bashaw's family. As the boy, however, grew up, he could
not fail to excite the suspicions of the Bashaw, for the old
hoary-headed assassin saw in him, not darkly or dimly,
the sword which was being drawn by avenging Heaven to
cut off his family root and branch, perhaps his own
head, and break up for ever his blood-cemented king
dom. These suspicions of a guilty conscience came at
length to such a pitch, that the day arrived when the

^

352 THE GREAT DESERT.
innocent youth was to be strangled, so snatching vio
lently away the instrument of vengeance from the hands
of inexorable justice! But, on that very day, the
Bashaw received intelligence of a threatened invasion from
Mehemet Ali, and old Yousef knew this aspiring young
warrior to be the only man who could unite the scattered
and disaffected tribes of the Syrtis, and repel the in
vasion. Abd-El-Geleel was therefore forthwith dis
patched to muster the Arabs, and make all things ready
to meet the invading enemy. However, the alarms of
invasion soon died away, and the young Sheikh was sent
up to the province of Fezzan to quell some insurrection
of the Arabs.
But finding himself surrounded continuaUy with sus
picious agents and cut-throat spies, who might in a
moment compass his assassination, whilst the Arabs en
route were ripe for revolt, the wary Sheikh at once
raised the standard of rebellion, and took possession,
successively, of the town of Benioleed, the mountainous
district of Gharian, the Syrtis, and the province of
Fezzan, aU which he held nine years with the style and
power of a Sultan. Then the day of his fate also began
to hasten on. The old Bashaw's family, polluted with
the most cruel and odious crimes, fell by its own intes
tine divisions, ending in a civil war, which war was
closed by the usurpation of the Turks. Abd-El-Geleel
was now called upon to submit to the Sultan of Con
stantinople, a new and a more formidable master. The
Sheikh refused submission, and declared and carried on
war with the Turks. At length, however, his intrepid
brother, Saif Nasser, was killed in battle, and the Sultan-
Sheikh became dispirited, lost his courage and presence

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 353
of mind. Abd-El-Geleel madly surrendered himself, at
the instigation of his own Sheikhs, who betrayed him to
the Turks, and Belazee, the present Bashaw of Fezzan,
who commanded the troops against him, on hearing of
his voluntary surrender, sent word that the Arab prince
was not to be brought alive into the camp. He was
then instantly decapitated ! This cruel assassination
took place in 1842. The whole of the usurped districts
held by the prince, now returned to the power of the
Turks. Asker AU, the blood-thirsty tyrant then governing
Tripoli, on hearing of this intelligence was drunk with
joy. His insolence to the British Consul-General knew
no bounds. The tyrant even boasted openly, that God
would give into his hands his two other enemies, the
British Consul-General, and the Vice-Consul of Mourzuk \
The tyrant was fond of dipping in astrology and reading
fate, and he was once surprised by his ministers, reading
the certain destruction of these last two of his remaining
enemies in a small portion of sand. The consequence of
all this open violence naturally was his instant re-
cal, Sir Stratford Canning threatening the Porte that,
if it delayed his recal more than one hour, a British
squadron would depose the tyrant, and replace him by
another Bashaw. The ancient Bey of Bengazi, an exile
in Malta, and one of the Caramanly family, or of the
old Moorish dynasty of Bashaws, would have replaced
Asker Ali. This tyrant, like all tyrants, on receiving his
recal, was unmanned, and became weaker than a chUd,
for the performance of acts of the darkest cruelty and
the most arrant cowardice, are quite compatible. The
tyrant Asker Ali shed tears ! on leaving the country, where
VOL. II. 2 A

354 THE GREAT DESERT.
he had exercised the most atrocious cruelties. However,
he was fated to execute one act of justice, in the style of
the Turk, against the betrayers of Abd-El-Geleel; for
the tyrant strangled all the subordinate Arab chieftains
who had conspired against their master, and delivered
him into the hands of the Turks, — the just vengeance of
heaven against traitors. Asker Ali returned to Con
stantinople, and as is the custom now-a-days, the Porte,
imitating the recent poUcy of the French Government,
which Government, whenever it disavows its agents,
decorates them as a matter of course, — so that to be, or
get decorated, is to do something contrary to interna
tional law and justice, — foUowing such a good and honest
maxim, such a discovery in the science of diplomacy, I
repeat, the Porte, in its sympathy, immediately con
ferred on the tyrant a new Pashalic. Thence, after a
short time, Asker Ali continuing his horrible trade of
official murder, consulting his book of fate and atoms of
sand, and hanging up the good subjects of the Porte
" without judge or jury," got again recalled ; and I have
not heard more of this miscreant Pasha. Asker AU
is a bright jewel of native Ottoman ferocity.
The Chief Abd-El-Geleel figures in the Slave-Trade
Reports of Tripoli, 1843, as an abolitionist. But,
according to M. Subtil, he was only bamboozling Col.
Warrington*. This SubtU also pretends the chieftain
was more inclined to French than English interests.
Such a statement is probably a calumny of the sulphur-
exploring adventurer in Tripoli, and was made to get
himself popularity in France, or to help his schemes of
* See " Histoire d'Abd-el-Geleel, Sultan de Fezzan assassine en
1842." Revue de UOrient, Sept., 1844.

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 355
Tripoli speculations. At any rate, it rests solely upon
his very dubious authority. The Arab prince lost all by
attempting too much. He reversed the maxim of
" attempt much, and you will get a little." An arrange
ment was offered to the Sheikh, by which, on paying a
contribution of 25,000 dollars per annum, and acknow
ledging the sovereignty of the Grand Signior, the usurped
districts should be confirmed to him, and hereditarily to
his family. But, like the ten thousand military chief
tains, soldiers of fortune, who have gone before him,
whose faith saw their star always in the ascendant, he
sighed for Tripoli, and its Bashaw's Castle, and lost all.
The son of Abd-el-Geleel, on the assassination of his
father, took the advice of Col. Warrington, and emi
grated to Bornou, whose Sultan being of Arab extrac
tion, received the emigrant hospitably as a brother, and
assigned the unfortunate prince and his scattered fol
lowers, a district on the confines of Bornou, between the
Tibboos and his own empire. Since then, the exile
prince has received a great accession of strength by
a numerous reinforcement of the Oulad Suleiman, and is
now strong enough himself to defend his newly acquired
territory, should the Sultan of Bornou at any time be
won over by the intrigues of the Turks, to cancel his
concession of lands and attempt to expel the refugees.
This movement of the Oulad Suleiman is connected with
the further military exploits of Hasan Belazee.
About a twelvemonth ago, the inhabitants of the
village of Omm-Erraneb (" mother of hares"), took it
into their heads to revolt, and upon some frivolous pre
text seized their neighbours' camels, as an intimation to
the Bashaw of their seditious intentions. It is certain,
2 A 2

356 THE GREAT DESERT.
however, from what followed in the course of events,
that their revolt was concerted with the Oulad Suleiman.
The viUagers of Omm-Erraneb had not the shadow of
excuse for their revolt, for they paid no contributions to
the Bashaw, and merely acknowledged the Porte. This
town is waUed and consists of about two hundred houses,
and at the time of the war had a population of some
eight hundred souls, entirely Arab, but of the people only
three hundred were armed. The Bashaw of Fezzan went
out himself against the rebels, although extremely unwell,
captured their city, and destroyed about one hundred
and twenty of them. The Arab townsmen fought from
house to house with the most determined bravery, obsti
nately retiring through their town from one gate to the
other. The Bashaw would have slaughtered more of
them, but he had no men to intercept their egress at the
opposite gate of the town. His Highness lost only eight
Turks and eight Arabs in the capture of this place. On
the next day, to the astonishment of aU, about six hun
dred of the Oulad Suleiman came up from the Syrtis, all
fully armed, having left their famUies some two days'
distance. The first thing they did was to capture a
convoy of sick and wounded, in charge of the Greek
Doctor, all of whom they immediately butchered in cold
blood, with the one exception of the Doctor.
The account which the Doctor gives of his capture and
escape is sufficiently characteristic.
The Assailant. — "May your father and mother be
cursed, and your wife prostituted, you dog of a Turk!"
(raising the sword to strike him).
The Supplicant. — " Oh ! have mercy upon me, I'm a
doctor," (falling on his knees).

RESIDENCE AT M0UR2UK. 357
Aii Arab, aside. — " Strike ! strike ! he lies."
The Assailant.— "May all your children beg their
bread, and the curse of God be upon them !" (seizing
him by the turban to cut off his head).
The Supplicant. — " Oh ! have mercy upon me, I'm the
brother of the English Consul at Mourzuk, your friend."
The Arab, aside. — "Hold! hold! let him go."
But the Doctor did not get off until he had emptied
his pockets of his dollars. In this way only he rendered
his supplications effectual.
In warfare, both Turks and Greeks have been in the
habit of taking what money they possess with them, to
redeem them from slavery if captured, or for any other
avaUable purpose in the case of defeat*. The Oulad
Suleiman then attacked the Bashaw with extreme fero
city, and His Highness was in great danger. He was so
unweU at the time that he could not sit upon his horse.
But, when the troops began to waver, the officers took
the Bashaw and set him upon his horse to show him to
the soldiers. The sight of the veteran commander rallied
their sinking courage. His Highness had just strength
enough to hold up his sword and point to the enemy, on
seeing which his troops rushed on impetuously, and
obtained a complete victory over the Arabs. The Arabs
were, however, only dispersed a moment, and were
allowed to reunite their scattered bands and pursue
tranquUly their way to Bornou, to the prince of their
tribe. AU the fugitives of the Omm-Erraneb accom
panied them. On their march up, they ruthlessly sacked
all the villages of Fezzan and the Tibboos, and arrived
* The Doetor afterwards recovered his money, the Arab who cap
tured him having fallen in the skirmish.

358 THE GREAT DESERT.
at the quarters of their compatriots laden with booty.
The Bashaw returned weary and exhausted, having no
sufficient force to foUow up the pursuit of the Oulad
Suleiman, whose march was that of conquerors rather
than fugitives. Indeed, the Bashaw was glad enough of
their retreat to Bornou. Whilst this fighting was going
on, the greatest confusion reigned at Mourzuk, and many
of the wealthy inhabitants deposited their money and
valuables in the house of the English Consul, for to add
to their miseries, some malicious persons had reported
the capture of the Bashaw, with aU his army. It is
probable the Turks are exceedingly weU satisfied with
the emigration of these restless and indomitable Oulad
Suleiman. There cannot be a doubt of their being
devoted to the English, but they are of difficult treat
ment for us. At the present time, they are dispersed in
marauding parties on the route of Bornou, and were
even an English tourist to fall into their hands, he might
be maltreated before he was recognized as a British sub
ject, and as such received the protection of their prince.
This was the main difficulty which prevented my going
up to Bornou.
It would seem, however, the Oulad Suleiman are
getting tired of the burning climate and fevers of
Bornou, and are sighing for the cool airs and healthy
breezes of the shores of Syrtis, with the refreshing sight
of the dark-blue waters of the Mediterranean. For on
my return to Tripoli, I found the British Consul in
negotiation with the Bashaw to procure their return to
the Syrtis : of which since I have heard nothing. The
Bashaw told the Consul they must write to the Sultan
for pardon. The negotiation was placed in the hands

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 359
of Mr. Gagliuffi, of whom they are passionately fond,
and in whom they have the most implicit confidence.
These malcontent Arabs were, of course, on friendly
terms with the Touaricks of Ghat, as every attempt to
resist the consoUdation of the power of the Porte in
TripoU is viewed favourably by the Touaricks. But the
marauding of the Oulad Suleiman in the interior, and
the interruption of the commerce of Bornou, UI re
quite the asylum and hospitahty afforded them by its
Sultan, and for the sake of the commerce of The Sa
hara, the sooner they are back again to the Syrtis the
better. 5th. — Rose early to write and prepare for my depar
ture to TripoU. CaUed on the Turkish officers to take
leave. One and all observed, " Before you were going
to h  , now you are going to heaven," alluding to my
projected tour to Soudan. I was not of this opinion;
for, after months and months in my dreams, night-dreams
and waking-dreams, having acted over in my imagina
tion aU the dangers and privations of The Desert, and
seen aU the wonders of the mysterious regions of
Nigritia, I set about my departure from Mourzuk with a
heavy heart, lamenting my Ul-starred luck and faUure,
seeing my mission abruptly cut off midway in its accom
plishment. Mr. Gagliuffi arranged for my returning to
Tripoli with the slave-caravan of Haj Essnousee, whom
the reader wiU be pleased not to confound with my
friend Essnousee of Ghadames, who had gone on to
Soudan with the return caravan. Haj Essnousee had
accompanying him two or three other traders, all of
whom were natives of Sockna. Their slaves had not

360 THE GREAT DESERT.
come from Ghat, but had been brought three months
ago by the Tibboos from Bornou.
I left Mourzuk late in the afternoon. I had heard
the melancholy song of the slaves departing in the
morning. I had now to overtake them this evening.
Mr. Gagliuffi and the Doctor accompanied me outside
the gates, and the Consul's Moorish servant conducted
me to the first night's encampment, both of us riding
horses. I do not regret turning off the direct route to
Tripoli, and visiting Mourzuk before my return. For
here I obtained a better idea of the Upper Provinces of
Tripoli, and I am greatly indebted to the Vice-Consul for
his assistance in my researches. I must acknowledge
likewise the kind attentions of the Doctor and the
Turkish officers. I bade Mr. Gagliuffi an affectionate
fareweU, who answered with the plain earnest old
English of " God bless you!" I left the Consul in but
indifferent health. Three times has he had the fever,
yet he is determined to keep up to the last. When Mr.
GagUuffi first went to Mourzuk, he expected that Abd-
El-Geleel, whose agent he was, as well as having the
appointment of British Vice-Consul, would have been
confirmed in his authority. But this Chiefs assassination
left the Consul to struggle against formidable difficulties,
and Mr. Gagliuffi was obliged to apply to the British
Government for pecuniary assistance, which has been
tardily granted.
The appointment of Mr. Gagliuffi has fuUy answered
all the objects origmaUy projected. The traffic in slaves
is well watched on this route, and reported upon. The
Vice-Consul exercises a beneficial influence on the

RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. 361
affairs of Mourzuk, and is useful both to the governing
power and the governed. The population of Fezzan have
great faith in the integrity of Mr. Gagliuffi as agent of the
British Government. The Consul assists them in various
ways. Some twenty months ago he lent the people of
Mourzuk money to meet the tribute demanded from
them by the Government of Tripoli. His relations with
Bornou have already been mentioned. The Vizier of
the Sheikh lately, on his return from a pilgrimage to
Mecca, stopped at the Consul's house, and Mr. Gagliuffi
transacted all his business. Most strangers go to the
Consul, in preference to the Ottoman authorities, or the
people of the town. A great Maroquine Marabout
came this way from Mecca, and deposited all his money,
whilst in Mourzuk, in the hands of the Consul. The
people were jealous that a Marabout should trust a
Christian in preference to themselves, and remonstrated
with the Marabout, who very drily replied to them,
" You are not of the Faithful : you are all robbers. I
am obliged to trust this Christian."
Unquestionably the establishment of English Consuls
and Vice-Consuls throughout The Desert, and aU the
great cities of the Interior of Africa, would be an im
mense benefit to humanity, whilst it would equally
promote British trade and interests, and the commerce
of the entire world. One day, in happier times, there may
be a Minister wise enough and bold enough to under
take this great enterprize, and to make this application
of our resources, which eventually would be no sacrifice,
for the benefit of all mankind. It wiU, however, require
sacrifices from individuals as weU as from Government,
for a residence in The Desert or Central Africa is no

362 THE GREAT DESERT.
consular retreat, or diplomatic lounge for an invalid
Minister. But if any sacrifice be made for foreign nations
and countries, it surely should be made for Africa, on
whose unhappy chUdren we as a nation, in past times,
have inflicted such enormous wrongs.
I shall only give one instance of the positive and
material benefit which the people of Fezzan have derived
from the establishment of the British Consul at Mourzuk.
Mr. Gagliuffi induced the people to cultivate the tholh
for collecting gums. Fifty cantars were collected the
first year, and last year some two hundred. The whole
of the population are now seized with a fit of gum-
coUecting, but they are not yet expert at making the
incisions in the trees. In the course of time it will be
a most profitable article of export for the people. This
gum now sells for 10 or 12 mahboubs the cantar in
TripoU. Such has been entirely the " good work" of the
English Consul.
We stopped at one of Mr. GagUuffi's gardens to get
some sweet water. This was a very nice plantation of
palms overshadowing crops of corn. The Consul has
several of these gardens, but aU of a Umited size.
After sunset, we found the encampment at Terzah. It
consisted of three merchants and their servants, about
sixty slaves, most of whom were young women and girls,
and twelve camels. Felt cold during the night — in fact
caught cold, and not very weU. Ought to have a tent.
Said very happy in the prospect of returning to Tripoli,
and as usual immediately made friends amongst the male
and female slaves.

363

CHAPTER XXVII.
FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.
Well of Esh-Shour. — Village of Dillaim. — Tying up a Female
Slave to the Camel. — Village of Gudwah. — Well of Bel-Kashee
Faree. — Melancholy Songs of the Slaves. — Reflections on the
Slave Trade; Christian Republicans, and the Scottish Free
Kirk.— Well of Mukni.— El-Bab.— She-Camels with Foals.—
How American Consuls justify Slavery. — Arrival at Sebhah,
and description of the People. — Cruelty of a Moorish Boy to
the young Female Slaves. — Prohibited Food in matters of Reli
gion. — The Taste of a Locust. — Anecdotes related by the Ba
shaw of Mourzuk and Mr. Gagliuffi. — Divinations of the Tyrant
Asker Ali. — Continual delays. — Altercation with a Moor about
Religion. — The Songs of the Female Slaves interpreted. — Ver
sion of Mr. Whittier, the American Poet. — The Amor Patriot
of the Negroes. — Primitive Style of playing Draughts. — Games
and Wine prohibited by the Koran. — Sebhah, a City of the
Dead. — Oases and extent of the Sebhah district. — Fezzanee
Palms bear Fruit without Water. — Town of Timhanah. — Bad
Odour of the Turks in these Oases. — Essnousee, an atrocious
Slave Driver. — Stroke of a Scorpion.
6th. — Rose early, and made a long day. Passed a
few dwarf wild palms. Country about here is mostly
sandy, and in hollow flats. Encamped by the weU of
Esh-Shour. Our course east and north-east. We passed
by the small village of DiUaim. One of the Moors tra
velling with us said to me, " Oh, master, how could you
think of going to Soudan! How you would have
suffered!" I returned, "No noble enterprizes are
achieved without great mental and bodUy suffering." This
remark impressed him in my favour, and we continued
great friends aU the route to Tripoli.

364 THE GREAT DESERT.
This morning Haj Essnousee, being on foot, called
out for his camel to stop, in a tone which denoted he had
some important business on hand. I turned to see what
was the matter, and so did aU, as if something peculiar
was about to happen. I then saw Essnousee bringing up
a slave girl about a dozen years of age, pulling her
violently along. When he got her up to the camel, he
took a small cord and began tying it round her neck.
Afterwards, bethinking himself of something, he tied
the cord round the wrist of her right arm. This
done, Essnousee drove the camel on. In a few
minutes she fell down, and the slave-master, seeing her
fallen dawn, and a man attempting to raise her up, cried
out, "Let her alone, cursed be your father! you dog."
The wretched girl was then dragged on the ground over
the sharp stones, being fastened by her wrist, but she
never cried or uttered a word of complaint. Her legs
now becoming lacerated and bleeding profusely, she was
lifted up by Essnousee's Arabs. She then, however,
continued to hold on, the rope being also bound round
her body so as to help her along. Thus she was dragged,
limping and tumbling down, and crippled aU the day,
which was a very long day's journey. Whether she
feigned sickness, or sulked, or was exhausted, I leave the
reader to judge. Neither I nor her cruel master could
teU. Indeed, such is the nature of the Negro character
it is impossible to tell. A slave may sulk, and may not ;
whilst also UI and dying, they may be flogged on the
point of death, as Haj Ibrahim flagellated his dying
victim. No doubt, at times these wretched slaves, when
worn down and exhausted, play some innocent tricks to
get a ride. Nevertheless, such is the power of sullen

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 365
insensibUity which slaves can command, that the brutal
masters may flog them to death without finding out
whether they are really ill, or only sulky.
7th. — On our return from a difficult journey, every
thing is, or appears to be easy. We think little or no
thing of it, especially if we have got with us a new
supply of matters of equipment and provisions. So I
rose early with the most profound indifference of the
month's journey before me, as if traveUing in old England,
and I must likewise add, with less anxiety for the safety
of my baggage. Desert baggage-stealers there are indeed
none, and pickpockets and pUferers are as rare as the
birds, which now and then are seen hopping about the
weUs, picking up what they can chance to find.
Our course is north, over an undulating sandy soil.
About 11 a.m. we had in view Ghudwah, and in an hour
more we reached the village. Ghudwah is a cluster of
wretched mud-hovels, rendered tolerable by being placed
amidst a wood of palms. The squalor of these humble
dwellings is, in truth, forgotten amongst the patches of
beautiful green corn, some already in the ear, and the
graceful, towering, all-over-hanging palm-trees. In a
wady on the left were also forests of palms. The oases
of Fezzan are, in fact, but a series of these palm-forests.
Unquestionably a great body of water must be under
and near the surface. But we must keep to the desig
nation of oases in describing the province of Fezzan, of
which we had a convincing proof this morning; for,
during four or five hours we traversed a country in every
respect desert, covered with small black stones, defying
all attempts at cultivation, and this desert land appa-

366 THE GREAT DESERT.
rently surrounds and intersects the entire series of the
oases of Fezzan.
When we got clear of Ghudwah we halted for the day,
about 2 p. m., near a weU caUed Bel-Kashee-Faree. I
was glad to halt, both for the sake of the slaves, and my
self. To-day the same girl was not tied to the camel, but a
younger one. She also, poor thing, was dragged along,
limping as she went, and whenever she stopped a mo
ment to tie up her sandals, she had the greatest difficulty
to reach again the camel. I was annoyed to see none
of her sister-slaves give her a lift and help her on to get
up to the camel, so that she might continue to be assisted
by its march. Some of the poor things, however, have
their intimate friends in their feUow bondswomen. The
girl dragged on yesterday, had her faithful companion,
bringing her water and dates. But in spite of aU their
sufferings, the poor bondswomen keep up well. The
young women sing and sometimes dance on the road,
while the boys ape the Turkish soldiers whom they had
seen exercise in Mourzuk, walking in file, holding up
sticks on their shoulders, and crying out " Shoulder
arms!" or words to that effect. The guileless lads of
Africa think these two magic words to be the quin
tessence of Turkish and European civihzation, and that
which renders the white men superior to their sable
fathers. Two of the boys are dressed in old soldiers'
jackets and look very droU. So we journey along as weU
as we can.
But whUst surveying the march of this troop of hu
man cattle for the market, I can't but think how dread
ful a trade is this of buying and selling our fellow

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 367
creatures! The Moors and Arabs of the ghafalah are
civil enough. They discover great curiosity at seeing me
write, and not a little surprise, like all I have met with,
to find me writing Arabic, whilst some of themselves
cannot. They are aU of Sockna.
It is now near sunset, but I am not going to write a
description of a Saharan sunset, which this evening offers
nothing but sheets of bright yeUow flame. Towards the
east, the palms, underwood, and herbage make me fancy
myself in the midst of a boundless circle of cultivation,
for I see no " darksome desert" through the pale skyey
openings of the thick verdure. My feelings thus would
be soothed and gratified, were it not that the sounds —
always to me so melancholy — of the Negroes' song, as
they clap their hands and sing and dance their native
sports, are heard near my encampment. Then again I
feel happy in the reflection that God gives moments of
joyous happiness even to slaves. Why not be soothed
to hear this song of slaves? What a mysterious thing
is Providence! Not to the masters of these slaves,
who are now stretched in dreamy listlessness on the
ground, gives God such jocund innocent delights; not to
the wiser and wisest, to the stronger or strongest, (as
" the battle is not to the strong,") gives God happiness ;
but to the poorest, weakest of mortals, the forlorn, help
less female slave! As I have mentioned, I heard this
same song — to me so melancholy and disheartening —
as the slaves were departing from Mourzuk. I was then
quietly writing, but as the mournful accents broke on my
ear, I started from my usual propriety of feeling, and the
courage which carried me over The Desert gave away
under the pressure of these strange Nigritian sounds of

368 THE GREAT DESERT.
the poor black children, the desolate daughters of the
banks of the mysterious Niger. The tears rushed to my
eyes, but I stopped them in their lachrymal sluices, and
called it folly, for to weep I cannot, I will not. Rather
let me curse the slave-dealers of every land and clime.
Yes, let this foolish sensibUity be turned to exasperation ;
let me curse those proud Republicans, in whose heart
there is no flesh, whose flag bears impiously against
Heaven the stripes and the scars of the slaves ! These
I cursed, and those who in the hypocrisy of their souls,
and their sanctimonious pretensions to Church freedom,
received the gold tainted with the blood of the slave, to
build up their Free Kirk ! But why curse ? What im
potence ! Why not leave the avenging bolt of wrath to
that God, who " hath made of one blood all the nations
of men, for to dweU on all the face of the earth?"
8th. — Rose at sunrise and started with the day.
Route north and north-west, over an undulating gra
velly plain. A few tholh trees, and one solitary tholh
by the road-side, which at a great distance forms a very
conspicuous object. A single tree in The Desert always
excites more interest in the mind of the reflective tra
veller than a forest. Solitary palms are often seen
near the coast. At noon, reached the weU called Beer
Mukhanee, after the distinguished traitor, who dug it,
but who betrayed and ruined this country. Many a
tyrant and traitor has left behind him some monument
of utility, to relieve the weight of his infamous name with
posterity. The weU is very deep and the water good,
but we did not take in any, as wells are frequent here
abouts. Continued our course until sunset, a long day,
and encamped at the base of a small mountain, called

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 369
Baban, or " Two Doors," and by others, El-Bab, or " The
Door." The Door and the Gate, like the famous " Iron
Gate" in Algeria, are frequent names of rocky hills and
mountains in this part of Africa. Ghaljeewan, a moun
tainous district of the south-eastern part of Aheer, is
caUed " the door of Aheer." On the Danube there is a
reef of ugly and huge rocks, over which the current of
the river dashes furiously. The Turks caU this " The
Iron Gate" of the Danube.
On the road the camels had no herbage to eat. Some
of them ate the dried dung of camels and horses. We
have a young camel with us about four months old ; it
continues to suck. It has no frolic or fun in its actions,
and is as serious as its mother. The foal of the camel
frolics in awkward antics a few days after its birth, but
apparently soon loses aU its infant mirth. In the first
place, the foal has to walk as long a day as its mother,
enough to take all the fun out of the poor little thing ;
then, it sees aU its more aged companions very serious
and melancholy, and soon imbibes their sombre spirit,
assuming their slow solemn gait. The mother-camel
never licks or shows any particular fondness for its young
beyond opening her legs for the foal to suck. At best,
the camel, as an animal, is a most ungainly and unlovely
creature. What surprises me most are the bites of the
male-camel. He bites his neighbour, without passion or
any apparent provocation, and simply because he has
nothing else to do en route, or nothing arrests his
attention. To write in the open Desert is no sinecure. When I
go under the shade from the sun the wind blows unpity-
ingly, when in the sun the flies torment me. Our grand
VOL. II. 2 B

370 THE GREAT DESERT.
slave-driver Haj Essnousee, is most determinedly bent
on showing himself a perfect master in his profession.
This afternoon he set to work beating one poor girl most
shockingly for not keeping up "with the rest. Nearly aU
got whipped along to-day. Gave a ride to one little
feUow, hardly five years of age, who limped sadly. There
was no sulk in him. He was cheerful with all his
sufferings. Our road is strewn with chumps of petrified
wood. Was thinking to-day, for whilst travelling with slaves
the subject is most disagreeably pressed upon you, even to
nausea, of the reasons offered by American Consuls in
vindication of slavery in the United States. Mr. P 
thus apologized : — " I once spoke to a male slave who
earned plenty of money. I said, ' Do you want to be
freed ?' ' Oh no,' he replied, ' I get fifty dollars a month.
I give my master forty and keep ten for myself. Why
should I wish to be free ?'" Mr. M  said to me one
day, " My wife has slaves, but they are weU taken care
of. They each have two new suits of clothes per year,
and the doctor's biU for each comes to two or three
doUars also per year." To such miserable drivelling as
this are men, of some education and standing in society,
and the representatives of the free as well as the slave
States, driven to bolster up the nefarious system of
holding in bondage their feUow creatures ! In the one
case, a man robs his brother of the rightful fruits of his
labour. This robbery is perpetrated coolly and delibe-
rately through a series of years. In the other case,
the taking care of a slave, as every humane man must
take care of his horse, and give him good beans, hay,
and a warm stable, is made the corner stone of " the

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 371
living lie" of liberty on the southern transatlantic
plains. 9th. — Rose with the sun, throwing his orient beams of
gold athwart all the plain, and purpling the rocky block
of El-Bab. I mounted the rock, and saw Sebhah in the
north, where we were to rest in the afternoon. There
was a huge stone balancing on a ledge of the rock, which
apparently wanted but a feather's weight to throw it
down. Bent on mischief, I was going to heave it down,
when the people caUed to me to desist. On descending,
they told me the stone had fallen from the clouds and
caught there ; it was unlucky to touch it. A demou
sits upon it every night and swings himself as a child is
swung in a swing. Continued our route over a sandy
plain, until we arrived at a line of palms stretching east
and west, as far as the eye could see. At 1 1 a.m., we
entered the suburbs of the town. After a little rest I
went to see what sort of a place it was. Found it a
tolerably weU-buUt place ; the houses are constructed of
stone and mud-mortar; some have even got a touch of
lime or pipe-clay wash. Several of the streets are
covered in at the top like those of Ghadames. Very few
people stirring about, being occupied in the suburban
gardens. FeU in with a cobbler, a taUor, and an old
pedagogue with an A B C board. Discussed the poli
tics of the place with them aU. They took me at
first for a Turkish Rais coming from Mourzuk. When
they found I was not a Turk, they began to abuse the
Turks. "The Turks," said they, "take aU our money
and leave us nothing to eat but dates. The curse of
God be upon them !" Whenever Turkish officers stop
here they levy contributions. The town is walled in
2 B 2

372 THE GREAT DESERT.
with mud and stone-work, and there are several towers
around it forming part of the wall, pierced with loop
holes for firing musketry therefrom. Most of these towns
are built for protecting the people against the Arabs, who
can do nothing against a waU, even were it only a brick
thick. One small piece of cannon would be enough to
batter down every one of these Saharan-fortified towns.
A part of this town is placed on a small hiU, like Ghat.
Sebhah has a dull dingy appearance at a distance. There
is no lime-wash to give it that agreeable aspect which
many Moorish towns have, although always very delusive
when one enters their gates.
This forenoon, a slave-girl was sadly goaded along.
An Arab boy of about the same age was her goad, who
was whipping her and goading her along with a sharp
piece of wood. Sometimes the young rascal would poke
up her person. I could not see this without interfering,
although I am afraid to interfere. She had got far
behind, and the boy was thus tormenting her like a
young imp. I made him take one hand, and I the
other. But we could not get her up to the camel on
which she might lay hold by means of a rope, and so get
dragged along. We then set her upon a donkey, but she
was too unwell to ride, and feU off several times, the
cruel rogue of a boy beating her every time she fell.
What annoyed me more, her companions in bondage,
those hearty and well, set up a loud yeU of laughter
every time she fell off. I'm sick at heart of writing
these shocking detaUs. But the reader will not be sur
prised that the Moors make bad slave-masters, when
they have such an early training as this little reprobate
boy, the nephew of Haj Essnousee. I often wondered

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.

373

how this boy, who was some thirteen years of age, and
fully capable of the sentiment of love, in a climate like
Africa, could torment these poor girls of his own age
with such brutality. If he found one lagging behind, and
at some distance from the grown-up men, he would strip
her, throw her down, and begin tormenting her in the
way I have already mentioned. I spoke to his uncle
about it, but without avail. I then refused to carry on
my camel some choice dates, which he had in his charge
for Tripoli. But it was of no use, the boy was the
worthy pupil of his uncle, a little fiend of ferocity.
My Sockna companions of travel chat with me, but
their conversation offers nothing new or remarkable.
" There is no money in Fezzan. Our city (Sockna) only
has a few merchants. Mukhanee was originally a mer
chant, and a member of the Divan of Mourzuk. He
ruined Fezzan." One of the people of this place said to
me, " Better if you were a Mussulman, and ate and drank
like us." I replied, " I eat everything good, and never
fast to make myself ill." This plain speech amazed
them. But one said, somewhat to my surprise, " That
only which is not good, and not fit to eat, is haram (pro
hibited)." I immediately said "Amen" to this, for
generaUy the Moors maintain that pork and other things
of the kind prohibited, are not good because they are
prohibited, and not on account of any intrinsic badness
in the things themselves. They, of course, asked me
what sort of places were England and London. It's
little use to answer such questions ; they cannot reahze
the idea or forms of an European city, even in imagina
tion. Describing the riches of London, one observed ill-
naturedly, " Oh, God gives the infidels peace in this

374 THE GREAT DESERT.
world, and fire in the next." I then thought it time to
leave off my description. Whilst we were chatting, a
locust was caught and roasted. I tasted it, and found it
not a bad shrimp. The locust requires salt and oU to
make it palatable. The Arabs swear the locusts have a
king, which perfectly agrees with — Kal exovcnv i </>' avr&v
/3aai\ea: (Rev. ix. 11.) The name given to this insect
monarch as perfectly corresponds with their migratory
devastations, AttoWv<ov, "destroyer," for before their
march are smiUng fields of verdure and fruitfulness,
whilst behind them are desert and devastation.
I find in this part of my journal several anecdotes of
the Bashaw of Mourzuk and Mr. GagUuffi, which seem to
have come to my recollection en route. The Tibboo
chief before mentioned, whose jurisdiction extends over a
wretched vUlage, observed one day to the Bashaw, "The
Sultan of the Tibboos (himself) inquires after the health
of the Sultan of the Turks. But I am well, therefore
the Sultan of the Turks is weU ; and if I am not well,
then the Sultan of the Turks is not weU." His Excel
lency replied, menacingly, " You're right, but take care
you don't get unweU, for by G — d if you do get unweU,
and so make my Sultan unwell, ITI come and cut aU
your people's throats, and burn down your city." The
Tibboo chief, feeUng the force of the argumentum ad
hominem, started out of the audience-chamber in a fright,
and made off from Mourzuk as quick as possible. Before,
indeed, he could get off, he began to fancy himself UI,
and was iU with fright, and expected every moment to
be within the clutches of the Bashaw. I related to the
Bashaw the story of the Governor of Ghat, having the
sword of his ancestors amongst the trophies at Constan-

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 375
tinople. The facetious Bashaw observed to me : — " You
ought to have said, ' I'll fetch you the sword, Haj
Ahmed, if you'U promise Uke a good Uttle boy not to cut
your fingers with it.' "
Mr. Gagliuffi was weU acquainted with the tyrant
Asker Ali. The tyrant once dreamt he should kiU Abd-
El-Geleel, and his brother, and some other chiefs, but one
would escape. The escaping Sheikh was Ghoma, now
an exUe at Trebisonde. This dream was actuaUy
related and retailed in Tripoli two years before the
events happened. One day Mr. Gagliuffi called on the
tyrant, and found him very thoughtful divining in the
rumel ("sand"). " What's the matter?" asked the Con
sul. His Highness exclaimed, " Oh, I'm much troubled.
An Arab chief has come here professing aUegiance to
my government. But he's a great vUlain, for such I have
found him in the sand." The next day the unfortunate Arab
was assassinated. Many an honest man was murdered
by the fortuitous throw and faU, and scattering of these
atom sands, in the cruel fingers of the tyrant. Who
wiU deny after this that the events of our life are (to us)
so many accidents ? A Touarghee Sheikh once proposed
to Mr. GagUuffi to seU his country to the Sultan of the
EngUsh. The Consul, who took this as serious, ought to
have considered it a joke of the grave Touarghee. The
Touaricks can teU the most funny stories, and make
the most cutting gibes at their neighbours, without mov
ing a single muscle of the face.
10th. — We are to stay here to-day and to-morrow, in
order that our slave-masters may obtain provisions.
These people can do nothing without losing an enormous
quantity of time. It breaks my heart to lose so much

376 THE GREAT DESERT.
precious time. coma nave got up to Soudan before I
shaU get down to Tripoli. A Touarghee once talked to
me of travelling, and on my teUing him I was going to
The East, to the New World (America), and many other
places, he exclaimed, " Allah Akbar, thou fool, thy hfe
isn't long enough." And certainly it would not were we
to travel at the rate of our Saharans. They never
measure a man's life and what he can do in it. The day
present, and its evils, is with them enough. The proverb
quoted by the great teacher of Christianity, " Sufficient
unto the day is the evU thereof,'' is much better adapted
to ancient than modern society, or rather to Oriental
and African than European society. The European is
obliged to think of the morrow, and take thought for the
morrow, or he would no tbe able to live ; in these days
of restless and overpowering competition he would die
of starvation. One of the Moors tried to write the
name of Mahomet in Roman letters. I have seen several
Moors attempt this ; one did it pretty weU.
At noon, had a strong altercation with a Moor of the
town about reUgion, who introduced the subject and was
very insulting. Being out of the hands of the Toua
ricks I have less deUcacy on these matters, and so I
boldly contradicted his notions. I told him, with aU
frankness, " It was impossible for a good Christian ever
to become a Mussulman : a bad Christian might, one
who had robbed, or murdered, or run away from his
country. Such were the Spaniards who run away from
the prisons of exile in Morocco. Mahomet witnessed
that Jesus was a true prophet ; and Jesus witnessed that
Moses was a prophet, and Moses prophesied of Jesus.
But neither Jesus, nor Moses, nor any other prophet,

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 377
witnessed to the truth of the mission of Mahomet."
This amazed him excessively. Seeing this, I added,
" Never attempt to convert a Christian, or speak to him
about religion ; for in the end you are sure to be dis
satisfied." The' zealot immediately changed the conver
sation. Several of the people of the town Ustened to
our argument, but they made no observation, except one
old man, who observed laconicaUy, " Mahometans, Jews,
and Christians, are aU rogues; but God is merciful."
This, I think, is about the truth.
This evening the female slaves were unusuaUy merry
and excited in singing, and I had the curiosity to ask
Said what they were singing about. As several spoke
the language of his own country, Mandara and Bornou, he
had no difficulty in answering the question. I had often
asked the Moors about the merry songs and plaintive
dirges of the negresses, but could never get a satisfactory
answer. Said replied at first, " Oh, they're singing of Rubbee
(God)." " What do you mean ?" I rejoined impatiently.
"Oh, don't you know," he continued; "they ask God
to give them the Atkah*."
I.— "IsthataU?"
Said. — " No ; they say, ' Where are we going to ?
The world is large, 0 God ! Where are we going ? 0
God ! ShaU we return again to our country ?' "
* A tkah is the freedom document. On the liberation of a slave,
this is signed by the Kady, in the presence of two witnesses. A
freed slave bas it generally about him. But after he is known, and
has resided long in one place, it is no longer thought of. When a
batch of slaves are liberated on the death of their master, they fol
low him to his burial, carrying the atkah tied at the top of long rods.

378 THE GREAT DESERT.
I.—" Is that all, what else ?"
Said. — "They call to their remembrance their own
country and say, ' Bornou was a pleasant country, full
of aU good things, but this is a bad country and we are
miserable, and are ready to sink down.'"'
/. — " Do they say anything more ?"
Said. — " No, they repeat these words over and over
again, and add, ' 0 God ! give us our atkah, let us go to
our dear home.'"
I am not surprised the Moors never gave me a satis
factory answer respecting the songs said and sung by
their slaves. Who can assert that the above words are
not an appropriate song ? What could have been more
congeniaUy adapted to their present woeful condition ?
And what language could have given us a more favour
able opinion of the feeling and inteUect of the African?
May pitying Heaven hear the prayers of these poor
creatures, give them their liberty, restore them to their
country ! It is not to be wondered at, these poor bonds
women should cheer up their hearts with words and
sentiments like these ; but, oftentimes, their sufferings
were too great for them to strike up this melancholy
dirge, and the silence of the dreadful Desert was many
days unsubdued, uninterrupted by these mournful strains !
I take this opportunity of noticing the several love
ditties and songs about gaUant chiefs and warriors re
turning from battle, the lovers of the sable maidens,
attributed to these poor female slaves en route over The
Desert, as found in some books of travel, which, I beheve,
are the invention of slave-masters, embeUished by the
traveUer. No; their song is, and was, and always wUl
be, because the spontaneous voice of distressed nature,

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 379
appeahng to the justice and help of the Author of all
being !
" 0 God ! give us our freedom. Where are we going ?
The world is large and terrifies us.
" ShaU we return again to our dear homes, where we
lived happUy and enjoyed every blessing ?
" But we are in a horrible country ; aU things frown
upon us; we suffer, and are ready to die.
" 0 God ! give us our freedom *."
Mr. J. G. Whittier, the distinguished American poet,
has rendered these words into verse. He says : —
" The following is an attempt to versify this melan
choly appeal of distressed human nature to the help
and justice of God. Nothing can be added to its simple
pathos. SONG OF THE SLAVES IN THE DESERT.
Where are we going? Where are we going?
Where are we going, Rubee ?
Hear us ! Save us ! Make us free ;
Send our Atka down from thee !
Here the Ghiblee wind is blowing,
Strange and large the world is growing !
Tell us, Rubee, where are we going?
Where are we going, Rubee?
Bornou! Bornou! Where is Bornou?
Where are we going, Rubee ?
Bornou-land was rich and good,
Wells of water, fields of food;
Bornou-land we see no longer,
Here we thirst, and here we hunger,
Here the Moor man smites in anger ;
Where are we going, Rubee?
* The prayer to God is a chorus sung by the whole troop.
When not fatigued, and in good health, the Negresses will sing
from morning to night.

380 THE GREAT DESERT.
Where are we going? Where are we going?
Hear us, save us, Rubee !
Moons of marches from our eyes,
Bornou-land behind lis lies :
Hot the desert wind is blowing,
Wild the waves of sand are flowing !
Hear us ! tell us, Where are we going ?
Where are we going, Rubee ?
Some freed slaves passed to-day on their return to
Bornou, their native land. This reminded me of what
Mr. Gagliuffi related respecting a female slave, who, after
being brought to Mourzuk, was taken back by her master
to Bornou. When her master first told her of his inten
tion, she simply repUed, "No, you wUl not take me
back." She always persisted in the same reply, when
the subject was ever mentioned. At length the time
came, and she was mounted on a camel and started off.
But her master, on returning, having changed the first
part of the route from that which he came, her sus
picions and unbelief were at once confirmed. However,
a few days elapsed and the old route was resumed, and
seeing, at last, from various indications of the road that
she was reaUy returning, she burst into convulsions of
joy, and with no ordinary care her Ufe was saved. She
never properly recovered from the effect of these con
vulsions of transport. What can be stronger than such
feelings of amor patriae, what more marked proof of
intelligent sensibiUty, allying the negro with the whole
human race ? For,
" Lives there a man with soul so dead,
Who never to himself hath said,
' This is my own, my native land.' "
If Dr. Pritchard's argument be good in religion, by

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 381
the existence of which sentiment in the breast of every
portion of humankind he proves that all men are of one
species, and of one original race or stock, the argument
is equally true of patriotism. I have found, however,
some Moors, Uke some of our philosophers, denying the
Negro to be of the same race as the white man. But
such Mahometan detractors of the Negro character are
extremely rare. The greatest champion of this class
was a slave-dealer, and, indeed, it is a convenient opinion
for men- stealers of every nation.
The Moors have a primitive way of making a draught
board. A person of the town brought an apron full of
sand. This he threw upon a stone bench, and spread it
over, making a number of holes for the white and black
squares of the board. This done, they then brought a
certain number of pieces of stones with a corresponding
number of dried balls of camel's dung, (and which, it
may be remarked, are very small in comparison to the
size of the animal). The whole was now complete and
the parties set to work. AU the Islamites whom I have
seen are passionately fond of gaming and games of
chance ; and, curious enough, thousands who could not
be prevailed upon to drink wine (or eat pork), wUl game
all day long, notwithstanding that gaming is prohibited
in the very sentences of the Koran, in which wine is
condemned. " They wiU ask thee (Mahomet) concerning
wine and lots. Answer. — In both there is great sin."
" Satan seeketh to sow dissension and hatred amono-st
you, by means of wine and lots," &c. (Surat U. and v.)
How the commentators have quieted the consciences of
the Faithful on the point of lots and not about wine I

382 THE GREAT DESERT.
cannot imagine. Such is the absolute foUy of matters of
this sort, the " clean" and the " unclean" in rehgion.
11th. — The sky is overcast this morning, and, what a
wonder! we have had a few precious drops of rain.
Rain, like gold, is valuable according to circumstances.
Wind from N.W. No heat is now felt here. Sebhah
is the very abode of dead men, the catacombs of the
living. Here, at mid-day, you might sit in the lonely
streets, and lecture on the immortahty of the soul, to
the few people, who, at long intervals, pass flitting by,
Uke spectres of the dead. The melancholy appearance
of the place so horrifies me that I don't go into it.
When and where the inhabitants rendezvous and gossip
is a complete mystery. To the palms and huts of palm-
leaves without the town, I return, to convince myself I
am in the land of the living. Visited some of the
suburban gardens. Irrigation is the support of all vege
table life here. People were employed in weeding the
corn-fields; besides the weeds, they picked up the smaU
blades of corn, those not likely to be ripe with the rest
of the crop, which are given to the sheep and horses. I
have seen, however, no horses here. It is reported
amongst the people of the town, that the Touaricks
attacked me and took away aU my money. As this con
tinues to spread amongst the oases, I shall soon be mur
dered by the helping imagination of the people, at any
rate, before I arrive at Tripoli. A gardener tells me,
many palms grow and bear fruit without being watered,
or having any water running under them.
The Sebhah district embraces four viUages besides its
town, viz., Ghortah, Hajrah, Marwees, and Hafat. The

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 383
population are Moors and Arabs mixed occasionally with
Negro blood; but no black population begins at these or
the oases hereabouts, as fooUshly stated on the map of
Capt. Lyon.
\2th. — We leave to-day to pursue our journey. Oh,
what is Ufe ! In the wilderness or the abode of civiliza
tion, it is one weary way : but soon, thank God ! to end.
This morning I was convinced, that, however bad the
condition of a people may be, it may stUl be worse. A
poor wretched woman of Sebhah came to beg dates from
the slaves! from their scanty aUowance. As it mostly
happens, the poor give more than the rich in proportion
to their means, so these poor slaves gave the beggar
woman a most disproportioned quantity of their miserable
aUowance. A Uttle vanity there may have been in this,
for however badly off we are ourselves, we are not dis
pleased to see some people stUl worse off, and are gra
tified in laying them under some miserable obligation.
Left Sebhah about 8 A. M., and after three hours' ride
came in view of a forest of date-palms. This wood of
palms is out of the Une of route, and extends from
Sebhah to Timhanah, a day's journey. Essnousee ob
served, on arriving at the palms, "See, these are all
young palms, lately planted; they are never watered
but bear plenty of dates. It is only in Fezzan the
palms bring dates without water." Our route is north,
and, as before, over an undulating gravelly surface.
Several heaps of stones in a part of the road, evidently
to clear it, as it is next to impossible to miss the way in
this part of Sahara. No stones were added to these
heaps by us. Our precursors, in past times, were much
more attentive to clearing routes than ourselves.

384 THE GREAT DESERT.
I am sorry to record the nasty feelings of the people
of these Fezzanee towns towards Christians. I found
the people a most inhospitable set, and could not get
from them a drop of mUk for love or money. As, how
ever, they sent plenty of prepared food every evening to
the people of the ghafalah, Essnousee was kind enough
to give me a dish or two. I attribute this inhospitality
to their hatred of the Turks, and the Enghsh being con
sidered as the friends of the Turks.
Reached Timhanah at 3 p.m. I was grievously
attacked with the tooth and ear-ache, produced by the
strong cold wind which had been blowing nearly aU day.
Got some rum and doctored myself, and by sunset I was
enabled to read a little of my Greek Testament. I did
not go into the town of Timhanah, being so disgusted
with the people of Sebhah. Apparently Timhanah is
half the size of Sebhah, and walled with mud and stones.
The country around offers the usual prospect of palms
and patches of corn cultivation, with weUs in each field
for irrigation. These oases are most annoyingly alike,
and one description must serve for all. The inhabitants
fancy I am a Turk, and ask me to speak Turkish. Others
shun me as such ; and since the Turks, in passing these
oases, levy upon the inhabitants hospitality by force, this
may be the cause of the Uttle good feeling manifested
by them to strangers. Essnousee, for whom I am begin
ning to entertain the most intense disgust, amused himself
this evening with most unmercifully beating his slaves.
I could not find out the cause. The females usually
catch it most. I cannot tell the reason, except it be,
they are more difficult to reduce to a regimen, or system
of travelling, and are always fond of playing some

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 385
innocent pranks. The lively things certainly make more
noise and botheration than the males. We are to pur
chase dates here, they being cheap and of good quaUty.
The townspeople come to see me write, but I lose patience
with them, knowing them to be such a nasty set. Bad
rulers make bad subjects. The Turks would make any
people suspicious and inhospitable. However, when I
left the place, some of them came forward to lend a
hand in loading the camel, a mark of friendship, which
showed me they would be hospitable if their hospitality
were not abused by the Turks. To my surprise, this
morning a lad of our ghafalah was struck by a scor
pion. I did not expect to see scorpions this time of the
year. The scorpion was kiUed instantly. It was a
smaU one, and its stroke feeble, for the lad complained
very little, and I heard no more of the matter. In the
Apocalypse, locusts are represented as striking a man
Uke scorpions, although they are by nature harmless, so
far as wounding humankind is concerned. It is weU
to observe, the Saharan people always speak of scorpions
as not stinging but striking a man, the verb used being
wj^o , " to beat," " to strike." So in chap. ix. 5, it is
Said, koX 6 fiao-avi<Tfji,os avrdv 6)s (SacravKT/xo? a^ppiriov,
orav TraiBj] avdpwirov (" and their torment [i. e., inflicted
by locusts] was as the torment of a scorpion, when he
striketh a man").

vol. n. 2 c

386

CHAPTER XXVIII.
FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA.
Continued delays. — Confidence of the Slaves in the Kafer (myself).
^Supply them with Water. — Negro Youths exhibit Sham-
Fighting. — Commissions recorded in Journal. — Missionary La
bour in Central Africa. — Beer Tagheetah. — Palms of Ghur-
meedah. — A Fezzanee's description of his Country. — Reading
on the Camel's Back. — Arrive at the Village of Zeghen. —
French Patent Soup. — Young Camels broken in. — Omm El-
Abeed. — Essnousee sermonizes on " What is Good in this
World." — Various Races of Fezzan. — My extreme exhaustion.
— The Flogging of the Mandara Slave by Essnousee. — Illusions
of Desert Sands. — Plateau magnifying objects.— Horrid Waste.
How restored from Fatigue. — Digging a Well by the order of
the Turks. — Slaves benighted. — Gibel Asoud. — Well of Ghot-
fah. — Meet Reinforcements of Arab Cavalry. — Arrival at
Sockna.
13^. — To-day we came but a short distance, leaving
late and encamping about half-past 2 p. m. Our object
is to allow the camels to feed weU, for there will now
be little or no herbage for them untU we arrive at
Sockna, a distance of some six days. Respecting all
these delays, I can say with the most heartfelt sincerity,
" Here is the patience of (traveUers)." The poor slaves
know by instinct the encampment of the Kafer to be a
friendly one, notwithstanding the Moors and Arabs per
sist ungenerously in teaching these poor things to caU
me kafer, or infidel, and to look upon me with a species
of horror. For water, they come to us continuaUy. To
deposit a little bazeen, or flour-pudding, in the evening
untU the morning, they come to us, finding it secure in

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 387
our hands. Not to be beaten, they come to us, crouch
ing down by me, and getting out of the way of the whip
behind my back. In this way the poor things show
their confidence in the man whom their masters teach
them to look upon as an enemy of God ! Although the
weUs are numerous, only a certain supply of water is
carried, and a smaU quantity is served out to the slaves.
They frequently require a little water before the time of
departing arrives, and come to me, looking up wistfully,
putting their fingers to their parched and cracking lips.
Said looks after them, and gives them as much of our
water as he dares, fearing we shall be short ourselves.
" Should ye ever be one of a fainting band,
With your brow to the sun, and your feet to the sand,
Traverse The Desert, and then you can tell,
What treasures exist in the cold deep well ;
Sink in despair on the red parched earth,
And then you may reckon what water is worth."
The Negro youths are practising some of their wUd
sports and warrior tricks. Three on one side and
three on the other set to work to bring off a sham-
fight. The youths made arrows of the branches of the
palm, and, holding up a portion of their clothes for a shield,
they throw these palm-branch arrows with great force and
precision, almost always hitting one another. This they
continued for some time. As the arrows are thrown by
the party of one side they are picked up by the other.
When a man faUs by a slip or otherwise, the opposing
combatants fight over his body with great obstinacy and
animation. This was the prettiest scene of the wild
fight. The real arrow used in the interior is usuaUy
poisoned. The Negroes are expert in discovering and
2c2

388 THE GREAT DESERT.
preparing vegetable poisons, as men of all countries are
in inventing weapons for their own destruction. The
Negroes have their Captain Warners as weU as we.
Bundles of these poisoned arrows were exposed for sale
at Ghat, together with bullocks'-hide shields. Whilst
the lads are thus passing their time, the lasses are
combing, dressing, and oiling their hair, or washing and
cleaning, or decorating themselves, or playing with their
little trinkets of glass beads and chains; thus clearly
defining the tastes of the male and female Negro animal.
It is much the same amongst us civilized brutes. Men
fight and quarrel one way or the other, and the
women flirt and dress. The occupation of the wo
men is the more harmless. Perhaps we are getting a
little better. Men begin to think there is more noble
employment in the world than cutting one another's
throats, and deifying the wholesale assassins who destroy
them; women, too, seem disposed to prove that they
have something else to attend to, besides setting off and
conserving their beauty. We have with us a youth
sent for sale to TripoU by the Bashaw of Fezzan, who
it seems must dabble in slave-dealing, notwithstanding
his imprecations against the merchants of Ghadames for
the same crime. He is from Mandara, and was kid
napped by the Tibboos. This is the captain of all the
sham-fighters, and the leader and prompter of all other
sports on the way. There is always one who assumes
superiority over the rest, in every troop of human
beings; so it was in the beginning, and so it will ever
continue to be.
I see by my notes I have various commissions to
execute — if — if — if I return to Mourzuk en route. First

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 389
for the Sheikh of Bornou, I am to bring a smaU coin
ing-machine to make a copper-currency, replacing the
present inconvenient system of pieces of cotton caUed
Ghubgha*. Next, I am to bring Congreve-rockets, by
which the Sheikh may" set on fire the straw-hut cities of
his enemies; but I should think a good driU-serjeant
would be better than rockets. FinaUy, some instruc
tions, in the Arabic language, for preparing indigo, and
bees'-wax, and tanning leather. This last memoran
dum of the commission is infinitely more grateful to
one's feeUngs, as promoting the useful arts in Cen
tral Africa, than either establishing a base currency,
or multiplying the weapons of destruction. For the
Bashaw of Fezzan is to be brought a splendid gold
watch. The Greek Doctor wants an Itahan Medical
Dictionary, anda small case of surgical instruments ; and
for Mr. GagUuffi I am to bring everything which may be
useful to him. The Consul very justly recommends, the
teaching Negroes the useful arts as the only means
of permanently extinguishing the traffic in slaves. He
also recommends the introducing of Missionaries into
the Pagan countries, Mandara and Begharmy, beyond
and neighbouring to Bornou, as an important means of
civilizing Africa. But, it is to be understood, that the
Missionaries should go as merchants, and, like Paul,
work with their own hands at mechanical trades. It
must not be a wild-goose chase of empty declamation,
* A ghubgha is a measure of six feet long, and measures pieces
of cotton six feet long (and three inches broad), from which circum
stance the currency is thus named. Four ghubghas form a rottol
or pound, and thirty rottols are of the value of a Spanish dollar.
This was the exchange in 1845.

390 THE GREAT DESERT.
but a thoroughly conscientious project, wrought out
according to the circumstances of the country, with dis
cretion and courage. In this way it would, with the
blessing of Providence, succeed admirably. The Mora
vians alone have successfully appUed themselves to this
kind of Missionary labour.
Passed a weU this morning, on our left, caUed Beer
Tagheetah. There is water in many places where no
attempt is made to cultivate the cultivable soil. I asked
an Arab of Timhanah why more land was not culti
vated? "We have no bullocks, no asses; we cannot
draw up the water — we want money," was the reply.
This sort of answer is appUcable to almost every country
in Europe. Our encampment is at the place called
Ghurmeedah. Here are only two or three untenanted
huts, where the date-watchers sleep or repose during the
season. This small forest of palms belongs to Zeghen.
Took a little cuscasou with some Arabs who have joined
us, being hired by Essnousee to carry dates for the
slaves. Giving an account of their country, they say,
" Fezzan is a country of poor people ; it always was so :
we have only the date-palm. This is our riches. If the
sea came up to Fezzan, then we would ship dates for
Tripoli; but as it is, they are too heavy — they don't pay
the expense of carrying to Tripoli. We have besides, a
Uttle corn, but not cattle enough to draw water to in
crease this cultivation. Many of the people Uve only
on dates and hasheesh (herbs). We eat the ghoteb." In
the abandoned huts I found three or four women just
come from Zeghen. They were collecting and boiUn«
the ghoteb, which they sell in their town ; it eats very
cooling and pleasant with dates. If I recoUect, it is

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 391
something Uke the bariUa-plant. I tasted the herb, but
could make nothing of it. Nevertheless, the inhabitants
of Fezzan are apparently healthy and happy. Provi
dence blesses this poor dish of herbs, [and makes it
palatable and nourishing.
14^,. — Rose with the sun's rising, and started with
the first scattering of the bright orient beams. Course
over an undulating surface of mostly sandy soil, but firm
to the camel's foot. In various places is scattered a
great quantity of the common black volcanic shingle, and
which, indeed, covers a fifth of The Sahara I have tra
versed. Essnousee teUs me this stone contains iron, for
so, reported our countrymen of the two former expedi
tions in Fezzan. The Turks of Mourzuk assert the same
thing, though not very great authorities in geology.
This shingle has certainly a most ferruginous appearance.
About three hours after leaving our encampment we
passed the town of Semnou on our right. Our people
read on the camel's back. Essnousee pretends to devo
tional reading. I never attempted reading on the camel,
in order to preserve my eyes, though by no means dif
ficult. An European who has to traverse these Saharan
soUtudes might supply himself with a few entertaining
books, in large type, and whUe away many lonely and
tedious hours, when riding on the camel's back. Only
one of the slaves is sick, to whom I give a ride every
morning. The rest go pretty well — in fact, our short
days' journeys, during these last several days, are a trifle
to us aU.
Arrived at Zeghen at 2 p.m. Don't feel very strong.
Ought to eat more, but can't get meat. Had a good
drink of camel's milk this morning. Tired of cuscasou,

392 THE GREAT DESERT.
and now like bazeen better. Several of the people come
to see me, apparently more hospitable than those of
Sebhah. They are all very poor, scarcely existing, ground
down to the dust of The Desert. Went into the town.
People got talking of religion. The presence of a person
of another faith always suggests the subject to these un
sophisticated people. I declared to them, that as the
Great God was "The Most Merciful," every good man of
every nation, be he Mahometan, Christian, or Jew, might
expect the Divine favour. This doctrine was too Uberal
for some, others approved. Moors, in all these discus
sions, speak a good deal about heU-fire. They think, at
least, this wiU shake a Christian's courage. They are
very sensible to corporal torments themselves, like all
barbarians or semi-civilized people. But, poor idiots,
they don't know that we denounce them as the future
inhabitants of the same place, — " Companions of The
Fire." A Marabout came and listened, who evidently
was one of the fools so kindly and humanely taken care
of by Barbary people. The idiot had ostrich feathers
round his breast, and a circlet of large beads in his
hands, which he kept telling with a vacant stare. He
begged of me, but I gave him nothing, having nothing
to give. Population of Zeghen, about a third or fourth-
rate town of these oases, is estimated at 200 men, 300
women, and 700 children and slaves. There are always
a few more women than men in these Saharan towns.
This surplus of women is kept up by importing female
slaves from Central Africa. There the men perish in
wars, or otherwise are enslaved for the Western Coast,
and a surplus of women is left for the North.
This evening arrived the courier from Mourzuk, who

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 393
took charge of a smaU packet of French patent soup,
which I left behind. Mr. Gagliuffi had had this soup
three years, and it was stUl very good. It is preserved
in thin pieces Uke dried glue. It requires only boiling
with a Uttle salt, and then is pretty good. In long
Desert journeying it would be easy to take a supply of
this sort of preserved soup, as well as potted meat. On
the address of the packet was, " Signore Richardson —
Mr. Gagliuffi — God bless him."
15th. — This morning, at starting, I was very much
amused at seeing two young camels loaded for the first
time with a few trifling things, to break them in. They
are only one year old. The little reprobates cried and
groaned, and grumbled most piteously ; one would have
thought they were about to be killed, with the knife at
their throats. The Arabs, to prevent their crying, throw
some sand into their open mouths. By this little bit of
barbarity, the poor young things were obliged to cease
crying to chew the unwelcome bolus of sand. When
laden, they started off as mad, trying to throw off their
load. Do they know, by their powerful and foreseeing
instinct, that this was the beginning of their painful
labours and journeyings? and do they thus resist the im
position of burthens with aU their youthful ardour and
strength ? A young camel remains with its mother and
sucks a whole year. It is five years before the camel
attains maturity of growth and strength.
Our route is north, over what the French call la terre
accidentee. It was the bond fide Sahara, and wore its
rugged face of desolation. But, after continuing five
hours, we encamped at the Omm-El-Abeed, or "Mother"
or " Country of Slaves," so caUed probably because the

394 THE GREAT DESERT.
slave-caravans stop here to take in a good supply of
water for four days on the highway of Tripoli. What
ever its name, this is a fair spot, abounding with excel
lent water near the surface. There are two weUs, and
both full to overflowing. The water is sUghtly impreg
nated with iron. Herbage around is abundant, and wUd
palms give it the appearance of an oasis. Essnousee,
who is a sagacious feUow, justly remarked to me : — " If
this country were in the hands of Christians, they would
make it a fruitful garden, palms would be planted, corn
sown, and houses built." The Moorish merchants can
appreciate the superior industry and inteUigence of Euro
peans. Undoubtedly, the presence of abundant good water,
and a soU composed of a mixture of sand and earth,
(the essential ingredients for a fruitful oasis,) would, in
other hands, soon render this spot a paradise in Desert.
It rejoices my heart to contemplate the future — if per
chance that future come — when this Saharan region
shall faU into the hands of another Government, be in
vaded, circumscribed, and reduced on every side, and
such a conquest over The Desert made by the hand of
industry, as to render it a garden of the Hesperides, and to
blossom as the rose. In another century, or a century
after that, this may be the case. Even Moors, the worst
people of the world in looking forward to improvements,
have in many of these oases planted young palms, and
already reaped the benefit in an increasing crop of dates,
although, unfortunately, more from necessity than fore
thought have they been actuated. What may then be
expected from men who adopt the principle of progress !
Oftentimes I have connected, in imagination, the shores
of the Mediterranean with the banks of the Niger, by a

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 395
series of uninterrupted palmy oases, with jutting foun
tains, and sUvery streams of living water, and cool shady
resting-places for weary caravans. Hope is stiU my con
solation in travelling through this thirsty dreary wilder
ness. Better to feed the mind with these expectations,
even shoidd they be Ulusory, than sighing and groaning
over the desolations of Africa.
This evening took a little cuscasou with Essnousee.
After supper the eternal subject of religion was brought
forward by this slave-driver. He cannot comprehend
my traveUing, and thinks I must have some secret mis
sion. He was more surprised when I told him I shoiUd
visit the New World after exploring Africa, for this
shifted his suspicions from Mahometan countries. Es
snousee, like others of his countrymen, cannot comprehend
notions of enterprise and discovery in travel. How
should he ? What country has a Moor ? What pur
poses of renown and glory can fiU him with a patriotic
ambition ? Nevertheless, a Moor has three passions,
those of gain — sensuaUty — and religion, which latter
sentiment often at, or even before, the close of life,
absorbs the other two, yet itself degenerating into
superstition and fanaticism. These passions make up
the end and compass of the being of a Moor, the objects
of all his pursuits through life. On the latter of these
sentiments or passions, Haj Essnousee, a thoroughly bad
man himself, took the liberty of addressing me these
words, in reply to my demand of " What is good in this
world ?" " If you wish to do a good thing," said the slave-
driver, " do this, abandon your country and your friends.
Forget you were born a Christian. Go to Egypt — there
turn Mussulman. Then go to Mecca. There read and

396 THE GREAT DESERT.
study all the day, and aU the days of your life. See
and hear the time of prayers announced from El-Kaaba*.
Pray at Fidger, Subah and Aser, Mugreb and Lailahf.
Observe weU the burying-place where the body of the
Prophet is laid, and be assured that if you are buried
there, you wiU rise up at the Resurrection to Paradise.
This is the good work I counsel you to do, but you won't
do it." I smiled at this fine speech, and asked the slave-
merchant to give up his trade, go to Mecca, and carry
out that which he so eloquently recommended me to do.
This turning the thing on himself displeased him, and the
zealous preacher dropped his sermon in a moment.
Fezzan, with its numerous and large oases, offers for
investigation to the physiologist, the three distinct species
or varieties of the human race which overspread aU
Central Africa, viz., The Arabs and Moors, the Touaricks,
and the Negroes, — and these aU mixed and blended
together, of aU shades of colour, stature, and configura
tion. The Arabs and Moors abound this side Mourzuk.
Sebhah and Zeghen are aU Arabs and Moors. The
Touaricks are found in the Wady Ghurbee, and are
occupied chiefly in a pastoral Ufe, leading their flocks
through open Desert. Some live in the vUlages of The
Wady. But these Touaricks are not subjects of the
chieftains of Ghat. The Negroes begin at Mourzuk, and
extend south in aU the districts of Fezzan, as far as the
Tibboos. Ghatroun, I am informed, has an entire popu
lation of coloured people, under the protection of a
Marabout. * The Sanctum Sanctorum of the Temple of Mecca.
t The names of the five times of the day when Mussulmans
pray.

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 397
16th. — Another day lost. We stop here to-day to
take in water, (as if we did not arrive soon enough yes
terday to take in water for a hundred times our number,)
and to let the camels feed. Felt, however, excessively
weak, and very nervous to-day. At one moment, I
seemed as if I were placed in an exhausting-receiver,
and was about to give up the ghost. It's perhaps as
well for my health, we don't go on quicker. According
to the report of the Fezzaneers, there is fever in every
oasis during the summer, and considerable mortality.
Eating dates continuaUy in the summer must create a
great deal of heat in the system, and thus it is not sur
prising that fever prevaUs.
Evening, just at sunset, the Mandara slave came near
to my encampment and mumbled something to my Negro
servant. Looking at him, I saw he asked. Said to beg
me to do something on his behalf. In a few minutes, a
slave belonging to another master came up to him and
began to console him, saying, "Go, go." They both
then took up handfuls of sand and scattered it upon
their foreheads and chins, as if performing some incan
tations to avert an impending evil. This done, they
both burst into tears, and sobbed aloud. By this time,
I learnt from Said that Haj Essnousee had sent for the
Mandara slave to beat him. I then asked, " For what ?"
The slaves replied, "For nothing." This I could not
believe. Looking towards the encampment of Essnousee,
I saw the slave-driver greatly excited, and heard him
caU to two other slaves, " Fetch him, fetch him." These
slaves, (I almost cursed them in my heart,) came running
to my encampment like two bloodhounds, and seized the
wretched slave, their brother in bondage, and dragged

398 THE GREAT DESERT.
him off to the enraged slave-driver. The poor fellow,
from fear and trembUng, could not stand upon his legs,
and was held up by his captors. The Mandara slave
being brought to Essnousee, and the two captors having
pinned him down, this ferocious Moor took him aside
and flogged him with a huge slave-whip untU The
Desert was literaUy fiUed with his cries ! continuing to
flagilate his bare body until he (Essnousee) was himself
exhausted by administering the brutal flogging. The
Arabs of our caravan, who were near, got upon their
legs, from sheer annoyance at the sound of the whip and
the cries of the slave, but, Uke dastardly wretches, con
tented themselves with looking on, silent and motionless.
I felt, at the time, extreme contempt for what are called
" the brave and gallant sons of The Desert." I was not
near enough, on my journey to Tripoli, to justify any
effectual interference on my part. Afterwards I went
up to Haj Essnousee and asked him, why he had flogged
the slave ? He answered stiU greatly excited, " He'U
not eat ; he's a devU ; it is necessary there should be one
devil amongst my slaves." His nephew observed, as a
hopeful pupU of his mercUess uncle, " He's a thief, he
robs us." This is the only satisfaction I could get ; but
from the rest of the caravan I learnt that the poor
Mandara slave was flogged for no other reason except to
gratify the capricious cruelty of Essnousee. This Sockna
Moor was born to be a slave-dealer and slave-driver, a
cunning ferocity and genuine Moorish sensuality being
impressed upon his Cain-Uke countenance. I was enabled
to study his character on our way, but study was scarcely
requisite to discover the mark of the first murderer
stamped on his brow. When too indolent to beat his

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 399
slaves he would throw stones at them ; when flogging the
female slaves, if he could not succeed in rousing their sen-
sibiUties as they dropped from exhaustion in The Desert,
he would poke up their persons with a stick. This
Saharan viUain was thoroughly imbued with the prin
ciple of an English duke, " That he (Haj Essnousee) had
a right to do what he liked with his own," and did not
scruple to mutUate a slave to satisfy his demoniac caprice,
in spite of its losing half of its price or value in the
market. Poor miserables are those pro-slavery writers,
who argue that a man wiU take care of his slaves because
they are his own property ! Why did not the imperial
tyrants of Rome defend the liberties of their people,
because they were their own people ? Neither human
nor divine law can permit any man, even a good man, to
have absolute property in his feUows, much less a bad
man or a tyrant. But Haj Essnousee is not altogether
an unmixed monster; he has something of enterprise and
an active intelligence about him, to redeem him from
complete execration. Seeing me disconcerted about his
whipping the slave, he observed,
"There are two fine wells here, have you written
them ? You must give a good account of everything to
your Sultan."
I then returned to the other slave-masters, owners of
seven slaves, and said, " Why do you let a poor wretch
be flogged to death in this way and not interfere ? "
They replied, " Oh, you yourself should interefere ;
we're frightened at Haj Essnousee."
I. — " You then wish me' to interfere, — I, who am a
Christian, and an EngUshman, and we English have no
slaves,— and you wish me to meddle with your business ?"

400 THE GREAT DESERT.
Another Moor said, " Ah, Yakob, we know if it had
been a Christian flogging a Christian, you would have
interfered. But we are an accursed race, our merchants
fear not God. And when one does wrong, another wUl
not speak to him, and teU him he does wrong to himself
and God."
After this we had no more flogging to Sockna. I
hinted to these people, something might be said by the
English Consul to the Bashaw of TripoU about this
flogging work. The remark was probably reported to
Essnousee. I made up my mind, if the poor feUow was
flogged again, to get him to run away at Tripoli, or into
a consulate, and then divulge the affair. It may be
mentioned here, that two days before arriving at Sockna,
I turned to look at one of the female slaves, who was
last of aU, and being driven along by the whip, with
several others, and thought I saw symptoms of insanity
marked in her face. " Why," I observed to the driver,
"this woman is mad!" "Mad!" he replied; "No, she
went blind yesterday." On examining her, I found she
was both blind and mad from over-driving. What a
happiness if the poor creature had died or been flogged
to death ! She would then have escaped two of the
heaviest of human calamities, as weU as the curse of
slavery. 1 7th. — On leaving Omm-El-Abeed, after a couple of
hours, we traversed some sand hUlocks, aU dismounting
to lighten the camels. The sand deceived my vision
frequently in walking. Looking at some heaps over
which I was pacing, I imagined them at a considerable
distance off, when, to my amazement, I found them under
my feet in an instant. It might be partly owing to the

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 401
dizziness of riding. The sand was a deep shining red.
At another time a hillock of sand seemed projecting
near my face, and putting out my hand to feel it, I
found nothing but thin air. More sand encumbers this
route than that between Ghadames and Ghat. After a
couple of hours of sand we ascended an elevated rocky
plateau, continuing our route north till night. This was
a long, long day, full of weariness and misery. Nothing
for the camels to eat, and we were obliged to give them
dates. The poor slaves drooped and were dumb. The
frown of God was stamped on this region ! For —
" Here rocks alone and trackless sands are found,
And faint and sickly winds for ever howl around."
18th. — Continued our course over the plateau. It
was now become hard sun-baked earth, and bare of
herbage. As upon the plain of the celebrated Tenez-
rouft, objects here become greatly magnified in the
distance, exceeding the most powerful magnifying lens.
In the simple and bold language of our camel-drivers,
"A man becomes a camel, and a camel becomes a
mountain," Some bones of a camel, at a distance
of less than a quarter of a mUe, looked like a living
camel going along with several people, the white bones
representing the burnouses of the men. A smaU white
stone, not ten inches high, appeared to be several feet in
height, at the distance of a quarter of an hour's ride.
And so of the few other discernible objects on this wide
expanse of optical delusion. Mirage was seen at times,
but nothing pretty. We encamped late, midway through
the vast plateau, when shadowy night began to establish
her sable throne, in " rayless majesty," over this silent,
VOL. II. 2 D

402 THE GREAT DESERT.
sombre Desert. On such a horrid waste as this, when
crime and murder shall have depopulated the world, the
last man will breathe his last sigh! Another long and
weary day was this. With difficulty could I descend
from my camel, and when I did, I was unable to stand.
My plan is, immediately on descending from the camel
to take a table-spoonful of rum and swaUow it neat.
This restores me to a consciousness of the objects around
me, and then I Ue down an hour, whilst supper is
preparing. An hour's rest generally enables me to get
up and walk. If restored sufficiently, I go to chat half
an hour with my companions of travel; if not, I never
rise tUl the next morning. I found the rum of essen
tial advantage in restoring me to consciousness. I am
indebted to the Greek Doctor for it. One bottle
lasted me from Mourzuk to four days within reaching
Tripoli. 19th. — Continued the route of the plateau till the
afternoon, when with a low range of mountains on our
left, we entered a hilly undulating country, having stones,
some good sized blocks, scattered thick over all the
surface of the ground. In the smaU intervening valleys
were a few acacias, and a little herbage for our camels.
But behold a wonder ! At noon, we passed through one
of these small vaUeys, when to my thorough and com
plete amazement, we found a few men and a tent pitched.
Doing what ? Oh, wonder of wonders ! These men
were digging a well at the command of the Turks !
Formerly the Turks in Barbary did nothing but fill up
the wells, or let them be filled up. Another day has
dawned over "the spirit of their dream." The Ottomans
now begin to see that they must step forward in the

FROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 403
march of improvement, or be blotted out of existence,
as a nation of the earth. This is the most difficult part
of the route in coming up from Tripoli to Mourzuk, and
the object of digging the weU is to reduce the distance
where water may be taken in to two and a half or
three days, instead of four or five, which is now the case.
The new well is already dug very deep, and I am sorry
this extraordinary enterprise of the Turks, that of dig
ging a weU in The Desert, has not yet been crowned
with success. Water would be found at last, but I have
my misgivings about their perseverance. The French
scientific officers, who have examined the Saharan dis
tricts of Algeria, are of opinion, that Artesian weUs
might be bored through every part of The Desert, and
aU these vast soUtudes be linked together with chains of
wells. Nothing is too great for the enterprising genius
of man !
We encamped late in one of these valleys. The
male slaves went to fetch wood. They were benighted,
and could not return, or find their way back. A horse-
pistol was fired three times, and these reports brought
them into the encampment. Our Moors recommend me,
when at any time benighted in The Desert, never to
move, but wait for some sign or signal, or report of fire
arms, or until a person be sent in pursuit of me. This
the slaves did, and were enabled to return. Had they
wandered about, they would probably have got a long
way out of the track, or from the encampment, and
not heard the report of the pistol. To show the im
providence of our Moors, we had only just powder enough
for these three discharges.
20th. — Continued through the undulating country
2 d 2

404 THE GREAT DESERT.
until we got fairly amidst massy mountainous groups of
considerable altitude. These mountains are covered
with small blocks of black (iron) stone, and ferruginous
shingle. These immense groups are called Gibel Asoud,
"Black Mountain." I went, on foot, with Essnousee and his
slaves, " the short-cut," or mountain footpath of Nifdah,
leaving the camels to go round by the other, or camel route,
of En-Nishka. I found, however, this " short-cut" a very
long one, and dreadfuUy fatiguing. I recommend all
travellers never to believe in the short-cuts of the Arabs,
for they are sure to be deceived. These people have no
ideas of distance or time. Only conceive a weak and
exhausted traveUer, like myself, cUmbing up and down
groups of mountains for two weary hours. At length
we descended into the valley where is the well of
Ghotfa. We only remained an hour to rest, and drank
a little water, not encamping at the well. We pro
ceeded to meet the camels by the camel route. On
overtaking them, we encamped at night-faU. This was
another long and weary day, and made our fourth from
Omm-El-Abeed. Our slaves were exhausted to the utter
most ; their song, with which they were wont to cheer
themselves, was never heard: their plaintive choruses
never broke over the silence of Desert ! It was to-day,
whilst threading the precipitous mountain-path, I observed
the unhappy negress, who went blind and mad by over
driving. Our route to-day is graphically described by
Denham, and the passage being short, I shall copy it. "We
had now to pass the Gibel Asoud, or Black Mountain.
The northernmost part of this basaltic chain commences
on leaving Sockna. We halted at Melaghi (or place of
meeting) ; immediately at the foot of the mountain is the

PROM MOURZUK TO SOCKNA. 405
well of Agutifa (Ghotfa,) and from hence, probably, the
most imposing view of these heights will be seen. To the
south, the mountain-path of Nifdah presents its black
overhanging peaks, the deep chasm round which the
path winds, bearing a most cavern-like appearance. A
little to the west, the camel-path, called En-Nishka,
appears scarcely less difficult and precipitous, the more
southern crags close the landscape, while the foreground
is occupied by the dingy and barren Wady of Agutifa,
with the weU immediately overhung by red ridges of lime
stone and clay, the whole presenting a picture of barrenness
not to be perfectly described either by poet or painter."
By this craggy gorge the plateau above-mentioned is
entered, and it is frequently by such gorges, which seem
to be the buttresses of the plateaus, that the elevated
Saharan plains are approached.
About noon we met a reinforcement of Arab cavalry
on their way to Mourzuk, to intercept the son of Abd-El-
Geleel, in the event of his returning during the spring
to Egypt or the Syrtis. I found the reputed six reduced
to two hundred men, and most triste cavaliers, mounted
on still more miserable horses. The stories which we
have read of the fondness of the Arab for his horse were
sadly belied by the fact of the condition of this troop.
Indeed, an Arab treats his horse much in the same way
as his wife — most miserably bad. This triste troop,
worthy the command of the Knight of La Mancha, was a
faithful picture of the wretched condition of the pro
vince of Tripoli. On passing me, some saluted, aud
others stared. Said met a former fellow-slave of the
island of Jerbah going under the protection of this
escort. The freed slave gave a confused account of the

406 THE GREAT DESERT.
last act of abolition of the Bey of Tunis. He was on
his way to Begharmy, his native country. I observed a
Turkish officer, having a sort of sedan-chair, swinging on
the back of a camel, a good thing for an European
female traveUing in these countries, and not a bad thing
for a worn-down emaciated tourist like myself. I envied
him this Desert luxury.
2 1st.— Started with the first solar rays, and as we
journeyed on, the valley of Ghotfa widened, till we found
ourselves traversing an immense plain, at the extreme
north of which, and on the west, we saw the palms of
Sockna. We had seen them yesterday indistinctly from
the peaks of Gibel Asoud. We continued our route for
four hours, when we arrived at Sockna. There is still
a goodly number of palms, notwithstanding the thou
sands destroyed by Abd-El-Geleel when besieging this
place. The trunks of the destroyed palms stiU remain,
and look like a leafless forest in winter, or as if blasted
with lightning. But these Arabs, either in budding up
or in throwing down, never do their work effectually.
Tired of their work of destruction, they thus, happUy,
left the inhabitants a considerable number of palms,
affording a good stock of dates. We were met near the
gates of the city by the friends and relatives of our
people. Some of them gave me a salute, but I am now
so half-Moorishly dressed, or Turk-like, that I am not
readily distinguished as a Christian. When within the
walls, the heat and the refraction of the sun's rays from
the stone walls were so intense, that I reaUy thought
my face would have been burnt up. With a little
patience we were domicUed in the dark room of an
empty house, where I went to bed at 3 p.m., and did

PROM mourzuk to sockna. 407
not get up till the evening of the next day. During
these hot sultry glaring days in Desert, how grateful is
darkness, — how much better than light. On arriving
at a station, I find it the best thing possible to lie down
an hour or two, and, if in a town, where we are to
remain a few days, to go to bed at once. This is the only
way to recover effectuaUy, and far better than food or
stimulants. Since leaving Tripoli I have not performed
a more arduous journey than these last five days. Our
days' journeys were at least fourteen or fifteen hours
long. In summer it requires seven days, or five short
days and five long nights. On the road, there were no
animals or living creatures, except a few lizards, starting
from under the camel's feet, as if to look who we were,
and ask why we had come to disturb their solitary bask
ing in the sun; and a few swallows, which seemed to
foUow us to the weU, or to the shores of the Mediter
ranean, whence they wiU now skim their airy way to
the more temperate clime of Europe. I think, also, we
saw two birds not unlike snipes. But we shall soon
get within the region of birds and beasts.

408

CHAPTER XXIX.
RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA.
Visit to the Turkish Kaed of Sockna, — The Concubine of His Ex
cellency. — Convoy of Provisions for the Troops of Mourzuk. —
The number of Palms destroyed at Sockna by Abd-El-Geleel. —
Population of Sockna, and position of the Oasis. — Visit to the
Sockna Maraboutess. — The Lady honoured with " Stigmata," or
" Holy Marks." — Propriety or impropriety of assuming the
Moorish Character and the Mahometan Religion whilst Travel
ling in Sahara. — Gardens of the Environs. — Find several old
Charms in my Lodgings. — Commerce and Merchants of Sockna.
— Second Visit to the Maraboutess ; her Character and Occupa
tion. — Visit the Kaed; he compliments Christians. — Panoramic
view from the Castle of Sockna. — Description of the Castle. —
Third Visit to the Maraboutess. — Few Children in Sahara. —
The little Turk or Kaed suffering under the power of Epsom,
and very unwell. — Arrival of another Convoy. — Rain in North
Africa. — Parallel Ideas between The East and Africa.
22nd. — Got up to write a little of my journal; found
myself greatly recovered. Essnousee called, and we
went to see the Turkish Governor in the evening. The
Governor is caUed Kaed, Bey, and generaUy Mudeer
Suleiman, by the people. We found his ExceUency in
the midst of his business, squatting tailor-like upon a
raised bench of mud and lime, covered with a carpet.
The Mudeer seemed happy enough, his secretary sitting
below at his feet. He was very glad to see me, " For
people," he observed, "don't see Christians every day in
this horrid country." The Mudeer made me mount
his throne by his side, giving me his superfine cushion
to repose on, talking all the time; "Foolish men, you

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 409
Christians, to come to these horrible countries." From
this elevated position I was enabled to survey his Ex
cellency's receiving apartment, with the adjoining one.
It was a rich and varied scene ; only Dickens could do
justice to any description of these state-rooms of the
Castle of Sockna. We had first the Mudeer, a little
dirty mean-looking Turk, most shabbily attired, with
some fifty or sixty winters on his Ottoman brow, but with
a sufficiently good-natured face. The Mudeer has been
only two months in Sockna. He was sent from Mourzuk,
and enjoys the confidence of Hasan Belazee. Before
him there was another Turkish Kaed of Sockna. The
continual jealousies and rivalries in these towns prevent
the Pacha from appointing them one of their native
Sheikhs. The Mudeer has been four years in Barbary,
but, Uke aU the Turks, speaks Arabic very badly, with a
most detestable accent. The apartment of the Kaed is
a portion of the Castle, the passages to which are a mass
of ruins, and you are afraid of the walls or ceilings of
dilapidated rooms tumbling on your head. Sockna, like
Mourzuk, has its Castle, separated from the town. The
Mudeer's room is a wretched dirty barn, with a large
mud fire-place in the centre. Around it are now seated
a number of Moors, talking violently and quarreUing.
The Kaed cannot understand them, and caUs out,
"What is it? what is it?" "Oh, nothing," they scream
out in turn, "we're only talking amongst ourselves."
The Turk turns to me : — " Christian, I am a Kaed of
beasts, not men. Drink your coffee now." There is
always a great mixture of freedom and awe, as it may
happen, in the intercourse between the Turks and
Moors. But the prime feature of the scene now under

410 THE GREAT DESERT.
consideration, is the Sockna doxy, whom the little
dirty Turk has closeted in an adjoining room. At
first she peeps out, but seeing only a Christian has
come in, she becomes more famUiar, and at last saUies
out boldly, and begins romping with the Kaed's Negro
lad. This is a great lout of a feUow, who can't keep
from grinning. The Nigger lout is dressed in the
clothes of the new Turkish troops, and, as might be
expected, there is a rent behind, from which issues his
dirty linen, in aU its nasty splendour. This the doxy now
seizes hold of, to the infinite amusement of his Excel
lency the Governor, his Secretary, and various courtiers,
as likewise myself. The lady herself is not quite a
Desert maiden, skipping Uke a young roe over the moun
tains, in untutored innocence or coyish bashfulness. She
is young, it is true, but fuU-blown and bloated, very big
about, and excessively dirty and nasty. The favourite
of the Mudeer is besides almost as black as a Negress, with
a pock-marked face. After dodging about with the Negro
clown some ten minutes, her eye catches the shape of a
huge Ul-looking Turkish feUow, walking heavily into our
apartment, or haU of audience, and the Moorish damsel
immediately retires to her private boudoir.
I was not aware of the presence in Sockna of another
Turk. He is in charge of a convoy of provisions for
the troops of Mourzuk, consisting of eighty camels laden
with oil, and rice, and mutton fat, boiled down. The
convoy has been detained ten days for want of camels. The
officer had been on as far as Ghotfa Wady, and returned,
his miserable camels dropping and dying. These pro
visions are conveyed at the expense of the principal
towns through which the convoy passes. The discussion

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 411
going on to-day between the Kaed and the Sockna
people, was about obtaining the requisite number of
camels. The Kaed I now heard exclaim, " By G — d,
after to-morrow the camels must go !" The people,
" Impossible ! they wiU die, they wUl die." I could
obtain no news from the Turk escorting the convoy. He
was an ignorant beast. But, curious enough, the fellow
was dressed as much like an European as he could well
be so traveUing, with neckcloth, jacket, trousers strapped
over black shoes, and a large pair of leather gloves, which
he told me he found very useful in keeping the sun from
burning his hands.
During my interview, the circumstance of Abd-El-
Geleel cutting down the palms of the suburbs because
the Sockna people would not surrender to his summons,
or acknowledge his authority, was mentioned. The
number cut down by the besieging Sheikh, from 20,000
was now raised to 120,000. Of course, this is exagge
ration. Unfortunately, however, the Sheikh destroyed
nearly aU the best palms, those bearing most delicious
fruit, and which palms have rendered Sockna dates so
celebrated, whUst he left aU the worst to spite the
people. It wUl require seven years merely to replace
them as fruit-bearing palms, and thirty or fifty years to
mature palms yielding fruit of the quantity and quality
of those destroyed. This it is which fiUs aU Sockna
people with a thirst of vengeance to extirpate root and
branch the family of Abd-El-Geleel. The people them
selves have offered Government to defray the expense of
an expedition to Bornou, to cut off his son and all the
Oulad Suleiman. Essnousee, a good patriot, swears he
will not rest until he has had vengeance upon the Oulad

412 THE GREAT DESERT.
Suleiman ; yet he is afraid to go to Bornou again whilst
they are there. He says : — " We (Sockna people)
muster 2,000 men, all fighting men, not women or
chickens, like the people of Ghadames. We fight like
the French. Our country is like France. The Bashaw
sends no troops to our assistance. He knows we can
defend ourselves." It is a fact they have no troops
here, although Sockna is the most important town of
these upper provinces. Since the conquest of Algiers by
the French, the Moors think France the greatest military
nation upon the face of the earth. If we reckon the
adult males of Sockna at the half of Essnousee's esti
mate, the general population wiU be something like this
amount : —
Men
WomenChUdren and slaves .
Total . . 5,500 „
Sockna is often spoken of as distinct from the districts
of Fezzan, and so it reaUy is ; but others include both it
and Bonjem within the circle of these clusters of oases,
forming one province. The Turkish Kaed is more or less
dependant on the Bashaw of Mourzuk. His salary is not
very extravagant, twenty-five dollars per mensem. His
ExceUency may make a little besides on his own account,
for this is hardly enough to keep him. Sockna is placed
in 29° 5' 36" north latitude, and has always been an
emporium of trade on the ancient line of communication
between Northern and Central Africa. In many re
spects Sockna is like Ghadames. The principal inhabit-

1,000 souls

1,500 „

3,000 „

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 413
ants are a few rich merchants ; provisions are scarce,
everything being imported, as the gardens afford but a
scanty supply of edible products, and all things are
extremely dear. Leo mentions that, in his times, both
Ghadames and Fezzan were dear places, and food scarce.
23rd. — Much better to-day in health, and rose early.
Wrote several letters, which were not sent on, curiosities
in their way, and scarcely now legible. Afternoon sent
a letter by the Shantah (courier) to Mr. Gagliuffi. It
will reach Mourzuk in eight days. A letter is also eight
days getting to TripoU, in the opposite direction. This
evening aU the town was occupied in buying a few sheep.
What people for business are these Moors ! The sheep
were brought out, one by one, and bid for, as at an
auction. They were cheap, from two and a half dollars
to three each.
Called upon some Sockna ladies, whose acquaintance
I made through the nephew of Essnousee. They were his
relations, and received us very kindly, en famille. These
ladies were occupied with worsted embroidery, at which
they earn a few paras. One is a Maraboutah, or Mara
boutess. She reads and writes a little, and this, with a
mind prone to religious ideas, constitutes her a saint.
Few are the Moorish or Arab female saints, for woman
is hardly dealt with by the Mahometan faith. There is
a celebrated tutelary goddess, or Maraboutah, near the
city of Tunis, who is invoked by all the women of the
country, and a pilgrimage is made to her shrine every
morning. The remarkable circumstance about this
Sockna Maraboutess is, that she is very weak about the
loins and cannot walk upright, being frequently carried
about. She says, and the people confirm her testimony,

414 THE GREAT DESERT.
she has "holy marks" upon her, imprinted by some
supernatural being ; I think the angel Gabriel was men
tioned. This reminds me of the " Stigmata" of Saint
Francis of Assisi, for doubting which " canonical fact,"
Pope Ugolino was very near anathematizing the Bishop
of Olmutz. I therefore shaU not doubt this prodigy,
equally well authenticated, lest I incur the excommuni
cation of the good people of Sockna. I had not the
pleasure of seeing the " holy marks" of the Maraboutess,
they being imprinted on an unobserved portion of her
body, but I cannot question their existence. It is won
derful (a far greater prodigy !) what are the analogies of
religion and superstition. How like the feeling and
the sentiment ! and in this case the very corporal marks
of the body ! I asked the Maraboutess if she would
prefer the use of her limbs to these " holy marks." She
answered very quietly and properly, " As God wiUs, so I
will." The Sockna saint then put to me this question,
"If the English knew and worshipped God?" How
many times has this question been asked ! And yet we,
in the pride of our conceit, imagine that we monopolize
all religion, as weU as aU virtue and science, presuming
all the world knows it, and recognizes our superiority.
My Maraboutess was pleased to hear that the English
knew God.
2ith. — Copied a letter or two. Since my return,
looking over the published journal of the Bornou expe
dition, I find this paragraph under the rubric of Sockna.
" And in this way we entered the town : the words
Inglesi ! Inglesi ! were repeated by a hundred voices
from the crowd. This, to us, was highly satisfactory, as
we were the first English travellers in Africa who had

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 415
resisted the persuasion that a disguise was necessary, and
who had determined to travel in our real character as
Britons and Christians %," &c. "In trying to make our
selves appear as Mussulmans, we should have been set
down as real impostors." This is a most extraordinary
passage. The reader will hardly believe, or really cannot
believe after this, that these very parties themselves
were circumcised and attended the mosques. But such
was the case ; I had it from unquestionable authority.
This is altogether too bad. A little decorating of an
* This is probably an allusion to the following observations of
Captain Lyon, in justification of his assuming the Mahometan
religion : — " It may be necessary before I take leave of Mourzuk,
and indeed of Tripoli, to explain that our adoption of the Moorish
costume was by no means a sufficient safeguard in either of those
places, or in traversing the interior of Africa; for, though it might,
to a casual observer, blind suspicion, yet when we had occasion to
remain for a time at any place, or to perform journeys in company
with strangers, we found that it was absolutely requisite to conform
to all the duties of the Mohammedan religion, as well as to assume
their dress. To this precaution I attribute our having met with so
little hindrance in our proceedings ; for had we openly professed
ourselves Christians, we might, in Fezzan, have experienced many
serious interruptious ; whilst farther in the interior, even our lives
would have been in continual jeopardy. The circumstance of our
having come from a Christian country, which we always acknow
ledged, frequently rendered us liable to suspicion; but by attending
constantly at the established prayers, and occasionally acknow
ledging the divine mission of Mahomet; or, more properly, by
repeating, ' There is no God but God, Mahomet is his Prophet,' we
were enabled to overcome all doubts respecting our faith." It must
be added, in justice to Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, that since 1821 a
vast change has been wrought in the minds of the Moors of North
Africa, and especially with regard to Englishmen. When even
Denham and Clapperton visited Mourzuk, they were not allowed to
reside in the town, but kept in the castle, under the special protec
tion of the Bashaw, lest anything should befall them from the pre
judices of the people.

416 THE GREAT DESERT.
incident, or a conversation, I imagine, is allowed to the
traveller, but this circumstance can hardly be passed by
without animadversion. However, when this was written,
the most conscientious man of the party (Oudney) was
dead. Clapperton did not write this portion of the
journal : for its composition Denham alone seems to be
responsible. I shall add no more, thanking God, that,
with all my follies, I did not commit such a folly, as first
to ape the Mussulman, and then repudiate it in print
before the world.
25th. — Took a walk and went to see the Kaed. His
ExceUency was sitting outside, washed and clean shaved,
for once whUst I saw him, with a thin white burnouse
thrown over his shoulders. It was a saint's day with
him. His Excellency presented to me a cup of coffee
without sugar, but, Turk-like, when indulging in their
dreamy taciturnity, did not open his lips. However I
had nothing to say to him, nor he to me. Afterwards I
strolled through the suburbs to botanize. Visited the
nearest garden, and found the slaves occupied in irri
gating it. An old Moor gave me a little horticultural
information. It requires twelve years for growing a
good fruit-bearing palm ; but, he admitted, a palm might
bear fruit within seven or eight years. Observed a male
palm. Instead of white flowers which the female palm
has at this season, the male has enormously long
broad hard pods, but also contains flowers. When the
flowers are fit for germination the pods wiU burst. The
flowers are then thrown over the female palm to produce
impregnation. The madder-root is here cultivated ; it is
watered every third day. The leaves are cropped often,
but the root requires three years to come to perfection.

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 417
Wheat and barley are watered in Sockna every other
day. Observed the tree caUed gharod, or gharoth, or
gurd ; it bears a seed-pod which is used in tanning
leather, from its great astringency. In all the Sockna
gardens this tree abounds. It is a species of mimosa,
with a yeUow flower, and small delicate leaves like the
acacia. It is a pretty tree, high, and spreading, perhaps
twenty feet in height. The seed-pod is sold one quarter
doUar the Fezzan kael, or measure, half a peck or so.
The gurd is also employed medicinally. I was glad to
see several young palms recently planted. I love pro
gress; everything in the shape and style of progress
delights me. Would to God the entire Desert was
covered with palms. But man would be just as corrupt
and unthankful ! Being shut up in a dark room three
or four days, I felt the sun disagreeable, paining my eyes.
In returning, I stopped at a school and wrote for the
boys, which delighted them beyond measure.
A man, ran away to-day with his three camels,
not liking Government work, which is usually per
formed by Moors and Arabs for the Turks at a price less
than nothing. Some of the Kaed's officers went in pur
suit of him. Evening, caUed on the Kaed, and found
his flaming concubine extended at her fuU length upon
his elevated seat of authority. His Excellency himself,
meanwhile, had stepped out of the Castle to look after
the camels. The Bashaw of Mourzuk has sent him a
wigging letter for the delay in sending up the convoy
of provisions. Picked up several old charms in my
VOL. II. 2 E

418

THE GREAT DESERT.

room to-day. They had been placed over the threshold
of the door to keep out the Evil One. Sometimes they
are tied round the necks of camels, and even placed on
trees, especiaUy at the time when bearing fruit, for
the purpose of preserving the camel from mange, or
the tree from bhght. These tahsmans usuaUy have a
diagram of this and other shapes, with certain Arabic
signs, letters, words, and sentences, written within and
without.

*£.Sylt ( . ^l»=»jjj iOtH .(VU

CT

t

j

f

(J

IH

d

+

r5

'A

</>

7T

Cj

It wUl be seen that some of the signs are Greek
letters. I brought with me three of these charms from
The Desert ; one to obtain me a good reception from the
English Sultan on my return; another to conduct me
safely to Timbuctoo, should I be disposed to attempt the
journey ; and the third to procure for me a pretty wife.
My charms have not yet compassed these various inter
esting objects, but they infallibly wUl do so. The taleb
who wrote them gets his Uving by writing charms, and is
very successful in his craft. His paper squibs rarely
miss fire, and when they do it is not the fault of the
charms but that of the person who wears them. It is

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 419
necessary to kiss them frequently and fervently, and
repeat over them the name of God*.
26th. — We were to have started to-day, but, as usual,
delay. Time is not the estate of these people ; rather it
is their lavish, valueless waste. Called early on his
ExceUency. Coffee without sugar. His Excellency very
merry, because he had sent off the oil, grease, and rice
caravan. What a pother it was — it was like the starting
of an expedition to conquer aU Central Africa! His
ExceUency's concubine stiU occupies the seat of honour,
where she frequently goes to sleep. The courtiers of his
* As a suitable accompaniment of Mussulman charms, I add, in
a note, the following specimen of a Christian charm, which I found
in the letter of the Times' Swiss correspondent. — (See Times, 10th
Dec, 1847):—
" More — I have seen some curious little brass amulets, with the
effigy of the Virgin on one side and the Cross on the other, which
were sold in great numbers to the people as charms against all pos
sible injuries in battle. Those sold at seven and ten batzen (about
lOd. and 15d. of our money) were efficacious against musket and
carbine balls; those at twenty batzen (about half-a-crown) were
proof against cannon shot also! The purchasers of these medals
were also presented with a card, of which the following is a verbatim
transcript, capitals, italics, and all : —
'0 MARIE
CONCUE SANS PECHE,
PBIEZ POUR NOUS QUI AVONS BECOURS A VOUS !
' Quiconque, portant une medaille miraculeuse, recite avec piete
cette invocation, se trouve place sous la protection speciale de la
Mere de Dieu; c'est une promesse de Marie Elle Meme.'
Which, being interpreted — if indeed I may be excused for pro
faning the honest English tongue with such blasphemy — is,
' Oh Mary [--conceived without sin — pray for us who have re
course to you. Any one carrying a miraculous medal, who recites
with piety the above invocation, becomes placed under the especial
protection of the Mother of God. This is a promise made by Mary
herself.' "
2 E 2

420 THE GREAT DESERT.
ExceUency wink at this Uttle peccadillo. Essnousee
remarked to me it was aU right ; " The Mudeer must
have some sort of a wife." Had some conversation with
an intelligent Moor on the trade of Sockna. It ap
pears the merchants are in the same predicament as
those of Ghadames. They are aU without capital, and
are virtually commission-agents of the Jewish and Chris
tian merchants in Tripoli. They receive their goods on
giving bills for six, nine, and twelve months. These
goods they carry to Mourzuk and Ghat, exchanging them
for slaves and other produce of the interior. After
wards they return to Tripoli, sell their slaves and goods,
pay off their old debts, and contract new engagements.
MeanwhUe they have scarcely a para to caU their own.
Therefore European merchants, aided by native Jews, are
the bond fide supporters of the traffic of slaves in
Sahara. Visited my dearest lady-saint, or Maraboutess, this
evening. The Saint. — "In a short time I am going to Beit
Allah ('house of God,' or Mecca)."
"Indeed!" I replied.
" Yes, there I shaU repose under the shadow of the
Holy Place, resting my poor broken limbs and spending
my days in fervent prayer, preparing myself for heaven :"
continued the pious lady.
The Traveller. — " What shaU you do in Paradise ?"
The Lady. — " I shaU eat and drink well, and be dressed
in sUk."
The Traveller. — "Shall you have a husband?"
The Lady.—" Yes."
The Traveller. — " Shall you bear children !"

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 421
The Lady.— "No."
The Traveller. — "Where is Paradise?"
The Lady. — " God knows, you don't know*."
This good amiable lady is somewhat spirituelle for a
Mooress, and makes Uvely and apposite remarks on
other things, as weU as religion. The Maraboutess may
be twenty-five or thirty years of age, not good-looking,
neither disagreeable. A dark complexion, a promi
nent aquihne nose, a fine gazeUe-Uke eye, and hard-look
ing features are overshadowed with a triste and melan
choly expression, from the circumstance of her being
continuaUy an invalid. I saw the poor thing was so weak
that she could not stand upright. The saint said, with
a heavy sigh, as she attempted to move about, "If I
were to go to TripoU, would you give me a ride on your
camel?" I answered, "Every morning a couple of
hours," during which time I always walk. She then
complained of her poverty. She did not know how she
should get money enough to go on her pUgrimage to
Mecca. If God had given her the strength of others,
she would have walked bare-foot over The Desert. I
consoled her by saying, that, being a saint, aU the pious
Moslems would reUeve her. She would get a ride from
one and another, and God would soon help her over the
dreary Desert. The Maraboutess was busy embroider
ing in coloured worsted, chiefly the bodies of frocks,
which are worn by brides on their marriage-days, as
weU as by lady Mooresses on other festivals. In ten
days she earns two shillings, the price of one embroi
dered frock. She has always more than she can do, for
* This is the tiresome, frequently-recurring phrase of the Koran.

422 THE GREAT DESERT.
the women of Sockna consider garments made by her,
" holy robes," and keep them aU their life-time. For the
rest, she, poor thing, lives on alms. She asked, of course,
many questions about women in Christian lands, and was
very much surprised to hear that the supreme ruler of
England was a woman. The Maraboutess observed, how
ever, in her character as such, " What a pity she (the
Queen of England) was not the daughter of Mahomet, Uke
Fatima!" The saintess then asked if Her Majesty had
any children, and was glad to hear she had so many.
Three or four chUdren is a good number for women in
these oases. She was puzzled to know why I was not
married. I told her I could not carry about a wife in
Sahara. Another woman, Ustening, observed, " Why,
you foohsh one, leave her at home till you return."
These ladies then spoke of reUgious rites, and asked me
if a Christian, when he was buried, was placed on his knees.
This notion they have got from our habits of prayer.
Moslems never kneel, properly speaking, at prayer. Their
attitudes at prayer are in style and essence, prostration.
The ladies, growing bolder, began to speak of the " Bad
Place," the ultima thule of Moorish discussion with
Christians, imitating the fire of perdition with their
hands and mouth, wafting the air with those, and blow
ing and puffing with this, and then asked me how I
should Uke "The Fire" (,U!l). But I returned, "Chris
tians say aU Mohammedans wiU go into that fire." This
greatly shocked them, and they asked if I thought so
likewise. I repUed, " AU who fear God, and are good
to their neighbour, may expect to see Paradise, if there
be one." "Ah, that's good!" these proselyting ladies ex
claimed. The Maraboutess was, however, more thought-

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 423
ful. "Do you doubt there is a Paradise?" she asked,
looking me full in the face.
I. — " There must be such a place, at least let us hope
so; for this is a bad world, and everybody in it is
miserable — Sultans and Dervishes."
"God is great!" exclaimed the Maraboutah. She
then begged for medicine to cure her, for although she
had stigmata hke St. Francis, she would rather be cured
of them. I recommended her the baths in Tripoli, and
to put herself under the treatment of the English
doctor. "Oh," she added, "send me some medicine,
and I'U give you some mUk." Then the poor thing,
groaning with an attack of pain, continued, " Do, make
haste." I could do nothing for the poor sufferer. On
returning to my house, I sent her some cream-of-tartar,
and received from her some milk immediately, showing
her high sense of gratitude.
27th. — Visited the little dirty Kaed. He gave me
dates' syrup to drink. It was more delicious than honey.
This syrup is made by pouring fresh water on fresh
dates, and covering up the bowl in which they are
placed, allowing it to stand a night. Only one of the
species of the Sockna dates, but that of the most exqui
site quality, wiU produce this Saharan ambrosia.
Generally, if dates are steeped in water, they will not
produce syrup, and only get a little soft. People never
wash dates. They say it deprives them of their fine
fresh and peculiar date-flavour. When the Mudeer
handed me the bowl to drink the syrup, he observed to
the Moors and his precious doxy, sitting wantonly by his
side, " The Christians are fine people. If in Sockna
you give them a cup of coffee, or a few dates, and see

424 THE GREAT DESERT.
them afterwards in Tripoli they will make you many
compUments, and be very kind to you." This remark
was made spontaneously, having no selfish end. The old
Turk was too much of a gentleman in his way to allow
such a sordid calculation to enter his mind at the time.
I may mention here, a woman observed when I visited
the Maraboutess, (addressing me), " You must send the
medicine, for a Christian mou yakidtheb (never lies)."
It is a pity that these people, who have discernment
enough to see at times the moral superiority of Christians,
should not look a little below the surface and inquire
into its cause. Not, however, that aU Europeans, (or
myself,) deserve these high compliments of gratitude
and love of truth, although, compared to Moors and
Arabs, we are certainly far their superiors in morals.
The little dirty Turk had as usual his fair concubine
installed on the seat of honour. Sockna people say,
" She has no husband," and others, " She is the Kaed's
wife," to make the best of a bad appearance.
28th. — Shut up writing during the morning, but in the
evening paid a visit to the Uttle nasty dirty Turk, and
found the little nasty dirty feUow very civU. His Ex
cellency complained of being very sick. I returned
immediately to fetch him some medicine. Afterwards
we mounted together to the top of the Castle. From
this eminence, we had a splendid view of the environs,
and the various little oases of Sockna and its neighbour
ing desert. The distant mountains form an unbroken
circular line on the pale margin of the sky, except on
the east, where it is indented a little, but of several
heights and colours, giving a fine and more varied effect
to The Desert scene. Within this circle, at the base of

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 425
the various groups, are black-green palms, scattered in
little forests, casting shades on the now white, now light
red, and now purple mountain sides, as if to set off the
perspective of The Desert picture. Here and there are
garden-huts or lodges in the wilderness, so many black
spots within little squares of pale-green patches of corn
cultivation. There is a string of moving dots. What is
that? A caravan winding along its weary way. Not a
bird is seen to wing the ambient air. The atmosphere
generaUy is a pale unpoUshed yeUow, incUning in some
cloudy flakes to red. The Saharan sun now fast
descends, with a feeble heat and exhausted lustre,
showing the near approach of the duU and drowsy step
of shadowy night. There is something about Saharan
views which is peculiar to them and to Africa; every
object is so smoothed down and smoothed over, that the
scenery of Desert looks at a distance more like paint
and picture-work, than the stern realities of the Waste
ful Sahara. And yet these smoothed-down picture-
objects are so weU defined and sharply prominent — aU
the lines traced in the most absolute manner — no blend
ing of shapes or even colours. Mist and misty objects
are not frequent in the African Desert.
The Castle of Sockna would be considered by us a
ruined buUding, and condemned as unsafe to be inha
bited, but here it is always " The Castle." It does not
contain a single good room ; aU is tumbUng to pieces,
and if you don't take care, you wiU fall through some of
the floors, gaping open with large holes at your feet to
let you in. Only one miserable piece of ,cannon was
mounted, and two other pieces of ordnance were lying
" below stairs," corroding most delightfuUy in rust. But

426 THE GREAT DESERT.
the Turks never pretend that this place can make any
serious defence against an enemy. Were indeed a good
piece of ordnance fired from the top of The Castle, the
concussion would knock down aU the part of the building
where it was placed. As it is, a portion of the outer
waUs has fallen down, and the rubbish is scattered up to
the doors of the neighbouring shops. No effort is made
to clear away this rubbish. " Why should it not remain
where God has allowed it to fall ?" says the fate-believing
Moslemite. The owners of the shops creep to their
magazines of merchandize as they best may. I remarked
to the little dirty Turk, who sat with a dreamy stare
looking over The Desert, smoking very unpolitely with
his back to the sun, " This country without question
was formerly in a much better state, and The Castle in
good repair." His Excellency shook his head negatively.
The Turks detest this country, hating its inhabitants
with the most cordial hatred. Yet the lust of rule, (the
object of a fatal ambition in aU Moslemite countries,)
and the right and power of bastinading a man when
they please, reconciles them to The Desert, and to its
weary, dreary, blank mode of existence. For what toys
do men sacrifice the best days of their life, and the most
noble faculties of their being !
Glad to get away from the dirty old Turk. CaUed
later to see my dearest Maraboutess, with whom I was
almost inclined to fall in love. It is a positive reUef to
find something, and somebody amiable in this Desert
of human affections. The saint had many visitors, and
is evidently held in high respect by the inhabitants.
Her female associates sitting by her, asked me, what has
been so often asked before, if the Christian women

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 427
brought three or four chUdren at a birth. From some
cause or other, polygamy, obesity in the women, or the
abuse of the marriage-bed, Saharan females have very
few children. There were five elderly men in our cara
van; all were married, of course, for every man marries
amongst Mahometans. These old gentlemen had not
more than two children each, and one of them none. I
set the Sockna ladies right, teUing them, some of our
women had twins, and now and then three, but that one
was the rule. Every thing about us Christians is exag
gerated. The people of these towns think us a distinct
race from themselves. Such is the effect of religion
when misappUed; it estranges men from one another
instead of drawing them together with the cords of
brotherly affection. An Arab present with us, changing
the subject, asked why I did not go to Bornou, for all
the Oulad Suleiman (Arabs of the Syrtis) up at Bornou
were friends of the English, and one and the same with
them ? He continued, " But let them come here to cut
down again our palms, and we will not leave one of them
alive." I gave the poor Maraboutess a few paras, re
ceived her blessing, and bade her an affectionate adieu.
Happy would be many, if with such bodily afflictions
they could amuse themselves with such blissful visions !
His 'ExceUency presented me with half a pound of
coffee, and told me to beware of the Sockna people, who
would rob me of it if they could.
29th.— CaUed early to visit the " Grand Turk" of the
Castle, and administered to his ExceUency a fuU dose of
genuine Epsom. In turn, he gave me a basin of coffee
with milk, — quite a novelty in The Desert, — which I
thought a splendid exchange. I had a good deal to do

428 THE GEEAT DESERT.
to get him to swallow the Epsom. On caUing to see him
in the afternoon, I found his ExceUency racing about like
a real jockey of Epsom, running out at times very ab
ruptly, to the great amusement of his Sultana, who
admired the effects of the Epsom. CaUed again in the
evening to see my patient, and found his ExceUency suf
fering from what he caUed dysentery, and administered a
couple of small opium piUs. The Turk observed, with
something of a grin, that Christian doctors knew more of
the inside than the outside of a man.
30th. — Another Turk arrived this morning with an
other convoy of provisions from Tripoli. He is twenty
days from that city. He complains of the camels. Cer
tainly I never saw worse camels than these of the Tripo
Une Arabs. The Turk brings good news. Rain has
faUen copiously in The Mountains. It is the " latter rain"
in the Scriptural phrase, verov o^jnfj.ov. The "early
rain," verov irpwi^ov, falls in North Africa about Sep
tember and October. The "latter rain" continues to
AprU, and sometimes faUs in May. In December and
January there is often dry weather, and the finest season
in the year for Europeans. Want of rain in Fezzan and
Sockna is compensated for by the abundance of springs.
These rains in The Mountains wiU establish the rule of
the Turks. It is only a question of provisions. The
want of rain for several years has brought TripoU to the
verge of ruin, and the Sultan is tired of supporting this
Regency. If a few good harvests come, Tripoli wiU sup
port itself. Wrote to Mr. Gagliuffi by this caravan, to
teU him where I was on the 30th of March ! He expects
me by this time to be at Tripoli. We are to leave this
evening.

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 429
Amused myself again by noticing several parallel ideas
between The East and Africa, as found in our Scriptures.
In these countries there is always some one great river ;
for this reason, Moors wiU always have the Nile and the
Niger to be "one great river." Mr. Cooley, in his "Ne
groland of the Arabs," proposes, for the various names
given by ancient and modern geographers to the Niger,
the simple epithet of " The Great River." In The East,
we have, rbv rrorafxov rov fieyav rov Ev<f>pdr7]v (Rev. XVI.
12), " The Great River Euphrates." It is not to be sup
posed the prophets and evangeUsts were instructed in
geography beyond their age. The vial of wrath is not
poured upon Ganges, or Mississippi, or Amazon, but on
Euphrates, the great river of that age and time, although
not of our age and times.
KaXafiov xpwovv (Rev. xxi. 15), "a golden reed."
The term KaXafiov, the root of which are the three conso
nants k\(i, is the same as -Ai", " a reed " first, and after
wards, " a pen made of a reed." It is difficult sometimes
to get reeds in The Desert, and they are carried about from
oasis to oasis. On the salt plains of Emjessem, near
Ghadames, there is a fine lagoon of reeds, of which pens
are made. It is probable the angel wrote the measure
ment of the " Holy Jerusalem" with a reed pen, and not
measured it with a reed, as represented in our version.
Kat rj ryvvT] e<pvyev et? rr)v eprj/iov (Rev. xU. 6), " and
the woman fled to the WUderness." The WUderness, or
Desert, in ancient times, as now, in this part of the
world, was always a place of refuge ; but, as the world
becomes civilized, the WUderness will offer no resource
to the fugitive, and the back-woods of the new colonies
wiU no longer shelter the runaway, or outlaw of society,

430 THE GREAT DESERT.
or the innocent patriot fleeing from the pursuit of his
country's tyrants. Gibbon gives an affecting description
of the fugitive Roman, who found Rome's omnipresent
tyrant in every chme whither he fled, on every soU paced
by his trembling foot. Before this time arrives, let us
hope liberty will have settled down, with its outspread
eagle wings sheltering every country of the habitable
globe. Edv 6 Kvpios OeXijcry, KaX tyjacofiev, Kal Troirfaafiev
rovro rj etcetvo. (James iv. 15.) Mahomet and his disci
ples have made enough of this divine injunction, which,
indeed, ought to be more practised by Christians. By the
Moslems, however, it is carried to a superstitious excess,
and the En shallah — nil\ fLi ^Ji — "Leo Volente," is
continuaUy in their mouths. They cannot even say,
"Yes," to anything, although la, la, "no, no," is heard
frequently enough. The aywah, *yj\, "yes," means ra
ther "weU done," than "yes." But it is a pity they
have not adopted, with the same superstitious strictness,
the op,vvere, " swear not," of the same writer ; for no
people in the world swear so much, and by such sacred
names, as the Arabs and Moors.
<£o/3o? 6vk eariv iv rfj dydrry, dXX' r) reXela dydrrri
ego) ftdXXet, rov <f>6/3ov, on 6 ^>6/3o? KoXaacv e^eo. (1 John
iv.l 8.) " There is no fear in love, but perfect love casteth
out fear ; because fear hath torment." I have never yet
heard the Arabs or Moors speak of " loving God." They
say either, " He knows God," or, " He fears God." Never
theless, such phrases agree with our expression of religious
sentiment. Besides knowing and fearing God, our religion
requires that we love God. This the Saharan Mussul-

RESIDENCE IN SOCKNA. 431
man does not weU understand. All his religious system
is : " To know that there is a God, to be feared and
dreaded as an earthly Prince or Sultan, who at times
rules them with a rod of iron." So aU their actions,
motives, impulses, whether religious or secular, spring
the rather from fear than love. And so it is, that when
ever they speak to a Christian about religion, their first
and last argument is, " The torments of the Lost," as I
have already so often mentioned ; and the fear of the fire
of perdition, it may be added, is their continual " tor
ment." The Koran helps them out, in their dread of
corporal torments. I need not refer to the celebrated
passage, which represents the wicked in the regions of
the lost as " gnawing their fingers and knuckles in the
rage and agonies of their pain." But in Rev. xvi. 10,
we also have — e/Aacrcrmvro ras yXwacras avrav en rov rrovov
"they gnawed their tongues for pain." In both cases
the picture is too terrible to be calmly contemplated. It
is a true observation of philosophy, that the pictures of
the future state of man, as dehneated in the sacred books
of different religions, are, the greater part of them of
a painful and horrible character. But the Koran sur
passes aU these books, in wire-drawn and elaborately-
wrought descriptions, the most mournful, the most disgust
ing, the most terrible, of the torments of the damned.
Is it because, men generally can only be moved by
fear, and not by love, to the practice of virtue and reli
gious observances ? But in Sahara the principle of fear
is carried into the minutest relations of social life. The
chUd fears and venerates, not loves, his father ; he ap
proaches his parent with awe, not with the confidence of
love. The wife always fears, rarely loves, her husband.

432 THE GREAT DESERT.
Connubial pleasures are not the embraces of love and
confidence, but of lust and rule ; and the woman slavishly
submits to the caprices of the man, as bound by an
absolute and resistless contract, and not from affec
tion or any inclination. So it was in earliest times, — the
weaker went to the waU, and the stronger was the master ;
might was right. Peter ungaUantly reminds the women
of his age of Kvpiov avrov KaXovo-a, " (the wife), calling
him (the husband) lord," as the practice of the women of
a stiU remoter age. Nothing flatters an African husband
so much as to hear his wife caU him " lord," and " mas
ter." But it was not the intention of the first propaga
tors of our religion to disturb the social customs and
(Oriental habits of) society. Besides, the apostles, being
Jews and Asiatics, would naturaUy introduce into their
new doctrine the old despotic notions of the East regard
ing women. When Christianity spread west and north,
these notions of despotism over women were resisted in
Greece* and Rome, and by the Germanic tribes, amongst
whom especiaUy women were treated as dignified and
responsible agents, enjoying equal rights with men. Ne
vertheless, the condition of women has improved every
where with the spread of the pure moraUty of Christianity.
Near Sockna, or one and a half hour east, is Houn ;
and two hours north-east, is Wadan. The water of these
two towns is brackish.
* So we find Paul declaiming that he will not suffer a woman to
speak in the churches. It was tbe Greek women who wished to
assert the dignity of woman by teaching in the assemblies of the
saints.

433

CHAPTER XXX.
FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH.
Well of Hammam. — Innocent game of the Negresses. — Baiting at
noon. — Bird's-nests and Birds in Sahara. — Ghiblee or the
Simoum ; its terrible effects on our Caravan. — Delusions of
Desert, and bewilderment of our People. — Disastrous Fate of
the Young Tuscan. — Snakes. — Small capital of some Slave-
Merchants. — Arrival at Bonjem.. — Visit the Roman Ruins of
Septimius Severus. — The newly created Oasis. — Regulations to
mitigate Saharan Slave- traffic. — My Imbroglio with Essnousee.
— Imbroglio of an Arab with the Kaed of Bonjem. — Description
of the Fort of Bonjem, — The Disease of the Filaria Medinensis,
and its Cure. — My Journal confused and fragmentary. — Route
from Bonjem to Misratah. — Enter the regions of Rain and
Open Culture. — Bughalah, or the Rock, where Abd-El-Geleel
was assassinated. — Wells of Daymoum and Namwah. — Sudden
changes of Temperature in North Africa. — Well of Saneeah
Abd-El-Kader. — Stream of Touwarkah. — Ecstatic joy on arriv
ing near the Sea. — How diminutive all things are become in
comparison with the Vast Sahara. — Arrival at Misratah.
In the afternoon, about three, we left Sockna en route
for Tripoli ; we arrived at Hammam in a couple of hours.
On the road, we met not less than three hundred camels
laden with provisions and ammunition for the troops at
Mourzuk, shewing evidently the dread which the Turks
have of the Arabs under the son of Abd-El-Geleel,
and any sudden attack by them on Fezzan. This is a
bad speculation for the Turks. Fezzan can never pay at
such a rate.
VOL. II. 2 P

434 THE GREAT DESERT.
Hammam, is a collection of small sand-hills grouped
together, around and upon which are palms. There is
also a well of tolerably good water. The name Ham
mam (" hot-spring"), is derived from the circumstance of
there being here a hot-spring ; but now said to be
covered up by the sand-hills. This is what the people
have received by tradition. Very hot this evening ; the
sun burnt us most extraordinarily. We felt it more after
having been shut up some days in Sockna ; we took in a
supply of water at Hammam in preference to the waters of
Sockna. This evening, the Negresses played their usual
sweet innocent little game. They form an aUey by
taking hands, blocked up at the end. At the top enters
one of their number backwards. As she passes along the
opposite pairs, each couple put their hands across and
form a sort of seat for her, by which she is bumped
backwards from one seat to another, seat of hands,
through the whole aUey. When arriving at the end,
she falls into the chain of hands. Another now enters,
being bumped backwards on her broad bustle like her
predecessor, and caught by the hands stretched across
the alley. I don't know whether this is intelligible, but
the game is very simple and full of mirth. The point of tact
is, their always sitting down on the hands, and not falling
back on the ground, when, like every body who attempts
to sit down on a chair and suddenly finds himself on the
floor, they would look very foolish. But as the Devil
leaped over the fold of Paradise, so he may be expected
to creep in everywhere, and the Negro lads are always
peeping about, at a respectful distance, to see what they
can see, when these falls take place ; and I imagine the
zest of the thing, both amongst the lads and the lasses,

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 435
turns upon this naughty circumstance. So much for poor
innocence, and innocent games.
31st. — Started, as the sun shewed his broad face above
the horizon. Route till the afternoon over a sandy,
gravelly plain ; then entered some hiUy country, where
we came to the well of Temet-Tar. Excessively hot
again to-day, apparently the precursor of the Simoum
the foUowing day. In this Fezzanee caravan, it is our
practice to halt at noon, or thereabouts, to take a little
refreshment. I am informed, all the caravans of this
route do so. The Ghadamsee caravans, on the route of
Ghat, never halt in the day-time, continuing from morning
to night. Our people carry a few dates in a bag, or on the
camel's back, aU ready for the luncheon. These they
throw down upon a portion of a barracan spread on the
sands. Sometimes a piece of bread is broken over the
dates. They then squat round this repast in groups.
The slaves save from their previous day's supper, or from
the morning, a few dates for this time of the day, and
are allowed each a drink of water. Noticed a bird's-
nest on a furze of The Desert. This is only the second
I have ever seen in Sahara. A few small birds are
now hopping about on the line of route. But I have
observed the colour of the birds to vary with the region
through which we pass. Now they are yeUow, now
black, now black and white, and aU as small as linnets.
These birds have no song, only chirping and twittering
about. A few larks I have seen where water and palms
and other trees abound. We encamped about 4 p.m.
The water of the weU is by no means sweet, but not
being brackish, it quenches thirst sufficiently.
1st April. — Rose early and started early. A terrible
2 f 2

436 THE GREAT DESERT.
day ! A ghiblee in aU its force*. The wind is directly
from south ( US " south"). It is quite dry, unlike the
sirocco which blows at Malta. Sirocco is damp and
most enervating, and south-east in its direction. Pro
bably, however, it is the same wind, but sweeping over
the sea it attracts moisture, and changes to south-east.
I was praying for, and prophesying all the morning, up
to 9 a.m., a cool day. The reverse has happened, as so
often happens in answer to our most ardent wishes.
I never was so astonished as when I saw the negroes on
this day. Mr. Gagliuffi had said to me, " If you have
* As the description of the Simoum ("poisoned" wind, from
" poison"), given by the following writers, is the account of
men, who were bona fide Saharan travellers, I shall take the
liberty of transcribing their various relations : —
" Nothing can be more overpowering than the South wind
(Ghibee,) or the East, (Shirghee), each of which is equally to be
dreaded. In addition to the excessive heat and dryness of these
winds, they are impregnated with sand, and the air is darkened by
it, the sky appears of a dusky yellow, and the sun is barely per
ceptible. The eyes become red, swelled and inflamed ; the lips
and skin parched and chapped ; while severe pain in the chest is
generally felt, in consequence of the quantities of sand unavoidably
inhaled. Nothing, indeed, is able to resist the unwholesome effects
of this wind. On opening our boxes, we found the many little
articles, and some of our instruments which had been carefully
packed, were entirely split and destroyed. Gales of the kind here
described, generally continue ten or twelve hours." — Lyon.
" I derived some benefit from fastening a strip of cotton over my
eyes, and another over my mouth, to keep off the burning air
which parched my lungs. The burning East wind which was
beginning to blow rendered the heat insufferable, and the scorching
sand found its way into our eyes, in spite of the precautions which
we took to exclude it. Tepid water was distributed, which we
thought delicious, though it had little effect in quenching our thirst.
My thirst was so tormenting that I found it impossible to get any
sleep. My throat was on fire, and my tongue clove to the roof

PROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 437
ghiblee, the slaves can't go." But I could hardly believe
a hot wind to be so injmious to these children of the
sun. They seemed as if they could bear any cold better
than a hot south wind. They got behind the camels or
stooped under their bellies ; they held up their barracans,
taking it by turns to hold them up, by which means they
sheltered five or six together ; they concealed their faces
and their bodies with their tattered garments ; they
invented aU sorts of expedients to shelter themselves a
moment against The Desert simoum. I could not help
observing how superior the white man was to the black
man in his physical make. Our Arabs and Moors kept
up erect, facing this furnace blast, and bore the heat
of my mouth. I lay as if expiring on the sand, waiting with the
greatest impatience for the moment when we were to have our next
supply of water. I thought of nothing but water — rivers, streams,
rivulets, were the only ideas which presented themselves to my
mind during this burning fever. In my impatience I cursed my
companions, the country, the camels, and for anything I knew, the
sun himself, who did not make sufficient speed to reach the hori
zon." — Caillie.
" The Simoum felt like the blast of a furnace. To describe this
awful scourge of The Desert, defies all the powers of language.
The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford a faint idea
of it, winged with the whirlwind and charioted with thunder, it
urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its death-fraught
breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light, that looked like
a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole wide expanse
and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of man, and
the voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then fell
upon the earth. Against this sand tempest all the fortitude of man
fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must we
look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we
rose from the earth, with uplifted hands for its preservation, we
awoke to fresh horrors. Its parching tongue had lapped the water
from our water-skins, and having escaped the fiery hour, we had
to fear the still more awful death of thirst." — Davidson.

438 THE GREAT DESERT.
and burthen of the day a thousand times better than the
Negroes — these children begotten by the sun from the
slime of the Niger, on whose swampy plains heat reigns
eternally with all its fiery fervour! I had always thought
the Negro, being naturaUy a chiUy creature, could not be
affected with a hot wind. We all drank plentifully to
day, ten times as much as on other days. But this being
a ghiblee day, it was necessary to drive on the slaves
quick, and with violence, the camels not carrying a suffi
ciency of water for a couple of days of this sort.
Essnousee now showed how eminently quahfied he was
for this infernal traffic. He did drive them on most
furiously, while as to one wretched Negress, I thought he
would have left her dead on the spot, flaying her most
unmercifully. The miscreant Essnousee was only pre
vented from the perpetration of this horrid crime by the
main-force interference of Mohammed Azou, another
slave- dealer traveUing with us, with seven slaves, and
who, I must record, was a humane man, though a dealer
in the flesh and blood of his feUow creatures. I have
not observed him even once beating his slaves, which is
saying a great deal. The conduct of this humane Moor
proved that it was not absolutely necessary to beat
slaves when driving them over Desert. The Touaricks
of Aheer, indeed, know this, and never lay a finger on
their poor captives. We, at length, got through this
day of horrible heat and thirst, for God gives an end to
all things. Never will be effaced from the tablet of my
memory the prayer of a poor Negress girl, who, in the
height of the simoum came running up to me, her eyes
bloodshot, her face streaming with tears, " Buy me,

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 439
Yakob, 0, buy me ! I am very good, I will be good wife
to you, and sleep with you. 0, I'm dying ! take me, buy
me, buy me, Yakob. The wind kills me."
We encamped on a vast plain, having ranges of low
mountains on our right and left. The carcases of two
camels were left on the road, which had broken down
from the large caravan we had passed ; and, a thing
unusual, the Arabs had left part of the flesh on the
bones : some of our slaves immediately devoured it raw.
Hunger's the thing to give you a relish.
2nd. — Rose at Fidger, a little before day-break, or at
the point of day, in fright of another ghiblee. Necessity
has, indeed, in such a case, no law, and no compassion
on the unfortunate. But, to-day, God sent the poor
slaves a little fresh north wind, for "God tempers the
wind to the shorn lamb." The north wind increased to
wards the evening, we journeying on very well. Course,
north and north-west, over the vast expanse mentioned
yesterday. Quantities of bits of marble, pieces of fine
quartz, and shining felspar, are strewn over the plain,
which contrasting with its dark ground-work, look at
times as if we were traversing some enchanted carpet.
But our brains reeled, and we aU suffered from thirst.
People seemed all mad to-day. One called to me,
" Yakob, listen." I listened, but being hard of hear
ing, I thought there might be some sounds. Another
camel-driver pretended he heard sweet melodious sounds.
On inquiring what music it was, he replied, " Like the
Turkish band." Then another came running to me,
" Yakob, see what a beautiful sight." I turned to look,
but my eyes were so weak and strained, that I could see
nothing upon the dreary face of the limitless plain.

440 THE GREAT DESERT.
Essnousee swore to seeing a bright city of the Genii, and
actually counted the number of the palaces and the
palms. I believe our people were delirious from the
effects of yesterday's simoum, for I did not observe mirage.
The beautiful words of Cowper recurred to me when I
had the power of calm reflection, in the evening of the
day:— " So in The Desert's dreary waste,
By magic power produced in haste,
(As ancient fables say,)
Castles, and groves, and music sweet,
The senses of the traveller meet,
And stop him in his way.
But while he listens with surprise,
The charm dissolves, the vision dies,
'Twas but enchanted ground."
Not much sand on the plain, but gravel occasionally.
Some sand hiUs appear in the distance, a line of waving
dazzling white on the horizon. Encamped late in the
evening. The well of Nabah is not in the line of route.
At the site of this well happened a sad event two
years and a half ago, and which now, suffering as I was
with thirst, came with redoubled force to my mind. Mr.
Gagliuffi, on his appointment to be Consul at Mourzuk,
took with him a young Tuscan as secretary. The
vivacious Italian soon quarreUed with the Consul, and
immediately determined to return to Tripoli, during
the height of summer (August), in spite of the warnings
of everybody. However, with care and due prepa
ration, this route, and all Saharan routes, can be and
are traveUed in every season of the year; as is
sufficiently proved by my own journey to Ghadames.

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 441
Two days after the Tuscan left Sockna, came on a
terrible ghiblee, but infinitely more intense and stifling
than any south wind could be in this season. The
Tuscan was traveUing with a caravan of a few people,
who determined to bring up for the day, about 2 p.m.,
although having but a small supply of water. They
were then about seven hours from the weU of Nabah.
The distance was tempting to the rash European. With
a little courage and dispatch could not the well be
reached before night ? Why not ? thought he. The
youth was self-willed and peremptory. He knew better
than the old Arab camel-drivers, traversing this route all
their life-time. The Tuscan had also with him a horse.
But what does he do ? Having about a bucket of water
left, he gives it to the horse ; and then starts, taking off
with him a young Arab, apparently as foolish as himself.
They proceeded on their last journey, the Tuscan riding
the horse, the poor Arab boy going on foot, as guide to
the well. The caravan weathers out the ghiblee — the
men covering up their faces and mouths from the
scorching blast, afraid to breathe the killing air of the
simoum — the camels moaning in death-like tones, pro
phetic of the fate of those who had just gone ! But
night comes, and brings some relief to the wasting, if not
dying animals. Then the morning breaks with a
refreshing breeze, and the exhausted caravan has enough
strength left to seek the well. Near the well, not a
quarter of a mile distant, they first find the young
Italian stretched dead, a little farther off the horse, and
a little farther off the Arab. They had perished at the
well's mouth ! There cannot be a doubt, these unhappy
youths perished by their own folly. The European had

442 THE GREAT DESERT.
even water enough to last him a whole day, but gave it
to his horse, and braved wildly the death-gale of The
Desert. The poor Arab, I am told, was forced away
against his will to guide the mad-cap Tuscan to their
fatal end. By such folly, have also perished unnumbered
caravans in the Saharan regions.
Our people who went to Nabah for water, found the
weU too late to return, and came back at day-light in
the morning, about two and a half hours' distance
from the line of route.
3rd.— We held on our course northward, weary and
exhausted, but the wind freshened from north-west, and
we did not suffer from heat. We now entered into
groups of small mountains. At 4 p.m., seeing the sandy
hills of Bonjem, our merciful slave-master, Essnousee,
determined we might now encamp, and go fresh and
early next day to the Fortress. Observed two small
snakes to-day in open Desert, the first time I have seen
them in Sahara. So much for the snakes, asps, adders,
basilisks, cockatrices, and fiery flying serpents of The
Desert ! We have with us one old gentleman who
joined us at Sockna. He is conveying one slave to
Tripoli. Greatly surprised at this, I asked him how he
could travel these horrid wastes with such a miserable
stake in commerce as a single slave ! The Saharan
veteran replied, "You are right. It would be better for
me to remain in Sockna, and spend my days in prayer
and poverty like a dervish. But I have another slave in
Tripoli. This is the whole of my property. I shall
return again, after I have sold them, to Mourzuk, and
buy and sell. Such is the wUl of God, what can I do V
And so the traffic in human beings goes on. It is quite

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 443
certain, from this case, nothing but main force can put
an end to the slave-trade, for the Moors will carry it on
at aU risks, and under any circumstances. How induce
men to give up a traffic, who will travel a month over
Desert with a capital of a couple of slaves !
ith.— Rose early, and was astonished and alarmed to
find my bed-clothes and all my wearing apparel wet with
a thick heavy dew. This I had not experienced through
aU my journeyings in Desert, for, as the ancient Arabian
writers have styled this country, it is a " Dry Country,"
from Egypt to the Atlantic. But new things always
surprise — often alarm us. We soon got used to dewy
nights and heavy dews. We were now also entering or
near to the regions of rain. I dried my clothes at the
fire, and felt no iU effects from this heavy night dew.
AU were traveUing without tents, except the female
slaves, who, unless sheltered during the night, would
soon have died from cold. Day-time our female slaves
were poorly clad, having on only a piece of woollen
wrapper, besides a black cotton frock, and some
not even a piece of wrapper to cover their heads
and shoulders. Bonjem people say these dews are
perpetual, covering all the sandy soU of the country
round with fresh green herbage, which our poor
camels now cropped with a voracious delight. In
two hours and a half we entered the new town of Bon
jem. It is the site of the ancient Roman station, or
town, called Septimius Severus. A fort has recently
been built from the ancient ruins, with a few small
miserable houses in the shape of a village. The fort, or
burge, is however strong and commodious, and has
quarters for the accommodation of five hundred troops.

444 THE GREAT DESERT.
The present garrison consists of about thirty raw Arabs,
relieved every two months. They have no pay or
allowance, except their rations. The object of the
Pasha in the erection of this fortress, was to connect
militarily The Mountains with the large and important
oasis of Sockna. A few gardens have been laid out,
several wells dug, and these, with the homely hovels,
the very picture of " the day of small things," are still
infinitely preferable to the naked desolation of Sahara.
On proceeding upwards, water is here taken in for three
or four days. The water is very good, although it has a
fetid odour, rendering it disagreeable when drinking.
Walked about the village. There may be forty or fifty
houses, mere square boxes of mud or plaster, mixed with
old Roman stones, about twelve feet high, and containing
perhaps a hundred inhabitants. Being new, the houses
have a clean appearance. There are two streets, and a
fondouk, or caravanserai. To build such a village and a
fortress, some rather fine Roman ruins received their
final stroke of demolition.
Afternoon, — went to see the ancient Roman station
of Septimius Severus. It lies east of Bonjem at a
quarter of an hour's walking. Of the fort or castle,
there remains stUl a sufficient quantity of blocks of stone
to point out the four gates, and some rude piUars seven
or eight feet high, denoting the site of a temple, or other
public building, within the castle. We visited three of
the gates, but found only one inscription, cut on a single
block deeply imbedded in sand, and covered with
other blocks of stone. The letters were Roman, and
pretty freshly chiselled, but we could not move the other
stones so as to decipher the words in their fuU length.

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 445
Some blocks of stone were shaped into arches, others
lay scattered in single blocks, on one of which was this
plain device.

This is the sole result of my antiquarian visit. Not
a bit of fine marble or a coin was picked up. The stone
of the ruins was a dark-grey granite, almost black, of
very coarse grain. It must have been brought some
distance, for I have seen no stone like it in the neigh
bourhood. The walls of the castle were very thick, and
built in the usual Roman style, with cement and small
stones, the mortar being now nearly as hard as the stone
itself. These walls were also faced with the blocks of
stone mentioned. The walls of the city had merely
cement and small stones. These latter are extensive.
The ensemble of the ruins makes one deeply regret to
see The Sahara has gone back ages in the arts and civili
zation, for such is evident from these debris of Roman
Saharan culture. This fact, even the Moors themselves
accompanying me, acknowledged by such exclamations
as wasd, "wide!" and kebir, "great !" But the impression
with them is fleeting, and anything unconnected with
their religion, and the history of the conquests of
Islamism, I have always observed is accounted nothing
by these people. Half a day west of Bonjem, the people
tell me there is a few scattered ruins of another ancient
city. On our way we found two wells, lately dug, and
the Taleb-Kaed says, water is every where found near
the surface, and always good, in spite of the disagreeable

446 THE GREAT DESERT.
gaseous exhalation when drunk. A few tiny palms are
also planted about these weUs, in this Turkish attempt
to upraise Septimius Severus. The little sprigs of palm
pleased aU, and were welcomed by us as the germ
of the future oasis, which shall afford shade and fruit
to a large population. There may be a dozen wells
already dug, and every year the infant oasis shows more
signs of life, and a little, little more progressive existence.
The prevaUing soil is sandy, but good for grain and
palms. This evening had an imbroglio or row with Essnousee,
who attempted to impose upon me by charging for two
or three suppers which he furnished me in the way of
hospitahty at his native place of Sockna. I had lent
him all my money to purchase food for his slaves. He
now refused to refund, on this and other pleas.
During the road from Sockna to Bonjem, I thought
of two or three regulations which might mitigate the
evils of Saharan slave-traffic, as weU as limit its opera
tions, if our Government could prevail upon the Turks
to adopt them. If we can't stop the trade at once, we
may try to lessen its miseries. We English did the
same in the case of our own slave-trade.
1st. That no TripoUne, or other Ottoman subject,
should purchase a slave out of the provinces of Tripoli.
2nd. That the slaves en route for Tripoli should be
accompanied by a Government officer, who should watch
over them and see that they are not over-driven or
inhumanly flogged.
3rd. That for every slave dying en route, or in any of
the towns en route, for the markets of the Coast, what
ever may be the cause, the owner of that slave should be

PROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 447
fined a sum equal to the duty paid for it to Govern
ment. The first rules would lessen the operations of the traffic,
and prevent slave-merchants from purchasing and specu
lating in Soudan, and always put them under the eye
and surveiUance of the agents of Government. The
second would in a great measure prevent over-driving
and inhuman flogging, if faithfully followed out. The
third would, at least, always insure the slaves having
food enough to preserve them in good health.
I think I see the free-trader smile at these restrictions,
and hear him say, " What humbug !" But first, it is
here a question to regulate a nefarious traffic which the
Porte, our aUy, is not yet prepared to abolish. Until
the free-trader can prove to me that the traffic in slaves
is a legitimate commerce, I shaU advocate the crippling
of it by restrictions, let these restrictive regulations be
ever so puerile. But we have the fact, that since Mr.
Gagliuffi persuaded the Ottoman authorities to lay a tax
of ten doUars per head on each slave, the traffic has
diminished considerably. So at any rate the merchants
themselves tell me. This was the object of the Vice-
Consul, and he accomplished his object. On the other
hand, it could be represented to the Porte, that the first
regulation would bring the commerce of the interior
within their territories, a great advantage for the
Regency of Tripoli.
5^. — Not so much dew as yesterday morning. The
imbroglio with Essnousee continues about refunding the
money I lent him. To-day it assumed a formidable
shape, not only all our caravan was involved in it, but
the whole of the town, and the Kaed at their head. I

448 THE GREAT DESERT.
agreed to give the slave-merchant a fair price for his
suppers, but for the rest, insisted on being paid back the
money which I lent him, and which he promised to refund
at Sockna. On arriving at Sockna, Essnousee found
money scarce, and thought he would bamboozle me out
of my money. The Taleb-Kaed saw the justice of the
plea, as did all the people, and the merchant was ordered
to give me the balance of the few doUars. The money
was requisite to purchase a little milk, or butter, or fresh
provisions. My vanity, however, came in the way of my
stomach. So when I got the dollars, to show I did not
carry on this imbroglio for selfish purposes, but solely
for the sake of common justice between man and man, I
ordered, with great pomposity and an air of immense
benevolence, the money to be distributed to the poor of
the town. This ostentation greatly pleased all the Moors
and Arabs, save and except the crest-fallen chagrined
Essnousee; it only increased the bitter misery of his
defeat. I was wicked enough to be glad to humUiate
the unfeeling slave-dealer in this way, for he had no
money and was obliged to borrow to pay, which sadly
lessened his consequence.
Afterwards went to see the Moorish Secretary Kaed,
installed in the Castle. This functionary is placed here
principally for the dispatch of the maUs backwards and
forwards. The secretary does not interfere with the
Sheikh who commands the garrison, and only attends to
couriers and the little affairs of the village. For this
work he has the large salary of three dollars per month.
It seemed as if imbrogliamento was the order of the day,
for here I witnessed a row as violent as my own. An
old Arab, very crusty and obstinate, had arrived from

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 449
Sockna on Government business. He was to receive
money from the Kaed, and pay money to him. The
Kaed would not pay, and he would not pay. The old
gentleman sat down before the irritated functionary, and
holding the teskera and a new Turkish passport in his
hand, said, " Give me my rights. Why rob you a poor
man ? Is it because I am poor and old you rob me ?
Fear I the Sultan ? Why should I fear you or the
Sultan? I fear alone God." The excited Kaed coidd
no longer restrain himself. He seized the papers out of
the hands of the Arab and tore them to pieces, ex
claiming, " Go out, you dog!" Besides this the Kaed
threatened the bastinado. The hangers-on of his Excel
lency carried the old man out of the apartment until the
wrath of their dwarf tyrant had cooled down. The
affair afterwards ended by both 'parties accepting and
paying their mutual claims. The Arabs are greatly
exasperated about these passports, which, indeed, are of
no possible use, and are only used by these petty func
tionaries to extort money from the poor people. An
Arab said to me, showing the animus of the question
hereabouts, " Before our Sultan became a Christian we
never heard of these teskeras. Now that he is become
an infidel, he sends us these accursed things to take away
our money, and rob our children of bread." The poor
Sultan, in fact, if he can get hold of any detestable
thing of European civUization, is sure to adopt it, to
torment his subjects.
Spent the rest of the day within the Castle, gossiping
with the Arab soldiers, their Sheikh, and the Kaed. To
day I was thankful for two things, for having inflicted a
salutary lesson on the iniquitous slave-driver, and for
vol. II. 2 G

450 THE GREAT DESERT.
being sheltered from the sun and wind. The Castle has
three towers at three of its corners, but not rising much
higher than the upper terrace waUs. The outer waUs are
about twelve or fifteen feet high, and as usual pierced
with holes for musketry. I did not see any mounted
ordnance. Within is a fine court yard, and there is a
detached breast-work of defence over the entrance.
It is very comfortable in many of its apartments, afford
ing a most effectual shelter from wind and heat.
The short time of service makes the Arab soldiers
cheerful, and they are pretty well fed and enjoy good
health. There is no fever, but they teU me there are a
few cases of the Enghiddee of Soudan, a fine sUken worm
formed under the cuticle of the body, mostly on the legs
and arms, already described under the name of Arak-El-
Abeed'*. Arabs do not catch this disorder so much
as merchants going to Soudan. The only arms these
troops have, is the matchlock or musket, on some of
which the bayonet is mounted. From the top of the
Castle the surrounding country presents an unbroken
mass of desert, and more distantly low ridges of moun
tains and sand hiUs. The Kaed assures me, however,
that in seven years he wiU have a fine plantation of
* This disease is the Filaria Medinensis, or Guinea Worm.
The rude Arabs give a sort of Shakesperian witches' receipt for the
cure of this disease, such as the liver of a vulture, the brains of an
hya3na, the dung of the ostrich, mixed with other wonderful ingre
dients. This reminds me of the receipt of my Ghadamsee Doctor
for the cure of Night Blindness, which here followeth: — "Descrip
tion of a remedy by which affliction (or blindness) of the sight is
cured at night. Take the liver of a goat, or the liver of a camel,
and cut off a piece of it, mince it small, and take also a couple of
j^£ ? and reduce it to a fine powder, and rub them together, and
place them on the fire so that the water boils or simmers, and then
drop (or pour) the water on the eye, and it will straightway see."

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 451
palms. He has planted several, and is about to fetch
some choice shoots from Tripoli. With toil and care
The Desert, in truth, can not only be rendered habitable
and tractable, but even comfortable, as the building of
this fort weU proves. It has been buUt since Mr. Gag
Uuffi passed this way to Mourzuk, and I am the only
European who has seen this bran-new town of Bonjem.
The Bashaw of TripoU boasts of it as his work, and
on my return begged me to give him a sketch of it,
which I did, but for which I received no thanks. A
few snakes are often seen coiling themselves on the shrubs,
gazeUes, aoudads, and wild oxen, skip and bound and run
about, now and then an ostrich races past or sails along,
half in heaven and half on earth, and deebs (wolves)
come down to drink at the pits during the night. But
the Arabs are not allowed to hunt, nor garden or dig ;
their duty is to spend the live-long day in " strenuous
idleness," or doing nothing but sleep and lounge. To
day was hot and sultry. The female slaves were very
busy in washing themselves. They afterwards had a
good race stark naked, running after me and grinning.
It is very seldom they commit such breaches of modesty.
In general, the Negress is very modest in her manners,
more so than Mooresses.
I congratulated myself in having a comfortable sleep
under roof to-night. I felt glad also for a rest here of
a couple of days. In traveUing through Sahara, one or
two days greatly reUeve you without making you feel
that you have been stopping when you again mount the
camel, whilst a rest of a week often makes a new journey
and a new tour, and you feel all the pain and misery of
beginning again.
2 G 2

452 THE GREAT DESERT.
6th to the 11th. — My journal gets very fragmentary,
confused, and enigmatical. Many of the memorandums
I cannot recal to mind. I find I was getting at this time
much exhausted, and weary of writing. My health, in
deed, was being greatly undermined, and suffering was
become my daily solace ! Often I could not stand when
lifted off my camel. Sometimes I was senseless for an
hour or two after we had encamped. I expected " to get
used to it." Vain thought ! I was just as tired and
stiff with riding the last day as the first day when I
started on the tour, besides having my health and strength
essentially impaired.
We directed our course to Misratah, instead of Benio
leed, on account of there being more water in the former
route. Benioleed, or Ben Waleed — \iii ^y, — lies to the
north-west of Bonjem, but Misratah nearly due north. I
was disappointed in not seeing Benioleed, on account of
its Hesperian vaUey of oUves, and other fruit-trees scat
tered in paradisal beauty and profusion. The vaUey, in
which the town is situate, lies at the base of some of the
lofty ridges of the TripoUne Atlas, and contains a popu
lation of about three thousand souls. I was glad to
hear there were some Europeans now employed in
improving the wells of the town, sent by the Bashaw,
aU which denotes progress in the Turk. Benioleed
is six good days' journey from Bonjem, and four or five
from TripoU.
Nothing remarkable occurred in our route from Bon
jem to Misratah. Before arriving at Bonjem, I saw, by
the nature of the country, that we were approaching the
regions of rain, herbage and shrubs increasing on every
side. The country also assumed a more even, though an

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 453
undulating surface ; and I lost sight of those low, duU,
dreary, and monotonous ridges which characterize the
desolations of the African WUderness. However, I ex
pected to see the eastern terminations of the TripoUne
Atlas. Continuing our six days' route, now west, now
north-west, now north, and now north-east and east,
wrigghng in serpentine style about, we arrived at length
within open-culture lands, where were two or three smaU
patches of barley, mostly in ear, not being irrigated, but
left to the free rains of heaven. The sight of these made
my heart bound with joy : now I knew I had got with
out the bounds of the dry and desolate Sahara ! There
seemed to be something so fresh and natural about bar
ley-fields, depending for life and growth on the fattening
rains of heaven, in comparison with the garden patches
of grain I had witnessed for months cultivated by the
hand of man. AU our people seemed equally affected
by the sight of these natural corn-fields ; and Essnousee,
to show his respect for property thus left to the mercy of
every camel-driver, ordered the camels not to be driven
through the standing barley. The camels heeded little
the command, and managed to get large mouthfuls ; our
Soudan sheep fed to their full ; a good deal was also
destroyed. I observed, nevertheless, the camels preferred
the green tender herbage, to the corn in the ear, and
picked it out carefuUy between the rows of straggling
barley. With the increase of herbage and water, — for
water was not found in aU the route from Bonjem, — the
animals increased. Gazelles bounded before us, at times
in small herds of six or seven ; and hares were constantly
started from under the camels' feet. We had no sports
men with us, and no game was shot or taken. The

454 THE GREAT DESERT.
Arabs ran frequently to the bushes whence the gazelles
bounded, in order to find young ones. Birds now in
creased to full flights. Here were numbers of Uttle birds
with yellow body and brown back. This part of The
Sahara had its particular bird, as the rest. The little
black and white fellow higher up was now succeeded by
the little yellow and brown fellow. Other birds were
flying about, but not so numerous as this species. But
the bird that now caught my attention was the guU. At
first I was perplexed to know how this bird could be
found so far up The Desert, but I recoUected we had but
six or seven days from Bonjem to Misratah, near the
coast. The guU suggested to my drooping spirits sea-
breezes to restore my shattered frame, and gave me new
life. As we neared Misratah the country increased in
comeliness (because after so much desert), and near Mis
ratah the hills were actually green and flowery, so long
black and hideously bare. But indeed, it was the best
time of Spring. We passed on every side scattered Arab
tents, — to us pavilions of pleasure, — with their flocks
and herds : all denoting open-culture and the presence
of rain. Scarce a ten-thousandth part of this country is re
duced to cultivation. Here and there only are some few
corn-fields, where the seed, when sown, is left to get ripe
as it may, the only manure being the burning of the
stubble of the previous year. We must, indeed, say more
or less of the coast of all North Africa, and express the
same hope for the future in the words of one of the pro
phets : " And the desolate land shaU be tiUed, whereas
it lay desolate in the sight of all that passed by. And
they shaU say, This land that was desolate is become like

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 455
the garden of Eden ; and the waste, and desolate, and
ruined cities are become fenced, and are inhabited."
(Ezek. xxxvi. 34, 35.) North Africa was once the gar
den as well as the granary of the world. A series of
disastrous revolutions has successively reduced this once
so fair and fertile region, to waste, barrenness, and bar
barism ; the Mahometan fate-doctrine meanwhUe hugging
and conserving its ruins and dilapidations. We may
perhaps hope, the French are doing something for the
Algerian coast. The Turks may yet do something in
Tripoli. Tunis and Morocco have more cultivated lands
than Tripoli or Algeria, and reforms are agitating both
countries. Once the spirit of improvement gets fairly into
this region, it may resume its ancient celebrity of being
" like the garden of Eden." Near Misratah, I observed,
for the first time in my tour, the hawthorn-tree : it was
reddened over with nice ripe haws.
On the evening of the 6th, we passed the spot where
Abd-El-Geleel was decapitated, called Bughalah ("mule").
This was a smaU piece of mountain, looking abruptly over
a wady, or deep valley. On this mountain block the
Sheikh concentrated aU his military forces, collecting as
well the families of his tribe. Here he skirmished with
the Turks for many days, he winning and they winning
a battle, as it happened ; but they, at length hemming
him round, and isolating him on the rock, where there
was not a drop of water to be had, the Sheikh finaUy was
obliged to surrender. His retiring to this hideous rock
was only matched in folly by his confiding in the faith of
a Turk. Truly, when men are to be destroyed, their evil
genius inspires them with madness.
On the 8th, we took in water from the well of

456 THE GREAT DESERT.
Daymoum. Around were the remains of a fortified
camp, and stones were placed in a large circle. This
camp was erected by Hasan Bashaw, Commander-in-
Chief of the Regency, when he was at war with Abd-El-
Geleel. It looks not unlike a Druidical circle.
On the 9th we took in a little water from the well of
Namwah. Several sea-gulls were here flying about. To
day I have to mention a fact which shows to what extra
ordinary changes of temperature the Great Desert is
subject, as well as Barbary generaUy. About nine in the
morning a strong ghiblee got up, increasing tiU it became
so violent that we encamped at once, not venturing to
expose the slaves to this kUUng simoum. Covering up
my face and mouth, I put my head into a pannier. I
was almost suffocated it is true, stiU it was better than
exposing myself to the searching flame of this furnace
wind. What became of the slaves I cannot teU, I was too
busy with myself. Here I lay gasping for an hour, when
Said came and caUed to me, "Now Bahree (<s^s:)," or
north. " How, bahree !" I answered astonished. "Bahree !
bahree!" he continued, "the caravan is going." I got
up, and felt sensibly and convincingly enough it was
bahree. The wind had made a whirlwind sweep in the
space of an hour, it was now blowing as hard from
the north as it had done from the south. But strange
yet natural enough, columns of hot air were blown
back into our faces from the north for some time, until,
towards the evening, the wind became as cold, bleak,
and biting, as it had been hot and stifling. These sudden
changes are terrific, and are often attended with most
serious consequences in The Desert. Asking our people
how long a simoum or ghiblee would blow in The Desert,

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 457
they replied, " Never violently more than a couple of
days." I do not recoUect it once to have continued a
whole day, but Ught south winds have prevailed for
several days. As an instance of the calamitous effects
of sudden changes of weather in North Africa, I may
mention that, in the Spring of 1845, when Sidi Mo
hammed, " Bey of the Camp" in the Regency of Tunis,
was returning from the Jereed, he lost, on one day, some
Turks and other troops from the heat, and, on the very
next day, several perished from the cold. Some hundred
camels also died from the cold at the same time. A
recent expedition in Algeria, during which some hundred
French troops were frozen to death, must recur to the
recoUection of the reader, having happened from the
same cause of a sudden change of temperature.
On the 10th we came to the well of Saneeah Abdel
Kader, (" Garden of the slave of the Most Mighty," or
God). At this place was a ruined fortress, looking over
an immense district of country, a great quantity of which
was under cultivation, presenting light-green and orange-
brown patches of grain. We passed the stream of
Touwarkah, a name apparently derived from Touwarick,
or Touarick. The bubbling running stream was looked
upon as a wonder by our slaves. They rushed into it,
and washed and bathed themselves, like so many mad
things ; indeed, after so much dry desert, the stream was
a wonder to us aU. I had almost begun to think I
should never see again a large running stream. But I
have seen the negresses wash their faces, hands and
legs, on the coldest morning. An Arab or a Moor
hardly washes himself once a month. These habits of
cleanliness the negresses bring from the banks of the

458 THE GREAT DESERT.
Niger. We had the village of Touwarkah on our right,
to which was attached a forest of palms, nearly half a
day's journey in length. I had scarcely spoken a
word to Essnousee during these last five days, but, on
the morning of the 11th, he entered voluntarUy into
conversation with me, informing me there was an English
quarantine agent at the port of Misratah. The slave-
driver, getting nearer to the coast, had cunningly abated
his ardour for beating the slaves. He now began to fear
he might get reported to the Bashaw. Sometimes, how
ever, he woiUd throw a stone at the poor things, that is,
when too idle to go and flog them. I looked about in
vain for the Atlas chain, or the last of its eastern links ;
one mass of undulating country stretched to the sea-shore.
What feeUng of excessive joy thriUed through my nervous
frame when our people talked of the sea, for though not
visible to us, we were near enough to breathe its invigo
rating air. Now, indeed, aU was changed, and new life
took possession of the entire caravan. The green and
pleasant spring cultivation, the darkly fair verdure of
several young olive-trees, here and there a graceful palm;
now broad leafy shadowy fig-trees, the delicate almond and
the pretty pomegranate, all the treasures of the gardens
of Misratah, raised our joy to ecstasy. I myself often
thought I should never see again TripoU, or the sea ;
now they seemed restored to me, and I to them, as if at
one time they had been hopelessly lost ! But how smaU
had all objects become, how diminutive, how confined,
limited and contracted their dimensions, and how pretty
yet how petty, compared to the vast huge and limitless lines
of existence, which form and circumscribe the Great Saha
ran Regions ! where I had traveUed so many long months.

FROM SOCKNA TO MISRATAH. 459
When I first arrived in Africa, I looked upon the dark
and purple mountains of the coast with a species of
mysterious feeling, as if such mountain groups were
boundless in extent, unfathomable and unsearchable in
their stronghold foundations. But now, returning again
to the regions of Atlas, the chains of this celebrated
range in Tripoli, Tunis, and Algeria, seemed like old
familiar faces to me, or so many contracted domestic
objects. My eye had been so accustomed to gazing day
after day over plains without an apparent bound, on
mountain ridges running along weeks and weeks of
Desert journeying, that it could now only regard aU the
African coast scenery as so many pretty little painted
landscapes, which might be reduced and easily accom
modated to stage scenery at a minor theatre.
On the arrival of our ghafalah at Misratah, I was
introduced to the quarantine agent, Signor Francesco
Regini, an Italian born in Tripoli, but under British
protection, and having a Maltese wife. Regini begged
me to put up in his house, and I accepted his kindly
.proffered invitation, when his wife cooked me a fowl and
I dined Uke a prince. I now thought I would return to
Tripoli by sea, to get a little bracing sea-air, but after
wards I determined to continue with the caravan of
slaves to TripoU, to see the last of the poor things, or
accompany them till their arrival at the TripoUne market
of human flesh.

460

CHAPTER XXXI.
FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI.
The Establishment of Signor Regini. — Visit the Acting Kaed of
Misratah. — Shabby Conduct of Mehemet Pasha to Regini. —
Description of the Villages comprised within the Jurisdiction of
Misratah. — Population and Condition of the Jews in Misratah
and Tripoli. — Regini sighs for the honour of hoisting the
Union Jack. — Village of Zeiten. — Leghma; and the tapping of
the Date-Palm. — Corn Fields and Grain Culture in North
Africa. — Manipulation. — Sahel or Salhin ; its splendid Gardens.
— The Eastern Terminus groups of Mount Atlas. — Ruins of Le-
bida; and other Ancient Ruins. — Monosyllabic Old Moor. —
Meet the Bey of Misratah. — Wad Seid, and Plain of El-Jumr. —
The Sand-Storm. — Our Slaves' first sight of the Sea..— Said left
behind. — Essnousee foiled in attempting to beat one of his
Slaves. — Trait of the Tender Passion in our Troop of Slaves. —
Result of my Observations on the Saharan Slave Traffic. — Gar
dens of Tajourah.— -The Gardens of the Masheeah. — Distance,
Time, and Expenses of my Tour. — Disposal of Said, and the
Camel.
12th. — Easter Sunday. It is a grand festa with
Signor Regini, and his famUy are dressed out in their
best. They are the only famUy of Christians in this
town, but keep the festa with as much religious zest and
zeal as if in Malta or Rome. Poor Regini gets only
twelve doUars a month from the Pasha of TripoU for his
employment of quarantine agent, and is obhged to look
after three ports, for Misratah has three ports, at a
considerable distance from each other, as weU as several
hours' ride from the town. Visited with Regini the
acting Kaed or Governor of this place, and brother of
the Bey, now in Tripoli. The Kaed stared stupidly at

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 461
me whilst relating to him some things about the Touaricks.
He was astonished they treated me so weU, instead of mur
dering me, as he thought they had a right, or ought to
have done. This Moorish beast finished by consulting
me respecting his health, and begging physic, but which
I refused to give him, seeing his indisposition proceeded
from sheer indolence. His people, or officers of the
place, were aU amazed at my traveUing as I was, and
wondered what I could be doing. Mr. Regini heard one
say, " The Christian has written the country ; the
Enghsh are coming to take all this land." Another
observed, " This Englishman is a dervish, and is mad.
His friends send him here to get rid of him." I took
no interest whatever in the interview, feeUng thoroughly
tired of my tour and the people. The Kaed had heard
some merchants say, "The Touaricks are a people of one
word," which he now repeated, and which was a good
satire upon himself and his Moorish brethren, "A people
of ten thousand words." The Kaed informed me of the
safe arrival of Haj Ibrahim, and the rest of his party, at
Tripoli. Regini's house is a constant resort of visitors and
idlers. Amongst the objects of attraction, is Mr. R.'s
pretty Uttle daughter, who turns the heads of all the
Moors. Mr. R. says the Pacha is going to build him a
larger house, and allow it him rent-free, as an increase of
salary. This His Highness, indeed, promised to do. But
Mehemet Pasha showed the usual and insulting duplicity
of the Turk, for the Consul-General heard afterwards
that, instead of giving Regini a new house, he increased
the rent of his old one. This unhandsome conduct of
the Pasha so enraged Colonel Warrington, that, on hear-

462 THE GREAT DESERT.
ing it, after he had invited the Bashaw to dine with him
at his garden, the Colonel determined to withdraw the
invitation, or rather not give the dinner. So the Pasha's
dining at the British garden did not come off, much to
my annoyance, for I wished to have been present at the
dinner. These little bits of Turkish duplicity irritate
and annoy our Consuls more than acts of tyrants like
Asker Ali.
Visited the environs in the evening. Picked up some
chamomile flowers, which abound in the lanes and high
ways. The barUla plant is also very common; it is col
lected and burnt, and the ashes exported in considerable
quantities. Several ponds of water are found during
winter in this neighbourhood, which are frequented by
numerous flights of wild-duck, affording capital game
for the hungry sportsman. Date-palms are now in
blossom, whose flowers are aU at first encased in a pod.
Essnousee teUs me, Abd-El-Geleel destroyed the palms
of Sockna by simply cutting off the tops or heads of the
palms, in the same way as people do when they tap
palms for leghma. Some of them grow again, others do
not, it being aU a matter of chance. The date-palm
is most abundantly cultivated on the TripoUne Coast,
supplying the people with a fuU third of their food.
13th. — Misratah is an aggregate or series of vUlages,
scattered about to an extent of a fuU day's journey, con
taining about 12,000 inhabitants, two-thirds Moors, the
rest Arabs, Negroes, and Jews. The houses and other
buUdings make but a mean appearance, built of mud and
stones, and some of Ume-mortar. There are a few Ma-
rabets shining beautifuUy white in the sun, with Ught
and chaste cupola tops. A drawing of one of these is

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 463
given, that of Sidi Salah. The Marabet is a common,
but fair and picturesque, feature in coast scenery. The
bazaar, or market of Misratah, is held three times a
week, but in different places of the villages included
within this circle of jurisdiction. The principal port is
three or four hours from the central village, the inhabi
tants not enjoying an immediate view of the sea, so
delightful on the North African Coast. The grand cul
tivation is dates, but not of good quality, then barley
and wheat (the most of the former), olives, figs, and some
other fruit-trees. Oxen, goats, and sheep, are in num
bers, and there is a considerable export trade in hides
and wool. The markets are pretty weU stocked with
provisions, and cheaper than in Tripoli. Nevertheless,
the viUages of Misratah are choked full of very poor
destitute people, and during the past year, in the midst
of comparative abundance, many of them lived almost
entirely on herbs. These wretched creatures congregate
in Misratah from aU the neighbouring districts, the
Gharian and Gibel mountains, the viUage of Touarghah,
and other places. The same system of spohation by
Government is going on here as in other provinces of
Tripoli, the inhabitants being reduced gradually to most
complete beggary. Every year the number of poor in
creases, whilst the taxes on land, under the curse of
Turkish oppression, as fatally increase, reducing all to
serfdom, leaving not an acre of land in the hands of the
people, excepting those lands protected by the sanctuaries
of religion. The civil power in this country has no con
science ; the people are alone protected from annihilation
by their religion.
Fifty famiUes of Jews are located in these vUlages,

464 THE GREAT DESERT.
occupied as brokers and petty traders, or in making
essences. They pay a poU-tax of a hundred mahboubs
per annum to the Pasha. They have two synagogues,
and a Rabbi superintending them. Rabbi Samuel says he
has heard there are Jews in Soudan. Lyon has mentioned
the same report, and locates Jews south from Timbuctoo,
supposing them to have gone originally from Morocco.
Many of the TripoUne mountains contain Jews, and in
Misratah there are a hundred families. As a specimen
of the state of Biblical learning and literature amongst
these Jews, I give the foUowing conversation I had with
Rabbi Samuel. He explained the 53rd chap, of Isaiah as
referring to another and a past suffering Messiah, the
Messiah of Ephraim, the son of Ephraim, and not the son
of David, who is to be the future and conquering Messiah.
To Philip's question, " Of whom speaketh the prophet
this ?" &c. (Acts viii. 34), he candidly answered, acknow
ledging that the prophet spake not of himself, but the
suffering Messiah. The epithets tq;i ^ and tjtUN>
in Is. ix. 6, 7, the Rabbi explained, as denoting the
reign of Messiah to be fuU of peace and happiness for
aU mankind, quoting Psalm lxxii., observing properly,
the words first refer to Solomon, and then to the Messiah.
Asking him for a passage of the Pentateuch, referring to
the future state, he replied : — " Moses did not speak at
aU of a future state ; Moses intended to have done so
when he got to Jerusalem, and settled the people in the
Holy Land ; but having offended God, he was not per
mitted to enter there, and was prevented from commu
nicating knowledge about the future world. But you
wiU find in the commentaries aU the information you
require." He could not teU where the future state was

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 465
spoken of in the prophets, so I pointed out to him
Daniel xii. 2, 3. Rabbi Samuel now bestowed on me
the honorary title of English Marabout, earnestly recom
mending me to call on Rabbi Jacob at Tripoli, the
mighty scholar of the Regency. He added : — " The
Mussulmans say that our Messiah will conquer them
first; but afterwards, they (the Mussulmans) will recover
their strength and dominion, and destroy us and our
Messiah. You see they are idiots." So much for
Jewish learning in Tripoli.
Signor Regini is an original in his way. Speaking of
an old man about taking a young wife, he observed,
" Growing old, he became young." Of himself, he says,
" Noi siamo motto respetati qui (We are much respected
here)." " So you ought to be," 1 replied, " for I would not live
here to be despised."
" Stop, Signore Inglese," he rejoined abruptly, " I am
the first man here. You are a learned man, and have
traveUed aU over the world, and you know Latin; 'Aut
Casar, aut nullus,' that's my motto. I only want the
flag here. Get me appointed British Consul. I don't
want a salary. Then shall I be a greater man than the
Bey of Misratah."
I promised, as in duty bound, after this sally of mo
dest ambition, to mention his wish to the Consul-General.
The fact is, Regini is a very deserving mau, and could
he hoist the Union Jack, might benefit British sub
jects and promote British interests at the same time that
he gratified his own Caesar-like ambition.
This afternoon we left Misratah for Tripoli, our last
stage. We found the gardens of Misratah very agreeable,
vol. n. 2 H

466 THE GREAT DESERT.
getting clear of them by night, and encamping in a hilly
country, covered with the delicious green of spring, with
nibbling snowy flocks scattered and feeding, and Arabs'
tents pitched, " black, but comely." But I was surprised
to see so few Arabs' tents and douwars in this Regency.
In fact, the Arabs of Tripoli are nearly all located and
confined to The Mountains.
l&th. — Afternoon, arrived at Zeitin, a small village.
The palm is abundant as usual, and the gardens are
full of olive and other Barbary fruit-trees. On en
camping, I purchased some Leghma — ££i — according to
some philologists, " tears" of the palms, and others " foam,"
from the fermenting quality of the sap. At this season
many trees are tapped, being, indeed, the tapping sea
son. When a tree is tapped, a small hut of palm-
branches, cut from off the tapped palm, is set up close to it,
which is turned into a sort of tap-room, or boozing-place,
for drinking the leghma, and half a dozen Moorish lout-
ing fellows are always seen idling and skulking about the
hut, or sweltering with intoxication inside, as long as
the tree yields the spirituous juice. A tree, if a good
one, will yield its sap for two months, and some
times a few days more. You can purchase a tree, tap it
and drink of its sap at your pleasure, for only a couple
of dollars. And for this trifle, people will often destroy
their best palms. The leghma is pleasant when quite
new or fresh ; when a few days old it becomes very
strong and acrid drinking, continually fermenting.
Moors do not understand drinking leghma, wine or
spirits, for their health, considering the object of drink
ing fermented liquor is not attained until they become
intoxicated. In these palm-booths, or huts, the Moors

PROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 46 7
occasionally bring their provisions, and here they will
pass night and day for weeks together in dreamy drun
ken musings, each sot, shut up in himself, making him
self by a drunken and delirious imagination, Kady, or
Sheikh, or Sultan, or some mighty warrior, and all man
kind his slaves and ardent worshippers, as the bent of
mind wildly leads him. Moderation Moors cannot com
prehend, they can neither drink moderately, nor eat
moderately; they must either abstain altogether or eat
or drink like beasts. Of course I speak of their general
character. But such is the case with too many amongst
us, as weU as these semi-barbarians.
We encamped amidst palms and barley-fields. High
wind from the east. The barley was getting ripe very
fast, in some places being reaped. All these crops of
grain are thin, the stalk of the barley short, the ears
small — not the barley or wheat of England certainly.
No part of North Africa furnishes such fine and heavy
corn-fields as my own native county, Lincolnshire; I
might, perhaps, add, no place in the world. The plains
of Morocco furnish thousands of acres of barley*, but all
straggling and thinly growing. The wheat is the same.
Add to which, you will find a North African corn-field
Ml of weeds, herbs, and wild flowers.
15th. — Helping up my little Negro to a ride this
morning, as the camel ascended a hillock he was pitched
off in a summerset. A slave immediately got hold of him
and began to stretch his neck for fear it was broken,
and otherwise pull and manipulate him, holding him up
by the head and neck. Manipulation and pulling and
* On the plains of Angadda the French troops, at the battle of
Isly, passed two or three days together through fields of barley.
2 H 2

468 THE GREAT DESERT.
stretching are favourite appliances of remedy in aU this
part of Africa. Manipulation is frequently used at the
baths, and is attended with surprising cures. Every
muscle of the body is stretched, and rubbed, and coaxed.
To burning, bleeding, and charms, some Moorish doctors
add manipulation, as the fourth sovereign remedy.
Early, we reached Sahel (Salhin?). These cultivated
lands are a continuation of Zeiten; but Sahel is in a
much higher state of cultivation. The golden harvest is
nodding over Afric's sunny plains. Fields of ripe barley
are waving in the wind, overshadowed with splendid
palms of young and vigorous growth. Besides there are
most beautiful oUve plantations aU around us. Essnousee,
who now became a little more familiar, kept crying out
to me with spontaneous admiration, " This is the new
world (Dunyah Jedeed) !" The slave-driver had heard
me praise the vast fields of fertility in America. Sahel
in fact, is a country of most vigorous and teeming fer
tility. But, to-day, from the camel's back, I saw the
sea. How rejoiced I was, after nine months Ocean Desert-
traveUing, over sands and rocks, and naked sultry plains,
suffering all sorts of privations and hardships, to see
once more the world of waters ! And this, notwithstand
ing it had been so often unfriendly to me in my various
traveUings by land and water. I kept straining (and
pumping) my lungs to breathe its pure cool air. Sahel
is of considerable extent, but has no nucleus of houses in
the shape of a town, consisting merely of a series of
smaU villages and detached houses, like our cottage
groups and farms, but, of course, in Moorish style. Ex
tremely warm to-day, though near the sea. Cleared the
Sahel the afternoon, and, at night, encamped amidst the

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 469
last groups of the Atlas, spreading and stretching east
wards. I had observed we were about to enter these ter
minus groups and links of the eastern Atlas chain, whUst
at some distance, and easUy distinguished them from
those of the Saharan groups and ridges. Their appear
ance is strikingly different, being wooded and bristling on
the sides, shooting up in craggy heights, hoary and white
on the uppermost peaks and ridges, as if bitten by
the cold and frost, and bared by the bleak winds of the
sea. The Great Desert ranges, on the contrary, are
naked as nakedness can be, dull, dreary, and dead,
smoothed over as velvet, of black and purple hues, and
look more like mountains which children might paint
than the sterile realities of Old Sahara. Here, amidst
the mountainous scenery of the coast, I could recognise
many of the features of Virgil's description. (^Eneidos
b. iv.) " Jamque volans apicem et latera ardua cernit
Atlantis duri, coelum qui vertice fulcit:
Atlantis, cinctum assidue cui nubibus atris
Pmiferum caput et vento pulsatur et imbri;
Nix humeros infusa tegit; turn flumina mento
Precipitant senis, et glacie riget horrida barba."
But this grand portrait of Old Atlas, whose brawny
shoulders support our various globe, can only be realized
(during winter) in the Morocco chain of the Atlas, whose
highest peak is Miltsin, in Jibel Thelge, or " Mountain
of Snow." This peak, some 15,000 feet in height, is
near the city of Morocco itself. Dr. Shaw, who never
visited Morocco, was puzzled to apply this classic de
scription to the Algerian chains of Atlas. The Atlas
Chain, which here terminates eastward, strikes out into

470 THE GREAT DESERT.
the ocean just below Santa Cruz, in Morocco, being its
western termination; but, in Tunis, at many places, it
is interrupted in its connecting links. I was delighted
to find a number of beautiful fruit-gardens, so many
Hesperian spots, in the smaU valleys of these Atlas
groups, observing for the first time the vine cultivated
in vineyards. Several pleasant fields of the vine
adorned the valleys. But the date-palm disappears in
these mountains, whilst the olive increases, crowning the
lower groups of Atlas, or spreading in large fields in the
vaUeys. Patches of wheat and barley are also culti
vated on the mountain sides. Arab stone-built vUlages
are seen scattered through the rising groups and valleys.
I am told these gardens belong to people in Tripoli.
They are the sweetest, prettiest, loveliest little things
which I have seen in all my nine months' tour. Oh, that
that these valleys were full of them !
At noon, we passed the ruins of Lebida (or Lebdah)
on our right, situate on the sea-shore, several miles out
of the line of route. What nonsense to believe Cice-
rones in these parts. Regini told me I should be sure
to see Lebida, for it was in the road — that is to say,
five or six miles off, behind sand-hiUs. The whole of
the ground, from Sahel to these first groups of Eastern
Atlas, is scattered over with Roman and Greek ruins,
and, as it happens, there is a huge piece of an ancient
building in the road itself, apparently a temple. I was
too weak, however, to descend from the camel, to look
closely at it. Many of these mountain-ridges are
crowned with ancient forts, and farther on, when we
arrived close by the sea-shore, we observed the remains
of a Roman road, — a firm broad layer of cement and

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 471
small stones embedded in the shifting sands. This was
making a road in a business-like, dominion-like style,
and worthy of those once mighty masters of the world.
In our traverse of the mountains we met the Bey of
Misratah returning from Tripoli, fuU of the confidence
of his Turkish master the Pasha, and very splendidly
attired though en route, with some dozen mounted
Moors, all very gay, showing themselves off on their
prancing barbs. Essnousee, with all our people, de
scended from their camels to pay their respects to these
big-wigs, and made them a present of some crushed
Sockna dates, caUed Krum. Here new cavalry horses
were feeding, attended by the Nitham, or new troops.
The Turks in Tripoli have but one small troop of horse.
The old Moor with one slave, and I frequently had
some serious talk together, but I could seldom draw him
out. I spoke to him about Said to-day.
Myself — " I don't know what to do with Said. If I
take him to my country, the cold will hurt him, and
perhaps he'U die."
Old Moor.—" Rubbee (God) !"
Myself. — " I thought of giving him my camel, and
letting him turn camel-driver ; but the Arabs are such
thieves, they wiU soon steal the camel from him."
Old Moor.— "Ruhbee (God)!"
Myself. — " He's such a goose, too, he gives away all
he has."
Old Moor. " Rubbee (God) !"
Myself — "Perhaps I shall leave Said at Tripoli."
Old Moor.—" If it please God."
16$. — All the morning we continued to traverse the

472 THE GREAT DESERT.
Atlas groups. I found the lesser summits of these
groups also strikingly contrasted with the Saharan
ridges. Here were heights crowned with fresh and
green cultivation. On the contrary, the Saharan moun
tain tops are covered with lava and columnar green
stone, and overstrewn with other loose stones, forming
an extensive black and dreary plain. At noon, we got
upon undulating ground, a great part of which was
under cultivation, with here and there sheep and cattle
grazing. Encamped in the Wady Seid (Zag). This
undulating ground is sometimes caUed the fertUe plain
of El-Jumr. Wady Seid is now quite dry, but evi
dently has a strong and large current during the winter
rains. In the course of this day's march, crossed many
small but deep dry ravines, all of which have water in
the winter. No hares or gazeUes were started in these
few days' journey from Misratah, the country being gene
rally populated, but birds increased on every side.
Noticed here, as in Tunis, a great variety of beetles.
North Africa, indeed, is the classic land of beetles; also
a few snakes and many lizards were observed. Our
people now all shaved their heads and washed, changing
their linen in preparation for our entering Tripoli to
morrow or next day. A Moor will wear a shirt three
months, an Arab, six months or a year. They cannot
comprehend the necessity of the frequent changes of
linen by Europeans. And yet, Moors wiU take a bath
once or twice a day, whilst they re-put on their linen for
three months together.
1 7th. — When we started this morning we fully ex
pected to reach Tripoli in the evening, at least I did,

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 473
leaving the ghafalah at Tajourah. But, after we had
marched a few hours, the sky was suddenly overcast, and
the wind blew untU it became a horrible tempest —
" Sudden the impetuous hurricanes descend,
Wheel through the air, in circling eddies play,
Tear up the sands, and sweep whole plains away."
We got safely over Wady Rumel, whose bed is
covered with reeds, having besides a good deal of stag
nant water. My nagah forded the river as weU as any
of the camels, if not better. We now entered the sands
of the sea-shore, and after two hours sat down to eat a
few dates. We resumed our march through the sands
which line the margin of the sea, the wind meanwhile
blowing a perfect gale.
Now I witnessed what I had not seen in my nine
months' Saharan travel, a veritable sandstorm. The wind
so fiUed the air with sand, that we could hardly see, or
get on groping our way, and we were obliged to hold on
our camels, for fear of being blown off. Our poor slaves
shrunk back aghast from the tempest, whUst the sea now
and then broke open upon them tlirough the sand groups,
showing, to their amazement, its most tempestuous
aspect. Assuredly this, their first sight of the sea, wUl be
associated in memory hereafter with the greatest and
most cruel sufferings of our poor slaves, for to-day they
suffered unusually from the wind and cold — the tempest
of sand Minding them, and the miserable creatures
falling continuaUy on the wayside. I secured my
eyes and face from the sand by tying round them a
dark silk handkerchief, through which I saw my way

474 THE GREAT DESERT.
without getting eyes, ears, and mouth full of sand. All
our animals, as well as our people, had a thick coating
of sand round their eyes, the cold and wind making
their eyes run, and the water collecting the sand.
Unable to proceed farther, we were obliged to encamp
about 2 p. m., close by the sea-shore, under the shadow
of a great cliff, the spray of the waves washing our feet
and resting-place, and the noise of their chafing and
roaring stunning our ears, whilst the sand-storm worked
its way of desolation over our heads. The slaves sur
prised by this new sight of the sea, lashed into its wildest
form, stared with wonder and horror at the tempest-
tossed waters; some grinned and chattered with their
teeth; others looked savage and moody, as if asking,
" Whether the devils of the white men inhabited these
waters ?" whilst others, cowered down and sinking, hid
their faces under their tattered clothes. I love to look
upon the sea in its wildest shape, possessed by the tem
pest, and am disposed to be very poetical about it, but,
mind you, rather from the land, than pitching over its
briny foamy billows. We had some rain, and the cold was
intense during the night. In very deed, it seemed as if
heaven and earth were conspiring against the wretched
slaves the nearer they approached the end of their suf
ferings ! Still there was an end of this, as of all things,
and God sent us fair weather the next day. I was
grievously afflicted about Said this night. He had
suddenly disappeared during the sandstorm, and what
had become of him I could not teU. I kept asking
myself, " Whether he was doomed to perish at the gates
of Tripoli, on his return, after his painfuUy wearying
journey?" I sent out people on all sides. No tidings

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 475
were brought of him. All was a blank  We
called, and called  No answer.
18$. — Started early, but without Said. I began to
be overwhelmed with sadness at his unaccountable dis
appearance. My impression was, when more calm, that
he had overslept himself during the day, whilst we rested
an hour to eat a few dates on the sand, and the slaves
walking with him, or his companions, allowed him to
sleep on without waking him. I missed him imme
diately, but was told he was a short way behind and
would soon be up to us. As he was in the habit of
loitering behind in this way, I saw no reason for not
beheving what the slaves said. However, I lectured
the slaves and all the people, knowing he could not
have been left behind without some trick, or connivance
on their part, threatening to bring them up before the
Pasha. This startled them, and they were all uneasy.
Before, they seemed to care no more about it than if
a dog had been left behind. But at noon, Said was
brought up by an Arab who had found him on the road
side, lost and wandering about. He pretended he had
been sick and stayed behind voluntarily, afraid to
accuse the slaves to me of their unkindness in leaving
him sleeping on the sands. Said knew very well we
had fed them and clothed them often en route, and the
sick had often been placed on my camel, whilst I walked
wearily over Desert. I reaUy felt deeply wounded
at this ingratitude of the slaves, but I believe it was
a trick planned by Essnousee, to give us annoyance.
Poor Said had slept all night in open Desert, amidst
sand and wind, and cold and rain, with nothing to

476 THE GREAT DESERT.
eat. His lips were blanched and his eyes streamed with
water. I got him placed on a camel.
The wind continues to blow high, and the storm still
lingers late, scattering about sand. Several of the
female slaves are placed on the camels from utter ex
haustion. Others are cruelly driven on. Just as we
arrive at Tajourah, a negress of tender age falls down
from exhaustion, bleeding copiously from the mouth.
The Arabs on foot cannot get her along. Essnousee,
seeing this, caUed out, " Beat her, beat her." But the
people not obeying his brutal orders, he immediately
jumped off the camel, taking with him a thick stick to
beat her. As soon as he did this, not being able to
restrain myself, I instantly also jumped off my camel,
and ran after him, taking with me a stick, a match for
his. When I got up to him, surrounded with a group of
people, some of whom were from the neighbouring
village, all striving to save the girl from his stick, I caUed
out, " Now, stop, stop your stick, we are now in Tripoli ;
no more whipping on the road," holding up my stick
and assuming a threatening attitude, determined to
resist the slave-driver at aU risks. Seeing this, he
cowered back at once, and screamed out, "Oh, it's a
she-devil!" The people now took courage against the
monster, and said, " No, no, she's exhausted with fatigue
(with the way)." Essnousee then had her carried on the
back of a camel to the village, and afterwards she con
tinued riding to Tripoli. I was just in the humour for
giving this miscreant slave-driver a thrashing, and taking
on him satisfaction (but a mUlionth part indeed), for the
torments he had, during forty days inflicted upon these

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 477
wretched slaves, and should have done so had he at
tempted to beat the poor exhausted bleeding negress.
I felt myself secure enough at the entrance of the
gardens of Tripoli, and could weU stand the risk of
being brought up before the Pasha for flageUating an
honourable man-dealer.
We sat down under some olives a minute, ate a few
dates, drank a little water, and then entered the gardens
of Tajourah, which offered nothing new, except that they
were more richly cultivated than most of those we had
seen on our way. Threading our way amidst the mud
garden walls, I was gratefuUy soothed with the sight of
increasing culture, and population. A sweet trait of the
tender passion must be here recorded as taking place
amidst this havoc of human cruelty, perpetrated on our
sable brothers and sisters. At the side of my camel
were two young things, a lad and a girl, who every now
and then, when the Moors turned their heads, watching
their opportunity, kept locking one another's fingers
together. The lad now started off as if shot from a
bow, and instantly brought some beans from a neigh
bouring garden, and these he presented gracefully to his
lady-love. With such a little innocent incident, and there
were many of the kind, I bid an eternal farewell to this
slave caravan, by stating succinctly the results of my
observations on the traffic in slaves, as carried on in The
Great Desert of Sahara.
1st, — The slave-traffic is on the increase in The Great
Desert ; (though temporarily decreasing on the route of
Bornou). 2nd, — Many slaves are flogged to death en route from

478 THE GREAT DESERT.
Ghat to Tripoli, and others are over-driven or starved
to death.
3rd. — The female slaves are subjected to the most
obscene insults and torments by the Arab and Moorish
slave-drivers ; whilst the youngest females (children of
four or five years of age) are violated by their brutal
masters, the Tibboos, in coming from Bornou to Ghat, or
Fezzan. 4$. — Slave children, of five years of age, walk more
than one hundred and thirty days over The Great
Desert, and other districts of Africa, before they can
reach the slave-markets of Tripoli to be sold.
5$. — Three-fourths of the slave-traffic of The Great
Desert and Central Africa, are supported by the money
and goods of European merchants, resident in Tunis,
Tripoli, Algiers, and Egypt.
6$.— A considerable traffic in slaves is carried on in
the Southern Provinces of Algeria, under French protec
tion, by the Soufah and Shanbah Arabs.
7th. — At present there are no wars carried on in
Central Africa, except those for the capture of slaves, to
supply the markets of Tripoli and Constantinople; (so
far as my information goes).
8th.— Slaves are the grand staple commerce of the
Soudan and Bornou caravans, and without slaves this
commerce coidd hardly exist. Twenty years ago, the
Sheikh of Bornou reiterated to our countrymen : " You
say that we are aU the sons of one father ; you say also,
that the sons of Adam should not sell one another ; and
you know every thing. God has given you great talents.
What are we to do ? The Arabs who come here will

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 479
have nothing else but slaves. Why do you not send us
merchants ?"
The gardens of Tajourah are about one and a half
hours' ride. There was then the break of an hour,
where are pools of stagnant salt-water, with snipes
running about. Afterwards we entered the gardens
of the Masheeah, amongst which is the British garden,
or residence of Colonel Warrington. The Masheeah is
a series of mud-walled gardens, or small fields of corn,
fruit, and vegetable cultivation, and houses within the
enclosures. Some of them not unlike town farms. The
whole stretches some ten miles along the sea-shore.
The population of the Masheeah, including Tajourah, is
equal to that of the city of Tripoli itself, if not greater.
These suburban villages have their mosques and religious
establishments. They have besides a separate Governor
from that of the town, and their inhabitants exercise
great pohtical influence during a revolution. In the last,
these people supported one Bashaw, or pretender against
the other, or that of the city. The Masheeah is two-
thirds of a mile from the gates of Tripoli. The houses
and gardens being situate mostly on the east and south
eastern suburbs of the city.
We arrived in the neighbourhood of the British Con
sul's garden an hour before sunset. On the road, near it,
are great gaping holes, very convenient for tumbling in
on a dark night. These holes were dug years ago to
store grain in. The TripoUne Government thinks it not
worth while to fill them up. Immense fig-trees have
grown up in some of these holes. I deemed it prudent
to wait near the Consular Gardens till dark, having
rather a dervish appearance, and being without an

480 THE GREAT DESERT.
European hat, cap, or shoes. WhUst waiting in a neigh
bouring garden, a Moor came up to me and talked, and
then brought me a little cuscasou. I felt sensibly this
trifling manifestation of hospitality on my return.
It is now just eight months and a half since I left
Tripoli for Ghadames. I have passed eighty days, or
nine hundred and sixty hours, out of this on the camel's
back, and made a tour in The Sahara of some one thou
sand six hundred mUes. I reckon my distances and days
thus, averaging one with another : —
Days' Journey.
From Tripoli to Ghadames . .15 days
From Ghadames to Ghat . . 20 „
From Ghat to Mourzuk . . 15 „
From Mourzuk to Tripoli . . 30 „
Total . . . . 80 „
These eighty days, at the rate of twenty miles per
day, make 1600 miles. I walked every day, one day
with another, about two hours, which, at the rate of two
and a half miles per hour, makes the distance of four hun
dred miles that I went on foot through the Great Desert.
I wore out two or three pairs of shoes, but not one
suit of clothes. My Moorish articles of dress I gave to
Said, except the burnouse, which I gave away afterwards
in Algeria. My whole expenses, including servant, camel,
provisions, lodging, Moorish clothes, &c, &c, for the
nine months' tour, did not exceed fifty pounds' sterling,
and nearly half of this was given away in presents to
the people and the various chieftains, who figure in the
journal. I am sure, for I did not keep an exact account,

FROM MISRATAH TO TRIPOLI. 481
my expenses did not exceed the round number of fifty
by more than half a dozen pounds. I hope, therefore, I
shall not be blamed for want of economy in Saharan
travelling, especiaUy when it is seen that the Messrs. Lyon
and Ritchie expedition cost Government three thousand
(3000) pounds' sterling, whose journey did not extend
further south than mine, nor did they, indeed, penetrate
so completely into The Sahara as I have done. Capt. Lyon
likewise writes, that without " additional pecuniary sup
plies," he could not think of proceeding farther into the In
terior, and accordingly returned. But were a person to ask
me these questions, " Did you spend enough ? Did you
supply aU your necessary wants ? Could you safely recom
mend others to follow your example?" I must reply
negatively to them all. This tour, to have been per
formed properly, as undertaken only by a private indi
vidual, ought to have cost at least one hundred pounds.
The reader wiU, perhaps, be inquisitive to know, at
whose expense the journey was accomplished. On this
score, I am also disposed to be as communicative as on
other points, for I do not wish this or that patronage to
be suspected, although certainly the spending of fifty or
sixty pounds' sterling is not a very mighty business.
WeU, then, the expenses were paid out of the funds of a
salary granted for correspondence by one of the London
newspapers. So much for the aid supplied by the
Fourth Estate for the prosecution of philanthropic
objects and discoveries in Africa. Let our printers'
devUs have their due in these days of universal patronage
and pretension.
I now lay down and stretched myself at fuU length
upon the fresh herbage under a sheltering palm, watch-
VOL. ii. 2 I

482 THE GREAT DESERT.
ing with a silent melancholy the last departing rays of
the sun. I then thought over all my journey, beginning
with the beginning and ending with the end, all the
incidents of the route from first to last, and all the
privations and sufferings I had undergone — praying to
and thanking the Almighty for having delivered me
from every ill and every danger.
Postscript. — Said, on my leaving Tripoli, was com
mitted to the care of Signor Merlato, the Austrian
Consul, who promised to find him employment, or keep
him in his own service. My poor camel, for which, were
I a poet, I would chant a plaintive strain of adieu ! I
was obliged to sell. The Bengazi Arab who bought her
promised me, however, to treat her lightly, and only to
use her to ride upon.
" The world and I fortuitously met,
I owed a trifle, and have paid the debt."

THE END.

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