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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1936

BRIEF NOTES

taken on a

TRIP TO THE CITY OF MEXICO

IN 1878

By Thomas W Price.

(Presented to

With the Compliments of the Author.

DEDICATION.
The following is an extract from a voluntary public
declaration in compliment to Dr. Julius A. Skii/ton,
the United' States Consul-General, endorsed by nearly
all the American residents of Mexico: —
"At the commencement of the Civil War, Dr Skilton
.abandoned a lucrative practice to take service in the
Union Army, and served with marked distinction from
the beginning to the close of the war. Wounded, and
broken in health from confinement in Libby Prison, he
was compelled to withdraw from his profession and
establish his residence in a mild climate, and at the
suggestion of friends came to this city.
For quite a period after his arrival he continued k>
be an invalid, and was unable to engage actively in
affairs. General Giant, tamiliar with the valuable services he
had rendered to the country, unsolicited and solely at
his own instance, appointed Dr. Skilton to the office he
now holds, and which he has filled so creditably to him
self, and advantageously to such of our citizens as have
had recourse to him in the adjustment of matters con
nected with Mexican authorities. Accomplished, hospit
able, honest, sagacious, and of large experience, it would

IV DEDICATION.
be difficult, and we even think impossible, to find an
other person who could in all respects as efficiently
discharge the duties pertaining to this Consulship as
the present incumbent."
To the subject of the above eulogy, and his equally
estimable wife, in grateful remembrance of a warm wel
come, generous hospitality, and constantly attentive
kindness, — all that is pleasing or instructive in these
"Jottings" is respectfully dedicated.

INTRODUCTION.
The idea of printing these "Jottings" was far from
my thought when I wrote them. Indeed, when friends
first suggested it to me, it sounded like a joke at some
who, with but little better opportunity for observation,
have published learned histories and descriptions of the
countries they have visited.
This is not a description, much less a history, of
Mexico ; it claims to be only the notes of a plain busi
ness man on what impressed him as of most interest in
a trip to and from the City of Mexico, printed for the
friends who have inquired of him concerning the coun
try, climate, and people of "Our Next Neighbor."
Hoping the perusal of these hastily written pages
may afford an hour's pleasure, and give at least some
little information that is not general, I ask their accept
ance as an evidence of the personal regard of the
Author.

JOTTINGS BY THE WAY.

Having for a long time suffered from a tendency of
blood to the head, which caused me much distress and
some apprehension, I was advised by my physician to
accept an invitat'on to join some friends about starting
for the city of Mexico. On the 29th of December, 1877,
S. M. Merrill, L. R. Dashiell, the former one of the
Bishops, the latter one of the Missionary Secretaries of
the M. E. Church, L. R. Dashiell, Jr., and myself,
met on board the S. S. City of Merida, Captain
Reynolds, bound for Mexico. The reverend gentle
men on official business, the young man and myself in
search of health.
At 5 P. M., after a delay of two hours waiting for
the mail, amid the waving of handkerchiefs and the
loving good-byes of friends, we started. Shortly after
leaving the pier, we were called to partake of our first
dinner on board, and a good dinner it was. We had
not passed the Narrows before there was promise of
music by the wild winds from the N. E. By nine
o'clock, all hands had turned in, indeed we could not
"stand the storm."
1

8 ON BOARD SHIP. Sunday, Dec. 30.
If this is a fair specimen of what Old Boreas can do
on short notice, spare me from a premeditated display
of his power. I am sure I express the unanimous
opinion of the passengers, for I am the only one at the
breakfast table. The Bishop is quiet but very sick,
while Dr. D. and Rob. are to be pitied for their forlorn
condition ; nor is it to be wondered that a set of
landlubbers should surrender when assailed with
such violence by Neptune. It was the first time some
of our party had been rocked in the cradle of the
deep, and if we may rely on what we hear, if all
return home in safety, it will be the last: at least one
passenger promised the Lord that if He would take
him back safely this time, he would ne%rer ask Him for
like indulgence again ! About noon, while the storm
was at its worst, we came abreast of a brig in distress
— the signal being the flag flying with Union down.
She was loaded with stone, and found to be in a
sinking condition, having six feet of water in her
hold, and rapidly gaining in depth, while the crew
were exhausted with pumping. Our Captain stopped
his ship, and as a result of his inquiries, took on board
the entire crew, including a cat aud dog. This was off
Hatteras, a point of great, danger. The Captain of
the brig fearing she might in the darkness be a source
of danger to other vessels, set her on fire. It was a
fearful sight, — a burning ship at sea in a terrible storm !
Being the only one of the party not on the sick list,
I have paid a few visits of condolence. I fear, however,

ON BOARD SHIP. i»
my sympathy is not appreciated, as Dr. D. has just
ordered me out of his state-room. He appears to have
a long unsettled account with Neptune, who demands
principal and interest. The Sea -god never compromises
with his debtors! Dec. 31.
The wind has veered to the N. W., but is blowing
hard, and the Captain tells me it will continue until
sunset; have spent two hours in the pilot-house with
him, and find him a very pleasant, genial gentleman. I
think he has been at his post all night. He watches,
and I know some of our party pray, for a calm sea. As
for myself, none of these things move me, I know that
He who "Plants His footsteps in the sea,
And rides upon the storm "
has charge of the ship and her company, and that He
doeth all things well. Jan. 1, 1878.
Having turned in early last evening with the pros
pect of a smoother sea, I was surprised, before getting
to sleep, to find that the wind instead of lulling,
had increased to great guns, and become so cold that I
should have suffered but for the thoughtfulness of
loving ones who. had provided me witli a glorious wrap,
which fully paid for itself on that bitter, stormy night.
This morning, it is cool but clear; the outlook is
pleasant. At breakfast for the first time since our first
meal, Bishop M. and Dr. D. appeared at the table.
It is the custom to issue a bulletin showing the daily

10 ON BOARD SHIP,
speed of the ship. In the last twenty-four hours, it
made a run of 250 miles. The weather not being warm
enough to allow us to sit on deck, we are confined to
close quarters, but hope for an improvement to-morrow.
I feel already that the trip is benefiting me; I
sleep better, and, as a result, my head is freer from pain.
Jan. 2.
It must be very cold on shore. We were promised an
opportunity of sitting on deck to-day ; we tried it, but
alas ! with all our wraps, could not endure the chilliness.
1 find Dr. D. very pleasant company, but fear I can
never forgive him for waking me out of a sound sleep,
before sunrise this morning. He, having fully recovered
from his late indisposition, seems to think that since he
has been in his berth three days, we all must feel as
well as he does! His mistake gave me a slight
headache, but did not prevent my enjoying a hearty
breakfast. Just before our steamer left the dock in New York,
a carriage was driven rapidly to the pier, from which
descended two young girls. The moment they came
on board they went to their state-room, from which they
have not as yet ventured. The illness of one of them
has led to the discovery of a piece of great villany.
We learn they are on their way to Havana, to become
servants to a lady who wants them rather as com
panions than servants. She is to supply them with
clothing, consequently they have none with them ex
cept what they have on. There is but one inevitable con-

ON BOARD SHIP. 11
elusion as to the real purpose for which they are being
"sent, and we have determined that they shall be taken
back to New York by the return steamer. Some very
good people have doubts as to the existence of a hell.
What then becomes of the fiends who started these girls
on their life of sin? Surely there must be a hell
for the reception of such! We are told there is a
regular trade of this kind between New York and Cuba.
The day's run is 259 miles, bringing us into warmer
M'eather, and also giving us our first view of some of the
inhabitants of the deep : the latter afford much amuse
ment as they play about the prow of the ship.
Dr. D. has made amends for disturbing my sleep
this morning. I attribute it to his having read several
articles in The National Repository !

Off Florida Coast, Jan. 3.
After a good night's sleep, I find myself in splendid
condition, enjoyed a huge breakfast, and feel as fine
as a fiddler.
We have just passed two ships wrecked on this coast ;
one of them has been ashore but a day or two, and
is surrounded by a dozen wreckers who are taking her
to pieces. It is now quite warm ; we have donned our
summer clothing. By evening we shall reach Havana,
but, no vessel being allowed to pass the Fort after
sundown, cannot enter. After writing to our loved
ones, we return to our berths, expecting to find our
selves next morning, in a foreign country.
1*

12 HAVANA. Havana, Jan. 4.
Arrived in front of the harbor at 4 A, M., but were
not allowed to pass Moro Castle till a/ter sunrise, when
the firing of a gun announced permission to enter the
port of the Ever Faithful Isle. The sun is just rising
in all its splendor ; we hear music from the bands at
the Castle ; the weather is delrghtful ; everything tends
to excite us; we are indeed jolly after our tempestuous
voyage. The steamer is surrounded by scores of queer-looking
boats waiting to take us ashore, for nothing larger than
a sloop can land at the pier. Freight is lauded by
lighters ; passengers by small boats, for which we pay
fifty cents, paper money, which is at a discount of
fifty-five -per cent. U. S. greenbacks are something
above gold and are greatly sought for.
We hasten to go ashore and visit this old city, and
strange it looks to those of us who have never traveled
in foreign lands (my nearest approach to this experience
being occasional visits to the Spanish Coasts laying
between Sandy Hook and Delaware Bay).
If this is a sample of what the Old World is, we
prefer the New ! It would be difficult to conceive a
greater contrast than that which exists between Havana
and any city of the United States. The streets are very
narrow and crooked; the side-walks on many of the
business streets are not more than from fifteen to
eighteen inches wide, so that two persons cannot walk
together, nor pass each other. For dirt and dilapida
tion, I have never seen the equal of this Spanish-

HAVANA. 13
Catholic development. How any one accustomed to
our ideas and habits of civilization, not to say religion,
can consent to live in this horrible place, I cannot
imagine, yet they do, as there is quite an American
settlement here. It being too hot to walk .we took a
carriage, and gave the city a general inspection, the
result of which was that Havana, in our opinion, takes
first rank for utter woe-begoneness of any place we
have ever seen.
Paid a visit to the Consul General, Dr. Hall, whom
we found very pleasant and to whose care we com
mitted the two unfortunate, girls before referred to.
Upon seeing the card containing the directions which
had been given them, he pronounced it one of the worst
places in the city. He also < onfirmed the information
we had received, and stated that the trade extended to
all the cities on the Gulf coast. He took charge of the
girls and promised to send them back on the steamer
City of New York, which sails this afternoon. Such
was their destitution, that it was necessary to raise a
purse to procure needful clothing for them. This was
entrusted to our kind-hearted stewardess, who had taken
charge of them from the day we left New York. In
order to prevent their being spirited away, she kept a
strict watch over them, and after making the necessary
purchases, took them on board the City of New York,
and confided them to her friend, the stewardess of that
ship; the Consul having assumed the payment of their
passage.

14 HAVANA.
Jan. 5.
Have just returned from our second visit to the city,
admittance to which is fifty cents, silver; twenty-five
cents each way, in and out; that is, we must pay every
time we go ashore and return.
Dr. Hall took us to a Cathedra], the oldest, I believe,
on the island. Everything about it, inside and out, is
mildewed and mouldy with age. It contains bones,
said to be those of Columbus; about their identifica
tion, however, there is a controversy. The pictures
are very old and some are of great value.
After lunch, took the street-cars (built in New York),
for -a ride into the country to see how the rich live,
as we were told that at Cerro we would see the finest
villas to be found anywhere. We were disappointed,
for though there were a few very beautiful estates, most
of the houses were of but one story, and owing to the
iron bars which take the place of shutters, looked more
like prisons than homes. Houses with any pretension
to respectability are entered through a large gate-way
into a court, in which are the carriage-house, and stables.
These must be passed in order to reach the inhabited
portion of the dwelling. The poorer parts of the city
were to us simply horrible; such objects of wretchedness
we have never before seen. One of the stcange experi
ences is the sight of so many poor men, women, and
even children, hawking lottery tickets. One cannot
walk a block without being importuned by several of
them to buy. How so many can make a living at this
business we cannot guess.

HAVANA. 15
In the street-cars, one meets all sorts of people;
white, black, brown, and all shades; smoking is general
in the cars, as indeed it is everywhere. Among the
most disgusting sights are the cheap eating-houses; it
sickens one to pass them even.
The stores have but little depth and few come up at
all to our ideas of what they should be. Sitting in the
door of the shoe, hat, or other manufactory, is to be
seen the cobbler, hatter, or other tradesman, plying his
respective vocation.
We leave the city of Havana without regret. The
ship's papers are on board, the bell is ringing, the.
anchor is weighed and we arc off for our next pjrt —
Progresso. That Cuba is of great importance to the commercial
interests of the United States, there can be no doubt;
it is, indeed, greater than is generally supposed. As a
result of inquiry, we learn that the United States has
in the twenty years from 1857 to 1876, exported to
Cuba goods to the value of $324,728,324, of which all
but $52,485,821 were products of the United States.
In the same period, the imports from Cuba to the
United States were $935,821,759, being an excess of
imports from Cuba of $611,093,435. Taking the last
five years we find the annual average of exports to
Cuba to be $18,196,635 against imports of $71, 364,327,
an excess of imports annually of $55,898,188 ; most
of this enormous sum of over seventy-one millions is
spent for sugar and tobacco. The balance of trade
against us is, most of it, spent in other countries, so

4
16 ON THE GULF OF MEXICO.
that our indulgence in sweets and smoke goes largely
to enrich the people of other lands. Would it not be
well to agree to limit our purchase of sugar and tobacco
to their consumption of our products?
The instant we pass the rugged walls of Moro Castle,
we begin "to reel to and fro like drunken men ; we are in
a norther, though not a heavy one. Some passengers
were left at Havana, but our number is still none the
less. Among the new-comers are four bold faced
women, illustrating the character of the commerce to
which allusion has already been made ; for their re
covery from the severe sea-sickness which seized them
soon after they came on board, we do not pray.
Sunday, Jan. 6.
The weather is delightful ; I have had a good night's
sleep, enjoyed a hearty breakfast, and am now sitting
on deck writing these rough notes.
The Captain tells us it is unusually cool for this
latitude. A visit to the smoking-room revealed a group of Cubans
gabbling Spanish, smoking, and playing checkers; their
noise was too much for me, and I beat a retreat. Dr. D.
is a little sick. Have had a long talk with the Bishop.
I miss the Sabbath service, and hoped we might
have something of the kind on board; at least, some
good singing, but alas ! it is not possible. The roaring
of the waves, the rolling of the ship, the diverse
character of the passengers, forbid it.
It is not rough, yet in the half hour Dr. D. has been

ON THE GULF OF MEXICO. 17
sitting on deck, he has been thrown from his chair
several times. I tried to day for the first time to read
a little, but failed ; one becomes very indolent on ship
board. Then, even in this gentle rocking, one is kept
wide awake and busy, seizing hold of whatever may
be near at hand, in order to prevent one's self from being
tossed about uncomfortably.
We have discovered among the passengers taken on at
Havana, a fellow who claims to be a Count. His most
prominent facial feature proclaims him a Polish Jew.
He relates wonderful narratives of his former wealth
and greatness; were his story true, surely the mighty
have fallen. A few hours' observation, however, has led
us to conclude he is a peddler! Of noisy braggarts he
exceeds all 1 have ever met; and is the only man I
have seen who offered to become either Christian or
Turk for a consideration. So windy is he that our
Captain says, quietly, "the fellow has 'blown' so much,
it is a waste of fuel to work the engine, I shall there
fore only use the sails to night ! " Jan. 7.
The day is dull : a few birds, a great many sharks,
and a considerable quantity of water are all we have
met or seen ; in consequence, everybody is stupid. The
ship could make better time, but she runs on schedule,
the line being subsidized by the Mexican government
to make just a certain number of trips a year, carrying
the mail to and from the United States.
No sail in sight to-day. Have done little but think

18 PROGRESSO.
of the dear ones at home : how I long to see them.
To-morrow we reach Progresso ; do I not wish it were
Philadelphia! Not that I am tired of" the trip, — but
there is no place like Home, sweet Home !
It is noticeable that the Cuban women of known
frailty are not ostracized ; their countrymen chat with
them and with those of unquestioned character, indis
criminately. Jan. 8.
At daybreak we reached Progresso, which was found
to be in itself of but little importance ; consisting of a
few small houses on a low beach. The steamer lies
about three miles from shore, shallow water not perr
mitting nearer approach. The fact of interest in regard
to this place is, that it is the port of entry for the city of
Merida, the capital of Yucatan ; which has a population
of over fifty thousand. Merida is about three hours' ride
from Progresso, but as our steamer stops here only twelve
hours, we have not time to see this, the headquarters of
visitors to the wonderful ruins of the ancient city of
Uxmal, and the cave of Sabaco in the village of Tako.
How we longed to visit this part of the Republic,
covered with the remains of the wonderful works of
 who can tell ?
The people coming to us in their sail-boats are clean
and intelligent-looking. They bring birds of many
varieties; parrots, humming-birds, nightingales, and
mocking-birds. Among their trinkets, they have very
beautiful tortoise-shell work", and hammocks, the prices
being very cheap. We had expected and hoped for an

PROGRESSO. 1 9
opportunity to buy a Panama hat worth, say a hun
dred dollars, for less than five. We were disappointed,
however, for none were brought. Investing in their
wares was postponed until our return ; it would not pay
us to carry purchases into Mexico, and run the risk of
paying duty on them several times, because each State
has its own Customs, and baggage is inspected in passing
from one to the other. The freight now being taken off
by lighters, is for Merida, and consists chiefly of cotton
and potatoes.
In the days of my youth, I have seen pictures of the
inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, who evidently
believed themselves to be most adorned when adorned
the least; these people are of similar mind; surely
there is as little clothing on each of the dozen men in
the lighters near our steamer as it is possible for men
to wear, and wear any at all.
It is very hot, the ship being motionless. There is
no air stirring, and we are suffering from heat, — on
the 8th of January !
The anchor is raised, we move off; the motion of
the ship gives us a gentle breeze. The moon is out in
great splendor. Everybody is on deck. Owing to the
loud conversation and boisterous conduct of some, it is
often impossible to hear ourselves talk. What would be
thought at home, should women create such commotion?
After what we had heard and seen at Havana, we were
not surprised to see them smoke, — sometimes cigarettes,
sometimes cigars. Thanks to Protestant Christianity,
our wives, mothers, daughters, sisters, do not smoke!
2

20 CAMPECHE. Jan. 9.
At daybreak we awake to find our steamer standing
still — in a fog. Here must we remain until the fog lifts.
So be it. Have I not had a grand sleep ? Is not my
appetite good ? Do I not know the voyage is benefiting
me? Why should I be in haste ? Have I not learned
to be both glad and grateful for good, sound sleep ? I
trust I have.
The fog disappears, and shows that the Captain has
stopped his ship abreast of Campeche, just where he
wanted to be. The water is so shallow, we cannot get
within ten or twelve miles of shore. Our stay here is
but a few hours. It is amusing to see passengers taken
on board. They are placed in a chair, and hoisted up
the side of the ship just as hogsheads of sugar are.
Sometimes the ladies give little shrieks of fear, but all
are brought on deck in safety.
As we leave for our last port, Vera Cruz, there is every
prospect of a rough night. Let it come ! Have I not
proved myself a good sailor ? Have I not a batch of
letters to mail the moment we reach shore, and do I not
expect to get a batch from those I left behind me in the
City of Brotherly Love? Let the winds blow, if only
in the right direction. Jan. 11—13.
And such a heavy blow! It was impossible to write a
note of observation. After a run of three hundred and
twenty miles, we anchored at sunset in the harbor of
Vera Cruz, after passing the frowning Fort of San Juan

VERA CRUZ. 21
d'Ullua. This Fort is built on the small island on which
Cortes landed one day in 1519, — a sad day for poor
Mexico. It was once a strong work, but would now
amount to little as a means of defence if attacked with
modern guns, and is used as a prison, as well as a fort.
On visiting its gloomy apartments, as we looked into
the dark, subterranean dungeons, we shuddered with
horror. Capital punishment would be merciful in
comparison to confinement in these dismal dens.
The wives of either prisoners or soldiers, we could
not tell which, brought us shells and other curiosities ;
of course, some of which were purchased. Here a
sight of snow-capped Orizaba had been promised us,
having been told it could be seen at a distance of fifty
miles from land, though it is a hundred miles from
the coast. The winds of yesterday had driven the
clouds inland, and so obscured the view.
The first sight of Vera Cruz was disappointing ; it is
not as imposing as Havana. We had looked for
something better, but were glad to get ashore. We
were taken in the small boats, as were all passengers
at each of the ports at which we stopped. The steamer
anchors about a mile from Custom-house pier, where
we were required to land and have our baggage
examined by the Custom-house officers. They were
found to be very gentlemanly, simply glancing into
our trunks and bags, and scarcely touching an article.
We could only look our thanks, as none of us could
speak their language, nor they ours. The Govern
ment is liberal, allowing each traveler to enter free

22 VERA CRUZ.
of duty, two watches and chains; three pounds of
tobacco; one pair of revolvers, each with two hun
dred rounds; one sword; one rifle with two hundred
rounds; and musical instruments, except piano or
organ. Upon landing, we were met and taken in charge by
Rev. Dr. Butler, the Superintendent of the M. E.
Church Missions in Mexico, who with his wife was
awaiting our arrival. They had secured rooms for us
at the Hotel de Mexico, located near the lauding.
Bishop M. and myself were honored with rooms on the
first floor, while Dr. D. and Rob. were sent to the third.
How I wished I had been put on the third or any other
floor, than where I spent the night; fighting musquitoes,
disturbed by the racket of a dozen or more women and
children, the popping of corks, and such a babel of
noises as I had never before heard. The reason for it
all was, the Hotel had neither parlor nor drawing-room ;
a company too numerous for the capacity of the very
small bedrooms, met in the halls or passage-ways, and
there held revel. The most singular feature of the
hotel is, that the floors of the halls are simply iron rods,
an inch apart; so that one can see from the first floor
through to the fourth ; airy, to say the least !
We visited the Mission of the Protestant Episcopal
Church; the only one in the city, so far as we could
learn. The meeting was held in a queer, out-of the-way
place, once of importance, but now in decay. The
service consisted of Scripture readings, with explanations
by the Missionary ; addresses by Bishop M. and Dr. D.,

VERA CRUZ. 23
translated by the pastor. The singing was hearty but
rather mixed, as was the congregation, which consisted
of both sexes, of all ages and colors, from every clime.
They all seemed to be deeply in earnest, for while
I could not understand a word, I felt it was good to
be there. It was my first view of what I had heard
much, read more; had, indeed, thought some of, and
had even talked a little about. Here was the thing
itself. WThat is the impression of this first personal
inspection of a "Foreign Mission?" I answer, "good,
very good!'' I believe it is the beginning of better
things for this country.
I am pleased with the looks of the natives ; they
are an improvement on the Cubans, or Spaniards.
The men are larger and better-looking ; some of the
women are quite handsome, which I could not say
of any I saw at Havana. The Bishop and Drs. D.
and B. are holding a council of war; though not
in it, I have a vote on the question of supplies. I
take a walk to see the city; it grows on me. The
Plaza is very beautiful ; the foliage tropical ; cocoa-nut
palms, banana and pine-apple trees are so thickly
planted, that one can scarcely see the sky through
them ; they form a cool and pleasant refuge from the
burning sun. One of the strange sights is the zopilotes
(turkey-buzzards), the scavengers of the place, to be
seen everywhere, — being the cheap and only means
used for cleansing the streets. They are about the
size of a turkey, and black as coal ; a fine is inflicted
on any one injuring them. In these days of economy,
2*

24 VERA CRUZ.
would it not be well for our City Fathers, who are so
anxious to save the people's money, to import a lot,
and try them in Philadelphia? If this city were free
from the yellow fever,— which it never is, the fearful
heat, the norther, and last though by no means least,
the mosquitoes, and a Christian people inhabited it, it
would not be a bad place to live in.
We take another sail to the Fort San Juan d'Ullua;
are allowed to wander all through the grounds, but are
not permitted to go to the dungeons below, nor did we
wish to visit these. While passing the openings of the
underground prisons we heard the prisoners singing,
in chorus, a low, mournful dirge; the sad music went
to the very marrow of my bones; I almost ran from
the place. I understood what the poet meant when
he wrote : " Hark ! from the tomb a doleful sound."
We were glad to get back to the city.
In view of the cleanly condition of the streets, the
sickliness of Vera Cruz surprises us. In a conversation
with the Consul, Mr. Trowbridge, who has lived here
eight years, we learned the cause, i. e , bad drainage :
there is little or no rain for six mouths of the year,
offal accumulates, throws out its poison, and mischief is
done during the dry season; the rain, when it does fall,
cannot remedy it. There is another reason, namely,
the construction of the houses, they want ventilation.
Nearly all present on the outside, blank walls; they
form a hollow square, with all the openings inside;

ORIZABA. 25
there is no means of allowing a current of air to pass
through. We leave at midnight for our next stopping-place,
Orizaba; over a road of which we have heard great
things. The first-class cars are English compartment
coaches, the first we have seen, and we feel bound to
say, notwithstanding all we had read against them, we
found them very comfortable, especially when not too
full. The novelty of our trip, our great desire to see
all we could of the road, prevented our getting much
sleep; every little while we looked out of the windows,
to see, only utter darkness. But, just as the day began
to dawn, and we were trying to discern the outline
of the landscape around us, I happened to look in
the direction in which we were going, when I saw
the most glorious vision I have ever gazed on ; it
was as unexpected as it was overwhelming. A
mountain, fifteen thousand feet above us, its base in
the darkness, its snow-capped apex receiving all the
glory of the rising sun. I wish I could describe
it all ! I am neither poet nor painter, yet were I
both, I could not picture this wondrous scene. I
involuntarily gave a shout that brought my companions
to my side. I had never dreamed of seeing anything so
supremely grand ; it was like a mountain of burnished
silver ; it seemed a vision of the glories of Heaven. I
am not ashamed to say that the sight so affected me
that I wept, and now, as I think of it I cannot help
connecting with it, St. John's description of the New
Jerusalem, whose light was the glory of God. I have

26 ORIZABA.
seen the mountain many times since, but never under
the same circumstances. It is always imposing and
grand, but in this first view it seemed to catch the
rays of a celestial light. Orizaba or Chicaltepec
(Mountain of the Star) is 17,375 feet above the level
of the sea, an extinct volcano, with a crater .about 600
feet in diameter and about 300 feet in depth ; the sides
are nearly vertical, and show unmistakable signs of fire,
looking like the mouth of a gigantic furnace. The
last eruption is said to have taken place in 1566. My
first view of this peak was worth the trip.
We arrived at Orizaba at 6 30 A. M. The city
makes an unfavorable impression at first sight, but it
improves on acquaintance. Most of the houses are
but one story high, and are old and diugy. Except
those improvements resulting from the completion
of the railroad, it is doubtful if a new house has been
built here in fifty years. Very few have the look of
comfort which we are accustomed to see. There arc two
hotels, each two stories high : we found the rooms of
good size, and comfortable in comparison with the
dwellings we had seen. The floors are made of tiles,
and are without carpet or rug of any kind. The table
was — well, the chocolate was good. The city is eighty-
two miles from Vera Cruz; the population about twelve
thousand, mostly Indians, who seem to be verv poor :
they are quiet and rather orderly. All burdens not
borne by the Indians, who carry loads on their heads
and backs, are carried by mules, called burros, which
are not much larger than good-sized dogs. -I have seen

ORIZABA. 27
many so loaded down and covered up, that they looked
like a moving mass of merchandise. There would be
plenty of work here for the Society for the Prevention
of Cruelty to Animals.
The city lies in a basin-like valley, surrounded by
mountains which seem but a mile or two distant; in
reality they are ten or twelve.
It is like mid-summer. Fruits are mellow, coffee,
one of the principal products of this rich region, is ripen
ing, and the fields are green and beautiful to look upon.
The climate is soft and pleasant. With our civilization,
that is our protestant Christianity, this would be a
Paradise Regained. But alas ! the enchanting country
has been cursed with three hundred and fifty years of
Spanish-catholic misrule. There is no building of any
size in the city which has not been the property of
the Church. There was one for every thousand of
the population, and any single principal edifice must
have cost as much to build and keep, as a dozen of ours.
This cost and the support of all these churches and
convents, came from the people The result of such
excess of Church control is, that their morals and habits
are, in many respects, worse than when Cortes first
landed on the soil. It is Sabbath day, and the stores
are open as on other days; there has just passed on
horse-back a circus company in costume, the women in
tights. Of course they are followed by a crowd of dirty
children. Hundreds of loaded burros are coming in
from the country : indeed it is the great business day of
the week.

28 ORIZABA.
A nobler future awaits this people. The power of
The Church is broken, all its property confiscated ; only
those churches which the Government believes to be
needed for such of the people as desire to attend, are
allowed to be used. All others have been sold, including
convents, monasteries, and inquisitions. Protestants,
with the open Bible, schools, orphanages, and like
institutions, are needed, and, so far as the present
Government is concerned, are welcome; they will be
protected to the utmost, as they now are.
The dress of the people is strange to us, nearly all
the men wear shawls ; many are bare-footed, with pants
reaching only to the knees, but they hug the shawl
around their shoulders all the same. Shoes are worn
only by the better classes, sandals being used instead
by the others. The latter consists of a piece of leather
or hide tied with a string around the heel over the in
step and around the great toe. I saw what John the
Baptist meant when he said, speaking of the Saviour,
"He whose shoe's latchet I am not worthy to unloose."
Scores of women are everywhere noticeable carrying
great loads on their backs, held by a strap across the
forehead. These women and the mules are the burden-
bearers of the land.
There is on the piazza of our hotel what I have not
seen before, a sedan, used for carrying ladies when in
full dress; it is borne on the shoulders of four men —
rather an eastern custom.
We made a visit to the Mission of the Methodist Epis
copal Church. It is held in a part of the old Convent,

PUEBLA. 29
a dreary, dingy place which is totally unfit for such a
purpose. The light of the Gospel should necessarily
shed all its brightness to make such a place a house of
God. Most of the buildings in it are rented to very poor
people; there are several hundreds packed away in its
old cells and cloisters. The garden yields a crop of
tobacco. The whole is private property. Jan. 14—15.
Our party left Orizaba for the next point of destina
tion, Puebla, which is not on the direct line to Mexico.
It was the intention of the projectors of the rail-road to
have taken this city on the route, and that would have
been the shorter and easier course, but the powers of
the Church forbade this wicked enemy of the Faith,
to run to the "Village of the Angels," for fear of cor
rupting said "angels." The road extends thirty miles
north of Puebla, the nearest station being Apizaco,
ninety miles from Orizaba. When the road was com
pleted, and the people of Puebla found themselves cut
off from its advantages, there was such a demonstration
of rage that The Church was obligedjxt consent to the
building of a branch road from Apizaco, making the
total distance to the city of Mexico one hundred and
ten miles, instead of about seventy, which it would
have been by the original route. It is difficult to
refrain from speaking of the wonderful engineering
displayed in its construction, but as we passed many of
the most interesting points at night, and as we shall go

30 PUEBLA.
over this portion of the road on our return by daylight,
I have concluded to defer what I have to say in this
connection until we are homeward bound.
At Apizaco we took the branch to Puebla, which was
reached about sunset. Very soon we began to feel the
effects of the rarified atmosphere incident to the altitude
we had climbed, which was 7,910 feet above the level
of the sea.
The thought that struck us on first viewing the city,
was that if angels had built it, the Evil One was not
long behind them and soon proved himself master of
the situation. There are few cities where the Church
has broader sweep than here. When I have seen more,
I shall have more to say.
The country is flat, and Bishop M., who has travelled
over all our Western States, tells me it is very like the
great plains. For miles there is not a tree, scarcely a
plant to be seen ; all is a desert of sand, which the wind
sweeps into columns, that go marching along like
giants ; a strange sight.
On our way here, we could see the noble mountain
of Maliriche, not so grand as some, but in its outline,
perfect, and on the slightest premonition of cold it puts
on a crown of snow.
We were upbrightandearly the morning following our
arrival, as we expected to see much that would interest
us. After coffee at eight o'clock, for no one breakfasts
before eleven, we made our way to that part of the old
Inquisition building used as a mission by the Methodist
Episcopal Church. This property, like all such, had

PUEBLA. 31
been confiscated and sold, and had been bought by
private parties. As such properties were very large and
located in the heart of the city, they interfered with
the projection of streets, by cutting the town up into
sections, and necessitating long circuitous journies from
point to point. When the Government took possession,
it cut streets through these buildings, destroying them,
but adding to the convenience of the people.
The Mission occupies but a very small part of the old
Inquisition, yet enough to prove the character of the
whole. While tearing away a wall for the purpose of
making improvements, there was discovered the skeleton
of a human being who had been walled up; this relic is
now in the possession of one of my friends. In the patio,
or open court, there were found the bones of at least two
hundred bodies. How djd they get there? It was not
a graveyard; it was an Inquisition. Perhaps the latter
implies the former.
The Chapel was formerly the Hall of Examination,
where victims were tortured.
We went to the roof of the building ; it was flat and
made of stone, as a protection from the heat of the sun.
We could see the city and its surroundings; the grand
Cathedral (the most magnificent on the continent);
Cholula, with its church -crowned Pyramid and its
ruined city; Malinche, close to the gate of the city,
towering toward the heavens, 13,475 ft.; Orizaba,
17,375 ft. high, looking closer into the eye of the sun.
In the opposite direction, we see for the first time the
tall peak of Popocatepetl, the highest in all the land;
3

32 PUEBLA.
while Ixtacihuatl, the "Lady in White," stands near
by, as if looking in admiration at her taller brother.
So clear is the atmosphere that Orizaba, though more
than a hundred miles distant, can be distinctly seen.
Puebla differs much from Vera Cruz or Orizaba. The
town itself and the buildings are on- a larger scale.
When we remember the size of most of the churches,
and think of the enormous suras which must have been
spent in gilding and carving, to say nothing of the
gold, silver, and precious stones used in adorning, and
remember also, that this city of about seventy thousand
inhabitants has seventy-nine of these churches, we need
not wonder that the people at last resisted the power
and oppression of the Church.
Buildings here as elsewhere in Mexico are mostly
white, and built very strongly, on account of earth
quakes which frequently occur. The people are
poorly dressed : I have seen but one bonnet which
was not worn by a traveller. The women use a scarf or
shawl over their heads, but the men wear them about
their shoulders. The hats of the latter have much
broader brims even than those worn by our old-
fashioned Quakers at home.
We notice a great many soldiers about, and on in
quiry learn they are here for the purpose, of preserving
order at the election next Sunday.
A visit to the mission property of the Methodist
Episcopal Church shows, as I have before noted, that it
is a part of what was the Inquisition. The building
originally covered about ten acres, and was of great

PUEBLA. 33
strength, the walls being from six to ten feet in thick
ness. In one direction, there is a long corridor with
cells on each side, remindiijg me of those in our
Eastern Penitentiary, except that these were longer:
victims of the Church were formery imprisoned in
them. When the Government took possession, two
streets at right angles to each other were cut through.
The portion purchased by the Methodist Episcopal
Church is 160 ft. front by 60 ft. in depth, and contains
a chapel, school for orphans, a day-school, and parson
age, built entirely of cut granite. The entrance is by a
heavy gate into a court-yard, in the centre of which is
a fountain, the water being supplied by the city. I
am not overstating the case when I say that in point of
order, cleanliness, and comfort, I have seen nothing in
Mexico that compares with the condition of the children
and buildings connected with this Mission. The apart
ments occupied by the missionary, Rev. C. W. Drees,
are models in these respects. This gentleman has just
married a lady from Ohio, and everything about the
parsonage shows her to be a woman of refined taste.
She has given proof ofgreat interest in the Mission,
is happy in its work, and as cheerful, in this worse
than heathen land, as a young bride could be. Mr.
Drees is well fitted for his post, being a good Spanish
scholar, and an earnest, faithful, Christian man. The
boys of the Orphanage gave us a specimen of their
singing, and I have rarely heard better anywhere.
The teacher of music is an educated German, connected
with the Mission. There is not the least trouble in

34 PUEBLA.
holding schools with Protestant service. The Governor
of the State of Puebla is very friendly, and will allow
no interference with the rights guaranteed by the Con
stitution of the Republic.
We have seen the superbest Cathedral on the Con
tinent, built in 1649. The cost of this immense
structure must have been very great. The ornamenta
tion is beyond the imagination of all who have not seen
it. There is, for instance, a chandelier composed of
gold and silver, weighing some tons ; this hangs from
the dome. The jewels of almost every variety, and the
immense value of the figures of the Saints, staggers one.
Besides gold, silver, and precious stones, there are
pictures of immense size and great value. The Robing-
room is very large; in it are sets of drawers for each
priest. While walking through this magnificent church, with
head uncovered, I was surprised to see a stout old
priest, with hat on, taking a quiet smoke. He did
not know I would report him to my countrymen, or he
would probably have hidden his cigarette.
The Bishop's palace adjoins the church; it is very
massive, and contains a single salon of 200 ft. by 40 ft.
We were informed that the Bishop is insane, and the
story is afloat that he was poisoned. It is a fact, that it
is not an uncommon thing for the Mexicans to use this
means of disposing of people. It is believed that the
unfortunate Carlotta's insanity was thus caused.
Our next visit was to what I thought a o-reat
wonder, a Sulphur Spring, discharging thirty barrels of

PUEBLA. 35
water per minute, or the enormous quantity of 43,200
barrels a day. It is surrounded by old buildings in a
state of utter dilapidation. There were a few private
baths, but in such bad order we could not use them,
much as we wanted to ; beside these, there is a large
swimming bath, and a large basin 60 by 40 ft. for the
use of horses. The water is said to be very beneficial
for many complaints. We drank freely of it, and liked
its taste. The condition of the spring and its surround
ings shows the lack of enterprise in this people. If it
were in the United States, within five hundred miles of
anywhere, it would be worth millions of money ; here
it runs to waste, though within a few minutes' walk
from the centre of the city. The depth of the spring is
unknown; a French engineer sounded it with a chain
180 yds. in length, but did not find the bottom. It is
supposed to have its source in Popocatepetl, where
there is a large supply of sulphur.
Wishing to see what our Mission is doing, we this
evening attended a meeting there. The room was filled
with men, women, and children, and all listened atten
tively to the remarks of Bishop M., Dr. D., and the lay
brother who accompanied them. What was said was
interpreted by Mr. Drees. The singing, which is
something new to these people, is one of the chief
attractions of the service, and was as hearty as it was
good. This Mission means work, and it cannot fail to
do good.
The condition of the women here is simply dread
ful ; such poverty and degradation cannot be found
3*

36 CHOLULA.
in our country. One rarely sees a woman without one
or more babies strapped to her back. But for the
absolute neglect of children, and their forlorn and dirty
condition, there would be reasonable prospect of a large
population. Choltjla, Jan. 16, 1878.
In company with Mr. and Mrs. Drees, we rode out
to the decayed, old city of Cholula, seven miles from
Puebla. On the way, we met no less than fifty
women, carrying on their shoulders hogskins of the
national beverage called pulque ; the sight was disgust
ing. It requires actual observation to thoroughly realize
the deplorable condition of the women; the farther we
travel the worse it is. I suppose the average value
of a woman's outfit when new, would, in our land, be
nearly one dollar ! They are the least dressed and the
hardest worked people I have ever seen.
Cholula was once the capital of an independent
Republic, with a population in the time of Cortes, of
forty thousand householders ; now it is a collection of
miserable huts of adobe, or sun-dried bricks. The view
from the Pyramid of Cholula is one of utter, hope
less desolation, and very saddening. Once second in
importance and population to Mexico itself, beautifully
located in a valley of unsurpassed richness, Popocatepetl
and Ixtacihuatl with peaks of perpetual snow towering
to the left, Malinche's craggy crest to the right, what a
contrast is now presented ! All the beauty and grandeur
of nature still remains, but in the city itself, the curse
of a cruel nation and^corrupt Church has left its trace.

CHOLULA. 37
Cortes here found a brave and kindly race, far ad
vanced in civilization and art. Suspecting them of an
intention to prove false to professions of friendship
they had made, he surprised and slaughtered them
by the thousands; not less than thirty thousand were
murdered in cold blood. At one time Cholula was
the headquarters of the Church, and from the ruins
yet remaining one might conclude the whole city
was given up to the idolatry of church-building!
From one point of observation we counted no less than
forty-eight churches and convents. When their size is
considered (I calculate that one covered not less than
twenty acres), and their immense cost, it is not to be
wondered that ruin resulted, and that the wealth of the
people melted away before the consuming fire of-
priestly greed.
The Pyramid of Cholula is its main point of interest,
and is one of the most noted in Mexico. It is situated
in what was the centre of the city; is constructed of
dark grey bricks dried in the sun, intersected with
mortar and clay, alternately; is four stories high, each
connected with the other by terraces. Its dimensions
are as follows: base, 1,060 feet square; height, 200 feet;
area of apex, 165 feet, — about one-half the size of the
Pyramid of Cheops, in Egypt. Many years ago, in
making a road from Puebla to Cholula, it became
necessary to cut through a portion of the base of
this Pyramid. In course of excavation they came
upon a chamber, which was built of stone, the roof
being supported by beams of cypress-wood : idols were

38 CHOLULA.
found carved in basalt ; there were also painted earthen
jars, and the remains of two human beings. Had such a
discovery been made by a people with inquiring minds,
it would have been but the beginning of further search.
Not only were the investigations discontinued, but they
even took no care of the contents of this room, which
was doubtless the tomb of persons of distinction. It
is to be hoped that at no distant day inquiry on the
part of archaeologists will lead to a thorough examina
tion of this and other Aztec monuments.
On the top of the Pyramid there was a heathen
Temple, which, when the Spanish "christians" made
their appearance among these people, was a sort of
Mecca to which all the tribe, far and near, made an
annual pilgrimage, held a fair, and performed their
horrible rites involving human sacrifices. . Apart from
the abolition of this custom, it is doubtful whether
the Indians are not in a worse moral condition now
than before the "christian" Spaniards laid their bloody
hands upon them. If we may believe the statements
of Cortes to Charles V. and the diary of his old
Captain, B  Diaz, there were some four hundred
other temples built around the base of the largest
The latter has been replaced by a Gothic church, in
honor of " Our Lady of Remedios." The first structure
was destroyed by an earthquake sixteen years ago.
A new church is now being finished on the same
site, and is one of the most beautiful for its size I
have seen. The view from the dome was enchanting
and I deeply regrctcd that none of my loved ones

CHOLULA. 39
were with me to enjoy it. Nevertheless, it saddened one
to think that at our feet lay a city once sheltering forty
thousand inhabitants, but now reduced to a population
of less than two thousand, and they living in the most
wretched hovels to be found even in this blighted coun
try. It is the first city I have ever seen in complete
ruin ; the lines of the old streets form the boundaries
of fields, with not a vestige of a building on them.
One of the principal reasons for the decay of Cholula
is the removal of the capital of the State of Puebla to
the new city of Puebla, and the consequent gradual
absorption of trade and business by the latter city.
We paid a visit to the Plaza used as a market-place.
Such a market ! There were no sheds, no stalls, nor
stands of any kind. Everybody sat on the ground,
with their produce spread out on mats before them.
On this January morning there were offered for sale
ripe tomatoes, peas, turnips, radishes, and indeed, all
the vegetables of summer. Some of the queerest-
looking articles were baked pumpkins, cut in slices.
Prices were very low; with fifty cents I could have
bought a supply of fruits and vegetables enough for
a large family. Nearly all the women were accom
panied by one or more children ; they carry them
wherever they go. It was a novel sight to see hun
dreds of burros laden with grain and other products.
This is the only means of transportation known in this
part of the country. If they build railroads, what will
they do with the mules? And besides, railroads would
interfere with the Church, being a Protestant invention.

40 PUEBLA. Puebla, Jan. 17.
Market-day, and, of course, we all go. Of queer
sights this exceeds all. The street is filled, from curb
to curb, with the products of the surrounding country,
in charge of the oddest-looking women I have yet
beheld. They are as scantily clad as could at all be
allowed, and have with them so many children one
might suppose they were for sale. There is nobody to
leave at home to take care of them, so their mothers
are obliged to bring them to market. How the poor
little things survive the rough usage they get is won
derful. The most revolting of all sights are the leprous
beggars; they are met with everywhere and at all
times, and are disgustingly repulsive in their appear
ance, looking as if they had a combination of every ill
to which man is heir. There are the halt, lame, and
blind ; some with no feet, some with no hands ; some
are led, some carried on the backs of others almost
as bad off as themselves. It sickens one to see them.
Why are these things so ? The answer is, it has cost
so much to supply the demands of the Church that the
State cannot afford to build and support alms-houses
and such institutions. In this very State of Puebla,
nearly four-fifths of the real estate was owned by or
hypothecated to the Church; proving that the greatest
agency employed by the Head of the Church for the
redemption of the race, when perverted, becomes the
common enemy of mankind. The business of pawn-
broking, note-shaving, running lotteries, is not in har-

PACHUCA. 41
mony with the character and mission of the Great
Teacher. I do not believe, however, that all tendency to the
exercise of undue authority is confined to the Catholic
Church, or that that is the only Church which dabbles
with matters not contemplated in the charter given by
the Master. Pachuca, Jan. 18.
We left Puebla at 11 A. M. for Pachuca, the centre
of the largest silver mining region Jn the country. Our
route was by the branch railroad, thirty miles to Api
zaco, then by the main line to Ometusco, fifty miles
further, where we were to take the road with a prospect
of being taken on the road. At all stations along the
railroad the train is surrounded by scores of men,
women, and children to sell various kinds of fruits,
cakes, and confections. The appearance of these
vendors was so very repulsive that we could not
muster courage to buy anything from them.
We had before seen a great deal of the magay plant
from which pulque is made ; it grows everywhere, but
in our route to-day we saw little else than pulque:
nothing of value but pulque. Indeed there is a daily
pulque train run to the city of Mexico all the year
round, bringing receipts of thousands of dollars each
trip! What is pulque? The natives speak of its
virtues as a Scotchman would of his whiskey — "it is
good for the stomach, promotes digestion and sleep, and
an excellent remedy for many diseases." It is neither
sweet nor of fragrant odor ; it tastes when in its best

42 OMETUSCO.
condition, a day old, very much like sour butter-milk;
the older it grows the worse its flavor ; the ranker it
smells, the drunker it makes. Most of it is transported,
either on mules or by the trains, in whole hogskins,
and makes a repulsive spectacle. I failed to ascertain
by what process they get the hog out of his skin
•without cutting it ; but there they were, car-loads of
them, and there seemed to be no fracture of the hide
anywhere. In addition to the pulque, the magay plant
yields other valuable results, for instance, hemp, which
is exported to the United States in large quantities.
The retail trade in pulque corresponds to ours in
whiskey and lager beer, only exceeding it. At all the
stations the trains are besieged by a host of women and
girls with pitchers or jars of this beverage, begging the
passengers to buy. Our news-boys are not more im
portunate than these Indians.
At Ometusco we left the train for the diligence, or
what was its substitute, a hired coach. It was my first
ride of the kind. The distance was thirty-two miles;
that it was all of that, we had no doubt, nor that the
last ten miles were much longer than the first ten.
Had wc taken the diligence we would have had an
escort of soldiers, as all trains and public conveyances
have. There was believed to be real danger, and we
joked not a little as to the prospect of a sudden demand
to stand and deliver ! I rode with the driver most of
the way, and reported to those inside all the suspicious-
looking characters we met. An hour after dark, when
within eight miles of Pachuca, up galloped two horse-

REAL DEL MONTE. 43
men, followed by four others. They halted and
demauded — " Your money or your lives! ! !" Had this
command been made in Spanish, although we would not
have understood a word, there would have been some
badly frightened people in that vicinity about that time.
But the broad Cornish accent of the bold cabellero did
not scare us ; at least I can speak thus for the passenger
who sat with the driver. The parly proved to be
friends who had come out to meet us; so we entered
Pachuca with both those comfortable, not to say necesr
sary conveniences above mentioned.
It took six hours to go the thirty ;two miles. The
Hotel Diligence, our stopping-place, like all the hotels,
is built in the form of a hollow square, — entered by a
stone gateway, and so constructed as to resist assault.
Perhaps if I say that all the houses are fortified castles,
I could not give a more correct idea of the reality.
Beal del Monte and Omitlan, Jan. 19.
This morning we took sta^e for the mining; district of
Real del Monte and Omitlan.
The ride was exciting ; the roads are wild, but very
beautiful. The distance to Omitlan is twelve miles,
Real del Monte being half-way.
At Omitlan we attended service in the Mission
Chapel ; there was a sermon in Spanish, and ad
dresses by Bishop M. and Dr. D., interpreted by one
of the missionaries.
The city is built on ridges of the mountains : it con
tains about thirty-eight hundred inhabitants, who are

44 OMITLAN.
mostly occupied in silver-mining. Hundreds of mines
are scattered all through this region.
We were told that the Mayor of the city was at the
service before mentioned. The whole population seems
ready to receive the Protestant form of Christianity ;
indeed, it is reported, that the Parish Priest had re
moved all the images from the church, leaving the
people to go to the bad, "as they had all turned
heretics." Returning from Omitlan we stopped at Real del
Monte and, on invitation, took tea with an English
gentleman, who is chief engineer of the largest silver-
mining company in this region. It was a great
pleasure to be in a cozy family group once more,
reminding us of our own far away homes. Here, too,
we saw the first fire in stove or grate since we had left
New York. It was needed, as it is often quite cold in
this mountainous country (the highest peak being
12,000 feet above the sea.)
We had stopped at Real del Monte for the purpose
of attending the service at the Mission Chapel ; while
waiting for the hour to arrive we learned more of the
real condition of this part of the country than we had
before known. Our host informed us of the reason why
the mounted escort met us while en route to Pachuca,
and also that we were to have on our ride back from
that city a guard of seven men, splendidly mounted
and armed to the teeth. We were assured that no one's
life was safe after dark. Only the night before two
men were taken from their horses, robbed of them and

REAL DEL MONTE. 45
everything else, their arms pinioned behind them, and
finally left bound together back to back, and thus
deserted. This encouraging story our host related to
us, and, in addition, showed us on his arm the scar of a
wound from a sabre received within twenty yards of his
own door. Englishmen never go out after sundown
unarmed or without an escort. Most of them know
they are liable to be attacked if they give any oppor
tunity for it. One rarely sees a man unarmed, nor are
the weapons concealed ; carbines, swords, and pistols are
worn in full view, in order to be seen. I confess it is not
very cheerful riding among these mountains, not know
ing what or whom an hour may bring forth. These
public robbers are sometimes . very moderate in their
demands ; they are often satisfied with little. A Mr.
Jones was stopped and asked- by the captain of a band,
what arms he had. "None," was the reply. "Then
I want your money," said the captain. " How much?"
asked Mr. Jones. " Six dollars." " I have not that
much with me ; here are six reales (seventy-five cents) ;
it is all I have." They took this sum, and Mr. Jones
was allowed to pursue his way. A lucky escape it was,
as persons captured are usually held for ransom.
I find respiration very difficult at this high altitude;
walking is very wearying, and any exertion makes me
pant and gasp tremendously.
The meeting which we attended was small, but the
audience was very attentive. The people need help
from Christians in the United States, where so little is
known of the poverty and destitution which prevails.

46 PACHUCA.
The miners receive from thirty-seven and a half, to
seventy-five cents per day : not a large sum upon
which to support a family.
Soon after eight o'clock, lighted on our way by a full
moon, we began our return from this picturesque vil
lage, Real del Monte.
The ride was extremely exciting; our armed escort
galloped before us; a rocky wall towered a thousand
feet above us on one side, an abyss yawned below us
upon the other; but overhead was the clear sky, and
around us the bright moonlight, so that we could fancy
it were noon instead of midnight.
The road, built by English engineers, is in splendid
condition, and used considerably in connection with the
mining interests. We saw numerous mule-trains draw
ing wagons of silver ore to Pachuca. Every wagon had,
of course, its armed guard against the banditti. Jan. 20.
Pachuca was reached at nine o'clock, and we were
quite ready for the sleep we sought at once.
During the morning we were taken to an alsenda,
where the quartz is broken, washed, and the silver
extracted. The process is difficult and expensive, and
the yield does not average more than $60 to $80 per ton.
Few of the mines are now paying expenses, but it is
necessary to work them in order to prevent them filling
up ; there is always, too, the incentive of the hope of
finding a new lode. Stealing being a national vice, it
is not surprising that the native miners should be

PACHUCA. 47
adepts in this particular. They are always examined
upon leaving the mines, for although they wear but little
clothing while at work, they often manage to conceal
considerable quantities of ore ; their hair, mouths, and
ears are therefore carefully examined.
Pachuca is the capital of the State of Hidalgo. The
Governor is said to be rather a rough character, who
takes great interest in cock-fights, carrying his bird
under his arm when he goes to witness the sport.
However, like many other men of this description, he
is not altogether without good qualities. He believes
in the right of the people to think for themselves on
the subject of religion, and encourages efforts made to
improve their condition.
Here, as everywhere, Sunday is simply a general
holiday; stores of all kinds are open, and all places of
amusement in full operation.
At certain hours the public fountains are crowded
with water-carriers, replenishing their huge jars; for
water in the dry season is very scarce, and its sale gives
employment to a large number of people. The chief
supply is rain-water, drained from the roofs into tanks
under ground. The appearance of the people certainly
indicates that the supply is limited.
There are about seventy Englishmen, with their
families, in and about Pachuca; most of them Cornish
miners, who act as superintendents of the various
branches of mining. Others are working old abandoned
mines, and are becoming wealthy, having recently struck
rich lodes. While a few have adopted some of the
4*

43 CITY OF MEXICO.
manners of the natives, we hear of none who have cul
tivated their morals.
The theory of the government here is good : the right
of private judgment is secured. A system of public
education has been established which is compulsory; all
children between the ages of six and ten are required to
attend school. There is a fine imposed on any mining
company that employs a child under ten years of age.
We attended service at the Mission chapel three
times to-day. In the morning an old-fashioned Love-
feast was held, followed by Sunday-school. In the
afternoon, Bishop M. preached a very good sermon to
the English people, after which he baptized twelve
children, all of English parents. A native, in the
evening, preached in Spanish to a large congregation of
his countrymen : the service closed with the sacrament
of the Lord's Supper and the baptism of two Indian
children. The occasion was one of great interest. This
Mission, will soon be self-supporting; steps have already
been taken to build a new and larger chapel, at the
expense of its friends in Pachuca. They may need
some outside help, if they do they will get it.
City of Mexico, Jan. 22.
Our party bade good-bye to Pachuca yesterday morn
ing. The diligence — Concord stage, really — contained
eleven passengers. Four men of my dimensions on a
seat intended for three made a pretty tight fit! The
thirty-two miles' ride gave me all I wanted of this
kind of traveling, for the road was rough, and the dust

CITY OF MEXICO. 49
fearful. I had engaged a seat in the stage from Mexico
to Guanaxuato, a distance of three hundred miles, one of
the points to be officially visited by the clerical brethren,
but my zeal was not equal to seventeen hours' torture a
day for three days: a six-hours' ride had used me up,
so I concluded not to attempt a journey, which business
did not require nor pleasure invite, and let my friends
go without me. In consequence I had a week's more
time to spend in the city of Mexico.
It was my good fortune to be assigned to the care
of Dr. Julius A. Skilton, the Consul-General of the
United States. Dr. Si, after an unusually brilliant col
lege career, built for himself a lucrative practice in New
York, and was enjoying its benefits when the war
broke out. He at once responded to the call for
patriots, and served with marked distinction until the
Rebellion was supposed to be crushed and the Union
armies disbanded. Wounded, and in broken health
from his confinement in Libby Prison, he was com
pelled to withdraw from his profession and establish
his residence in a warmer climate; at the suggestions
of friends he located in Mexico. For quite a period
after his arrival he continued to be an invalid, and was
unable to engage in business of any kind.
President Grant, familiar with the valuable services
he had rendered to the country, — unsolicited and solely
at his own instance, appointed him to the office which
he now holds, and which he has filled creditably to him
self, advantageously for the American citizens under
his immediate protection, and acceptably to the home

50 CITY OF MEXICO.
Government. Accomplished, hospitable, honest, saga
cious, fluent in the Spanish language, and versed in
ancient and modern Mexican lore, his diplomatic and
soldierly qualities have won for him distinguished and
respectful consideration from the Mexican Govern
ments rapidly succeeding each other during the eight
years of his consulship. Jan. 23.
Pleasant as are my surroundings, 'tis distance lends
enchantment to the climate of this country. It has
rained or hailed all day, and is so cold that I have
found it necessary to keep my overcoat on in the house.
They tell me the weather has been unusually severe this
winter. For the first time since I left home I have been quite
sick. My host was thoughtful enough to have a fire
made in a small stove in the dining-room by which my
comfort is greatly increased.
We have been absent four weeks, and it is time we
had heard from home* Great was my disappointment
when told that no letters had been received for as
homesick a pilgrim as ever left his family and fireside.
A visit to the Post-office gave no comfort. My pro
longed and unusual absence, with none of my family to
cheer me, lengthens the time of separation and increases
my gloom. In this state of despondency, to what more
appropriate place could I go than to the Cathedral ?
The Cathedral of the city of Mexico is on the Plaza
Mayor or principal square; at its left is the Sagrano or

CITY OF MEXICO. 51
general parish church of the town, entirely distinct from
the Cathedral. This edifice is founded on the site of
the great Teocalli or pyramid temple of the Aztecs,
which was destroyed by Cortes. Its dimensions are as
follows: from north to south, 426 feet; from east to
west, 200 feet ; heignt of roof, 175 feet. It was dedi
cated in 1667, and cost $1,956,000. The bases of its
columns are cut out of the Aztec idols which were
found in the teocalli. Everything about it is gorgeous
beyond conception, and certainly defies description ; the
splendor is barbaric, and its chief characteristic is pro
fusion. There is a perfect wilderness of statues,
columns, shrines, alters, and fonts. Upon entering,
one faces the choir for the clergy, which is built of rare
carved woods, and is elaborately covered with gilded
images ; beyond this is the high altar, covered with
crosses, candlesticks, and other paraphernalia, wrought
in precious metals. On the summit of this-bigh altar
is the figure of the Virgin of Remedios, whose wealth
of dresses and jewels is estimated at not less than three
millions of dollars.
Cemented in the wall on the side of the Cathedral is
the Aztec calendar, carved out of a block of basalt,
weighing twenty-five tons ; its diameter is eleven feet ;
it has been there since 1790, and is supposed to date
back as far as 1279. It is divided into three hundred
and sixty-five days, with an intercalation of thirteen
days for each cycle of fifty-two years, thus approaching
the Asiatic calendar.
From the Cathedral we paid a short visit to the

52 CITY OF MEXICO.
Academy of Fine Arts, which contains pictures, whose
number, antiquity, and value surprised me. It was
founded in 1551 by Charles V. At the National
Museum are to be found a larger collection of Aztec
and other relics. The court-yard is filled with idols and
gods in every variety. The object of greatest interest
is the Sacrificial Stone of basaltic rock ; it is nine feet
in diameter, three feet thick; was found in 1790 in the
Plaza, near the site of the Aztec Teocalli which was
destroyed by Cortes : the Cathedral was built upon the
site of this temple. Incredible numbers of people were
slain upon the stone ; twenty thousand a year are said
to have been slaughtered at what was known as the
" common sacrifice ;" and if historians may be believed,
sixty thousand were sacrificed in order to obtain blood
with which to consecrate the teocalli.
There are several statues of the Winged Serpent to be
seen here $ some are very curious, especially one which
has the head of a woman. How did this idea of the
woman and serpent creep into the worship of the
Aztecs? This is but one of the many coincidents of
thought reaching far, far back in the history of our
race. Another of the strange facts, is the resemblance of
these Aztec idols and monuments to those of Egypt :
the mythology of this ancient people immediately recalls
that of Egypt. How, too, does it happen that these
Pyramids so resemble those of the Nile? When the
country is in a condition that archaeologists may
safely examine its antiquities, I believe it will be found

CITY OF MEXICO. 53
that the wonderful people who built these Pyramids
and worshipped these idols, did at some time and some
how come from the land of Pharaoh ; if indeed the
Egyptian did not migrate from what wc call the New
World! The carving on some of the idols is 'wonderful : as
yet no tools have been found by which this work could
have been done. Within the Museum are thousands of
idols of all possible description, — of gold, silver, stone,
clay ; all kinds of material have been used to make all
.sorts of gods. Many interesting antiquities besides
idols are to be seen here ; the collection is very large,
and is constantly increasing by additions made by the
Government and private individuals. Numerous things
interested me in this wonderful collection ; but curiosity
was changed to horror when my attention was called to
glass cases in which were the remains of some of the
victims of the Inquisition. When the Inquisition
building was torn down for the purpose of cutting
streets through it, these remains were found in the
walls ; they had undoubtedly been walled up alive.
They were not simple skeletons, but mummies, the
action of the lime having so preserved them. In one
case was a woman with her arms in a position as if
holding a child to her breast; the child had fallen and
lay at her feet. Again I concluded there must be
future punishment for the fiends who could, in the
name of the loving and gentle Friend of Sinners, per
petrate such diabolical cruelty. Think of men claiming
to act on the authority of Him who said "Blessed are

54 CITY OF MEXICO.
the merciful, for they shall obtain mercy," walling up
this mother and her child to starve to death ! God
alone knows how many victims so perished. Within
the walls of this one Inquisition were found the bones
of thousands.
Of all facts of human history, that which has most
puzzled me is, how it was possible to build up such a
church from the teachings and example of the Divine
Author of the Beatitudes. His whole life was spent
in healing the sick, giving sight to the blind, in a
word, in doing good to the souls and bodies of men;
and when He was carried to heaven it was while in
the act of blessing His disciples, themselves but poor
fishermen. "How can these things be?" And vet,
while human testimony is to be believed, nay, while
the evidence of one's own eyes is to be trusted, we are
forced to admit the horrible inconaruitv.
The history of the world clearly proves, I think, that
although the man or the people, who accept and live by
the commands of the Founder of the Church, acquire
power and wealth, yet whenever this wealth and power
are possessed by the Church as an organization, corrup
tion in the teachings and decay in the morals of the
people takes place. So that that which was divinely
appointed to be a blessing, becomes a curse to the race.
All connection of Church with State produces mischief
if not ruin to both. Jan. 24.
Spent the day with a friend of Dr. S  's, who has a
country-seat a few miles beyond far-famed Chapultepec.

CITY OF MEXICO. 55
It is reached by the street cars, contains twelve or fifteen
acres, and is enclosed by a stone wall about fifteen feet
high. Here is to be seen a wonderful collection of fruit-
trees; it would be difficult to name a variety not repre
sented, including the smaller fruits and berries. This
property rents at $30 per month. The house is very
large, but out of repair, as are most buildings we have
noticed ; a small sum expended on it, however, would
make it a palace. The estate is for sale, being valued at
$6,000 ; such a property near Philadelphia would be
worth at least $100,000. This is not a rare case, and
the depreciation of value is due to the risk of living
outside the city. Mrs. S., her little daughter, and
myself had gone out in the street-cars; at noon, Dr. S.
and Dr. D.'s son came on horseback, both armed.
Think of carrying a brace of pistols on a ride in the
daytime to Germantown ! Not a native here dare go
outside of the city without weapons. Even the poor
Indians who bring charcoal and vegetables into Mexico
to sell, are often robbed of the few reales they earn.
Most of us have a horror of the whipping-post, but it
and the gallows seem the only cure for a condition of
affairs like this. When I compare such state of things
with the condition of society at home, I am inspired to
sing,— " My country, 'tis of thee,
Sweet land of liberty."
I have heard dreadful tales of villany on the part of
the Executive, Congress, Judges, and other Govern-
5

56 CITY OF MEXICO.
ment officials, that all are tainted with corruption ;
we have cause for complaint in the States, but we live
in paradise, compared with the hell in which these
people suffer.
A ride on the Grand Passo, the great drive of the
capital, showed it to be indeed a fine one. There were
hundreds of carriages, and many splendid Mexican
horses ridden by gentlemen in the picturesque Spanish
costume, — the sombrero, with its broad brim, the ever-
to-be seen zarape upon their shoulders, and the leather
pants. They were heavily armed, and altogether were
a novel sight to a citizen of the Quaker City.
A splendid full-blooded negro from the States called
on the Consul this morning to ask advice of him. His
story was curious and interesting. He had served four
years in the United States army, had been discharged,
and had drifted to Mexico in search of work. Here he
engaged to try his skill with a " Professor" of the
"art" of wrestling, to be paid seven dollars if he
were thrown, or twenty-five if he threw his antago
nist. The contest took place at the Theatre : and after
throwing the "Professor" as if he had been a child,
instead of hearing applause, the crowd yelled, "Kill
the Yankee ! kill the Yankee ! ! They were quieted
with difficulty by the negro offering to do it again, and
he did, — witli the same ease as before. This had been
too much for the spectators, who, with the same cries,
rushed on the stage to carry out their threats. He had
been saved from violence by the soldiers only, who
quelled the uproar with a free use of the butt-end of

CITY OF MEXICO. 57
their muskets. His antagonist had made him another
offer of fifty dollars for a repetition of his feat, and this
citizen of the United States came to ask the Consul-
General if he should accept it. He was told that if he
again won, the crowd would certainly kill him. The
Mexicans hate the Yankees, because they fear them,
and there is a conviction in the minds of many that at
some time or other, these neighbors of theirs will make
them a prolonged visit, without invitation ! Jan. 28.
Here, as in other Mexican cities, there is no Sabbath.
All the stores, except the few owned by Protestants,
are open, and trade is in full operation. Saints' days
are kept with some solemnity, but Sundays are of no
account. I attended service at the Union Church of
the English-speaking residents, where Presbyterians,
Episcopalians, Baptists, and Methodists are one in the
effort to maintain their common faith. This church is
an example of what I believe to be the " Holy Catholic
Church." In the evening I attended the Methodist
Mission Sabbath-school, which meets at 6.30 P. M. The
school is doing great good, and being taught to sing is
an especial pleasure to the children. I was compelled
to talk, which I did in my best English to scholars
who could only understand Spanish ! What was said,
however, was, of course, interpreted.
At 7.30 P. M. the Presbyterian Mission Avas visited.
The chapel had been bought by the pastor, the Rev. M.
N. Ilutchinson with his own means, and presented to

58 CITY OF MEXICO.
the Mission : it is the most pleasant chapel I have seen
in the city. The sermon was in Spanish by a native,
and although I could not understand its words, I felt
its power. There was a magnetism about the speaker
that could only come from the inspiration of the sub
ject. The singing was led by Mr. Hutchinson, and
was the best I have heard in Mexico. If he could
preach as he can sing, he would be indeed a master
workman, for he is all soul. I was sorry to learn later
that he is unable to preach, being troubled witli heart
disease. This pastor is the only man I have met who
works hard, — and "finds" himself! Jan. 29.
I have suffered ever since my arrival from the indoor
cold; these stone houses are so damp and chilly that
warm wraps are absolutely necessary. Again I sing
" Home, sweet home."
There are more intoxicated people to be seen here in
a day than one would see at home in a week ; both
men and women get very, very drunk, for the national
beverage induces the stupidest state of intoxication
possible. Oh, pulque! thou art a great curse. Jan. 31.
Though ill enough to have been even a little fright
ened about myself, the kindness received from the good
Samaritan whose hospitality I enjoy, was almost com
pensation for being sick. The Doctor's skillful treat
ment, and the good nursing of his thoughtful wife, soon

CHAPULTEPEC. 59
cured the cold I had contracted, and to-day I am quite
well again. I can never forget the kindness of these
dear friends: God bless them !
We drove to-day to Chapultepec, famous and interest^
ing to all Americans, on account of its assault and
capture by Gen. Scott. It is about four miles from the
city, at the termination of the Grand Passo, and was
'once the site of the palace of Montezuma II., then of
that of Cortes and the Viceroys. The present building
was the summer residence of the successive Presidents
of the Republic, and of Maximilian, and is .now in
process of repairs for the use of President Diaz. Lerdo
expended large sums of money for its decoration ;
some of the paintings the present Government causes to
be kept covered, because unfit for the public gaze. From
this point is obtained the finest view of the city of
Mexico and the surrounding plains. Nothing could
excel the beauty of the spot : there, at the base of the
rocky eminence, is a noble forest of cypress trees, —
some of which are of immense size, one, at a height of
10 feet from the ground, being 46 feet in circumference,
towering 165 feet high. The whole forest is covered
with a beautiful drapery of Spanish moss, so heavy and
dense that it is dark in these woods at mid-day. There
is no place in Mexico to compare with this in regard to
natural beauty and historic interest. Here, centuries
ago, stood these same grand trees witnessing the bar
baric splendor of the Aztecs. Could they speak, what
tales they might tell, what mysteries they could clear;
but they stand silent now, as through ages.
5*

60 CHAPULTEPEC.
The Baths of Montezuma are at the foot of the hill,
and are interesting to all visitors.
The Mexicans feel sore even yet, over the capture of
Chapultepec; not at the capture only, but at the
"unfair" advantage Gen. Scott took. Three sides of
the hill were fortified : instead of attacking one of these.
Gen. Scott was base enough to approach and take the
citadel from its only unprotected point ! It was mean,
wasn't it?
This was one of the retreats of Maximilian and his
royal companion in distress, Carlotta : it was the pur
pose of the latter to greatly improve its surroundings.
The fate of the unfortunate Queen receives much sym
pathy from most of the people, and there are few but
admit that the execution of Maximilian was, to say the
least, a blunder : the whole is an exceedingly unpleasant
subject to them.
This afternoon another American, his wife and daugh
ter and myself, were taken by Mrs. S. to the town of
Guadalupe, three miles from the city. It is the centre
of great interest as the place in which occurred one of
the most world-renowned miracles, and is the Mecca of
the surrounding country. The legend of the Virgin of
Guadalupe is over long for my note-book, but I cannot
pass by this ojmortunity of showing the credulity of the
people, and relating one of the impositions by which
the poor Indians were induced to accept the new
religion. The story of the Virgin and of the building of the
richly adorned church is as follows : In the year 1531,

GUADALUPE. 61
as Juan Diego, a recently converted Indian, was cross
ing the barren hill of Tepeyacac, on his way to Tlatelolco
to attend service, there appeared to hjm the Virgin
Mary in a white and shining cloud, surrounded by a
rainbow. She told him it was her will that a temple
should be built to her upon that spot, and directed him
to communicate her command to the Bishop, promising
her protection to the nation if her wish were carried
out. The Indian repaired to the Bishop — Senor Don
Francisco de Zumanaga — who heard with incredulity
the story of the humble man. Juan Diego reported
this to the Virgin, who appeared to him again at the
same place, and who renewed her commands. Upon
hearing this the Bishop demanded some sign from the
Holy Lady, and when the Indian repaired to the place
where the vision was given him, spies followed him by
the Bishop's orders. As he neared the spot he was,
however, concealed from them, and they returned with
the report that he was an impostor. The Virgin, upon
hearing the Prelate's answer, promised a sign tho next
day. Juan Diego failed to go for it, prevented by the
sudden alarming illness of his uncle. The day follow
ing that upon which the sign was to have been given,
while he was crossing the little mountain by another
path, going for a priest to administer the sacraments to
his dying relative, the Virgin appeared to him again,
promised the recovery of his uncle (who was cured at
that hour, and who also received a visit from the Holy
Lady, with similar commands as to the building of her
temple), ordered him to go to the spot where she had

62 GUADALUPE.
before appeared to him, gather the flowers he would
find there, and bring them to her in his talma or apron.
Though knowing this desolate place never produced
flowers, the pious Indian went as she directed, and
found a bed of beautiful fragrant flowers! He brought
them to her, and the Holy Virgin arranged them in his
talma, by her touch imparting virtue to them, and told
him not to allow any one to see them till he had taken
them to the Bishop. The attendants of the Prelate
refused him admission, and by force discovered what
he had tried to conceal from them. They attempted to
seize the flowers, but were prevented by the power of
the Virgin, who caused the blossoms to become a part
of the material of the talma itself when touched by these
violent hands. Upon this marvel they hastened to
inform the Bishop of his presence, who desired him to
appear before him immediate!}'. As Juan opened his
talma to show the sign, the flowers fell to the ground,
and a picture of the Holy Lady herself appeared painted
upon the garment! All were astonished, but none
more so than the Indian.
The fame of the miracle spread afar ; the people de
manded to see the picture of the Holy Virgin, so the
Bishop had it placed in the Cathedral Church at
Mexico, where it remained until the completion of the
hermitage, on the spot which the Indian pointed out as
the place where the church was to be built. To this
day this edifice is a point of greater interest than any
other church in all Mexico. I cannot attempt to
describe it; I will only relate that the chapel was built

GUADALUPE. 63
on the spot indicated by the Indian, and the Cathedral
erected at the base of the hill has had more wealth
expended on it and is of more importance than any in
the country, except perhaps the Cathedral of the city
of Mexico. The cost of the altars, images, with their
rich jewels, the railings of solid silver, the paintings,
vases, candlesticks, to say nothing of the carving and
gilding, precious stones, and costly robes of the priests,
would reach a sum that would bewilder the imagina
tion and challenge belief. To walk through this church
and gaze on its marvelous wealth, and then turn to the
half clad worshipers kneeling before some shrine, or at
a confessional, — and consider the depth of poverty to
which the majority of the people have been brought,
presents an illustration of one extreme begetting another.
The point of interest in this bewildering display of
riches is the original miraculous painting of the Virgin,
which is enclosed in a golden frame, and hangs back of
the great altar. It is guarded with extreme care, but
visitors are allowed to view it — at a distance. Deter
mining to get as close as possible, and having gained
the favor of a good-natured looking priest, who was
carrying around a plate upon which to receive the con
tributions of the faithful, we were led by him back of
the altar, in such close proximity to the picture, that
we could even see the threads of the canvas in some
places where the paint was worn off.
One must be careful in expressing an opinion on this
work of art, especially if not a competent judge of paint
ing ; even an acknowledged authority on the subject

64 GUADALUPE.
would hesitate to criticise a masterpiece, which is not
the production of any of earth's artists. For myself, I
will only say, did I wish to procure the portrait of a
friend, I would prefer to employ the brush of a mundane
being, rather than that of the celestial artist who gave
the world this likeness of the Virgin Mary. And yet
for more than three hundred years has the Church
taught these poor Indians to receive this fraud as of
equal authority with the records of the New Testament.
During all this period there has been a stream of
money flowing into the coffers of the priests that defies
calculation. The 12th of December is the great saint's
day of the year, the day of the Lady of Guadalupe,
when Guadalupe is crowded with pilgrims come to
worship at the shrine of the Virgin ; many of them
walk on their knees from the city, stopping at the
numerous crosses by the way, to pray; the way
side shrines contain images to whom the supplications
are directed. Large profits are made by the sale of
rosaries, ribbons measuring the size of the Virgin's head,
medals, and other such like sacred treasures, all said to
have been blessed by the Holy Lady. Of course we
bought some, blessing included. In addition to other
sources of income, the Church of the Virgin runs a
lottery for its benefit. — "My kingdom is not of this
world." Feb 2.
Received last evening my first letters from home :
was I not happy ! I felt good, slept well, had sweet
dreams, and am like a new man this morning because

CITY OF MEXICO. 65
of the news that all was well. The distance that
separates us decreased at least a thousand miles ! Feb. 3.
Mrs. S., the children, and myself attended service at
the great Cathedral in the hope of hearing some music,
but there was none. The sights of grandeur that every
where meet one in this temple dazzle and bewilder.
They must be seen to be appreciated.
On our return we learned that Dr. S. was obliged to
go to Pachuca to be present at an important trial. To
see and hear the preparations for his journey gave a
clear idea of the real danger threatening life and pro
perty in Mexico. The distance is seventy miles; the
party consisted of three; one to ride in a buggy, two
on horseback.
" Have you any arms ? " casually asks the Dr. of Mrs.
S. "Only a pair of Derringers," is the reply. The
Dr. requests his wife to. get him another pistol. "Do
you want mine?" she asks, as coolly as if referring to
an umbrella. He takes one of her pistols and asks for
ammunition; Mrs. S. brings a box of different kinds of
cartridges, and they select what they want with as little
concern as if they sought odd buttons to be sewed on in
an emergency ! For some unexplained reason, the
Governor has for the first time refused a guard to
accompany the party, and the Dr. has to employ one
himself. What a country ! Feb. 4.
Paid a number of calls this morning with my
hostess ; visited Americans chiefly, among whom we

66 CITY OF MEXICO.
found none more agreeable than Mrs. Gen. Foster,
wife of our Minister to Mexico. Gen. Foster himself
was absent in obedience to a call from Washington.
I had letters of introduction to him, and regretted
not seeing him, but was compensated for this disap
pointment by the pleasure of meeting his wife and
family. I trust I am not trespassing upon their privacy
in saying here, that they are a credit to the Government,
civilization, and religion which they represent.
" Homes," as we know them, are very few in this
country ; there are no homes in this city that have a
home-look. All are built on the .one idea of protection
— against thieves and the sun. Entrance by front doors
is unknown, except into the adobe huts on the out
skirts. As in Havana, one enters by a large door or
gate, kept by a porter; the first or ground floor is
occupied by the porter's lodge, carriage-house, and
stables. Respectability is upstairs, with increase of
grade as one ascends. As, for instance, the American
Minister, with his family, lives on the third floor.
This is pleasant after one gets there, but, with the
height of the stories and the difficulty of climbing in
this altitude experienced by old or heavy people, pay
ing social visits means — business !
On our rounds to-day, we met the usual number of
leperos, the most dreadful-looking creatures it is pos
sible to imagine, as I have before noted. They make
one shudder. It has been said that what this nation
needs is the Gospel and soap, the possessson of the
former certainly involves the use of the latter.

CITY OF MEXICO. 67
A dispatch just received announces the safe arrival of
Dr. S. and his party; this is good news, as the trip was
one of danger, as above mentioned.
The Rev. Mr. Hutchinson, the Presbyterian mission
ary, has just called ; a grand man he is ! One meets
with no difficulty in finding where his heart is, if it is
looked for where he has stored his treasure — in his
work. However true it may be that the " laborer is
worthy of his hire,'' it is refreshing to find a man who,
having ample means with which to live at ease, devotes
his life to the cause which is dearer to him than life, in
a place where few are willing to venture. I confess I
like Missionary Hutchinson. His singing is an inspira
tion ; when at his chapel I found myself singing away
in Spanish, as though I could read every word of it. It
was so much like the old-fashioned meetings I attended
when a boy. God bless the workman and his work !
I believe all the missionaries are doing good, and the
Government is determined to protect them. It is
apparent that The Church is dead, and that nothing
but the vitalizing power of a pure Christianity can
better the people. Feb. 5.
This is not a saint's day, nor a church holy-day, but
a national holiday, a legal commemoration of the
adoption of the National Constitution. So we have
had three holidays in succession — Saturday, a saint's
day, Sunday, the Lord's day, and this the nation's
day. It is a misfortune that there are too many
holidays. All work and no play may make Jack a
6

68 FLOATING GARDENS.
dull boy, but all play and no work certainly makes
Don a very dull man.
The climate has much to do with the question of
labor; in the tropics and at this altitude work is indeed
work, but a little yields great results. The soil is so
productive, and fruits are so abundant, that if the
people would let pulque alone, little labor would bo
required to supply their wants.
If I were not in the tropics I should say this weather
was cold, and it is considered fresh even for this lati
tude. The sky is wondrously beautiful ; it must be seen,
as we see it now, for one to know just how beautiful a
Mexican sky can be.
A visit to the famous "Floating Gardens" shows,
alas ! that they do not float. They did originally, but
now the roots of the trees planted on them have fastened
them to the earth. They are simply narrow pieces
of land intersected by canals, which supply them with
moisture, making them very productive. These strips
are from twenty to two hundred feet wide. During
very dry weather the natives go in boats and wet
them, scooping up and throwing the water in the most
primitive way. The fertility of these gardens is astonish
ing, and they are really the flower and truck gardens
for the whole city of Mexico. On our way we stopped
at a cemetery connected with an ancient church built
by Cortes. All over its surface are scattered human
skulls and bones; around one grave there were piled
some twenty of the former. I picked up one and took
from it some teeth.

CHAPULTEPEC. 69
Feb. 6.
One of the brightest of all the bright mornings in
this beautiful land ! We took advantage of the day to
get the view from Chapultepec, beyond question the
finest we have had of the Valley of Mexico. The
whole basin lies before us showing clearly, that it must
at one time have been a lake. We are surrounded by
mountains, some with their summits snow-crowned.
Popocatepetl and its mate, Ixtacihuatl, rear their hoary
heads far in the region above. The enchanting valley,
the grand mountains, the cloudless sky, what a scene !
How applicable to beautiful but ruined Mexico, the
poet's description, that; —
" every prospect pleases,
And only man is vile!"
A garden of Eden, cursed by Popery and pulque.
Oh ! that the time may soon come when it shall be
rescued from these influences, and theu shall it arise and
shine to the Glory of the Lord.
I paid a visit this afternoon to another cemetery, 125
by 100 feet in area; there were but few graves, for most
of the dead had been placed in niches in the walls of
the tombs; here they allow them to rest fur a given
time, after which all that remains of them is burned
that the places they occupied may be used for others.
Neglect of the dead is a marked peculiarity of the
country ; human bones are to be found almost any
where, no more care being taken of the bones of a man
than those of any other animal.

70 TACUBAYA. Tacubaya, Feb. 7.
In company with several friends, our party visited
the country place of William Barron, the son of an
Irishman, one of the most wealthy men in the Repub
lic, and who resides at Tacubaya. When we asked how
he became rich, we were answered by a Spanish shrug
of the shoulders and " Quien sabe?" (Who knows?) It
is not important that we should know, but of this I am
positive, that nothing which has fallen under my observa
tion equals his establishment in its display of wealth
and taste. The house, or rather palace, the garden, with
its lakes of spring water, the statuary scattered through
its walks, the numerous picturesque bridges over run
ning brooks, the fruits of almost every known variety,
and flowers that the tropics alone can produce, present
the result of a rarely cultivated taste in the use of
unlimited means. Here, as when viewing the matchless
beauties of the landscape, I regret my inability to give a
fair idea of its charms. I must, however, note the many
exquisite paintings that adorn his walls. There is such
a profusion of gems of art and vertu, that unless one
were prepared to write a descriptive catalogue, it would
be impossible to give an adequate idea of what we saw.
There are hundreds of representations of the Crucifixion
in the many churches we have visited, and in the
Academy of Fine Arts, as well as in private collections,
but none I have seen compares with either of the two
paintings on this subject in William Barron's collection.
Though possessing by no means a cultivated taste, I
could not but linger long, gazing at these inspira-

TACUBAYA. 71
tions of genius. Had the artist who painted the picture
of the Lady of Guadalupe produced such a painting as
either of these, there would be some excuse for believ
ing it of divine origin.
It is doubtful whether, in the Palace itself, there are
apartments which equal those of this mansion in rich
ness of furniture and ornamentation, and yet such is
the condition of society, that the family dare not occupy
it longer than a few weeks at a time, for fear of being
kidnapped and held for ransom ! This, be it remem
bered, within four miles of the capital itself!
In plain English, the Church having had undisputed
control of the country for more than three hundred
years, has produced a nation of thieves. Is it not time
some other means be tried to teach this people the
'morality of the Christian religion? Feb. 10.
An invitation was sent Dr. S. to attend the services
for the repose of the soul of Victor Emanuel, the late
King of Italy. The Doctor being absent from home, I
had the privilege of representing him in the use of his
ticket, and had an opportunity of seeing all the great
men of Mexico, many in official dress. The display of
gold and silver- lace, orders, ribbons, and other insignia,
was general. The church was finely decorated for the
great occasion, and the crowd was immense. It
especially interested us, as we had never before wit
nessed the celebration of Grand High Mass.
The service continued two hours and a half. The
6*

72 CITY OF MEXICO.
music was all that brass and stringed instruments,
accompanied by two organs (such as are rarely found in
Protestant churches), could produce. How many bands
and orchestras were in attendance we did not learn. I
do know it was a great feast to us. Male voices per
formed the vocal parts and added to the grandeur of
the effect. One curious feature of the service, novel at
least to us, was the distribution to the invited spectators
of wax candles about two feet long, which were lighted
as the attendants gave them out. We each took one,
and held it for about a half hour, when they were col
lected ; in a short time this performance was repeated.
I had no idea of the meaning of it, but was quite Avill-
ing to be of that much use to the deceased King, if
it could be of any service to him ! I was puzzled
to account for the interest taken in him dead, who
was so troublesome, living. Need one wonder that
such a display of all that can delight the eye and
enchant the ear carries the great mass of the people
with it? The trouble is that the Church of Rome,
with all its power to charm the senses, fails to improve
the morals of the people it controls.
The church in which this service was held, was for
merly the Church of the Inquisition, and is connected
with it by an under-ground passage. The main portion
of the Inquisition is now used as barracks for the troops
of the Republic. The world moves.
I have been introduced to Bishop Keener of the
Methodist Episcopal Church South, who is here with.
the Rcy. Mr. Patterson to help on the great work of

CITY OF MEXICO. 73
undoing the evil of a corrupt and perverted religion.
The harvest is indeed great, but the laborers very few.
Feb. 11.
Yesterday will be long remembered by the English-
speaking congregation here, for Dr. D. preached such a
sermon, as they say, was never heard before. It was so
simple that a child could understand every word, so
tender that many were moved to tears ; so clear, so full
of the Gospel of the love of God, that it carried all
before it. There was no display of learning or oratory,
nor, in a word, of the preacher; he hid himself in his
subject, the controlling thought being — " the end of the
preaching of the Gospel." Such preaching must do
good. In the evening there was a missionary meeting in the
chapel of the Methodist Episcopal Church, the interest
of which was marred by lengthy speeches. Then, too,
it was very cold — said to be the coldest day in years.
We, who had expected warm weather, are compelled
to wear overcoats in the house ; yet we are told there
are not five houses in the city furnished with means
for having a fire. Feb. 12.
We were taken yesterday to see the most curious
spot we have yet visited. About three miles from the
Palace, on a plain near Lake Texcoco, is a mountain of
lava. It is a most singular mass of pure volcanic rock ;
how it got there is the wonder. There are in it a num
ber of cavis in which live the wildest-looking Indians

74 LAKE TEXCOCO.
we have yet met. Neither on the mountain nor on the
plain in its neighborhood is there any vegetation what
ever, except a growth of prickly cactus. Near by are
hot springs formerly used as baths, but now abandoned;
the only houses in the vicinity are mud huts, the occu
pants of which are as far removed from anything like
civilization as the most degraded savages of our Western
Plains. This, too, within sight of scores of churches
that have cost untold millions to build and maintain;
and yet these poor Aztecs are "perishing for lack of
knowledge," starving for want of the " bread of life."
As the wind sweeps over the plain there are un
covered many fragments of ancient pottery, most of
them of Aztec make.
I doubt if there is any spot in all Mexico where the
people are so degraded as here ; dirty, well nigh naked,
their condition must be seen to be comprehended. Some
thing is wrong. Why is it that the more numerous and
costly the churches, the more degraded the people?
There is no place on earth where the simple teachings
of Christ are more needed than here, where the Catholic
Church has had unlimited control. Protestants cannot
do worse possibly. Give them a trial. Azcapozalco, Feb. 13.
The weather is warmer, and therefore more pleasant.
After a dusty ride of au hour, we reached what was
once the large city of Azcapozalco, but is now a mass of
ruins. As is usual, the Church is the centre of interest;
it is of immense size, but is in the same state of dilapi-

AZCAPOZALCO — TACUBA. 75
dation, as everything else. We attempted to get into it
but failed, as the few priests belonging to it were absent.
As we were about to leave, three suspicious-looking
fellows offered to take us in by a back entrance, but
Mrs. S., though a plucky little lady, did not think it
safe to trust them, and as the rest of us could not under
stand a word they said, she had to decide the matter:
she said they were " too willing," and we reluctantly
left without seeing the interior.
We then drove to another ancient city, Tacuba ;
here, too, a church was the only object of interest; it
was built in 1655, but is not as large or costly as many
before visited. We gained admittance, but found no
paintings or other attractions. There was a collection
of daubs of revolting subjects, such as scenes of torture,
also a glass case containing the mummified remains
of some bishop or other saint ; in a second was another
unlabelled life-size wax-figure, and the whole interior
of the place was odious to the last degree. We were
glad to leave. There is no point presenting an
extended view but reveals large and magnificent
churches. If the piety of the people is to be measured
by the number and expensiveness of churches, convents,
and monasteries, they must be considered very righteous
indeed ; but the facts, show that in proportion to the
number and cost of these buildings the people are poor,
ignorant, and degraded. When the Church was richest,
the nation was bankrupt.
It is seven weeks since we left home, and we have as
yet had but one mail ; the latest newspaper from the

76 CITY OF MEXICO.
United States is a month old, and there is no prospect
of later news for some time.
The Mexicans are at least a hundred years behind us
in all the conveniences of social life or business. For
instance, the postage on a letter of a half-ounce weight
for any distance is twenty-five cents, and there is but
one delivery a day.
There is no country in which the Catholic Church
has had a better chance of proving itself a moral power
than in this; no country has been more under its con
trol, or expended more money to build and maintain its
institutions. What is the result of all this outlay ?
After as full and impartial inquiry as could be made,
there is but one conclusion possible, that there is no
civilized country on earth where life and property are
less secure, or morals as low. There are more objects of
pity and disgust to be seen in an hour's walk in the
city of Mexico than would be found in Philadelphia in
a year, they are to be met everywhere.
We have just learned that around Pachuca so bold
and reckless had the robbers become, that the people
combined and turned out to rid that part of the country
of them ; four were killed, teu wounded, and fourteen
taken prisoners. The general Government is doing all
it can to improve matters, but receives little co-opera
tion from the States themselves.
One of the most striking and unpleasant facts to a
stranger is the want of decency in dress and behavior,
everywhere and at all times noticeable. The manners
are in harmony with the morals of the people.

CITY OF MEXICO. 77
There can be no heathen land in greater need of the
Gospel, nor one that promises so large results for out
lay by missionary societies as the Republic of Mexico.
The field is white to the harvest ; let the Protestants of
the United States come over and share in the work.
They are in the ditch of ignorance, poverty, and well
nigh of despair; let us give them a helping hand. Feb. 14.
A pleasing incident has come to my notice. The
children of Messrs. Foster, Skilton, Hutchinson and
Wilson have formed a little society, whose object is the
support of four orphans. Each one contributes a certain
sum per week from his own pocket money, soliciting
from their friends anything additional that may be
needed. A drunken mother some time ago pawned her
year old child for a dollar, with which to buy pulque.
She failed to redeem it and the infant was offered for
sale. These young people heard of the case, bought
the child and paid for its care until its death. This led
them to think and talk of what they could do to assist
the helpless, and the result is as stated. Who would
not encourage Master Skilton and his young friends in
their good work ?
An incident occurred this morning. Mrs. S. was
out shopping, and had made one purchase, which she
placed in her carriage. Upon coming out of another
store she saw a commotion ; an officer held in arrest a
man who had stolen her package from the carriage, and
had recovered the. parcel. He insisted upon taking

78 CITY OF MEXICO.
both it and prisoner to the station-house ; but Mrs. S.,
knowing that would be the last she would ever see of
her property, refused to let him have it; whereupon
the officer released the thief, though caught in the very
act, and having the stolen goods in his possession. It
appears that articles taken to police quarters never
find their way back to their owners. Feb. 15.
Returning from a ride this afternoon, when within a
short distance of the Consulate we saw a mounted
officer at full speed in pursuit of a man. Being so
near, I went out to ascertain the cause of the trouble,
and saw at the next corner a dozen persons leaning
over another man who had just been stabbed to the
heart, and was dying. A quarrel had been settled in
the usual way. Such events occur so frequently that
they create little excitement. Shortly after, word came
in that the man was dead. Of course, the occurrence
was the subject of conversation at the tea-table. Dr. S.
assured us that it was nothing unusual — ten or fifteen
such events being the daily average. Feb. 16.
I have supposed that the Catholic Church claimed,
that its doctrines and precepts were always and every
where the same; I begin to doubt it, for its teachings
in the cities and rural districts are widely diverse, and
in the former are still gradually undergoing radical
change. Now, the instructors are told not to trespass

CITY OF MEXICO. 79
too much on the credulity of the increasing intel
ligence of the people. Outside of the cities they
keep up many of their absurd customs. Mr. P., an
English gentleman who for many years has held a very
important position in one of the largest silver mines,
has just visited Dr. S. He gave us an interesting
description of the procession which ushers in tho Christ
mas-day festivities, in the town where he resides.
Priests and minor church officials form a prominent
feature of it, but interest principally centres in a young
woman — supposed to be the most beautiful maiden
attainable — who, mounted on an ass, is costumed to
represent the ATirgin Mary enciente; by her side walks
a man personating Joseph. They go from house to
house, begging for shelter, which according to pro
gramme is refused, so that at length they are obliged to
seek refuge in a stable. After a while,— appropriately
divested of superfluous make-up, — the Virgin appears
as the happy mother of a wax-doll baby which she
holds in her arms, and which, as the Infant Christ,
receives the oblations of the awaiting multitude.
By such means the poor Indians are amused, mysti
fied, and deceived, — but with the better class, this kind
of transparent nonsense has little or no effect, and is
seldom resorted to. But even tho latter are not per
mitted to read the Bible, under the penalty of incur
ring the anathemas of the Church if they do. As a
consequence, they do not really know what Protestants
believe or teach.
Mr. P. mentioned an incident which occurred at his
7

80 CITY OF MEXICO.
own house. An intelligent lady visiting there, picked
up a Bible and began to read it; afterward she pe
rused a prayer-book, prepared by the Rev. Mr. Reilly
of the Episcopal Mission, and in a little while ex
claimed, "Why, you are more than half Christians!
At least I judge so from these books. They are better
than I thought."
The Roman Catholic Church does not preach and
teach in our couutry the same absurdities which I have
mentioned, — why ? Why do not the priests there, go
from the church service to the cock-pit or the bull
fight? Why do they not pass their time around wine
shops getting up lotteries for the support of their insti
tutions ? In short, why do they not live as do the
priests of the same Church in Mexico? It may be
answered that it is not lawful in the United States to
have cock or bull-fights, or to open wine-shops on Sun
day. Why is it not lawful ? Is it because the Roman
Catholic Church does not control public sentiment, does
not make the laws there as here? I am willing that
my Catholic friends, many of whom I greatly respect,
should more satisfactorily answer this question if they
can. Of one thing there is no doubt; that whatever
refining, purifying, and enlightening power there is in
that Church or her teachings, she has had every oppor
tunity for its development in Mexico, and if we are to
judge by fruits, what of this tree ? Is it a good tree
bringing forth good fruit? If not, " Why cumbereth
it the ground 1"

CITY OF MEXICO. 81
Feb. IS.
Yesterday morning Bishop M. gave us a clear, sound,
and sensible sermon. In the afternoon Dr. D. preached
only as such a warm, genial, loving soul as he can preach.
The English speaking residents enjoyed both services,
and expressed the opinion that the visit of these gentle
men will be of great benefit to the Missions.
About 4.30 A. M. I was awakened by a noise, which
I supposed was in my room or the one adjoining;
there were two reports or concussion. I wondered
what it could be, and looked around to see if any one
was in my room; then thinking it must bo the bed
stead creaking, I remembered it was iron ; finally
concluding it was one of the many inexplicable wonders
of this wonderful country, I thought of my distant
home and took a morning nap. At breakfast we were
informed that the noise was a, real earthquake! and
that usually there are several shocks at short intervals ;
so we intend to look out for the next. Of course the
S.'s are authority, as their many years' residence here
has made them familiar with these phenomena. Feb. 19.
Having seen all the points of interest in and about
this city of Mexico, and being disgusted with much that
I am obliged to behold daily, especially the almost uni
versal drunkenness, I am quite ready to say good-bye
to the place, though not forgetful of the generous
hospitality received at the hands of my kind host and
hostess.

6Z CITY OF MEXICO.
My companions have completed their work, and we
leisurely turn our faces homeward. We will be obliged
to wait for our steamer, and as Vera Cruz is not a city
of refuge to those unacclimated, never being free from
Vomito negro (black vomit), the most malignant type of
yellow fever, — we have agreed to spend a few days at
Orizaba to look at Mission affairs.
To one who has never seen a development of Spanish-
Catholic influence, the city of Mexico is a study. It is
true the majority of the population is a mongrel race,
with a preponderance of Indian blood ; but making due
allowance for this, the condition of the nation demon
strates the absence of a moral force to restrain, elevate,
or purify the spiritual character of the people. The
Church accepts a faithful conformity to its dogmas and
ritual, as more important than "doing justly, loving
mercy, and walking humbly before God." An eminent
author writes: "This religion, in countries where it
predominates or is connected with the Government, is
widely different from the same religion as it appears in
the United States of North America. Instead of being
employed, as all religions ought to be, in directing the
morals, purifying the hearts, and restraining the vices of
the people, it is so prostituted in Spanish countries that
it has become nothing but a mass of superstitious cere
monies, and the instrument of avarice and oppression."
It is a question whether this is not true of all religions
that attempt to control the civil government/for priests
of every creed obtain a sacred character in the minds of
the ignorant, who are ready to believe that they part

ORIZABA. 83
with their human nature in assuming the calling of the
sacred office. Civil liberty is never safe when a govern
ment is in the hands of the Church, whether it be Catholic
or Protestant. Okizaba, Feb. 22.
We left the city of Mexico at midnight, and through
the courtesy of the President of the railroad, were pro
vided with a compartment car for the exclusive use of
our own party of four, which gave us plenty of room
and consequent comfort.
By daylight we reached that portion of the road
showing, perhaps, some of the most wonderful feats of
engineering in the world. Fearful ravines were
spanned by iron bridges, that look like cobwebs, and
yet so firm were they that not a quiver was noticeable
as the ponderous Varley engine with its train passed
over them. Every now and then there opened to view,
the most beautiful landscapes, changing with every
turn in the road : here a stream rushing over broken
rocks, a thousand feet below the track, formed a lovely
silver cataract, — lost in an instant as we rushed through
a tunnel that brought us to a totally different scene :
there, little farms and gardens, groves of coffee, oranges,
bananas, and scores of unknown fruits, made the whole
valley too beautiful to seem real, — a veritable fairy
land. We were kept in a constant query, why a
country of such richness, and with such resources should
be inhabited by a people so degraded that they seem
utterly incapable of appreciating the bountiful wealth
with which Provideuce has blessed them. It is itn-

84 ORIZABA.
possible to describe the grandeur of this section ; if it
were nearer the States, or easier of access, one member
of this party Avould often feast on the attractions of
this marvellous road.
The distance, from the city of Mexico to Orizaba
is one hundred and eighty miles, the difference of
altitude 3,500 feet. The effect of the descent to this
lower elevation is as surprising as it is grateful, it is
like reaching a new world; the air is soft and balmy,
respiration easy, and we can walk or climb without the
exhaustion which follows upon the same effort on the
tableland of the plain. Orizaba, like most cities of
Mexico, is situated in a basin-like valley ; literally sur
rounded by mountains, at One side they appear to be so
near that we seem to be at their feet, but nothing is as
deceptive as distance in this atmosphere; mountains
apparently within five or six miles, are likely to be fifty
miles away. This city and Cordova — about eighteen
miles below — are considered very beneficial for persons
with weak lungs.
At mid-day it is very hot, compelling us to seek the
shade until the sun hides behind the mountains. At
Boca del Monte we saw icicles from eight to ten inches
long, and it was so cold we were glad to use all the
wraps we had, even wishing for more. No one should
go to the city of Mexico without plenty of warm cloth
ing, and it should be widely known that the atmosphere
of that city, owing to its rarity, is fatal to persons with
heart or lung diseases. The reverse is true of this lower
altitude, and yet it is 4,000 feet above the sea.

ORIZABA. 85
Feb. 23.
One day in this city has proved of the greatest pos
sible benefit to me ; I have slept more soundly and have
been more refreshed by sleep, than I have since I left
the steamer. This is the place for invalids.
In the morning we took a ride to a most charming
waterfall, and had, on the trip, a practical illustration of
the difference in. the effect of this elevation as compared
with a higher. At Puebla, Cholula, and the city of
Mexico, about 8,000 feet,— or higher yet (10,000 feet), as
at Real del Monte, — any great exertion was impossible ;
here, 4,000 feet high, we can walk, climb, and exercise
without any undue fatigue, and with the relief of a free
perspiration, which keeps one in good condition and
makes work agreeable. Would we had reached here
sooner and could remain longer !
After visiting the falls we were taken to a large
sugar-mill, where we saw all the processes of convert
ing sugar-cane into loaf-sugar, and were greatly in
terested. From the mill, we were shown into the
garden attached to the place. Here were growing
pine-apples, cocoa-nuts, bananas, oranges, lemons,
sweet-lemons, and coffee, — in fact the variety of fruits it
contained was extraordinary. We were invited to eat
all we could, and carry away as much as we wished,
instructions which we obeyed to the best of our capacity
and ability. I confined my attention to oranges, and
though having plucked and eaten this fruit in Florida,
it is not injustice to the delicious orange of that sunny
State, to say that these surpassed any I ever tasted there.

86 ORIZABA.
It has been a high day for us; reveling in the
Halls of Montezuma was dry and tiresome in com
parison to the invigorating experience of to-day. I feel
" My willing soul would stay
In such a frame as this," —
but cannot forget that I'm a pilgrim and stranger, with
but one night left!
Having never seen coffee in cultivation bef>re my
trip to Mexico, the vast fields set apart for its produc
tion in this region, at once attracted my attention, and
recalled my first surprise at finding all my preconceived
ideas of its appearance entirely erroneous. I had sup
posed it grew in a pod, like a pea, or bean, but found it
the fruit of a tree, and hanging in clusters something
like cherries. We all supplied ourselves with branches
to take home, and hope they will retain their natural
appearance until we get there.
The people in this section are of a different type from
those found about the capital. They appear more docile,
are better behaved ; there is less drunkenness, and con
sequently life is safer than in any citv we have yet
visited. Another important reason for this fact is the
absence of mining interests, and the consequent tempta
tion to robbery ; then again here are the principal shops
of the railroad company : there can be no doubt but
that the railroad is helping to civilize the people.
A funeral has just passed the hotel; the coffin was
like those we see at home, but was covered with a black
cloth having a gold border; it was borne, just as a log

ORIZABA. 87
of timber might have been carried, by four men, bare
footed and in their shirtsleeves : the mourners, to the
number of seven or eight, dressed like the pall-bearers,
walked on the side-walk. Sunday, Feb. 24.
Here, as everywhere, all stores and places of business,
not owned by English, Germans, or Americans, are open
and doing thriving trade : here, too, as elsewhere, the
women and mules are the chief burden-bearers, the men
doing the lighter labor. In all the hotels we have
visited, men are employed where women would be with
us ; in fact, we have not seen a female servant in any
of them, — the work is too light for them !
A band of music attracts us to the window from
which we see a procession of men and women in fantastic
dress on horses, a clown leading, and. of course, a crowd
following. In addition to the circus, there is to be a
bull-fight this afternoon, and these entertainments will
be attended by priests as well as people. The sound of
billiard-balls in the next room indicates our near neigh
bors are observing Sunday in true Mexican style.
Imagine such a condition of society at home ! Yet
where the Roman Catholic Church has had control of
the State, — as it has had in this country until lately, — it
is the inevitable result. Is there a single instance in
the history of the past 1500 years where Church has
had the power to enforce her will, and has failed to
dominate State? There is but one answer, and it is
clear that every chance she again has, she will enforce
her dogmas by irresistible methods. Who can with-

88 ORIZABA.
stand the pressure of her arguments when enforced as
she knows how to enforce them ? It is ever true, —
" The price of liberty is eternal vigilance." Let us look
to our public schools !
I have just returned from a visit to the parish church ;
it is a large edifice, and well filled with what appeared
to be, — from the profound obeisances at each stroke of
a bell, — a very devout congregation : as usual, there
was the display of glass-cases containing wax Virgins
and Saints, clad in gorgeous array. Feb. 25.
This is our last day in the quietest and cleanest city
we have visited in Mexico; quiet, for reasons previously
noted, — clean, because of the abundant supply of water,
furnished by the numerous snow-fed streams coursing
down the sides of the surrounding mountains; water-
carriers are not necessary.
Last night we noticed a curious custom ; — from dark
until daylight the watchmen, in rapid succession, an
nounce the half-hour by two sharp, shrill whistles;
these, as they come from a greater and greater dis
tance, produce all the effect of an echo. This regula
tion, together with that requiring them to carry lighted
lanterns, will not soon be abolished with the consent of
rogues. Feb. 26.
AVe left Orizaba at noon yesterdays bidding a last
farewell to the grand mountain ranges. We had passed

VERA CRUZ. 89
over the railroad at night in going from Vera Cruz to
Orizaba, so daylight made it new to us.
It would be difficult to overstate the beauty of the
scenery along this route; no words could exaggerate it,
nor could any description give a perfect idea of it.
Tropical fruits and trees of all kind cover the ground
with a growth so dense that it seems impossible for
man or beast to penetrate it: it is almost a solid
mass of vegetation, and far more luxuriant than
any to be found in our Southern States. Some views
on this road are terribly wild, though none -are as
grand as some found between Orizaba, and Boca del
Monte The trains move very slowly on this part of the road,
not only for safety, but as a matter of economy in avoid
ing unnecessary wear and tear, for the company's busi
ness is not at present a paying one.
We met on the train the Rev. J. Wheaton Smith,
D. D., of Philadelphia, bearer of a most welcome batch
of letters from home ; having left the city of Mexico
before the mail was distributed, and being disappointed
at Orizaba in receiving any, Dr. S. was indeed entitled
to the great gratitude I felt, though possibly failed to
express. On arriving at Vera Cruz we went immediately to
our good ship the City of Merida, not, however, until
we had had a lively time with some people who claimed
about as much as our hand-bags were worth, for carry
ing them from the depot to the mole, probably a dis
tance of two blocks; then a policeman undertook to

90 VERA CRUZ.
prevent our boat from leaving the landing, but we
finally vanquished him. On reaching the steamer we
had another row, this time with the boatmen, who
had agreed to take us for two dollars, and afterward
demanded three. Dr. D. was cashier, and compromised
by paying two dollars and a half, — for less than thirty-
minutes' work. Feb. 27.
The most important task of the day was getting our
trunks from the depot to the steamer. We went ashore
at nine- A. M., and called at the office of the agent to
whom they were consigned ; there we learned that
nothing could be done toward their delivery until after
eleven o'clock, when the clerks would return from their
breakfasts ; we patiently waited the latter's arrival, and
then a porter was sent with the necessary receipts to the
depot. After another hour's wait for the reappearance
of this functionary, — who had to travel the immense
distance of two hundred yards, — we started in pursuit ;
he was found resting himself until the return of the
depot-agent, who had gone for his breakfast. This last
official turned up about one o'clock, and we were at last
put in possession of our property : a fair illustration of
how business is transacted in this country. La manana,
to-morrow, is the time for doing everything, but frank
ness compels the confession that two foreigners, one a
divine and one a layman, did not wait till la manana
to get up considerable ire at this delay. On the mole,
or custom-house pier, our baggage was inspected by
revenue officers, for the purpose of collecting duty on

VERA CRUZ. 91
any silver we might be exporting; it is hardly neces
sary to remark that our luggage passed free ; and in
this connection it is proper to bear testimony to the
uniform politeness and courtesy with which we have
been treated by these Government officials, — after a
cursory glance into our trunks, to receive a nod of " all
right," has been our invariable experience.
At last we were all on board. The hour for sailing
was five P. M. ; but we have already learned that
nothing in this part of the world is as certain as delay,
consequently we were not surprised, though somewhat
impatient (for our dinners!) when eight o'clock came
before we were off. While waiting, we beheld a scene
which, in matchless beauty, was inferior only to our
•first view of Orizaba. We had heard that its snowy
peak, though one hundred miles inland, could be
distinctly seen at sea, fifty miles from shore. When we
arrived it was cloudy, and we were consequently disap
pointed. Today it was hazy, until the sun, sinking to
its rest, illumiued the clouds behind the mountain with
colors so grouped and blended, that the whitened brow
of the grand old monarch, suspended betwixt heaven
and earth, seemed haloed with celestial glory ; and so
vivid was it, in its reflection of sublime beauty, that it
seemed but a few miles away. My first and last
glimpses of Orizaba are visions photographed on
memory, never to be effaced.
The gun fires, and we are off. We pass the Fort of
San Juan and are in the Gulf. Every indication fore
tells rough weather, and "Old Probabilities" would

92 CAMPECHE.
predict a norther, nevertheless, having waited three
hours for dinner, it is heartily partaken of and much
enjoyed. Most of the party, however, disappear shortly
afterward, already sick. Campeche, Feb. 28.
We are anchored off Campeche, waiting for the little
steamer to bring and carry off freight, necessary as
before mentioned, because the water is so shallow the
steamer can only get within twelve miles of shore.
The Gulf is smooth, and most of the passengers have
recovered from their late indisposition ; they appeared
at breakfast, where we also had the pleasure of meeting
the Captain's wife, who, like her husband, is very affable,
and adds much enjoyment to the company; but one '
other lady, a Mexican, who cannot speak English, is
on board. Captain Reynolds is as perfect an officer
as one could wish to sail with, always at his post, and
always gentlemanly and courteous.
We have had another illustration of Mexican prompt
ness. AVe were at our anchorage on time, but had to
wait seven hours before the steamer from shore reached
us with passengers and freight.
It would seem as if these Catholics prepare for the
solemnities of Lent by indulging in all sorts of dissipa
tion beforehand; the steamer left a theatrical troupe
at Vera Cruz, and now takes on another for Havana
— a hard-looking company they are too !
As I write general complaint is made of the heat;
and it does seem more like August than February.

PROGRESSO. 93
Pkogeesso, Mareli 1.
After as delightful a night as ever blessed home-sick
travellers, we reached Progresso, our last port in the
Republic of Mexico. AVe anchored three miles from
shore and awaited the boats. Now, as when we were at
this point on our way to Vera Cruz, the steamer is
boarded by Indians with birds of all kinds, tortoise-
shell work, hammocks, and other wares. Their mode
of dealing suggests that they are one of the lost tribes
of Israel, for they ask two or three times as much as
they expect to get for their goods; so that innocent
travellers like ourselves, unless posted, are likely to be
cheated. Progresso is a very healthy place we are told, and
the appearance of the people indicates the fact. All we
have seen are pure Indians.
Their chief article of commerce is hemp, a product of
the Magay plant, from which pulque is made, and we
take on. nine hundred bales.
Living must be cheap in Lent, for the steward has
just bought a quantity of large fish, something like
Delaware shad, at one cent each.
The mercury stands 90° in the shade. March 2.
Last night it was actually too warm to sleep com
fortably. This morning we honored the Sabbath, and
our advent to Havana, by shaving and donning white
linen. A little before noon we passed Moro Castle, and
anchored in the harbor of Havana. Near us was a
Spanish frigate, on board of which a band discoursed

94 HAVANA.
delicious music. As we entered the harbor, scores of
boats put out from the shore and literally surround us,
importuning the pleasure (and profit) of taking us ashore
at a dollar a head, — about forty-five cents of our money.
Here we willingly part with our Spanish theatrical
troupe. The weather is very sultry ; there is no air stirring
inside the harbor, and we conclude to be in no hurry
to get ashore. A masked parade and a bull-fight take
place to-day, but as we were not in time to attend
morning mass, we conclude we are not entitled to
witness the latter festivities.
Excessive heat has caused a thunder-storm, the first
we have encountered this year.
Wishing to witness for ourselves a Sunday in Havana,
we went ashore, and found about three-fourths of the
business places open, but not much business being done.
Many of the shop-keepers sat in front of their stores
playing checkers, cards, or chess, as their taste and
talent prompted.
This being Shrove Sunday — the Sunday before the
Mardi Gras — the streets are filled with people in all
sorts of fantastic costumes; one party of twelve were
dressed as priests, but had masks on. All had flutes,
guitars, or some other musical instruments, and from
the taste and skill with which they played we concluded
they were young men of the better class. One of them
begged with great importunity for contributions. AVe
met another party dressed as Indians ; others were fixed
up in the most ridiculous costumes. Stepping into a

HAVANA. 95
church we found just two worshipers, but passing a
circus and menagerie we found them in full operation
before good audiences. All places of amusement were
doing a thriving business. This was Havana in the
daytime; what it was at night we did not remain to see.
March 4.
The amount of shipping at this port is astonishing;
there are all kinds of vessels from nearly every country
in Europe, and from most of our own ports: the flags of
nearly every nation on the earth are here to be seen. The
Columbia of the American and Mexican line, from New
York, has just come in, bringing papers of the 27th tilt.
Hoping for letters we went to the Post Office. They
have here a singular way of publishing the mail matter
on hand. Lists of names, with a number to each, are
placarded outside the office : you do not ask for letters
for "John Smith," but for "number 19,727," therefore,
there appears to be no check upon any one calling for
another person's letter, as no effort at identification is
made. The same plan is also observed in Mexico.
The narrowness of the streets of the city proper has
before been remarked on, but visiting the "new" part
we found wide streets well paved, soaie fine buildings
already completed, and others in process of erection. March 5.
This being the third day in port, with not a pound of
freight on board, and no prospect of any being taken on
to day, one of my clerical friends begins to complain

96 HAVANA.
that his work is suffering. Although it does make us
anxious to see our homes, to be thus on the way, the
delay is really beneficial, and to none more so, than to
this D. D. himself, ungrateful being that he is!
In taking on coal, we have an exhibition of Coolie
labor, and observe that ten Chinamen do what would be
light work for four Irishmen or negroes. There are
many of these wretched people in and about Havana,
where they underbid the negroes as laborers. We have
just seen them at breakfast; their number has been in
creased to twenty, and they work with a degree of
energy -not to be seen when handling the ship's coal.
Each man has his bowl and chopsticks, the latter he uses
with a -skill and dexterity, which, if employed in the
use of the shovel, would double his worth. Their
principal article of diet is rice; then there is a general
dish of something, which in appearance is hard to de
scribe; one ingredient, however, is salt-fish. Their
chopsticks are made of ivory, are about a foot long,
and as thick as a lead-pencil, and it is curious to see
with what adroitness theyT use them to carry rice to
their mouths. If there is any lower type of humanity,
I have not seen it, nor do I wish to; the Indian by
contrast, is majestic. Coolies are paid $12 a month
in paper, which is about $5 in silver, and it costs
their employers less than twenty-five cents a day for
their board.
This is the last day of the Mardi Gras festivities; we
arc on the Grand Passo looking at the parade, and of
strange displays of folly, this surpasses all. Nearly every-

HAVANA. 97
body is masked, and one cannot conceive of any droll,
fantastic, or outlandish costume not to be found in the
procession. AVomen are, if possible, more ridiculously
dressed than the men, and for the brazen impudence of
some there is no name. The whole city seems to take
part; but how morally pure women can appear in it,
passes comprehension. Some females, without masks and
with bare arms and shoulders, of disgusting appearance
and behavior, were particularly noticeable. In one car
riage which passed, there were two women, each of whom
held up in one hand to public gaze, an. unmentionable
bed-room utensil, into which they poured wine from a
bottle in the olher,_ and then drank it, amidst the
plaudits of the spectators ! AVe have seen for ourselves
what had any one told us of, we would not have be
lieved. As far as our judgment can be relied on,
extremes meet in this parade of folly, the elite and the
lowest classes appearing unmasked.
The display of horses and carriages is not the least
curious part of the procession ; they are of every possi
ble description ; an old horse looking as if it had strayed
from Noah's stables, drawing a one-seated vehicle,
containing seven persons piled one on the other, will
be followed by a stylish four-in-hand exhibition of
Cuban snobbery : and we noted that most of the men
were thin, the stout ones being those in priestly garb.
The carnival makes it necessary for a strong military
force to be on hand to preserve the peace. From this
preparation for the solemn duties of Lent we turned
away with loathing, and in making our way to the pier

98 HAVANA.
met many carriages going to the Passo, — in one of
them a woman was clad simply and solely in tights.
This is called a Christian country. What a commentary
on Christianity ! In what Protestant country would
such displays be tolerated ? March 6.
We are taking on board large quantities of sugar and
tobacco, the chief products of the island, aud shall be
ready to leave this evening, but are loath to quit this
quiet resting in the bay, as it is doing us all good. The
plan adopted by the Rev. J. Wheaton Smith, who is
now with us, is admirable for persons suffering from over
work. He came out on this stearner, and after spending
a week in Mexico returns on her, making the round
trip in about a month, with twenty-four days spent on
the water, including four days' rest in the harbor of
Havana. This gives one a day each at Progresso and .
Campeche, and a visit to Orizaba, Puebla, and the city
of Mexico. The ride over the railroad from Vera Cruz
to Boca del Monte is worth all the cost of the trip,
while the views of Orizaba, Popocatepetl, and Ixta
cihuatl will live in memory forever.
On the trip, one can spend considerable money,
because there are so many curious things to be carried
home to show the peculiarities of the country.
Boatmen handle the boats which ply between the
shore and the anchored ships with great skill, which is
accounted for by the fact, that no man can get a license
to use a boat without having served as a sailor in the
Spanish navy. This is a good arrangement, as it is

HAVANA. 99
often rough, and very dangerous in the harbor during
a norther. There came on board from the city, a tall, slim, and
rather delicate-looking young man, in a suit of cotton
clothes, with a small, cheap hand-satchel. We learned
his history, and an interesting one it was : when the
revolution broke out nine years ago, the native heroes
believing New York to be quite as safe as Havana,
settled in the former city, where they enlisted recruits to
fight for their independence. Among the number thus
entrapped was this tall young stranger, then but six
teen years of age; he has been fighting during all these
nine years, and as a result has reached the rank of
Major, with back pay due him to the amount of $11 ,000,
— of which sum he can never get a farthing. He was
pardoned by the Government, and is being sent home at
the expense of Spain, in a suit of cotton clothes in
winter ! He can scarcely speak English, having lost
his knowledge of the mother-tongue during his long
absence among foreigners. While he has been here his
parents have died, and he has knowledge of but one
living relative, who is an uncle, residing in Brooklyn.
The youth is a quiet, mild fellow, and we could not
help being interested in him : during his nine years'
service in the revolution, the Spaniards lost 250,000
men, while the rebels lost 55,000 : the money and
misery it has cost, no man knoweth.
The moment we came to anchor the steamer was
boarded by two custom-house officers and a policeman,
to see that nothing; dutiable was taken on board without

100 HOMEWARD BOUND.
paying tribute to Spain, and to examine all passengers
and their papers; this they did with great care, and
nothing escaped their vigilance. As we were about to
start, the chief of police came on board, and the ship
being looked over, was pronounced "all. right," and
we were off. As we passed out of the bay a gun at
Moro Castle fired, to which salute we responded in a
like manner.
The ship being fully laden, is not so easily tossed
about by every wind or wave : the Gulf has a gentle
roll, and we look for a quiet night. Later. — It is be
coming rough, and the way the vessel is pitching about
is a warning to those unfortunates who get sea-sick.
Dinner-gong sounds, but we wait on deck to see an
other glorious sunset : we may not have an opportunity
to enjoy many more such sights, and they are worth
even more than dinner. March 7.
A heavy sea all night, but land in view this morn
ing ; a few more days will bring us to our desired
haven. Our longing for home is very great, and the
thought of again seeing our loved ones suggests the
greater happiness of a meeting after the voyage of life is
over. The result of the sea's rough tossing last night pre
vents my taking any interest in lunch, which is just
announced ; the first meal I have missed. We have
been running along the Florida coast all day, and the
air is much cooler.
Among the passengers is a gentleman in the sugar

HOMEWARD BOUND. 101
business, and he makes this trip several times a year. He
is an intelligent, pleasant companion, and we had a long
talk this morning, in which I learned that he was born
and educated in the Nutmeg State ; that he had wan
dered from the faith of his fathers, and is now spiritually
unhappy. Out on the sea of life, without a sun to guide
him by day, or moon or stars by night, he is without
chart or compass, rudder or anchor, and driven about
by every wind of unbelief. He admits that his wife is
a good Christian, but as for himself, he does not know
what to believe. I could not but advise him to go
back to the Bible of his mother, and accept the truth
as a " little child." How wonderful is Science ! I had
supposed that its office was to ascertain the laws by
which God made and rules the universe; but how little
we plain people know ! If we are to accept the dogmas
of those who claim the most knowledge, we must con
clude that the first duty of Science is to prove what
" the fool in his heirt," — without the aid of Science,
long since declared, — " there is no God." March 8.
Having mentioned the illness of my friends, the truth
of history requires me to say that though up to this point
in our journey I had resisted the exactions of Neptune,
this morning I concluded that discretion was the better
part of valor. Receiving only smiles instead of sym
pathy from those who claim to be friends, I discarded
their company, retired to my state-room, and did not
even yield to the solicitations of the gong to partake of
dinner.

102 HOMEWARD BOUND. March 9.
Being in no need of commiseration this morning, I
rejoined my fellow-travelers. We had hoped to reach
New York to-day, but the policy of the owners of the
ship favors her getting in early Monday morning. I
cannot refrain from ^ommendina; the officers and crew of
the City of Merida ; of Captain Reynolds I have before
spoken, and at the end of this voyage my opinion re
mains the same; he is a quiet, careful, skillful naviga
tor, and a perfect gentleman. The first and second
officers are good seamen, and as courteous as could be
desired. The old steward, Mr. Farrall, must not be
forgotten, nor the genial stewardess, Mrs. McCarty,
known as "Aunt Mary." They are all the very persons
for their positions, ever at hand when wanted, and
always kind and attentive in answering the many de
mands of the passengers, especially of those who are ill.
The young man Andrew deserves a more responsi
ble position, if fidelity to duty be a test of worth. The
purser, Mr. C. H. Jones, is an educated gentleman,
whom it is a pleasure to know. In a word, the ship is
commanded and manned by as fine a set of men as any
reasonable person could wish to sail with. Should I
take this trip again, I shall hope to go iu the City of
Merida, Capt. J. W. Reynolds commanding.
For calmness of sea and beauty of sky this is a day
to be remembered. The sun rose in the morning with
unusual glory; no artists' pencil could ever put on
canvas such tints as covered the eastern horizon as it
appeared. I could not help thinking of One who was

HOMEWARD BOUND. 103
called the Sun of Righteousness, who came to bring
glad tidings of great joy to this sin-cursed world.
This evening there are indications of a coming storm ;
we can see the black clouds marching with steady
tread, portending a rough night and a rocking to sleep
that some in the party are not partial to.
Sunday, March 10.
On this our last day at sea, everything is as pleasant
as could be desired ; the sky is clear, the sea calm, and
the weather such as we expect in midsummer at the
sea-shore. It is indeed a beautiful Sabbath, lacking
only the sound of church bells to complete an ideal day
of rest.
We have had a safe and pleasant voyage, and have
looked on some of the grandest scenes in nature, — on
mountains, valleys, ocean — scenes to feast the eye and
fill the heart with wonder, love, and praise. But what
are all these beauties compared with the thought of
" home, sweet home !" I was never before so sure that
there is no place like home ! P. M.
The evening is a fit ending to this most charming
day, quiet and calm as a Sabbath evening should be.
In the early morning we shall land at New York, and
I close my notes on the last page of my note- book.

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