YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY VIEW rKiJM 1 HE NORT H I'ivsciHimI livTIic ItiL'iil Iloiiumvitilf I.nrJ"Cr 3VC E R. O XT S ILLTJSTBATIONS. "RETINENS VESTIGIA FAMCE." — Virgil. vol n. BY WILLIAM FOEDYOE A. FULLAETON AND Co., 7, WESTGATE, NEWCASTLE, 106, NEWGATE STEEET, LONDON, AND LEITH WALK, EDINBTJEGBI. 1857. INDEX TO YOLUME H. Absolution — grant of, 357. Accidents in coal mines — South Shields Report, 723. Addenda — Bishop Longley, election and enthroning, <£c. 792 ; parlia mentary representation conti nued to 1857, 793. Affray in Sedgefield church-yard, 335. Ailsie Marley — '0 d'ye ken Ailsie Marley, honey?' 626. Airy, Professor, experiments at Harton pit, 732. Aislaby, 224. Aisle of tombs, C02. Alansford on the Darwent, 661. Alban (St.) chapelry district of — order in council, boundary, po pulation, the church, the par sonage, Windy Nook, chapel, schools, White House, 751; Up per Heworth, quarries, &c. 752. Allan, E. H. 44, 793. Allan press, 261. Allansford bridge, 709. Allison, Christopher, 195. Alwent. 134. Ancient fortificationc, 380 ; remains, 396, 562. Ancient vase discovered, 367 ; hu man skeletons, 370. Anderson, Major, 359. Anfield Plain, 665. Angus, William Henry, 717. Aristocratic swindlers, 117. Armstrong, Dr., 531. Assault on rector of Ryton, deposi tion, 668. Auld wives of Whitburn, 423. Axwell, do. Park, paintings, 676. Bailey, John, 79. Bainbridgc Holme, 528. Baker, Sir George, 660. Balguy, Rev. John, 639. Baliols, family of, 4. Banditti, former habitation of, 569. Barclay, David, 491. Barlow Fell, 077. Barmston, 742. Barnard Castle — description of, 13 ; survey and inventory, Bracken- bury's Tower, Baliol's Tower, 14 ; a Roman road, ths Platts, roman tic scenery, 15 ; siege of, 49, 50. Barnard Castle, parochial chapelry of — acreage, population, history, the Baliols, 4 ; original charters. 5 ; Baliol CoUege, Oxford, 6 ; Sweetheart Abbey and Lady De- vorguill, powers of the lords of Barnard Castle, 7; the see of Durham seized by the crown, 8 ; the Beauchamps, Nevilles, and Plantagenets, 9; Viscount Bar nard, Barnard Castle entitled to return members to parliament, Cromwell enters the town, 12; the Castle, 13; the town, descrip tion of, the bridge, Barnard Cas tle tragedy, 17; old rkjme, ex communication, the church, 18 : tablets and monuments, 19 ; be quests, terrier, 21 ; church rates and Easter dues disputed, 22 ; election of churchwardens and sexton, chapels, 23 ; Rogers, Barnes, 24; "Wesley, charities, St. John's hospital, 26; chancery suit, 27 ; description and value of St. John's hospital property, 28 ; enclosure acts, 29 ; waste lands, 30 ; Teesdale union, dietary table, 31 ; markets, fairs, courts, 32 ; manufactures, trade, . Middleton in Teesdale parish — acreage, county rates, population, &a. 62 ; Middleton house, market, town haU, bridge, water supply, the church, bell house, 63; cha pels, charities, 64; education, institutions, &c; 65 London Lead Company, produce from mines, bargains, 66 ; wages, education of workmen's chUdren, library, 67 ; inclosure of lands, Eggleston, acreage, rates, &c. smelt mill, chapel, 68 ; chapels, mechanics' institution,Eggleston haU, Stand ing Stones, inclosing commons, Newbiggin, 69 ; charities, Bow- lees houses, chapel, Winch bridge, 70 ; Forest and Frith, Harwood, chapel and school, 71 ; chapel of ease, school, poor's stock, chapel, High Force, 73 ; Cauldron Snout, 74 ; lead mines, 75 ; Bleak house, 76. Middleton, Capt. 314. Middleton-One-Row, 228. Mineral spring, analysis, 569. Monkton, 747. Monk-Hesleden parish — area, po pulation, rates, the church, 370 ; charities, Black Hall rocks, 371 ; estates for sale, 373 ; Hulam, Sheraton, 374; Hutton-Henry, 375. Monkwearmouth, 412, 422, 440, 480. Moor, Capt. 314. Moore, Mr. A. J. 484. Moore, Jeremiah, 205. Moor House, 577. Moors Burn, 578. Moorsley — Low, 577. Mordon, 344. Morton— East and West, 346. Morton Grange, 566. Morton-Tynemouth, 138. Muggleswick parish — extent, popu lation, rates, 705 ; the park, the three Hopes, 700 ; Darwentdale plot, the church 707 : providing church books, 708 ; lands trans ferred to perpetual curate, Row ley (Cold) and Roughside, cha pels, Muggleswick common, lead mines, royalties, AUansford bridge, fratricide, 709. Murton-in-the-Whins, or East Murton, 586. Muster roU, 456. Nesbit, 245 ; sale of, 246. Nesbit, Charles, wood engraver, 693. Nest House, 750. NevUle family, 93. Newbiggin, 69. Newbiggin — East and West, 236. Newbottle, 564. Newport, 201. Newsham, 124, 225. Newton Bewley, 314. Newton Garths, 739. New year's gift to Q. Elizabeth, 240. Nicholson, Rev. W. 80. North Biddick, 742. North and West Pastures, 739. Norton parish — area, value, popu lation, school, 204 ; chapels, Nor ton house, 205; the church, profane market, 208; charities, school, Blakiston,. 209. Nova Scotia, 626.. Nunnery, 254. Oak chest for keeping the bishop's money, 333. Oak Tree, 229. Offerton, hall, 569. Old George, 199. Oldest woman in the world, 213. Ordnance survey, 62. Ouston, 022. Owton, 298. Pagan masonry, 647. Paley, Archdeacon, 431. Pallion, 530. Parkhurst's Almshouse — indenture enroUed in court of chancery, 304 ; property, trustees, 305. ParUamentary representation, 793. Parish stocks, 001. Patie's Nook, a rendezvous, 328. Pattinson, H. L. 085. Paul Jones the pirate, 404. Pease, Joseph, 793. Peat, Lady, 563. Pelaw, 626. Pelaw Main, 750. Pelton Lonin 620. Pelton chapelry — boundary, popu lation, rates, the church, 620 ; schools, colliery, 621 ; Ouston, Urpeth, extent, population, rates, paper miU, moor divided, Poker- ley, Pit-hiU, 622; Edmondsley, extent, &c. Broomyholme, Trib- ley, Twizel, 623. Pemberton, famUy of, 528. Penance, 759. Penshaw hill, 507. Penshaw parish — boundary, area, population, rates, 566 ; Victoria bridge, Durham memorial, Pen shaw hill, chapel, schools, New Penshaw, 567 ; Low Lambton, the church, Shiney Row, chapel, schools, 568 ; Offerton, South Biddick, area, population, rates, haU, mineral spring, the Bid- dickers, 569; Bourn Moor, areas inhabitants, rates, New Lambton, chapel, school, Bowes house, salt works, 572. Pelton colliery — the queen v. H. B. Swabey, valuation of colUery, &c. 621. Pespool and Boisfield, 361. Philadelphia Row, 566. PhUUmore, Dr.— right to marry at parish church, &a. 436. Pickernell, Mr. 500. Pickled parson, 337. Picktree, 626; Brag, a mischievous goblin, ib. Piercebridge, 140. Pit-hill, 622. Pitmen, riotous conduct, 619- Plawsworth Cottage, 618. Plummer, Matthew, 790. Pocockr Sir George, 240.. Pontop, Pontopike, 663, Port Clarence, 312* Portrack, 198. Potato Tom, 204. Pounteys bridge, 229, Powder magazine, 745. Preston-upon-Tees, 198. Procession to meet the judges, 7891 Profane market at Norton, 208. Purvis famUy, 618. Purvis,. BUly, 268. Quarrington, seat of an encamp ment, 380. Raby Castle — early history, Colman the dramatist, 109; Buhner's tower, CUfford's tower, Leland's description, 110 ; the baron's haU, drawing rooms, kitchen, paintings and famUy portraits, chapel, con servatory, park, 111. Raby and Keverstone, 93. RaUways — Darlington and Barnard Castle, 35 ; Stockton andDarUug- ton, 185 ; West Hartlepool Har bour, North-eastern, 186; Hart lepool Dock and Railway Co. Stockton and Hartlepool, 274; Durham and Sunderland, Pen shaw, 522 ; Londonderry, Sun derland and Seaham, 594. ( See Rates.) Rainton, West, 572 ; East and Mid dle, 574. Rainton Pit houses, 574. Rainton parish — West, area, popu lation, rates, 572 ; Sir John Duck's mansion, remains of an- eient chapel, schools, chapel, the church, 573 ; Rainton Pit houses, Rainton Pits, East and Middle Rainton, area, &c. chapel, school, Cocken, area, value, population, colliery, 574 ; Moor house, Moors ley, area, population, rates, Low Moorsley, colUery, &c. 577. Rates contributed by raUways, 149 185 204 220 226 232 233 237 245 240 290 306 312 327 330 360 362 370 378 380 381 386 388 522 548 564 566 569 572 573 574 577 578 580 581 584 585 587 598 620 623 625 633 047 059 663 665 671 672 680 687 695 702 705 722 733 740 742 744 748 752. Rating raUways, 599. Ravensworth, Lord,. 644.. INDEX TO VOLUME II. Ravensworth Castle — description, principal entrance, 641 ; saloon, . dining room, tibrary, paintings, conservatory, the museum, gar dens, park, &c. 642. Redcar, 203. Redheugh, 788. RedmarshaU parish — extent, &o. township, expenditure, 229 ; the church, 230 ; charities, Carleton, StiUington, 232. Redway hUl, 703. Reed, Joseph, dramatist, 176. Reid, James, 621. Riddle, E. mathematician, 733. Rippon, Cuthbert, 781. Ritson, Joseph, 173. Robinson famUy, Silksworth, 534. Robinson Stoney Bowes, 54. Rogers, Rev. John and Mrs. Tooley, 25. Romaine, Rev. W. 263. Roman station — Roman altar, coins, and other reUcs, 652. Roman ramparts, 704. Rotherham, Rev. J. 554. Rowley (Cold) and Roughside, 709. Rudd, Rev. Thos. 218. Russia Company, 192. Ryhope, 535. Ryton parish — extent, population, rates, 665 ; fishery, division of common, Bar Moor, Woodside Green, Moor House, Emma VUla, the church, 667 ; charities, Ryton Woodside, Greenside, 670; cha pel, school, mechanics' institute, Stawgate coal pit explosion, Craw- crook, extent, &a. schools, divi sion of Crawcrook town fields, Bradley haU, 671. Ryton Woodside, 670. SaUor's Home, 457. Sales of estates, where the amount of purchase is named, 61, 116, 121, 134, 135, 153, 213, 221, 240, 246, 317, 330, 343, 358, 362, 365, 373, 374, 381, 382, 387 (see also vol. i.). Salt Meadows, 786. Salt works, 572 : spring, 624. Salter's Way, 352. SaltweUside, 787. Satley chapelry — area, population, rates, the chureh, 661 ; Broom- shields, WestStreet,Hedley Hope, Meynell v. Surtees — an action respecting wayleave, 662. Scots house, 739. Scurfield famUy, 533. Seaham haU, 581. Seaham Harbour chapelry district — extent, population, rates, 588; the pier, inner and outer harbour, 589 ; royalties, lighthouse, 590 : shipments of coal, the town, the church, 591 ; chapels, educa tional institutions, 592 ; joint stock gas company, 593 ; infir mary, raUway, 594. Seaham parish — extent, population, rates, the haU, 581 ; marriage of Lord Byron and Miss Milbanke, the church, 582 ; charities, 583 ; colUery, new church, Seaton and SUngley, 584. Seaton Carew parochial chapelry — extent, population, county and local rates, fashionable bathing place, 296 ; the ohurch, chapels, schools, 297 ; Owton, the family of Dixon, 298. Seaton and Slingley, 584. Sedgefield parish — extent, popula tion, rates, history, 330 ; deposi tions taken after the suppression of the northern rebelUon, 331 ; division of waste lands, the town, the churoh, 332 ; depositions, 334; church rates, 335; chapels; poor law union, 337 ; charities, 338 ; institute of literature and science, schools, county lunatic asylum, 340; gas and water company, Hardwick, 341 ; East and West Layton, 342; Bradbury and the Isle, 343 ; Morton, Fox- ton and Shotton, 344 ; Butterwick, 345; Embleton, Fishburn, 346; charities, area, 347. Selaby, 133. Seymour, Mr. Digby, 492. Shakspeare portrait, 612. Sharp, Sir C. 264. Shepnerdson famUy, 410. Sheriff HUl, 789. ' Sheraton, 374. Sherwood, Dr. 134. Shield or Sheel Row, 637. Shield, W. the eminent EngUsh composer, 687. Shiney Row, 568. Shotley Bridge, 700. Shotton, 362. Siddons, Mrs. 476. Signing HUl, sign of the cross, 383. SUksworth, 534. Simondside, 732. Sleigh, Ueut.-col. 162. Smith, Dog, 261. Smith famUy, 536. Smith, Rev. Thos. D.D. 660. Snows Green, 701. Snow haU, 134. Snotterton, 92. Souter Pount, 733. South Shields — extent of townships, population, rates, early history, 713 ; the market place, parish and church of St. HUda, Westoe chapel of ease, 715; chapelry district of the Holy Trinity, boundary, the church, chapelry district of St. Stephen, boundary, the church ; chapels, 716 ; chari ties, master mariners' asylum, 718 ; poor law union, 719 ; bene volent, reUgious and educational institutions, 720 ; glass works, 721; ship buUding, markets, fairs, raUways, St. Hilda coUiery, 722 ; accidents in coal mines — report, town improvement act, gas company, 723 ; water com pany, baths and wash houses, theatre, races, corporation, boun daries of borough, 724 ; poUce, borough accounts, court leet, depth of water on the bar, 725 ; custom house, dues, conservancy of the river, moorings, river police, &c. 726; steam ferries, pUots, sculler boats, temporary bridge, 727; life boats, 728; shipping, marine board, trade, Jarrow slake and docks, 730 ; Westoe, the common fields divi ded, 781 ; Harton, Professor Airy, Simonside, division of common fields, 732. Southwick, 539. Spearman famUy, 384. Sporting estabUshment, 215. Staindrop Moor, 92. Staindrop parish — area, county rate, population, antiquity, 83 ; Staindrop haU, market,mechanics' institution, farmers' club, gas company, Miss Colpits, 84 ; Langley beck, the church, 85 ; monuments, 86 ; the college, 89 ; tithes, 90 ; chapels, church rates, charities, 91; Snotterton, Stain drop moor inclosed, 92 ; Raby and Keverstone, the Nevilles, 93; the peacock of the north, 94 ; first Earl of Westmorland, his immense possessions in the county, 96 ; Cicely of Raby, 98 ; assault on the heir of Rokeby, inventory of goods, &e. of the widow of Sir Henry Gascoigne, 99 ; proclamation during the rebellion, 101; the wUy Constable, letter from Queen of Scots, de grading suspicions, 102; Margaret Neville convicted at Durham assizes, her letter to Queen EUzabeth, 103 ; the Vanes, 104 ; first Baron Barnard, 106 ; Earl of Darlington, hunting anecdote, 107 ; Duke and Marquis of Cleve land, correspondence with Col. Garrett, 108-; Raby castle, survey, Colman the dramatist, 109 ; de scription, 110 : baron's haU, chapel, park, &a. Ill ; the Duke of Cleveland's tenants, 112; Keverstone hall, Langley dale and Shotton, extent, rates, chapel, &c. 113. Stainton-le-Street parish — Great Stainton, extent, population, rates, the church, 328 ; charities, school, Elstob, 329. Stainton, 60. Stainton, Little, 236. Standish famUy, 576. Standish gaUery, presentation to King Louis PhUippe, sale of gallery and tibrary by auction after the revolution of 1848, 576. Stanfield, J. F. comedian, 462. Stanger v. Nelson, Mr. Freeman's will, 359 (see errata). Stanley haU, 638. Startforth, 38. Stella chapelry districts — order in council, boundary, population, 679 ; Stella hall, chapel, schools, Hedgefield house, 680; the Tem pests, Widdringtons, Earl of Derwentwater,&c.681; Blaydon, 084 ; trade, gas works, the church, 085 ; chapels, schools, mechanics' instituto, Scotswood bridge joint stock compy., raUway bridge, 680 SteUa haU, 080. Stephens, Wm. 127. Stephenson, Rev. Geo. 231. StiUington, 232. Stoney Bowes, 54. Stockton, Henry, 100. Stockton, South, 200. Stockton Ward— extent, 147 ; divi sions, Ust of parishes and chapel- ries, 148 ; area, population, num. ber of houses, &c. 347. Stockton parish — area, value of property, population, history, 149 ; ancient customs to be ob served in trade, survey, 151 ; bishop Booth's ship, costs, &c. 152; the castle, survey of the manor and townships, 153 ; se questration of the property of loyalists, German trade, &o. 154 ; description of town, coins, the Burdon family, 155 ; St. John's well, borough rights, 157 ; exten sion and improvement act, boun daries, 158; church of St. Thomas 159 ; chapelry of Holy Trinity, 163; mortgaging the parsonage house, 164 ; chapels, ib. ; poor law union, income and expendi ture, 166; charities, blue coat school, Old CockeriU, 167; Christmas tree, 168; benevolent institutions, 170 ; grammar, Trinity and other schools, 171 ; mechanics' institution and tibra- ries, 172 ; town hall, 174 ; borough hall, the shambles, 175 ; custom house, bridge, theatre, 176 ; corporation, mayors, coun cillors, &c. 177 ; baUiff, revenue, plankage dues, the bishop's din ner, police, county court, 178 ; markets, fairs, manufactories, 179 ; Stockton and Cleveland bank, Tees bank, 180 ; an expert thief, 181; Stockton and Durham county hank, savings bank, amusements, 182 ; waste lands, races, benefit societies, supply of water, 183 ; gas company, 184 ; Stockton and Darlington raUway, 185 ; suspension bridge, West Hartlepool harbour, raUway ,river, 186 ; Tees navigation company, the new cut, discoveries whUst making the excavation, 187 ; Newport, Cargo Fleet, tidal har bours commission, 188 ; debt due from the port, dock act, 189 ;. fisheries, 191; customs port, the Russia company, south-west division of Darlington "Ward consists, as has been seen, of the parishes of Middleton- in-Teesdale, "Winston, Gainford, Staindrop, and Cock field, the parochial chapelries of Barnard Castle and Whorlton, and part of the chapelry district of Ingleton. The parish of Cockfield participates in the coal trade of the Auckland district ; and that of Middleton-in-Tees- dale has been long celebrated, like the dale of the Wear, for the productiveness of its lead-mines. The aspect of the country, in this part of the division, is bleak and hilly, consisting, for the most part, of lofty fells, similar to those by which Weardale is hemmed in. The river Tees, however, presents a striking contrast to the placid course of its neighbour stream, hurling itself over precipices and through chasms which might fitly acquire for it the character of an alpine torrent. Even as it approaches the more sylvan and cultivated parts of the division, it continues, in times of flood, which VOL. II. are frequent and sudden, to rush over its rocky channel with considerable turbulence and force. The scenery of the country, however, after leaving the imposing but sterile heights of Middleton Fells, becomes rapidly more beautiful ; and no part of the county is more fer tile and highly cultivated than the remainder of this division. Barnard Castle (with its ruined fortress), Middleton-in-Teesdale, and Staindrop are the market towns ; the eastern portion of the division enjoying the advantage of proximity to the markets of Darlington and Bishop Auckland. The introduction of railway traffic may be expected shortly to facilitate more exten sive intercourse, and provide an easier outlet for the products of the south-west division. Several elegant and pleasant mansions adorn the face of the country ; whilst the princely castle of Baby, and that of Streat lam, are associated with historical recollections, not only of the county, but of the kingdom itself. 13 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. PAEOCHIAL CHAPELEY OF BAENAED CASTLE. THE chapelry of Barnard Castle is bounded on the south and south-west by the river Tees, which separates it from the parishes of Rokeby, Startforth, and Romaldkirk, in the North Riding of Yorkshire ; on the west and north-west by the parish of Middleton-in-Teesdale ; on the north by the parish of Staindrop ; and on the east by the chapelry of Whorlton. The townships into which it is divided are, 1, Barnard Castle ; 2, Marwood, includ ing Woolhouse, High and Low Shipley, Hullerbush, and other ancient estates ; 3, Streatlam and Stainton ; and, 4, Westwick, with East and West Shaws. BARNARD CASTLE. This township occupies an area of 4,007 acres. In 1831, it contained 513 inhabited houses, and 20 uninhabited; in 1841, 679 inhabited, 61 uninhabited, and 2 building ; and in 1851, 688 inhabited, 8 uninhabited, and 11 build ing. The value of the property assessed to the county- rate in 1853 was £11,942. The population of the town ship was, in 1801, 2,966; in 1811, 2,986; in 1821,3,581; in 1831, in consequence of the increase of manufacto ries, 4,430; in 1841, 4,452; and in 1851, 4,608. Of the latter number, 2,216 were males and 2,392 females. The return includes 101 persons in 1841, and 60 in 1851, in the union workhouse. HISTORY. The tract of country extending along the north bank of the Tees, between Middleton-in-Teesdale on the west, to Coniscliffe on the east, was, with the exception of the little parish of Winston, anciently known as the parish of Gainford. Amongst the places which the Earls of Northumberland obtained from Bishop Ald- hune, between 998 and 1018, Whorlton, Sledwish, Stainton, Streatlam, and Marwood, portions of Gain ford, are enumerated. This part of the country suffered severely from the devastations of the Conqueror (see vol. i., page 196) ; and, after his departure, Mal colm king of Scotland, led his army down Teesdale towards Cleveland, in his progress burning churches, murdering the nobles, and seizing the women and young men as captives for slavery. The Baliols. — Whilst suffering from the above accumulated disasters, the forests of Teesdale and Mar wood, the lordships of Middleton-in-Teesdale and Gainford, with all their royalties, franchises, and im munities, were given by William Rufus, about the year 1093, with the barony of By well in Northumberland, to Guy Baliol, who had come into England with the Conqueror. The principal circumstances known rela tive to Baliol, after taking possession of his new domain, are, his grant of the churches of Gainford, Stokesley, and Stainton-in-the-Street, to the abbey of St. Mary's, York ; and the prohibition from King Henry L, after the year 1109, that he should not hunt in the forests of Bishop Flambard. He left issue Barnard, Joceline, and Hawise; the latter married to William Bartram, Baron of Mitford, and founder of Newminster Abbey. Barnard Baliol, son and successor of Guy, was a man of bold, active, and enterprising spirit. Dissatisfied with the lowly position of the ancient manor place of Gainford, he commenced the erection of that fortress which bore his name, and the extensive ruins of which still remain in attestation of his power. This mighty structure was built between the years 1112 and 1132; and the security afforded by its vicinity having attracted the surrounding population, the town of Barnard Castle rose into existence. A burgage tenure was granted to its inhabitants by the founder of the castle ; their privi leges and immunities to be similar to those which Alan of Britany had granted to the burgesses of Richmond ; and the burgesses, in return, paid a certain rent to their lord. Baliol frequently visited the court of David I., king of Scotland ; and from him he obtained lands which were the means of introducing his posterity into that kingdom. In 1138, however, he was one of the northern barons who met in council at Thirsk, and was sent with Robert Brus to dissuade David, who lay with his army near the Tees, from advancing into England. The Scottish king persisted; and Baliol shared in the victory over him on Cowton Moor, called " The Battle of the Standard." Though at first favourable to the claims made on the see by Comyn, Baliol's possessions CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. at Barnard Castle were, in 1140, ravaged by the army of the usurper : they succeeded in obtaining a large booty, and took several prisoners, who were, like others, put to torture. In 1142, Baliol was made prisoner with King Stephen at the battle of Lincoln. Barnard Baliol, son of the above, succeeded his father before 1167, and in that year was fined for neg lecting to certify the number of his knights' fees. Two years afterwards, he paid £100 to have restitution of hss lands, which had been seized by the crown. He granted a confirmation of privileges to the burgesses of Castle Barnard and their heirs, in chief, in fee, and inheritance. This document, which is still preserved in a small oaken box, within the town-chest, in the Town Hall, is written on vellum, in a bold, legible hand, with a seal of yellow wax appendant, bearing the remains of an equestrian figure, with a shield and ex tended sword ; but the circumscription is broken off.* In 1174, the Scots, under William the Lion, having laid siege to Alnwick Castle, Barnard Baliol, Robert Stuteville, and other barons, marched to its relief. Before daybreak, a thick fog obscured their passage, and a halt was recommended; but Baliol exclaimed, "Let them stay that will; I am resolved to go on, though none follow me, rather than dishonour myself by staying here." Stimulated by his example, they pursued their march ; the sun suddenly broke forth • and they perceived the Scottish king in the open field, surrounded by only 60 followers. After a short, but gallant resistance, the monarch was made a prisoner, and sent to Richmond Castle. Barnard Baliol married Agnes de Pichenii or Pinck- ney, and left issue three sons, Eustace, Guy, and Ingelram. He was a benefactor to several ecclesiastical foundations, and confirmed the grant of the churches of Gainford, Barnard Castle, and Middleton, to St. Mary's Abbey, York. To the monks of Rievaulx he gave lands in Teesdale, with pasturage for 60 mares and three colts of two years old, and for six score young cattle, 12 kine, and two bulls. Eustace Baliol, who succeeded before 1193, had paid 100 marks for license to marry the widow of Robert Fitz-Piers in 1190; and in 1199, he paid 200 marks fine for neglecting the king's precept to go to the wars of France. He granted several charters, and confirmed * In the same box are deposited charters of Hugh, John, and Alex ander Baliol, three documents referring to a chantry in the chapel, a letter from Prince Charles's councU in 1618, and the silver seal of the burgesses. those conceded by his predecessors. He left issue Hugh, Barnard, and Ingelram. Hugh Baliol succeeded his father about the year 1212. He granted to the inhabitants of Barnard Castle " all that common pasture, and all common lands in the east and north parts, from a certain rivulet which flows from Watercale, or Watershaw, and runs into Beckdam; and from the road which leads from Castle Barnard, and goes towards Stanhope," (Stonehope, or Slonehill, now called Stainton,) with moor, marsh, turf, and peat ; excepting that they and their heirs " should not take from the wood of Wythners, Hankeslave, or Berlainicker, without the consent of him and his heirs." Under another charter granted by him, the burghers and their resident tenants held common of pasture in Marwood for all their cattle, free of agistment or pannage. They might make a drift on Hermyre at their pleasure ; each burgher might build his own oven without any pay ment, and might take ground for building, and gather dung (or scrapings) before his door to the middle way. If the lord should build a common oven, the burgesses were not compelled to use it. They were to grind their corn at the lord's mill, paying a sixteenth for multure ; and the baker at the common oven was to charge a halfpenny for baking their meal, and to find fuel. Many of these concessions, trivial in modern times, were of vast importance in the feudal ages. Hugh Baliol adhered firmly to King John in all his wars with his barons and the Scots, and was rewarded both with wealth and power. It is no wonder, therefore, that he and his brother Barnard were denounced by those barons amongst other "fautors and evil coun sellors." Alexander, king of Scotland, having invaded England as an ally of Louis of France, burned Holme Cultram Abbey and took Carlisle ; " and as he passed by Castle Barnard, with his companie (which castle then stood in the precinct of Halywerkfolk in the cus- todie of Hugh Baliol) he surveid it about, to espie whether it were assailable of any side ; and while he was thus occupied, one within discharged a cross bowe, and strake Eustace Vesey (which had marryed his syster) on the forhead with such might, that he fell dead to the ground, whereof the kinge and all his nobles conceaved great sorrow, but wear not able to amend it;" and the Scots drew off their forces. Of Hugh Baliol, Dugdale says, " Certain it is that he benefitted himself not a little in those troublesome times of King John's reign (being then for the king) ; for when all was quiet at the entrance of King Henry the Third, he could not forbear his wonted course of DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. plundering." He died in or before the year 1228, leaving issue three sons, John, Eustace, and Hugh, and a daughter, Ada, by marriage Baroness of Wark- worth. John Baliol, on his succession, paid £150 relief for his possessions. In exchange for lands which he had inclosed in his park, and others which the burgagers had released to him and his heirs, he granted to the freeholders (now first mentioned) and burgagers a cer tain common pasture in Marwood, the boundaries of which were, " from Roger Cross westward by the park wall to the saltury, or deer leap,* under Stanley on the west, and from thence to Egleston Way, adjoining to Beaconsgate on the north, and so by Egleston Way to the west foot of East Moss Mire bridge, and so in Blackdean towards the north." This tract adjoins that granted by Hugh Baliol ; and the two contained 9,700 acres of land. The hospital of St. John the Baptist (see Charities) is reputed to have been founded by John Baliol in 1230. This powerful baron was as faithful in his adherence to Henry III. as his father had been to John. He married Devorguill, or Devorgald, eldest daughter and heiress of Allan, Lord of Galloway,f by Margaret, daughter and co-heiress of David, Earl of Huntingdon, younger brother of William the Lion, king of Scotland; and by this union he acquired a great accession of wealth and influence. He was sheriff of Cumberland 33 and 34 Henry III., and governor of Carlisle Castle ; sheriff of Derby and Notts., 45, 46, and 48 of the same reign ; and summoned to a council or parliament in the 45th. On the marriage of Margaret, the king's daugh- * A place so arranged that the deer, when driven from the forest, might leap into the enclosure, from which they could not escape. f Isabel, second daughter of Alan, was the wife of Robert Bruce. % " There is in the Chronicle of Lanercost," says Mr. Raine, "a record of a proceeding, in which this prelate (Kirkham) was concerned, which, if I am not mistaken, led to a very important result, the foundation of a college in Oxford, which has been the seat of learning for nearly six centuries. After recording the death of the bishop, the chronicler proceeds to describe the deceased prelate as a man of such authority that, whilst the powerful held him in honour and fear, he restrained the rebelUous with a tight rein. It happened, however, continues he, that a baron of his diocese, one of the highest in name of the whole of England, forgot the honour of his rank and insulted the church. Ad monition was treated with contempt, till at last the offender was, by rigorous measures, brought hack to a sense of his duty, and was com pelled, all the people looking on, to receive at the door of the cathedral a personal castigation from the hands of the bishop himself, and was bound to settle a sum of money to maintain for ever certain scholars in the university of Oxford. "Now a question arises, who was this unnamed and. penitent baron, upon whom the bishop inflicted such signal chastisement? "Was it ter, to Alexander, the young king of Scotland, their tuition was committed to John Baliol and Robert Ros of Wark ; but, within two years, they were both accused to King Henry, at Nottingham, of having abused their authority. Richard, Earl of Gloucester, and John Mansell, one of the king's counsellors, were despatched to Edinburgh, with a choice body of men ; and learning that the young king and queen were shut up in the castle, they procured entrance, with a few followers, by pretending to be the inferior servants of Ros. The queen " presently came to them, and made a grievous complaint of her hard usage ; expressing that she was kept there like a prisoner, in a solitary place, near the sea, and destitute of any wholesome air ; being neither permitted to go abroad, nor to have attendance of waiting-maids fit for her ; no, nor to enjoy her hus band's bed. All which the earl and Mansell remedied." Baliol made his peace with King Henry partly by the payment of a large fine, and partly by reminding him of the services of his father to King John. A fine of 100 marks was levied upon Ros. Baliol was shortly afterwards sent as an ambassador to France ; and he was present at the victory of Northampton in 1264, and shared the defeat and imprisonment of King Henry and Prince Edward at the battle of Lewes. Hav ing regained his liberty, he devoted -himself, with all his characteristic energy, to the service of his royal master. The memory of John Baliol is rendered famous by the foundation of Baliol College, Oxford. For some time previous to his death, he gave annual exhibitions to certain poor scholars at that university,* and had not John de Baliol, lord of Barnard Castle, who, as we know from another record, had, in the year 1255, personally assaulted the bishop, and had carried of to prison four of his attendants ? The cause of this outrage was as follows: — Some of Baliol's men having sacrilegiously broken into the church of Long-Newton, the bishop had excommu nicated and imprisoned them for the offence, and Baliol's object was to seize and keep the bishop's men in durance tiU his own should be absolved and set at liberty. The bishop appealed to the crown ; and, after a hearing, it was determined that he had acted according to law, with this exception, that the excommunicated men ought to have been held to baU. " The question then stands thus. We have a nameless baron of the bishopric of the highest rank entering into a solemn engagement, as a condition of his absolution for an offence against the bishop, to make provision for ever for certain scholars in Oxford. We have John Ba liol, a baron of the diocese, and, be it remembered, in rank without compeer, committing an outrage against the bishop in 1255. After that we have law-proceedings, which, then as now, might not be termi nated in a day; and next, in 1263, or thereabouts, for the precise year is not known, we have this same John Baliol founding certain scho larships in Oxford, and soon afterwards DivorguiUa his widow esta- bUshed the college which bears his name. Is it not more than probable CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. intended the settlement of lands for their permanent endowment; but as he did not live to complete his beneficent design, it was carried out, with commendable liberality, by his widow. He died in 1268, and was buried in the abbey of Sweetheart in Galloway* He left issue four sons, Hugh, Alan, Alexander, and John; and four daughters, viz., Margaret, wife of Thomas Lord Multon, of Gilsland ; Ada, wife of William de Lindsay ; Cicely, wife of John de Burgh ; and Mary, wife of John Comyn of Badenoch, a competitor for the crown of Scotland in 1292, though he inclined to Baliol, and would do nothing to prejudice his cause. Hugh Baliol succeeded to the barony of Gainford and Barnard Castle. Little is known of him except that he never paid his father's executors £10 he owed them for two horses. He married Agnes de Valence, daughter of the Earl of Pembroke, and died without issue in 1271. Alan, second son of John Baliol, having died before Hugh, the latter was succeeded by Alexander, third son of John, who gave the inhabitants of Barnard Castle a charter confirmatory of their right of common in Mar wood. He left no issue by his wife, Alianor de Genouve, or Geneve, and was succeeded in the immense inheritance of the family by his only surviving brother, John Baliol, then 28 years of age, and who, it appears, that BaUol College owes its origin to an act of sacrUege in the church of Long-Newton ? and ought not the name of Walter Kirkham, Bishop of Durham, to be had in grateful remembrance by its men ?" * The origin of this title is attributed to the conjugal piety of the Lady DevorguiU. Wintoun's Chronicle relates that, on the death of BaUol, his affectionate widow caused his heart to be embalmed, and enclosed " In a coffin of ebore, That she gart be mayed therefore, Enamelyt and perfectly dight ; Lockit and bounden with sUver bright. She founded intil Galoway, Of Cisterians order, an Abbay, Dolce Cor she gart them all, That is Sweet Hart that Abbay caU ; But now the men of Galloway CaU that Abbay New Abbay." With affectionate remembrance, " quhil livand in this world," she caused the cabinet containing the heart of her husband to be set before her at meat, to which, as in his presence, "she did reverens;" and after "aU the coursys'' of the meal had been as decorously served as during his life, she rose from the table, and the dinner was distributed to the poor. That she might not be separated from that beloved heart even after death, she ordered in her will " That hart thai suld then ta, And lay it betwene hir pappys twa ; As digght they war than with honoure, To lay her with that in sepoultoure." had received his education at Durham school. The powers of the lords of Barnard Castle continued to be considerable. An itinerant judge was sent to dispense justice in their territory; there was also a chief bailiff of the liberty, a constable and a porter of the castle, and a forester. A coroner was appointed by the lords of the liberty, who also had " divers knights' fees, wardships, marriages, and reliefs there ; and had the goods of the nief or native, which they frequently took into their own hands." They had free-warren and chase over a large extent of moor and waste ; with the soil, mines, quarries, and other perquisites, from whence the muni ficent grants above noticed were derived. They had the return of writs and warrants awarded thither, so that no officer could enter the liberty, but by writ de non omittas. The appointment of markets and fairs was vested in them ; the goods and chattels of felons condemned within their courts were their perquisites ; and they received a yearly rent, called the Brew-farm, from all the alehouse keepers, who were obliged to be licensed by the steward in open court.f In England, besides his lordship of Barnard Castle, John Baliol possessed estates in several of the southern counties, as well as the barony of Bywell in Northum berland ; in Scotland, he inherited from his mother the lordship of Galloway, the castle of Botel in Kenmore, t The territory was held, at this time, at five knights' fees and » quarter. Agnes de Valencia, widow of Hugh BaUol, had her dower in Gainford, where she held the court and other baronial privileges, as well as in Piercebridge andHeadlam, altogether worth £100, with the reservation to the lord of the rents of the free tenants of Headlam ; she also held half of the mills of Gainford and Piercebridge, and a third part of the forest of Teesdale. Alianor, widow of Alan BaUol, had a third part of each of the following possessions, viz,, the mUls of the borough and the demesne lands of Castle Barnard ; of two parts of the park and wood there, and of the forest of Teesdale ; of the viU of Westwick; of two parts of Whorlton, with the mansion ; and of the mills of Gainford and Piercebridge, aU worth £40 13s. 4^d. per annum. William de Falderly held for his life two carucates of the demesne in Langton, of the annual value of £9, of the gift of Lady DevorguiU ; and an annuity of £10 was granted by her son John out of Long-Newton to Alan de Tesedale. The interest that remained to John Baliol himself has been thus described : — Two parts of the borough rents, and a like proportion of the profits of the markets, fairs, and mills, £34 13s. 4d. ; castle-guard rents, £3 12s., besides the service of four pounds of pepper, seven of cumin, and two capons. He also had 120 acres of the castle demesne, valued at is. an acre ; and two parts of the extensive park and woods, at £20 per annum. The agistment of Teesdale forest produced 60s. He held sole possession of the manor of Middleton, and derived from it, with its hamlets, £16 13s. 7jd. Two parts of Westwick produced, in rents from bondholders and cottagers, £14 Os. 6d. ; two parts of Whorlton, with the mills, £16 ; the rents and services of half the viU of Langton, £10 ; and the rents of the free tenants of Headlam, with the license to brew £3 12s. The patronage of the hospital of St. John at Barnard Castle, and of the chapel at Newsham, belonged to him. 8 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. and Kirk Andrews; and in France he retained the hereditary possessions of his Norman ancestors. He married Isabel, daughter of John Plantagenet, Earl of Warren and Surrey, by whom he had issue two sons, Edward and Henry. On the failure of the direct issue of William the Lion, king of Scotland, in the person of Margaret, "the maid of Norway," who died at the Orkney Isles, on her passage to her realm of Scotland, in September, 1291, Baliol became one of the chief competitors for the vacant throne. The dispute was submitted to the king of England, as lord paramount, by the seven Scottish earls claiming the right of consti tuting their king, and by Baliol and Bruce themselves ; and Edward very properly, and agreeably to the recog nized laws of primogeniture, decided in favour of the claims of John Baliol, who swore fealty to the English monarch at Norham on the 29th November, 1292, was crowned at Scone on the following day, and did ho mage for his crown at Newcastle on the 26th December following. The important events which followed are rather mat ter for general than for local history (see vol. i., page 47). It is sufficient to state here that the galling humiliations imposed upon the new king by Edward I. had at length the effect, probably intended, of exciting indignant feelings. The alliance of the Scottish king with Philip of France, then at war with England, and the open renunciation of fealty to the latter kingdom by Baliol, served as a welcome pretext to Edward, who invaded and overran Scotland ; and so complete was his success, that, according to Fordun, "John Comyn, Lord of Strabolgy, who had just made his own peace with Edward, persuaded Baliol and his son to accom pany him from Aberdeen to Montrose Castle, where he awaited the approach of King Edward, on whose arrival, the same King John, stripped of his royal or naments, and bearing in his hand a white wand, did, for very fear of his life, confess his several offences against his liege lord — by forming alliance with France, by contracting his son to the French king's neice, by renouncing his allegiance, by invading England, and resisting his lord Edward ; and did then, by delivery of his wand and staff, make full resignation of all his right to the crown and realm of Scotland into the hands of the king of England." Thus ended the " troublesome * It is unnecessary, in this place, to follow the career of the brave but unfortunate Edward Baliol, son of John, and sometime king of Scotland, whose fortunes rose and fell as rapidly as did those of his sire. He is said to have died in 1363 at Doncaster ; and in him the chief line of Baliol terminated. His brother Henry was slain at Annan in 1332, whUst fighting on his behalf; and though some of the junior reign of King John (having endured three years and seven months), whose very name was accounted so un fortunate, that no king of Scotland was ever after allowed to bear it." After a brief imprisonment in the Tower of London, he was allowed to retire to his estate in Galloway ; and subsequently he went to reside in his Castle Galliard, in Normandy, where, worn out with age, afflicted with blindness, and despairing of that crown which was the hereditary right of himself and his posterity, this " dim discrowned king" died in 1314.* The See of Durham. — The forfeiture of John Baliol's English estates was adjudged to have occurred on the 25th of December, 1293, " on which day he re ceded from his homage." At that era, the barony of Gainford, not having been attached to the see of Dur ham, was generally considered to belong to Northum berland;! and it was consequently the duty of the sheriff of that county to enter the forfeited territory. As he neglected to do so, however, Bishop Beck, after having, as an experiment, entered on Long Newton and Newsom, seized the whole barony, on the feast of St. Martin, 1294, in virtue of his presumed prerogative of jura regalia. The palatinate was seized by the crown on the 17th July, 1301 ; but the bishop obtained restitution of the temporalities in the following year. In 1305, they were again seized by the king, who, at this time, had determined to abridge the overgrown power of the prelate, and particularly to detach from the see the large possessions which it had acquired on the attain ders of Baliol and Bruce. Robert de Clifford, who had already obtained Hart and Hartness from the king, was appointed custos of the bishopric; and a royal writ, addressed to him, directed that a jury, summoned from the bishopric, should make a return to certain questions annexed, relative to Baliol's forfeited posses sions. Accordingly, a jury of twelve residents of the barony met at Barnard Castle ; and, by virtue of their return, Clifford immediately seized for the crown " the Castle of Barnard, with all the lands and tenements which the bishop held of the barony of Gainford, and all other the lands and tenements which, by virtue of the said inquisition, ought to appertain to the king, and branches of the famUy were of note both in England and Scotland, every trace of the name was extinguished before the close of the 14th century. t About 240 years afterwards, namely in 1535, a biU passed the House of Lords, declaring Hartlepool and Barney Cassell to be in the county of York. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 9 none else." The fealty of the freeholders present was then taken ; and all the goods and chattels found in the castle, lands, and tenements were attached. The total annual value of the possessions thus obtained was £183 5s. 9fd., besides the dowers charged on them, amount ing to £150 13s. 4d. It may be added here, that, though Beck obtained restitution of the see in the first year of the following reign, yet neither he nor his successor, Kellaw, made any effort to regain the barony ; and even when, on the petition of Bishop Beaumont, the parliament recognized the right of the see to the disputed territory, and issued writs commanding restitution, yet these orders, repeat edly made, were never attended to. The Beatjchamps, Nevilles, and Plantagenets. — On the 2nd of February, 1307, King Edward I., then on a sick bed at Lanercost, conveyed to Guy Beau- champ, second Earl of Warwick, " the castle and vill of Barnard Castle, and manor of Middleton, with its chases and other appurtenances, in the bishopric of Durham, which belonged to John Baliol, an enemy and rebel to the crown, and which, by his forfeiture, had come as escheats to the king's hands." This act was dictated at once by gratitude for the past services of Warwick, and by policy, as a more proper person to be entrusted with the possession of an important northern fortress could not have been found than this stern and redoubted warrior. He was one of the nobles whom Edward I., when dying at Burgh on Sands, en joined not to let Gaveston return to England "to set his sone on ryot." On the ascendancy of that favourite, therefore, in the following reign, the Earl of Warwick joined Thomas Earl of Lancaster and others, and took Gaveston prisoner at Scarborough; but, on the inter cession of the king, the Earl of Pembroke undertook, upon forfeiture of all he had, that their victim should not escape, provided he himself were allowed to con duct him to a conference with the king. The rest seemed to consent; but, during the journey of Pem broke with Gaveston, Warwick came in the night with a number of armed men, and took the latter back to Warwick Castle, on a hill near which, after a short consultation, he was beheaded. The particular enmity which Warwick bore to Gaveston is said to have originated in the latter having called him " The black Dog of Arden," in allusion to his swarthy complexion ;* * " Pers Gaveston rayled on the nobles, calling Gilbert de Clare, Counte of Glocestre, Cocold'a Byrde ; Lacy Erie of Liucolne, Bode Crenee; and Syr Gui Counte of Warwicke, Noir Chien d'Arderne." in confirmation of which, it is added that, when the axe was raised over the neck of the unfortunate man, Warwick approached him, and, with characteristic ferocity, exclaimed, " This is the bite of the black hound of Arden!" None of the parties in this transaction were ever punished. The Earl of Warwick married Alice, daughter of Ralph de Tong, and widow of Tho mas de Leybourne, by whom he had issue Thomas, his successor ; John, captain of Calais, and admiral of the fleet, 23 Edward III. ; and five daughters. He died August 12, 1315, aged 44. Thomas Earl of Warwick succeeded his father at the age of two years. During his minority, Roger Mor timer, Earl of March, was governor of Barnard Castle, when an ineffectual attempt was made by Bishop Beau mont to regain possession of it. On the earl coming of age, "he was scarce ever out of some great and memora ble employment," being present at the battles of Cressy and Poictiers, and at the siege of Calais. He after wards accompanied Prince Edward in his wars against the infidels. In 41 Edward III., he was joined in com mission with Bishop Hatfield and others, to supervise the Marches of Scotland; and he was one of the founders of the Order of the Garter. On landing at Calais in 1369, whither he had been sent to assist the Duke of Lancaster and the Earlof Hereford, who were threatened by the French army, and whose troops were wasted by famine and plague, he reprehended their de laying to fight, and exclaimed, " I will go and fight before the English bread which I have eaten be di gested." He accordingly drove the French before him, but, on his return to Calais, fell a victim to the pes tilence which was raging, and died on the 13th November. His wife was Catherine, daughter of the Earl of March, by whom he had issue Guy, who died without issue at Vendome, April 28, 1351 ; Thomas, his successor ; Reynburne ; William Lord Bergavenny ; and nine daughters. Thomas, the second earl of the name, was 24 years of age when he succeeded his father is 1369. He was chosen one of the governors of King Richard II. during his minority ; but the control which they exercised over the early extravagance of the monarch was not forgiven when he assumed the reins of government. Warwick was suddenly arrested, and banished to the Isle of Man; and his eastle, town, and lordship of Barnard Castle, together with his manors of Middleton and Gainford, It is easy to conceive the exasperation that would be excited amongst the proud borons of England by the application of these offensive epithets. 10 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. were, in 1398, granted by the crown to William Scroop, Earl of Wiltshire. In the next year, however, they were restored by Henry IV. to the Earl of Warwick. By Margaret his wife, daughter of William Lord Ferrers, the earl had issue Richard, his successor, and four daughters, two of whom died in infancy, and the other two became nuns at Shouldham. He died on the 8th of April, 1401. Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, was an imper sonation of all the most brilliant and graceful attributes of chivalry. Henry IV., whom he assisted against Owen Glendower and Henry Hotspur, made him a Knight of the Bath. His travels extended to Russia, Poland, Italy, Venice, and the Holy Land. At Verona, he fought a single combat, according to the custom of the age, with Sir Pandulph Malacet, or Malet, who had challenged him, and whom he nearly slew. On his arrival at Jerusalem, he set up his arms on the north side of the temple.* After his return to England, he was appointed by Henry IV., with Bishop Langley and others, to treat concerning a peace with Scotland; and in the second year of Henry V., he armed himself to assist in putting down the Lollards. During the succeed ing wars in France, he was actively engaged ; and being appointed captain of the town of Calais, he sent three challenges to the French court, from whence three knights were deputed to the tournament. These Warwick him self successively encountered and vanquished, appearing on each occasion in a different suit of armour. At Con stance, shortly afterwards, Dugdale says he received a challenge from " a great duke" for his lady's sake, and, in jousting, slew him. Henry VI., to whom, in his youth, the earl had been guardian, appointed him regent of France ; an office which he held about four years, when he died at Rouen, April 1, 1439. He married, first, Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Tho mas Lord Berkeley, by whom he had three daughters ; and, secondly, Isabel, daughter of Thomas, and heiress of her brother, Richard Lord Le Despenser, by whom he had issue Henry and Anne. * Dugdale relates that "a noble person called Baltredam (the Sol- dan's Lieutenant) hearing that he was descended from the famous Sir Guy of Warwick, whose story they had in books of their own language, invited him," &c. "Afterwards Baltredam said he would wear the earl's livery, and be marshall of his hall ; and he gave Sir Baltredam a gown of black peak, furred. Moreover, Baltredam told the earl that he believed as he did, and rehearsed the articles of the Creed ; and he was skilful in sundry languages." f " On each side of the faded melancholy portrait of this unfortunate lady," says Miss Strickland, " in the pictorial history of her maternal ancestry caUed the Rous Roll, [stiU preserved in the Heralds' CoUege,] Henry Beauchamp, born in 1424, was created Duke of Warwick at the age of 19, and in 1445 was crowned king of Wight, but died on the 11th of June in the same year. By his wife, Cecily, daughter of Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, he had a daughter, Anne, who died in 1449, at the age of 10 years. The widely-extended possessions of the Duke of Warwick devolved, on his death, on his only sister, Anne, who married Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, son of the earl just mentioned, and who, by this union, acquired the title and estates of the Beauchamps. The eventful career of this illustrious nobleman, styled, from the influence he exercised during the Wars of the Roses, " The King-maker," is too well known to re quire repetition in this place. After his death on Barnet Field, on Easter-day, 1471, Bishop Booth made great efforts to procure a confirmation of the decision made in favour of the see in the parliament of Edward III., issued many instruments, and had repetition of the adjudication in his favour ; yet the family of War wick continued to hold Barnard Castle. The Earl of Warwick left two daughters; Isabel, who married George, Duke of Clarence, brother of King Edward IV. ; and Anne, who married, first, Edward, Prince of Wales, murdered at Tewksbury, and, secondly, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, another brother of the king, and who himself ascended the throne in 1483 as Richard IILf To these daughters, by an act of parliament passed in 1474, the possessions of the earl were assigned. On the attainder of the Duke of Clarence in 1477, the Duke of Gloucester, by some means, obtained the undivided possession of Barnard Castle. He had frequent employment in the affairs of the north and the wars in Scotland ; and it is probable that he sometimes used this castle as a temporary place of residence. That he effected considerable repairs and restorations may be inferred from his cognizance, the boar, sculptured on its walls ; and, indeed, its capabili ties as a military post could scarcely have escaped the eye of so consummate a warrior. By patent from two mysterious hands are introduced, offering to her the rival crowns of York and Lancaster." " 0, would to God, that the inclusive verge Of golden metal, that must round my brow, Were red-hot steel, to sear me to the brain ! Anointed let me be with deadly venom ; And die, ere men can say— God save the queen !" She pined away and died within a year after the death of heronlv child, Edward, Earl of Salisbury and Prince of Wales, the son of King Richard. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 11 Bishop Dudley, the duke held the rangership of Wear- dale Forest. On the death of Edward IV., Richard was attended to London by a troop of northern men, " marvellously ill-favor'd." But it was not merely for his bravery and military skill that this prince acquired his popularity in the north. In 1477, he obtained a license from Edward IV. to found a college within Barnard Castle, for a dean and twelve secular priests, ten clerks, and six choristers, to the honour of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, St. Margaret, and St. Ninian, and to purchase lands, &c, not exceeding the yearly value of 400 marks. The members of this college were to be " a body corpo rate, with all rights, powers, and privileges as such; and the said duke and his heirs to be perpetual patrons of the said college, to be called the college of Richard Duke of Gloucester, at Barnard Castle, in the diocese of Durham." It is probable that the stirring events in which he was subsequently engaged, delayed the com pletion of his design ; and his death on Bosworth Field, on the 22nd of August, 1485, put an end to all his plans. That some progress was made in the proposed buildings, has been inferred from the existence of several sculptured stones, bearing the name and crest of Richard, and built up in the walls of tenements. A sculpture in bold relief, apparently designed to be placed above a gateway, recently stood at the corner of Newgate Street, and represented an ecclesiastic be neath a canopied niche, with a pastoral staff in his right hand, a book in his left, and a rampant boar on each side. The conjecture of Surtees, that this group is a representation of St. Anthony and his usual attendant swine, is not borne out by the dedication of any build ing or chantry to that saint in Barnard Castle. On the death of Richard, this lordship was imme diately seized by his conqueror, Henry VII., who restored it to Anne, widow of the "proud setter-up and puller-down of kings," and mother of Isabel and Anne, wives of Clarence and Gloucester. This, how ever, appears to have been merely a method taken to secure the possessions to himself; for, on December 13, 1488, by a special feoffment and fine, she conveyed them wholly to the king, entailing them on the issue male of his body, with remainder to herself and her heirs. Barnard Castle and its dependencies continued vested * Sir George extols the loyalty of the townsmen of Barnard Castle, who had " not one recusant amongst them since the first yeare of her Ma'ies reign ;'' and adds, •• A° 30 of her Ma*'e» most happie reigne, it was publiquely given out that the Spanyards were arryved at Hart- VOL. II. in the crown for at least 20 years after this event. How it came into the possession of the Nevilles of Raby does not appear ; but it is certain that they held it for a considerable time before the rebellion of the last earl in 1569. On that memorable occasion, it was seized and garrisoned for the queen by Sir George Bowes, of Streatlam, who defended it against the main body of the insurgents for eleven days, and then, as is commonly recorded, surrendered it, for want of provi sions, upon honourable terms, being allowed to depart with arms, ammunition, and baggage. The account which he afterwards gave of the affair is as follows : — " In the last rebellion in the Northe, the townsmen at their owne cost watched the passages, bridges, and foards of the river Tease, to putt backe their enemye's and their provision about 30 daies together before the seige of the castle there. The enemys forces approeh- inge, six score townesmen, well appointed of their own charge, entered the castle, and contynued there in de fence of the same eleaven dayes, at which tyme the siege was raised."* But, in whatever manner the siege concluded, it had the desired effect of delaying the march of the insurgents until the Earls of Warwick and Surrey had time to advance, and thus contributed much towards the speedy suppression of the rebellion. The attainder of the Earl of Westmoreland threw the lordship once more into the possession of the crown, notwithstanding the interference of Bishop Pilkington. (See vol. i., page 67.) Concluding Details. — As a reward for the courage and fidelity of Sir George Bowes, he obtained from Queen Elizabeth a lease of Barnard Castle, and of some royal mines, for 21 years, which was renewed at his death. The fee of the castle and manor were after wards granted by James I. to his favourite, Robert Carr, Viscount Rochester, Baron of Brancepeth, and Earl of Somerset; but on his attainder, they again reverted to the crown. Soon after, they were, with Brancepeth and other estates, settled for the mainte nance of the household of Charles, Prince of Wales, by demise, for 99 years, to Sir Francis Bacon, attorney- general, and others, with power to grant leases for 27 years, or three lives ; and the survivors of the grantees assigned to Sir Henry Vane, Knt, for the unexpired remainder of the term. On March 14, 1626, in consi- lepoole, 20 myles distant from this towne, whereupon instantly about 400 townsmen, well armed and appointed, marched forward out of the same, to have resisted the invasion, if any had been attempted." This letter was written in 1591. 12 DARLINGTON WARD—SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. deration of a fine of £1,500, Charles I. granted to Samuel CordwelT and Henry Dingley, in trust for Sir Henry, the reversion of the assigned premises, together with all deer and wild cattle in the parks, and free chase and warren, to be held of the crown by knights' service, under the yearly rent of £100 19s. 4d. In 1640, Sir Henry Vane obtained a grant from the crown of sundry privileges annexed to his manor of Raby and honour of Castle Barnard, which latter was created a barony by William III. This title was first conferred upon Sir Christopher Vane, on July 8, 1699 ; and the Hon. Henry Vane assumed the title of Viscount Bar nard in 1754. The castle and manor of Barnard Castle are still vested in his descendant, the Duke of Cleveland. When the people of the county and city of Dnrham commenced their efforts to obtain parliamentary repre sentation in 1614, the borough or town of Barnard's Castell was named as a place entitled to return utem- bers. In the bill brought into the House of Commons, March 6, 1620, fourteen members were claimed for Durham. " The bill was committed ; reported with amendments, March 14. Knights for the county; citi zens for Durham. Barnard Castle to have burgesses, because the prince his town, and he desireth it; and Hartinpoole because a port. The rest refused for pestering the house." In the debate, Sir Thomas Wentworth argued, " Rather to leave out Barnard Cas tle, which is a dry town, than Hartinpoole." Sir Talbot Bowes — " In Hartepoole not a sufficient man to serve ; in Barnard Castle many. This the prince his town; that a subject's." On question — Durham to have knights ; Durham city to have two burgesses ; Barnard Castle two burgesses. The subject was again agitated in 1621, 1623, and 1624. In 1614, there was a great snow, the deepest ever known, and did not yield until Febuary 26 ; nine people of this place and neighbourhood were lost ; it was past travelling but in danger of life for man and beast; by report was six yards deep in the couutry. * The diary of Mr. Sanderson, of Egleston, in which the above cir - cumstance is recorded, contains, amongst family matters, several notices of passing events, as, " 1662— Rye, 10s. abushel ; wheat, 12s. ; peas, 7s., 8s. 1672 — A wet harvest ; oats out tiU Lukesmas. 1673 — Little hay cut till 1st Sept. ; corn unsound; multitudes of sheep died. )8th January, 39 ships cast away on the Northumberland coast, 16 be longed to Newcastle and Sheels ; their very best vessels. Oats, 6s. a bushel ; bigg, 6s. 6d. ; rye, 6s. 4d. ; malt, 18s. to 20s. aload, new mea sure. 1674 — A famine if corn had not come in at Newcastle ; oats not got in at Luke's day : at Rood-day, 1673, there was above 400 red deer in Teesdale forest, but were destroyed in the snow. 20th Dec, 1675, .much thunder and lightning ; 29th Jan., black-birds sang ; 19th Feb., In 1634, the severe winter obliged the people of Richmond and the bishopric to take their cattle over Stainmore to seek fodder after Fastness Eve. The plague broke out at Osmondcroft and Winston in 1636 ; and so great were its ravages in the neighbour hood, that Barnard Castle Magdalen fair was cried down. In April, 1645, that dreadful visitation again made great havock in the town and vicinity. After the rout at Newburn, in April, 1642, 500 Scots, of whom 200 were cavalry, were billeted upon the inha bitants of Barnard Castle, where they left a debt of £80. On January 3, 1644, Francis Walker, of Barnard Castle, Gent., was tried at the sessions at Durham, for saying, " The parliament are rogues, rebels, and traitors — God confound them and the devil confound them; and he wished the parliament house were blown upp with gunpowder as it should have been once, and he hoped to see them all hanged one against another within a short time — that the parliament ought to be kings themselves, and that they would have him (the king) to be worse than either you or I, and that he (the king) could not say the horse he rode on was his own. The exuberant loyalty of Francis Walker does not appear to have been participated in by his townsmen, when Lieut. Gen. Oliver Cromwell entered Barnard Castle on Tuesday, October 24, 1648. Anthony Mar- tindale, Matthew Stoddart, Cuthbert Raine, Robert Hutton, Francis Hutchinson, William Hutton, Morgan Rowlandson, Thomas Heslop, Samuel Martindale, George Dayle, John Lively, and William Wharton, went out to meet him, and rode before him into the town, where, having conducted him to his lodgings, they presented him with burnt wine and short cakes. He departed for Richmond on the following day.* Tradesmen's tokens were issued in Barnard Castle, in 1665 and 1666, by George Sanderson, Christopher Pinkney, William Hutchinson, Christopher Burfey, Matthias Sowerby, Anthony Markindaill, Thomas Bull, and Michael Alderson. the cuckow heard ; 28th Peb., his servant fishing, went dry shod over Tees at Winkham. 1676— A remarkable fine harvest ; aU corn got in before Sept. ; wheat 3s. 6d. a bushel ; rye, bigg, and barley, 2s. a bushel ; oats, 4s. and 5s a load, old measure. 28th October, 1678, the sun shining bright at noon, the stars were seen. In the beginning of Dec, 1680, was observed a long meteor, west and by north ; it appeared just at close of day, began at the top of the firmament, and reached the horizon. 1681— A great drought, no grass, cattle on baron lee, obliged to be carried up to the high feUs ; oats, in June 10s a load; rye loaves, Id. a pound ; rye, 7s. a bushel Winchester ; hay sold for six times its usual price, much remained to be mowed in the middle of September." 3 § CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 13 On the 18th of February, 1684-5, King James II. was proclaimed at Barnard Castle. The justices pre sent were Sir William Bowes, Mr. William Robinson, and Mr. Sanderson. Several gentlemen dined "at Blagrave's." Their music consisted of two trumpeters with silver trumpets, and four drums. During a very violent storm of thunder and light ning, September 19, 1729, a barn, with the corn in it, was set fire to and consumed. A house in the adjacent village of Startforth was also struck, the walls and fur niture of which were much damaged. Two children were playing on the floor in one of the rooms; but though one of them was thrown on a bed at some dis tance, it received no further injury than the fright. A fire broke out in the house of Robert Newby, barber, on July 11, 1748, destroying two other houses before it was extinguished. The Hon. Henry Vane sent his engine and apparatus to assist the inhabitants, and afterwards made a present of them to the town. In March, 1784, as some men were ploughing in the lands of Swaites Hall, near Barnard Castle, they turned up several pieces of silver, which, upon examination, were found to be coins of Henry I., and had probably lain in the ground near 600 years. A tradition of trea sure being hid there had been handed down in the family for ages. During the night of October 13, 1829, there was a strong gale of wind, accompanied by heavy and conti nued rain. The river Tees was swollen to much be yond its usual height during floods, and inundated many of the houses in the lower part of the town, particularly in Bridgegate, where it swept away furni ture, clothes, &c. On August 25, 1832, Barnard Castle and its neigh bourhood were visited by a violent thunder-storm, accompanied by a whirlwind, which completely un roofed a thatched cottage, and laid the inmates senseless on the floor. A large stack of hay was thrown down ; and a man, employed in breaking stones on the road, was lifted off his feet, and thrown to the ground, but without being much hurt. The whirlwind crossed the Tees, tore up some large trees near Lartington Hall, and killed a calf in a field at Cotherstone. The Tees rose to a great height, and the road between Barnard Castle and Bowes was rendered almost impassable. The district between Barnard Castle and Brough was, on the 9th of March, 1835, visited by a severe storm of snow and wind, which stopped the stage coaches and mails for more than a day. Her majesty Queen Victoria was proclaimed at Bar nard Castle, on the 3rd of July, 1837, by the steward, jury, and officers of the manor court, assisted by several of the respectable inhabitants of the town. The procla mation was first made in front of the King's Head inn, and afterwards at the usual places. Flags were hoisted on the steeple of the church and the Raby battery, and the bells were rung on the occasion. The events connected with the various town improve ments, the passing of the Darlington and Barnard Castle Railway Act, &c, will be noticed under their respective heads. THE CASTLE. The ruins of this ancient fortress, once amongst the most important and extensive in the north of England, crown a lofty series- of precipitous rocks on the north bank of the Tees, and originally commanded one of the principal passages between Durham and Yorkshire. The choice of its site is a proof of the military tact of its founder ; and now, long after its warlike uses have ceased, and its strongest and loftiest walls are crumbling to decay, it is still majestic in ruin, and may be consi dered as an appropriate monument to the kings, war riors, and statesmen to whose power it once formed so mighty an adjunct. The earliest description extant respecting this castle is that of Leland : — " The Castelle of Barnard stondith stately upon Tese. The first area hath no very notable thing yn it, but the fair chapelle, wher be 2 cantuaries. In the midle of the body of this chapel is a fair marble tumbe, with an image, and inscription about it in French. Ther is another in the south waul of the body of the chapelle of fre stone, with an image of the same. Sum say that they were of the Bailliolles. "The inner area is very large, and partly motid, and well furnished with towres of great logging. Ther belong 2 parkes to this castelle ; the one is caullid Marwood ; and thereby is a chace that be.rith also the name of Marwood, and that goith on Tese ripe up into Tesedale. There is but a hil betwixt the chases of Langeley and Marwood." The siege of this castle during the Northern Rebel lion has been already alluded to.* At that time, it must have retained much of its original strength. In a ballad preserved in Percy's Relics, it is related that • A common bishopric rhyme has been supposed, upon somewhat vague grounds, to refer to this siege, as having been a taunt used by he insurgents to the defenders of the castle : — " A coward, a coward o' Barney Cassel, Darena come out to fight a battle." 14 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. "the uttermost walles were lime and bricke," which the earls readily won; but that the innermost walls " were cut in rocks of stone," and presented a more formidable resistance. In a, survey and inventory, taken in 1592, the apart ments described as in the " round tower" are " the highest romth of the tower," " my ladies chamber," " the closett," " the bathing howse," " the third romthe," " the wyne seller," and " the lowest rome in the tower." In other parts of the castle were "the dyninge chamber," " the great chamber," " the little hall," "the buttrie," "the studye," "the gallerie," " Mr. Rob. Bowes' chamber," " the romthe wthout Mr. Robert's chamber," "Mr. David's chamber," "the romthe next the old nurserie," "the old nurserye," " the romthe under ye evidence," " the old hall by the wardrobbe," " the great wardrobbe," " the romthe wt]lin the wardrobbe," " the great hall," " the kitchen, larder, and paisterie," " the brew house," " the chamber over gateman's hole," " the entrie of the dungeon gat," " the many gate ward," " the great barne" "the garner," "two chambers over the many gates," " Mris Wickliff's lodg ings," " the hall," " Mr. George's chamber," and " the milk house." It is added that " the leades over all the Towers and lodgings conteyned in this Inventorie are in reasonable good repaire, saving that the rayne water entreth in at some small crisses wch is needful to be repaired. The doors of the said lodgings for the most p'te have no locks, being taken of and carried to Rabie, wth a great kasenett out of the studie by my ladies appointment. Some paynes of glas were taken downe out of the gallerie by Mr. Henry Bowes's direction, and imployed in the Many Gates. The state of all implemts and other things conteynid in this said Inven torie stand in effect according to ye former vewe, saving that the glas in the windowes are for the most p'te more ruynous by vehement wynds ; and will dalye decaie if further order be not taken for the same." The unroofing and dismantling of the castle is thus alluded to by an anonymous writer (in 1634) : — " I have thought (upon view of the late impregnable fort of Barnard Castle, which resisted the force of the Earles in their rebellion by the space of 11 dayes, and then yielded only upon composition) since it was pulled downe in the yeare of our Lord 1630, that it had beene a happy thing for us, and the whole kingdome, if the founder thereof had covered it with slate or straw. Oh! misery! -can £1,000 worth of leade, iron, wood, and stone, be more worth than a castle, which might have been a receptacle for a king and his whole traine ?" The dread of the author is, " that the iron and leade may peradventure be sold to the utter enemyes of our kingdom." The gradual and progressive decay of more than two centuries has effected the demolition of nearly all but the outward shell of this once magnificent fortress. The gateway of the outer area is approached from the west side of the main street of the town; and the castle walls on this side are covered by the backs of houses. All traces of the chapel have long been obliterated; the space consists of an open field, in which a few small gardens are placed beneath the ruined walls. There is no appearance of towers or bastions in this part of the walls, which are carried along the very verge of the cliffs, about 70 feet high, overhanging the street called Bridgegate, and surrounding the area on the east, south, and west. On the north and east, a deep fosse and strong wall separate this portion of the ruins from the site of the principal fortifications, which site is now oc cupied by an orchard, intersected by numerous traces of foundations. A quantity of lead, run amongst stones, was found about two feet below the surface a few years ago. It was here, probably, that the keep was placed ; and the circumvallations have been more lofty than those towards the south. A pond, near the middle of the orchard, is never dry, though on a much higher level than the moat, in which there is no water. Near the north-eastern angle are the remains of " Bracken- bury's Tower," a name suggestive of imprisonment. Its appearance is that of a gloomy dungeon, being an arched vault, now open towards the interior area. A passage through the wall on the south is filled un with earth and rubbish. There was a hearth and chimney on one side, and two niches on the other. A small square hole through the arched roof may have been used for letting down provisions. The top of this vault is covered with earth and bushes. In the centre of the northern wall of the castle there is a gateway leading to the Flatts. It is beneath a cir cular arch, partly built up ; and there are vestiges of flanking buttresses, the whole having been defended by a semicircular tower. To the west of this there is an angular projection, near which the top of the arch that connected the outer and inner moat is still visible. The north-western angle of the castle is formed by what has been called " Baliol's Tower," a circular erection of con siderable height, and of excellent ashlar masonry. It contains a stone dome or vaulting, 30 feet in diameter, without ribs or central pillar, and not more than 18 inches in height above the springing line. In the survey CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 15 •above mentioned, it is stated that " the leades over the said tower is in reasonable repaire, saving the gutters." The furniture of " my ladies chamber" consisted of " a portall of wainescot, a cupboard over ye chymney, the bay window syled on both sides wta waynescott, and the window wtlL glass, and iron in all p'ts whole ; the ¦glass is now something decaied." In the bathing house, " A great lead and a little one, a broken casnett, a spowt of lead, lying in ye wall, wth- a cocke, a leafe of a wyndow, and an old truncke wthout a lock. It'm, in my ladies chamb'r more, three barres of iron sett fast in ye chymney, a table of walnutt tree, a frame in the bay-window, the oute doore wthout a locke, and a por tal doore at the goinge uppe the staires." Certainly, a more romantic situation for a lady's bower can scarcely be conceived. This tower has been kept in better con dition than any other part of the castle, having been repaired and fitted up some years ago as a shot factory, for which purpose the walls above the ancient well were bored through. It is now occupied by a person who cultivates the orchard in the interior, and who also officiates as a guide to visitors. He has acquired the appellation of " the monk of Barnard Castle," and his single chimney-pot, smoking above the walls, contrasts somewhat oddly with the surrounding ruins. The western walls of the castle overlook the bed of the Tees, and command a splendid view of the more distant country. One of the most conspicuous features in this part of the building is a beautiful mullioned window, hung on projecting corbels. There can be little doubt that this was the work of Richard, Duke of Gloucester, as within it, on the soffit of its arch, there is a bold sculpture of the boar, surrounded by fanciful tracery. "And," says Mr. Surtees, "if this were Gloucester's state-chamber when he lay at Barnard, the selection does no discredit to his taste ; from no point is the wild and beautiful vale of Tees seen to more advan tage. Perhaps the military advantage, of a complete sweep of eye over the bridge and the approaches from the south and west, had its weight." This apartment, •called in the survey, the great chamber, contained, at that time, " the great baie-windowe wth- yron, two kas- * Early in the morning of March 12, 1827, a rock of some tons ¦weight was separated from its long abode, and came down with a tremendous thundering noise, from a height of 20 yards, against a house in Bridgegate, occupied by persons named Green and Dickin son. Instantly the side of the house gave way ,• and two children, who were sleeping in a lower room were for some time buried in its ruins, but were taken out unhurt. Dickinson, who occupied an up per room, was asleep in bed ; but though the floor gave way, and one side of the house disappeared, his bed was kept up by a holdfast to netts, and ye glas broken, one iron chymne, W^out a backe, two great dores wtnout locks, one dore goinge upe ye staires, w4llout a locke, a paire of trussells, and three walnut-tree planks in Mr. Fulthorpp's keeping." To the south of the large window, the wall is sup ported by four lofty buttresses, and contains two pointed windows. On this side of the fortress there was a sallyport, leading to the bridge. The wall near this place seems as if about to topple down the precipice immediately below. Indeed, between 60 and 70 years ago, a large portion of it, as high as that which remains, slid from its base and fell over the cliff; the chasm was afterwards filled up by a low wall. In the spring of 1810, a part of the south wall fell : it bat tered in the roof of a house, and a man at work in a saw-pit below was providentially preserved by a tree falling across it* The entire circuit of the walls in closes an area of 6J acres. Several coins of Edward I. and Edward III. have been found within the en closure. The garrison of the castle, as well as the cattle which Were sometimes collected within its walls in times of danger, were supplied with water conveyed in pipes from a large reservoir, called the Ever, in the Flatts, on the north side of the fortress. A Roman road, branching from the High Street from Catterick to Bowes, led over the Tees at this place by a ford called Street Ford, from which the little village of Startforth derives its name. In July, 1839, whilst the workmen were digging the foundation of a gasometer on ground presented for the purpose, they discovered a portion of this road at the depth of about 6 feet from the surface, 12 feet wideband quite perfect. It was formed of lime stone rock placed edgeways, and compacted with frag ments of sandstone, probably obtained from the river side. The road proceeded from hence, by way of Streatlam and Staindrop, till it joined the great road from Piercebridge to Binchester. The Flatts are now enclosed and cultivated, and present some of the most delightful scenery of a district which abounds in natural beauties, the attractions of which are not surpassed by those of any other part of the Tees.f the remaining Wall, and he remained suspended like a tenant of the air. Through assistance, however, all the inmates of the house were rescued from their perilous situation. t The author of " A Tour in Teasdale " says, " When you reach the tangled dell at the end of the terrace (the Flatts), wind down a small track to the rivulet, and take the road through a fine hanging wood by the Tees side to a small inclosure, part of an ancient park' in the true character of Shakspeare' s forest scenes, where his outlaws 16 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. THE TOWN. The town of Barnard Castle is 25 miles, by road, south-west from Durham, 39 from Gateshead, 45 from South Shields, 38 from Sunderland, 38 from Hartle pool, 28 from Stockton, 16 from Darlington, 14 from Bishop Auckland, and 224 north-north-west from Lon don. In 1851, the population was 4,357, of whom 2,088 were males and 2,269 females ; and] there were 644 inhabited houses, 8 uninhabited, and 11 building. For the population of the township, see page 4. The town is about a mile in length, and is situated on the southern slope of a hill, which descends steeply to the river Tees. It is approached from the north-east by the Bowes and Sunderland Bridge turnpike, which connects it with Staindrop, Bishop Auckland, and the great north road to Durham. Gallgaie, or Gallowgate, is a broad street or suburb running from east to west. According to some authorities, the ancient town of Marwood stood here, before Barnard Castle was built. The street is supposed to derive its name from having been the place of execution belonging to the lordship. Spearman, who wrote in 1729, says, " The place of execution of felons is at this day apparent ; and the trials of matters of right were there (at the castle) till 26th King Henry VIIL that it was enacted that all felons should be tried by the king's commission ; since which time the felons have been tried at Durham, to save the king's charges of justices coming to Barnard Castle." On an eminence, at the head of this street, where the roads to Staindrop and Middleton diverge, several stone steps and a broad pavement were dug up some years ago : these were supposed by some to have been the remains of the market cross of Marwood, but were more probably the site of the engine once used for the decapitation of criminals. A close in the vicinity was called, in ancient records, Hankeslave, or Hang Slave. Near the same place is an old chapel, called Bedekirk, now occupied as a farm-house. Some of the ancient lancet lights may still be seen in the east wall, and the piscina also remains. There are no re- revel and his fairies sport ; keep the river, and you will gain a most truly solemn and sequestered spot completely closed in by wood, and undisturbed by any sound save the remotely dashing water. The wild forms of the venerable oaks that skirt the old moss-covered wall of the inclosure; the noble height of the opposite hill, covered to the summit with lofty trees ; the glassy smoothness of the river at your feet, and the scattered masses of rock in its channel, impress you with delicious awe. Ascend the hill, and go through » ploughed field, along a carriage road, to a thatched helm or shed in a little wild coppice (in themselves a pleasing picture), and you. wiU enjoy a most enchanting scene ; but seek for a small oak beyond, near a serpentine cords relative to Bedekirk; but it is conjectured ta he a chantry, mentioned in the Valor of 1536, of the total annual value of £4 9s. It is the property of the reprc sentatives of the late Miss Lee, of Staindrop. King Street and Queen Street, formed within the last 30 years, adjoin Gallgate on the south. The Cattle Market joins the western extremity' of Gallgate, and is continued by the Horse Market and the Market Place, which, together, form the main street of the town, running nearly north and south : it is upwards of 40 yards wide, and contains several good houses, inns, and shops. At the southern extremity of the Market Place, the Town Hall stands nearly in the middle of the street. It is an octangular building, around the basement story of which there is a circular piazza, inclosed with an iron railing, and occupied by the sellers of eggs, butter, &c, on market days ; the inner portion of the building being used as a dungeon. A room in the upper story is appropriated to the transac tion of the town's business and the meetings of the magistrates. An inscription records that the building was " erected by Thomas Breaks, a native of Barnard Castle, in 1747." On the top there is a cupola, con taining a bell, and surmounted by a vane. Two circu lar perforations in the latter attest the dexterity of one of the Barnard Castle Volunteers, named Taylor, and Cruddas, one of the gamekeepers to the Earl of Strath- more, who, in 1804, fired at it from the door of the Turk's Head inn, at about 100 yards distance. The old tolbooth and the shambles, which formerly stood in this street, were removed by the Earl of Darlington in 1806, at the request of the inhabitants, by whom they were considered as a nuisance. Opposite to the Town Hall, the street called Newgate stretches to the east, and joins the road to Westwick, Whorlton, &c. The remarkable sculpture mentioned in page 11, which for many years stood on the ground at the north corner of the entrance to this street, has been removed to a place of greater security. A sculp ture, with a boar passant, is built up in the wall of one of the houses in Newgate.* path, rather below the summit of the hill, on the brow of the river, and you command at once a view each way. I shall not pretend to- describe it ; the pen and the pencil must alike faU." * An ancient oaken chair, conjectured to have been a part of the castle furniture in the time of Richard III., was long preserved in a house in this street, but was sold and removed a few years ago. The seat was plain ; but a wreath of flowers ran up each of the back rails. In the centre of the cross-rail was the crown of England, supported by a figure on each side ; and the foot-raU was also ornamented by a crown. OHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 17 Thorngdie is a continuation of the main street to the south from the Town Hall. The upper part, from its steepness, is called The Bank, and its footpaths for merly consisted of flights of steps. The lower part is terminated by the Tees. Thorngate appears to be the most ancient part of the town. Several of the houses are of stone, and roofed with flags. In the wall of one of these, a low dwelling, with mullioned windows, on the west side of the street, is a stone inscribed " Ricardus," in bold Old English characters. On the front of an arched passage in this house, there are two shields, the bearings on one of which are obliterated ; but the other bears the arms of Brunskill, an ancient Barnard Castle family. In the interior of the archway, three fragments have been inserted, which, if united, would read, "Broun. Abbat — cuj. a'i'e p'picie — tur Deus." Several old wainscot closets, in the interior of the house, are curiously decorated with carvings of birds, foliage, animals, and human figures. An old building formerly stood on the opposite side of the street, conjectured by Hutchinson to have been a house of friars Eremites, of the order of St. Austin, who ob tained leave of Archbishop Neville, in the vacancy of the bishopric of Durham, to build a priory and chapel, upon ground given by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. On a mullioned bow window in the front was inscribed, " Soli Deo honor et gloria." The back buildings formed a square, in the style usual in religious establishments. Some years ago, the front of the house was used as a chapel by Dissenters. It is now nearly all rebuilt, a small pointed arch only remaining of the original structure ; and the inscription has been built up in the interior wall. Bridgegate, or Briggate, is a long narrow street * " The Barnard Castle Tragedy," preserved in Ritson's "Durham Garland," shows "how one John Atkinson, of Murton near Appleby, servant to Thos. Howson, mUler, at Barnard Castle Bridge-end, courted the said Howson's sister ; and after he had gained her entire affection by his wheedling solicitatinns, left her disconsolate, and made courtsbip to another, whom he -married by the treacherous advice of one Thomas Skelton, who, to save the priest's fees, &c, performed the ceremony himself; and. upon hearing the news, the de serted maiden broke her heart, and bled to death upon the spot. This being both true and tragical, 'tis hop'd 'twill be a warning to all lovers." The vicinity of tho bridge has, of late years, acquired » sort of notoriety, in consequence of murders and other outrages having been committed there. The last recorded instance is that of Charles White, hawker, whose body was found in the Tees on the 7th of May, 1851, with four wounds, seemingly from a sharp instrument, on the head, and having apparently been in the water about three weeks. Several persons deposed to having seen him in a state of intoxication at various times, a few weeks before the body was found ; and his hat, which he had purchased for 2|d., was found at a place called " The which diverges from the foot of The Bank towards the west and north-west, and skirts the foot of the rocks which bear the ruins of the castle till it reaches the bridge. This street forms the only road into the town from the south, except a winding path around the west and north sides of the castle. The Bridge, consisting of two strong groined arches, connects Barnard Castle with the village of Startforth, on the Yorkshire side of the Tees. The arch on the Durham side is somewhat higher than the other. In Leland's time, " the right fair bridge on Tese" had three arches. There is an inscription now nearly obli terated, on the battlement of the north arch, " E. R. 1569," which, if it be the date of its erection, suggests a conjecture that the two previous arches may have been so injured, or perhaps entirely destroyed during the siege of the castle in that year, as to render their removal necessary, when the present more elevated arch might be substituted. During the great flood of 1771, the Tees was so high that the lower arch, on the Yorkshire side of the river, was not sufficiently capa cious for the great quantity of water. The battlement was consequently forced down, and the water took its course along the street of Startforth, drove away the causeway, washed off the soil down to the rock, and demolished eight dwelling houses, so that not one stone was left upon another. The road at the end of the bridge was washed away to the depth of four yards, so that persons passing into Yorkshire were obliged to go down a ladder. Successive repairs and additions have been made on the bridge since that time ; and it is now a strong, substantial building, well adapted to resist the floods to which it is frequently exposed.* Gentleman's Hole," about a mile from where the body was disco vered. The verdict of the coroner's jury was, " That the deceased had come to his death by being cast into the river Tees, and thereby drowned, by some person or persons unknown ;" thus involving a charge of wUful murder. The mystery of the case excited considera ble interest, as the deceased was a poor harmless feUow, and without money to form a temptation for robbery. It was probably this event, with others of a simUar nature, which drew from Mr. Justice Cress- weU certain animadversions on the character of the people of Barnard Castle, which will be noticed in their proper place. But other scenes have been enacted on Barnard Castle bridge. According to Sir Cuthbert Sharp, the Rev. Alexander Hilton, curate of Denton in 1681, and a member of the family of Hilton, of Hilton, left a son, named Cuthbert, of great notoriety, who having taken orders in no church, but having been trained as a Bible clerk under his father, went to Barnard Castle, and celebrated illicit marriages upon the centre of the bridge. The old rhyme said to have been made use of by him on these occasions, after having made the parties leap over a broom-stick, is as follows : — 18 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Though the principal streets of Barnard Castle are wide and airy, a great part of the population reside in the narrow and confined courts, alleys, and yards, which branch off from the main thoroughfares. Of these there are upwards of 70, many of which are approached by covered passages from the front, without any other out let. The houses, which are of stone, are generally three stories high. The second floor, in many cases, is reached by stone steps built on the outside of the front wall. Each house is subdivided into separate tene ments of one room, small in size, and low pitch. In numerous instances, the windows are not even made to open. The lower parts of the walls are generally damp for want of subsoil drainage and eaves guttering. Many of the houses occupied by the working classes are the property of farmers, who, by virtue of the ownership, obtain certain privileges in the shape of ex emption from tolls. For their benefit, also, immense masses of manure are allowed to accumulate in the premises, which contribute materially to vitiate the at mosphere, and, by soaking into the subsoil, tend to deteriorate the quality of the water in the adjoining wells. The strata forming the earth's crust in the town varies. At the head and east side of Gallgate, the Horse Market, Hall Street, and Queen Street, the upper stratum is of a wet, moving, sandy nature; from Queen Street to the Town Hall, it is clay and gravel ; to the south of this, the limestone crops out ; and at a short distance further, gritstone makes its appearance. The west side of the town is, to a considerable extent, made ground. The town and district around are, generally speaking, very healthy ; but particular localities, from defective drainage and local impurities, are not so. In many of " My blessing on your pates, and your groats in my purse, You are never the better, and I am never the worse." It is but justice to say, however, that the authenticity of this cou plet has been controverted ; and it is said to have been, like the ballad on the feud between " Ridley and Featherstonehaugh," an effusion of the sportive muse of Mr. Surtees. Sir Cuthbert Sharp adds, "This Psntifex Maximus left six sons, on whom he quaintly bestowed the names of Abraham, Job, Solomon, David, Cuthbert, and Alexander, and who seem to have derived no stain from their father's illegal practices. They were remarkable only for their industry and inge nuity, and were the first artizans in Barnard Castle who practised the art of dyeing cloth of various colours." * The following sentence of excommunication, issued by Bishop Hatfield, affords a striking instance of the lawlessness and outrage prevalent in the district in his time, from the effects of which even churchmen were not exempted : — " Whereas certain sons of Belial wantonly laid sacrilegious hands on Sir John de TTpsal, priest, thereby incurring the penalty of the the courts and yards, the wind can never by possibility. sweep the surface y and even in the main streets, erec tions have been so plaee"d as to impede adequate ventila tion -f there are no through streets, and although the Market-place is comparatively wide, yet the position of the Town Hall, at the junction of Newgate Street and the Bank, seriously impedes a free current of air. The roads and foot-paths in the township are under the control of an unpaid board of surveyors, four in number, elected annually in vestry, irrespective of the proper qualification for the business of road-making,. who make and collect their own rates. The length of roads in the township is about 17 miles, and excellent materials for their formation and repair abound in the district. There are no public foot-paths except in the town ; the proprietors, where flagging is laid, pay the first cost, and it is afterwards kept in repair by the sur veyors. The kennels are pitched with pebbles. The Duke of Cleveland, as lord of the manor, keeps the pavement of the Market in repair. THE CHURCH. The church stands near the angle formed by the junc tion of Newgate Street with the Bank, and is a spacious building, capable of accommodating 900 persons. It consists of a nave and narrow side-aisles, a transept, a chancel, and a square detached tower at the north-west corner.* The whole of the exterior walls are embat tled. The tower was formerly surmounted by a leaden spire; but it was taken down in 1774, being then un safe, and the tower was raised to the height of 60 feet. The original peal of bells were four in number, the oldest of which was of excellent tone, and inscribed around its rim, " Campana Sancte Trinitatis et omnium canon (Si quis Diavolo suodenti) ' Whoever by the instigation of the devU ;' and afterwards they followed close after the said Sir John to the church of Barnard's Castle, whither he fled through fear o£ death, and beset him in the said chapel : having tried in vain to drag him out, and having then forced him to retire, so that he sought, for a last refuge, the belfry of the said chapel, and got up into it, they then endeavoured to suffocate him with stupifying fumes and poison ous odours, and thus maliciously inflicting, by their very many de testable devices and cruelties, no Uttle injury and distress on the said priest, and an open affront of the whole clerical body. Wherefore,, in respect of the aforesaid evU doers, declare publicly and with aU due ceremony in the churches, when the largest number of the people shall be assembled, that these men have incurred the sentence of the greater excommunication stated in the canon, and that they are and have been altogether excommunicated. The absolution of all these men, except on their death-bed, we particularly reser ve to ourselves- and our successors, Farewell. Given at Auckland, the 23rd day of January, 1378.'' CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 19 Sanctorum.n The whole were removed in 1823 ; and a new peal of bells, cast by Mears of London, were purchased, towards which Bishop Barrington, the Earl of Darlington, Sir John Hullock, Miss Lee of Stain drop, and several other gentry, liberally subscribed. The weight of the bells is 73 cwt. 2 qrs. 81bs. The entrance to the church from the west was re stored in 1813, when the whole of the interior, which Hutchinson says was "wretchedly stalled and the pave ment broken," was repaired and neatly pewed. The north aisle is formed by an octagonal and two cylindrical pillars, supporting circular arches of unequal span; and that on the south by three octagonal pillars sup porting pointed arches. The windows of the aisles are square, with mullioned compartments. The south porch of the transept, in which was anciently a chantry of the Virgin, has long been used as the burial-place of the Boweses of Streatlam, several of whose escutcheons, with a helmet, a gauntlet, and a banner, decorate its walls. The south window of this porch consists of five lights under a square head ; and another window to the east is double under a pointed arch. The north transept has two low blank arches in the east wall, and is lighted by a modern sash. The arch above the entrance to the chancel is pointed, decorated with sculptures of foliage and human heads, rising from pilasters with em battled capitals. The east window, which was rebuilt in 1816, consists of five lights under a pointed arch; and instead of the two windows on the south, a pointed one was inserted at the same period. There are two galleries, one in the north transept, and the other at the west end of the nave. The font is a large octagonal bason, of the black marble found in the Tees, sculp tured on four of its alternate faces with a raised shield ; the intermediate compartments containing a triangular device, supposed to be the marks of tradesmen or bur gesses who presented the font to the church. On the 24th of October, 1839, the church was, for the first time, lighted up with gas, the funds for which were provided by public subscription. On the death of the late incumbent, the Rev. John Davidson, in 1847, a subscription was commenced for the erection of a stained glass window to his memory, towards which the Duke of Cleveland gave £10; Lady Hullock, £2 2s.; Mr. Joseph Hollis, 10s. 6d.; a friend, by Mr. Brownless, churchwarden, £1. The entire ex pense was estimated at from £30 to £40. The ancient window on the east side of the south transept has been filled with stained glass, containing a suitable design and inscrip ion. VOL. II. Robert de Mortham, vicar of Gainford, in 1280, founded a chantry to the Virgin in Barnard Castle church, where there were five other chantries, the founders of which are unknown, viz. :— those of St. Catherine, St. Helen, and St. Margaret, (the two latter within the castle,) with an endowment of £6 a year ; that of the Twelve Apostles ; and the guild or fraternity of the Holy Trinity, with a yearly income of £5 18s. 8d. A recumbent effigy of Robert de Mortham, in his ecclesiastical robes, with the cup in his hands, remains on an altar-tomb, in the south transept, where are also some other architectural remains of his chantry. A stone coffin lid, sculptured with a highly decorated cross, chalice, books, &c, is built up in the north-east angle of the exterior chancel wall ; and part of a sculp tured cross, found in taking down the south wall of the chancel in 1819, was afterwards placed at the outside of the south-east corner. On one side of a curious table- monument, near the west end of the south aisle, is a coloured effigy of George, son of Humphrey Hopper, of Black Hedley, Northumberland, who died March 30, 1725, aged 23. He is dressed in a cocked hat, blue coat, and yellow breeches, of the fashion of the time, holding a red rose in one hand, and in the other a scroll inscribed — "Here stands my Statue carved in Stone To mind yo Liveing I am gone. He cometh forth like a flower and is cut down." In contrast to this blooming figure, the other side of the monument contains a representation of a skeleton, with the initials of the deceased, and — "Death cuts down all both Great and Small." The following inscriptions are on the ends of this tomb : — " Blessed are the Dead who die in ye Lord. — I know that my Re deemer liveth." " When the shrill trump of God shall pierce The Secret chambers of the Dead, And rowze the Sleeping Universe Prom out their owze, or dusty bed, Such bright rewards will Vertue have When waft by angels, She may Sing Boast triumph now, insulting grave ; Relentless Death ! where' s now thy Sting ! In the south wall of the transept is a brass, enclosed in a frame of wood, and bearing the following inscrip tion : — "Bernard Castle. — Ionathan Rogers filivs primogenitvs Ioh'is Rogersii A. M. et Gratia? vxoris eivs Obiit An° x'i 1650 Nov. 8. Hee peep'dinto the world, where hee could see, Nought but confusion, Sinne and misery D 20 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Thence scap'd into his Sau'ors armes thus hee Gott Heauen, for fourteene dayes mortality. Iohn Rogers fllivs 2dvsl. R. et G. R. Obiit An" x« 1652, Avg. 30. Bles'd Soule, Thy name did mind of God's grace Thou wast his gift, whose loue shew'd vs thy face But hee that gaue, did take in 7en moneths space Thou found'st in Fathers armes a resting place." A splendid monument of Malta stone was erected in the chancel, in 1835, to the memory of Baron Hullock :* it forms a niche in the wall, containing a statue of the Goddess of Justice, underneath which is the following inscription, upon marble, supported by a carved corbel bearing the arms and crest of the deceased baron : — "To the memory of the Hon. Sir John Hullock, Ent., and Baron of the Exchequer. He was born at Barnard Castle, April 3., 1767, called to the bar by the Society of Gray's Inn in 1793, married in 1794, raised to the bench of the Exchequer in 1823, and died at Abington , in Berks, on>his judicial circuit, 31st July, 1829. By a clear and vigorous mind, he rose to eminence as a sound lawyer, and, promoted solely by his learning, industry, and integrity, he discharged the duties of a judge to the general satisfaction of his country. This monument is erected by his afflicted widow." The church-yard is situated on the brow of the hill which overlooks the Mains, and is surrounded by dwelling-houses and other buildings ; its surface being, in parts, several feet above the level of the adjacent streets and houses. The chief part of the ground is held by immemorial occupation ; the entire area is about 7,725 yards. The average number of inter- * Sib John Hullock. — This eminent lawyer and able judge, the son of Timothy Hullock, Esq., of Barnard Castle, and descended from a family traced back to the reign of Henry VIIL, was born in 1764, and in early life was entered at Gray's Inn. He practised at the bar upwards of 20 years ; and in 1792, he published " The Law of Costs," a work which brought him favourably into notice. "The Law of Costs in Civil Actions and Proceedings," another production of his pen, appeared in 1796 ; and a second edition, in two volumes, was published in 1810. In that year, he resigned the office of recorder of Berwick, which he had held for some time, and was succeeded by Christopher Cookson, Esq. Amongst the counsel on the northern circuit, he was only surpassed by Mr. Scarlet, afterwards Lord Abinger. The following anecdote has been adduced as a proof of the manliness of his character :— " In a cause which he led, he was particularly instructed not to pro duce a certain deed unless it should be absolutely necessary. Not withstanding this injunction, he produced it before it was necessary, with the view of deciding the business at once. On examination, it proved to have been forged by his client's attorney, who was seated behind him at the time, and who had warmly remonstrated agains*: the course which he had pursued. Mr. Justice Bayley, who was trying the cause, ordered the deed to be impounded, that it might be made the subject of a prosecution. Before this could be done, however, Mr. Hullock requested leave to inspeet it ; and on its being handed to him, immediately returned it to his bag. The judge remonstrated ; but in vain. No power on earth, Mr. Hullock replied, should induce him to surrender it ; he had incautiously put the life of a fellow-creature in ments, during the seven years ending 1848, was 114-29 per annum. Besides the escape of morbific' matter on the opening of graves, it is probable that some portion is carried off with the drainage, and pollutes the water in the wells to the south, between the church-yard and the Tees. In the month of June, 1824, a Roman coin, nearly the size of a sovereign, was found in the church-yard by the sexton. It was in a state of good preservation, and round a head decorated with a wreath of laurel, was the following inscription : — " Imp. Caes. Nerva Tka- ianavs Geem." (The Emperor Caesar Nerva Trajanus Germanus). On the reverse side is a crowned figure seated, and holding an olive branch in the right hand, round which is inscribed — " P. M. Tr. P. Cos. in. P./ P." (a high priest, a tribune of the people, thrice a con sul, and styled the father of his country). Nerva Tra jan reigned in the 98th year of the Christian era; consequently the coin is above 1750 years old. Registers. — Book No. 1 contains baptisms from 1609 to 1687, burials from 1617 to 1687, and mar riages from 1619 to 1687 (defective); Nos. 2 to 6, baptisms and burials from 1688 to 1812, and marriages' from 1688 to 1753 ; and Nos. 7 and 8, marriages from 1754 to 1812. Barnard Castle chapelry, in the deanery of Darling ton, is not in charge ; the vicar of Gainford, patron. Dedication to St. Mary. peril ; and though he had acted to the best of his discretion, he should never be happy again were a fatal result to ensue. Mr Justice Bayley, not sorry, perhaps, to have an excuse for assisting the design, con tinued to insist on the delivery of the deed, but declined taking de cisive measures until he had consulted with the associate judge. The consultation came too late ; for the deed was destroyed without delay, and the attorney escaped," In 181 ff, Mr. Hullock was promoted to the rank of serjeant-at-law ; and during the few years he occupied that position, he was engaged in several important causes. On the resignation of Mr. Baron Wood in 1823, Mr. Serjeant Hullock was promoted to the office of one of the Barons of the Court of Exchequer, a situation which he held tUl the time of his death, and the duties of which he discharged with integrity and sagacity. On Saturday, the 25th of July, 1829, he arrived at Abingdon as one of the Judges of Assize of the Oxford circuit, and, on the following day, he attended divine service, apparently in good health ; but in the course of the night, he experienced a violent attack of cholera morbus, of which he died on the following Friday. On- the 21st of August, his remains reached Barnard Castle, and were deposited in the famUy vault. A numerous concourse assembled to witness the procession ; and his empty carriage was followed by a number of aged women, who had been maintained chiefly by his charity, and who testified their grief by tears and lamentations. A funeral sermon was preached in the church on the Sunday following, by the Rev. John Davidson, incumbent of Barnard Castle, from % Sam. iii. 38, " Know ye not that a prince and a great man 'is fallen this day in Israel:" CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 21 CttftATEs— John Messenger, 1436; Sir John Slake, prest., 1483 Peter Carter, cap., 1533; Ralph BaUles, cl„ 1665 : Thomas Clerke, 1566; Ralph Heightley, 1570 ; Matthew Copperthwaite, 1576 ; Cuth bert Bradley, 1577 ; John Shering, 1622 ; Giles Forster, A.M., 1634 John Rogers, A.M., an intruder, 1644 ; WUliam Bickerton, A.M. 1672 ; John BrockeU, 1673 ; John Chapman, A.M., 1682 ; Alexander Swinton, a Scot, 1694 ; Arthur Wilton, 1736, p. m. Swinton ; Tho mas Marshall, 1739, p. m. WUton; Taylor Thirkeld, 1740; Thomas Forster, A.M., 1740; John Charlton, A.B., 1743, p. m. Forster; WUUam Dunn, A.B., 1747, p. m. Charlton ; Joshua White, A.M., 1760 ; James Stubbs Hale, 1785, p. m. White ; John Davidson, 1816, p.m. Hale; George Dugard, A.M., 1847, p. m. Davidson. The income of the curacy is derived from a stipend of £6 10s. paid by the vicar of Gainford ; £10 per annum from the trustees of Lord Crewe's charity ; £63, the rent of 108 acres of land at Holdsworth, in Mar wood, left by Mr. Butler ;* £9, the rent of 12 a. 1 r. 3 p. at Northfield, in the parish of Startforth, purchased with Queen Anne's Bounty ; with 30 acres at Bowes, Cow Close, and an allotment on Bowes Moor ; the church-yard, and the surplice fees. The living was augmented with £200 from Queen Anne's Bounty in 1723, to meet a benefaction of £200 from John Lodge, Esq. ; in 1812, with £200 by lot from the same fund; and in 1815 with three sums of £300 to meet three sums of £200 from Bishop Barrington, Trinity College, Cambridge, and Lord Crewe's trustees. In 1817, a house and garden for the incumbent, situated at the extremity of Newgate Street, were purchased for £830 derived from these benefactions. The gross income of the living is £228 per annum, subject to permanent payments amounting to £5. The discrepancy between the population of Barnard Castle and that of the mother parish of Gainford, as contrasted with the respective endowments of the livings, has long been regarded as a grievance. A meeting of lay members of the Church of England, for the purpose of discussing this anomalous subject, was held in the Witham Testimonial early in January, 1850, William Watson, Esq., of Spring Lodge, in the chair, at which it was stated that a petition on the subject had been pre sented to parliament by Lord H. Vane. Copies of the petition had been forwarded to the Bishop of Durham, the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, Cambridge * Mr Thomas Butler, brother-in-law to Mr Alderman Barnes, in his will, dated August 19, 1678, styles himself a farmer at Cletlam, and bequeaths two farms in Marwood, "for the maintainence of a preaching minister of Barnard Castle," charging his executor, Mr, Barnes, to fulfil his will, " as he will answer it at God's judgement seate." He desires his body to be opened, that it may be known what was the cause of the pain in his side. He leaves " Fox's Book of Martyrs" to the use of the minister of Barnard Castle ; to the vicar of Gainford "WiUiams true Church, or Sollomans Viniard;" and to (patrons of the living of Gainford), and the vicar of that parish. A committee of 25 laymen was appointed, to further the object of obtaining a more equitable division of the revenues of the parish. In reference to the income of the curacy, Surtees quotes the following extracts from a terrier of " the High Parish of Gainford" (Barnard Castle), given in by John Lively, vicar, March '20, 1635: — " Mr. John Lively holdeth the church-yard, containing about an acre. " Item. All tithes of what kind soever in the whole chapeby, excepting the corn tithe of the whole chapelry ; and also the tithe hay of Westwick, and except as hereafter is excepted. " The owners of the corn mylnes pay, as we are informed, by an cient prescription for the tithe of the same, viz., the maynes mill, 13s. 4d., for Thorngate mill, 13s. 4d. on the feast of St. Mark the Bishop, in winter. " Excepting that the Hontlo Sir Henry Vane and owner of the parks of Marwood doth pay, according to ancient prescription, for the tithe hay, and all other tithes renewing in the said parks (except the ancient tenants within the said park, viz., Metcalfe's, Raine' s, and Mitchel's farm), 13s. 4d. on the 22d July, which ancient tenants of the farms aforesaid, and of other farms and tenements, do pay at Easter, viz. Metcalfe's farm, 12d. ; Garfoot's farm, 19d. ; Barne'sfarm, 12d. ; MitcheU's farm, 12d. ; John MitcheU for Parrock Houses, 3d.; John Raine, for his farm in Shipley, 12d. ; Ralph Simpson, for ditto, 12d. ; John Raine, for Holdersworth-field, 6d. ; George Hodgson, for Robert Knott, 4d. ; ditto, for West Roger Moor, 4d. ; ditto, for half of Marwood House, 2d. ; Gabriel Wharton, for the other half, 2d. ; ditto, for East Roger Moor, 5d. ; Henry Raine, for HoUerbush, 4d. ; John Hodgson, for Low HoUerbush, 4d. •'Mr. Cudbert Thoresby doth pay, according to ancient prescrip tion, for the tithe-hay of Woolhouse, at Easter, only 4s. 8d. " Mr. Middleton, for the tithe-hay of the Broad Close, Alkenhead Close, Hill Close, and Dyke Nook Close, 3s. 4d. " As we are credibly informed, the land caUed Beedekirk, now in the occupation of Widow Arrowsmith, payeth no tithe at aU. " William Lively, Gent., at Easter, for the tithe-hay of Gibb Garths in Barnard Castle, 2s. 6d." [The two preceding paragraphs have been crossed out.] " Gabriel Wharton, now tenant of the Flatts, for tithe-hay and all other tithes, 10s. 22d July. " The farmers of Streatlam pay for tithe-hay of the farms thereof, 26s. 8d. 22d July. " The farmers of Stainton and Brennylaw, for their tithe-hay on St. Mark's Day, only 5s." In this document an account is rendered of the sur plice fees and oblations, and of the mode of drawing all the chUdren whom he " gave Chiistendomo to," half a crown apiece. In remarking on the disinterestedness and impartiality of Mr. Barnes's conduct in the conveyance of this estate, Sir R. Shafto, the counsel, gave his opinion that the " disposition of the said estate in Marwood for maintenance of a preaching minister, was a good appointment within the statute of 43 Eiiz. However, he thought the land well de vised to Mr. Barnes, who might convey as the will directed ; and that none of the devises in the will would make mortman, there being no device of the land to the parson or vicar and his successors." DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. tithe of calf, fleeces, lambs, foals, &c. "For every woman giving thanks after childbirth, a cade, viz. half a yard of cloth worth 5d. and a penny in money." For every marriage, 6d. For every corpse man-born upon the bier, now 9d. ; and for every corpse brought upon the head, now 5d., but in memory of man 5d. and 3d. [but twenty years ago, when Mr. Dickon (Archdeacon) Cradock was vicar of Gainford, and one Mr. Sinclair (? Shering), curate of Barnard Castle, he did raise and execute ye said fees, &c] ; and for every corpse brought form Whorlton, one penny. For every freeholder in the town, a penny for smoke; and for all other persons in the chapelry, ahalfpenny. Within the town, apenny a plough ; without, a halfpenny. For the milk of 20 ewes, 4d. For a tithe goose, Id. "For a hen within the chapelry with out the town, whether they have any or none, 2d." The payment of church-rates, as in many other places, has frequently been objected to. During a contest in 1848, the church clock was stopped by the churchwar dens, and the bells were not allowed to be rung on the Sunday. The result of the poll being adverse to the rate, a subscription, in the form of a voluntary rate, at Id. in the pound, amounting to £50, was agreed to be raised, for defrayimg the usual expenses ; but the sums re ceived by the churchwardens only amounted to £26 ; this they applied in paying some of the demands upon them, leaving others unpaid, and, amongst the rest, the sexton. That official, it appears, had held the office for 27 years, previous to which his ancestors had filled the office of parish clerk for upwards of 160 years. He was allowed, at a vestry meeting, held in 1845, a salary of £14, which was confirmed in 1846 ; and for this sum he brought an action, in the Barnard Castle county court, against the churchwardens, on the 17th June, 1847. The vestry minute, fixing the salary, was produced ; and he also proved the performance of his official duties. For the churchwardens, it was submitted that the rate payers being a fluctuating body, the resolution of 1845 was not binding upon their successors in 1846, who, by refusing a rate, had decided that there should be no salary ; and that the churchwardens were not liable, as they had not personally made any contract with the plaintiff. The case was adjourned, and eventually de cided in favour of the defendants. The sexton was afterwards empowered to collect for himself the arrears of the voluntary rate ; but so small were the sums received, that on February 16, 1848, there was still a deficiency of £11 2s. ljd., which he afterwards attempted to make up by an appeal to the inhabitants of the chapelry generally. The subject of Easter dues has also been long agitated in Barnard Castle ; and on March 4, 1854, a cause was tried at the spring assizes at Durham, Stephenson v. Snaith, in which the plaintiff, parish clerk of the cha pelry, sought to recover the sum of Is. 8d., being five years' arrears of Easter dues, from the defendant, a householder within the chapelry. In the course of the trial, it was stated that the plaintiff had been met in the county court by a prohibition from the Queen's Bench, and was therefore compelled to bring his action in the present form. He had been appointed to his office of parish clerk in 1817, by the Rev. James Blackburn, vicar of Gainford ; and a terrier, dated 1792, was read, by which 4d. from each householder was ordered to be paid to that official as Easter dues. This, he stated, produced him about £7 10s. a year ; but, if all paid, it would amount to £17 or £18. In 1844, there was £270 due to him as arrears of fourpences ; and, at the time of the trial, there was much more, though he could not say how much. He was paid Is. 6d. for each marriage by banns, and 5s. for a marriage by license ; 9d. for the burial of a poor person ; Is. 6d. for a morning funeral ; and 3d. for a churching. Mr. Richard Frater, clerk to Mr. Davison, produced three terriers from the Consistory Court, which showed the appointment of the plaintiff, and the amount he was to receive as Easter dues. This witness also stated that he had produced the earliest terrier he could find. (See, however, that of 1635, quoted above.) The witnesses on behalf of the plaintiff deposed to having paid this 4d. regularly during the time he had held the office. For the de fendant, several persons deposed that they had never paid it; and his counsel argued that there was no evidence proving Barnard Castle to be a parochial chapelry, or to have been so since 1189, and that it was therefore to be considered a perpetual curacy. He also argued that the scale of charges just quoted was different from that of the terrier of 1792, viz. "The clerk's wages are by custom as follows — from each householder throughout the parish an Easter due of 4d. ; for every marriage by license, 2s. 6d., and by banns, Is. ; for a funeral, 6d. ; and for a christening, 3d. ;" and hence the payments could not be by custom, besides the total dif ference in the value of money since the early period necessary to constitute Barnard Castle a parochial cha pelry. The judge, in directing the jury, said there were three questions for them to consider : 1st, Whether Barnard Castle was a parochial chapelry ; 2nd, Whe ther it was so from time immemorial ; and, 3rd, Whether the 4d. had been unanimously payable to the clerk of the CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 23 chapelry. There was sufficient prima facie evidence of its being a parochial chapelry. If the contrary had been the fact, and it had been of modern creation, that must have been by act of parliament, which could have been produced. A verdict was returned for the plaintiff. Election of Churchwardens. — Prior to 1849, several disputes had arisen in Barnard Castle respecting the number, right to appoint, and mode of election of the churchwardens or chapelwardens. The management of the affairs of the chapelry (consisting of Barnard Castle and other three townships) had formerly been entrusted to a customary select vestry, a fixed proportion of whom had been chosen by each township. Amongst other acts, the vestry used to select churchwardens ; but the vestry itself having lost all legal existence, disputes were en gendered as to who should now appoint those officials, who acted for the whole chapelry. After many angry public meetings, the inhabitants of the chapelry agreed to submit the facts to Mr. Frederick Robinson, an emi nent barrister, and to act upon his decision. His writ ten opinion, dated 24th May, 1849, upon the state of facts, and various queries submitted to him, is now deposited in the parochial chest, and, in substance, is embodied in the three following paragraphs : — 1. That there is no valid subsisting custom for the election of a definite number of churchwardens by and for each separate township of the chapelry, nor for the election of those officials by a select vestry — that the inhabitants of the whole chapelry must unite with the incumbent in one appointment of two churchwardens ; and if they cannot agree, the inhabitants must appoint one, and the incumbent the other. 2. That at the meetings to elect churchwardens, there can be no plurality of votes ; the vestry act (58 Geo. III., c. 69) only applying to meetings of inhabit ants of a place all jointly maintaining their own poor. Here, the townships into which the chapelry is divided maintain their poor separately, and have separate over seers. The vestry act (Mr. Robinson stated) does not apply to meetings of a chapelry, where such chapelry is divided into townships, each maintaining its own poor : consequently, every inhabitant at a chapelry meeting, paying scot and lot, had a vote, a,nd no inhabitant more than one vote. 3. If a church-rate were duly granted, he (Mr. Robin son) was of opinion that the cost of warming and lighting the church, of ringing bells for divine service, and of taking a poll, if duly demanded, on a question affecting the election of chapelwardens, or the laying on of a VOL. II. church-rate, or the repair of the church, were legal items of payment out of a church-rate. Appointment of Sexton. — In 1849, the Rev. G. Dugard dismissed the sexton, Mr. G. Cansfield, from his office. This act was sanctioned by the churchwardens ; but the inhabitants claimed the right of appointing and dismissing the sexton. Writers on parochial and ecclesiastical law were obscure or contradictory on the subject; some al leging that the power was in the inhabitants, and others in the incumbent. Mr. Cansfield disputed the right of his successor to take the fees, and the inhabitants sup ported him in an action at law. The case was tried at Durham assizes in the spring of 1849, and after wards argued before the Barons of the Exchequer, at Westminister, who decided that the right to appoint and dismiss a sexton was not vested in the inhabitants at common law, unless there was an immemorial usage, which in this case there was not ; but that the right to appoint and dismiss belonged to the incumbent and churchwardens, where the sexton held his office distinct from the parish clerk, and performed the office of grave- digger as well as took care of the church utensils and its cleansing, &c. In other cases, where the offices of parish clerk and sexton were combined in one indivi dual, the right to appoint and dismiss was in the incum bent. The case therefore settles this question, It is reported in 4 Exchequer Reports, 234, and in the 18 Law Journal Reports, N. S. Exchequer, 361. CHAPELS. Roman Catholic Chapel. — About eight years ago, the Roman Catholics purchased a large building called the Union Hall, and converted it into a chapel. It is neatly fitted up in the interior, and capable of seating 500 hearers. Above the altar is a beautiful fresco of the crucifixion, copied by Mr. Harvey, a talented young artist of Barnard Castle, from the highly cele brated fresco in the Catholic chapel, Lartington Hall. The Rev. W. Allen is the officiating priest. There is a Sunday school held in a room adjoining, which is also used as a day school. Independent Chapel. — The religious part of the community in Barnard Castle would seem to have been early imbued with the principles of the Reformation, and prepared for the succeeding struggles of Noncon formity, by the preaching of the celebrated John Knox, whose first wife, Margery, was daughter of Sir Robert, and sister of Sir George Bowes, of Streatlam, Knight E 24 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Marshal. The Lady Isabella, second wife of Sir Wil liam Bowes, and daughter of Judge Wray, introduced the cause of Nonconformity into this town. She was a liberal patroness of the Puritan ministers, and frequently exerted her influence to obtain the liberty of such of them as had been silenced, whom she afterwards placed in such situations as she deemed most in need of their efforts. In the maintenance of ministers under her patronage, she bestowed no less than £100 per annum. On the death of her husband at Walton, near Chester field, Oct. 30, 1611, his body was sent for interment among his ancestors in the church of Barnard Castle.* Her domestic chaplain, Mr. Dike, attended the funeral, and, on his return, represented to her the very ignorant and irreligious state of the town, then, as he represented, destitute of a resident preaching minister. She was * In Surtees's pedigree of the Bowes family, it is stated that Sir William was buried at Chesterfield ; and this account has been fol lowed by Sir Cuthbert Sharp, in his " Memorials of the Rebellion." t Alderman Barnes. — Mr Ambrose Barnes was born at Startforth in the latter end of the year 1637. He was the son of Thomas Barnes, Gent., whose progenitors for several descents had resided at that place as lords of the soil andmanor. The early part of his youth was passed under the guardianship of Mr. George Stothart, of Barnard Castle, who was one of those then known by the name of Puritans, keeping many days of fasting, humiliation, and prayer ; and to the private meetings at his house resort was made by the then young Sir Henry Vane and others who afterwards figured in public affairs. The chief recreation of the young Ambrose, however, is stated to have been cock-fighting ! After due care had been taken in his education, he was apprenticed to a merchant in Newcastle, whose confidence he en joyed to so great an extent as to be allowed to make ventures on his own account. During the prevalence of the plague in the town, his master was so terrified, by the contagion having reached his female domestics, that, rising from dinner, and leaving his shop, books, keys, and business in the charge of Barnes, he repaired to Shields, and took a ship for Hamburgh. Barnes himself shortly after took the infection, and was shut up alone several days and nights, in a large empty house near the Exchange, and where his food was brought to the door for him to take in. A tumour on the back of his neck was supposed to have been the cause of his recovery. Having completed his appren ticeship, he went to Hamburgh, where he joined the "Eastland Com pany," but did not remain long. On the 12th of June, 1655, he mar ried Mary, third daughter of Thomas Butler, merchant adventurer, of Newcastle, by his wife, Elizabeth Clavering, of Callaley, Northumber land. By this marriage, Mr. Barnes had issue two sons and three daughters. He had not long been the governor of his own family, before he was thought worthy of a more public trust, and was elected alderman of Newcastle without his knowledge. On hearing of this, he repaired to the Spital, the place of election, and resigned the office, but was again elected on the following morning. Previous to the Restoration, he was the means of bringing to Newcastle several of the most eminent Puritanical ministers of the day, and professed great attachment to their preaching and doctrines. Though attached to the principles of the Commonwealth, he took the oaths of supremacy and allegiance on the 25th of October, 1660; but many of his favourite preachers were compelled to quit or resign their livings. At Raby Castle, he had a dispute on religion with WiUiam Penn, who, growing consequently anxious that he should take up his resi dence in that capacity ; but he declared he durst not venture among so surly a people, and recommended the courageous Richard RothweU. The labours of that zealous individual were so successful that he obtained, amongst persons of his own denomination, the appella tion of " the Apostle of the North." In 1644, the par liament sent the Rev. John Rogers to be minister of this parish (see Curates), who held the living sixteen years, but was ejected on the Restoration of Charles II. Lord Wharton then presented him to the rectory of Croglin, in Cumberland, from whence he was ejected under the Act of Uniformity. He returned to the vil lage of Startforth, and preached in the manor-house there, which belonged to his brother-in-law, Mr. Alder man Barnes of Newcastle;! also in Darlington, Stockton, weary of the discussion, ended it by saying, "Thou knowest, Ambrose, now that Paul is dead, he can neither teU thee nor me what his mean ing was." The part he had taken in pubUc affairs brought him into the notice of government as a person whose good wUl it might be de sirable to cultivate; and King Charles II. was desirous of having him returned to parliament. His opinion of the king, however, was given on his return home, after a visit to the council, that, "as Charles II. is said very much in his person to resemble Tiberius Caesar, so did he presage, his reign would no less resemble that of Tiberius, wherein our Lord was crucified." A rumour having occurred of a great ar mament being fitted out in HoUand, Col. Widdrington, "in a huff," desired Barnes to order some guns down to Tynemouth Castle. "That is not my business," was the reply; " the king never made me governor of that castle." This, and some other circumstances rendered him unpo pular with the loyal party ; and Harry Willis, a drunken shipwright, carried his abuse to such a length in public, that Barnes was provoked to commit him to the tower on Tyne Bridge, then used as a prison. Here lay a quantity of malt, which the tipsy man shoveled out of the window into the river, singing — " 0 base mault, Thou didst the fault, And into Tyne thou shalt." When the infamous Judge Jeffreys, in the course of the northern circuit, came to Newcastle, "he would," according to the author of a MS. Life of Barnes, " drink to filthy excess till 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning, going to bed as drunk as a beast, and rising again with the symptoms of one who had drunk a cup too much. AVhen the court was sat, instead of the gravity of a tribunal, the judge, with his raileries and his jests, there acted the part of a harlequin. In his hand he held out a paper, telling the court, in a menacing manner, he had there got a black list of damn'd fannatiqs, and was resolved ta scour them. A fine was levied on Barnes,' house, but Mr. Barnes escapt. Jefferies was huge witty upon all the prisoners, but it fretted him sadly he could not catch this Barnes. " In the many occasions our author had to be abroad, if wee look't into his family at home, we might have found his house that had suffered military execution. The furniture of the kitchen and other moveables were many months hid in the hay which he kept for his horses. Not a soul durst be seen, his family fled, and when the ser geants or others knockt at the door to enquire for him, the servants when at home, ran down the back stairs and hid themselves, for fear CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 25 Teesdale, Weardale, &c. After a life of labour, perse cution, and privation, he died in 1688, aged 78.* He was intimate with Sir Henry Vane, who sometimes rode from Raby Castle to attend his preaching. An Independent congregation has existed in Bar nard Castle for many years. The Rev. — Lisle (who preached at Startforth, Cotherstone, Langley Dale, Wolsingham, and Hedley Hope), the Revds. Warden, of being hauld before the magistrates to come in evidence against their master; and his little son , a boy of eleven or twelve years of age, when aU the rest were skulking, was obliged to go to the gate, and be satisfyed who it was that knockt and what they wanted before he durst open it. " King Charles II. having trifled between Atheist, Papist, and Pro testant, was suddainly arrested by death. King James II. changeing his measures, Mr. Barnes obtained a noli prosequi for himself and ihree or four more of his friends, which, with the act of indemnity that foUowed afterwards, saved him from the utter ruin brought upon him by fines, and forfeitures of recognizances. But public persecu tion is not the onely time wherein good men must look for trouble and affliction. He buried his invaluable consort. He sustained a great loss in a ship which foundered at sea in her voyage to Virginia, and met with a much greater loss in a colliery, left in his hand by his son in law for near two thousand pound, which it was far from reim bursing. He buried a good estate in many lead mines. The case also of his daughters, who married away from him, affected him sensibly, to find them met with any baseness or unkind behaviour from any be longing to the famUies they were matcht into. An heavier blow than all this feU upon him in his old age, by the breaking of one of his sons in law, who left him involved in debts and bonds for him to answer as swept away almost aU he had in the world. But the most trying distraction of all his afflictions, was the distraction of his youngest daughter. But his faith was unconquerable : so God was but glorifyed, he was satisfy' d, bearing all the Lord's burdens with invincible patience and entire resignation. "When wet harvests, for several summers together, had occasioned great dammage to corn, and what was found was bought up and shipt off to other parts by the merchants, there grew such a scarcity, that the poor of Newcastle went about in their necessity, begging sheeps blood of the butchers, to mingle it with oatmeal and bake it, which served them for bread, instead of wholesome food, and this brought a bloody flux and mortality amongst them. Then was this gentle man's liberality like ScaUgers, who, when winter came, would buy cloth to make coats for the naked, charging his family to serve the beggars, putting them in mind how those wretched people were their brethren by nature, and being skilful in chirurgery and physic, he saved the Uves of many who were ready to perish." On the accession of King WilUam, Mr Barnes was represented to him as a person obnoxious to the government. Walking one day in Kensington gardens, the king said to a person with him, "You know the north country ; can you tell me any thing of one Barnes who lives there ?" " I know him very well," replied the gentleman, " and it please your majesty as honest a man as is in your three kingdoms." " Say you so?" cried the king, "I have his name given up to me as a very Ul man!" and immediately drew out his pocket book and ex punged the name. "Mr. Barnes, after paying a visit to the young Earl of Derwentwater (afterwards beheaded), in returning home he felt his cloak grow very heavy and cumbersome to him, and was sorely faint and weary before he reached his own house. But the Lord's supper being to be ad mi- Orel, Shield, and William Luke Prattman, were minis ters in succession. The present chapel was commenced in 1812, and finished in May, 1813, by Mr. Prattman, who, with an assistant, the Rev. J. Harrison, officiated as its minister till nearly the time of his death, since which the pastoral duties have been discharged by the Rev. James Hardman. The chapel is a neat and commodious structure, situ- nistered in the congregation the day following, he would not be hin dered from going to it." During the ceremony, he endeavoured to conceal his illness, which, however, rapidly increased ; and he died on the 23rd of March, 1710. Joseph Barnes, Esq., eldest son of the alderman, baptized April 2, 1658, was a barrister- at-law, recorder of Newcastle, and afterwards of Berwick. He died in March, 1711-2. Thomas, another son, was a minister of religion. * The Rev. John Rogers and Mrs. Tooley. — The following inte resting incident in the life of the Rev. John Rogers appears in the Christian Penny Magazine t — Sir Richard Crf dock, a justice of peace, who was a violent hater and persecutor of the Dissenters, and who exerted himself to enforce all the severe laws then in existence against them, happened to live near Mr. Rogers, to whom he bore particular enmity, and whom he wanted above all things to have in his power. Hearing that he was to preach at a place some miles distant, he thought it a fair oppor tunity for accomplishing his base design ; and in order thereto, hired two men to go as spies, and to take down the names of all the hearers whom they knew, that they might appear as witnesses against both them and Mr. Rogers. The plan seemed to succeed to his wishes. These men brought him the names of several persons who were present at the meeting, and he warned such of them as he had a par ticular spite against, together with Mr. Rogers, to appear before him. Knowing the violence of the man, they came with trembling hearts, expecting to be treated with the utmost severity. While they were waiting in the great haU, expecting to be caUed upon, a Uttle girl, about six or seven years of age, who was Sir Richard's grand-daugh ter, happened to come into the haU. She looked at Mr. Rogers, and was much taken with his venerable appearance. He, being naturally fond of children, took her upon his knee and caressed her, which occasioned her to conceive a great fondness for him. At length, Sir Richard sent a servant to inform them, that one of the witnesses; being taken ill, was unable to attend, and that, therefore, they must come again another day. They accordingly came at the time appointed ; and being convicted, the justice ordered their mittimus to be written to send them all to prison. Mr. Rogers, expecting to see the little girl again, brought some sweetmeats with him to give her. As soon as she saw him, she came running to him, and appeared fonder of him than before. This child, being aparticular favourite of her grandfather, had got such an ascend ancy over him that he could deny her nothing ; and she possessed such a violent spirit that she could bear no contradiction, so that she was indulged in every thing she wanted. At one time, when she had been contradicted, she ran a penknife into her arm, to the great danger of her life. This bad spirit, in the present instance, was over-ruled for good. While she was sitting on Mr. Rogers's knee, eating the sweetmeats, she looked earnestly at him, and asked, " What are you here for, sir ?" He answered, " I believe your grandfather is going to send me and my friends to jail." "To jail!" says she, "why, what have you done ?" "Why, I did nothing but preach, and they 26 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. ated in Hall Street, containing a gallery, and will accommodate above 500 hearers. It is duly licensed for solemnization of marriages. The register-book of births and baptisms extends from 1806 to 1837, and is kept by the minister. There is a Sunday school ad joining the chapel, attended by about 140 boys and girls. It was commenced in 1803, and is one of the earliest voluntary Sunday schools established in Bar nard Castle. Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. — The first chapel belonging to the Methodist body in Barnard Castle, was built in 1765 ; and a second one having been found too small for the increased number of hearers, the pre sent spacious edifice, with dwellings attached for the residence of the ministers, was erected in 1822. It is situated on the east side of the Bank, and will contain a congregation of above 1,000 hearers. The chapel is licensed for the solemnization of marriages. The register book, which contains births and baptisms from 1803 to 1837, is in charge of the superintendent. Above 200 children attend the Sunday school.* The Primitive Methodist Chapel, which is also licensed for marriages, was built in 1829. It stands on the Bank, and will accommodate nearly 500 persons. The Sunday school is attended by about 150 children. Unitarian Chapel. — It was not until about the year 1845 that the Unitarians of Barnard Castle formed themselves into a body. As a place of worship, they did nothing but hear me." " He shall not send you to jail," replied she, " Aye, but, my dear," said he, " I believe he is now making out our mittimus to send us all there." Upon this, she ran up to the chamber where Sir Richard was, and knocked with her head and heels tUl she got in, and said to him, " What are you going to do with my good old gentleman in the hall i" " That's nothing to you," said he, " get about your business." " But I won't," says she ; " he tells me that you are going to send him and his friends to jail ; and if you send them, I'll drown myself in the pond as soon as they are gone ; I will indeed." When he saw the chUd thus peremptory, it shook his reso lution, and induced him to abandon his malicious design. Taking the mittimus in his hand, he went down into the hall, and thus ad dressed these good men : — " I had here made out your mittimus to send you all to jaU, as you deserve ; but at my grandchild's request, I drop the prosecution, and set you all at liberty." They all bowed, and thanked his worship. But Mr. Rogers, going to the child, laid his hand upon her head, and, lifting up his eyes to heaven, said, " God bless you, my dear child ! May the blessing of that God, whose cause you did now plead, though as yet you know him not, be upon you in life, at death, and to all eternity." He and his friends then went away. The above remarkable story was told by Mr. T. Rogers, the son of the ejected minister, who had frequently heard his father relate it purchased the chapel formerly belonging to the Wes leyan Methodists, built, as is stated above, in the year 1765. They have no stipendiary minister, but main tain their religious services and preachings by lay lec turers : they have also issued various able defences of their doctrines, many of which have attained an exten sive circulation in the Unitarian community. A Sun day school is held in the chapel, attended by between 40 and 50 children. CHARITIES. St. John's Hospital. — This is said to be the hospital founded by John Baliol in 1229 ; but there is no au thentic document relative to its foundation. In 1355, Bishop Hatfield fulminated a sentence of excommunica tion against certain persons unknown, who, to the peril of their souls, detained and concealed the revenues belonging to it. It is included in the " Valor Ecclesi- asticus," made 26 Hen. VIIL (1536), and therein stated to be in the gift of the crown, and of the yearly value of £5 15s. 8d., subject to an annual payment to three poor women, to pray for the soul of the founder, of 3s. in money, and 3s. 4d. in coals. The first lease discovered is one dated 1689, granted by John Chap man, custos, for three lives. The next lease is dated 1705, granted by Peter Ferron, for three lives, at an increased rental, which is therein stated to be an im proved rent for the better accommodation of the beads women. In 1756, Dr. Browell demised the property with great pleasure ; and the celebrated Mr. Thomas Bradbury once heard it from him, when he was dining at the house of Mrs. Tooley, an eminent Christian lady in London, who was distinguished for her religion. She had listened with uncommon attention to Mr. Rogers's story ; and when he had ended it, she asked him, " And are you that Mr. Rogers's son?" He told her he was; upon which she said, " WeU, as long as I have been acquainted with you, I never knew that before. And now I will tell you something that you do not know. I am the very girl your dear father blessed in the manner you have related, and it made an impression upon me which I could never forget.'' * Mr. Layton, in the notes to his " Castle Barnard," says, "When that zealous Christian (the Rev. John Wesley) visited Barnard Castle, on his torn- through the British Isles, the enlightened townsmen, staunch registers of innovations in religion, literally threw cold water upon all his efforts to convert them ; for, bringing out the water- engine, they showered down their blessings upon his head, tUl this persecuted friend of mankind deemed it advisable to commence a re treat (or, according to the idiom Napoleon, to make a lateral mot,- mentj, in which he was pursued by the implacable enemy with their flying artillery : and not till he had fairly cleared the place, was he enabled to wash his hands of them." CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 27 for three lives, but exacted a fine of £240, the rental remaining the same as in 1705. In 1790, the Rev. William Lipscombe, custos, leased the property for three lives at the same rental, but exacted a fine of £340. On the 18th June, 1796, pro bably in consequence of some defect in the last-men tioned lease, a new one was granted by Mr. Lipscombe, in which the property is described as follows : — " The mansion houses and capital messuages belong ing to the hospital, with the barns, stables, out-houses, buildings and garth, garden and yard on the back side thereof, situate on the south side of a certain street in Barnard Castle, called Newgate Street, with another parcel of ground used as a garden, before the same, called the Tenter Garth ; and the several closes therein after mentioned, the boundaries whereof are therein respectively described, viz. The Bank Close, the Crook Close, another close called the Crook Close, theretofore divided into three, the Little Garth, the Gallgate Garth, a close called Westwick Town End Close, a close adjoining the Lowfield Inclosures and the Lowfield Lane, the Pinfold Close, the low end of the Broom Close ; and also the several allotments set out to Robert Lodge and Anthony Pearson, Martha Bass and William Hutchinson, on the division of the intercommon fields belonging to Barnard Castle, called the Crook, the Newfield, the Ings, the Lowfield, the Middlefield, and the Northfield, in lieu of certain days' work ridges and parcels of land lying in the several intercommon fields [containing in all 57 a. 1 R. 19 p.] ; and also the several allotments set out to Robert Lodge and Anthony Pear son [containing 29 a. 2r. 39 p.], on the division of the Town Pasture, in lieu of sixteen cattle-gates ; and all other houses, lands, tenements, commons, &c, to the said hospital belonging." The master or custos is appointed by the Lord Chan cellor. He has no duties to perform ; and his emolu ments arise from the same source as that of preceding masters for many years, namely, from fines received on the granting of leases for lives. By the lease just quoted, the then master, the Rev. W. Lipscombe, appointed by Lord Chancellor Thurlow in 1783, de mised to Dorothy Lodge, spinster, Thomas Bass, and Benjamin Bass, and their heirs, in consideration of the sur render of a former lease and of £141, the several estates and premises belonging to the hospital for three lives, being of the respective ages of 29, 18, and 22, subject to the yearly payment of £9 16s. 8d. annually, viz., 3s. 4d. to each of the beadswomen in the hospital on the first day of every month, and the further sum of £1 5s. at Christmas every alternate year to buy them coats or gowns, and the residue to the master, £4 10s. thereof being an improved rent for the better accommo dation of the beadswomen. An acknowledgment of 20 horse-loads of coals, or 10s. in money, having been paid beyond the memory of man out of lands at Low Huller bush, was guaranteed by the master. At the time of the Charity Commissioners' Inquiry, the parties in possession were the late Rev. W. L. Prattman, who, in right of his wife, formerly Dorothy Lodge, was entitled to about three-quarters of the property, consisting of about 60 acres of the annual value of £117; and the Misses Bass, representatives of Thomas and Benjamin Bass, who held about 27J acres, of the annual value of about £50. There were also about 2 acres, held by Charles Watson, valued at £6 or £7 per annum. On the inclosure of Barnard Castle Moor, in 1799, 62 a. 1 r. 28 p. were set out to Mrs. Prattman, and 25 A. 3 e. 19 p. to Messrs. T. and B. Bass. The hospital, or bedehouse, is a low thatched build ing, containing one room, in which two old women reside rent-free, and receive 10s. monthly between them. The appointment of a third beadswoman has been withheld for many years, to increase the stipend of the other two. The sum of £1 5s. for coats or gowns is paid to them every other Christmas ; and they also receive their annual supply of 20 horse-loads of coals from the estate of Low Hullerbush. On the death of the Rev. W. Lipscombe in 1842, a meeting of the inhabitants was held, at which a com mittee was chosen, who, with the assistance of the Duke of Cleveland, procured the appointment of the Rev. John Davidson, incumbent of Barnard Castle, to the office of master of the hospital. Mr. Davidson died in 1847; and on the 4th of November in that year, a meeting Was held in the National School, for the pur pose of petitioning the Lord Chancellor to appoint a fit and proper person as his successor. The Rev. George Dugard, incumbent, and Thomas Emerson Headlam, Esq., were nominated; and a majority voted in favour of the latter gentleman. Mr. Headlam, however, de clined to allow himself to be recommended; and sub sequently, at the instance of the Bishop of Durham, the Chancellor appointed the Rev. George Dugard to be custos. A Chancery suit was some time ago instituted, for the regulation of this long-perverted charity; and, in consequence, the past system of long leases has been forbidden by decree of the court. Upon the demise of the surviving life, Mr. Pearson, of Newcastle, on 28 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. which the leases are now held, a scheme is to be set tled for the future management of the charity. In the course of the inquiries directed during this suit, the following were ascertained to be the lands and tene ments belonging to this charity : — DESCRIPTION of property. QUANTITY. ANN. VALUE. A. R. P. £ s. d. The land above described is of equal quality with the foregoing, and near the town, but not close enough to be considered accom modation land. Carried forward 2 0 0 No. \A The Bede House and gardens on the south side of Newgate Street — an old worn-out buUding \ B A dwelling-house and office and garden, caUed Tenter Garth, adjoining on the south side of Newgate Street — an old buUding with exceUent garden 1 1 0 20 0 0 1 C A dwelUng-house, warehouse, and pre mises adjoining, on the south side of New gate Street — good substantial newly-buUt premises 15 0 0 1 B The raff-yard and garden adjoining, on the south side of Newgate Street. . 2 10 0 3 Crook Close, in the Crook 0 3 36 4 a Crook Close, in the Crook 2 1 0 4 b Crook Close, in the Crook 3 0 0 5 Galgate Garth, in the Crook 0 3 0 7 Close adjoining Lowfield inclosures. This plot of ground now forms part of the plea sure grounds to the house of Mr. Wil liam Watson, solicitor, who, I am in formed, has broken down the east fence, and taken possession of it as his own property 1 0 13 8 Pinfold Close, Newgate End 1 0 0 9 Close adjoining Lowfield Lane 0 3 0 14 AUotment at Middlefield 6 3 13 15 Ditto ditto 2 2 14 16 Ditto ditto 1 0 31 17 Ditto at the Crook 1 2 10 18 Ditto ditto 0 3 34 20 Ditto at Lowfield 2 120 26 1 11 92 0 0 All the land above described is accommoda tion land of first-rate quality, in small parcels, situate close upon the town, and therefore of great value. 2 Bank Close, East Lowfield 3 0 12 6 Westwick Town- end Close, Lowfield 2 3 35 11 Allotment at Lowfield 7 2 24 13 Ditto ditto 0 1 0 19 Ditto ditto 5 1 6 22 Ditto at the Ings 1 115 Ditto at Newfield 13 113 Ditto at Town Pasture 8 1 10 42 1 5 84 11 0 £216 1 0 DESCRIPTION OP PROPERTY. QUANTITY. ANN VALUE. A. H. F. 3i S. U, Brought forward 216 1 0 21 AUotment at the Ings 5 0 38 24 Ditto at Newfield 2 0 16 29 Ditto at the Moor 2 2 0 This land is of second-rate quality, some what wet and clayey. 10 Broom Close 12 AUotment at Northfield 26 Ditto at Town Pasture 27 Ditto ditto 9 3 14 2 3 26 6 2 14 8 1 29 13 0 0 14 12 6 30 3 29 38 19 0 Land of inferior quality, wet and clayey. 28 Allotment at the Moor 62 1 28 30 Ditto ditto 13 0 14 31 Ditto ditto 12 3 5 17 61 15 6 Poor boggy land, some distance from the town. Total value of the annual rent £331 8 0 The quantity and value of the property thus de scribed, were taken by a competent person appointed by the court. Glenton's Dole and other Charities. — John Glenton, December 3, 1578, charged his lands in Startforth with the payment of certain sums amounting to 40s. per annum, for the poor of Barnard Castle. This payment was released in 1793 for 20 years' purchase. By will, December 26, 1668, Ambrose Brunskill, Esq., gave the house in Barnard Castle, where he was born, value £5 per annum. This house having become ruinous, its site in Thorngate was let for £3 10s. a year, which rent was released for £70 in 1793. Mary Finlay, of Dar lington, widow, June 26, 1688, gave a third part of Broadgates, then producing £1 8s. yearly ; and Thomas Barker gave £5, producing 6s. per annum. The amount of these two sums was released in 1793 for 20 years' purchase. The properties enumerated in the purchase- deed were — 1. To William Benning, for £34, a rent-charge of £1 14s. out of his burgages and tenements in Broadgate. 2. To Anthony Bazin, for £11 6s. 8d., lis. 4d"out of Westwood House, Westwood Close, and Foxholes, in Startforth. 3. To Henry Ewbank, for £13 6s. 8d., his tenements in Thorngate discharged of 13s. 4d. issuing thereout. 4. To James Lonsdale, his tenements in Thorngate, discharged of 6s. 8d. thereout. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 29 5. To Benjamin Bass, 6s. 8d. rent-charge out of his tenements in Thorngate. The whole of the above purchase money, and the -proceeds from the release of Brunskill's property, amounting to £142, was laid out, with £140 raised on mortgage, in the purchase of the workhouse, on which an annual payment of £7 2s. was consequently charged. The Commissioners for inquiring concerning Charities, however, state that, from some unexplained cause, only £3 12s. a year had been paid, which was apparently exclusive of the £3 10s. from Brunskill's property. The sum paid is given away at Christmas and Easter, with the charities of Percival and others, in sums vary ing from 6d. to 2s. In the year 1840, the workhouse was sold to Mr. Bayles, subject to the above charge of £7 2s. yearly, payable on the 2nd day of February. The remaining purchase money arising from the sale of the old work house, viz., £260, was applied in partially liquidating the proportion of the township of Barnard Castle to wards the expense of building the Teesdale Union workhouse. Charities of Percival and others. — Robert Percival, merchant, of Newcastle, a native of Barnard Castle, by will, December 9, 1729, gave £40 ; Christopher Londs- dale, March 11, 1747, £40; Peter Waistell, August 29, 1752, £100; and Dame Elizabeth, widow of Sir Wil liam Bowes, in her life-time, £30 to the poor of the parish. The whole of these sums, with the exception of £10 of the latter, was laid out on July 15, 1785, in the purchase of a close in Startforth, which is let at £8 a year. This sum is divided amongst the townships in proportion to their contributions to the church-rate, viz., Barnard Castle, £4 9s. 6d. ; Streatlam and Stainton, £1 8s. 6d. ; Marwood, £1 6s. 3d. ; and Westwick, 15s. 9d. Emmerson's Charity. — The Rev. Ezra Emmerson, by will, December 25, 1733, gave £50 to be placed out at interest for the poor of Barnard Castle. This sum formed part of the purchase money of Northfield farm, Startforth, bought by the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty for the augmentation of the living of Barnard Castle ; and £2 10s. is paid by the incumbent on ac count thereof, and distributed with other charities as above. Sanderson' s Charity. — William Sanderson, Esq., by will, 175--, devised to William Hutchinson, Esq., and Christopher Lonsdale, Gent., his land in Barnard Cas tle, called the Crook, in trust for two poor men of Barnard Castle and one of Eggleston, to receive and take the profits thereof to their respective uses for their natural lives, and, after their deaths, to such other three poor men as should be named and appointed to succeed them. The two recipients of this charity be longing to Barnard Castle are elected by the vicar of Gainford, the rector of Romaldkirk, and the rector of Middleton-in-Teesdale, and the one out of the township of Eggleston is nominated by the latter rector. Care is taken to select those who have been in better circum stances, but reduced to poverty. The lands described formed part of the common fields, divided and enclosed under an act 23 Geo. III. ; the Barnard Castle portion consisting of two plots of 3 acres each, now let by the vestrymen at £20 rent ; and the Eggleston share, con taining 2 a. 3 r. 27 p., let by the poor man himself at £9 15s, Under the act 35 Geo. III., for enclosing and allotting Barnard Castle Moor, 8 A. 2 R. 33 p. were set out in three plots " to the trustees of Sanderson's charity," and are let together at £8 a year. From the rents of the Barnard Castle share, and two-thirds of the allotments, the overseer allows 4s. 6d. a week to two poor persons of the township, amounting to £23 8s. per annum. In order to defray the expense of the inclosure, in 1783, £20 was advanced by William Hutchinson, Esq., being part of a sum of money left by Lord Vane and Mr. Hutchinson's father for the use of the poor ; in respect of which the tenant pays (in addition to the rent) 13s. 4d. annually, and the Eggleston poor man 6s. 8d. The Barnard Castle portion is also subject to a yearly payment of lis. lid., and the Eggleston portion to 5s. lid., for Acre Money, vested in the church wardens and overseers of the poor of Barnard Castle. According to the act of parliament, passed in 1783, for enclosing the open fields within the township of Bar nard Castle, certain payments called Acre Money are chargeable for ever on the different allotments, in lieu of winter eatage ; unless the same are bought at 25 years' purchase, according to the following rates, viz. 6d. for every cattle gait on the town pasture ; Is. 6d. per acre for the Low field, Middle field, North field, the Ings, and the New field ; and 2s. per acre for the Crook. Until such Acre Money is purchased, it is to be vested in the churchwardens and overseers of the poor of Barnard Castle for the time being, and by them to be collected from the occupier of each allotment, and applied in reduction of the poor rates, together with the interest of the money paid by the proprietors for the redemption of the Acre Money chargeable on their respective lands. At the time of the Commissioners' Inqniry, there was nearly £1,000 three per cent, con- DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. sols derived from this source, the interest of which, and the Acre Money then payable, amounted to between £50 and £60 per annum. At present, the unredeemed Acre Money of the Town Fields (see below) amounts to £22 16s. 9d. The list, containing the quantity and amount paid by each person, was revised and printed in 1843, and is publicly exhibited in the Town Hall. There is now £975 14s. 8d. invested in the three per cents, producing £29 5s. 6d. dividend. Waste Lands. — By the act 35 Geo. III., above alluded to, it was enacted that Barnard Castle Moor, containing by estimation 6,000 acres ; the Little Moor, 40 acres ; and Glenton Green and the Baiting Steads, 20 acres, should be sold, and that out of the proceeds the commissioners, Arthur Mowbray, Joseph Grainger, and John Bradford, Esqrs., should, in the first place, pay all the costs of surveying and selling the same, and of making a high road through the Little Moor ; that the mortgage on the poor-house should be discharged, in lieu of which the overseers should pay £6 per annum to the minister, churchwardens, and vestrymen; and that the remainder of the money should be placed in the funds, and the interest, with the £6 above-men tioned, distributed to such poor persons, male and female, as the lord of the manor or his agent, the minis ter, churchwardens, and vestrymen, and twelve other respectable inhabitants should think fit; such poor per sons not receiving alms or parish relief, and so as no one should receive more than £5 in any one year ; and it was provided that the oldest poor persons resident within the said township should be preferred, if other wise proper objects of the charity. The boundaries of the lands were perambulated on the 15th Juue, 1795; and the general award of the commissioners was pub lished May 14, 1799.* The net produce of the sale was invested in the purchase of £^,314 3s. lOd. stock in the three per cent, consols, in the names of the minister and churchwardens ; and out of the dividends, £69 8s. 6d., and the £6 above mentioned, £5 per an num is paid to each of eight poor men, £4 per annum to each of eight poor women, and the remaining £3 8s. 6d. to one old man, the last elected. Dent's Charity. — John Dent the elder, of Bright- well, Berkshire, clock-maker, on April 29 and 30, 1706, assigned to trustees certain premises in Stepney for the education of poor boys born in the town of Barnard * One-sixteenth of the soil and the mines were reserved to the Earl of Darlington, as 'lord of the manor. There was allotted to Bar nard Castle 2,698 a. 2k. 5 p. ; Streatlam and Stainton, 733 a. 3r. 44 p. ; Langley Dale, 29 a. 3 r. 14 p. ; Eggleston, 40 A. 3 r. 38 p. ; and Marwood Park, 1,140 a. 2 R. 2 p ; total, 4,644 acres. Castle. Previous to 1749, the sum of £133, raised by the sale of those premises, had been placed at interest, and is now in the hands of Benjamin Lee, Esq., who pays £5 6s. 4d. interest. This sum is paid to the treasurer of the National School; and ten poor children, nominated by the minister and churchwarden, are taught free of charge. Charities of Lord Vane and W. Hutchinson. — Wil liam Hutchinson, Esq., on July 30, 1718, gave £20 to the poor of Barnard Castle ; and William Lord Vane, Viscount Duncannon, bequeathed £50 to the same purpose. These two sums form what is called the Wi dow's Bread Fund. For the first sum, in respect of which £1 per annum is received as interest, see Sander son's Charity. The other £50 is in the hands of Mr. Hutchinson, of Eggleston, who pays £2 2s. yearly as interest. Seven twopenny loaves are provided every Sunday, and given to seven poor widows attending divine service, who are selected by the minister and churchwardens. Hutton 's Charity. — Matthew Hutton, Gent., by will, November 19, 1726, directed his executors to lay out £120 in the purchase of lands and tenements, the profits and rents thereof to be disposed of in buying bread, to be distributed every Sunday, immediately after divine service, amongst the poorer sort of housekeepers or other poor people of the town of Barnard Castle. In October of the year 1730, two closes in Startforth, called Morton Gill Leazes and the Little Moor, con taining respectively 10 and 4 acres, were purchased with this money ; and an allotment was since added, making 18a. 2r. 7p., including li acres of underwood. A small cottage has lately been built on the property; and the whole is now let to David Scott at the rent of £25 a year. In conformity with Mr. Hutton's will, the value of a proportion of this money is distributed every Sunday, to 30 poor people, in bread. The following is an abstract of the charities (exclu sive of St. John's Hospital) belonging to Barnard Castle : — Ann. Amount. William Sanderson, Esq., for two poor men - £23 8 0 Erom waste lands, for nine poor men and eight poor women - --. .... 75 86 Matthew Hutton, Esq,, bread for the poor ... 25 0 0 Viscount Vane, and William Hutchinson, Esq., bread for seven poor widows -- ...... 320 Rev. Ezra Emmerson, for the poor - - - 2 10, 0 Glenton's Dole and other charities, do. ----- 720 Charities of Percival and others, do. ..... 800 Mr. John Dent, educating ten poor boys .... 564 £149 16 10 CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 31 Township of Streatlam and Stainton. — John Bowes, Earl of Strathmore, by will, July 3, 1817, di rected that £25 a year should be charged upon his Streatlam estate, for the poor of the township. No distribution, however, has ever been made in respect of this legacy. TEESDALE UNION. The poor-rates in Barnard Castle, under the old poor- law, were subject to great fluctuations. In 1816, the rate amounted to £1,651 9s. ; and in the following year, to £2,788 lis. In 1820, it was £2,198 9s., but fell, in 1821, to £1,547 17s. A rate of 7s. 6d. in the pound, in 1832, produced £2,300. The poor-house (see Cha rities) was situated on the Mains, with a kitchen garden attached, and contained three looms and a warping mill, for the employment of such as were able to work.* , The Teesdale Union, formed under the provisions of the New Poor Law Act, is divided into three sub- districts, viz., Staindrop, Barnard Castle, and Middle ton-in-Teesdale. The Staindrop subdistrict contains the parish of Cockfield, including the townships of Cockfield and Woodland ; Staindrop parish, including Langley Dale and Shotton, Raby and Keverston, Staindrop, Wacker- field, Hilton, and Ingleton; part of Gainford parish, including Morton Tynemouth, Langton, Headlam, Gainford, and Cleatlam ; Winston parish ; and the township of Barforth, in Forcett parish, West Gilling wapentake, North Riding of Yorkshire. The Barnard Castle subdistrict contains the township of Ovington, or Ovingham, in Forcett parish ; the parish of Wycliffe ; the township of Hutton Magna, in the parish of that name ; the townships of Barningham, Scargill, and Hope, in the parish of Barningham ; the parish of Brignall ; the parish of Rokeby ; the parish of Startforth, including the townships of Startforth with Eggleston Abbey, and Boldron ; the parish of Bowes, including the townships of Bowes and Gillmanby ; and Lartington, in the parish of Romaldkirk, all in the * During a storm of thunder and lightning, Sept. 2, 1824, the electric fluid passed down one of the chimneys of this establishment. It came out of the fire-place of the first story; and though some old men were sitting round the fire, it did not hurt them, except striking one deaf a little time. It then proceeded to the next room, tore the plas tering from the wall, ploughed up the boards for two yards or more, and passed under the feet of an old woman who was sitting on an iron bedstead, yet did her no harm. Having descended to the lower story, it played round the room in the most astonishing manner, leaving VOL. II. North Riding of Yorkshire ; with part of the parish of Gainford, including the townships of Whorlton, West wick, Barnard Castle, Stainton with Streatlam, and Marwood. The Middleton subdistrict includes the remainder of Romaldkirk parish, comprising the townships of Cother- ston, Hunderthwaite, Romaldkirk, Mickleton, Lune- dale, and Holwick ; and Middleton-in-Teesdale parish, including the townships of Middleton-in-Teesdale, Eg- glestone, Newbiggin, and Forest with Frith. The entire union comprises an area of 174,162 acres, of which 95,297 are in Yorkshire. The population, on the Yorkshire side of the Tees, in 1851, was 5,662, consisting of 2,776 males and 2,886 females ; and in Durham, there were 7,021 males and 7,130 females, or 14,151 on the Durham side. Thus, the entire popula tion of the union was 19,813. The expenditure of the townships forming this union averaged, during the three years preceding its forma tion in 1847, £7,812 per annum. The following is the yearly expenditure (exclusive of the cost of building the workhouse) since that period, as shewn in yearly financial reports, printed and circulated by the board of guardians : — ending March £ s. d. Year ending March £ s. d. 1838 . 4976 2 9 1847 4963 3 4 1839 . .... 5338 12 0 1848 ...... 4717 10 10 1840 . 5343 9 2 1849 4720 3 5 1841 . 6216 16 0 1850 5198 3 5 1842 . 5285 1 3 1851 4407 17 1 1843 . 5652 4 6 1852 4065 8 9 1844 . 5285 1 11 1853 4183 11 8 1845 . 5497 8 2 1854 4171 8 4 1846 . 5324 10 7 The workhouse is situated in Galgate, and admits 160 inmates on a fourfold system of classification. It has a fever ward and a vagrant, ward attached. The children are educated in the National School of the town. In addition to the above expenditure, the guardians have laid out in this and other buildings, during the above years, about £3,500. A building debt on the workhouse is now entirely liquidated. Dietary Table, — The following " amended dietary marks of its power. From thence it went through the wall into the back kitchen, where it knocked one man down ; and though the mis tress of the house and a girl were nearly in a line with it, they only felt its effects a few hours. A person in the kitchen said he dis tinctly saw it go out of the door in the form of a ball of fire. When the master went into the rooms to look after the old people, the sul phur was so strong that he could scarcely enter ; and although above 20 persons were in the house at the time, providentially none were matei ially hurt. DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. table" for the paupers in the workhouse was adopted by the guardians on the 4th of January, 1854, and re ceived the sanction of the Poor Law Board on the 20th February following : — Breakfast. — Men, 1 pint of coffee sweetened, and milk, with 8 oz. of bread. ¦ , Women, coffee as the men, with 6 oz. of bread. Dinners. — Sunday and Thursday, men, 6 oz. of cooked meat, with 1 lb. of potatoes or other vegetables ; women, 5 oz. of meat, with 1 lb. of potatoes, &c. Mon day and Friday, men, \\ pint of hash or peas or other soup, 4 oz. of bread, and 1 lb. of potatoes or other ve getables ; women, hash and vegetables same as men, with 3 oz. of broad. Tuesday, men, 4 oz. of bread, and 1£ pint of boiled rice milk, sweetened with sugar or treacle; women, 3 oz. of bread, and boiled rice, &c, same as men. Wednesday and Saturday, men and women, 14 oz. of suet pudding with treacle sauce. Suppers. — Sunday and Thursday, men, 8 oz. of bread, and 1J pint of broth; women, 6 oz. of bread, and 1 pint of broth. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednes day, men 1J pint, and women 1 pint of oatmeal por ridge, with 1 gill of milk or 1 oz. of treacle and water. On Friday and Saturday, in lieu of supper, 1J pint of broth for men, and 1 pint for women, is added to the dinner. The aged and infirm are, at the discretion of the guardians, allowed at supper, in lieu of the oatmeal porridge or bread and broth at that meal, half an oz. of tea, together with 4 oz. of butter and 4 oz. of sugar per week. At the like discretion, f lb. of prepared peas pudding may be substituted for potatoes occasionally on Sundays and Thursdays, and 1^ pint of milk and oatmeal porridge substituted for any breakfast or sup per meal. Children under 9 years of age are dieted at discretion ; above 9 and under 16, they are allowed the same quantities as women. * The whole of the population on the banks of the Tees, above Barnard Castle, says Mr. M. A. Denham, " are designated Hee-landers (that is, Highlanders) by the lower orders of the masculine gender in the above-named town, between whom and their more eivUized neigh bours a deadly, or at least an extremely pugnacious and bloody feud, has existed far beyond the period of living memory. The writer re collects, once upon a time, being eye-witness to one of those periodi cal uproars, which generally occurred at every fair and hiring holden at Barnard Castle ; and being at that period only a young youth, he was, he full well remembers, most dreadfully alarmed ! The Barnard Castle tammy- weavers were, however, no match for the stout, healthy, brawny lads of Mickleton and Middleton, Forest and Frith ; it being a well- known fact that it was no uncommon occurrence to see from at least three, to as many as six tammy-weavers, all set, Uke as many butchers' dogs, upon one Hee-lander, who, notwithstanding the serious MARKETS, FAIRS, COURTS, &c. A market is held in Barnard Castle every Wednesday during the year ; and annual fairs take place on Easter and Whit- Wednesdays, for pedlery, &c, and on Mag dalen eve and day, for horses, cattle, and sheep. The Easter and Magdalen fairs,* which had fallen into disuse for many years, were, after several fruitless attempts, revived in 1850, when a communication was received from the Duke of Cleveland, lord of the manor, announcing that his grace had con sented to waive his claim of tolls upon all animals exhi bited. Since that time, the boundaries of the fair are perambulated, on each occasion, by the jury and bailiff of the manor court, accompanied by the constables of the township, armed with battle-axes and other ancient weapons, and preceded by a band of music. The shows of cattle and horses, and the attendance of buyers and sellers at both fairs, are good. A foitnightly fair for cattle is also held on alternate Wednesdays. The tolls of the fairs and markets are farmed nnder the Duke of Cleveland. The borough was anciently governed by the lord's immediate officers, and courts were regularly held be fore their stewards. f In 1621, Sir Talbot Bowes, Knt., was steward for the crown. In the orders, commencing the 21st of October in that year, the following occur : — " The farmers of the common bakehouse shall have 2d. for every bushell, instead of as heretofore three halfpence and a service worth a halfpenny." — " Whereas hereto fore men of turbulent spirits and evill disposed have commenced divers actions and suits in high and forraine courts for small and trivial causes, — ordered, that ail trespasses shall be settled by two persons elected of the jury, or else by fower honest men dwelling within the burrow, who shall assesse the damage; and if the party trespased on refuse, &c, he shall commence his odds against him, often proved the conqueror ! Occasionally, when the Barney- Cassellers could muster sufficiently powerful, they used to visit Middleton on a fair day, where their temerity generally met its due reward ; for they invariably returned home not only worsted, buj covered with blood and bruises, and occasionaUy, also, with broken bones !— Although an occasional outbreak may now take place once in the course of two or three years. I am happy to say that (iu the middle of the nineteenth century) a more quiescent spirit is possessing itself of the Barney-Casscl and Teesdale bodies, and these semi-feudal outbreaks are fast wearing away." f " His Highnesse Court Leet and Court Baron held at Bar nard Castle, the day of , anno D'ni 1627, for the Rt. HonW" Sir Henry Vane, Knight, Controuler of his Majestie's Household, and of his Majties Most Honble privy Councell ; Marke Shafto, Esq., High Steward." — Surtees. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. S3 suite for the trespass in this his Majestie's Burrow Court, and in no other forraine court, if the trespass so assessed do not exceed the sum in which this his Highness Burrow Count can hold plea, on paine of 39s. lid. April 6, 1627." — " None to buy any wood, either green or dry, which is stolen : for every burthen forfeit to the lord of the manor, 3s. 4d." April 11, 1634. " Noe person or persons whatsoever doe henceforth scolde one another, on payne of 6s. 8d." April 15, 1637. "None to suffer any corne to be sold within their houses by foreigners before the ringing of the corne-bell; payne 6s. 8d." — "No tanners to buy any neate-hydes on the market-day till the same be layd forth in the usual place ; payne 3s. 4d. Noe glovers, shoemakers, or tanners to sett forth any ware till the ringing of the tollbooth-bell. No walker or fuller shall combe or raise any cloth with woolen cards; payne 3s. 4d. No bleacher shall put any lyme to the bleach ing of cloth ; payne 3s. 4d. None that hath any egress or outgates, to suffer goods or wares to be carried forth to defraud thetowler; payne 12d." — "The constables shall provide weights and measures according to the king's standard, to be kept in the toolbooth, that all having cause to use them may repair unto them." — " It is ordained that the constables do yearly, at the com'on charge of the towne, keep a crow-nett, and see the same employed for the destruction of crows and vermine, according to the statute, upon paine of xs." — " The constable shall yearly, at the head Court at Michael- mass, bring the common armour, crow-nets, and all other things, &c, to the toolbooth to be viewed by the jury." — " No inhabitants of this burrowe shall suffer any single woman, except their hired servants, to dwell in any of their houses, except she be such as by age, sickness, or other impediment, is not able to worke or make service ; payne xs." Other orders relate to carry ing fire in the streets, and placing straw near a fire place. An order is inserted against the entertainment of any "strainger or forainer as inmates or under- settlers ;" and a list of sub-tenants was to be furnished, "that such persons as are not able to maintain them selves may be knowne, and such order taken as the town or com'on may be eased, and no way pestered, on payne 3s. 4d." — " No constable of this burrow, upon making any affray, blood-shedding, or weapons drawne, shall not suffer such a person to departe forth of his Highness House, untill he find security for his peace, and find a sufficient man to answer his Highness Court for blood, 3s. 4d." — " None to call another theefe, rogue, villain, or words of defamac'on that will bear action at common law, and cannot prove them; pain 6s. 8d." Sept. 30, 1639 " No butcher shall hereafter kill any bull but two years old or above, untill he be first brought to the ring to be sufficiently baited ; pain xs." Sept. 27, 1653. " Ordered, that with the consent of the Rt. HonDle Sir Henry Vane and his learned steward, that, whereas there is a passage made out of Barnard Castle moate, and a way made which hath not been of old into the Flatts, and the tenants and farmers of the Flatts is thereby damnified; whoever shall goe that way shall pay, toties quoties, for a horseman 3s. 4d.> and Is. for a footman." Sept. 20, 1655. "No person shall make any building or lay any rubbidge that may doe harme to the castle wall, or the ground within the walls ; pain 2s. 6d." May 12, 1674. " No person shall keep any unrea sonable mongrell doggs or mastiffs unmuzzled in the street ; pain 3s. 4d." Oct. 29, 1707. "Whereas the town of Barnard Castle hath been anciently reputed for tanning of good leather, and for preservation of the same ; ordered, that no tanner sell, stall, or expose any bellies or wombs of hides not well and sufficiently tanned and dressed; pain 5s." 1712-13. " Whereas there has been complaint that some of the former Grand Juries have revealed their fellows' secrets, which is not only a breach of their oath, [but] which often makes heart-burnings among the neighbours, therefore, &c. ; pain. 13s. 4d." The Court Baron of the Duke of Cleveland is held in October every year : Mr. Binning, of Staindrop, is the present steward. The Police Station is situated in Hall Street. Petty Sessions are held on the first Wednesday of every month, at which the Rev. George Dugard, T. S. Edger, M.D., William John Sawry Morritt, Esq., of Rokeby Park, and other magistrates, attend. The Barnard Castle County Court for the recovery of small debts comprises in its district Cleatlam, Cockfield, Eggleston, Forest and Frith (with Harwood), Gainford, Headlam, Hilton, Ingleton, Langley Dale and Shot- ton, Langton, Marwood, Middleton-in-Teesdale, Mor ton Tynemouth, Raby and Keverstone, Staindrop, Streatlam with Stainton, Wackerfield, Whorlton, Win ston with Newsham, and Woodland. Assistant clerks, Messrs. Watson ; deputy bailiff, John Lax. On the passing of the Reform Bill, Barnard Castle was appointed one of the polling places for the Southern 34 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Division of the county of Durham. It is the centre of a revising barrister's district, which includes the follow ing townships : — Barnard Castle, Cleatlam, Cockfield, Gainford, Headlam, Hilton. Ingleton, Langley Dale and Shotton, Langton, Lynesack and Softley> Marwood, Morton Tyneniouth, Raby and Keverston, Staindrop' Streatlam and Stainton, Waekerneld, Westwick, Whorlton, Winston (including Newsham), and Woodland. After the Durham militia was disbanded at the peace, the staff was stationed at Barnard Castle ; and the an nual musters of the South Durham militia are now held at this place.* (See vol. i., page 156.) MANUFACTURES, TRADE, &c. The chief trades formerly carried on in Barnard Castle were tanning, dyeing, and stocking weaving. Flax- spinning by machinery was commenced by Mr. Tho mas Porthouse, who afterwards removed to Coatham * Captain Robert Kipling. — This veteran soldier enlisted into the 43rd light infantry as a private in 1772, having previously served three years in the Durham Militia. He was with the regiment at the battle of Bunker's Hill, and through the whole of the ten years Ame rican war. Having by his merits raised himself to the rank of captain, he was allowed tn sell his commission ; but was appointed, at his wish, extra recruiting officer, which service he performed for many years. On his retirement, he received a sword with the following inscription on the blade and the scabbard : — " To Capt. Robert Kipling, this sword is presented by his brother officers, as a small token of their sincere regard, and of the high sense they entertain of his meritorious services during a period of thirty-five years, in the different ranks of private, corporal, sergeant, sergeant-major, adjutant, ensign, lieute nant, and captain in his majesty's 43rd light infantry regiment." He died at Barnard Castle, where he had for some time resided, on the 2d of December, 1830. f In the great flood of 1771, the water penetrated into some cellars occupied by a dyer at the south end of the bridge. A few pieces of tammies were in the kettle at the time, receiving their last process ; but the operator, not chusing to run the risk of destruction by at tempting to remove them, retreated with the utmost celerity. After the torrent had subsided, the man with great anxiety visited the ket tle ; when, on removing the sand and mud, the pieces were found to have attained a colour beyond his most sanguine expectations. The articles were sent to London, and gave such satisfaction that orders were forwarded for a further supply of the same shade ; but the un lucky dyer, not being again assisted by the Genius of the river, failed in every subsequent attempt to produce it. J It is a rule in this trade to take boys as apprentices at 14 years of age, upon the understanding that the boy shall allow to his master 25 per cent, out of his earnings ; and, taking the earnings at an average of 8s. per week for the first three years, and 12s.~ per week for the re maining four years, assuming the time worked to average 40 weeks a vear, it follows that the boy pays a premium of £36 for learning his business. The difficulties and grievances of the workmen generally were explained in the following letter from two of the body to the su perintending inspecter of the General Board of Health :— - " 1st, That they believe irregular employment to be one great cause of both the moral and physical degradation of large numbers of their Mundeville. The woollen trade, which had been then established, began to decline in 1790. A little cotton trade was also carried on for a few years ; and, in the early part of the present century, the manufacturing of carpets was commenced by Mr. Thomas Crampton, who was for some time very successful, and realized a hand some competency. In the latter part of his life, however, reverses in business took place, and he eventually died in the workhouse. During Mr. Crampton's prosperity, several other establishments were commenced in the same line ; and, for many years, the staple manufacture of the town has been that of carpets, in imitation of those made at Brussels and Kidderminster, in the dyeing of which the wa.ters of the Tees were formerly supposed to impart a peculiar brilliancy of colour, f The business is now carried on in Barnard Castle by Messrs. Joshua C. Monkhouse and Sons, of Thorngate Mill, who employ a considerable number of workmen.* In the body, who are often out of employment from two to six days, and in some cases even longer; and owing to there being no place of public amusement, the time is too often spent in public houses, where both old and young come in contact with the worst characters, which in the end leads to the ruin of numbers. Again, after having stood so long for a warp, we are obliged to work very long hours (often from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.), which, with the scanty fare we are obliged to subsist on in con sequence of being so long out of work, tends very much to the injury of our physical constitution. There is, however, another cause for long hours besides our own necessities, — orders often come in, and the tune is so short, that it is impossible to execute them without working through the whole night ; the loom is thus kept going by two men, the one relieving the other at stated times. This system is acted on in very many shops in the carpet trade, and is most injurious to the health of those engaged in it, producing disease of a serious nature. We believe competition to be the cause of this ; some merchants will go to the shop where they know the goods can be produced in a short time, and we believe a more ruinous system of competition is not car ried on in any district than our employers, Messrs. Monkhouse and Sons, have had to contend with ; for, in addition, they have had to contend against parties in this town who have carried on a system of prolonged and even life apprenticeships. " In those districts where long hours, and shift or night work has been given up, the practice has proved beneficial both to the employer and employed ; no orders are taken where shift work is required, and consequently, every man sticks to his own loom; the work is regular, and therefore better wages earned. ' A public play-ground and baths are much wanted ; the one would keep parties from the ale-house, the other tend to personal cleanliness. Again, juvenile intemperance, we do think, ought to be stopped, by prohibiting the ale-house keepers from harbouring youths ; a practice, which, we are sorry to say, is carried on to a great extent, and is the cause of great immorality and wickedness, gambling, &c. We would also suggest the propriety of obliging apprentices to attend a school after work hours until they arrive at the age of 17 or 18 ; and this, we think, might be done by making it part of the agreement between their employers and parents ; and for the purpose of encouraging the youths themselves, prize, might be distributed at the end of their apprentice- shrp to those who had been most attentive scholars, most industrious at work, and of the best moral character. In conclusion, we hope the CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 35 great industrial display in 1851, this firm exhibited carpets of Kidderminster fabric, cumber and point styles, and Dutch fabric carpets, warp made from silk noils. An extensive manufacture of shoe thread is carried on by Messrs. Ullathorne and Longstaff, at the Bridge End and in Marwood. Messrs. Steele, tanners and curriers, have also a large establishment. Barnard Castle contains a number of smiths, machine-makers, joiners, braziers, and other mechanics. There are several corn- mills in the town and vicinity. The principal streets contain many good shops, belonging to grocers, flour- dealers, drapers, &c. ; and there are three printing offices. The newspaper now called The Darlington and Stock ton Times was commenced at this town in 1847, and removed to Darlington in 1848. There are in the township several wine, spirit, and porter merchants, a brewery, 28 licensed inns and public-houses, four beer- shops, and a spirit-bar.* The bank of Messrs. Backhouse and Co., of Dar lington, Mr. J. C. Monkhouse, manager; the Darlington District Banking Company, Mr. Thomas Caldwell, manager; and the National Provincial Bank of England, Mr. George Pippet, manager, have each a branch in the Market Place, Barnard Castle. There are branches of several fire and life insurance companies in the town. A Savings Bank was established April 13, 1816. In 1832, the total amount deposited was between £9,000 and £10,000. Since that time, the numberof depositors and the sums deposited have gradually increased. In the report for 1854, T. Richardson, Esq., actuary, there were 530 depositors, and four charitable societies ; the amount being £15,080 lis. 5d., with a surplus fund of £250, making a total of £15,330 lis. 5d. The de positors were — 8 under £1 24 al )OV e £40 ai id und er£50 84 above £ I and under £5 39 II 50 n 75 82 „ 5 10 30 II 75 ii 100 64 „ 10 15 10 II 100 ii 125 33 „ 15 20 6 11 125 n 150 85 „ 20 30 6 „ 150 n 200 54 „ 30 40 1 II 200 above statements and suggestions wUl not be considered by you in trusive, coming as they do from operative carpet- weavers, to one en gaged in the inquiry into the condition of the working classes. (Signed) "H. Mackay, " To W. Banger. " W. Baker." " It was assuned by Mr. Ranger, superintending inspector of the Board of Health, that the average expeuditure of the Ucensed public DARLINGTON AND BARNARD CASTLE RAILWAY. Since the opening of the Stockton and Darlington Railway, and more especially since the success of that undertaking has been established, the want of a similar means of access to the town of Barnard Castle has been severely felt; and between the years 1833 and 1845, efforts were made by the inhabitants of that town to attain the desired object. In the latter year, the Duke of Cleveland consented to the formation of the Northern Counties Union Railway, which included a line from Barnard Castle to Bishop Auckland; but the act of par liament which was obtained for that undertaking was never carried out, partly owing to the state of the money market, and partly to dissensions in the directory. Early in 1852, this act being about to expire by effluxion of time, another effort was made to obtain a branch railway from some of the leading trunk lines. A com pany for a railway between Barnard Castle and Darlington was organized, and registered provisionally pursuant to 7 and 8 Vict., cap. 110, with a capital of £80,000, in £4,000 shares of £20 each. The original provisional directors were, the Rev. Thomas Witham, Lartington Hall ; Owen Longstaff, Richard Dunn, Joshua C. Monkhouse, John Steele, Isaac Cape Cust, and John Dickenson Holmes, Etsqrs., Barnard Castle ; Henry Pease, Joseph Whitwell Pease, Alfred Kitchinge, Robert Thompson, John H. Bowman, Thomas Mac- Nay, and John Buckton, Esqrs., Darlington; Morley Headlam, Esq., Wycliffe ; and Mark Sherlock, Esq., Middleton. Mr. George Brown acted as secretary. The objects and nature of the undertaking were thus described in the prospectus issued : — " The railway is intended to commence by a junction with the Stockton and Darlington Railway, a short distance to the west of that company's passenger station at Darlington, passing near to Pierce bridge, Gainfoi d, Alwent, Winston, and Newsham, to the north side of Galgate Street, B arnard Castle. " The line will be sixteen miles in length, with very favourable curves and gradients, admitting of the traffic being wrought with the greatest economy and dispatch by locomotive power. It will be a single line, constructed on economical principles, and remarkably free from heavy works. " The cost of construction, including rails, sidings, stations, land, engineering, parliamentary and law expenses, and a liberal allowance houses amounts to £4 per week, and at the beer-houses £2 ; and omit ting the spirit-shop, and allowing a moiety of the above sums to be expended by non-resident parties attending the market, it follows that the annual expenditure in the above-named houses, by the inhabitants alone, amounts to about £3,328. It has also been stated that the average consumption of tobacco in the town alone amounts to 6,729 lb. per annum. Estimating this quantity at 3s. 8d. per lb., a further annual expenditure for stimulants of £1,233 is given. 36 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. for contingencies, has been estimated by the engineer at £77,191 ; and there is every reason to believe, from the configuration of the country, that this sum wUl be ample. " The proposed raUway wUl pass from Darlington up a rich and fertile country, and will afford every facUity to the important villages on the route, is within a short distance of Staindrop, and terminates in the town of Barnard Castle, which contains important manufac tories, and is one of the best market towns in the North of England. It wUl extend to the borders of upper Teesdale, receiving the traffic from its numerous lead mines, together with ironstone, freestone, limestone, slates and flags, which abound, and require only raUway communication to convey them to maiket, and augment the produc tion of this extensive district. A large coal traffic may be expected, not only from the population upon and contiguous to the line, but from the inhabitants of the eastern part of Westmoreland, who, now have recourse to cart conveyance to obtain a supply of the Durham coal, and who wUl then be able to resort for this article to the depots at Barnard Castle." Resolutions in approval of the scheme were adopted at a meeting of the inhabitants of the town and district, held in the Witham Testimonial, November 3, 1852 ; and a bill for the construction of the railway was intro duced into parliament in 1853. But the scheme not having met with the approval of the Duke of Cleveland, one of the greatest landholders in the district, it was opposed before a committee of the House of Commons, H. Baillie, Esq., chairman, during a prolonged sitting of ten days ; one of the objections being that the width upon which it was proposed to make the formation level of the railway was only 15 feet, and consequently unsafe.* The bill was ultimately rejected. In the mean time, the project of a railway from Bar nard Castle to Bishop Auckland was revived (see vol. i., p. 565). The York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway Company, the West Hartlepool Harbour and Railway Company, and the Sunderland Dock Company, though having distinct interests, united in giving their support to this line, and each took powers to subscribe £30,000 towards carrying out the undertaking, which was further supported by petitions from Durham, New castle, Sunderland, and Hartlepool, from the bishop and the dean and chapter, and from numerous persons on the line ; and it was also urged in its favour that it rendered probable an extension of the line westward, * A petition from the trustees of turnpike roads and the surveyors of public highways, in the district, showed that the proposed railway would cross the several turnpikes and roads at the places foUowing, on a level, namely— the public highway from Coekerton to Harrow- gate, in the township of Coekerton ; the turnpike from Darlington to West Auckland, in the said township of Coekerton (by the same road being raised 10 feet by an embankment) ; the turnpike from Cocker- ton to Staindrop, in the township of High Coniscliffe ; the turnpike from Piercebridge to West Auckland, partly in the township or hamlet of Carlbury, and partly in the township of Piercebridge ; the turnpike from Stockton to Barnard Castle, in the said township of so as to form a direct communication between Sunder land on the east and Liverpool on the west coasts. On the other hand, in the opinion of the promoters of the original measure, as expressed in a memorial to the Duke of Cleveland from the Stockton Chamber of Commerce, such a railway as that from Barnard Castle to Darlington " would confer great benefits upon the port of Stockton ; whilst a line of railway from Barnard Castle to Auckland by Haggerleazes would tend to divert the traffic from the ports of the Tees (the natural sources and out lets of the commerce of the Tees valley, and much of the southern division of the county of Durham) to the ports of the Wear and the Tyne." A committee was also formed in Barnard Castle, November 8, 1853, to oppose the Auckland line, which was described as " un likely to remunerate shareholders, and inconvenient and circuitous in its route to the main line of communica tion (viz., the York, Newcastle, and Berwick railway), and to the natural ports of the district, and for these and other reasons is not only not adapted to meet the wants of this town, but likely to prove injurious to its interests." At the meeting at which this proceeding took place, it was announced that the opposition of the Duke of Cleveland had been withdrawn. Both projects came before a select committee of the House of Commons, consisting of Mr. T. Egerton, Lord Lovaine, Mr. Adderley, Mr. Lochkart, and Mr. A'Court After hearing evidence on the Barnard Castle and Auck land line, they proceeded with that on the Darlington and Barnard Castle railway on the 30th of March, 1854. Their sittings were continued on the following day, and on the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 7th of April, during which the witnesses examined were, T. E. Headlam, Esq., M.P. for Newcastle ; the Rev. T. Witham ; Joshua C. Monk- house, Esq. ; William Ullathorne, Esq., of London ; Mr. Tarn, of London ; Mr. John Badcock, and Mr. Joseph Dixon, of Barnard Castle ; Mr. John Wright- son, coach proprietor, Darlington ; Mr. Thomas Harri son, carrier, Barnard Castle ; Mr. John Anderson, of Middlesborough, contractor; Isaac Wilson, Esq., of the firm of Gilkes, Wilson, and Co., of the same place; Piercebridge (by the same road being raised 7 feet by an embank ment) ; and also twice in the township of Gainford, which said last- mentioned turnpike road and proposed raUway run alongside of and near to for a considerable distance, and intersects four times within a space of 4 miles, the public highway from Gainford to Ingleton, in the said township of Gainford, and the Bowes and Sunderland Bridge Turnpike Road ; and the public highway from Barnard Castle to Egglestone, in the township of Barnard Castle. Also, that the said crossings and proximity of the proposed railway wiU be highly dan gerous, inconvenient, and injurious to the pubUc passing along the said several turnpike roads and public highways. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 37 Messrs. George and James Graham and Mr. Edward Potter, colliery viewers; Mr. Christopher Hartley, quarryman, Staindrop; Mr. Mark Sherlock, Middleton- m-Teesdale ; Mr. Isaac Cape Cust, surgeon, Barnard Castle; Thomas Bouch, Esq., engineer of the line; Messrs. Blythe and Hawkshaw, civil engineers; Mr. Brown, under steward of the Earl of Harewood ; Mr. John Outhwaite, of Bainesse, near Catterick; Mr. G. P. Harrison, solicitor, Forcett; Mr. Thompson Richard son, solicitor, Barnard Castle ; Mr. MacNay, secretary of the Stockton and Darlington Railway Company ; and Joseph Pease, Esq. On behalf of the Auckland line, Ralph Ward Jackson, Esq. ; John Vaughan, Esq., of the firm of Bolckow and Vaughan ; Mr. Lax ; W. T. Scarth, Esq. ; and Mr. Booth, were examined. Evi dence was also heard on the Stockton and Darlington Railway (Haggerleazes Branch) Bill ; and the opinion of the committee was, that the preamble of the Stockton and Darlington bill was proved ; that the preamble of the Barnard Castle and Bishop Auckland bill was not proved ; and that the preamble of the Darlington and Barnard Castle bill was proved; thus deciding the subject on the merits of the respective schemes, and not on a point of the standing orders, as stated at page 566 of vol. i. The intelligence of this decision was telegraphed, on the same day, to Darlington ; and a great number of the inhabitants of Barnard Castle assembled on the road to meet the expected messenger from the former place. The wished-for tidings at length arrived ; and a pro cession was formed, with banners and music ; a cere mony which was repeated on the following evening, when the directors of the successful railway arrived from London. The select committee of the House of Lords on the Darlington and Barnard Castle railway bill met on the 19th June, 1854; it' consisted of Lord Panmure (chair man), the Earl of Ilchester, the Bishop of Carlisle, Lord Wynford, and Lord Hamilton. The petitioning land-owners against the measure were W. Surtees Raine, Esq., Messrs. Smurthwaite, Hunter, Topham, and others. The principal arguments of their counsel were directed to show the fallacious character of the company's traffic case; but as the opinion of the com mittee appeared to be made up on that subject, the opposition was withdrawn; and the preamble of the bill was declared to be proved. It received the royal assent on the 3rd July, 1854, and is intituled " An Act to make a Railway from the Stockton and Darlington Railway, near Darlington, to or near to Barnard Castle, both in the county of Durham, and to make arrange ments with the Stockton and Darlington Railway Com pany, and for other purposes." — 17 and 1.8 Vic, c. 115. The ceremony of cutting the first sod of the railway took place, amidst great rejoicings, on the 27th July, 1854. A procession was formed, consisting of the Grand United Order and the Manchester Unity of Odd Fellows, the Ancient Order of Foresters, the Free Gift Club, the chairman and officers of the company, and a large assemblage of the inhabitants of Barnard Castle, Darlington, Stockton, and other towns. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. T. Witham, chairman of the committee, and repeated by Henry Pease, Esq., vice-ch airman, by both of whom appropriate addresses were delivered. It is anticipated that the railway will be opened in November, 1855. The present directors are, the Rev. Thomas Witham, Lartington Hall; H. Pease, J. Bow man, J. Buckton, T. MacNay, and R. Thompson, Esqrs., Darlington ; Owen Longstaff, Isaac C. Cust, J. C. Monkhouse, and J. D. Holmes, Esqrs., Barnard Castle. Treasurers, Messrs. J. and J. W. Pease ; solicitors, Messrs. Mewburn and Co., Darlington, and Mr. Richardson, Barnard Castle; secretary, Mr. George Brown, Barnard Castle; contractor, Mr. Anderson. The capital of the company is £100,000, with the usual borrowing powers. The length of the line, which passes from Darlington, by Piercebridge, Gainford, Winston, Staindrop, and Newsham, to Bar nard Castle, is 15 J miles; and the estimated cost of construction, &c, including law expenses, is only about £7,000 per mile. The Barnard Castle terminus is near Galgate. The district west of Barnard Castle is an immense grazing territory of several miles area, extending far into Westmoreland. The corn-growing district has its boundary a little east of Barnard Castle. The railway will be of great advantage in conveying cattle from the west to the great consuming districts of the iron-fields, the West Riding of Yorkshire, and London, and facili tate the transmission of grain to the grazing districts, where it is wanted. It will give an impetus to the manufactures of Barnard Castle, and open out to tourists the splendid scenery of Teesdale, as well as the mineral resources of that lovely dale in lead, iron-stone, and mountain limestone; conveying the latter to Middlesbro' as a flux. It will also take the celebrated magnesian building lime westward, cheapen the transit of coal to Barnard Castle and westward, and generally open to the great highways of the land, and to commercial 38 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. enterprise, a wide and rich district hitherto entirely locked up. The people of Westmoreland and Cumberland are now actively engaged in promoting a line from the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, near Penrith, to the Barnard Castle terminus of the Darlington and Barnard Castle Railway, thus uniting the German Ocean and the Irish Sea. There is every reason to believe that this new project will succeed. If it does, the Darling ton and Barnard Castle Railway will become one of the most important lines in the kingdom. SANITARY CONDITION. In the year 1847, when alarming accounts of Asiatic cholera reached England, a committee of the guardians of the Teesdale Union was appointed, under the Nui sances Removal Act, to visit Barnard Castle, Thoy found it abounding in nuisances of a very unwholesome kind ; but, though some temporary remedies were adopted, the powers of the act were found insufficient for the sanitary requirements of the place. The Public Health Act, 11 and 12 Vic, c. 63, having been passed in 1848, a petition, duly signed by more than one-tenth of the rated inhabitants of the town, was presented to the General Board of Health ; and W. Ranger, Esq., superintending inspector, was appointed to make the necessary preliminary inquiry as to the necessity for an application of the act to the town. In the mean while, in August, 1849, the cholera visited Barnard Castle, where its effects were appalling. Mr. Ranger's first sitting took place on the 17th of October, in the Witham Testimonial, and was continued on four following days, during which he received much information from the Ven. Archdeacon Headlam ; the Rev. G. Dugard, A.M., perpetual curate; Rev. T. Jones, sub-curate; Dr. Edger, and Messrs. Benning, Kipling, Slader, and Cust, surgeons ; Messrs. Watson, W. Watson, Richard son, Charlton, and Holmes, solicitors; Messrs. Long- staff and J. C. Monkhouse, manufacturers ; Messrs. J. Steele, G. Brownless, George Brown, clerk to the Union, and acting secretary to the Sanitary Committee, and other inhabitants. Mr. Ranger also personally visited numerous courts, yards, and streets, and ex tended his inspection to the sleeping and lodging places * Startforth is a small but pleasant village and township adjoining Barnard Castle bridge, on the Yorkshire side of the Tees. The parish, which includes the township of Boldron, comprises 3,060 acres, and contained, in 1851, 165 inhabited houses and 6 uninhabited, with a population of 828 persons, of whom 350 were males and 438 females. of the working classes, particularly in those parts where the epidemic had been most rife. It was shewn that, in 1841, the proportion of deaths to the population was 1 to 46, and of births 1 in 27 ; whilst the proportion of deaths from epidemics to the population was 1 in 197. The average age of all who had died in the district was 27 years and 6 months, beinc one-fourth less than that attained in more healthy localities. The proportion of deaths to 1,000 of popu lation, on an average of 7 years, amounted to 26, being 3 in excess of the average calculation of the Public Health Act. The cases of fully developed cholera in the town, in 1849, were 159 males, of whom 65 died; and 218 females, of whom 80 died. There were, be sides, 1,297 cases of premonitory diarrhoea, from the 24th of August to the 18th of October. The charge of the union during that time amounted to £530 ; and a further sum of £400 was raised, in relief of the dis tressed, by a subscription among the neighbouring gentry and inhabitants ; whilst the members of five sick and burial clubs expended, in a period of about six weeks, among sick members, £235 19s. 10jd., making a total of £1,165 19s. 10Jd, exclusive of private dona tions. Mr. Ranger having recommended " that the Public Health Act, 1848, except the sections numbered 50 and 96 in the copies of that Act printed by her ma jesty's printers, should be applied to the township of Barnard Castle, in the county of Durham," an order in council to that effect was issued. Mr. Ranger, how ever, visited Barnard Castle a second time on the 25th of April, 1851, to determine the boundary of the dis trict for the purposes of the act; and after hearing evidence for and against the extension of the limits of the township, recommended that the district should consist of those parts of the townships of Barnard Castle, Marwood, and Startforth,* comprised "within the area of the watershed," together with the hall, out buildings, and gardens, occupied by the Misses Hut chinson in Startforth, the woods on the banks of Percy Brook, and of the Tees as far as the spring called the Spa, which are sometimes called Flatts Wood, Percy Beck Wood, and Marwood Banks or Wood. Also, " that the Local Board of Health for Barnard Castle consist of fifteen persons, three of whom shall be chosen It is included in the Teesdale Union. The church is situated in the village ; and the living is a vicarage. There were formerly several first-class schools in Startforth ; but these have been latterly. discon tinued. The ruins of Eggleston Abbey, noticed hereafter, are in the township of Startforth. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 39 by the persons entitled to vote in that part of the dis trict which is within the township of Startforth, and the remaining twelve by the persons entitled to vote in the other parts of the district ; and that any person at the time of his election, and as long as he continue in office by virtue of the same, be seised or possessed of real or personal estate, or both, to the value of £600, or shall be resident and rated to the relief of the poor of some parish, township, or place, of which some part is within the said district, upon an annual value of not less than £20." Under the powers of the Act, the Local Board ap pointed Mr. Ranger their engineer, and have made considerable progress in cleansing the town from the filthy state in which the inspector had described it. Besides providing an abundant supply of water, the drainage of the town has been considerably improved. The Board are now engaged in completing the con nection of the house drains with the public sewers ; their attention is also directed to the removal of nuisances, providing convenient receptacles for house- refuse, and adopting means of effecting its quick re moval, and its profitable application to agricultural purposes. The narrow courts and yards in the lower part of the town are kept purified by water, and the houses are regularly whitewashed. On the appearance of cholera in various places, in 1853, every preventive means was found to have been taken at Barnard Castle, and the epidemic did not appear there. The cost of the application of the Public Health Act, including the necessary legal powers for the execu tion of the works, and the expenses of the second inquiry for altering the boundaries of the district (by which house property is relieved from a large, portion of the burthen of the outlying highways, and the land from contribution to the general district rate), was £116; whereas the cost for an act of parliament would not have been less than £2,000 : a sum more than suffi cient for the drainage of the district. SUPPLY OF GAS AND WATER. A joint stock company, for supplying the town with gas, was established some years ago, under a deed of co-partnership. The works are situated on the Flatts, near the Castle. The streets are lighted by means of 82 public lamps, at a charge of £90 per annum. Of these lights, 64 are allowed to burn till eleven o'clock every night except Saturday, when they are kept open till twelve; and the remaining 18 burn till daylight. VOL. II. The price charged to private consumers was originally 10s. per 1,000 cubic feet; but in 1845, it was reduced to 6s., subject to a discount of Is. to large consumers. In the ten years ending 1849, 3,052 tons of coals had been consumed, and 38,913 bushels of coke sold. Some improvements in the working department were introduced in 1845, the value of which was proved by the circumstance that, in the preceding year, 222 tons 2 cwt. of coals were required to produce 372,200 cubic feet of gas; whilst, in 1845, 188 tons 18 cwt. of coals produced 541,253 cubic feet. The supply of water for the town was formerly de rived from five pumps, from a well called the Demesne Well, from a few private wells, from roofage, and from the Tees ; but the quantity, particularly in summer, was frequently insufficient. That derived from the few wells was hard, varying from, 40 to 49 degrees, besides being liable to adulteration from the percolation into the wells of the matters of sewers and cesspools, so that much of the water from this source was absolutely poisoned. The supply from the Demesne Well was very scanty; and numbers of persons might be seen around it, in the summer months, waiting for a supply. The rain water collected in butts soon became putrid ; whilst, in nu merous places, particularly in the majority of yards, there were neither pumps nor wells of any description. The river water was generally much discoloured, often thick and muddy, and always involving great labour and cost iu carrying by hand or horse to the houses. Thus, it was necessary for many persons to bring their supply from a distance of nearly a fifth of a mile. In 1849, the various sources of supply in and around the town were examined, with a view to the erection of water-woiks on a scale of sufficient magnitude for the town ; and the results of Professor Playfair's analyses of those submitted to him induced his recommending that of Stainton Hill. In addition to the superiority of this water, the configuration of the ground intervening be- tweenit and the town was considered well adapted for the formation of reservoirs, both with reference to posi tion and cost. The water of the Tees was disapproved by the General Board of Health ; and it was ultimately determined, on the advice of Mr. Ranger, engineer to the Local Board of Health, to adopt the springs called Stoney keld, near Strandforth, in the parish of Bowes. Works for drainage and water supply have been executed simultaneously in Barnard Castle, and of water supply alone in Startforth, the drainage of which still remains to be done. The water at Stoney- keld is of 3 degrees of hardness, and rises vertically G 40 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION from the ground in two or three places. These have been surrounded by puddle dykes, and formed into two covered wells, with stone work set in cement, and communicating with each other. From the lower well (after providing for the supply of two farms) an educ tion pipe of earthenware, of 9 inches diameter, has been laid for 3 miles and 1,533 yards, to an eminence called Westwood, about a mile from Barnard Castle, where it is discharged into a covered reservoir, and from thence brought into the town in iron pipes of 7 inches internal diameter. The total length of iron pipes, which vary from 1J to 7 inches in diameter, is 5 miles and 469 yards ; making, altogether, 9 miles and 242 yards of earthenware and iron pipes for the water supply. The mains and submains of the sewerage works are of tubular impermeable stone ware, of diameters varying from 6 to 15 inches, joined with cement, and imbedded in puddle. Their total extent is 3 miles and 239 yards. The cost of the combined works, as nearly as can at present be ascertained, is £6,000; being £4,100 for water supply, including land-owners' charges ; and £1,900 for drainage, including damages, &c* The supply of water, though sometimes insufficient in droughty summer weather for the manufacturing purposes of the town, is generally very plentiful. It is beautifully clear, soft, and pleasant to the taste, and well adapted for drinking, washing, and culinary uses. It is never exposed to the light from its source at the spring till it issues from the tap of the consumer. The unusual operation of cutting up the streets, with the occasional bursting of pipes, and other inconveniences incidental to such proceedings, were regarded by some of the primitive inhabitants with alarm, which was only dispelled by the successful completion of the undertak ing. The highest pressure of the water is about 250 feet, and the lowest about 90 feet. * The cost of draining the town with brick sewers, upon the old system, would not havebeen less than £4,000, taken at the very lowest estimate. f So early as 1834, a member of the working classes (a dyer at Bar nard Castle), in an essay read to the Mechanics' Institution, said, " Those manufacturers who are in the habit of using the water as drawn from the river Tees in dyeing must be aware of the variable re sults which are obtained in delicate colours, or in dyeing to pattern ; for by following exactly the same process, the same shade is only ob tained at certain periods ; thus creating vexation and disappointment to the operative, and certain loss to the manufacturer." % The Witham Family.— The Withams of Cliffe, now living at Lartington are descended from a Lincolnshire family, who are supposed to have derived their name from Witham Common, in the neighbour hood of Grantham, or from the river Witham, in the Bame county. Robert Wytham, of Grantham, whose wUl bears date December The total cost for a cottage tenement, for the whole' of the works of water service, drainage, and water' closet, is £jd. per week; but the rates have been so* arranged that only about l|d. per week will be paid by the tenant. The advantages of this supply have been fully appreciated ; and it is now introduced into almost every house and cottage; 542 tenants being supplied from 555 service pipes. The works were inspected,, in January, 1853, by Edwin Chadwick, Esq., and Dr. Southwood Smith, two of the commissioners of the General Board of Health. On the 14th February, 1854, Mr. Commissioner Lewis visited Barnard Castle, and, amongst other suggestions, recommended the for mation of an additional reservoir in connection with the water supply. The water thus brought into the town has been found' very valuable for the dyeing purposes of the carpet manufacturers. Specimens of the dyes obtained by the use of the waters of the Tees, even when subjected to a purifying process, have been compared with those ob tained from the new water supply as it issued unfiltered from the service pipe, and the result has proved the superiority of the latter in producing intensity and brightness of colour ; a circumstance which, it is hoped, will have a favourable effect on the welfare of the town.f The profits from the sale of water for manu facturing purposes, will also tend to lower the rates to private consumers. THE WITHAM TESTIMONIAL. A subscription library, with about 100 members, was established in 1824, but has been long extinct. The Mechanics' Institution was commenced in 1832, chiefly through the exertions of H. T. M. Witham, Esq., of Lartington, J and other gentlemen of the district. " The 30, 1440, was grandson of Sir Robert Wytham; he married Mar garet, daughter of Richard Skeldenby, and had six sons, the second of whom, Thomas, was Chancellor of the Exchequer; the third, William, Dean of Wells ; and the fourth and sixth, Sir Henry and Sir Richard, Knights of Rhodes. John, the fifth son, mar ried Margaret, daughter of — Barton, of Whembie, and had issue two sons (from the youngest of whom descended the Withams of Bretonby and Ledstone) and two daughters. George, the eldest sou, married Margaret, daughter and coheiress of John Wawton, of Cliffe, and by her (who died in 1479, and is buried at Manfield) had three sons and three daughters. The eldest son, John Witham, Esq., of Cliffe and Corneburg, married Agnes, daughter of Sir Thomas Gower, of Stytnam, Yorkshire, and had a son and two daughters. Thomas, the son, married Cicely, daughter of John Conyers, of Hutton-upon-Wysk, Yorkshire ; and his son, John, married Eleanor, daughter of James Eox, Esq., of Thorpe-under- Willow. Then- daughter, Margaret, be- canie the wife of Anthony Chater, Esq., of Butterby ; and their son, CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 41 ¦objects that these early patrons of the soicety had in view," it was observed in the first report, " were, first, to afford to the working classes of Barnard Castle access to a good library at an easy rate, and to give to all members of the community an opportunity of improving themselves in those sciences more immediately con nected with the different arts they respectively practise ; and, secondly, to induce them to pursue knowledge as an amusement, rather than those low and debasing' pleasures that tend only to debilitate the body and vitiate the mind. Another object of this Institution was to afford the town and neighbourhood an opportu nity to keep pace with the other parts of the kingdom in their prodigious advancement in literature and science ; which you must either do or be left behind, as a gazing-stock to those who have profited more by their opportunities." From the commencement of its existence, this Insti tution, notwithstanding the efforts of a few zealous members, had to struggle against great discouragements. The working classes generally did not appreciate the importance of such institutions ; religious prejudices, at that time, prevailed strongly against them; and the middle classes gave very partial encouragement, many keeping altogether aloof. The lectures and meetings were very thinly attended; and the income scarcely met the current expenditure, exclusive of books or Anthony, who married Anne, daughter of John Middleton, Esq., of Stokeld, Yorkshire, was succeeded by his eldest son, John, who mar ried, 1st, Dorothy, daughter and coheiress of WiUiam Wycliffe, Esq., of Wycliffe ; 2nd, Mary Rudd ; and 3rd, Jane, daughter of Cuthbert' Radcliffe, Esq., of Blanchland, Northumberland. By his first wife he had three sons (one of whom became a monk in Germany) and two daughters. WiUiam, the eldest son and heir, married Anne, daughter of George CoUingwood, Esq., of Eslington, Northumberland, and had four sons and three daughters. During these successive eras in the famUy history, the Reformation which had gathered proselytes amongst many of the families of landed gentry in the kingdom, passed lightly over the Withams, who steadily -adhered to the ancient faith. George Witham, Esq., of Cliffe, who succeeeded WiUiam, just mentioned, had, by his wife, Grace, daughter of Sir Mannaduke Wyvile, Bart., of Constable "Burton, Yorkshire, seven sons and two daughters. George, the second son, became a Roman Catholic bishop and vicar apostolic of the northern district ; Christopher, fourth son, was a priest ; Robert, fifth son, was president of the English College at Douay ; and one of the daughters, Dorothy, became a nun. Mr. Witham died in 1648, and was succeeded by his eldest son, John, who married, 1st, Elizabeth, youngest daughter of Edward Standish, Esq., of Standish, Lancashire ; and 2nd, Troth, daughter of — Nicholas Tempest, Esq. , of HaUiwell. William Witham, Esq., Ms eldest son, whose wUl is dated July 8, 1723, married, in 1707, Anne, daughter of Sir Henry Lawson, Bart., of Brough, Yorkshire, by whom he had five sons, the second of Whom, Thomas, was an M.D. in Durham, and was buried in St. Oswald's church in 1786. Henry, eldest son and heir of WUliam, had, by his wife, Catherine, daughter tod coheiress of Anthony Meaburne, Esq., of Pontop, two sons and teachers. From 1839 to 1844, strenuous efforts 'were made, by reducing the working outlay and other re forms, to impart stability to the society. In the latter year, the president, H. T. M. Witham, Esq., expressed a wish that some appropriate building should be erected for the purposes of the society. His death, in Novem ber of that year, suggested to Messrs. Cust, Monkhouse, and Brown, three of the members of the Institution, the propriety of erecting a testimonial to his memory, which should consist, not of an idle column, but of a building devoted to some of those benevolent purposes which he had patronized during his life. They there fore convened a meeting of the committee and a few respectable inhabitants of the town ; and a subscription was immediately set on foot for the proposed object. In a short time, £750 was thus raised ; the directors of the Dispensary (in which Mr. Witham had taken a great interest) gave £240, on condition of having accommodation in the building; and a ladies' bazaar realized £240 more, which completed the subscription. The building is situated in the Market Place, and pre sents an elegant stone front, two stories in height, in the Italian style of Grecian architecture. The lower story is rusticated, with a handsome central door-case, ornamented with Ionic columns, supporting an entabla ture and pediment, and having on each side a circular arched window. The upper story consists of two Ionic six daughters. He died in 1771, and was succeeded by his elder son, WiUiam, who married Winifred, daughter of Nicholas Stapleton, Esq., of Carlton; but dying without issue, August 2, 1802, he de vised the estate of Cliffe (since sold to — Wilson, Esq.) to Eliza, daughter of his brother Thomas, of Headlam, by his wife, Maryi daughter of James Thornton, Esq., of Netherwitton, Northumberland. Elifca Witham was married to Henry Silvertop, Esq., born 28th May, 1779, (younger son of John Silvertop, Esq., of Minster Acres), who assumed the surname of Witham, and had issue, 1. Henry-John, born July; 17, 1802, died August 20, 1S35; 2. William Lawrence, born September 18, 1804, married Anne Maria, daughter of William Salvin, Esq., of Croxdale, and died without issue in 1841 ; 3. George, died Sept. 8, 1847 ; 4. Thomas-Edward, in holy orders of the church of Rome, born December 6, 1806, now of Lartington ; 5, 6. Charles-James and Alfred- Oswin, died young; 7. Catherine, married, in 1823, to H. Englefield, Esq. ; 8. Maria, diedininfancy ; 9.Emma-Seraphina-Mary, married, in 1841, to William Dunn, Esq., of Hedgefield ; S.Elizabeth- Mary, a nun, deceased ; and, 10, Winifred-Mary- Anne, married, Sep tember 23, 1834, to Gerald Salvin, Esq., of Croxdale. Mr. Witham, who served as high sheriff of the county of Durham in 1844, died on the 28th November in that year, and was succeeded by his son, the late George Witham, Esq., of Lartington HaU, Yorkshire, who was captain in the 68 th Light Infantry; born October 9, 1805. Captain Witham was a magistrate and deputy-lieutenant for the counties of Durham and York. Arms — Or, a bandlet, gu., between three eaglets, sa. Crest — Out of a ducal coronet, or, a demi- woman, her hair dishevelled, ppr., in her dexter hand a gem ring, or. Motto— Optime Merentu. Seat — Lartington Hall. 42 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. columns, and pilasters at the angles, the full height of the story, with a rich entablature, in which is carved the name of the gentleman in whose honour the build ing is erected; the same breaking over the two centre columns, and terminating with a pediment, flanked by a low and well-proportioned attic. Between the centre columns is a rich Venetian window, with two Ionic columns supporting a plain head only, which, though somewhat singular, is yet simple and consistent in effect. The interior contains a spacious lecture room, library room, and librarian's residence ; with a dispen sary, a surgery, and out-offices. During the erection of the building, the subscription to those members of the Institution who were mechanics and artizans, was reduced from 8s. to 5s. per annum. In accordance with a suggestion from the Rev. T. E. Witham, president, an evening school is carried on during the winter months, in which, reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, and history are taught. The number of volumes in the library exceeds 2,500, exclu sive of periodicals. The present number of members is 150, and the income about £70 per annum. The anni versaries of the Institution are enlivened by soirees; and occasional excursions are made during the summer months, which the objects in the surrounding country tend to render highly attractive, as, in addition to the historical associations connected with the district, its botanical, mineralogical, and geological features are peculiarly interesting. At the annual soiree held on the 22nd of September, 1854, it appeared from the report, read by the secre tary, Mr. Brown, that the Institution, though not in a declining state, was capable of more extended useful ness, as many of its members did not show the disposi tion for acquiring useful knowledge, or for scientific attainments, that its supporters might have expected, nor such as the means of the Institution provide. MISCELLANEOUS INSTITUTIONS. Dispensaey. — A dispensary was established in Ja nuary, 1835, which is supported by donations and subscriptions. During the year ending October, 1848, 116 cases were attended in the town alone; and in the following year, there were 125 cases. In the year ending January 2, 1854, the number of patients cured was 169; relieved, 8; remaining on the book, 15; had extra tickets, 17; died, 9; total, 218. The subscrip tions, during the twelve months, amounted to £47 17s. ; and the expenditure for drugs was £23 Is. ; for instru ments, 4s. 3d. ; for stationery and printing, £2 4s. 61 j for carriage, postage, and sundries, 9s. ; and one year's salary of medical officers, £25. There is a deposit of upwards of £70, belonging to this institution, in the savings bank. A benefaction of £5 and upwards con stitutes the donor a governor for life. In consideration of a donation of £240 to the building fund of the Witham Testimonial, the institution is held in apart- ¦ments provided for the purpose in that erection. The present officers are — President, His grace the Duke of Cleveland ; Vice-presidents, the Revds. G. Macfar- lan, G. Price, and G. Dugard, and John Bowes and William Maude, Esqrs.; Consulting Physician, Dr. T. S. Edger; Surgeons and Apothecaries, Messrs. Benning and Slater ; and Secretary and Treasurer, Mr. Richardson. Indigent Sick Society. — This society is also sup ported by voluntary contributions ; and its objects are effected by searching out persons in distress, to whom relief is afforded at their owo homes. Upwards of 200 cases have been annually attended to. The Church Clothing Society is supported prin cipally by members of the Established Church ; and, in connection with the schools, there is a clothing fund for boys and girls, to which each contributes one penny per week. There is also a general Clothing Society, unconnected with any religious party. The Female Charity for the Benefit of poor Lying-in Wo men is supported by public contributions. The Society for promoting Christian Know- ledge has a branch at Barnard Castle. The branch of the Darlington Auxiliary Bible Society, during the year ending Midsummer, 1853, transmitted £37 10s. lid. on the purchase account, and £15 3s. 5d. free; total, £52 14s. 4d. In the same period, 142 Bibles and 178 Testaments were distributed. Benefit Societies. — The Ancient Order of Foresters have a lodge in Barnard Castle. Their allowance to a member's family, on his death, is £10; and to a mem ber, on his wife's death, £7. The Victoria Free Gift Society allow to a member's wife, &c, on his death, £5 ; and to a member, on his wife's death, £3. The Manchester Unity, and the Grand United Order of Odd Fellows, have each a lodge in the town ; and there are a few other clubs, for mutual support during sick ness, &c The benefits afforded by Building Societies have also been appreciated and acted upon. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 43 Agricultural Society. — This society, which has been established some years for the improvement of the breed of cattle, resolved, at the general meeting held on the 30th August, 1854, that persons at any distance, whether members or not, should be at liberty to exhibit and compete for the society's premiums ; the rules having hitherto admitted, for this purpose, those only who resided within 10 miles of Barnard Castle. The public exhibitions of the society are considered to have been the earliest in the kingdom; and at the 'annual show held in the Castle Garth, on the 11th October, 1854, the cattle on the ground were pronounced to be superior to any hitherto exhibited. On that occasion, the principal landowners and agriculturists of the so ciety were present; and at the dinner of the society, held on the same day, his grace the Duke of Cleveland presided. John Michell, Esq., is president of the society ; and Christopher Cradock, Esq., and the Rev. W. F. Wharton, are the vice-presidents. Secretary, Mr. W. Watson. Horticultural Society. — The exhibitions of this society are held in the Castle Garth ; and prizes are awarded for the best specimens of flowers, fruits, vege tables, &c. At the exhibition held on the 8th Septem ber, 1854, the allotment and cottage gardeners took the prizes in the vegetable class. Co-operative Corn Mill Society. — This is a so ciety recently formed in Barnard Castle, having for its object the supply of flour, meal, &c, on favourable terms, and is managed by a body of directors. National Schools. — The National School' for boys was founded in 1814, by subscription, towards which Bishop Barrington contributed £100. The school-room is situated on the south side of the church-yard. The girls' school, established in 1850, and to which the Duke of Cleveland subscribed £50, is on the north west side of the church-yard. On the government inspector's visit, June 17, 1853, 191 boys were present at examination. During the preceding twelve months, 45 had left, and 46 had been admitted ; average at-' tendance, 170. The inspector's general observations were — * Mr. George Layton, author of "Castle Barnard, a Poem," pub lished in 1823, was for some time teacher of a school at Bowes. He was born in or near Baldersdale in 1790 or 1791, and, after quitting Bowes, kept a school at Heworth Shore, on the Tyne. Whilst em ployed in a chemical manufactoiy at that place, he became a member of the Northern PoUtieal Union, and was one of the speakers at the " BuUdings, a large room ; no class room ; a wooden floor has been substituted for a stone one. Eight loose desks. Furniture, clock, stove. Playground, no freehold. The school stands on the edge of ' The Mains.' Books, methods, discipline, and instruction, fair. Or ganization ; standard of classification : reading and arithmetic. Eight classes for all subjects, under master, with certificate of merit, and four pupil-teachers ; one division fist and 2nd class) for scripture. Every class is in three groups for arithmetic. Each pupU- teacher is confined to one class for two months." At the girls' school, visited on the same day, 102 were present at examination ; 38 had left during the year ; 40 had been admitted ; and the average attend ance was 95. General observations: — "Buildings, a fair-sized room ; no class-room. Pour loose desks. Furniture, clock. No playground. Apparatus, six black-boards, five easels. Organization ; standard of classification : reading. Six classes for all subjects ; two divisions for scripture, geography, and object lessons. Each pupU-teacher is confined for one month to two classes." Other Schools.— There are several boarding and day schools in Barnard Castle.* The Roman Catholics have a school in Queen Street, attended by about 30 boys and 20 girls. There is a school belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists on the Demesnes, at which about 80 boys and girls attend. At the infant school, also on the Demesnes, about 64 boys and 50 girls are at pre sent instructed. The Sunday schools connected with the various places of worship have been already noticed. The first in Barnard Castle was commenced in the workhouse by a poor man named William Emmerson, who, observing the want of education amongst the children employed in the manufactories, assembled as many as he could for instruction on Sundays. His efforts were at first regarded with contempt, and he struggled on for some time amidst the derision of those around him. Happily, he persevered in his useful enterprize ; and the result was, that in a few years, Sunday schools acquired the popularity they still possess in the town. INHABITANTS. The town of Barnard Castle has produced some indi viduals whose talents and virtues would have graced a great public meeting held on the Town Moor of Newcastle, on the 11th of October, 1819, to deliberate on the " Manchester massacre." In various situations in life, he energetically advocated the popular principles of annual parliaments, universal suffrage, and vote by ballot. Some of the notes to " Castle Barnard" are piquant, and are illustrative of circumstances connected with the history of the town. 44 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. wider sphere of action.* Amongst those who have acquired more than a local fame may be mentioned the late Baron Hullock; William Hutchinson, Esq., F.A.S. historian of the county (see vol. i., p. 10) ;f and George Edwards, Esq., M.D.J The gradual progress of refine ment has, of course, extended itself into this, as well as into other and more remote districts of the country; and the courtesies of life are as well understood, and as gracefully practised in and around, this town, as they are generally amongst the educated classes of society. Peculiar circumstances, however, though sometimes isolated in themselves, have occasionally been taken advantage of for the purpose of throwing discredit on the character of its population. The following remarks by Mr. Justice Cresswell, at the county assizes, March 6, 1851, in passing sentence of two years' imprisonment on Edward Harper, for an assault on Elizabeth Aarday at Barnard Castle, produced a considerable sensation at that place. His lordship read over a list of the cul prit's offences, including one conviction at the sessions, and numerous summary convictions before the magis trates, and observed that it was right the public should know what sort of a character he was. Indeed, he was a fair specimen of the men belonging to Barnard Castle, and who reflected such disgrace upon the county. It was a sink of vice and profligacy, for there was more * The ancestors of Sir Roderick Murchison, the eminent geologist, resided at Barnard Castle. Mr. Kipling, a celebrated mathematician of the last century, was born here ; Mr. Ewbank, the well-known writer on Hydraulic Engineering, is also a native of this place. f Several letters in the possession of R. H. AUan, Esq., F.S.A,, BlackwaU HaU, relate to the authorship of Hutchinson's invaluable History of Durham. Mr. Hutchinson himself says, in one of his letters, " Mr. Allan's (the antiquary) indefatigable labour has accu mulated most of the materials from which this work is compUed, and from whose unexampled bounty and generosity they are submit ted to the author's arrangment for the public eye." In a letter dated April 30, 1786, poor Hutchinson thus bemoans himself to his kind and worthy friend, Allan : — " I am still to endure very insolent and impertinent reprimands from Hodgson the printer, who complains so much of the length of the work, that, with your leave, I am determined to strike out every thing possible, and with draw the appendix touching Holderness, Norham and Bedlington- shires, and reserve them all, with notes already withheld, for a volume of addenda after the work has passed his hand. I was so pleased at what you said that he appeared better satisfied with the work, that I congratulated him thereon, and was replied to, 'that the judicious readers condemned the method, and he was heartily sick of it.' These are painful things after my laborious journey through so many volumes. Please therefore, sir, to expunge all you can." % Dr. Edwards. — George Edwards, Esq., M.D., was the repre sentative of a respectable and wealthy family, established for some descents in Barnard Castle, but said to be originally from Wales. Dr. Edwards graduated at Edinburgh, but never practised except crime committed in Barnard Castle than all the places of the county put together. That, indeed, had always been its character ever since he (his lordship) had known it, and it was a great disgrace to the county that it should continue in such a state. § This sweeping charge called forth several indignant replies, through the medium of the press, from inhabit ants of the town, one of whom says, " That there have been, and perhaps still are, vicious and worthless cha racters in Barnard Castle, I readily admit ; but that the party alluded to is a fair sample of the inhabitants, I most emphatically deny. The learned judge seems to have forgotten that Barnard Castle has produced men eminent alike for their learning and piety, and, amongst others, the late Baron Hullock, whose calm dignity, and placid, even temper, under the most trying circum stances, Mr. Justice Cresswell would do well to imitate." General charges against whole communities are too indiscriminate to be just ; and it is but fair to state that a subsequent report of the chaplain of the county prison proved that the learned judge's observations had been hasty and inaccurate. The Rev. George Dugard, incumbent of the chapelry, and a magistrate of the county, in a report delivered to the superintending inspector of the Board of Health, gratuituously, and spent the greater part of a handsome estate in philanthropic projects. He was the author of several books and pam phlets on political, medical, and agricultural subjects, the first of which, " The Aggrandisement and National Perfection of Great Britain," in 2 vols. 4to, was published in 1787 ; and the last, "The National Improvement of the British Empire, or an Attempt to rectify PubUc Affairs," in 2 vols. 8vo, appeared in 1808. During the latter part of his life, Dr. Edwards resided in Suffolk Street, Charing Cross, London ; and he died at Hammersmith, on the 17th of January, 1823, in the 72nd year of his age. Many of the improvements in and around Barnard Castle were projected by him. § In his charge to the grand jury at the same assizes, Mr Justice Cresswell, with reference to the county at large, remarked that " in looking through the calendar he was struck with two circumstances —one was, that the amount of education amongst the criminals ap peared to be very smaU, and the other, that the amount of drunk enness appeared to be very great. In this county, these two prolific sources of crime— ignorance and intemperance— seemed greatly to prevaU. He therefore trusted in their respective stations, they would apply themselves in such a manner as to remedy these evUs ; and that, from the spread of education, and the greater caution that would be exercised in granting and renewing licenses for public-houses, they would be the means of improving the morals and habits of the popu lation of the county." With respect to the aUeged want of education, the learned judge ought to have remembered that the county should not justly be held responsible for the united ignorance of the multi tudes of Irish, Scotch, and other labourers, who have been for some years back, and are stUl attracted by the prospect of employment aU the public works in progress. = ¥ -.'-. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 45 gave an appalling picture of the moral depravity of the working classes in Barnard Castle, which he attributed, amongst other causes, to the apprentice system, whereby youths and girls are allowed to receive their own earnings, and are thus placed beyond the control of their parents or friends. He states that at the age of 15 or 16, boys and girls quit the paternal roof, and reside with each other ; and a long • list was furnished to the inspector of parties thus living, under the term of going tally, some with children varying from one to eight in number. That the picture is overcharged, however, may be safely presumed ; " as, were such the general state of society, the evil would be so intolerable in its consequences to tradesmen and ratepayers as to work its own cure. ENVIRONS OF BARNARD CASTLE; Few towns in England can compete, for beauty of scenery, with Barnard Castle. The country around is richly wooded, fertile, and highly cultivated ; and the banks of the winding Tees, descending in gentle slopes, or projecting in overhanging precipices, form pictu resque and graceful combinations with the rocky bed over which its foaming waters force their way. The Flatts, a beautiful woodland scene, on the west of the Castle, and which commands several delightful views of that venerable ruin, the church and town, the village of Startforth, and the fields and pastures on the Yorkshire side of the river, has been already alluded to (see page 15). The walks were formerly almost impassi ble, until the late Dr. Edwards, having obtained per mission from the Earl of Darlington, planned a,nd carried out, at his own expense, a series of meandering footpaths, adapted to the surrounding scenery, and leading to a sulphureous spring, about 2 miles north west from the town. " The walks through wild Mar wood," says Surtees, " were planned with admirable simplicity — threading the thicket, crossing the ravine, scaling the cliff, and again descending to the shelving margin of the river, with all the effect of natural forest- tracks." " A small expense," says the author of " A Tour in Teesdale," " might protect the spring from the floods ; and a well-built, though not a large inn, would afford sufficient accommodation to establish its credit." The Mains is a fine level pasture close to the Tees, bounded on the west by the houses in Thorngate, and on the north by a steep green hill, on the ridge of which stand the church, the National School, and the houses of one side of Newgate Street, stretching towards the east. At the eastern extremity of the Mains is the Abbey Bridge, a beautiful structure of one bold arch, with embattled parapets, over which the ivy has thrown its dark green tapestry. It was erected at the sole expense of John Sawrey Morritt, Esq., of Rokeby Park ; and opened with an imposing Masonic procession and cere mony on the 19th of June, 1773. In a little dell near the south end of the bridge, and on the west side of the road leading from it to Rokeby, stand the romantic ruins of Egliston Abbey, from which the bridge derives its appellation. Part of the east window still remains, and crumbling fragments of walls and arches remain to at test its former architectural splendour ; the whole scene softened down by time since the period when its demo-. lition was recent : — ¦ "The reverend pile lay wUd and waste, Profaned, dishonoured, and defaced. Through storied lattices no more In softened light the sunbeams pour, Gilding the Gothic sculpture rich Of shrine, and monument, and niche, The Civil fury of the time Made sport of sacrilegious crime ; For dark Fanaticism rent Alter, and screen, and ornament, And peasant hands the tombs o'erthrew Of Bowes, of Rokeby, and Fitz-Hugh. " Rokeby. Of the objects above noticed, a writer already quoted says, "Walk over the Mains, a large pasture on the contrary side of the town to the Flatts ; cross it towards the mill, and follow the Tees to the Abbey Bridge. A segment of the arch is seen, deeply shaded by the hang ing woods on each side of the river, which, considerably below, presents an unbroken lake-like surface, but within a hundred yards resumes its rough impetuous character, and foams over opposing rocks towards the bridge. En deavour to get on the rocks, and pass under the bridge, to the distance of about a hundred and fifty yards, till you are opposite to a large mass of rock in the mid stream. Turn round, and through the majestic arch the ruins of Egliston Abbey appear like a framed picture. Climb the hill, and return by the fields to the high road. As you approach, you have another and perhaps the best view of the abbey, and an extensive and diversified coun try. Go down to the bridge, which looks on two fine avenues of wood and rock, both up and down the river ; one terminated by the town of Barnard Castle, and taking in the ruins and a rude bridge over a small rivulet ; the other closed by the house at Rokeby." In returning to the town by the Yorkshire side of the river, the writer says, " The town, the castle, the bridge, appear spread 46 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. before the eye like a map in a fine sunset, so inimitable are the variety and richness of tint afforded from so many different objects, and from five distinct ranges of hills which form the lofty back-ground." The envirous of the river Greta, which flows into the Tees from the south, are admirably described in the notes to Sir Walter Scott's poem of Rokeby. Kinninvie. — This hamlet, which is partly in the township of Barnard Castle and partly in that of Mar wood, is situated 3 J miles north from the town, and contains a school, a public house, aud the shops of a cartwright and a blacksmith. MARWOOD. This township forms the north-western part of the chapelry of Barnard Castle, and adjoins the town on the west, part of which, with the Flatts, are included in it. Its extent is 3,675 acres ; and the population, at the successive returns, was 156, 177, 212, 200, 224, and 205. Of the latter number, 108 were males and 97 fe males ; and there were, at that date, 35 inhabited houses. The annual value of property, assessed for the county- rate in 1853, was £2,457 14s. lid. The contributions of the township of Marwood to the Teesdale Union, for the year ended March, 1854, were, for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £9 Is. 5d. ; out-relief and lunatics, £15; irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £9 18s. 3d.; constable and costs before magistrates, 14s. 6d. ; law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 10s. ; journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £1 0s. Id.; total of expenditure, £36 4s. 3d., being £5 19s. 7d. less than that of the preceding year. The vaccination fees amounted to 12s., and registration to lis. 6d. The overseers paid to the county rate £41 10s. 2d. Marwood anciently contained a town of its own name ; but the erection of the castle and town of Barnard Cas tle, and the successive grants of land made to the bur gesses and freeholders, gradually induced its decay and final disappearance. Marwood Chase or Park extended along the north bank of the Tees, and bordered on the southern verge of Langley. It was purchased from the grantees of the crown, with Barnard Castle and Raby, by Sir Henry Vane, and was disparked in 1628. It is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland. Woolhousc was, in the 17th century, held by the Thoresbys. High Ship ley, or Marwood Hag, was the property of the Raynes ; and Cuthbert Rayne, who died unmarried before 1715, with Emma his sister, sold it to George Bowes, Esq., of Streatlam, for £2,100. Low Shipley, which belonged to the Simpsons, was, with Roger Moor, sold, in 1709, to Lady Elizabeth, widow of Sir William Bowes, for £1,500. Robert Knott, with West Roger Moor, passed from the Traynes to William Robinson, of Rokeby, Gent., whose descendant, Sir Thomas Robinson, Bart., conveyed them, in 1742, to George Bowes, Esq. Hole- house was part of the estates of the Raynes. Huller bush, one of the old estates of the Boweses, was repurchased from the Hodshon and Bell families, in 1692, by Mrs. Ann Bowes, for £210. It is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland. Parrock Mire was the estate of Sir John Hullock, who left a life interest in it to Lady Hullock.* On her decease, it passed to J. Lamb, Esq., solicitor, son of Sir John Hullo ck's sister. STREATLAM AND STAINTON. This township contains the village of Stainton, the castle and park of Streatlam, and a number of scattered houses. It comprises an area of 2,907 acres, The po pulation, in 1801, was 272 ; in 1811, 232 ; in 1821, 251 ; in 1831, 324; in 1841, in consequence of several work men being temporarily employed at the castle, it had increased to 373 ; and in 1851, it was 344, of whom 177 were males and 167 females. There were, at that time, 69 inhabited houses and 2 uninhabited ; and the pro perty was valued for the county-rate, in 1853, at £2,450 16s. lOd. During the year ended March, 1854, Streatlam and Stainton contributed to the Teesdale Union, for in- maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £1 13s. 7d. ; out- relief and lunatics, £28 13s. 6d. ; irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £31 19s. 7d. ; constable and costs before magistrates, 8s. 6d. ; law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 10s. ; journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £1 10s. 6d. ; total of expenditure, £64 15s. 8d. The repayments of relief by relations and other receipts were £1 4s. 6d., leaving a net total of £63 lis. being £11 8s. 8d. less than that of the preceding year. The vaccination fees were £1, and for registration, £1 Is. 8d. The county-rate paid by the overseers was £41 19s. lOd. * A mural tablet of marble, to the memory of LadyHuUock, has been erected in the chancel of Barnard Castle church, on the oppo site side to that on which Baron Hullock's is placed. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 47 STREATLAM. Warin Trayne is the first named lord of Stretlam and Staynton. With his son Hugh, he endowed a cha pel for their men there, with the consent of Guy de Laci, vicar of Gainford, in 1210. John, great grandson of Hugh, married Agnes, daughter and heiress of Ralph de la Haye, of Staynton -in- the-Street, said to be a niece of Hugh Baliol ; and their sole daughter and heiress, Alice, about 1310, married Adam de Bowes, Knt., who thus became lord of Streatlam in right of his wife. THE BOWES FAMILY. The descent of the Bowes is traced from a cousin of Alanus Niger (the Black), Earl of Richmond, who ap pointed him captain of the tower of Bowes, and leader of 500 archers. Sir Adam Bowes, above named, some times styled of Richmond, was " learned in the lawes." chief justice of the Court of Common Pleas, by patent, 5 Edw. III., 1331 ; steward of Richmondshire, and seneschal to Bishop Kellaw. In 1333, he settled Os- mondcroft and Stubhous on his son Robert, reserving to himself an annuity of £9 out of the former and 40s. out of the latter. He was succeeded by his eldest son, Ro bert, whose son, also named Robert, released all right in Helton, Barford on the Moor, Whorleton, Osmondcroft, and Cockfield, to his father's trustees, 12th December, 1356, and died without issue. Thomas, his eldest brother, was succeeded in the Streatlam estates by William, a third son of the elder Robert. He is said to have been created a knight banneret at Poictiers in 1346; and, in 1384, became heir to his mother, Eliza beth, daughter of Sir John Lilburne, of Lilburne, Northumberland. He married Maude, daughter and sole heiress of Richard de Dalden, lord of Dalden, Pallion, Hamildon, and Clowcroft. His will is dated January 17, 1420. Sir Robert Bowes, his eldest son, was created a banneret at the siege of Rouen in 1419 ; and was slain, with Thomas D uke of Clarence, at Baugy Bridge, in 1 42 1 . His widow, Joan, daughter of Sir Robert Conyers, of Ormesby, Cleveland, married Thomas Bromflete. Sir William Bowes, son of Sir Robert, and only sur viving heir of the whole family, had livery as heir to his grandfather, Sir William, in 1410, and became heir to his mother, Joan Bromflete in 1438. He married Jane, daughter of Ralph Lord Greystock, on whose death in the first year of their marriage, and before she had reached the age of twenty, he " toke much thoght, and passed into France," where he was engaged in the wars, and knighted at Vernoyle in 1424. Leland says of him, VOL. II. " One of this house, caulled Syr Gul. Bowes, was Cham- brelayne with the Duke of Bedeforde, brother to Henry the 5, and uncle to the 6, and Protector and Governour in Fraunce, by whos favor Bowes, caullid in Frenche Mounseir de Arches, being in Fraunce with hym a xvii yeres, waxid riche, and comming home augmented his lande and fame." — " Syr William Bowes, that was in France with the Duke of Bedeford, did build afun- damentis the manor place of Stretlam in the Bishoprik of Dirham, not far from Barnardes Castelle." Having retired to his hereditary mansion, which he had caused to be rebuilt from a model sent from France, he con tinued, for the sake of his beloved wife, a widower till his death in 1465, at the age of at least 86. He is dis tinguished in the family roll as "old Sir William Bowes," and was warden of the Middle Marches and governor of Berwick. Sir William Bowes, only son of the last-named Sir William and Jane Greystock, was sheriff of Northum berland 6 Edw. IV., and warden of the Middle Marches under John, Marquis of Montacute, and Richard, Duke of Gloucester. By his wife, Maude, daughter of Henry Lord Fitzhugh, of Ravensworth, he had issue five sons and seven daughters. Six of the latter married respectively into the families of Hilton of Hilton Castle, Bulmer of Wilton, Conyers, Lisle, S winnow, and Wycliffe. William, eldest son of Sir William, married Isabel Clifton, a neice to Bishop Booth, but died without issue, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Ralph Bowes, of Streatlam and Dalden Tower. He became entitled to considerable property in Richmondshire, by his mar riage with Margery, daughter and co-heiress of Richard Conyers, Esq., of South Cowton. His son, Sir Ralph Bowes, of Streatlam, Dalden, and South Cowton, was appointed high sheriff of Durham on the 4th of October, 1482, and served 'that office 30 years under Bishops Sherwood, Fox, Sinews, Bainbrigg, and Ruthall. He was at Flodden Field in 1516. By his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Henry Lord Clifford, and sister of Henry, first Earl of Cumberland, he had issue two daughters and a posthumous son, George, born in 1517, and in ward of Sir William Bulmer 10th February, 2 Wolsey. He married Muriel, daughter of William Lord Eure, of Witton, and sister of Sir Ralph Eure. The latter married Margery, sister of Sir George Bowes, thus dou bly cementing the union of the families. Sir George died in 1546 ; and his only son, Ralph, having died young, the estates and representation of the family passed to his uncle, Sir Robert Bowes. He was of the h 48 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION Privy Council to Henry VIIL, the Council of the North, Master of the Rolls, warden of the Middle Marches, and escheator of Durham by patent from 1529 to 1543. He married Jane, daughter of Sir James Metcalfe, of Nappa; but his four sons died young ; and he was succeeded by his nephew, George, son of Richard Bowes, Esq., of Aske, by Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Roger Aske, Esq. Sir George Bowes, of Streatlam, was heir male of the whole family, and was styled of Aske, 7th April, 1 Eliz. ; of South Cowton, 1st July, 4 Eliz. ; and was sheriff of Yorkshire in the same year. Like most of his ancestors, he was early trained to the profession of arms, and distinguished himself in the Border wars. The Earl of Shrewsbury, marshal of Berwick, conferred on him the honour of knighthood in 1558, in which year, in conjunction with Sir Henry Percy, he invaded the Merse, burnt Dunse and Langton, and repulsed the Scotch and French at Swinton. He married, first, Dorothy, daughter of Sir William Mallory, of Studley Royal, Yorkshire; and, secondly, Jane, daughter of Sir John Talbot, of Grafton, Worcestershire, by Frances, daughter of Sir John Guildford, only sister of John Talbot, Esq., and aunt of George, Earl of Shrews bury. Supported by powerful family connexions, and endowed with splendid talents, Sir George Bowes con tinued to occupy an honourable position in the North, where he was distinguished for his loyalty to Queen Elizabeth, and attachment to the Protestant faith. He was induced by principle to resist the Northern Rebellion, on its outburst in 1569. The first muttered thuuder of that event is contained in Sir George's diary, which commences, " I met the Earl of West merland of Saturday next after St. Matthew's day (21st September), or there about, as our ways crossed, his to Branspeth, and mine to the Isle : and appointed * This correspondence, with other memoranda on the same subject, which have been called "the Bowes papers," consist of a large col lection of original letters, copies of letters, and other documents. Some fragments were discovered in a closet in the library at Gibside, which had been long shut up ; and the remainder were found on the 6th of October, 1833, after a most laborious search by W. Hutt, Esq., M.P., and Sir Cuthbert Sharp, in an old deal box, thrown carelessly aside, in the room used as an armoury by the Derwent and Gibside yeomanry. They were in very bad condition ; but by dint of indus trious patching and pasting, with great care and labour, they now form eighteen folio volumes, with perfect indexes to the whole, and are deposited at Streatlam Castle. f " A note made the xxiiith of Nov. Eliz. xii, of all the horsemen at Barnard Castle to serve the Queenes Majestie. Spears, Bow, and Harquebusses : — then to meet the said Earl of Westmerland of Wednes day next, after our hawking; which appointment I kept, but he came not, nor sent, though he were not far thence." Assured of his fidelity, the Earl of Sussex and the Privy Council kept up an unintermitting cor respondence with Sir George,* who says, " Seeing I have a charge of the Quene's Majestie's Castle of Barnard Castle, wherein I have bestowed my small portion of armor and weapon, and meaneth yf there be any further assembly, to draw thither." The Earl of Sussex, in one of his letters, says, " Suerly you deserve grete thanks for your dylygence in advertysements, which the quene shall well understand ; and I pray you to contynue them, for I wyll grownd moste upon that [which] cometh from you." Thus trusted and complimented, Sir George devoted all his political tact and military skill to the circumven tion of the insurgents. On the 15th of November, he writes, " I thought yt good to begin th' assemblye here (at Barnard Castle), where ys alredye corned unto me, with greate haste, and well appoynted, to serve as light horsemen, the whole gentlemen dwellinge upon the ryver of Teyse of both syds, whose names I thoughte good to advertyse your lordship of. And as I judge, they brought with them ny abowt a hundred lighte horsemen, well mounted, and armed with playte coyts and speares, and I have of my owne verye nye an hun dred light horsemen. And there ys also assembled hether of the countrethes next adjoynyng, two hundred able men, armed and weaponed with playte coy t, jack, bowes and arrows, and bylles, and twenty corslets of my owne, and thirtie arquebusses ; the effect of which nomber ys a choyse of my owne tenants and others under my rewle, of the quene's majestie's tennants of Barnard Castell lordship. f And most dewtyfullie and obedyentlye the people nye these parts assemblythe SP. BO. H. SP. BO. H. Sir George Bowes . . 50 40 0 Ninyan Girlington . 1 1 0 John Conyers .... 6 8 0 Raphe Taylboise . . 2 1 1 Robert Bowes 12 8 4 Thomas Calverley . . 2 0 0 Christ. Rokeby 4 2 0 Richard Clarvax . . 2 2 0 Marmad. Vincent . . 4 4 0 John Laysenbye . . 1 1 2 Christ. Wyvell 1 1 0 Roger Burgh e 1 1 0 John Savre 1 5 0 John Doddesworthe 1 1 0 William Wycliffe . . 1 1 0 John Doddesworthe 1 0 0 Anth. Kattericke . . 1 1 0 WiUiam Grant 1 0 0 John Wytham 1 1 0 Robert Byerley .... 1 0 0 Christ. Wandisford 1 1 0 Christ. Askwithe . . 1 0 0 John Blaixton 4 0 0 Robert Askwithe . . 1 0 0 Robert Bowes . . . 1 0 0 Raphe Croft 0 1 0 Bertram Anderson 1 0 0 Edward Toppam . . 0 1 0 John Hedworth . . . 0 1 1 3 0 0 Total Nich. Girlington . 104 85 7" CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 49 styllj whereof the best lyke, in person and furnyture, I staye, and the reste with thanks, and good words, I returne home." Speaking of the depredations com mitted by the frebels, he says, " They soght for my children, where they were at scole, but yesterdaye I brought them hyther." On the 29th November, this sturdy loyalist writes, " They mean to holde me shett with ther horsemen, cuttinge me from my vyttales, and to break my mylls, all which lyethe a good waye from me, save one, which ys beyond the ryver, but lyethe nye the Castell, and, therefore, I truste gardable; but I am indifferentlye well provyded, thoo they tooke from me thirtie quarters of malte and a good portyon of wheate, by good intelli- gens then had (as I feare). They everye day come and offer scrymyshinge, and beareth in our scoute and scowryers ; but we take noo layrom, but kepethe close, for cawses [which] shall after be tolde to your lordship. Sewer hayste ys requyred ; for their ys moo made wormes than ys yett cropen owte of the shelles, which, by a spedye wynter, may have their horns holden in. — The whole number here lyeth to be vytteled of my provysyons onelye (for lacke of moneye), and yet moste of them verye well satysfyed, and plentye; and the soldyers vyttelled for three pence the male." Having, with his little troop,* fortified himself in the Castle, " Even nowe," says he, " the rebells, with the two Erlles, hath plantyd to me, butt not rownde : ther fotmen ys butt comynge. They offerde somons, which I, by shetynge (shooting) a gunne over hys head, re fused, and wold suffre no man to speake to theyme. Your L. knowythe the stayt of this howsse ; but yff I had the 300 shotte, to come frome Berwyck, hear, I shuld beat theym owtt of the toune which they have taken. We vewe theyr horsmen to be abowt 1,200, all whyche standythe within fawcone shotte, which we lacke, and kepethe that we have choyssle (carefully), for feare of ferther lacke. We loke for releaffe at your * A document containing the following particulars, but without a date, appears to apply to this period : — Watch and Ward, Barnard Castle. Over part of the many Gates — Mr. Wyvill, Christopher Wandisford, Mr. Dodsworth, 21. The West Gate House— Robert Wycliffe, 4; Mr. Blakiston, 11; IS. The Stable joining the Lords Stable — John Conyers, 4 ; Christopher Wandisford, 4 ; Byran Smithson, 2 ; 10, The Stable within Brackenbury Tower — The Constable, 5 ; Henry Wandesford, 2 ; Leonard Bennes, 1 ; Francis Parkinson, 1 ; 9. Lords Stable, Bowes Tower, Stable in the South WaU — Sir George Bowes, 13 ; his servants, 16 ; his servants, 3 ; 32. The House within many Gates, the west end of Constable Tower — Robert Bowes, 34 ; Mr Blakiston, 4 ; 38. Lordship, whoes settyng forthe butt one dayes jorney owtt of Yorke, I trust wold feare (frighten) theyme, and Yorkshire ys now clene swepyd of theyme. Not withstanding many of those that came home from them receyving theyr vyttayles, and gettinge such money as they cold, ar retorned to them agayn; but yf some soldyers were shewen, I fully hope yt wold do much good. Fynally, I have, and shall serve dewtyfully; and so long as I shall leve, I shall keep my faythe and treuthe to our good Quene Elizabeth unspotted. — It were convenyant that some of good credytt were sent into Cumberland, without which, Symon Musgrave (who ys very forward and willing in thys service, and so ys the L. Scrope, but not so well inclyned as the other ys) lytle will be done for the servyce ; and, ther- fore, the said Symon ys mete to serve. — Thus having myne eares full of ther shoting, and informed that ther fyve peces of ordynance now in sight, which I think they meane this nyght to plant, I humbly take my leave. From the Quenes Majesties Castell of Barnard Castell, in haste, the first of December, 1569. — Yt is necessary that we be hastely releved." On the 6th of December, a sally was made by 200 horsemen, two of whom were slain and 30 taken by the rebels. An immense mass of depositions occur in the Bowes Papers respecting the skirmish, to prove the damage clone, and to implicate those who took a part in it. Sir George sent forth a party of horse, with cattle, from the west gate, to be placed in the park. Some of the horsemen were taken, and stripped to their " dub- lets and hose ;" and their horses were sold by the cap tain, and the money distributed to the men. Captains Robynson, Tatam, and Metcalfe are named ; and Sampson Norton appears to have held a high command, f The difficulties experienced by Sir George during the siege, and the manner of its termination, are nar rated in a note from Lords Sussex, Hunsdon, and Sir R. Sadler, to the privy council : — " It may please your The Constable Tower — Mr TaUboys, 6 ; Griffith Kenyston, 1 ; my mother, 3 ; Mr. Tonge, 4 ; 14. In the Hall end — Mr. Vincent, 6 ; of mine own, 6 ; 12. The Hall head — Mr. John Conyers, 13 ; Mr Robert Bowes men, 3 ; Mr. Bainbridge, 3 ; Little Robert Bowes, 4 ; Mr. Robert Askwith, 2 ; Mr. Christopher Askwith, 2 ; Mr. Girlington, 5 ; Mr. Nicholas Gir- Ungton, 22 ; 33. West Side, hard to the many Gates — Mr. Sayer, 11 ; Mr. Metcalf, 1 ; 12. The East side of many Gates— Mr. Rookby, 7 ; Mr. Hall, 3 ; Mr. Clerke, 2; 12. t In the siege of Barnard Castle, the rebels killed five men, three within and two without. On the night of the skirmish, they wounded, with arquebus shot, 67 within the castle. 50 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. good LL. This day Sir George Bowes, Robert Bowes his brother, and diverse of the gentlemen that were with him in Barnay Castell, came hether to us; by whom we understand that the soldiers that were in the Castell did daily, by great nombers, leape over the walls to go to the rebells.* And on Friday last, ther leaped over the walls, at one tyme, abowt the number of fourscore ; since which tyme, they have growen to such mutenies, as, upon Saturday, vii or viii score of them, that were appointed to garde the gates, and had alwaies ben of the best disposed, did sodenly sett open the gats, and went to the rebells ; wherupon Sir George Bowes, seing the falshode of his men, was driven to composicon, and is, with all his men, horses, and armor that remayned there, come away in saulftie. He hath had longe lacke of drink, and was scanted of bread ; and yet, if his men had ben trewe, he mighte and wold have kepte it untill he had ben releved. He hath served very faithfully and stoutly, and the rebells have spoiled him of all he hathe, so as his losse is very greate ; and yet it semeth the delivery of the Castell, by the falshode of his men, doth greve him more than all his losses, although, considering he and the gentle men be in saulfty, we finde the rebells have smale comoditie by the Castell. We have made the greater haste forwards upon hope that when we sholde come towards the river of Teise, the rebells wold lew the seege ; and that being now at an ende, we will marche forwards' more easely. We thinke it will be two dayes longer before we come where the rebells be. Cesame, by Toplif, 12 Dec, 1569." Whilst Sir George Bowes was closely besieged in Barnard Castle, the rebels took possession of his castle of Streatlam, and destroyed, or carried away, the whole of his goods, after having committed every possible excess. On this subject, he says, " At my comyng abrode, my storers and kepers off my houses repayred to me with the sayme speache that Jobes servants to him (save only for my children) ; for I am utterly spoylled off all my goodes, bothe within and without my housses ; and all my corn and cattle karried away ; * Sir George himself thus describes his difficulties : — " I was be- seged by the rebells, and contenewing there in strayte seage, wythe very hard dyett and great want of bread, drynck, and water, which was our onely dryncke, save I myxed yt with some wyne. I founde the people in the Castle in continuall mutenyes, seakyng not only, by greatt nombers, to leape the waUes and run to the rebells. but also by aU menes to betraye the pece (a fortified place), and with open force to deliver yt, and aU in yt, to the rebells. So far, as in one daye and nyght, two hundred and twenty six men leapyd over the walles, and opened the gaytes, and went to the enemy ; of which and my housses fully defaced, by pulling away off the dores, wyndowes, irons off the windows, syling, and all my brewe vessels and other vessels, and chymnees apperteyning my kytchyn ; so that I now possess no thing but my horse, armor, and weapon, brought out from Barnard Castle, which I more esteem than twenty times so much off other things; for that by yt I am enablyd to serve my good quene, whom God preserve, and 1 wey not all my losses." To repair those losses, the Earl of Sussex gave him the household goods of the Earl of Northumberland, remaining at Brackenbo- rough and Topcliff, by grant, dated the 16th of De cember, 1569, and confirmed by the commanders of the southern army, the Earl of Warwick and Edward Lord Clinton, on the 27th. On the suppression of the rebellion, Sir George was created, by special patent, Provost Marshal North of the Trent ; an office which gave him an opportunity of wreaking his vengeance on the enemies of the queen and himself, and which he is said to have exercised with great severity. There can be no doubt that he executed this duty with the same stern fidelity with which he had perilled life and property on behalf of the queen ; and the usual warrant of execution was an order from him, to persons in the immediate neighbour hood of the prisoners, on whom he could rely. The notices were brief, as will appear from the following example : — " xxij die Jan. " Men of Craven to be executed nyhe the townes where they dwel led. — Throffeld — Robert Araye. Bylleston — Richard Kaley. Hanlyth — Wm. Scranston. " I wUl that you, Henry Girlington, Thomas Rolandson, George Unes, and Richard Garthe, do see the execution of these above naymed, in some place nyghe the towns where they dweUed. "Hanlyth — Wm. Lawson to be hangman, and so discharged. (Signed) " George Bowes." Then foUows an order for the discovery of their property : — " I will that you, George TJnes, do inventorye the goods of these men, within named to be executed ; promysing the wyffes and clnldren, that I will be good with theyme. — Inquer for leases. (Signed) " George Bowes." But it must be remembered that the instructions under which Sir George Bowes acted were of the most nomber, thirty five broke their necks, legges, or armes in the leaping. Upon which especyall extremytyes, and that day our water that we had, by the intelligens off them that fled from us, being strayt, or taken away, and by other great occasyons, I was forced, by composytyon offered, to leve the pece ; takying with me all the men, armor, wea pons, and horses ; levyng my household stuffe, which I made no ac- compt off, in this tyme of servyce, tho the valewe wer greatt, so as the enemyes receyed only the bare pece and stuff aforesaid, which, by the causses aforesayd, I could holde no longer." It would appear, from the above, that the enemy had cut off the water-pipes from the Flatts. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 51 positive nature, and extremely sanguinary character. On the 4th of January, 1569 (70), the Earl of Sussex, in a note to Cecil, says, " 300 and odd be appointed in the county of Duresme to be exequuted by marciall lawe : — Of the citie of Duresme, the aldermen and townsmen XXX, Of constables .... XL. Of servinge men, of the meaner sorte and worst disposition, taken prysoners XXX. Of townesmen of Darneton XVI. Of the countrey men appointed to be exequited in every towne where they dweU .... CLXXII. Of those thatdidleape over the waUes at Barny Castle .. XX. xx. Whereof, at Duresme .... IIII. At Darneton .... XLI. At Barny Castle .. XX. In towns and viUages in the contrey CLXXII." In the execution of his dreadful duty, Sir George says, " I have taken such order with thes that dealeth with the goods of thos executed, that they should deale favorable with the wyfes and children, so as they might [not] onely not have cause to complane, but be satis fied ; and, so far as I knowe, so they are ; for in all Darneton, by this composicon, I caused [to] make for me an agrement with the wyfes, cometh but to £viii ; for wher I fynde them, and hathe many children, I take nothing at all. And for the more favering of them, I have committed the doyeng hereof to the wor shipful neighbours, with instructions to favor the poor, and to deal favorable with all." On the 10th of January, the Earl of Sussex writes to Sir George, " I have sett the nombers to be executed in every towne, under the name of every towne, as I did in your other book, which draweth nere to two hundred ; . wheryn you may use your dyscretyon in takyng more or lesse in every towne as you shall see juste cause for the offeuces and fitness for example, so as in the hole you passe not of all kynde of such, the nomber of two hundred ; amongst whom you may not execute eny that hathe freholds, or noted welthye ; for so is the Quenes Majesties plesior, by her speciall comandment." Though thus armed with an almost discretionary power to put to death or save alive, it appears that Sir George's measures, energetic as they were, were not sufficiently prompt to satisfy the vengeance of his royal mistress and her ministers. On the 14th of January, * The deplorable state of the bishopric is thus described by Bishop Pilkington, in a letter dated January 4 : — " The cuntre is in grete mysere; and, as the shireff writes, he can not doe justice bi anie the Earl of Sussex writes to him, " It is thought that the executyons be very longe in doynge, and I fere the Quenes Majestie wyll fynde cause of offence with her charge contynued so longe for that purpose ; and, ther- for, I praye you make all the haste you can, to avoyde offence, for a lyttell matter wyll styrre offence where charge growethe by it." And on the 19th, Sir George was again admonished, " I receyved, yesternight, letters from the corte, wherby I perceyve the Quenes Majestie doth much marvell, that she dothe not here from me that the execution is yet ended ; and that she is disbur dened of her charges, that was consydered for that re- specte ; and, therfore, I hartely praye you to use expedyton, for I fere this lyngeryng wyll brede dys- plesor to us bothe." The minutes of the courts which Sir George held for the trial of the parties implicated, are not preserved ; and the proceedings must have been brief and expedi tious, as the queen was so impatient to be relieved from further expense. Sir George states that he executed none but such as confessed that they had been in actual rebellion two days, at least, after the expiration of the first pardon, or who took an active part in exciting their neighbours.* In the mean while, Sir George's private resources were crippled by the exertions he had made ; and he laid his case before her majesty as follows : — " The humble Petition of Sir George Bowes. " To the Queene's Most Excellent Mat»- " In moste humble wise besechith y* Ilighnes. Yor obedient sub ject and faithfull s'unte George Bowes, of Stretlam, in the countie palatine of Duresme, Knight, that whereas y Matie saide subject in I testificac'on of his dewtifuli good harte towards yor Highnes, and to advaunce yo' Matie against the late rebelle in the Northe, hath truly s'ved your Maa« against the ungodly and unnaturall attempt of the said rebeUe ; and in all that late s'vice sustayned such great charge in the furnyture and execuc'on of the same, and suche extreme losses by the spoyles of his goodes and houses defaced, as w'out yr Matie gracious reUef and goodness to be extended towards him, he shaU neither be hable to recover and hold his former estate, nor yet be hable to s've y Ma'ie in suche caUinge and sorte as before he hath done, and as he is most desyrous duringe his whole life to doe, being fullie resolved and redye therein to bestowe his life, landes, and aU that he possesses. Maie it therefore please yor most excellent Ma4'8, of your bountifull goodness towards yor said subject, to graunt to him and his heires in fee simple landes and ten'ts of the yearly value of one hundred markes of the possessions of the late rebells in the Northe attaynted ; and also lands and ten'ts of the yearly rent of eleven pounds of the possessions of the late dissolved monastarye of Fountaine, in the countie of Yorke, now in th' occupac'on of yor saide subject, lying undevydeablie together with other landes in Cowton, a number of juries of such as be untouched in this rebeUion, unto thei be auther quited by law, or pardoned bi the Q. Majestie. The num ber off offenders is so grete, that few innocent are left to trie the giltie.'' 52 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. manor of yoT said subjecte, gevinge to your Highness for the sama ninetene hundreth marks, to be paid in fower yeares by equaU porc'ons ; or eUs to graunte to yor said subject and his heires in fee farme, one hundred pounds by yeare, p'ceU of yor Matie crowne pos sessions, givinge to yor Highnes for the same fourtene hundreth pounds, to be paid in fower yeares by equal porc'ons ; and also to paie to yo1 Ma'k, yor heires and succsssors, th' accustomed rent and ffarme. And yor Highnes saide subject shaU, is he is most bounden, gladly employe himself and all that he hath in yor Ma'ie s'vice, and contynuallie praye unto God to grant unto yor Matie a long and most prosperous reigne over us yr most humble and faithfuU subjects." At length, on the 4th of November, 1572, Sir George received, as the reward of his loyalty, some portions of the forfeited estates, amongst which were Bradbury and the Isle, Bradley, and Markenfield in Yorkshire ; but these, in each case, were burthened with a heavy reserved rent. The letters patent state that the queen had granted to him and to John Hutton and David James, the lordship of Bradley, being part of Robert and Michael Tempest's estate, attainted ; the lordship of Scruton, and Markington, in co. York, part of the estate of Thomas Markenfield, attainted ; with all the privileges and customs in Bradley, Rogerley, Frosterley, Sonneyside, Blackbank, Dayborne-syde, Newlandside, Rucopp, and Wolsingham, in co. Durham; and in Scruton and Markington, in co. York ; also, four mes suages and 120 acres of land in Colierly, with the messuage in Vyhurst (alias Ivyhurst), and Lince ; and three mess, in Murdon als Morden ; and one mess, in Brusplatte, part of the said Tempest's estate, in co. Durham ; two mess, in Sunderland, part of John Swin- borne's estate, attainted ; one mess, called Carter House, in Fishbourne, part of Tempest's estate ; one mess., * The wUl of this gentleman, who died unmarried in 1599, is pre served in the Consistory Court of York. As a description of the wardrobe of a fine gentleman of that period, its insertion may furnish a relief to the important, but somewhat gloomy history of his prede cessor : — •'¦ In the name of God, Amen. The foure and twentieth day of June, in the xlis'year of the raigne of our Soveraigne Ladie Quene Elizabeth, I Richard Bowes, of Richmond, within the countie of Yorke, Esquier, sicke in bodie, but of perfect remembrance, &c, declare this my last wUl and testament. I commit my soule unto Almightie God my Creator, and my body to be buried in the church of Richmond. Item, I give unto my brother, Talbot Bowes, my two stoned horses, my two gray nagges, and my dainty pasing black nagge. Item, I give more unto my brother Talbot a paire of britches of haire colered velvet, thicke laid over with silver lace, a white satan dublet, and a paire of silver colered silke stockings. Item, to my brother Thomas my lease of the tythes of GaynfoTth. Item, to my sayd brother a sewte of haire colered satann, a black taffatie cloke, lined with sarcenet, and laced about the skirtes and down the bodie with a large blacke silke lace. Item, I give further to my said bro ther a paire of purple silke stockingcs. Item, I give to my brother five closes, and two copices of wood, called Dalbanlt- spring and Middleton-spring, co. York, out of Marken- field's estate; and three mess, in Unthank, in parish of Romykirk ; and the mess, in Ellerton with Bolton, Laverton, Grantley with Hungate, and Kirk Staynley, the said Markenfield's estate. Bradley, Scruton, &c, to be held, in capite, by the service of the fortieth part of a knight's fee ; paying various charges. The constant engagements of Sir George Bowes in public life prevented his frequent residence at Streat lam. He was elected M.P. for Knaresborough in the short parliament of 1571 ; and, in 1572, he represented the borough of Morpeth. On the 27th July, 1576, he was appointed high sheriff of the county palatine by the queen; and in 1579 he was governor of Berwick. He died at Streatlam on the 1st of August, 1580, aged 53, and was buried in the family vault at Barnard Castle. His character for loyalty is summed up by Christopher Rokeby, Esq., of Mortham Tower — "He was the sureste pyllore the Quens Majestie had in thes partes." The children of Sir George Bowes by his first wife, Dorothy Mallory, were, Sir William, who succeeded him (see Bradley, vol. i., p. 643); Robert, bred to the profession of the law, but killed in the Keswick mines, 1600; George, of Biddie Waterville; Henry, married Anne Carnaby, of Kelso, and died without issue in 1603; Elizabeth, married to Sir Christopher Wandesford, of Kirklington, Yorkshire ; Agnes, mar ried to Sir John Conyers, of Sockburn ; and Jane, died unmarried. By his second wife, Jane Talbot, the Knight Marshal had five sons, Francis, Talbot, Richard,* John threescore and six poundes ten shUlings and eight pence. Item, unto my said brother John my seute of plain blacke satann, a large blacke cloake, and a long pheson (pheasant) colered cloake laid about the skirts and color (coUar) with goulde lace, my two fether beddes with the furniture, a canopie, a pair of hollin shittes (HoUand sheets), and a paire of hoUin pUlow biers. Item, to my sister HUton my gould rhige set with diamond : Item, I wUl that my executor make two like unto it, the one whereof I give to my sister Agnes Bowes, the other to my sister Hutton. Item, to my sister Jane vii. vis. vnid. Item, to Ambrose Barnes, s.ls. Item, to Mrs. Anne War- cop a brood (? a brooch, or abroad piece) and plaine goulde ringe, and my scarfe and a cammericke handkerchef, laid about with gould lace and wrought with silke. Item, to my cousin Johnson, parson of Richmond, xxs. and one goulde ring set with a Cornish diamond ; to Arthur Hallewell, xxs. ; to Humphrie Claxton, xxs. ; to Christopher Mickleton, xxxs. Item, to my man Kirton , x&. and a seute of russet fustain and a Scottes sworde. Item, to Annas Blenkinsop, Oil. vis. viiid. and all my ruffes and shertes. Item, to Thomas CaldwaU, my boy, my blacke grogeram seute and a paire of taunye sattan britches, laid thicke with blacke silke lace. The rest of all my goods, movea ble and immoveable, I give to my brother Talbot Bowes, whom I CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 53 Thomas,* and John ; and three daughters, Anne, mar ried, first, to Thomas Hilton, Esq., of Hilton Castle, and, secondly, to John Delaval, Esq., of Dissington, North umberland; Elizabeth (to whom the queen was god mother), married to Sir Timothy Hutton, Knt, of Marske ; and Jane, married, first, to — Chatt ei;ton, of Ireland, and, secondly, to — Peacock. Margery Bowes, fourth sister of the Knight Marshal, was the first wife of John Knox, the Scottish Reformer.f On the death of Sir William Bowes, eldest son of Sir George, in 1611, an entail, created by the latter in 1569, came into operation; and Sir Talbot Bowes, eldest surviving son of the Knight Marshal's second marriage, entered on Streatlam and the other principal estates. It was afterwards arranged by Sir Talbot, with his brother Thomas, that the half of Streatlam, Stainton, Cleatlam, and Barford, should be enjoyed by Sir George Bowes of Biddick, representative of the elder line ; but he sold his right in the two first-named places, for a perpetual rent-charge of £100 per annum, to Matthew Hutton, Esq., of Marske, from whom it was subsequently purchased by the widow of Thomas Bowes, Esq. Cleatlam also, after passing through intermediate proprietors, was eventually united to the principal family estate. Sir Talbot Bowes was elected M.P. for the borough of Richmond eight times. He entertained James I. at Aske, and was knighted by him on the 24th of April, 1617 ; being also master and keeper of the chases, &c, within the lordship of Barnard Castle, and steward of the castle. He married Agnes, daughter of Thomas ordine the full snd sole executor of this my last wUl and testament, to see my debts paide, funeraU charges, legaces, and bequests per formed. In witnes, &c. Richard Bowes. " I am to receive of my cosin Jenison, of Cleasbie, at Martinmas Eve next, x&. ; cousin Rokeby, \l. I owe cousin Blakiston the mer cer, ixZ." , * Thomas Bowes was of Gray's Inn, and of Chelsea, and afterwards of Streatlam. He was sometime a gentleman pensioner. He married Anne, daughter of Thomas Warcop, Esq., of Tanfield, Yorkshire, by whom he had three sons and a daughter. t The acquaintance of Knox with the daughter of Richard Bowes, commenced at Berwick, in 1551. Her father and uncle, Sir Robert, were decidedly adverse to the union ; but her mother was constant in her inclination to the connection, and tried every means to obtain her husband's consent. " On the 6th November, 1553," Knox says, " I spake with Sir Robert Bowes on the matter ye know, whose dis dainful, yea despiteful words have so pierced my heart, that .my life is bitter to me." They were married in 1553. She accompanied her husband to France in 1556, as weU as her mother ; and they are men tioned as being at Geneva, 13 Sept., 1556. Many of the letters of Knox are addressed to Mrs. Bowes, whom he always designated by the appeUation of mother. Mrs. Knox died In 1560, and Mrs. Bowes Warcop, of Smardale, Westmoreland, and died without issue in February, 1637-8. Talbot Bowes, Esq., (who succeeded,) was the eldest son of Thomas, fourth son of Sir George's second mar riage. He died in December, 1654, and was succeeded by his next brother, Thomas. Being imbued with the hereditary loyalty of the family, a heavy fine was im posed upon him as a delinquent, on payment of which he received a certificate from the committee sitting at Newcastle, dated September 27, 1649. He married Anne, daughter and co-heiress of Anthony Maxton, chaplain to Charles I., rector of Wolsingham, and pre bendary of Durham. He died in February, 1706 ; and to the prudence of his widow, during a period of 30 years after his death, the family are indebted for the re-annexation of much of their original property. By this lady, Thomas Bowes had six sonsj and five daughters. The three first-born sons died in infancy; and the fourth, William, became successor to the estates. He was born in 1656 ; admitted of Trinity College, Cam bridge, May 26, 1672; and entered of Gray's Inn, June 4 of the same year. He was employed abroad under Sir Leoline Jenkins ; and, after the peace of Nimeguen, travelled into France and other European countries. He was elected M.P. for the county of Durham in August, 1679, and also in 1680, 1695, 1702, and 1705. On the 13th of April, 1684, he was knighted by Charles II. at Whitehall; and on July 15, 1685, he received the appointment of master forester and chief warden of all the king's forests and chases in hi 1572. Letters are extant addressed by Mrs. Bowes to Knox, and couched in the most affectionate language. The circumstances of this connection place the domestic character of Knox in a, favourable light. By this marriage he had two sons, Nathaniel and Eleazar, both educated in St. John's CoUege, Cambridge, where the elder pro ceeded A.B. and A.M., and died Fellow of the Society in 1580. Ele azar was B.D., vicar of Clacton Magna, Essex, and preacher of the University. He was buried in St. John's chapel in 1591. Both died without issue, The only notice of the family in the Bowes papers is in a letter from Thomas Appleby, Sir George's servant, to his master, dated London ,May 29, 1580 ; — "The seneor Knox, your nephewe, who procedid Mr. of A rte sence Easter, was buryed at Cambridge yesterday, and disseasid uppon Frydaye in the afternoone. His sick ness was, they write, a tertiane ague, and he hath had it aboute xiiii. dayes before God toke him to his mercye." J John, the fifth son, born 1658, was of Trinity College, A.M., 1684 ; S.T.P., 1698 ; rector of Elwick, 1701 ,• of Bishopwearmouth, 1715 ; prebendary of the 5th stall, 1696; of the first stall, 1712; died un married on the 14th of January, 1721-2, and was buried in Durham Cathedral. George, the sixth son, born 1659, was solicitor- general to Bishop Crewe, and recorder of the city of Dnrliam. He married Anne, daughter of Anthony Salvin, Esq., of Sunderland Bridge, and widow of Gilbert Machon, Esq. ; and he died without issue on May 14, 1724. 54 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. the lordship of Barnard Castle, Teesdale, and Mar wood. In 1688, he raised a troop of horse, which were reviewed on the Palace Green, Durham, by Bishop Crewe, as Lord Lieutenant of the county ; and it is said that higher honours were proffered to Sir William, had he been disposed to accept them. He married Elizabeth, eldest daughter and at length sole heiress of Sir Francis Blakiston, Bart, of Gibside, by Anne, daughter of Sir George Bowes, of Biddic, and thus united the two lines of Bowes,, besides adding to the family estates those of Gibside. Sir William died in London, and was buried at Barnard Castle on the 11th of February, 1706, leaving four sons and five daughters. William Blakiston Bowes, eldest son of Sir William, was born January 1, 1697, and admitted a fellow com moner of Trinity College, Cambridge, September 25, 1707. He died intestate on the 7th of October, 1721. Thomas, his next brother, having also died on the 18th of May, 1700, the estates descended to George, third son of Sir William, born August 21, 1701. He was a captain in a regular regiment of horse in 1722, but retired from the service, and was a candidate for the representation of Berwick in the following year. On the 21st of August, 1727, he contested the representa tion of Morpeth ; and, two days afterwards, he was elected M.P. for the county of Durham, which he continued to represent in the successive parliaments of 1734, 1741, 1747, and 1754. He was chairman of the grand jury in the years 1730, 1736, 1741, 1746, 1747, 1750, 1753, and 1757, and was an active and able magistrate. In 1745, he took an active part in raising forces to repel the Pretender ; being appointed deputy J Andrew Robinson Stonet Bowes. — On the death of the Earl, the Countess of Strathmore, then 27 years of age, was not only a pretty, lively, and very accomplished woman, but was considered the best female botanist of the time, and had the character of being literary, having written a dramatic piece, called " The Siege of Jerusalem," in five acts. She was, moreover, in possession of im mense wealth, with the splendid adjuncts of a fine house in Grosvenor Square, a house and extensive gardens and conservatories at Chelsea, the seats of Paul's Walden, Gibside, Barnard Castle, and the castles of Streatlam and Hilton, besides lands in Middlesex. " She possessed a very pleasing en bon point. Her bust was uncommonly fine,' Her stature was rather under the middle class ; her hair brown ; her eyes light, small, and she was near- sighted. Her face was round ; her neck and shoulders graceful; her lower jaw rather underhanging, and which, whenever she was agitated, was moved very uncommonly, as if convulsively, from side to side. Her fingers were small, and her hands exceedingly delicate." Her house in Grosvenor Square was the resort of many literary and scientific men, and in particular of naturalists. Soon after her husband's death, a Mr. Grey, who had made a fortune in India, aimed at her hand, and became an accepted suitor ; but a new candidate appeared, whose arts were too powerful, lieutenant on the 14th of September, a captain of the first troop of horse militia on the 21st, and colonel of the armed association on the 15th of October. Mr, Bowes's first wife, to whom he was united on the 10th of October, 1724, was Eleanor, the beautiful daughter and sole heiress of the Hon. Thomas Verney, eldest son of George Lord Willoughby de Broke, by Eleanor, daughter of Thomas Lord Leigh, of Stoneleigh. She died on the 14th of December following the marriage; and her husband remained a widower until June, 1743, when he married Mary, only daughter and heiress of Edward Gilbert, Esq., of Paul's Walden, Hertfordshire, by whom he had issue, a daughter, named, after both his wives, Mary-Eleanor. He died on the 17th of Sep tember, 1760, and was buried at Whickham. Mary-Eleanor, daughter and sole heiress of George Bowes, Esq., was born on the 24th of February, 1749, and married on her birth-day, in 1767, John Lyon, Earl of Strathmore, son of Thomas, eighth earl, by his wife, Jane, daughter and co-heiress of James Nicholson, Esq., of West Rainton, M.P. for the city of Durham in 1708. In compliance with the will of his wife's father, the earl, by act of parliament, took the name of Bowes. The issue of this marriage were three sons and two daughters. Lady Maria-Jane, the eldest daughter, was born April 2, 1768 ; married at Hallgarth, May 11, 1789, Col. Barrington Price; and died at Cerney, Gloucestershire, April 22, 1806. Lady Anna-Maria, younger daughter, was married at London, January 28, 1758, to Henry-James Jessup, and died March 29, 1832. The earl died on a voyage to Lisbon, March 7, 1776, aged 39.* John Bowes, tenth Earl of Strathmore, born April and his schemes too deeply laid for the competition of ordinary cha racters. This was Andrew Robinson Stoney, Esq., a younger son of a respectable Irish family, bom in 1745. He became a lieutenant in the 30th regiment, which was quartered at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, where he contrived to win the hand of Hannah, daughter and heiress of William Newton, Esq., of Burnopfield, who possessed about £30,000. His regiment being shortly after disbanded, he took up his residence at Cold-Pig Hill, the seat of his wife's ancestors. Mrs. Stoney was an amiabie woman, but was hastened out of the world by the cruelty of her husband, by such ingenious processes as pitching her headlong down a flight of stairs, shutting her up in a closet in her chemise (some say without it) for three days, and feeding her on an egg a day, and by other modes of torture, mental and physical, of which he was an eminent master. Having thus disposed of his first wife, he began, whilst carrying on a system of gaming, cock-fighting, and horse-racing, and visiting watering-places and the petty clubs inSt. James's, to look out for another. His attention was caught by the gay widow of Grosvenor Square, and he determined to make abold stroke for so tempting a prize. The mode by which he set about this was one of the most remarkable and inspn-ed efforts of demoniac genius. There CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 55 11, 1769, was a cornet in the "Blues," November 15, 1786, and captain in the 65th foot, May 15, 1789, but retired from the army, February 2, 1791. He was elected a representative peer of Scotland in 1796, 1802, were, of course, characters about the countess adapted to the pro motion of his object ; and the acquaintance of these he cultivated, corrupted them, and engaged them in his cause. Thus, by flattery, by gallantry, by every possible means, he made his way to the countess through her creatures. His connection in the county of Durham through his first marriage, afforded a plea of introduction ; and, that effected, he made his attack by every stratagem that man or woman could devise. He soon perceived that the countess was of a romantic and visionary turn of mind ; and he therefore got a conjuror tutored to his wishes, and with a female emissary, planned a party in which the countess was to be included, to have their fortunes told. He caused letters to be sent to her, with the Durham postmark on them, purporting to be from a lady, who complained that for the sake of the countess he had forsaken her. In these letters suspicions were thrown out that Mr. Grey, the accepted lover, was in the interest, and supported in his wishes by the relatives of the late Lord Strath more ; a thing which, above aU, was calculated to alarm the countess, and excite a jealousy of their interference. These schemes succeeded ; but the grand stroke was to come. WhUst he was thus cultivating the acquaintance of the countess, a sweeping attack was made on her character, pursuits, and associates in the " Morning Post." Vindications were made by her friends . and repUcations ensued. The attention of the pubUc was attracted ; and the aspersions on the countess became so intolerable, that she declared that whoever would avenge her, by chaUenging and fighting the editor of that paper, should be rewarded with her heart and hand. Stoney, who had himself been the secret assaUant, immediately chaUenged the unwary editor (the Rev. Henry Bate, afterwards Sir Henry Bate Dudley), fought him, and contrived both to wound and be wounded in the affair; and on the 17th January, 1777, only four days after the duel, he was rewarded with the hand of the grateful countess. He soon after assumed the name of Bowes, by his majesty's pleasure. Having thus stepped into the possession of a most splendid fortune, this adventurer, the month following his marriage, offered himself as a candidate to succeed Sir Walter Blackett as one of the representa tives for Newcastle. His opponent, Sir John Trevelyan, Bart., polled 1,163, and Bowes 1,068 votes. The latter lodged a petition, which accused Sir J. Trevelyan of bribery ; but no sufficient proof having been produced, the election was declared valid by a committee of the House of Commons. Bowes now took the house at Hammersmith, which the Margravine of Anspach had just left, and which was afterwards the residence of Queen Caroline, the unfortunate consort of George IV. He cut down much of the valuable timber on the Gibside estate ; but the public were afraid to purchase it, and it lay on his hands. From the Shaftoe famUy he purchased the Ben weU estate, and, in 1780, served the office of high sheriff of the county of Northumberland. This year, he was more successful in his electioneering attempts, being, on September 21, returned member for Newcastle by 1,135 votes. Mr. Delaval petitioned against him ; but nothing was done in the business. At this time, Gibside was the scene of feasting and extravagance ; but the expenses of Bowes's shrievalty, his election contests, his horse- racing, his insurances, and his purchase of Benwell, compeUed him to retreat, in 1793, to Paul's Walden, the seat of Mrs. Bowes, his mother-in-law. The countess, about this time, was delivered of a son; and Mr. Bowes affected much solicitude for her health. Having taken a furnished house in Grosvenor Square, they returned to Lon- VOL. II. and 1807; and on the 7th of August, 1815, was created an English peer, by the title of Baron Bowes, of Streatlam Castle, in the county palatine of Durham, and of Lunedale, in the county of York. The Der- don, where this arch-tormentor continued his malignant practices, While pretending great tenderness to his unhappy wife, it is easier to imagine than describe all the secret villanies and degradations by which such a tyrant can make every moment of a woman of feeling and refinement bitter as death. In the first place, Bowes carried on the most licentious intercourse with women of all kinds. He seduced almost every maid-servant, and all the farmers' daugh ters that he could. He expended on other women great sums in jeweUery and other extravagances ; and he cared not how much of all this came to the knowledge of his wife. Amongst others was a beautiful young woman, one of his farmers' daughters, whom he bad seduced, and for whom he had at one time purchased £50 worth of trinkets in Cockspur Street ; " her mother and sister," says his biographer, " came after dinner, and they all took tea with the countess" In order to sUence his wife, and to hold her in terrorum, as weU as to provide himself with a weapon against her, should she be at any time driven by desperation to seek the protection of the laws against him, he resorted to one of those means which only a first-rate scoundrel could imagine or accomplish. He compelled his wife to write, or wrote for her, " The Confessions of the Countess of Strathmore," in which he made her to draw the strangest picture of herself, and her life before her marriage with him, imaginable. That any woman of education would voluntarily thus sketch out a confession of the grossest infamy against herself, is beyond all conception. The cruel ties and indignities by which she was coerced have not been all re corded ; but one means said to have been employed was to enclose her hair, which was long and very fine, in a chest, and locking it down, keep her thus confined in a lying posture tUl her wiU gave way to his diabolical wishes ! Having extorted from her the " Con fessions," they were " laid behind his pillow by night, and read by him in scraps for his purpose by day. He got them by heart ; they formed a part of his travelling equipage to Paris, and every where else. They were a treasure which he hugged to his bosom, and over which he brooded with a rancorous rapture." Nor did he forget, at the necessary moment, to hand them into a public court of law against his wife. Meanwhile, every mental and physical suffering that in genuity could devise was inflicted upon her. "Her person, ac customed only to distress and confiuement, found no aUeviation of the bitterest sorrow. Mind and body jointly submitted to receive the pressure which Bowes, Uke a mangle, daUy rolled upon them, and both were grievously collapsed." Bowes now commenced a series of stratagems to obtain pos session of the countess's two daughters, who were wards in Chan cery ; and, under the plea that the very life of their mother depended on seeing them, he succeeded in escaping with Lady Anna-Maria, the youngest, to Paris, taking the countess with him. Though he employed the professional powers of the greatest lawyers of their time, Erskine, Law, and Scott, (afterwards respectively Lords Ers- kine, EUenborough, and Eldon), the Court of Chancery compeUed him, in November, 1784, to restore the young lady to her proper protectors. The continued cruelties of Bowes at length roused the mind of the unhappy countess to a paroxysm of desperation ; and she determined to escape from him, and put herself under the protection of the laws. Accompanied by a faithful waiting maid, she contrived, whUst Bowes went out to dine, on the 7th of Februaiy, 1785, to elude the vigilance of his sateUites, and got undiscovered into Oxfoid Street, wdiere, after I 56 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION went infantry and Gibside cavalry were raised, during the late war, at his expense, and were placed under his command. On Sunday, July 30, 1820, he married Miss Mazy Milner, of Staindrop, and died on the day some torturing delay, they entered a hackney coach. Scarcely Was this effected, when they saw Bowes in pursuit, looking out of the window of another coach, without his hat, and driving very fast. Fortunately, he did not see them ; but the escape was so narrow, that the countess, in her low state of health, feU into hysterics, and could with difficulty be persuaded that she was out of danger. She was conducted to the house of Mr Shuter, barrister, in Cursiter Street, and exhibited articles of the peace against her husband in the Court of King's Bench. Bowes took lodgings in the same street, and watched her as a cat would a mouse ; whilst he appealed, as an injured man, to the Courts of Chancery, of King's Bench, and even of Doctors' Commons. He had, however, employment enough of itself to bribe all the maid servants and others whom he had seduced, to silence the cries of their distressed children and to keep hunger and ruin out of the way of any honest justification and strong temptation ; butin spite of all this, there were sufficient who found their way to Doctors' Commons to answer the countess's purpose. The proofs exhibited in court were of the most horrid kind : and to feel the force of them, the rank and sensitive mind of the countess must be taken into consideration, with what she had done for Bowes, and that these inflictions had been the ordinary treatment of long years. They consisted in "beating, scratching, biting, pinching whipping, kicking, imprisoning, insulting, provoking, tormenting, mortifying, degrading, tyrannizing, cajoling, deceiving, lying, starving, forcing, compelling, and a new torment, wringing of the heart." To all these allegations Bowes had little to oppose, exceptthose Confessions which he had had manufactured expressly for such an emergency ; and the trial terminated most decisively in favour of the countess. Bowes was, however, determined not to be foUed ; and he kept a constant watch upon the motions of the countess. Aware of her danger, she took into her weekly pay a constable named Lucas, a highly respectable man, in whom the court had great confidence, but whose honesty was not proof against the temptations of Bowes. This man, on the 10th of November, 1786, inquired of the coachmen, as his custom wes, if his lady went out that day, and was answered in the affirmative, receiving orders to attend between one and two o'clock in the afternoon. About that time, her ladyship had business at a Mr. Foster's, in Oxford Street ; and for company, took Mr. Farrer, brother to her solicitor, and her maid, in the coach with her. In their way they met with no interruption ; but they had scarcely been five minutes in the house of Mr. Foster, before some persons known to be emissaries of Bowes came into the shop. Alarmed at their appear ance, the countess withdrew io an inner room and locked the door, requesting Mr. Foster, at the same time, to go privately and procure assistance, to be in readiness for her protection, in case any violence should be offered. He had scarcely left the house when Lucas tapped at the room door, and, on being admitted, informed her ladyship that she was his prisoner, that a warrant had been put into his hands, that he must do his duty, but that it was rather fortunate for her ladyship, as he would take her before Lord Mansfield at Caen Wood, who, no doubt, would frustrate aU the wicked purposes of her enemies, and take her under his own immediate protection. With this artful tale, in the then state of her mind, she was easily prevailed upon to step again into her coach, as Mr. Farrer was per mitted to acoompany her. The moment she was seated, her servants were all dicharged by a pretended order from her ladyship, a con federate coachman mounted the box, and a new set of attendants, all armed, surrounded the coach. In this manner they proceeded, with- after the nuptial ceremony, in the 52nd year of his age. His estates were not entailed; and he made a full settlement of his property previous to his death. The English barony expired with him ; and a doubt arose out noise or interruption, till they reached Highgate Hill, at the bottom of which stood Mr. BoWes, Who, addressing himself to Mr. Farrer, very civilly requested to change places with him, and then seated himself at the right hand of his lady, who was no longer in doubt as to his design. The coachman was now ordered to proceed, and to quicken his pace. Mr. Farrer, being now at liberty, made all possible haste to London, and application was made immediately to the Court of King's Bench, in order to effect a rescue. Two days afterwards, two of Lord Mans field's tipstaffs set off for that purpose to the North. In the mean time, Bowes continued his journey. At Barnet, fresh horses were ready to put in ; and a post-chaise and four, with some accomplices, were in waiting to attend. Though the windows of the coach were broken, and the lady appeared in great distress, yet not the least effort was made to interrupt their progress ; and it was not tUl the next day at noon, when a servant of Bowes arrived at the Angel inn, at Doncaster, 195 miles from London, that there is any account of their further proceedings. In half an hour, the coach stopped in the street ; and while the horses were being changed, Mr, Woodcock, the master of the inn, handed some cakes to Bowes, which the latter presented to the lady ; but whether she accepted them or not, the landlord could not positively assert. The moment the horses were in harness, they pursued their course northward ; and the next place where they were noticed was Bransby Moor, where the lady was shown into a room, attended by a chambermaid and guarded by Bowes, who hastened her return, and seemed all im patience till she was again seated in the coach. At Ferry Bridge, she had leave to go into the garden ; but Bowes waited at the"" door. What further passed till they arrived at Streatlam Castle remained a secret tUl her ladyship's arrival, in the evening of the 21-t of November, at the house of Messrs. Farrer and Lacy, on Bread Street Hill. The detail she then gave of her sufferings, during the eleven days of absence, was truly pitiable. She stated that, at the time of taking her away, the confederates were all armed ; that, as they drove along, Bowes endeavoured to persuade her to sign « paper, to stop proceedings in the Ecclesiastical Court, and to consent to live under the name and character of his wife, both which she positively refused to do ; that he then beat her on the face and body with his clenched fists; that, when she attempted to cry out, he thrust a handkerchief into her mouth; that, on the most trifling contradiction, while on the road, he beat her with the chain and seals of his watch on the naked breast; and that, at last, provoked by her firmness, he presented a loaded pistol to her head, and threatened her life if she did not instantly sign the paper, but this she was determined never to do. On arriving at Streatlam, he endeavoured to persuade her to take the government of the family, and to act in every respect as his wife, which she still most solemnly refused to do ; on which, in a glow of passion, he pulled out a pistol, bid her say her prayers, and, with a trembling hand, presented it to her head. This, too, failing of effect, he violently beat her, then left her, and she saw no more of him for a whole day, when coming up to the room rather more calm than usual, he asked her if she was not yet reconciled to a dutiful domestic life ; and being answered with some asperity, he flew into a more violent passion than she had ever yet seen him, pulled out the pistol, and bid her say her last prayers— she did say her prayers, and then bid him fire ! By this time, the whole country began to be alarmed for her, and he for his own safety. He, therefore, in order to cover his escape, CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 57 whether a marriage in England, subsequent to the birth of a child, would legitimatize that child in Scotland. The question was determined in the negative ; and the Scottish peerage devolved upon his lordship's youngest brother, the Hon. Thomas-Lyon Bowes, who became Earl of Strathmore, Viscount Lyon, and Baron Glamis, and keep her stiU in his power, ordered two of his domestics to be dressed up so as to personate himself and her ladyship, and to shew themselves occasionally before the windows to appease the populace, and to deceive his pursuers. This stratagem had its full effect ; the people were quiet while they thought her ladyship was safe ; and the sheriff's officers, who were sent to execute the attachment, actually served it on the wrong persons ; while, in the mean time, Bowes took her out a back way ; dragged her, between ten and eleven o'clock, in the dark, to a Uttle cottage in the neighbourhood, where they spent the remainder of the night, and where he behaved to her in a manner shocking to the delicacy of civUized life, by reiterating his threaten- ings, and, finding threats in vain, throwing her on the bed, and flogging her with rods. On leaving the cottage in the morning, he had her set on horseback behind him, without a pillion, and took her over a dismal and trackless course, covered with snow, to Darlington where, in the house of an attorney, which occupied the site of the present Joint Stock Bank, she was shut up in a dark room, and threatened (a red-hot poker being held to her breast) with a mad doctor and strait-waistcoat ; but aU in vain. The hour of deUverance drew near. Here they had been tracked ; the house was beleaguered by the tipstaffs from London ; and it was no longer safe for Bowes to remain. He therefore skulked out the back way, through the Sun inn yard, and set out with her before day, in the same manner that he brought her, taking her over hedges and ploughed fields, till, being seen by the husbandmen at work, he was so closely hemmed in, that an old countryman caught hold of his horse's bridle. Bowes presented his pistol to frighten him, but was knocked down by Christopher Smith, a constable of Neasham, who was in pursuit of him, and felled to the ground with the but- end of one of his own pistols. He had previously endeavoured to cajole the countrymen by offering to reward them if they would conduct him across the Tees. The countess having slipped off the horse, and made herself known, Smith bade the men get sticks, set upon him, and take him at aU events. " Anthony Claxton,'' says he, "put off his hat, and went near Bowes, which I perceiving, bid him put on his hat and be upon his guard ; and seeing Bowes rest his pistol upon the other in the belt, I rushed upon him and seized them both, and called for assistance, when John Walton came and took hold of the horse and led him past me. While Bowes struggled with me, one of the pistol handles broke in my hand ; and by pulling them away, the guard of the trigger cut a piece out of the foremost finger of my right hand. I threw that pistol away, and with the other gave Bowes a blow upon the right side of his head, which knocked him from the horse. Fearing he had more pistols about him, and that he might shoot some of us, I gave him another blow upon the back part of his head, and cut it about two inches. Lady Strathmore asked if he was killed, and desired we would not strike him again ; and several times bade us search his pockets for pistols, and take care he did not shoot some of us. Her ladyship, being then upon her horse before Gabriel Thornton, bade us fareweU. I sent John Gunson away for a surgeon to dress the wound, and took him to EUza Stubbs's tUl Tho. Bowes, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Rudd's man came and dressed the wound, and then carried Bowes away to Mr. Tho. Bowes's house at Darlington And on the Wednesday, he was conducted to London by three men from Lord Mansfield's and Bow Street offices." The countess, Tanadyer, Scidlaw, and Stradichtie. His grandson, Thomas-George Bowes, born September 28, 1822, is the present inheritor of the Scottish titles and estates. The Hon. George Bowes, of Paul's Walden, eldest brother of the tenth Earl of Strathmore, was born November 10, 1771 ; married, June 14, 1805, Mary, meanwhile, made the best of her way to London, attended by some of her deliverers. On the 22d of the month, she appeared in the Court of King's Bench ; but the court being up, no proceedings could that day be had on her case. The next day, she was again presented to the court ; and as soon as the judges were seated, Mr. Law, her council, moved, " That she might exhibit articles of the peace against her husband, A. R. Bowes." The articles were read, and being sworn to and signed, an attachment was immediately granted against Bowes. On the 27th, he was produced at court, to answer the articles. He was dressed in a drab-coloured great coat, with a red sUk handkerchief about his head. He was supported by two men, yet nearly bent double with weakness, in consequence of his wounds. He frequently appeared on the point of fainting ; and his appearance, on the whole, was the most squalid and emaciated that can possibly be imagined. The result of his desperate undertaking was, that he was sentenced to pay a fine of £300 to his majesty ; to be imprisoned in the King's Bench for three years ; and at the end of that term to find security for fourteen years, himself in £10,000, and two sureties of £5,000 each. Lucas, the constable, was very justly sentenced to a fine of £50, and three years imprisonment hi Newgate ; and the other ac complices received proportionate punishments. The countess ob tained a, sentence of divorce from Doctors' Commons, and in her exultation at her liberation, wrote the following epitaph on the faUen villain, and sent it by Lady Strathmore to Bowes in the King's Bench prison ; — • " Here Rests, Who never rested before, The most ambitious of men ; for he sought not Virtue, wisdom, nor science, Yet rose by deep hypocrisy, by the Folly of some, and the vice of others, To honours which nature had forbade, and Riches he wanted taste to enjoy. He saw no faults in himself, nor any worth in others. He was the enemy of mankind ; Deceitful to his friends, ungrateful to his benefactors, cringing To his superiors, and tyrannical to his dependants. If interest obliged him to assist any fellow creature, he regretted the Effect, and thought every day lost in which he made none wretched. His life was a continual series of injuries to society, Disobedience to his Maker ; and he only lamented in despair That he could offend them no longer. He rose by mean arts To unmerited honours, which expire before himself. Passenger ! examine thy heart, If in aught thou resemblest him ; And if thou dost — Read, tremble, and reform ! So shall he, who living was the pest of society, When doad, be, against his will, once useful to mankind." The remainder of Bowes's life, which continued for 22 years after his trial, was spent in prison, or within the rules of one ; first, in the State Rooms ; then, within the walls of the Bench ; and about 58 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. daughter of Edward Thornhill, Esq., of Kingston Lisle, Berkshire ; and died without issue, December 3, 1806. His widow, in December, 1811, married Col. Barrington Price, widower of Lady Maria- Jane Bowes (see page 54). the last 12 years, within the rules in St. George's Fields. But he was by no means idle during this period. Law and intrigue still continued to be his favourite pursuits. Soon after his marriage with the countess, he discovered that she had contrived and signed a deed, reserving to herself the estates left by her father whether she mar ried or remained single^ This deed he had induced her to revoke. She had also been considerably in debt, and joined Bowes in a deed, granting annuities to the yearly amount of £3,000 for the countess's life, by which measure £24,000 was raised. In order to secure the payment of these annuities, certain parts of the estates, in which the countess had a Ufe interest, were vested in trustees, who were to pay the surplus, if any, to Bowes and the countess. By the decision of the Court of Chancery in 1785, the deed of revocation, which he had forced the countess to sign, was declared a nullity ; and it was re ferred to a Master in Chancery to take an account of the rents received by Bowes since the commencement of the suit ; a large sum was reported to be due from him ; and a receiver of the rents and profits was appointed. A long train of litigation followed, during which, on the 20th of April, 1800, the countess died ; when Bowes moved from the Bench to St. George's Fields. In June, 1807, the deed of revocation was brought before Sir James Mansfield, and a Verdict was fouud in favour of the Earl of Strathmore, which ter minated Bowes's legal transactions. During this time, his tricks and contrivances were innumerable. He could be Ul at pleasure — asthma tic — spitting blood from the rupture of a vessel, but in reality having swaUowed calves' blood for the purpose — and sick to death in a coach, when called to appear before the Court, having provided him self with a dose of ipecacuanha in readiness for such an occasion. He laid aU manner of schemes to cheat all whom he had any thing to do with, even the husbands of his sisters, on pretence of leaving them his BenweU estate, provided they guaranteed him an annuity ; and what shewed his extreme cunning was, that he contrived to fleece a whole series of attorneys, one after another, making them advance money to him whUe he employed them in his lawsuits, tiU they each in turn refused to advance any more. These exploits gave him the highest delight. Amongst the catalogue of his villanies in seduction, the most strange is that of a respectable young woman, whom he used to see as she went to visit her father in prison, who had been a man of large landed property, but had ruined himself by keeping a pack of hounds. This young lady had five children by him, which were ties of such strong affection to her, that they made her undergo all the cruelties she suffered at Bowes' hands rather than be separated from them. Indeed, he kept her locked up in a room by herself, and she was literally a. prisoner in his house from 1787 to the day of his death. He watched her, notwithstanding, with the most vigilant and inquisitive jealousy. On one occasion, a gentleman had chambers in the King's Bench which happened to face those of the apartment in which he kept this young lady. The gentleman could not look out of his window without Bowes imagining instantly that he was in love with the fair captive. He therefore dressed himself up in her clothes, and flirted with this gentleman at the window. This he re peated for many successive mornings, and had satisfactorily engaged the gentleman's attention. When he had worked up his plot, and brought his deception to the proper pitch, Bowes threw open the window, shook off his female dress, and displayed his own proper The dowager Countess of Strathmore, widow of the tenth earl, was married at St. George's, Hanover Square, London, on the 16th March, 1831, to William Hutt, Esq., then M.P. for Kingston-upon-Hull, and now for Gateshead. Her son, John Bowes, Esq.. of person, laughing, insulting, and jeering by breaths, as he could do in a manner to confound those whom he had caught in his toils. The poor man was so disconcerted, that he was not visible for a long time after. His amusements and habits of life became lower as he grew older ; and they were the more demonstrable, as he not only drank his wine selfishly, but also took to spirituous liquor. He kept no servant; and would buy neither brushes nor brooms, but the two daughters — daughters of the locked-up lady — went down upon their knees, and gathered up the dirt with their hands. To induce new and unwary attorneys to bite, and advance money, he would pretend that he would sell his estates — BenweU, deeply mortgaged, and a property which had fallen to him in Ireland, with about three hundred a-year : and would make a grand display of this propertv ; would produce the reports of surveyors who had valued it, at the same time that he pleaded his great necessities, his own tattered appearance, and the state of his chUdren, whom he contrived should be seen without shoes or stockings. He would even name the day of sale ; yet he never sold, always having in the mean time effected his purpose of spunging his dupe. At the last extremity, this extraordinary man made his wiU, leaving something to each of his children by the captive lady, but not even mentioning her in it who had so long suffered all his tyrannies, capri cious cruelties, and asperities of temper, with the most exemplary patience, and with every endeavour to the last moment to contribute to his comfort. It was not without the earnest entreaties and tears of his and her own children, and by the persuasions of Mr. Foote, that he was at the last moment prevaUed on to name her with £100 per annum. His death took place on the 16th of January, 1810. Mr. Jesse Foote, surgeon, who concludes his biography of Bowes with the pithy sentence, " He was a villain to the back-bone !" thus describes him : — " His speech was soft, his height more than five feet ten, his eyes were bright and small, he had a perfect command over them, his eyebrows were low, large and sandy, his hair light, and his complexion muddy ; his smile was agreeable, his wit ready, but he was always the first to laugh at what he said, which forced others to laugh also. His conversation was shaUow, his education was bare, and his utterance was in a low tone and lisping. There was some thing uncommon in the connexion of his nose with his upper lip ; he never could talk without the nose, which was long and curved down wards, being also moved ridiculously with the upper lip.'' Another writer describes Bowes as possessing the most fascinating manners, and as being witty, hospitable, and convivial, and a most pleasant table companion. He lived on terms of great intimacy and friendship with the late Duke of Norfolk, and Mr. Lee, the celebrated lawyer, for some time attorney-general ; and, in early life, he was respected by both the Scotts, afterwards Lords Stowell and Eldon. That Bowes, even in later times, retained some opulent friends is certain, or he never could have obtained security to the amount of £14,000 for the privilege of the Rules of the King's Bench prison. He had a sister, who married the Hon. Arthur Moore, judge of the Common Pleas in Ireland. The issue of Bowes by his marriage with the Countess of Strathmore, were, 1, William Johnstone Bowes, born May 8, 1782, at Paul's Walden, Ueut. R.N., lost in the BleDheim, with Sir Thomas Trowbridge, 1S07 ; 2, Mary, resided for some time at Bath, unmarried. CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 59 Streatlam Castle, is proprietor of the English estates of the junior branch of the ancient family of Bowes. He was elected M.P. for the Southern Division of the county of Durham in July, 1837, in July, 1841, and in January, 1847. Arms op Bowes op Streatlam — 1. Ermine, three long bows Gules. 2. Argent, a cross flory inter four martlets Vert, Dalden. 3. Azure, a maunch Or, Conyers. 4. Azure, a maunch Or, an annulet for differ ence, Conyers of Cowton. 5. Barry of Or and Azure, Aske. 6. Azure, five fusils in fesse. Crest — On a wreath, a sheaf of six arrows, salterwise Or, banded Gules. STREATLAM CASTLE. The original castle of Streatlam is supposed to have been built by the Baliols, and was the residence of the ancient family of Trayne, predecessors of the Boweses. Sir William Bowes, as has been seen, rebuilt the castle from the ground about 1450. That it was a place of considerable strength may be inferred from the fact, that though Sir George Bowes threw himself into Barnard Castle on the 27th of November, 1569, yet Streatlam was not taken by the rebels till the 4th December. They evacuated it on the 16th of the same month; but during the brief period of its occupation by them, every species of wanton excess and depreda tion had been committed. The glass windows and iron stancheons had been torn out, and every thing carried away which could be removed; so that the loss sus tained by Sir George was estimated, at Streatlam alone, at £1,200. Amongst the articles plundered on this occasion were, a "gilded" suit of armour, which stood in the gallery; "40 fether beds; the hangings of tapestry, for ij chambers ; the hangings of say, for iij chambers ; a gowne of plaine black velvat, a gowne of tawnye velvat, and one of black wrought velvat ; a fore parte of blacke velvat, laide all over with lace of goulde ; one of black velvat, laid all over with bonne lace of silver and goulde ; a kyrtle of crimisin damaske, and overbodie of blacke velvat, all imbroderyd ; a dob- blet of white satten ; as much long frenge and narrow frenge as would dresse a saddle and a pillion ; a littell gilted cofer, with half a dosen peaces of goldesmithe worke; a dosen great pearle; a blew sayfer and an amytas ; one paire of crymisin velvat bretches, laid all over with silver lace ; ij tunes of gascoigne wine, one firkin of sacke; iiij tents, with their furniture," &c. The work of destruction was so complete, that Sir George was obliged to take up his residence at the Isle for several months afterwards; and he was unable to receive the Earl of Sussex at Streatlam until the 10th of September following. Some portions of the old walls, &c, have been re tained in the present building, which was new fronted and modernized by Sir William Bowes, great grandson to the Knight Marshal, in 1708, 9, and 10, when the stone was won from the quarries of Stainton and Ling- bury. Its front elevation, which is towards the south, consists of a centre and projecting wings, on each of which there is a cupola; the walls being surmounted by a handsome balustrade, from whence a rich and undulating prospect may be enjoyed. The castle is three lofty stories in height, and 152 feet in length, which is less by 12 feet than the front of the former castle. Near the western extremity, the remains of a square tower are visible in the wall. At this end of the castle, and below the level of the present passage, there was formerly an iron " grille," which separated the portion called the dungeon from the more habitable part ; and rings, with chains attached, were fixed in the walls. In 1580, after the death of Sir George Bowes, four vaults are mentioned iii the inventory of his house hold furniture; one of which was called the "great vault" beside "Haddox hole," which was the lower dungeon. The great hall was above the dungeons ; and the chapel was on the next floor above. Two pointed arches, now built up, are supposed to have been lights to the ancient chapel. Two antique sculp tures of the arms of Sir William Bowes, builder of the previous castle, impaling those of Greystock, are built up in the north wall of the present edifice ; as is also a representation of the seal of Sir William, with the arms of Baliol, Dalden, Greystock, and De la Haye. To wards the north-east end of the building there were formerly a gateway, a moat, and a drawbridge; and the remains of ancient buildings still exist beneath the adjacent ground, which also contained a pond, called the " moat." To the north of the western wing there was a sort of walled and deep tank, in which articles of value were secreted in times of danger and alarm. Several human skeletons, skulls, &c, have, from time to time, been found to the north and north-east of the castle. The principal family portraits at Streatlam are — Sir George Bowes, Knight Marshal, 1572, aged 45; Sir George Bowes, his grandson, in the dress of a gentle man pensioner, 1628, aged 32; a portrait unknown, dressed in a buff jerkin; Mrs. Bowes, widow of Tho mas (Miss Maxton), 1688, aged 65; Sir William Bowes and Lady Bowes, with their daughters and sons, 60 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. William Blakiston and Thomas ; George Bowes, Esq., in his favourite blue frock coat, and several portraits of his first wife, the beautiful Miss Verney ; Mary-Eleanor Bowes, afterwards Countess of Strathmore, in crayons ; John Lyon, ninth Earl of Strathmore, painted in 1762 ; " John, Earl of Strathmore, given to his son, by Tho mas, Lord Camelford;" John Bowes, tenth Earl of Strathmore, in the uniform of the " Blues ;" John Bowes, Esq., in a Spanish dress, by Jackson ; and Sir Martin Bowes (not of the Streatlam line), " The gift of the Right Honourable Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the House of Commons." There are also several pictures by eminent masters, amongst which are, a portrait of the Archduke Albert, by Rubens ; a Fruit Stall, a Boar Hunt, and a Game Stall, by Snyders ; the Holy Family, by Annibal Caracci, after Raphael; and several smaller paintings. A heavy cuirass and a helmet, reputed to have been worn by Sir George Bowes, are preserved at Streatlam ; and the room in which he died has still the reputation of being subject to his occasional visitations. Hutchinson and others have designated the situation of Streatlam Castle as " gloomy and confined ;" whilst Sir Cuthbert Sharp says that its general features are " quiet grandeur and solemnity," though he admits that " it has evidently been chosen and retained from more imperious considerations than the smiling and picturesque beauty of the landscape." The castle, in deed, occupies the bottom of a deep valley, of no great width, through which flows, immediately in front of the building, a little rivulet, here called Streatlam Beck, but which higher up is known as the Forth Burn, and lower down as the Alwent Burn. The rising ground, on the south side of the stream, cuts off the prospect in that direction. The park, which sur rounds the castle, contains about 400 acres, nearly one- fourth of which is planted with ash and sycamore. STAINTON. This village has been variously termed Stainton Law — Black Stainton, from the moorish character of its situa tion — Stainton en les Craggs, from its extensive quarries of freestone, from which the stone for the castle and town of Barnard Castle has been dug — and Stainton in le Kerris, or Carrs, from a tract of bog land, nearly a mile in extent, on the south side of the road from Barnard Castle to Staindrop, called Broomielaw Stell, or Blackbeck Bog. The village contains a public house ; but no business of importance is carried on. There is a school for boys and girls, at which, on the visit of the government inspector on the 15th of June, 1853, 38 children were present at examination, 17 had left, and 12 had been admitted during the preceding twelve months. The following are the inspector's ge neral observations : — "BuUdings, fair-sized room, floor half of wood and half of stone; no class-room. Desks, four loose. Furniture, clock. Playground, good-sized yard. Books, fair. Apparatus, black-board. Organiza tion, methods, discipline, and instruction, fair." The minister of the Independent chapel in Barnard Castle formerly held a service in the school-room every Sunday afternoon ; but this duty has, for the last few years, been performed alternately by the Rev. George Dugard, incumbent of the chapelry, and the Bev. Thomas Evan Jones, curate. There was anciently a chapel of ease at Stainton; but no traces of it now remain. The Wesleyan Methodists have a chapel in the village. The highway through the village of Stainton runs close by the front of the dwelling-houses ; and on the opposite side of the road there is a large space of ground, which has always been used as a village green. On the 26th of November, 1851, Mr. John Dent, agent to John Bowes, Esq., appeared before the magistrates at the Barnard Castle petty sessions, on the information of Mr. Thomas Cruddas, of Stainton, charging him with having caused an obstruction and encroachment on the highway, by building a stone wall between the outer side of the road and the village green, so as to inclose the latter, and lay it to the adjoining lands be longing to Mr. Bowes. The magistrates decided, that as the wall was built in some places within 15 feet of the centre of the road, it was an encroachment, and fined the defendant 40s. and costs ; the surveyor being ordered to pull down the wall. A countercharge was then made by Mr. Dent against Mr. Thomas Cruddas and Mr. Martin Atkinson, of wilfully injuring the surface and highway, by tearing up the stones and soil thereof. It appeared that there was an ancient well and spring of water upon the village green, and within a few feet of the road, at which the inhabitants had been accustomed to draw water for upwards of 50 years, but which had been enclosed by the wall above alluded to. The charge arose from the defendants having pulled down a part of the wall near this well, which they admitted, but contended that Mr. Bowes had no exclusive right to inclose an ancient accustomed well in his grounds. The information was dismissed. The Traynes, lords of Streatlam, were early proprie- CHAPELRY OF BARNARD CASTLE. 61 tors of Stainton, which they originally obtained by grants from the Baliols. Margaret, daughter of Hugh Trayne, became the wife of John Norays, of Dalton, when her father granted to her two oxgangs in Stain ton, consisting of twenty-four acres lying separately at Applebrewall, Blakelawe, Milnstanside, Pikelawe, Nor- manlawe and Hermire, and Sengelawe. In 1262, after the death of her husband, she released the same lands to her brother, Robert Trayne. Adam the Smith, of Midleton, for the service which the said Robert had rendered to him at his great need, surrendered to him his land in Staynton. Robert Trayne granted to Harold de Stainton a messuage and nine portions of land lying at Greenwellflat, Lucewell Chestres, at the Lady Cross, ad Crucem Dominos, on the east of the road to Cletlam, at Stainton Law, and at the Old Assart betwixt the thickets on the north and the brook on the south, at Suthenesflatt, at Blakelawe, and the portion called the Rood, between the grantor's lands and the road to the castle. Other small properties are named in ancient charters. Geoffrey, son of Jordan Russell, seneschal to Bishop Stichill, acquired a considerable estate in Stainton by various purchases. Amongst these were the lands of Sir William de Hamildon, who, in 1300, released them to Sir John de L'Isle, by whom they were transferred to Russell. The latter also acquired Methestres, Dol- finrydding, and Quarinangyll, from Theophania, daugh ter of John ; and Robert Mustel, of Kendale, and his wife, Amabil of Burnhousehead, granted a messuage and lands to him. These estates, together with the lands released to Geoffrey by Eudo Trayne, passed to Peter Russell, brother to Geoffrey, and from him to a third brother, Simon, who had assumed the surname of Headlam. John, great-grandson of Simon, granted a lease of the Bailzie Haule of Stainton to the widow of his father, of which transaction the following testimony is preserved at Streatlam : — " For alsmuch as it is meritore and needfull to soe trew Christen-men to profis and testifye the trewth of enie doubtfull mater standyng in variance, y'rfor be it knowne to all Crysten peple to gwom ys present wryttys shall com to here or see, yatt wee Hery Johnson, of Hedlam, and Willm Pereles, of Wynston, witnesseth, that John Hedlem, of Hedlem, efter the decese of Heriry Hedlem, suted pesably to the Bailzyhaul of Staynton, and sone after lete to ferme the said haule w*k the appurtenances y'rto belongyng to Elisabeth Hedlem, wyfe of the said Hery, for ye terme of hyr lyfe; and after hyr decese the sayd John Hedlem, fadyr of Gyffray Hedlem, entred pesably to the said haulle, wtn th' appurten'ts, &c, and yen sone after ye sayd John lete to ferme the same haulle, wtn th' appurten'ts, &c, to oon Coke of Changyll ; the guych paid ferme for it the space of thre yer. In witness, &c. Yeven at Hedlem, ye fyrst day of May, ye yer of our Lorde 1476. Wytnes to ye seylling, Thomas Garth and John Syngylton." John Hedlam, Esq., in 1526, conveyed all his lands in Stainton to Sir William Bowes. A part of the estate was mortgaged, about 1630, by Sir George Bowes, of Biddick, to Matthew Hutton, Esq., of Marske, from whose descendant it was purchased, in 1801, for £27,895, by the late Earl of Strathmore, and thus again re-united to the Bowes' possessions. WESTWICK. The township of Westwick adjoins that of Barnard Castle on the east, and is bordered by the Tees on the south. It contains an area of 1,445 acres. The num ber of inhabitants, at each respective return, was 93, 95, 97, 98, 67, and 63 ; the latter number consisting of 33 males and 30 females, inhabiting 12 houses. The value of property assessed for the county-rate in 1853 was £1,506 16s. 3d. During the year ended March, 1854, the township of Westwick contributed to the Teesdale Union, for out-relief and lunatics, £26 15s. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £8 6s. ; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 10s. 6d. ; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 10s. ; for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, 2d.; total of expenditure, £36 Is. 8d., being £6 more than that of the preceding year. The registration cost 3s. lOd. ; and the county-rate paid 'by the overseers was £25 14s. lid. There is no village in this township, the population of which is chiefly agricultural. Westwick Moor, con taining 824 acres, was inclosed about 1765. The estate was part of the forfeited possessions of the Earl of Westmoreland. It is at present the property of — Webb, Esq., whose family have held it for several generations. The tithes of Westwick belong to the rector of Winston. 62 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. THE extensive parish of Middleton-in-Teesdale forms the south-western extremity of the county of Durham. It is separated from the county of Cumberland by an undefined line* and the Crook Burn; below which the Tees divides it, on the south-west, down to the Cauldron Snout, from the county of Westmoreland. Thence the river forms the boundary between this parish and that of Romaldkirk, in the North Riding of Yorkshire, until it reaches the western extremity of Marwood, in the chapelry of Barnard Castle, which forms the south-eastern boundary of this parish. On the east, it is bounded by Langley Dale, in the parish of Staindrop, and by Wood land, in the parish of Cockfield ; on the north-east by the chapelry of Lynesack ; and on the north by the parish of Stanhope. Middleton-in-Teesdale is divided into four townships, viz., 1, Middleton; 2, Eggleston; 3, New biggin ; and, 4, Forest and Frith. Eggleston Common, now a stinted pasture, forms the eastern portion of the parish. Middleton Common (now inclosed), Newbiggin Common (partially inclosed and the remainder stinted), Ettersgill Common, and Langdon Beck Common, extend along its northern boundary ; and West and Back Com mons are situated in the west and south-west. The whole of the extensive territory included in the parish of Middleton-in-Teesdale, which anciently con sisted of a large forest and chase, was held, with tbe lordship of Barnard Castle, by the Baliols and their successors in that princely domain. Like the other estates forfeited by the Earl of Westmoreland in 1569, it has become, with the exception of Eggleston and a few smaller portions, the property of the Duke of Cleveland. MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. The township of Middleton-in-Teesdale, extending from the river Tees on the south to Bollihope and Westenhope Commons, in the parish of Stanhope, on the north, contains 10,434 acres. The property assessed for the county-rate in 1853 was valued at £3,037 18s. 6d. The population, in 1801, was 796 ; in 1811, 988 ; in 1821, 1,263; in 1831, 1,824; in 1841, 1,770; and in 1851, 1,849, of whom 932 were males and 917 fe males. There were, at that time, 357 inhabited houses, 3 uninhabited, and 5 building. This township, during the year ended March, 1854, contributed to the Teesdale Union, for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £12 8s. 8d. ; for out-relief and * Ordnance Survey. — The boundary between the county of Durham and parts of Westmoreland, Cumberland, and Northumber land, is an undefined straight line, running from stone to stone, mound to mound, or post to post. It has recently been surveyed under the directions of the Board of Ordnance (see page 169). In the first instance, it was arranged that the scale of the plans for lunatics, £244 Is. 8d. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £102 5s. 6d. ; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, £1 8s. 9d. ; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 6s. ; for jour neys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £13 17s. 7Jd. ; total of expenditure, £374 8s. 2Jd., from which were deducted repayments of relief by relations and other receipts, £12 12s. 6d., leaving a net total of £361 15s. 8^d., which was an increase of £44 19s. 2jd. over that of the preceding year. There was paid for vaccination, £6 17s. ; registration, £7 8s. 2d. ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £52 12s. The town of Middleton is situated on the north bank of the Tees, 10 miles north-west from Barnard Castle, 12 south-west from Stanhope, and 253 (by road) north- north-west from London. There is no regular street, the houses being scattered in rows or singly along the sides of the hills on which the town is built. The most regular and ornamental part is called Masterman Place, situated in the south-east portion of the town. It was erected in 1823 by the London Lead Com pany, under the direction of their managing agent, Robert Stagg, Esq., from designs by I. Bonomi, Esq., architect, of Durham. The cottages of which it con sists are arranged in uniform rows, and are surrounded the county of Durham should be six inches to the mUe ; but, in consequence of the importance of the mining and engineering opera tions of the district, the scale adopted is 25-344 inches to the mile, being l-2500th of the actual lineal dimensions of the ground. It is intended to execute the plans of the towns on a scale five times the size of the other portions of the county. PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 63 by a spacious garden, a suitable portion of which is appropriated to each dwelling. The first occupants of those cottages took possession in May, 1824, accompanied by bands of music, &c. ; and as vacan cies occur, they are filled up by the Company from amongst their most deserving workmen, each of whom pays a rent of £3 per annum for his cottage and 10s. for his garden. Additional cottages have recently been erected, which are also intended for meritorious workmen. Middleton House, at the west end of the town, was the residence of Robert Stagg, Esq., above noticed, by whom both it and the adjoining grounds were considerably improved and beautified : the man sion is now the residence of the present superintendent, R. W. Bainbridge, Esq. A market is held in Middleton every Saturday, at which a few samples of corn are sold; but Barnard Castle is the principal corn-market of the district. The general market is not very well supported : it is most numerously attended on those alternate weeks in which the miners, as in Weardale, receive their monthly pay. On the third Thursday in April, and the second Thurs day in September, fairs are held ; but the cattle, sheep, and horse fair has been discontinued since the establish ment of that at High Force. There are six inns and public houses in Middleton, with several shopkeepers, tradesmen, and mechanics, a post office, a rural police station, and two corn-mills, worked by the Hudshope Beck, which flows through the town from the north. Middleton is one of the polling places at parlia mentary elections for the southern division of the county ; and the revising barrister's district is identical with the parish. The Town Hall is situated at the west end of the town, and was built by the late Duke of Cleveland, for the convenience of the markets. A railing around the lower story encloses the stalls of the butchers ; and the upper story contains offices for the accommodation of the duke's agents, for the savings bank, the mechanics' institution, and a room in which public meetings are held. The Bridge across the Tees was erected by public subscription, and is a handsome structure of one arch, 80 feet in span. During the floods in the winter of * A previous bridge, built in 1811, fell when nearly completed. Richard Attee, a butcher, who was in the habit of crossing between Middleton and Mickleton in Yorkshire, had frequently predicted its fall, and, at the time of this catastrophe, happened to be on the spot with his wife. Full of his favourite theme, he ventured beneath it to VOL. II. 1853, it received some trivial damage, which was speedily repaired* There is an excellent road from Middleton to Alston, constructed under the superintendence of the celebrated M'Adam: the parliamentary powers for its formation were obtained in 1824. The road leading from Mid dleton towards Westmoreland passes north-west along the banks of the Tees. An excellent road has also been recently formed from Middleton to Stanhope. The supply of water to the town is neither sufficiently abundant nor of good quality. Means, however, are about to be taken to remedy this inconvenience. It is proposed to lay pipes to a fine spring a short distance from Middleton, the cost of which, including the erec tion of public fountains, is estimated at about £500. Towards the undertaking the Duke of Cleveland has promised £100; the London Lead Company, £100; J. Hill, Esq., Appleby, £20 ; the Rev. J. Brown, £10 ; R. W. Bainbridge, Esq., £10. THE CHURCH. Middleton church is situated on a rising ground, on the north side of the town, and near the eastern bank of the Hudshope Beck. There are several traces of antiquity in the main building. It is entered by a porch on the south, above which there is a pointed arch. The body of the church consists of a nave with a south aisle, and a chancel ; the latter separated from the nave by an elliptical arch. An oblong and a cylindrical pillar form the aisle, and support an elliptical and two circular arches. The font is an upright cylinder of stone. The piscina remains in the wall near the north door of the chancel ; and there is a pointed niche in the south wall, near the altar-table. The windows of the chancel are pointed; but the rest are irregular and modern. Sepulchral relievos of crosses are placed above the vestry door and the principal entrance to the church. At a few yards distant, to the north of the church, there is a small square structure, called the bell house ; and here the three bells belonging to the church are hung. At the entrance to the church-yard stands an ancient cross, consisting of a small round stone pillar, surmounted by a sun dial, and rising from the centre point out its imperfections ; when his wife perceived the structure moving, and instinctively rushed forward to drag him from his perilous situation. At that instant the bridge fell and destroyed them both, in the presence of numerous persons who had assembled at the time. K 64 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. of a square base, on each side of which are three or four steps. The preservation of this neat and interest ing relic is much endangered by the mouldering of the lime or cement used in joining the steps ; but this may easily be remedied by a little timely attention. The second Barnard Baliol confirmed to the abbey of St. Mary's of York the church of Middleton, with two oxgangs of land, a toft, and a croft in the town; and the abbot presented to the living, at the nomination of the Baliols, for the Bishop of Durham's institution. On the forfeiture by the Earl of Westmoreland, the right of presentation was vested in the crown. Registers. — Books Nos. 1 to 6 contain baptisms, burials, and marriages from 1578 to 1812. Middle ton-in-Teesdale rectory is in the deanery of Darlington; the queen, patron. King's books, £25 17s. Id.; Tenths, £2 lis. 8jd. ; Episc. proa, 16s.; Archid. proc. 3s. ; Syn., 3s. Dedication to St. Mary. Rectors. — Walter de Langchester ; Roger de Kirkeby, 1378, p. res. Langchester ; John Bromley, 1416 ; John Bower, 1432, p. m. Bromley ; Stephen Wilberfos, 1434, p. res. Bower ; John Palswell, 1501; Edward Natres, S.T.P, ; William Bell, 1549, p. m. Natres; Leonard PUkington, S.T.P. , 1559 ; Anthony Maxton, 1619 ; Timothy Tullie, A.M., 1660; John AUason, S.T.P., 1700, p. m. Tullie ; John Emerson, A.M., 1728, p. m. AUason; Thomas Dade, A.M., 1774, p. m. Emerson ; Robert LasceUes, A.M., 1778, p. res, Dade ; Charles BaUey, A.M., p. m. LasceUes; John James Thornhill, A.M. (rector of Cockfield and vicar of Staindrop), p. m. BaUey ; John Henry Brown, A.M., 1829, p. m. ThornhiU. The rectory-house stands on an elevated site to the north of the church, and was nearly rebuilt by the present incumbent. The glebe, containing about 50 acres of land, is situated to the west of the town. The rector is entitled to all tithes except lead. On the in quiries instituted by the ecclesiastical commissioners in 1835, as to the nature and amount of income belonging to the various rectories, &c, no return was made by the rector of Middleton ; nor, since that time, has any official statement appeared. The living, however, is said to be worth about £600 per annum. CHAPELS. Baptist Chapel. — This chapel, a neat stone build- in o-, with a dwelling house for the minister, was erected at the expense of Robert Stagg, Esq., and his family. It is registered for the solemnization of marriages. The register of births, kept by the minister and deacon, con tains 18 entries, extending from 1829 to 1836. The chapel was opened for public worship on the 21st June, 1827. The Wesleyan Methodists and Primitive Me thodists have substantial stone buildings, as places for public worship, each capable of holding from 300 to 400 hearers. The Independents had at one time a place of worship in Middleton ; but it has been discontinued for the last 30 years. CHARITIES. School. — By indentures of lease and release, dated March 18 and 19, 1729, Christopher Stephenson and Mary his wife, Robert Hoggart and Elizabeth his wife, and Margaret and Grace Robinson, which said Mary, Elizabeth, Margaret, and Grace, were the sisters and co-heiresses of William Robinson deceased, conveyed to Edward Oxned and Joseph Bainbridge, and their heirs, a messuage and three closes, called Jacob Croft, Lenny Croft, and Kirk Close, all in Middleton, in trust, after the decease of the first named parties, to apply the rents and profits for the endowment of a free school at Middleton. The schedule annexed to the deed contains rules or statutes, by which it is ordered, that the master of the school shall be appointed by the rectors of Middleton, Stanhope, and Wolsingham, who shall also have power to suspend or remove him for any default, neglect, immorality, or crime ; that the mes suage above mentioned should be fitted up for the school, the future repairs of which were to be paid for out of the rents and profits of the other premises, after which the surplus was to go to the master; that 16 poor children of the constablcry, or, in default thereof, of the parish of Middleton, should be taught gratis ; that they should not be admitted under the age of six, nor continue after the age of twelve ; that they should be taught to read and write, and should learn arithmetic, and that care should be taken that they were duly catechised ; that, on vacancies occurring, the rector of Middleton should nominate to the first, and the over seers of the town to the two next, and so on in suc cession; but that if any person should neglect to nominate for a month, he should lose his turn ; that the visitors should have power to alter the statutes, and that the curate of Middleton should not be schoolmaster unless the rector should pay him such reasonable stipend as should be approved of by the rectors of Stanhope and Wolsingham, and such as the said curate might have reasonably expected or deserved in case he was not PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 65 schoolmaster, it being intended that the endowment should not be made use of to ease the rector of Middle- ton in the stipend to be paid to his curate. No new trustees were ever appointed ; and the Kirk Close, containing about 3 acres, was given up by a former schoolmaster, on a suit being instituted against him by the heir of William Robinson, by whose posterity it is still held. The property now belonging to the school consists of two closes, containing about 3 acres, let to a yearly tenant at £13 10s. rent; about 5 acres in closed from the Fell, and allotted to the school under an inclosure act, let at 30s. a year, the landlord paying the poor-rates ; and about 5 or 6 acres of Fell, let at 6s. The school and house of the master, having become much dilapidated, were repaired about the year 1833, partly with a sum of money obtained by the rector from the National School Society, and partly from his own resources ; the buildings continued a long time unfinished, but were at length completed. The gross amount of the master's income, besides the use of the school-house and a small garden, is £15 6s. per annum, for which 16 boys (eight in respect of what remains of the original endowment, and eight in respect of money laid out on the school-house), appointed by the rector and overseers, are instructed in reading, writing, accounts, and the church catechism, without any charge except for coals. He has also about 30 pay scholars ; and the free chil dren, if desired, are instructed with the others in draw ing, geography, and mensuration. Parish Land. — A parcel of land, containing 6 A. 1e. 6 p., belongs to the parish, though it is not known how acquired. A building, formerly used as a workhouse, stands upon it, and is now let in tenements ; the rents being paid to the parish, and divided amongst the town ships. Perkin's Charity. — Thomas Perkin, of Hudgill, by will, February 9, 1711-12, charged his house and close, called Hudgill Close, containing about 3 acres, with a yearly payment of 5s. to the poor of Middleton town ship, 10s. to those of Newbiggin, and 10s. to those of Forest. On the Commissioners' Inquiry in 1828, no payment had been made for 14 or 15 years ; and they wrote on the subject to the then proprietor, Mr. Tho mas Robinson, who declared his intention to resume payment when called upon by the parish officers. The money, however, is still unpaid. Township of Middleton. — Poor's Stock. — Under date of April 15, 1719, in one of the parish books, there is an account of poor stock, belonging to this township, amounting to £28 15s. 4d., to which is added, "Left by Cuthbert Lind (de Poortree), £10, for which Dr. Allanson (the then rector), John Lind, and John Johnson, are trustees." In 1729, the stock at interest was £54, which, in 1764, was put out to interest in the hands of the trustees of the turnpike road between Appleby and Kendal. The interest, £2 14s. per annum, has been improperly carried to the general account of the poor's rate. The charities belonging exclusively to the townships of Eggleston, Newbiggin, and Forest and Frith, will be noticed under their respective heads. EDUCATION, INSTITUTIONS, &c. Besides the parish school, and that belonging to the London Lead Company (noticed below), Middleton contains several day-schools, for the education of those who are disinclined or ineligible for admission into those two establishments. 1 A Mechanics' Institute was established in Middleton in 1847. Its meetings are held fortnightly in the Town Hall, which is granted for the purpose gratuitously. It consists of about 25 members, who pay one shilling per quarter subscription. There are about 400 volumes belonging to the institution, towards the support of which the Duke of Cleveland contributes £5 annually. A Subscription Library, supported by the monthly payments of the members, aided by occasional donations from the friends of such institutions, has been for some time established in the town. There is a branch of the Darlington Auxiliary Bible Society, which, in the year ending Midsummer, 1853, contributed £39 0s. 4d. on the purchase account and £15 as free, and distributed 181 Bibles and 100 Testaments. A Floral and Horticultural Society has been esta blished six years. An annual exhibition takes place in the Lead Company's school-room, when various prizes are awarded for the best specimens of flowers, fruits, vegetables, &c. The Parochial Clothing Society is under the manage ment of Miss Stagg and a committee of ladies. It con sists of about 140 members, who contribute a trifle monthly, and have a proportionate addition allowed from the funds, for the purchase of clothing. The annual expenditure is about £150. The Fuel Society is supported by the Duke of Cleve land, the Lead Company, and a few resident subscribers,. During the winter months, about 50 cart loads of coals are distributed to the poor in the township. 66 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. There are also two Miners' Refuge Clubs, a Benefit Club, and a Foresters' Society, established in the town. Savings Bank. — The Middleton-in-Teesdale savings bank was established in May, 1838 ; and the report of the institution for November, 1854, shews the following details : — 13 depositors whose respective balances (including interest) did not exceed £1 each £6 12 1| 27 do. were above £1 and not exceeding £5 67 2 8 18 „ 5 „ 10 107 14 4| 41 „ 10 „ 15 472 2 0 20 „ 15 „ 20 331 9 5§ 37 „ 20 „ 30 859 17 5§ 37 „ 30 „ 40 1218 13 3| 12 „ 40 „ 50 514 2 8| 24 „ 50 „ 75 1491 16 7 11 „ 75 „ 100 954 5 5 10 „ 100 „ 125 1119 11 10| 3 „ 125 „ 150 422 ] 8 7j 10 „ 150 „ 200 1696 9 11 263 depositors 9262 16 6 4 charitable societies 150 18 10 1 friendly society 530 7 2 268 Total balance due to depositors £9944 2 6 FUNES OF THE BANK. Invested in the Bank of England, in the names of the Commiss. for the Reduction of the National Debt £9967 8 9 Balanceinthehandsof thetreasurer (John BeU, Esq.) 216 10 Of 9983 18 9| Total balance due to depositors, brought forward .... 9944 2 6 Balance in favour of the bank £39 16 3j During the year, 38 new accounts were opened ; deposits to the amount of £1,705 lis. 7|d. were re ceived; £1,659 4s. Id. was repaid to depositors, and £32 5s. 6d. for expenses of management. LONDON LEAD COMPANY. The population of the parish of Middleton-in-Teesdale is chiefly employed in lead mining, and in the smelting works connected therewith. The Duke of Cleveland is proprietor of the largest portion of the mines, and Timothy Hutchinson, Esq., of the remainder. Neither of these proprietors work the mines themselves, but let them to different mining adventurers at a render of a pecuniary composition in lieu of one-sixth of the ore raised. But in order to give encouragement to further exploration, Mr. Hutchinson has agreed to accept a reduced composition, on the basis of a render of one- eighth of the raisings from the whole of his mineral ground, with the exception of those portions of the veins under which levels had been previously driven. " The Corporation of the Governor and Company for smelting down Lead with Pit Coal and Sea Coal" (usually styled the Lead Company, see vol. i., page 187) are the chief lessees of the lead mines, the produce of which is converted into pig lead and de-silverised at their Eggleston smelting works. The refined lead of this Company, produced from their Teesdale mines, is shipped from the Tees, and is very generally used in the manufacture of white lead, for which it is found well adapted. The produce from those mines has re cently been on the increase; and in the year ending October, 1854, about 4,000 tons of pig lead were realized. The mining operations of the Lead Company in the north of England have, for many years past, been con ducted with a high regard to the promotion of the wel fare of the numerous body of workmen employed ; and it is a most satisfactory and pleasing fact to find, in these days of migratory labour, that the Company's present operatives are the descendants of a line of people who for generations have served the same em ployers. Great attention is paid to the ventilation of the mines, and to the lodgements of the men and boys when engaged at a distance from their homes ; and the substantial and commodious erections the Company have fitted up for the accommodation of their workmen at Sharnberry, Lodgesyke, Manorgill, and more particu larly at their newly-opened mine at Little Eggleshope, in connection with the extensive underground levels at the mines, all supported with stone arches, indicate that the operations of the Company are contemplated to be of a lasting character. The practical mine agents of the Company are usually selected from the most intelligent and best conducted of their overmen, and these latter from those of similar character among the workmen ; thus affording to the youth in the Company's employment a great induce ment to their mental and moral improvement, and to the exercise of their skill and energies. The bargains to the miners are let quarterly, which gives the men a stake and interest in the places wherein they are en gaged ; and in arranging and fixing the bargains, the judgment and experience, not only of the local agents, but of their fellow agents engaged in the other mining districts of the Company, are put into requisition by the Company's superintendent. The agents are not allowed to engage in other business, or to supply any goods to the workmen ; and the latter are left perfectly free in the disposal of their wages, except the Com pany's discountenance of drunkenness can be considered PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 67 nn interference. The Company, many years ago, built a store shop at Nenthead, in Alston Moor, which is let to a tenant on the express condition that he shall sell exclusively for ready money; but even there, the workmen are left entirely unbiassed in the outlay of their earnings, and nothing in the shape of truck is allowed to exist. In Teesdale, the Company's work men, in 1848, established a corn society, for the pur pose of obtaining a supply of grain and other articles of consumption at moderate prices ; and although the Company aided them in this enterprize, yet every one is left entirely to his own discretion as to becoming a member of the society. The wages are paid in monthly advances on account, and the balance at the end of the year. All monies are paid direct to the workmen in the Company's own offices, and no part thereof, on any account, in a public house, or through any interested medium. Medical attendance and medicine, for the workmen and their families, are provided at the cost of the Company. In 1817, the Company established a fund throughout their works, for aiding their men in sickness and old age, and yielding other benefits. For some years after its first establishment, the payments were so much in excess of the capital as to induce a state of bankruptcy ; but through judicious arrangements, and the liberal aid of the Company (who for many years contributed not less than £450 annually to it), the fund has now attained a position for meeting all its liabilities. The present yearly contribution of each member is 30s. ; and the allowances are, for sickness, 7s. per week ; and for pension on attaining 65 years of age, 5s. per week ; with £2 for funeral expenses, and £3 to the widow or family on the death of a member. The state of the fund undergoes a septennial revision by a professional actuary; and the benefits are increased or diminished by the fund committee (composed of the Company's district agents and of men selected by and from the workmen at large) with his advice. In November, 1853, the number of fund members was 884, and the invested capital amounted to £21,221 14s. lid. In the promotion of education, the Company have been among the foremost ; their schools for their work men's children at Middleton-in-Teesdale, and also at Nenthead in Alston Moor, having been erected in the years 1818 and 1819, at the instance of their late super intendent, Mr. Stagg. At these schools, the Company provide and pay the masters, and find books, stationery, and every school requisite ; and in return exact regu larity of attendance from the age of six to that of twelve in the case of boys, and up to fourteen in the case of girls then remaining members of their parents' family, and a contribution of one shilling per quarter from the parents of each child taught, with the exception of orphans and the children of widows, who are taught free. Admission into the Company's employment is made dependent upon a school character ; and on pass ing a satisfactory Bible examination, each child is pre sented with a handsome Bible, having inscribed thereon, " The Gift of the Lead Company." By the principles upon which these schools are conducted, religious in struction is so combined with secular as to meet, proba bly as far as is practicable, the antagonistic views that so much abound at the present day on that important question. The rules of the week-day schools provide — " That the school be opened with singing and prayer ; and the teaching be carried on not less than six hours each day, for five days in the week. " That the Sacred Scriptures, in the authorised version, or extracts therefrom, shall be read and taught in school. " That no Catechism, peculiar to any religious denomination, shall be used in the school, nor any peculiar tenets of any religious sect inculcated on the scholars. " That every child attending the Company's week-day school shall be required to attend twice every Sabbath such place of religious worship as his or her parents may think proper." The Sunday schools are conducted on a similar system : — " Every child attending the Company's week-day school, shall, when reqnired, attend the Sabbath school taught in the Company's school room, on the Sabbath morning ; and, twice on the Sabbath day, such place of religious worship as his or her parents may think proper. " Every child must be present at the hour fixed for the opening of the school, and must come prepared with such portion of Catechism, Bible lesson, &c, as may have been previously appointed by the super intendent or teacher, and must conform to all the school regulations.'' Exceptions from the rules are allowed in cases where parties reside at a distance from the schools, or where religious scruples are entertained by the parents ; but, in either case, it is required that the children shall at tend some other school for the specified period. A free library has for many years existed, not only for the use of the scholars attending the schools, but of the whole of the Company's workmen. It now con tains about 1,000 volumes ; and additions thereto are from time to time being made. In 1854, the Company erected a reading room at Masterman Place, for the use of their workmen; and it is intended that this room shall be heated, lighted, and kept in order at the cost of the Company, leaving the men to provide books, periodicals, and newspapers from their own resources. 68 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Discouragement is given to those drinking and dis orderly habits which are, in too many places, so great a bane to society ; and these offences incur, in the Com pany's works, either a pecuniary penalty payable to the workmen's fund, or dismissal from the Company's ser vice, at the discretion of their superintendent. Governor of the Company, John Masterman, Esq., M.P. ; deputy governor, Octavius Wigram, Esq. ; and superintendent, Robert Walton Bainbridge, Esq, The Hope farm, or Hope House, situated on the moorland, was anciently part of the possessions of Rie- vaulx Abbey. After the Dissolution, it was purchased of the crown by William Bitchburn and Roger Mar shall, who afterwards conveyed it to Ralph Tailbois, of Thornton : his descendants sold it to Richard Clervaux of Croft, from which family it passed to the Tempests, and is now the property of Timothy Hutchinson, Esq. Another farm, called Foggy forth, or Foggerthwaite, part of the ancient possessions of the Scroops, was, in 1638, conveyed by Lady Scroop to Anthony Maxon, and afterwards became the property of Sir Nicholas Tempest. It is now, with the old mansion house and farm called Stolley, once the property of the Cumins, and recently of the Bowes family, in the possession of Timothy Hutchinson, Esq. Hoodgate, Middleside, East and West Birch Closes, Long Lands, The Rigs, High and Low Nook Closes, The Crofts, Broadlegate, East and West Woolpits, East Friar House, and How Gill, are the names of small portions of land in the township. An act for inclosing lands in the parish of Middleton was passed 45 Geo. III., c. 13. The award of the commissioners was read at Eggleston on the 25th, and at Middleton on the 27th of April, 1815 ; and deposited in the Exchequer, city of Durham, on the 10th of October, 1816. The accounts were examined and passed September 16, 1830, when there was a balance in hand of £743 9s. 2d. ; and in September, 1839, the balance was £398 12s. lOd. Another act was passed June 16, 1834, by which the above act was in part repealed. Allotments were to be made for stone and lime quarries, for repairing roads and buildings, and for public watering places. The rector's allotment was to be fenced at the general ex pense ; and he was empowered, with the consent of the ordinary and the patron, to lease his allotment for 21 years, to commence within twelve months after the passing of the act. The rights of the Duke of Cleve land, as lord of the manor, were secured. The whole of the commons are now allotted and enclosed. EGGLESTON. This township, which forms the eastern portion of the parish, contains 7,919 acres ; and the property was valued for the county-rate, in 1853, at £2,335 lis. 7d. The population, in 1801, was 306; in 1811, 335; in 1821, 464; in 1831, in consequence of the erection of a mill, it had increased to 623; in 1841, it was 617; and in 1851, 636, of whom 307 were males and 329 females. There were, at that time, 113 inhabited houses and 1 uninhabited. In the year ended March, 1854, the township of Eggleston contributed to the Teesdale Union £8 8s. lOd. for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals ; £77 lis. for out-relief and lunatics; £28 3s. for irremovea ble poor, salaries, and other common charges ; 14s. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 10s. 6d. for law charges, revising barrister, and jury lists ; and £3 6s. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, in. cidental expenses, &c. Total of expenditure, £118 13s. 4d., from which £4 10s. 3d. was deducted for repay ments of relief by relations and other receipts, leaving a net total of £114 3s. Id. This was £3 13s. 7|d. less than the expenditure of the preceding year. The ex penses of vaccination amounted to £3 Is. 6d., and the registration to £1 16s. 8d. ; the county-rates paid by the treasurer being £39 4s. 9d. The village of Eggleston is situated 4 miles south-east from Middleton, and 6 north-by-west from Barnard Castle. A small stream runs through it from the hills on the north to the Tees ; and a bridge across the river forms a communication with Yorkshire. There is a public house in the village, and a few mechanics. At a short distance is a smelt mill, belonging to the Lon don Company, at which about 40 workmen are engaged. It was erected under the direction of Robert Stagg, Esq., and is so constructed and arranged that the lead ore requires no lifting, but descends from process to process, until it is brought out as lead at the lower part of the mill. The Company have recently erected a number of cottages, with small gardens attached, which are to be occupied by their workmen here on the same terms as those in Masterman Place, Middleton. The chapel of ease adjoins the botanic gardens of T. Hutchinson, Esq. It is a neat building, consisting of a nave 'and chancel, capable of accommodating 150 persons. There is a small cemetery attached to the PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 69 chapel ; but it is much too crowded. The living is a curacy, not in charge nor certified, but endowed by a grant from Queen Anne's Bounty. The rector of Middleton, who presents to the living, pays an annual stipend of £6 to the curate ; and by an order in council, April 17, 1844, the ecclesiastical commissioners wore empowered to make an annual grant of £27 to the chapelry of Eggleston, the net income of which was to be £100. There is no glebe house. The Rev. Wilson Brown, A.B., is the present incumbent. The register book contains baptisms, burials, and marriages from 1795 to 1812. There was a small chapel at Eggleston, built by Mr. Emerson Dowson, of London, for the use of the Inde pendents and Wesleyans ; but it is now converted into a dwelling house. The Wesleyan Methodists erected a spacious chapel in 1828, capable of seating about 150 hearers. It was built by subscription, £20 being con tributed by Mr. John Parker, and £5 each from various other persons. It is a stone building, with a roof of Westmoreland slate. The school, properly divided for boys and girls, is attended by about 100 children, and is maintained by the Duke of Cleveland, the London Lead Company, and T. Hutchinson, Esq. For an account of Sanderson' s Charity, one of the recipients of which must be an inhabitant of the town ship of Eggleston, see page 29. In the savings bank at Barnard Castle there is a sum of £20 lodged, stated to have been left many years ago by a lady, the interest to be given to the oldest poor widow at Eggleston. The interest, 17s. per annum, is disposed of accordingly. The Eggleston Mechanics' Institution, established about seven years ago, is held in the school-room. There are from 50 to 60 members, and the library con sists of about 700 volumes. It is supported by public contributions and a small charge for membership. The tolls on the Egglestone coal road produce about £670 per annum, as follows (1853) : — Eggleston gate, £295 ; Stotley gate, £168 ; and West Pits gate, £206— total, 669 ; this sum being above the expenses of collecting. Eggleston Hall, the seat of Timothy Hutchinson, Esq., is situated to the south- west of the village, and is an elegant residence, surrounded by tastefully arranged pleasure grounds, contrasting happily with the bleak hilly region in its immediate vicinity. An artificial cascade of considerable height is formed by the stream which runs through the grounds ; and a subterranean promenade, excavated by blasting the solid rock, winds along the side of the Tees, which here divides itself into several channels. An ancient monument, consisting of a circle of rough stones, with a cairn in the centre, known by the name of the Standing Stones, stood about a mile north from the village, and, from the proximity of a large tumulus, was supposed to be a memorial of some battle fought in early times, but was more probably a druidical remain. For many years, the stones were removed for the pur pose of repairing the neighbouring roads; and no re mains of the circle are now left. The manor of Eggleston formed part of the posses sions of the Earls of Westmoreland; and, on the breaking out of the Northern Rebellion in 1569, sixteen persons joined it from this place. In 1631, it was purchased from the citizens of London by John Child, of the Inner Temple, Esq., and Daniel Britain, citizen and vintner, who, in the following year, conveyed it to Tobias Ewbank, of Staindrop. It was afterwards the property of a family named Sanderson, and, about the beginning of the last century, came into the possession of an ancestor of the present proprietor, Timothy Hut chinson, Esq. An act for dividing and inclosing certain parts of the moors, commons, and waste lands within the manor of Eggleston, was passed in 1785 ; and the plots were marked out on the 23rd of May in that year. The award of another act, for dividing a part of the remain ing portion of the common, was deposited in the Ex chequer, city of Durham, on the 18th of January, 1817. The undivided portion is now a stinted pasture. Folly, or Foxgill farm, containing about 100 acres, was purchased some time ago from — Harrison, Esq., and is the property of T. Hutchinson. Esq. NEWBIGGIN. The township of Newbiggin adjoins that of Middleton on the north-west, and contains 4,627 acres. Its popu lation, at the six periods of enumeration, was 281, 294, 416, 507, 516, and 583. Of the latter number, 307 were males and 276 females ; and there were 92 in habited houses and 1 building. The annual value of property was estimated for the county-rate, in 1853, at £1,190 15s. 6d. For in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals, the Tees dale Union received from the township of Newbiggin, in the year ended March, 1854, £4 17s. ; for out- relief and lunatics, £64 I2s. 3d. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £44 15s. 5d. ; for 70 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. constable and costs before magistrates, £1. ; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 7s.; for jour neys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £4 3s. 6d. ; total of expenditure, £119 15s. 2d., towards which £12 0s. 6d. was received as re-payments for relations and from other sources, shewing a net total for the year of £107 14s. 8d. ; whilst that of the year 1852-3 was £119 18s. 6d. £3 2s. 6d. was paid for vaccination, £1 5s. for registration, and the over seers paid to the county-rate £19 16s. lid. The village of Newbiggin is situated on the north bank of the Tees, 2\ miles north-west from Middleton. It contains a small Wesleyan chapel, which is one of the oldest in the district, and in which the Rev. John Wesley occasionally preached. There is a smelt mill and a few tradesmen. A former public house is now converted into a private dwelling. A road from New biggin to Daddry-Shields, in Weardale, was constructed between 20 and 30 years ago, and affords a track over the wild and steep fells between the two places. The principal part of the township of Newbiggin is the property of the Duke of Cleveland ; but some portions of it were held by the late Ven. Archdeacon Headlam. School. — By indenture, July 18, 1799, William Tarn gave £400 three per cent, consols, upon trust, to the Drapers' Company of London, from the annual divi dends of which 20s. was to be deducted for expenses, and the balance paid to the rector and churchwardens of Middleton, who were to pay 10s. 6d. annually to the curate for examining the children of Newbiggin school, on the Sunday nearest to the 2nd day of July (the birth-day of the said William Tarn), in the parish church, and preaching a sermon upon the occasion. Should there be no curate, the money was to be paid to the rector, or such other minister as should perform the duty. From the remaining money a competent supply of coals was to be provided for the school, and the balance paid to the schoolmaster. The sum of £10 9s. 6d., the net proceeds of the charity, is now paid to the master, who engages to supply the school with firing, which the churchwardens consider it a part of their duty to see fulfilled. The average attendance of children at the school is. about 50, all of whom pay for their instruction. The building belongs to the town ship, the inhabitants of which claim the right to appoint * An act was passed in the parliamentary session of 1853, entitled " An Act for the better Administration of Charitable Trusts," (cap. 137). A board of commissioners, inspectors, &c, has been appointed under its provisions, with powers to inquire into the condition and management of charities, to compel the production of accounts, to the schoolmaster, which has been hitherto exercised by the rector of the parish; and the subject is under ju dicial inquiry.* Lind's Charity. — £1 12s. 6d. per annum, the inte rest of £40 left by Cuthbert Lind to the poor of this township, has been improperly carried to the account of the poor-rates. Poor's Stock. — There is now no trace of about £20, mentioned in the parish books as poor's stock belonging to this township. Boavlees Houses. — A Primitive Methodist chapel was erected at Bowlees about three years ago. The site was given by the Duke of Cleveland, and the cost of the building defrayed by public subscription. It is un derstood that the promise of the site was procured from his grace by one of the members of the Primitive Me thodist body, who, meeting the duke one day, made known to him personally the wants of his brethren. His grace demanding to know what good the Primitive Methodists had ever done, that they should ask such a favour, the supplicant immediately replied, that " they had made the drunkard cease to drink, the swearer cease to swear, and the poacher to lay down his gun." The Bowlees Burn flows into the Tees from the north, a short distance north-west from Newbiggin. Winch Bridge. — The river Tees is, near Bowlees Houses, crossed by the Winch Bridge. The original structure is said to have been the earliest suspension bridge in Europe, having been certainly in existence more than a century ago, though the exact date of its erection is unknown. Its original purpose was to afford a passage for the miners residing in the village of Hol- wick, on the south side of the river, to and from their work in the mines in Middleton. Its dimensions were much exaggerated in the accounts given by tourists ; and Hutchinson states its length at 70 feet, and its height from the river at near 60. In a description given by W. C. Trevelyan, Esq., in Brewster's Phi losophical Journal, 1828, its real dimensions are thus stated : — Length of bridge between the rocks, 59 feet 4 inches. Length of chain supported by the rock on the north side, 12 feet. Length of do. on the south side not visible, being covered with earth. Centre of bridge lower than the ends, about 3 feet. Height of bridge above the surface, 21 feet. Depth of the river, 8 feet 6 inches. examine parties on oath, Sec. ; but as the various clauses of the act are important, especiaUy in the county of Durham, where charitable endowments are numerous, an epitome of the provisions of the Ad ministration of Charitable Trnsts Act wiU be given at the close of the account of the present division of the county (Darlington Ward). PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 71 The iron links were about 6 inches long, If inches broad, and the bars of which they were formed, ^ inch and f inch thick. The chains were fixed by bolts into the rock at each end, and on them were laid wooden cross-rails 3} feet distant; on these were laid deals lengthwise, forming a floor 21 inches broad, with a hand-rail 2f feet high on each side. Smaller chains near the ends were fixed to the rocks, to prevent the bridge from swinging ; a purpose which was very im perfectly attained. From long exposure to the weather, as well as from friction, some of the iron links were latterly almost worn through, and the boarding and hand-rails were rotting and crumbling away. In August, 1820, a party of nine men and two women were passing the bridge from Holwick, most of whom being upon it at the same time, the unusual weight destroyed the balance; and one of the chains being overstrained by a previous in clination to one side, it snapped, and three men were thrown into the Tees. One of them was dashed to pieces on the rocks ; the others, falling into the water, were saved. The bridge was soon after repaired by the late Earl of Strathmore; but it was subsequently taken down, and a substantial modern foot-bridge, sus pended from metal posts, was erected in its place by the late Duke of Cleveland. The precipices on each side of the river at this place, and the rocks in its chan nel, are of basalt ; their ruggedness breaks the torrent into numberless turbulent cascades, rapids, and eddies, which, especially in times of flood, render the scene wild and romantic in the extreme. FOREST AND FRITH. The extensive township of Forest and Frith consists of three Parts, known as Ettersgill, Middle Forest, and Harwood Parts, containing altogether 17,270 acres, and extending from the township of Newbiggin, about i\ miles north-west from Middleton, to the borders of Westmoreland. Its population has progressed, at the six periods of return, as follows : — 460, 601, 723, 760, 884, and 904 ; the latter number consisting of 483 males and 421 females, inhabiting 119 houses. The * The Rev. George Carpendale died on the 13th April, 1838, aged 73. He faithfuUy discharged his duties as schoolmaster and reader at Harwood chapel from the year 1789, and with equal use fulness and propriety those of his sacred office from the time of his ordination in the year 1808. The following interesting sketch of the romantic career of Carpendale is from the pen of the Rev. J. L. Low, A.M. : — VOL. II. property assessed to the county-rate was valued, in 1853, at £1,366 7s. This township contributed to the Teesdale Union, during the year ended March, 1854, 10s. 6d. for extra medical charges; £138 12s. lOd. for out-relief and lunatics; £74 4s. 4d. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges; £1 8s. 6d. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; and £21 14s. 7|d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. ; making the total of expenditure, £236 7s. 9|d. The repayment of relief by relations and other receipts amounted to £12 Is. 3d., leaving a net total of £224 6s. 6Jd., which was £19 Is. If d. more than that of 1852-3. For vaccination, £11 7s. was paid; and for registration, £2 lis. 4d. The overseers paid £22 lis. 8d. to the county-rate. Harwood district is the highest and most remote portion of the parish, and the westernmost part of the township. Within the last thirty years, considerable improvements have been made in the roads of the dis trict. A former road, ascending steeply by the side of Harwood Beck, has been superseded by a new line, which, leaving the old one at Bowlees, near Newbig gin, passes the High Force, crosses the old road, and, winding to the north of it, ascends with a more gradual inclination, traversing the lofty moors which divide the county of Durham from Westmoreland and Cumber land. Where this road has attained its highest eleva tion, nearly 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, commences the dreary and apparently boundless waste of Yadmoss, which in former days was all but impassa ble, especially in winter ; and many casualties occurred during the heavy snow storms, which frequently bewil dered and overwhelmed the solitary traveller. Yadmoss, however, is not, where it is traversed by the road, so extensive as it appears to be. A little beyond the middle of it is Crook Burn, an insignificant brook, which here forms the boundary between Cumberland and Durham. A stone with B on its front, G on one side, and H on the other, indicates the division of the township of Garragill and Harwood district. Harwood Chapel and School stand by the river side, near the head of Harwood Beck, some distance from the road. The old chapel, in which Carpendale* so " Between 50 and 60 years ago, a somewhat remarkable man be came schoolmaster of Harwood. His name was George Carpendale, a person of a very respectable family ; a brother of his being a clergy man at Armagh, connected, it is believed, with the cathedral there. In his early days, however, George had led a dissolute life, and had been impressed as a sailor. After having been for some years at sea, he was discharged as unfit for service, on account of his wounds. He 72 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. zealously discharged his duties, having become ruinous, the present chapel was rebuilt in 1849, and the school in 1853. They form but one building, the wall of which is surmounted by a bell-gable, dividing the one from the other. The pitch of the chapel roof is much higher than that of the school, and the distinction in the style of architecture is sufficient to mark the different pur poses of the building. There are two entrances to the chapel; one by a porch on the south side, the other under the belfry from the school. The chapel is 40 feet long, 15 feet wide inside, and contains about 80 sittings. The cost of the building was £240 ; and though very plain, it is perfectly ecclesiastical in its character. The school is a continuation of the chapel westward, with a transept at the west end, which projects to the north of the main building, but not to the south. The portion between this transept and the chapel (an apartment 14 feet 6 inches by 13 feet 2 inches) is the girls' school, and on Sundays is used as the vestry. The transept is 25 feet by 12 feet 6 inches, and forms the boys' school; thus affording ample ac commodation for upwards of 50 scholars. The school cost about £100. The chapel is dedicated to St. James, and divine service is performed in it one part of the Sunday by the curate of Forest. In 1724, Robert Brumwell left £80 for instructing the poor of Harwood, which was afterwards augmented to £100 by five years' interest which had been left took to a wandering life, and first came into these parts as a ballad- singer. He settled at first inBaldersdale, in the North Riding, where he remained a few years teaching a school of his own. By-and-by, Harwood school fell vacant, and he was appointed master. It ap pears that even at this period his follies had not entirely ceased, for a very short time after his appointment, he collected together as much money as he could, and suddenly decamped leaving a wife whom he had married in Baldersdale, and an infant daughter, to the care of the parish. Strangely enough, one of the tenants in the highest part of the dale had occasion soon after to g» to London, and there one day, to their mutual surprise, met Carpendale in the street. On being reproached for his unfaithfulness, he enquired whether the situation was still vacant, and if so, whether he might return. He was told that no successor had been appointed, and was advised to try whether he could be reinstated. He consented to do so. and being restored to his place, continued ever after to conduct himself with great steadiness and propriety. This continued for some years, till Bishop Barring- ton, being informed of the destitution of Harwood, and the steady attention of the schoolmaster to his duties, was induced to ordain him, The Earl of Darlington, to whom the whole of the little vale belonged, and who had a small shooting lodge there, allowed him £40 a year as schoolmaster and curate. Now when it was to be served by an ordained minister, the little chapel was enlarged and altered. About thirteen feet were added to its length — an arch was thrown across the inside, about ten feet from the east end, dividing it into a nave and chancel. A pulpit and reading desk were erected at the east end of the nave, and all the seats placed so as, to face the east. The unpaid by the Rev. John Emerson, rector. The inte rest, at 4 per cent., is paid by Dr. Headlam, of New castle-upon-Tyne ; J. Ingram, Esq., formerly of Stain drop ; and the representatives of the late Ven. John Headlam, archdeacon of Richmond. The trustees of Lord Crewe's Charities have for many years given £5 annually in support of the school : the Duke of Cleve land also gives £15 a year, and the London Lead Company contribute in proportion to the number of children who attend. Little is now known respecting the building of the old chapel at Harwood ; but there is reason to believe that at least up to the time of James I., divine service was maintained in a little chapel about 4 miles above Middleton, called Durpitt Chapel. As there is no record of any priest being appointed to it, it is probable that the service was only occasionally celebrated by the rector of Middleton or his curate. How much later Durpitt chapel lasted is unknown; but every trace of it has now perished. Probably it did not survive the disorders of the seventeenth century. There is a tomb stone in Middleton church-yard to the memory of " — Horn, who died in 1737, one of the three founders of Harwood chapel." The pews in the old chapel were all marked with the initials of the names of the inhabitants, with the date 1733. These are all the data left for a history ; but it appears obvious that the inhabitants of Harwood, at the suggestion and under chancel was occupied by the Holy Table, and a seat for the earl. The door was now near the west end, and hard by it stood a new stone font with a cover. The Holy Table, the pulpit, and reading desk, were hung with crimson cloth, not of the finest texture, but in keeping with the rest of the fittings. Every thing, as may be supposed, was on a very small scale ; for even now the chapel would only contain, when closely packed, about eighty grown-up persons. StUl, small and homely as it was, this humble house of prayer was much better fitted for its sacred uses than many places of much greater pretensions, and bore many traces of a hand which had made the ordering, and adorn ing of it a labour of love. Mr. Carpendale was very anxious to have; it consecrated, end once believed himself to be very near obtaining his wish, It is said he expended nearly £20 in making preparar tions to receive the bishop and lodge him for the night, for he never supposed that his lordship could come and return the same day. There were serious obstacles, however, in the way, the chief of which was the want of a permanent endowment, and the scheme was drop ped. Besides the stipend mentioned above, he had occasional assist ance from his brother in Ireland, who, after his ordination, presented him with a gown. He had also, during the last years of his Ufe, an allowance of £20 a year from the London Lead Company, in whose mines most of his flock were employed. At the time of his death, which took place in 1838, he was a widower, and had lived for some years alone in the school. He had contrived to save £200, and this sum he left in the hands of three trustees, the bishop, the rector of Middleton, and the churchwarden of Harwood, as the beginning of an endowment for a resident minister." PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 73 the direction of — Horn and his two companions, had joined, like their brethren at Allenheads thirty years before, to erect this chapel " for their greater ease and convenience." A chapel of ease to Middleton was erected a few yesrs ago, about 3 miles below Harwood: it stands nearly half a mile to the east of Langley Beck, and was intended not only to serve for the district of Forest and the little adjoining valley of Ettersgill, but also to supersede the old chapel at Harwood. It was found expedient, however, not to discontinue divine service at Harwood, and hence the rebuilding of the old chapel in that district. The chapel of Forest, dedicated to St. Jude, is a neat Gothic building, capable of accommo dating about 300 hearers. There is also an excellent parsonage house. The chapel and parsonage were built by the Duke of Cleveland ; and his grace agreed to allow a sufficient sum annually (£100), in addition to the interest of Mr. Carpendale's benefaction of £200, to maintain a curate. The Rev. J. L. Low, A.M., is the officiating minister, and performs duty also at Har wood once on each Sunday. There is a school at Low Forest, supported by a small quarterly payment from the children, and liberal contributions from the Duke of Cleveland and the London Lead Company. The Poor's Stock in this township is stated in the parish books at £39 10s. ; but nothing of it now re mains, nor has any interest been paid since 1780, when £33, previously in the hands of Margaret Bowes, was paid in and carried to the general township account. Near the river, at the south-east point of the town ship, is Friar House, conjectured, from its name, to occupy the site of a hermitage, the estate having formed part of the possessions of Rievaulx Abbey. Grass Hall, in the west, was formerly a shooting box of the Duke of Cleveland. There is an excellent inn at High Force, built by the Duke of Cleveland," and occupied by his grace during the season as a shooting box. From the inn, an admi rable view of the Force is obtained. A little below the * The description here quoted, was written during a short tour in Teesdale, made in 1828, by the Rev. Anthony Hedley, Professor Pil- lans, of Edinburgh, and Mr. Sopwith. One or two of the anecdotes of this ramble are still remembered : the professor wore a travelling suit and straw hat, scarcely fitted for Sunday appearance in church, an d, at a morning consultation on that day, it became matter of discussion how it was to be spent. The Rev. A. Hedley, himself one of the ablest preachers and most benevolent and enlightened members of the Establishment, said, "I wUl go and hear the best preacher, whe- Force, for the convenience of traffic, a wooden bridle bridge was erected about 10 years ago. About half a mile above the High Force there. is a Baptist chapel, erected by subscription, and capable of accommodating about 150 persons. It is a neat stone building, with a cottage dwelling adjoining for the use of the minister. The establishment of the High Force Cattle Show has had considerable influence in encouraging an improvement in the breed of cattle in the district. The eleventh annual meeting was held at the High Force inn, on the 13th of October, 1854, when upwards of twenty prizes were awarded for the best short-horned cattle, sheep, &c. The Duke of Cleveland contributes £5 annually towards its support; and the London Lead Company are also liberal contributors to its funds. " The farms in High Teesdale," says Mr. Sopwith, " are chiefly occupied by miners ; and however rustic the outside of their dwellings, the interior not unfre- quently presents an admirable specimen of neatness, cleanliness and order. The strength and activity of the hardy race of men who inhabit them are accompanied by kindness of disposition, and no one who has expe rienced their civilities can readily forget them, or attri bute them to any other source than a well-meaning mind. Women, as Ledyard says, are every where kind and attentive. In this district they areremark- ably so. If it be pleasing to contemplate excel lence in works of fiction, it is still more refreshing and instructive to witness it in real life. A comely matron presiding in a humble, but clean and neat abode — the mother of blooming and athletic children — a form and countenance retaining much of the grace and vivacity of youth — a ready smile, at once bespeaking a hospitable welcome and a cheerful mind — manners as free from awkwardness on the one hand, as from forwardness on the other, and apparently regulated by the influence of real kindness and genuine good sense. Such is a rapid sketch of female character, drawn in the lonely wilds of Teesdale, and the fidelity of the portrait was approved at the time by other and more competent judges than the artist."* ther in church or meeting-house." The professor, from the cause above named, preferred the " Temple of Nature," and was afterwards found to have made the rocks and woods of Teesdale resound with his eloquent delivery of Mrs. Hemans' fine sonnet on "The Homes of England." An evening's ramble in the said "Temple" led the active professor to admire art as well as nature, and, in his rustic dress and armed with a huge pole, picked up in the woods, he approached the hall at Eggleston, and sat some time under its porch enjoying the beauty of the scenery. An open window displayed a rich array of books in 74 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Cauldron Snout, High Force, &c. — The course of the Tees, as it rushes along the south-western border of this district, displays a succession of natural wonders. The tour from Yadmoss to Cauldron Snout and the High Force is thus described by Mr. Sopwith : — " Pedestrian tourists, accustomed to mountain travel ling, may readily find their way from the descents of Yadmoss to Cauldron Snout ; but most visitors will do well to engage a guide, who may readily be procured by inquiry at any of the farms or ' onsteads.' From Harwood, access may nearly at all times be had on foot; but only in dry weather by horses. In either case, it is a fatiguing journey of about three miles, chiefly over the steep and rugged sides of Harwood Fell. On gaining the summit of this lofty moor, an expansive but dreary prospect bursts upon the view. Wide and moss-covered moors extend in a gradual slope to the Tees, which here winds its way through a wilderness of the most stern and desolate aspect. In the distance, a vast amphitheatre is formed by succes sive ranges of mountains in Yorkshire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland, and which, towards the north, seem blended like waves into each other. But the bright spot and redeeming interest of this prospect is the Weel, whose waters, spread in the hollow of a vast and dreary basin, present a beautiful contrast to the dark heath of the barren moors which surround it, while its width and serpentine form give it the appearance of a broad river flowing through the midst of a desert. " The Weel is a sullen lake, in breadth about half a mile, and three or four times that length, formed by the interception of the Tees by basaltic rocks, over which the water flows into a deep and rapidly descend ing gorge, and forms the waterfall of Cauldron Snout. " On approaching the foot of the Weel, the rough road, over moss and ling, is suddenly more roughened by numerous projecting points and edges of basalt, which render either riding or walking both trouble some and somewhat dangerous. On descending the rocks, the visitor beholds the waters of the Tees rushing with impetuous force down a steep basaltic chasm of two or three hundred yards in length. Near the top is the interior, and the professor, who supposed the family to be absent, ventured to indulge in a temptation so irresistable as the sight of a good library. Great was his surprise and consternation to behold the family and a circle of friends ! Explanation of so unwonted a visit in such a costume, so armed, and on a Sabbath eve, seemed be yond hope, and a speedy retreat was made. Safely returned to the inn, carrying the sturdy sapling, nearly seven feet long, he rejoiced in his escape, and declared he would keep the said sapling as a household god ; but, alas ! on the following morn a portion of it had a wooden bridge, thirty feet long, over the fall, from whence the visitor may view the swift and foaming current beneath. The fall is interesting at any time' even in very dry weather, the stream gamboling in its descent amongst the various channels which .the rocks afford. But when the Tees is swoln with rains, it rushes down in one impetuous and unbroken torrent of almost resistless force, and, with its sides of frowning tower-like cliffs, forms a spectacle truly terrible and sublime. " Those who delight in the minor beauties of nature will here find them united with her boldest works. The variously-coloured lichen on the surface of the basalt is extremely beautiful, and not less so are the wild flowers which spring from the sides of the chasm. The examination of these, and viewing the fall from various situations, will, to most persons, afford much gratification. But it must be admitted that to some, and especially to ladies, the attractions of Cauldron Snout may scarcely repay the difficulties of the jour ney. A good horseman with a skilful guide will enjoy a ride on the rocky edges of scars, and over loose basaltic stone, deep moss-ruts, and frequent banks, both deep and stony ; but it is well that the tourist should be apprised of this before he undertakes a jaunt in which such fatigues must necessarily be encountered. " Following the course of the Tees by rugged banks for nearly five miles, the tourist reaches the well-known cataract of High Force. The river, in traversing the mountainous country which has just been described, becomes rapidly augmented by various tributary streams, and, after its junction with Harwood Beck, assumes a wide and noble aspect. The fall of such a river, at fifteen miles from its source, over a precipice of upwards of fifty feet in height, may readily be con ceived to be an object of the highest interest as regards remarkable and sublime scenery ; and it is scarcely less interesting to the geologist from the clear development of the strata it displays. " The river immediately above the fall is divided by a lofty rock into a greater and a less channel, the former of which in dry weather contains the whole been taken to light the fire. The worthy landlady, observing that the professor did not enter the church, at once expressed her opinion to his two companions that he "surely maun be a Papist." Professor PiUans still occupies the honourable position he then held, as Professor of Humanity, in the University of Edinburgh; and it was entirely from his suggestion that Mr. Sopwith was induced to write the " Account of Mining Districts," from which the above and other quotations, relating to Weardale and Teesdale and to the lead mines generally, have been made. ifSK MM "1 :=1 PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 75 stream, while at other times both channels are filled with impetuous torrents, which, rushing over the preci pice, form a cataract on each side of the central mass of cliffs— ' That rear their haughty head High o'er the river's darksome bed.' The principal channel is worn into a rugged descent at the edge ; but the greater part, probably about 40 or 50 feet, is quite perpendicular; and over this the descent of so large a body of water at all times insures a gratifying treat to the lovers of natural scenery. The less channel is considerably worn, so that, when dry, a person may without much difficulty climb up it, and examine the junction of the basalt with the adjoining strata. " Hutchinson describes the main channel as having a perpendicular fall of 82 feet; but this is much over rated. The height of the central rock is stated in the 'Tour of Teesdale* to be only 63 feet; the entire per pendicular height of the fall probably does not exceed 50 feet, and the inclining falls above may be 15 or 20 feet more. Nearly one-half of the entire depth of the adjacent rocks consists of basalt, which, in the middle of the stream, towers up into a rugged but picturesque summit. Except in high floods, this station may easily be gained, and from thence the spectator can look down and behold the rolling torrent precipitated into the abyss below. Being on the giddy verge of so lofty a rock, the rapidity of the stream, the thundering noise with which it mingles with the deep sullen waters below, and the clouds of foam which often reflect the iris' lovely hues, altogether combine to produce min gled sensations of terror, astonishment, and delight. " Having taken this inverted view of the Force, the tourist, by walking about two hundred yards along the top of the banks on the north side of the river, will find a somewhat rugged but not very difficult descent down the rocks and underwood, and from the sides of the river may command a view of the fall at various dis tances. Here lofty precipices on each side form a magnificent amphitheatre, on the sides of which may be traced the rapid rise of the strata in a north-west direction, and the basalt regularly ranging with the * Besides the extensive lead mines worked by the London Com pany, there are several royalties taken by adventurers, who form themselves into companies. The Nether Hurth Lead Mining Company is divided into 64 shares, and has been established about 20 years ; the royalty belongs to Sir Richard Tufton, and was previously the property of the Earl of Thanet. A duty of l-7th is paid to the lord of the manor. Tees Side Lead Mining Company has been established other strata. The upper part and summit are more or less covered with brushwood and a few ash and yew trees ; while, at the extremity of the vista, the ceaseless roar of the descending flood completes the majestic character of the scene." The wild scenery above described owes its peculiar character to the rugged outline, the great extent, and thickness of a large bed of stratiform basalt. At High Force and Cauldron Snout, the river cuts through it, and displays the beds upon which it reposes. About half a mile below Cauldron Snout, on the north bank of the river, the violent action of heat upon the beds below the basalt is very evident. An example of the mechanical effects produced on the strata is to be met with by the side of the foot-path leading to the pool, beneath the High Force, which may be easily observed by any one visiting the waterfall. The limestone under the whin is much altered, having become white and crystalline. In the Tees, above Cauldron Snout, the whin sill may be seen about 300 yards above the Weel. The bed above it here is a limestone of considerable thick ness, rendered generally of a coarse granular texture, and of a white colour. In ascending the stream, the basalt is covered by the superior strata; but at a lead mine called Nether Hurth,* the whin was worked into in following a vein, and found to bear a good deal of ore. In the mine at Troutbeck Foot also, on Tees side, four miles above Cauldron Snout, the whin was sunk through in following the vein for lead ore, of which it contained a rib 12 to 14 inches wide. It was here found 3 fathoms below the surface, and was 11 fathoms thick. At Birkdale lead mine, by the side of Maize Beck (a considerable stream, which joins the Tees near Cauldron Snout), two shafts were sunk into the whin in search of a lead ore vein, which was found 3 feet wide, having in it sometimes a rib of ore 1 foot thick. Maize Beck, for the greater part. of its course, runs upon the surface of the whin sill ; and in the higher part, near the edge of the fells, that bed is laid bare by denudation for a great extent of surface. The whin occurs in the lower part of Lunedale : it is also found at Lune Head, but is not known any further abunt three years. It is divided into 6,400 shares. The workings are in the parish of Alston, near the source of the river Tees; the com missioners of Greenwich Hospital are lords of the manor, to whom l-7th dues are paid. Adjoining Tees Side Mine is Green Hurth Mining Company, divided into 128 shares, and has been established many years. Cross Gill Head Consols, another mining company, divided into 6,400 shares, was established in 1854. 16 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. to the south. In a section below Cauldron Snout, the basalt is seen crossing the edges of several inclined beds of limestone, &c. " In no situation," says Mr. Hutton, whose descrip tion has been followed in the above detail, " is the chemical action of the basalt so apparent as in Teesdale ; in no other situation are the limestones and shales acted upon so powerfully as they are there, both above and below that bed ; and the impression upon my mind is, that, by the depth of the valley, we there cut so far into the strata as to approach near to an outlet of the volcanic matter. Not that I suppose the basalt of Bel- ford or Holy Island to be ejected from hence as from a crater ; but that, perhaps, a great crack or fissure in the strata existed, of which the whin sill is the over flowing. This idea of High Teesdale marking, as it were, a centre of volcanic action, is perhaps corrobo rated by the general direction of the great basaltic dykes of Durham and Yorkshire, they appearing to spring from hence as from a focus, which had continued in activity at different periods, up to one beyond even the consolidation of the oolitic series." Bleak House. — The external features of Teesdale resemble those of Weardale ; and the identity of occu pation in the two districts, have naturally tended to produce a similarity of character amongst their inhabit ants. (See vol. i., p. 677.) A local pen has given a graphic description of some of the features of landscape attractions which tend, in no small degree, to attach the inhabitants of Teesdale to what, on a first inspec tion, and especially if visited in stormy weather, might seem bare and cheerless hills, such, indeed, as the same writer has, in another production, called " treeless, miserable wastes" — " region of mists, and birth-place of the storm." Yet, on a further acquaintance, deep and impressive scenes of beauty and sublimity are to be found — a stillness — a quiet grandeur and amplitude, which, in solemnity, and even in landscape effects, far exceed what is commonly found in lower districts. This has been well described by Mr. Pearson, formerly of Middleton, in a visit to Bleak House — not the ideal fabric of Mr. Dickens' tale so called, but a veritable dwelling in Lunedale bearing that name in 1827. As the influence of scenery forms the groundwork of the earliest local attachments, our readers will perhaps not object to the portraiture of a true Bleak House and its desolate adj uncts, situated nearly on the very borders of the county of Durham : — " We slowly, and on foot, ascended the mountains that separate Teesdale from Lune. The road, a very twisted and zigzag one, wound its way by mount and hollow, rock and pool. I was amazed to see so many deep gills, or ravines, in the mountain side, which appeared from Middleton to be uniformly smooth and regular in its ascent. We pursued our way, however, sometimes scrambling over its bold elevations, and at others plunging into the deep and hidden recesses, until we reached the fell top, where we made a ' breath less pause.' An extended prospect opened to our view To the right of us, the romantic and varied scenery of Teesdale lay stretched out before us. The Tees, seen in various points, had a curious and picturesque ap pearance : at one place, it made a bold curve — at another, a right angle — then was lost in a chasm — then sprang over a precipice — and then, as if tired of gam bolling, it swept proudly on in a right line. The scenery was congenial to the stream: here a terrific line of basaltic precipices carried the eye to the bleak and boundless wilds that stretched beyond — there, smiling woods, villages, white-washed hamlets, with the fugitive rivulets that were coming in from the moun tains, mingled beautifully with each other, and formed a scene that, to a poet's eye, might have been fraught with inspiration. On our left lay a far- extended waste of heath, bounded by, and melting into a chaos of lower ing clouds, whose alpine ridges, catching the sun beams at partial openings, produced a mimic representa tion of mountain scenery, in all its fantastic and dismay ing forms." To Bleak House, then distant more than seven miles from any church, the writer and his friend, a Home Missionary, were going, to meet an assembly of the rustic dwellers of the lonely dale. They found it more populous than it had at first appeared ; " most of the farm houses and miners' cottages being built in the sheltered hollows by the water side, and not visible at any distance, from the numerous intervening hills ;" a description which applies generally to the habitations throughout the adjacent dales. An account is given of the interior of the dwelling which served on this occa sion as a place of worship for seventy persons. Those who would study the manners and trace the character of a people so secluded as these are from the world, must accurately regard many humble details which escape attention in the crowded thoroughfares of the world. Travellers on the continent, who follow only high roads and railways, travel in steam boats, and dwell in fashionable and expensive hotels, can form no idea of the quiet, simple, and inexpensive modes of life PARISH OF MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE. 77 which prevail in less frequented districts ; and tourists, who visit the Lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland, see indeed the mountains, dales, and lakes, but meet at every stage an artificial and modernized condition of things, altogether different to that which the pedestrian finds on penetrating the inner recesses of the country. Bleak House consisted of " two rooms on the ground floor in a line with each other ; the first and largest being the kitchen — the other answering the double purpose of parlour and bed-room. The windows were extremely low, and the bank, on the opposite side, rising abruptly to a considerable height, gave to the house a dark and gloomy appearance. The accommodations were of the most humble order : a large copper kettle, hanging above the preacher's head, was his only sounding board; and a chair, turned towards him, his pulpit. All the chairs, benches, and stools in the house were arranged for the hearers ; and a ladder set upon trestles supplied ten or a dozen of them with seats. Yet rude as these accommodations were, there was one part of the arrangement which might have taught a more polished congregation a charming and perhaps requisite lesson : — the long settle, and the chairs by the fire side, were reserved for the old people and those females who had young children in their arms. Whether the warmth of the fire had a kindly influence in preventing the coughing of the former and the crying of the latter, I cannot pretend to determine ; but they were as much hushed as any of the rest of the little assembly. Both kitchen and parlour were crowded, and comprised every age, from infancy to grey hairs. Some of the venerable old men appeared like solitary remnants of a former generation — pieces of wreck left on shore by the storms of former years — survivors of the tempests in whose billows our fathers found their graves. Their faces told the tale of long-past years. Single-breasted coats, with huge flat buttons, exhibited a fashion that had elsewhere become obsolete. Their trembling knees, feebly knocking against each other, proclaimed that they also had nearly reached the mouth of the stream — the roar of the ocean was sounding in their ears — the tide of life about to subside in the waters of eternity. " The preacher was listened to with deep and earnest attention, as he discoursed from words of exquisite beauty and impressiveness, well suited to these lonely wilds : ' For the Lord shall comfort Zion : he will comfort all her waste places ; and he will make her wilderness like Eden, and her desert like the garden of the Lord.' His appropriate and affectionate address seemed to make a strong impression on the minds of his rustic hearers. Nothing could be more gratifying than the reception he met with at the close of the meet ing. Many shook him cordially by the hand, and thanked him for coming so far to preach to them ; and others, who only wished him ' Good day,' did it in that kind, warm-hearted manner, which seemed to acknow ledge a benefit and solicit a better acquaintance. The good people of the house also, Martha like, hasted to make the parlour ready for our reception. " Whilst taking a little refreshment, I asked the master of the house where all the people came from, and give his characteristic reply : — ' Many of them come a gay bit off from the dales further ower, some from the houses along the fell edges by the limestone quarries, and a canny few from the onsteads (houses) by the beck meetings, a mile further up. It's not much preaching one has the chance on here ; and folk are fain to come when they can get it so near them.' " We set out on our return. A considerable quan tity of rain had fallen during our stay; the sun was sinking amidst the broken clouds ; a hundred new- formed rivulets, glittering in his beams, crossed the dark heath with lines of light ; the beautiful iris, heaven's own messenger of peace and good will to man, stretched its bold arch from fell to fell, amidst the crags; the fleecy mists floated in fantastic and ever-varying shapes ; the mountain tops, towering above the shadowy chaos, revelled in the sun's unclouded brightness ; while in the distance, the lofty ridges of the Westmoreland hills were seen emerging, like a new creation, from the dis solving glories of the western sky. We looked back on the scenery we had left — the rainbow stood directly over it, the extremity of the magnificent arch almost touching the humble roof of the dwelling which had formed the little church of the valley. The wilderness was indeed like Eden, and the desert smiled 'like the garden of the Lord.' " Such is a vivid portrait of landscape scenery, of rustio habits, and of devotional feelings, which form the deep foundations of that ardent love of home which so strongly attaches the miner to his native dales. Neither words nor pencil can convey an idea of the romantic charms of wild moorland scenery : aerial tints often clothe the summits of the mountains, so blended with floating mists and clouds that it is difficult to dis tinguish the hues of earth from those of heaven. 78 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. PAEISH OF COCKFIELD. iHE parish of Cockfield is bounded on the west by Middleton-in-Teesdale, on the south by the chapelry of Barnard Castle and the parish of Staindrop, on the east by the chapelry of St. Helen's Auckland, and on the north by that of Lynesack. It consists of the townships of Cockfield and Woodland, containing together 4,416 The latter township, however, is completely separated from that of Cockfield by the chapelry of Lyne- acres. sack and the township of Langley Dale in the parish of Staindrop. COCKFIELD. The annual value of property assessed for the county- rate in the township of Cockfield, in 1853, was £1,518 18s. 6d. The number of inhabitants, in 1801, was 461 ; in 1811, 475; in 1821, 533 ; in 1831, in consequence of the employment of labourers in railway works, it had increased to 790; in 1841, it was 994; and in 1851, owing to the partial working of collieries and the cessa tion of labour at a large stone quarry, it had decreased to 647, consisting of 341 males and 306 females. In 1841, there were 194 inhabited houses and 17 unin habited : in 1851, the numbers were, 147 inhabited, 46 uninhabited, and 1 building. In the year ended March, 1854, the township of Cockfield contributed to the Teesdale Union £12 17s. lOd. for-inmaintenance, clothing, and funerals; £83 5s. 6d. for out-relief and lunatics ; £42 16s. 8d. for irre- * George and Jeremiah Dixon. — These eminent and ingenious men, born at Cockfield, were the sons of an old and faithful servant of the Raby famUy, whose portrait is preserved at the Castle, in- scribed, "An Israelite indeed, in whom there is no guile." They received the rudiments of the mathematics under Mr. John Kipling, of Barnard Castle ; but their education was chiefly self-acquired. George, named in the text, though of a genius that rivalled Jeremiah, confined himself to a more retired life, being employed in the north in various coal works and other mining adventures, in which he dis played an extensive knowledge and competent judgment. He is also said to have been a good mathematician, a mineralogist, a painter, an engraver, and a great experimentalist in chemistry, hydraulics, and pneumatics, an excellent land surveyor, and a. most beautiful draughtsman. Jeremiah Dixon was a contemporary, and on very intimate terms, with that celebrated and strange compound of genius and eccentricity, William Emerson, of Hurworth ; and also with John Bird, of Bishop Auckland, another kindred spirit, (see vol. i., p. 558,) through whose recommendation he was selected by the Royal Academy of Woolwich, as a fit person to be sent out to the island of St. Helena, for the purpose of observing the transit of the planet Venus across the sun's disk. When Dixon was undergoing his examination, at that establishment, with respect to his qualifications for the task, the first question put to him was, " Whether did you study mathematics at Cambridge or Oxford?" With a good deal of natural simplicity he replied, "At moveable poor, salaries, and other common charges; 18s. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; £1 13s. 6d. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists; and £4 4s. 6d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. ; the total of ex penditure being £145 16s., which was less by £9 15s. 9d. than that of 1852-3. The cost of registration was £2 13s. 4d. ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £25 13s. 3d. The village of Cockfield is situated 6 miles south west from Bishop Auckland, and 3 north from Stain drop. It is irregularly built ; and much of its primitive rural character has been superseded by the erection of houses for the colliery population which has, for some years, found employment in the vicinity. There are a brewery, three public houses, a few beer shops, and several mechanics, tradesmen, and shopkeepers. A school-house was erected by Mr. George Dixon,* of neither place." " Then at what pubUc school did you get your rudi ments?" "At no public school," was the reply. "Then at what particular seat of learning did you acquire it?" "In a pit cabin upon Cockfield Fell," said the humble scholar. His abilities were tested, and found equal to the task ; he was accordingly sent, and performed it to the satisfaction of his employers. The academy which sent him out, was a mUitary one ; and from that time, till the day of his death, he wore its uniform, which was a red coat and a cocked hat. He was also employed to set the limit* and bounds of the provinces of Maryland and Pennsylvania, in America. His genius for invention manifested itseH in many other ways, originating many of the mechanical contrivances and machines now used about the coal works. It has been stated, that he was the ori ginal discoverer of coal gas ; and that his own garden wall, on the edge of Cockfield Fell, was the first place ever lighted by coal gas. This discovery is generally attributed to William Murdock, a native of Cornwall, who, in the year 1792, employed it for light ing his own house and offices at Redruth; and, in 1798, con structed the apparatus for the purpose of lighting Bolton and Watt's works, Soho, near Birmingham. With respect to Dixon's claim to the discovery, the probability is, that it was simultaneous with that of the other; and that, from his residence in an obscure locality, and unostentatious disposition, his discovery did not become known till after that of Murdock. His first experiment is said to have been made-like that of many other embryo phUosophers-with PARISH OF COCKFIELD. 79 Cockfield, which was afterwards enlarged at the expense of the parishioners, and used as a meeting-house by the Wesleyan Methodists. It is now a Centenary chapel, and is a neat building, capable of holding about 200 persons. The Primitive Methodists erected a chapel in 1826. Cockfield Hall, formerly the property of the ancient family of Watson, and now of the Boweses, is an old mansion, similar in style to many common in this part of the county of Durham : it is situated a little to the south of the village, and has long been occupied as a farm house. A considerable portion of the moat around it is still visible. THE CHURCH. Cockfield church is a humble structure, consisting of a nave and chancel, without side aisles or tower, capable of accommodating 200 persons. The entrance is on the south ; and a pointed arch separates the nave from the chancel. The font is a ponderous octagonal • bason of freestone ; and the piscina still remains in the wall near the altar-table. The pulpit is of oak, orna mented with antique carving. The arms of Charles II. are sculptured on the north wall of the chancel ; and near it is a painting of the royal arms, dated 1726. The nave is lighted by three narrow pointed windows on each side ; and there are three lancet lights on the east, and two on the south side of the chancel. At the west end of the nave there is a gallery. In the church-yard, near the south-east corner of the chancel, is a recumbent figure of a female in stone, 3J feet long, which village tradition asserts to be a repre sentation of a pupil drowned in the moat at Cockfield rather a rude sort of apparatus : his retort being an old tea kettle ; and for pipes, to convey it along the orchard wall, he used the stalks of hemlock (locally caUed humlock). He died in Cockfield, and was buried at a Uttle chapel belonging to the Society of Friends (of which body he was a member), which stood at the village of Old Raby, near Raby Park. This chapel was puUed down, many years ago, by the late Duke of Cleveland, for the purpose of improving the park and road near the castle ; and a dog-kennel was buUt upon its site, so that the grave of this man of genius has neither line nor stone to indicate where his bones are laid. The neglect which the burial places of the two Dixons seem to have fallen into may be attributed, in a great degree, to the peculiarity of the Society of Friends, in objecting to monuments and tomb-stones in memory of their departed friends. John Bailey, Esq.., of ChUlingham, Northumberland, was the son of Mr. WiUiam Bailey, of Blades Field, near Bowes, in the •county of York. He showed a taste for drawing very early in life, and was patronized and assisted both in that and in mathematical studies by Mr. George Dixon, of Cockfield, who was his uncle by marriage. He was employed when a young man by that gentleman as tutor to his chUdren, during which time he devoted his leisure VOL. II. Hall, at some time when that building was a school; but as the effigy is evidently of higher antiquity than such an appropriation of the hall would warrant, the probability is, that, allowing the truth of the catastrophe, the sufferer was a member of the resident family. Registers. — Book No. 1 contains entries of bap tisms, burials, and marriages from 1578 to 1617; Nos. 2 to 4, baptisms and burials from 1652 to 1812, and marriages from 1652 to 1753, interrupted by No. 5, baptisms from 1806 to 1811; and No. 6, marriages from 1754 to 1812 (deficient from 1617 to 1652). Cockfield rectory is a discharged living in the deanery of Darlington, with Staindrop vicarage an nexed ; the Duke of Cleveland, patron. King's books, £9 18s.; Tenths, 19s. 9|d. ; Episc. proc, 4s. 6d. ; Archid. proc. 2s. ; Synodals, 2s. Rectors. — Robert Arnays ; William Home, 1411 ; John Lyndesay, 1411, p. res. Home ; John de Hoton, 1420, p. m. Lyndesay ; Thomas Sproxton, 1432, p. res. Hoton ; WiUiam Burgh, occ. July 12, 1452 ; WiUiam Askewith, cap. 1504; Nicholas StocaU, cl., 1522, p. res. Askewithe ; WiUiam Clayburgh, cl., November 30, 1540, p. m. StocaU; Richard Baylis, cl., August 28, 1548, p. res. Clayburgh; Robert Dixon, A.M., April 13, 1575, p. m. Baylis ; Timothy BossaU, A.M., June 24, 1616, p. res. Dixon; Thomas Lyndley, June 27, 1617, p. m. BossaU; George Trench, A.M., July 1, 1621, p. res. Lyndley;* Toby Sedgwick, occ. June 18, 1658 ; Simon GUpin, Sep tember 27, 1690 ; Peter Farren, May 13, 1700, p. res. GUpin ; Simon Gilpin, A.M., 1714, p. m. Farren; Thomas Browne, 1717, p. m. Gilpin ; Benjamin Worgom, 1724 ; WiUiam Gibson, March 14, 1734 ; William Addison, cl., July 20, 1746, p. m. Gibson ; Peter Fisher, cl., 1751, p. res. Addison; George Davison, 1793, p. m, Fisher; John Jones Thornhill, A.M., (rector of Middleton-in-Teesdale,) 1806, p. m. Davison ; J. W. D. Merest, A.M., (rector of Cockfield and perpetual curate of Darlington,) 1829, p. m. ThomhUl; Harry C. Lipscomb, A.B.,t 1846, p. res. Merest. hours to drawing and engraving many of the pieces which bear his name ; but he never foUowed engraving as a sole occupation. No doubt Mr. BaUey profited largely in his scientific knowledge by living under the roof of his relative. After attending to the education of his cousins, he practised land-surveying, and for a short time was mathematical teacher under the Rev. John Farrer at Witton-le-Wear. He there married the daughter of Nicholas Greenwell, Esq., and shortly afterwards become Lord Tankerville's land-agent at ChiUing- ham, which appointment he retained to the time of his death.' He, at the same time, did a great deal of business as a general land-agent and surveyor, and few men have greater claims to the gratitude of posterity for the many lasting improvements in rural economy planned and executed by him. Mr. Bailey engraved several of the plates of Hutchinson's topographical works : he was also the author of an " Essay on the Construction of the Plough," 8vo., and joint writer with Mr. Culley of the Northumberland Report, drawn up for the Board of Agriculture. He died June 4, 1819, aged 68. * Lyndley, by his proctor, assigned, as a reason for his resignation, that being in debt, he durst not show his head abroad, and so the cure was entirely neglected, June 19, 1620. f Author of a " History of Staindrop Chuich, Durham." M 80 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. The glebe consists of 18 acres of land ; but the rec tory house, an old thatched building north of the church, has long been unfit for an ecclesiastical resi- dance, and is let in tenements.* The gross income of the rectory, with Staindrop vicarage attached, is stated at £390 per annum, subject to permanent payments amounting to £36. From the remaining £354, £60 is paid to a curate for Cockfield. The Rev. Peter Bar low, A.B., is the present officiating clergyman. The Rev. J. W. D. Merest, as a tithe-owner of not less than one-fourth of the tithes of the parish, by no tice, dated May 15, 1837, called a parochial meeting of the land and tithe-owners, to take place on the 19th June following, to discuss a proposed commutation of tithes. The measure was carried into effect upon a seven years' average. CHARITIES. French's Charity. — A freehold house in the Back Row, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, was bequeathed, August 11, 1686, by George French, citizen and haberdasher, of London, to the poor of the town and parish of Cock field for ever. The house is let in tenements, at rents amounting to £8 8s. a year ; but the premises are out of repair, and the rents have long been irregularly paid. When received, they are divided, at May-day and Martinmas, in sums varying from 2s. 6d. to 4s. or 5s., amongst the poor of Cockfield, according to a list made out by the churchwardens. Hutton' s Charity. — Out of the estate of Hindon, in this parish, John Hutton, by will, July 16, 1657, gave 20s. per annum for ever to the poor of the parish ; the overseers to dispose of it according to the monthly cess for the poor. For some years, it has been received by the overseer of Woodland, and applied wholly for the benefit of that township. Donor unknown. — The tenant of a small farm called Fold Garth, in Woodland, belonging to the Duke of Cleveland, pays 5s. yearly to the overseer of Woodland, * In this house resided the Rev. William Nicholson, who for 23 years officiated as curate of Cockfield on a salary of £20 per annum. When incapacitated from duty by age, he was allowed an annual pension of £10 ; but having no person to attend upon him, and his faculties being impaired, he gradually became extremely dirty in his person, and used to be hooted about the village by the children, with whom it was a customary sport to "plague t'ould pareson." At length, Mr. John Hinscliffe, the parish clerk, took pity on the forlorn and degraded state of this unfortunate son of the church, and had him removed into his own house, where, with much difficulty, the vermin, &c, were cleansed from his body, and his last moments who gives it, with the proceeds of Hutton's charity, to one poor widow not receiving any relief from the township. From an early period, the manor of Cockfield was held by the family of Vavasour. Henry Vavasour, 5th Bishop Hatfield, died seised of Cockfield, holding of the bishop in capite, by homage, fealty, service at the court, and a quarter part of a knight's fee. William Vavasour, in the 31st year of the same prelate (1375), died seised of the manor, with the advowson of the church, and a certain mine, Carbonum Maritimorum, value 20 marks when let to farm. In Bishop Langley's time, Cockfield had become the property of the Ne villes, as, in 1420, that prelate granted 'a pardon to Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, for purchasing without license, from Henry le Vavasour, Chiv., the manor, with the advowson of the rectory ; and on the 16th of March, 1425, the bishop confirmed the settlement made thereof by the earl, which had been executed without license, to Johanna his countess, and the heirs male of their bodies. In 1569, fifteen persons from Cockfield followed their lord in his disastrous rebellion, three of whom suffered death by the public executioner after its suppression. This estate, like the other possessions of the earl, was forfeited to the crown ; and on August 17, 2nd James I., that monarch granted to Henry Lidley, of Halden in the county of Kent, Knt., and John Starkey, of the same, Gent., all the manor and appur tenances of Cockfield, valued at £20 13s. 4d. per annum ; with the profits of the courts there, valued at 2s. per annum. The estate subsequently became vested in the modern lords of Raby ; and the Duke of Cleve land is now lord of the manor. The royalty of the estate, south of the village, is held by John Bowes, Esq., and others, under whom the Seven Sisters Colliery has been worked. On August 25, 1851, the Inclosure Commissioners of England and Wales gave notice that John Bowes, of Streatlam Castle, Esq., had made application, under the provi- rendered comparatively comfortable. He died on March 8, 1805, and was buried on the south side of Cockfield church. Another retired clergyman was the Rev. WUliam WUson, better known as Fiddler Willie, who was a native of Cockfield, where his father carried on business as a master mason. Having received a liberal education, he was ordained for the church, and resided for some years at Morpeth and other places in the north of England as curate, never having obtained superior preferment. He was twice married ; and, at the latter period of his life, removed to his native place, where he resided, till his death about 15 years ago, on the: property left him by his father. PARISH OF COCKFIELD. 81 sions of the act 13th and 14th Vict., cap. 31, for the sum of £1,800 by way of loan, for the drainage of his lands in the parish of Cockfield. Mr. Bowes is the principal landed proprietor; but there are several others in the township. Twenty-two lots of houses, cottages, a brewery and malting, a garden, and closes of land, belonging to Mr. George Dixon, were sold, on the 8th of April, 1830, to various purchasers. An estate called Wigglesworth is the property of P. H. Stanton, Esq. There are three farms belonging to the township of Cockfield, but situated on the south of Woodland township. One of these, East Hindon, containing 72 acres, with an allotment of 133 acres, belongs to a school at Burton in Kendal, and is charged with the payment to Hutton's charity of 20s. per annum. Cockfield Fell. — This large tract extends northward from the village to the Gaunless, and is about 2 miles in width from east to west. Coal has been worked on it from an early period, as may be seen from the above notice of Vavasour's mine, which is the first inland colliery upon record. The " lines and entrenchments" on Cockfield Fell, described by Bailey in the Antiqua rian Repertory, are probably the remains of old coal workings ; the moderate depth to which it was neces sary to sink rendering this district, in the infancy of mining machinery, available to the enterprize of early speculators ; though its distance from the nearest port prevented competition with the more maritime collieries. The opening of the Stockton and Darlington railway, however, removed this difficulty; and the coal on Cockfield Fell, the royalty of which belongs to the Duke of Cleveland, has been nearly all worked out. One of the most remarkable peculiarities which occur in the coal field of the county of Durham, is the great Greenstone Dyke, which enters the county from the south-east, a little above Preston-upon-Tees,* and, passing by Bolam, intersects the coal beds on Cockfield Fell, from which circumstance it has been commonly called the Cockfield Fell Dyke. Passing to the north west, it appears to run into the Butterknowle slip dyke and the Hett basaltic dyke, and thence on towards the western sea. Its effects on the seam of coal are thus described by the late H. T. M. Witham, Esq. : — " Although innumerable examples of the changes caused by the action of volcanic dykes have been already described by various authors, yet I have read * In the neighbourhood of Roseberry Topping, Yorkshire, this dyke deteriorates the quaUty of the iron- stone to the south of it, in the same manner as the Hett dyke injures the coal in its southern vicinity. of none whose influence has been more powerful or more extensive than that produced by the great Cleve land or Bolam Dyke upon the coal which lies under Cockfield Fell. " This colossal dyke is too well known to geologists to require here any particular remarks. The distance of its course, running from S. E. to N. W., is computed to be about 70 miles, and how much further it may go in either direction is as yet a matter of uncertainty. The breadth differs ; but from its extent generally, the mass of volcanic matter injected must have been enormous. " Under this common several seams of coal are worked. The coal, with the other strata, is thrown up to the south six yards by the dyke. In working towards it, when within fifty yards, the coal begins to change. It first loses the calcareous spar, which occurs in the joints and faces, and begins to look dull, grows tender and short, and also loses its quality for burning. As it comes nearer, it assumes the appearance of half-burnt cinder ; and approaching still nearer the volcanic mass, it grows less and less in thickness, becoming a pretty hard cinder, and only two feet six inches thick. Eight yards further, it is converted into real cinder ; and more immediately in contact with the basalt, it becomes, by degrees, a black substance called by the miners dowk or swad, resembling soot caked together, the seam of coal being reduced to nine inches in height. There is a large portion of pyrites lodged on the roof of that part of the seam which has been reduced to cinder. On each side of the dyke, between it and the regular strata, there is a thin gut or core of clay, about six inches thick, which turns the rain water on the rise side, and forces it to the surface, forming numerous springs as it traverses the country. The coal spoiled by the action of this greenstone dyke is as follows : — twenty-five yards of bad short coal, half reduced to cinder, sixteen yards of cinder, and ten of the sooty substance before described, making, together, fifty-one yards. Should a similar effect have taken place on the rise side, of which (from what has already been wrought) no doubt can be enter tained, it will make altogether upwards of one hundred yards in breadth of coal, which the effect produced by this dyke has rendered quite unfit for ordinary colliery purposes. The dyke itself, at this point, is eighteen yards thick. " Here, then, we have a most convincing proof that the substance ejected into and through this immense crack, must have arrived at the surface in a state of most intense heat, and which, when cooling, shrunk and contracted, so as to produce on each side what is DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. called the gut or core of 6 inches, now filled with clay, as before observed. Water-worn stones have occasionally been found embedded in the solid coal of the main seam. " The Greenstone of the dyke is of great value throughout the whole line for making and repairing roads, for which purpose it is quarried in every direc tion upon Cockfield Fell; it has been used for the above purpose upwards of seventy years, Mr. Dixon being the first person there who so applied it. "Whilst mentioning the Whin Dyke of Cockfield Fell, I must observe, that there are here, as throughout the whole coal field, numerous faults, all of which by the miners are called dykes : these are, perhaps, more difficult of explanation than the other, and as materially affecting the regular stratification of the coal, are of more importance to the mine owner. These are those cracks and slips which throw the coal and other strata out of their regular bearing, either up or down. These cracks are generally not more than five or six inches wide, and the substance contained in them is an indu rated impervious clay." Mr. Witham illustrated the dislocations of the coal strata in the Auckland district by a section, "from which," says he, " will be apparent the amazing force which must have been in operation when they were formed; the surface of the earth must have been agitated like that of the sea, and by a force which there can be no doubt was volcanic, from the identity of the effects produced on a small scale at the present day." Mr. Francis Forster, colliery viewer, in 1830 pub lished an investigation of the nature of the several specimens of coal, &c, from this dyke, from which the following conclusions are drawn : — The basalt is light grey, fine-grained, and compact, interspersed with crystals of felspar ; specific gravity, 2-672 ; loses eight per cent, in a strong air-furnace heat, and becomes fused into a brown glass. The coke or carbonized coal, mixed up with the basalt, is extremely hard, fracture uneven, grey, mixed with irregular streaks of carbonate of lime and sulphuret of iron; specific gravity, l-957, that of the coal which it represents being 1-27. The coke, when reduced to powder, and calcined in a strong red heat, leaves 23 per cent, of heavy incombustible powder, of a reddish colour. The "water-worn stones" alluded to by Mr. Witham, commonly called " rolled stones," are found in a por tion of Cockfield Fell colliery, of about 3 acres in ex tent, on the north side of the dyke. Their position does not seem to be influenced by that disruption, as they occur, in many instances, 400 yards from it, and occasionally at greater distances. Similar specimens have been also met with on the south of the dyke, as far as the outcrop of the coal. In the coal which is altered by the dyke, only one solitary specimen has been found, though they are abundant in the solid coal adjacent. WOODLAND. This township, as above observed, though belonging to the parish of Cockfield, does not adjoin the township of that name, but is bounded on the south by that of Langley Dale (from which it is divided by the Hindon Burn), by Eggleston on the west, by South Bedburn on the north, and by the last named township, Ham- sterley, and Lynesack and Softley on the east. This boundary includes Woodland Common on the west, a large tract of land which was formerly moor ; but an act for its division having been obtained in 1814, the whole is now inclosed and cultivated, except some large portions awarded to the Duke of Cleveland, John Bowes, Esq., and some other land-owners. In 1851, there were 46 inhabited houses, and 5 uninhabited, scattered over a bleak, sterile, and hilly district. The population of the township, at the periods of enumera tion, was 78, 102, 155, 223, 241, and 240 ; the latter number consisting of 122 males and 118 females. The value of the property assessed to the county-rate in 1853 was £685 16s. 4d. Woodland, during the year ended March, 1854, contributed £30 12s. to the Teesdale Union for out- relief and lunatics ; £16 18s. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges ; £1 0s. 6d. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 15s. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury list; and £3 Is. 4d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, inci dental expenses, &c. ; making a total of expenditure, £52 6s. lOd. This was less by 14s. than the expendi ture of the preceding year. The expenses of the registration amounted to £9 8s/ 6d. ; and the county- rate paid by the overseers was £11 19s. lOd. The village of Woodland is 3 miles north-west from Cockfield, and 7 north-by-east from Barnard Castle. It contains a public house, and a Methodist chapel, erected in 1826. A church school was commenced in 1850, and is under the superintendence of the Rev. Peter Barlow, curate of Cockfield, who also performs divine service in the school-room every Sunday after noon or evening. The only support given to the PARISH OF STAINDROP. school is from the Duke of Cleveland, the Rev. H. C. Lipscomb, and the Rev. P. Barlow, whose yearly dona tions are paid to assist the master, as he has only a small weekly pence from the parents of the children. The school is well attended. A shot factory was carried on in Woodland in 1797, by Messrs. Todd and Walker, a portion of the buildings of which still remain ; but the manufacture has been long discontinued. A tile-shed, with cottages and grounds attached, were sold by the Rev. J. J. Thorn- hill, in 1826, to Mr. Jeremiah Gibson, whose widow now holds the land upon which they stood ; but, since the sale, the making of bricks and tiles has been dis continued, the erections have been taken down, and the ground renovated to its former state. Woodland Colliery is near the outcrop of the coal seams, and is the most westerly coal mine in the county of Durham; it was worked by Messrs. Sharp and Hardy, under a lease from the Duke of Cleveland, up to May, 1837, and is now carried on by the assignees of the late Rev. William Luke Prattman. The coal is a continuation of that of the Auckland district. The colliery is situated within a mile north from the Cock field Fell Dyke, and somewhat less than two miles south from the Hett Dyke. The latter runs nearly parallel with the outcrop of the coal from Witton-le-Wear, and shows itself west of Hamsterley. Woodland was anciently part of the estate of the Earls of Westmoreland, and now belongs to the Duke of Cleveland. Three of the farms, adjoining this town ship on the south, are an isolated portion of that of Cockfield. PAEISH OF STAINDKOP. iHE parish of Staindrop is bounded on the north by Cockfield and the chapelry of Lynesack, on the north-west and west by the chapelry of Barnard Castle, on the south by Gainford, and on the east by the newly-formed cha pelry of Ingleton. It contains the townships or constableries of, 1, Staindrop ; 2, Raby and Keverstone ; 3, Shotton and Langley Dale ; and 4, a portion of Cleatlam, the remainder of which is in the parish of Gainford, with which parish it will be noticed. The townships of Ingleton, Hilton, and Wackerfield, previously portions of the parish of Staindrop, were in 1845 formed into the parochial chapelry of Ingleton. STAINDROP. The township of Staindrop comprises an area of 1,751 acres. The property was valued for the county-rate, in 1853, at £4,542 12s. 3d. In 1801, the population was 1,156; in 1811, 1,087; in 1821, 1,273; in 1831, 1,478; in 1841, 1,399; and in 1851, 1,429, of whom 649 were males and 780 females. There were, at the latter date, 292 inhabited houses, 6 uninhabited, and 3 building. In the year ended March, 1854, the township of Staindrop contributed £34 13s. 3d. to the Teesdale Union for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals ; £1 Is. for extra medical charges; £170 10s. 6d. for out-relief and lunatics ; £75 7s. 8d. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges ; £2 12s 6d. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; £1 8s. 6d. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists ; and £3 14s. 6d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. ; the total of expenditure being £289 7s. lid. The repayments of relief by relations, and other VOL. II. payments, amounted to £7 18s. 6d., leaving a net ex penditure of £281 9s. 5d., which was £39 8s. Id. more than that of the preceding year. The cost of registra tion was £3 3s. ; and the overseers paid £46 18s. 6d. to the county-rate. The town of Staindrop is a place of great antiquity ; its name is derived from Stein Dorf, the stony village, probably from its proximity to the Roman road between Street-le-ham and Watling Street. In veneration of St. Cuthbert, King Canute, when he performed his pilgrimage by Garmondsway, to the shrine in the cathedral at Durham, offered up at the altar Staindrop and Staindropshire, viz., Cnapaton (Snotterton), Scottun (Shotton), Rabi, Wacerfeld, Efenwowda (Even- wood), Alclet, Luterington, Elledun (Eldon), Ingeltun, Ticcelea (Thickley), and Mideltun. Bishop Flambard seized the dominion of Staindropshire from the convent, but restored it before his death; and in 1131, it was granted by Prior Algar to Dolphin, son of Uchtred, to be holden of him in capite, under the yearly rent of £4. The history of Staindrop is, after this event, N 84 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. involved in that of Raby. In devotion to the last of the Nevilles, 44 of the inhabitants of Staynedroppe joined in the Northern Rebellion, of whom 7 were afterwards executed. The town of Staindrop is situated on the turnpike road between the city of Durham and Barnard Castle, 19 miles from the former and 6 from the latter place. It is 32 miles by the turnpike road from Gateshead, 39 from South Shields, 32 from Sunderland, 35 from Hartlepool, 24 from Stockton, 12 from Darlington, and 244 from London. The town consists principally of one wide and well-built street, of about half a mile in length, and contains several elegant and substantial houses, the residences of many respectable families.* Staindrop Hall, formerly the property of the Ewbanks, was some time occupied by the widow of the Hon. Raby Vane, and is now the residence of John Gregson, Esq. Bishop Hatfield, on the 24th of January, 1378, granted a charter for holding a weekly market in Stain drop every Saturday, and annual fairs on the vigil of St. Thomas the Martyr and the two following days. The fairs have been long discontinued. The weekly market is tolerably well attended ; but the corn market, which was revived about 30 years ago, is again discon tinued. The stalls for the use of butchers and others attending the markets with their goods, are miserable erections, standing in the wider part of the street ; their removal, however, is contemplated. Staindrop has a rural police station in the Barnard Castle district ; and there is also a post-office, and several good inns and public-houses ; business to some extent is also carried on by drapers, grocers, shoemakers, joiners, smiths, and others. A mechanics' institution and literary society has recently been formed ; it consists of about 100 members. Lectures are delivered during the winter months, and besides the daily and weekly papers which are taken in, the library consists of upwards of 600 * A commission de htnatico inquirendo, which excited considerable attention in the county, was opened in the county courts, in the city of Durham, on July 5, 1854, in order to enquire whether Martha Colpitts, spinster, late of Staindrop, was a lunatic on the 1st of July, 1852, or at any time subsequent to that period. The object of the inquiry was to test the validity of the wUl of Miss Colpitts ; and Mr. Commissioner Barlow presided during the investigation. After an adjourned hearing, the jury found Miss Colpitts of unsound mind from the 30th July, 1852, and that she had continued to be so up to that time. The master, who concurred in the verdict, appeared to have been under the impression that it was unanimous ; but when the inquisition had to be signed, William Greenwell, of Bearpark Lodge ; Augustus Hind Hunt, Birtley House ; WUliam Hunter, East Parks ; and WUliam Jones, Cassop, dissented. Of course, this volumes ; the subscription is 8s. per annum for adults, and for young men under 18 years of age, 4s. The Staindrop Farmers' Club, commenced in 1846, through the exertions of Mr. Dean and a few other persons, continues in a flourishing state. The anniver sary meetings are held in January, at which, as well as on other occasions, addresses are delivered and papers read illustrative not only of the details of farming, but also of the position and prospects of national agriculture. The town is well supplied with good spring water. The Staindrop Gas Company was established in 1853 ; the works are erected at the east end of the town, and cost £1,300. The capital of the company is divided into shares of £5 each. The gas is of a very pure quality, and is introduced into the principal dwell ing houses, inns, and places of business. Petty sessions are held on alternate Saturdays, at which the presiding magistrates are, the Rev. H. C. Lipscomb, A.M., vicar ; Thomas M. Maude, Esq., of Selaby Park; and T. E. Edger, Esq., M.D., of Gain ford. Their sittings were for many years held in a room of the Queen's Head Inn ; but recently a place was obtained, adjoining the lock-up, at a rent of £8 a year, one-half of which was to be paid by the county, and the remainder by the magistrates, who, at the sessions held October 15, 1851, presented a memorial, requesting that the whole might be paid by the county treasurer. The chairman of the quarter sessions replied that the Staindrop magistrates had pledged themselves to pay this rent in consideration of the county enlarging and improving the court-house. At the sessions on April 7, 1852, an application was made on behalf of the Rev. H. C. Lipscomb, stating that his brother magis trates had refused to contribute towards the rent, the moiety of which had consequently to be defrayed by himself. The rule, however, was, that the county should, on the erection of any justice-room, contribute a sum equal to any local subscription.! made no difference in the result, as unanimity amongst 12 of the 17 who composed the jury was sufficient to carry the verdict. The majority were, Thomas Crofton, Holywell ; Robert Brack, Shincliffe; John Furneis, Coxhoe ; Richard GreenweU, Bishopwearmouth ; Charles Garthorne, Cornforth ; Robert Jackson, High BurnigiUj George LiddeU, Great Chilton ; PhUip MiUer, EshHaU ; John Pratt, Streatlam MiU; WUliam Proud, Cocken; Thomas Wearmouth, Byers Garth ; Robert Wilkinson, Great ChUton ; and WUliam MiUar, Old Pittington. t One of the magistrates observed that when a justice-room was held in a public-house, it inevitably led to drinking. If parties were victorious, they went to rejoice over their victory ; if they were de feated, they went to condole with their friends. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 85 The Langley Beck, which runs from the north-west, passes the town on the north, and separates it from Raby Park. It is crossed by a bridge near the east end of the church. A footpath was recently formed from this bridge to the church-yard, two-thirds of the expense of which was defrayed by the county. THE CHURCH. The original foundation of a church at Staindrop is considered to be coeval, at least, with the time of Canute's grant. The first incumbent is named in 1131 ; and the date of the nave, the earliest part of the church, has been conjectured to be about the year 1200, the period of transition from the Norman to early English.* The Rev. H. C. Lipscomb, in his " History of Stain drop Church," says that " no part remains (if we except one or two stones built into the walls which appear to have vestiges even of Saxon Work) of an earlier date than the middle of the 12th century. The church then consisted of a chancel and a short nave with very low aisles, and probably a low massive tower. In this state it appears to have remained for rather more than half a century, when an alteration took place which might more properly be called a reconstruction." This " was accomplished by elongating the structure two arches westward, which necessitated the erection of a new tower. The north aisle was then lengthened, and like wise the south one ; the transepts were added, the chancel constructed anew with its present existing sedilia, and a building erected on its north side two stories in height, the lower room being used for the purposes of a vestry, and the upper one possibly for the abode of an Anchoret. This room had three small windows pierced in a slanting direction through the wall, giving a view of the high altar, and still visible in the north chancel wall. These additions had hardly been perfected twenty years when it was found desirable to widen the south aisle, and this new addition was made in a superior style of masonry known by the name of ashlar work. The porch was at the same time built in a peculiar manner, being entirely constructed, even to its outside covering, of stone. The window at the west end, the only one remaining of its date (the middle of the 13th century), is a fine specimen of a triple-lancet under- a hood-moulding. At this time also some erec- * On the corner of a house at the east end of the town is an ancient sculpture of a man and a dog ; traditionally said to represent a person who jumped or feU from the church wlnle it was being buUt, and was foUowed by his faithful dog. tion was contemplated and commenced near the east end of the aisle. A small triple shaft with a moulded capital, surmounted by the first stone of the arch, was placed against the south side of the easternmost pillar of the nave. [This was removed when the church was restored in 1849.] It appears, however, that the work was abandoned — probably on account of the nave pier not being sufficiently substantial to form an abutment." The edifice, as it now stands, is spacious and stately, consisting of a tower, a nave and side-aisles, and a chan cel, but no transept, though there is a slight projection northward at the east end of the north aisle, containing three lancet lights. The principal entrance is by a south porch, above which is a sun dial. The doorway consists of plain mouldings, and the roof is strongly groined. There are four circular arches on each side of the nave ; those on the south side being adorned with the zigzag ornament, and supported by three lofty pillars, two of which are cylindrical and one clustered, with capitals of sculptured foliage. The cylindrical pillars, with their arches, may be considered the oldest portion of the present building, being of the Norman period, about the year 1170. Leland says, " I hard that afore Rafe of Raby time, ther was that alonly that now is the south isle." The arches of the north aisle resemble those of the south, but want the zigzag sculp ture. This part of the church is probably of the date of 1343, when Ralph Neville founded the chantries in the south aisle. It was enlarged and rebuilt about the close of the 15th, or beginning of the 16th century; at which time the ridged roof of the chancel was removed, and the present flat one substituted. The windows of the south aisle, which were restored about 50 years ago, are of the decorated style, under low arches. That at the east end is of the time of Bishop Neville, about 1345. Those in the north aisle are nearly in the same form as the south ones, but more modern. The clerestory has four low arched windows on each side. The tower is supported by lofty pointed arches, and has a large square staircase turret. The upper part of it, above the corbels, appears to have been added, about 1360, to the lower, over which it projects as a cornice. In 1788, the Hon. Mrs. Raby Vane made the parish a present of six bells, cast for the purpose in London. She died in May, 1789 ; and until within the last few years, a peal was always, on the anniversary of her death, rung to her memory. A pointed arch and a screen separate the nave from the chancel, which is a spacious and handsome portion of the church, being 49 feet in length, and 18 feet 8 86 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. inches in width. Within the altar rails, in the south wall, are three niches or stalls for the officiating priests, supposed to have been a part of the original chancel ; their date being probably about 1230. The arches have trefoil heads and deep mouldings ; but the inter vening shafts have been cut away. The keystones in the roof of the chancel are sculptured with the Neville's saltire. The east window, of about the date of 1500, is divided by mullions and transoms into three tiers of pointed arches under a low arch at the top, and retains an armorial coat of the Nevilles and their alliances with the Beauchamps and Plantagenets, in ancient stained glass. There are three large pointed windows on the south side of the chancel. To the north are two hand some windows, lately restored by the Duke of Cleve land, from a design in the perpendicular style by John A. Cory, Esq., architect. The place of the ancient roodloft, the stone stairs to which still remain, was long occupied by a seat for the Raby family ; but the oaken stalls, twenty -four in number, having been re stored by the Duke of Cleveland, are now occupied by his grace.. Some of the desks had been removed; but the carvings are bold and well executed. The Duke of Cleveland, when Earl of Darlington, presented the church with an excellent organ, the organist of which was also appointed and paid by him. The font is a plain octagon of Teesdale marble, with the Neville quarterings on its sides. In 1849, extensive repairs and restorations were made in the church. A new roof was placed over the south aisle, and the lead-work of the other parts re-cast. In the interior, the stone-work was cleansed from whitewash and repaired ; the northern and western gal leries were taken down, and the organ placed on the floor, by which arrangement the beautiful arches supporting the tower were thrown open. The old pewing, constructed shortly after the Restoration of Charles II. , was also removed, and replaced by seats of a more ecclesiastical character. The pulpit and reading- desk are executed in oak, of very elaborate designs, and with the seats, harmonize with the ancient perpendicu lar screen and stalls remaining in the chancel. The floor was paved with encaustic tiles of a chaste pattern, which gives an air of warmth to the whole. The architect employed was John A. Cory, Esq. The organ, on its removal, received several alterations and repairs, by Mr. Hoggett, of Darlington. By the alterations in the seats, additional accommodation for 75 persons was obtained. A grant of £30 in aid of the undertaking was made by the Incorporated Society for the Enlarging, Building, and Repairing of Churches, on condition that 86 seats, described in the plan, should be set apart and declared to be free for the use of the poor for ever. There are now 436 appro priated sittings, 86 free, and 113 for children; being a total of 635. The remainder of the expense, except £100 raised by church-rates for the roof, was defrayed by private subscription. Monuments. — The first monument which now attracts the eye of the visitor on entering Staindrop church, is that of Ralph Neville, first Earl of Westmoreland of that name, " who," says Leland, " is buryed yn a right stately tumbe of alabaster yn the quire of Stainthorp college, and Margarete his first wife on the left hond of hym ; and on the right hond lyith the image of Johan his second wife ; but she is buried at Lincoln, by her mother Caterine Swinesford, Duchess of Lancaster." This beautiful monument has been removed from the chancel, and placed, many years ago, in the south-west corner of the church, immediately within the entrance. Here, unfortunately, it was exposed for some time to the heat of a stove, under the influence of which one side of it, with its beautiful sculptures, were mouldering away ; some injury was also done to it by the perverted ambition of the ignorant, many of whose initials are scratched upon it. It seems to have been much mu tilated, indeed, at the time of its removal. It is still, however, one of the finest specimens of ancient sepul chral monuments to be found in the north of England ; and the description given of it by Gough is still gene rally applicable : — " It is an altar tomb of alabaster, with rich niches at the sides. The earl is represented in plated armour, a pointed helmet, with a flowered wreath and mail gorget. On the frontlet of the helmet, I. H. S., and from the sides a strap charged with SS, and closed by a triple ring. He has a large pair of curled whiskers. The seams of his armour are richly ornamented, and also the borders of his elbow-pieces. The saltire is on his breast : a belt crosses him with a sword at his left side, and a rich studded belt girds round the flaps of his armour, under which is a shirt of mail : his knee-pieces, and the beltings and seams of his cuises and gaberdines, and the instep-pieces, are also richly ornamented. Under his head is his helmet, supported by an angel, with the bull's head, his crest. At his feet, a lion, and behind the lion two monks at a desk. His second wife, Joan, daughter of John of Gaunt, at his left hand, is habited in a mantle, kirtle, and surcote, all richly edged PARISH OF STAINDROP. 87 and faced ; her hair braided and coomed with quatre- foils, with a cordon from two lozenge-fashioned studs : her sleeves buttoned to the wrists ; on her head, which rests on two cushions, the undermost tasselled, sup ported by three angels, is a coronet, and round her neck a collar of SS, fastened with a triangular ring, and a medal appendant. His first wife, Margaret Stafford, on his right hand, has a similar coronet and colla.r of SS ; at the feet of each of the ladies are two dogs, collared, peeping out from under their robes ; and at the feet of all two monks kneeling at their desks. The whole work was (from apparent remains) gilded and painted." At the north-west corner of the church is another monument, which has also been removed from the chancel. It is of wood, and inferior in elegance of de sign to the first, but is, notwithstanding, a highly interesting specimen of antique carving. It represents Henry, fifth Earl of Westmoreland, and two of his wives. By his will, dated 1563, he desired to be buried in the church of Staindrop, near Jane, his second wife. He is represented in armour, except the head, which is bare, the hair curled and the beard pointed ; the hands are elevated without gauntlets, the legs extended, and the feet resting on a greyhound. The hands of the two countesses are elevated ; and they are dressed in the fashion of their time, without ornament, and stiffly exe cuted. There is no effigy of the earl's third wife. The following inscription, in the old English character, now partly defaced, runs round the edge of the tomb : — '¦ This tombe made in the yeee of our Lord God 1560, and in ye second yeare of elizabeth, by the grace of god quene of england, franc, and ierland, defender of the faith, bi the COMMANDAMENT OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE Hen. EELE OF WESTMERLAND FOR HIMSELF AND HIS THREE WIVES, THAT IS TO SAY, AnNE, DOUGHTER TO therl of Rutland, Jane, Margaret, doughters " There are four compartments on each side of the tomb, formed by small carved pillars, and containing effigies of the eight children of the earl, dressed according to the time in which they lived, and respectively surmounted by the names of Et.inor — Ka- tharin — Ralfe — Charls — Edward — Ihon — Mare (obliterated) — Adeli. On the ends of the tomb are carved the arms of the family, with their alliances, the Plantagenets and Manners. Beneath, at the west end, "All yov that come to the chvrch to praye, sa paternoster and a crede, for to have mercy of vs, and all ovr progeny." On the east end, under the panels, " Made by the handes of John Tarbotons." The south aisle appears to have been the burial place of the Nevilles. '•' In it," says Leland, " as I hard, was buried the grandfather and grandedam of Rafe Raby, and they made a cantuarie there. In the waul of this isle appere the tumbes and images of three ladys, wherof one hath a crounet, [this figure is not now to be found,] and a tumbe of a man child, and a flat tumbe varii marmoris. Ther is a flat tumbe also, with a playn image of brasse [still in the church], and a scripture, wher is buried Richard, sun and heire to Edward, Lord of Bergavenny. This Edward was the fift son of Daraby" (de Raby). There are two mural arches in the south aisle, one of which is surmounted by a crocketted triangular canopy, wjth pierced tracery of a beautiful character, and springing from two heads, the one plain, the other crowned. The canopy terminates in a finial upon a bracket, probably intended for an image. Underneath is a recumbent effigy of a female, veiled by a deep hood, with garments descending to the feet. Another effigy, which seems to have been re moved into this recess, from some other part of the church, is now placed near the alabaster monument. The other arch, which is a plain circular one, also con tains the recumbent effigy of a female ; that of a child, which lay by it, has been removed into the other canopy. Figures of lions, &c, on which the feet of the effigies have formerly rested, are deposited with them in the recesses. To the east of the ornamented arch are the sedilia, or stalls for the priests who sung the office for the dead. Ralph de Neville, in 1343, obtained license from Prior Fossour and the convent to found three chantries to the Virgin in Staindrop church ; and it is probable that the south aisle was appropriated to that purpose. The two principal effigies have been supposed to represent Eufemia, daughter of Sir John Clavering, and Margery, daughter of Marmaduke Thweng, the first and second wives of John Lord Neville, father of the founder of the chantries. A small porch, with a groined roof, in the south-eastern angle of the south aisle, the door of which is now closed up, afforded in gress and egress to the chantry priests : a new doorway to the church-yard has been formed by cutting down the east window of the aisle. The endowment consisted of three acres of land for the building of a habitation for the priests, and of twenty marks annually issuing out of Stayndrop and Stayndropshire ; the founder covenant ing, notwithstanding, that the prior and convent, of whom he and his ancestors held Stayndropshire, should DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. continue to receive their annual rent of four pounds without deduction. Near the tombs of the Earls of Westmoreland is a beautiful mural monument of marble, with a bust, by Nollekins, inscribed to John Lee, Esq. ;* and there is another to the memory of Richard Sherwood, Esq., who died May 26, 1816, and Elizabeth his wife. The south aisle contains several inscriptions to the Blacketts of Hoppyland. Sepulchral stones of the Hutchinsons and others, the brasses of which have been taken away, are in various parts of the nave, &c. Within the altar- rails are stones over the burial places of Thomas Vane, Esq., who died June 25, 1675, aged 23 ; the Hon. Raby Vane, died October 23, 1769; and William, Duke of Cleveland and Southampton, died May 12, 1774, aged 76. A white marble points out the burial place of the Hon. Grace Vane, daughter of Christopher Lord Barnard, and the Lady Eliza, daughter of the Earl of Clare, who died October 2, 1710, aged 19. A lofty mural monument of white marble, on the south side of the altar, represents a sarcophagus, on which is a view in relief of Raby Castle ; above is a recumbent * John Lee, Esq,, an eminent barrister-at-law, for many years resided at Staindrop. He was a native of Yorkshire, and was born in 1733. For several years he attended the northern circuit, where he was familiarly known in the legal and professional circles of that time as Jack Lee. Notwithstanding his talents, he was not at first successful in his native county, but went many years to York assizes without receiving a single brief. On this subject, the following anecdote was related by the late Earl of Eldon : — ¦" One afternoon, after dinner, he declared that he found a prophet had no honour in his own country, and that as he never received a single guinea in York, he would shake the dust off his feet and leave it, the next morning, never to return again. Now Davenport, on hearing this determination, went to his own lodgings ; and himself, with Wedder- burn, drew up a brief." — It " purported to be in a matter entitled the king against the inhabitants of Hum town, for not repairing a high way ; setting forth the indictment and the names of the witnesses to be examined, and their testimony, in a most skilful manner, and they sent it to Lee's lodgings, with a guinea as the fee. Lee came into the circuit room in the evening, and Wedderburn exclaimed, ' Bless me, Lee, I thought you were gone !' ' Well,' said Lee, ' it is very extraordinary : I was just going. I was shaking the dust off my feet in this place, as an abominable place, that I never would see again, when, lo ! a brief is brought to me, and I must stay.' ' WeU,' said Davenport, ' in what cause may that be?' Lee said, ' In an in dictment, the king against the inhabitants of Hum town.' ' 0 dear !' said Davenport, they brought me a brief in that case with a bad guinea, and I would not take it. I dare say they have given you the bad guinea.' ' I have it in my pocket,' said Lee ; ' here it is.' Daven port looked at it and said, ' Yes, this is the same guinea,' and put it in his pocket. Wedderburn and Davenport then told him the joke they had practised to have the benefit of his company a little longer at York. I think, upon memory, though he was a very good- tempered man, he never forgave this joke." From that time, however, he led almost every cause at York ; and when Mr. John effigy, looking up to a cherub, which displays a wreath ; and the inscription commemorates Henry, the second Earl of Darlington, who died at Raby Castle on the 10th September, 1792, aged 65. On the north side of the altar is a beautiful mural monument, on which is sculptured Faith leaning on an altar ; a cherub near her supporting an urn ; and beneath is an inscription to the memory of Margaret, Countess of Darlington, eldest daughter of Robert Lowther, Esq., of Meaburn, Westmoreland, who died September 10, 1800. Ad joining this is another, representing a sarcophagus, above which is a female figure reclining on a couch, and an angel directing her attention upwards to cherubs who are presenting a crown : it is inscribed to the me mory of Katherine Margaret, Countess of Darlington, daughter of the sixth and last Duke and Duchess of Bolton, who died at Cleveland House, in the 40th year of her age, on the 16th of June, 1807. A beautifully sculptured monument, of the purest white marble, by Westmacott, was erected in the centre of the chancel to the late Duke of Cleveland, on the 2nd of August, 1843, by the duchess dowager. Scott (afterwards Lord ChanceUor Eldon) joined the northern circuit, he was treated with great distinction and kindness by Mr. Lee, who then had a good deal of business. As the circuit, in those days, was usually performed on horseback, Lee and Scott used to ride homeward together at its close, one to Staindrop and the other to Newcastle. " Of John Lee" wrote the Earl of Eldon, " I love to indulge in the remembrance. To me he was most kind in my younger days. He was a very powerful cross-examiner of a wituess. I remember a witness remonstrating against the torture of his cross- examination. The man, who was clothed in rags, said, ' Sir, you treat me very harshly, and I feel it the more because we are relations.' 'We relations, feUow !' said Lee; 'how do you make out that?' ' Why,' said the man, ' my mother was such a person, and she was the daughter of such a man, and he was the son of a woman, who was the daughter of a person (naming him) , who was your great grand father, or great, great, great grandfather.' 'Well,' said Lee, 'you are right, he was so. And then, my good cousin, my good fourth or fifth cousin, speak a little truth, I beseech thee, for the honour of the family — for not one word of truth, cousin, hast thou spoken yet.' " The subsequent career of Mr. Lee was successful and dignified. He was for some time attorney-general for the county palatine of Lancaster, and afterwards for that of Durham ; and he represented the borough of Higham Ferrers in pariiament. He also, under Lord Rockingham's administration, successively fiUed the offices of sohcitor and attorney-general to the crown, to the latter of which he was pro moted in November, 1783. After a life of probity and honour, he ex pired on the 5th of August, 1793, in the 61st year of his age, and was interred in Staindrop church, where the monument was erected to his memory by his widow. This lady was the daughter of Thomas and Tabitha Hutchinson, and died on the 17th of August, 1812, in the 78th year of her age. A tablet, bearing an elegant inscription, was placed on the most western pUlar of the south aisle by her daughter, the late Miss Lee, of Staindrop, who died on the 4th of April, 1851, aged 74, after a life of unobtrusive benevolence. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 89 The College. — Bishop Langley, by license, dated November 10, 1408, empowered Ralph Neville, Earl of Westmoreland, to found a college in Staindrop, to consist of " one custos. eight chaplains, four secular clerks, six esquires, and six other poor persons ;" the license does not confine the founder to numbers or their quality. In Tanner's Notitia, the establishment is described as "a college for a master or warden, six priests, six clerks, six decayed gentlemen, six poor officers, and other poor men, to the honour of the Virgin Mary. It was endowed at the Dissolution with £170 4s. 6d. per annum, in the whole, and £126 5s. lOd. clear." The endowment originally consisted of two messuages and twelve acres in Staindrop, granted by the earl towards the maintenance of divine service; besides which the churches of Letham in Lancashire, and of Brigham in Cumberland, were appropriated in augmentation. The college adjoined the church, and appears to have been finished by the surviving countess, as Leland states that " Johan erectid the very house self of the College of Stainthrop. It is set on the north side of the collegiate chirch, and is strongly builded all of stone." The remains of its ruins were in the recollection of the last generation of inhabitants in Staindrop. The number of stalls in the chancel was increased on the foun dation of the college, and those at present existing were then erected. It is probable that the earl intended this house for the reception of his military retainers, or those servants more immediately about his person who should be reduced by misfortunes, or otherwise dis abled. In 1544, William Rievaux, Conan Denande, Charles Elmedon, William Wren, jun., Ralph Gower, and James Tenante were the inmates. The following is a list of the masters : — Robert Knayton, cl., 1432 ; John Norman, 1438 ; WiUiam Lambert, occ. May 1, 1459, and 1477 ; Thomas NevUle, priest, (rector of Brancepath) ; WiUiam PoUerd, July 20, 1498 ; John Claymond, A.M., (vicar of Norton, 1498), October 12, 1500; WilUam Maudesley, A.B., 1501, p. res. Claymond ; Edmund Natras, S.T.P. (rector of Middleton-in-Teesdale), 1537 ; Thomas Garnard, 154 — , p. res. Natras. Registers. — Books Nos. 1 to 3 contain baptisms and burials from 1635* to 1759, and marriages from 1635 to 1719 and 1723 to 1760 ; No. 4, baptisms from 1760 to » There were, in that year, 43 baptisms, 11 marriages, and 33 burials. As compared with this, there were, in the year 1850-51, 44 baptisms, 8 marriages, and 39 burials. From 1644 to 1646, "through want of a minister, and care lessness of the clerk during the wars, much of the Register is lost ; only here and there a name registered." 1806, and burials from 1760 to 1893 and 1805 to 1806 ; No. 5, baptisms from 1806 to 1812; No. 6, burials from 1807 to 1812 ; and Nos. 7 and 8, marriages from 1760 to 1812. The Impropriation, Advowson, and Vicarage. — That the prior and convent of Durham continued to exercise some jurisdiction over the church of Staindrop, after the territory had been granted to Dolphin, son of Uchtred, has been inferred from the license granted to Ralph Neville in 1343. It was, however, rectorial till 1412 ; the Bishops of Durham being the patrons. In 1319, an agreement occurs between Bishop Beaumont and Nicholas de Stayndrop with Isabella his wife, by which the bishop gives a sparrow-hawk for the advow son of the church. The rights of Bishop Hatfield also, as patron, were reserved on the institution of John Ingilby to the rectory in 1347 ; but in 1372, the ad- vowsons of Staindrop and Brancepeth had become vested, by some exchange, in John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, from whom they are supposed to have passed to the Nevilles. On the institution of the college, Bishop Langley, April 12, 1412, with the consent of the prior and chap ter of Durham, annexed the impropriation and posses sions of the church. " Yet, lest the cure of souls should suffer neglect, the bishop ordains that a perpe tual vicarage shall be instituted, to which, when vacant, the warden and chaplains of Staindrop college shall present a clerk, being either one of their own number, or some other fit person being in priest's orders, of sufficient learning, and honest conversation, and who shall have competent skill in chaunting, and shall be able to perform and administer all other duties to the cure of souls pertaining, to be admitted and instituted by the bishop and his successors; and that the pa rishioners may, on emergency, have the readier access to their vicar, the incumbent for the time being shall occupy one decent and sufficient chamber within the college, nigh to the gate, in which he shall abide and sleep, and shall daily eat at the costs of the college, with the wardens and chaplains, as one of the establish ment, lest living alone he should be tempted to extra- vagation." " And besides the premises assigned for his residence, the vicar shall receive, in full of his 1652, June 14. " Mem. From this time tUl August there was noe minister ; soe that the chUdren were carried to other parishes to be baptized." 1709, March. "From this time tUl 21st Nov., 1710, no account at aU can be given of the register, by reason of the carelessness of John Pearson, the late clerk. Tho. Lamb, Curate." 90 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. portion, twenty marks annually from the warden in penny rent, by two equal payments at Martinmas and the Nativity of St. John the Baptist ; and in every case of such payment being in arrear for fifteen days, the warden, &c, shall forfeit twenty pounds sterling to the bishop's almoner." The warden was also to pay 40s. annually to the bishop's exchequer, and 20s. to the prior and convent, as an indemnity for any loss by reason of the premises; also 10s. annually from the glebe to the bishop. After the Dissolution, the advowson of Staindrop church remained for some time in the crown. King James I., by letters dated January 24, 1612, granted to Francis Morris and Francis Phillips all the tithes, &c, of the parish, of the value of £55 10s. 9d. ; they agree ing to pay to the vicar £6 13s. 4d., and £6 13s. 4d. to an assistant chaplain. In 1635, Charles I., on the humble petition of Sir Henry Vane, Knt., granted license to Bishop Morton to create and establish a per petual vicarage within the parish church of Staindrop, with power for Sir Henry to endow it to the annual value of £57 or therebouts. Under this license he endowed it with a manse and garden, the petty tithes of Ingleton, Hilton, Wakerfield, and Staindrop, and the oblations and Easter dues, and presented the living to the Rev. Nathaniel Ward. Staindrop rectory ; patron, the Bishop of Durham. Dedication to the Virgin. Rectors. — Aldwin presbytor de Stayndrop, occ. 1131 ; John de CUthe, pr. Edw. I., 1274 ; William de Routhbur, 1294 ; WiUiam de Quickham, 1325; John de Ingleby, 1347, p. m. Quickham ; WUliam de Dent, 1362, p. res. Ingleby ; WUliam de Deighton, 1363, p. res. Dent ; John Alwent, 1410, res 1412. * Nathaniel Wahd. — This martyr to his loyalty was one of the sons of John Ward, minister of Haverhill in Suffolk. His elder brother, Samuel Ward, B.D., was u, preacher of considerable emi nence at Ipswich. Nathaniel is understood to have been originally a student at law'; and, after a residence of some years abroad, he was presented to the vicarage of Staindrop by Sir Henry Vane, where, it has been said of him, " He was upon an outpost, and he did his duty there, as feeling that he belonged to the main body." In January, 1639, he writes, "At home I am engaged in a constant struggle against my corrupt nature ; abroad I have to contend with impiety and barbarism.'' The obligations required of the clergy, at that time, by the ruling powers, were very distasteful to Mr. Ward, who, in 1644, either left or was ejected from his living, and joined the Cavaliers, then in arms in Cumberland. At the siege of Milium Castle, the ancient seat of the Huddlestons, he received a mortal wound. His noncupatory will, by which he bequeathed his lands, tenements, and hereditaments to his wife Mary and her heirs, was made in the presence of John Huddleston, John Tempest of the Isle, Thomas Hutton of Hutton- John, John Heath of Ivepyer, and Robert Grey. t Rev. Peter FrsHEB,.— Dr. Sherwood, of Snow Hall (which see), contributed the following obituary notice to the Gentleman's Maga- "Vioars. — (Patron, Staindrop College). — WiUiam Home, 1412 . John Norman, 1432 ; John Rote, or Note, 1471-1476 ; John Robson; Thomae Homer, 1498, p. res. Robson ; Thomas Bentley ; Thomas GumeU, 1537, p. res. Bentley (Bishop Tanstal granted him license to resign to John Wareyn, for a competent annual pension, dated 27th December, 1537) ; Robert Skyrro, 1541. Stipendiary Curates. Annual value, £6 13s. 4d. for the officiating minister, and £6 13s. 4d. for an assistant ; in toto, £13 6s. 8d. reserved out of the impropriation. Henry Skathlock, 1556, p. m. Skyrro ; Francis Brackenbury occurs Jan. 16, 1564, parish priest of Staindrop ; Robert Dixon, 1577; Henry Setree occ. 1588 ; Robert Dixon, 1595, p. m. Setree ; Nathaniel Wood, A.M., 1615; Robert Dixon, jun., A.M., 1616; John Stockdale, sequestrator curatos, 1617. The vicarage restored 1635 ; cert, val., £44 5s. Patron, the Duke of Cleveland. Nathaniel Ward, A.M., 1635 ;*— MUlet ; —Bowes ; Samuel Feake, A.M., 1653; Simon Gilpin, 1660; Simon GUpin, A.M., 1700, p.m. his father; Thomas Browne, 1717 ; Benjamin Burgess, 1728 ; William Gibson, 1740 ; Peter Fisher, 1746 ;f George Davison, March, 4, 1794, p. m. Fisher ; John Jones ThornhiU, A.M., June 21, 1806, p. m. Davison ; John WiUiam Drage Merest, A.M., June 8, 1829, p. m. ThornhiU ; Harry Curteis Lipscomb, A.M., October 30, 1846, p. res. Merest. The great tithes of the whole parish are vested in the Duke of Cleveland. In January, 1838, T. F. Scarth, Esq., agent for his grace, called parochial meetings of the six townships of the parish, for the purpose of making an agreement for the general com mutation of the tithes, agreeably to the act of 6 and 7 Geo. IV. ; and an arrangement was made for the purpose. Two small fields or closes are attached to the living zine:—" On the 5th of Sept., 1793, died at Staindrop in the county of Durham, in the 85th year of his age, the Rev. Peter Fisher, who had been vicar of that parish upwards of fifty-six years. He was rector of Cockfield, in the same county, and of Woodham Walter, in Essex ; a man no less venerable for his virtues than his years ; who, without any extraordinary briUiancy of intellect, had plain good natu ral parts, which he had dUigentiy cultivated. In divinity his reading was constant, almost to the last moment of his life. He was rich in the knowledge of the scriptures, and happy in his manner of ex pounding them ; a neat composer, a grave and dignified preacher ; but he was chiefly distinguished by the more rare and valuable qualities of the heart, by his unaffected piety and unbounded bene volence. Mildness and condescension, humility and gentleness, beamed from his countenance, and influenced all his demeanour, rendering him very amiable in common life, and much regarded by all who knew him. Of the sick he was a diligent and conscientious visitor ; to the poor and needy a Uberal benefactor. By his parish ioners, among whom he had been abundant in labours more than half a century, he was greatly beloved ; and no doubt the 'good old parson,' as they used affectionately to style him, wUl long live in their remem brance." PARISH OF STAINDROP. 91 as a glebe, subject, at the discretion of the Duke of Cleveland, to the payment of £10 per annum ; and there is also a parsonage-house. The living is held with that of Cockfield, see page 79. CHAPELS. Friends' Meeting House. — The Society of Friends formerly had a meeting house at Raby, on the demoli tion of which they erected a substantial building at Staindrop, capable of accommodating about 250 persons. There is a burial ground attached. The register books contain entries of births from 1777 to 1793 and from 1795 to 1819, and burials from 1776 to 1799 and 1795 to 1820. Independent Chapel. — A congregation of Inde pendent Calvinists has long existed, through the instru mentality of the late Rev. J. L. Prattman, in Staindrop. The present neat and commodious chapel, capable of seating about 350 hearers, was opened on the 30th of May, 1827. The Rev. J. Jackson, who was minister at that time, was succeeded by the Rev. R. Thompson, A.M., the present pastor. The register book, which is kept by the minister, contains 57 entries of births and baptisms between 1806 and 1837. The chapel was registered, pursuant to the acts 6 and 7 Wm. IV., c. 85, and 1 Vict., c. 22, for solemnization of marriages, on the 8th July, 1837* Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. — Between 30 and 40 years ago, the Wesleyan Methodists purchased a house on the south side of the street, which they con verted into a chapel, capable of containing about 150 persons. Sunday schools are attached both to this and the Independent chapel. The Primitive Methodists are not numerous in the town of Staindrop ; but since 1827 they have had a room appropriated as a place of worship. In the year ending Midsummer, 1853, the Staindrop branch of the Darlington Auxiliary Bible Society con tributed £3 10s. on the purchase account, and £11 10s. free; and 25 Bibles and 24 Testaments were distri buted in the same period. * In April, 1837, a distraint for church-rates was made on the Rev. R. Thompson and four of his congregation, and on three members of the Society of Friends. The goods were sold by auction in the mar ket-place ; but as there was no competition, the proceeds feU short of the expenses. VOL. II. CHARITIES. School. — In 1710, John Grainger, Esq., bequeathed £300 for teaching 30 poor children of Staindrop. The sum of £15 yearly, being interest at the rate of five per cent., was, a few years ago, paid by Thomas Papillon, Esq., of Acrise, near Folkestone, in whose hands the principal was vested; and the schoolmaster, in consi deration thereof, instructed 30 children in reading, writing, and accounts, without any charge. The inte rest, however, is not now paid, the bond for the same having been lost. Sunday-school. — A Sunday-school was established for the poor children of this parish above 70 years ago, by a subscription of the then Earl of Darlington, Mrs. Raby Vane, and other parties. The capital was after wards augmented by the late Duke of Cleveland; and the amount, £300, was placed in his hands, at five per cent, interest. The school was held in the vestry ; but during the incumbency of the Rev. J. W. D. Merest, a large and commodious building was erected near the church, as a school-room, having distinct portions for boys and girls. About 60 children usually attend. A salary of £6 6s. a year is paid to the master, and the rest of the income is applied in the purchase of books. Brabant's Charity. — In respect of this charity (see vol. i., p. 428), 19s. is received by the churchwardens at Easter; Is. being deducted for land-tax. This money is carried to the general charity account. Poor's Lands. — It is not known from whom the following lands were derived; but for a considerable length of time they have been let by the vicar, church wardens, and twenty-four for the time being, for chari table purposes. 1. A field, containing about 3 acres, called the Lee Close, let at the yearly rent of £10 10s. 2. About 7 acres of land, called the Ackwards, let at £34. 3. A garden, containing about three-quarters of an acre, let at £7 14s. 6d. 4. An allotment, called the Moor Butts, set out upon the inclosure of Staindrop Moor, in 1764, to John Brownless, the churchwarden, in trust for the poor, in respect of their ancient lands. The allotment contains 2\ acres, and is let at £14 15s. A small parcel of land was sold in 1826 ; and the pro duce of the sale, £32 5s. 7d., is deposited in a bank in Darlington. The whole of these sums, with the pro ceeds of Brabant's charity, amounting to £67 18s. 6d., are divided into 20 parts, as follow: — For Staindrop township, 7 ; Raby, 5 ; East Quarter (including Wack erfield, Hilton, and Ingleton), 4 ; and Langley Dale and Shotton, 4. The Staindrop share is distributed 92 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. soon after Easter, chiefly to widows and other poor persons not receiving parochial relief, in sums varying from 5s. to 10s. each. In Raby, the donations vary from 8s. to 10s. The township of Ingleton receives two-fifths of the portion assigned to East Quarter, and the remainder is divided equally between Wackerfield and Hilton : these shares are distributed in sums varying from 5s. to 25s. In Langley Dale and Shotton, the donations vary from 10s. to £2. Township of Staindrop. — John Simpson, by will, dated April 5, 1680, bequeathed to his wife, Ann Simp son, all his lands in Staindrop, subject to an annual payment of 20s. to the minister, &c, for the putting out poor children apprentices, or to be distributed at their discretion amongst poor widows and fatherless children in Staindrop. Before the year 1794, this property had been divided ; and 14s., part of the rent- charge, is now paid by the Duke of Cleveland's steward, as charged upon a house belonging to his grace ; 4s. is paid by John Hodgson, shoemaker, in Staindrop, as charged upon a house belonging to him ; and 2s. is paid by the representatives of the late Miss Lee. The whole is generally applied towards putting out a child of the township of Staindrop apprentice, or in supply ing clothing for such child when bound out. Snotterton, supposed to be the Cnapaton of Canute, is situated about a mile west from Staindrop. It was anciently a manor, though it now consists of only a farm, with a house called Raby Grange, built in 1831 on the site of the old family mansion, the walls of which were surmounted by an embattled parapet, with crock- etted spires at the corners. The Fitz-Meldreds, and their descendants the Nevilles, are its first recorded possessors; and it passed from the latter, in 1411, to a family whose heiress married John Bainbrigg. He died in 1516 ; and his successors for four generations were owners of Snotterton, leaving their coat and crest sculptured over the principal door of the mansion. In 1607, George Bainbrigge (who married a sister of Sir George Bowes, Knight Marshal) sold the estate to Toby Ewbanke, Esq., of Staindrop Hall, eldest son of Henry Ewbanke, prebendary of Durham. It was afterwards held by the Smarts,* from whom it passed to the Earl of Darlington, and is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland. A portion of the freehold called Blakeley, however, passed through the Baileses, Douth- * Of this family was Christopher Smart, the poet, of whom a notice appeared in vol. i., p. 327. waites of Westholme, Garths of Somerhouse, and Hil tons of Killerby, to Sir William Bowes, Knt., of Streatlam, in whose descendant it is still vested. Staindrop Moor. — In 1764, an act was passed for dividing and enclosing Staindrop Moor, stated to con tain about 500 acres. The Right Hon. Henry Earl of Darlington, as lord of the manor of Raby, claimed the soil of the said moor ; and Francis Smart, Esq., as lord of the manor of Snotterton, also claimed such soil, as being parcel of and belonging to the said manor. The Earl of Darlington was also impropriator of all the tithes, both great and small, arising within the township and parish of Staindrop. The proprietors entitled to right of common were, the said Henry Earl of Dar lington, Thomas Hutchinson, John Tidy, William Hutchinson, William Lodge, William Blackett, James Hudson, and others. The act provided that the said moor be set out, divided, and allotted, on or before the 1st of May, 1765, by the commissioners, William Jepson of Heighington, John Dobbinson of Witton Castle, and Michael Hodgson of Field House, gentle men. One full sixteenth part (quantity and quality considered) was to be allotted in lieu of the right to the soil, and the remainder divided amongst the whole of those holding right of common, in satisfaction of such rights, after the formation of proper highways, quarries, and watering places. The act was not to prejudice the rights of the lord of the manor, nor his privilege of working mines and quarries, and of making roads and waggon- ways to them, or removing hedges and other ob structions thereto. Damages to individuals by such means were, after notice given in Staindrop church on a Sun day morning, to be decided upon by two or more justices of the peace, who were to order the same to be paid by the lord of the manor ; and if the parties should be dissatisfied with their decision, then such damages were to be settled by a jury. No tithes of corn or hay were to be paid from the allotments for five years after the award of the commissioners was given. The expenses of the act, surveying, &c, were to be jointly borne by the owners of allotments. Mary Bowes, widow of George Bowes, Esq., claimed a right of common on the above moor, in respect of certain lands or tenements within her manor of Streat lam, over and above what she was entitled to in respect of Blakeley farm ; which right was denied by the Earl of Darlington and the other proprietors of land. It was therefore directed by the act that the said claim should either be decided upon by a feigned action at PARISH OF STAINDROP. 93 law or by arbitration ; and that no part of the said moor should be divided, nor the act be any-ways put in execution, until after such trial or award. Francis Smart, Esq., lord of the manor of Snotterton, also contended that he and his ancestors, and all those whose estate he hath in the said manor, had, time immemorial, claimed and exercised a right of dominion and seigniory in, upon, and over the said common or moor, as lords of the said manor, over and besides a right of common to which he was entitled in respect of his lands and tenements; and this claim of dominion and seigniory was denied by Henry Earl of Darlington. It was therefore enacted that the said Francis Smart should be at liberty either to try the said right at law, or to have it determined by the arbitrators ; and that no part of the common or moor should be divided, nor the act be any-ways put in execution in relation thereto, until the decision of such trial or arbitration. The decisions were in favour of the duke, and a division thereupon took place. The award was depo sited in the office of the Exchequer, city of Durham, on March 21, 1765. RABY AND KEVERSTONE. The township of Raby and Keverstone, to the north of that of Staindrop, contains an area of 2,752 acres ; the property was valued for the county-rate, in 1853, at £2,649 12s. lid. The population, at the six decen nial returns, was 213, 201, 203, 247, 284, and 313. Of the latter number, 148 were males and 165 females ; and there were, at the same date, 51 inhabited houses. The contributions of the township of Raby and Keverstone to the Teesdale Union, for the year ended March, 1854, were as follow : — For out-relief and lunatics, £23 lis. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £19 16s. 7d. ; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 12s. ; for law costs, revis ing barrister, and jury lists, 10s. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £1 10s. The total of expenditure, £45 19s. 7d., was £7 10s. 5d. less than that of the preceding year. The cost of registration was 10s. 8d. ; and the overseers paid £43 14s. 8d. to the county-rate. * Some have endeavoured to prove that the provincial word nevel, to pummel with the fist, is derived from the pugnacious character of the lords of Raby ; but the word is evidently founded on another common both in the north of England and in Scotland, namely, nief, or neave, the fist. The name of NevUle is derived from Nova Villa. HISTORY— THE NEVILLES. Raby formed a part of the grant of King Canute in Staindropshire, and was also included, though not by name, in that of Prior Algar and the convent to Dol phin, son of Uchtred, Earl of Northumberland. Raby is first mentioned as being the lordship of Meldred, the son of Dolphin ; and his successor, Robert Fitz-Meldred, intermarried with Isabel, daughter of Geoffrey, and sister and heiress of Henry de Neville, who died without issue, 11 Henry III., 1227. The ancestor of the Nevilles was Gilbert, an admiral in the fleet of the Conqueror in 1066, whose grandson, Geoffrey, married Emma, daughter and heiress of Bertram Bulmer (see Brancepeth, vol. i., p. 429) ; and gratitude for the possessions acquired by these marriages induced Geoffrey, the son of Robert Fitz-Meldred and Isabel his wife, to assume the Neville surname.* Robert Neville, eldest son of Geoffrey, was lord of Raby, Brancepeth, and Sheriff Hutton, and flourished from 1257 to 1282. He appears as governor of the Border castles of Wark and Norham in 1258-9 ; warden of the forests north of Trent, 1261 ; governor of York castle, 1264; of Pickering castle, 1266; and of Bam- borough, 1270. From Geoffrey, a younger brother, were descended the Nevilles of Hornby. Robert Neville, son of Robert above named, by his wife Isabella, daughter of Roger Bertram, Baron of Mitford, married Mary, one of the daughters, and eventually sole heiress of the powerful Baron, Ralph Fitz-Ribald, lord of Middleham. Dugdale relates that this Robert Neville frequented the company of a certain lady in Craven, in an adulterous manner ; and, being surprised by some of her husband's friends, was by them so mutilated that he died of the wound, June 6, 1271, and was buried at Coverham, Yorkshire. His wife, Mary of Middleham, remained a widow 49 years, " dwelling upon her own inheritance," and, on her death in 1320, was buried at Coverham, of which her ancestors were the founders. Ralph Lord Neville. — On the death of the elder Robert Neville,t he was succeeded by his grandson, t A rhyme, supposed to be the oldest in the north, is a lament for this baron : — " Well I wa sail ys homes blaw Haly Rude this day ; Nou es he dede and Ues law, Was wont to blaw them ay." 94 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Ralph, only son of the second Robert and Mary Fitz- Ranulph, who, though represented as spending his time amongst the monks of Marton and Coverham, occa sionally took that part in public affairs which befitted his rank. Amongst other things, he, with John Fitz- Marmaduke, espoused the popular cause against Bishop Beck, when that prelate infringed the privileges of the tenants of St. Cuthbert. (See vol. i., p. 48.) He was summoned to parliament from 23 Edward I., 1295, till 5 Edward III. ; and was ordered to join Edward I. at Portsmouth, in the 22nd year of his reign. He also shared in the disastrous campaign in Scotland with Edward II. When long past the prime of life, he was sentenced by Bishop Kellaw to do penance in Stain drop church for the crimes of incest and adultery with Anastasia his daughter, wife of Lord Walter de Fau- conberg. He married, first, Eufemia, daughter and coheiress of John de Clavering ; and, secondly, Mar garet, daughter of John Thweng. On his death, April 18, 1331, he was buried at Coverham. During his life, a dispute arose relative to the annual offering of a stag to the prior of Durham, on St. Cuthbert's day in Sep tember, as a part of the tenure of Raby, but which would appear to have been rather a custom than a legal claim. " Contrary to the custom of his ancestors," says Dugdale, " he not only required that the prior of Durham, at the offering of that stag, ought to feast him, and all the company he should bring, but that the prior's own menial servants should for that time be set aside, and his peculiar servants and officers put in their stead. Whereupon, amongst other of his guests, he invited John de Balliol of Barnard Castle, who refused to go with him ; alleaging, that he never knew the Nevills to have such a priviledge there ; Sir William de Bromp- ton (the bishop's chief justice) likewise acknowledging, that he himself was the first who began that extravagant practice : for being a young man, and delighting in hunting, he came with the Lord Nevill at the offering of the stag, and said to his companions, Come, let us go into the abby and wind our horns ; and so they did. The prior further adding, that before the time of this Ranulph, none of his predecessors ever made any such claim ; but when they brought the stag into the hall, they had only a breakfast, nor did the lord himself ever stay at dinner, except he was invited." This baron not being thought competent by his mother to manage the world's wealth, she settled her manors of Middleham and Coverdale on her grandson. This "gentleman," Robert Neville, commonly known as the Peacock of the North, has left little memorial behind him, except his being " a very, very peacock,"* and that, on the bridge of Elvet in Durham, he assaulted and slew Richard Fitz-Marmaduke, while the latter rode to open the county courts, as the bishop's seneschal. In the year following this outrage, of which, it appears, no public account was taken, the " peacock" led a band to plunder the Scottish March, when he was met by James, Earl of Douglas, at Bewick Park, Northumberland, and was there overthrown and slain in the contest. Ralph Neville, next brother to Robert, was taken prisoner on the same field on which his brother fell, and succeeded to the estates 5 Edward III., being then 40 years of age, and steward of the royal household. He revived the dispute with the prior of Durham, rela tive to the stag, and claimed " to be entertained the whole day, and likewise the morrow at breakfast ;" his own officers being admitted to wait on him, jointly with those of the prior. The prior knowing him to be powerful, and that the country durst not displease him, and to gain his favour, in regard he had no small interest at court, " was content that for one time he should per form it as he pleased, yet so that it might not be drawn into example." And so Lord Neville, having carried his point, brought but few with him, and these more for the honour of the prior than a burthen ; and shortly after dinner took his leave, but left one of his servants to lodge all night, and breakfast there, pretending that, as a son and tenant of the church, he would not be bur- thensome to it by bringing a great train ; for, said he, " What does a breakfast signify to me ? Nothing." This Ralph Lord Neville, in 7 Edward III., was a commissioner to settle articles between the king and Edward Baliol, and was joint warden, with Henry Percy, of the East and Middle Marches, in the follow ing year, when he was also governor of Bambrough castle. In the 11th year of that reign, he was again a commissioner in Scotland, and, shortly after, lent the king all the money arising from the sale of wood in his manor of Flaxfleet in Yorkshire. From the 5th to the 39th year of Edward III., he was summoned to parlia ment. He was also employed in several of the subse quent negotiations, both with Scotland and France; and in the 33rd Edward III., he attended the king into * It has been conjectured that this title originated in an armorial badge. In 1651, the manor of Winston was held of Raby by one broad arrow feathered with peacock feathers; and a sculpture above the north door of Staindrop church bears a faint resemblance of some bird, rather than to a Uon. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 95 the latter country, marched to Montlehery, and, accord ing to Froissart, "placed himself in ambush, with Lord Mowbray and other knights, about three leagues from Paris, where, after a sharp skirmish, the French were defeated." But the most conspicuous event in his life was his presence at the battle of the Red Hills, popu larly known as the battle of Neville's Cross. (See vol i., pp. 52, 384.) He married Alice, daughter of Sir Hugh de Audley, sister of Hugh Earl of Gloucester, and widow of Ralph- Baron of Greystock, by whom he had issue six sons and four daughters. After an active life, Sir Ralph died on the 5th of August, 1367, and was buried in the nave of Durham cathedral, being the first layman to whom that honour had been conceded. The tomb and mutilated effigies of himself and his wife still re main.* (See vol i. p. 266.) Sir Robert, second son of Ralph Lord Neville, married Margaret, widow of Sir Thomas Grey, and died without issue. Alexander, third son, born at Raby, became first canon and then archbishop of York, where he beautified and strengthened the castle of Cawood. Being much in favour with Richard II., the enemies of that king designed to imprison the archbishop in Rochester Castle; but he fled for protection to Pope Urban at Rome, " who partly out of pity (that he might have something for his support), and more out of policy (that York might be in his own disposal upon the removal of this archbishop), translated him to St. Andrew's in Scotland, and so dismissed him with his benediction." This translation, however, was by no means agreeable to the applicant ; as the archbishoprick of St. Andrew's was inferior to that of York in honour and revenue ; and, besides, the Scots, looking at that time with jea lousy on all Englishmen, could not but be particularly opposed to one of the family of Neville, so active in the wars against them. "Indeed," says Fuller, "half a loaf is better than no bread ; but this his new translation was rather a stone than half a loaf, not filling his belly, yet breaking his teeth, if feeding thereon. This made him preferre the pastorall charge of a parish church in Lovaine, before his arch-no-bishoprick, where • The offerings of his funeral consisted of a vestment of red velvet, richly embroidered with gold, silk, great pearls, and images of saints standing in tabernacles, which he gave to St. Cuthbert. His body was brought in a chariot drawn by seven horses into the bounds of the church-yard, and then carried upon the shoulders of knights into the middle of the church, where the abbot of St. Mary's in York (in consequence of the bishop's absence, and the impotency of the prior) performed the office of the dead, and celebrated the morrow mass, at which were offered eight horses, viz. four for the war,, with he died in the fifth year of his exile, and was buried there in the convent of the Carmelites." Sir William Neville, fourth son of Sir Ralph Neville, is frequently mentioned as having distinguished himself in arms, from 35 Edward III. to 8 Rich. II. , and is noticed, in the latter reign, as a chief leader of the Lollards. John Lord Neville, son of Ralph, was with his father at the battle of Neville's Cross, and afterwards, by his bravery and talents, contributed much to the aggrandizement of the house of Raby. He was knighted for his services at the barriers of Paris, and summoned to parliament 42 Edw. III. In the 44th of the same reign, he was constituted admiral of the royal fleet from the mouth of the Thames northwards, and retained by indenture to serve John Duke of Lancaster in war and peace. Two years afterwards, " about the Feast of the Nativity of S. John Baptist, he made that new work of marble and alabaster in the church of Durham, under the shrine of S. Cuthbert, which cost above two bun dred pound." (See vol. i., p. 268.) To this warlike baron is also to be chiefly attributed the building of Raby Castle, which he had a license to castellate in 1379. Whilst lieutenant of Aquitaine, he reduced that province to quiet, and took 83 walled towns, castles, and forts. On the expedition of Richard II. into Scotland in 1385, Lord Neville's train (which, with those of the other nobility of the north, formed the rearward of the army) consisted of 200 men at arms and 300 archers. His first wife was Maude, daughter of Henry Lord Percy, by whom he had two sons and five daughters. By his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of William Lord Latimer, (who, after his death, married Lord Willoughby, of Eresby,) he had a son and a daughter. He died at Newcastle-upon-Tyne on the 17th October, 1389, and was buried in Durham cathe dral, where his altar-tomb remains between the pillars of the south aisle. Sir Thomas Neville, second son of John Lord Ne ville, was summoned to parliament as Lord Furnival, 7 Richard II. four men armed, and all their harness and habUaments ; and four for peace ; and also three cloths of blue and gold. Four of the horses,. however, were redeemed after the funeral, by John de NevUle, son of the deceased, for 100 marks. Alice, his widow, sent to the sacrist 1 20 pounds in silver, to be employed in the repairs of the cathedral ; and also, for celebrating his anniversary, one vestment, two tunicles,, one cope, three albs, three stoles, four maniples of black satin, and another embroidered vestment to be used at the celebration of the sacrament. 96 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. John, son of Lord Neville by his second wife, was summoned to parliament as Baron Latimer, 5 Henry V. to 9 Henry VI., and married Maud, daughter of Thomas Lord Clifford, and widow of Richard Earl of Cambridge. His sister, Elizabeth, married Sir Thomas Willoughby, son of her mother's second husband. First Earl of Westmoreland. — Ralph, eldest son and successor of John Lord Neville, was advanced, under the name of Dan ( Dominus ) Raby Nevell, to the title of Earl of Westmoreland, in 1398, by Richard II. , from whom he received many other favours. When, however, Henry Duke of Lancaster landed at Ravenspur, the earl joined him, and was one of the principal actors in placing him on the throne as Henry IV. For these services, he was rewarded with the earldom of Richmond, and the office of Earl Marshal of England for life ; and he continued to enjoy the favour of Henry, sometimes seasoning the grave counsels he tendered by such rhymes* as the following : — " Who so wyU Fraunce wynne, Must with Scotland fyrst beginne." After the death of his first wife, Margaret, daughter of Hugh Earl of Stafford (for his marriage with whom a dispensation was obtained from the Pope, the parties being between the third and fourth degrees of consan guinity,) the Earl of Westmoreland married Joan, legi timated daughter of John Duke of Lancaster, and widow of Sir Robert Ferrers, Knt., and thus became brother-in-law to the king. When the Percys, aided by Owen Glendower and the Earl of Douglas, rose in rebellion against Henry, Westmoreland adhered faith fully to the monarch ; and, by driving back to Prudhoe Castle his old associate, the Earl of Northumberland, he prevented the junction of the latter with Hotspur at the battle of Shrewsbury. He afterwards, on the in surrection of Richard Scrope, Archbishop of York, made him prisoner by a stratagem of at least a dubious character, and delivered him to the king. Holingshead's account of the transaction is that the earl sent messages to the archbishop, in the forest of Galtres, to understand the cause of his great assembly, to which the prelate (who was in armour) answered that it was for fear of the king only, to whom he could have no free access for the multitude of flatterers about him, and shewed the articles of their complaints. The earl professed that he " liked of the archbishop's holy and virtuous intent," and induced him to persuade Mowbray, the earl marshal, also in rebellion, to ac company him to a place of conference with himself. At this meeting, Westmoreland agreed to do his best towards effecting a reformation, and said, " Well then, our travail is come to the wished end ; and where our people have been long in armour, let them depart home to their wonted trade and occupations. In the mean time, let us drink together, in sign of agreement, that the people on both sides may see it, and know that it is true that we be light at a point." The archbishop sent a knight with a message to this effect, to his people, who, seeing shaking of hands and drinking, returned home. Meanwhile, the other party stealthily increased, and the archbishop and earl marshal were arrested. Leland states that Westmoreland's army pursued that of the arch bishop, stripping and severely scourging those that they could lay hold of. The king then marched north against Northumberland, and, on his way, executed at Durham the Lord Hastings, Lord Fauconbridge, Sir John Colville of the Dale, and Sir John Griffith. In the reign of Henry V., the Earl of Westmoreland accompauied that monarch into France, and was pre sent at the battle of Agincourt, where he had in his train five knights, 30 lances, and 80 archers. Shake speare, who has pourtrayed a sketch of the sagacity, prudence, and subtlety of the earl, makes him wish, on this occasion, for " more men from England ;" to which the chivalrous king replies, " The fewer men the greater share of honour." The collegiate church of Staindrop owes its founda tion to the earl ; and on his death, October 21, 1426, he was buried there, and the gorgeous alabaster altar- tomb erected over him which still commemorates his memory (see page 86). His possessions in the county of Durham, at the time of his death, were immense. Besides the parishes of Staindrop and Brancepeth, and the advowsons of the respective churches, he had, according to an inquisition, manors, lands, buildings, or mines, at Elwick, Dalton, Hurworth, Nether Coniscliffe, Bolam, Ullerbush, Al went, Denton, Eglestcn, Holmeland, Hunwic, Tud- howe, Sunderland (Bridge), Wodyfal, Halleywell, Britley, Fyshburne, Oxenade, Coekerton, Cocksyde house, Derlington, Halghton, Mawfeld, Cockfield (with the advowson of the living) and Wodland, Eldon, Alansheels, Blakwell, Ivesley, Roulee, Hedeley, Corne- showe cum Hedleyhop, Thornell, Grenwell, Helmpark, Bynchestre, Bires, Whitworth, Whetlaw, Westberden, Pelton, Winlawton, in the city of Durham (with the advowson of St. Mary's in the South Bailey), Cambous in Bedlyngtonshire, &c. The domains of the earl in other parts of the king- PARISH OF STAINDROP. 97 dom were also extensive ;* but most of them were be stowed on the favoured issue of the second marriage. Sir John Neville, eldest son of the earl, commenced early in life to serve in the wars of France, where he was made governor of Vernoil in Normandy. " John Neville, Knight of England, with thirty glayves, dis comfited, by Estampes, fifty Frenchmen, taking divers of them." He was appointed to receive the submission of such places as succumbed to Henry V., and to "assault, reduce, and garrison those who stood out." In his own country, he was governor of Roxburgh and warden of the West Marches. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, and sister and coheiress of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent and Duke of Surrey, by whom he had three sons, Ralph, John, and Thomas (ancestor of the Nevilles of Wear- dale), and three daughters. He died in 1423, in his father's lifetime. Ralph, second son of the earl, married Mary, daugh ter and coheiress of Sir Robert Ferrers, of Oversley.f The daughters of the earl by his first marriage were, Maud, married to Peter Lord Mauley ; Philippa, to Thomas Lord Dacre, of Gilsland; Alice, first to Sir Thomas Grey, of Hoton, and afterwards to Sir Gilbert Lancaster ; Elizabeth, a nun at the Minoreses in Lon don ; Margery (or Anastasia), abbess of Barking ; Anne, married to Sir Gilbert Umfreville ; and Mar garet, married first to Richard Lord Scrope, and after wards to William Cressener, Esq. Richard Neville, K.G., eldest son of the earl by Joan Plantagenet,+ and to whom his father gave Mid dleham, was warden of the East and Middle Marches ; ereated Earl of Salisbury by patent, 4th May, 20 Hen. VI., 1442; governor of Carlisle, 1448; and grand chamberlain of England, 1460. He married Anne, * They are enumerated by Dugdale as follows : — the manor of Sti- ford, co. Northumberland : the manor of Boston, caUed Burt-hall ; the soke of Mumby ; the manors of Wikes, Frompton, Ledenham, Fulbeck, and Wastinburgh, co. Lincoln : the manor of Cheshunt, co. Hertford : Clavering and Calmore, co. Essex : the castle and manor of Sheriff- Hotton : the manors of Elmington, Skirbembeck, Yaresthorp, Raskeh Howke, Soreby, Wiberfosse, Stanfordbrigge, Haund-Burton, Knapton, Rise, Sutton-super-Darwent, Shirborne in Herford-Lithe, Apelton in Ridale ; the castle, manor, and lordship of Middleham ; the manors of Carlton, Coverdale, West Witton, Wood- hall, Kettlewell in Craven ; Thoraldby. New-biggin, with Bishopdale, Bainbridgge, Esingwold, and Hoby ; Gilling.Aideburgh, Bowes, For- set, Danby, Catrike, Arkelgarthdale. and New Forest ; also the castle of Richmond, with its members, the manors of Snape, WeU, Crakhal, R-ind, Newton, East Hawkeswel, Ruskby, Faceby, Carl ton in Cleveland, HUderwel, Calding&ton, South Cowton, Fergherby, Leybourne ; Sutton in Galtres, with the bailiwick of Langbergh, all in the county of York. Likewise the manor of Basingbourne, in daughter and sole heiress of Thomas Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, and was beheaded at Wakefield by the Lancastrians in 1461. His eldest son became Earl of Warwick (the " king-maker," see page 10). John Neville, second son of the Earl of Salisbury, was summoned to parliament as Baron Neville, 38 Hen. VI.; as Baron Montague, 1 Edw. IV., 1461; created Earl of Northumberland, 1465, which dignity he resigned 1470, and was created Marquis of Monta gue, KG., and Chancellor of England. He was slain at Barnet, April 14, 1471, and attainted. By his wife, Isabel, daughter and coheiress of Sir Edmund Irigle- thorpe, of Borough Green, Cambridgeshire, he had two sons and five daughters. George, the eldest son, was created Duke of Bedford, 1469 ; succeeded as Marquis of Montague, 1471 ; degraded from his dignity by act of parliament, 1477; and died without issue in 1483. Sir Thomas Neville, third son of the Earl of Salis bury, who married Maud, daughter of Robert Lord Willoughby, of Eresby, was slain at Wakefield with his father. George Neville, fourth son of the Earl of Salisbury, was born at Middleham, educated at Baliol College, Oxford, and consecrated bishop of Exeter before he was 20 years of age. Five years afterwards, he was made Lord Chancellor of England. On his consecra tion to the archbishoprick of York in 1470, he made a prodigious feast at his instalment to all the nobility, most of the prime clergy, and many of the gentry ; the contents of whose bill of fare were as follow : — 300 quarters of wheat, 330 tuns of ale, 104 tuns of wine, 1 pipe spiced wine, above 400 bucks, does, and roebucks, 80 fat oxen, 6 wild bulls, 1,000 wedders, 300 calves, 200 kids, 300 hogs, 300 pigs, 4,000 rabbits, 3,000 capons, 100 peacocks, 200 cranes, 3,000 geese, 2,000 chickens, Cambridgeshire ; Perrit, Soureby, the hamlets of Langwathby, Scoutby, Carleton, Lidell, Gamelesby, Blenherhasset, Wigton in AUerdale, and Bolton in AUerdale, aU in co. Cumberland. t " Sir Raff the rich Rugbe, [mentioned in the Battle of Chevy Chase], was probably Sir Ralph NevUle of Raby Castle, son of the first Earl of Westmoreland, and cousiu-german to Hotspur. In the more modern edition of the ballad, he is expressly called Sir Ralph Rabby, i.e. of Raby." — Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, vol. i.,p. 63. t After the death of King Henry V., a petition was sent to the regency by Lady Westmoreland, his aunt, praying that her " Chro nicles of Jerusalem," and the " Expedition of Godfrey of Boulogne," borrowed of her by the late king, might be returned. Henry, though a learned prince, seems to have had the bad habit of borrowing books and never returning them. The prior of Christchurch, in a most pitiful complaint, said that he had lent to his dear lord, King Henry, the works of St. Gregory, who had never returned them to him, their rightful owner. 98 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-V/EST DIVISION. 4,000 pigeons, 200 bitterns, 4,000 ducks, 4Q0hernsews, 200 pheasants, 500 partridges, 4,000 woodcocks, 400 plovers, 100 curlews, 100 quails, 1,000 egretts, 200 reese, 1,506 hot venison pasties, 4,000 cold venison pasties, 1,000 dishes of jelly parted, 4,000 dishes of plain jelly, 4,000 cold custards, 2,000 hot custards, 300 pikes, 300 breams, 8 seals, 4 porpoises, and 400 tarts. At the dressing and ordering of this feast, no less than 1,000 servitors, 62 cooks, and 515 kitcheners were em ployed. " But," says Fuller, " the inverted proverb found truth in him, One glutton-meal makes many hun gry ones : for some years after falling into the dis pleasure of King Edward the Fourth, he was slenderly dyetted, not to say famished in the castle of Calis ; and being at last restored by the intercession of his friends, died heartbroken at Blyth, and was buried in the cathedral of York, 1476." Sir William Neville, fourth son of the Earl of West moreland, was governor of Roxburghe Castle, and summoned as Baron Fauconberg 7 Hen. VII., 1429 to 1460 ; created Earl of Kent, 2 Edw. IV., 1461 ; Lord Admiral of England, and K.G. He married Joane, daughter and heiress of Thomas Lord Fauconberg, by whom he had three daughters. He died in 1462, at Pondelarche, in Normandy. George Neville, next son of Ralph, Earl of West moreland, had the estates of his father's uncle, John Lord Latimer, settled upon him, and was consequently summoned as Baron Latimer, from 10 Hen. VI., 1432, to 1469. He married Elizabeth, third daughter and coheiress of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, (see page 10,) and died December 9, 1469. His de- * The fortunes of this last-mentioned daughter, who was mother to two of the three kings of England belonging to the House of York, and grand- mother to the other, "may pass," says FuUer, "for the clearest instance of humane frail felicity. " HEE, HAPPINESS. "She was youngest daughter and chUd to Ralph, Earl of West morland, (who had one and twenty) and exceeded her sisters in honour, being married to Richard, Duke of York. " She was blessed with three sons, (who lived to have issue) each born in a several kingdom, Edward, at Bourdeaux, in France, George, at Dublin, in Ireland, Richard, at Fotheringhay, in England. " She beheld her eldest son Edward king of England, and enriched with a numerons posterity. "HEE MISERIES. " She saw her husband kiU'd in battel ; George, Duke of Clarence, her second son, crueUy murdered ; Edward, her eldest son, cut off by his own intemperance in the prime of his years ; his two sons but chered by their uncle Richard, who himself, not long after, was slain at the battle of Bosworth. " She saw her own reputation murdered publickly at Paul's Cros s by the procurement of her youngest son Richard, taxing his eldest brother for ^legitimate. scendant, Edmund Neville, of Latimer, on the attainder of the Earl of Westmoreland in 1569, claimed the earl dom, as heir male of Ralph, first earl. On his monument in Eastham church, Essex, he is styled Lord Latimer and Earl of Westmoreland. Thomas, next son, married Alice, daughter and heiress of — Seymour. Robert Neville, seventh son, was consecrated Bishop of Salisbury, 1427, and translated to Durham, 1438. (See vol. i., p. 57.) Edward Neville, eighth son, married, first, Elizabeth, sole daughter and heiress of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Worcestor and Lord Bergavenny ; and secondly, by papal dispensation, Catherine, daughter of Sir Robert Howard, and sister to John, first Duke of Norfolk. He had livery of the lands of Bergavenny, 14 Hen. VI. ; summoned as Baron of Bergavenny, 1450 ; and died October 18, 16 Edw. IV., 1476. From his first mar riage were descended the Barons and Earls of Abergavenny and the Nevilles of Billingbere. Cuthbert, Henry, and John, the remaining sons of the Earl of Westmoreland, died young. The daughters of the earl and his second wife were — Catherine, first married to John Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, who died in 1434, and afterwards to Sir John Wydville, Knt., son of Richard Earl Rivers ; Eleanor (or Elizabeth), to Richard, Lord Le Despencer, and afterwards to Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland ; Anne, first to Humphery Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, and afterwards to Walter Blount, Lord Mountjoy; Joane, a nun ; and Cicely, the youngest of twenty-one children, married to Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York.* " Yet our Chronicles do not charge her with elation in her good, or dejection in her Ul success, an argument of an even and steady soul in all alterations. Indeed she survived to see Elizabeth, her grand child married to King Henry VH. ; but Uttle comfort accrued to her by that conjunction, the party of the Yorkists were so depressed by him. She Uved five and thirty years a widow, and died in the tenth year of King Henry VII., 1495, and was buried by her husband in the quire of the coUegiate church of Fotheringhay in Northampton shire, which quire being demolished in the days of King Henry the Eighth, their bodies lay in the church-yard without any monument until Queen EUzabeth coming thither in progress, gave order that they should be interred in the church, and two tombs to be erected over them. Hereupon, their bodies, lapped in lead, were removed from their plain graves, and their coffins opened. The Duches Cicely had about her neck hanging, in a sUver ribband, a pardon from Rome, which penned in a very fine hand, was as fair and fresh to be read as if it had been written but yesterday. But, alas, most mean are their monuments, made oiplaister, wrought with a trowell, and no doubt there was much daubing therein, the queen paying for a tomb propor tionable to their personages. The best is, the memory of this Cicely hath a better and more lasting monument, who was a bountiful benefactress to Queen's CoUege in Cambridge." PARISH OF STAINDROP. 99 Second Earl of Westmoreland. — Ralph Neville, eldest son of Sir John, succeeded his grandfather as second Earl of Westmoreland. He married, first, Elizabeth, widow of John Lord Clifford, daughter of Henry Lord Percy (Hotspur), eldest son of Henry, Earl of Northumberland; and, secondly, Margaret, only daughter of Reginald Lord Cobham, of Star- borough, Surrey. He died November 3, 2 Rich. III., 1480. John Lord Neville, only son of the earl, married Anne, daughter of John Holland, Duke of Exeter, but was slain, on the part of Henry VI., at the battle of St. Alban's, 1451, during the life of his father, and left no issue. Sir John Neville, brother of the earl, married Anne, widow of his nephew, and also espoused the cause of the house of Lancaster, fighting on whose behalf, he was slain at Towton, on Palm Sunday, 1461. Third Earl of Westmoreland. — Ralph, eldest son of Sir John Neville, and his wife, Anne Holland, succeeded his uncle as third Earl of Westmoreland in 1480. He served in the army of the Earl of Surrey, and is mentioned in that nobleman's letter to Henry VIIL, giving an account of the storm of Jedburgh. He married Matilda, daughter of Sir Roger Booth, Knt., of Barton, Lancashire, and niece of Laurence Booth, Archbishop of York, by whom he had a son, Ralph Lord Neville, who married Edith, daughter of Sir William Sandys, of the Vine, Hampshire, but died in the lifetime of his father. Leland says, " This Lord Neville died, his father the earl yet living ; whereupon * At a horse-race on Gatherley Moor, near Richmond, Christopher NevUle made an assault on the heir of Rokeby. It is said that he was sent by his brother Henry, fifth Earl of Westmoreland, with 100 men, to kUl Rokeby ; but the father of the latter was so beloved that the son " was both defended and guarded from the violence of his adversaries, and was able so to have rebounded the blows given him by them, that they should have spilt the best blood in their bodies if his party had been willing.'' The old man, however, as justice, commanded peace, saying, " Gif [although] it grieves me to see him bleed that bleeds, yet peace, the peace." t To Margaret Gascoigne, a daughter of this countess by her first marriage, whose fortune had been entrusted to the earl, he granted in Ueu a lease of Oxon-le-Field. The foUowing appears in the WUls and Inventories published by the Surtees Society : — " An Inventory of aU the goods and cattells wich were Margaret Gascoigne's single-woman, within the bishopbrick of Durham, lait deceased, at the whyt friers in London, praised by ThomaB Lacy. gentilman, Anno Domini 1567, the xxiiij of March. First, one lesse of grang called Oxnold Feld night Dallington, maid by the Right honorable Henry lait Erie of Westmerland, to hir in recompenc of hir chUd's porcon wich he had remaining in his hands of the yerely value of lxZ., the rents paid and aU other paments discharged. Item VOL. II. the erle took much thoght, and dyed at Horneby Castle, in Richmontshire, and there is buryed in the paroche chirche." The death of the broken-hearted earl occurred in 1523. Fourth Earl of Westmoreland. — Ralph, son of Ralph Lord Neville and Edith Sandys, born February 21, 1499, succeeded, on the death of his grandfather, as fourth Earl of Westmoreland, K.G., and was one of those who signed the letter to Pope Clement VI., threatening to throw off his supremacy unless he con sented to the divorce of Henry VIIL and Queen Catherine. He married Catherine, daughter of Ed ward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, by whom he had issue seven sons (two of whom, Cuthbert and Christo pher,* were attainted for their participation in the rebellion of their nephew) and eleven daughters. He died April 24, 1549-50. Fifth Earl of Westmoreland. — Henry Neville, fifth Earl of Westmoreland, K.G., and warden of the West Marches, married, first, Anne, daughter of Tho mas Manners, Earl of Rutland ; second, Jane, daughter of Sir Richard Cholmondeley, Knt., and widow of Sir Henry Gascoigne, Knt. ;f and a third wife, named Margaret.J He died in August, 1563, and was buried at Staindrop, beneath the tomb which he had prepared for himself and two of his wives (see page 87). By his first wife he had issue four sons (the three youngest of whom died without issue) and four daughters. Sixth Earl of Westmoreland. — Charles, son and heir of the above, and sixth Earl of Westmoreland, the said erle did by bis last will and testament geve and bequith vnto hir aU that his interest and lease for terme of yeres which he had in the deanrye of Darlington of yerly value the rents paid, &c, of xiZ. She neither aught any debts nor yet gave any legaces." Her ward robe, "First a goune of chaungable taffatie laid one with gold laic, 66s. 8d. A goune of sUk grogram laid one with silk laic, 46s. 8d. One old goune of maccado, 26s. 8d. Two kirtells wherof one of changable taffatie th' other of grogram, 30s. Two peticotts, thone of skerlet th' other of stamell, 35s. Two frenche hodes with lytle billi- ment of gold, 66s. 8d. Other necessary apparell, 26s. 8d. Summa of the apparell, £li 18s. 4d." In reference to the deanery of Darlington, it may be observed that the editors of Spelman's Sacrilege attribute the misfortunes of the later Nevilles to their possessing certain dissolved monasteries. X Dugdale mentions but two wives ; Jane, daughter of the Earl of Rutland ; and Margaret, daughter of Sir Richard Cholmley. Surtees, in his pedigree of the Nevilles, enumerates Anne Manners, a second wife named Jane, and Margaret Cholmondeley ; but, in the text, he mentions the will of the earl, dated 1563, in which " he desired burial in the church of Staindrop, near Jane (Chomley), his second wife." The authority of the wUl is conclusive. loo DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. was 21 years of age at the time of his father's death, and married Jane, eldest daughter of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey* (the poet), beheaded in 1547,and sister to the Duke of Norfolk, who was also beheaded June 2, 1572. It does not appear that the earl was imbued with any of that martial feeling which had characterised his ancestors, but rather that he was inclined to field sports and private enjoyment. With Sir George Bowes, of Streatlam, he seems to have lived on friendly terms ; and on the 17th of May, 1569, as commissioners under the great seal, they attended the musters, taken upon Hamilton Hills, of all the inhabitants of the wapentake of " Langbarughe," from the age of sixteen and upwards. In September following, he appears to have been engaged in dispensing hospitality at Brance peth ; as, on the 7th, Lord Hunsdon, having finished his warden court at Alnwick, writes to Cecil, from Newcastle, " I rode to my Lord of Westmerland, too be mery." It may be hence inferred that his loyalty hitherto was unimpeached. The fatal Rising of the North, however, occasioned by the designs of the friends of Queen Mary of Scot land to effect a marriage between her and the Duke of Norfolk, brother-in-law to the Earl of Westmoreland, was accelerated by the indiscreet representations of those in the confidence of the latter nobleman. Wavering between allegiance and fear, both he and the Earl of Northumberland delayed obeying Elizabeth's summons to appear before her, until it was too late, and they were fully committed to the insurrection. The alarms to which Northumberland was exposed at Topliff, where it was insinuated that he was to be seized and conveyed away " moffeled " to the council, induced him to fly to his coadjutor at Brancepeth. On the 14th of November, according to Sir George Bowes, " at iiii of the clocke in the afternoone, the said erles, accom- panyd with Rychard Norton, Francys hys sone, with dyvers other of hys sayd sones, Xpoferr Nevell, Cud- bert Nevyll, uncles of the sayd Erie of Westmerland, and Thomas Markynfelde, wythe others, to the nomber of three [score] horsemen, armed in corsletts and coytts of playt, with speares, harquebusses, and dagges ; and entred the mynster theyr [at Durham], and theyr toke » When the Earl of Surrey was confined in the Tower, his children were placed under the charge of the Duchess of Richmond, their aunt, to be brought up and educated ; and Fox (the martyrologist), their instructor, bears honourable testimony to the talents and abUi- ties of the Lady Jane, who, he says, profited so wonderonsly in the Greek and Latin tongues, " that she might well stand in competition with the most learned of the time, for the praise of elegancy in both kinds." She is described as being one of the most learned ladies of a | all the bokes, but one, and theyme and the comu- nyon table defaced, rentt, and brok in peces. And after made a proclamatyon in the quenes name, that no man, before theyr pleasur knowne, shuld use any ser- vyce : and callyng the cetezens before theyme, told theyme how they had done nothyng but that they wold avowe, and was after the quenes procedynges. And so taryinge about the space off one hour, they departed ; puttyng a watch of twenty- four townsmen to the towne, which tooke a servante of myne which I sent thither, and hyme caryed to hys lodgynge, and theyr he was kept tyll this morninge, and so came away. — In haste, at Barnard Castle, the xvth of Nov., at xii of the cloke, 1569."f The queen's command that Westmoreland should instantly repair to court, was, unfortunately, not deli vered until he had thus gone beyond the power of retractation. On the same . day on which the above transactions took place at Durham, he wrote from Brancepeth to the Earl of Sussex as follows : — " My Lord — I arne sorie that my happe is so harde that I can not obey the Quenes Majesties letter, in coming up to her presence, with howe greate a grefe it is to my harte, God knows, who ever loved her, and will do during lyfe, never meninge anie thing prejudi- ciall to her Majesties person, but have bene, and ever wil be, her faithfull and trewe subiecte. Althoughe I be now forced to thos extremities, contrarie to her pie- sure and your counsell, to remaine here, seking to strengthen myself against the malice of myne enemies, which daily seke my destruction ; for which cause I am compelled to gather my frends by anie meanes I thinke would beste serve my torne; nevertheless mayning faithfully to her highnes, althoughe I knowe it shall be otherways taken. If the Quenes Majesties letters had come before this day, I had been more clere from offence than now I arne ; because my going to Duresme hathe made the pepell which I have been the stay of, all this whyle, till I feared to have bene plukt out of my howse ; which unlawful means I -never ment to yelde to, rather chosing to dye, then thus cruelly to have bene sent up. But, if her Majestie had, before this extremitye, preparyd for me, I would willingly learned age, when knowledge, as weU as virtue, was deemed essential to the female character. t This letter, which is extremely difficult to be read, has been evidently written in great haste ; as it is addressed to "my singular good Lord the Erie of Westmerland, Lord President of the Quenes Majesties counsell established in the North Parts," instead of to the Earl of Sussex. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 101 have obeyed ; but not to avoyde those dangers I have presumed so far, as I dare not venture to kome in [her] Majesties presence. But, good, my lord, for the frend- ship sake before tyme profeste, cease not to be a frende for me to her Majestie, though I look you wil be other- wyse. Thus wyshing you much honor and helth, and trusting you will advertise her Majestie of this my excuse, I will make an ende." An outline of the history of the rebellion has been given in vol. i., p. 67 ; and various circumstances con nected with its details will be found under the heads of the localities in which they occurred. It is, therefore, only necessary in this place to mention such particulars as relate to the Earl of Westmoreland. The proclama tion issued at Darlington was penned, by his command, by Thomas Jenny, at the dictation of Marmaduke Blakiston. Like other documents promulgated by the earls, it accuses the queen's counsellors of seeking to destroy the ancient nobility and the true religion : — "Thomas, Earl of Northumberland, and Charles, Earl of West moreland, the queens most trewe and lawful subjects, and to aU her highness people, sendeth greeting : — Whereas diverse newe set upp nobles about the Quenes Majestie, have and do daUie, not onUe go aboute to overthrow and put downe the ancient nobilitie of this realme, but also have misused the Quenes Majesties owne personne, and also have by the space of twelve years nowe past, set upp and mayntayned a new found reUgion and heresie, contrarie to Gods word. For the amending and redresing whereof, divers foren powers doo purpose shortlie to invade thes realmes, which wUl be to our utter destruction if we do not ourselves speedilie forfend the same. Wherefore we are now constreyned at this tyme to go aboute to amend and redresse it ourselves, which if we shold not do, and forenners enter upon, as we shold be aU made slaves and bondsmen to them. These are therefore to wiU and require you, and every of you, being above the age of sixteen years and not sixty, as your dutie towards God doth bynde you, for the settinge forthe of his trewe and catho- licke religion, and as you tender the common wealth of your cuntrie, to come and ressort unto us with all spede, with all such armour and furnyture as you, or any of you have. This fail you not herein, as you wiU answer the contrary at your perills. God save the Quene." On the retreat of the insurgents from Yorkshire, the Earl of Westmoreland superintended the siege of Bar nard Castle, and was present at its surrender. On the advance of Sussex, he fled with the horsemen. The adventures of the earls, during their flight, are thus narrated in a letter, dated the 22nd December, from Sussex to Sir W. Cecil : — " I have intellygens of suche as were present, and sawe it, that the next morning * " Of LiddisdaU the common theifis Sa peartUe steUlis now and reifis, That nane may keip Horse, nolt, nor scheip, Nor yett dar sleip For their mischiefis." — Maithmd. after the erles came in to Lydysdale, Martyne Elwood, and dy vers others of the pryncypall men of Lydysdale, dyd rayse ther force agenst the erles, Black Ormston, and the reste of ther company, and offered the fyght ; so as both partyes were lyghted, and in the end Marten Elwood sayd to Ormston, he should be sory to enter deadly feude with him by bloodshed, but he would charge him and the reste before the Regent, for keep ing of the rebells of England, jf he did not put them out of the country ; and that, yf they were in the coun try after the next day, he would do his worste agaynst them, and all that mayntained them. Wherupon the erles were dryven to leave Lydesdall, and to fly to one of the Armstrongs, upon the batable, or the borders betwyn Rydsdale and England. The same daye the Lydesdale men* stole my Lady of Northumberlands horse, and her ij wemens horses, and x other horses; so as when the erles went away, they left her and all the reste that had lost their horses on foote, at John of the Sydesf House, a cottage not to be compared to any doge kennel in England. Such is their present mysery ; and at their departing from her, they were not 50 horse, and my L. of Westmorland changed his cote of plate and sword, with John of the Syde, to be the more unknowen." Two days afterwards, Lord Hunsdon writes, " The erles rebelles and their principall confederates (as I here) do lurke and hide themselfes in the woodes and desertes of Lyddesdale ; but, if they tary on the Bor ders there, Sir Jo. Forster is in good hope to have som of them, or it be long. The erles have changed their names and apparell, and have made themselffes lyke to the owtlawes of Liddersdale. We have to presume and to suspect gretely, that they shall receyve som helpe and comforte of the L. Hume and of the Carres in Tividale ; but the greatest feare is, of their escape by the sea, eyther on the este, or on the west coaste. Order is given here to the capteynes of the Q. Mates shippes, to attende well on the este coaste ; and if you have done any thing for the west coast, they shall the more hardly escape." On the 7th of January, Sir John Forster writes to Cecil, " Treuth it is, the Earl of Westmoreland pre sently lying in the overmost-chamber in Farnyhurst Tower, and my Lady of Northumberland is lodged in the lowest chamber. Ther is in the erles companie f " He is weil kend, John of the Syde, A greater theif did never ryde. He never tyris For to brek byris ; Ouir muir and myris Ouir gude ane guide." — Maitland. 102 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Francis Norton and other six of the erles servants, the Welberies, Henry Ridley, and others ; old Norton, Markenfield, Egremont Radcliffe, Swinborne, and Tem pest. They are all presently with the Lord of Buck- leugh, at Branxham." Whilst the Earl of Westmoreland was sheltered by Sir Thomas Ker, laird of Farnihurst, he was visited by his kinsman, Robert Constable, Avho had been employed by Lord Leicester and Sir Walter Wildmay, to go to Scotland after the rebels, where he might percase " worke sum feate to betrap some of them."* Constable endeavoured to gain his confidence, for the purpose of betraying him, and represented the disgrace brought on the house of Neville, which, he said, had "been honourable, and of great antiquity, and never spotted till now." The earl's tears, on this, flowed abundantly, and he confided his hopes and sorrows to the bosom of his treacherous relative, who advised him to come to his house when all was quiet ; a course which would have consummated Constable's villainy. The earl gave him a ring from his finger, to present to the countess as a token, and to will her " to take no care nor thought for him, for all his care was for her and his children ;" and that he hoped by God's grace to recover the queen's favour. He also desired that his lady should send one of her best jewels to Lady Ker, and the fairest gelding she could procure for the laird, as a return for the charges he had put them to. Notwithstanding these particulars, related by Constable himself, that wily * Constable did not afterwards attempt to palliate the baseness of his conduct in tryiug to trap those that trusted in him ; but said that he hoped, if he were successful in his villany, the queen would spare their lives, otherwise his conscience would be troubled. t By the following extract of a letter from the Queen of Scots to her ambassador in France, the Archbishop of Glasgow, dated August 4, 1574, some negociations appear to have been in progress: — "To the English, and more especially to the Earl of Westmoreland, you wUl communicate my good intentions when I shall have the power [alluding to the means in France] ; and with regard to his appointment, I should be very glad that he had it, provided that two things were secured — the one his safety, of which I entertain doubts] because the remainder of those who are of his religion, and who are better supported than he would be, are beginning to withdraw, as you wUl hear is the case with Oxford. In short, it is not easy for a good Catholick to continue hole, without danger of his life, or of what is still dearer to him — his conscience. Thus, informing you of the offers which have been made to him, I shall, in my first dispatch, state what I may hereafter discover. Certainly, I wiU not advise him to refuse a good offer, if it occurs ; but I would admonish him in accepting it, that he takes good care not to injure the service of God, his friends, and his reputation ; and not to be certain of his life, except on dishonourable conditions." She then directs a sum to be paid to Westmoreland, the amount of which is not named. hypocrite hints at a jealousy of the laird of Farnihurst about Westmoreland and his " new wanton lady." The events which followed prevented the Earl from accept ing his kinsman's hospitality. The particulars of the interview of the latter with the countess at Brancepeth have been given in vol. i., p. 430. The earl was strongly suspected of remaining con cealed about Brancepeth for some time after the rebellion, and also to have been present at several inroads on the English Border. He is said to have been at the convention of Leith, and to have " sat in cownsell wyth the rest of the lords." In the autumn of 1570, he embarked at Aberdeen, and shortly afterwards arrived at Flanders, where, on the representation of the Duke of Alva, King Philip of Spain allowed him a pension of 50 crowns per month. He was anxious to obtain a pardon ; but the correspondence that has been pre served shows that his hopes continued to grow fainter with the lapse of time.f The Countess of Westmoreland, after many ineffec tual endeavours to procure the pardon of her husband, died in retirement in 1593, and was buried at Kenning- hall on the 30th of June. Her attachment to the Pro testant religion seems to have weakened the charge brought against her by the Earl of Northumberland, of having instigated her husband to the rebellion J Queen Elizabeth had at first allowed her a pension of £200 per annum for herself and her three daughters ;§ and in May, 1577, an additional annuity of £100 was granted. J " What meanes did the Lady of Westmorland use to provok the erle, hir husband, to procede?" " None that he knoweth, tiU the last daie, when they thought to have broke [up], and every man to have shifted for himseU ; at which tyme, she dyd provoke hym and the rest, with vehement per- swasion and cryengs, as he hath formerlie declared." — Northumber land's Examination. § The family of the Earl and Countess of Westmoreland consisted of four daughters, viz., Catherine, Eleanor, Margaret, and Anne. Catherine Neville was married privately to Sir Thomas Grey, Knt., of Chillingham, Northumberland, at the manor house of Battersby, Yorkshire, on the 7th of November, 1585. He died without issue April 9, 1590, leaving his fortune, after the payment of some legacies, to his widow. The degrading suspicions to which this descendant of a noble house was afterwards subjected, are exemplified in the following letter from Bishop Mathew to Lord Burleigh, 27th May, 1598 :— " Right Honorable :— Maie it please your good lordshipp to be advertised, that I have lately caused the lady Katherine Gray, widdow, one of Westmoreland's daughters, to be apprehended by Mr. John Conyers, the sheriff of this countie, and Mr. Robert Tailbois, one of the justices of peace, and have admitted her to the safe custodie of Christopher Glover, gaoler of Duresm Castle, to be kept forthcoming in his private house nihe the gaole. This ladie was PARISH OF STAINDROP. 103 She was, says Henry Howard, of Corby Castle, " a lady of great virtue and acquirements, accompanied with such gentle feminine manners, sense, and affec- for many yeares sought by the late earle of Huntington ; was de tected for the receaving and releving of sundrie seminarie priests, as Stafferton, with the flesh mark in his face, (with whose too much familiaritie she hathe been judged in London,) Bost, who since was executed, Mushe, and Patteson, besydes many others, whose names come not presently to mynde. She hath always Uluded the processes and messengers of the ecclesiasticaU high commission, by eloyning and withdrawing herselfe hitherto from all appearance. Of late tyme, somewhat synce Martinmas last, she took to i'arme a house and land, called Grenecroft, nigh Lanchester, in this countie, 8 myles hence, northe and by west, letten unto her by M'rs Hall, a widowe, conformable, and sister to Nicholas Tempest's wife of Stella, that great recusant, where the ladie hath been coming and going ever since, and sometimes made good cheere to twentie of her frendes at once, especiaUy at Christmas : and where, if I be truly informed, there was bad rule kept, both spirituaUy and carnaUy, Within half a rmle of that house, on this side Lanchester, dwelleth at the manor- house, one WUliam Hodgson, an olde servant and follower of the earle, whose sonne, caUed John, is a speciaU recusant, and is reported (but how certainly, I know not) to have married this ladie. This WUliam Hodgson is a perUous fellow, conformable to her majestie's proceedings, and fernior to her highness of the whole deanery of Lanchester dissolved, worth, it is said, some cc markes, or better, above the yerely rent. In Lanchester towne dweUth Lancelott Hodgson, when he is at home, but he is now in prison for recusancie> a dangerous person, and not unlerned ; who the last yere was married, as himselfe confesseth, by an old popish priest, but no seminarist, nor at a masse, as he aUegeth, to Marie Lee, daughter to another of therle's chefe old servants and officers at Brancepeth, in those daies. The manor of Lanchester belonging to me, and Brancepath lordship to her majestie, by therle's attaynder, doe adjoin together, and there fore, I thinke, the ladie Graye did there mean, for the tyme, to sett up her rest so nigh her father's olde tenants ; the house itself also (standinge towards the feUs, and nigh a pretty wodde) strongly buUt of newe, with many shifting contrivances, may yelde good opportu- nitie to lodge and intertayne, not only other Ul guests, but, percase, thearle himself, si et quatenus. Nowe, that she is in hands, I would from your lordship be directed, with some expedicion, how she shaU be dealte with and used ; 1. whether detayned in durance, or bayled upon good bond for her appearance from tyme to tyme ; 2. whether she shall be touched only for recusancie, or charged with other matters that may occurre ; 3. whether, if any thinge amountinge to felonye shaU arise against her, she shaU be tried thereof at the next assises her'e, or in Northumberland, as her sister the ladie Margaret was anno 1593, and by her majestie was gratiously pardoned in hope of the continuance of her pretended conformitie (from which I heare she has relapsed since) ; 4. whether she shall be suffered to keepe house of herselfe, with some of her owne servants about her, and other friends sometimes resorting to her, as she desyreth earnestly, or lyve, as her keeper shall provide for her, in a more private and close manner ; 5. whether she shall be permitted to ryde abrode and take the aire, or continue within her lodging ; with such other particulars as your lordship, in your wisdome, shall think fitt to impart unto me. My healthe wiU not yet serve me either to sende for her, or goe to her ; but at the tyme of my visitation, about a fortnight hence, or xviii dayes, I shall take occasion to speak with her, and examine her, if your lordship, before that tyme, shaU so advise me, and if God will give me leave. The whyle, with humble thanks to your good lordship for the allowance of my impost, I betake your lordship to the grace tion ate love of her family and her duties, that had her father lavished on her all the praise of the imaginary Geraldine, he could scarce have made her more inte- of God. — At B. Auckland, 27th Maii, 1698. — Your lordship's most humble in Christ, Tobie Duresme." Margaret Neville, who was only five years old at the time of the rebellion, was tried and convicted at the Durham assizes in 1594, for having been found in company with a seminary priest, John Boast (see vol. i., page 200). A letter from her to Queen Elizabeth has been preserved in the Lansdowne MSS. : — " To the Quenes most excellent Maiestie : most humblie with teares beseacheth your highnes, your maiesties most desolate poore subject, Margaret NevUl, one of the daughters of the infortunate late Erie of Westmerland, to take princelie pittie upon my lamentable estate. With great greefe, I doe confesse (most gratious sovereign) that sithins the death of my deare mother, having no part of that allowance which it pleased your Majesty most gratiouslie to bestow upon me, nor any of her maintenance, I was forcid, by reason of great want, to receive reliefe of papistes, by whose subtUtie, my needie simplicitie was allured from myne obedience and loialtie to their superstition and errors ; and so being drawne into the companie of a seminarie priest, I was condemned. At the assizes the last somer, being destitute of help, it plesed the good bishop of Duresme, at the motion of my Lord President and the judges, to take me into his house, where he onelie hathe, and doeth yet whoUie releeve me ; and by his godlie and sounde earnest instructions, he hathe (I moste humblie praise God) fuUie reformed me in reUigion, which (by God's grace) I shaU, with aU obedience to your highnes, constantlie pro- fesse, while I Uve. And now (alas) seeinge this pitiful bishop, my onelie help, is verie shortlie to leave this countrie, and I know not how or where to be relieved, I commend my cause and woeful estate unto God and your Majestie, most humbUe beseaching your highness, of your princelie and moste gratious wonted com passion, to be mercifull unto me, a moste distressed poore maiden ; and to vouchsafe me your most comfortable pardon for my life, and somwhat also for my releife (which if I stUl want, my liefe wU be no life, but mere misserie) ; so shall the enemies of true rehgion have no cause to reioice at my woe ; the repenting poore converts, by myne example, wil be comforted ; and 1 (as most bounde) shaU never cease with them to praie for your Majesties moste happie reigne, in all wished felicitie, long to endure. — Feb. 14, 1594. — Your Majesties moste woefuU poore prisoner, Mae.gae.ett Nevtll." As this letter was written whilst she was in the house of a Protestant bishop (Hutton), who had laboured hard for her con version, and when she was under sentence of death, she would naturally adopt the sentiments most likely to obtain grace from the queen. Two days afterwards, the bishop wrote to the Lord Treasurer to solicit her pardon ; but she continued a prisoner tUl the foUowing year, when she received a pardon. She married Nicholas Pudsey, a Yorkshire gentleman, and received an annuity of 100 marks from James I., in 1604. Anne Neville married David, younger brother of Sir WUliam Ingleby, of Ripley, Knt. In the enquiry and survey of Brancepeth, in 1614, it is stated that she held a lease from the queen, of the herbage of the East Park, at a yearly rent of £40. She left an only daughter and heiress, Mary, married to Sir Peter Middleton, Knt., of Stokefield, Yorkshire. Eleanor Neville, the other daughter of the Earl of Westmoreland, died unmarried before 1604. The Lady Adeline, the maiden sister of the Earl, appears to have survived all her own generation, and even her nieces. She had an estate in Willington, where she resided in the house recently belong ing to Col. Mills. It is said that Mary Queen of Scots once slept here. 104 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. resting than what has been written of her by Robert Constable, the wily betrayer of the Earl of Westmore land." It was her sad destiny to be bereaved of a father and a brother, who both died on the scaffold, and of a husband who lingered in misery and hopeless exile. It appears that, during the latter years of his life, the Earl of Westmoreland was treated with neglect by the government under which he was pensioned, and only regarded with consideration as a person whose influence might be useful in the event of an invasion of England. In 1601, he is represented, at an advanced age, -as a suitor for the hand of a daughter of Richardot, who insisted, as a condition to his consent, that the earl should procure an addition of 200 crowns per month to his pension. On the 16th of November, in the follow ing year, however, he died at Newport, after an absence of 30 years from his native land. Camden, in noticing his death, says, " From this family, fruitful in nobility, there sprung (besides six Earls of Westmoreland) two Earls of Salisbury and Warwick; an Earl of Kent; a Marquess Montacute; a Duke of Bedford; a Baron Ferrers of Ousely; Barons Latimers ; Barons Aberga venny ; one queen ; five dutchesses, to omit countesses and baronesses ; an Archbishop of York ; and a great number of inferiour gentlemen." On the death of the earl, no claim was made on be half of the Nevilles of Wear dale ; but Edmund Neville of Latimer urged his pretensions to the lands and honours of Westmoreland, reminding James I. of his assurance that " if you were King of England, I was Earle of Westmoreland without exception; the credit of which message was warranted by a letter from my Lord of Darlington, assuring further, that now my fortunes shall rise with yours ; and irrevocably ratified by your sacred Majestie in your postscript, written with your royal hand, which was never yet known to retract what it deliberately set downe, in the words, ' I shall now with grace promise you to your right, and satisfy you to your expectation ;' which letters was also styled to the Earl of Westmoreland." Neville's letter concludes by claiming the title and honours of the earl who fell "for his service and affection to the king's mother." This appeal, however, was not merely unsuc cessful, but Edmund was actually cited for having assumed the title with which the king had accosted * Though the ancestors of this family anciently wrote their name Vane, it appears that, from before 1488 to 1582, they altered it to Fane. They descended from Howel-ap-Vane, who was seated in Monmouthshire after the Norman Conquest ; and their family pedi- him. The judges also decided that the earldom was legally forfeited. Raby, after the attainder of the Earl of Westmore land, continued vested in the crown until 1613, when it was granted, with Barnard Castle, &c, by James I., to his favourite, the Earl of Somerset ; but, after a brief possession, these lordships reverted to their royal master (see page 11). They were subsequently purchased of the lessees of Charles I. by, Sir Henry Vane the elder, Knt. THE VANES.* Sir Henry Vane the Elder. — This distinguished politician was knighted by King James I. in 1631, in which year he was ambassador to the states of Den mark, Sweden, Holland, and Bohemia, comptroller of the king's household, and a privy counsellor; and, in 1639, he was secretary of state, and treasurer of the household. King Charles I., on his progress to Scot land, in May, 1633, was entertained at Raby Castle by Sir Henry Vane; and on April 29, 1639, that monarch again visited Raby, on his march against the Scottish Covenanters, when Sir Henry commanded a regiment of 1,000 men. His dismissal from his offices, and enmity to the Earl of Strafford (who, out of contempt to the Vanes, had been created Baron of Raby), are matters of general history. During the civil wars, he took part with the parliament. A daring coup-de-main, by which Raby Castle was taken in 1645, with the subsequent events, are thus narrated in the newspapers of that time : — In the Kingdom's Weekly Intelligencer, July 8, it is stated that, " Upon the Lord's day, June 29th, by five of the clock in the morning, 120 Horse and Dragoons came out of Bolton Castle, and scaled the walls of Raby Castle, where the draw-bridge was, & surprised Mr. Singleton & Mr. William Allison, servants to Sir Henry Vane, in their beds; whereupon Sir George Vane raised the country forthwith, both horsemen with arms, & the foot also, well armed, in all about 300 men. Upon Monday, the 30th, at twelve of the clock, they came to Staindrop, about a quarter of. a mile from the castle : then came also six troops of horse out of York shire, which Col. Wasdale & Major Smithson com manded — they were all there by seven a clock at night. gree contains the names of several illustrious individuals. Henry Vane was knighted by the Black Prince at the battle of Poictiers, September 19, 1 356. Sir Ralph Fane was created a Knight Banneret at the battle of Musselburgh, September 21, 1547. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 105 After their coming, they rescued many cattell, which the rebels were driving into the Castle: they took fifty-five horses from them, with the loss of one man, some of them worth £20 a piece. Next day they took nineteen horses more of them, so that they have now but sixty left, which will not be kept long. Sir Francis Liddale is commander in cheife of the enemy : the rest are Bishoprick and Yorkshiremen. They have sent Sir George Vane's horses to us, by reason they wanted hay extremely. They are destitute of bread very much, which, it is hoped, will make them yield within few dayes. They are now so blockt up that they dare not stirre out." The Mercurius Civicus, July 17, says, " Sir Francis Liddel offers to go away & leave the Castle as they found it." In the Kingdom's Weekly Intelligencer, July 29, it is said, " Raby Castle is certainly surrendered to the Parliament's forces." And the Scots Dove, of the 1st of August, states that " Raby Castle is yielded up ; the officers to march away with arms, & the common sol diers with their lives upon their legs : they may put their hands in their pockets if they will. They left 300 good armes behind them : powder, and other am munition, good store." The Mercurius Veredicus, of the 4th of August, adds that " Rabby Castle was surren dered to Sir George Vane : Sir Francis Liddel, the Governor, & the souldiers to march to Boulton or Newark." From the following entry in Staindrop parish regis ter, it appears that Raby Castle was again besieged in 1648 : — " William Joplin, a souldier, slaine at the seige of Raby Castle, was buried in the church, 27 Aug. 1648. — Mem. many souldiers slain before Raby Castle, which were buried in the Parke, & not registered." Sir Henry Vane died in 1654-5, aged 69. His wife was Frances, daughter and coheiress of Thomas Darcy, Esq., of Tolshunt-Darcy, Essex, by whom he had issue, 1, Sir Henry, his successor; 2 and 3, Thomas and John, both died in infancy ; 4, Sir George (afterwards of Long-Newton, which see); 5, Sir Walter, of Ship- bourne, a major-general under the Prince of Orange, and killed at the battle of Seneffe in Germany, in August, 1647 ; 6, Charles, of Chopwell, died unmar ried ; 7, and 8, William and Edward, died unmarried ; 9, Margaret, married to Sir Thomas Penham; 10, Frances, married to Sir Robert Honeywood ; 11, Anne, married to Sir Thomas Liddell of Ravensworth ; 12, Elizabeth, married to Sir Francis Vincent; and, 13, Catherine, died unmarried, 1692. Sir Henry Vane the Younger. — This extraor dinary man was born at Shipbourne, and educated at Westminster school, whence he was removed to Magdalen College, Oxford. He' then proceeded to Geneva, where he imbibed opinions antagonistic to the Liturgy and the government of the Established Church, inclining to the opinion of Origen that devils and all should be saved. About this time, several persons, who were uneasy at home on account of their religious opinions, emigrated to New England ; amongst whom was Vane, who, notwithstanding his youth, was elected governor of Massachusetts ; but his enthusiasm soon in duced the colonists to repent their choice, and his govern ment terminated at the next election. He then returned to England, was appointed a joint treasurer of the navy, chosen M.P. for Hull, and, notwithstanding his repub lican predilections, was knighted by Charles I. in 1640. He was, however, instrumental in producing the con demnation of Lord Strafford, and carried up to the lords the articles of impeachment against Archbishop Laud. He took no part in the king's trial and death, but was one of the council of state appointed to supreme power after that event. He continued a strenuous opponent to Cromwell, whose well-known apostrophe, " O Sir Harry Vane, Sir Harry Vane — the Lord deliver me from Sir Harry Vane !" has become a his torical by-word, and who even sought to intimidate him by questioning his title to the Raby estates, and causing him to be imprisoned in Carisbrook Castle. While treasurer to the navy (a place he held till the first wars with the Dutch), Sir Henry Vane's fees amounted to little less than £30,000 per annum ; but considering this too much for a private subject, he, with rare honour, gave up his patent (from Charles I. for life) to the then parliament, desiring but £2,000 yearly for an agent he had bred to the business, and the rest to go to the pub lic. The restoration put an end to his labours for the perpetuation of a republic ; and Charles II. , though he promised that his life should be spared, thought " cer- taynly he is too dangerous a man to lett live, if we can honestly put him out of the way." He was accordingly tried, found guilty in spite of an eloquent defence, and brought to the block June 14, 1662; when his address to the spectators was rudely interrupted by drums and trumpets. The wife of Sir Henry was Frances, daughter of Sir Christopher Wray, of Glentworth, Lincolnshire. Henry, William, and Richard, their elder sons, died without issue. Thomas, fourth son, married Frances, daughter of Sir Thomas Liddell : he was elected M.P. 106 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. for the eounty of Durham, June 21, 1675, but was attacked by the small-pox, and " was in a fever at Raby upon ye day of his election, whereby he died ye fourth day after, June 25th, in the morning," aged 23, and was buried at Staindrop. Christopher, fifth son, suc ceeded his father ; and Cecil, Edward, and Henry died infants. There were six daughters, of whom Dorothy, the eldest, married Thomas Crispe, of Essex, in 1679 ; Frances, married Edward Kegwick, Esq. ; Mary, mar ried Sir James Tillie, of Pentillie Castle, Cornwall, Knt., died without issue in 1682, and was buried at Shipbourne ; Anne and Catherine, died unmarried ; and Albinia, married Henry Forth, Esq., an alderman of London, and had issue Henry Forth, Esq., of Dar lington, who married Anne, daughter of Richard Hilton, Esq., and died June, 1746. First Baron Barnard. — Christopher Vane, Esq., fifth son of Sir Henry, was elected M.P. for the county of Durham, in the room of his brother Thomas, on the 25th of October, 1675, but was an unsuccessful candi date in the elections of 1678-9, 1679, and 1680. He was created Baron Barnard of Barnard Castle, July 8, 1699, with remainder to heirs male. The title of Raby would have been preferred ; but it was still in the male descendants of the unfortunate Strafford's younger brother. The wife of Lord Barnard was Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Gilbert Hollis, Earl of Clare, and sister and coheiress of John, Duke of Newcastle, by whom he had issue four sons and four daughters. Two of the sons, Henry and Christopher, and three of the daughters, Elizabeth, Albinia, and Mary, died in infancy ; the fourth daughter, Grace, survived her father, and died unmarried. " In the year 1714," according to Vernon's Reports, " Lord B. having taken some displeasure against his son [Gilbert], on whom the castle, was settled, got 200 workmen together of a sudden, and in a few days stripped it of its covering of lead, iron, glass, doors, and boards, &c, to the value of £3,000. The son filed his bill, praying an injunction to stay committing waste in pulling down the castle : on a hearing, the court not only continued the injunction, but decreed that the castle should be repaired, and put in the same condition it was, August 1714; for which purpose a commission issued, to ascertain what ought to be done, and a mas- * "The coach and six," adds the facetious writer, "is nothing extraordinary, but perhaps the following equipage may be a little unusual. ' John Borrow departed this life, the 17th day of January, being Satterday, this yeare 1684-5, and was reported that he, see a ter appointed to see it done, at the expense of Lord B." This strange proceeding, on the part of his lordship, is said to have been instigated by his wife, who was so strongly exasperated against her son, that she attempted to set fire to the castle. " This old jade," says Surtees, in a letter to C. K. Sharpe, Esq., " after her death, used to drive about in the air, in a black coach and six ; sometimes she takes ground and drives slowly up the lawn to Alice's Well, and still more frequently walks the battlements of Raby, with a pair of brass knitting needles, and is called Old Hell Cat.'* Lord Barnard died on the 28th of October, 1723, aged 70, and was buried at Shipbourne. The Hon. William Vane, of Fairlawn, Kent, second surviving son of Lord Barnard, was elected M.P. for the county of Durham in 1708, but was an unsuccessful candidate in 1722. He was created Viscount Duncan- non of Ireland, June 12, 1720, and Viscount Vane and Baron Duncannon on October 13, in the same year. His wife was Lucy, daughter and coheiress of William Jolliffe, Esq., of Caverswell, Staffordshire, who died March 7, 1742. Lord Duncannon died suddenly of apoplexy, at his seat of Fairlawn, May 20, 1734, aged 53, having three days before been elected M.P. for Kent. His first-born son, Christopher, died in 1721, aged 17. John, second son, died at Naples, February 5, 1723, aged 17. William, third son, born 1714, succeeded as Viscount Vane in 1734: he married Frances, daughter of Francis Hawes, Esq., and widow of Lord William Hamilton; and died April 5, 1780, without issue, when the title became extinct. An act passed for the sale of his estates to pay his debts ; and the tithes of Darlington, which had been settled upon the lords of Fairlawn, reverted thereupon to the main line by purchase. Second Baron Barnard. — The Hon. Gilbert Vane, eldest son of the first Lord Barnard, succeeded to the title on the death of his father. He married Mary, daughter of Morgan Randyll, Esq., of Chilworth, Sur rey, who died at Newark, August 4, 1728, aged 47. His lordship died April 27, 1753, aged 75. Their children were, 1, Henry. 2, Morgan, made comptroller of the stamp office in 1732 ; married, first, Margaretta, daughter of Mr. Robert Knight, formerly cashier to the South Sea Company, by whom he had a son, Morgan coach drawne by six swine, all black, and a black man satt upon the cotch-box. He fell sick upont and dy'd, and of his death severaU apparitions appeared after.' Verbation from the diary of Jacob Bee." PARISH OF STAINDROP. 107 Vane. She died at the Bath in May, 1739. He mar ried, secondly, Anna Maria, daughter of — Fowler, Esq.; and, thirdly, Mary, sister of John Woodyear, Esq., by whom he had a daughter, Mary Vane. 3. Thomas, died February 19, 1758. 4. Gilbert, a lieu tenant-colonel in the army, died unmarried in 1772. 6. Charles, of Mount Ida, Norfolk, had an only daugh ter, Henrietta, who married Sir William Langham, Bart. 7. Anne, maid of honour to Queen Caroline ; she died at the Bath, unmarried, March 11, 1735-6. 8. Elizabeth, married to Sir William Humble, Bart. ; she died February 22, 1770. 9. Jane, married to Tho mas Staunton, Esq., of Stockgrove, Bucks. Earl of Darlington. — The Hon. Henry Vane was born in 1705. He was vice-treasurer of Ireland, re ceiver and paymaster-general of the army in 1742, and was elected M.P. for the county of Durham, July 1, 1747. Being made a privy counsellor, joint paymaster of the forces, joint treasurer of war, and lord of the treasury, in 1749, he was re-elected M.P. on the 3rd of May. He succeeded his father as Baron Barnard in 1753, and was made Lord Lieutenant and Vice- admiral of the county of Durham. On the formation of the Duke of Newcastle's ministry, he was, on April 3, 1754, created Viscount Barnard and Earl of Dar lington. In consequence of the violent state of party feeling at that period, his character has been variously represented ; Horace Walpole lashing him in his most bitter style, whilst the premier duke panegyrised him in the House of Lords as " Harry Vane, who never said a false thing, or did a bad one." He married Grace Fitzroy, daughter of Charles, first Duke of Cleveland (son of King Charles II. by Barbara Villiers, who was created Duchess of Cleveland), and sister and heiress of the second duke.* By this lady the earl had three sons and three daughters. He died March 6, 1758, and his widow in 1763, aged 66. The Hon. Frederick Vane, of Selaby, their second son, was born June 26, 1732. He was treasurer of Chelsea Hospital, and elected M.P. for the county of * This nobleman often resided at Raby, and, in the hunting or sporting season, had also an occasional dormitory and refectory (both one room) in the house of one of the Raby tenants at Piercebridge, which is stUl pointed out. " He seems," says Mr. Longstaffe, "judging from the popular traditions floating in South Durham, to have been a quiet unoffending man, of the most unassuming sim plicity. He doated upon the chase ; and once, when out on his favourite bent, his horse happened an accident, and he was compelled to mount a haystack to obtain as wide a scope of view as possible. The farmer's wU'e, tenanting the adjacent farm, bustled out, and fiercely called him down. The peer's gentle explanation, ' My good VOL. II. Durham in 1761 and 1768, but declined a contest in 1774. He married, first, Henrietta, sister of Sir Wil liam Meredith, Bart. : she was buried at Gainford, March 10, 1796, " above 70." On September 7, 1797, he married, at Gainford, Jane, eldest daughter of Arthur Lysaght, Esq., of Bath. The Hon. Raby Vane, third son of the Earl of Darlington, was born in 1736, and succeeded his eldest brother in the representation of the county of Durham, March 22, 1758. He afterwards represented Carlisle, and was a captain in the navy. He married Eliza beth, daughter of George Sayer, D.D., archdeacon of Durham ; died October 23, 1769, and was buried at Staindrop. Anna, eldest daughter of the earl, was married, first, to the Hon. Charles Hope Weir, brother of James, third Earl of Hopetown ; and, secondly, to Brigadier- general the Hon. George Monson. Mary, second daughter, was married to Ralph Carr, Esq., of Cocken, and died in 1781, without issue. Jane, youngest daughter, died unmarried, January 20, 1759. Second Earl of Darlington. — The Hon. Henry Vane, born in 1726, was elected M.P. for the county of Durham, on the elevation of his father to the peerage, on May 5, 1753, and was again returned in the follow ing year. On his father being created Earl of Dar lington in 1754, he assumed the title of Viscount Barnard ; and he succeeded to that of Earl of Darling ton, &c, in 1758. He was Lord Lieutenant and Vice-admiral of the county, an alderman of Durham city, colonel of the Durham militia, governor of Car lisle, and master of the Jewel Office. His greatest enjoyment, however, was the superintendence of Raby farm, which included lands of the annual value of £1,200, on which all the improvements in agriculture were prac tised ; though there was one ancient usage retained, the tillage lands being ploughed by between 20 and 30 teams of four oxen each. In the farm-yard were close stands for upwards of 40 oxen, besides an open spacious fold with a cistern of water perpetually running : there woman, I am the duke,' only added fresh fuel to the termagant's fire. ' Why, I dinna care whether ye be duke or drake, ye shall come down.' Another story has been bandied about in newspaper litera ture in fifty changes ; but it is very generally localized in Darlington Ward. It seems that the hot blood ol Finch did not satisfactorily naturalize itself with the amiable duke, who used to hold his high- spirited wife's hanks of linen thread while she wound them, but often entangled them with his awkward handling. On one of these occasions, she angrily exclaimed, ' You fool you !' a taunt which even he could not tamely submit to, for he replied sharply, ' Yes, I was a fool when I married you.'" 108 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. were also covered racks and pens for 800 sheep, with various other conveniences. On the 10th of March, 1757, the earl married Mar garet, eldest daughter of Robert Lowther, Esq., of Meaburn, Westmoreland, and sister of James, the first Earl of Lonsdale, by whom he had two daughters, who died in infancy, and one son. The earl died on the 8th of September, 1792, and was buried at Staindrop. His widow survived him till the 11th of September, 1800, when she expired at Langton Grange, and was interred at Staindrop. Duke and Marquis of Cleveland. — William Harry Vane, third Earl of Darlington, Viscount and Baron Barnard, was born July 27, 1766. He was Lord Lieutenant, Custos Rotulorum, and Vice-admiral of Durham, colonel of the Durham militia, and some time M.P. for Winchelsea. On September 17, 1827, he was created Marquis of Cleveland ; in January, 1833, he was advanced to the titles of Duke of Cleve land and Baron Raby; and in 1839, he was elected K.G. On September 19, 1797 (being then Earl of Darlington), he married Lady Katherine-Margaret Powlett, second daughter and coheiress of Harry, sixth and last Duke of Bolton, and coheiress of a moiety of the barony of St. John of Basing, by whom he had issue — 1. Henry, his successor. 2. Louisa-Catherine- Barbara, born January 11, 1791; married July 29, 1813, to Francis Forester, Esq., brother to the late Lord Forester; and died January 8, 1821. 3. The Hon. William-John-Frederick, born April 3, 1792; took the name of Powlett, by royal license, dated April 20, 1813, in compliance with the last will and testament of his maternal grandmother, Katherine, Duchess of Bolton ; and married, July 3, 1815, Caroline, fifth daughter of William, fourth Earl of Lonsdale, K.G., born February 17, 1792. He succeeded his brother in the representation of the county in 1815, and was also elected in 1818, 1820, 1826, and 1830. He became Lord William on the elevation of his father to a mar- quisate. 4. Caroline -Mary, born February 8, and died May 11, 1795. 5. Augusta-Henrietta, born * On his coming of age in 1809, a plentiful dinner was provided at Raby Castle for the tenantry. The park guns were fired at one o'clock, and a ball was given to the tenants' wives and daughters in the evening. An ox was roasted whole at Darlington, and distributed with plenty of bread and ale to the populace ; another was roasted and distributed in like manner at Piercebridge (where the skull and gilded horns are still preserved in a butcher's shop), a third at Stain drop, a fourth at Cockfield, a fifth at Barnard Castle, and a sixth at Middleton-in-Teesdale, at aU of which places there were great re- December 26, 1796 ; married, June 2, 1817, to Mark Milbanke, Esq., of Thorpe Perrow, near Bedale, Yorkshire. 6. Laura, married, February 24, 1828, to Lieutenant-colonel William-Henry Meyrick, of the 3rd Foot Guards. 7. Mary-Arabella, born June 2, 1801; and married, April 23, 1831, to the Hon. Richard Pepper Arden, of Pepper Hall, Yorkshire, now Lord Alvanley. 8. Harry-George, born April 19, 1803 ; and elected M.P. for the Southern Division of the county in 1841, twice in 1847, and in 1852. The Countess of Darlington died June 17, 1807; and the earl married, July 27, 1813, Elizabeth, daugh ter of Robert Russell, Esq., who survives him. The duke died January 29, 1842, aged 75, at his residence in St. James's Square, and was buried in Staindrop church. Second Duke and Marquis of Cleveland. — Henry Vane, Duke and Maxquis of Cleveland, K.G., Earl of Darlington, Viscount and Baron Barnard of Barnard Castle, and Baron Raby of Raby Castle, was born August 16, 1788.* He married, November 16, 1809, Sophia, eldest daughter of John, fourth Earl of Powlett ; was elected M.P. for the county of Durham, October 14, 1812, and continued its representative until July, 1815, when he accepted a commission in the army, which vacated his seat. In 1824, he obtained the rank of lieutenant-colonel of the 75th regiment, and is now colonel of the Durham militia.t He be came Earl of Darlington on the elevation of his father to the rank of a marquis; and after he retired from the representation of the county of Durham, he sat in parliament for Tregony, Totness, and Saltash. His grace is now the representative of the titles and honours acquired by the elder branch of the Vane family. Insignia. — Arms. Quarterly. I. and IV., az. 3 sinister gauntlets or, for Vane. n. and HI., Quarterly, 1 and 4 quarterly France and England ; 2 Scotland, 3 Ireland (being the arms of Charles H.) ; over aU a baton sinister, compony ar. and az. for Fitzroy. Crests.— 1. On a wreath, a dexter hand, couped above the wrist, erect in a gauntlet proper, bossed and rimmed or, brandishing a sword, also proper, for Vane. H. On » chapeau gu. turned-up ermine, a Uon passant, guardant, or, crowned with a ducal coronet az. and gorged with a coUar counter-compony ar. and az., for Fitzeot. joicings. The ox-roasting process on such occasions, it is gratifying to observe, is now considered "a custom more honoured in the breach than the observance." t A correspondence of some interest, on the subject of mUitary discipline, took place in September, 1854, between his grace and Colonel Garrett, arising out of proceedings in a court martial, held on Lieut. Perry, of the 46th regiment of foot, and which appeared in the pubUc journals of the day. PARISH OF STAINDROP. 109 Supporters. — Dexter, a griffin ar. j sinister, an antelope or, each gorged with a plain coUar az. (formerly the griffin was worn charged with 3 ganntlets as in the arms, and the antelope with 3 martlets). These are the supporters of Vane ; but those of Fitzboy have oc- casionaUy been adopted, viz., dexter, a Uon guardant or, crowned and gorged as in the crest j sinister, a greyhound ar., collared as in the dexter. Motto. — Nee temere, nee timide. RABY CASTLE. This " noble pile of stately towers" is situated about a mile north from the town of Staindrop, and is supposed to occupy the site of the mansion given by Canute to the church of Durham. The earliest record relative to its erection occurs in 1379, when John de Neville obtained a license to "make a castle of his manor of Raby, and to embattle and crenelate its towers." The architecture of nearly the whole castle agrees with this* date ; and as most of the modern repairs and additions have been made in unison with it, this edifice is now the most perfect specimen of a feudal baron's palace to be seen in the north of England. Immediately after the Northern Rebellion, a survey was made, June 14, 1570, and Raby is therein described as " the most anncyent house of th Erie of Westmer land ; and scytuat in the south part of the busshopryk, tenne myles from Darneton, and fyve miles from Bar nard Castle. And the Castell of Raby is a marevelouse huge house of buyldyng, wherin are three wards, and buylded all of stone, and covered with leade; and yet ys there no order or proporcyon in the buylding therof, and standyth in a playne countrie. The ground and soyle aboute yt very good and bountefull for corn and grasse, but very barren of wood and tymber. Neyther the scytuacon of the place, or the Castell ytselfe, of any strengthe, but lyke a monstrouse old abbey, and will soone decay yf it be not continually .repayred, yt standeth so open and playne, and subject to all wynd and wether. And, albeyt, the same is tenne myles further south than Branspeth, yet ys yt more subject to all extremyte of wether than Branspeth, bycause yt standyth naked and bare, without covert, and more open upon the great waste called Feuds Fell and Weredale, which begyne within two myles of Raby, * George Colman, the younger, the weU-known dramatist, in re lating the particulars of a journey in the north in 1775, in company with his father, says, " The late Earl of Darlington (then Lord of the Castle) was an old acquaintance of my father ; and when first we came beneath his roof, it presented to us a warmer picture of ancient hospitaUty than I had ever witness'd, or may, perhaps, ever see again. " We were benighted on our road thither ; — our day's journey had and so continue to Hexam, a great wast countrey and nothing so well inhabyted as th est parte of the busshop ryk, and few gentlemen of any lands or lyving inhabyting there ; for the most parte of all the possessions in those partes are eyther belonging to the busshoprick or to the erle. And the gentlemen that were [of] any posses sions were planted in the este parts of the countrey ; and that dyd wel appere at this horryble and mon- struous entrepryse, for ther were not many gentlemen of many possessions inhabyting betwen the houses of Raby and Branspeth on the west parte of the countrey and th estsea^ but were infected with this rebellion, and toke part with th erle, to the utter subversion of them- 6elfs and their postefyte, as shall right well appere, by reason whereof the countrey is left voyde and barren of governors and gydes, and very much empoveryshed, not without ther greate desefte." Raby Castle stands upon the summit of a gentle slope, and has certainly owed little of its military strength to its position. The resources of art, however, have corhpensated for natural disadvantages; and the lofty embattled wall which still surrounds the vast assemblage of towers, and the moat around this exterior defence, must have rendered the fortress almost impreg nable before the invention of cannon. The water has long been drained from the moat on the north, west, and south sides of the castle, and its banks have been formed into grassy slopes ; but on the east, the bed of the water has been considerably extended, and it now presents the appearance of a small lake. The outer wall, above mentioned, encloses an area of about two acres, into which there is only one entrance, by a gate way tower on the north, defended by a portcullis and flanking parapets. A spacious raised terrace within the battlements, passes entirely round the main build ings, the principal entrance to which is by a massive gateway on the west, with a double gate and covered way, strengthened by two square towers. From one of these, a hanging gallery forms a communication with Clifford's Tower; and a second gallery extends east ward to a smaller turreted tower. Crossing the court yard, the carriage, drive is extended, by a modern alteration, into the hall.* been aU along unpropitious ; it rained heavily and incessantly ; and we had met with delays, and petty accidents, and vexations, at every turn. In the last seven miles, after sun-set, a fog arose ; — one of the horses cast a shoe, and his rider dismounted to grope for it in the mud and in the dark ; — my father let down the glass, to ask what was the matter, in phrase too classical for a north-country post-boy to under stand ; and the post-boy answered in a dialect quite incomprehensible to the translator of Terence. I could not act as interpreter between 110 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. One of the most prominent features in the east front of the castle is Bulmer's Tower, so called from Ber tram Bulmer, lord of Bulmer and Brancepeth, whose estates passed to the Nevilles by marriage with his daughter, about the year 1190. This tower is totally unlike any known example, being lozenge-shaped in stead of rectangular ; and, from this singularity, some antiquaries have imagined it to be of Danish origin, and that it was part of a castle existing previous to the erection of the present one. A further inference is, that this is a part of the original building mentioned in the grant of Canute. In the upper story there are two square-headed panels, which have, at a distance, the appearance of windows, but each of which contains an enormous h. The whole of this front of the castle, which is of great extent, presents a most imposing and warlike appearance. The south front is also very effective ; but the central part was restored by Inigo Jones in the Italian style, totally out of keeping with the rest of this venerable fortress. The different towers of the castle are designated by the names of those commanders to whom it is supposed their defence was assigned during the periods of Scottish incursion or civil war. Of the exterior of the castle, " Its grey extent of towers," says Mr. Howitt, " rises before us, with its park, well peopled with herds of deer, stretching around it. Comparatively flat again as is the situation, and which would seem to have been better liked by the Nevilles than more hilly and romantic ones, there is nothing that we recollect to have seen any where which impresses us at the first view with a stronger feeling of the old feudal grandeur. It stands in its antiquity and vast- them ; for I knew nothing of the north- country language. AU this time, the rain was pelting in upon us, at the chaise window ; we were chUly — hungry — impatient — comfortless — sitting dinnerless in a post-chaise — and waiting the issue of a hunt after a horse-shoe. " As we passed through the outer gateway of the Castle, the vapour was dense upon the moat, and we were enveloped in night- fog, while the rolling of the carriage wheels, and the trampling of the horses' hoofs, sounded dolefully over the draw-bridge; — we might have fancied ourselves victims to the darkest times of GaUic despot ism, condemn'd by a lettre de cachet to linger out our Uves in the deepest dungeons of the BastiUe ; but, lo ! on the opening of a massive door, a gleam of light fiash'd upon us ; — crack went the -whips — we dashed forward at full trot — and, in >.- moment drew up, — not to a piazza, nor a vestibule, nor a flight of steps in a cold court yard — but before a huge blazing fire, in a spacious hall. The magical effect of this sudden transition, from destitution to luxury, has never occurr'd to me any where else — except in the two last scenes of every pantomime, when the Guardian Genius, with a wand, waves and recitatives Harlequin and Columbine out of a Coal-pit, into the temple of the Goddess of Gas ; — ' Hence grief and darkness, enter light and joy !' " ness, the fitting abode of the mighty Nevilles. We can almost imagine that we shall find them still inhabit ing it. The royal Joan, walking with her maidens on the green terrace that surrounds it, or the first great Earl of Westmoreland setting out with all his train, to scour its wild chases and dales for the deer, or to pro ceed to the Marches to chastise the boldness of the Scots. The exterior of the whole place has been well preserved in its true ancient character ; it is the great, grey, and stately feudal castle, 1 With all its lands and towers.' " It is, in fact, these old towers, these old courts, this great baronial hall, and the kitchen, that are the objects of real interest in Raby ; remnants of its antiquity, the cotemporaries of those who stamped them with the feeling of belonging to them and their fortunes. The Clifford's Tower, and the Tower of Bertram Bulmer, let us ascend to them, and gaze over the parks and glades of Raby, to the far distant scenes that once formed the princely possessions of the Nevilles. Near the top of this tower, which stands separated from the rest of the building, and to which you ascend by eighty-nine steps, are raised those old letters, the initials of Bertram Bulmer, mentioned by Leland,* and a splendid prospect south-eastward lies before you. Coniscliffe, Darlington, Sadberge, Long-Newton, Stock ton, with the Cleveland Hills and 'Black' Hamilton. From other points of the castle you catch equally noble and far views — the distant mountains of Hope and Arkendale, and westward the vale filled with the woods of Streatlam and Lady Close." In the centre of the great entrance hall, above * According to Leland, " Raby is the largest castel of loggingees in all the north countery, and is of a strong buUding, but not set other on hiU, or very strong ground. As I entered by a causey into it ther was a Utle stagne on the right hond ; and in the first area, were but two towres on a ech ende as entres, and no other buildid ; yn the 2 area, as in entring was a great gate of iren with a tour, and 2 or 3 mo on the right hond. Then were al the chief toures of the 3 court, as in the hart of the castel. The haul and al the houses of offices be large and stately ; and in the haul I saw an incredible great beame of an hart. The great chambre was exceeding large, but now it is fals rofid and dividid into 2 or 3 partes. I saw ther a Utle chambre wherein was in windowes of colerid glasse al the petigre of the NevUles : but it is now taken down and glased with clere glasse. Ther is a tower in the castel, having the mark of 2 capitale B's from Bertram Bulmer. Ther is another tower, bering the name of Jane, bastard sister to Henry IV. and wife to Rafe Neville the first Erl of Westmerland. Ther long 3 parkes to Raby, whereof 2 be plenished with dere, The midle park hath a lodge in it; and thereby is a chace, bering the name of Langeley, and hath fallow dere : it is a 3 miles in lenght." PARISH OF STAINDROP. Ill noticed, there is a row of six octagonal pillars, support ing a roof of lofty groined arches. Above the hall is another stately room, called the Baron's Hall, 120 feet long by 36 broad,, and the same in height, terminating in a circular tower. Two of the windows front the east, beneath a modern archway, which extends from the Central Tower to Buhner's Tower. The west end of the hall is crossed by a gallery for the musicians, whose duty it was to enliven the feasts of its feudal lords and their numerous guests. " Here assembled, in the time of the Nevilles, 700 knights who held of that family." " NevUle sees His followers gathering in from Tees, From Were, and aU the little rills Concealed among the forked bills — Seven hundred knights, retainers all Of NevUle, at their Master's call Had sate together in Raby's haU." — Wordsworth. The kitchen, from whence those feasts were supplied, is a magnificent and lofty square of 30 feet each way. Its roof is groined, supported by four semicircular ribs, which spring from the sides of the square, and leave a square ventilating shaft in the centre. There are five windows in the side walls, with a gallery passing all round before them, and four steps downwards from each, but ending at a great height above the floor. The old fire-place and larders render this the most per fect ancient kitchen in existence. " The oven," says Grose, " was of dimensions suited to the hospitality of those times, higher than a tall person, for the tallest may stand upright in it ; and I think its diameter must be fifteen feet. At present it is converted into a wine cellar ; the sides are divided into ten parts, and each holds a hogshead of wine in bottles." The rooms in the castle are numerous, handsome, and conveniently disposed ; several of the passages and galleries having been scooped out of the solid walls. One of the drawing-rooms is 30 feet by 20, and the adjoining dining-room is 51 feet by 25. A circular room in the south front, built in anticipation of a visit from George Prince Regent, is characterized by Billings as " a wretched attempt at modern Gothic." " It is, in fact," says Mr. Howitt, " this complete adaptation to modern uses and splendour, which disappoints one in the interior of Raby. The exterior is so fine, so feudal, so antiquely great, that when we step in and find our selves at once in modern drawing-rooms, with silken couches and gilt cornices, the Nevilles and their times vanish. We forget again that we are at Raby, the castle of the victims (victors) of Neville's Cross, and of Joan, the daughter of John of Gaunt, and feel that we are only in the saloons of the modern Duke of Cleve land. We revert to the quaint description of Leland, and wish that we could see it as he did." In several of the apartments of the castle there are excellent paintings, including interesting portraits of personages connected with the present family. There is a large music piece in the dining room in Clifford's Tower, containing the group of figures which Rubens placed in the centre of the Marriage Feast of Cana, in which he introduced his own portrait as a chief musi cian, with his contemporaries as performers. About the year 1850, the Baron's Hall was new roofed and lengthened, and the old towers fitted up into handsome bed-rooms, from designs by Mr. Bourn, architect. The old chapel of the castle has also been recently fitted up for worship : the windows contain two or three scriptural representations, executed by Mr. Wailes of Newcastle, and are filled up with stained glass collected from various sources. The ancient font and piscina, however, have been thrown aside. About the same time, an elegant Mausoleum, in the ecclesias tical style of architecture, was erected, as a place of sepulture for the Raby family, on part of the site of the ancient College, on the north side of Staindrop church yard* It was consecrated by the Bishop of Durham in September, 1851 ; and the remains of the deceased members of the family were removed into it from the vault in the church. A beautiful and extensive conservatory was erected in the gardens in 1850, under the direction of Sir. Roberts, gardener to the Duke of Cleveland. It is covered with patent rough plate glass, from the manu factory of Messrs. Hartley and Co., of Sunderland. " The park," says the lively writer above quoted, " has many fine woods, glades, and lawns, and prospects of far beauty ; but its aspect partakes of the character of the in terior of the castle — newness. We are surprised to see so little timber bearing a relative antiquity to the castle. The treet are comparatively young. You see groups and plantations of a very modern date. The whole has the air rather of a place new made, than of one as old as the days of Canute, who is said to have built some part of the original house. You do not see those old, grey, and gnarled oais around that you see in the » The widow of the Hon. Raby Vane, who died May 28, 1789, aged 47, desired burial in the north-west portion of the cemetery, where an altar-tomb perpetuates her memory. By this choice she dissipated the popular prejudice against being buried on the noith side of the church. 112 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. forests of Sherwood, Needwood — Chartley and other parks. It seems as if some great revolution, as is the fact, had passed over it ; and that in its days of change, the axe of the spoiler had laid low its ancient forests. The castle looks like a grey patriarch left amid a more juvenile race. Let us rejoice that the strong walls of the stout old Nevilles have defied the ravages of politics as well as of time, and that future generations may see in them a fine example of what the habitation of the great old English noble was." * A commissioner from the Times newspaper, Mr. Caird, in one of his letters on the agriculture of the county of Durham, in 1850, says, "The tenants of the Duke of Cleveland have no leases, but the holdings axe hereditary, the same famUies in direct descent occupying the same farms for centuries. His Grace's estates were valued fifty years ago, and the rent has never since undergone any change. One of the best farmers on the estate has in his possession a lease of the land he now occupies, granted to one of his ancestors in the reign of Queen Elizabeth." Some of Mr. Caird's statements, however, relative to the state of the farms and the system of farming pursued on the estates of his grace, were considered by the tenantry to be unjust and calumnious, and elicited the foUowing rejoinder from the Staindrop Farmers' Club, January 27, 1851 :— 1st. "That the commissioner only saw two farms (the one the farthest east — the other only three miles west of the former) on an immense estate, extending from Cumberland to within six mUes of Dar lington. 2nd. " The rents, instead of being ' fifty per cent, lower than the neighbouring estates,' are quite as high, and have been increased by interest on buUdings, cross-draining, &c, done by the landlord. 3rd. " Whether the valuation made fifty years since was a low one or not we cannot say, but many of the tenantry have been changed— some farms, on reletting, being raised — others lowered in rental ; and many of the farms are known to be dear. 4th. " The tenantry, as a class, may not be 'wealthy ;' but there is not, and never has been, one farthing of arrears on the entire pro perty ; and, as to their being ' neither industrious nor enterprising,' the fabrication is far too gross to be credited in this district ; for, though the ' Times' Commissioner' might not see the 'high farming' of Baldoon, yet, had he taken any pains in looking over this neigh bourhood, and been wishful to give a correct report, instead of one for a party purpose, he would have seen or been told of (and ex parte hearsay seems to be his favourite and general plan of gaining know ledge) the many and great improvements which have been made and are still going forward — with the assistance of a good landlord, aided by a respected agent, and the energy of an industrious tenantry, whereby the labourers of a thickly-populated district have fuU employment, at wages too from 10s. to 12s. per week, and whose comfort and happiness are cared for more than in perhaps any other part of England." Mr. Caird justified his statements as to the rents by asserting that his information was derived from competent authority. " He spent the greater part of two days in examining the Duke of Cleveland's estate in Durham, and traversed many miles of it. He visited the farms of three gentlemen mentioned to him as among the best managed on the estate. Two of these farms he walked over and minutely examined, accompanied by the tenants ; the third he drove through, and had an opportunity of seeing the general style of management, but declined (in the absence of the tenant) to survey The avenue leading to the castle from the Durham road is near Keverstone Hall ; and there are also ap proaches from the Darlington road and from Staindrop bridge, besides a road for the use of domestics. The surrounding country is richly cultivated, and in every direction presents delightful specimens of the rural scenery of England.* Raby was formerly a considerable village ; and 27 of its inhabitants followed their lord in his ill-fated rising minutely without his permission. All these farms were several miles distant from one another, and were pointed out to him by the most competent authority as very favourable specimens of the general farming on the estate. Besides this minute examination of individual farms, our commissioner observed the state of the neighbouring farms, and of all those which he necessarily traversed in passing from point to point." On October 5, 1850, the Times commented at some length on a speech deUvered by the Duke of Cleveland at an agricultural meeting in the county of Durham, in which his grace concluded " by referring to the great increase of wealth and luxury during the last few years, and the hardships which fanners would be subject to were they com pelled to forego those comforts which their forefathers did not enjoy, but which with them had become almost necessaries of life, whUe other classes of the community continued to enjoy them.'' On this, it is remarked that in aU professions, but more especiaUy in that of the smaU farmer, such fluctuations must necessarily occur, and that the state of things described, is not pecuUar to the existing crisis. In reference to the county of Durham, the writer says — " Of aU places in the world, ' a coal field' has the least right to cry out for protection. The county of Durham is very Uttle more than one huge colUery, the prosperity of which rises and faUs every day with that of the commerce and manufactures of the world. Every fresh steamer on the German Ocean, the Thames, the Mediterranean, or even the Red Sea ; every street added to this metropolis, or any other town in the eastern and southern counties ; every factory buUt either here or on the neighbouring shores, every new raUway in a great part of this island, is a fresh customer to Durham, to South Shield's, to Sunder land, to Bishopwearmouth, to Monkwearmouth, to Gateshead, to Darlington, and half a dozen other populous centres and ports of the coal trade. The cities, the vUlages, the nobUity, the clergy, the tradesmen, the labourers, and, we must add, the farmers in the county of Durham, aU derive their wealth or their competence from coal. But for that coal, one-half of them would never have been there, and the indigenous inhabitants would by this time have been almost reduced to eat one another. They know their own interests, and it is as much their choice as it is their destiny that their fortunes are linked with those of the world at large. It was at their continual importunity that the export duty on coal was removed, and British coal made cheaper at Boulogne than in London. It is aU the same to them whether they feed the furnace for a British, a French, or a Bel gian miU. It is the crop below ground, not above, that they depend upon; and, if there is plenty of work below, there wiU be plenty of cheer above. As for the pretence that Durham is, even in an ordinary sense, an agricultural county, it is enough to mention that at the last census, ' the farmers and graziers,' male and female, old and young, only amounted to 3,538, being about one in a hundred of the whole population ; whUe the men and boys returned as agricultural labourers only amounted to 8,844 ; that is, about one in forty of the whole population." PARISH OF STAINDROP. 113 in 1569, 5 of whom suffered for their offence by the hands of the public executioner. The village was pulled down during the last century, for the purpose of improving the park and the road near the castle. The Friends' meeting house has already been alluded to (see pp. 79, 91). Its registration books of births, burials, and marriages contain entries from 1669 to 1804. A dog-kennel occupies the site of the chapel ; and above the grave-yard there is a row of stately trees. New Raby, erected between 1780 and 1790, consists of a few houses to the east of the castle, chiefly occu pied by persons employed on the estate. A gaso meter has recently been erected near it, from which the castle is supplied with gas. Keverstone was held by the Setons under the priors of Durham, till it was forfeited by Christopher Seton, during the episcopacy of Bishop Beck. Edward I. granted it to Geoffrey de Hethpole, from whom it passed to the Nevilles and Burtons, and was purchased by an ancestor of the Duke of Cleveland. Keverstone HaU, the residence of Thomas Freshfield Scarth, Esq., land-agent to his grace, is situated near the north-eastern angle of Raby Park. LANGLEY DALE AND SHOTTON. This township extends from 2 to 4 miles north-west of Staindrop, along the north side of the Staindrop Beck, westward from Raby park, in which that part called Shotton is situated. The whole contains 4,685 acres ; and the property was valued for the county-rate, in 1853, at £1,972 15s. 6d. The population has varied, at the periods of enumeration, as follows : — 143, 160, 198, 217, 185, and 163. Of the latter number, 78 were males and 85 females. There were, at the same time, 29 inhabited houses and 1 uninhabited, but no regular village. The township comprises fifteen farms. In the year ended March, 1854, the township of Langley Dale contributed to the Teesdale Union, for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £16 4s. 6d. ; for out- relief and lunatics, £14 18s.; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £26 10s. lid.; for constable and costs before magistrates, 15s.; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 10s. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, inci dental expenses, &c, £1 19s. ; total of expenditure, £60 17s. 5d. The repayments of relief by relations and other receipts amounted to 10s. ; and the net ex penditure exceeded that of the preceding year by £5 17s. lid. The cost of registration was 13s. lOd. ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £33 8s. lOd. The Gaunless Smelt-works are situated in Langley Dale, and contain three smelting furnaces, two refining furnaces, two slag hearths, with blast, a reducing fur nace, one bone and two assay furnaces, a smith's shop, sleeping rooms for the smelters, a cottage for the super intendent, a stable, and other appurtenances. There are also two fire-brick kilns, and a brick-shed and dry ing floor, contiguous to the smelt-mill. A small Methodist chapel was erected about 40 years ago, on a piece of land which, previous to the inclosure of the extensive commons in the district, was considered as a part of Marwood township. Langley Dale and Shotton were anciently parcels of the estates of the Earls of Westmoreland. An old tower, close by the Langley Burn, is said to have been the residence of a mistress of the last earl ; " a noble man," says Surtees, "who, from more than one authority, appears to have been of a very amorous disposition." From "the Forest of Langleye," 19 followers attended him in 1569, of whom 6 expiated their offence with their lives. The Duke of Cleveland is the present proprietor. Slaughter Closes and Scotch Stone are supposed, from the quantities of human re mains and rusted armour* dug up, to have been the scenes of sanguinary contests at some remote period ; but neither history nor tradition alludes to any such circumstance. 114 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. CHAPELEY DISTEICT OF INGLETON. T.HE chapelry district of Ingleton, formed by an order in c;ouncil January 13, 1845, and licensed by the Bishop of Durham under the act of 6 and 7 William IV., c. 85, consisted of the townships of Hilton, Ingleton, and Wackerfield ; being bounded on the south and east by the parish of Gainford, on the north by the parochial chapelry of St. Helen Auckland, on the north-west by the parish of Cockfield, and on the west and south-west by the townships of Raby-cum-Keverstone and Staindrop-cum-Snotterton in the parish of Staindrop. By an order in council, bearing date January 8, 1850, the township of Killerby, in the parish of Heighington, was separated from the said parish, and united to the chapelry district of Ingleton. INGLETON. This township comprises an area of 813 acres ; and the annual value of property assessed for the county-rate in 1853 was £1,261 lis. 3d. In 1801, the population was 236; in 1811, 285; in 1821, 293; in 1831, 355; in 1841, 344; and in 1851, 305, of whom 156 were males and 149 females. There were, at that time, 80 inhabited houses, 8 uninhabited, and 1 building ; and the township contains six farms. The contributions of the township of Ingleton to the Teesdale Union, for the year ended March, 1854, were, for out-relief and lunatics, £23 15s. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £25 18s. Id.; for constable and costs before magistrates, 18s. 6d. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, inci dental expenses, &c, £1 8s. 3d.; being a total expendi ture of £51 19s. lOd. The repayments of relief by relations and other receipts were £6 Is. 4d. ; and the balance, £45 18s. 6d., was 18s. Id. less than the net expenditure of the preceding year. The cost of regis tration was £1 Is. 4d. ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £21 17s. 5d. The village of Ingleton is situated on the high road between Staindrop and Darlington, 3 miles from the former place. It contains four public-houses and several shopkeepers and mechanics. The village school was rebuilt by subscription in 1816 ; after which it was partly pewed off, by the consent of the freeholders of the township, to be occupied as a meeting-house for the Methodist body. It is now used on Sundays as a Primitive Methodist chapel. About 50 scholars attend the week-day school ; and the church Sunday school is held in the same building. The village contains a post-office, and is the station of a parish constable. Ingleton was one of the places included in the grant of Canute to the church of Durham. The Nevilles possessed the greater part of the township, as a member of Raby ; and a portion of land was held under them by the family of Bowes. The principal freeholders at present, are T. Hutchinson, Esq., and C. Middleton, Esq., who is lord of the manor. THE CHAPEL Is a neat plain edifice, of the early pointed style of architecture, consisting of a nave and chancel, the latter being entered by an elegant archway. There is a bell- turret and an entrance porch at the west. The roof is of high pitch, and covered with slate. There are three windows on the south side and three on the north, each of two compartments. The east window is of three compartments. The chapel contains 206 sittings, all of which are free. The building cost £430, towards which the Church Building ' Society gave £100, the Duke of Cleveland £100, and the remainder was made up by subscription; the neighbouring farmers and others leading the required materials free. The church is dedicated to St. John, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Durham, November 1, 1843. A spacious burying ground is attached. The vicar of Staindrop is patron of the living ; and the Rev. Martin Wright is the present incumbent, who entered upon his duties in 1845, though no endowment was made until 1849. By an order in council, July 30, in that year, the ecclesiastical commissioners made an annual grant of £30 to the living ; the net income being stated at £35, and the commissioners were at that time unable to raise it to the full extent of the scale of population. The order in council of January 8, 1850, mentioned above, which annexed Killerby to this cha pelry, declared that " so much and such of the tithe CHAPELRY OF INGLETON. 115 rent-charges belonging to the vicarage of Heighington as arise and accrue within the townships of Killerby and Walworth, in the said parish of Heighington, were transferred to the said district chapelry of Ingleton for ever." The rent-charge for the township of Killerby is £20, and that for the township of Walworth £31,* or £51 in all; this sum being subjeet to all rates and charges. In 1850, a donation of £350 was made from the Maltby Fund towards the erection of a parsonage house at Ingleton. The house cost about £830, in cluding the ground; and the remainder, besides the above grant, was raised by subscription. For the charities payable to the chapelry of Ingleton, see Staindrop, p. 91. HILTON. The township of Hilton, which adjoins that of Ingleton on the north, contains 1,092 acres. The number of inhabitants in 1801 was 88, and at the following suc cessive periods of enumeration, 104, 113, 118, 112, and 101. Of the latter number, 58 were males and 43 females; and there were 22 inhabited houses and 3 uninhabited. The township, which contains eight farms, was assessed for the county-rate in 1853 at £861. The Teesdale Union received from the township of Hilton, during the year ended March, 1854, £31 10s. for out-relief and lunatics; £12 8s. 5d. for irremovea ble poor, salaries, and other common charges ; 16s. 6d. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 10s. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists; and £3 0s. 6d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, inci dental expenses, &c. The total expenditure, £48 5s. 5d., was £7 12s. 8d. more than that of the preceding year. The cost of registration was lis. 2d.; and the overseers paid £14 lis. 10 |d. to the county-rate. The little village of Hilton is pleasantly situated on an eminence, 3 miles east-north-east from Staindrop, and is chiefly inhabited by persons engaged in agricul ture. Hilton Hall, the ancient family seat, is now a farm-house, occupied by Mr. J. J. Read. When the * The dean and chapter of Durham, and the Rev. Wilson Beckett, incumbent of Heighington, made it a condition, in giving their con sent to the arrangement, that the commissioners shouldrecommend to her majesty in council that additional provision for the cure of souls in that parish should be made ; and they accordingly proposed " that aU our estate and interest in aU the yearly rent-charge or sum of fifty-four pounds ten shillings, lately belonging to the second ca- nonry in the cathedral church of Durham, awarded to the Right Reverend John Bird, Bishop of Chester, the then holder of such canonry, and his successors, in lieu of the rectorial tithe arising or VOL. II. estate was purchased by the Earl of Darlington in 1789, " right of court-leet and court-baron, and several quit-rents payable to the lord of the said manor," were attached to the lordship of Hilton. With the mansion house were " several messuages or tenements, farms, and closes of arable, meadow, and pasture ground, parcel of the said manor, containing together, by esti mation, 838 acres or thereabouts, greatly underlet to substantial tenants, at the yearly rent of £566 and upwards." The estate was described as " capable of very great improvements, lying compact together, plea santly situate on a gentle rising ground, commanding a most beautiful prospect of an extensive vale, and in the centre of the several market towns of Darlington, Bishop Auckland, Barnard Castle, and Staindrop. There are coal pits within three miles of Hilton, and every reason to suppose coal may be found in the premises : the land-tax remarkably low, and several valuable quarries upon the estate." The manor of Hilton was anciently held by the Boweses of the Neville family. Thirteen of its inha bitants joined the Northern Rising, three of whom suffered death in consequence. James I., in 1606, granted the manors of Hilton and Bradbury to Thomas Emerson, Esq., for 1,000 years, under the yearly rent of £550. Hilton afterwards passed to the Mannings, from whom it was purchased by Henry Marley, at which time it was charged with £160, as its portion of the rent. A family named Hilton subsequently held the manor for several generations. They were descended from Thomas Hilton, of Hilton Bacon, in Westmoreland, Esq., and Catherine, daughter of Anthony Bracken- bury, of Selaby. Lancelot, their second son, married, first, Catherine, daughter and coheiress of Ralph Al went, of Dyons, by whom he had issue James Hilton, of Dyons, three other sons, and four daughters ; and, secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of Leonard Smelt, of Kirby-Fletham, Yorkshire, and relict of Richard Cock field, by whom he had issue Leonard Hilton, died in 1605-6 ; Francis Hilton, of Killerby ; Lancelot Hilton, growing within the township of Redworth, in the parish of Heighing ton, in the county of Durham, and apportioned upon the lands lying within the said township, shall forthwith, and without any con veyance or assurance in the law other than this scheme, and any duly gazetted order of your majesty in councU ratifying the same, become and be vested in the said Wilson Beckett, clerk, vicar of Heighington aforesaid, and his successors, vicars of Heighington, for ever." This scheme was confirmed by an order in council, dated on the 9th, and gazetted on the 15th of March, 1850, K 116 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. of Durham and of Hilton ; and a daughter. He died in 1636. Lancelot, son of the above, born in 1608, was an attorney-at-law, a collector of ship-money in Crossgate constablery in 1635-6, and under-sheriff during the Commonwealth in 1652. He married, first, Mary, daughter of Thomas Colmore, of Durham, by whom he had issue Lancelot, Abraham, Richard, Cuthbert, Ro bert, Eleanor, and Elizabeth; secondly, Dorothy, daughter of William Wright, and relict of John Cra- dock, of Gainford, by whom he had issue three sons* and three daughters ; and, thirdly, Anne, daughter of Ralph Salkeld, of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and widow of William Hilton, apothecary, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Abraham, second son of Lancelot Hilton, succeeded to the estate on the death of his father in 1685 (the first-born, Lancelot, having died young), and married, first, Eleanor, daughter, of Henry Marley, of Hilton, by whom he had issue Mary, who died young ; and, secondly, Eleanor, daughter of Thomas Massock, of Headlam, who survived him, and afterwards married Samuel Burton, of Keverstone. On the death of Abraham Hilton in 1718, he was succeeded, as lord of the manor of Hilton, by Abraham, grandson of Richard, his eldest brother. He married Margaret, daughter and coheiress of Isaac Surtees, of Myresflatt, near Darlington, and had issue Henry (who succeeded him in 1748), Abraham, and Mary. Henry Hilton, of Hilton, died in 1759, without issue, and was succeeded? by his brother, Abraham, born in 1731, one of the six clerks in Chancery, who married, in 1765, Anne, daughter of James Close, of Richmond, Gent. He advertised the manor and man sion house of Hilton for sale by auction on the 11th of July, 1785 ; and they were purchased in 1789, as above noticed, by the Earl of Darlington, for £10,040. Abraham Hilton died December 22, in the same year : he had issue Abraham, born 1766, died unmarried October 1, 1792; Ralph, who died in infancy; Henry, a spirit-merchant at Barnard Castle, died in 1843; James Surtees, lieutenant in the 62nd regiment of foot, and captain in the 16th light horse, died unmarried at * One of these, Alexander, was curate of Denton, and rector of Romaldkirk, and died in 1682, leaving two sons; William, an attor ney, who carried about a brief describing himself as mad, and praying for means to put himself into prison ; and Cuthbert, noticed at page 17. f The arms of the Hiltons of HUton, co. pal., are the same as the old coat of HUton in Westmoreland, viz., Sable, two saltires in chief and three annulets, two and one, argent ; Crest, on a wreath a demi- Darlington, after his return from the West Indies, October 30, 1796, aged 22; William Freeman, some time cornet in the 27th light dragoons, died May, 1798, aged 23, on his passage home from the East Indies; Margaret, born 1770, married to Harrington Lee, of Darlington, and died in 1830 ; and Mary- Anne, who died unmarried May 6, 1803, aged 25.f WACKERFIELD. The township of Wackerfield, to the west of that of Hilton, contains 744 acres, divided into five farms. The value of property assessed for the county-rate in 1853 was £1,011 18s. lid. The number of inhabitants, at the respective decennial returns, was 94, 113, 105, 112, 122, and 136. Of the latter number, 70 were males and 66 females, inhabiting 24 houses. During the year ended March, 1854, this township contributed £5 Is. 8d. to the Teesdale Union for in- maintenance, clothing, and funerals; £5 4s. for out- relief and lunatics; £8 6s. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges; 16s. 6d. for con stable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 7s. 6d. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists ; and £1 10s. 6d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. ; being a total expenditure of £21 6s. 2d. Towards this sum, £5 6s. 2d. was received as repay ments of relief by relations, &c. ; the balance, £16, being £22 lis. less than the net expenditure of the preceding year. The registration cost Is. lOd. ; and the overseers paid £17 to the county-rate. The village of Wackerfield, 3 miles north-east from Staindrop, contains two public houses and a blacksmith's shop. It was one of the places included in the gift of Canute, and was held of the prior and convent, in the time of Cardinal Langley, by a family named Sockburn, by fealty and 12d. rent. The Nevilles afterwards held it as a member of Raby ; and a portion of it is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland, the remainder belonging to W. W. Hawdon, Esq. For an account of the township of Killerby, re cently attached to this chapelry, see vol. i., p. 535. griffin. The famUy has been widely diffused, through the KUlerby, Dyons, and other branches throughout the county of Durham. Mr. Longstaffe derives the Westmoreland famUy from Robert de HUton, younger brother of WUUam de HUton, baron of the bishopric, who died before 1208 ; but Raine curtly observes, " The Hyltons of Hylton Castle, county palatine, and the HUtons of HUton Bacon, county of Westmoreland, are two distinct famiUes, utterly unconnected with each other in their origin, whatever may be said or assumed to the contrary." CHAPELRY OF WHORLTON. 117 PAEOCHIAL CHAPELEY OF WHOELTON. THE parochial chapelry of Whorlton is bounded by the township of Westwick, in the chapelry of Barnard Castle, on the west ; by the parish of Winston on the north and east, and by the Tees, dividing it from the parish of Wycliffe, in the North Riding of Yorkshire, on the south. It consists of one township, but includes the estates of Sledwish, Arlaw Banks, Whorley Hill, Etherley, and Humbleton, and a portion of that of Stubb House, the remainder of which is in the adjoining parish of Winston. The township of Whorlton comprises an area of 1,760 acres, the property in which was valued for the county- rate, in 1853, at £1,800 17s. 8d. In 1801, the number of inhabitants was 245; in 1811, 246; in 1821, 300; in 1831, 311; in 1841, 286; and in 1851, 296, of whom 154 were males and 142 females. There were, at the latter date, 60 inhabited houses, and 1 unin habited. The chapelry of Whorlton, during the year ended March, 1854, contributed to the Teesdale Union, for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £4 lis. Id. ; for extra medical charges, 10s. ; for out-relief and lunatics, £33 2s. ; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £19 16s. ; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 14s. 6d. ; for law costs, revising barristers, and jury lists, 10s. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, 9s. lid. The repayments of relief by relations and other receipts amounted to 15s., which reduced the ex penditure to the net sum of £58 7s. 6d. ; being £1 19s. 3d. less than that of the preceding year. The vaccination fees were 12s. 6d., and the expenses of registration, £1 2s. 8d. The overseers paid to the county-rate £31 7s. 8d. Being a member of the great lordship of Barnard Castle, Whorlton passed with it to the successive noble families enumerated in the history of that place, till the attainder of the Earl of Westmoreland in 1569. In the reign of James I., it was comprised in the grant to the citizens of London, in trust for sale ; and the principal part of it was purchased from the trustees by Taylor and Lee, who sold it to Ambrose Johnson. This family * Some years ago, the Earl of Darlington summoned Archdeacon Headlam, and Robert Dinsdale and Thomas Harrison, Esqrs., to do suit and service to the honour of Barnard Castle, in the prosecution of which claim he caused certain iaclosures belonging to the Arch deacon and Mr. Harrison to be broken down. The latter, however, recovered damages from the duke in a cause tried at Durham. continued to hold the estate till 1725, when it was pur chased by Robert Sanderson, Esq. ; and it afterwards passed by marriage to the Milburns, of Armathwaite Castle, Cumberland. In 1819, on the sale of the property in Whorlton belonging to R. S. Milburne, Esq., Thomas Harrison, Esq., of Stubb House, be came the purchaser of the manor of Whorlton, and of Whorley Hill, a farmstead and cottages, occupying 79 a. 3 r. 18 p. Mr. Harrison was also owner of Etherley and other property in the chapelry, which now belong to P. H. Stanton, Esq., of Newcastle-upon- Tyne. Arlaw Banks is the property of Mr. Christopher Lonsdale. An estate, anciently belonging to the Wycliffes, was afterwards held by the Bacons of Newton Cap, and is now the property of Morley Headlam, Esq., son of the late Ven. Archdeacon Headlam.* The town pasture was divided in 1677. On February 4, 1851, the Inclosure Commissioners for England and Wales gave notice that the Ven. John Archdeacon Headlam had applied for £1,200 by way of loan for the drainage of lands in the parish of Gain ford and township of Whorlton. The village of Whorlton is situated 3 miles east-south east from Barnard Castle, and contains an endowed school, attended by about 60 children, two public- houses, and a few mechanics. Several of the houses bear dates of the early parts of the last century. A row of stone cottages, with flagged roofs, and small gardens in front, were erected on the east side of the road through the village, by the late Archdeacon Headlam, about 20 years ago.f A chapel belonging to the Independents was erected near the church in 1840 ; the ministry is f Aeistooratic Swindlers. — In September, 1851, Whorlton be came the residence of a gentleman and lady, bearing the names of WUUam O'Brien Fitzgerald, Esq., and the Hon. Lady EmUy Augusta Fitzgerald. On the 9th of AprU, 1852, they were brought up in cus tody before the Ven. Archdeacon Headlam, at Wyclyffe, charged with having obtained £40 from Mr. Wm. Henry Payn, soUcitor, at 118 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. conducted by Mr. Ferdinand Raine, who attends every Sunday. The village is well supplied with water. The situation of Whorlton is extremely beautiful ; the Tees, with its overhanging cliffs, thickly fringed ¦ 4 Dover, in the county of Kent, under false pretences. It appeared, from the statements and deposition of Mr. Payn, that in the month of September last he was sent for by the prisoners (who were then incar cerated in a prison at Pau, in France) , to defend them against some charges brought against them of defrauding the tradesmen there to a great extent, by appearing as, and representing themselves to be English aristocrats, and Uving in splendid style without paying their accounts, On Mr. Payn's arrival at Pau, he found the prisoners had been tried and sentenced to 12 months' imprisonment five days pre viously ; but he obtained an appeal to a superior court, and it was ultimately decided that if the prisoners discharged the accounts of the tradesmen, and found bail for their appearance on a future day to answer any further charges which might be preferred against them, they were to be liberated. From the plausible statements made by the prisoners to Mr. Payn, backed by false names in their passports, a false entry from a marriage register in Yorkshire, and an affection ate letter from the Queen of the French, obtained by trickery, he was induced to advance money to discharge the debts incurred by the prisoners, and deposit a sum by way of bail, amounting together to between £700 and £800, and they were thereupon Hberated. The prisoners then came to England with Mr. Payn, and on their arrival at Dover, pretended to him that they were entitled to a sum of £3,000, which was in the hands of their agent, Mr. Henry Foster, an Irish barrister, residing atFurnival's Inn, London ; that this sum was due to them in the month of November then last past, and as they were then without funds v> herewith to con vey them home to Durham, they requested Mr. Payn to advance them £40, to be repaid with the other sums he had laid down for them out of the £3,000 to be received from Mr. Henry Foster. They also represented themselves to be of noble birth, and that the female prisoner was the Hon. Lady Emily Augusta Fitzgerald, daughter of Lady Ann Isabella Howard ; that the said Lady Emily was the widow of Count Eltz, an Hun garian nobleman, who died eleven years after their marriage, and during part of which period the Countess Eltz resided at Florence, where the count was commandant at the time of the revolution ; that the Lady EmUy was entitled to large estates as the widow of the count, and to money lent by him to Lord Normanby ; and that the papers were with their agent, Mr. H. Foster ; that the Lady Emily was at the present time under the displeasure of her mother for marrying her present husband, who was only a private gentleman; and that the Lady EmUy was related to the famUy of the Duke of Cleveland, had resided at Raby Castle in her youth, and was also related to Lord Carlisle's family, resident at Castle Howard, in York shire. From these and other similar representations, Mr. Payn advanced them £40. He soon commenced enquiries after Mr. Henry Foster, but finding no such person, he communicated with his agent in Durham, who watched the whereabouts of the prisoners, and it seems they had come to Whorlton very shortly after leaving Dover. Mr. Payn having accertained their residence, wrote several letters to Mr. Fitzgerald, at Whorlton, stating he was unable to find Mr. Henry Foster, and requiring an explanation ; to these letters he received evusive replies. He also advertised for Mr. Foster in the French journals, and searched Dublin and Liverpool for him without success. Mr. Payn's evidence was taken, wherein he deposed to the ma terial facts above mentioned, and stated he believed the representa tions of the prisoners to be false, and that, in fact, there was no such person as the Mr. II. Foster alluded to by the prisoners. In answer with trees, passing near it on the south. On the oppo site bank, the village of Wycliffe, with its church steeple, forms a beautiful object;* and a fine range of country extends to the south-east, south, and west, in to the charge, the prisoners stated that Mr. Payn was not promised to have the money from Mr. Foster, but told that he had a- bond for the money, and that it was not their faults that Mr. Foster could not be found. Archdeacon Headlam committed the prisoners to Dover, where the offences were stated to have occured, but consented to take baU in £100 for their appearance, which not being produced, the pri soners were conveyed to the poUce station at Barnard Castle, from whence they were removed to Dover, and committed for trial by the magistrates of that plaee. It appeared that the gentleman had been a wine-merchant's clerk and a broker at the Stock Exchange, named WiUiam Bennet Sothers ; his father being a grocer at Gravesend- He wrote articles on finance and Stock-Exchange transactions for the papers, getting into debt, and something worse. Having had an action of crim. con. brought against him, in "Wakefield v. Sothers," he thought it best to fly the country, and change his name, going to Italy. For some years, his talents were employed in victimizing the nobUity, gentry, and the trading community. Strange to say, the legal profession were duped by him and his "Lady" EmUy (the widow or wUe of an Austrian officer) with some success, until cut short in his deep-laid artifice against Mr. Payn. In October follow ing, Mrs Sothers, Dienbacher, alias Lady EmUy Fitzgerald, who had been arrested some weeks before at the suit of EmUy Baillie, was discharged out of custody by Mr. Sutton of Ormond-street, London, on her paying to his client £50 in discharge for £315. Mr. Sutton's own debt amounted to £750 ; and Mr. Ford, of Henrietta-street, Con vent-garden, held a bUl for £400, drawn by Sothers and accepted by Emily Fitzgerald de Diernbacher before marriage. These debts were stated to the grand jury. Mr. Addison was employed by " Lady Emily '' to plead her discharge for some informaUty before Mr. Justice Erie, but without effect, and she was returned to custody. Finding no hope left of obtaimng her discharge, she tendered the £50, which was accepted. The male prisoner was, in the interim, transported. * Wycmffe.— This village, the birth-place of John WycUffe, the great reformer of the church, and long the seat of his family, is situated on the southern bank of the Tees, about four miles east from Barnard Castle. Access is gained to the opposite bank of the river by means of an ancient rustic ferry, or by the modern suspension bridge at Whorlton. The vUlage is embosomed in trees, and the river flows close by. The parish contains 2,162 acres ; and the population, in 1851, was 144, consisting of an equal number of males and females, inhabiting 24 houses. WycUffe Hall, formerly the seat of the local family, and now the property of their descendant, Sir C. Constable, stands boldly on the summit of a cliff, divided by a brook from the adjacent woods. The foundations of the church are coeval with the Conquest, though some remains are supposed to be of earlier date. During the succession of ages, it had suffered great dUapida- tions, and had become almost a ruin. The tasteless repairs and alterations which had from time to time been effected also contributed much to detract from its venerable appearance. Under the auspices of the late rector, the Ven. Archdeacon Headlam, and his son, the Rev. Arthur HeacUam, the long-needed restorations and repairs were effected in 1853, from plans furnished by Mr. Austin, architect, of Newcastle, and by which the church has resumed much of the appearance which it originally presented. Some of the monumental brasses, notwithstanding the neglect to which they have been ex posed, are in fine preservation : they are principally memorials of the CHAPELRY OF WHORLTON. 119 which latter direction the now classical woods of Rokeby and Mortham are visible. The Bridge. — In 1829, an act of parliament was obtained for building a bridge over the Tees at Whorl ton, and making a turnpike road from Staindrop to Greta Bridge, with a branch from Whorlton to Bar nard Castle, and another from the south end of the bridge to the turnpike from Winston Bridge to Small- ways. The foundation stone of the bridge was laid on the 9th of June in that year by Miss Headlam, daughter of the archdeacon, amidst great rejoicings ; but, during the flood which occurred in the night of October 13, the structure, so far as completed, was entirely carried away, to the ruin of the contractors. At this juncture, the Ven. Archdeacon Headlam, Thomas Harrison, Robert Dinsdale, and Thomas Whel- don, Esqrs., undertook, at their own risk, to erect a suspension bridge of iron, the foundation stone of the north pier of which was laid on the 19th of August, 1830 ; and the main chains were thrown over the piers, and safely moored into the rock on each side, on the 1st of April, 1831. On July 7, this elegant structure, which was erected from the designs and under the direction of the late Mr. Green, architect, Newcastle, was opened for public use by a procession, consisting of a band of music, the architect, and the committee of management, on horseback, followed by a train of twenty- seven carriages, and a numerous assemblage of spec tators on horse and foot, who proceeded over the bridge, and along the line of road to Thorpe, the seat of WycHffe famUy, and the most ancient are about 500 years old. The church was re-opened for worship on the 8th of October, 1853, by the Bishop of Ripon. The life of Wycliffe forms a portion of the history of his country and of Europe. He was born about the year 1324, and studied at Oxford, where he distinguished himself by his attention to his studies. As early as 1356, he inveighed against the authority of the Pope ; and in 1360 was active in opposing the mendicant friars. His sub sequent life was spent in struggling with what he conceived to be abuses in the church, in which he was sometimes supported by the aristocracy, and always highly popular with the people. His opposi tion to the claims made by the Pope made him favourably known to many of the nobles ; whUst his doctrines were frequently subjected to the censures of the hierarchy. Like many other bold spirits, who have had the courage to denounce abuses, he was frequently led into extremes of an opposite character ; but his talents and learning were unquestionable, and he evoked a spirit of enquiry, the effects of which are stUl felt, and wiU long continue to influence both the speculations and the practices of mankind. He died of paralysis on the 31st of December, 1384, at Lutterworth, of which he was rector ; and 30 years after his death, his bones, by order of the CouncU of Con stance, were taken up and burnt, and the ashes thrown into a brook. * On Saturday, June 25, 1842, four anglers (a clerical gentleman, a shoemaker, a schoolmaster, and a boy), in order to pursue their sport, Colonel Cradock, M.P., one of the chief promoters of the undertaking, and returned along the bridge again to Whorlton. The span between the points of suspen sion is 180 feet. Some repairs being required, the bridge was closed for a short time, and re-opened to the public in September, 1854. THE CHAPEL. The old chapel was a small, ancient edifice, consisting of a nave and chancel, divided by a round-headed arch, without ornament, and afforded accommodation for about 90 persons. The door-way, which opened to the south under a low porch, was early Norman. The building, falling into decay, was recently pulled down, and a new chapel built upon its site at the south of the village. It was opened in 1853, the ceremony of consecration being performed by the bishop of Cape Town. It is an elegant stone building, in the decorated style of architecture, and consists of a nave and chancel, with an open roof of oak, stained and varnished. The chancel is floored with Minton's encaustic tiles, and the portion of the nave occupied as sittings is floored with wood. The seats are oak, stained and varnished, and all open, capable of accommodating about 150 persons. The chapel is entered by a porch on the south, and at the south-west corner an octagonal turret or spire, about 50 feet high, forms a belfry. The roof is of high pitch, covered with Westmoreland slate. There is a large window at the west end, divided into four compart- went on to a small island in the middle of the Tees, a short distance from Whorlton. The island is easy of access when the water is low, but unapproachable when the contrary is the case. They had not been long on the island when it began to rain, and they were glad to seek shelter among the bushes. But while they were in this situa tion, a great body of water came rolling down the river, owing to there having been a great faU of rain further westward. The poor fishers leaped up in astonishment, and to their infinite mortification, not to say dismay, found that the tiny stream which before had scarcely wet their feet, had now become an impetuous flood, seven feet deep, precluding every possibiUty of escape. To add to their disaster, the rain now fell in torrents. In the evening, their situation was descried by some neighbours, who, by means of ropes, conveyed to them refreshments and materials for making a fire, which some what cheered them through the long and dreary night that ensued. When morning came (being Sunday), a large crowd of people were collected on the opposite bank, to view the forlorn islanders. In the evening, however, the flood abated, and they were enabled to quit the place of their captivity. The clerical gentleman, who was a tall man, waded through, with the boy on his shoulders ; and the others were puUed through the stUl deep and rapid stream by a rope. One of the spectators, to show his agility, went along the provision rope to the island ; but. on his returning, the rope broke, and he narrowly escaped drowning. 120 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. ments, with trefoil openings crowned with rich tracery, and in the gable is a small circular window. That at the east end is of three compartments, and similar in other respects to the west window. Of the same cha racter are three windows on the north side, two on the south, and two in the chancel. The east and west ends of the building are surmounted by crosses. The pulpit is of stone, of neat construction. There is a stone baptismal font, lined with lead ; and near to it is a stove, by which the church is warmed. The building is surrounded by a well-laid drain of earthenware pipes. The stone for the church was procured fwithin a few hundred yards of the place. The erection of the edifice cost £600, which was raised by public subscription, a rate of 2s. in the pound on a rental of £1,800,* and a grant from the Church Building Society. The bury ing ground remains unaltered. Registers. — Book No. 1 contains baptisms from 1626 to 1724 ; burials, 1678, 1688, to 1725 ; and mar riages from 1713 to 1725 (imperfect). No. 2, baptisms from 1725 to 1797; burials, 1724 to 1797; and marriages, 1727 to 1753. No. 3, baptisms and burials, 1798 to 1812; No. 4, marriages, 1754 to 1812. Whorlton is a perpetual curacy ; the vicar of Gain ford, patron. Cert, val., £12 10s. Dedication to St. Mary. Curates. — Henry Armitage, 1636 ; John Moresby, (" a laic, cele- brator of clandestine marriages, and guilty of other misdemeanors"), 1677 ; WUliam Brockell (curate of Wycliffe), September 29, 1716, p. susp. Moresby ; — Grey (" a vagabond Scot"), Christmas- day, 1724, p. exp. BrockeU, who " was unjustly and violently ejected from the same cure, and from his stipend of fourteen pounds, by James MaUed, Gallo perfido et profligato, on the instigation of T. E. (Thomas Eden), rector of Winston ; — Parkins ; Peter Fisher (vicar of Staindrop, &c.) ; James Farrer (vicar of BrignaU, Yorkshire, not Ucensed to Whorlton) ; PhUip Airey, 1757, p. exp. Farrer ; Richard WUson (perp. curate of Bowes), 1793, on presentation of Thomas Harrison, Esq. ; Robert Green, A.M. (curate of AU Saints, Newcastle), 1822 ; James Potts, 1827, p. res. Green ; John George Edwards, A.M., 1849, p. m. Potts ; Arthur Headlam, 1854, p. res. Edwards for the vicarage of Pittington. The parsonage house has long been unfit for resi dence. In 1767, Whorlton received £200 by lot from Queen Anne's Bounty. In 1771, the Rev. John Ro- therham contributed £200 ; in 1795, £200 was given by the trustees of Mr. Marshall (a great benefactor to the Bounty fund) ; and in 1800, £200 was given by Bishop Barrington. Each of these donations was met • The Ven. Archdeacon Headlam, and P. H. Stanton, Esq., of Newcastle, paid this rate for their tenantry, in aid of the building fund. by one of similar amount from Queen Anne's Bounty; and with the proceeds various parcels of land in the chapelry, containing altogether 59 A. 2 r., were pur chased as glebe, in addition to the cemetery, containing half an acre. The corn-tithes were formerly paid to the representatives of the late Earl of Strathmore; a modus of 6s. 8d. was paid to the curate for hay from the estates of Sledwish, Arlaw Bank, and Humbleton ; and the hay-tithe of the remainder of the township was paid to the late Archdeacon Headlam. The curate received all other tithes in kind. In 1850, all the tithes were commuted for £257 per annum, viz., to the incumbent curate, £75 ; to Archdeacon Headlam, £37 ; and to William Hutt, Esq., and his wife, the dowager Countess of Strathmore, lessees of the Master, Fellows, and Scholars of Trinity College, Cambridge, £145. The latter sum is now collected by B. Simpson, Esq., solicitor, Richmond, as agent for the college. The gross income of the living is stated at £113 per annum, subject to permanent payments amounting to £6. CHARITIES. Lonsdale's Charity. — Christopher Lonsdale, by will, dated March 11, 1747, bequeathed £20 to Thomas and Richard Holmes, to be put out at interest by them and the survivor, the heirs, executors, and administrators of such survivor, and the interest to be paid yearly to the use of the poor of Whorlton on Christmas-eve. By an award, May 13, 1793, Cornelius Harrison, Esq., of Stubb House, was adjudged liable to the payment of this interest, as being the legal representative of T. and R. Holmes; and he consequently, until his death in 1806, paid 16s. a year to the curate for distribution, or distributed it himself. His sister also, who was his executrix, continued the same practice until her death in 1810. Thomas Harrison, Esq., who succeeded to his father's property, and P. H. Stanton, Esq., the present owner, have also kept up the payment. Donor unknown. — About half an acre of land in the township is supposed to have been left many years ago, the rents to be given to the oldest poor inhabitant not receiving relief. This land produced £1 per annum ; but money being wanted to rebuild the village school- house, the land was sold, and the money laid out upon the school, on account of which the master pays £1 annually to the oldest poor inhabitant. The school is attended by about 60 boys and girls, who are instructed on the national system. A clock, presented by Mr. Dove, of Greta Bridge, is fixed above the entrance. PARISH OF WINSTON. 121 Sledwish. — About half a mile to the west of Whorl ton stands Sledwish Hall, now occupied as a farm-house. It is one of those ancient and venerable dwellings which still to be found in isolated and lonely places, are scarcely reached by the revolutionary hand of modern improvement, but bearing in its grey old age the me morials of former splendour. That portions of it were built or restored by one of its possessors in the time of Queen Elizabeth, is evident from an elaborately deco rated ceiling, in which the armorial emblems of that sovereign are conspicuous objects ; but there are other parts of the building which bear traces of a higher antiquity. In the large hall there is a wide fire-place, with an antique bracketted chimney-piece. The south front appears to be the most ancient part of the edifice. Like many similar remnants of former times, Sledwish Hall has its grim traditions of mystery, concealment, and secret passages, which received a seeming corrobo ration, some years ago, by the discovery of the remains of an infant in a stone coffin in an adjoining field. This, however, has been accounted for on the supposi tion that the Catholic possessors of this place, in times of persecution, might bury their dead privately with their own ceremonies, and that some priest of their faith might have found a refuge in the intricacies of this remote and secluded edifice. The hall was repaired and restored in 1854 ; but many of the interior decora tions have been removed. Sledwish was held from an early period by the Menvils. Ninian Menvil, after his participation in the plot for placing Lady Jane Grey on the throne, fled and was outlawed, but was restored in blood and estate on the accession of Elizabeth. Towards the latter end of the 16th century, Sledwish passed from Ralph Ash- ton, Esq., to John Clopton, Esq., the queen's receiver for several of the northern counties, and who displayed his loyalty by decorating the " orchard chamber" as above described. From his descendant the estate passed to the Townleys, of Lancashire, from whom it was purchased, in 1642, by Sir John Clavering, of Callaly, Northumberland, for £2,370. After belonging to the Withams, of Cliff, it was bequeathed by Thomas Breaks, of London, Gent., to his nephew, Charles Allen, surgeon, of Greenwich Hospital, whose daughter intermarried with James Poole, Esq., of Gray's Inn ; and Sledwish is now the property of their son, Edward Poole, Esq., barrister-at-law, of Ledbury, Herefordshire. Stubb House, to the east of Whorlton, is a handsome residence, occupied by Richard Dodgson, Esq. The estate, which is partly in the parish of Winston, was derived from the Holmses by Cornelius Harrison, Esq., whose son, Thomas Harrison, Esq., bequeathed it to P. H. Stanton, Esq., of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the present proprietor. PAEISH OF WINSTON. I HE parish of Winston is bounded on the west by the chapelry of Whorlton, on the north and east by the parish of Gainford (the Langley Beck forming the boundary), and on the south by the Tees. It forms one township, including the villages of Winston and Newsham, the estates of Heighley (or Heighclifie) Hall, Osmond- croft, Barford-on-the-Hill, and Westholme, and part of that of Stubb House. The parish and township of Winston contains 2,961 acres ; and the property in it was assessed to the county- rate in 1853 for £2,679 lis. lid. The population, in 1801, was 307; in 1811,284; in 1821, 287; in 1831, 327; in 1841,293; and in 1851, 301, of whom 155 were males and 146 females. There were, at the latter date, 55 inhabited houses and 5 uninhabited. The contributions of the parish of Winston to the Teesdale Union, in the year ended March, 1854, were as follow: — For in-maintainance, clothing, and funerals, £26 lis. Id. ; for out-relief and lunatics, £34 16s. 6d. ; irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £57 4s. lis.; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 17s. ; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 10s. 6d. ; and for jour neys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, £1 15s. 3d. ; making atotol expenditure of £121 15s. 3d. The repayments of relief by relations and other receipts amounted to 10s. ; and the balance ex ceeded the net expenditure of the previous year by £42 7s. Id. The registration cost £1 3s. 2d. ; and the overseers paid £45 19s. 3d. to the county-rate. lw,v DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. The village of Winston stands on the ridge of a hill overlooking the Tees, and contains a public house, and a few masons, wrights, small shopkeepers, &c. The village is well supplied with water. Besides the en dowed school (see Charities) there is a dame-school in the village. Winston Bridge. — In 1424, Ralph Neville, Earl of Westmoreland, by will, dated at Raby, October 18, be queathed 100 marks towards building abridge at Wyn- ston. There is, however, no record of the erection of such a fabric, though the necessity of having a passage across the Tees at this place must even then have been apparent. " Before the building of Winston Bridge," says Bailey, " towards the latter end of the eighteenth century, the coal carriers from the North Riding of Yorkshire, when coming into the county of Durham, always provided themselves with axes, in order to be prepared to render the roads passable by mending them after the primitive fashion now pursued on the corduroy roads in the backwoods of America." The present bridge was built in 1763 and 1764, from a plan designed by Sir Thomas Robinson, Bart., of Rokeby. It con sists of a single arch, the segment of a circle, measur ing 112 feet span, 22 feet broad, and 20 feet between the parapet walls. It was long considered by architects the largest arch in Europe. The elevation renders the road nearly level with the Yorkshire side. The ma terial is a hard blue ragstone. When most of the bridges in the north of England were washed away by the great flood in 1771, Winston bridge remained un injured. The river scenery in the locality is extremely beautiful. The manor of Winston was anciently a part of the estates of the Fitz-Meldreds of Raby, and was granted, in 1313, by Ralph Lord Neville to Geoffrey le Scrope, of Masham, chief justice of the King's Bench. On the execution of Henry Scrope for treason against King Henry V., the estate was considered a forfeiture to the see ; but being entailed, it was restored by Bishop Neville to John, brother of Henry Scrope, and con tinued in the family till the death of Emanuel, Earl of Sunderland, whose estates were inherited by three natural daughters. By marriage with one of these, * Earl op Bkidgewatek. — With this nobleman, a descendant of the Duke named in the text, the title of Bridgewater became extinct. By his wUl, his lordship bequeathed his manuscripts to the British Museum, with the interest of £7,000 to the librarians in whose charge they were placed, and £5,000to augmentthe collection of manuscripts of that institution. He also left £8,000 to the President of the Royal Society, for some person or persons whom he might appoint, to write, print, publish, and expose to public sale one thousand copies of a Winston came into the possession of Scrope Egerton, first Duke of Bridgewater, in whose posterity it conti nued till the death of John, seventh Earl of Bridge- water, on which event his brother, the Hon. and Rev. Francis Henry Egerton, succeeded to the title as eighth Earl of Bridgewater.* John, dying without issue in 1823, devised his freehold estates in trust, to convey them to Lord Alford, his great nephew, with a proviso that if the latter died without having acquired the dignity of Duke of Bridgewater, then the estates should go over to other persons. Lord Alford died, leaving a son, but without having acquired the stipu lated dignity ; and the House of Lords, in 1853, held that the condition as to acquiring the dignity was void, being against public policy, and that the estates de scended to the son of Lord Alford. THE CHURCH. Winston church is situated to the east of the village, on the summit of the lofty and picturesque banks of the Tees, which are here beautifully interspersed with over hanging wood. The edifice is of a peculiar architectural character, of the early pointed transitional style. It consists of a chancel, nave, and south aisle ; the latter formed by four pointed arches, supported on cylindrical columns, with somewhat peculiar square plinths. It is entered by a projecting porch on the south. The nave is lighted by treble windows at the west, and long narrow single windows on the north ; and the aisle by low double windows to the south. The chancel is lighted by treble windows at the east, and very narrow windows in the sides. When the Rev. W. Turner entered upon his duties as rector in 1846, he found the building in a most dilapidated state, and commenced the repairing of the chancel, with the assistance of Mr. Thompson, the bishop's architect ; and it is a matter of regret that the roof, though neat, should not have been restored in harmony with the building. The restoration of the body of the church was soon after wards undertaken, and a considerable portion of the edifice rebuilt, including an open timber roof, and an octagonal bell-tower and spire at the south-west angle work " On the Power, Wisdom, and Goodness of God, as manifested in the Creation ;" and the productions resulting from this munificent bequest are popularly known as the Bridgewater Treatises. The Right Hon. and Rev. Francis Henry Egerton, eighth Earl of Bridge- water, was a son of John Egerton, Lord Bishop of Durham ; and at the period of his decease, he was a prebendary of the fourth stall of Durham Cathedral. See vol. i., page 255, where a brief memoir of his lordship is given. PARISH OF WINSTON. 123 of the building, which forms a marked feature in the landscape when viewed from the Yorkshire side of the river. The present rector, the Rev. W. Webb, com pleted the interior fittings, new pulpit, open seats, &c. The old baptismal font, curiously sculptured with dragons in combat, festoons of roses, &c, remains ; but the royal arms, painted above the chancel, dated 1661, have been removed. The whole of the restorations of the body of the church have been executed in harmony and strict historical accuracy with the date of the original building, for which we are indebted to the taste and judgment of the architect, Mr. Dobson, of Newcastle; and the sacred edifice, which contains sittings for about 170 persons, is now in a most perfect state, presenting an admirable model of a country church. Registers. — Books Nos. 1 and 2 contain entries of baptisms from 1572 to 1644, and 1646 to 1812; burials from 1573 to 1812; and marriages from 1572 to 1753. No. 3 contains marriages from 1754 to 1812.* Winston rectory is in the deanery of Darlington; the Bishop of Durham, patron. King's books, £9 18s. 1 Jd. ; Tenths, 19s. 9Jd. ; Episc. proc, 7s. ; Archid. proc, 2s. ; Synod, and proc, 2s. Dedication to St. Andrew. Rectoks.— Rieardus, 1254 ; Robert de IngUby, 1371 ; Robert de Subblesdon, 1376, p. m. Ingilby; Robert de Conton, 1379, p. res. Subblesdon; John Gudhogh, 1391; WUliam MarshaU, 1406, p. res. Gudhogh ; WiUiam SlegaU, 1406, p. res. MarshaU for Boldon ; John Hunteman, S.T.P. (vicar of Norton and dean of Lanchester), 1409, p. res. SlegaU ; Robert Steele, p. res. Hunteman ; Richard Burgh, 1420, p. res. Steele ; Lancelot Claxton (dean of Lanchester and master of Sherburn Hospital), 1458; Thomas Yakesley, 1496, p. res. Claxton ; Christopher Hobson, 1511, p. m. Yakesley ; Thomas Chambre, 1533, p. m. Hobson ; Anthony Salvayn (successively rector of Ryton and Sedgefield, and prebendary of the 12th stall), p. m. Chambre ; Richard Farrowe, 1559, p. res. Salvayn ; Edward Bankes, A.M., 1570, p. m. Farrowe ; Richard Revington, 1572, p. res. Bankes for Washington ; Henry Ewbank, A.M. (sometime rector of Wolsingham), 1588, p. m. Revington; Daniel Birkhead, S.T.P. (also rector of Egglescliffe, successively preb. of the 6th and 10th staUs), 1620, p. res. Ewbank for Whickham ; Thomas Jackson, S.T.P. (see vol. i., p. 618), 1625, p. m. Birkhead ; Richard Thursby, A.M. (previously vicar of KeUoe), 1631, p. res, Jackson ; Cuthbert Marley, A.M., 1662; Peter Lancaster, A.M., 1672; Sir George Wheler, Knt., S.T.P. (see vol. i., p. 254), 1706, p. m. Lancaster ; Thomas Eden, LL.D. (fourth son of Sir Robert Eden, Bart., preb. of the 9th and then of the 7th stall, rector of Brancepeth), 1709, p. res. Wheler ; John Emerson, A.M., 1754, p. m. Eden ; Hon. Richard * "Die Sabb. 1 Jan. 1583j, Office against WiUiam Bernard, he is presented to be an usurer." " 19 Oct. 1583, sentence that William Bernard shall do penance in his parish church of Winston on the Lord's Day next ensuing, in the usual dress, and shall there publicly read the fifteenth Psalm, Domine, quis habitabit, &c, and shaU give up a biU for three pounds to Robert Appleby to be cancelled." VOL. II. Byron, A.M. (also rector of Ryton), 1774, p. m. Emerson ; Thomas Burgess, D.D. (preb. of the 2nd stall, afterwards successively Bishop of St. David's and of Salisbury), 1795, p. res. Byron for Haughton- le-Skerne; Frederick Mundy, A.M., 1804, p. res. Burgess ; WiUiam Turner, 1846, p. m. Mundy ; WiUiam Webb, A.M., 1848, p. res. Turner. The rectory house stands a little towards the east of the church, and is a neat and commodious building, with beautifully arranged hanging gardens towards the river, commanding one of the richest and softest views on the Tees.f Contiguous is the church- yard, which is gracefully shaded by a number of fine old trees, beneath whose branches a noble prospect of Raby opens to the north. The rector receives the rectorial tithes of Westwick, in the parochial chapelry of Barnard Castle. The vicar of Gainford is entitled to the great tithes of Prim rose Hill or Winston Demesnes ; the rector of Winston holding the vicarial tithes. The income is £557 per CHARITIES. School. — Lord Crewe's executors entrusted to the Rev. Thomas Eden, rector of Winston, the sum of £70, to be laid out in land for the use of a school in the parish, in which the master should teach as many poor children, at 8s. a year each, as the rent would maintain ; the boys to be nominated by the rector for the time being. The Rev. T. Eden bequeathed this sum to Sir Robert Eden and his heirs, to carry out the required objects. The money was for some time in the hands of Sir William Eden, Bart., of Windlestone, and who allowed five per cent, interest for it. On his declining to do so, the principal was placed in the hands of the Rev. W. Webb, rector, by whom it was deposited in the bank of Messrs. Backhouse and Co., Darlington, at the ordinary rate of interest. The Countess of Bridge- water invested £304 lis. 4d. in the three per cent. consols, the interest of which, with that of the £70 above-named is paid to the schoolmaster, who, in con sideration thereof, instructs twelve children (boys and girls) free, in reading, writing, and arithmetic. The average attendance at the school is about 30. The school-house, an excellent stone building, was erected at the expense of the late Lord Alford. " 1632. Richard Sowerby, of Newsham, ordered to do publique penance for adultery, and to pay 40s. to the poor." t From the beautiful situation of the church and parsonage, it has been said tbat a rector of Winston shonld never offer to a lady who had seen this enchanted spot, as he could never be sure that she did not marry the situation, S 124 DARLINGTON WARD-SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Newsham is a little village, 2\ miles south from Staindrop. Newsham Hall, formerly the property and residence of the late Robert Moses Dinsdale, Esq., is now occupied by Miss Moses. Newsham anciently gave name to a local family, from whom it passed to the Boweses; after whom, the Headlams of Stainton were proprietors. Ralph Bowes, Esq., of Barnes, having acquired the estate by marriage with the heiress of Headlam, sold it, in 1591, to Francis Bunny, rector of Ryton. The Douthwaites of Westholme, in 1692, acquired Little Newsham from the Bunnys, and in 1717 sold it to the Bacons of Newton Cap. The ances tors of the present owner of Newsham Hall acquired other portions of the estate, which became much divided. The present proprietors in Newsham are Miss Moses, and Captain Bacon Grey, of Styford, Northumberland. Walker Hall, to the south of News ham, is the property and residence of John Bourne, Esq. Barford-on-the-Moor, or Barford-on-the-Hill, is an estate on the north-western verge of the parish ; a part of it was given to the church of Durham by the Fitz- Meldreds of Raby, and is now held by lease from the dean and chapter. The lordship of Barford was held by the family of Bowes, and afterwards by the Huttons. Lord Rokeby and G. M. Taswell, Esq., are now the principal proprietors. Westholme is another estate formerly belonging to the Boweses, from whom it passed to the Douthwaites, 44th Elizabeth. The daughter of the last heir male of the family, Bernard Douthwaite,* married Jonathan * The deaths of the father and son of this sole survivor of the name are recorded on a fiat stone in the nave of the church, bearing the following inscription : — " Here was buried yB body of John Dowthwaite of Westholme, Gen. who dyed Sept'"' 16th 1680, aged 80 Newton, of Barnard Castle, who sold the estate to the Bacons of Newton Cap. It is now the property of Captain Bacon Grey. The mansion-house, erected by the Douthwaites in 1607, consists of a centre and two gavelled wings, with mullioned windows. It is at pre sent a farm house, in the occupation of Mr. J. C. Wetherilt. Osmondcroft. — Robert Fitz-Meldred granted Os- mondcroft to the church of Durham, under which it was afterwards held by the Boweses. In 1564, it was purchased by Thomas Myddleton, Esq., of Barnard Castle, who resold it in 1571 to Henry Brackenbury. After passing through several intermediate proprietors, it came into the possession of the late Lady Peat, and is now the property of John Leadbitter Smith, Esq. The exterior of the old mansion-house has been somewhat modernized ; it is now used as a farm house. Heighley (or Heighcliffe) Hall was a possession and residence of the Scropes, situated to the south west of Winston. It was an antique mansion, with pointed and mullioned windows, capable of admitting but a dim light into the interior, in which a huge fire place was one of the most conspicuous features. This house, and the last remains of a chapel or hermitage, which once stood near a neighbouring wood, were removed a few years ago. Primrose Hill is a farmhold forming a part of the Winston demesnes, and adjoins the parish of Gainford ; it was the property of the Earl of Bridgewater, and now belongs to the representatives of Lord Alford. years. — Here lyeth ye body of John Dowthwaite his grandson who died Iune ye 11th 1707, aged 23 years son of Bernard Dowthwaite of Westholme Gent now Uveing the last heir male of ye famUye owne™ of Westholme above 200 years." PARISH OF GAINFORD. 125 PAEISH OF GAINFOBD. THE once extensive parish of Gainford anciently included the chapelries of Barnard Castle, Whorlton, and Denton, and occupied (with the exception of the intervening parish of Winston) about 18 miles of the north bank of the Tees, between Piercebridge on the south-east and High Shipley on the north-west. Exclusive of the above chapelries, it is bounded by the parish of Winston on the west, by the parish of Staindrop (and chapelry of Ingleton) on the north-west, by the chapelry of St. Helen's Auckland on the north, by the chapelry of Denton and the parish of ConisclifTe on the east, and by the Tees (separating it from the parishes of Manfield and Gilling, in the North Riding of Yorkshire) on the south and south-west. The parish of Gainford, as at present consti tuted, includes the following townships or constableries : — 1, Gainford, including Selaby; 2, Langton; 3, Head lam; 4, part of Cleatlam; 5, Morton-Tynemouth ; 6, Bolam ; 7, Summerhouse; and, 8, Piercebridge. The two latter, though in the parish of Gainford, are in the south-east division of Darlington Ward, and attached to the Darlington Union. GAINFORD. The township of Gainford comprises an area of 2,274 acres. The population, in 1801, was 445; in 1811, 431; in 1821, 500; in 1831, 524; in 1841, 585; and in 1851, 669, of whom 349 were males and 320 females. There were, at that date, 142 inhabited houses, 8 un inhabited, and 4 building. The value of property assessed to the county-rate in 1853 was £3,785 15s. This township, during the year ended March, 1854, contributed to the Teesdale Union £6 10s. Id. for in- maintenance, clothing, and funerals ; £64 10s. for out- relief and lunatics; £37 15s. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges; £1 10s. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c ; £1 Is. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists ; and £6 12s. 9d. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. Towards the total expendi ture, £117 18s. 10d., there were repayments of relief by relations and other receipts amounting to £3. The vaccination fees were 9s. 6d., the registration £1 19s. 6d., and the county-rate paid by the overseers £62 15s. lOd. The net expenditure of the preceding year was £90 14s. 2d. The earliest historical notice of Gainford* occurs in Simeon of Durham's narrative, in which it is stated that Eda, or Edwine, a Northumbrian chief, who had * OriginaUy written Giganford from tke Saxon gegan, to go, and a ford which crossed the Tees there, the remains of which are stiU visible. The name has also been written Geagenforda, Gegainford, Geineforde, Geneford, Gineford, Gayntford, Gaynesford, Gayneford, Gaineford, Geynford, Gainesford, Genford, Gainforthe, Geinford, Gaynforde, and Gaynford. t Mr. Brown, in a recent lecture at the Mechanics' Institution, exchanged his helmet for a cowl, was, on his death in 801, buried in the monastery of Gegenforda. The same authority states that Ecgred (Bishop of Lindis farne 821-845) "gave the church and vill whicn ne had built on the spot which is called Geinforde, with whatever belonged to it from Tees to Wear, to the holy confessor, St. Cuthbert." The appurtenances extended from Deorstreet (Watling Street) on the east to a cer tain mountain on the west, and also included lands on the south side of the Tees, three miles towards the south and six to the west, with the two vills of Ilecliff and Wigecliff which he had built, and Billingham in Hartness. Camden mentions the occupation of these parts by the Danes. f Gainford was one of the places which Bishop Aldune mortgaged to the Earls of Northumberland, and were never restored to the see. It appears probable that the lordship of Gainford had been seized by the Norman Conqueror from a descendant of the earls, as it continued to be indepen dent of the see of Durham. William II. , as has been seen (page 4), granted it and its dependencies to Guy Baliol. In 1293, Agnes de Valencia, widow of Hugh Baliol, held Gainford in dower, and had gallows and infangenetheof, or the privilege of judging thieves taken within her liberty, the chattels of felons convicted in her court, and free warren in all her lands. The subsequent history of Gainford, till the attainder of the Gainford, observes, in reference to the valley of the Tees, near Barnard Castle, " The very name of her hills and valleys are inspir ation to the antiquary, and carry the mind back to the times when in Thorsgill, Wodencroft, Frigasgill, or Fragill, and Baldersdale, the deities of our forefathers received their wonted homage, and when on Baal-hiU, near Barnard Castle, the ancient inhabitants lighted their fires to the Phoenician god." 126 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Earl of Westmoreland in 1569, is identical with that of Barnard Castle, already given. The lands in this township were granted and distri buted in comparatively small freeholds. In 1686, the freeholders were, Sir Richard Sandford, Bart., of Howgill, Westmoreland; Richard Cradocke, Esq., of London; Thomas Cradocke, Esq., counsellor-at-law, Durham; Gilbert Marshall, Esq., of Selaby; Cuthbert Rayne, Gent. ; Henry Eden, Robert Stoddart, John Burrell, John Rayne, Francis Blakiston, and Richard Swainston. The possessions of the Cradocks, with some augmentations, are still held by their descendant, Capt. Christopher Cradock, of Hartforth Hall, York shire. The house belonging to the Edens still bears the inscription, " [16 'IE' 96]." The representative of the Swainstons is John Swainston Goodger, Esq., solicitor. The principal proprietors in the township at present are, the Duke of Cleveland ; John Bowes, Esq. ; Capt. Cradock ; William Surtees Raine, Esq. ; Thomas Smurthwaite, Esq., of Holme House; the re presentatives of the late John Chapman; William Bowman ; Mrs. Capt. Goodger ; and Mrs. Graham. The manorial rights of Gainford were purchased from the crown, about the year 1634, by Sir Henry Vane the elder, and are now possessed by the Duke of Cleveland. The village of Gainford stands nearly equidistant between Darlington and Barnard Castle, or 9 miles from each, and 4 south-east from Staindrop. It occu pies the undulating brow of a hill which slopes gently * John Cade. — This industrious collector and antiquary chose Gainford as a place of residence after his retirement from business. He was born at Darlington in January, 1734, of humble but respect able parents, and received the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of his native town. From school he was sent to the warehouse of a wholesale linen draper in London, where he rose, by honest industry, from the lowest to the highest station, and obtained a share in a branch of the concern at Dublin. Having realized a small but competent fortune (it has been saidby successful smuggling), he retired, about 1775, to Durham, from whence he removed to Gainford, where he devoted the subsequent part of his life, except a few of his last years, to antiquarian researches. These were prin cipally of a topographical character, and were directed to the un defined traces of roads and fortifications, in examining which it was his peculiarity to attribute every thing to the Romans. He traced a Roman road from the mouth of the Tees along the coast to Shields, and another from near Neasham by Great Stainton, Mainsforth, and Old Durham, to Chester -le- Street and Gateshead; "but every hill, natural or artificial, mound or earthwork near his line of march, was to be Roman. The moated house of BeUasis, the mount at Bishopton, and the natural sand-hills at Mainsforth and Acley-heads were aU declared stations." Hutchinson, as Surtees observes, "took a pleasure in ruining poor Jack Cade's castles, and breaking up his roads;'' and the difference in the opinions of these two antiquaries on this subject was the cause of some Ul feeling. Cade's communications on Roman to the Tees, on the opposite side of which the bank rises abruptly, and is overhung with scattered trees and clumps of brushwood. In the western part of the village is one of those open spaces or greens, so charac teristic of this part of the county, and which, while adding much to the general comfort and salubrity of their respective localities, afford suitable rendezvous for the sports of childhood, the recreations of youth, and the relaxations of old age. The subject is thus alluded to by Sir Walter Scott : — " He views sweet Winston's woodland scene, And shares the dance on Gainford green." The pedestal of what appears to have been a market cross, removed from the middle of the green by Vicar Cranke, now lies near the church-yard gate. Around the green the principal houses of the village have been erected ; and a range of respectable dwellings extends along the brow of the hill towards the east. The aspect of the place is considered more that of a minor watering place than of a retired village, and the adjacent scenery is very beautiful. " There is here," says Mr. Walbran, " none of that utter poverty and squalid wretchedness which too often meet the eye in the villages of the north; and, on the whole, few places afford a more comfortable and suitable retreat, either for those who wish for retirement, or who are not inclined to spend their time, or hazard their competency, in commercial pursuits."* Seen from a distance, Gainford forms a pleasing object in a landscape diversified and relieved remains to Dr. Kaye, afterwards dean of Lincoln, and Mr. Gough, are in the Archseologia, vols, viii., ix., x. His pecuUar diffidence and iU health prevented him from becoming a member of the Society of Antiquaries ; but his communications to that learned body were always received by them with respect. Much of his attention was also directed to what has been called Gothic architecture, the modern innovations on which he viewed with the true eye of taste. Kis passion for Ulustrating books is said to have been so strong as to have led to the expansion of his copy of Dugdale's works to no less than a hundred volumes ; and his Ulustrated Camden was a splendid and magnificent exhibition. He assisted Pennant, and in 1788 com municated to Gough several corrections by himseU' and Allan for the counties of Durham and York, in the new edition of Camden ; and in the same year, he favoured Mr. Nicholls with " Some Conjectures on the Formation of the Peat-Mosses in the Mountaineous Parts of the Counties of Durham, Northumberland, Cumberland, &c, in which other analogous Circumstances are briefly mentioned," printed in the Gent. Mag., vol. lix. p. 967. " About sixteen years before his death," says Mr. AUan, " he had a paralytic stroke, which deprived him of the use of his legs, and he was confined to his bed ever after. During that period, he was, nevertheless, always cheerful; and frequently, after dining below with his sister, I have enjoyed two or three hours of sociable conversation with him, over a bottle of wine, by his bed side. Some years before his death, I visited him, and he gave me Drayton's Polyolbion, Harding's Chronicle, Lord Clarendon's His-- PARISH OF GAINFORD. 127 by the winding river, with its steep wood-crowned cliffs on the one bank, and beautiful slopes of verdure on the other.* There are several springs of excellent water in the neighbourhood, from which the village is well supplied. About a quarter of a mile to the west, and on the bank of the Tees, there is a sulphureous spring, resembling in quality and sediment those of Dinsdale and Croft. The county police have a station at Gainford, under the Barnard Castle division ; and there is a post-office receiving house, three inns or public houses, and a few tradesmen and shopkeepers. The Gainford branch of the Darlington Auxiliary Bible Society, in the year ending Midsummer, 1853, contributed £3 8s. 4d. on the purchase account, and £2 6s. 3d. free, and distri buted 14 Bibles and 8 Testaments. The railway between Darlington and Barnard Castle passes within a few yards of Gainford, where a station will be erected. The line crosses the Tees twice near this place ; one of the bridges being about 300 yards to the west, and the other about a mile further. The village contains a respectable boarding school, for the education of young gentlemen, conducted by the Rev. William Bowman, and at which there are three resident tutors. The proprietor has erected a small gasometer for his establishment, but allows parties the use of it at a certain rental. The parochial school will be noticed with the Charities. There is also a girls' school, attended by about 40 children, supported by the subscriptions of Mrs. Macfarlan and others, and a weekly pence from the scholars. Literary Institute and News Room. — Gainford Library, News Room, and Literary Institute was esta blished November 13, 1852. It contains upwards of tory of the RebeUion, and Knight's Life of Erasmus. He told me he had sent aU his illustrated books on antiquities as a piesent to the son of his early benefactor when in trade, who he said was a gentleman of property and education. I have heard of his name ; but were I in clined to mention it, I must dip my pen in gaU or vinegar, or at least in bitter black ink, for the unfeeUng inelegant wretch sold them in Mr. Cade's lifetime. After this, my friend devoted himself entirely to reading sermons and theological tracts, of which he went through an immense mass before his death. His conversation on this subject could not be learned or critical j but it was sensible, lively, and never gloomy. I beUeve, indeed, no man ever waited with firmer patience for his dissolution, or with a stronger reliance on Christianity. He died at Gainford, December 10th, 1806, aged 72, and was buried at Darlington." He was never married ; but a maiden sister, who resided at his house, survived him, and died at Darlington on the 14th of October, 1812, when she was buried by his side in the church-yard. A profile portrait of Cade, probably the only one ever sketched, is at Crook Hall, the residence of the Rev. James Raine, who purchased it at the sale of the effects of Mr. George Ashton, of Durham. It is in crayons, by Sykes, and represents a man of great mildness of «oun- VOL. II. 500 volumes, and the news room is well supplied with the London and provincial papers, together with some of the leading periodicals of the day. There are about 80 members, whose subscriptions vary from 4s. to 10s. per annum. The undertaking having proved highly successful, a new building was agreed to be erected, " suitable to the growing wants of the institute, the neighbourhood, and the times." For this purpose, Richard Hodgson, Esq., of Beverley, presented a piece of ground; his grace the Duke of Cleveland contri buted £20; the Rev. T. Witham, £20; the Rev. G. Macfarlan, £10; Joseph Hawdon, Esq., £10; R. Hodgson, Esq., of London, £5; T. M. and W. Maude, Esqrs., £5 each ; Capt. Cradock, £5 ; G. Piggot, Esq., £5 ; the Rev. W. Webb, £5 ; R. Ableson, Esq., £5 ; W. S. Raine, Esq., £5; John Mitchell, Esq., £5; G. B. Wharton, Esq., £5; Mr. Thomas Raine, £5; Mr. W. Simpson, £5, &c. ; together with the proceeds of a bazaar. The building, which is situated in the western part of the village, consists of a large room for public lectures, a library room, and suitable apartments as a residence for the librarian ; the whole from designs by Mr. T. Gibson, architect, Newcastle. The cost of the erection was upwards of £400. THE CHURCH. The church alluded to in the grant of Ecgred doubtless occupied the site of the present edifice; and several fragments of sculptured crosses, &c, are built up in its walls. Guy Baliol, after acquiring the lordship of Gainford, gave its church two oxgangs of land, and the tenth of the demesne of his manor, with the churches of tenance, with a sensible face, not devoid of character. It has a powdered head, with horizontal curls at the ears, a sky-blue coat, with a low turned down collar, and shirt frills of lace in profusion. William Stephens, an engraver both on stpne and metal, and well known for his peculiar skiU in copying ancient records and inscriptions, was for some time resident in Cambridge ; but having come into possession of a house with a smaU property attached in Gainford, through the death of an uncle, who was cook to the Shuttleworth famUy at Forcet, he removed to this place, where he resided for several years, and where his taste and talents were exercised in his peculiar department. He died at Gainford, and was buried there October 16, 1781. • " The extreme narrowness of the ancient ways,'' says Mr. Langstaffe, " would almost lead to the impression that sidings for the passing of vehicles would be required. There is a smaU lane leading from Gainford to the Tees, the queer nooks of which have been supposed to have answered the same purpose. Popular tradition places a sentry in each in rebeUion time. I confess these assumed sidings were not of the width I expected ; yet in so contracted a lane the smaUest advantage would be of service." T 128 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. Stainton, and of Stokesley in Yorkshire, to the convent of St. Mary at York, for the benefit of the soul of King Henry, Henry's father King William, his mother Queen Matilda, his brother King William, and his son William ; as also for that of his own soul, that of Dionisia his wife, Barnard Baliol his nephew, and of all faithful people deceased. At the close of the grant, he states that the donation was for the good of the souls of his father and mother, and of all his progenitors. Subsequent con firmatory grants were made by other members of the Baliol family ; and the convent would appear thereafter to have enjoyed or delegated the right of presentation to the vicarage. Disputes between the monks and some of the vicars were occasionally referred to the mediation of the Bishops of Durham. After the Dis solution, the living of Gainford, including the great tithes of the whole parish, and the advowson of the vicarage, was granted by the crown to Trinity College, Cambridge; the vicar presenting to the dependent chapelries. The erection of the present church is attributed to the convent of York, about the middle of the 13th century. It is situated at the south-western angle of the village green, and its cemetery is bounded on the south by the Tees, the encroachments of which rendered a considerable outlay necessary, for embankments and other means of security, some years ago. The ground- plan of the church is regular, consisting of a tower, a nave with side aisles, and a chancel. The tower is open to the nave, and rests on three pointed arches ; that to the east has swerved from its perpendicular, and is supported on each side by flying buttresses, which rest on the exterior walls of the aisles. The superstructure is low and finished by a plain parapet, with corner spirets. To the middle of the west front is attached a heavy buttress, inclosing the belfry stairs. There are three bells, two of which are of considerable antiquity : on one of them is inscribed, in narrow Longobardic characters, " f Saynt Cwthbekt saf ws vkowekt;" and on the other, "ft Help Marj qwob Roger of Kyrkeby." (See list of vicars.) The third bell bears the inscription, in Roman characters, " Tho : Swain ston chvhchwarden. Gloria in Altissimtjs Deo. 1715. S.S. Ebor." The tower contains a good clock, on one of its angles. The south entrance to the church is by a porch, once the burial place of the Garths. On the north, the en trance is beneath a plain arch. Including the space under the tower, the nave is 60 feet 3 inches long, and, with its aisles, 39 feet wide. The side-walls are supposed to have been reconstructed about the time of Henry VI., or later, and are supported on the outside by buttresses. The aisles are each formed by pointed arches of unequal span, supported by cylindrical pillars ; the capitals of those adjoining the chancel arch being slightly or namented with flowers. From a mark remaining on the eastern face of the tower, it appears that this part of the building was once surmounted by a clerestory ; but this has been removed, and a sloping roof, covered with Westmoreland slates, extends to the walls of the aisles. The windows appear to have been subjected to several alterations, and are very irregular. The chancel opens from the nave under a plain pointed arch, supported by brackets, beneath which are traces of the masonry on which the beam supporting the rood-left formerly rested. This part of the church is 31 feet 3 inches long, and 16 feet 11 inches broad. The windows on the east are three lancet lights j and there are two of the same character on the south. Those on the north have been closed, in consequence of the erection of a vestry. The leaden roof of the chancel, like that of the nave, has been replaced by oae of slate. The pews in the nave are of the period of Charles IL, though with several injudicious repairs and alterations. A gallery was erected over the north aisle by the late John Walton Elliott, Esq. The church is estimated to contain accommodation for 350 persons-. The font is a plain round basin, supported by a cylindrical shaft, 3. feet 9 inches high. The altar-table is curiously carved. There was a chantry in this church, dedicated to St. Mary. In 1501, Joseph Cocker was incumbent, with an income valued at £2 19s. 4d. John Betson was the last chaplain, and returned his revenue as arising from the site of his house and garden, f&ur cottages, and certain ploughing and meadow lands in Gainford, worth £3 annually; issues from the chantry of the Blessed Virgin, in the castle chapel of Barnard, 10s. ;, from a tenement and lands in Cleatlam, 6s. 8d. ; from a tene ment in Bolam, 3s. 4d. ; from a certain parcel of land called Assilbroke, 12s.; from the king's receiver, a payment of 6s. 8d. ; in all, £4 18s. 8d., with a deduc tion of 9s. lOd. for tenths. In 1553, he was in the receipt of a pension of £4 per annum. There is a rich sepulchral stone in the floor of the chancel, within the altar-rails, sculptured with highly decorated crosses, the chalice, and other ornaments. A fragment of another sculpture lies near it. Several monumental stones and brasses in the church and church-yard record the deaths of various incumbents of the parish, or refer to the burial places of the most PARISH OF GAINFORD. 129 distinguished families in the neighbourhood.* In a grove, by the side of the church-yard, there is a spring still called St. Mary's Well Registers. — Books Nos. 1 and 2 contain registers from 1560 to 1812.f Gainford vicarage is in the deanery of Darlington ; the impropriation and patronage in Trinity College, Cambridge. King's Books, £36 6s. 0^.; Tenths, £3 12s. 7fd. ; Episc proc, 18s.; Archid. proc, 2s.; Synod, and proc, 4s. Dedication to St. Mary. Rectoks. — Bernardus (son of Hugh de BaUol) occ. 1174; Guy de Lucey, 1210; Stephen, circ. 1220; Alexander Nolan, 1228; G. St. Adrian (a cardinal deacon) ; Opicion St. Vitalis (the pope's nephew and chaplain), p. m. St. Adrian. "Vicabs. — WiUiam Roundel, 1261 ;£ Robert de Mortuomari, or * " Mr. Stephens communicated a fragment of an inscription dug up in the green : it was cut under an indented roll, and what was legible is as foUows : . . .aid the cetaje in a very rude letter. Among many nations, the idea of putting into the grave, with the dead, utensils to which the party was much attached, hath prevaUed : in a grave was lately dug up a tobacco stopper, cut in boxwood, tipped with sUver, marked i. t., a hand grasping a bible at the top. In the green were lately discovered, in a gravel pit, many human skulls, but no other bones ; probably the evidence of some dreadful decapitation, in the feudal ages, by the guillotine."- — Hutchinson, vol. iii. p. 223. Mr. Cade mentions a rude-shaped stone coffin, with a circular cavity for the head, and containing a skull and some bones, discovered in digging a grave at Gainford. Part of an antique seal-ring was found in it, containing a green stone or flux, the intaglio a Cupid, with something like a hammer or pick-axe in his hand, raised against a festoon or oUve-branch. Mr. Cade conjectures that this ring belonged to some of the lords of Raby, who might be interred here before the foundation of Stainthorp. About 100 years before the discovery of this coffin, another of a similar shape was found a little below the surface, where that was deposited. " On taking it up, there appeared, for some depth, a fabrication of mortised stone and clay, in every respect resembling those receptacles of mortality at Twyneham." The coffin was afterwards purchased by a publican in the village, who used it as a cooler for his wort ; and after being prostituted to other ignominious purposes, it was observed by Mr. Cade, in a mutilated state, in the shape of a pump trough. t In 1659 — " Courteous Reader, this is to let thee understand that many chUdren were left unrecorded or redgestered. But the reason and cause was this : some would and some would not, being of a fickle condition, as the time was then : this being their end and aim to save a groate from the poor Clarke, so they would rather have them unredgestered. But, now seeing it hath pleased allmighty God of his Love and mercy to send us a king, now it is their design to have them redgestered, who before were unredgestered, as namely," &c. In a private book of Dr. Robert Swift, who was vicar- general and official principal of the diocese of Durham from 1561 to 1677, are the foUowing depositions relative to an unlawful marriage : — "Edward Ward, of Langton near Gainford, husbandman, aged 40 years. — " He saith. that ther is dyvers writing (no doubt the Table of Kindred and Affinity respecting marriages between relations) hang- Mortimer ; William Pickering occ. 1311 ;§ Robert de Mortham (see page 19) ; Robert de Horton, 1349 ; William de Swafeld, 1356, p. m. Horton ; Reginald de Kirkeby, 1362, p. res. Swafeld ; William Semius, occ. 1401 ; Roger de Kirkeby, 1401 ;|| Richard Amall, LL.B. (sub-dean of York, and prebendary of Barnaby, and after of Langtoft), 1412, p. m. Kirkeby ; Anthony de St. Quintin, 1427, p. res. Arnall ; Roger Esyngwald, LL.B., 1428. p. res. St. Quintin ; Richard Drax, 1429, p. res. Esyngwald ; Peter Fryston, 1437, p. res. Drax ; WiUiam Lambert (master of Staindrop CoUege), 1452 ; WUliam Sever (abbot of St. Mary's York, and successively bishop of CarUsle and Durham) ; WiUiam Thompson ; WiUiam Fulthorpe, 1531, p. res. Thompson ; Robert Bennet (a monk of Durham, and prebendary of the 11th stall on the foundation), 1538, p. m. Fulthorpe ; Thomas Segeswick, D.D., 1558, p. m. Bennet ; Richard Eorster, 1559, p. depr. Segeswick ; WiUiam Stevenson, B.D. (preb. of the 9th staU), 1562, p. depr. Forster, for holding two livings, contrary to the act of Henry "VIII. ; Henry Naunton, A.M. (rector of EgglescUffe, 1588, and preb. of the 4th staU), 1575, p. m. Stevenson ; Charles Ferrand, occ. 1582 and 1589 ; John Cradock, A.M. (afterwards D.D.), 1694 ; John Lively, B.D..1T 1628, p. m. Cradock; Henry Greswold, A.M., 1643, p. exp. Lively ; George Sanderson, an intruder ; Henry Greswold, again, inge upon the pUlers of the church of Gainford, but what they ar, or to what effect, he cannott deposse; saing that he and other parishioners doith gyve ther dewties to be taught such matters as he is examined upon, and is nott instruct of any such . " He saith, that he was maried with the said Agnes in Gainford church by the curat Sr Nicholas, about 14 daies next after Christen- mas last past, but not contrary to the lawes of God, as he and she thought. And for the resydew of the article he thinks nowe to be trewe, but not then. Examined whither that he, this deponent, dyd knowe at and before the tyme of their mariadg, that she the said Agnes was, and had bein, his uncle Christofore Ward's wyfe, ye or no, he saith that he knew that to be trew, for she had, and haith yet, fyve chUdren of his the said Christofer's. Examoned upon the danger of their soules, and evyll example, he saith that both he and mayny honest men in that parish thinks that it were a good deid that thei two meght stiU lyve to gyther as they doo, and be no further trobled. f " Augnes Ward, alias Sampton, aged 40 years. " all the Lordship and paroch of Gainford knew howe nighe hir first husband and last husband was of kyn, and yet never found fault with their mariadg, neither when thei wer asked in the church E sondry sonday nor sence — they haith bein likned to gither more anci 2 yere, and y ett never man nor woman found fault — but rather thinks good ther of, bicause she was his own uncle wyf. f i During his incumbency, the BaUols were in the habit oi purchasing the corn tithes of the parish, bond for the payment oi which was given by some of their most wealthy adherents. § Bishop KeUawe proclaimed sentence of excommunication, will candle and bell, against certain sons of iniquity who had molestec and hindered Pickering in the collection of his tithes in Barnard Castli Park and the Forest of Moorewoode. || His wiU, a document of considerable length and interest, has beer inserted in the YVUls and Inventories published by the Surtee; Society. IT Mr. Lively, who was also vicar of Kelloe, was a man of consider able learning. He bequeathed the large sum of £30 to be expende. on his funeral. It is to him that the old distich is applied : — " Here lies John Lively, vicar of KeUoe, He had seven daughters and never a feUow." 130 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. 1661 ;* Edmund Fotherby, A.M., 1662, p. exp. Greswold by the Bar tholomew Act ; Thomas Malet, A.M., 1701, p. m. Fotherby ; James MaUed, B.D., 1721, p. m. Malet ; William Morgan, D.D., 1747, p. m. Mailed; Tobias Heyrick, B.D.,f 1754, p. m, Morgan; John WUson, A.M. (vicar of Catterick), 1782, p. m. Heyrick; Bertraud Russell, B.D., 1792, p. m. Wilson; John Cranke, B.D., 1798, p. m. Russell (Cranke was so subject to fits, that he never preached during his incumbency, except when he read the articles on his induction) ; James Blackburn, A.M. (rector of Romaldkirk, Yorkshire, some time perpetual curate of the donative of Gibside, and lecturer of St. Nicholas', Newcastle), 1816, p. m. Cranke ; George Macfarlan, A.M. 1824, p. m. Blackburn. The corn-tithes of the parish were leased by Trinity College, Cambridge, to the representatives of the late Earl of Strathmore, but are now collected by a local agent, having been commuted for annual payments amounting to £1,891. The vicarage-house adjoins the church-yard on the west. It was chiefly built by the Rev. T. Malet, du ring his incumbency, and has received considerable additions from the present vicar. Its annual value is * Greswold says, in the parish register, that he coUected as many of the scattered leaves of Cradock's old register as had escaped the talons of Sanderson, the intruder's children, taught by their father's example to plunder — harpy like. t Tobias Heykick was the sixth and youngest son of the Rev. Samuel Heyrick, rector of Lodington, Northamptonshire, and was born in 1710. He was vicar of Over, Cambridge, and was a senior feUow of Trinity CoUege, Cambridge, where he was greatly esteemed, and where many pleasant anecdotes, both of him and his elder brother Nathaniel, are stUl recollected. "I was accustomed," says Mr. AUan, in his contribution to Nichol's Literary Anecdotes, "to visit him, with my father, at Gainford, when very young ; and he struck me, at that time, as a most extraordinary character. If I may be permitted to use the expression, he was a remarkable epicure (deditus ventri), though a man of wit and otherwise good manners. I have seen a copy of a note of his, declining to partake of a haunch of venison, apologizing, as a reason, he understood that four were invited ; and as Mr. was one of then, he was sure there would not be more than fat for two! I was once sent with a servant, to carry him a present of smelt, or sparlings as they are caUed here, being the first that had been caught in the river Tees that season. He had dined before I arrived, but received me with attention, and produced plenty of sweetmeats and dried fruits for my entertainment. As I was amusing myself, he opened a door that led from his parlour to the kitchen, and cried out, ' Ellen, fry a dozen !' In about five minutes afterwards, he opened the door again, and said, ' Ellen, make the dozen a score !" He gave me half-a-crown and filled my pockets with good things. When I got home, I related what had passed, and it afforded entertainment to a party my father had to sup with him, at which I was permitted to be present, although I was not conscious how I had been the cause of their merriment." Another gastronomic anecdote, told in the village, relates that Mr. John Eden, of Gainford, one day invited Heyrick to dine with him, but, previous to the appointed time, requested him to caU at bis house, when he afforded him a preliminary gratification by the exhibition of a fine haunch of venison, that was acquiring a proper gusto in the larder. Toby paced round and round the joint, rejoicing in prospective at its forthcoming demolition, while Mi-. Eden was estimated at £50. The gross income was stated in 1835 at £1,020 per annum, subject to permanent pay ments amounting to £252, leaving £768 clear. Since that time, however, the vicarial tithes of the parish have been commuted for rent-charges, amounting, in the whole, to £1,173 10s. 2|d. per annum, of which £540 14s. lOd. arises from the chapelry of Barnard Castle. The measures taken to obtain a more equitable divi sion of the income of the parish have been alluded to at page 21. The Barnard Castle committee, though pointing out the justice of dividing the vicarial tithes in proportion to the population, conceded that this might be taken as an extreme view, and submitted " that the very lowest measure of justice which ought, under any circumstances, to be accorded to them, is that the vicarial rent-charge of £540 I4s. 10d., arising from the chapelry of Barnard Castle, should be appropriated wholly to its own spiritual use;" and they further urged that the discussing who should be invited, and hinted that Wood, the curate of Darlington might be one. " Wood !' no, no," said Toby j "Wood! No. He'll eat it all. We must not have him." Wood' accordingly was not invited ; but, shortly after, he heard of the circumstance, and had not long to wait before he had an opportunity of paying Master Toby in his own coin. One Monday morning, he espied him in DarUngton market, purchasing a pair of soles, which he eyed with uncommon delight, and carefuUy deposited in the pocket of his upper coat. Wood being assured that, according to his usual custom, he would call at his house before he left the town, patiently waited his advent, for the consummation of his joke. On his arrival, he lavished every species of attention on him, and invited him to dinner. Toby, in the contemplation of the deUcacy in his pocket, declined. Wood became stUl more urgent, and induced compUance at last, by the announcement, that a remarkably fine pair of soles was to form part of the entertainment. So he stayed, and was delighted, and at length departed in peace to his vicarage at Gainford. He had not long been ensconced in his parlour, before he cried out, " Lucy, take those soles out of my coat pocket." Lucy forthwith duly searched the coat, but to no purpose, and reported the same. " Child, you're mistaken," cried he ; " go again." A " non inventus" was again returned to the inquisition ; and his own personal investigation confirming the dread certainty that they had vanished, he very justly exclaimed, " Oh, that Wood ! that Wood! he has done me!" His sister, Miss Elizabeth Heyrick, resided with him. "He delighted in tearing her before company ; and when she came into the room in which her morning callers were waiting for her, dressed out in sUks and satins, be soon afterwards followed, and then began the fun, which ended in his sister's leaving the room in high dis pleasure ; and then old Toby would, in half joke and half earnest, shout out, ' There she goes— a duchess ! a duchess !' " But Heyrick was not a mere gourmand or heartless man of pleasure or wit. His learning and benevolence were long gratefuUy remembered and acknowledged ; and he was generally classed with that good old race of pastors whose memory continues to linger in the affections of their parishioners. He always resided at his benefice, and at length died on the 30th of March, 1782. The inscription on his tomb-stone in the church-yard, and a tablet in the church, are his memorials. PARISH OF GAINFORD. 131 time had arrived for erecting the chapelry into an inde pendent vicarage. After some further correspondence, conducted, on the part of the committee, by Mr. Rich ardson, solicitor, of Barnard Castle, a scheme proposed by the Master and Fellows of Trinity College was received by that gentleman in May, 1850. It provided " that the said chapelry of Barnard Castle should be forthwith separated from the vicarage and parish church of Gainford, and be constituted a separate parish for ecclesiastical purposes, and a perpetual curacy and benefice," subject to the same ecclesiastical jurisdiction as Gainford, and with its own peculiar churchwardens. The pecuniary arrangement proposed was as follows : — " That from and after the next avoidance of the said vicarage and parish church of Gainford (but subject to the proviso next hereinafter contained) aU so much and such part of the tithe rent charges, or other payments, or compositions for or in Ueu of tithes belonging to the said vicarage of Gainford, as arise and accrue or are payable within or in respect of the said chapelry of Barnard Castle, (and now amounting to the annual sum of £540 14s. lOd. or thereabouts,) shaU belong and be attached to the said proposed separate benefice of Barnard Castle for ever, and be held, received, and enjoyed by the incumbent thereof for the time being accordingly. Provided, never theless, that in the event of any vacancy or vacancies happening in the said vicarage of Gainford, by the death, removal, or other avoid ance of the present or any succeeding vicar thereof, before any vacancy shaU happen in the said benefice of Barnard Castle, by the death, removal, or other avoidance of the present incumbent thereof, then and until such vacancy shall happen in the said last-mentioned benefice, aU the aforesaid tithe Tent charge or rent charges of the 6aid chapelry of Barnard Castle, shall belong and be attached to the said vicarage of Gainford and perpetual curacy of Barnard Castle, in the shares and proportions foUowing ; (that is to say) three undivided fifth parts or shares thereof to the said vicarage ; and two undivided fifth parts or shares thereof to the said perpetual curacy, and shall be held and enjoyed by the incumbents of the said benefices for the time being accordingly. "That when and so soon as under the provisions hereinbefore con tained the whole of the tithe rent charge or charges of the said chapelry of Barnard Castle shaU become absolutely attached to the said said perpetual curacy of Barnard Castle, the payment of the annual sum of £7 10s.( now made by the Vicar of Gainford to the perpetual curacy of Barnard Castle shaU cease, and the said vicarage and the incumbent thereof shaU thenceforth be exonerated an d released from the same annual sum ; but without prejudice to any arrears thereof which may be then due, or to the right of the incumbent of the said chapelry for the time being, or his representatives, to receive a pro portionate part of the said annual sum up to the time of such dis charge.'' The committee having claimed the whole portion of the tithe rent-charge, immediately on the next avoidance of the parish of Gainford, the masters and seniors of the college replied that not having appointed the Rev. G. Dugard to the living of Barnard Castle, and that appointment not having conduced in any way to a vacancy in one of their followships, they considered they had acted liberally in making provision for an increase of £216 to the living before such an advantage might accrue to them. Eventually, under the advice of the Duke of Cleveland, John Bowes, Esq., and other influential land-owners, the committee consented, though reluctantly, to the proposed arrangement, which was shortly after confirmed by an order in council. CHAPELS. Roman Catholic Chapel. — Through the liberality of the Rev. T. Witham, of Lartington Hall, aided by partial assistance from other parties, the foundation of a new Catholic church and presbytery was laid at Gain ford on the 2nd of March, 1854 ; and it was completed in the following year. The church is a Gothic erection, of the early English style of architecture, capable of holding about 300 people, and stands east and west, with a south porch. The side walls are buttressed and pierced with plain lancet windows; the east end having a triplet, and the west end two lancets, all surmounted with hood mouldings, terminating in carved heads and flowers. The west end is also surmounted by a small belfry; and floriated crosses form the terminations of the east end and porch gables. The whole of the win dows are filled with stained glass; the side windows being enriched principally with armorial bearings, and the centre light of the eastern triplet containing a figure of Christ ascending ; whilst the lights on each side of it are filled in with figures of St. Thomas of Aquin, the learned doctor of the Catholic church, and St. Osmund Martyr, to whom the chapel is dedicated. These are the productions of Messrs. John and Joseph Gibson, of Newcastle. The chapel has a high-pitched roof of open timber, illuminated, in gold and colours, with texts of scripture running along the ribs and principals, the work of Mr. Henderson, church decorator. A corridor connects the chapel with the presbytery, which is a building in a later style of architecture. The whole has been built from the designs of Mr. T. Gib son, architect, Newcastle. Independent Chapel. — This place of worship was opened on New-year's day, 1850. It is of stone, in the early English style, and is lighted on the sides by eight lancet-headed windows, and at the south end by two of a similar kind, and a large three-lighted window above the door. The weathering of the gables, finials, and label moulds are very neat. The roof is much elevated and strong : the construction, however, gives 132 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. it a light and airy appearance : the rafters are framed together with a collar beam, under which braces and brackets are fixed, forming a semicircle, and terminat ing in strong moulded stone corbels. The side walls and angles are supported by buttresses of hewn stone, which give a strong and substantial appearance to the building. The pulpit is part of an octagon, with Gothic-headed panels, and moulded framing ; and the chapel contains an organ. Instead of pews, the body of the chapel is fitted up with forms, having sloping backs, which contribute much to the comfort of the occupants, and will seat about 130 persons, but are so arranged that 70 additional sittings may be provided at a trifling outlay. The building, which cost £350, is warmed by hot water, and fitted up with gas. Being altogether different from any previous erection in the neighbourhood, ,it forms a pleasing object, and is easily accessible from the neighbouring villages. The resident minister of Staindrop officiates in the chapel. Wesleyan Methodist Chapel. — The Wesleyans have a chapel in Gainford, erected in 1834, and capable of accommodating 150 persons. CHARITIES. School. — Henry Greswold, vicar of Gainford, who for many years gave an annual donation of £6 to the village school, on October 12, 1691, gave £100 to John Raine, Henry Eden, Cuthbert Swainston, and Cuthbert Raine, to be laid out in the purchase of lands or an annuity, the proceeds to be paid towards a yearly salary for the schoolmaster, for teaching the poor children of the parish. In January, 1804, the representatives of two of the obligees paid in £25 each, which, together with £39 10s. 6d., an ancient poor stock, was laid out in the purchase of £156 0s. 3d. three per cent, consols, * The stock of money belonging to the poor of the parish of Gain ford, April 16, 1664, was as follows :— £5 given by Richard Garth, of Langton, and £5 by Thomas Morton, of Darlington, in the hands of George Sanderson, of Forcet. £5 given by William Garth, of Headlam, in the hands of Richard Walbank, of Gainford, and Ralph Carter, of Piercebridge; the interest to be distributed to necessitous widows. £5 given by Margaret Natters, of Bolam, in the hands of Francis Sotheran, of Cleatlam. £2 given by the Rev. John Lively, vicar of Gainford, in the hands of Lancelot Shawter, of Summerhouse. £3 given by Thomas Fawdon, of Piercebridge, 10s. for 10 years (and he was buried March 14, 1659). £10 left by Henry Carter, of Gainford, in the hands of Robert Smith, of Hurworth, weaver. £10 given by John Stoddert, of Gainford, in the hands of Robert Stoddert, brother of the deceased, who promised to pay £2 to the poor, " for his years," every Easter-Tuesday. £5 given by John Eden, of Gainford, in the hands of Ann Eden, his widow. £10 given by John Garth, in the hands of John BurreU, of Gainford. £5 given by Mrs. EUzabeth Garth, of Headlam, April 5, 1670. £5 given by in the names of the Earl of Darlington and R. E. D. Shafto, Esq. The remaining £50 had been previously paid up, and invested on mortgage of the tolls of the turnpike road leading from Barnard Castle to Stockton, producing £2 10s. interest yearly. The schoolmaster receives this sum, and £2 16s. 2d. as his proportion of the dividends from the above stock, for which he in structs, in reading, writing, and accounts, six children recommended by the churchwardens, from any part of the parish, exclusively of the chapelry of Barnard Cas tle. The village school is a substantial building of considerable age, and stands near the entrance of the church-yard. It is attended by from 30 to 40 boys, who pay a weekly pence. Poor Stock. — Some person unknown, in 1639, gave to the poor of Gainford £20 ; Robert BurreU, in 1665, £18 13s. 9d.; and Mary Swainston, in 1738, £2. The poor stock, invested as above stated, is supposed to have arisen from these donations; and a moiety of £1 17s. 4d., from the dividends thereof, is given away at Christmas and Easter amongst the poor of the parish (except those of Barnard Castle), one-fourth being appropriated to each quarter, in small sums of 6d. to Is. each. — Four other sums of money, amounting to £26, were lent out; but no interest has been paid on them for many years.* Gainford Hall. — A castle at Gainford, built by Bishop Beck, is mentioned in Grey's Notes ; but there are no remains, or even tradition of a castle, though it is probable that some tower or other building might be attached to the lordship. The present Hall, supposed to occupy the site of a previous " manor place," stands at the west end of the village. Its erection was com menced by Vicar Cradock,f but it appears never to WUliam Garth, of Headlam, December 22, 1670, witness his own hand. " WUliam Mann, of Piercebridge, by wUl, dated March 26, 1674, gave 10s. to the poor of the parish of Gainford, to be distributed on St. Thomas's day, for ever," t The Rev. John Cradock. — A descent has been claimed for the Cradocks from Caradoc, the Caractacus of the Romans, who was defeated at a mountain near Shrewsbury, caUed Caer Caradoc. The family was diffused through several counties in England, and even in Britany, where, at a viUage caUed Caradoc, their crest has been dis covered. The Rev. John Cradock, named in the text (from whose character seems to have been derived the saying, " .4s cunning as a crafty Cradock"), was the youngest son of John Cradock, of New Houses, in Baldersdale. On his appointment to the vicarage of Gainford, he purchased property in the parish, and erected Gainford Hall. In 1619, he was appointed archdeacon of Northumberland, which office he resigned on the 6th of August in that year, on being appointed the bishop's spiritual chancellor and vicar general. He was, at the same tune, collated to the prebend of the 5th stall. On the 3rd ofMay, PARISH OF GAINFORD. 133 have been finished. Its appearance at the ends is that of three tall gable-ended houses joined together. Over the doorway in the north front, which is very plain, are the arms and name of John Cradock, 1600, and the initials I. C, M. C, and B. C. The south entrance is highly decorated with fluted pilasters and other orna ments. The windows are square and mullioned. Several of the rooms are wainscotted ; and one, in the lower story, has a stuccoed cornice of flowers and fruits. The staircase is unfinished. An old stone wall sur rounds the house, and incloses the space formerly occupied, or intended to be so, by gardens and orchards. A circular turretted dove-cot stands in the eastern portion, where there it also a deep well. The hall is the property of Capt. Cradock, and is occupied by Mr. Thomas Raine* Selabt. — The Brackenburys of Burn Hallf (see vol. i., p. 382) appear to have first acquired pos sessions in this part of the county by the marriage of Nicholas, heir male of the family, with Agnes, the heiress of Denton. Sir Robert Brackenbury, whose name is familiar to the readers of Shakspeare, was pro prietor of Selaby. He was the second son of Thomas Brackenbury, of Denton, and was Lieutenant of the Tower during the whole of the reign of Richard III.,+ 1624, Sir H. Anderson, of HasweU, M.P. for Newcastle, presented v. petition to the House of Commons accusing Cradock of extortion in the discharge of his office. On the 22nd of the month, the Committee for Courts of Justice reported that he, " being a high commissioner for Durham, a justice of peace, and a chanceUor, was found to be a great offender in aU these— confounding their several jurisdictions, and making one to help the other. That on the sequestration of one Allen's goods, worth £1,000, it was granted to two strangers, who ransacked the house, and seized upon divers bags, during the funeral sermon. On the wiU being found, and one Hawden executor, pro- probate was refused, and a second sequestration granted ; when Cradock, in his capacity of justice of peace, broke open the house, and after ransacking it, offered an oath, ex officio, to the executor, and upon that asked him what he had done with the bags of money. New sequestrators were then appointed — the chanceUor's man being summoner. These eat up aU the provisions in the house, took Haw- don and sent him to gaol, whence he could not be released until 20 pieces were given, and a fine of £50 paid to the Bishop of Durham. AU which was done out of any session, at the cost of £6 in fees, and no act of sequestration made." Other offences were also stated ; and the Committee gave it as their opinion that this man deserved greater punishment than Lambe, another offender of the same class. What the decision of the house was does not appear ; but his chapter do not appear to have attached any importance to the proceedings, a s they shortly after presented him to the vicarage of Woodhorn. For his death, see vol. i., p. 256. His son, Sir Joseph Cradock, Knt., LL.D., some time of Harperley, was commissary of the archdeaconry of Richmond, and died in 1686, aged 81. Thomas Cradock, his son, was a barrister-at-law, attorney-general to Bishop Cosins, and M.P. for Richmond. He died in 1689, when the entaUed estates descended to whom he appears to have been faithfully attached, and died with him on Bosworth Field. His name is still applied to one of the towers of his royal master's fortress of Barnard Castle. After the defeat and death of Richard, an inquisition of the forfeited estates of himself and adherents was held, on which it appeared that, with the exception of a small property in Darling ton belonging to the fallen king, Selaby was the only estate in the county of Durham owned by any of his friends. This being entailed, and Sir Robert having left issue two daughters only, it passed to his nephew, Richard, fifth son of Anthony Brackenbury, of Selaby, Gent., bailiff of Gainford. He was gentleman usher to Queen Elizabeth, and frequently employed in the cere monies, receptions, and embassies which took place during her reign. Selaby became the property of Gilbert Marshall, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Gent, (who had married Agnes, daughter and coheiress of Cuthbert Brackenbury), by purchase from John Brackenbury, of Gainford, in 1657. His granddaughter, Anne, mar ried, in 1702, Richard Freeman, Esq., of Batsford, Gloucestershire, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, whose descendants by his first wife sold Selaby to the Earl of Darlington ; and it now belongs to the Duke of Cleve land. Selaby Hall is beautifully situated about half a mile to his nephew, Richard Cradock, whose great grandson, Marmaduke Cradock, sold Harperley to George Pearson, Esq. His descendant, Capt. Christopher Cradock, is the present representative of the famUy. * Mr. Raine is weU known as an agriculturist and a first class cattle breeder on the banks of the Tees; and amongst the various prizes awarded to him is a sUver cup, with a suitable inscription, presented by Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. f A tradition states that Perse Brackenbury came in with the Conqueror, had a grant of Burn Hall, and married the heiress of Robert de Mervayle, of Selaby. Of him, and in aUusion to the famUy crest, an old rhyme says, " The black Uon under the oken tree Made the Normans fight and the Saxons flee." Robert, son of WiUiam de Brackenbury, of Great Burne, was appointed, with 30 others, February 4, 1 342, to array all the defensible men in Darlington Ward to oppose the Scots. I According to Shakspeare, he had held the office in the previous reign of Edward IV. In the tragedy of Richard III., his principal characteristic appears to be a prudent desire to avoid discussion on matters not immediately connected with his duty ; as, " With this, my lord, myself have nought to do ;" and when the vUlains, sent to the Tower to murder Clarence, show to Brackenbury their warrant for admission, he quietly remarks — "I am, in this, commanded to deliver The noble duke of Clarence to your hands. I wiU not reason what is meant hereby, Because I wUl be guiltless of.the meaning. Here are the keys ; — there sits the duke, asleep." 134 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. north from the Tees ; and the estate, which contains 750 acres, is well wooded. Selaby was for many years occupied by the Hon. Frederick Vane, second son of the first Earl of Darlington, and afterwards by Richard Bell, Esq. It has since been the residence of Jacob Maude, Esq., and more recently of the late Thomas M. Maude, Esq., who died at Barnard Castle, March 2, 1855, when on duty with the Durham Militia. Alwent, a little to the south-west of Selaby, and containing about 310 acres, anciently gave name to a local family. John de Alwent confessed before Bishop Kellaw that he had committed adultery with Agnes de Raby, and Annabella de Durham, and also failed to prove that he had not committed the like offence with Christiana Clergis, Annabella de Castle Barnard, and Emma le Aumbeleur. The prelate mitigated the sen tence somewhat in consequence of the station in life of the offender ; nevertheless he was, clad only in linen, to be whipped round his parish church of Gainford on six several Sundays and festivals, and also round the market-place at Darlington on six several Mondays, during that part of the day when it should be most thronged. By mandate, dated at Stockton on the 6th of August, 1313, the vicar of Gainford was directed, under pain of the major excommunication, to monish publicly the said John to appear, and to see that he did appear on the succeeding Sunday in the church-yard and so forth, from the one day to the other, until the expiration of the term : and it was provided that, if he did not submit himself, he should be excommunicated throughout the whole archdeaconry of Durham, and shunned by his fellows as excommunicated until he should conform and obtain grace and favour. The * This gentleman had a horse caUed Old Drummer, which had been wounded in the neck by a bullet at the battle of Sheriff-Moor in 1715, and died in 1753, at the age of 45. His remains were buried near the Tees, where a Latin inscription on a wooden tablet, now somewhat mutUated, is affixed to a tree, and records his name and good qualities. f De. Sherwood. — Thomas Sherwood, Esq., M.D., besides the ordinary routine of professional education, applied himself with ardour, during the early years of his Ufe, to the study of such authors as enabled him to combine theory and practice in perfection, and by which he graduaUy acquired that confidence in himself which was through Ufe his characteristic, and by which he was enabled instinct ively, as it were, to recognise latent disease, and to administerpromptly either to its prevention or its cure. For 30 years he engaged himself, with zeal and abUity rarely surpassed, in the active duties of his profession. In cases of fracture of the skull, or natural derangement of the head, he was eminently successful. From circumstances, his classical education was Umited ; though in after life he evinced an amount of knowledge and taste in polite and elegant literature with vicar was also desired to return, about the Feast of St. Cuthbert, an account of what had been done, and whether the culprit had been in any wise disobedient and refractory. Alwent passed at an early period to the Nevilles. After the attainder, it was purchased by Richard Brackenbury, Esq. ; and a portion of it subsequently passed from the Marshalls to a family named Thompson, whose descendants, in 1728, sold it to Ralph Hodgson, Gent., of Barnard Castle. Another portion came into the possession of the Metcalfes, who sold it in 1636 to John Witham, Esq., of Cliffe. From his descendants it passed, in 1699, to Thomas Maire, Esq., of Hardwick, who, in 1716, conveyed it for £850 to Ralph Hodgson, Gent. A part of Alwent was sold by the Hodgsons, in 1753, to George Bowes, Esq., and is now held by the trustees of the late Earl of Strathmore ; the remainder, belonging to the representatives of the late Ralph Hodgson, Esq., was offered for sale in 1837; when it was described as a farm house with 188 acres of land; a water corn-mill, with a house, a garden, and 8 acres of land; and a close containing 5 acres. It was pur chased by the late Mr. John Chapman, of Headlam, and is now held by his representatives. Snow Hall, about a mile east from Gainford, was for some generations the property of the Raines, of whom Richard, born in 1622, was first named of Snow Hall. Edward Raine, who died in 1758, left the estate to his nephew, Timothy Wright ;* and the latter be queathed all his property to Richard Sherwood, sur geon, of Staindrop, father of Thomas Sherwood, Esq., M.D.,f whose son, Christopher Sherwood, Esq., is the present proprietor. which few could compete. . The history, poetry, and biography of his own county, also, occupied a considerable share of his attention ; and Surtees, in the first volume of his History, p. 10, speaks of him as one " without the early and valued assistance of whom that work would never have been undertaken." It is sad to add, however, that the latter days of Dr. Sherwood were clouded by misfortunes. The perfidy of friends has been mentioned as bearing heavily upon him ; but it was his domestic bereavements which most powerfully affected him, and finally led to the painful catastrophe which closed his existence. Raxph Shehwood, a younger son of the doctor, was born April 3, 1798, and received a Uberal education at Witton-le-Wear. He was destined for the medical profession ; and with this view he studied for a while in Loudon, and was afterwards removed to Edinburgh, where he studied anatomy under James WUson, Esq., at St. George's Hospital. Here his quickness and talent, his great attention to anatomical and surgical pursuits, and the accuracy of his pencil and pen in sketching off-hand, in the hospitals to which he had access, those various morbid and other appearances produced by nature or the hand of the operator, quickly gained for him the notice and approbation of those best qualified to appreciate his abilities. PARISH OF GAINFORD. 135 East or Low Greystone, a little to the north, was formerly a part of the Snow Hall estate, but was sold, in 1757, to Robert Elliott, of Middleton-in-Teesdale, from whose grandson it passed to the Raines. It was purchased by Dr. Sherwood, in 1811, for £3,150. By marriage with Mary, his youngest and only surviving daughter, it became the property of William Surtees Raine, Esq. Greystone Hall belongs to Mr. Robert Elliott, a descendant of the family just named, who resides on the estate. Field House, an adjoining property, was sold by the Burrels, to Francis Holmes, of Darlington, and by him to John Jones, gardener at Raby. In 1825, Dr. Sher wood purchased it from the Rev. John Jones ThornhiU, vicar of Staindrop, for £4,100. Dyons, anciently a village, but now a farm of about 200 acres, was named with Summerhouse in ancient charters. It passed from the Alwents to the Hiltons, who held it for several generations. Afterwards, it passed successively to the Honeywoods and the Baileys of Chillingham, Northumberland, and is now the pro perty of the Duke of Cleveland. Gainford Geeat Wood, about a mile north-west from the village, was one of the baronial appendages to the honour of Gainford and Barnard Castle. Whilst vested in the crown after the attainder, the timber was cut down ; and a second growth was felled in the early part of the 18th century. The wood, in its present state, presents a dark, regular, and monotonous mass, Whilst in Edinburgh, he became possessed of five very amusing letters written by Mr. Ritson to Mr. Laing, which, with a portrait of their author etched by himself, he communicated to Mr. Nicholls, who inserted them in the third volume of " Literary Illustrations of the Eighteenth Century," p. 775, &c. A strong predUection for the stage, how ever, acquired whilst in London, now received an additional stimulus from an acquaintance with Mr. Yates (afterwards of the Adelphi Theatre, London), Mr. J. Russell, and other eminent per formers ; and an unfortunate difference having occurred between himself and his father relative to his expensive habits, he made his debut at York, in July, 1818, in the character of Dandle Dinmont in the opera of Guy Mannering. "Under the assumed name of Sherwin, he continued to perform with the York company, sustaining the countrymen, Scotchmen, and saUors with success. It is said that at this time he was visited by an uncle, a physician, who had returned from the East Indies with an independent fortune, and who, after expostulating with him on the profession he had chosen, offered to be at the expence of finishing his medical education, and sending him out to the same situation which he himself had occupied. The reply of Ralph was, " It is my father's duty to do all this for me ; and I wUl not receive the obligation from any other person." In the Lichfield, Birmingham, and Brighton Theatres, he endured all the vicissitudes and privations of a country actor's life, wearied of which, he at length sought and obtained his father's forgiveness, and was received under the paternal roof. Soon after, however, the celebrated VOL. II. occupying about 100 acres of somewhat swampy ground, tangled with brushwood, and affords a secure retreat for foxes and other animals. It is the property of the Duke of Cleveland. LANGTON. The township of Langton contains 1,061 acres ; and, in 1853, the property was valued for the county-rate at £1,175 6s. 4d. The population, at the several returns, was 78, 65, 90, 107, 99, and 95, of which latter num ber 52 were males and 43 females. In 1851, there were 18 inhabited houses and 1 uninhabited. The Teesdale Union received from the township of Langton, for the year ended March, 1854, £2 2s. for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals ; £5 lis. 6d. for out-relief and lunatics; £9 18s. 3d. for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges ; 14s. for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 7s. 6d. for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists ; and £1 6s. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c. The total sum contributed to the town ship, £19 19s. 3d., was £3 16s. 8d. more than that of the preceding year. The charge for registration was 8s. 6d. ; and the overseers paid £19 lis. 8d. to the county-rate. The hamlet of Langton is situated 2 miles north from Gainford, and 3 east-by-south from Staindrop. Langa- dun was one of the unrestored villages resigned to the Earls of Northumberland by Bishop Aldhune, and comedian, Emery, died ; and an observation once uttered by him at Brighton, " When I am gone, Ralph, of all the actors I know, is most likely to supply my place," having dwelt on the mind of the young man, he once more abruptly left his father's house, and repaired to London. After some difficulty, the doors of Drury were opened to him, through the mediation of Mr. Oxberry ; and he appeared on February 14, 1823, in his favourite character of Dandie Dinmont ; the result being an immediate engagement for three years, at £7, £8, and £9 per week. Here he continued to represent the characters in which his great predecessor had acquired his fame ; but his debUitated constitution never recovered the effects of sleeping in a damp bed at Cambridge. In the mean while, Elizabeth Sarah Sherwood, the eldest sister of Ralph, who was laid on a lingering death-bed, earnestly besought her father, as a last request, to be reconciled to Ralph, which, after some hesitation, he promised ; and his son was suffered to come home to die. The daughter expired on the 25th of October, 1829, aged 22. The bereaved parent, overwhelmed by accumulated misfortunes, spent his time in gazing vacantly on a portrait of his son in one of his characters, or in talking incoherently of his daughter. The mind of Dr. Sherwood at length gave way, and his body was found in the Tees near his own house, Feb. 28, 1830, and interred in the family burial-place in Staindrop church-yard. At the time of his decease he was in the 60th year of his age. U 136 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. afterwards belonged to the Nevilles.* It is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland. Langton Grange was for some years occupied by the dowager Countess of Darlington, afterwards by Captain Watts, R.N.,f and is now the residence of Archbold Cochrane, Esq. HEADLAM. This township comprises an area of 780 acres. The population, in 1801, was 89; in 1811, 175; in 1821, * In Dr. Swift's private book, already quoted (1561-1577), the following depositions occur, relative to a breach of the Sabbath by Thomas Betson and John Fowler, of Langton : — " Cuthbert Potter, of Lankton, husbandman, aged 50 years. " He saith that the said Betson and Fowler dyd use ther bodyly labour with ther beasts in harrawinge and sawinge upon a Sondaye, about Michaelmas last past, against the commandements of God and the lawes of hoUy churche. Examined upon what day of the moneth neisit deponere. Examined what maner of grain yt was that the said Betson and Fowler dyd sawe, he saith wheit. Examined what tyme of the said (Sondaye) that they dyd harowe and sawe, he saith airly, bifore none, for this examinate sawe them bothe that daye at the ser vice in Gainfurth church, at the beginninge of the morning praier. Examined whether any moo of the said parish dyd so lykewise, or no, he saith none, to this examinate's knowledg, saing that ther was yere enowgh, and that they might weU eneugh have taried unto the Mon day and Tewsday next after, as this examinate and many other dyd. f " Thomas Stoddert, of Headlham, yoman, alias husbandman, aged about 50 years. " They neyded not so do but upon folish oversight, for not only in Langton, but also in many other townes in that parish, many had plewed upon the Setterday next byfore besyd those 2, and sufferde the sawinge to the weke after, for ther was tyme and yere eneugh, saing he thinks y' was not godly doon of them, f" The foUowing is the "confession or declaration to be maid by Thomas Betson and John Fowler, in the parishe Churche of Gayne- furth :— "Derely beloved, Althoughe it be one of the ehefest of Godd's comanndements when he saythe thus, 'Remember that thowe kepe holy the Saboth daie ; sex daie shaU thou labor, and doe aU that thou haist to doe ; but the seventh daie is the Saboth, or ristinge daie, of the Lorde thy God ; in it thou shalt doe no maner of worke, thou and thy son, thy doughter, thy man servant and thy maide servante, thy cattell and thy stranngers that is within thy gaits ; for in sex dayes the Lord maide heaven and earthe, the sea and all that in them is, and rested the seventh daie ; wherfore the Lorde blessed the seventh daie and hallowed it,' yet we, Thomas B. and J. F., forgettinge our obediente dewties to the lawe of God aforesaid, and to the Quene's Majestie's ecclesiasticall lawes of this realme, have of late prophaned, unhalowed, and, as muche as in us lyeth, dishonered Godd's holly saboth daie, which daie is appointed emongest all Christian men to prayse God for his benefites, to aske those things that be nedefull, at Godd's hands, and to doe other works acceptable in Godd's sight, [not] gyvinge our selves to worke unlawfull, servile, and bodyly labors of sawinge, harowinge, without any urgent necessytye, in which doings as we have offended the lawes of God and the Quene, to our reprooche and your evill example, so we humbly here before you all acknowledge our selves to be sory for that and all our misdeds and offences, besechinge God to turne this our 232; in 1831, in consequence of the removal of a boarding school, it had declined to 109; in 1841, it was 117; and in 1851, 129, of whom 61 were males and 68 females, inhabiting 20 houses. There were also 2 houses building. The value of property assessed for the county- rate in 1853 was £1,104 0s. 6d. During the year ended March, 1854, the township of Headlam contributed to the Teesdale Union £1 14s. for in-maintenance, clothing, and funerals ; £11 6s. for out- relief and lunatics ; £7 13s. 6d. for irremoveable poor, punyshement as well to our amendement as your good example. In testimony wherof we pray you aU to Ufte up your harts and voices with us to our Heavenly Father, in the name of his deare son Jesus Crist, sayne, ' Our Father, which art in heaven,' &c." t Mks. Watts (Miss Jane Waldie). — Mrs. Watts was the daughter of George Waldie, Esq., of Hendersyde Park, Roxburghshire, and of Forth House, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Jane, the youngest of five children, was born in 1792. From earUest childhood, her quickness of inteUect and original talent were remarkable. She was in infancy passionately fond of reading ; and, when only five years of age, had made considerable progress in the science of astronomy. The- first five summers of her life were passed at the sea-side, in the vUlage of Tynemouth, where she took great delight in wandering about the Gothic and mouldering cloisters of the ruined abbey. She did not go through any regular system of education, but was a day-scholar at a boarding school in Newcastle during the winter months, until she was fifteen years of age, when she was sent, though for six months only, to a boarding school in Edinburgh, kept by Miss Playfair, sister to the celebrated professor ; and that learned student, during the short time Miss Waldie was in his sister's seminary, discerned the great powers of her bright and original mind ; and both at that period, and afterwards, when he met with her in Italy, Professor Playfair honoured her with his marked notice and approbation. Miss Waldie's genius for painting manifested itself in infancy. Unaided by teachers, uninduced by example, no sooner could her little fingers grasp the pencil than she eagerly attempted to delineate the trees, cottages, and other rural objects which surrounded her when residing in the country. When quite a chUd, she pored for hours over an old quarto volume on perspective, the only work on any branch of art which her father's Ubrary contained. In sketching from nature, she possessed unrivalled and incredible facility. Often, in the romantic regions of Italy or Switzerland, and whUe the car riage rolled along, or the boat glided swU'tly over the blue bosom of the lake, her rapid pencil, with a few master strokes, would delineate the features of scenes, which, when afterwards painted in the glowing hues of nature, were recognized and admired by all ; especiaUy by those artists who, with every advantage of time and instruction, had themselves depicted the same subjects. The paintings she occasionally sent to the Royal Academy and British Gallery, and which always appeared without her name, were invariably distinguished and ad mired by the most eminent judges of art, for their beauty of composition, fine tone of colouring, truth to nature, and feeh'ng and expression. Her characteristic modesty led her to attribute the high encomiums she received to flattery or good nature ; and she resolved, by an ingenious experiment, to ascertain their real estima tion. Accordingly, she sent a painting for actual sale to the British Gallery, where it would necessarily stand in competition with those of the best British artists ; but a member of her own family, unwilling that the picture should be irrecoverably disposed of, privately desired PARISH OF GAINFORD. 137 salaries, and other common charges ; £1 for constable and costs before magistrates, &c. ; 12s. 6d. for law costs, re vising barrister, and jury lists; and £1 18s. for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, &c, being a total of £24 4s., which was £3 12s. 5d. more than the expenditure of the preceding year. The cost of registration was 6s. lOd. ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £18 9s. Id. Headlam, at a very early period, gave name to a resident family; and in 1309, Simon, brother of Peter and Galfrid Russell (the latter senechal of Durham), also assumed the name of Hedlam. The estate itself was included in the barony of Gainford; and, in 1304, Agnes, widow of Hugh Baliol, held it in dower. An inquisition taken after the attainder of John Baliol, returned the rents of the free tenants, with the duty paid for license to brew ale, at 62s. Another in quisition, taken on the death of Guy, Earl of Warwick, by Simon de Hedlam and other jurors, shewed that the annual rents of the freeholders had increased to 65s. 3Jd. ; the return from the bondholders, and the license to brew, produced the large sum of £13 6s. llgd. ; certain services were valued at 4s. 3d., save reprisals ; and a forge only produced 6d. Headlam formed part of the forfeited estates of the Earl of Westmoreland. The property was afterwards much divided. The Garths held an estate for several generations ; and the Lancasters, of Socbridge, Westmoreland, acquired pro perty in the 16th century, which was afterwards sold to the Birkbecks, a Cumberland family. Anne, daughter of Henry Brackenbury of Selaby, and widow of Chris- the keeper of the gaUery, to whom it was left to fix the price, to put upon it nearly double the sum usuaUy demanded for landscapes of a similar kind. Yet, almost at the opening of the exhibition, the pic ture was purchased by a British nobleman distinguished for fine taste in the arts. From Mr. Williams, the celebrated landscape painter, Edinburgh, Miss Jane Waldie received some sUght instructions in etching, which art she pursued with considerable success. She also executed several paintings which were deservedly admired, from sketches of scenery which she made whilst on a tour in North and South Wales. During the "hundred days," Miss Waldie accompanied her brother and sister on a tour to Flanders and HoUand, and was at Brussels during the eventful battle of Waterloo. Her account, recorded in her journal, of the circumstances attendant upon that important event, is highly graphic and interesting. She took a panoramic sketch of the field after the battle, drawn with masterly firmness, accuracy, breadth, and feeling. It was pubUshed with her journal, and went through ten editions in the course of a few months. In 1821, Miss Jane Waldie became the wife of Captain Watts, a naval officer who had distinguished himself in numerous actions ; and they adopted Langton Grange as their residence. Unfortunately, however, the health of Mis. Watts, which had been severely affected whilst in Italy, became gradually worse ; and after enduring great topher Hutton of Hunwick, married Henry Birkbeck* in 1606 ; and their daughter Eleanor married Henry, eldest son of Timothy Draper, " one of his majesty's customers " at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, in 1636. The estate afterwards passed, by successive marriages, to the Mossacks and Clarks ; and Ann, only surviving child of Ralph Clark, Gent., of Headlam, married, in 1699, Lawrence Brockett, attorney-at-law, of Hilton. The hall and estate were sold in 1845, by the widow of Richard Hodgson Brockett, a descendant of the family, to the late John Hett, Esq., by whose representatives it is now held. The village of Headlam is 2 miles north-east from Gainford, and 3J east-by-south from Staindrop. It is pleasantly situated on the south side of a rising ground, and is watered by a small stream, which, after supplying the hall ponds, winds its way towards the south-east, and falls into the Tees at Carlbury. The remains of an ancient chapel, in the middle of the village, are now converted into a stable. Some venerable willows, which overhung its bank, were wantonly destroyed, on the anniversary of Gunpowder Plot, some years ago. In a retired situation at the east end of the village is the ancient residence of the Birkbecks, originally of the time of Elizabeth or James I., but now modernized into a commodious mansion, called Headlam Hall, the residence and property of the representatives of the late John Hett, Esq. The original staircase and hall are preserved ; the latter being a fine wainscoted apart ment, 30 feet 10 inches by 17 feet 9 inches, with a richly ornamented fire-place at the south end, bearing suffering with uncomplaining patience, she died on the 6th July, 1826, in the 34th year of her age, leaving only one son. Her published literary productions are, " Sketches of Italy,'' "A Tour in Flanders, Holland, and France," " Continental Adventures," and sundry contributions in prose and verse to various periodicals. As an artist, however, Mrs. Watts was more distinguished than as an authoress ; and few have attained, without instruction and in so short a time, so high a degree of excellence in the various branches of art as this highly gifted and amiable woman. * The Rev. Simon Birkbeck, brother of Henry, born in 1584, was a noted preacher, a good disputant, aud weU read in the fathers and schoolmen. In 1617, he was presented by his kinsman, Richard Wharton, Esq., (receiver-general within the archdeaconry of Rich mond, the bishopric of Durham, and the county of Northumberland,) to the vicarage of GUling, Yorkshire, where he died September 14, 1656. In 1634, he published " The Protestant's Evidence, shewing that for 1500 years next after Christ, divers Guides of God's Church have, in Sundry Points of Religion, taught as the Church of England now doth;" in 1657, "Answer to a Romish Antidotist ;" and a " Treatise of Death, Judgment, Heaven, and Hell." The two first- named works are still considered by many as amongst the most powerful and argumentative works that Protestantism has produced. 138 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. the arms of Henry Birkbeck and Anne Brackenbury, his wife. At the other end of the room is a large full- length portrait, rudely executed, of some member of the family, probably of Henry Birkbeck himself, dressed in the fashion of his time. Attached to the house are a garden, lawn, orchard, pleasure grounds, and plantations. Tradition points out one of the enclosed grass yards, on the east, as the place of inter ment used by the Puritan family of Mossock in the 17th century. The house and grounds command views up and down the valley of the Tees, extending on the south-east to the Yorkshire hills, and on the west and north-west including the woods of Raby and the dis tant hills of Teesdale. The hall was for some years occupied as a boarding school. CLEATLAM. The township of Cleatlam, partly in the parish of Staindrop, contains 1,097 acres, and was assessed for the county-rate in 1853 at £1,166 10s. 4d. There were 73 inhabitants in 1801, 103 in 1811, 126 in 1821, 94 in 1831, 95 in 1841, and 107 in 1851. Of the latter number, 52 were males and 55 females, inhabit ing 27 houses. The contributions of this township to the Teesdale Union, for the year ended March, 1854, were, for in- maintenance, clothing, and funerals, £6 8s. lid.; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £6 Is. 7d. ; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 14s. ; for law costs, revising barrister, and jury lists, 5s. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, incidental expenses, &c, lis. 6d. ; the total expendi ture, £14 is., being 14s. 5d. more than that of the preceding year. For registration, 3s. 6d. was paid ; and the county-rate paid by the overseers was £19 10s. lid. The village of Cleatlam is situated on an eminence, 3 1 miles north-west from Gainford, and 2 south-by-east from Staindrop. The principal estate is one of the hereditary possessions of the Bowes family, who also acquired other property from a family named Ward. The old mansion of the latter, still the property of John Bowes, Esq., a gavel-ended old house, with mullioned windows, remains. The collegiate church of Staindrop, and the chantrey of St. John the Baptist in St. Andrew's Auckland, had lands in Cleatlam, in which also were the estates forfeited by Sir John Somerset. The pre sent owners of land are, John Bowes, John Barnes, and John Smith, Esqrs. Cleatlam Moor was inclosed in 1636. MORTON-TYNEMOUTH. The little township of Morton-Tynemouth contains 399 acres, on which, in 1851, there were 5 inhabited houses and 1 uninhabited. The value of property assessed to the county-rate in 1853 was £498 17s. The population, at the six decennial returns, was 23, 28, 31, 19, 28, and 28, of which latter number 13 were males and 15 females. Morton-Tynemouth contributed to the Teesdale Union, during the year ended March, 1854, for out- relief and lunatics, £13 12s.; for irremoveable poor, salaries, and other common charges, £9 lis. lid.; for constable and costs before magistrates, &c, 8s. ; and for journeys, salaries of assistant overseers, inci dental expenses, &c, 6s. ; being a total expenditure of of £23 17s. lid., or £1 19s. lid. less than that of the preceding year. The cost of registration was Is. lOd. ; and the oounty-rate paid by the overseers £8 10s. 7d. Morton, which derives its addition from having once belonged to the priors of Tynemouth, was one of the vills given up by Aldhune to the Earls of North umberland, but which reverted to the see of Durham ; for Bishop Kellaw granted to Thomas de Graystanes five messuages, 45 acres of arable, and 1 of meadow in Morton nigh Kyllerby, to hold by the thirtieth part of a knight's fee. The estate was held by the families of Graystanes, Morton, Alwent, and Birkbeck, and was purchased in the latter part of the 17th century, by the Cradocks. It is now the property of Christopher Cradock, Esq., of Hartforth Hall, Yorkshire. BOLAM. The township of Bolam contains 989 acres, with 28 inhabited houses and 2 uninhabited ; the whole valued for the county-rate in 1853 at £960 6s. 3£d. It is in cluded in the North-west Division of the Ward, and in the Hamsterley sub-district of the Auckland Union. The population is given in the returns as follows : — 95, 121, 121, 115, 129, and 125, of whom 61 were males and 64 females. The Cockfield Dyke, which passes through this township, is quarried for the roads. The village of Bolam is situated on an eminence com manding an extensive prospect to the south and west, 4| miles north-north-east from Gainford, and 7 north west from Darlington. It contains a public house. PARISH OF GAINFORD. 139 At the east end of the village, a chapel of ease was erected about 20 years ago. The building is in the Gothic style of architecture, and is capable of ac commodating nearly 200 persons. Service is performed on Sundays by the vicar or the curate of Gainford. By Hatfield's Survey, the tenants of Bolam paid 5s. annually to the farmers of Midridge Grange for leave to water their cattle at Wydhop-pool. The De la Poles held a large estate in the township, by rents and services under the Percys. An inquisition taken on the death of Ralph, Earl of Westmoreland, in 1425, states that he held 40 acres of land in Bolam of the Earl of Warwick. In 1510, Richard Lord Lumley died seised of this estate. By letters patent, June 5, 1561, Robert Pursglove, the last prior of Guisborough, founded a school and hospital at that place, and endowed them with his lands, tenements, rents, and services in Bolam. This property, consisting of about 400 acres, still be longs to the institution, and gives to the six beadsmen * Sie. Samuel Gabth, M.D. — This elegant poet and talented phy sician was the son of WilUam Garth, of Bolam, though, in biographies, he is generaUy styled a native of Yorkshire. He received his academical education at Peter House, Cambridge, where it is said he resided until he took his degree of M.D. on July 7, 1692. At the period of his admission to the coUege, a violent dispute existed amongst the members, relative to the establishment of a dispensary for distributing medicine gratis to the poor of the city of London and its environs. The measure, which was founded on a unanimous vote of the college, July 28, 1687, was opposed by the apothecaries, who found means to raise a party in the coUege itself, and a violent dis pute arose. Dr. Garth warmly espoused the cause of the liberal party ; and the result was the production of his admirable satire, " The Dispensary." It was first published in 1694, and being widely read and admired, contributed materially to the fame of the author. In a few months, it passed through three editions, in consequence of which he afterwards made many additions and corrections ; and. in 1706, he published a sixth edition, with several descriptions and episodes not before printed. In 1703, WUliam Garth, father of Sir Samuel, states in his wUl, that " Whereas he hath been at great charges in the education of his eldest son, Samuel Garth, at the University of Cambridge, and in his taking his degree there of Doctor of Physick ; and whereas his son, WiUiam Garth, hath several times denyed great and good preferments offered to him, chusing rather to live and remain with me, though to his loss of time, &c, he hath therefore, as part recompence, granted to WiUiam aU his leasehold lands, &c, in Bolam, held under the hospital of Jesus in Guisbrough, and he now devises to him aU his free lands in Bolam.'' To Samuel he gives £10, and a, like sum to his third son Thomas, a major in the army. But though a good edu cation and the sum just named were the sole patrimony of Dr. Garth, he soon attained the first rank in his profession. He was a zealous Whig; and his companionable talents, and proficiency in polite literature, acquired him patrons of great rank aud influence. In 1697, he composed and printed his " Harveian Oration," which was much extoUed for its Latinity. In this oration he ridiculed the mul tifarious classes of quacks with a just spirit and inimitable humour. Although a party man, he was always ready to benefit men of merit on every side, and hence was an early encourager of Pope. He was of the hospital, in right of their life interest, the privilege of voting for members for the Southern Division of the county of Durham. The Garths,* Raynes, Trotters, Wranghams, Crawfurds, and South erns held divers estates in Bolam. Besides the hospital, the principal proprietors are, the Duke of Cleveland, G. B. Wharton, Esq., Mr. Geo. Marley, and Mr. John Sowerby. SUMMERHOUSE. Summekhotjse is a township in the South-east Division of Darlington Ward, and is included in the Aycliffe subdistrict of Darlington Union. It contains 809 acres, and was assessed for the county-rate in 1853 at £1,028 lis. 4d. The population, in 1801, was 158 ; in 1811, 156; in 1821, 189; in 1831, 192; in 1841, 165; and in 1851, 177, of whom 84 were males and 93 females. also the principal means of procuring the last decent attentions to the neglected remains of Dryden, which rendered him highly and de servedly popular. In 1710, he addressed a copy of verses to Lord Godolphin on his dismissal, and displayed his attachment to the house of Hanover by an elegant Latin dedication of an intended version of Lucretius to the Elector, afterwards George I. On the accession of the latter, the honour of knighthood was conferred upon Dr. Garth in 1715 ; the ceremony being performed with the Duke of Marlborough's sword ; and he was appointed physician in ordinary to the king, and physician-general to the army. He is said to have had a very extensive practice, in which he conducted himself with great moderation, as to his views of pecuniary reward, and with a strict regard to the honour and interests of the profession. He died in the height both of medical and literary reputation, January 18, 1718, and was buried in the church of Harrow-on-the-Hill. The minor poems of Dr. Garth consist of " Claremont," a poem descriptive of the seat of the Duke of Newcastle ; Verses to Lady Louisa Lenox ; to the Duchess of Bolton ; to the Earl of Darlington, with Ovid's Art of Love ; Addresses to Lord Godolphin and the Duke of Marlborough ; Verses inscribed on the drinking-glasses of the Kitcat Club (instituted in 1703, with the design of supporting » warm zeal for the Protestant succession of the house of Hanover, and which consisted of about 30 noblemen and gentlemen, including '• all the talent" of the Whig party) ; Lines on Queen Anne's Statue ; on the Conspiracy, 1716; and Prologues and Translations from Ovid. He has left no work directly professional ; his mind being too much directed to polite literature and social intercourse to allow of his paying any great degree of attention to science. Though he was deemed a latitudinarian as to religion, yet Pope says, in a letter, " His death was heroical, and yet unaffected enough to have made a saint or a philosopher famous ; and if ever there was a good Christian without knowing himself to be so, it was Dr. Garth." His wtfe was Martha, daughter of Sir Henry Beaufoy, of Enescote, Warwickshire, by the Hon. Charlotte Lane, eldest daughter of George Viscount Lanesborough. Martha Beaufoy, sole daughter and heiress of Sir Samuel, married AVilliam Boyle, captain in the Duke of Schomberg's horse, brother to Henry Earl of Shannon, and fourth son of the Hon. Henry Boyle, youngest son of Roger, first Earl of Orrery. Their descendants are the Bain brigges, of Hugglescote, Leicestershire. 140 DARLINGTON WARD— SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. There were, at the latter date, 42 inhabited houses and 1 uninhabited. The hamlet of Summerhouse is situated on the turn pike road between Staindrop and Darlington, 6 miles west-north-west from the latter place, and 2 north-east from Gainford. A subscription school was erected in 1821, and is capable of holding 70 children. The late Duke of Cleveland, the Rev. J. Blackburn, vicar of Gainford, Messrs. George Dent, T. Wilkinson, and others, were the principal contributors. The school at present is butindifferently attended. A Methodist chapel wasopenedin 1823, but is now discontinued. Thevillage contains a few tradesmen and mechanics, and one public house. Obscure traces of extensive foundations remain in a field on the south side of the village, which are locally called " The Castle Garth."* At the feast of St. Cuthbert, in September, 1207, William, son of Robert Beneit, gave to the monastery of Durham certain lands in Summerhouse; and by another charter, he added six oxgangs which William Mastel held. These lands were afterwards granted by the prior and monks to the Nevilles. After the attainder, the estate was sold, and became the property of the Sandfords of Hewgill Castle, Westmoreland, and subsequently passed by marriage to Philip and Filmer Honeywood, of Markshall, Essex, from whom it was purchased, in 1786, by John Bailey, Esq., of Chilling- ham, Northumberland. William Bailey, Esq., of Ha- slerigg, sold it to the Duke of Cleveland ; and with the exception of about 24 acres belonging to the represen tatives of the late John Wilkinson, the whole township belongs to his grace. PIERCEBRIDGE. This township forms the south-eastern portion of the parish of Gainford, and is, like Summerhouse, included in the south-east Division of Darlington Ward, but is a member of the Darlington subdistrict of the union. Its area is 920 acres, divided into five farmsteads ; the property was valued for the county-rate in 1853 at £1,184 6s. 6d. The number of inhabitants, in 1801s was 193; in 1811, 231; in 1821, 236; in 1831, 278; in 1841, in consequence of the discontinuance of a * Surtees conjectures the name of the township to have been originally appUed to a summer residence of the early lords of Raby. f To the north of Catterick, the great Roman road, which may be traced through the county in a continuous line from Doneaster to Catterick, separates into two branches, one of which, passing by Greta Bridge and Bowes, proceeded to Carlisle (Luguvallium) ; and the other, crossing the Tees at Piercebridge, was continued to Newcastle boarding school, it had declined to 224; and in 1851, it was 235, of whom 119 were males and 116 females. There were, at the latter date, 52 inhabited houses and 2 uninhabited. The village is beautifully situated on the banks of the Tees, 5J miles west-by-north from Darlington. Tra dition has derived the name from Priestbridge ; the bridge over the Tees, previously of wood, being said to have been built of stone by two priests of the neighbourhood, " or from the priests appointed to serve the devotion of travellers, as well as in the neighbourhood of a chapel, the ruins of which remain hard by the bridge." But the name in early records, is generally Persebridge, as in Leland, " Perse- bridge, sumtime of five arches, but a late made new of three arches. There is a prati chapel of our Lady, hard by Persebridge, of the foundation of John Balliol, ting of Scottes." Piercebridge stands on the site of a considerable Roman station, to the east of which, at about 200 yards distance, the great Roman road called Watling Street entered the county of Durham from Catterick (the Roman CataractoniumJ ,f and passed on, in the direction of the present road to Legs Crpss, towards Binchester (see vol. i., p. 104). Maclauchlan agrees with Horsley and Hodgson, in placing Magis at Piercebridge, the station at which contains about 8f acres within the walls. A part of the western side of the vallum remained till the year 1822, when it was demolished by the occupant, James O'Callaghan, Esq., M.P. for Winchelsea, and the stones, (many of which were of very large size, and of an oblong shape) used in the erection of farm build ings, with the exception of a few that retained fragments of inscriptions ; but the north and west sides of the mound are still visible, as also the south-western angle. Like most other Roman stations, this has been erected on a lingula, or neck of land formed by the junction of two streams; the small stream which here flows from the north-west into the Tees dividing the township of Piercebridge from that of Carlbury,J in the parish of Coniscliffe. " This brook," according to Dr. Hunter's MSS., " supplied the ditch of the fortress with water, and also the garrison by an aqueduct, firmly arched at the top, so as to bear the public road, till 1730, when some coal {Pons Mlix). These two Unes of communication connected the south of England with both the eastern and western extremity of the Roman WaU. % " The occurrence of this name so near to the Roman camp," says Mr. Maclauchlan, "renders it possible that the Britons called the place Caer, and that the Saxons added their own word Bury — a Camp." PARISH OF GAINFORD. 141 draughts penetrated through it, discovering the cavity above a yard wide and a yard and a quarter deep." This ancient work was evidently intended to protect the ford by which the road from the south passed towards Scotland. The road itself does not appear to have passed through the station ; but Mr. M. A. Den- ham, of Piercebridge, who has paid considerable atten tion to the antiquities of the place, affirms that in dry weather the mark of a way may be seen across the field called the Tofts, to the Roman road. In descending the hill on the south side of the river, from the turnpike gate towards Piercebridge, at a spot where the modern road branches off to Cliffe Hall, a Roman monumental slab, with an inscription, was recently found, in lowering the bank to join the Roman way. Mr. Maclauchlan supposes that the station at Pierce bridge, with Howbury camp, that at Greta Bridge, and the commanding post at the fords of Barforth, called Old Richmond, formed a line of defence for this part of the Tees. The position at Howbury is well chosen, as it commands a view of the river as far as Winston Bridge on the one side, and above the ford at Wyclffe on the other ; being also equidistant (3 miles) from the two last-named places. A great number of coins, urns, and other antiquities, have been found in and around this station. A small brass statue of Mercury, of elegant workmanship, said to have been found here, forms the subject of an en graving in the Archaeologia, xix., 289. An inscription on an altar, erected by Antonius Quintianus to the memory of Condatus, is given in Gough's Camden, &c. A massive thumb-ring of pure gold (weight 182 grains) was found in 1818, with some other Roman remains, at this place, and is now in the possession of the dowager Duchess of Cleveland. The hoop, wrought by the hammer, is joined by welding the extremities together: to this is attached an oval facet, the metal engraved in intaglio ; the impress, though somewhat effaced, being two human heads, probably male and female, respectant, or gazing upon each other, the prototype of the nume rous " love seals" of a later period* A beautiful gold coin was found April 6, 1853, bearing the following inscription: — (Obv.) "imptraianoavggerd acp MTRP." (Rev.) "COSVPPSPQROPTIMOPRINC." It is now in the possession of Mr. M. A. Denham. * This is not the first Roman example of the kind found in Eng land. The same device appears on a ring, apparently of the Roman period, found on Stanmore Common in 1781, and mentioned in Gough's Camden, vol. i., p. cxx. Where the idea occurs on medieval seals, the heads are usually accompanied by the motto, The number of interesting coins found at Pierce bridge, and the thoroughly distinct character of its Roman remains, have of late attracted much of the attention of antiquaries ; and his grace the Duke of Northumberland, with other distinguished persons, frequently visit the station. Several rude stone coffins, projecting from the bank of the river Tees, have been exposed as the earth was washed away by the river; and one, projecting from the face of a quarry at Carlbury, on the west side of the road, may be seen in passing by. A number of smoking pipes, made of clay, and locally known by the name of fairy pipes, are often found, many of which are in the possession of Mr. Denham. The chapel mentioned by Leland, of which some traces still remain, was dedicated to the Virgin, and is first mentioned in 1315-16, on the inquisition of the property of Guy Earl of Warwick. In the in quisition taken on the forfeiture of Thomas Earl of Warwick, 1397-8 (see page 9), mention is made of the advowson of the ''church" in Piercebridge; and in another inquisition, it is described as the " free chapel of Percebridge." A survey was made, 2nd Edw. VI., describing "The chauntrie of Priestbrig, granted for terme of liffe to the incumbent, Peter Carter, of the age of L. yeres, incumbent. The yerelie valewe c. iiijs. iiij received the price for which they sold the king to the parliament. On February 26, 1646-7, the House of Commons PARISH OF STOCKTON. 153 resolved, " that Stockton Castle be made untenable, and the garrison disgarrisoned ;" and, on the 13th July following, " that the house doth concur with the Lords, that the works about Stockton Castle made sithence these troubles, be slighted and dismantled, and the garj rison disgarrisoned." On March 24, 1647-8, Stockton manor was sold to William Underwood and James Nelthorpe for £6,165 10s. 2|d. ; but the Castle was not totally destroyed till four years afterwards.* The state of the manor at that period is described in the following document : — " An exact survey of the manor of Stockton, and of the townepps thereunto belonging, viz. Carleton, Norton and Stockton, and Hart- bume, made and taken by Edward Colston and George Daile, Gen tlemen, 1647. But the Court of Survey was begun by Thomas Saunders, Samuel Leigh, Esquire, and George Daile, Gentleman, by virtue of a commission to them and us directed 18th of January, 1646, made from the honourable the trustees in the said commission named and authorised, with others, by 2 several ordinances of the High Court of Parliament, for the disposal of archbishopps and bishopps lands, throughout the whole kingdom of England and dominion of Wales. The jury enquire into severall articles, and present with the said commissioners as followeth, (viz.) " That the B'pp's Castle, situate at the South end of the Towne of Stockton by the river Tease, is ruinous, and in great decay ; that the River is Navigable, & within 10 miles of the Mayne Sea. — That the towne of Stockton is an antient Burrough & Markett towne by antient Charters, but the Markett unserv'd of late, it standing very dirty in winter, formerly a fair for 8 days. " That the Country is a Champion Country, very fruitful, though a stiff clay. " That the Castle hath had a great moate ab'- it, but the same is now for want of cleansing filled up in part, & within that moate hath heretofore been orchards and gardens, but all destroyed ; there hath likewise been a Parke, but the same hath been disparked. " That there belongeth to the said Castle good demesnes worth per ann. as it is now lett, £218 Is. Id. viz. a meadow or parke lying under the Castle Wall, containing 26 acres, now lett for £19 0s. 4d. — The Thornes, with the Intack & horse close, containing about thirty acres, & the other ground ah'- 20 acres, lett for £30 2s. 8d.— The Park heads 45 acres, Littie meadow field 40 acres, lett for £41 9s. 9d. — The great Sum'er field 130 acres, and Winter field, lett for £82 18s. 7d.— Kelsoe Hill 40 acres, and Midnight Hole 40 acres, letten for £41 9s. 9d. — Smithy Hill & orchard, tying under the Castle Wall, is now lett for £00 10s. 0d.— All which amounts together to £218 Is. Id.— And by the testimony of several upon oath the same is worth £280 0s. Od. — That there is no wood growing upon any part of it, or in that part of ye Country ; nor is there any Quarryes, Mynes, Parks, or Sheep Racks within the said Moate, except the Park above mentioned be longing to the B'pp. * An imaginary view of the castle, previous to its demolition, is given in Brewster's History of Stockton. The history of the drawing from which this view was taken is thus given by Ritson : — " Old Mr. Burdon, of Norton, told me that Mr. Thompson, the Pres byterian minister here, had collected several very curious papers relating the castle, chapel, and borough of Stockton and Norton, and the county in general, which at his decease came to his daughter, " That the B'pp has the royalties of the River Tease, as Whales, Sturgeons, Porpoises or the like, taken on that side the River next the County of Durham within his manor of Stockton, & all wracks of the sea, but know not what they are worth : — not £5 per ann. , "That there is one Water Corne Milne called Norton Milne, w<* we are informed the Tents of the severall Townepps within the said mann'r (save only Carleton) are tyed to grind all their Corne at ; & that there belongeth to the said Milne 6 acres of meadow, the hay of which belongeth to the Ten' of ye sd Milne, but the herbage thereof after the hay taken off belongeth to the Inh'itants of the Townepp of Norton, whioh sd. Milne is lett by lease unto Alice Armstrong for 3 Lives.— And the Copyholders within the sd- severall Townepps by the Custome of the s