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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1944

SUJIiUJll.BB OF Olir Al. AJ IU ATC, (CAM, JMIJM, t. A IDO & ll-AY&S.)

THE
MODERN TRAVELLER. A
POPULAR DESCRIPTION,
GEOGRAPHICAL, HISTORICAL, AND TOPOGRAPHICAL,
OF THB
VARIOUS COUNTRIES OF THE GLOBE.

MEXICO and guatimala:
VOL. II.

LONDON :

PRINTED FOR JAMES DUNCAN ;
OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; M. OGLE, ©LASGOW;
AND R. M. TIMS, DUBLIN.
1825.

LONDON !
PJIINTBD BY J. MOYE6, BOUVER1E STREET.

CONTENTS
OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

MEXICO. . AG-
GUANAXUATO  1
FROM GUANAXUATO TO ALTAMIRA  17
SAN LUIS POTOSI  1«
INTERIOR EASTERN PROVINCES  23
SAN BLAS  34
TEPIC  42
GUADALAXARA  50
ZACATECAS  54
DURANGO  55
SONORA  64
NEW MEXICO  71
NEW CALIFORNIA  88
OLD CALIFORNIA  97
FROM SANTA FE TO NATCHITOCHES  101
VALLADOLID  118
VOLCANO OF JORULLO  121
OAXACA  127
RUINS AT MITLA  130
TEHUANTEPEC  134
MERIDA, OR YUCATAN  •¦•¦  ¦'¦•¦¦ W7
CHIAPA  '¦  I52
RUINS -OF PALENQUE  ls7
CONCLUSION  169

CONTENTS.

GUATIMALA. PAGE
BOUNDARIES  177
STATE OF THE COUNTRY PRIOR TO THE CON
QUEST  178
TERRITORIAL LIMITS AND PROVINCIAL DIVI
SIONS  191
MOSQUITO SHORE  194
PROVINCES ON THE COAST OF THE PACIFIC- •¦• 197
VALLEY OF GUATIMALA  215
OLD GUATIMALA  222
NEW GUATIMALA  238
VOLCANOES OF GUATIMALA  247
PROVINCE OF SOLOLA  ¦  25.
PROVINCES OF QUEZALTENANGO AND TOTONI-
CAPAN  2S1
PROVINCES ON THE ATLANTIC COAST  273
INTENDANCY OF NICARAGUA  301
PROJECTED SHIP CANAL FOR UNITING THE
TWO OCEANS  303
PROVINCE OF COSTA RICA  312
CONCLUSION  318

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
Vol. I. Map of Mexico  to face the Title.
Pyramid of Cholula  254
The Great Square at Mexico  268
Basaltic Rocks at Regla  356
Vol.. II. Suburbs of GuANAXUATo.-.toface the Title.
Indians of Mecboacan  119
Volcano of Jorullo  121

THE
MODERN TRAVELLER,

ETC. ETC.

MEXICO.
GUANAXUATO.
The city of Santa Fe de Guanaxuato (or, as it is
sometimes written and pronounced, Gonnajoato) is
the Villa Rica of Mexico, being placed in the very
heart of its richest groupe of silver mines, on the
porphyritic range of the Sierra de Santa Rosa." It
is one of the most singularly situated cities in the
world. One might imagine that the jealous spirit of
the mine had chosen this labyrinth of mountain
ravines as his capital, for the purpose at once of secu
rity and concealment ; and the extraordinary shapes
assumed by the gigantic masses of porphyry, have
frequently the appearance of ruined walls and bastions.
These rocks give to the environs an extremely romantic
appearance. The hills which surround the city are
partly arid, partly covered with shrubs and evergreen
oaks, which greatly heighten the picturesque effect.
The city itself is entirely screened from view by the
windings of the narrow defile Which leads into the
recesses of the mountain ; and when the traveller at
* Humboldt sixes the latitude 21° 0' 9" N. ; long. 109° W.
PAKT III. B

2 MEXICO.
length finds himself introduced into the city, he has
no idea of its extent, one part being so hidden from
another, that, viewed from the streets, it appears
to be a small town. It is only by ascending the
heights on the opposite side, that a view is gained of
the whole valley, broken into ravines, along the sides
of which the town is built. Surveyed from this
point, the novelty of its situation strikes the stranger
with astonishment. In some places, it is seen spread
ing out into the form of an amphitheatre ; in others,
stretching along a narrow ridge ; while the ranges of
the habitations, accommodated to the broken ground,
present the most fantastic groupes.
" Nothing can he more ruinous and gloomy,"
says the Author of Notes on Mexico, " than the
approach to the city ; but, on leaving the bed of
the river, we ascended a steep projecting rock, and
entered a street, skirting a ravine, supported by a lofty
.tone wall, having houses on only one side of it. We
soon found ourselves in the heart of the town,
winding along crooked, narrow, streets, and across
open spaces, which cannot be called squares, for they
are irregular and of indescribable forms, most of
them filled with market-stalls. The houses present a
very singular appearance. They are spacious and
well built, of hewn stone, but the fronts have been
•newly painted, and of the gayest colours : light green
is the favourite ; and some exhibit the colours of the
Three Guarantees of the Plan of Iguala,  white,
green, and red, which are now the national colours of
Mexico.* We were conducted to the custom-house,
where we had only to make a declaration that we had
not more than one thousand dollars with us, and were
* This was in the year 1822, during the reign of Itiurlnd .. .

MEXICO. _
suffered to proceed to the meson. A traveller is
allowed to carry with him a sum not exceeding a
thousand dollars, without paying duty. Ou'r meson
is very comfortable. We have two rooms up stairsj
that look on the street, with a table and a bench in
each. Our mattresses are on the floor, but then it is
paved, and the white-washed walls are almost clean."
The city of Guanaxuato was founded by the
Spaniards in 1545. It was constituted a town in
1619, and invested with, the privileges of a city in
1741. The first mine that was worked, that of
San Barnabe, five leagues from the city, was begun in
1548, twenty-eight years after the death of Mon^
tezuma. In 1758, the mines of Meblado and Rat/as
were opened on the great vein (veta madre). But,
for a considerable time, the mines of Guanaxuato
attracted little notice, and they were almost aban
doned during the seventeenth and eighteenth cen
turies. It is not above fifty years that they have
become so famous. They are now esteemed richer
than those of either Pachuca, Zacatecas, or Bolanos ;
and their produce has been almost double that of
Potosi. In thirty-eight years, namely, from 1766 to
1803, the mines of Guanaxuato produced gold and
silver to the value of 165,000,000 of piastres, or
12,720,0611b. troy ; the annual average produce being
556,000 marcs of silver, or 364,9111b. troy, and
from 1,500 to 1,600 marcs of gold.* All the veins of
Hungary and Transylvania together yield only, on an
average, 85,000 marcs of silver. -j- The mother vein
* Humboldt states, that the veta madre of Guanaxuato has
yielded more than a fourth part of the silver of Mexico, and a
sixth part of -the produce of all America.
t But, although the quantity of silver annually extracted from
the mines of Mexico, i_ ten times greater than what is furnished-
b2

4 MEXICO.
(veta madre) of the Sierra de Santa Rosa extends, in
a direction from S.E. to N.W., rather more than five
leagues ; and within this distance, from Valenciana
to San Bruno, there are upwards of a hundred shafts
opened, which, before the Revolution, were yielding
10,000 mule-loads of ore, of eleven orro. as (275 lb.)
each, every week. In 1803, there were employed on
the works, 5000 workmen, 1,896 grinding mills, and
14,618 mules. " The Valenciana," says Humboldt,
" is almost the sole example of a mine which, for forty
years, has never yielded less to its proprietors than
from two to three millions of francs annual profit
(from 80 to 120,000/.). It appears that the part ofthe
vein extending from Tepeyac to the north-west, had
not been much wrought towards the end of the
sixteenth century. From that period, the whole tract
remained forsaken till 1760, when a Spaniard who
went over to America very young, began to work this
vein in one of the points which had till that time been
believed to be destitute of the metals. M. Obregon
(that was the name of this Spaniard) was without
fortune; hut, as he had the reputation of being a
worthy man, he found friends who from time to time
advanced him small sums to carry on his operations.
In 1766, the works were already 260 feet in depth,
and yet, the expenses greatly surpassed the value
of the metallic produce. With a passion for mining,
equal to what some display for gaming, M. Obregon
preferred submitting to every sort of privation, to
by all the mines of Europe, gold is not much more abundant
in New Spain than in Hungary and Transylvania. The latter
countries, Humboldt says, annually throw into circulation nearly
5,200 marcs r and the gold delivered into the mint of Mexico,
amounts, in ordinary years, only to 7,000 marcs. The annual pro
duce of New Spain is estimated by Humboldt at 23,000,000 of
piastres, viz. twenty-two of silver and one of gold.

MEXICO. 5
abandoning his undertaking. In 1767, he entered
into partnership with a petty merchant of Rayas,
named Otero. Could he then hope that, in the space
of a few years, he and his friend would become
the richest individuals in Mexico, perhaps in the
whole world ? In 1768, they began to extract a very
considerable quantity of silver from the mine of
Valenciana. In proportion as the shafts went deeper,
they approached the depository of the great metallic
wealth of Guanaxuato. In 1771, they drew from the
pertinencia de dolores enormous masses of sulphuret
of silver, mixed with native and red silver. From
that period till 1804, the mine of Valenciana has con
tinually yielded an annual produce of nearly 600,000..
sterling. There have been years so productive, that
the net profit of the two proprietors of the mine
has amounted to the sum of 250,000.. sterling.
M. Obregon, better known by his title of Count
de la Valenciana, preserved, in the midst of immense
wealth, the same simplicity of manners and the same
frankness of character, by which he was distinguished
previously to his success.* When he began to work
the vein of Guanaxuato, above the ravine of San
Xavier, goats were feeding on the very hill which, ten
years afterwards, was covered with a town of 7 or
8,000 inhabitants." f
Throughout Mexico, the ore is poor, much more so
* During the last twenty-five years of his life, his annual
revenue from his mine, was never below from 80 to 125,000/., and
yet, at his death, he left behind him only 400,000i. in property,
exclusive of his mine; a fact which, Humboldt says, will not sur
prise persons who are acquainted with the interior management
of the great Mexican families, and the unbounded spirit of mining
speculation. f Pol. Essay, vol. iii. pp. 193-^5.

6 MEXICO.
than in the mines of Europe. The average propor
tion is not higher than three or four ounces of silver
to 1,600 ounces of ore. Garces, the author of a valu.
able treatise on Amalgamation, states, that " the
great mass of Mexican ore is so poor, that the three
millions of marcs of silver which the kingdom yields
in good years, are extracted from ten millions of
quintals of ore, partly by heat, and partly by amalga
mation." The mine of Valenciana at Guanaxuato,
yielded, from January 1, 1787, to June 11, 1791, the
sum of 1,737,052 marcs of silver, which were ex
tracted from 84,368 montones of ore. A monton is
thirty-two quintals, which gives five ounces and one-
tenth of silver per quintal. The ore extracted in 1791
yielded nine ounces and three-tenths of silver per
quintal ; viz. the quintal of rich ore (polviltos 4/
xabones), 22 marcs 3 ounces ; the second quality (apol-
), 9 marcs 3 ounces ; the third quality (bianco
), 3 marcs 1 ounce, and the poor ore and sift-
ings, 3 ounces. The expenses of working the mines
are very considerable. Those of the mine of Valen
ciana, at the time that the produce amounted to from
12 to 14 millions of dollars, were upwards of 900,000
dollars, viz. 680,000 in wages, and 220,000 for
powder, tallow, wood, leather, steel, and other mate
rials.* At that time, there were 1800 men employed
* In 1803, the mine of Valenciana produced 27,000 dollars per
week ; 3,100 individuals were employed; and the weekly expenses
were 17,000 dollars. In nine years, this mine yielded 13,835,380
dollars, and the. expenses of extraction were 8,046,063 dollars,
leaving a gross profit of 5,789,317 dollars, subject to the duty,
seignorage, &c " When we take into calculation," says the Ame
rican Traveller, " the costly works at these mines, the expensive
process of separating the precious metals from the ore, the high
wages of all the employis, from the administrador to the common
labourer, the tax of 10 per cent paid to the government, and the

MEXICO. 7
in the interior of the mine, besides 300 men, women,
and children, in different ways. Almost all the ore is
brought up by porters. . The state of. these mines,
indeed, says the Author of Notes on Mexico, is
deplorable. " The expenses of working them have
already been prodigiously augmented by the depth of
the shafts and the prolongation of the galleries ;
and it will require a large, capital to establish forcing
pumps to extract the water. In many instances,
it will be impossible to employ steam as the moving
power, from, the great scarcity of fuel."
According to Humboldt, the population of Guanax
uato in 1802 was, within the city, 41,000 ; in the
suburbs and mines surrounding it, 29,600: total,
70,600. But, from a census taken in May 1822, the
inhabitants of the city appear to be now only 15,379,
and . the total population only 35,733 ; * being a
diminution of nearly one half. The town or suburb
of Valenciana alone formerly contained a population
of 22,000 souls ; it is now in ruins, and there are not
more than 4,000 inhabitants. The American Tra
veller gives the following account of the works as they
appeared at the period of his visit.
" The excavations extend from south-east to north
west, sixteen hundred yards, and eight hundred yards
very expensive works undertaken on the slightest indication of
silver ore, and which are frequently pursued with great ardour to
the utter ruin of the undertakers, — we shall find that the whole
profits of mining in New Spain, do not exceed 6 per cent on the
capital employed." A decree of the junta of the 13"th Feb., 1822,
reduced the tenth to 3 per cent, and the treasurer (Don Francisco
.Arillaga), in his report made to Congress in Nov. 1823, intimates
his expectation of great results//.m the introduction of steam-engines
by foreign capitalists. It remains to be seen how far these expec-
' tations will be realised.
* Of these, the males were 16,425, the fernales 19,308. There
were unmarried, 20,244 ; married, 11,962 ; widowed and widowers,
3,527- PAET III. C

81 MEXICO.
in a south-west direction. There are three parallels,
or plains, worked on ramifications of the principal
vein. The veta madre, or mother vein, was here
found not more than twenty-two feet wide, and
without any ramification, from the surface of the
soil to the depth of 557 feet : at this depth, it
divides into three branches, the entire mass being
from 165 to 195 feet thick. Of these three branches,
not more than one is in general very productive.
They have all the same angle (45°), but vary in
thickness from nine to forty yards. Four shafts de
scend to these parallels. The first, called San Antonio,
is of 744 feet perpendicular depth: the cost of this shaft
was 396,000 dollars. The square shaft of Santo
Christo, 492 feet deep, cost 95,000 dollars. The
hexagon shaft of our Lady of Guadeloupe, 1,131 feet
perpendScular depth, cost 700,000 dollars. San Jos_,
an octagon shaft of more than 1,800 feet perpen
dicular depth, and 300 feet in the direction of the
veta madre, which is an angle of 45°, cost 1,200,000
dollars. " To understand the necessity of sinking so many
shafts of different depths, it may be necessary to
explain, that in following the dip of the vein, which
is first discovered on the surface, and is almost in
variably an angle of 45°, the work is impeded after a
certain depth by water. , A shaft is then sunk, so as
to intercept the vein at the terminatidn of the gallery,
in order to free the mine from water. The wort
is then continued until it becomes necessary to sink
another shaft still deeper, to clear the lower galleries.
At the termination of each shaft, a great many par
allel galleries branch out on ramifications of the
mother vein.
" From th.se parallels a vast number of smaller

MEXICO. 9
galleries b. anch out, worked to a greater or less
distance as th_ or. proved to be of good or bad
quality ; and many of them were pierced with a view
of discovering Other veins. Besides the shafts, there
are two descents by steps, winding down to the
last parallel. On lfetving the house of the admini
strador, we were conducted to the first flight of steps :
preceded by four men carrying torches, we de
scended to the first parallel, and stopped where four
galleries branch off.
" Our torch-bearers were sent off to the extremity
of these galleries, that we might form some idea of
their extent in a straight Kile. They are both exten
sive and solid ; the vaults are of porphyry, and
the bottom of gray slate. In some places where the
ore proved very rich, it has been taken from the sides
and vaults, and the voids filled up with masonry and
beams, worked in so as to form a firm support to
the sides and roof. These galleries have been blasted
out, and must have cost great labour, for the whole
mountain is of porphyry to a great depth.
"The exterior is covered with a crust of brescia,
which extends not more than four or five feet from
the surface. The ore is for the most part extracted
by drilling and blasting : sometimes, but very rarely,
the wedge can be used. On our return, we plodded
painfully up these stairs, which the cargadores (por
ters) ascend with ease, with a load of ten or fifteen
arrobas on their shoulders. They are paid according
to the quantity they bring up ; and some of these
men will ascend, as we are told, from the perpen
dicular depth of 500 yards, carrying the enormous
weight of twenty-four arroba. (600 lbs.). In the court
yard into which we entered from the gallery, and
.where the workmen are searched, there was a large

10 MEXICO.
heap of ore, accumulated by each workman being
obliged to bring a stone up in his hand every time he
ascends, and throw it on this heap. There are about
1,000 workmen at present employed, and in the
course of a week a large pile is formed. The product
of this belongs to the mine, and forms a fund for con
tingent expenses. The matrices of these ores, which
we had here a good opportunity of examining, are
principally quartz, amethyst, and rock-crystal, horn-
stone here and there, and a small portion of cal
careous spar of a dark brown and of pearl colour.
The metals are, pyrites of iron, arsenic, yellow copper,
galena, gray and yellow blende, virgin gold and silver,
sulphate of silver, both brittle and ductile, and rosicler,
a rich silver ore of a bright rosy colour, which we did
not see. This ore is so rare, that I could not meet
with a specimen during my residence in Mexico.
There are likewise veins with copper, lead, tin, cinna
bar, antimony, and manganese ; and the crystals of the
carbonate of lime that are found in this mine, are very
large and perfect.
" We next visited the principal shaft, San Jose, an
octagon, the diameter eleven yards, and the perpendi
cular depth 600. This great work, which cost upwards
of a million of dollars, is in some places blasted through
solid rock, and in others walled up with hewn stone :
the masonry is admirably well executed. The workmen
threw bundles of lighted hay down the shaft, which
blazed as they descended, and which we saw fall into
the water, now not more than 250 yards from the
summit, and rising everyday. After failing in his
attaok on the city of Guanaxuato, Mina caused the
machinery of the mine of Valenciana to be burnt, and
the owners have not funds to renew it.
" From these mines we went to a shaft called Guade-

MEXICO. 1 1
loupe where we found two malacates in operation^
These machines are used to free mines from water, and
to draw up the ore. A malacate is a drum of about ten
feet in diameter, attached to a vertical spindle, a shaft
of fifteen feet long, which is shod with steel, and
turns in steel sockets. Poles project at right angles
from the shaft, to which the horses are harnessed.
Two ropes are passed round the drum, and over
pulleys supported by poles twelve feet high and about
ten feet apart, leading to the well. As the dram
turns, one rope descends, and the other is wound up,
and raises a large skin full of ore, or buckets of water,
by what the French call a chapelet. At the principal'
or octagonal shaft, eight malacates were kept con
stantly at work, night and day. Each malacate was
moved by twelve horses, and drew up, by a succession
of buckets, seventy-eight arrobas (975 quarts) every
nine or ten minutes : 95,000 arrobas, or 31,800 cu
bic feet of water, might be raised by this means every
twenty-four hours. It happened to be a sale day,
and in the same court where the malacates were
at work, we saw three or four hundred.people col
lected ; some exposing the ore to the best advan
tage, and others examining its quality. This mine
is now worked by halves, the workmen receiving
one half of the profits, and the owners of the mine
the other. The workmen were busily employed
in arranging the pieces of ore in parallelograms, com
posed of small circular heaps of ore. They were very
careful to place the richest pieces at top, and the
fairest side in sight. When all was prepared, the
salesman placed himself at the head of the first
parallelogram ; and the buyers, after examining the
quality of the ore, whispered in his ear the price they
were willing to give for it. When all had made their

12 MEXICO.
offers, he declared aloud the highest bid and the name
of the purchaser. A note was made of the sale, and
the whole party moved to the next parcel of ore, and
so on, until the whole was disposed of.
" There are two sale days in the week, Wednesday
and Saturday; and the weekly sales amount to be
tween 5 and 6,000 dollars."
On the following, day, our Traveller set out to visit
a hacienda de plata, belonging to the Conde de Valen
ciana, in the Canada de Marfil. " It is a spacious
building, divided into three large courts ; one for pre
paring the ores (patio pa. beneficiar), and the others
for horses and mules. The front is two stories high,
very neatly built, and forms an excellent dwelling-
house. From the house, we walked through the first
court, where men and mules were treading out masses
of mud, and entered a long: range of buildings, where
there were thirty-five mills at work grinding the ore.
" This hacienda, in prosperous times, works seventy
mills. They resemble bark -mills. A circle of about
eleven feet in diameter, is paved with stones set up
edgeways, and rubbed down to a smooth surface j in
the centre of the circle an upright shaft moves in
sockets. From this an axleprojects, and passes through
the centre of a millstone that rolls on its periphery:
to the end of. this axle the traces of the mules that
turn it axe attached. The first process is, separating
the ore from the stones and refuse. Women are em.
ployed in this work. They throw aside the stones
that have no ore, and -with a hammer chip off small
pieces of ore from those that have a little only on the
surface. They perform this operation with great skill
and great despatch. The ore is then placed on a thick
iron plate, and is pounded by wooden pestles shod with
iron, and moved hy a horizontal shaff furjiished with

MEXICO. 13
arms, like the movement of the pestles in our rice-
mills. Two men, stationed one on each side, draw
the ore from under the pestles upon plates that slope
down from the top, and are perforated with holes so
as to sift the pre as it falls on them. The large pieces
are thrown back under the pestles.
" After the ore is broken into very small pieces, it
is put into the mill, mixed with water, and ground to
an impalpable powder. A small quantity of quick
silver is sometimes mixed with this mass while in the
mill. From the mill;, the ore, ground to a powder
and moistened, is conveyed to the patio pa. beneficiar,
the open paved court-yard ; salt is then added in the
proportion of about two pounds to every hundred
weight of ore. If the mass, which is left untouched
for several days, heats too rapidly, lime is added,
which, the superintendant told us, cools it : if, on the
contrary, it continues cold, magistral is mixed with it,
in order to give it the proper temperature. The
magistral is a copper ore, or more properly a mixture
of pyrites of copper $nd sulphuretted iron, which is
roasted in a furnace, coolqd gradually, and then re
duced to a powder; a small quantity pf salt is after
wards mixed with it. A small quantity of the pow
dered magistral was put into ply hand, and water
poured upon it. The heat evolved was so great, that I
was obliged to throw it jtway instantly ; probably
owing to the sulphuric acid acting upon the metals
and disengaging heat,
" The next operation is, to add quicksilver to the
mass, commonly six times the quantity which it is sup
posed the mass contains of silver. This mixture of ore,
ground to a fine powder and moistened, of quicksilver,
muriate of soda, and the sulphates of iron and copper,
is made into an amalgam by being trodden by mules,

14 MEXICO.
which are driven round for hours together ; or by
men, who tread the mass with naked feet. We saw
both in one mass ; twelve mules were trotting round
up to their fetlocks in the mixture ; and in another,
ten men were following each other, and treading up
to their ankles in it. The superintendant examines
the appearance of the amalgam from time to time, by
taking up a little of it in a wooden bowl, and adds
either salt, quicksilver, or magistral, as he finds ne
cessary to complete the amalgamation.
" This process is repeated every other day until a
perfect amalgam is made, when it is conveyed into
large vats filled with water. In the centre of the vat
there is an upright shaft, furnished with arms and
turned by mules, so as to stir up the ore and ' mix it
well with the water. It is left to subside, and the
water is let off gently, carrying with it a portion of
earth, and leaving the amalgam, which is precipitated :
this process is repeated until the amalgamation is freed
from all extraneous matter. It is then moulded into
triangles, which are placed under stout iron recipients
Of a bell shape, and the mercury is separated by heat,
leaving the silver with a small portion of copper, not
enough for the usual alloy.
" One of the grindirig-mills, in which quicksilver
had been added to the mass, was emptied and cleaned
in my presence, in order to get out the amalgam, which
is precipitated, and lodges in the interstices of the
stones with which these mills are paved. After the
floating mass was removed, the stones were scraped,
and the crevices emptied. The contents were put
into a wooden bowl and washed. This amalgam, be
sides silver, contains a large portion of gold. The
ore of the mine of Valenciana contains some gold,
which unites with the quicksilver, and this amalgam,

MEXICO. 15
being so much heavier, is more quickly precipitated.
The bars of silver made from these cleanings, contain
always the largest portion of gold, and are kept
apart." The Sierra of Santa Rosa is the most southern dis
trict of that metalliferous tract of country which is
by far the richest in Mexico, and abounds more in
silver than any other on the face of the globe. This
central groupe, extending from lat. 21° 0' to 24° 10'
N., and from long. 102° 30' to 105° 15' W., is situ
ated under the same parallel as Bengal, but in a cli
mate partaking more of the character of the temperate,
than of the tropical zone. The mines of Guanaxuato
are only 30 leagues distant in a straight line from
those of San Luis Potosi : from the latter to Zacatecas,
the distance is 34 leagues ; from Zacatecas to Catorce
31 ; and from Catorce to Durango 74 leagues. The
mean produce of the mines of New Spain, annually ex
ported from Vera Cruz, is stated to have been two mil
lions and a half of marcs of silver, being two thirds of
the silver annually extracted from the whole globe. Of
this 2,500,000, not less than 1 ,300,000 was yielded by
Guanaxuato, Catorce, and Zacatecas, or the " central"
groupe. Guanaxuato, however, is not only a mining, hut an
agricultural district. " The lands are fertile, and are
cultivated to the base of the mountains ; and the
morals of the inhabitants of the country, who are
frugal and-industrious, form a strong contrast to those
of the miners, who, when the mines were in success
ful operation, were all. wealthy, and lived extrava
gantly, and many of whom are now in abject poverty."
The inhabitants of the city appeared to this Tra
veller lively, intelligent, and well-informed : he found
them extremely hospitable and friendly. In common,
c2

16 MEXICO.
however, with the inhabitants of most mining districts,
they are passionately fond of gambling. The com
mandant of the city was, moreover, a great amateur
of cock-fighting ; and our Traveller was not a little
annoyed, early in the morning, by the continual
crowing of more than a hundred cocks, the property
of this worthy person, which, tied by one leg, were
arranged along the pavement on both sides of the
street : they were to be exhibited at the ensuing
Christmas. " In all the towns and villages of Mex.
ico," he says, "cock-fighting is the favourite diversion
of the people. Rich and poor, men and women, fre
quent the pits, and stake sometimes all they are worth
on the issue of a battle between two cocks armed with
slashers." Guanaxuato is liable to two serious inconveniences
from its peculiarity of situation. During the :rainy
season, it is exposed to injury from the violent tor
rents that rush from the mountains down the barranea,
or ravine, in which the city stands, in their passage
to the plain of Celaya. Large sums have been ex
pended on works to restrain these torrents within a
channel, notwithstanding which, accidents happen
almost every year. On the other hand, the only
water in the city, is that which is contained in the
cisterns belonging to the wealthy inhabitants. About
two miles from the town, however, there are deep
ravines, whush, by means of dams, are made to serve
as reservoirs : the water is brought into the city on
the backs of asses, and sold at six cents a load.
We must now accompany the American Citizen on
hi s route

MEXICO. ir

FROM GUANAXUATO TO SAN LUIS POTOSI AND
ALTAMIRA.
At Guanaxuato our Traveller dismissed his car.
riage, ¦ and procured mules for the passage over the
mountains. The steep track which winds along the
ravines from Valenciana, is so broken and precipitous,
that goats, mules, and asses only can travel it with
safety. The sides of the mountains and ravines are
covered with a thick growth of small oaks, and the
city is supplied with fuel from these woods ; but the
want of good roads renders it an expensive article,
notwithstanding the extensive forests in the neigh.
bourhood. The hare summits of the hills are washed
into fantastic shapes, and the character of the
scenery is very wild and picturesque. The road for
three hours leads over this rugged solitude, till, having
reached the crest of the sierra, the traveller looks
down on the fertile valley of San Felipe, enclosed on
every side, like the basin of Anahuac, by a wall of
mountains. At its further extremity is seen the town
of San Felipe. " With this prospect constantly in
view," says the Writer, " we rode for nearly five
hours along the summit of the ridge, and then de
scended by a winding and steep path, to the village
of Rincon, where we arrived quite overcome with
fatigue. We obtained lodgings, with some difficulty,
in a room attached to a cottage. The inhabitants of
Rincon are goatherds and swineherds ; and at sunset,
the village was alive with the flocks and droves
coming in from the mountains."
Second day. — From Rincon to Xaral. The Author
set out at two o'clock in the morning, by a bright
moonlight: the cold was piercing. At sunrise, the

18 MEXICO,
houses and churches of San Felipe appeared as if rising
out of a lake, the effect of a mirage. This town ex
hibited a melancholy instance of the horrors of civil
war. Scarcely a house was entire, and except one
church that had been recently rebuilt, the whole town
appeared to be in ruins. The travellers halted in
the principal square, and passed through arches of
porphyry, into the court-yard of a building that had
once been magnificent, but the porticoes and ground-
floor alone remained. Soon after leaving San Felipe,
the road again begins to ascend the mountains by a
steep and rugged pass, called Puerto de San Bartolo.
On gaining the summit, " a painful' ascent of more
than an hour," another extensive and fertile plain is
seen, in the centre of which is the village or hacienda
of Xaral, where the travellers arrived a little before
four P.M. This is the place which was surprised and
plundered by the troops of Mina in the revolutionary
war.* Third day  Starting at three o'clock, the Author
reached at ten, the hacienda de la Pila, a very neat
village, where there are silver-works. An hour's ride
from this place brought him within sight of the spires
of San Luis, and at one he passed the suburbs.
SAN LUIS POTOSI.
" The whole country from La Pila to San Luis,
is cultivated like a garden ; but its beauty is destroyed
by mud-cabins and enclosures of cactus. The town
itself presents a fine appearance : the churches are
lofty, and some of them very handsome, and the
houses are of stone and neatly built. The government-
* See vol. L p. 121.

MEXICO. 19
house ih the square is not yet completed ; but the
front, which is of hewn stone, and ornamented with
Ionic pilasters, would do credit to any city in Europe."
The Carmelite convent is spacious and commodious,
with an extensive garden, which is cultivated with
great care, and kept in excellent order : the walks are
shaded with vines, and, the cloisters are ornamented
with orange and lemon-trees. The windows of the
convent command a beautiful prospect of the fertile
plain, terminated by a bold outline of mountains.
The church belonging to it is all tinsel and gilding,
and in wretched taste. The people of San' Luis ap
peared " better dressed and better looking " than in
any town which the Author had yet passed through,
and there were fewer beggars in its streets. Hum
boldt states the resident population at 12,000. The
American Traveller estimates it at 15,000, and adds,
that, including all the villages in its immediate vi
cinity, it amounts to three time's that number. It
stands in lat. 22° N, long.- 103° W.*
For three hours after leaving the city of San Luis,
the road lies eastward through a country but partially
cultivated, and overgrown with cactus and yucca arbo-
rescens, which give a gloomy appearance to the sce
nery. The fruit of the cactus (tuna) is here considered
as a great delicacy ; cattle are fed upon the leaves,
and the stem, which is about ten feet high, is used for
fuel. The soil of this tract is a " whitish clay ;"•)- and
when pulverised by the passage of mules, the dust is
intolerable. To the south of the road is the mountain
of San Pedro^ from which, in the rainy seasons, the
torrents bring down gold-dust. There was a mine
* Pike, p. 329. This Traveller states the population as high as
(J0.000. ' t Probably limestone.

20 MEXICO.
here formerly, which was filled up about forty years
ago through the caving.in of the galleries. At three
hours' distance from San Luis is the hacienda of
Laguna Seca, where the travellers halted for the
night. The same clayey soil and bare country continued the
whole of the next day's journey. In summer, however,
this arid plain is cohered with verdant pastures ; but
the inhabitants suffer inconvenience from want of wood.
At this season, (November,) the pools and tanks are
oftencoveredwith ice before day-light; but, about noon,
the heat is insufferable, and the change from the cold
of the morning renders it injurious to travel after that
hour. The third day, our Traveller reached the village
of San Isidro, having passed, early in the morning, the
hacienda of Peotillas, where Mina encamped the
night before he fought the most brilliant action of the
whole campaign. The chain of mountains which
contain the rich mines of Catorce, are distinguishable
far on the traveller's left. San Isidro stands in a
narrow valley on the eastern side of a limestone moun
tain covered with oaks. At six hours' distance from
this village is Quelitan, where the fourth day's journey
terminated, because there was no water within several
leagues of the place. There are no running streams,
and the only water is supplied by tanks and wells,
which are often distant from each other. The whole
tract, at this season of the year, is transformed into an
arid desert of drifting sand, and the south-western
wind is as parching as the sirocco. Nothing can be
more wretched than the habitations. They are huts
built of stones and mud, not more than five feet from
the ground, and thatched with yucca leaves, the earth-
floors covered with filth, and the walls black with
smoke, as there is no chimney. " I certainly," says

MEXICO. 21
the American, " never saw a negro house in Carolina
so comfortless." The people are very swarthy ; they
appear healthy and robust, and might enjoy every
comfort of life. The valley produces good crops of
maize; and a. species of agave which grows wild in the
mountains, yields them pulque and brandy, hemp^
and soap. In the evening, the village-well presented
a primitive scene : all. the girls repaired thither, each
with a small jar or pitcher on her shoulder, while
two men were seen drawing water for the cattle.
The fifth day, the Author halted at the village of
La Viga, a counterpart to Quelitan.; and on the next
day, after passing over the mountains of Norla,
reached the town of Tula, — " the fit capital of such a
country, badly built, and so gloomy, that not even the
crowd of well-dressed peasantry that filled the streets,
(it was Sunday,) could enliven its appearance. Tula
was formerly a mission, afterwards a presidio or fron
tier fortress, and is now called a town. The houses
are built of adobes, and it contains about ,1,500 inha
bitants. The men are well dressed in leather breeches
and jackets,: and most of ; them have shirts and stock
ings, and a manta thrown over their Shoulder. The
women are neatly dressed, and look clean andhealthy.
Their dress consists of a shifty one or more petticoats
of striped cotton stuff, and a shawl, which they throw
gracefully over their shoulder, and which they are
never without when in company. I have seen them
washing and coftking, very much distressed to manage
this part of their dress, but persevere in wearing it*
notwithstanding the inconvenience it put them to."
Soon after leaving Tula, the whole face of nature
becomes changed. The traveller descends by a winding
road into a fertile valley, cultivated with maize, scat
tered over with neat farm-houses, and intersected by

22 MEXICO.
Btreams of water. He proceeds through this valley for
three hours, and then crosses the range of hills which
enclose it on the east. A fine plain extends from their
summit, covered with verdure and skirted with woods
of oak, beyond which the traveller enters on the first
steep descent from the table-land towards the coast.
The road is here very precipitous, the scenery most
magnificent, embracing two ranges of mountains
towards the east, and the vegetation begins to assume
_, new character of luxuriance. It is a descent of
two hours and a half to the plain of Los Gallos. A
short ride (the next day) brought our Traveller to
the edge of the mountain of La Contadera, the second
descent towards the coast, which is still more steep
and difficult than that of Los Gallos. They had now
entered the tierra caliente, having passed the dividing
line where the inhabitants of the table-land begin to
suffer from the heat, and those of the coast to complain
of the cold. This day's journey terminated at the vil
lage of San Barbara, situated at the extremity of a
very extensive plain, in the midst of a grove of ever
greens. This place is renowned for its manufacture
of stamped leather for saddle covers and leggings. The
next day, the travellers descended in succession the
mountains of Chamal and Cucharras, by very preci
pitous tracks, and reached a rancho on the banks of
the river Limon. Fording this river, the water of
which came up to the saddle-girths, they soon left be
hind all appearance of luxuriant vegetation, and for
six hours passed over a parched and arid plain. In
two hours more, after crossing the river Raya de
Sargento, they reached the poor village of Orcasitas.
A sterile plain, over which they passed for five hours,
extends to the miserable rancho of Garizo. Another
day's journey of seven hours, still over a plain ahan.

MEXICO. 23
doned to vast herds of cattle, was terminated by
bivouacking at the edge of a deep wood. The next
day, the thirteenth from San Luis, a seven hours'
ride brought them to Altamira. But, " what a place
to be called Altamira !" is the Author's exclamation.
" The town consists of a, few tolerable houses in
the square, a church, a collection of thatched cottages,
and it commands a view of swamps and lagunes."
Both this place and Tampico are unhealthy, with this
difference, that here bilious fevers prevail, and there,
yellow fever. Tampico (Pueblo Viejo), which may
be considered as the port of the great river Tampico,
or Panuco, is about five leagues from the sea, on the
margin of a small lake : it is ill built, dirty, and
unhealthy, and yet, it is a place of some trade.
Here the American Traveller embarked for the Ha-
vannah. INTERIOR EASTERN PROVINCES.
The intendancy of San Luis Potosi, under the vice.
regal government, comprehended the whole of the
north-eastern part of the kingdom, including a sur
face of 27,800 square leagues, (larger than that of all
Spain,) but with a population not exceeding 334,900,
or twelve inhabitants to a square league. It had
upwards of 230 leagues of coast, an extent equal
to the whole line of coast from Genoa to Reggio
in Calabria ; but the whole of this coast remained
without commerce and without activity. The inten
dant had under his administration, 1. the province
of San Luis, extending from the river Panuco to
the river Santander; 2. the new kingdom of Leon
and the colony of New Santander, in the vice-royalty
of Mexico ; and 3. the provinces of Cohahuila and
Texas, which belonged to the captain-generalship
of the east. " But this immense country," says

24 MEXICO.
Humboldt,. " gifted by nature with the most precious
productions, and situated under a serene sky, in
the temperate zone towards the borders of the tropic,
is, for the most part, a wild desert, still more thinly
peopled than the governments of Asiatic Russia.''
The northern limits of the intendancy are indeter
minate. On the north-west, the mountainous tract
called the Bolson de Mapimi, including more than
3000 square leagues, is in the possession of wandering
and independent Indians, called Apaches, who occa
sionally make incursions to attack the colonists of
Cohahuila and Durango. On the north-east, the
provinces of New Santander and Texas border on (the
latter, in fact, chiefly consists of) disputed territory.
That part of the coast which extends along the Gulf
of Mexico, from the mouth of the great Rio del Norte
to the Rio Sabina, is still almost unknown,having never
been explored by navigators. According to Humboldt,
the eastern coast of Mexico presents everywhere similar
obstacles, — "a want of depth for vessels drawing more
than twelve feet and a half, bars at the mouths of the
rivers, necks of land, and long islets stretching in a di
rection parallel to the continent, whicli prevent all ac
cess to the interior basin. • The shores of Santander
and Texas, from the twenty-first to the twenty-ninth
parallel, are singularly festooned, and present a suc
cession of interior basins (or salt-water lakes) from
four to five leagues in breadth, and from forty to fifty
in length. Some of them (the laguna de Tamiagua,
* The harbour at the mouth of the Rio del Norte, however, said
to be the best on the coast, has never less than thirteen feet water
at its entrance, and as the tide here sometimes rises three feet, it
might admit vessels pf 400 tons. It is defended from the prevailing
storms by the island Malahuitas. The river is navigable forty
leagues up, and might be made so, with very little exertion, thirty
leagues higher. Such was the statement made by D. Miguel
Ramas de Arispe to the Cortes at Cadiz.

MEXICO. 25
for example) are completely shut in. Others (as the
laguna Madre and the laguna de San Bernardo)
communicate by several channels with the ocean.
The latter are of great advantage for a coasting trade,
as coasting vessels are there secure from the great
swells of the ocean." There can be little doubt that
these long and narrow islets are, as the learned
Traveller conjectures, bars or shoals, which have
gradually risen above, the mean level of the water ;
and that the Mexican coast resembles, in this respect,
the shores of Rio Grande do Sul, in Brazil. The port
of Tampico, however, although the bar prevents
the entry of vessels drawing more than twenty feet
water,* would still \>e preferable, Humboldt thinks, to
the dangerous anchorage among the shallows of Vera
Cruz ; and the climate, though unhealthy, has not
hitherto proved ?o prejudicial to the health of Euro
peans, or of the inhabitants of the table-land, as the
more southern port. A project was at one time
entertained for cutting a navigable canal from the
capital to Tampico. This would not be impracticable,
notwithstanding that the waters of the lake of Tez-
cuco are upwards of 7500 feet ahove the sea ; but,
as it would require at least 200 locks, it would not, in
the opinion of this Author, be advisable, land carriage
under such circumstances being preferable. It has
already been mentioned, that Tampico was one of the
four places thought of as a port for the commerce of the
capital, instead of Vera Cruz. Were the road ren
dered more practicable, it might, perhaps, attract
* Tbe Author of Notes on Mexico says, that the narrow channel
admits only vessels of eiglit feet draught. The bar, in blowing
weather, he says, is very dangerous i a heavy sea rolls on it. The
road-stead is open, and during the prevalence of north-western
tales, no ship can approach the land.

26 MEXICO.
a portion of the trade. At present, it is visited
chiefly by small vessels from the West Indies, which
come here to lay in provisions.
Sotto la Marina, near the bar of the river Santan
der, in lat. 23° 45' N., would seem to be by far
too distant from the capital to answer the purpose of a
port for its commerce ; and indeed, according to
•Mr. Robinson's description of it, it is less accessible
than Tampico. " The mouth of the river Santander,"
he says, " is very narrow, and has a bar across it,
over which vessels drawing more than six feet water
cannot be carried. Near the beach, the country
is intersected by shallow ponds, extending a long way
to the northward. After passing the bar, the river
suddenly widens, but afterwards gradually contracts
itself towards the town of So$to la Marina. It is
navigable for such vessels as can pass the bar, to
within a very short distance of the town, beyond
which it is too shallow even for boats. The village
(pueblo) of Sotto la Marina stands upon an elevated
situation, on the left bank of the river, eighteen
leagues from its mouth. The old settlement is but a
short distance up the river, on the road to the present
village."* Could the port be remedied, however,
this place would rise into importance, and would soon
attract a large portion of the commerce of San Luis
Potosi, Zacatecas, and Durango. It was here that
Mina disembarked his troops ; here too, Iturbide, by
a striking coincidence, landed, to meet a similar
fate. f
At present, Humboldt says, the province of New
Santander is so desert, that fertile districts - of ten
or twelve square leagues were sold there in 1802
* Ttobinson's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 14a t See vol. i. pp. 119, 157.,

MEXICO. 2?
for ten or twelve francs. Major Pike estimates the
population, of this province, which extends 500 miles
from north to south, and is about 150 in breadth,
at 38,000 souls. The whole of the northern part
of the intendancy of San Luis, that is to say, San
tander, New Leon, Cohahuila, and Texas, are very
low regions, with little undulation of surface. The
soil is covered with secondary and alluvial formations.
The climate is unequal, extremely hot in summer,
and equally cold in winter, when the north winds
prevail. That which hears the pompous title of the new
kingdom of Leon, is not above 250 miles in length ;
its population is estimated at 30,000 souls. Its capi
tal, Montelrey, situated on the head waters of the
Rio Tigre, in lat. 26° N. and long. 102° W., is
the seat of a bishop, whose diocese extends over
Santander, Leon, Cohahuila, and Texas.* The
population of the city is said to amount to 11,000,
or more than a third of the whole province. Major
Pike says : " There are many and rich mines near
this city, whence, I am informed, are taken one hun
dred mules' loads of bullion monthly, which may
be presumed to be not more than three-fifths of
what is drawn from the mines, there being many
persons who prefer never getting their metal coined."
The only other towns are Linares, between the Rio
Tigre and the great Rio Bravo del Norte ; and Saltelo,
where there is held an annual fair, at which an
immense quantity of merchandise is disposed of.
The province of Cohahuila (written by Major Pike,
Cogquilla), lies between lat. 23° and 31° 30' N. and

* It is afterwards stated, however, by Major Pike, that Coha
huila is in the diocese of Durango.

28 MEXICO.
long. 101° and 105° W. ; its greatest length being
500 miles, and its greatest width 200 miles. Monte-
love- (or MonClova), the residence of the governor, Is
the principal military depflt for Cohahuila and Texas.
It is situated on a small stream of water, in lati
26° 33' N., long. 103° 30' W. ; it is about a mile in
length; has two public squares, seven churches,
powder magazines, mills, barracks, and an hospital ;
and contains between 3 and 4000 inhabitants. " This
city," says Major Pike, " being the stated residence
of his excellency Governor Cordero, has been orna
mented by him with public walks, Columns, aiid
fountains, and made one of the handsomest cities
in the internal provinces." * There are some mine-
in the neighbourhood, but they are inconsiderable; At
Santa Rosti,, however, about thirty-eight miles to the
N.W.' of Montelovez, there are silver-mines, said to be
as rich as any in the. kingdom. This town is situated
on some of the head waters of the river Millada, in a
very healthy situation ; its population is estimated at
4,000 souls. Parras, in the same province, situated
on a small stream, is supposed to contain, with- its
suburbs, 7,000 souls, and San Lorenzo, a village
three miles to the north, contains about 500. Th.
district of Parras is the vineyard of Cohahuila ; the
name signifies vines or vine-branches ; and the whole
population are employed, in the cultivation of the
grape. " At the hacienda of San Lorenzo, where we
halted," says the American' Major, " were fifteen
large stills, arid larger cellars, and a greater number
of casks than I ever saw in any brewery in the
United States. Its gardens were delightfully inter
spersed with figs, vines, apricots, and a variety of
* Pike's Explor. Travels, p. 362.

MKXICO. 29
fruits which are produced in the torrid zone ; with fine
summer-houses, where were wine, refreshments, and
couches to repose on, and where the singing of
the birds was delightful. There were here, likewise,
mills, and a fine water-fall." * The presidio of Rio
Grande, situated on the river of that name, (the only
one of magnitude in the . province,) contains about
2,500 inhabitants ; and the total, population of Coha.
huila is estimated at 70,000 souls, not more than
10,000 of whom are Spaniards. The climate is de
scribed as pure and healthy, except about the middle
of May, when the heat is intense ; " and sometimes a
scorehing wind is felt, .like the flame issuing from
an oven or furnace, which frequently skins the face,
and affects the eyes. This phenomenon is more
sensibly felt about sunset, than at any other period of
the twenty-four hours." This province receives all
its merchandise from Mexico by land, and, in return,
gives horses, mules, wines, gold, and silver. The
large annual fair held at Saltelo, in New Leon^
is attended by the traders of Cohahuila. The vine is
the chief article of cultivation, together with grain and
corn sufficient for home consumption and for the sup
ply of the greater part of Texas.
The capital of Texas, St. Antonio de Bejar, is
Situated on the head waters of the river of that name,
(Humboldt says, between the Rio de San Antonio and
the Rio de los Nogales,) in lat. 29° 50' N., and long.
101° W. " It perhaps contains," Major Pike states,
" 2,000 souls, most of whom reside in miserable mud-
wall houses covered with thatch-grass roofs. The
town is laid out on a very grand plan : to the east .of
it, on the other side of the river, is the station of the
* Pike's Explor. Travels, p. 362.

30 MEXICO.
troops. About two, three, and four miles from
St. Antonio, are three missions, formerly flourishing
and prosperous. These buildings, for solidity, accom
modation, and even majesty, were surpassed by few
that I met with in" (the internal provinces of) " New
Spain.* Nacogdoches is merely a station for troops,
and contains nearly 500 souls : it is situated on a
small branch of the river Toyac. The population
of Texas may be estimated at 7000 : these are princi
pally Spanish Creoles, some French, some Americans,
and a few civilised Indians and half-breeds. This
province trades with Mexico by Montelrey and Mon-
telovez for merchandise, and with New Orleans by
Natchitoches ; but the latter, being contraband, is
liable to great damage and risks. They give in
return, specie, horses, and mules.'' Being on the
frontiers, where buffaloes, deer, elk, and wild horses
abound in great numbers, the inhabitants of Texas
lead, for the most part, the life of hunters, and agri
culture is but little attended to, except by a few
emigrants from the United States. The only mine
known and worked, is one of lead. This province is

* " The resident priest treated us with the greatest hospitality ;
he is respected and beloved. by all who know him. He made
a singular observation relative to the aborigines, who had formerly
composed the population of these establishments, under the charge
of the monks. I asked him what had become of the natives ; he
replied, that it appeared to him that they could not exist under the
shadow ofthe whites, as the nations who formed these missions had
been nurtured and taken all the care of that was possible, and put
on the same footing as the Spaniards ; yet, they had notwith
standing dwindled away, until the other two had become entirely
depopulated, and the one where he resided, had not more than
sufficient to perform his household labour. From this he had
formed an idea, that God never intended them to form one people,
but that they should always remain distinct and separate!!" —
Pike, p. 368.

MEXICO. 31
" well timbered" for one hundred miles from tlie
coast, with small prairies interspersed throughout the
woody country. " Taken generally," says this Tra
veller, " it is one of the richest, most prolific, and
best watered* countries in North America." It
is also one of the most delightful climates in the
world, and, where the ground has been sufliciently
cleared, not unhealthy. It possesses an extensive
internal navigation ; and, in fact, it is so desirable
a country, that it is not likely muclr longer to belong
to Mexico. According to the representations of the
congress of Washington, the whole of Texas properly
belongs to Louisiana.
In the distribution of Mexico into federal states,
the internal provinces of the earn far e already separated
from San Luis Potosi. Other changes must follow.
Humboldt, speaking of this vast tract of country,
remarks, that " its position on the eastern limits
of New Spain, the proximity of the United States,
the frequency of communication with the colonists of
Louisiana, and other circumstances, will probably
soon favour the progress of civilization arid prosperity
in these vast and fertile regions."
The only part of the intendancy of San Luis which
is mountainous, is that which borders on the province
of Zacatecas. Here are situated the rich mines of
* The principal rivers are, the river Guadalupe, with its
confluents, the Rio San Antonio and St. Mark, which discharges
itself into the N.W.'end of the bay of St. Bernard ; the Red River
(Rio Colorado), which rises in Cohahuila, in lat. 33° N. ; long.
104° 30' W., and, after a winding course of 600 miles, discharges
Itself in the bay of St. Bernard ; the river Brassos, which also rises
in Cohahuila, in lat. 34°, long. 105°, and falls into the Gulf of
Mexico, after a course of 700 miles,— it is the largest river in the
province; the river Trinity, with its confluents, the Natchez and
the Angelina, which discharges itself into Galveston bay ; the river
Toyac i and the " Sabine river."
paut m. n

32 MEXICO.
Charcas, Catorce, and Guadalcazar, which belong
to the " central groupe" that has yielded so large
a proportion of the silver of Mexico. " The mineral
repository of Catorce," says Humboldt, " holds at
present the second or third rank among the mines of
New Spain, classing them according to the quantity
of silver which they produce. It was only discovered
in the year 1778. This discovery, and that of the
veins of Gualgayoc in Peru, (vulgarly called the veins
of Chota,) are the most interesting in the history
of the mines of Spanish America for the last two cen
turies. The small town of Catorce (the true name of
which is la Purissima Concepcion de Alamos de
Catorce), is situated on the calcareous table-land,
which declines towards the new kingdom of Leon and
the province of Santander. From the bosom of these
mountains of secondary compact limestone rise up
masses of basalt and porous amygdaloid, which
resemble volcanic productions, and contain plivijie,
zeolite, and obsidian. A great number of veins of
small extent, and very variable in their breadth
and direction, traverse the limestone, which itself
covers a transition clay -slate. The minerals are gene
rally found in a state of decomposition. They are
wrought with the mattock, pick-axe, and bore (poin-
trole). The consumption of powder is much less
than at Guanaxuato and at Zacatecas. These mines
possess also the great advantage of being almost
entirely dry, so that they have no need of costly
machinery to draw off the water.* In 1773, Sebas
tian Caronado and Antonio Lianas, two very poor
individuals, discovered veins in a situation now called
Cerro de Catorce Viejo, on the western slope of
* This, it will be seen presently, has proved to be incorrect.

MEXICO. 33
the Pichaco de la Variga de Plata. They began to
work these veins, which were poor and inconstant in
their produce. In 1778, Don Barnabe Antonio de
Zepeda, a miner of the Ojo del Agua de Matchuala,
investigated, during three months, this groupe of arid
and calcareous mountains. After attentively examin
ing the ravines, he was fortunate enough to find
the crest or surface of the veta grande, on which
he immediately dug the pit of Guadalupe. He drew
from it an immense quantity of muriate of silver, and
colorados mixed with native gold, and gained in a
short time more than 100,000.. sterling. From that
period, the mines of Catorce were wrought with
the greatest activity. That of Padre Flores alone
produced, in the first year, upwards of 350,000.. ster
ling ; but the vein displayed great riches only from
160 to 320 feet of perpendicular depth. The famous
mine of Purissima, belonging to Colonel Obregon, has
scarcely ever ceased since 1788 to yield annually, a net
profit of 40,0001. sterling ; and its produce in 1796,
amounted to 1,200,000 piastres, while the working-
did not amount to more than 80,000. The vein
of Purissima, which is not the same with that
of Padre Flores, sometimes reaches the extraordinary
extent of 130 feet ; and it was worked in 1802 to the
depth of nearly 1,600 feet. Since 1798, the value
of the minerals of Catorce has singularly diminished :
the native silver is now rarely to be seen ; and the
metales colorados, which are an intimate mixture
of muriate of silver, earthy carbonate of lead, and
red ochre, begin to give place to pyritous and coppery
minerals. The actual produce of these mines is nearly
260,0001b. troy of silver annually." *
Since the period or Humboldt's visit, however,
* Pol. Essay, vol. iii. pp. 209—12.

34 MEXICO.
these rich mines have become filled with water. " In
order to render them once more productive," we are
told, " the owners, the family of Obregon, have made
an arrangement with an English commercial house, by
which they agree to give up one-half of their right
and title, on condition of having them freed from
water. For this purpose, a steam-engine of one hun
dred horse power has been brought from England ;
the greater part of which, after several months'
labour, is still at the foot of the mountains. It is said,
that coal has been discovered not far from this mine."*
SAN ELAS.
Mention has already been made, in the description
of the Baxio, of the Bay of San Bias, in which the
river Santiago has its outlet. That port, hitherto
but little known, yet, next to Acapulco, the most im
portant on the western coast, bids fair to become of
considerable consequence. The rich products of Gua
naxuato and Guadalaxara can, by means of the San
tiago, be most easily transported to the coast ; and
those provinces can be supplied with Asiatic merchan
dise at a cheaper rate by the same route.
The Conway, commanded by Captain Basil Hall,
was the first English man-of-war that had ever an-
* When Mr. Bullock was in Mexico, the whole had safely ar
rived, and he heard in connexion with it the following anecdote.
The engine for draining the mine being drawn one evening to the
mouth of the shaft, the mine was plumbed, to ascertain the depth
of water. The same process was repeated the next morning, when,
from some unknown cause, the water had sunk several feet. The
natives, who were attracted in vast numbers, exclaimed in astonish
ment, that now they were convinced the English were gods, and
had power to control the metals, since merely drawing the engine
to the mouth of the mine had caused the water to sink so many
feet! The English house alluded to is that of Messrs. Gordon
and Murphy.

MEXICO. 35
chored in the port of San Bias. Although the distance
from Acapulco is not more than 500 miles, it took
sixteen days to make the passage. * The town is
perched, like an eagle's nest, on the top of a rock
150 feet high, absolutely precipitous on three sides, and
very steep on the fourth ; rising out of a low, swampy
plain, which, in the rainy season, is laid completely
under water, and is overflowed to a considerable ex
tent by the sea at spring-tides. The fine season lasts
from December to May inclusive. " During that in
terval," says Capt. Hall, " the sky is always clear ;
no rain falls ; land and sea-breezes prevail ; and, as
there is then no sickness, the town is crowded with
inhabitants. From June to November, a very dif
ferent order of things takes place. The heat is greatly
increased ; the sky becomes overcast ; the sea and
land-breezes no longer blow ; but, in their stead, hard
storms sweep along the coast, and excessive rains de.
luge the country ; with occasional violent squalls of
wind, accompanied by thunder and lightning. During
this period, San Bias is rendered uninhabitable, in
consequence of the sickness, and of the violence of
the rain ; which not only drenches the whole town,
but, by flooding the surrounding country, renders the
rock on which the town is built, literally an island.
The whole rainy season, indeed, is sickly, but more
* This was reckoned a good passage for the month of March.
In the latter days of December, it has been made in ten days.
Capt. Hall mentions a case in which a merchant brig was a fort
night in reaching Cape Corrientes from the time of passing Aca
pulco at the distance of 150 miles, and nearly three weeks after
wards in getting to San Bias, a distance of only 70 miles. The
coast between Cape Corrientes, and San Bias is full of deep and
dangerous rocky bights, is little known, and ought not to be ap
proached. Cape Corrientes is in lat. 20° 24' 32" N.; long. 105°
42' 26" W. San Bias Is in lat. 21° 32' 24"; long. 105° 18' 27" W.
.2

36 MEXICO.
especially so towards the end, when the rains become
less violent and less frequent ; while the intense heat
acts with mischievous effect on the saturated soil, and
raises an atmosphere of malaria, such as the most
seasoned native cannot breathe with impunity.
" This being invariably the state of the climate,
nearly all the inhabitants abandon the town as soon
as the rainy season approaches. As we had often
heard this migration described, we waited, with some
curiosity, for the arrival of the appointed time ; and,
accordingly, towards the end of May, had the satis
faction of seeing the great flight commence. I shall
never forget the singular nature of the scene which
was presented to us. All the world began to move
nearly at the same time ; the rich and the poor
streamed off indiscriminately together. The high
road to Tepic was covered with horses, loaded mules,
and foot passengers, winding along the plain on their
way to the interior. On passing through the streets,
we saw people everywhere fastening up their windows,
locking their doors, and marching off with the keys^
leaving the greater part of their property behind
them, unguarded by any thing but the pestilence of
the climate. The better classes rode away on horse
back, leaving their baggage to follow on mules ; but
the finances of the greater part of the inhabitants did
not admit of this ; and we saw many interesting family
groupes, where the very aged and the very young people
were huddled on mules, already loaded with goods
and with furniture, while the men and the women,
and the stouter children, walked by their sides ;  a
scene from which a painter might have collected in
numerable subjects of interest.
" A city without people. is at any time a strange
and anomalous circumstance ; but it seemed peculiarly

MEXICO. 37
so to us, by our friends leaving us day by day ; till,
at length, we found ourselves comparatively alone in
the deserted town. The governor and his family, and
one or two other ofiicers of government, with a few
shopkeepers, remained till our departure ; but, with
these exceptions, the inhabitants had nearly all gone
before we sailed. There are, it is true, always a few
people, who, for high pay, agree to watch valuable
property, and some families so miserably destitute,
that they absolutely have not the means of removing.
The population of the town, in the fine season, is
about 3,000, but the number which remains to brave
the climate, seldom exceeds 150."
The commencement of the rains, as witnessed by
this Traveller, is described with graphic force and
ipirit in the following paragraphs.
" This day (June 1, 1822) broke with an unwonted
.loom overshadowing everything : a dense, black haze
_sted like a high wall round the horizon ; while the
*'.pper sky, so long without a single speck, was stained
'J over with patches of shapeless clouds flying in dif
ferent directions. As the sun rose, he was attended
oy vapours and clouds, which concealed him from our
sight. The sea-wind, which used to begin gently,
and then gradually increase to a pleasant breeze, came
on suddenly and with great violence ; so that the
waves curled and broke into a white sheet of foam as
/ar as the eye could reach. The sea looked bleak and
itormy under the portentous influence of an immense
mass of dark clouds, rising slowly in the western
quarter, till they reached nearly to the zenith, where
i.hey continued suspended like a mantle during the
whole day. The ships which heretofore had lain mo-
ionless on the surface of the bay, were now rolling
and pitching with. their cables stretched out to sea-

38 MEXICO.
ward ; while the boats that used to skim along from
the shore to the vessels at anchor, were seen splashing
through the waves under a reefed sail, or struggling
hard with their oars to evade the surf, breaking and
roaring along the coast. The flags that were wont to
lie idly asleep by the sides of the mast, now stood
stiffly out in the storm. Innumerable sea-birds con.
tinued during all the day, wheeling round the rock
on which the town stood, and screaming as if in terror
at this sudden change. The dust of six months' hot
weather, raised into high pyramids, was forced by
furious gusts of wind into the innermost corners of
the houses. Long before sunset, it seemed as if the
day had closed, owing to the darkness caused by the
dust in the air, and to the sky being overcast in every
part by unbroken masses of watery clouds. Presently
lightning was observed amongst the hills, followed
shortly afterwards by a storm exceeding in violence
anything I ever met with. During eight hours, de
luges of rain never ceased pouring down for a moment :
the steep streets of the town soon became the channels
of continued streams of such magnitude, as to sweep
away large stones ; rendering it everywhere dangerous,
and in some places quite impossible to pass. The rain
found its way through the roofs, and dreJSsKed every
part of the houses ; the deep rumbling noise of the
torrents in the streets never ceased ; the deafening
loudness of the thunder, which seemed to cling round
the rock, became distracting ; while the continued
flashes of the forked lightning, which played in the
most brilliant manner from the zenith to the horizon
on all sides, were at once beautiful and terrific. I
never witnessed such a night.
" As the next day broke, the rain ceased ; and
during all the morning there was a dead calm : the

MEXICO. 39
air was so sultry that it was painful to breathe it ;
and though the sky remained overcast, the sun had
power to raise up clouds of steam, which covered the
whole plain as far as the base of the mountains.
" No very violent rain fell after this furious burst,
till the evening of the 4th of June, when the periodical
wet season set in. During the mornings, it was gerie-
rally clear and fair ; but about half past three or four
o'clock, the sky became rapidly overcast, and at five
the rain began : though it was seldom before eight,
that it fell in the torrents I have described, or that
the thunder and lightning commenced with great
violence." San Bias would be scarcely habitable during what
is termed the fine season, were it not for the regular
alternation of the sea and land-breezes which prevail at
that time.* " Between ten and eleven o'clock in the
morning," says Capt. H., " the sea-breeze begins to set
in. None but those who have felt the bodily and mental
exhaustion caused by the hot nights and sultry morn
ings of low latitudes, can form a just conception of the
delicious refreshment of this wind. For some time be
fore it actually reaches the spot, its approach is felt and
joyfully hailed by people who, a few minutes before,
appeared quite subdued by the heat, but who now
acquire a sudden animation and revival of their facul
ties ; a circumstance which strangers, who have not
learned to discover the approach of the sea-breeze, are
often at a loss to account for. When it has fairly set
in, the climate in the shade is delightful ; but, in the
sun, it is scarcely ever supportable at San Bias. Be
tween three and four o'clock, the sea-breeze generally
* The burning shores of Asia Minor are in like manner pre
served from depopulation by a similar phenomenon — See Modern
Traveller, Sifi-ia, ,c„ vol. ii. p. 106.

40 MEXICO.
dies away; it rarely lasts till five. The oppression
during the interval of calm which succeeds between
this period and the coming ofthe land-wind, baffles all
description. The flat-roofed houses, from having been
all day exposed to the sun, resemble ovens ; and as it
is many hours before they part with their heat, the
inhabitants are sadly baked before the land-wind
comes to their relief.
" During the morning, the thorough draft of air,
even when the sun is blazing fiercely in the sky, keeps
the rooms tolerably cool ; but, when the breeze is gone,
they become quite suffocating. The evil is heightened
most seriously by clouds of mosquitoes, and, what are
still more tormenting, of sand-flies, an animal so
diminutive, as scarcely to be distinguished till the eye
is directed to the spot they settle upon, by the pain of
their formidable puncture. San Bias, as mentioned
before, is built on the top of a rock, standing in a level,
swampy plain. During ordinary tides in the dry
season, this plain is kept merely in a. half-dried,
steaming state ; but at spring-tides, a considerable
portion of it is overflowed. The effect of this inunda
tion is to dislodge from the swamp, myriads of mos
quitoes, sand-flies, and other insects, which had been
increasing and multiplying on the surface of the mud
during the low tides. These animals, on being dis
turbed, fly to the first resting-place they can find;
and the unhappy town of San Bias, being the only
conspicuous object in the neighbourhood, is fairly en
veloped, at the full and change of the moon, in a cloud
of insects, producing a plague, the extent of which, if
properly described, would scarcely be credited by the
inhabitants of a eld climate. The most seasoned
native fared in this instance no better than ourselves ;
and we sometimes derived a perverse sort of satisfac-

MEXICO. 41
tion from this companionship in misery, and laughed
at seeing them rolling about from chair to chair,
panting under the heat, and irritated into a fever, by
the severe and unintermitted attacks of their inde
fatigable tormentors. I cannot say which was worst,
the unceasing buzz and fierce sting of the mosquito, or
the silent but multiplied assaults of the sand-flies,
which came against the face, as I heard a miserable
man exclaim- one evening, like handfuls of sand.
Mosquito curtains offered no defence against these in
visible foes, so that there was nothing for it but to
submit. It is perhaps worthy of remark, that those
persons invariably suffered most, who were least tem
perate in their diet ; and that the water-drinkers
(that rare species) were especially exempted from the
feverish discipline of these attacks. It was perfectly
out of the question to try to get any sleep before the
land-wind set ; but this often deceived us, and at best
seldom came before midnight, and then it blew over
the hot plain, and reached us loaded with offensive
vapours from the marsh ; but this was nothing, as it
served to disperse the sandrflies, and gradually ac
quired a degree of coolness, which allowed us to drop
asleep towards morning — worn out with heat, vexa
tion, and impotent rage."
San Bias was, under the vice-regal administration,
the residence of the Departimiento de Marina (marine
department), and the chief dock-yards and magazines
being here, it might be regarded as the Portsmouth
of Mexico. The official people, however, Humboldt
says, resided at Tepic, a small town in a more salu
brious climate. Captain Hall, on finding that the mer
chants, both English and Spanish, lived, some at
Tepic, and others at the provincial capital, Guada-
laxara, determined on proceeding to the former place,

42 MEXICO.
in order to ascertain how far he might be able to con
tribute to advance the interests of the British trade in
that quarter. The first part of the journey lay across
low swamps, covered with brushwood, and enveloped
(in March) in creeping mists. In the course of " a
few hours," the road begins to ascend the hills, which
are richly wooded : festoons of innumerable parasitical
plants, extending from tree to tree, wave gracefully
above the impervious underwood, which totally con
ceals the ground, giving the forest the appearance of
an Indian jungle. The traveller passes several villages
of huts built of canes, with peaked roofs rising to twice
the height of the walls, thatched with the large, leafy
branches of the cocoa-palm, fastened down with rat
tans. About half way to Tepic is the village of
Fonsequa. The rest of the journey lies through a
thick forest, along wild mountain paths, the road con
tinually on the ascerit ; and to the European, the
sensible change in the temperature becomes most in
spiriting. The mountain scenery is described as
highly magnificent. Capt. Hall passed the night in a
hut, and by day-break next morning, after travelling
over some hills, he came in sight of Tepic, beautifully
situated in the midst of a cultivated plain.
TEPIC.
This town, the second in importance in this in-
tendancy, is situated nearly in the centre of a basin,
or valley, formed by an irregular chain of volcanic
mountains. Its appearance is rendered very lively by
rows of trees, gardens, and terraced walks intermixed
with the houses, all kept green and fresh by the
waters of the river which washes the town on three
sides. A broad, public walk, nearlv half a mile in

MEXICO. ' 43
length, .shaded by four or five rows of chesnut-trees,
leads to the church of La Santa Cruz, which stands
in a little hollow behind a small grassy knoll, in a
secluded and picturesque situation. It belongs to a
convent. Hither, about an hour before sunset, appa
rently the whole female population repair, in family
groupes, to attend the evening service. " The ladies
of Tepic," Capt. Hall says, " have already learned to
dress in the European style ; of course some years be
hind in the fashion, but without any thing peculiar to
describe. The women of the lower class wore lively
coloured gowns, and scarfs called reboxos, generally of
a blue and white pattern, not printed, but woven.
The dress of the lowest class was of cotton only ; that
of the others was a mixture of cotton and silk, and
that of the richest people entirely of silk ; the whole
being of the manufacture of the country. The gen
tlemen wear low-brimmed, brown hats, encircled by a
thick gold or silver band, twisted up like a rope.
When mounted, every gentleman carries a sword, not
belted round him, as with us, but thrust, in a slanting
direction, into a case made for the purpose in the left
flap of the saddle, so that the sword lies under, not
over the thigh, while the hilt rises nearly as high as
the pommel of the saddle, where it is more readily
grasped, in case of need, than when left dangling; by
the side. The saddle rises abruptly four or five inches,
both before and behind, in order, as I was told, to
give the rider support both in going up and down the
very steep roads of the country. On each side 6f the
saddle, before the knees, hangs a large skin of some
shaggy-coated animal, reaching nearly to the ground :
in wet weather, these skins are drawn over the rider's
legs, while what is called the mangas covers the body.:
This is a cloak exactly resembling the poncho of th_

44 MEXICO.
south, being of an oblong form, with _. hole in the
middle to receive the head. In Mexico, these cloaks
are generally made of fine cloth, richly ornamented
round the neck with gold embroidery. The stirrups
are made of wood, taken no doubt from the Spanish
box-stirrup, but they are more neatly made than in
Spain, and are lighter, and fit the foot better. Every
gentleman rides with a pair of silver spurs of immode
rate length and weight ; and, instead of a whip, holds
in his hand a long and curiously twisted set of thongs,
which are merely a tapered continuation of the slerider
. strips of hide of which the bridle is made, plaited into
a round cord."
This sprightly writer gives an amusing description
of a tertulia, or evening party, which will serve to
illustrate the state of manners in Mexico at this
period, among the Spanish residents.
" Across the upper end of a large room, and for
some distance along the sides, were seated the ladies,
about twenty in number, in a compact line, and glued
as it were to the wall. Sometimes in the course of
the evening, a gentleman succeeded in obtaining a
station amongst the ladies, but he was generally an
intimate acquaintance or a very determined stranger.
In each corner of the room was placed a small stone
table, on which stood a dingy tallow-candle, the feeble
glimmer of which gave a dismal light to the room ;
but, by an incongruity characteristic of the country,
the candlestick was large and handsome, and made of
massy silver. Behind the light, in a glass case, was
displayed an image of the Virgin, dressed up as
Nuestra Senora de Guadaloupe, the patron saint of
Mexico, almost suffocated with a profusion of tawdry
artificial flowers. The line of ladies on one side
reached to the door, and, on the side opposite, to a

MEXICO. 45
table about half-way along the room, on which were
placed wine and water, gentlemen's hats and ladies'
Shawls. Against one of the corner tables rested a
guitar ; and it seldom happened that there was not
some person present, ready to play a popular tune, or
to accompany the ladies, many of whom sung very
prettily. This occasional music went on without in
terrupting the conversation ; indeed, the sound of the
guitar amongst the Spaniards or their descendants, is
so familiar, that it acts more as a stimulus, a sort of
accompaniment to conversation, than as an interrup
tion. At the further end of the room was » card-
table, where most of the gentlemen played at a game
called monte. The space in the middle of the room
seemed to be allotted as a play-ground for the children
of the house, and those of many removes in consan
guinity. The nurses too, and the old servants of the
family, used the privilege of walking in and out ; and
sometimes they addressed such of the company as hap
pened to be seated near the door. It may be remarked
here, that, in all those countries, a degree of familiarity
is allowed between the servants and their superiors,
of which in England there is no example in any rank
of life.
" The entrance to the room was from a deep veran
dah, or, more properly speaking, -a passage open to
the court and flower-garden in the centre of the qua
drangle forming the house.
" It occurred to me during the evening, that if a
person were suddenly transported from England to this
party, he might be much puzzled to say where he had
got to. On entering the house, by an approach not
unlike the arched gateway of an inn, he would turn
irito the verandah, where he would in vain inquire
his way from one of the boys playing at bo-peep round

46 MEXICO.
the columns, or scampering in the moon-light amongst
the shrubs in the centre of the court ; nor would he
gain more information from the girls, who would
draw up and become as prim and starch as possible
the moment they beheld a stranger ; they would pout
at him, and transfix him with their coal-black eyes,
but would not utter a single word. Mustering cou
rage, he might enter the sala or drawing-room ; in an
instant, all the gentlemen would rise and stand before
their chairs like statues ; but as neither the mistress
of the house, nor any other lady, ever thinks of rising,
in those countries, to receive or take leave of a gentle
man, our friend would be apt to conceive his reeeption
somewhat cold. He could have no time to make
minute remarks, and would scarcely notice the un
evenly paved brick-floor — the bare plastered walls — .
the naked beams of the roof, through which the tiles
might be counted : indeed, the feebleness of the light
would greatly perplex his observations. The elegant
dresses, the handsome looks, and the lady-like appear
ance of the women, would naturally lead him to ima
gine he was in respectable company ; but, when he
discovered all the ladies smoking segars, and heard
them laughing most obstreperously, and screaming out
their observations at the top of their voices, he would
relapse into his former doubts ; especially when he
remarked the gentlemen in boots and cloaks, and some
with their hats on. Neither would his ideas be cleared
up by seeing the party at the other end of the room
engaged in deep play, amidst a cloud of tobacco smoke.
And were he now as suddenly transported back again
to his own country, it might be difficult to persuade
him that he had been amongst an agreeable, amiable,
and well-bred people — in the very best society  in
the Grosvenor Square, in short, of the city of Tepic !"

MEXICO. "47
The Indians here appeared to Captain Hall a small
and feeble race of men. He saw a party of them who
had come from the interior to purchase maize and
other articles. " Each of them carried a bow, and
about two dozen of arrows, and wore in his girdle
a long, broad knife. Their dress was a coarse cotton
shirt, made of cloth manufactured by themselves, and
a pair of leather small-clothes, loose at the knees, and
fringed with a line of tassels, and short ' strips of
leather, each being intended to represent some article
belonging to the wearer: one being his horse, another
his bow, another larger and more ornamental standing
for his wife, and so on. The most striking cir
cumstance, however, was, that all these Indians wore
feathers round their heads, precisely in the manner
represented in the cuts which embellish the old
accounts of the conquest. Some had tied round their
straw hats a circle of red flowers, so much resembling
feathers, that it was not easy to distinguish between
the two. Several of them wore necklaces of white
beads made of bone, the distinctive mark, as we
were told, of being married. A little old man of
the party, who seemed. much entertained by our
curiosity, begged our attention to a rod about two
feet long, which he carried in his hand, and to the
skin of a little bird of brilliant plumage, suspended at
his left knee ; these two symbols, he gave us to under.
stand, belonged to him as chief of the village. The
only woman of the party stood apart, wrapped in a
coarse kind of blanket, holding the bridles of the
mules. At first, they were rather alarmed at the
interest we took in their dress and appearance, and,
as they did not understand Spanish, shrunk back
from us. But an obliging person in the market
place stepped forward to act as interpreter, which

48 MEXICO.
soon reassured them, and they came round us after
wards with confidence ; yet, it was with great reluc
tance they parted with their bows and arrows, and
their feathered ornaments. The old man could not
be prevailed upon to part with his rod of authority,
or his official bird ; neither could we induce them
to sell, at any price, that part of their dress to which
the inventory of their goods and chattels was ap
pended." These appear to have been a party of cacique
Indians ; but to what tribe they belonged, is not
stated. Their bows and arrows resembled, we are
told, those of school-boys, rather than the arms of
men. At Tepic, as well as at San Bias, our Traveller
found it disagreeably hot during the day ; * but at
night, the thermometer fell from fifteen to twenty
degrees. During the middle of the day, no one can
stir abroad. One o'clock is the invariable' dinner
hour, and from two to half -past three or four, " all
the world" are taking their siesta, and the streets are
literally deserted. After that hour, riding or walking
parties are formed ; and in the evening, every house
is ready to receive visiters. The ladies receive com
pany also about ten o'clock in the forenoon, either in
the principal bed-chamber, or in the sala.
Captain Hall, while at Tepic, witnessed the opening
of a Mexican bee-hive, which differs so essentially
in its construction and materials from that of the
English bee, that the description is highly acceptable.
" The hive is generally made out of a log of wood
from two to three feet long, and eight or ten inches in
* At San Bias, throughout the day, it was generally, in the
coolest part of the shade, about 00° ; sometimes, for several hours,
05°. At night, the thermometer stood generally between 80°
and 85°.

MEXICO. 49
diameter, hollowed out, and closed at the ends by
circular doors, cemented closely to the wood, but
capable of being removed at pleasure. Some persons
use cylindrical "hives made of earthenware, instead
of the clumsy apparatus of wood ; these are relieved
by raised figures and circular rings, so as to form
rather handsome ornaments in the verandah of a
house, where they are suspended by cords from the
roof, in the same manner that the wooden ones in the
villages are hung to the eaves of the cottages. On
one side of the hive, half-way between the ends, there
is a small hole made, just large enough for a loaded
bee to enter, and shaded by a projection to prevent
the rain from trickling in. In this hole, generally
representing the mouth of a man, or some monster,
the head of which is moulded in the clay of the
' hive, a bee is constantly stationed ; whose office is no
sinecure, for the hole is so small, he has to draw back
every time a bee wishes to enter or to leave the hive.
A gentleman told me, that the experiment had been
made, by marking the sentinel ; when it was observed,
that the same bee continued at his post a whole day.
When it is ascertained by the weight, that the hive is
full, the end pieces are removed, and the honey
withdrawn. The hive we saw opened, was only
partly filled ; which enabled us to see the economy
of the interior to more advantage. The honey is
not contained in the elegant hexagonal cells of our
hives, but in wax bags, not quite so large as an egg.
These bags, or bladders, are hung round the sides
of the hive, and appear about half full, the quantity
being probably just as great as the strength of the
wax will bear without tearing. Those near the
bottom, being better supported, are more filled than
the upper ones. In the centre of the lower part

50 MEXICO.
of the hive, we" observed an irregular-shaped mass
of comb, furnished with cells, like those of our bees,
all containing young ones, in such an advanced state,
that when we broke the comb and let them out, they
flew merrily away. During this examination of the
hive, the comb and the honey were taken out, and the
bees disturbed in every, way ; but they never stung
us, though our faces and hands were covered with
them. It is said, however, that there is a bee in the
country which does sting ; but the kind we saw, seem
to have neither the power nor the inclination, for
they certainly did not hurt us ; and our friends said,
they were always ' muy manso,' very tame, and
never stung any one. The honey gave out _. rich
aromatic perfume, and tasted differently from ours,
but possessed an agreeable flavour." *
Humboldt mentions the mines of Guichichila, near
Tepic, as among the most celebrated in this inten-
dancy ; but Captain Hall does not appear to have
made any inquiry on the subject.
GUADALAXARA.
The intendancy of Guadalaxara formed, together
with Zacatecas, the kingdom of New Gallicia. It is,
in itself, almost twice the extent of Portugal, with
a population five times smaller. The number of
inhabitants in 1803, was 630,500, being 66 to the
square league. It is bounded, on the north by Sonora
and Durango ; on the east, by Zacatecas and Guanax-

* Humboldt mention's a bee peculiar to the New Continent, said
to be destitute of a sting, on which account they have received the
name of angelitos (little angels). The learned Traveller supposes,
however, that the organ L not wanting, but that the sting is weak
and not very sensible.

MEXICO. 51
uato ; on the south, by Valladolid ; and on the west,
for a length of coast of 123 leagues, by the Pacific.
Its extreme breadth, from San Bias to the town of
Lagos, is 100 leagues, and its extent of surface is com
puted to be 9,612 square leagues. It is traversed
from east to west by the Rio Grande de Santiago,
•which communicates with the great lake of Chapala,
nearly 160 square leagues in extent, being double the
size of the lake of Constance. This intendancy was
reckoned one of the richest and most luxuriant in the
vice-royalty. All the eastern part is formed by the
table-land and western declivity of the Cordillera.
The maritime regions are covered with forestsj which
abound with timber fit for ship-building. The interior
enjoys a fine and temperate climate. The value of
its agricultural produce amounted, in 1802, to
2,600,000 piasters (about 560,000..) ; and it. manu-
Jactures of woollens, calicoes, tanned hides, and soap,
were estimated at 3,302,200 piasters (about 700,000..),
or nearly half of the total value of the manufactures
of New Spain.* Up to 1765, it exported cotton and
wool to maintain the activity of the raanufactures
of Puebla, Queretaro, and San Miguel ; but since
that period, manufactories have been established at
Guadalaxara, Lagos, and the neighbouring towns.
Its mines form the sixth groupe in Humboldt's
enumerationyf but^ with regard to the quantity of
money actually drawn from them, the mines of
Bolanos rank next to those of the Real del Monte,
the central groupe of Guanaxuato, Catorce, and Zaca
tecas being alone superior to either. The mines

* This is estimated by Humboldt at between 7 and 8/000,000 of
piasters. — Fol, Essay, vol. iii. p. 460.
t See vol. i. p. 318.
E2

52 MEXICO.
of Guadalaxara extend from lat. 21" 5' to 22" 30' N.,
and from long. 105° to 106° 30' W. The most cele
brated are those of Bolajhos, Asientos de Ibarra, Hos-
tiotipaquillo, Copala, and Guichichila. The intend-
ancy contains two cities, six towns, and 322 vil
lages. Guadalaxara, the provincial capital, and formerly
the seat of the audiencia of New Gallicia, is seated on
the left bank of the Rio de Santiago, in lat. 20° 50' N.,
long. 105° W.* It was founded in 1551, and in
1570, was created an episcopal city, the see of Com-
postella being transferred to this place. As the resi
dence at once of the audiencia, the intendant, and the
bishop, and possessing some flourishing manufactures,
it would seeiri likely to have been from the first a con
siderable place ; yet, Humboldt states the population
in 1803, at only 19,500. If this be correct, its in
crease since that period must have been almost unpre
cedented. While the population of Guanaxuato has
sunk from 70,000 to 33,000, that of Guadalaxara has
risen from less than 20,000 to at least 70,000, and it
now ranks, in point of population, as the second city
in the empire.*
Compostella, situated to the south of Tepic, is the
more ancient city. As, in the district to the north
west of this place, tobacco of a superior quality was
formerly cultivated; it would seem to be situated
either within, or on the border of the tierra caliente
of the western coast. The other towns enumerated
by Humboldt are, Aguas Calientes, a, small, well-
peopled town, to the south of the mines of Asientos de
Ibarra ; Villa de la Purificacion, to the north-west of
* Pike's Exploratory Travels, p. 326. ,
t Notes on Mexico, p. 110. Major Pike carries the estimate to
75,000.

MEXICO. 53
the port of Guatlan ; Lagos, to the north of the town
of Leon, in Guanaxuato, near the frontier of that
intendancy, " on a plain fertile in wheat" (a part
of the Baxio) ; and Colima, situated two leagues south
of the volcano of the same name.
The volcan de Colima is the most western of the
volcanoes of Mexico, which are placed on the same
line in a parallel direction. It frequently throws up
ashes and smoke. Its elevation is computed to be
upwards of 9,000 feet above the level of the sea.
" This insulated mountain," says a native writer
cited by Humboldt, " appears of only a moderate
height, when its summit is compared with the ground
on which Zapotilti arid Zapotlan are built, — two
villages elevated 5,500 feet above the level of the
coast: it is from the small town of Colima that
the volcano appears in all its grandeur. It is never
covered with snow, except when it falls in the chain
of the neighbouring mountains from the effects of the
north-wind. On the 8th of December, 1788, the
volcano was covered with snow for almost two-thirds
of its height ; but this snow remained for only
two months on the northern declivity of the mountain
towards Zapotlan. In the beginning of 1791, I made
the tour of the volcano by Sayula, Tuspan, and
Colima, without seeing the smallest trace of snow
on its summits."
Such is all the information to which we have at
present access respecting this important province.
Neither Humboldt nor any other modern traveller
appears to have visited any part of it, except the
small portion between San Bias and Tepic. The
capital, the fertile banks of the Santiago, the lake
Chapala, the mines of Bolanos, the hot springs of
Aguas Calientes, and "the volcano of Colima, — all

54 MEXICO.
remain undescribed, and invite the attention of future
travellers  We have still less information with regard
to the north-eastern portion of New GaUicia, now
comprised in the intendancy of
ZACATECAS.
" This singularly ill-peopled province," says our
only authority in the present reference, the indefati
gable Humboldt, " is a mountainous and arid tract,
exposed to a continual inclemency of climate. It is
bounded, on the north, by the intendancy of Du
rango ; on the east, by San Luis Potosi ; on the south,
by Guanaxuato ; and on the west, by Guadalaxara.
Its greatest length is eighty-five leagues, and its
extreme breadth,, from Sombrerete to the, Real de
Ramos, fifty-one leagues ; being nearly of the same
extent with Switzerland, which i,t resembles in many
geological points of view. The relative population is
hardly equal to that of Sweden." The extent of
surface is computed to be 2,355 square leagues ; the
population in 1803, was 153,300, or sixty-five only to
the square league. The table-land which forms the
centre of the intendancy, and which rises to an eleva
tion of upwards of 6,500 feet, is formed of syenite, on
which repose strata of primitive schistus and schistous
chlorites ; the schistus forms the base of the moun
tains of trappish porphyry. Zacatecas, the provincial
capital, is, next to Guanaxuato, the most celebrated
mining-place in New Spain.* Its population is stated
by Humboldt to be at least 33,000. The mines of
Zacatecas belong to the same groupe as those of
* Situated, according to Major Pike, in lat. 23° N. ; long.
104° W. This Traveller estimates the population much higher,
but, unfortunately, he does not give his authority.

MEXICO. 55
Guanaxuato and Catorce. The intendancy is divided
jnto four diputaciones de mineria, or mining districts :
1. Zacatecas; 2. Sombrerete; 3. Fresnilio ; 4. Sierra
de Pinos. The veta negra of Sombrerete has yielded
the greatest wealth of any seam yet discovered in the
two hemispheres. To the north of the town of Zaca
tecas, there are nine small lakes, abounding in muriate
and carbonate of soda. The carbonate, which goes by
the name of tequesquite (corrupted from the Mexican
word tequixquiliC), is of great use in the dissolving of
the muriates and sulphurets of silver. " The central
table-land of Asia," adds M. Humboldt, " is not
richer in soda than Blexico."
To the north of the two intendancies formerly com
prised in New Gallicia, lies the province of New
Biscay, which, under the distribution of the country
into intendancies, is called from its chief town,
DURANGO.
This intendancy, which, together with Sonora and
New Mexico, formed the captaincy of the interior
provinces of the west, extends, according to Humboldt,
from lat. 23° 55' to 29° 5' N., and from long. 104° 40'
to 110° 0' W.* It is bounded, on the west, by Sonora ;
on the south-east, it touches on San Luis Potosi ; but
towards the north and east, for upwards of 200 leagues,
it borders on an uncultivated country, inhabited by war
like and independent Indians. It comprehends the
northern extremity of the great table-land of Ana
huac. Its length from north to south, from the cele-
* Major Pike makes New Biscay to lie between lat. -4° and 33°,
and long. 105° tad 111": he states its length from N.W. to S.E.
at 600 miles ; its greatest breadth at 400 ; and its population at
200,000.

56 MEXICO.
brated mines of Guarisamey to the mountains of
Carcay, is 232 leagues : its breadth is very unequal,
and, near Parral, is scarcely fifty-eight leagues.
Its extent of surface is greater than that of the
three united kingdoms of Great Britain, and, yet,
its total population does not equal that of Bir
mingham and Manchester united. The number of
inhabitants in 1803, was computed to be rather less
than 160,000. Of these, Major Pike thinks, three-
twentieths might be European Whites, five-twentieths
Creoles, five -twentieths Mestizoes and half-castes, and
seven-twentieths Indians. It comprises, besides the
city of Durango, six towns (villas) ; 199 villages
(pueblos); 75 parishes (paroquias) ; 152 haciendas;
37 missions ; and 400 cottages (ranchos).
Durango, or Guadiana, the principal city, is the
residence of the intendant and of a bishop, It is
situated in the most southern part of the province,
(in lat. 25° N., and long. 107° W.)* at 170 leagues
distance, in a straight line, from the city of Mexico,
and 289 leagues from the town of Santa Fe, in
New Mexico. The elevation of the town above the
sea-level, is 6,800 feet ; there are frequent falls
of snow, and the thermometer descends to 14°
Fahrenheit below the freezing point. The city was
founded in 1559 : the population in 1803, was
I2,000.f * Pike, p. 352.
t Major Pike says, 40,000. He states, also, that the city is
infested, in a very remarkable manner, by scorpions. " They come
out of the walls and crevices in May, and continue for about a
fortnight in such numbers, that the inhabitants never walk
in their houses after dark without a light, and always shift or
examine the bed-clothes, and beat the curtains, previously to
going to rest ; after which, the curtains are secured under the bed.

MEXICO. 57
In the midst of a very level plain, between this city,
the plantations del Ojo and del Chorro, and the town of
Nombre de Dios, which lies in the road to the famous
mines of Sombrerete, — there rises a singular groupe of
rocks, of a very grotesque form, covered with scoria,
called la Brena : they extend twelve leagues from
north to south, and six from east to west, and appear
to be a volcanic production, consisting of basaltic
amygdaloid. On the summit of one of the neigh
bouring mountains (the Frayle), is found a crater
above 300 feet in circumference and 100 feet in per
pendicular depth. In the environs of Durango, there
is also to be found, insulated in the plain, an enormous
mass of malleable iron and nickel, said to weigh up
wards of 40,000 lb. avoirdupois, and corresponding, in
its composition, to the aerolithos which fell, in 1751,
near Agram in Hungary.* Major Pike mentions " a
mountain or hill of loadstone," about 100 miles south
of Chihuahua, which had been surveyed by a friend
of his ; referring, probably, to the same phenomenon.
Chihuahua, the residence ofthe captain-general of the
western interior provinces, was founded in 1691, and is
situated in lat. 29° N. ; long. 107° 30' W. Its popu
lation is estimated by Humboldt at 11,600; by Major
Pike at 7,000. Tbe town is thus described by the
latter Traveller : " It is of an oblong rectangular
The precautions are similar to those we take with our moschetto
curtains. The bite of these scorpions has been known to prove
mortal in two hours. But the most extraordinary circumstance
is, that, by taking them ten leagues from Durango, they become
perfectly harmless, and lose all their venomous qualities. Query,
does this arise from a change of air or of sustenance ?" The reader
will probably be of opinion, that there is a previous query which
requires to be disposed of. Yet, as Mexico has its stingless bees,
it may possibly have its impotent scorpions.
* Humboldt, Pol. Essay, vol. ii. p. 245.

58 MEXICO.
form, on the eastern side of a small stream, which dis
cbarges itself into the river Conchos. At its southern
extremity is a small but elegant church. In the pub
lic square stands the church, the royal treasury, the
town-house, and the richest shops. At the western
extremity, there is another church for the military,
a superb- hospital, belonging formerly to the Jesuits,
the churches of the monks of St. Francis and St. Do-
miniok, the military academy, and the barracks
(quartel del tropa). On the north-west are two or
three missions, very handsomely situated on a small
stream which comes in from the west. About one
mile to the south of the town is a large aqueduct,
which conveys the water round it, to the east, into
the main stream below the town, at the centre of
which is a" reservoir, whence the water is conducted
by pipes to the different parts of the city ; and in the
public square is to be a fountain and jet d'eau. The
principal church is the most superb building we saw
in New Spain ; its whole front being covered with
statues of the apostles and the different saints, set in
niches, and the windows, doors, &c. ornamented with
sculpture. I was never within the doors, but was
informed that the decorations are immensely rich.
Some men whom we supposed to be entitled to credit,
informed us, that the church was built by a tax of 12£
cents laid on each ingot of gold or silver taken .out of
the mines in the vicinity. Its cost, including the
decorations, was 1,500,000 dollars ; and when it was
finished, there remained 300,000 dollars of the fund
unappropriated. On the south side of Chihuahua
is the public walk, formed by three rows of trees,
whose branches nearly meet over the heads of the
passengers. At different distances there are seats,
and, at each end of the walk, circular seats, on which,

MEXICO. 59
in the evening, the company collected and amused
themselves with the guitar, and songs in Spanish,
Italian, and French, adapted to the voluptuous man
ners of the country. In this city, as well as in all
others of any consideration, there are patroles of sol
diers during the night, who stop every person at nine
o'clock, and examine them. My countersign was,
Americans. " There are at Chihuahua and its vicinity, fifteen
mines ; thirteen of silver, one of gold, and one of cop
per ; the furnaces for all of which are situated round
the town, in the suburbs, and present, except on
Sundays, volumes of smoke rising in every direction,
which are seen from a distance long before the spires
of the city, strike the view. It is incredible, the quan
tity of cinders that surround the city, in piles ten or
fifteen feet high. Next the creek, they have formed
a bank of them, to check the encroachments of the
stream, and it has presented an effectual barrier. I
am told, that a European employed some hands, and
wrought at the cinders, and that they yielded 1 dollar
25 cents for each per day ; but this not answering his
expectations, he ceased his proceedings. At Mauperne,
there are one gold and seven silver mines."*
The mines of Chihuahua lie to the east of the great
real of Santa Rosa de Cosiguiriaehi, situated at the
foot of the sierra de los Metates. The population of
Cosiguiriaehi is said to amount to nearly 11,000 souls.
To the west of the Rio de Conchos is the town and
real of San Pedro de Batopilas, with a population of
8,000, which was formerly celebrated for the great
wealth of its mines. To the same rich groupe (the
third in Humboldt's enumeration, and the most
* Tike's Exploratory Travels, p. 352.

60 MEXICO.
northern in Mexico, extending from lat. 26° 50' to
29° 10' N. ; and from long. \Q6° 45' to 108° 50' W.)
belongs the real of San Jose de Parral, situated to
the south of Chihuahua, and the residence of a depu
tation of mines : the population is stated at 5,000.
This real, as well as the town of Parras, received its
name from the great number of wild vine-shoots with
which the country was covered oq the first arrival of
the Spaniards. A fifth mining district within this
intendancy, is that of Guarisamey, a veiy old real, on
the road from Durango to Copala, with a population
of 3,800. It belongs to the groupe of Durango and
Sonora, ranked by Humboldt as the second in point
of actual produce ; extending from la^( 23° to 24° 45'
N., and from long. 106° 30' to 109° 50' W.
The other chief places in this intendancy, according
to Humboldt, are, San Juan del Rio, to the S.W. of
the lake of Parras, population 10,200 5 Nombre de
Dios, population 6,800 ; Pasquiaro, a stnall town to
the S. of the Rio de Nasas, with a population of
5,600 ; Mapimis, a military post (presidio), to the
east of the Cerro de la Cadena, on the confines of the
Bolson de Mapimi, — population, 2,400; ftaltillo, on
the confines of Cohahuila and Leon, in the midst of
arid plains, towards the eastern declivity of the table-
1-md, the population 6,000 ; and Parras, near the lake
of the same name, west of Saltillo. The 'last tw0
towns are included by Major Pike in the province of Co
hahuila, and have already been noticed. The same Tra
veller mentions, as one of the chief places of Burango,
" Pollalein, situated at the foot of the Sierra, Madre,
and supposed to contain 25,000 souls." No su^h place
is mentioned by Humboldt, and it is probably a mis
take for Parral, the population being overrated, The
river Conchos, the largest in the province, lias its

MEXICO. 61
source, according to the American Traveller, in the
Sierra Madre, near Batopilas, in lat. 28° N. . after
a course of about 300 miles, during which it re
ceives the Rio Florida from the east, and the Rio San
Pablo from the west, it joins the great Rio del Norte
in lat. 31°. The Rio San Pablo, the large western
branch of the Conchos, has its head in lat. 28° 50',
and after a course of about 1 50 miles, discharges into
the latter at Bakinao : in summer, it is nearly dry;
in the rainy season, impassable. The Rio Florida
takes its rise in lat. 26° 30' N., and has a course of
similar length : about mid-way on its eastern bank, is
situated the presidio of Guaxequillo. The Rio de
Nasas forms in part the line between New Biscay and
Cohahuila : it runs north, and empties itself into
the lake Cayman on the borders of the Bolson de
Mapimi. This stream is also nearly dry in summer,
but, at some periods, impassable. Lake Cayman and
lake Parras, situated at the feet of the mountains,
are both full of fish.
The climate of this intendancy is stated by Major
Pike to be dry, and the heat, at that time of year
which precedes the rainy season, very great. The
rains commence ,in June, and continue, by light
showers, till September. During the remainder of the
year, there falls neither rain nor snow to moisten the
earth, and the atmosphere becomes highly electrified.*
The agricultural produce consists of wheat, maize,
* " The atmosphere had become so electrified, that, when we
halted at night, in taking off our blankets, the electric fluid would
almost cover them with sparks ; and in Chihuahua, we prepared
a bottle with gold leaf as a receiver, and collected sufficient fluid
from a bear-skin to give a considerable shock to a number of per
sons. This phenomenon was more conspicuous in the vicinity of
Chihuahua, than in any other part that we crossed." — Pike,
p. 348.

62 MEXICO.
rice, Oats, cotton, flax, indigo, and the fruit of the
vine. To the north of Chihuahua, about thirty miles
to the right of the main road, there is- some pineT
timber ; in one place, near a spring, Major Pike
noticed a solitary walnut-tree ; and on all the small
streams, there are, he says, shrubby cotton-trees.
" With these few exceptions, the whole province is a
naked, barren plain, which presents to the eye an arid,
unproductive soil ; and more especially in the neigh
bourhood of mines, even the herbage appears to be
poisoned by the qualities of the land." New Biscay
trades both with the southern provinces and with
New Mexico and Sonora, furnishing to the more
populous parts of the kingdom a great number of
horses, mules, beeves, sheep, and goats, in return for
dry goods, European furniture, ammunition, books,
&-., which are brought from the capital on mules.
" Some individuals make large fortunes by being the
carriers from Mexico to Chihuahua, the freight being
eight dollars per cent ; and they generally put 3001b.
on each mule. The merchants make their remittances
twice a year in bullion. Goods sell at Chihuahua
about 200 per cent higher than the prices of our
Atlantic sea-port towns.* They manufacture some
few arms, blankets, stamped leather, embroidery,
coarse cotton and woollen cloths, and a species of
carpeting." This Traveller concludes his statistical
account of the province by stating, that law here is
merely a shadow, the only laws that can be said to be
in force being the military and the ecclesiastical ; that
the corruption of morals is general, — the natural con
comitant of a great degree of luxury among the rich,
* This was in 1807. Horses then averaged at 6 dollars; some
would fetch 100 dollars i trained mules, 20 dollars ; rice sold for 4
dollars the cwt

MEXICO. 63
and of misery among the poor; that the Roman
Catholic religion is in full force, but the inferior clergy
are much dissatisfied.
There are no slaves in this province, nor any In
dians of the Aztec race ; — Humboldt says, not a single
tributary individual, and " all the inhabitants are
either white, or consider themselves as such." Major
Pike explains the state of things more specifically.
Except the Apaches, who inhabit the Bolson de
Mapimi, there are, he says, no uncivilised savages
in this province. " The Christian Indians are so in.
corporated amongst the lower grades of Mestizoes, that
it is scarcely possible to draw the line of distinction,
except at the ranchos of some nobleman or large land
holder, where they are in a state of vassalage. This
class of people laid a conspiracy, which was so well
concerted as to baffle the research of the Spaniards for
a, length of time, and to occasion them the loss of
several hundreds of the inhabitants. The Indians
used to go out from their villages in small parties : in
a short time, a part would return with a report that
they had been attacked by the Indians. The Spa
niards would immediately send out a detachment in
pursuit, when they were led into an ambuscade, and
every soul cut off. They pursued this course so long,
that the whole province became alarmed at the rapid
manner in which their enemies multiplied ; but some
circumstances leading to a suspicion, they made use of
the superstition of these people for their ruin. Some
officers disguised themselves like friars, and went
round amongst the Indians, pretending to be possessed
of the spirit of prophecy. They preached up to them,
that the day was approaching when a general deliver
ance from the Spanish tyranny was about to take
place,- and invited the Indians to join with them in

64 MEXICO.
promoting the work of God. The poor creatures
came forward, and, in their confessions, stated the great
hand that had already been put to the work. After
they had ascertained the nature and extent of the
conspiracy, and obtained a body of troops, they com
menced the execution, and put to death about four
hundred of them. This struck terror and dismay
throughout the Indian villages, and they durst not rise
to support their freedom and independence."
To the west of New Biscay, lies the intendancy of

Comprehending the three provinces of Cinaloa
(or Sinaloa), Ostimury, and Sonora Proper. The first
extends from the Rio del Rosario to the Rio del Fuerte
(from lat. 23° to 26° 45') ; the second, from the Rio
del Fuerte to the Rio del Mayo (in lat. 27° 30') ; and
the third (called in some old maps, New Navarre)
comprises all the northern part of the intendancy.
Its northern limits are very uncertain. The villages
of the district of Pimeria alta are separated from the
banks of the Rio Gila, by a region inhabited by inde
pendent Indians, of whom neither the soldiers sta
tioned in the presidios, nor the monks posted in the
neighbouring missions, have been hitherto able to
effect the conquest. On the west, this intendancy
has more than 280 leagues of coast extending along
the Sea of Cortes, usually called the Gulf of California.
On the south, Sinaloa is bounded by Guadalaxara and
the ocean. Its breadth varies from 50 leagues (its
greatest breadth below the 27th parallel) to upwards
of 128 leagues. Its extent in square leagues is com
puted to be rather more than 19,000 ; and the popu.

MEXICO. 65
lation in 1803, was 121,400, or six inhabitants only
to the square league.
The province of Sinaloa was the first peopled.
Major Pike estimates its population at 60,000, " not
more than three-twentieths of whom are Spaniards ;
the remainder, Creoles, Mestizoes, and Indians."
In 1793, the number of tributary Indians in this
province was 1,851. The country presents much the
same aspect as that of New Biscay, — bare, destitute
of timber, and hilly ; the air dry, pure, and salubrious,
except along the coast, where the ground is marshy,
the soil rich, and the atmosphere humid. It contains
5 towns, 92 villages, 30 parishes, 14 haciendas, and
450 ranchos. Sinaloa, the head town, called also the
Villa de San Felipe y Santiago, is situated to the east
of the port of Santa Maria d'Aome : its population is
estimated at 9,500. Culiacan (" celebrated in the
history of Mexico under the name of Hueicolhuacan")
contains a population of 10,800. El Rosario, near
the rich mines of Copala, has 5,600 ; Villa del Fuerte,
or Montesclaros, to the north of Sinaloa, 7,900.
Los Alamos, between the Rio del Fuerte and the
Rio Mayo, the residence of a deputation of mines, is
in the district of Ostimury, or Hostimuri. It con
tains about 8,000 inhabitants. Ostimury itself is a
small but populous town, surrounded with considerable
mines.* From the port of Guitivis at the mouth of
the Rio Mayo, the public courier or post from Mexico
* We have followed Humboldt, in the absence of better in
formation ; but in his map, the town or real of Hostimuri is placed
on the north side of the river Mayo, between which and the river
Fuerte he describes the province of Ostimury as lying. After
stating, moreover, that the intendancy comprises the three pro
vinces of Cinaloa, Ostimury, and Sonora Proper, he takes no fur
ther notice of the second "of these divisions, but subsequently di
vides the intendancy into the two provinces of Sonora and Cinaloa.

66 MEXICO.
embarks in a lancha for Loreto in Old California,
whence letters are sent from mission to mission as far
as Monterey and the port of San Francisco, in New
California, under the parallel of 37° 48'.
The chief places in Sonora Proper, are, Arispe, the
capital of the intendancy, situated near the head of
the river Yaqui, in lat. 31° N., long. 111° W., the
population 7,600 ; Sonora, S. of Arispe, population
6,400 :¦ and Terrenale, or Ternate, a presidio to the
N. of the capital. Arispe, Major Pike says, " is
celebrated throughout the kingdom for the vast tjuan-
tity of gold table utensils made use of in the houses,
and for the urbanity and hospitality of the inhabit
ants." He makes the population amount only to
3,400, or less than half Humboldt's estimate, but
whether on the authority of a more recent census or
not, does not appear. Little is known with any de
gree of certainty or precision of these remote regions.
Even the mines are too distant to attract or to repay at
tention'. Yet, the proportion of gold which they yield,
is so considerable, that gold does not preserve its
Usual exchange with silver in this province. General
Salcedo told Capt. Pike, that the largest piece of pure
gold ever discovered in New Spain, was found in this
province, and it had been sent to Madrid to be put in
his majesty's cabinet of curiosities.* Sonora trades
with New Mexico, Durango, and the southern pro
vinces, either by land, or through the Californian Gulf.
* All the ravines and even plains of the hilly country of the
Primeria alta, Humboldt states, contain gold scattered up and
down the alluvial land. Masses of pure gold, of the weight of from
5 to 8 lb. troy, have been found there. But these gold-washings
are by no means diligently sought after, on account of the frequent
incursions of the Indians, and especially, on account of the high
price of provisions, which must be brought from a great distance
in this uncultivated country.

MEXICO. 67
It is celebrated for cheese, horses, and sheep. Like
New Biscay, the province is destitute of timber, but
has some rich soil near the sea. It abounds with
deer, cabrie, bears, and " remarkably large Guana
lizards, which are said to weigh ten pounds, are per
fectly harmless, and are trained by the inhabitants to
catch mice." *
The most northern part of this intendancy bears
the name of Pimeria, on account of a numerous tribe
of Pimas Indians who inhabit it. These Indians live
for the most part under the domination of the mis
sionary monks, and observe the Romish ritual. This
district is divided into the Pimeria alta and the
Pimeria baoca ; the latter containing the presidio of
Buenavista, and the former extending from the pre
sidio of Ternate to the Rio Gila. Here the tra
veller has reached the confines of civilised society.
" Hitherto," says Humboldt, "there has been no
permanent communication established between Sonora,
New Mexico, and New California, although the Court
of Madrid has frequently given orders for the formation
ot presidios and missions between the Rio Gila and the
RioColorado. Two courageous and enterprising monks,
Fathers Garces and Font, succeeded, however, in
penetrating by land through the countries inhabited
by independent Indians, from1 the missions of the1
Pimeria alta, to Monterey and the port of St. Fran
cisco, without crossing the peninsula of Old California.
This bold enterprise, on which the college of the' Pro
paganda at Queretaro published an interesting notice,;
has also furnished new information relative to the>
ruins of la Casa grande, considered by the Mexican
historians as the abode of the Aztecs on their arrival
* Pike, p. .1.8.
PART III. r'

68 MEXICO.
at the Rio Gild towards the end ofthe twelfth century.
Father Francisco Garces, accompanied by Father
Font, who was entrusted with the observations of the
latitude, set out from the presidio of Horcasitas on the
20th April, 1773. After a journey of eleven days,
they arrived at a vast and beautiful plain one league's
distance from the southern hank of the Rio Gila.
They there discovered the ruins of an ancient Aztec
city, in the midst of which is the edifice called la Casa
grande. These ruins occupy more than a square
league. The Casa grande is exactly laid down ac
cording to the four cardinal points, having from north
to south 445 feet in length, and from east to west
276 feet in breadth. It is constructed of clay (or un-
burnt bricks) of unequal size, but symmetrically placed.
The walls are nearly four feet thick. The edifice had
three stories and a terrace ; the stair, probably of
wood, was on the outside. The same kind of con
struction is still to be found in all the villages of the
independent Indians of the Moqui, west of. New
Mexico. We perceive in the Casa grande five apart
ments, each of which is about 27 feet in length, 10
in breadth, and 11 in height. A wall, interrupted by
large towers, surrounds the principal edifice, and ap
pears to have served to defend it. Father Garces
discovered the vestiges of an artificial canal, which
brought the water of the Rio Gila to the town. The
whole surrounding plain" is covered with broken
earthen pitchers and pots, prettily painted in white,
red, and blue. We also find among these fragments
of Mexican earthenware, pieces of obsidian. (Uzli) ;
a very curious phenomenon, because it proves that the
Aztecs passed through some unknown northern country
which contains this volcanic substance, and that it was
not the abundance of obsidian in New Spain, that

MEXICO. 69
suggested the idea of razors and instruments of ilzli.
We must not, however, confound the ruins of this
city of the Gila, the centre of an ancient civilisation,
with the casas grandes of New Biscay, situated be
tween the presidio of Yanos and that of San Buena
ventura. The latter are pointed out by the natives,
on the very vague supposition, that the Aztec nation,
in their migration from Aztlan to Tula and the val
ley of Tenochtitlan, made three stations : the first,
near the lake Teguyo, to the south of the fabulous
city of Quivira, the Mexican Dorado ; the second at
the Rio Gila ; and the third, in the environs of
Yanos. " The Indians who live in the plains adjoining the
Casas grandes of the Rio Gila, and who have never
had the smallest communication with the inhabitants
of. Sonora, deserve by no means the appellation of
Indios bravos (savages). Their social civilisation
forms a singular contrast with the state of the savages
who wander along the banks of the Missouri. Fathers
Garces and Font found the Indians to the south of the
Rio Gila clothed, and assembled together, to the
number of two or three thousand, in villages, which
they called Uturicut and Sutaquisan, where they
peaceably cultivated the soil. They saw fields sown
with maize, cotton, and gourds. The missionaries,
in order to bring about the conversion of these In
dians, shewed them a picture painted on a large piece
of cotton cloth, in which a sinner was represented
burning in the flames of hell. The picture terrified
them ; and they entreated Father Garces not to unroll
it any more, nor speak to them of what would happen
after death. These Indians are of a gentle and sin
cere character. Father Font explained to them by an
interpreter, the security which prevailed in the Chris.

70 MEXICO.
tian missions, where an Indian alcalde administered
justice. The chief of Uturicut replied : ' This order
of things may be necessary for you : we do not steal,
and we very seldom disagree ; what use have we then
for an alcalde among us ?' The civilisation to be
found among the Indians when we approach the north
west coast of America, from the 33d to the 54th pa
rallel, is a very striking phenomenon, which cannot
but throw some light on the history of the first migra
tions of the Mexican nations."
As Father Font is stated to have conversed with
these Indians by means of an interpreter, either some
of them must have had communication with the
whites, or they must speak a dialect intelligible to
the more southern tribes. On this point, however,
the " seraphic chronicle " which contains the account
of this expedition, appears to he silent, although of
material importance in determining their affinity to
the Aztec tribes. The whole statement rests for the
present on the testimony of the two monks, who,
though there is no reason to doubt their veracity, ap
pear to have discovered much more zeal, than know
ledge or good sense, in their attempts at conversion.
The condition of these Indians of the Rio Gila will
deserve to be investigated by future travellers.
Still further north, in the country of the Moqui,
watered by the Rio de Yaquesila, in lat. 36°, Father
Garces " was astonished to find an Indian town with
two great squares, houses of several stories, and streets
well laid out in parallel directions. Every evening,
the people assemble together on the terraces which
form the roofs. The construction of the edifices is
the same as that of the casas grandes on the hanks of
the Rio Gila. The Indians who inhabit the northern
part of New Mexico, give also a considerable elevation

MEXICO- 71
to their houses, for the sake" of discovering the _p-
.proach of their enemies. " Every thing in theBe
countries," adds Humboldt, " appears to announce
traces of the civilisation of the ancient Mexicans.
However, the language spoken by the Indians of the
"Moqui, the Yabipais, who wear long beards, and
those who inhabit the plains in the vicinity of the
Rio " Colorado, is essentially different from the Mexi
can language. In the seventeenth century, several
Franciscan missionaries established themselves among
the Indians of the Moqui and Nabajoa, who were
massacred in the great revolt of the Indians in 1680.
I have seen, in manuscript maps drawn up before that
-period, the name of the provincia del Moqui."
We now enter on what may be considered as the
Siberia of Mexico, the province of
NEW MEXICO.
When the town of Durango, in New Biscay, was
founded, under the administration of the second vice
roy of New Spain, Velasco el Primero, in 1559, it was
then a military post against the incursions of the
Chichimec Indians. Thirty-five years after this, in
the year 1594, two friars came from the southern pro
vinces into New Mexico, where they were well
received by the Indians. They returned, and in the
ensuing year, Juan de Ouate, a -monk, was sent
out by the viceroy, Count de Monterey, to explore
the country. On his return, 1,000 troops, and 500
men, women, and children, were sent to form a settle
ment on the Rio del Norte, at no very great distance
from where Santa Ee now stands. They are stated
to have, entered into an amicable. arrangement with
the Indians, respecting this establishment:; but, a few
f 2

TZ MEXICO.
years after, the natives rose en masse, and fell on the
new settlers by surprise, killing most of the soldiers,
and obliging them to retreat to the Passo del Norte,
whicn acquired its name from this circumstance. Here
they waited for a reinforcement from New Biscay," on
the arrival of which with two field-pieces, they
returned and laid siege to the Indian town on tbe
site of Santa Fe. The natives held out for twSnty-
two . days, after which they entered into a second
negotiation, which appears to have been - a com
promise, rather than a conquest, on the part of the
besiegers. Since that time, the settlements have
been on several occasions on the point of ruin,
and have been maintained only by means of reinforce
ments from Durango and Sonora. " It is remark
able," Humboldt observes, " that after the lapse of
two centuries of colonisation, the province of New
Mexico does not yet join the intendancy of New
Biscay. The two provinces are separated by a desert,
in which travellers are sometimes attacked by the
Cumanches Indians. This desert extends from the
Passo del Norte towards the town of Albuquerque.
Before 1680, in which year there was a general revolt
among the Indians of New Mexico, this extent of
uncultivated and uninhabited country was much less
considerable than it is now. There were then three
villages, San Pascual, Semillete, and Socorro, which
were situated between the marsh of the Muerto and
the town of Santa Fe. Bishop Tamaron perceived
the ruins of them in 1700 ; and he found apricots
growing wild in the fields, an indication of the former
cultivation of the country. The two most dangerous
points for travellers are, the defile of Robledo, west
from the Rio del Norte, opposite the Sien-a de Dona
Ana; and the desert of the Muerto, where many

MEXICO. 73
whites have been assassinated by wandering Indians.
The desert of the Muerto is a plain thirty leagues
in. length, destitute of water. The general character
of this country, throughout, is an alarming aridity ;
for the mountains..!, los Mansos, situated to the east
of the road from Durango to Santa Fe, do not
give rise to a single brook. Notwithstanding the
mildness of the climate, and the progress of industry,
a great part of this province, as well as Old Cali
fornia, and several districts of New Biscay, and
the intendancy of Guadalaxara, will never admit of
any considerable population.
" The colonists of this province, known for their
great energy of character, live in a state of perpetual
warfare with the neighbouring Indians. It is on
account of this insecurity of the country life, that
we find the towns more populous than we should
expect in so desert a country. The situation of the
inhabitants of New Mexico bears, in many respects, a
great resemblance to that of the people of Europe
during the middle ages. So long as insulation exposes
men to personal danger, we can hope for the establish
ment of no equilibrium between the population of
towns and that of the country. However, the In
dians, who live on an intimate footing with the
Spanish colonists, are by no means all equally bar
barous. Those of the east are warlike, and wander
about from place to place. If they carry on any com
merce with the whites, it is frequently without any
personal intercourse, and according to principles, of
which some traces are to be found among some of the
tribes of Africa. The savages, in their excursions
to the north of the Bolson de Mapimi, plant along
the road between Chihuahua and Santa F., small
crosses, to which they suspend a leathern pocket,

74 MEXICO.
with a piece of stag-flesh. At the foot of the cross, a
buffalo's hide is stretched out. The Indian indicates by
these signs, that be wishes to carry on a commerce of
barter with those who adore the cross. He offers the
Christian traveller a hide for provisions, of which he
does not fix the quantity. The soldiers of the
presidios, who understand the hieroglyphical language
of the Indians, take away the buffalo hide, and leave
some salted flesh at the fdot of the cross.. This
system of commerce indicates at once an extraordinary
mixture of good faith and distrust."
The more specific account which Major Pike
gives of the aborigines, throws further light on the
causes of this hostility of the natives. The som-ces of
the Rio del Norte are the haunt of the Utahs, who
speak the same language as the Kyaways, who wander
about the sources of the Platte river, and the Ietans.
These three tribes appear to be assimilated in their
habits as well as in their dialect. They possess
immense herds of horses, are armed with bows
and arrows, and lances, and follow the buffalo. The
Utahs are rather more civilised than the others,
having more connexion with the Spaniards, with
whom, however, they are frequently at war, and
at other times with the Ietans. They are supposed
to be 2,000 warriors strong. The Nanahaws occupy
a district to the N.W. of Sante Fe ; they are fre
quently at war with the Spaniards. Their strength
is supposed to be equal to that of the Utahs, and
they are armed in the same manner ; but they speak,
as do all the tribes further west and bordering on
California, the " language of ; the Appaches. The
Appaches extend from the Black Mountains in New
Mexico^ to the borders of Cohahuila, keeping the
frontiers of three 'provinces in a state of perpetual

MEXICO 75
alarm, and occasioning nearly .2,000 dragoons to be
maintained in constant employment for the protection
of the villages, in the escorting of caravans, or in the
repelling and avenging of the irruptions continually
made into the settlements. " They formerly ex
tended from the entrance of the Rio Grande to
the Gulf of California, and have waged a continual
warfare with the Spaniards, with the exception of
short truces, from the time that the latter pushed
their conquests into the interior provinces. It is
extremely difficult to say what their numbers are
at the present day, but they must be very much
reduced by their long and constant hostilities, together
with the wandering and savage life they lead on the
mountains, which is so injurious to an increase of
population, and in which they are liable to be ex
tremely pinched by famine. At the commencement
of their warfare, the Spaniards used to take them
prisoners, and make slaves of them ; but, finding that
their unconquerable attachment to liberty made them
surmount every difficulty and danger to return to their
mountains, they adopted the practice of sending them
to Cuba. This the Appaches no sooner learned, than
they refused to give or to receive quarter; and in
no instance have there been any taken since that
period, except when surprised asleep, or knocked
down and Overpowered. Their arms are the bow and
arrow, and the lance. The bow forms two semicircles
with a shoulder in the middle ; the back of it is
entirely covered with sinews, which are laid on in
so nice a manner, by the use of some glutinous
substance, as to be almost imperceptible ; this gives
great force to the elasticity of the weapon. Their
arrow is mora than the cloth-yard of the English,
being three feet and a half long ; the upper part con-

76 MEXICO.
sisting of some slight rush or cane, into which is
inserted a shaft of about one foot, made of some hard,
seasoned, light wood ; the point is of iron, cane, or
stoner and when the arrow enters the body, in
attempting to extract it, the shaft comes out of its
socket, and remains in the wound. With this weapon
they shoot with such force, as to pierce through the
body of a man at the distance of one hundred yards ;
and an officer told me, that, in an engagement with
them, one of their arrows struck his shield, and
dismounted him in an instant.- The other weapon of
defence is a lance of fifteen feet in length, which with
both hands they charge over their heads, managing
the horse principally with their knees. With
this they are considered as an overmatch for the
Spanish dragoons single-handed ; but, for want of the
tactic, they can never stand the charge of a body that
acts in concert : they all have the shield. Some few
are armed with guns and ammunition taken from the
Spaniards. These, as well as the archers, generally
march to war on foot, but the lance-men are always
mounted. Numerous are the anecdotes I heard
related of their personal bravery, and the spirit of
their partisan corps. Not long before I passed
through, as a cornet with sixty-three dragoons was
passing between New Mexico and Biscay, he was sur
rounded by about two hundred Appaches infantry;
and instead of charging through them, as it was
on the plain, he ordered his dragoons to dismount and
fight with their carabines, by which means, he with
his whole party fell a sacrifice. Malgares related an in
stance in which, when inarching with 140 men, he was
attacked by a party of Appaches, both horse and foot,
who continued the fight for four hours. Whenever
the Spanish dragoons made a general charge, the;

MEXICO. 77
Appaches cavalry would retreat behind their infantry,
who met the Spaniards with a shower of arrows,
on which they immediately retreated; and even the
gallant Malgares spoke of his cavalry breaking their
infantry as a thing not to be thought of. How
quickly would one full squadron of our troops have put
them to flight, and cut them to pieces ! Malgares
assured me, that if the men had seconded the efforts
and bravery of the Indian chieftain, they must have
been defeated and cut to pieces ; that in various
instances he rallied his men, and brought them up to
the charge, and when they flew, retired indignantly
in the rear. Seeing Malgares very actively engaged
in forming and bringing up the men, he rode out
a-head of his party, and challenged him to single com
bat with his lance. This my friend refused, as,
he said, the chief was one of the stoutest men he
knew, carried a remarkably heavy lance, and rode a
very fine charger ; but one of his corporals, enraged
to see them thus braved by the savage, begged
permission to meet the " infidel." His officer
refused bis request, and ordered him to keep his
ranks 4 but, on his reiterating his request, his superior
in a passion told him to go. The Indian chief had
turned his horse to join his party : on seeing his
enemy advancing, he returned, and giving a shout,
met him at full speed. The dragoon thought to parry
the lance of his antagonist, which he in part effected,
but not throwing it quite high enough, it entered his
neck in front, and came out at the nape, when he fell
dead to the ground, and his victorious enemy gave
a shout, in which he was joined by all his followers.
This enraged the Spaniards to such a degree, that
they made a general charge, on which the Indian

78 MEXICO.
cavalry again retreated, notwithstanding the entreatie's
of their gallant leader.
" In another instance, a small smoke was dis
covered on the prairie, and three poor savages were
surrounded by 100 dragoons, and ordered to lay down
their arms. They smiled at the officer's demand,
and asked him if he Could suppose, that men who had
arms in their hands, would ever consent to become
slaves. He being loath to kill them, held a conference
for an hour, when, finding that his threats had as
little effect as his entreaties, he ordered his men
to attack them at a distance, keeping out of the reach
of their arrows- and firing at them with their cara
bines, which they did, the Indians never ceasing
to resist as long as life remained. Once, during _
truce, a captain was ordered to treat with some of the
bands. He received their deputies with hauteur, and
they could not come to terms ; the truce was broken,
and the Indians retreated to their fastnesses in the
mountains. In a day or two this same officer pursued
them. They were ik a place called the ' Door in the
Mountains,' where only two or three dragoons could
enter at a time, and there were rocks and caves on
the flanks. Between.these the Indians secreted them
selves, until a number of the Spaniards had come in ;
when the Indians sounded a trumpet, and the attack
began, and continued on the side of the Appaches
until the captain fell: the Indian chief then caused
the firing to cease, saying, that ' the man who had
so haughtily spurned the proffered peace, was now
dead.' They made prisoner (for once) a young officer,
who during the truce had treated them with great
kindness, and sent him home safe and unhurt.
" Some of the bands have made temporary truces

MEXICO. 79
with the Spaniards, and received frdm them 25 cents
per diem each. These people hover round the forti
fications of the country, drink, shoot, and dissipate
their time ; they are haughty and independent, and
great jealousy exists between them and the Spaniards.
Those savages who have for some time lived near the
forts and villages, become, when hostile, by far the
most dangerous enemies the Spaniards have, as they
acquire the Spanish language, manners, and habits,.
and passing through the populated parts under the
disguise of civilised and friendly Indians, commit
murders and robberies without being suspected.
There is in the province of Cohahuila, a partisan
named Ralph, who, it is calculated, has killed more
than 300 persons. He comes into the town under the
disguise of a peasant, buys provisions, goes to the
gambling-tables and to mass, and, before he leaves the
village, is sure to kill some person, or to cany off
a woman, which he has frequently done. Sometimes
he joins travellers on the road, insinuates himself into
their confidence, and takes his opportunity to assas
sinate them. He has only six followers ; yet, from
their knowledge of the country, their activity and-
cunning, he keeps about 300 dragoons continually
employed. The government has offered 1,000 dollars
for his head.
" The civilised Indians of the province of New
Mexico consist of what were formerly twenty-four
different bands, the several names of which I was not
able to learn. The Keres were one of the most
powerful : they form at present the population of San
Domingo, San Felipe, San Dies, and one or two other
towns. They are men of large stature, with round,
full visage, and fine teeth, and appear to be of a gentle,
tractable disposition : they resemble the Osages more
PAJlT III. g

80 MEXICO.
than any nation within my knowledge. Although-
they are not the vassais of individuals, yet, they may
properly he termed the slaves of the state ; for they
are compelled to do military duty, drive mules, cany
loads, or, in fact, perform any other act of duty
or bondage that the commandant of the district,
or any other passing military tyrant, may choose to
ordain. I was myself eye-witness of a scene which
made my heart bleed for these poor wretches, at
the same time that it excited my indignation and
contempt that they should suffer themselves, with
arms in their hands, to be beaten and knocked about
by beings in no respect their superiors, unless a slight
tint of complexion could be supposed to give that
superiority. Before we arrived at Santa Fe, we
rested one night near one of the villages, where
resided the families of two of our horsemen. They
took the liberty to pay them a visit in the night.
Next morning the whole party were called up, and
because they refused to testify against their im
prudent companions, several were knocked down
from their horses by the Spanish dragoons with the
butt end of their lances. Yet, with the blood streak
ing their faces, and arms in their hands, they stood
cool and tranquil. Not a frown, not a word of
discontent or of palliation escaped them. Yet, what
must have been the boiling indignation of their souls
at the insults offered by the wretch clothed with a little
brief authority ! But the day of retribution will come
in thunder and in vengeance.
" These savages are armed with bows and arrows,
and lances, .or .escopates. Although they are said
to be converted to Christianity, they still retain many
of their ancient superstitious feasts and ceremonies.
Once a year there is a great festival, which lasts

MEXICO. 81
three successive days, spent in eating, drinking, and
dancing. The nocturnal revels have a great affinity
to the ancient mystic rites of Greece." *
The province of New Mexico extends along the
Rio del Norte, from lat. 31° to 38°, being about
175 leagues in length, and varying from 30 to 50
leagues in breadth.f But, in this space, there is
a desert of more than 250 miles. The population in
1803, was estimated at 40,000 souls, or seven persons
to every square league. It is bounded on the north
and east, by Louisiana ; on the south, by Durango and
Cohahuila; and on the west, by Sonora and Cali
fornia. Although under the same latitude as Syria
and central Persia, it has a remarkably cold climate :
it freezes in the middle of May. Near Santa Fe, and
a little further north, the Rio del Norte is sometimes
covered for a succession of years with ice thick
enough to allow of the passing of horses and carriages.
The mountains which bound the basin of the Rio del
Norte, and even those at the foot of whiqh the village
of Taos is situated, lose their snow towards the
beginning of June.J " No persons," says Captain
* Pike's Travels, pp. 337 — 43. This Traveller represents this
festival as being held near a dark cave, which is made the scene of
the infamous practices alluded to. There is no reason whatever to
doubt, that this was the account he received ; but it agrees so little
with the character of the Indian superstitions, their manners, or
their physical temperament, that, in the absence of more specific
information, it must be regarded as improbable. If substantiated,
the^coincidence would be most remarkable.
t Humboldt.— Major Pike says, from lat. 31° 30' to 37°, and be
tween 104° and 108° W. long. ; but the inhabited part is not more
than 400 miles in length and 50 in breadth.
$ From this circumstance, Humboldt infers, that the elevation
of the valley above the sea level is not great : he supposes the bed
of the river, under 37° N. lat., not to be more than from 2,300 to

82 MEXICO.
Pike, " accustomed to reside in the temperate climate
of the 36th and 37th parallels of north latitude in the
United States, can form any idea of the piercing cold
experienced in that latitude in New Mexico. But
the air is serene, not subject to damps or fogs, as
it rains but once a year, and some years not at all. It
is a mountainous country; and the grand dividing
ridges which separate the waters of the Rio del Norte
from those of California, bordering it on the line
of its western limits, give a keenness to the air which
would never be calculated on in a temperate zone.
The cotton-tree is the sole production of this province,
except some scrubby pines and cedars at the foot
ef the mountains. The former tree borders the
banks of the Rio del Norte and its tributary streams.*
All the rest of the countiy presents to the eye a
barren wild of poor land, scarcely to be improved by
culture, and appears capable only of producing a
scanty subsistence for the animals, which live on a
few succulent plants and herbage. There are no
mines known in the province, except one of copper,
situated in a mountain on the western side of the Rio
del Norte, in lat. 34° N. It is wrought, and produces
20,000 mule-loads of copper annually, furnishing that
article for the manufactories of nearly all the internal
provinces. It contains gold, but not in sufficient
quantity to pay for its extraction. There is, near
Santa Fe, in some of the mountains, a stratum of
talc, which admits of being divided into thin flakes,
of which are made the windows of most of the houses
2,600 feet above the ocean. Captain Pike represents the western
mountains as " covered in some places with eternal snows," but he
was probably misinformed.
* Humboldt says, " The banks of the river are extremely pic
turesque, and are adorned with beautiful. poplars and other trees."

MEXICO. 83
in Santa Fe and all the villages to the north. New
Mexico carries on a trade direct with Mexico and
Biscay, and with Sonora. It sends out annually
about 30,000 sheep ; also, dressed deer-skins and
cabrie-skins, some fur, buffalo robes, tobacco, salt,
and wrought copper vessels of a superior quality. It
receives in return from New Biscay and Mexico, dry
goods, confectionary, arms, iron, steel, ammunition^
European wines and liquors ; from Sonora, gold,
silver, and cheese.* The journey with loaded mules
from Santa Fe to Mexico, and returning, takes five
months. They manufacture rough leather, segars, a
vast variety and quantity of potter's ware, cotton,
some coarse woollen cloths, and blankets of a superior
quality. All these manufactures are carried on by
the civilised Indians, as the Spaniards think it more
honourable to be agriculturists than mechanics.
The Indians, likewise, far excel their conquerors in
all mechanical operations. They cultivate maize,
wheat, rye, barley, rice, and all the culinary plants
of the same latitude in the United States ; but they
are at least a century behind us in the art of cultiva
tion : notwithstanding the numerous herds of cattle
and horses, I have frequently seen them breaking up
whole fields with the hoe. Their oxen draw by the
horns, after the French (and Spanish) mode. Their
carts are extremely awkward and clumsily made.
During the whole of the time we were in the country,
I never saw a horse in a vehicle of any description,

* As instances of the extreme dearness of goods and cheapness of
produce, the Writer mentions the following prices : flour, 2 dollars
per 100; salt, 5 dollars per mule-load i sheep, 1 dollar each;
beeves, 5 dollars each ; horses, 11 dollars each ; mules, 30 dollars
each :— fine cloths, 20 dollars per yard ; superfine cloths, 25 dollars ;
linen, 4 dollars ! and dry goods in proportion.

84 MEXICO.
mules being made use of in carriages, as well as
for the purpose of labour. New Mexico has the
exclusive right of cultivating tobacco.* The ani
mals found in this province are, deer, elk, buffalo,
cabrie, the grisly black bear, and wild horses." -|-
This province contains three towns ; Santa Fe,
the capital, Santa Cruz de la Canada y Taos, and
Albuquerque y Alameda: besides these, they reckon
twenty -six pueblos, three parishes, and nineteen mis
sions. The presidio of Passo del Norte, however,
is a considerable town, the most southern in the pro
vince. It is situated on the right bank of the Rio del
Norte, above sixty leagues south of Santa Fe, in
a " delicious" country, resembling (Humboldt says)
the finest parts of Andalusia. The gardens contain
in abundance all the fruits of Europe ; figs, peaches,
apples, and pears. The fields are cultivated with
maize and wheat, and the vineyards produce excellent
sweet wines, which are preferred even to those of
Parras, in New Biscay. As the country is dry,
a canal brings the water of the river to the Passo, for
the purpose of irrigating the land. During the great
swells of the Rio del Norte in the months of May and
June, the strength of the current destroys, almost
every year, the dam which forces the waters of
the river to enter the canal when they are low. The
manner of restoring and strengthening the dam, is
* This was under the colonial system, tobacco being, in the
southern provinces, a royal monopoly, and its cultivation restricted
to the environs of Orizaba and Cordoba, and Huatusco and
Songolica in Vera Cruz. Officers (guardas de tabaco) travelled the
country for the purpose of pulling up whatever tobacco they
found planted beyond those districts. Prior to the establishment
of the monopoly in 1764, Guadalaxara was celebrated for its
tobacco. t Pike, pp. 331—6.

MEXICO. 85
sufficiently ingenious. " The inhabitants form bas
kets of stakes, connected together by branches of
trees, and filled with earth and stones : these gabions
are abandoned to the force of the current, which,
in its eddies, disposes them in the point where the
canal separates from the river." This is about two
miles above the town, where there is a bridge over
the river, by which the road passes to the eastern
bank. Santa Fe, the capital, is situated on a small stream
which empties itself into the Rio del Norte on
the eastern side, at the foot of the mountains which
divide the head waters of that river from those of the
Arkansa and Red River of the Mississippi ; lat. 36° 15'
N. ; long. 104° 45' W. of Greenwich. The town is
" of a long rectangular form, extending about one
mile from east to west on the banks of the creek. In
the centre is the public square, one side of which
forms the flank of the soldiers' square, which is
closed, and in some degree defended by round towers,
in the angles which flank the curtains. Another side
of the square is formed by the palace of the governor,
his guard-houses, &c. ; another is occupied by the
priests and their suite, and the fourth by the chapi-
tones (European residents). The houses are generally
only one story high, with flat roofs, and have » very
mean appearance outside, but some of them are richly
furnished, especially with plate." The population is
stated by Humboldt at 3,600. From CMhuahua to
Santa Fe, there is a good road for carriages over
the level tract bordering the great river. " A sort of
caleche is generally used, such as the Catalonians call
a, volante." Albuquerque, situated to the west of the Sierra
Obscura, opposite the village of Atrisco, about fifty

86 MEXICO.
miles S. of Santa Fe, contained a population, in 1803,
of 6,000. Taos, the most northern town in New
Mexico, in lat. 37°, contained nearly 9,000 inhabit
ants. The " great river of the north," so often referred
to, rises in the Sierra Verde, in lat. 40° N., and long.
110° W. (of Paris).* The same range of mountains
gives birth to the head waters of the Platte river and
other tributaries of the Missouri, to those of the
Arkansa, which falls into the Mississippi, and to the
rivers of California. The course of the Rio-del Norte
may be estimated, Major Pike thinks, including its
meanders, at 2,000 miles : after watering the pro
vinces of New Mexico, part of Durango, Cohahuila,
and New Santander, it falls into the Gulf of Mexico
in lat. 26° N. " It cannot," says this Traveller,
" in any part of its course, be termed a, navigable
stream, owing to sand-bars in the flat country, and
mountains' in the upper part, with which its course is
interrupted ; but small boats might ascend as high as
the presidio de Rio Grande in Cohahuila ; and it
might be navigable for canoes in various parts of its
course. Even in the mountains above Santa Fe, it
afforded amply sufficient water for that species of
navigation, and more than appeared to be flowing in
its bed in the plains. This must be attributed to the
numerous canals and the dry, sandy soil through
which the river takes its course, and where much of
the water that flows from the mountains is absorbed
and lost. In the province of New Mexico, it is called
the Rio del Norte ; below, it is termed the Rio
Grande ; but in no instance did I hear it called the
Rio Bravo (savage river), as many of our ancient
* Pike, p, 332.

MEXICO. 87
maps designated it." Like the Orinoco, the Mis
sissippi, and other American rivers, it has its periodical
floods : the waters begin to swell is the month of
April, are at their height in the beginning of May,
and fall towards the end of June. During the drought,
the strength of the current is so far diminished, that
it is fordable, according to Humboldt, by horses of an
extraordinary size, which are used by the natives for
the purpose. The waters are at all times extremely
muddy. " The inhabitants of the Passo del Norte,"
Humboldt states, " have preserved the recollection of
a very extraordinary event which took place in 1752.
The whole bed of the river became on a sudden dry,
for more than 30 leagues above, and 20 leagues below
the Passo : the water of the river precipitated itself
into a newly formed chasm, and made its re-appearance
near the presidio of San Eleazaro. The fine plains
which surround the Passo, and which are intersected
by the canals of irrigation, remained without water,
and the inhabitants dug wells in the sandy bed of the
river. At length, after the lapse of several weeks,
the water resumed its ancient course, — no doubt, be
cause the chasm and the subterranean courses had
filled up." *
Within the limits of this province, towards the west,

* " This phenomenon bears some analogy to a fact which I was
told by the Indians of Jam de Bracamorros during my stay at
Tomependa. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, the
inhabitants of the village of Puyaya saw, to their great terror and
astonishment, the bed of the river Amazons completely dried up
for several hours. A part of the rocks near the cataract of Itentema
had fallen down through an earthquake ; and the waters oftheriver
had been stopped in their course till they could get over the dike
formed by the fall." — Pol. Essay, vol. ii. p. 266. The disappear
ance of tlie Rio del Norte for several weeks, must be regarded, how
ever, as-a much more singular phenomenon. G 2

88 MEXICO.
the rivers San Rafael, San Xavier, De los Dolores,
and De los Anamas (or Nabajoa), have their origin,
(the former two on the western side of the mountains
in which the Rio del Norte takes its rise,) and all
unite to form the great Rio Colorado of California.
This river, which may be, by its meanders, about a
thousand miles in length from its sources, falls into
the head of the Californian Gulf in lat. 33° N. It is
said to be navigable for 300 miles from its mouth by
"square-rigged vessels." " By this river and the
Arkansa," says Major Pike, " the best communication
might be established between the two oceans in North
America. There are represented to be various,
numerous, and warlike nations of Indians on its
banks. Through _he whole of its course, its shores
are entirely destitute of timber ; and I was informed,
that for 300 miles there is not a tree ten inches in
diameter." To the north of the Colorado and the Del Norte,
the Rio de San Buenaventura takes its rise in the
Sierra Madre, and discharges itself into the Pacific
Ocean in lat. 39° 30' N. The Rio Gila falls into the
Gulf of California in lat. 33°, just below the mouth of
the Colorado. The Rio Puerco (nasty river), a branch
of the Rio del Norte, comes from the north, and joins
the latter river about 100 miles below the presidio del
Norte, in lat. 30°. None of these streams have any
vestige of civilisation on their shores.
THE PROVINCE OF NEW CALIFORNIA
Is the name given, in the Spanish maps, to that part
of the western coast which extends from the isthmus
of Old California, or from the bay of Todos los Santos
(all saints), to Cape Mendocino. " It is a long and

MEXICO. 89
narrow extent of country, in which for these (sixty)
years the Mexican Government has been establishing
missions and military posts. No village or hacienda
is to be found north of the port of San Francisco,
which is more than 78 leagues to the south of Cape
Mendocino. The province, in its present state, is
only 197 leagues in length, and from 9 to 10 in
breadth. The city of Mexico is the same distance
in a straight line from Philadelphia, as from Monterey,
which is the chief place of the missions of New Cali
fornia." San Francisco, the most northern settlement
in all the Spanish possessions, is under nearly the
same parallel as Taos in New Mexico, from which it
is not more than 300 leagues distant. No civilised
traveller, however, has hitherto come from New
Mexico to the coast of California. The population of
the province in 1803, was estimated at 15,600, being
seven inhabitants to the square league.
" Although," says Humboldt, (to whom we are in
debted for almost all that we know of these parts,) " the
whole shore of New California was carefully examined
by the great navigator Sebastian Viscaino, (as is proved
by plans drawn up by himself in 1602,) this fine
country was not occupied by the Spaniards till 167
years afterwards. The Court of Madrid, dreading
lest the other maritime powers of Europe should form
settlements on the north-western coast, which might
become dangerous to the Spanish colonies, gave orders
to the Chevalier de la Croix, the viceroy, and the Visi
tador Galvez, to found missions and presidios in the
ports of San Diego and Monterey. For this purpose,
two packet-boats set out from- the port of San Bias,
and anchored at San Diego in April 1763. Another
expedition was sent out by land through Old Cali
fornia. Since Viscaino, no European had disembarked

90 MEXICO.
on these distant coasts. The Indians were quite
astonished to see men with clothes, though they knew
that further east, there were men whose complexion
was not of a copper colour. There was even found
among them several pieces of silver, which had un
doubtedly come from New Mexico. The first Spanish
colonists who arrived, suffered severely from scarcity
of provisions and an epidemical disease, the conse
quence of bad food, fatigue, and want of shelter.
Almost all of then} fell sick, and only eight indivi
duals remained on their feet, who were employed in
digging graves to receive the bodies of their unfortu
nate companions. The land expedition was very late
in arriving with assistance to the infant colony. The
Indians, to announce its arrival, placed themselves on
casks with their arms stretched out, to shew that they
had seen whites on horseback.
" The soil of New California is as well watered
and fertile as that of Old California is arid and stony.
It is one of the most picturesque countries that can be
seen. The climate is much more mild than that of
the same latitude on the eastern coast of the New
Continent. The sky is foggy, but the frequent fogs,
which render it difficult to land on the coast near
Monterey and San Francisco, give vigour to vegeta
tion, and fertilise the soil, which is covered with a
black, spongy earth. In the eighteen missions which
now exist in New California, wheat, maize, and
beans (fricoles) are cultivated in abundance. As the
thirty-six monks of St. Francis who govern these
missions, are all Europeans, they have carefully intro
duced into the gardens of the Indians, the greater
part of the vegetables and fruit-trees cultivated in
Spain. The first colonists found, on their arrival in
1769, shoots of wild vines in the interior, which

MEXICO. 91
yielded very large grapes, but of sour quality. The
missionaries introduced the vitis vinifera of Europe,
which is certainly a stranger to the New Continent.
Good wine is made all along the coast, south and
north of Monterey, to beyond lat. 37°. The Euro
pean olive is successfully cultivated near the channel of
Santa Barbara and at San Diego : the oil extracted is
as good as that of the valley of Mexico, or the oils of
Andalusia. " Of all the missions of New Spain, those of the
north-west coast exhibit the most rapid and remark
able progress in civilisation. In 1776, there were
only eight villages ; in 1790, only eleven : in 1802,
they amounted to eighteen. The population of New
California, including only the Indians attached to the
soil who had begun to cultivate their fields, was, in
1790, 7,748 souls; in 1801, it had risen to 13,668;
and in 1802, to 15,562. Thus the number of in
habitants had doubled in twelve years. In 1791, the
Indians sowed in the whole province, only 874 fanegas
of wheat, which yielded 15,197 fanegas. The culti
vation had doubled in 1802 ; the quantity sown being
2089 fanegas, and the harvest 33,576 fanegas. In
1791, there were only 24,958 head of black cattle in
all the Indian villages. In 1802, the live stock con
sisted of 67,782 beeves, 107,177 sheep, 1,040 hogs,
2,187 tamed horses,* and 877 mules. This progress
of agriculture, this peaceful conquest of industiy, is
so much the more interesting, as the natives of this
coast, very different from those of Nootka Sound
and Norfolk Bay, were, less than fifty years ago, »
wandering tribe, subsisting by fishing and hunting,

* The total number of horses, reckoning those who run wild
in the savannas, amounted to 19,429.

92 MEXICO.
and cultivating no sort of vegetables. The Indians of
the Bay of San Francisco were at that time equally
wretched with the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land.
The natives were found somewhat more advanced in
civilisation (in 1769) only near the channel of Santa
Barbara. There they constructed large huts of a
pyramidal form, close to one another ; they appeared
benevolent and hospitable ; and they presenfed to the
Spaniards, vases very curiously wrought of stalks of
rushes, lined with* very thin layer of asphaltus, that
renders them impenetrable to water or strong liquors.
" The population of New California would have
augmented still more rapidly, if the laws by which
the Spanish presidios have been for ages governed,
were not directly opposed to the true interests both of
the mother country and the colonies. By these laws,
the soldiers stationed at Monterey, are not permitted
to live out of their barracks or to settle as colonists.
The monks are generally averse to the settlement of
white colonists, because, being people who reason
(gente de razon)," they are not so easily brought to
yield a blind obedience as the Indians. ' It is truly
distressing,' says a well-informed and enlightened
Spanish navigator (D. Dionisio Galiano), ' that the
military, who pass a painful and laborious life, cannot,
in their old age, settle in the country, and employthem-
selves in agriculture. The prohibition against build
ing houses in the neighbourhood of the presidio, is con.
trary to all the dictates of sound policy. If the whites
were permitted to employ themselves in the cultivation
of the soil and the rearing of cattle, and if the mili-
* " The whites, mulattoes, negroes, and all the castes except
Indians, go under the designation of gente de razon; a humiliating
distinction for the natives, which had its origin in ages of bar
barism."

MEXICO. 93
tary, by establishing their wives and children in cot
tages, could prepare an asylum against the indigence
to which they are too frequently exposed in their old
age, New California would soon become a flourishing
colony, a resting-place of the greatest utility for the
Spanish navigators who trade between Peru, Mexico,
and the Philippine Islands.' On removing the ob
stacles here pointed out, the Malouine Islands,, the
missions of the Rio Negro, and the coasts of San
Francisco and. Monterey, would sqpn be peopled with
a great number of whites. What a striking contrast
between the principles of colonisation followed by the
Spaniards, and those by which Great Britain has
created in a few years villages on the eastern coast of
New Holland !
" The Indians who inhabit the villages of New
California, have been of late years employed in spin
ning coarse woollen stuffs, called frisadas. But their
principal occupation, the produce of which might be
come a very considerable branch of commerce, is the
dressing of stags' skins. The Spanish and the Rus
sian establishments being hitherto the only ones which
exist on the north-west coast, it may not be useless
to enumerate all tjie missions of New California, which
have been founded up to 1803, in the order in which
they run, from south to north : — I . San Diego, founded
in 1769, fifteen leagues distant from the most northern
mission of Old California ; population in 1802, 1,560.
2. San Luis Rey de Francia, founded in 1798 ; po
pulation, 600. 3. San Juan Capistrano, founded in
1776 ; 1,000 inhabitants. 4. San Gabriel, 1771 ;
1,050 inhabitants. 5. San Fernando, 1797; 600 in
habitants. 6. San Buenaventura, 1782; 950 inha
bitants. 7. Santa Barbara, 17 86; 1,100 inhabitants,
8. La Purissima Concepcion, 1787 ; 1,000 inhabit.

94 MEXICO.
ants. 9. San Luis Obisbo, 1772; 700 inhabitant*
10. San Miguel, 1797 ; 600 inhabitants. 11. Soledad,
1791 ; 570 inhabitants. 12. San Antonio de Padua,
1771 ; 1050 inhabitants. 13. Sa» Carlos de Moir-
teeey, the capital, 1770; population, 700. 14. San
Juan Bautista, 1797; 960 inhabitants. 15. Santa
Cruz, 1794 ; 440 inhabitants. 16. Santa Clara,
1777; 1,300 inhabitants. 17. San Jose, 1797; 630
inhabitants. 18. San Francisco, 1776, with a fine
port; population, 820."*
San Carlos de Monterey is two leagues distant from
the presidio of the same name. It is situated at
the foot of the Cordillera of Santa Lucia, which is
covered with oaks, pines, and rose-bushes. Cabrillo,
who first discovered this coast, in 1542, as high as lati
tude 43°, called the Bay of Monterey, Bahia de los
Pinos, on account of the beautiful pines with which
the neighbouring mountains are clothed. It received
its present name sixty years afterwards, in honour
ofthe viceroy, Count de Monterey. " In the vicinity
of San Carlos is found the famous shell (aurum
merum) of Monterey, which is in request among the
inhabitants of Nootka Sound." From Monterey to
the mouth of the Colombia river, is a navigation
of from eight to ten days.
Within the extent of 180 leagues of coast, from
San Diego to San Francisco, no fewer than seventeen
dialeets are said to be spoken by the natives. The
northern part of the province is inhabited by the
Rumsen and Escelen tribes, who speak languages
totally different : they form the population of Mon
terey. In the Bay of San Francisco are found the
* Humboldt's Pol. Essay, vol. ii. pp. 292—308. Of these 15,-62
mhabitants, 7,945 were males, 7,617 females. The number of
whites, M. Humboldt estimates, by conjecture, at 1,300.

MEXICO. 95
Matulan, Salsen, and Quirote tribes, each having its
separate dialect, but evidently derived from a common
language. Between some of these idioms and the
Aztec, there is an apparent analogy, especially in the
final tl. Humboldt remarks, too, that the Indians of
California discover the same fondness for warm vapour
baths as the old Mexicans and several tribes of
Northern Asia, as well as of Northern Europe. " We
find in the missions, beside each cottage, a small
vaulted edifice. On returning from their labour, the
Indians enter this oven, in which the fire has a
few moments before been extinguished ; and they
remain there for a quarter of an hour. When they
feel themselves covered with perspiration, they plunge
into the water of some neighbouring stream, or wallow
about in the sand. This rapid transition from heat
to cold, and the sudden suppression of the cutaneous
transpiration, which a European would justly dread,
causes the most agreeable sensations in the savage,
who enjoys whatever acts.with violence on his nervous
system." This same practice is found among the
natives of Russia and Iceland.
Neither buffaloes nor elks are found in the low cor
dillera which runs along this coast. On the crest of
the mountains, which are covered with snow in the
month of November, wander herds of a peculiar
species of wild goat, of an ashy white, with horns
curved backwards like those of the chamois ; they are
called berendos. The forests of the plains abound
with, stags of a gigantic size, a brown colour, smooth,
and without spot, with branches above four feet in
length.* This stag of New California is represented
» Sebastian Viscaino, the navigator, asserts, that when he put
into the port of Monterey in 1602, he saw some with branches
nearly nine feet in length.

96 MEXICO.
by all travellers to be one of the most beautiful
animals of Spanish America. " These venados,"
says Humboldt, " run with extraordinary rapidity,
throwing their head back, and supporting their
branches on tjieir backs. The horses of New Biscay,
which are famed for running, are incapable of keeping
up with them ; and they only reach them at the
moment when the animal, who very seldom drinks,
comes to quench his. thirst. He is then too heavy
to display all the energy of his muscular force, and is
easily come up with. The hunter who pursues him,
gets the better of him by means of a noose, in the
same way that they manage wild horses and cattle in
the Spanish colonies. The Indians make use, how.
ever, of another very ingenious artifice to approach
the stags, and kill them. They cut off the head of a
venado, the branches of which are very long; and
they empty the neck, and place it on their own head.
Masked in this manner, and armed also with bows
and arrows, they conceal themselves in the brush
wood, or among the high and thick herbage. By
imitating the motion of a stag when it feeds, they
draw round them the flock, which become the victims
of the deception. This extraordinary hunt was seen
by M. Costanzo on the coast of the channel of Santa
Barbara; and it was seen twenty-four years after
wards, in the savannas in the neighbourhood of Mon
terey, by the officers embarked in the galetas Sutil
and Mexicana. The enormous stag-branches which
Montezuma displayed as objects of curiosity to the
companions of Cortez, belonged, perhaps, to the vena
dos of New California. I saw two of them, which
were found in the old monument of Xoachicalco, and
which are still preserved in the palace of the viceroy.
Notwithstanding the want of interior communication

MEXICO. 97
in the fifteenth century, in the kingdom of Anahuac,
it would not have been extraordinaiy if these stags
had come from hand to hand from the 35° to the 20°
of latitude ; iri the same manner as we see the beau
tiful piedras de Mahagua of Brazil, among the Caribs,
near the mouth of the Orinoco."
The peninsula which forms the province of
OLD CALIFORNIA,
While it equals England in extent of territory,
" does not contain a. population equal to Ipswich or
Deptford." The number of square leagues is stated by
Humboldt at 7,295 ; the population in 1803, at 9,000.
Extending from lat. 22° 48' 10",* to lat. 31°, it lies
under the same parallel as Bengal and the Canary
Islands. " The sky is constantly serene and of a
deep blue, without a cloud; or, should any clouds
appear at the setting of the sun, they display the
most beautiful shades of violet, purple, and green.
All persons who have ever been in California, pre
serve a recollection of the extraordinary beauty of this
phenomenon, which depends on a particular state of
the vesicular vapour and the purity of the air in these
climates. No where could an astronomer find a more
delightful abode, than at Cumana, Coro, the island
of Margarita, and the coast of California. But, un
fortunately, in this peninsula, the sky is more beau
tiful than the .earth. The soil is sandy and arid, like
the shores of Provence : vegetation is at a stand, and
rain is very unfrequent."
. A chain of mountains runs through the centre
of the peninsula, the most elevated of which, the
* The latitude of Cape San Lucas.

98 MEXICO.
Cerro de la Giganta, is between 4,500 and 5,000 feet
high, and appears to be of volcanic origin. This cor
dillera is inhabited by a breed of wild sheep (cameras
cimarones), resembling in their form and habits, the
mouflon of Sardinia : they leap, like the ibex, with
their head downwards, and their horns are curved
back in a spiral form. They are supposed to differ,
however, specifically, from the berendos of New Cali
fornia. At the foot of this cordillera is found, for the
most part, a sandy or a stony stratum, from which
a species of cactus of a cylindrical form (organos del
tunal) shoots up to an extraordinary height. There
are but few springs ; and where water is found, the
rock is often bare of vegetable earth. In those few
points where there are both water and earth, the
fertility of the soil is immense. In these places, where
the Jesuits established their first missions, maize, the
manioc, and the igname, vegetate vigorously, and the
vine yields an excellent grape. In general, how.
ever, the arid nature of the soil and the want of water
preclude all cultivation ; and Old California will
never be able to maintain a great population, any
more than the northern part of Sonora, which is
almost equally dry and sandy.
Old California was first colonised by the Jesuits,
not without opposition on the part of the Franciscans,
their rivals, who endeavoured, from time to time,
to introduce themselves among the Indians, as well, as
from the soldiers of the presidios. The village of
Loreto, the principal place of all the missions, was
founded in 1697, hy Father Kuhn, the astronomer
of Ingolstadt, under the name of the presidio of
San Dionisio. It was not till subsequently to the
year 1744, that the Spanish establishments in Cali
fornia became considerable, owing to the successful

MEXICO. 99
exertions of the Jesuits.* In a very few years, they
built sixteen villages in the interior. Since their ex
pulsion in 1767, California has been confided to the
Dominican monks of the city of Mexico, who have
not been so fortunate in their missions as the Francis
cans in New California. The population of the vii.
lages has ever since been on the decline, and the
number of the missions was reduced in 1803 to
sixteen. The principal are, Loreto, above referred to ;
Santa Ana, a mission and real ; and San Joseph.
The missions of Santiago and Guadalupe remain with
out inhabitants. The small-pox and syphilis are stated
to have been the chief causes of the depopulation ;
but M. Humboldt reasonably conjectures that there
arc other causes, connected with the political admini
stration, which have retarded the prosperity of the
settlements. The number of the savages is supposed
to be under 4,000.
The chief attraction which has led navigators to
visit the coast of this desert country, is, the pearls
which abound in the southern part. " Since the
cessation of the pearl-fishery near the island of
Margarita, opposite the coast of Araya, the Gulfs of
* " Since the first discovery of California, there have been
various wandering missionaries who have visited it at different
times, though to little purpose ; but of late years, the Jesuits, en
couraged and supported by a large donation from the Marquis de
Valero, a most munificent bigot, have fixed themselves upon the
place, and have there established a very considerable mission.
Their principal settlement lies just within Cape St. Lucas, where
they have collected a great number of savages, and have endea
voured to inure them to agriculture and other mechanic arts. Nor
have their efforts been altogether ineffectual, for they have planted
vines at their settlements with very good success, so that they
already make a considerable quantity of wine, resembling in fla
vour the inferior sorts of Madeira." — Anson's Voyage round the
World, 1740—4, chap. x.

100 MEXICO.
Panama and California are the only quarters in the
Spanish colonies which supply pearls for the European
market. Those of California are of a very beautiful
water, and large, but they are frequently of an
irregular and unpleasing figure. The shell which
produces the pearl, is particularly to be found in
the Bay of-Ceralvo, and round the islands, of Santa
Cruz and San Jose. In 1768 — 1769, a private soldier
of Loreto, Juan Ocio, became rich in a short time,
by pearl-fishing on the coast of Ceralvo. Since that
period, the number of pearls annually brought to
market, has been reduced almost to nothing. The
Indians and negroes who follow the laborious occupa
tion of divers, are so poorly paid by the whites, that
the fishery is considered as abandoned." In 1803,
a Spanish 'ecclesiastic, resident at Mexico, proposed to
the Government to employ a diving-bell in the pearl-
fishery ; and M. Humboldt witnessed a series' of
experiments made in a small pond near the castle
of Chapoltepec, with a .view to carry this project into
effect ; but it does not appear that they were ever
repeated in the Gulf of California. Hitherto, lie says,
almost all the pearls supplied by the colonies, have
come from the Gulf of Panama. The western coast
of Mexico, " especially that part of the Great Ocean
situated between the Gulf of Bayonna, the three
Mary islands, and Cape St. Lucas," abounds also in
cachalots, or spermaceti whales. This fishery is an
important object of mercantile speculation, and has
long been pursued by both English and Anglo-Ameri
can traders. Yet " the Spanish Mexicans," remarks
the learned Traveller, " see the cachalot fishers arrive
on their coast after a navigation of more than 5,000
marine leagues, without ever endeavouring to share in
the pursuit. In the present state of the colonies, the

MEXICO.- 101'
sloth of the inhabitants is inimical to the execution of
such projects ; and it would be impossible to procure
sailors willing to embrace so rude a business, and
so miserable a life, as that of a cachalot-fisher. How
could they be found in a country where, according to
the ideas of the common people, all that is necessary
to happiness, is, bananas, salted flesh, a hammock, and
a guitar ? - The hope of gain is too weak a stimulus
under a zone where beneficent Nature provides man
with a thousand means of procuring an easy and
peaceful existence, without quitting his country,
and without struggling with the monsters of the
ocean."* FROM SANTA FE TO NATCHITOCHES.
Major Pike, to whom repeated reference has
been made in the preceding account of the interior
provinces, arrived at the Rio del Norte, in an ex
ploratory journey through the interior of Louisiana.
He supposed it at first to be the Red River. Here
they were discovered by the Spaniards, and a detach
ment was sent out to bring the whole party , to
Santa Fe. The American Major, finding that he had
unwittingly committed himself by entering the Spanish
territory, and having no orders to engage in hos.
tilities, had no alternative but to. comply with the
requisition. On the 27th of February, 1807, the
party set out in a southerly direction, and on the
third day reached the village of Agua Caliente (warm
springs), situated on the eastern branch of a stream
of that name, about twelve miles above its junction
with the river de los Conejos (of .rabbits). The warm
springs, which give name to the place, are two in
* See, for further information relative to the pearl and cachalot
fisheries, Pol. Essay, vol. iii. pp. 79—94.

102 MEXICO.
number, about ten yards apart, and each affording
sufficient water for a mill-seat ; they are more
than' 33° above blood heat, and appeared to be
impregnated with copper. The next day, they arrived
at the village of St. John's, situated on the eastern
branch of the Rio del Norte, a little below the
confluence of the Rio de los Conejos, " the residence
of the president priest of the province." In this
day's route, they passed several mud-walled villages
and settlements, and were shewn the ruins of several
old villages, which had been destroyed by the Ietans.
St. John's is supposed to contain about a thousand
souls, chiefly civilised Indians ; the whites in all these
villages not forming, a twentieth part of the popu.
lation. On the fifth day, they reached Santa Fe.
The reception which the American party met with
from the governor, was manly and polite ; but it was
deemed necessary that they should "be sent to Chihua
hua, to appear before the commandant-general. Ac
cordingly, on the 4th of March, they set out under an
escort. The first night, they lodged in a small
village. The second day, they reached San Domingo^
inhabited by Keres Indians, about 1,000 in number,
governed by their own chief. These village chiefs
are distinguished by a cane with a silver head and black
tassel. On their arrival, the alcalde of San Domingo
waited on the captain of the escort, cap in hand,
to receive his orders. " After we had refreshed our
selves a little," says the American Major, " the cap
tain sent for the keys of the church. On entering it,
I was much astonished to find, enclosed in mud-brick
walls, many rich paintings, and the saint as large
as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver.
The captain made a slight inclination of the head, and
intimated to me that this was the patron of the

MEXICO. 103
village. In an outside hall was placed another image
of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the popu.
lace repair daily to return thanks for benefactions
received, or to implore new favours. Many young
girls made choice of the time of our visit to be on
their knees before the holy patron. From the flat
roof of the church, we had » delightful view of
the village, the Rio del Norte on the west, the moun
tains of St. Dies (Dionisius ?) to the south, and the
valley round the town, on which were numerous
herds of goats, sheep, and asses. On the whole, this
was one ofthe finest views in New Mexico."
Third day ; from San Domingo to the village of
San Dies, opposite the mountain of the same name.
At the village of San Felipe, which occurred in this
day's journey, the road crosses a rude bridge of eight
arches, the construction of which is sufficiently in
genious. " The pillars are of neat wood-work, some
thing similar to a crate, and in the form of a keel-
boat, the sharp end (or bow) to the current : in this
crate, or abutment, filled with stone, the river has
lodged sand or clay, until the whole has become of
tolerably firm consistency. On the top of the pillars
are laid pine-logs length-wise, squared on two sides,
and joined sufficiently close to make a tolerable bridge
for horses, but which would not be very safe for
carriages, as there are no hand-rails." At Albu
querque, which they passed through on the fourth
day, they were received by the priest, Father Am-
brosio Guerra, in a very flattering manner. After
taking some refreshment, they were led into an inner
apartment, where the father ordered his " adopted
children' of the female sex" to make their appearance.
Among them were Indians of various nations, Spanish
girls, French, and finally, two who, from their com.
PART III. H

104 MEXICO.
plexion, Major' Pike judged to be English. " On
perceiving that I noticed them, he ordered the rest to
retire, and directed these two to sit down on the sofa
beside me. He told me, that they had been taken
to the east by the Ietans, and passed from one nation
to another, till he purchased them : at that time, they
were still infants, and could recollect neither names
nor language. Concluding that they were my country.
women, he ordered them to embrace me as a mark of
my friendship, to which they appeared nothing loath.
We then sat down to dinner, which consisted of
various dishes, with excellent wines, and, to crown
all, we were waited upon by half a dozen of these
beautiful girls. After the cloth was removed, the
priest beckoned me to follow him, and led me into his
sanctum sanctorum, where he had rich and majestic
images of various saints, and, in the midst, the
crucified Jesus, crowned with thorns, but with rich
rays of golden glory surrounding his head. The
room was hung with black silk curtains, which served
to augment the gloom' and majesty of the scene.
When he conceived my imagination sufficiently
wrought up, he put on a black gown and mitre, and
kneeling before the cross, took hold of my hand, and
endeavoured gently to pull me down beside him : on
my refusal, he prayed fervently for a few minutes, then
rose, laid his hands on my shoulders, and, as I con
ceived, blessed me. He then said to me, ' You will
not be a Christian. Oh ! what a pity ! what a pity !'
He then threw off his robes, took me by the hand,
and led me out to the company, smiling ; but , the
scene I, had gone through made too serious an im.
pression on my mind to be effaced, until we took
our departure, an hour afterwards, having received
great marks of favour from the father."

MEXICO. 105
Every whore in journeying through New Mexico, the
strangers met with the most unaffected kindness and
hospitality; and the Major expresses his lively grati
tude for the " noble reception" they gave to him and
his " poor lads." The priests, too, were uniformly
found much more liberal than those nearer the vicei
royalty, where they lived under awe of the terrors
Of the ' Inquisition : many of them were remarkably
friendly. Some, indeed, Major Pike says, would
in his presence laugh at the superstition of the com
mon pebple, and the awe in which they were held by
theni. The priest of San Felipe, who entertained
the party in the most hospitable manner, entered j
during dinner, into a long and candid detail respecting
the injustice done to the Creoles, wherein the worthy
father spared neither the government nor its adminil
strators. " Both as to government and religion;"
says the Major, " he displayed a liberality of .opinion
and a fund of knowledge that astonished me. He
shewed me a statistical table, on which he had taken
the whole province of New Mexico by villages, begin
ning at Taos on the north-west, and ending with
Valeneia on the south ; giving their latitude, longi
tude, population, whether savages or Spaniards, civii.
lised or barbarous, Christians or Pagans, their num.
bers, name of the nation, when converted, how
governed, military force, clergy, salary, &c. &c. ; in
short, a complete geographical and historical sketch
of the province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy,
but perceived that the captain was somewhat sur
prised at the father's having shewn it roe." At
Father Ambrosio's, there was a chart which gave the
near" connexion of the sources of the Rio del Norte
and the Rio Colorado of California. These are
interesting facts, inasmuch as they serve to shew

106 MEXICO.
by how slight a tenure the Spanish government held
these distant provinces, and how ripe the priesthood
appear to have been for the political changes which
have subsequently taken place.
Both above and below Albuquerque, the inhabitants
were beginning to open the canals, to let in the water
of the river : men, women, and children of all ages,
were seen assisting at the " joyful labour." The
cultivation of the fields was now commencing, by
which an air of life and gayety was given to the '
surrounding scenery. The travellers crossed the
Rio del Norte a little below this town, where it
is 400 yards wide, but, at this time, not more than
three feet deep, and there was excellent fording.
They lodged at a, village some miles further on.
The road continues on the west side of the river
to the little village of Tousac, on leaving which,
the party were ferried over by a cart, as the stream
was nearly four feet deep. They proceeded on the
fifth day as far as the village of San Fernandez.
While here, they had a very characteristic specimen
at once of Castilian politeness and Mexican morals.
The following notification was sent by the com
manding officer to the alcaldes of several neighbouring
villages : " Send this evening six or eight of yon-
handsomest young girls to the village of San Fer-
nandez, where I propose giving a fandango for the
entertainment of the American officers arrived to
day." This order, which was punctually obeyed,
" portrays," remarks Major Pike, " more clearly
than a chapter of observations, the degraded state
of the common people. In the evening, when the
company arrived, the ball began after their usual
manner, and there was really a handsome display
of beauty." Lieutenant Malgares, who conducted

MEXICO. 107
the escort, though only a subaltern, had eight mules
loaded with his common camp-equipage, wines, con
fectionary, &c. !
On the 10th of March (the seventh day), they
reached the village of Sibilleta, having travelled by
very easy stages : they now took leave of the inhabited
country, and entered the wilderness. The road
became very rough. " Small hills, running into the
river, form valleys, the bottoms of which appeared
richer than those to the north." They passed a
caravan going southward with about 15,000 sheep,
for which they would bring back merchandise : the
party consisted of about 300 persons, besides an escort
of between thirty and forty troops. A similar ex
pedition goes out in the autumn : during the other
parts of the year, no one travels the road. The
caravans collect at Sibilleta, where they separate on
their return : the February caravan returns in March.
The government couriers meet and exchange packets
at the Passo.' Another party of fifty men, with
about 200 horses loaded with merchandise, was met
coming northward. The eleventh day, they halted
at a point of the river, at the foot of the " mountain
of Friar Christopher," where the main road leaves the '
river for two days' journey, bearing due south, while
the river forms a considerable bend to the south
west : the distance, by the course of the river,
to where the roads meet, is a march of five days,
during which the river must twice be crossed. This
latter route was taken by the party. On the seven
teenth day, they halted at a salt-lake, and on the day
following, after passing over a mountainous tract,
they reached the town of Passo del Norte. From
this place, they proceeded by way of Sap Eleazaro and
Carracal, to Chihuahua. Between the former two
h2

108 MEXICO.
stations, there is a small " pond," formed by a spring
which rises in the centre, called the Ojo Malalka,
which is the only water for sixty miles of the road.
At Chihuahua, the American Major had to un
dergo an examination from the commandant-general,
which was conducted with the utmost urbanity, dic
tated alike by Spanish courtesy and by that polite
respect with which a citizen of the United States
seldom fails to be treated in this country. He re
mained in this city from the 2d to the 28th of April,
during which his time 'appears to have been not un
pleasantly occupied, the evenings being spent in visit
ing ; till at length, he received notice from his Excel
lency to hold himself in readiness to march. The
route he was to pursue, lies in a south-easterly direc
tion to the fort of San Pablo, situated on the small
river of the same name, flowing from the N.W., and
falling into the Conchos. Here the party halted on
the second day. Five hours further, they arrived
at the banks of the Conchos, which they pursued for
some leagues to its confluence with the Rio Florida,
where there is a " miserable village." On the banks
of the latter river are some very flourishing settle
ments, and the land is well timbered. The route
lay up this river for six hours to Guaxequillo. Four
miles beyond that place, the road diverges from its
course, leaving it to the right, and, for between 40
and 50 miles, no water occurs. About 10 miles
further, the road passes due west through a gap in the
mountain, and then turns south to a river twenty
feet wide, with high, steep banks. It was now dry,
except in holes, hut, when full, is impassable. On
the ninth day from Chihuahua (excluding a halt of
three days at Guaxequillo), the travellers reached a
station, surrounded with mines, which Major Pike

MEXICO. 109
calls Pelia, where are two large warm springs,
" strongly impregnated " with mineral properties.
The next day, they passed a copper mine, which was
diligently worked, and arrived at the hacienda of
Cadena, situated on a small stream, at the pass called
the " Door of the Prison." The following day, they
arrived at a village which Major Pike calls Mauperne
(Mapimi ?), situated at the foot of metalliferous
mountains, with some eight or nine mines in the
neighbourhood. Three miles further, they halted for
the night at a station beautifully situated on a little
stream; in the midst of fig-trees. Early on the twelfth
day, they arrived at a place where the road branches
out into thiee. That on the right-hand is the main
road to Mexico, leading through Parras and Saltillo ;
the central one leaves all the villages to the right,
passing only some plantations ; the left-hand road
leads immediately through the mountains to Monte-
lovez, and is called the route of the Bolson de Mapimi :
it' was first travelled by M. de la Croix, afterwards
viceroy of Peru. In passing from Chihuahua to
Texas by this route, you make in seven days, what
takes from fifteen to twenty by the ordinary road ;
but it is very scarce of water, and dangerous for small
parties, as the Appaches fill these mountains. The
middle road was the one which the escort had directions
to pursue, in order that the Americans might not
approximate the frontiers of the viceroyalty ; but, on
the 16th day, they again joined the main road. They
left Parras on the right, and, a league beyond, halted,
on the 17th day, at the hacienda of San Lorenzo,
pleasantly situated in the midst of vineyards. About
five and twenty miles further is the hacienda of
Polloss, a handsome place, where the Marquis de San
Miguel frequently spends the summer: the journey

110 MEXICO.
from the capital occupies ton days. This nobleman is
stated to own the land, from the mountains of the
Rio del Norte to some distance into the viceroyalty,
and his annual revenues are immense. He maintains
1 ,500 troops to protect his vassals and property from
the savages, all cavalry, and as well dressed and armed
as the regulars." " The hacienda of Polloss," says
Major Pike, " is a square enclosure of about 300 feet,
the building only one story high, but some of the
apartments are very elegantly furnished. In the
centre of the square is a jet d'eau, which casts forth
water from eight spouts extended from a colossal
female figure : from this fountain all the population
procure their supply of water. The marquis has like
wise built a very handsome church, which, with its
ornaments, cost him at least 20,000 dollars. To offi
ciate in it, he maintains here a little, stiff, supersti
tious priest. In the rear of the palace (for so it might
be called) is a fish-pond, stocked with immense
numbers of fine fish. The population was about 2,000
souls. This was our nearest point to the city of
Mexico." The route which was pursued from this place,
passes between a double range of mountains, which
this Writer calls " Polios^ mountains," but crosses a
transverse branch, called " the mountain of the three
rivers." It falls into the main road from the. eastern
provinces, within a few leagues of Montelovez, which
the travellers reached on the 25th day. On the 27th
day's march, they passed the last mountains, and
entered the, great valley of the Mississippi. On the
30th day, they reached the presidio of Rio Grande,
where, to the great mortification of the Spanish officer,
it was with the utmost difficulty ithey obtained any
thing to eat. The mosquitoes, which had made their

MEXICO. Ill
appearance the first night after leaving Montelovez,
had now become Very troublesome ; and soon after
crossing the Rio Grande, horse-flies were seen, and
some wild horses. From this point, it is a distance of
150 miles to where the route crosses the river Mariana,
one of the heads of the San Antonio, a pretty little
stream, forming the line, in that direction, between
Cohahuila and Texas. .On the 36thvday, the party
reached San Antonio, the capital of the latter pro
vince, where the American Major met with a recep
tion from Governors Cordero and Herrara, not merely
hospitable and polite ; it was more like the cordiality
of old friends and countrymen. They came three
miles in a coach to meet the party. " We then,"
says Major Pike, " repaired to their quarters, where
we were received like their children. Cordero in
formed me, that he had discretionary orders as to the
manner of my going out of the country ; that he
therefore wished me to choose my time, mode, &c. ;
and that any sum of money I might want, was at my
service ; that, in the mean time, his quarters would
be my residence, and that he had caused to be vacated
a house immediately opposite for my men." On the
next day but one, a large party dined at Governor
Cordero's, when he gave as "the first toast, the Presi
dent of the United States. In conversation, the two
generals discovered, we are told, an astonishing ac
quaintance with the political character of the Ame
rican executive, and the local interests of the several
parts of the Union. The portrait which Major Pike
has drawn of these distinguished individuals, presents
them in a very estimable light.
" Don Antonio Cordero was fifty years of age,
about five feet ten inches in height, fair complexion,
and blue eyes. He wore his hair turned back, and

112 MEXICO.
every part of his dress was soldier-like. He still pos
sessed an excellent constitution, and a body which
appeared to be neither impaired by the fatigues of the
various campaigns he had made, nor disfigured by the
numerous wounds received from the enemies of his
king. He was one of the select officers who had been
chosen by the Court of Madrid, to be sent to Ame
rica about thirty-five years, to discipline and organise
the Spanish provincials, and had been employed in all
the various kingdoms and provinces of New Spain,
and through the parts which we explored. He was
universally beloved and respected, and by far the most
popular man in the internal provinces. He spoke the
Latin and French languages well ; was generous,.
gallant, brave, and sincerely attached to his king and
country. These numerous qualifications have' ad
vanced him to the rank of colonel of cavalry, and
governor of the provinces of Cohahuila and Texas.
His usual residence was Montelovez, which he had
greatly embellished ; but, since our taking possession;
of Louisiana, he had removed to San Antonio, in order
to be nearer the frontier, to be able to apply the
remedy to any evil which might arise from the col
lision of our lines.
" Don Simon de Herrara is about five feet eleven
inches high, has sparkling black eyes, with dark com
plexion and hair. He was born in the Canary Islands,
served in the infantry in France, Spain, and Flanders ;
he speaks the French language well, and a little of
the English. He is engaging in his conversation with
his equals, polite and obliging to his inferiors, and,
in his actions, one of the most gallant and accomplished
of men. He possesses a great knowledge of mankind,
from his experience in various countries and societies,
and knows how to employ the genius of each of his

MEXICO. 113
subordinates ' to advantage. He had" been in the
United States during the presidency of General
Washington, and had been introduced to that hero,
of whom he spoke in terms of exalted veneration.
He is now lieutenant-colonel of infantry and governor
of the kingdom- of New Leon. His seat of govern
ment is Montelrey ; and, probably, if ever a chief
was adored by his people, it is Herrara. When his
time expired last, he immediately repaired to Mexico,
attended by three hundred of the most respectable
people of his district, who carried with him the sighs,
tears, and prayers of thousands that he might be con
tinued in the government. The viceroy thought
proper to accede to their wishes pro tempore, and the
king has since confirmed the nomination. When I
saw him, he had been about one year absent, during
which time the citizens of rank in Montelrey had not
suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any of
their families, waiting until their common father
could be there, to consent and give joy to the occasion
by his presence. What greater proof could be given
of their esteem and love ? In drawing a parallel be
tween the two friends, I should say, that Cordero was
the man of the greatest reading, Herrara of the
greatest knowledge of the world. Cordero has lived
all his life a bachelor- Herrara married an English
lady in early youth at Cadiz, who, by her suavity of
manners, makes herself as much beloved and esteemed
by the ladies as her noble husband is by the men. By
her he has several children, one now an officer in the
royal service. The two friends agree perfectly in one
point,i — their hatred of tyranny of every kind, and in
a secret determination never to see that flourishing
part of the. New World subject to any European lord,

114 MEXICO.
except him whom their honour and loyalty bind thera
to defend with their lives and fortune.
" It may not be improper to state, that we owe to
Governor Herrara's prudence, that we are not now
(1807) engaged in a war with Spain. This will be
explained by the following anecdote, which he related
in the presence of his friend Cordero, and which was
confirmed by him. When the difficulties commenced
on the Sabine, the commandant -general and the vice
roy consulted each other, and both determined to
maintain what they deemed the dominions of their
master inviolate. The viceroy therefore ordered Her
rara to join Cordero with 1,300 men, and both the
viceroy and General Salcedo ordered Cordero to cause
our troops to be attacked, should they pass the Rio
Onde. These orders were positively reiterated to
Herrara, the actual commanding officer of the Spanish
army on the frontiers, and gave rise to the many mes
sages which he sent to General Wilkinson, when he
was advancing with our troops ; but, finding they
were not attended to, he called a council of war on
the question, whether to attack or not. The council
gave it as their opinion, that they should immediately
commence a predatory warfare, but avoid a general
engagement. Yet, notwithstanding the orders of the
viceroy and the commanding general, Governor Cor
dero, and the opinion of his officers, he had the firm
ness, or the temerity, to enter into the agreement with
General Wilkinson which at present exists relative to
our boundaries on that frontier. On his return, he
was received with coolness by Cordero, and they both
made their communication to their superiors. ' Until
an answer was received,' said Herrara, ' I experienced
the most unhappy period of my life, conscious that I

MEXICO. 115
had served my country faithfully, at the same time
that I had violated every principle of military duty.'
At length the answer arrived ; and what was it but
the thanks of the viceroy and the commandant-general
for having pointedly disobeyed their orders, with
assurances that they would represent his services in
exalted terms to the king ! What could have pro
duced this change of sentiment, is to me unknown ;
but the letter was published to the army, and confi
dence was restored between the two chiefs and the
troops." *
Every thing at San Antonio appeared to be in a,
flourishing and improving state, owing to the encou
ragement given to industry by these two generals.
The American Major remained here for a week, and
then took his departure, with a Spanish escort, for the
frontier. On the first day, they reached the river
Guadelupe ; a distance of 30 miles. On the second
day, they came at the -end of fifteen miles to the
St. Mark, and proceeded the same distance beyond it.
Third day, distance advanced, 26 miles : within the
last six, oak timber commences. Fourth day, they
arrived at Red River, and advanced 26 mile3. Fifth
day, a journey of 30 miles, in the course of which
they passed a large encampment of Tancard Indians.
Sixth day, at the end of 25 miles,, they crossed the
river Brassos, where there is a ferry, with a stockade
guard consisting of one corporal and six men ; and
proceeded through a tract which is at certain seasons
an impassable swamp : distance advanced, 31 miles.
Seventh day, they advanced 30 miles through alternate
woods and prairies of rich land, passing two small
creeks. Eighth day, 20 miles through similar country.
* Pike, pp. 316—318.
PART III. I

116 MEXICO.
Ninth day, they reached the station on the river
Trinity, where they found both officers and privates
(consisting of two captains, two lieutenants, three
ensigns, and nearly 100 men) all sick, one scarcely
able to assist the other. They met this day a number
of runaway negroes ; also, some Frenchmen and
Irishmen : distance advanced, 20 miles. Tenth day,
22 miles. Eleventh day, 40 miles, crossing, in the
latter part of the day, the river Natchez. Twelfth
day, they came, at the end of fifteen miles, to the
river Angelina, about the width of the Natchez, run
ning south ; and, twenty-two miles further, arrived
at Nacogdoches. This part of the country is well
watered, but the soil is hilly and sandy, covered with
pine, scrub-oak, &c. Total distance from San An
tonio, 336 miles.
From Nacogdoches, it is about 74 miles to the
Sabine river, the frontier line between the Mexican
and American territory, where Major Pike parted
with the Spanish escort. About half way, the route
crosses the river Toyac, flowing through a rich and
well-timbered district. At length, on the 1st of July,
the second day after crossing the Sabine, Major Pike
arrived at Natchitoches ; and " language cannot ex
press," he says, " the gayety of his heart, when he
once more beheld the standard of his country waving
aloft. All hail, cried I, the ever-sacred name of
country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends,
and every other tie that is dear to the soul of man !"
Four months had elapsed since he left Santa Fe ; but
six and twenty days were passed at Chihuahua, six
days at San Antonio, and the other halts appear to
have amounted to nine days, leaving 79 marching
days. After leaving San Antonio, Major Pike had pursued

MEXICO. 117
the high road of Texas from Louisiana to Mexico.
From that city, a road leads off, by way of Loredo, (on
the hanks of the Rio del Norte), Saltillo, Charcas, San
Luis Potosi, and Queretaro, to the eapital. " The
road from New Orleans to the capital of New Spain,"
says Humboldt, " opened by the inhabitants of Lou
isiana, who come to purchase horses in the interior
provinces, is more than 540 leagues in length, and is
consequently equal to the distance from Madrid to
Warsaw. The road is said to be very difficult from
the want of water and habitations ; but it presents
by no means the same natural difficulties as must be
overcome in the tracks along the ridge of the Cor
dilleras from Santa Fe in New Granada (Colombia) to
Quito, or from Quito to Cusco. It was by this road
of Texas, that an intrepid traveller, M. Pages, captain
in the French navy, went, in 1767, from Louisiana to
Acapulco. The road from Louisiana to Mexico pre
sents very few obstacles as far as the Rio del Norte,
and we only begin from the Saltillo to ascend towards
the table-land. The declivity of the Cordillera is by
no means rapid there ; and we can have no doubt,
considering the progress of civilisation in the New
Continent, that land-communication will become gra
dually very frequent between the United States and
New Spain. Public coaches will one day roll on from
Philadelphia and Washington to Mexico and Aca
pulco." To complete our statistical and topographical view
of this interesting country, we must now suddenly
transport the reader across half the Mexican territory,
and again place him on the western declivity of the
great Cordillera of Anahuac, Within the intendancy of

1 18 MEXICO.

VALLADOLID.
This intendancy, at the period of the Spanish con
quest, formed part of the independent kingdom of
Mechoacan, which extended from the mouth of the
river Zacatula to the port of Natividad, and from the
mountains of Xala and Colima to the river of Lerma
and the lake of Chapala. Its capital was Tzintzontzan,
or Huitzitzila, situated on the banks of the lake of
Pascuaro. The modern intendancy lies between Gua
dalaxara and Guanaxuato on the north, Mexico on
the east and south-east, and on the west and south
west it is washed by the great Pacific for rather more
than 38 leagues of coast. Its greatest length is in a
direction S.S.W. and N.N.E., from Zacatula to the
basaltic mountain of Palangeo, a distance of 78
leagues. Its extent in square leagues is 3,446 ; one
fifth less than Ireland. Its population in 1803, was
376,400 souls, being 109 to the square league. It con
tains three places dignified with the name of city, viz.
Valladolid, the capital, Pascuaro, and Tzintzontzan ;
three towns, Citaquaro, Zamora, and Charo ; 263
villages, 205 parishes, and 326 farms. In the imper
fect census of 1793, which gave the total population
at" less than 290,000, there were reckoned 80,000
Whites, and nearly 120,000 Indians : there were 154
monks, 138 nuns, and 293 secular ecclesiastics.
All the southern part of the intendancy is inhabited
exclusively by Indians, the only White to be met with
in any of the villages being the cure, and he also is
frequently an Indian or a Mulatto. " The benefices
are so poor, that the Bishop of Mechoacan has the
greatest difficulty in procuring ecclesiastics to settle in
a country where Spanish is scarcely ever spoken, and

E.n.g4_n Sta el

ITTI_)rAEfS OF M1CHOACAJT.

¥ublif]-ei- by JDunco_n.3?.r-_-arr_oj_<ir Kaw. March, j

MEXICO. 119
where, along the coasts of the Great Ocean, the priests
are frequently carried off by malignant fevers engen
dered by the miasmata, before the expiration of seven
or eight months." It is only to this portion of the
intendancy, however, that the character of Insalubrity
attaches. The greater part of the province, situated
on the western declivity of the table-land, intersected
with hills and charming valleys, which present the
uncommon appearance (Under the ton-id zone) of ex
tensive and well- watered meaflows, — enjoys a mild
and temperate climate, and is reckoned peculiarly
healthy. The Indian natives of this province are of three
distinct races : the Tarascs, celebrated in the sixteenth
century for the 'gentleness of their manners, their in
dustry in the mechanical arts, and the harmony of
their language, which abounds- in vowels ; the Oto-
mites, a tribe still far behind ija< civilisation, whose
language is full of nasals and gutturals ; and the
Chichimecs, who speak the Aztec or Mexican lan
guage.* The Indians of this province generally, are
described by Humboldt as the most industrious of
New Spain. " They have," he says, " a remarkable
talent of cutting out small figures in wood, and
dressing them in clothes made of the' pith of an aquatic
plant, which, being very porous, imbibes the most
vivid colours."-)- The annexed plate is copied from a
drawing made from two of these Indian figures, which
exhibits a strange mixture of the old Indian costume
with that introduced by the Spaniards. The learned
Traveller gives us no account, however, of the dis
tinctive features and characteristics of the several
tribes of Indians found in this province, — an inte-
* See vol. i. p. 109. t Humboldt's Researches, vol. ii. p. 1G4.

120 MEXICO.
resting point, which will merit the attention of future
travellers. Valladolid de Mechoacan, (so called to distinguish
it from Valladolid de Yucatan,) the capital of this
intendancy, is an episcopal city, situated in a delicious
climate, at an elevation of nearly 6,400 feet above the
level of the sea ; and yet, at this moderate height, and
under lat. 19° 42', snow has been seen to fall in the
streets, during the prevalence of northerly winds.
It contained, in 1803, a population of 18,000 souls.
The town-house, the churches, and the convents are
described as handsome ; the alameda, or public walk,
is boasted of for its beauty ; and the town is supplied
with water by an aqueduct, erected at the expense
of Bishop Antonio de San Miguel, towards the end of
the last century, and said to have cost 20,000J.
Tzintzontzan, the ancient capital of Mechoacan,
though it still retains the title of city, is now only a
poor Indian village, containing (in 1803) 2,500 in
habitants. It lies to the south-east of Valladolid,
on the northern side of the lake of Pascuaco. The
city which gives its name to the lake, is situated on
the eastern bank, opposite to the Indian village of
Janicho, which is built on a charming little island, at
less than a league's distance, in the midst of the lake.
Pascuaro contains the ashes of the first bishop of
Mechoacan, Vasco de Quiroga, a distinguished bene
factor of the Tarasc Indians, who died in 1556, at the
village of Uruapa. His memory is held in the
highest veneration by the natives, who still speak of
him as their father ( Tata Don Vasco). This city is
7,200 feet above the level of the sea, and contains
6,000 inhabitants.
In the eastern part of this intendancy there are con
siderable mines : they form four districts ; Angangueo

MEXICO. 121
(including the rich real del Oro), Tlalpujahua (or
(Tlapuxahua), Zitaquaro, and Ingwvran. They be
long to the same groupe as the mines of Themas-
caltepec ; but Humboldt givfes no particular account of
them. The most remarkable feature of this intendancy
is the volcano of Jorullo (Xorull_,or Juamyo), which
has already been referred- to as one pf the m'^t
tremendous physical revolutions that ever took place
on the surface of the globe.'*3*It is situated to the east
of the Peak of Tancitaro, the most elevated summit in
the intendancy, at the distance of more than forty-
two leagues from any other volcano now in action.
M. Humboldt, who, with his colleague, M. Bonpland,
visited its crater in September 1803, gives the follow
ing account of this wonderful phenomenon.
" A vast plain extends from' the hills of Aguasarco
to near the villages of Teipa and Petatlan, , both
equally celebrated for their fine plantations of cotton.
This plain, between the Picachos del Mortero, the
Cerro de las Cuevas, and that of Cuiche, is only from
2,460 to 2,624 feet above the level of the sea. In the
middle of a tract of ground in which porphyry with a
base of griinstein predominates, basaltic cones appear,
the summits of which are crowned with evergreen
oaks of a laurel and olive foliage, intermingled with
small palm-trees with flabellifonn leaves. This beau
tiful vegetation forms a singular contrast with the
aridity ef the plain, which was laid waste by volcanic
fire. " Till the middle of the eighteenth century, fields
cultivated with sugar-cane and indigo, occupied the
extent of ground between the two brooks called Cui-
tamba and San Pedro. They were bounded by basal
tic mountains, of which the structure seems to

122 MEXICO.
indicate, that all this country at a veiy remote period
had been already several times convulsed by volcanoes.
These fields, watered by artificial means, belonged to
the plantation (hacienda) of San Pedro de Jorullo,
one of the greatest and richest of the country. In the
month of June, 1759, a subterraneous noise was
heard. Hollow noises of a most alarming nature
(_ ramidos) were accompanied by frequent earthquakes,
which succeeded one another for from fifty to sixty
days, to the great consternation of the inhabitants
of the hacienda. From the beginning of September,
every thing seemed to announce the complete re-
establishment of tranquillity, when, in the night be
tween the 28th and 29th, the horrible subterraneous
noise recommenced. The affrighted Indians fled to
the mountains of Aguasarco. A tract of ground from
three to four square miles in extent, which goes by
the name of Malpays, rose up in the shape of a
bladder. The bounds of this convulsion are still dis
tinguishable in the fractured strata. The Malpays,
near its edges, is only thirty-nine feet above the
old level of the plain called the Playas de Jorullo ; hut
the convexity of the ground thus thrown up, increases
progressively towards the centre, to an elevation of
524 feet.
- " Those who witnessed this great catastrophe from
the top of Aguasarco, assert that flames were seen to
issue forth for an extent of more than half a square
league, that fragments of burning rocks were thrown
up to prodigious heights, and that, through a thick
cloud of ashes, illumined by the volcanic fire, the
softened surface of the earth wa3 seen to swell up like
an agitated sea. The rivers of Cuitamba and San
Pedro precipitated themselves into the burning
chasms. The decomposition of the water contributed

MEXICO. 123
to invigorate the flames, which were distinguishable
at the city of Pascuaro, though situated on a very ex
tensive table-land, 4,592 feet elevated above the
plains (las playas) of Jorullo. Eruptions of mud,
and especially of strata of clay, enveloping balls of
decomposed basaltes in concentrical layers, appear to
indicate that subterraneous water had no small share
in producing this extraordinary revolution. Thousands
of small cones, from six feet to nine feet in height,
called by the natives, ovens (hornitos), issued forth
from the Malpays. Although within the last fifteen
years, according to the testimony of the Indians, the
heat of these volcanic ovens has suffered a great
diminution, I have seen the thermometer rise to 202°
F. on being plunged into fissures which exhale an
aqueous vapour. Each small cone is a fumorola,
from which a thick" vapour ascends to the height
of from 30 to 50 feet. In many of them a subter
raneous noise is heard, which appears to announce the
proximity of a fluid in ebullition.
" In the midst of the ovens, six large masses,
elevated from 1,312 to 1,640 feet each above the old
'level of the plains, sprang up from a chasm, of which
the direction is from the N.N.E. to the S.S.E. This
is the phenomenon of the Monte-novo of Naples,
several times repeated in a range of volcanic hills.
The most elevated of these enormous masses, which
bears some resemblance to the pays de 1' Auvergne, is
the great Volcano of Jorullo. It is continually burn
ing, and has thrown up from the north side an im
mense quantity of scorified and basaltic lavas, containing
fragments of primitive rocks. These great eruptions
of the central volcano continued till the month of Fe
bruary 1760. In the following years, they became
gradually less frequent. The Indians, frightened at
i2

124 MEXICO.
the horrible noises of the new volcano, abandoned
at first all the villages situated within seven or eight
leagues distance of the plains of Jorullo. They be
came gradually, however, accustomed to this terrific
spectacle ; and having returned to their cottages,
they advanced towards the mountains of Aguasarco
and Santa Iiies, to admire the streams of fire dis
charged from an infinity of great and small volcanic
apertures. The roofs of the houses of Queretaro were
then covered with ashes, at a distance of more than
forty-eight leagues in a straight line from the scene of
the explosion. Although the subterraneous fire now
appears far from violent, and the Malpays and the
great volcano begin to be covered with vegetables, we
nevertheless found the ambient air heated to such
a degree by the action of the small ovens (hornitos),
that the thermometer, at a great distance from the
surface, and in the shade, rose as high as 109° F. This
fact appears to prove that there is no exaggeration in
the accounts of several old Indians, who affirm, that
for many years after the first eruption, the plains
of Jorullo, even at a great distance from the scene of
the explosion, were uninhabitable, from the excessive
heat which prevailed in them.
" The traveller is still shewn, near the Cerro
de Santa lines, the rivers of Cuitamba and San Pedro,
of which the limpid waters formerly watered the
sugar-cane plantation of Don Andre Pimentel. These
streams disappeared in the night of the 29th Sep
tember, 1759 ; but, at a distance of 6,560 feet further
west, in the tract which was the theatre of the
convulsion, two rivers are now seen bursting through
the argillaceous vault of the hornitos, of the appearance
of mineral waters, in which the thermometer rises to
120° F. The Indians continue to give them the names

MEXICO. 125
of San Pedro and Cuitamba, because, in several parts
of the Malpays, great masses of water are heard to run
in a direction from east to west, from the mountains
of Santa Ines towards P Hacienda de la Presentacion.
Near this habitation there is a brook, which disen
gages itself from the sulphureous hydrogen. It is
more than twenty-two feet in breadth, and is the most
abundant hydro-sulphureous spring which I have ever
seen. " In the opinion of the Indians, these extraordinary
transformations which we have been describing, the
(surface of the earth raised up and burst by the
volcanic fire, and the mountains of scoria and ashes
heaped together, are the work of the monks, the
greatest, no doubt, which they have ever produced in
the two hemispheres ! In the cottage which we occu
pied in the plains of Jorullo, our Indian host related
to us, that in 1759, Capuchin missionaries came to
preach at the plantation of San Pedro, and not having
met with a favourable reception, (perhaps not having
got so good a dinner as they expected,) they poured
out the most horrible and unheard-of imprecations
against the then beautiful and fertile plain, and pro
phesied that, in the first place, the plantation would
be swallowed up by flames rising out of the earth, and
that afterwards, the ambient air would cool to such a
degree, that the neighbouring mountains would for
ever remain covered with snow and ice. The former
of these maledictions having already produced such
fatal effects, the lower Indians contemplate, in the
increasing coolness of the volcano, the sinister presage
of a perpetual winter. I have thought proper to
relate this vulgar tradition, worthy of figuring in the
epic poem of the Jesuit Landivar, because it forms a
striking feature in the picture of the manners and

126 MEXICO.
prejudices of these remote countries. It proves the
active industry of a class of men who too frequently
abuse the credulity of the people, and pretend to sus
pend by their influence the immutable laws of nature,
for the sake of founding their empire on the fear of
physical evils."
So little was known of this country prior to the
visit of this admirable Traveller, that, although this
catastrophe took place not seventy years ago, and
within six days' journey of the capital of Mexico, it
had remained altogether unknown to the mineralo
gists and naturalists of Europe. It is remarkable,
M. Humboldt observes, that this new volcano was
formed in a direction parallel with the line, running
east and west, in which all the elevated summits of Ana.
huac are found, that rise into the region of perpetual
snow, and which are either active volcanoes, or peaks
apparently of volcanic character. Thus, between lat.
18° 59' and 19° 12',* receding from the Atlantic coast,
we find the peak of Orizaba, the two volcanoes of
Puebla, the nevado of Toluca, the peak of Tancitaro,
the volcano of Jorullo, and lastly, that of Colima.
These great elevations, instead of forming the crest
of the Cordillera, traverse the great chain which forms
the table-land. In connexion with this curious fact,
it is mentioned, that, from the lake of Cuiseo in this
intendancy, which is impregnated with muriate of
soda, and exhales sulphuretted hydrogen, to the city
of Valladolid, an extent of forty square leagues, there
are a great number of hot wells, which generally con
tain only muriatic acid, without any traces of earthy
* The volcano of Tuxtla, mentioned vol. i. p. 227, is rather to
the south of this line, according to Humboldt's map, and he omits
it in his enumeration in this place ; yet, its position serves to con
firm the general observation.

MEXICO. 127
sulphates or metallic salts. Such are the mineral
waters of Chucandiro, Cuinche, San Sebastian, and
San Juan Tararamco. From these indications of
volcanic action in this particular region, Humboldt
infers, that there probably exists in this part of
Mexico, at a great depth in the heart of the earth,
a chasm, in a direction from east to west, and for a
length of 137 leagues, along which the volcanic fire,
bursting through the interior crust of the porphyritic
rocks, has at different epochs made its appearance.
" Does this chasm," he adds as a query, " extend to
the small groupe of islands called the Archipelago of
Revillagigedo, around which, in the same parallel
with the Mexican volcanoes, pumice-stone has been
seen floating ?"
The most southern intendancy of Mexico, and one
of the most valuable portions of the empire, is the
intendancy of

This fine province, from which Cortes took his
title of marquis (del Valle de Oaxaca), derives its
name from the Mexican city and valley of llua.r-
yacac, one of the principal places of the Zapotec
country, and almost as considerable as Teotzapotlan,
their capital. It is bounded, on the north, by Vera
Cruz ; on the east, by Guatimala ; on the west, by
Puebla ; and on the south, for eleven leagues of coast,
by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent of surface exceeds
that of Bohemia and Moravia together, being 4,447
square leagues. Its population in 1803, was 534,800,
being only 120 inhabitants to the square league,
which is one-seventh below the average number in the

128 MEXICO.
nine intendancies south of the. tropic, but relatively
equal to the population of European Russia. Ac
cording to Humboldt's description of its physical ad
vantages, however, this province may be expected to
advance very rapidly in improvement and population
under a liberal and patriotic government. " The in
tendancy of Oaxaca," he says, " is one of the most
delightful countries in this part of the globe. The
beauty and salubrity of the climate, the fertility of
the soil, and the richness and variety of its produc
tions, all minister to the prosperity of the inhabitants ;
and this province has accordingly been, from the re
motest period, the centre of an advanced civilisation.
The vegetation is beautiful and vigorous throughout
the province, and especially half way down the de
clivity of the table-land, in the temperate region,
where the rains are veiy copious from May to Octo
ber. This intendancy alone has preserved the culti
vation of the cochineal (coccus cacti), a branch of
industry which it formerly shared with Puebla and
New Galicia." The mines are not very considerable:
hitherto, at least, they have not proved very pro
ductive. Those which have been worked with the
greatest care, are those of Villalta, Zolaga, Ixtepexi,
and Totomistla. They are all included in one depu-
tacion, or mining district, and form the eighth groupe
in Humboldt's classification, extending from lat. 16°
40' to 18° N., and from long. 98° 15' to 99° 50' W.
The annual produce he was unable to ascertain, and
it is set down as doubtful.
The geological structure of the mountain districts
singularly differs from that which is observed in
Puebla, Mexico, and Valladolid. In place of the
strata of basalt, porphyry, and amygdaloid, which
are found from the eighteenth to the twenty-second

MEXICO. 129
parallel, the mountains of Mixteca and Zapoteca are
composed of granite and gneiss. The elevation of
their highest summits is not known ; but, from the
Cerro de Senpualtepec, near Villalta, which is con
sidered as one of the most elevated, both oceans are
visible. This extent of horizon would only indicate,
however, Humboldt says, an elevation of 7,700 feet.
The same sight may also be obtained at La Ginetta,
twelve leagues from the port of Tehuantepec, on the
great road from Mexico to Guatimala.
Oaxaca (sometimes written Guaxaca), the provin
cial capital, built on the site of the ancient Huaxyacac,
was called Antequera at the beginning of the conquest.
Mr. Robinson describes it as " the neatest, cleanest,
and most regularly built city in the kingdom." " The
edifices are constructed with a green stone, which
preserves its colour to perpetuity, and gives the city
an appearance of freshness, such as we have never
seen in any other. The convent of San Francisco,
built more than 200 years ago, looks at this day as if it
had just come from the hands of the architect. Streams
of the purest water flow through all the streets ; and
in all the squares, are beautiful public fountains.
The fruits both of the torrid and the temperate zones
are to be seen every day in the market-place. We have
seen on one side of the road, trees loaded with oranges,
and on the other, fields of wheat. The climate of this
city is considered as equal to that of any other in New
Spain : the thermometer rarely falls below 63°, nor
ranges higher than 78°. The inhabitants are well
made and remarkable for longevity. The women
are likewise distinguished for their beauty and viva
city."* According to the imperfect census of 1792,
* Robinson's Memoirs, vol. U. p. 152.

130 MEXICO.
the population of this city was 24,000,* but this can be
regarded as merely an approximation to the actual
number. The territory of the marquisate of Cortes,
comprising 4 villas and 49 pueblos, was computed to
contain 17,700 inhabitants. Mr. Robinson states,
that the most populous Indian villages in all Mexico
are found in this province, but he furnishes no details.
" Along the coast," he adds, " the climate is de
structive of health ; but the greater part of the pro
vince, particularly the mountains of the Misteca, is
famed for its pure and salubrious air."
The district of Mixteca, the ancient Mixtecapan,
formed, prior to the conquest, a distinct territory, in
habited by a race differing from the Indians of Zapo
teca, the south-eastern part of the intendancy. It is
divided into Upper (alta) and Lower (baxa) Mixteca.
The Indians of this district are described by Hum
boldt as an " active, intelligent, and industrious peo
ple." On the road from Orizaba to Oaxaca, is the
town of San Antonio de los Cues, " a very populous
place, and celebrated for the remains of ancient Mexi
can fortifications."
The district of Zapoteca contains one of the most
remarkable monuments of ancient civilisation in all
Mexico, " the palace ofMitla;" a name contracted
from Miguitlan, which signifies in the Aztec, " place
of wo." " This term," says the learned Traveller so
often cited, " seems to have been well chosen for a
site so savage and lugubrious, that, according to the
testimony of travellers, the warbling of birds is there
* Mr. Robinson states that, according to a census taken in 1808,
the province contains 600,000 inhabitants ; the city, 38,000 1 and
the number of cities, towns, and villages, exceeds 800. " We have
visited," he says, " several villages containing 6 and 7000 inhabit
ants ;" yet not one-eighth part of tlie province is under cultivation.

MEXICO. 131
scarcely ever heard. The Tzapotec Indians call these
ruins Leoba or Luiva (burial, or tomb), alluding to
the excavations found beneath the walls." This ele
gant ruin is about ten leagues distant from Oaxaca,
on the road to Tehuantepec. It is of unknown an
tiquity. According to the tradition of the natives,
which is confirmed by the distribution of its parts, it
was "a palace constructed over the tombs of the
kings," to which, it is supposed, the monarch retired
on the death of a son, a wife, or a brother. " The
tombs of Mitla consist of three edifices symmetrically
placed in an extremely romantic situation. The prin
cipal edifice, which is in the best preservation, is
nearly 130 feet in length. A stair, formed in a pit,
leads to a subterranean apartment, 88 feet long by
26. This gloomy apartment, as well as the exterior
walls of the edifice, is covered with a la grecque and
arabesque ornaments. But what distinguishes the
ruins of Mitla from all the other remains of Mexican
architecture, is, six porphyry columns, which are
placed in the midst of a vast hall, and support the
ceiling. These columns, almost the only ones found
in the New Continent, bear strong marks ofthe infancy
of the art. They have neither base nor capital. Only a
simple contraction of the upper part is observable. Their
total height is nearly nineteen feet ; the shaft of each
is of a single piece of porphyry ; but broken fragments
for ages heaped together, conceal more than a third of
the height of these columns." The ceiling which they
served to support, was formed of beams of savine wood,
three of which are stiB in good preservation. " The
roof consisted of very large slabs."
According to a plan of the palace, drawn by a
Mexican artist, Don Luis Martin, there originally
existed at Mitla, five separate buildings, disposed

132 MEXICO.
with great regularity. " A very large gate, some
vestiges of which are still to be seen, led to a spacious
court, 150 feet square. Heaps of earth and remains
of subterraneous structures indicate that four small
edifices of oblong form surrounded this court. That
on the right is in a state of tolerable preservation,
and the remains of two columns still exist. In the
principal edifice, we distinguish, first, a terrace, raised
three or four feet above the level of the court, and
surrounding the walls, to which it served at the same
time as a base ; secondly, a niche formed in the wall,
between four and five feet above the level of the hall
with pillars. This niche, which is broader than it is
high, is supposed to have enclosed an idol. The prin
cipal door of the hall is cpvered with a stone twelve
feet long by three. Next, after entering the inner
court, is seen the well, or opening of the tomb. A
very broad staircase leads to the excavation, which is
in the form of a cross, supported by columns. The
two galleries, which intersect each other at right
angles, are each eighty-two feet long by twenty-five.
Lastly, three small apartments surround the inner
court, and behind the niche is a fourth, with which
they have no communication. The different parts
of this edifice present very striking inequalities and a
want of symmetry. In the interior of the apartments
are paintings representing weapons, trophies, and sa
crifices. There is no appearance of their having ever
had windows."
" The arabesques (with which the exterior walls
are covered) form a kind of mosaic work, composed of
several square stones (of porphyry), placed with much
dexterity by the side of each other. The mosaic is
attached to a mass of clay, which appears to fill up
the inside of the walls, as is also observed in some

MEXICO. 133
Peruvian edifices. The length of these walls on the
same line, is only about 130 feet ; their height probably
never exceeded fifteen or sixteen feet. This edifice,
however, though small, might produce some effect by
the arrangement of its parts, and the elegant form of
its ornaments. Several of the Egyptian temples are
of still less considerable dimensions- In the environs
of Mitla are remains of a great pyramid, and some
other buildings very much resembling these."
" The Greek ornaments of the palace of Mitla pre
sent, no doubt," continues M. Humboldt, " a striking
analogy to those of the vases of lower Italy, and to
others which we find spread over the surface of almost
the whole of the Old Continent. We perceive in them
the same design which we admire in the vases falsely
called Tuscan (Etruscan ?), or in the frieze of the
ancient temple near the grotto of Egeria at Rome."
But the perfection of these ornaments, he contends,
" is no indication of any great progress of civilisation
in the people among whom they are found. M. Kru-
senstern gives a description of arabesques of great
elegance, fixed, by means of tattooing, on the skins of
the most savage inhabitants of Washington's Islands."*
Without running into hypothesis, however, the orna
ments in question, and the whole style of the building,
are so little in unison with the character ef the Mex-

* Pol. Essay, vol. ii. pp. 191—4. Researches, vol. ii. pp. 152—9.
The learned Author promises to give a further account of these
interesting remains in his personal narrative ; but that portion of
it relating to New Spain, has never as yet made its appearance.
He does not, however, seem to have visited Mitla himself. The
drawing given in the Picturesque Atlas, was communicated by
Don Luis Martin. The whole of this district merits the particular
attention of the future traveller. We should have been glad to
give a view of this interesting site, but Humboldt's plate exhibits
only some fragments of wall.

134 MEXICO.
ican ieoeallis, that they would seem to justify our
referring them to a people of distinct origin. M. Hum
boldt thinks it scarcely probable, that the edifice is of
a date anterior to the thirteenth or fourteenth cen
tury. Possibly, a further examination may throw
some light on its comparative antiquity. It will de
serve also to be ascertained, whether the excavation
be natural or wholly artificial. The " great pyramid,"
of the existence of which we are somewhat sceptical,
claims particular attention ; and it will be important
to ascertain, what apparent analogy there is between
the ruins of Mitla and those of Palenque, and other
ancient remains in the kingdom of Guatimala ; par
ticularly the cavern of Mixco in the valley of Xilo-
petec, the entrance to which is stated to have a
" Doric portico."
An interesting natural curiosity is found at the vil
lage of Santa Maria del Tule, three leagues east of
Oaxaca, between Santa Lucia and Tlacochiguaya. It
is an ancient cypress (cupressus disticha), the trunk of
which is still larger than that of the cypress of At-
lixco,* measuring nearly 120 feet in circumference.
On a minute examination, however, its enormous
bulk is found to be composed of three trunks that have
grown together.
The only port in this intendancy mentioned by
Humboldt, is that of Tehuantepec or Teguantepec,
situated at the bottom of a creek formed by the ocean
between the small villages of San Francisco, San
Dionisio, and Santa Maria de la Mar. " This port,"
says Humboldt, " though impeded by a very dangerous
bar, will become one day of great consequence, when
navigation in general, and especially the exportation
* See vol. i. p. 250.

MEXICO. 135
of the indigo of Guatimala, shall become more frequent
by the Rio Guasacualco." As a port, it hardly de
serves the name : none but small vessels can pass the
bar, and without, they are exposed in an open road
stead. The sands brought down by the river Chima-
lapa, increase the bar every year, and the town of
Tehuantepec is now four leagues from the sea. But
it is at this part of the isthmus, between the bay of
Tehuantepec and the port of Guasacualco, that the
continent is narrowest, the distance from the Atlantic
to the Pacific Ocean not exceeding 45 leagues.* The
isthmus of Tehuantepec comprises, under the parallel
of 16° N., the sources of the Guasacualco (or Huasa-
cualco), which discharges itself into the Gulf of Mex
ico, and those of the Chimalapa, which mingles its
waters with the Southern Ocean near the Barra de
San Francisco. The approximation of the sources of
these two rivers, (which, according to Mr. Robinson,
are within five leagues of each other,) suggested to
the patriotic viceroy, Count de Revillagigedo, the
project of a canal to connect the two seas. A fortu
nate accident, Humboldt informs us, towards the end
of the last century, was the means of directing the
attention of the Mexican Government to this part of
the isthmus.
" There was discovered, in 1771, at Vera Cruz,
amongst the artillery of the castle of San Juan de Ulua,
several pieces of cannon, cast at Manilla. As it was
known that, before the year 1767, the Spaniards nei
ther doubled the Cape of Good Hope nor Cape Horn,
in their voyage to the Philippine Islands, and that
since the first expeditions of Magellan and Loysa, who

* Mr. Robinson states the latitude of Guasacualco loosely at
about 111° 31. ; that of Tehuantepec at about 16° 3fi'.

136 MEXICO.
set out from Spain, all the commerce of Asia was car
ried on in the Galleon of Acapulco, they could not
conceive how these guns had crossed the continent of
Mexico on their way from Manilla to the Castle of
Ulua. The extreme difficulty of the road from Aca
pulco to Mexico, and from thence to Xalapa and Vera
Cruz, rendered it very improbable that they should
come by that way. In the course of their investiga
tions, they learned both from the chronicle of Tehu
antepec * written by Father Burgoa, and from the
traditions preserved among the inhabitants of the
Isthmus of Huasacualco, that these guns were cast at
the Island of Luzon, and landed at the Bar of San
Francisco ; that they had ascended the bay of Santa
Teresa, and the Rio Chimalapa ; that they had been
carried by the farm of Chivela and the forest of
Tarifa to the Rio del Malpasso ; and that, after hav
ing been again . embarked, they descended the Rio
Huasacualco, to its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico.
" It was then very reasonably observed, that this
road, which had been frequented in the beginning of
the conquest, might still become very useful for the
opening a direct communication between the two seas.
The viceroy, Don Antonio Bucareli, gave orders to two
able engineers, Don Augustin Cramer and Don Miguel
del Corral, to examine with the greatest minuteness,
the country between the Bar/of Huasacualco and the
road of Tehuantepec ; and he instructed them at the
same time to verify whether, as was vaguely supposed,
among the small rivers of Ostuta, Chicapa, or Chima
lapa, there was 'none which in any of its branches
communicated with the two seas. From the itinerary
* •' Burgoa, Palestra Historial o Cronica de la Villa de Tehu
antepec. Mexico, 1074."

MEXICO. 137
journals of these two engineers, of whom the former
was lieutenant of the castle of Ulua, I drew up my
map of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. They found that
no river discharged at the same time its waters into
the South Sea and the Atlantic Ocean ; that the Rio
Huasacualco did not take its rise, as the viceroy had
been informed, near the town of Tehuantepec ; and
that, on ascending it beyond the cataract, even as far
as the old desembarcadero of Malpasso, they were still
more than twenty-six leagues distant from the shores
of the South Sea. They observed that a chain of
mountains, of very inconsiderable height, divides the
waters between the gulf of Mexico and the gulf of
Tehuantepec. This small cordillera stretches from
east to west, from the Cerros de los Mixes, formerly
inhabited by a wild and warlike tribe * towards the
elevated table-land of Portilla de Petapa. The en
gineer, Cramer, affirms, however, that to the. south
of the village of Santa Maria de Chimalapa, the
mountains form a groupe rather than an uninterrupted
chain, and ' that there exists a transversal valley, in
which a canal of communication might be cut between
the two seas.' This canal, which would unite the
Rio de Chimalapa with the Rio del Passo (or Mal-
passo), would be only six leagues in length. The boats
would ascend the Rio Chimalapa, which affords a very
easy navigation from Tehuantepec to the village of
San Miguel; and from thence, they would pass by the
canal projected in the time of Count de Revillagigedo;
to the Rio del Passo. This river discharges itself
into the Rio de Huasacualco near the Bodegas de la
Fabrica ; but its navigation is extremely difficult on
account of the seven rapids (raudales) which are
* " Cartas de Cortez, p. 372."

138 MEXICO.
counted between its source and the mouth' of the Rio
de Saravia.
" It would be of infinite importance again to order
this* ground to be examined by intelligent engineers,
to determine whether, as was believed by M. Cramer,
the canal between the two seas can be executed with
out locks, or without inclined planes, and whether, by
blowing up the rocks with powder, the beds of the
rivers Passo and Chimalapa can be deepened. The
Isthmus is rich in cattle, and would, from its great
fertility, supply valuable productions for the commerce
of Vera Cruz. The fine plains of Tehuantepec would
be susceptible of irrigation from the Rio de Chimalapa:
in their present state, they produce a little indigo and
cochineal of a superior quality.
" Before setting on foot, in the Islands of Cuba and
Pinos, the felling of cedar and acajou wood (cedrela
odorata and swietenia mahogany), the dock-yards of
the Havannah drew their wood for ship-building from
the thick forest which covers the northern slope of
the Cerros de Petapa and Tarifa. The Isthmus of
Tehuantepec was at that time very much frequented,
and the ruins of several houses which are still to be
seen on the two banks of the river Huasacualco, are to
be dated back to that period. The cedar and acajou
wood was embarked at the Bodegas de Malpasso.
" To avoid the seven rapids of the Rio del Passo, a
new port (desembarcadero) was established in 1798, at
the mouth of the Rio de Saravia : the salt provisions
(tasajo) of Tehuantepec, the indigo of Guatimala, and
the cochineal of Oaxaca, were conveyed by this way to
Vera Cruz and the Havannah. A rbad has been
opened from Tehuantepec, by Chihuitan, Llano Grande,
Santa Maria Petapa, and Guchicovi, to the new port
of La Cruz. They reckon this road thirty-four

MEXICO.- 139
leagues. The productions destined for the Havannah
do not descend to the mouth of the Rio Huasacualco,
or to the small port of that name, because they are
afraid of exposing their canoes to the north winas,
during the long passage from the bar of Huasacualco
to the port of Vera Cruz. They disembark the goods
at the Passo de la Fabrica ; and from thence they are
conveyed on the backs of mules, by the village of Aca-
yucan to, the banks of the river San Juan, where they
are again embarked in large canoes, and transported
by the bar of Tlacatalpan to the port of Vera Cruz."
By this road, which was completed in the year
1800, the river Guasacualco forms a commercial com
munication, though an imperfect one, between the
two oceans. When Spain was at war with Great
Britain, the indigo of Guatimala was brought by way
of this isthmus to the port of Vera Cruz, whence it
was exported to Europe ; but the carriage of goods on
the back of mules, from Tehuantepec to Vera Cruz,
by Oaxaca, was, in 1804, as high as thirty piasters
(61. 6_.) per load; and the muleteers took three
months in accomplishing the journey, though the dis
tance is not 75 leagues in a straight line. By way of
the isthmus and the river Guasacualco, Humboldt
states, nearly half the expense, of carriage, and seventy
days, might be saved.-
The mouth of the Guasacualco has already been
referred to as one of the four points to which it was
proposed to transfer the commerce of Vera Cruz ;* and
it would seem to be by far the most eligible. The
inhabitants of Oaxaca have long been bent on this
favourite object. So far back as the year 1745, a me
morial was presented to the viceroy by several distin-
* Vol. i. p. 354.
PART III": K

140 MEXICO.
guished Creoles, praying him to represent to the court
of Madrid, the immense benefits to the kingdom that
would result from making Guasacualco a port of entry,
and the grand commercial depot, instead of Vera
Cruz. This memorial, a copy of which Mr. Robinson
saw when at Oaxaca, in 1816, after giving a topogra
phical description of the isthmus, and expatiating on
the beauty and fertility of the country, explicitly
declares, that the projected canal is a feasible measure.
It then goes on to State, that, should political reasons
forbid its formation, a road might be cut across the
ridge, by which property could be transported in
carriages at a moderate expense. The memorial was
transmitted to the Spanish Government ; but " the
Cadiz monopolists and the Philippine Company
viewed with alarm a project that threatened to divert
the trade out of its ordinary channels. The mercan
tile establishments they had formed at Acapulco and
Vera Cruz, and the expensive edifices they had erected
at those places, would become valueless in proportion
as this should be effected. These parties, therefore,
and their agents in Mexico, put in action every
engine" of intrigue in order to defeat the wishes of the
Oaxaca memorialists. The memorial was placed
among the secret royal archives at.Madrid ;. that is, it
was laid on the shelf of oblivion ; and the only notice
ever bestowed on it, was an order from the Court,
prohibiting the parties from ever reviving the subject
under pain of the royal displeasure ; and severely re
primanding, or stigmatising the Oaxaca' memorialists,
as audacious innovators of the established regulations
and commerce of the kingdom."* The Count de
Revillagigedo himself is stated to have incurred the
* Robinson's Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 301.

MEXICO. 141
displeasure of the cabinet, by favouring the project of
a water communication between the two rivers.
The harbour of Guasacualco is stated by Mr. Ro
binson to be the most spacious and secure of any on
the Atlantic coast. " It is," he says, " the only port
,in the Mexican Gulf, where vessels of war and others
.of. a large size can enter,* and is far superior either to
Pehsacola or Espiritu Santo. There are, at all sea
sons, on the bar at the mouth of the port, twenty-two
feet water ; and it is said, that, during the flood of the
river, the bar occasionally shifts, and affords passages
in five and six fathoms water. Some years ago, a
Spanish ship of the line, called the Asia, crossed the
bar of Guasacualco, and anchored in the port. The
river is navigable for vessels of the largest size, to
within twelve leagues of the navigable waters of the
Chimalapa and Tehuantepec. The latter river admits
vessels drawing twenty feet watetr. It was on this
river that Cortes constructed ships, when he sent
Pedro de Alvarado to conquer Guatimala." The ex
pedition of Fernando de Grixalv a to California, in
1534, sailed also from Tehuantepec ; and in like man
ner, the vessels in which Cortes embarked at Cha-
metla, in the following year, were constructed at the
mouth of the Chimalapa, of materials brought by the
river Guasacualco ; so early had this part of the coast
attracted the attention of the Spaniards. One of these
vessels was lost in crossing the bar of St. Francis, on
leaving the laguna of Santa Theresa. The topography
' * See p. 24 of the present volume. This gentleman mentions, on
hearsay information, a port, which he calls Matagorda, as the best
to the north of Vera Cruz : it is, he says, in lat. 28° 30', about half
way between the rivers Sabine and Del Norte, and has twenty feet
on the bar. No such port is mentioned by Humboldt, but he con
fesses that this part of the coast had never been accurately explored.
The latitude is that of the entrance to the Bay of St. Bernard.

142 MEXICO.
of the isthmus of Tehuantepec, however, Humboldt
remarks, (and he might have added, the hydrography
of the whole coast,) is altogether unknown in Europe.
The memorial of the Oaxacan citizens speaks of a
number of valuable ports on .the coast of this inten
dancy, which are set down, indeed, in Humboldt's map,
but respecting which nothing is known. They par
ticularly mention, Mr. Robinson says, besides Tehu
antepec, San Diego, Santa Oruz de Guatulco, Caca-
lutla, San Augustin, Puerto de los Angeles, Escondido,
and the bay of Mazuntla. " The port of Escondido
(hidden port) has," it is added, " a narrow but excel
lent entrance, which is only disoovered on a very near
approach to the coast ; it is as spacious as Acapulco,
and would afford perfectly secure moorings for hundreds
of vessels. It could easily be fortified, so as to Tender
it impregnable to external attacks. The port of Santa
Cruz de Guatulco, likewise, is equal to any on the
shores of the Pacific, and is situated only 35 leagues S.
-of the city of Oaxaca."
Of the feasibleness of a canal between the two
rivers, this Traveller entertains little doubt. By
some extraordinary convulsion of nature, he states,
vast chasms or ravines have been formed among the
mountains which traverse the isthmus ; and during
the rainy season, these chasms contain a vast body of
water, which seeks its discharge by rivers flowing into
either ocean. " The Indians of the isthmus, parti
cularly those of Tabasco and Tehuantepec, assert that
they pass with their canoes entirely through the
isthmus. We endeavoured, while at Oaxaca, to ascer
tain this fact, and are convinced, that when the
waters are at their height during the rainy season, a
canoe may pass, by the sinuosities of the ravines, from
the Guasacualco to the rivers Chimalapa and Tehuan-

MEXICO. 143
tepee. We will not positively assert that a navigable
canal may be formed so as to unite the waters of these
three rivers, but we believe it practicable." No
doubt, however, he adds, can exist, " that a good
carriage road might be made, of from twelve to four
teen leagues, along the sides of the mountains, by
which every species of merchandise could be trans
ported with ease, in a few hours, from the waters of
the Chimalapa to those of the Guasacualco." By this
means, the passage of the isthmus might, he calculates,
be effected in less than six days. A steam-vessel could
perform the voyage from Tehuantepec to Canton, in
less than 50 days, and might get from the same port to
the mouth of Colombia river, in from 18 to 24 days:
The voyage from Philadelphia to Guasacualco would
occupy six days. Thus, by means of steam-boat navi
gation, Mr. R. reckons, that a voyage from theUnited
States to China might be performed in less than
sixty-three days, the route being shortened by a fourth ;
and from Philadelphia to Colombia river, on the north
west coast, in from thirty to thirty-six days, a distance
being saved of more than two-thirds. These calcula
tions would at one time have appeared extremely
visionary : they now require only to be verified.
The population of Tehuantepec, Mr. Robinson adds,
are among the most active and healthy race of Indians
in the country. " The Indian females may properly
be styled the Circassians of Southern (Central) Ame
rica. Their piercing eyes give to their countenance
an extraordinary animation ; their long black hair is
neatly plaited, and adorned with combs, made of gold
or tortoise-shell ; while the celerity and grace of their
movements strike a stranger with astonishment. They
are vciy industrious, and manufacture nearly all their
own clothing. They are remarkable for their cleanli-
K 2

144 MEXICO.
ness, and are fond of bathing." The Spanisli Govern
ment, during the recent revolution, looked upon
these Indians with a jealous eye, in consequence of
their known predilection for the insurgents. The
vioinity of the town to the sea-coast, and its being
situated on a navigable river, were circumstances that
gave the Government much uneasiness, because they
were aware, that if a foreign enemy should land on the
coast of Oaxaca, they would be received with open
arms 'by the Indians of Tehuantepec, and, indeed, by
the greater part of the population of the whole pro
vince. The intendancy of Oaxaca, continues Mr. Robinson,
" not only possesses an immense population, but
is of the highest importance for its valuable produc
tions. It is the region of New Spain that appears the
most favourable to the production of the important
article of cochineal. In no other part of Mexico does
the nopal (on which tree the cochineal insect subsists)
flourish so well. Its propagation has been unsuccess
fully attempted in various other provinces ; but not
only do the climate and soil appear peculiarly adapted
to .this plant in Oaxaca, but -the Indians have, by a
long course of practice, acquired so much experience in
the manner of cultivating the nopal, and collecting the
insects, as to preclude all ri valship in any of the other
provinces. In some years there nave been produced,
in Oaxaca, four hundred thousand pounds weight of
cochineal ;- this is worth in Europe, even during peace,
about one million six hundred thousand dollars.
During war, it has frequently sold in England at
twenty-five shillings sterling per pound. The poor
Indian who collects this precious commodity, barters it
for manufactured goods to the Spanish shop-keepers in
. the villages. The extortion of these men, together with

MEXICO. 1%5
-the exactions of the Government and the priesthood,
leave to the Indian a miserable return for his care and
industry ; but we have no doubt, that if these unjust
and unnatural restrictions on the labour of the natives
were removed, the intendancy of Oaxaca would, in a
very few years, produce above a million of pounds of
cochineal per annum.
" The mountains of this intendancy, particularly
those of the Misteca, are likewise peculiarly adapted
to the growth of the mulberry-tree. Many years ago,
the experiment was made, and it succeeded so well,
that it awakened the jealousy of the European Spa
niards; and they created so many obstacles to the
manufacturing of silk in Oaxaca, that the Indians
became exasperated, and in one night destroyed every
mulberry-tree in the intendancy ; since which time no
attempts have been made to renew its culture.
" The indigo ofthe district of Tehuantepec, is supe
rior in quality to that of Guatimala ; but, as there are
no ports open to foreign commerce along the coast of
the Pacific Ocean, in the vicinity of Tehuantepec, nor,
indeed, on any part of the coast of Oaxaca, the inha
bitants have not been stimulated either to the culture
of that, or of the cotton-plant, or of the sugar-cane,
except so far as is absolutely necessary to snpply their
own immediate consumption.
" In all the mountainous districts of Oaxaca, and
more especially in the spacious valleys which are situ.
ated from twenty-five lrundred to six thousand feet
above the level of the sea, we find a soil and climate
at least equal, if not superior, to any on the globe.
There is not a single article raised iii the temperate
zone, that would not here find a congenial region.
Wheat and all kinds of grain yield a return to the
cultivator, equal to that of the most fertile parts of

146 MEXICO.
Europe. The fruits and vegetables of Oaxaca are un
rivalled for luxuriance and delicacy. Peaches, pears,
apricots, and strawberries, are here to be found of a
size and flavour superior to those of the south of
France ; and the variety and excellence of the grape
point out the valleys of Oaxaca as the great future
vineyards of New Spain. Asparagus, artichokes, tur
nips, cabbages, and all the various productions of hor
ticulture, grow to a size and perfection we have never
beheld elsewhere.
" To all these important natural advantages of this
favoured country, must be added that of its mineral
productions. Some of the most valuable gold mines
of New Spain are in this province ; but they have not
yet been extensively worked, inasmuch as the atten
tion of the directors of the mining establishments in
Mexico has been principally directed to the mines of
Guanaxuato, and of other provinces, silver mines
being considered more profitable than those of gold.
The Indians of the Upper and Lower Misteca, as well
as those of the district of Tehuantepec, collect grains
of gold in the beds of the rivulets that flow through
the mountains ; and larger masses of gold have been
found in Oaxaca, than in any other part of New
Spain. Indications of silver ore are, likewise, disco
verable in all the mountainous districts ; but as yet,
scarcely any attention has been paid to them. In fact,
there cannot be a doubt that this province abounds in
all the precious minerals ; and when the use of ma
chinery shall be introduced, and the restrictions on
human industry and enterprise be removed, this pro
vince will yield as much gold and silver as any other
in America. It is worthy of remark, likewise, that
copper and iron ore have been found in different parts
0. Oaxaca. In the village of Yanhuitlan, there is a

MEXICO. 147
large piece of metalt which the blacksmiths of the
place use as an anvil. It was found on the summit of
a hill near the village, and is of an extraordinary
-weight for its dimensions. Various attempts have
been made to fuse it, but it has resisted the most
intense heat."
This mass of metal is termed, in some manuscript
notes, drawn up by generals Teran and Bustamente,
platina; a metal which, according to Humboldt, has
never yet been discovered in any part of America
north of Panama. Mr. Robinson says : " The mine
ralogists will of course pronounce it to beimpossible,
and we are content." Whatever the metal may he,
the fact is curious, and the statements of this intelli
gent American, being drawn from native sources,
merit attention. It will not be long before the topo
graphy of this valuable province will be better known
to us. No part of Mexico is more accessible than this
province. According to Mr. Robinson, an army could
march in 48 hours from the port of Guasacualco to
the table-land of Oaxaca. We trust that no invading
army will ever be allowed to make such an experiment ;
but British and American merchants and travellers
may ere long be able to report as to the practicability
of the route.
It only remains to give some account of the great
peninsula of Yucatan, situated between the bays of
Campeachy and Honduras, which forms the inten
dancy of MERIDA.
This province, which is separated, on the south-west,
by the Rio Baraderas or de los Lagartos (lizards),*
* The mouth of this river is stated to be in lat. 21° 34' N. ; long.
90° 30* 15" W. of Paris.

148 MEXICO.
from the intendancy of Vera Cruz,, is bounded on the
south by Chiapa and Vera Paz in Guatimala; and on
the west, by the English establishments, which extend
along the eastern coast, from the mouth of the river
Hondo to the north of Hanover Bay, opposite. the
island of Ubero (Ambergris key). Cape Catoche, its
north-eastern point (in lat. 21° 30'), is only 51 leagues
distant from Cape San Antonio, the western extremity
of the island of Cuba, which is supposed at a remote
period to have formed part of the American continent.
The northern coast of Yucatan is observed to follow
exactly the direction of the " current of rotation" or
gulf stream. The peninsula consists of a vast plain,
intersected from N.E. to S.W. by a chain of hills of
small elevation. " The country which extends east
from these hills towards the hays of Ascension and
Espiritu Santo, appears to be the most fertile part,
and was the earliest inhabited. The ruins of Euro
pean edifices in the island of Cozumel,* in the midst
of a grove of palm-trees, indicate that that island,
now uninhabited, was, at the commencement of the
conquest, peopled by Spanish colonists. Since the
settlement of the English between Omoa and the
Rio Hondo, the Government, to diminish the con
traband trade, concentrated the Spanish and Indian
population in that part of the peninsula which is
west of the . mountains of Yucatan. Colonists are
not permitted to settle on the eastern coast, on the
banks of the Rio Bacalar and Rio Hondo ; and all this
vast country remains uninhabited, with the exception
of the presidio of Salamanca."
The extent of the intendancy of Merida, is stated at
nearly 6000 square leagues ; the population, in 1803,
* See vol. i. p. 6.

MEXICO. 149
at 465,800, being" only 81 to the square league ; and
this in one of the healthiest, though one of the warm
est provinces of equinoctial America. This calcula
tion, however, does not include the several Indian
tribes who have preserved their independence in the
southern part of the mountain district, which is ren
dered almost inaccessible by thick forests and the lux
uriance of tropical vegetation. The only towns in
this intendancy mentioned by Humboldt, are Merida,
Campeche, and Valladolid.
Merida de Yucatan, the provincial capital, is situ
ated ten leagues in the interior, in the midst of an
arid plain : the population is estimated at 10,000. Its
small port is called Sizal, situated to the west of Cha-
boana, opposite a sand-bank nearly twelve leagues in
length, in lat. 21° 19' N., long. 92° 19' 45" W. of
Paris. Campeche has a resident population of 6000.
The port, formed by the mouth of the Rio de San
Francisco, is not very secure, and vessels are obliged
to anchor a great way from the shore. It derives its
name from two words in the Maya language ; cam
signifying serpent, and peche, the garapata insect
(acarus), both of whicbj it may be inferred, annoy the
inhabitants. It stands in lat. 19° 50' 45" N., long.
92° 50' 45" W. Between Campeche and Merida are
two very considerable Indian villages, called Xampo-
lan and Equetchecan. Valladolid is a small town, sur
rounded with extensive cotton-plantations.
The chief exports, besides the famous Campeche
wood, are cotton and wax. The trees which fur
nish this wood, (hamatoxylon campechianum,J grow
in abundance in several districts of this inten
dancy. The cutting takes place once a year, on
the banks of the river Champoton, the mouth of
which is to the south of Campeche, within four leagues

150 MEXICO.
of the small village of Lerma. " It is only with the
special permission ofthe intendant of Merida," Hum
boldt says, " that the merchant can frSm time to time
cut down Campeche wood to the east of the mountains,
near the bays of Ascension, Todos los Santos, and
Espiritu Santo, where the English carry on an exten
sive and lucrative contraband trade." After being
cut down, the wood must dry for a year, before it can
be sent to Vera Cruz, the Havannah, or Cadiz. The
tree is not peculiar to Yucatan and Honduras, but is
found scattered throughout the forests of the equinoc
tial regions, wherever the mean temperature of the
air is not below 71° of Fahrenheit. The climate of
Merida does not admit of the cultivation of European
grain, but the inhabitants cultivate maize and the
manioc root.
Humboldt attributes the salubrity of the climate in
this intendancy to the extreme dryness of the soil and
atmosphere. From Campeche to Cape Catoche, the
navigator does not find a single spring of fresh water ;
but, on the northern coast, a very remarkable pheno
menon occurs. At the mouth of the Rio de los La-
gartos, 1300 feet from the shore, springs of fresh water
spout up from amidst the salt water. They are called
the boccas (mouths) de Conil. The learned Traveller
supposes that, by some strong hydrostatic pressure, the
fresh water, after bursting the calcareous rock, between
the clefts of which it has flowed, is made to rise above
the level of the salt water. The same phenomenon is
found in the bay of Xagua, off the Island of Cuba.
The name of New Spain was at first given (in 1518)
only to the peninsula of Yucatan. Grijalva, who
landed here the year before the expedition of Cortes,
was astonished at the cultivation of the fields and
the beauty of the Indian edifices. Cortes afterwards

MEXICO. 151
extended the name to the whole empire of Montezuma.
Yucatan was never subject, however, to the Aztec
sultans. The first conquerors were struck with the
advanced civilisation of the inhabitants. They found
houses built of stone, cemented with lime, pyramidal
edifices (teoeallis), which they compared to Moorish
mosques, fields enclosed with hedges, and the people
clothed. Many ruins, particularly of sepulchral mo
numents, are still to be discovered to the east of the
small central chain of mountains. The language
spoken by the Indians of this intendancy is the Maya,
which is extremely guttural, and of which there exist
four tolerably complete dictionaries. The intendant
of Merida bore the title of captain-general of Yucatan,
and appears to have been in some degree independent
ofthe viceroy, it being recognised as a distinct territory.
We have now completed our survey of the twelve
intendancies and the th_ee provinces into which, by
the latest arrangement under the colonial system,
Mexico was divided. We have been compelled to
adhere to that arrangement, and to preserve the name
of intendancies, although, by the recent political
changes, these terms have been rendered obsolete,
and the distribution of the provinces has been some
what modified. . The present arrangement, however,
can hardly be considered as definitive. For instance,
the interior eastern provinces will not ultimately re
main consolidated into one state ; Texas will probably
be annexed to Louisiana, and Santander and Leon
will detach themselves from Cohahuila. Then, again,
Durango and New Mexico cannot eventually remain
united, nor will the latter be always dependent for its
supplies on the southern provinces. On the other
hand, Queretaro and Tabasco seem scarcely entitled
PA1T IV. 1.

152 MEXICO.
to rank as separate states. The latter, if detached
from Vera Cruz, might unite with Chiapa.* Other
changes will be introduced both in the Mexican
Federation and that of the Central States. As Chiapa,
however, though usually comprehended in Guatimala,
has adhered to Mexico, and now forms an integral part
of that republic, it may be proper, before concluding
our description of the latter country, to give some ac
count of it in this place.

This state, formerly an intendancy of Guatimala,
is bounded, on the north, by Tabasco ; on the north
east, by Yucatan ; on the east, by Totonicapan and
Suchiltepec ; on the west, by Oaxaca and Vera Cruz ;
and on the south, by the Pacific Ocean. It is
about 250 miles in length from east to west, and 90
miles in its extreme breadth, lying between lat. 14°
40', and 17° 30' N., and long. 93° 16', and 95° 46' W.
It contains 1 city, I town, 109 villages, and 128,000
ijihabitants.^- " What now forms the intendancy of
Chiapa," says a native historian, to whom we shall
have occasion to make frequent reference hereafter,
" was, in the period of its paganism, divided into five
* We regret that we have not more accurate information on the
subject of the present arrangement. The enumeration given by
Mr. Poinsett as taken from the " Constitutive Act of the Mexican
Nation," apparently omits the important province of Guadalaxara,
while it includes, as a separate state, Xalisco, a place not any where
mentioned by Humboldt; only, in his map', we find the port of
Xalisco Matanche on the coast of that intendancy, near the Cerro
del VaMe, in lat 21°. If this place be important enough to give its
name to the State, it is marvellous that it should never before have
been heard of. No geographical order is observed in the enume
ration. f J uarros's Hist, of Guatimala, p. 21,

MEXICO. 153
provinces, peopled by as many different nations, who
have, to the present day, preserved their distinct
idioms ; viz. Chiapa, Llanos, Tzendales, Zoques, and
Soconusco. Of the last, the Spaniards formed the
government of Soconusco, and of the other four, the
alcaldia mayor of Ciudad Real. By a royal order in
the year 1764, the latter was again subdivided to form
the alcaldia mayor of Tuxtla, which was composed of
the districts of Chiapa and ZOques, while those of
Llanos and Tzendales remained to Ciudad Real. In
1790, the intendancy of Chiapa was created, and these
three divisions were re-united under the jurisdiction
of the intendant, who resides in Ciudad Realj and has
a deputy at Tuxtla, Soconusco, and Comitan." * The
district of Soconusco, however, has been, by the recent
arrangements, again constituted a separate govern
ment; and the above description will not strictly
apply to the State of Chiapa, which, instead of reach
ing to the shores of the Pacific, is bounded by Soco
nusco on the south, and must be considered as wholly
an inland province. It has. already been stated, that
this province, lying contiguous alike to Mexico and
the Central States, was claimed by both ; and that,
the option being given to the inhabitants, Chiapa
declared its wish to join the Mexican union, while the
district of Soconusco adhered to the, Central Federa
tion. Thus, the province' has been divided between
the two Republics. The history of -Soconusco abounds
with vicissitudes. That district was the first into
which. Pedro de Alvarado penetrated, and the first
Indian villages that were reduced by him to the
Spanish dominion, were on this part of the coast. In
former times, it was one- of the most populous and
* J uarros's Hist, of Guatimala, p. 14.

154 MEXICO.
opulent districts in the kingdom of Guatimala. Its
ancient capital, from which the province took its
name, situated between the villages of San Domingo
de Escuintla and Acacozagua, contained a numerous
population, among whom were 200 Spaniards ; but
upwards of two centuries have elapsed since this
extensive town fell to decay, and became at length
entirely abandoned. For some time after the establish.
ment of the audiencia of Guatimala, Soconusco re
mained under the jurisdiction of that of Mexico. By
an edict of Jan. 20, 1553, it was annexed' to the royal
chancery of Guatimala. When that court was trans
ferred to the city of Panama, Soconusco reverted to
the audiencia of Mexico ; but, in Jan. 1569, another
edict restored it to Guatimala. It is supposed to have
belonged originally to the diocese of Tlascala ; on the
creation of the see of Guatimala, it was annexed to
that see ; for a short time it was transferred to the
bishopric of Vera Paz, but was soon restored to Gua
timala ; and finally, in 1596, it was transferred to the
bishopric of Chiapa. Its separation from Chiapa
will probably lead to another ecclesiastical changej
unless, which is not unlikely, it should be superseded
by the re-annexation of the district to the State of
Chiapa, as a part of the Mexican Union.
Ciudad Real, or Chiapa dos Espagnos, the capital of
the intendancy and an episcopal city, is situated in
the plain of Gueizacatlan, about 200 miles from the
Pacific Ocean, and 130 leagues N.W. of the city of
Guatimala: lat. 16° 35' N. ; long. 94° 16' W. The
population is inconsiderable, consisting of less than
4,000 inhabitants, an eighth of whom are Indians.
The city contains but one parish, that of the cathe
dral ; but there are four convents, a nunnery, a church
dedicated to Our Lady of Charity, two other chapels

MEXICO. 155
without the walls, and five for the Indians, one in
each of their barrios or wards. The Jesuits had also
a college here. The town was founded by Diego de
Mazariegos in 1528, with a view to keep in subjection
the province which he had with difficulty recovered,
after the revolt ofthe natives in 1526. It was at first
called Villa Real; for a short time it bore the name
of San Christoval de los Llanos; but, by an edict
dated July % 1536, the Emperor Charles the Fifth
ordered the name to be changed to Ciudad Real, and
granted it all the honours and privileges pf a city. It
is a place of some trade. In its vicinity are several
caverns, in which are found some very beautiful
stalactites. San Bartolome de los Llanos, the chief place in the
district so called, is a large village, containing, two
churches, with a population, including the surrounding
plantations, of 7>400 souls. San Jacinto Oeosingo,
the chief place in the district of Tzendales, contains
above 3,000 inhabitants. San Domingo Comitan, the
residence of the deputy-intendant, has a population of
nearly 7,000, including the plantations. The Domi
nicans have a good convent here. San Domingo Sina-
cantan is a very ancient village, containing about
2,000 inhabitants. It formerly belonged to the Mexi
can empire. In its vicinity are found " small steel-
coloured stones, of a cubical figure, and two or three
lines in length, called St. Anne's stones," which are
believed to have medicinal virtues : " it is asserted,
that persons suffering under hysterical affections
receive relief from drinking water in which they have
been boiled." San Juan Chamula is a large village ;
the population exceeding 6,000 persons. San Fer
nando de Guadalupe, a village on the bank of the
river Tulija, nine leagues from Tumbala, wa6 founded

156 MEXICO.
by the intendant of the province, in 179*> w'th the
view to facilitate the navigation of the river, and, by
its means, to open a communication with Campeche,
the lake of Terminos, Carmen, and other contiguous
points. It contains a few Spanish and Mulatto fami
lies, and about 200 Indians. The soil is fertile, and
adapted to the cultivation of the cane, pepper, and
cocoa. Tuxtla, the residence of the deputy-intendant
of the district to which it gives its name, contains " a
custom-house, a post-office, and a tobacco-manufac
tory." The population consists of a few Spanish fami
lies, and some mulattoes, but the greater part are
Indians, amounting altogether to between .4 and 5,000
souls. This place is 18 leagues from Ciudad Real,
and 140 leagues from Guatimala. Tecpatlan, the
chief place in the district of Zoques, contains about
2,300 inhabitants. But the largest place in the whole
province is Chiapa dos Indios, a very ancient village,
founded in 1527. It is advantageously situated in a
valley near the banks of the river Tabasco, in lat. 17°
5' N., long. 93° 53' W. ; about 36 miles W. of Ciudad
Real, and 358 miles S.E. of Mexico. The inhabitants
are chiefly Indians, but they are reported to be rich,
and a great deal of sugar is grown in the district.
They are said to amount to about 4,000 families.*
During the day, the heat is excessive, but the nights
are cold. This place enjoys many privileges, and will
probably rise in importance. We find it, indeed,
denominated in Alcedo's Dictionary, a city.
The climate of this intendancy is for the most part
hot and moist, but there are large tracts of rugged,
* Don D. Juarros states the population at 1,568 inhabitants.
¦Unless this be an error of the press for 15,680, the discrepancy is
unaccountably great.

MEXICO. 157
mountainous country, covered with forests of cedar,
cypress, pine, and walnut-trees. Extensive woods are
found also in the lower region, which abound. with the
American lion (miztli), the jaguar or ounce, the wild
boar, parrots of great beauty, and great numbers of ser
pents. Goats, sheep, and pigs, of the European breed,
have multiplied in this province to a remarkable degree ;
and the breed of horses is so much esteemed, that
colts are sent to Mexico. The chief productions are
cotton, cocoa, maize, cochineal, honey, and aromatic
gums. Our information with regard to this province
is very vague and imperfect, but it is evident 'that a
very small proportion of it has been brought under
cultivation. The population does not amount to quite
five-sixths of that of Vera Cruz, which contains only
38 inhabitants to every square league, but is about
twice as large. It appears, however, to have been,
prior to the conquest, the seat of an advanced civi.
lisation, and to have been well peopled. Near the
village of San Domingo Palenque, on the borders of
Yucatan, are considerable vestiges of an Indian capi
tal, which were accidentally discovered about the
middle of the last century, in the midst, of. a fertile
and salubrious tract of country, almost entirely depo-i
pulated. These remains, although both their anti-
jquity and their architectural beauty have been ab
surdly magnified, are highly interesting, and merit
the attention of future travellers. " This metropolis,"
says Don Domingo. Juarros, the historian of Guati
mala, " like another Herculaneum, not indeed over
whelmed by the torrent of another Vesuvius, but con
cealed for ages iff the midst of a vast desert, remained
unknown until the middle of the eighteenth century,
when some Spaniards having penetrated the dreafy
solitude, found themselves, to their great astonish,

1A8 MEXICO.
ment, within sight of the remains of what had once
been a superb city, six leagues in circumference. The
solidity of its edifices, the stateliness of its palaces,
and the magnificence of its public works, were not
surpassed by the vastness of its extent : temples, altars,
sculptures, and monumental stone3, bear testimony to
its vast antiquity." The hieroglyphics and emblems
found here, are represented by the learned historian
as bearing so strong a resemblance to those of the
Egyptians, that he is strongly inclined to ascribe them
to a colony of that nation !
The marvellous report brought back by the first
discoverers having reached the ears of the Spanish
Government, a royal mandate was issued in May
1786, directing a further examination of these ruins;
and Captain Don Antonio del Rio was appointed by
the Captain-general of Guatimala, to carry the man
date into execution. Being provided with a corps of
Indian pioneers, he proceeded to the spot ; but he had
first to open a road to the " Palencian city," and a
fortnight was occupied with felling and -firing the
timber with which the ruins were inaccessibly sur
rounded. Having succeeded by this means in obtain
ing not only a clear path, but a wholesome atmosphere
for his further operations, he set to work on the
Casas de Piedras, as the ruins are called ; and ulti
mately, he Says in his Report, " there remained nei
ther a window nor a doorway blocked up, a partition
that was not thrown down, nor a room, corridor,
court, or tower, unexplored, nor a subterranean passage
in which excavations were not effected from two to
three yards in depth." The original manuscript
document in which Don Antonio gives an account of
his proceedings, was brought to light not many years
ago, in an examination of the public archives of the

MEXICO. 159
city of Guatimala. It has since been made public in
the shape of an English translation, together with the
learned commentary Of Doctor Paul Felix Cabrera, of
New Guatimala, who is still more confident than his
fellow-citizen as to their Egyptian origin.* Don
Antonio's description of the site is as follows.
" From Palenque, the last town northward in the
province of Ciudad Real de Chiapa, taking a south
westerly direction, and ascending a ridge of high land
that divides the kingdom of Guatimala from Yucatan
or Campeche, at the distance of two leagues is the
little river Micol, whose waters flowiiig in a westerly
direction, unite with the great river Tulija, which
bends its course towards the province of Tabasco.
Having passed the Micol, the ascent begins ; and at
half a league from thence, the traveller crosses a little
stream called Otolum, discharging its waters into the
before-mentioned current. From this point, heaps of
ruins are discovered, which render the road very diffi
cult for another half league, when you gain the height
on which the Stone Houses are situated, being fourteen
in number, some more dilapidated than others, but
still having many of their apartments perfectly dis
cernible. " A rectangular area, three hundred yards in
breadth by four hundred and fifty in length, presents
a plain at the base of the highest mountain forming
the ridge ; and in the centre is situated the largest
of these structures which has as yet been discovered.
It stands on a mound twenty yards high, and is sur.
rounded by the other edifices, namely, five to the
northward, four to the southward, one to the south.

* " Description of the Ruins of an Ancient City, discovered near
talenque, in the Kingdom of Guatemala," tec. 4to. London, 1822.
1.2

160 MEXICO.
west, and three to the eastward. In all directions,
the fragments of other fallen buildings are to be seen
extending along the mountain, that stretches east and
west, about three or four leagues either way ; so that
the whole range of this ruined town may be computed
to extend between seven and eight leagues. But its
breadth is by no means equal to its length, being little
more than half a league wide at the point where the
rains terminate, which is towards the river Micol, that
winds round the base of the mountain, whence descend
small streams that wash the foundation of the ruins
on their banks ; so that, were it not for the thick um
brageous foliage of the trees, they would present to
the view so many beautiful serpentine rivulets."
The rivers abound with turtle and the smaller shell
fish, and running to the east, north, and west, afford
the utmost facility to inland traffic. An abundance
of wild fruit-trees, the sapote, the plantain, the agua-
cate, the camote, and the cassava, indicate what the
soil would yield under proper cultivation. Under the
largest building there runs a " subterranean aqueduct,
built of stone, of great solidity." The description
given of the Casas de piedras is vague and confused,
and has the further disadvantage of appearing in a
veiy indifferent translation ; but, in the absence of a
more accurate account, it may not be unacceptable to
the reader.
" The interior of the large building is in a style of
architecture strongly resembling the Gothic ; and,
from its rude and massive construction, promises great
durability. The entrance is on the eastern side, by a
portico or corridor thirty -six yards (varas) in length
and three in breadth, supported by plain rectangular
pillars, without either bases or pedestals, upon which
there are square smooth stones of more than a foot in

MEXICO. 161
thickness, forming an architrave ; while on the ex
terior superficies are shields of a species of stucco ; and
over these stones, there is another plain rectangular
block, five feet long and six broad, extending over two
of the pillars. Medallions or compartments in stucco,
containing different devices of the same material,
appear as decorations to the chambers ; and it is pre
sumable from the vestiges of the heads which can still
be traced, that they were the busts of a series of kings
or lords to whom the natives were subject. Between
the medallions there is a range of windows Jike niches,
passing from one end of the wall to the other : some
of them are square, some in the form of a Greek cross,
being about two feet high and eight inches deep.
Beyond the corridor there is a square court, entered
by a flight of seven steps. The north side is entirely
in ruins, but sufficient traces remain to shew that it
once had a chamber and corridor similar to those on
the eastern side, and which continued entirely along
the several angles. The south side has four small
chambers, with no other ornament than one or two
little windows like those already described. The
western side is correspondent to its opposite in all
respects but in the variety of expression of the figures
in stucco : these are much more rude and ridiculous
than the others, and can be attributed only to. the
most uncultivated Indian capacity. The device is a
sort of grotesque mask with a crown and long beard
like that of a goat, under which are two Greek crosses,
one within the other.
" Proceeding in the same direction, there is another
court, similar in length to the last, but not so broad,
.having a passage round it that communicated with
the opposite side : in this passage there are two cham
bers like those above mentioned, and an interior gal.

162 MEXICO.
lery, looking on one side upon the court-yard, and
commanding on the other a view of the open country.
In this part of the edifice, some pillars yet remain, on
which are relievos apparently representing the sacri
fice of some wretched Indian, the destined victim of a
sanguinary religion.
" Returning by the south side, the tower presents
itself to notice : its height is sixteen yards ; and to
the four existing stories of the building * was perhaps
added a fifth wilh a cupola. These stories diminish
in size, and are without ornament. The tower has a
well-imitated artificial entrance  Behind the four
chambers already mentioned, there are two others of
larger dimensions, very well ornamented in the rude
Indian style, and which appear to have been used as
oratories. Beyond these oratories, and extending from
north to southj are two apartments, each twenty-
seven yards long by little more than three broad ;
they contain nothing worthy of notice, excepting a
stone of an elliptical form, embedded in the wall,
about a yard above the pavement, the height of
which is one yard and a quarter, and the breadth one
yard. Below this stone, is a plain, rectangular block,
more than two yards long by one yard four inches
broad, and seven inches thick, placed upon four feet
in form of a table, with a figure in bas-relief, in the
attitude of supporting it. Characters or symbols
adom the edges of the table. At the extremity of
this apartment, and on a level with the pavement,
there is an aperture like a hatchway, two yards long
and more than one broad, leading to a subterranean
passage by a flight of steps, which, at a regular
distance, forms flats or landings, each having its
* There are only three floors in the subjoined etching.

MEXICO. 163
respective doorway ornamented in front. Other
openings lead to this subterranean avenue. On reach
ing the second door, artificial light became necessary
to the descent into this gloomy abode, which was by
a very gentle declivity. It has a turning at right
angles ; and at the end of the side-passage, there is
another, door, communicating with a chamber sixty-
four yards long, and almost as large as those before
described. Beyond this room there is still another,
similar in every respect, and having light admitted
into it by some windows commanding a corridor *
fronting the south, and leading to the exterior of the
edifice. Neither bas-reliefs nor any other embellish
ments were found in these places, nor did they present
to notice any object, except some plain stones, two
yards and a half long by one yard and a quarter broad,
arranged horizontally upon . four square stands of
masonry, i rising about half a yard above the ground.
These I consider to have been receptacles for sleeping.
Here all the doors terminated.
" On an eminence to the south is another edifice,
of about forty yards in height, forming a parallelo
gram, and resembling the first in the style of its
architecture. It has square pillars, an exterior gal
lery, and a saloon twenty yards long by three and a
half broad, embellished with stucco medio-reliefs,
representing female figures with children in their
arms, all of the natural size: these figures are without
heads. In the inner wall of the gallery, on each sido
ofthe door leading into the saloon, are three stones,
three yards in height and upwards of one in breadth,

* How this consists with its subterraneous position, we cannot
explain: there is probably some error.

164 MEXICO.
covered with hieroglyphics in bas-relief. The whole
of this gallery and saloon are paved.
" Leaving this structure, and passing by the ruins
of many others, which were probably accessory to the
principal edifice, the declivity conducts to an open
space, whereby the approach to another house in a
southerly direction is rendered practicable  East
ward of this structure are three small eminences form
ing a triangle, upon each of -which is a square build
ing, eighteen yards, long by eleven broad, of the same
architecture as the former, but having, along thin
roofings, several . superstructures about three yards
high, resembling turrets, covered with ornaments and
devices in stucco. In the interior, of the first of these
three mansions, at the end of a gallery almost en
tirely, dilapidated, is a saloon having a small chamber
at each extremity. In the centre of the saloon is an
oratory, rather more than three yards square, pre
senting on each side of the entrance a perpendicular
stone, whereon is portrayed the image of a man in
bas-relief. The outward decoration is confined to a
sort of moulding, finished with small stucco bricks,
on which are bas-reliefs. The pavement of the oratory
is quite smooth, and eight inches thick. On perfo
rating it in order to make an excavation, I found,
about half a yard deep, a small round earthen vessel,
about a foot in diameter, fitted horizontally with a
mixture of lime to another of the same quality and
dimensions. The digging being continued, a quarter
of a yard beneath we discovered a circular stone of
rather larger diameter than the first articles ; and on
removing this, a cylindrical cavity presented itself,
about a foot wide and the third of a foot deep, con
taining a flint lance (la,nce-head ?), two small conical

MEXICO. 165
pyramids with the figure of a heart in dark crystallised
stone, (known by the name of challa,) and two small
earthen jars with covers, containing small stones and
a ball of vermilion."
The two other edifices are of similar architecture,
divided internally in the same manner ; and here also,
the Don states, were found, by excavating under what
he calls the oratories, a flint lance or lance-head, two
conical pyramids with the representation of a heart,
and two earthen jars. On digging in other parts,
they found small pieces of challa " in the shape of
lancets or razor-blades," and a number of small bones
and teeth, which, together with specimens of the
masonry, and representations of the principal bas-
reliefs, were forwarded by Don Antonio to the com
mandant-general, in order to be transmitted to
Europe. Among the seventeen plates which accompany the
English translation, there is but one that exhibits any
of the edifices. In this is represented a square build
ing with two receding stories, which has apparently
been carried higher. This we presume to be the
tower referred to. There are square windows within
arched niches, rudely cut ; and between each story,
a sort of frieze or ledge runs round the building.
Branches of trees appear to have forced their way
through the walls. The other plates contain repre
sentations of the bas-reliefs. These consist chiefly of
figures in varied dresses and attitudes, and with dif
ferent accompaniments, but all more or less decorously
clothed, with caps or helmets adorned with flowers,
pearls, and sundry nondescript ornaments. Necklaces
and strings of pearls are a conspicuous decoration of
most of the figures. But the most striking peculiarity
in these representations is, the physiognomy of the

166 MEXICO.
countenances, which is of one strongly marked cha
racter, though the individuals differ. A prodigious
development of feature, especially of that which would
he called the nose, but which in these personages
comes nearer to a beak, is common to all of them ; in
almost all, the chin recedes not less remarkably than
the proboscis protrudes ; while some of the visages
have the additional recommendation of being fearfully
under-hung. This is especially the case with an old
priest in a cap and apron, who holds an infant in
his arms, doubtless with no very good purpose. In
one of the plates, a figure whom we take to be a
deity, is seated on a curious sort of throne, with one
leg brought up into the lap, and the other depending,
very much after the fashion of some of the Hindoo
celestials, who prefer very odd and uncomfortable
postures. This personage is very significantly point.
ing upwards with the fore-finger of the left hand,
while the middle finger of the right is brought to rest
emphatically upon the thumb, like a person talking
with his fingers. The throne is ornamented with an
enormous head and claw of an animal on each side of
it ; and perched on these heads are two undefined
imp-like forms, with something resembling a flame
proceeding from their forehead. In the next plate, a
medallion of inferior execution represents a personage
adorned with ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets, but
no clothing except round the waist, seated a, la Turque
on a two-headed monster, and receiving a present
from a full-dressed figure in a kneeling attitude. A
smaller medallion, in the rudest style, represents a tree
with a serpent twining round the trunk, and a bird
perched on a branch hard by ; and another presents a
naked youth kneeling, and looking into the open jaws
of a monstrous head, while another pair of tusks are

MKXICO. 167
protruding at his back. It is observable, that none
of the figures have a martial character, nor have they
any weapon at all resembling a sword. But what the
strange instruments are which they hold, or what they
are engaged in, and what is the import of the strange
hieroglyphics flourished round the largest drawing,
we are unable to tell.* All .the figures are beardless.
The protruding under-lip is so much out of nature,
that it suggests the idea of an artificial extension ;
and one might imagine that these personages set the
fashion of wearing the botoque. One of the figures
has, suspended from the neck, a very pretty orna
ment, which seems meant for an iinage of the sun.
Other drawings are referred to in the Report,
though they did not find their way with the MS.

* Doctor Paul Felix Cabrera, however, with an ingenuity and pe
netration truly marvellous, finds out the whole history of America
in these rude representations, and tells us who the personages are,
as readily as if they had all been his patients. The principal figure,
it seems, is no othei- than Votan, great-grandson of Noah, who was
the first man sent by God to America " to divide and portion out
these Indian lands." He was not only a great prince, but an his
torical writer ; and an account of his birth, parentage, and adven
tures, drawn up by himself, fell into the hands of the bishop of
Chiapa, Don Francesco Nunez de la Vega, author of the *' Dio
cesan Constitutions," printed at Rome in 1702, who was led to
withhold it from the public only by his religious scruples* «r on
account of the mischievous use the Indians made of their histories
in their superstition of nagttaliem" or demonology. It is much to
be regretted, as the Doctor very sapiently observes, "that the
place is unknown where these precidus documents of history were
deposited." But a still more lamentable loss to the world has been
sustained in the destruction, by the hands of the same orthodox
but over-zealous prelate, of certain large earthen vases containing
figures in stone of the ancient Indian Pagans, which the unerring
testimony of tradition ascribed to the same worthy American
patriarch, and which consequently must have been the most
ancient pottery now to be met wittu

168 MEXICO.
to the publisher, representing serpents, lizards, sta
tues of men with palms in their hands, others beat
ing drums and dancing, &c. &c.
According to the testimony of a monk of Merida,
who gave the account to Captain Del Rio, about
twenty leagues south of that city are found the
remains of similar edifices, the largest of which is in
good preservation. Eight leagues to the northward
of Merida are ruined walls of other stone-houses,
which increase in number in an easterly direction.
At Mani on the Rio de los Lagartos, is '.' a very
ancient palace," resembling that at Palenque, which
was for some time inhabited by the Franciscans while
their convent was building : in the centre of the prin
cipal area stands a conical pillar or pyramid of stones.
On the road from Merida to Bacalar occur many
other buildings. These are evidently the pyramidal
edifices which struck the Spanish conquerors with so
much surprise on their first landing in the peninsula
of Yucatan, and which they compared to Moorish
mosques. There can he no doubt of their sepulchral
character, although they may have answered, like
other ancient monuments, the double purpose of
temples and tombs. The province of Chiapa would
thus seem to have received its aboriginal population
from the same source a3 the peninsula of Yucatan ;
and if the language spoken by the Indians should
prove to be the Maya, (a point which we must look to
some future traveller to ascertain,) there will be no
room for hesitation in referring these monuments of
ancient civilisation to a race distinct from the Aztec,
and bearing more affinity to the Zapotec Indians
of Oaxaca. The Cyclopean masonry of the Cholulan
builders, differs scarcely less specifically from the

MEXICO. 169
architecture of Mitla and Palenque, than the temples
of Nubia from the pyramids of Gheeza.

CONCLUSION.
We must now take leave of this interesting portion
of the New Continent, — the most interesting per
haps, in respect of its physical features, its natural
curiosities, and the monuments of its ancient civilisa
tion. To Mexico and Peru alone, of all the coun
tries in the western hemisphere, belongs a traditional
history stretching back into an undefined antiquity,
and connecting the present generation with an an
cestry greater than themselves. Rude and insignifi
cant as are the Mexican pyramids and sepulchres in
comparison of the stupendous works of Theban and
Persepolitan architects, and comparatively modern as
is their supposed date, they have an interest peculiar
to themselves, arising from their being the only
monuments of man in these extra-mundane regions
(as the whole continent might be termed in relation
to the world of history), and from their obvious
affinity to those which superstition and despotic
power have erected in the Old World.* What they
want as works of art, they acquire as moral pheno
mena. Among the nations who have disappeared in
the Old World, it is the conjecture of Humboldt, that

* " A small number of nations, far distant from each other, the
Etruscans, the Egyptians, the Thihetians, and the Aztecs, exhibit
striking analogies in their buildings, their religious institutions,
their division of time, and their mystic notions, —analogies which
are as difficult to explain as the relations that exist between
the Sanscrit, the Persian, the Greek, and the languages of German
origin." — Humboldt's Researches, vol. i. p. 11.

170 MEXICO.
the remains of some may yet be preserved in the
scanty tribes who are dispersed through the vast soli.
tudes of America. That hitherto it has been found
impossible to ascertain the period when the communi
cation between the two continents was first esta
blished, can waken no surprise, when it is considered
how totally ignorant we are of the early history
of those Asiatic nations to whom the Toltecs, the
Aztecs, the Muyscas, and the Peruvians present the
nearest analogies. " No historical fact, no tradition,"
says the learned Traveller, " connects the nations of
South America with those that inhabit the countries
north ofthe Isthmus of Panama." And yet, their phy
siological affinity is not more decisively marked than
the analogies found in their institutions and history.
" Men with beards, and of lighter complexions than
the natives of Anahuac, Cundinamarca, and the ele
vated plain of Cuzco, make their appearance without
any indication of the place of their birth ; and, bearing
the titles of high-priests, of legislators, of the friends
of peace and the arts which flourish under its auspices,
operate a sudden change in the policy of nations, who
hail their arrival with veneration. Quetzalcoatl,
Bochica, and Manco Capac, are the sacred names
of these mysterious beings. Quetzalcoatl, clothed in
a black, sacerdotal robe, comes from Panuco on the
shores of the Gulf of Mexico. Bochica, the Buddh of
the Muyscas, presents himself on the high plains
of Bogota, where he arrives from the savannas which
stretch along the eastern foot of the Cordilleras.
Some learned men have pretended to discover that
these strangers were shipwrecked Europeans, or the
descendants of those Scandinavians who, in the
eleventh century, visited Greenland, Newfoundland^

MEXICO. 171
and perhaps Nova Scotia ; * but a slight reflection on
the period of the Toltec migrations, on the monastic
institutions, the symbols of worship, the calendar,
and the form of the monuments of Cholula, of Soga-
mozo, and of Cuzco, leads us to conclude, that it
was not in the north of Europe that Quetzalcoatl,
Bochica, and Manco Capac framed their code of laws.
Every consideration leads us rather towards Eastern
Asia, — to those nations who have been in contact
with the inhabitants of Thibet, to the Shamanist Tar
tars, and the bearded Ainos of the isles of Jesso and
Sachalin."t The annals of the Mexican empire appear to go
back as far as the sixth century of the Christian era,
—the epoch of the emigration of the Toltecs from the
banks of the Rio Gila. Even this era is antecedent to
the rise of Mohammedism, and the earliest authentic
records of Arabian history. But when we consider
the strong instinctive disposition of semi-civilised na
tions to perpetuate, by mechanical imitation, the same
forms, and to adhere in all their works to a primitive-
type or model, — a disposition remarkably character
istic of the tribes of Eastern Asia, — these monuments
ofthe ancient Mexicans would seem to carry us back
to a period far more remote than their actual construc-
* The learned Author himself, however, remarks in another
place: *' They who have studied the history ofthe Scandinavian
nations in the h_roic times, must be struck at finding in Mexico a
name {Votan, or Vodan) which recala that of Wodan, or Odin."
According to the learned researches of Sir William Jones, Odin and
Boudha, or Buddh, are probably one and the same person ; and
it is curious to observe, remarks M. Humboldt, " that the names
of Boud-var, Wodan's-dag (Wednesday), and Votan, denote in India,
in Scandinavia, and in Mexico (Chiapa), a day of a small period."
These coincidences, however, are fallacious data for reasoning.—
See Researches, vol. i. pp. 173, 319.
t Researches, vol. i. pp. 29, 30.

172 MEXICO.
tion. In them we doubtless have the facsimiles of the
works of their Asiatic ancestry ; and viewed in this
light, they serve as legendary records, embodied tradi
tions of a primeval race. Their specific date becomes
but a starting-post from which imagination takes her
flight into the fabulous regions of history.
Various interesting topics of inquiry suggest them.
selves relative to the remarkable concentration of
population, as well as of civilisation, in the central
regions of America ; — the successive emigrations
which must have taken place at remote intervals ; —
the distinctive features of the hunter, pastoral, and
agricultural tribes of America; — ^and the probable
course of the great stream of population southward,
till we reach the shores of the mighty Amazons,
which seems the limit of aboriginal civilisation. These
subjects, however, lie far out of our province, and we
refer to them merely with a view to furnish hints to
future travellers.
The mineral treasures of Mexico form, at the pre
sent moment, its strongest attraction; and owing to
the influx of foreign capital which they are occasion.
ing, the Mexican mines may prove indirectly," what.
mines have rarely proved, the sources of national
prosperity. We have endeavoured to convey the
amplest information on this point that we at present
possess, and shall have occasion to recur to the subject
before we close the volume. To the eye of the
philanthropist, however, or of the enlightened poli
tician, neither the mines, nor the monuments, nor
any of the physical phenomena of Mexico, constitute
the chief interest of this rising country. The sudden
apparition of the volcano of Jorullo itself, is not a
more striking event in the natural history of the
globe, than is the formation of a connected chain

MEXICO. 173
of federal republics in the two Americas, in it. moral
history. Unhappily signalised as their birth has been
by devastation and terror, now that the convulsion
has subsided, they will be found, we trust, to have
supplied, as it were, the soil in which social institu
tions, the public virtues, and domestic charities shall
strike deep and flourish. An immense responsibility
has devolved on the present federal government, to
whom it has been confided to conduct the grand social
experiment to its issue. May the result justify the
universal admiration which is entertained for the
character of the truly patriotic president, — the Mexi
can Washington, and that of his brave and generous
compeer ! And may the words not be forgotten with
which the Traveller to whom both Mexico and
Europe are so greatly indebted, concludes his Political
Essay, — " That the prosperity of the whites is inti
mately connected with that of the copper-coloured
race ; and that there can be no durable prosperity for
the two Americas, till this unfortunate race, humi
liated, but not degraded by long oppression, shall par
ticipate in all the advantages resulting from the
progress of civilisation and the improvement of social
order."

END OF MEXICO.

GUATIMALA.

GUATIMALA.*

[A Federal Republic, extending from about long. 81° 45' W. to 05°
W., and from lat. 8° to 17° N. ; bounded, on the N.W. by
Mexico; on the N. and E. by the Atlantic, on the S.E. by
Colombia ; and on the S. and S.W. by the Pacific Ocean.]
1 HE kingdom of Guatimala " received its name from
the word Quauhtemali, which, in the Mexican lan
guage, means a decayed log of wood, because the
Mexican Indians who accompanied Alvarado, found,
near the palace of the kings of Kachiquel, an old
worm-eaten tree, and gave this name to the capital."
Such is the statement adopted by Don Domingo
Juarros, in his History of the Kingdom of Guatimala,
as the true origin of the name. Some writers, how
ever, he tells us, have derived it from Uhatezmalha,
which signifies, in the Tzendale dialect, a mountain
that throws out water, " alluding, doubtless, to the
mountain on the skirts of which the city of Guatimala
was built." With due submission to the historian,
we incline to the latter etymology ; first, because it
appears extremely unlikely that the name of the king
dom should not be more ancient than the Spanish
conquest ; and secondly, because Alvarado would not
have left it to Mexican Indians to name the city.
The Aztec word Quauhtli signifies eagle, in which
sense it occurs in composition in the words Quauhtin-
chan, house of the eagle, (a Mexican city,) and
* More properly Guatemala ; but we have adhered to the
usual orthography.

178 GUATIMALA.
Quauhtemotzin, the name of the last sultan of
Tenochtitlan. We cannot affirm that Quauhtemali
may not signify a log of wood, but, if it be really
derived from an Aztec word, we should deem an
etymology referring to the eagle far more plausible.
The mountain affords, in all probability, the true
derivation. Another etymology, however, is given by
one historian, Francisco de Fuentes y Gusman, who
derives the name from Coctecmalan, signifying " milk-
wood," — a peculiar tree found only in the neighbour
hood of the supposed site of the original capital, where
now stands the village of Tzacualpa.. Lastly, Juarros
suggests, that the word may possibly be merely a
corruption of the name of Juitemal, the first king of
Guatimala, as Quiche was named from Nimaquiche,
and Nicaragua from the cacique of the same name.
It is not quite clear, however, that the name ofthe
territory has not, in some of these instances, led to the
invention of a name for its sovereign ; and the
existence of King Juitemal is not sufliciently esta
blished to afford a solid basis for this ingenious con
jecture. At the time of the conquest (A.D. 1 524) this region
is stated to have been well peopled by more than thirty
distinct tribes, each governed by its own chief, and
having its peculiar dialect. These tribes were con.
tinually at war with, each other, and the ancient
distinctions are still perpetuated in the variety of
languages and dissimilar customs which are found in
the different provinces. The Mexican or Aztec lan
guage is spoken by the Pipil Indians, who are settled
along the coasts of the Pacific, and by some other
tribes ; besides this, no fewer than twenty-four
dialects, peculiar to Guatimala, are still said to be
spoken, the names of which are, the Quiche, the

GUATIMALA. 179
Kachiquel, the Zutugil, the Mam, the Pocomam, the
Pupuluca, the Sinca, the Chorti, the Alaguilac, the
Caichi, the Pochonchi, the Ixil, the Zotzil, the
Tzendal, the Chapaneca, the Zoque, the Coxoh, the
Chariabal, the Choi, the Uzpanteca, the Lenca, the
Aguacateca, the Quecchi, and the Nahuate or Pipil.
The Maya language is also spoken in Chiapa. " It
is true," says Don Domingo Juarros, " there is
a strong resemblance between some of the idioms ;
and the Indians of one tribe can understand those
of another from analogy : these instances, however,
are not very frequent, nor can the intercourse be
maintained with sufficient clearness and precision
to enable them to traffic with each other readily
and satisfactorily." The learned Don labours with
patriotic solicitude to shew, that his country was
never subj_ct to the Mexican sovereigns. The proofs
he adduces are, first, that the Mexicans always com
pelled the inhabitants Of the counti ies they conquered
to adopt their language, but the Azte_ is riot the pre
vailing language in Guatimala ; secondly, that at- the
time of the conquest, the Spaniards found no open
road from Mexico to Chiapa, but only narrow-
paths, in many places overgrown by vegetation. The
latter is a very weak and insufficient argument.
That there was an intercourse between the two coun
tries is indubitable, and there must therefore have
been what the natives would call a road. According
to the tradition recited by the learned Historian him
self, the Tulteca or Toltec Indians, the most powerful
and civilised of all the nations Of Guatimala, came
originally from the neighbourhood of Tula, in the
kingdom of Mexico. This emigration took place by
direction of an oracle, in consequence of the great
increase of the population, in the reign of Nimaquich.,
M 2

180 GUATIMALA.
the fifth king of the Tultecas. " In performing this
journey, they expended many years, suffered extra
ordinary hardships, and wandered over an immense
tract of country, until they discovered a large lake
(the lake of Atitan), and resolved to fix their habita
tions in a convenient place at a short distance from it,
which they called Quiche, in commemoration of their
king Nimaquiche (Quich. the Great), who died
during their peregrination." The time of this emi
gration, it is, of course, impossible to ascertain with
precision. Nimaquich_ was succeeded by his son
Acxopil, from whom Kicab Tanub, the contemporary
of Montezuma II., was the fourteenth in succession
who reigned in Utatlan, the capital of Quiche.
Allowing twenty years to a reign, this would carry
back the foundation of the Toltec empire of Quiche to
nearly the middle of the thirteenth century, about
thirty or forty years after the arrival of the Aztecs in
the valley of Mexico.* So far the accounts would
seem to agree. Autzol, or Ahuitzotl, the eighth
sultan of Tenochtitlan, is stated to have sent a special .
embassy to the kings of Quiche, Kachiquel, and
Zutugil, with the professed object of establishing
an alliance between the two kingdoms ; but those
chiefs, suspecting the sincerity of his proposals, dis
missed the Aztec ambassadors, whom they regarded
as no better than spies, with evasive answers and less
than usual courtesy. The King of Quiche alleged
that he could not understand their language : if :so,
two hundred and fifty years must have produced a
great change either in the dialect of Tenochtitlan or
in that of Utatlan, as they must originally have been
the same. The kings of both countries were of the
* See vol. i. p. 39.

GUATIMALA. 181
same race.- " It appears, too," says Juarros, " that
these princes acknowledged the relationship, and
maintained a communication with each other ; for it
is related in a manuscript of sixteen quarto pages,
which is preserved by the Indians of the village of
St. Andres Xecul, that when Montezuma II. was
made prisoner, (by Cortes), he sent a private ambas
sador to Kicab Tanub, King of Quiche, to inform
him that some white men had arrived in his states,
and made war upon him with such impetuosity, that
the whole strength of his people was unable to resist
them ; that he was himself a prisoner surrounded with
guards; and, hearing it was the intention of the
invaders to pass on to the kingdom of Quiche, and
subdue it, he resolved to send notice of the design,
in order that Kicab Tanub might be prepared to
oppose them. This,", adds our historian, " is a
strong proof of a good understanding having existed
between the two king's ; for if Montezuma, watched
as he was by his keepers, could contrive to despatch
this messenger secretly to Kicab, there is no doubt
that frequent intercourse took place between them in
the time of peace and tranquillity." But if so, there
must have been a road from one kingdom to the
other; and the argument that Guatimala could not
have been tributary to Mexico, because there was no
means of keeping up a communication prior to the
Spanish conquest, falls to the ground. Montezuma
was the immediate successor of Ahuitzotl, whose
ambassadors were sent home with so little ceremony,
but who is stated, nevertheless, to have found the
means of introducing into the country certain Mexi
cans in the character of traders, for the purpose of
forming a party that might be useful in furthering
his attempts at subjugating the kingdom. The good

182 GUATIMALA.
understanding between Ahuitzotl's successor and the
King of Quiche remains unaccounted for. Either
some amicable overtures must have subsequently been
made by the Mexican sovereign with better success,
or there must have taken place, transactions of a
military nature, not, perhaps, to the honour of the
Guatimalan monarchs. Nor is the argument less
inconclusive, which Don Domingo founds on the diver.
sity of dialects. The number of languages spoken in
Mexico exceeds twenty, and many of them differ
from each other far more remarkably than, as we
suspect, the Quiche, Kachiquel, Zutugil, and Pipil,
will be found to do from the Aztec. Nevertheless, as
there is no positive proof that the kingdom of Guati
mala was ever subject to the Mexicans, we are quite
willing to take for granted that its independence
remained inviolate up to the period of the Spanish
conquest. When the Toltecs arrived in Guatimala, they
found the country already inhabited by various tribes,
as, iu Mexico, they were preceded by the Chichimecs
and Ottomites. The remains of these aboriginal
tribes, who appear to have been driven southward,
are probably still in existence. The Toltec empire
founded by Acxopil, afterwards subdivided into the
lordships of Quiche, Kachiquel, and Zutugil, is said to
have comprised the provinces of Solola, Chimalte-
nango, Sacatepec, and part of Quezaltenango and
Totonicapan. At the time of the Spanish conquest,
a civil war was raging between the King of the Kachi-
quels and the Zutugil monarch, which induced the
former to call in the aid of those dangerous allies.
" The fame of Cortes's exploits," we are told,
" spread rapidly through the country, and soon
reached the court of the Kachiquel kings, who, of

, GUATIMALA. 183
their own free will, sent an embassy to him, offering
to acknowledge themselves vassals of the King of
Spain. The chief received the ambassadors with all
the kindness and affability so peculiar to him, treated
them with every mark of distinction, and gave
assurances that himself and all those under his com?
mand would govern them with mildness in peace, and
defend them against all enemies. Cortes sent Pedro
de Alvarado, one of his officers who had been most
active in the conquest of New Spain, to take pos.
session of Guatimala, and receive the subjection of
the native kings. He quitted the city of Mexico
on the 13th of November, 1523, accompanied by 300
Spaniards and a large body of auxiliaries, Mexicans,
Tlascaltecs, and Cholulans. After a short detention
in subduing the natives of Tehuantepec, who had
revolted, he advanced, completed- the conquest of
Soconusco and Tonala, and arrived in the territory of
the Quiches on the 24th of February, 1524."
Kicab Tanub was engaged in a sanguinary war
with the Zutugiles and the Mams, when the tidings
reached him, that the Spaniards had arrived at the
boundaries of Soconusco. On receiving this intelli
gence, he suspended further hostilities, and de.
spatched messengers to the different kings and chiefs,
inviting them to confederate for their common de
fence. The same spirit of rivalry and bitter ani
mosity, however, which led to the overthrow of the
Mexican empire by a handful of Europeans, prevailed,
on this occasion, over every patriotic feeling. The
Kachiquel' monarch openly declared himself a friend
to the Teules, or gods, as the Spaniards were called ;
and the king of the Zutugiles rejected the proposal
with haughty contempt. At this crisis, Kicab fell
sick and died. He was succeeded by his eldest

184 GUATIMALA.
son, Tecum Umam, who had but little leisure to
indulge in sorrow for his father's death, as every
hour brought him advice of the enemy's approach.
At length, information arrived, that the Spaniards
had laid siege to Xelahuh (or Quezaltenango), the
most important place in the kingdom, and which
was garrisoned at this time by 80,000 Indians.
Alarmed at their rapid progress, Tecum Umam quitted
his capital at the head of an army of 70,000 men,
and by the time he reached Quezaltenango, he
was joined by several petty chiefs, so that he was
able to marshal on the plain of Tzaccaha 232,000
warriors. Here he fortified his camp with a wall
of loose stones, strengthened by a deep fosse, which
was lined with rows of poisoned stakes. The
Spaniards, having traversed the province of Soco
nusco, entered the mountains, and captured the
stronghold of Xetulul, or Sapotitlan ; they then pur
sued their march till, on arriving at the banks of
the river Zamala, they found themselves vigorously
attacked by a large body of Indians. The Spanish
musketry soon threw the Quiches into confusion :
three times they rallied, and renewed the attack
with great fury, but at length, their leaders being
slain, they fled with precipitation. The invaders
now thought themselves secure from the assaults
of the barbarians, but, on their beginning to ascend
the steep ridge now called the Cerro de Santa Maria
de Jesus, they found the summit covered with the
enemy, who prepared to dispute the passage of the
defile. Between the rivers Zamala and Olintepec,
six actions took place, in all of which the Indians
were defeated with great slaughter. That which
was fought in the defile of the latter river, was
the most desperate : its waters were reddened with

GUATIMALA. 185
the carnage, and received from that circumstance
the name of" Xiquigel, or river of blood. This was
one of the severest conflicts in which the Spaniards
had yet been engaged. After this victory,, they
remained for three days without further molestation
from the natives, which afforded them time to recover
from their great fatigues. On the fourth day, they
advanced to Xelahuh, which they found abandoned ;
and some stragglers who were brought in, reported
that all the inhabitants had fled to the moun
tains. It was soon discovered, however, that all
the force of the surrounding country had been col
lected to make another attack on the Spaniards. The
army immediately quitted Xelahuh, and took up _
favourable position on the plain. The cavalry, con
sisting of 135 men, was divided into two troops :
Alvarado himself commanded the infantry. The
Indian army was formed into two very strong divi
sions, one of which was headed by the monarch
in person. " As soon as the contending parties
came within reach of each other, a furious combat
ensued. One of the Indian divisions, being attacked
by the cavalry, was forced to abandon its position,
and retire for support on the other, which was
resolutely engaged with the infantry. On the de
feat of this first division, the cavalry rejoined the
main body, where the general had, hy several small
detachments-, been able to resist the force of Tecum
Umaai. The king personally attacked Alvarado,.
and; wounded;. his horse so severely, that he was
forced to disnjosint and procure another. Tecum
Umam renewed his assault upon the general a
second and. even a third time, and, in the last en
counter,, .reeeived a wound from a lance by the hand
of AlvaradOj of which he died almost immediately.

186 GUATIMALA.
The fury of the Indians was increased to madness on
seeing their monarch fall : the discharge of pikes,
arrows, and stones that followed, was more violent
than any thing that had hitherto been witnessed. A
critical moment was seized for attacking in close
column, and that manoeuvre decided the fate of the
day. The Indians, unable to make head against this
solid body, yielded to despair, and broke away in the
most precipitate flight, leaving the Spaniards com
pletely masters of the field.
" Hopeless of being able longer to resist the con
querors by the force of their arms, they had recourse
to stratagem and treachery, which was determined
upon in a council of war held in Utatlan, by the King
Chignauivcelut, son and successor of Tecum Umam.
To put their design into practice, the king began by
sending a solemn embassy to Alvarado with a valuable
present of gold, to sue for peace and forgiveness for
the past, and to offer submission to the Spanish
monarch. The ambassadors entreated the general to
visit the capital, where he might conveniently refresh
himself after his late severe fatigues, and where the
king was anxious to receive and entertain him with
whatever his dominions could afford. Alvarado most
anxiously desired to establish peace, and this invita
tion being considered as a favourable opportunity, he
received the ambassadors with every mark of distinc
tion and kindness ; he promised to repair to Utatlan,
and dismissed them with presents of some trifles of
Spanish workmanship, that were held in the highest
estimation by the Indians. On the following day,
the army decamped for Utatlan, in the highest Spirits,
believing the demonstrations of the Quiches to be
sincere, and supposing that the war was terminated.
But, on entering the city, and observing the strength

GUATIMALA- 187
of the place, that it was well walled and surrounde4
by a deep ravine, having but two approaches to it;
the one by an ascent of twenty-five steps, and the
other by a causeway, both of which were extremely
narrow ; that the streets were but of trifling breadth,
and the houses very lofty ; perceiving also ttat there
were neither women nor children in the place, and
that the Indians appeared greatly agitated, the spldiers
began to suspect some deceit. Their apprehensions
were soon confirmed by the Indians of Quetzahenango,
who accompanied the army. These had discovered, that
the people of Utatlan intended that night to set the town
on fire in order to destroy the Spaniards; and that large
bodies of them were concealed ija the neighbouring
defiles, who were, as soon as they saw the flames, to
fall upon the Spaniards, as they endeavoured to escape
from the fire. On gaining this intelligence, the troops
observed the movements of the Utatlans very cau,
tiously. They examined the houses, and ascertained
that there was no preparation of victuals to .egale
them, as they had been promised ; but that there was
in every place a great quantity of light, dry fuel,
and other combustibles. Alvarado no longer doubted
the correctness of the information. He assembled a
council, represented to the ofiicers the perilous situa
tion in which they were involved, and the immediate
necessity of quitting the place. The troops were thei»
collected, and, without any appearance of alarm,
marched out in good order to the open plain ; pre.
tending to Chignauivcelut and his caciques, that they
quitted the city for the better accommodation of the
horses, which were accustomed to feed at liberty in
the fields. The king, with pretended courtesy, accom
panying the army to the plain, the general availed
himself of this opportunity to wake him a prisoner ;
PART IV. N

188 GUATIMALA.
and after a trial, in which proofs of his treachery were
adduced, he was sentenced to be hanged, and the
punishment immediately inflicted. Neither the death
of Tecum Umam and their principal leaders slain in
battle, nor the ignominious execution of Chignauiv
celut, was sufficient to intimidate the fierce spirit of
the Quiches ; on the contrary, it excited fresh ebul
litions of rage and animosity. They gave the signal
to the troops that lay in ambush, and a general attack
upon the Spaniards ensued. The army was assaulted
simultaneously on all sides by powerful squadrons of
the Indians. But Spanish bravery increased with
increasing dangers. The artillery was brought into
action, and made dreadful havoc in the enemy's ranks,
who however maintained the contest with desperate
valour for a short time ; but they were soon thrown
into confusion. The leaders were unable to rally
their troops against the destructive fire of the guns*
and they abandoned a field already covered with heaps
of slain. Some fled to their places of refuge, and
others threw away their arms in token of submission,
and surrendered themselves and their caciques to the •
generosity of their conquerors, who, by this victory,
remained undisputed masters. of the kingdom."
This victory was gained on the 14th of May, 1524.
A small chapel was hastily erected On the spot, and
on the following day, which was the Pentecost, mass
was celebrated; and " thus commenced the Catholic
worship in this region." Alvarado, we are told, un.
willing to deprive the royal race of Tanub of their
inheritance, raised to the throne Sequechul, the next
in succession to Chignauivcelut. He remained at
Utatlan for eight days, during which he sent out de.
tachments to explore and reduce the surrounding
country ; and in this interval, ambassadors arrived

GUATIMALA. 189
from Sinacam, King of the Kachiquels, tendering his
allegiance, with offers of troops and other necessaries.
Leaving Juan de Leon Cardona in command at Utat
lan, Alvarado set out for Guatimala,,escorted by 2,000
Kachiquels, who were employed to clear the road.
The Spaniards were not without their misgivings
respecting the intentions of these new allies, but they
proved to be unfounded. Sinacam advanced to meet,
them in his Jitter, richly adorned with plumes of
quetzal's feathers and ornaments of gold ; and the two
chiefs proceeded at the head of their respective suites, .
by the route of Iztapa, to the capital, situated, accord
ing to Fuentes, at the place now called San Miguel
Tzacualpa, which signifies " old town." Here the
Spaniards were most hospitably entertained by the Gua-
timalan monarch.- After remaining here for some time,
Alvarado again set out towards the village of Atitlany
to attack the Zutugiles. Taking- their route by the
villages on the coast, they overcame whatever force
attempted to dispute their passage, until they arrived,
on the 24th of July, at a place called Atmulunca,or
Almolonga, " the water that springs up." " This
situation," says Remesal, " pleased the Spaniards so
much by its fine climate, the beauty of the meadows,
delightfully watered by running streams, and particu
larly from lying between two lofty mountains, from
one of which descended rills of water in every direction^
while from the summit of the other issued volumes of
smoke and fire ; that they determined to establish them.
selves here, and, aided by the Mexicans and Tlascal-
tecs, they erected the requisite quarters. On the 25th
of July, the festival of St. James, the patron of Spain,
the troops were mustered under arms, and marched to
attend divine service with martial music, and repeated

190 GUATIMALA.
discharges of fire-arms. In this array, they proceeded
to the humble church which had been constructed,
where Juan Godines, chaplain to the army, said mass.
This service finished, the whole body invoked the
protection of the apostle, gave his name to the town
they had founded, and dedicated to him the church
that was to be built. The foundation of the new
town was solemnized by the army with feasts and
military rejoicings, that continued for three days."
On the 29th of July, the alcaldes and regidors of the
new city took their seats in council. On the 12th of
August, another council was held, at which the public
officers, with other persons to the number of ninety-
seven, were registered as citizens. " With these
formalities," says Juarros, " the foundation of the
city of San Jago de los Caballeros de Guatimala was
completed."* Alvarado, either in person or by his lieutenants,
governed the newly acquired territories in Guatimala
from the year 1524, until 1541, the year of his death;
for the first four years hy commission from Cortes,
and afterwards as governor and captain-general of
the kingdom of Guatimala by commission from the
Emperor Charles the Fifth, dated Dec. 18, 1527. On
the death of Alvarado, a royal audiencia was esta-
Wished, by a decree dated Nov. 20, 1542, for the pro-
vinces of Guatimala and Nicaragua, of which Alonzd
de Maldonado was appointed president. It was
ordered to hold its sittings in the town of Valladolid
de Comayagua ; but this being deemed inconvenient,
the royal permission was obtained for its removal to
the city of Gracias a Dios, where the first session was
* Juarros, pp. 12o, 6: 394—41)3.

GUATIMALA. 391
held in May 1544. In 1555, the tribunal was trans
ferred to the city of Guatimala. It was then for a
short time removed to Panama, but, in 1569, the
previous order was rescinded, and the audiencia was
once more established at Guatimala. Philip II. en
larged its powers, and constituted it a pretorial court
independent of the viceroy of Mexico. The jurisdic
tion of the royal chancery of Guatimala extended along
the shores of the Atlantic, from the coast of Balize in
the Bay of Honduras, to the Escudo de Veraguas, a
small desert island off the coast of Veraguas, in lat.
9° 21' N.,, and long. 82° 46' W. ; and, on the Pacific
coast, from the bar of the river Parredon in the pro
vince of Soconusco, to the mouth of the river Boruca
in that of Costa Rica. The river Chilillo was its
boundary towards Oaxaca, and it extended to the dis
trict of Chiriqui towards the south-east, where the
jurisdiction of Santa Fe de Bogota terminated. The
territory comprised within these limits, is about 900
miles in length ; • its breadth from sea to sea varies
from 180 to upwards of 500 miles. The extent of
surface is computed to be 200,500 square miles. The
¦population, in 1778, according to a census taken by
royal orders, amounted to 832,055 souls. In 1791,
a considerable increase had taken place in some dis
tricts, and in 1800, it is supposed by Humboldt to
have risen to 1,200,000 souls ; which, taking the ex
tent of surface at 26,000 square leagues, gives 46 in
habitants to the square league.-)- A still more recent

* The " travelling distance" from the river Chilillo to Chiriqui,
is estimated by Juarros at more than 700 Spanish leagues, or up
wards of 3,000 English miles.
t Humboldt, Pol. Essay, vol. iv. p. 322.

192 GUATIMALA.
account brings up the population to 1,300,000 ;* but
in this, as well as in the preceding calculations, Chi
apa is included, the population of which is stated at
128,000. The provincial divisions of Guatimala have varied
with the changing circumstances of the country : the
jmmber of provinces has at one time been increased,
at another time reduced, as new alcaldias mayor have
been created, or several corregimientos have been
united. At one period, there were as many as thirty-
two provinces, of which four were distinguished as
governments, viz. Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica,
and Soconusco ; nine were alcaldias mayor, viz. San
Salvador, Ciudad Real, Tegucigalpa, Zonzonate, Vera-
paz, Suchiltepec, Nicoya, Amatique, and the real
of San Andres de Zaragoza ; and eighteen were corre
gimientos, the corregidors of which were nominated
by the audiencia. Such was the distribution of the
kingdom in the seventeenth century ; but, about the
year 1660, the population of the province of Costa
Rica being greatly diminished, four of the corregi.
mientos were extinguished, and the divisions were
annexed to that government : at the same time, four
other corregimientos were shared between the govern.
ments of Comayagua and Nicaragua. In the begin
ning of the eighteenth century, the alcaldias mayor of
Amatique and San Andres were suppressed, and
several new ones were created. By these and other
changes, the thirty-two provinces were reduced to
fifteen, one of which is styled a government, four are
intendancies, eight are alcaldias mayor, and two are
corregidorships. Five of the provinces are situated
* Poinsett's Notes, p. 239.

GUATIMALA. 193
on the -shores of the Pacific; five on the Atlantic
coast ; and five are inland. They are as follow :
, MARITIME PROVINCES ON THE COAST OF THE
PACIFIC.
I. Intendancy of Ciudad Real, or Chiapa.
including (1) District of Ciudad Real.
(2)  ________ Tuxtla.
(3)  Soconusco.
- 2. Alcaldia-mayor of Suchiltepec.
3. «¦-¦¦- ¦ ¦  ¦ — Escuintla.
4. ¦ Zonzonate.
5. Intendancy of San Salvador.
including (1) District of Santa Ana.
(2)  San Salvador.
(3),  San Vicente.
(4)  San Miguel.
MARITIME PROVINCES ON THE ATLANTIC C6AST.
6. Alcaldia-mayor of Vera Paz.
. -7» Corregimiento of Chiquimula.
8. Intendancy of Comayagua, or Honduras.
including (1) District of Comayagua.
(2)  Tegucigalpa.
, 9. Intendancy of Nicaragua, or Leon.
including (1) District of Leon.
(2)-

(3) J.  Realejo.
(4) ..-., -  Subtiava.
(5) ¦ Nicoya.
10. Government of Costa Rica.
INTERIOR PROVINCES.
• 11. Alcaldia-mayor of Totonicapan and Gueguctenango.
12. Corregimiento of Quezaltenango.
13. Alcaldia-mayor of Solola and Atitan.
14.  Chimaltenango.
15. —  Sacatepec.
Between the intendancies of Nicaragua and Comay-.
agua, lie two provinces peopled by uncivilised Indians
of various nations, who are called indiscriminately,

194 GUATIMALA.
Xicacs, Moscos, and Sambos. These provinces, which
extend along the Atlantic coast from the river Aguan
to the San Juan, are called by Juarros, the Provinces
of Taguigalpa and Tofogalpa. They form part of the
tract better known under the name of the Mosquito
Shore. The Mosquito Indians, as they are generally
called, have always borne an inveterate dislike to the
Spaniards. The Duke of Albemarle, when governor
of Jamaica, fostered this dislike, and he invested one
of the Indians with the office of chief of the Mosqui
toes, under the protection of England. But, by a
convention between Great Britain and Spain, signed
in London on the 14th of July, 1786, it was agreed
on the part of his Britannic Majesty, that his subjects
and other colonists who had hitherto enjoyed the pro
tection of England, should evacuate the country of
the Mosquitos, as well as the continent in general,
and the islands adjacent, without exception ; his
Catholic Majesty pledging himself not to exercise any
act of severity against the Mosquitos, on account of
the connexions which may have subsisted between the
said Indians and the English. The town and territory
of Poyais, where, a few years ago, some adventurers
from this country attempted to establish an inde
pendent colony, are situated on the river Tinto,
or Black river, which discharges itself into the
Atlantic near Cape Camaron : they are included
in Taguzgalpa, which, though nominally a part of
Guatimala, has never actually been appropriated. So
far his highness Gregor Macgregor, the- self-styled
cazique of Poyais, had some plea in justification of his
trespassing on these shores. Poyais town is a paltry
village of huts and log-houses, on the west side of
Black river, about sixty miles inland. The river
Aguan, which divides Taguzgalpa from Honduras,

GUATIMALA. 195
discharges itself about sixty miles to the westward
of Cape Camaian : eastward, the province extends to
Cape Gracias a Dios. Beyond that point, the tract of
coast extending southward to tbe river Chagres, and
including the province of Tologalpa, now belongs
to the republic of Colombia ; and a decree of that
government, dated Santa Fe de Bogota, July 5, 1824,
declares all persons attempting to* colonise that part
of the coast liable to penal severities.*
* The decree is as follows: " Francisco de Paula Santander,
General of Division of the Armies of Colombia. Vice-President
of the Republic, &c. — Inasmuch as it has come to the knowledge
of the Government of the Republic of Colombia, that various
individuals, resident in foreign countries, have projected the foun
dation of establishments in a certain territory called Poyais,
situate on the coasts of Mosquito; and considering that similar
enterprises of unauthorised adventurers may he prejudicial to the
interests of the Republic and to themselves, in virtue of the pro
visions of the 5th Article of the Fundamental, it is decreed as
follows :
« Art. I. Is declared illegal every undertaking which has for its
object the colonisation of any point of that part of the coast
of Mosquito, from the Cape Gracias a Dios inclusive to the River
Chagres. which belongs, in dominion and property, to the Republic
of Colombia, in virtue of the formal declaration, made in San
Lorenzo on the 30th of November, 1803, by which the said part of
the coast of Mosquito is definitively adjoined to the ancient vice-
royalty of Nueva-Granada, and separated from the jurisdiction of
the captainrgeneralship of Guatimala, to which it previously be
longed. " Art. 2. It is declared also to all person or persons who, in con
travention of the former article, intend to found colonies or foreign
establishments on the above-mentioned coast of Mosquito, up
to Cape Gracias a Dios inclusive, that they incur the penalties to
which those persons are subjected who violently usurp national
property, and disturb internal peace and tranquillity, unless they
have previously obtained the approbation and consent of the
government, conformably to the laws.
" Art. 3. It is also declared, that the necessary approbation and
consent to colonise the coast of Mosquito, which is under the
immediate jurisdiction of the Republic, or partof it, not having
N2

196 GUATIMALA.
The ecclesiastical government of the kingdom of
Guatimala consists of an archbishop and three suffra
gans. The immediate diocese of the archbishop of
Guatimala, extending 214 leagues from west to
east, comprises 108 curacies, besides others under the
charge of the monastic orders, and 424 parochial
churches : it was created an episcopal see by Pope
Paul III. in 1534. The bishop of Leon has jurisdic
tion over the intendancy of Nicaragua and the
government of Costa Rica : in his diocese are
39 curacies and 88 parochial churches. The bishop
of Ciudad Real has under his jurisdiction the
whole of Chiapa, containing 38 curacies and 102
parish churches. The fourth bishopric is that of
Comayagua, comprising the intendancy of Honduras :
it contains 35 curacies and 145 parish churches. The
small district of Peten in Vera Paz, belongs to the
diocese of the bishop of Yucatan. Both the eccle
siastical and the civil distribution of the country,
however, will probably undergo considerable modi
fications under the new ord,er of things. The greater
part of the bishopric and intendancy of Chiapa has
become united to Mexico ; part of Vera Paz is eccle
siastically annexed to Yucatan ; and Colombia has
obtained, by the cession of Tologalpa, a large portion
of Nicaragua and of the bishopric of Leon, including
180 leagues of coast, the importance of which, in con
nexion with the projected communication between
the two oceans by means of the river San Juan and
the lake of Nicaragua, will be incalculable. Even
tually, Guatimala will probably be divided between
been granted to any person within or out of the territory of the
Republic, whatever person or persons, citizens or foreigners,
attempt to affect it, will, ipso facto, be subject to the consequences
to which such illegal and unatithoriscd conduct exposes them."

GUATIMALA. 197
¦Mexico and Colombia. The remainder of Nicaragua
and Costa Rica will naturally fall to the share of the
latter power, while the provinces to the northward
and west of' Cape Camaron, will more conveniently
unite themselves to the Mexican States. We shall
now proceed to give some further topographical details
¦respecting this almost unknown portion of the New
World. PROVINCES ON THE COAST OF THE PACIFIC.
The intendancy of Ciudad Real has been described
in the account of the Mexican States, with the excep
tion of the maritime district of Soconusco, which ex
tends fifty-eight leagues along the shores of the
Pacific, from the plains of Tonal_, in the district
of Tehuantepec, to the river Tilapa, which divides it
from Suchiltepec : its breadth, from the sea to the
mountains, is about sixteen leagues. The climate is
hot, the country level and fertile, yet, from want
of hands, very little of the land is under cultivation.
It is watered by fifteen rivers, and abounds in woods
of the most valuable trees. The principal productions
are indigo, vanilla, leche de marta (a valuable gum),
pita (a species of flax), cotton, cocoa (the most
esteemed of any in the kingdom), achidte, and a
great variety of medicinal plants and drugs. But, in
proportion as the valuable products of the earth in
this beautiful country are numerous, the abundance
of wild beasts and reptiles is so great, as to render it
almost uninhabitable. Among these is a peculiar
species of venomous wasp, called ahorcadores (hang
men), on account of the singular remedy which
is believed to be the only means of averting the
fatal effect of their sting : this is, " to plunge the

198 GUATIMALA.
sufferer immediately into the water, or to compress
the throat in the manner of hanging, till he is nearly
exhausted." The vernacular language of Soconusco
is the Mam, but the natives generally speak the
Spanish. The whole district contained, in 1778,
only twenty villages and about 9,000 inhabitants,
being less than a seventh part of the whole popula
tion of Chiapa. Yet, " this district," says Juarros,
" which in the present day is so much neglected, was,
in former times, one of the most populous and opulent
in the kingdom. The cocoa produced in it is still
Considered as superior to that of any other place
in the world. The ancient capital was the large
town of Soconusco, from which the province took its
name, situated between the villages of San Domingo
de Escuintla and Acocozagua. Besides the Indian
population, it was the residence of about 200 Spaniards.
But upwards of two centuries have now elapsed since
this extensive town fell to decay and was entirely
abandoned. The same fate has attended many other
villages of the district. Previously to the annexation
of the province of Soconusco to the intendancy of
Ciudad Real, it was distinguished as a government, —
a title given to the largest provinces only, and which
sufliciently shews the estimation in which it was
held." To the west of Soconusco, proceeding along the
coast, lies the alcaldia-mayor of Suchiltepec. It ex
tends in length thirty-two leagues, and the breadth
from the sea to the mountains is twenty-two leagues ;
but all the villages are comprised within the space
of twelve leagues. The whole province contains
only sixteen villages, and the inhabitants of these,
of the salt-works, the farms, and the manufac
tories, do not exceed 27,000. Yet, the climate,

GUATIMALA. 199
though warm, is less so than that of Soconusco,
and the province is equally fertile, being weH-
wooded, and watered by sixteen rivers : it pro
duces all the fruits, timber, gums, and medicinal
plants, peculiar to the tierras calientes. The chief
article of commerce is cocoa, which i. reckoned
quite equal, if not superior to that of Soconusco :
the inhabitants trade also in cotton and sapuyul,
the kernel of the sapote. " This is a fruit about
six inches in length : the kernel, which is from
two to three inches long, is enclosed in a shell
like a filbert, and round the shell is a pulp of a
fine scarlet colour, as beautiful to the eye as it
is delicious to the taste : over this there is a hardish
rind. The Indians mix the sapuyul with cocoa to
make chocolate. The abundance of sapotes is so great
in this province, that the fruit is thrown away to
obtain the sapuyul, of which the consumption is so
general, that, in Quezalttenango alone, the sale of it
amounts to between four and five thousand dollars
annually." The principal places in this province are : San An
tonio Suchiltepec, the ancient capital, now an insig
nificant village, but with a large and handsome
church: San Bartolome Mazatenango, the present
capital, situated in lat. 14° 20' N. ; long. 92° 26' W. ;
population between 2 and 3,000 : San Lorenzo el Real,
remarkable only for the pilgrimages made by the
people of the surrounding provinces to visit the image
of Nossa Senhbra de la Candelaria in its church : and
the two adjacent villages of San Antonio Retaluleuh
and Santa Catherina Sacatepec, which form the most
commercial place in the province, serving as a depot
for the productions of Soconusco and Tehuantepec.

200 GUATIMALA.
The language generally spoken by the natives, is the
Quiche dialect.
The third province, following the line of coast, is
that of Escuintla : * it extends 80 leagues along the
shores of the Pacific, and is above 30 leagues in
breadth ; yet, the population is only 38,400 souls. In
this province, the Spanish language is generally
spoken, but the mother tongue is the Sinca. The
only towns or villages worthy notice, are : La Concep
tion Escuintla, the residence of the alcalde-mayor,
situated in lat. 14° 15' N., and long. 91° 46' W.:
Guazacapan, formerly a separate alcaldia-mayor, but
now in decay : and Santa Cruz Chiquimula, two
leagues from Guazacapan, now the most populous
place in the district, containing upwards of 8,000 in
habitants, who are chiefly employed in the cultivation
of rice, with which they supply the capital. The town
of Escuintla is much frequented, Juarros says, by the
inhabitants of Guatimala, in the months of January
and February, for the purpose of bathing in the de
lightful river that flows close by it. The distance
irom Guatimala is seventeen leagues. It contains a
magnificent parish church, and an oratory dedicated
to San Sebastian : there were formerly four other
chapels, which have fallen to decay. About three
leagues from the town is the small village of Masagua,
which, like San Lorenzo in Suchiltepec, contains a
wonder-working image of the Virgin, which attracts
crowds of pilgrims.
Of the numerous rivers that water this province,
the most considerable is the Michatoyat, which flows
out of the lake Amatitan : after the course of a few .
leagues, it has a beautiful fall, called the falls of Sau
* Itzcuintli, in the Aztec or Mexican language, signifies dog*.

GUATIMALA, 201
Pedro Martin. The Rio de los Esclavos (slave river)
is distinguished by the bridge built over it'in 1592, by
far the handsomest and best constructed in the king
dom : it is 128 yards in length, 18 yards in breadth,
and has eleven arches. The river is of great depth,
¦and, in the rainy seasons, is so much swelled, that,
before the bridge was built, the communication was
then cut off between the eastern provinces and the
capitaL Notwithstanding the great height of the
bridge, the floods are sometimes so high as to cover
it, and have repeatedly occasioned serious damage.
Jt derives its name from the circumstance of Alva
rado's having punished some of the refractory Indians
in this quarter by branding them as slaves. The
river Guacalat, which rises in the province of Chi-
maltenango, flows by the site Of Old Guatimala, where
it is called the Magdalena : it is then joined by the
¦Mio Pensativo, and after entering the province of
Escuintla, receives so many tributary streams as to be
come navigable, and finally disembogues into the Pacific,
where it forms the bar of Istapa, celebrated for being
the place where Alvarado equipped his armaments in
the years 1534 and 1539. " This place," says Juarros,
" is highly deserving of notice in a commercial point
of view, as it affords every convenience and advantage .
for carrying on an extensive traffic in the Pacific.
Its contiguity to the city of Guatimala would enable
speculators to obtain all the productions of the country
at a moderate rate, which could be conveyed by land-
carriage to the place of embarkation at a trifling ex
pense, on a road that was opened and levelled in 1539,
for the purpose of transporting upon carriages Some
of Alvarado's small vessels. There is excellent an
chorage, well sheltered on every point ; there are
neither reefs nor shallows, and the entrance is perr

202 GUATIMALA.
fectly safe and easy. A redoubt, with four or six
pieces of cannon, would afford protection to the ship
ping ; and for the construction of such a defence, there
are many eligible points. With respect to ship-build
ing, the advantages are of still greater importance,
as wood of the best quality is found in the neighbour
hood, in quantities inexhaustible ; for the fertility of
the land is so great, and its quality so peculiarly
adapted to the growth of timber, that, after a tree is
felled, the root will send out five or six shoots that,
in four years, become trees of considerable girth and
height. The cedars are of immense size, some ex
ceeding seven fathoms in circumference. The wood
called polo de marta, excellent for masts, is in very
great abundance. Cordage is still more plentiful;
for, on every part of this coast, the pita grows luxu
riantly and profusely, which is much superior for
the manufacture of cables and other ropes, to the
esparto (genista hispanica). Pitch and tar are both
good and cheap in the valley of Jumais. Freights
of cocoa and other artioles of agricultural produce,
planks of cedar and caoba-wood, so much esteemed
for cabinet-work, may be procured here to almost any
extent. Notwithstanding all the inducements and
facilities for carrying on an important traffic which
this place offers, but little success has hitherto at
tended the various experiments that have been tried."
The little trade carried on by this province, is confined
to fish, salt, maize, bananas, sapotes, and other fruits,
which are carried to the market of Guatimala.
The most remarkable natural curiosity in Escuintla,
is the rock called La Pena de Mirandilla. Juarros
describes it as " a huge promontory of live rock, so
lofty as to be seen at many leagues' distance, the sum
mit presenting a most correct resemblance of a lai'ge

GUATIMALA. 203
trunk or chest ; and what appears to be the lid, is
perforated from side to side so exactly as to admit of
the light passing through." " These openings have
undoubtedly," he adds, " been made by lightning, as,
either from the great elevation of this vast pile, or
from the metallic attraction of its mass, in which
many veins of tin are apparent, the electric fluid is
invariably observed to strike against its surface, in
the frequent thunder-storms that take place in this
part." Like the other maritime provinces on the western
coast, Escuintla is infested by immense numbers of
noxious animals and reptiles. Among these, not the
least formidable are the warrior-ants (hormigas gu&r*
neras), who are double the size of tbe common ant,
and always move in regular array, like an army.
" Wherever they enter a house, they spread all over
it, and clear it so effectually as not to leave a single
worm, reptile, or vermin of any sort, behind them
when they depart- To the larger creatures, such as
snakes, scorpions, toads, rats, &c. they are formidable
from their numbers : in attacking these animals, they
adhere so closely to their bodies that they soon kill
them, and devour them to the bones. When they
have cleansed one house, they quit it, and proceed to
another." Juarros adds to this account a very mar
vellous property of these beneficent marauders. " If
any injury be done to them when in the house, they
revenge it by biting or stinging the assailant, and im
mediately retreat, leaving the vermin untouched ! " *
* There is _ Spanish saying, No ay criatura tan libre, a quien
falta su alguacil ; There is no creature so free a. to be without its
alguacil (police-officer). Snakes and scorpions, according to this
account, are not excepte. from this general law. In like manner,
the great American fire-fly preys upon mosquitoes and other gnats*

204 GUATIMALA.
This same writer describes a remarkable species of
snake, called by the Indians tepuleuat, which, he says,
has two heads, one at each extremity, and can ad
vance with facility in either direction without turning.
But he^does not affirm that he ever saw one of these
monstrous reptiles, and no mention of them occurs in
Alcedo's Dictionary. The danta or tapir, and the
cayman or alligator, are found in this province, and,
among other birds, the guaycamayo or macaw. The
vegetable productions are numerous and valuable.
The most esteemed is the banana, (here called gordo,)
which, says Juarros, " for delicacy of flavour, is supe^
rior to the anana (pine-apple), the guanabana, or the
chicozapote (little sapote or medlar), and, for beauty
of colour, to the scarlet sapote : being, perhaps, more
extensively useful than any other fruit, it forms a
principal article in the traffic of the province. In the
first place, it furnishes a substantial food, each fruit
yielding a large quantity of nutritive matter, without
skin, stone, or other inedible part. Poor people eat
it both in a ripe and an immature state, but others
only in a mature state, as it then has a most agreeable
flavour. Dried in the sun, it has an exquisite taste,
and is greatly superior to the dried figs brought from
Europe ; it is also eaten boiled, roasted, and fried with
sugar ; it furnishes the chief materials for several kinds
of savoury stews ; and finally, it supplies the place of
maize. Fuentes says, that the plantains, dried in an
oven, then peeled and pounded to a paste, and pressed
the toad is said to he an excellent fly-catcher ; snakes are good
mousers ; and the mouse is the enemy of the cock-roach. " We
have not - taken animals enough into alliance with us," says the
Author of Madoc; " the gull should be taught to catch fish for us in
the sea, the otter in fresh water. In hot countries, a reward should
be offered to the man who could discover what insect fed upon
fleas."— -Notes to Modoc, vol. ii. p. 323.

GUATIMALA. 205
into a vessel, may, after being kept for about a fort
night, be dissolved in. water and strained, and the
liquor will make a sort of wine, not to be distinguished
from that which is called Ojo de Gallo. The facility
of cultivating this valuable fruit, and the great
abundance of its produce, occasion its real worth to be
but ill appreciated, and its extensive utility to be much
neglected." • Among the other productions, are cin
namon wood (or cascarilla de loxa), tamarinds, cassia,
long pepper, ginger, the root suchilpactli, scorzonera,
orejuela, (the flowers of which are used to perfume
and flavour chocolate,) and excellent cocoa. The wood
aheady mentioned, called palo de maria, yields a sap
that is esteemed for its medicinal properties in healing
wounds and dissolving tumours. From the ule-tree
is obtained a paper, made of its bark ; and on piercing
its trunk, a liquor exudes copiously, which, when
boiled, becomes an excellent preservative of leather,
rendering it completely water-proof.
, The river Paza divides this province on the south
east, from the alcaldia-mayor of Zonzonate, (corrupted
from Zezontlatl -f-,) a territory of very small extent,
having only 18 leagues of coast and 13 leagues of
breadth, but much better peopled ; containing, within
these limits, a population of 45,000 souls. Sanlissima
Trinidad de Zonzonate, the head-town, is pleasantly
situated on the Rio Grande, in lat. 13° 35' N., and
long. 90° 26', about four leagues from the sea. It

* See for the importance and various uses of the banana, the
fruit of the plantain-tree {platano arton, zapalc-te, or musa paradi-
siaca), vol. i. p. 180! and Humboldt, Pol. Ess., vol. ii. pp. 366-380.
f This word, in the Mexican language, is said to signify many
springs, and is the name given to the provincial capital from the
river on which 'it is situated, now called Rio Grande, which is
formed by innumerable springs.

206 GUATIMALA.
contains a spacious church, three oratories, four con
vents, royal magazines, and a treasury. The popu
lation, in 1778, amounted to 3,500, of whom neariy
500 were Spaniards. On the opposite side of the
river, communicating with the town by a stone bridge,
is a suburb called the barria del angel, with a chapel ;
and in the vicinity are three small Indian villages,
numerous cottages, and gardens. The climate is very
hot. Acajutla, the port of Zonzonate, is merely an
open bay, without shelter ; yet, notwithstanding the
difficulties of the coast, it is the anchoring-place for
ships coming from Peru with freights of wine, brandy,
oils, olives, raisins, skins, and other produce ; in return
for which, they take back indigo, sarsaparilla, naphtha,
tar, turpentine, balsam, amber, and other gums and
resins, in which this province carries on a considerable
commerce.* An inland trade is likewise carried on
in mats, woven in different colours by the Indians,
which are used in Guatimala as -carpets. The pro
vince yields also cotton, cocoa, sugar, indigo, sessamum ,
and rice. The other chief places are Agnachapa, a
large and flourishing town, in a district producing
excellent sugar; and Izalco, containing two parishes,
with a population exceeding 6,000. The volcano of
Izalco, from which the town takes its name, is distin
guished by its frequent eruptions: a very violent one
took place in April 1798, which lasted for several
days. The fifth province, that of San Salvador, is of suffi
cient importance to be made an intendancy. It is
bounded on the west by Zonzonate, on the east and
* About forty leagues north-west of the port of Acajutla, in
the province of Escuintla, is a small bay, called in some maps,
the port of Guatimala; but this, Juarros says, is an error: it is
not a port, nor has it any shelter whatever.

GUATIMALA. 207
north by Comayagua, and extends fifty leagues along
the shores of the Pacific : its breadth is about thirty
leagues. It is more numerously peopled than any
other province, the number of inhabitants being up-
wards'of 211,000. The Indians of this intendancy
are highly civilised, and all speak Spanish. The most
•valuable trade of the whole country is carried on here,
the principal branch of which is indigo, now become
almost exclusively a production of this province. From
the rich tract of country within this intendancy,
called the Balsam coast, is obtained the richest balsam
in the world.* The valuable plant which grows here
in great abundance, not only yields both the white
and the black balsam, but a nut from which is ex
tracted the oil of balm, and a spirit called aguardiente
de balsamo, is distilled from the flowers. There are
said to be mines also of silver, iron, and lead.
The intendancy is divided into four districts. The
first, proceeding from west to east, is that of Santa
Ana. The climate in this district is milder than in
any other part of the intendancy ; the chief article of
commerce is sugar, with some indigo, cattle, and
sheep. The town of Santa Ana Grande, which gives
name to the district, contained, in 1778, a population
exceeding 6,000, of whom about 350 were Spaniards.
Chaichuapa is a large, well-built village ; the principal
occupation of the inhabitants is breeding hogs. The
best-built town in the district is San Pedro Matapas,
situated about two leagues from the lake Guija,
which communicates with the river Lempa, the largest
in the kingdom. At its lowest ebb, that river is said to
exceed 140 yards in breadth. The lake is about eight
* This balsam, says Juarros, has always been so highly esteemed,
that, in 1562 and 1571, Popes Pius IV. and V. granted permission
that the American balsam might be used in the holy chrism.

208 GUATIMALA.
leagues in length and three in width, and abounds
"with fish. In the environs of Matapas are five iron
founderies. The church is handsome and richly enr
dowed : the population exceeds 4,000.
The city of San Salvador, which gives its name to
the principal district, as well as to the whole inten
dancy, stands in a delightful valley, surrounded by
mountains covered with wood, which terminate towards
the north-east in a volcanic summit, that has caused
at different periods great devastation by its eruptions :
it is in lat. 13° 36' N. ; long. 89° 46' W. The town
was founded in 1528, with the view to keep the pro
vince of Cuscatlan (land of riches), as it was then
called, in subjection. It was created a city by Charles
the Fifth in 1545. Besides the church of San Salvador,
there are four oratories, three convents, Dominican,
Franciscan, and Mercedarian, a custom-house, a post-
office, a tobacco-factory, and a town-house. The
streets are laid out in right lines, the houses are com
modious, and the markets are well supplied. The
inhabitants, in 1778, were nearly 12,000, of whom
600 were Spaniards. The population has doubtless
considerably increased since that time. The distance
from Guatimala is 60 leagues E.S.E. The other priii-
cipal towns of the district, are Nejapa, Tejutla, San
Jacinto, Suchitoto, Cojutepec, Texacuangos, Olocuilta,
Tonacatepec, Chalatenango, and Masagua. The trade
of this district, which contains half the population of
the intendancy, is chiefly confined to indigo, to which,
indeed, the inhabitants devote their attention almost
exclusively, so as to neglect the culture of other
articles of prime necessity. " The cultivation of
indigo," Humboldt says, " which is very general in
Guatimala and Caraccas, is neglected in Mexico ; and
indigo is annually imported from Guatimala, where

GUATIMALA. 209
the total produce of the plantations amounts to the
value of twelve millions of livres. Baynal is wrong
when he maintains that the Europeans introduced the
cultivation of this valuable plant into America.
Several species of indigofera are peculiar to the New
Continent. Ferdinand Columbus, in the life of his
father, mentions indigo among the productions of
Hayti. Hernandez describes the process by which
the natives separated the fecula from the juice of the
plant; a process different from that now employed.
The small cakes of indigo dried by fire, were called
mohuitli or tleuohuilli : the plant was designated by the
name Xiuhquilipitzahuac." * In Guatimala, the
plant is called Giquilite, and the indigo prepared from
it, anil: the former is the native name ; the latter
has passed into the Spanish language from the Arabic
word niz or nil. Hernandez calls the Mexican in
digo, aniz.
The district of San Vicente has « climate more
intensely warm than San Salvador: its trade consists
chiefly in tobacco and dyeing materials. The head
town, San Vicente de Austria, otherwise called
Lorenzana, is situated on the skirts of a lofty moun
tain, at the base of which are several caverns, wherein
are some warm springs ; the waters are extremely
fetid, and " burst forth with ah incredible noise."
In different parts of the valley there are mineral
springs of different temperature, and the whole region
bears marks of volcanic phenomena. Two deep rivers,
the Acaguapa and the Amapulta, nearly surround the
town ; the one skirting the northern side, the other
flowing on the south ; and at a short distance is a
third river, called the San Christobal. These three
* Pol. Essay, vol. iii. p. 44.

210 GUATIMALA.
streams are said to vary most remarkably in tempera
ture. The waters of the Acaguapa are particularly
cold, those of the Amapulta are warm, while the San
Christobal is always of the temperature of the human
body. The climate is warm and humid, but healthy.
Besides the principal church of San Vicente, there is a
very handsome one dedicated to Nossd Senhora del
Pilar, erected at the sole cost of a private individual ;
it has three vaulted aisles of beautiful architecture,
and is richly decorated. There is also an oratory of
Calvary, and a Franciscan convent. It is 74 leagues
from Gnatimala, 14 leagues east of San Salvador, and
23 west of San Miguel. At the base of the volcano of
San Vicente, and directly opposite the town of the
same name, is the village of Sacatecoluca, " one of the
finest in the kingdom," with a population of upwards
of 5,000 persons. About a league from San Vicente,
on the skirts of the same mountain, in a mild climate,
is the large village of Apastepec, noted for its annual
fair, held on the 1st of November, for the sale of
dyeing woods, &c. The village of Istepee is celebrated
for its tobacco ; and at the adjoining village of Tepe-
titan, there is a royal tobacco-factory.
The fourth and most easterly district of the in
tendancy is that of San Miguel, the climate of which
is intensely hot and insalubrious: the produce consists
chiefly of indigo and tobacco. On the coast are two
ports ; one called Jiquiffisco, the entrance of which is
six leagues eastward of the bar of the river Lempa ;
it is shut in by several islands, that shelter and defend
the anchorage; The other, called Conehagua, is a
large bay, capable of receiving ships of any tonnage ;
it is situated on the confines of the province towards
the district of Cholulteca. The city of San Miguel de
la Frontera, situated in lat. 12° 50' N., and long. 88°

GUATIMALA. 211
46' W., contains a good church, two convents, Fran
ciscan and Mercedarian, an oratory, and a town-house ;
the population exceeds 6,000 souls. It was formerly
much more populous. " Indeed," says Juarros,
" the commercial advantages it enjoys, would render
it one of the most numerously peopled places in the
kingdom ; but the insalubrity of the climate keeps
down the number of the native residents, and deters
others from taking up their abode in it." The inha
bitants are said to be wealthy. It is 12 leagues from
the sea, 37 from San Salvador, and 97 from Guati
mala. The other towns are San Alexis, Chapeltic,
and San Juan Chinameca. The last of these, situ
ated in an elevated region, enjoys a mild and salu
brious climate, and the soil produces all the species of
grain, fruit, and vegetables peculiar to the temperate
zone, with which it supplies the city of San Miguel.
At Estanzuelas, a small village of Indians and Mulat
toes, there is a mineral spring which has petrifying
properties. The whole of this fine province invites the especial
attention of the geologist and naturalist, from the
very circumstances which render it an undesirable
residence. The violent earthquakes by which it has
repeatedly been visited," the three volcanoes of San
Salvador, San Miguel, and San Vicente, (from the
former two of which eruptions have happened within
, the memory of the natives,) the sulphureous springs
in the valley of San Vicente, and other circumstances,
indicate that the shores of the Pacific here form but
an immense vault over the subterranean depositories
of combustible matter which feed the volcanic furnaces.

* Those from which it has suffered the greatest injury, took
place in the years 1575, 1593, 1625, 1656, and 1798.
PAHT IV. O

212 GUATIMALA.
There seems to be a repetition here of many of the
phenomena which occur on the coast of Valladolid.*
The volcanoes of San Salvador tower far above the
neighbouring mountains, especially that of San Vi
cente. No account exists of any eruption from this
volcano, but the numerous springs of warm water
that descend from its sides, are all impregnated with
sulphur ; and on its northern flank is an aperture, called
the Infernillo, which emits smoke or vapour like the
hornitos of Jorullo. In this direction also are many
other openings, filled with very hot water, in which
may be heard a noise resembling that of a fluid in a
istate of ebullition, (a circumstance observed also in
the Malpays,) and this noise is increased by the
slightest agitation of the air, even by the human
voice. On some parts of the mountain, we are told,
is found a very white earth, commonly used for paint
ing in distemper ; in other parts are yellow, rose-
coloured, purple, and blue earths ; green copperas.is
also met with. These are doubtless pyrites. No in
formation of a scientific kind is to be obtained from
the vague accounts of the native writers. The alti
tude of the volcan is said to be so great that, in the
upper regions, the cold is excessive ; but, whether it
rises into the region of snow, is not stated. Among
the animals who inhabit it, are the wild boar and the
danta or tapir.
The lakes of Guija (or Guixar) and Metapa form
one of the most interesting features of this intendancy.
They are said to communicate by a subterranean
channel. The lake of Metapa, which is fed by the
rivers Langue and Languetuyo, and has, apparently,
no other outlet, by this means discharges, its super-
» See p. 126 of this volume.

GUATIMALA. 213
fiuous waters." The lake Guija, which is twenty
leagues in extent, is also fed by the large river Mit-
lan, which, augmented in its long course by many
tributary streams, discharges itself into the lake under
the name of the river Ostua, near the village so called.
The river Guija, a large and powerful stream, in no
part fordable, flows out of the lake, and, after a Wind
ing course, joins the river Lempa. This latter river
has its sources in the mountains of Esquipulas, in the
province of Chiquimula. It is at first an inconsiderable
rivulet called the Sesecapa ; but, in a course of more
than forty leagues, it receives the tribute of a great
number of small streams, and after being joined by
the Guija, rolls an immense volume of water towards
the Pacific, where it discharges a little to the westward
of the Bay of Jiquilisco, forming the boundary be
tween the districts of San Vicente and San Miguel.
The two lakes above-mentioned furnish to the whole
district an inexhaustible supply of delicate fish. In
the middle of that of Guija, is a large island most pic
turesquely clothed with wood, which gives cover to
immense quantities of game. On this island, are the
ruins of some ancient buildings, called by the natives
Tzacualpa (old village), which are of sufficient extent
to convey the idea of its having been a place of some
importance. -f Two other lakes are mentioned by
Juarros, those of Texacuangos and Gilopango, which,
he says, afford variojis kinds of fine fish, more than
- * We say apparently, because the vague statement of juarros
requires to be verified by actual investigation.
t In the interior of the woods on this island, Fuentes states,
that it had been affirmed on very respectable authority, that satyrs
had been frequently seen. Juarros dismisses the assertion as ^ride-
serving of attention; yet, it might be worth inquiry, whether
these woods may not conceal a species of anthropomorphous ape,
or savages.

214 GUATIMALA.
erjough for the markets of San Salvador and a great
portion of the intendancy; but he gives no account
of their situation or extent.
Almost the whole of the tract of country which we
have been describing, lies either within the regions
called the tierras calientes, or occupies the southern
declivity of the cordillera, the crests of which, " brist
ling with volcanic cones," stretch along the coast of
the Pacific from the lake of Nicaragua to the bay of
Tehuantepec. The province of Costa Rica likewise
Contains volcanoes. But the most remarkable are in
the inland province of Sacatepec, which, as comprising
both the ancient and the modern capital, will now
Claim our attention. It forms part of the territory
designated in some geographical works by the name
of Guatimala Proper.*
* In a recent geographical work, Guatimala is with singular
inaccuracy described as containing eight provinces, viz. Chiapa,
Vera Paz, Guatimala Proper, Soconusco, Honduras, Nicaragua,
Costa Rica, and Veragua. The latter belongs to New Granada.
It is hard to say what is meant to be included in Guatimala
Proper. Its boundaries are said to be Vera Paz and Chiapa on
the N.E. (an obvious blunder for N.W.) ; Honduras on the E. ;
Nicaragua on the S.E. ; and Oaxaca on the N. and W. Oaxaca
neither lies in that direction, nor can it touch on Guatimala Proper,
as Soconusco divides them. No notice is taken in this enumeration,
of the important intendancy of San Salvador. Guatimala Proper,
therefore, would, according to this statement, comprise the four
maritime provinces of Suchiltepec, Escuintla, Zonzonate, and San
Salvador, or the whole coast between Soconusco and Nicaragua,
and the five midland provinces ! It would more correctly be re
stricted to the three interior provinces, lying between Vera Paz on
the north and Escuintla on the south, which composed the ancient
Kachiquel or Guatimalan kingdom. In Alcedo's Dictionary, a
work considered as a high authority, Guatimala is described with
similar inaccuracy. It is stated to contain 13 provinces, viz. Soco
nusco, Chiapa, Suquitepec, Vera Paz, Honduras, Icaico8t San
Salvador, San Miguel, Nicaragua, Xeres de Ia Choluteca, Tegusi-
galpa, and Coata Rica. These 13 provinces arc said to be divided

GUATIMALA. 215

VALLEY OP GUATIMALA.
The province of Sacatepec, being of limited extent,
though unusually populous, is only an alcaldia-mayor.
It lies between the 14th and 15th parallels of north
latitude, and between long. 90° 46' and 91° 46' W.
It is not above 20 leagues in length, and is nearly as
much in breadth, and contains upwards of 115,600
inhabitants. It is the most southern of the five in
terior provinces, and, together with the alcaldias of
Chimaltenango and Solola, formed the ancient king
dom of Kachiquel. Within these contracted limits,
the country presents a singular variety of surface and
of climate. The soil, Juarros says, is favourable to
the productions of every temperature. The Vale of
Guatimala, known also by the name of Pasuya, seems
to bear an analogy to that series of immense, plains
which encircle the capital of Mexico. It consists of
nine basins or valleys, of varying elevation, comprised
within one vast circuit, which extends from the moun
tains of Quezaltenango on the west, to the maritime
province of Chiquimula on the east. Three of these
valleys, those of Chimaltenango, Xilop^tec, and AloT
tenango, are comprised within the alcaldia-mayor of
Chimaltenango : the other six, which form the alcal
dia-mayor of Sacatepec, are the valleys of Guatimala,
Mixco, Sacatepec, Las Vacas, Mesas de Petapa, and
Canales. We are unacquainted with the different
into 25 governments and alcaldias-mayores ; and afterwards, the
province of Guatimala, (which is not mentioned in the first enu- #
meration,) is stated to be one ofthe three composing the kingdom. '
It is needless to point out the gross inaccuracies in this account.
Icalcos is probably Izalco in Zonzonate, which does not appear to
have ever formed either an alcaldia-mayor or a corregimiento. The
same remark applies to San Miguel. o 2

216 GUATIMALA.
elevations of these valleys, as no Humboldt has
hitherto explored this region ; but there is reason to
suppose that they, will be found to vary not less re
markably in their climate and productions, than the
four Mexican plateaus.* Juarros states, that the val
ley of Chimaltenango enjoys a cold, dry, but healthy
'climate, and that it is of so exactly proportioned a
level, that the drainage waters of one half of the town
of Santa Ana descend into the Atlantic, and those of
the other half into the Pacific. The soil produces
wheat, maize, and European fruits. The vicinity of
Almolonga and San Gaspar in Sacatepec, used to sup
ply the capital with pulque or maguey wine, until the
governor, Andres de los Navas, prohibited the traffic
under pain of excommunication ; while, in the valley
of Xilotepec, the sugar-cane is cultivated.
That which is properly called the Valley of Guati
mala -f occupies nearly the centre of the chain of
plateaus, having the valleys of Chimaltenango and
Xilotepec on the north, that of Mixco on the east,
that of Petapa on the south, and that of Alote-
nango on the west. Old Guatimala stands nearly
in the centre of the plain, encompassed by eleven
suburbs, which are environed by no fewer than thirty-
one villages, the most distant of which is not two
leagues from the city : some of these are on the plain,
others on the declivities of the mountains. The
* The valley of Toluca is 8,530 feet, the valley of Tenochtitlan
7,460 feet, the valley of Actopan 6,450 feet, and the valley of Istla
3,300 feet, above the level of the sea. They differ as much in
their climate as in their elevation, each being adapted to a different
species of cultivation. The last, which is the least elevated, ad
mits ofthe growth ofthe sugar-cane; the third is adapted for that
of cotton ; the second, for the cultivation of European gram ; and
the first, for agave-plantations.— Humboldt, Pol. Essay, vol. i.
p. 50.
t Its ancient name was the valley of Tucrto or Panchoi.

GUATIMALA. 217
present inhabitants are, it seems, indebted to the
Spanish conquerors for this succession of villages. It
appears from the records of the cabildo, that soon after
the city was founded, a distribution was made, in lots,
of the lands in the valley. It being found, however,
that some of the worthy citizens had, in the scramble,
got possession of larger portions than fell to their
share, while others had none, in a meeting of the
cabildo held in April 1528, it was determined to
equalise the distribution by dividing the whole valley
into lots called caballerias and peonerias ; the former,
1,000 paces long by 600 in breadth; the latter, half
that quantity. To a horse-soldier was assigned a
caballeria ; to a foot-soldier, a peoneria. These lots
were laid out by the proprietors, some as maize-fields,
others as gardens, or for other agricultural labours.
" At this period," continues Juarros, " there were
great numbers of the unreclaimed natives wandering
about in the forests and on the mountains, without
any kind of subjection or government, who were very
detrimental to thos& who had already been converted.
The Spaniards, desirous of applying a remedy to this
evil, began to devise means of collecting them toge
ther, and establishing them in small villages. This
design was still further promoted by various edicts
from the king, particularly one dated June 10, 1540,
which especially ordered that all methods should be
tried to induce the Indians to live in societies and form
villages, to accomplish more effectually the important
object of civilising and instructing them. As the
wild Indians disregarded all the friendly offers that
were made them, and shewed but little inclination to
listen to the preaching of the missionaries, the gover
nor gave permission to hunt them out of their retreats.
In consequence, the officers, each taking ten or twelve

218 GUATIMALA.
soldiers, sallied forth on the darkest nights, conducted
by expert guides, to an Indian hovel, where they fre-
quently seized six, eight, or ten Indians, whom they
brought home and placed on their maize-plantations
and other works, under the superintendence of careful
persons. These excursions were repeated until sixty,
eighty, two hundred, three hundred, or even greater
numbers were got together and formed into a village,
on which was usually bestowed the name of the saint
of the proprietor's peculiar devotion, with the addition
of the surname of his family. Thus, Luis de Bivar
established the village called San Gaspar Bivar;
Ignacio de Bobadilla, that of Santa Catarina
Bobadilla ; Alonzo de Zamora, that of Santiago
-_ am or a, at a, place where he used to wash the soil to
find gold ; and Gabriel Cabrera, that of San Lucas
Cabrera.* Several others are designated by the
dignity or office held by their founders ; as, San
Juan del Obispo, founded by Bishop Francisco de
Marroquin ; San Andres Dean, founded by Dean
Juan Alonzo ; and San Pedro Tesorero, established
by the treasurer, Pedro de Becerra. San Miguel Milpa
Duenas, founded by Alvarado, is named from a portion
of land which he had ordered to be sown with maize
for the benefit of the widows of his soldiers ; San
Dionisio Pastores is said to have received its name
from the inhabitants having tended Alvarado's flocks ;
and San Luis de las Carretas was so called because
the inhabitants were chiefly cartwrights. The in-
* Others are enumerated by Juarros, which we have not thought
it necessary to particularise. San Lucas Cabrera is also called Sari
Lucas Yehanzuquit, which signifies, in the Pipil language, house of
mud ; deriving this appellative from some wells near the village,
" in which, if any kind of linen be laid for three or four days, it
will be dyed a most beautiful black, and the colour so durable
that it cannot be discharged."— J. _rros, p. 479, note.

GUATIMALA. 219
habitants of the city derive many advantages from
these numerous places : besides the supply of every
kind of provisions, they draw plenty of hands for their
different works and manufactories. If a person is in
want of bricklayers, he is sure of finding them at
Jocotenango, Santa Ana, and San Gaspar ; masons at
San Cristoval (the lower) ; gardeners at San Pedro
de las Huertas ; bakers at Santa Ana ; and butchers
at Santa Isabel. The inhabitants of Ahnolonga supply
the city with fruit of all kinds, either the growth
of their own gardens, or procured from other villages
towards the mountains or the sea-shore ; Ahnolonga
and Upper San Cristoval furnish all kinds of flowers ;
San Gaspar and Ahnolonga used to supply pulque ;
and San Pedro de las Huertas sends cauliflowers,
cabbages, onions, and every other description of gar
den vegetables. Wood, coals, and similar articles
of domestic necessity, are brought from the other
villages." This description, while it discloses the unprincipled
method pursued by the Spanish conquerors for sub
jugating and converting the natives, shews that the
site of Alvarado's capital was not injudiciously chosen.
The spot first selected was about a league to the
south-west of Old Guatimala, between the two vol
canoes, near the place now called Ahnolonga, and
sometimes Ciudad Vieja (the old city).* The settle
ment here, Juarros states, was meant to be a tem-
* It is a disputed point among the Spanish historians, whether
the first settlement was at Ahnolonga, or in the capital of King
Sinacam, the Indian city of Tecpanguatemala, which occupied the
site of San Miguel Tzacualpa, a village at a short distance. Juarros
says, that directly above Tzacualpa (which signifies old town),
may be flistinguished the deep channel made by the torrent of
water and detached masses of rock by which the old town wa»
overwhelmed.

220 . GUATIMALA.
porary one, until a more convenient spot could be
selected ; but, " not discovering another situation
offering superior advantages, the inhabitants deter
mined to remain here, and to extend their buildings a
little to the eastward, upon the skirt of the mountain
called the Volcan de Agua ; a place of great fertility,
very pleasant, under a fine climate, healthy, and
abundantly supplied with excellent water. On this
spot, they commenced building the city on the 22d of
November, 1527 ;. and in a short time they had
erected a decent cathedral, convents of Dominicans,
Franciscans, and Mercedarians, two hermitas, a town-
house, and a hospital. After fourteen years' progress,
further improvements were stopped by a calamity that
finally decided its fate. On the night of Septem
ber 11, 1541, an eruption of water from the mountain
took place, when a torrent so immense rolled down
from the summit, sweeping before it large trees and
enormous rocks, that the city was overwhelmed, the
buildings destroyed, and great part of the inhabitants
buried beneath the ruins.* This irreparable disaster
* The account which Juarros gives of this dreadful catastrophe,
is as follows. " It had rained incessantly and with great violence
on the three preceding days, particularly on the night of the 10th,
when the water descended more like the torrent of a cataract than
rain. The fury of the wind, the incessant, appalling lightning and
dreadful thunder, were indescribable. The general terror was
increased by eruptions from the volcano to such a degree, that,
in this combination of horrors, the inhabitants imagined the
final destruction of the world was at hand. At two o'clock on
the morning of the 11th, the vibrations of the earth were so
violent, that the people were unable to stand. The shocks were
accompanied with a terrible subten-anean noise, which spread
universal dismay. Shortly afterward, an immense torrent of
water rushed down from the summit of the mountain, forcing
away with it enormous fragments of rocks and large trees, which,
descending upon tlie ill-fated town, overwhelmed and destroyed
almost all the houses, -and buried a great number of inhabitants
under the ruins."

GUATIMALA. 221
compelled the survivors to seek another settlement ;
and they fixed upon the place where Old Guatimala
now stands, about _ league north-east of Ciudad
Vieja." Among the victims of this catastrophe, was Dona
Beatriz de la Cueba, the widow of Pedro de Alvarado,
who had been elected governess of the city. While
the survivors were holding a council in the cathedral
on the 18th of September, a week after the eruption,
to deliberate on the removal of the city, several
shocks of earthquake compelled them to seek their
safety by flight. At a subsequent meeting, on the
27th, the removal was resolved on by a majority
of forty-three votes against five. The situations at
first proposed for the new city were, the valleys of
Alotenango and Chimaltenango ; and a considerable
majority gave the preference to the latter. But,
at this juncture, there arrived an engineer sent out by
the Spanish Government, Juan Battista Antonelli, in
consequence of whose representation, both plans were
given up, and the valley of Tuerto, or Panchoi, was
finally chosen as the site for the city of Santiago.
The council in which, this decision was made, took
place on the 22d of October, 1541 ; and such was the
zeal of the people in carrying on the work, that by the
May following, a great part of the city was inhabited,
although the complete demarcation of it was not
finished before November. It was the metropoUs of
the kingdom until the year 1776, when the capital
was transferred to the valley of Mixco,.in consequence
of the devastation occasioned by the earthquake of
1773.

222 GUATIMALA.

OLD GUATIMALA.
Old Guatimala (la Antigua Guatimala), an
ciently a city and the metropolis of the kingdom, now
ranks only as » town ; it is, however, as being the
residence of the alcalde mayor, the provincial capital
of Sacatepec. Its proper title is Santiago (or San
Jago) de los Caballeros de Guatimala. Saint Cecilia
is also considered as the co-patroness of the city, in
consequence of a memorable victory obtained over the
Kachiquel Indians, who had revolted, in 1526.* It
was constituted an episcopal see in 1534 by Pope
* The history of this revolt is briefly given by Juarros. When
Pedro de Alvarado left Guatimala in 1526 to wait upon Cortes, he
left his brother Gonzalo lieutenant of the newly acquired kingdom
during his absence. Impelled by avarice, Gonzalo determined to
improve the favourable opportunity of enriching himself. '* With
this view, he demanded an exorbitant tribute from the populous
village of Pitinamit, requiting that 800 of the Indians should each
bring him, everyday, a reed of the size of his little finger filled with
fine gold, under the penalty of being taken as slaves. The
unhappy victims of his rapacity exerted themselves to the utmost
to pay this iniquitous exaction ; but all their endeavours being in
effectual, the governor went to the village, inflicted severe punish
ments, and threatened them with death, should his demand be
neglected. The natives, driven to desperation by these vexations,
invoked all the towns of the Kachiquel nation to their aid, and
soon collected a force of 30,000 combatants. A part of this host
was detached to defend the mountains in the road from Petapa,
by which they feared Pedro de Alvarado might return, while the
main body suddenly fell upon the town, and, taking the inhabit
ants by surprise, killed many, wounded more, and put the rest to
flight. After this defeat, the city was abandoned by the Spaniards,
until the return of Alvarado, who, without loss of time, exerted
himself to regain what they had been deprived of, and to reduce
the Kachiquels once more to subjection. This was not done
without great trouble, and several severe contests. He at last van
quished them, after a very obstinate battle, and they then
submitted. This victory was obtained on the 22d of November,
St. Cecilia's day."

GUATIMALA.'
Paul III., and Pope Benedict XIV. in 1742 raised it
to the rank of a metropolitan city. " It stands in a
delightful valley, shut in by mountains and hills that
always retain their verdure, and encompassed by
meadows and lands which supply pasturage to large
herds of cattle. Two rivers run through the valley,
and supply to the gardens and meadows, the farms
and country-houses, every convenience for irrigation.
The climate is extremely agreeable, and of so happy
a medium, that neither heat nor cold ever pre
dominates, to the injury of vegetation ; but a perpetual
spring presents its varied bounties. The city extends
about twelve squares of houses (manzanas)* in the
narrowest part : the streets are broad; straight, and
well paved, running in right lines from east to west
and from north to south, except in the suburbs, where
are many both narrow and irregular. There are
numerous fountains, supplied from three diflferent
springs ; and water is also diffused into all parts
of the city by pipes, so that there is scarcely a house
without three, or four cisterns regularly replenished.
There are large reservoirs in the streets and public
places : that in the Great Square is worthy of notice,
being constructed entirely of stone, very well wrought;
and .filled by two different streams that fall into it oh
opposite sides. The consistbrial houses deserve atten
tion, both for the solidity of building, and their
excellent distribution, as well as for an elegant cor!
ridor fronting the square, formed by columns and
arches of masonry. There . are . thirty-eight edifices
appropriated to religious worship and establishments,
viz. the cathedral, three parish churches, and sixteen
* A manzana is a solid square of houses, formed by the intersec
tion of streets at right angles, and varying in extent from 150 to
350 yards in front. .
PART IV. -

224 GUATIMALA.
Others, eight convents for men, eight for women, the
congregations of San Felipe Neri, and of Calvary, and
eleven chapels. The cathedral is a magnificent
temple, more than 300 feet long, 120 broad, and
nearly seventy high, lighted by fifty windows ; it has
three aisles, and eight chapels on each side, of which
those of the Sanctuary and Nuestra Senora del
Socorro are very spacious ; the decorations consist of
beautiful statues, paintings of the best masters, many
inestimable relics, and numerous utensils of gold and
silver. The grand altar stood under a cupola, sup
ported by sixteen columns, faced with tortoiseshell,
and adorned with medallions in bronze of exquisite
workmanship ; on the cornice are placed the statues
of the Virgin and the twelve apostles in ivory. In
this sumptuous edifice, to which there are seven
spacious entrances, repose the ashes of Pedro de
Alvarado, the conqueror of the country, of Francisco
Marroquin, the first bishop, eight of his successors,
and of many other illustrious men. The church
of San Domingo deserved notice by its elegant design,
great elevation, capacious vestibule, and splendid
decorations, among which was a statue of the Virgin
del Bosario, nearly six feet in height, of massive
silver. In the church of San Francisco, one of the
largest in the city, were three alcoves, beautifully and
richly adorned, which contributed greatly to the splen
dour of the grand altar ; the singularly curious chapel
of Our Lady of Loretto, in which the image of the
Virgin of Alcantara * is worshipped ; at the portal
* " This image is not without its miracle, for it appears (from
records juridically authenticated, obtained in the year 1601, and
preserved in the archives of the convent), that it is the identical
Image which was worshipped at Alcantara in Estremadura, where
the tradition was, that it had been found in the Tiver Tagus, en-

GUATIMALA. 225
there are several statues of saints done in stucco, and
enamelled, which far exceed any thing of the kind in
the kingdom. But the greatest treasure in popular
estimation belonging to the church, are the mortal
relics of Pedro de San Jose de Betancurt,* that
are preserved under the safeguard of three keys, in a
niche on the left hand side of the presbytery. The
church of the College of Jesuits, and that of Nuestra
Senora de la Merced, each spacious, and with three
aisles, possess their due share of magnificence. The
Dominican, Franciscan, and Mercedarian convents,
are the most remarkable for their size, solidity of the
building, neatness, and convenient arrangement of
their respective offices. Of the nunneries, that of La
Conception is the largest ; it is said to have been
formerly inhabited by upwards of 1,000 persons, nuns,
pupils, and servants." ¦f
In the time of its prosperity, as the capital of
the kingdom, Old Guatimala was the residence of the
captain-general, who was also president of the chan
cery and royal audiencia. In 1676, the royal and
pontifical university of San Carlos was founded by
Charles II., on which, in 1687, Pope Innocent XI.
conferred all the privileges enjoyed by the universities
of Mexico and Lima. This city has given birth
to many illustrious individuals. Among these, the
closed with the infant Don Pelayo, in a chest, and the preservation
of the prince was attributed to the special protection of his virgin
patroness." * " Pedro de Betancurt was a priest, native of the island of
Teneriffe, who settled in Guatimala; he was held in great estima
tion by the populace, who believed that he wrought miracles : the
subject of his beatification was warmly debated in the Romish con
clave, but not carried; however, Pope.Clem._t XIV. declared that
his virtues were entitled to the most heroic degree."
f Juarros, pp. 112 — 14.

226 GUATIMALA.
native Historian above cited enumerates, Christoval
Flores, a Franciscan, of one of the noblest families of
Guatimala, who suffered a cruel death for preaching
Christianity in Algiers in 1627 ; Diego de la Cerda,
of the order of La Merced, who was torn in pieces by
four horses at Constantinople for preaching Chris
tianity ; Bias de Morales, a Franciscan of noble race
and exemplary virtue, who died in 1646 ; Alonzo
Sanchez, a secular priest, who, for his eminent
virtues, was honoured with a public funeral, — he died
in 1652 ; Juan Bautista Alvarez de Toledo, of an
illustrious family, who, after filling the Duns Scotus
professorship in the university of San Carlos, was
raised to the episcopal chairs, successively, of Chiapa;
Guatimala, and Guadalaxara, and died in his native
country in 1726 ; Juan de Padilla, a secular eccle
siastic of considerable literary- attainments, who died
in 1 749 ; Miguel de Zilieza y Velasco, of a noble
family, bishop of Cuidad Real, where • he died in
1768; Antonio de Pineda y Ramirez, who accom
panied Malaspina, in a scientific capacity, in his
voyage round the globe ; Ignacio Ceballos, dean of
Mexico and Seville, member of the Royal Spanish
Academy, and one of the compilers of the Spanish
Dictionary; and lastly, Miguel Gutierres, an ex-
jesuit, who died at Rome in 1794, — his life has been
written in Latin by Luis Maniero.
The history of Old Guatimala is singularly disastrous.
Juarros devotes a separate chapter to its calamities,
beginning with the Kachiquel revolt of 1526, and the
destruction of the Ciudad Vieja, and bringing down
the story to the fatal earthquake of 1773." Although
* In these disastrous annals of the first city, it is recorded, that
in 1532, " the vicinity of the city was ravaged, und the Inhabitants
thrown into consternation, by alum of uncommon magnitude and

GUATIMALA. 227
the inhabitants had changed the situation of the
town, they, could not evade the calamities that still
awaited them. In 1558, an epidemic disorder,
attended with _ violent bleeding at the nose, swept
.away great numbers of the inhabitants. In 1565,
a severe shock of earthquake seriously damaged many
of the principal buildings. The earthquakes of 1575,
76, and 77, were not less ruinous. ." On the 27th
of December, 1581, the population was again alarmed
by the volcano, which began to emit fire ; and so
great was the quantity of ashes thrown out and
spread in the air, that the sun was entirely obscured,
and artificial light was necessary in the city at
mid-day. Processions were formed to implore the
Divine intercession ; people confessed themselves aloud
in the streets, being persuaded they were on the point
of suffering some awful visitation of Providence. A
northerly wind, however, at last relieved them from
their fears, by dispersing the ashes towards the Pacific
Ocean, and again allowing them to view the. splendour
of the sun. On the J4th of January, 1582, the
mountain vomited fire with great force for twenty-
four hours successively.
" The years 1585 and 6 were dreadful in the ex
treme. On January 16, of the former, earthquakes
were felt, and they continued through that and the
ferocity," (probably the puma, or miztli, is meant,) " which
descended from the forests on the Volcan de Agua, and committed
great devastations among the herds. A reward of 25 gold dollars,
or 100 bushels of wheat, was offered by the town council to any
person that could kill it; but the animal escaped even from a
general hunting-party ofthe whole' city, with Alvarado at the head
of it. After five or six months' continual depredations, he was
killed by a herdsman, who received the promised reward." In
February 153G, afire, originating in a blacksmith's shop, destroyed
a great number of houses, in consequence of which forges were
prohibited within the city.

228 GUATIMALA.
following year so frequently, that not an interval of
eight days elapsed, during the whole period, without a
shock more or less violent. Fire issued incessantly,
for months together, from the mountain, and greatly
increased the general consternation. The most dis
astrous of these eruptions took place on the 23d Dec.,
1586, when the major part of the city again became a
heap of ruins, burying under them many of the
unfortunate inhabitants ; the earth shook with such
violence, that the tops of the high ridges were torn
off, and deep chaSms formed in various parts of the
level ground.
" In 1601, a pestilential distemper carried off great
numbers. It raged with so much malignity, that
three days generally terminated the existence of such
as were affected by it. In 1607, fresh shocks of earth
quakes were felt, causing great damage to several
of the buildings, and killing many people. These
terrible visitations did not return again until the year
1640. In 1620, a fiery meteor appeared, and filled
the inhabitants with terror and dismay, from their
ignorance of the nature of such phenomena : similar
appearances at the present day, as philosophy is better
understood, would excite only admiration. Meteors
of the same description appeared on the 14th April,
1649; the 23d March, 1680; the 20th January,
1681; in January 1688; and on the 18th of Sep
tember, 1691.
" In the month of January 1623, the volcano was
observed to be again in action; it threw out much
flame and thick smoke, accompanied by violent and
loud reports, to the great terror of the inhabitants,
but fortunately without injury.
" On the 18th of February, 1651, about one o'elock,
afternoon, a most extraordinary subterranean noise

GUATIMALA. 229
was heard, and immediately followed by three violent
shocks, at very short intervals from each other, which
threw down many buildings, and damaged others;
the tiles from the roofs of the houses were dispersed
in all directions, like light straws by a gust of wind ;
the bells of the churches were rung by the vibrations ;
masses of rock were detached from the mountains ;
and even the wild beasts were so terrified, that, losing
their natural instinct, they quitted their retreats, and
sought shelter from the habitations of men. Among
these, a lion of great size and fierceness entered the
city, on the southern side, and advanced into the
middle of it; he tore down a paper fixed against
one of the consistorial houses, and retreated by
the streets on the north side. These shocks were
repeated frequently, until the 13th of April.
" Very few years passed in which this devoted
place did not experience the horrors of these exter
minating phenomena ; for, enumerating only such as
caused serious damage since 1651, the worst were
those in March 1679 ; 22d July, 1681 ; May 1683 ;
August 1684 ; September and October 1687 ; and the
12th of February, 1 689, which, a writer of that period
asserts, was even more disastrous than the one in 1651,
" The year 1686 brought with it another dreadful
epidemic, which, in three months, swept away a
tenth part of the inhabitants. Some of them died
suddenly ; others expired under the most acute pains
of the head, breast, and bowels. No remedy was. dis
covered that could check its destructive progress,
although many of the deceased were opened, to en
deavour, by that means, to come at the cause of the
disorder. So great was the number of the infected,
that there was not a sufficient number of priests to
administer to them the religious rites. The bells

230 GUATIMALA.
were no longer tolled for the dead individually, and the
corpses were buried, en masse, in a common grave.
From the capital, the pestilence spread to the neigh
bouring villages, and thence to the more remote
ones, causing dreadful havoc, particularly among the
most robust of the inhabitants."
" Pursuing this narrative of misfortunes, the next
in succession happened on the 1st of February, 1705 ;
when the mountain again disgorged ashes and thick
smoke in such abundance, that the sun was entirely
obscured ; and the Guatimaltecans, like the ancient
Egyptians, were enveloped in impenetrable darkness
at noon-day, which continued for several hours. In
1710, a violent eruption of smoke and ignited stones
took place ; but no serious injury was sustained.
The year , 1717 was memorable : on the night of
August 27th, the mountain began to emit flames,
attended by a continued subterranean rumbling noise.
On the night of the 28th, the eruption increased to
great violence, and very much alarmed the inhabitants.
The images- of saints were carried in procession,
public prayers were put up, day after day; but the
* The author makes no mention of the manner in which
this epidemic terminated ; but, says his Translator, " religious
ingenuity was not tardy in producing a miracle to remove so
dreadful a scourge. The inhabitants being grievously alarmed
at the frightful havoc among them, resolved upon the expedient of
addressing public prayers to the Virgin for her interference ; they
carried the image that is worshipped in the village of Ahnolonga,
thence to the church of Calvary, in the city, in solemn procession.
The rogation continued three days ; on the last day, about two in
the afternoon, the face of the sacred effigy was perceived to be in
a profuse perspiration for a long time : this prodigy was imme
diately certified officially by a couple of notaries who were present.
In the evening, the image was restored to the village with becoming
solemnity, and from that day the pestilence ceased ; no more
persons were infected, and those who were sick recovered imme
diately."

GUATIMALA. 231
terrifying eruption still continued, and was followed
by frequent shocks, at intervals, for more than four
months. At last, on the night of September 29th,
the fate of Guatimala appeared to be decided, and
inevitable destruction seemed to be at hand. Great
was the ruin among the public edifices ; many of
the houses were thrown down, and nearly all that
remained were dreadfully injured ; but the greatest
devastation was seen in the churches. The inhabi
tants, from what they actually saw, and front what
their terrors suggested to them, expected the total
subversion of the place ; and nearly all sought refuge
in the villages adjacent. After this disaster, they
solicited permission of the Government to remove to
any other spot that might be judged less exposed to
the effects : of the volcano ; but, by the time the
council of the Indies transmitted a license for the
removal, they had recovered from the panic, returned
to their dilapidated. dwellings, had repaired a great
part of the city, and no longer thought of making the
transfer. " In 1732, during the month of May, the volcano
once more seemed to threaten fresh disasters, but
nothing more than an eruption of flame, that con
tinued many days, then took place. In 1733, the
city suffered very grievously from the small-pox,
which, in one month, swept away 1,500 persons.
This misfortune was followed, in June 1736, by a
violent tempest, that threw down several houses, and
many persons were buried under the. ruins.
" On the 27th August, 1737, the mountain was
again in commotion, and discharged flames and smoke
for some days successively ; numerous small craters,
that emitted both fire and smoke, opened on the sides
of it ; and, on the 24th of September, smart shocks of
p2

232 GUATIMALA.
earthquake took place, but fortunately without causing
injury. On September 21, 1749, another violent
tempest began, and continued for three days ; it was
attended with an incessant heavy rain : the torrents of
water that descended from the surrounding mountains
caused much damage in the villages on the plain
below. On the 4th of March, 1751, two very severe
shocks were felt ; the first about eight o'clock in the
morning, and the other at two in the afternoon :
much injury was done by them, chiefly to the
churches. '* On the 8th of October, 1762, a heavy rain began,
and lasted until the morning of the 9th ; by which
the rivers were so increased, that great part of the
country was inundated: on this occasion the large
village of Petapa was destroyed, and the division
of the city called the Barrio de los Remedios was laid
under water.
" The year 1773 was the most melancholy epoch in
the annals of this metropolis ; it was then destroyed,
and, as the capital, rose no more from its ruins.
Since the year 1751, there had been no considerable
misfortune sustained ; for although, in 1757, there
had been the shock, distinguished by the natives
as the earthquake of St. Francis, and, in 1765, that
of the Holy Trinity, which spread devastation over
the province of Chiquimula ; and afterward, that
denominated St. Raphael's, which grievously devas
tated the province of Suchiltepeques ; yet, neither of
these extended to the capital with sufficient violence to
cause any extraordinary damage. In the month of
May, some few slight shocks were perceived ; and, on
the 1 1th of June, a very violent one took place. Its
duration was considerable ; many houses and several
churches were much injured : during the whole of

GUATIMALA. 233
the night, the shocks were repeated at short inter
vals, and, for some days afterward, with less fre
quency. About four o'clock, on the afternoon of July
29th, a tremendous vibration was felt, and shortly after
began the dreadful convulsion that decided the fate of
the unfortunate city. It is difficult, even for those
who were witnesses of this terrible catastrophe, to
describe its duration, or the variety of its undulation,
so entirely did terror and the apprehension of imme
diate annihilation, absorb all powers of reflection.
For several days these shocks continued, and some
times in such quick succession, that many took place
in the short space of fifteen minutes. On the 7th
September, there was another, which threw down
most of the buildings that were damaged on the 29th
of July ; and, on the 13th December, one still more
violent terminated the work of destruction. To this
memorable calamity succeeded a schism among the
inhabitants, that caused many disagreeable dissen
sions. Two parties were formed; the one, terrified by
the recent chastisement of Providence, and bearing in
mind the miseries that had been so often endured
from similar visitations, was desirous of establishing
the city anew, in a situation further away from
the mountain, and less exposed to such troubles. The
other, argiuing from constant experience, that there
was scarcely a district throughout the kingdom which
was not, at times, subject to the same inconvenience,
contended that it would be better to rebuild the city
on its present site, than to abandon the delightful
climate, the fertile soil, excellent water, and the
thousand other advantages they enjoyed in it; and
that the very ruins of their former dwellings would
furnish part of the materials for reconstructing them.
The peoplchacLnot well recovered from the consterna-

234 GUATIMALA.
tion inflicted by the events of the fatal 29th of July,'
when a meeting was convoked, for the purpose of col-
lecting the sense of the inhabitants on the subject
of the removal. This assembly took place on the 4th
of August ; the governor presided, and it was attended
by the archbishop, and all the persons of consequence
who remained on the spot. In this meeting it was
determined that all the public authorities should remove,
provisionally, to the little village of La Hermita, until
the valleys of Jalapa and Las Vacas could be surveyed,
and until the king's pleasure could be ascertained
on the subject. A member of the audiencia, two
prebends of the cathedral, a regidor, and one of the
principal inhabitants, were deputed to examine the
two valleys. On the 6th of September, the governor
and all the tribunals withdrew to La Hermita. The
surveys of the just-mentioned places being completed,
the inhabitants were again convoked to decide upon
the transfer. This congress was held in the tem
porary capital, and lasted from the 12th until the
16th of January, 1774 : the report of the commis
sioners was read, and, by a plurality of votes, it
was resolved to make a formal translation of the city
of Guatimala to the valley of Las Vacas."
Matters were in this state, when the new fiscal of
the royal audiencia, Don Jose Sistue, arrived at
Guatimala, and once more agitated the question,
whether the plain of La Virgen (in Mixco) would not
be preferable to the plain of El Rodeo (in Las Vacas)
for the capital. In consequence of a fresh survey, the
former edict was now revoked, and a new decree
directed the removal of the city to the plain of La
Virgen. The royal assent was given to this measure
on the 21st of July, 1775, and a decree of the 21st of
September following, granted the whole revenue

GUATIMALA. 235
arising from the customs for the ensuing ten years,
towards the expenses of erecting the new city. The
ayuntamiento were in due form installed in the new
situation on the 1st of January, 1776 ; the university
of San Carlos removed thither in November 1777 ; on
the 22d of that month, divine service was performed
for the first time in the temporary cathedral ; and in
succession, the several parishes, convents, and churches
were transferred as fast as circumstances would
permit, a proclamation having been issued in Old
Guatimala on the 29th of July, 1777, commanding
the population to remove to the new city, within
a year, and totally abandon the remains of the
old one.
- " Some private individuals," continues Juarros,
'' many artisans, and a great part of the people, sup
posing, and, as it seems, not without reason, that the
royal pleasure for removing the capital was intended
as a matter of favour to the whole community, but not
to force them to abandon the dwellings and con-
veniencies they possessed in Old Guatimala, and seek
habitations in the new capital, expected to remain in
the quiet enjoyment of their homes. The governors
of the kingdom put a very different construction upon
the royal edict, and considered the translation of the
capital, not as a matter of favour, but as a mandate
for the total abandonment of the old city ; they were
therefore inflexible in forcing the inhabitants to quit
the proscribed soil. These, though grieved at resign
ing all they possessed in their old domicile, were
unwilling to have it supposed they would oppose the
royal pleasure, and reluctantly quitted their abodes :
some repaired to the new city, others retired to
the neighbouring villages, so that on the 30th of
June, 1779, Old Guatimala, in compliance with-

236 GUATIMALA.
the governor's positive orders, from being the busy
haunt of men, was transformed into a dreary solitude.
" The cruel and tyrannical proclamation issued by
Don Matias de Galvez, president of the royal
audiencia, in the month of June 1779, for the deser.
tion of Old Guatimala, deserves to be made generally
known. He commanded that every inhabitant should
quit the city within a prescribed (very small) number
of days ; and that from the date of the proclamation,
no artificer should there exercise his trade, without
being liable to very severe penalties. Until the pub
lication of this order, it was a thing unheard of
in. any civilised country, that a man should be pro-
hibited from supporting his family by the honest
labour of his hands, at his settled abode. In con
sequence, many of these poor people were forced to the
hard necessity of quitting the place, or of committing
robberies to afford sustenance to those dependant
upon them; yet, notwithstanding the monstrous
severity of the mandate, it was allowed to have its
full effect."
Caprice, intrigue, and interested motives, had pro
bably some share in dictating the transfer of the
capital, and the arbitrary policy by which it was
enforced. The old city, though greatly injured by
the earthquake of 1773, " was not so generally
dilapidated," says our Historian, " as it appeared to
the terrified, or, it may perhaps be said, the interested
imaginations of architects, engineers, and notaries.
Great damage was certainly done in some quarters,
particularly in those on elevated situations, as La
Candelaria, San Domingo, Chipilapa, and part of San
Sebastian. In the centre of the city, some houses
were destroyed, but more remained unhurt, or
slightly injured, as they sufficiently shew at this day s

GUATIMALA. 237
in the lower quarters of San Francisco, Tortuguero,
Chajon, and others, the effect upon the buildings was
very slight. As to the most sumptuous buildings and
public works, viz. the cathedral and other churches,
the palaces and convents, it would have been necessary
for the most part to pull them down entirely. On
the other hand, as it was a well-known fact, that,
since the Spaniards first settled in that valley, either
at Tzacualpa or Panchoi, fifty years had never
elapsed without the city's suffering some injury, it ap
peared more desirable to remove the capital once more,
although at much greater expense, than to rebuild it
in the same situation. The latter alternative would
have been much easier and less costly, but it would
have been labouring upon a calculation of only thirty
or forty years' duration of the work."
The inhabitants had not removed from the old city,
when a malignant fever broke out, which raged till
the month of May 1774, " making a horrible addition
to the already lengthened list of mortality. The
major part of the inhabitants settled in the new city ',
but, by a change of soil, they could not evade the
penalty of misfortune, suffering, and tribulation, in
flicted upon the human race : these followed them to
their new domicile, where they experienced severe
injury and much distress from dreadful storms of rain
and hail, in which many persons were killed by light
ning. Since the ruin of Old Guatimala, the greatest
suffering of the new city was from the small-pox, in
1780, which extended nearly all over the kingdom.
This distemper was of so malignant a character, that,
In a few days, great numbers fell victims to it. That
the infected might not die without the administration
of the usual sacraments, the-. iaticum was carried from
all the parish churches, and also from those of the

238 guatimala:
regular religious orders. The defunct were not per
mitted to be interred in the churches, both on account
of the numbers,' and because serious injury might be
done to the survivors, from the decomposition of bodies
in a state of such virulent contagion : three cemeteries
without the city were, therefore, consecrated for their
sepultu_e. The zealous devotion of the Ayuntamiento
on this melancholy occasion, was honourable in the
extreme. Every effort was made to give assistance to
the poor. A regidor took charge of each quarter of
the city ; and one was always in attendance at the
hospital established out of it, for the reception of the
variolous patients. Inoculation was now, for the first
time, practised in Guatimala, with the most complete
success ; for, although so many perished of the con
tagion, scarcely one of those who were inoculated
died." The proscribed city of Old Guatimala remained for
some time in a state of complete desertion. At length,
many of its former occupants covertly resumed their
old abodes, and it has by degrees again become peopled.
In the year 1799, it was invested with the privileges
of a town. Juarros states the population at upwards
of 8,000 souls, among' whom are some Spaniards, but
the greater part are natives (ladinos).
NEW GUATIMALA.
The new city received, by royal appointment, the
name of La Nueva Guatimala de la Asuncion, it being
within the curacy of the hermitage of La Asuncion de
Nuestra Senora. Possibly, the inefficiency of the
sainted patrons of the old city, Saint James and Saint
Cecilia, might be an inducement to consecrate the new
settlement to the Virgin under one of her many forms

GUATIMALA. 239
of invocation. The spacious plain of La Virgen, in
which it stands, forming part of the valley of Mixco,
is five leagues in diameter. It is in a delightful
climate : the inhabitants scarcely know a change of
temperature. The plain is watered by several small
rivers and lakes, which greatly conduce to its fertility ;
and although the new city is not surrounded with so
many villages as Old Guatimala, yet, the markets are
equally well supplied with provisions of every descrip
tion from the same quarters, and present a choice of
vegetables, fruit, flowers, poultry, game, and other
articles not often surpassed in any region. " The
city forms a square about fifteen manzanas each way ;
it is divided into four quarters, and the quarters into
two barrios or wards, each superintended by its pecu
liar alcalde, elected annually from the residents, and
exercising his jurisdiction under the control of the
judge of the quarter, who is always a minister of the
royal audiencia. For the administration of spiritual
concerns, the city is divided into three parishes, each
extending its whole length from east to west, and em
bracing a third part of it from north to south ; the
centre is called the parish of the Sanctuary of the
Cathedral ; the northern side, St. Sebastian's ; and
the southern, Los Remedios. The streets, which
cross each other at right angles, are twelve yards
-broad, the greater part of them paved : the houses,
although rather low, to mitigate the violence of future
•earthquakes, are built in a good style, very commo
dious, and judiciously decorated, nearly all of them
enjoying the advantage of kitchen and pleasure gar
dens, with two, three, and even more reservoirs of
water. The great square is a rectangle 150 yards
each way, paved all over, and having a colonnade on
each side. . The eastern . side presents the grand en-

240 GUATIMALA.
trance to the cathedral, with the archiepiscopal palace
on the right, and the college de Infantes on the left ;
on the opposite side stand the royal palace, the hall of
the audiencia, and offices belonging to that tribunal,
the chamber of accounts, the treasury, and the mint ;
on the north side are the houses of the corporation;
prisons, markets, public granary, &c. ; and on the
south side, the custom-house, and the marquezado de
Aizinena, &c. In the middle there is a large stone
fountain of very superior workmanship, supplied with
water, brought by means of pipes from the mountains
to the south-east, upwards of two leagues distant ;
from the same source, twelve public reservoirs in dif
ferent places and streets, besides many belonging to
the convents and private houses, derive their supplies.
This aqueduct is in some places carried over valleys,
upon an extensive range of arches, and in others,
through hills, by excavations, that have cost immense
labour to complete. From the south-west, there has
been another stream of water brought into the city by
similar means, and although from a greater distance,
it has, from the nature of the country through which
it passes, been effected with much less difficulty. The
cathedral is small, but in a fine style of architecture,
and not yet completed : the pedestals and capitals of
the columns, the vaultings of the chapels, and many
other parts of it, are executed in a manner that en
titles them to the admiration of a scientific observer.
Many other churches and convents are still in a pro
gressive state; and, except the Jesuits' college with
its dependencies, and eleven of the minor churches,
are intended to be similar to those already mentioned in
Old Guatimala. But besides those spoken of at the
former place, there are, the college of Seises, the
female seminary called the Visitation, the Hermitage

GUATIMALA. 241
del Carmen, situated on the summit of a hill near the
city, and that of Our Lady of Guadalupe. On the
north-east, adjoining the city, there is an extensive
suburb, divided into two quarters and four barrios,
over which the two ordinary alcaldes are the presiding
magistrates : the parish of La Candelaria, and the
college of the Visitation," are in this division, the
streets of which are crooked and irregularly built."
The population of the city, according to the census
of 1795, amounted to 24,434 persons, including many
families descended from the most illustrious houses of
Old Spain. Since that period, the number of inha
bitants has greatly increased, and is supposed now to
exceed 30,000. The Guatimaltecans are characterised
by Juarros as, for the most part, docile, humane,
courteous, liberal, affable to strangers, and inclined to
piety, but too generally chargeable with pusillanimity
and indolence. " They possess an aptness for the
arts, which is demonstrated by the great number of
handicraftsmen in all trades, among whom there have
been produced artisans of superior talents ; but those
who acquire most celebrity are, the silversmiths,
sculptors, and musicians. The productions of the
sculptors are eagerly sought after, not only in this
country, but in Mexico ; and even some that have been
carried to Europe, have been highly esteemed by con
noisseurs. The class of weavers is numerous, and their
looms produce fine muslins and gauzes, calicoes, and
common cottons that are used in general wear by the poor
people of the country. The potters are also a numerous
tribe, who furnish earthenware and china sufficient
for all the provinces : in the manufacture of some
articles they excel so much, as to turn them out of
hand but little inferior to the porcelain of Germany.
Among the females, there are excellent embroiderers,

242 GUATIMALA.
mantua- makers, and florists, who make artificial
flowers that vie with the productions of nature. Great
numbers of females are employed in the manufacture of
a species of cigars, called tuza, that are peculiar to this
country ; others spin cotton-yarn of every degree of
fineness." In the year 1795, a society was instituted, under
the title of the Royal Economical Society of Friends
of the Kingdom, with the sanction of the Government,
which, during the short time that it was suffered to
exist, reflected high credit on its promoters. It had
for its design, to ascertain the most effectual means of
encouraging agriculture and the arts, and of advancing
the public prosperity of the kingdom. The first ob
ject to which the members turned their attention was,
the introduction of spinning-wheels ; and rewards
were offered to females who should produce the best
specimens of thread. With the view to encourage
the cultivation of cocoa and cotton to a greater extent,
premiums were next offered to the persons who should
plant the greatest number of trees. To excite emula
tion among the weavers, prizes were assigned to those
who presented the finest gauzes and muslins. To
facilitate the progress of the arts, a school of drawing
was opened in March 1797, in which thirty-two young
men were gratuitously instructed for two hours (from
seven till nine) every evening, and prizes were
awarded once a month for the two best drawings. A
mathematical school was opened in January 1798;
and in January ] 800, a model academy was opened.
The society held a public sitting every half-year, at
which the most distinguished personages of the capital
attended. At these meetings, extracts were read from
the journal of the Society's proceedings, the prizes
were distributed to the successful candidates, and the

GUATIMALA. 243
sitting terminated with a discourse delivered by one
of the associates, t The patriotic zeal of this body
obtained for it a fresh mark of the royal favour by his
majesty's communicating to it, on the 15th of July,
1799, his entire' satisfaction at the operations which
had so powerfully contributed to the public advantage ;
and he desired that the royal audiencia should propose
to him such measures as they might think expedient
to ensure its continuance. With these flattering pro
spects of success, on the 14th of July, 1800, contrary
to all expectation, and to the astonishment of every
person, a royal order was received, by which its fur
ther meetings and ulterior progress were prohibited,
without vouchsafing any reasons for a determination
so extraordinary and apparently injurious." This
flagrant act of despotic authority illustrates in a strik
ing mainier, the odious policy pursued by the Spanish
Government towards the Colonies ; nor does it leave
any room for surprise, that the Guatimaltecans, not
less than the Mexican citizens, should have been im
patient of a-yoke so galling.
From the foundation of the university to the year
1778, the lectures were delivered according to the old
scholastic method. In that year, the first course of
experimental philosophy was begun. -In October 1792,
examinations in geometry took place for the first time,
which were repeated in May 1795. In 1789, 1790,
and 1794, there were examinations in anatomy, for
which purpose models were introduced, which are still
preserved. " In March 1798, four young men were
examined in surgery, being the first who had gra
duated in that faculty. ; and in July 1799, there were
examinations in philosophy according to the Socratic
method." * Attached to the university are twelve
* Juarros, pp. 138—144.

244 GUATIMALA.
professorships and a public library. In 1793, was
instituted, by royal permission, the Protomedicato, or
college of physicians, composed of a president, two
examiners, and a fiscal. The Economical Society,
before its arbitrary suppression, laid the basis of a
royal cabinet of natural history. Besides these insti
tutions, Juarros enumerates three schools for the
gratuitous instruction of youth in the elementary
branches of knowledge, and two classes of Latin
grammar. It remains for future travellers to tell us,
what further progress science and literature have
made in the capital during the last five and twenty
years, and what, besides changing its form of govern
ment, the Revolution has effected for Guatimala.
Among the other chief places in the alcaldia-mayor
of Sacatepec, we have already mentioned Almolonga,
for some time the residence of the alcalde-mayor, and
one of the most beautiful villages of the kingdom.
It contains a splendid parochial church, with an image
of the Virgin that is held in high repute, and a Fran.
ciscan convent. The Indian inhabitants claim the
privileges of nobility, as being descended from the
Mexicans who accompanied Alvarado at the conquest.
Their principal employment is supplying the capital
with fruit, which they procure from the more distant
villages. The climate is cold. San Juan Sacatepec
was also for some time the head town of the alcaldia ;
it is now the most populous village in the province,
containing upwards of 6,000 inhabitants, and is de
scribed as a very handsome place. The air is salu
brious, the climate temperate, the soil extremely
fertile, and the market well supplied-; the inhabitants
are chiefly employed in agriculture and sugar manu
factories. San Juan Amatitan, situated in the vicinity

GUATIMALA. 245
of the lake of that name, is a favourite watering-
place with the citizens of Guatimala. It is situated
in a plain surrounded by very high mountains, which
give it, Juarros says, a somewhat melancholy aspect ;
but, being in the vicinity of the lake Amatitan, and
having a beautiful river flowing on the eastern side of
it, the fine climate and its contiguity to the capital,
occasion it to be very much frequented for the purpose
of drinking the waters of the river, which is a specific
hi many cases ; others retire thither to take the baths,
and others again for their recreation. The streets
are broad and straight, and the houses are commo
dious. The church contains a famous effigy of the
infant Saviour, which was originally placed in a little
hermitage at Belen, a village three leagues distant ;
but the archbishop, to prevent the mischiefs occa
sioned by large meetings in retired places, ordered
it, in 1789, to be transferred to the church of San
Juan, whither a vast concourse of worshippers an
nually repair on the first Sunday in May. The inha
bitants employ themselves in fishing for moharra,
crabs, and cray-ftsh in the lake, which they dispose of
in Guatimala ; in' raising melons and water-melons
for the same market ; and in the manufacture of
baskets and mats. The inhabitants of Villa Nueva
de San Miguel in like manner subsist by fishing on
the lake, and raising bananas for the capital. Villa
Nueva de Petapa is a well-built village, situated in a
delightful plain, four leagues from the metropolis.
There are some very good houses, a handsome church,
and an oratory ; the streets intersect each other at
right angles, and there is a spacious plaza. The in
habitants cultivate maize. San Christoval de Ama
titan, about three leagues from San Juan Amatitan,
is celebrated for a species of lizard found there, which
is believed to be a cure ibr cancers ; the Indians are

246 GUATIMALA.
said to have used this medicine from the earliest pe
riods. San Domingo Mixco, situated on the declivity
pf a mountain, and commanding a view over the
extensive valley of Mixco, is famed for its mineral
spring ; the inhabitants are carriers and potters; and
cultivate maize. Santa Catalina Pinula stands at the
foot of the ridge of mountains called Canales, two
leagues S.E. of Guatimala. In this place is a seminary
for the education of young females, — an establish
ment not to be found in any other village. The insti
tution has obtained the royal sanction : the individuals
on the establishment maintain themselves by the pro
duce of their gardens and their bee-hives. At Nu
estra Senora de la Asuncion Jocotenango, a village
contiguous to Old Guatimala, is held an annual fair
for horses, mules, and merchandise, which is numer
ously attended. La Ermita de la Asuncion, the mo
ther-church of that which was subsequently built in
the plain of La Virgen, is a small place situated in the
valley of Las Vacas; on the river of the same name.
Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, is a modern village,
built for the gardeners who supply the market of
the capital: the church was consecrated so lately as
1803. In the alcaldia-mayor of Chimaltenango, which ex
tends about twenty leagues in length and as many in
breadth, the principal places are : Santa Ana Chim
altenango, the head town, about eleven leagues from
the metropolis; the public sqiiare is very handsome,
having on one side an extensive sheet of water. Tec-
panguatemala,* formerly a residence of the Kachi
quel monarchs. Here was built the second church in
the kingdom. The climate is still colder than that at
* That is, above Guatimala, or. Upper Guatimala ; for such is
said to be the meaning of tecpan. So, Tecpanatillan was a dis
tinct place from Atitlan.

GUATIMALA. 247
Santa Ana, and is favourable to the growth of wheat,
maize, peaches, quinces, apples, pears, &c. ; the neigh*.
bourhood abounds also with timber, which is sent to
Guatimala in planks. The inhabitants, who exceed
3,000, have a high character for industry and other
estimable qualities. Patzum contains 5,000 inhabi
tants of the Kachiquel nation, who are very industri
ously occupied in similar pursuits ; and the climate is
much the same as at Tecpanguatemala. Patzizia is
a large village, containing not fewer than 5,000 inha
bitants, all labourers ; the climate is cold and humid.
San Andres Itzapa contains about 1,500 persons, who
raise wheat, maize, pulse, and vegetables, and feed
large herds of hogs ; the climate is cold, but . dry.
Here is held a large annual fair on the eve of Saint
Andrew, the patron saint. San Sebastian del Texar
is placed by Juarros in the alcaldia of Sacatepec,
although within the valley of Chimaltenango : it is
remarkable only for a medicinal spring. San Martin
Xilopetec stands in the mildest climate of the valley,
where the sugar-cane is cultivated with success, afford
ing full employment to several manufactories; the
population is considerable. San Antonio Nexapa,
San Juan Alotenango, and San Miguel Milpa Duenas,
are also heads of curacies within this province.
That which first claims the traveller's notice among
the natural curiosities of the valley of Guatimala, is
the gigantic Volcan de Agua (water-volcano), which
is thus described by Juarros. " This mountain is of a
conical figure ; its base extends over nearly all the
western part ofthe valley of Guatimala. On the side
towards the city, the ascent by the road from the base
to the summit, is three leagues and a half ; and from
the side towards Alotenango, it is more than four
leagues. The circumference at the bottom is eighteen
PART IV. Q

248 GUATIMALA.
leagues. Cultivation is confined to the lowei* parts of
the mountain ; the middle region is covered with
thick forests ; and during great part of the summer,
the city is supplied with snow from the upper region.
On its skirts are numerous mineral and medicinal
springs, and many Indian villages, besides a great
number of detached houses and farms. On the sum
mit is a concave space, resembling a crater, measuring
about 140 yards by 120. From the edge of this crater,
a most beautiful prospect presents itself in every direc
tion;^ — Old Guatimala, with its fertile, fields and
numerous farms, the village and lake of Amatitan,
with all the surrounding country, can be distinctly
seen. . Looking westward, the provinces of Suchiltepec
and Soconusco, and even the plains of Chiapa may be
discovered ; to the eastward, the provinces of Zonzo
nate, Santana Grande, and San Salvador, with the
lake of Gilopango, may be distinguished ; on the north
and south, .the view is bounded by the two oceans."
The mountain, seen from the plains, lias a magnificent
appearance in every direction : its conical figure, the
great variety of colour on its surface, the various culti
vation and gardens which adorn the base, its belt of
forests, and its snowy summit,* give it a highly pic
turesque as well as majestic character. Although
there can be little doubt of its being an extinct
volcano, there exists no tradition of its having ever
emitted fire. The eruption of 1541 consisted merely
* In another part of his work, Juarros describes this mountain
as covered to the summit with trees that always retain their ver
dure ; yet, it is stated above, that it supplies the city during great
part of the summer with snow. He affirms, moreover, that it is
the most lofty in the kingdom. The fact we apprehend to be,
that it loses its snow at certain seasons of the year ; and if so, its
elevation does not reach the region of perpetual snow.

GUATIMALA. 249
of an immense torrent of water, carrying with it im
mense stones, and, if Father Remesal may be believed,
the crown of the mountain itself.* Humboldt sup
poses that subterraneous water had no small share in
producing the stupendous phenomenon of Jorullo, but
that volcano emitted flames and discharged lava.
Old Guatimala is to the northward of this moun
tain, which stands between two volcanoes, the Volcan
de Pacaya on the east, and the Volcan de Fuego on
the west. From each of these, there have been violent
eruptions from time immemorial. The most remark
able on record were, that of July 11, 1775, from
Pacaya, and those of the years 1623, 1705, 1710, and
1717, from the Volcan de Fuego. There happened
one as recently as the close of the eighteenth century,
but, as it was unattended with any serious conse
quences, it excited little attention, although it lasted
several days. The waters of a spring on the side of
Alotenango were observed to have become heated,
during tHe eruption, to such a degree, that cattle were
unable to pass through the rivulet running from it.
The Volcan de Fuego is included in the alcaldia of
Chimaltenango. At its base, near the village of San
Andres, there is a thermal spring, the water of which
is very hot, and is held in great repute for its medicinal
virtue.: it is called Saint Andrew's Bath. At a short
distance is another warm spring, that emits a strong
sulphureous smell, and is deemed an efficacious remedy
for cutaneous complaints. The general figure of this
mountain is conical, but its summit is divided into
three points, in the westernmost of which may be
seen several openings, which frequently emit flames,
* Probably, an accumulation of snow on the summit, which
might add to the apparent height of the mountain.

250 GUATIMALA.
pumice-stones, sand, and smoke. The Volcan de Pa.
caya stands to the eastward of Old Guatimala, but
southward of the present capital, and three leagues
from Amatitan. This mountain also has three dis
tinct peaks. It is connected with a chain of eleva
tions extending to a great distance. The surrounding
country is thickly covered with the accumulation of
volcanic matter that has been formed by its numerous
eruptions. Fuentes says, that, in his time, there was
scarcely a day throughout the year, in which one or
other of its lofty peaks did not emit flames. In the
year 1664, " such immense quantities of flames were
vomited forth With the most appalling explosions,
that, during the night, the city of Old Guatimala, at
the distance of seven leagues, was illuminated by a
light not inferior to that of mid-day ; and the terror
produced by the vibrations of the earth was so great,
that the inhabitants were afraid to trust themselves
within their houses during the three days of its con
tinuance. Similar events occurred in 1668, 1671, and
1677 ; tut there are no records of any others after the
time of Fuentes, until that which took place on the
11th of July, 1775, when, at day-break, without any
previous noise, or any perceptible oscillation of the
earth, a dense cloud of smoke was observed from Old
Guatimala* in a south-west direction, which rose
from behind the range of mountains that concealed the
volcano from thp view. To discover the flames, it was
necessary to go to the village of Santa Maria de
Jesus, whence could be distinguished the aperture
through which they burst. From this arose a large
column of thick smoke, and vast quantities of burning

* Where the writer, Don Domingo Juarros, was resident at the
time.

GUATIMALA. 251
stones that fell again into the crater. Sand was also
thrown out in such abundance, that, being carried by
the wind, it fell so copiously in Old Guatimala as to
obscure the light of the sun, and thickly cover the
ground. The wind having changed, the sand was
carried in a southerly direction as far as the provinces
of Escuintla and Suchiltepec. It was remarked on
this occasion, that the eruption was not from either of
the summits, but from the region where the mountain
divides into three peaks."
The lake of Amatitan will claim the attention of
the scientific traveller. Its shores are said to produce
salt, like those of the lake of Tezcuco,* in which the
inhabitants carry on a considerable trade ; there are
also several warm springs on its borders, which are
found very beneficial in the case of glandular swellings
in the throat, to which the females of this cohntry
are subject. In all probability, the waters of the lake
will be found impregnated with the muriate and car
bonate of soda, as well as some kind of sulphate. It
is about three leagues in length, and one in breadth at
its widest part ; its depth is not specified. It fur
nishes an inexhaustible supply of fish, but there are
none of the larger kinds : they consist of the moharra,
a fish about a foot in length, and of excellent flavour ;.
the pepesca, which does not exceed three inches in
length, but is reckoned a delicacy; crabs and cray
fish ; and a species called pescaditos.
The valley of Las Vacas -f is watered, on its eastern
* See vol. i. pp. 266, 315.
f This valley received its name (the Cows) from being the place
where cattle were first introduced into the kingdom by one of the'
companions of Alvarado, from the island of Cuba. They multi
plied here so fast, that they were soon dispersed over all parts of
the country. .2

252 GUATIMALA.
side, by the river Chorrera, which deserves notice on
account of the supposed petrifying quality of its waters.
" If the root or branch Of a tree fall so that a part of it
lies in the water, the portion which is immersed, becomes
petrified into a substance of a shining white or grey
colour, but the other part remains in its natural state ;
and it is observed, that where the current is rapid, the
transformation is more speedily effected than in places
where the stream is slow." The explanation of this
phenomenon is' not very difficult. The waters are
highly impregnated with calcareous matter, which,
when the stream is slow, is precipitated, but is held in
solution where the current is rapid, and forms a de-
posite on whatever obstructs the course of the stream.
Juarros adds, that " the substance thus transformed
always preserves its natural porosity and fibrous tex
ture." This can hardly be true with regard to the
part covered with the incrustation ; but it is .suffi
ciently evident, that the waters have, properly speak
ing, no petrifying quality.*
In the valley of Petapa, some human bones of
gigantic size are said to have been discovered, and
among them, Fuentes says, " a tooth as large as a
man's two fists !" Possibly, some fossil animal remains
may be found here. In the valley of Sacatepec, near
the village of San Pedro, " a mine of rubies (and sil
ver) was accidentally discovered in the year 1681,"
by the curate of the village. The account given of
the circumstance by the above-mentioned Historian,
is as follows : "As the father was amusing himself
one afternoon, he directed his walk towards a pass in
the mountain, through which ran a clear rivulet. On
• See, for an account of the petrescent waters of Laara and the
petrified beach of Selinty, Mod. Thav. Syria, {;c. vol. ii. pp. 251,
253, _ffl>.

GUATIMALA. 253
the side of the bed of this river, he observed a vein of
white clay, interspersed with red and black patches.
Being attracted by the variety and brilliance of the
colours, and the reflection of small sparkling sub
stances, he took up a part of the clay, which he car
ried to Guatimala, and gave to the licentiate, Christo-
val Martin, an intelligent man, conversant in the na
ture of metals ; who, having fused the mass, which
weighed three pounds, deUvered to the curate, on his
return, a piece of pure silver rather more than half an
ochava (about forty grains) in weight, and seven ru
bies of the size of small beans. A few days after the
discovery, the curate was elected prior of the Domini
can convent of Guatimala, which obliged him to quit
his curacy ; and no more was heard of the mine."
Fuentes states, that he had actually had the silver
and the gems in his hands. Juarros repeats the story
without comment, so that, np to the close of the last
century, no attention appears to have been paid to the
discovery, although there is strong reason to believe
that the calcareous formation which evidently prevails
in this part, will be found richly argentiferous.
Don D. Juarros gives, from the same Historian, an
account of a very remarkable cavern, called the cavern
of Mixco, in the valley of Xilopetec, near where the
ancient village of Mixco stood. " On a small ridge
of land on one side of the ruins of ancient Mixco, is
the entrance to the cavern, about three yards each
way. The portico, formed of clay, is in some parts
entire, and appears to be of the Doric order. Fuentes
says, he inquired of some old Indians, how it had been
contrived to give so great a consistency to the clay ;
and they informed him, it was done by grinding a
quantity of onion-seed, and mixing it in the water

254 GUATIMALA,
with which the clay was tempered. From the en.
trance, a flight of thirty-six stone steps, each of a
single piece, descends to a lofty saloon about 6ixty
yards square. From this chamber the descent con
tinues by another flight, beyond which nothing more
is known, as no person sufficiently courageous, or im
prudent enough to resist the indications of imminent
danger from the tremulous motion of the ground
under foot, has yet advanced more than a few paces.
Descending eighteen steps of this second flight, "there
is, on the right hand, another doorway, forming a
perfect arch'; and having passed this, there are six
steps, in all respects similar to the former, from which
there is a passage about 140 feet in length. Further
than this part, it has not been explored. Many ex
traordinary accounts of it have been fabricated, but
they are such as will not bear repeating."
In this same district (Xilopetec), are other excava
tions not less deserving of attention. " The river
Pancacoya, which rises near the pass of Pasacab,-
descends with great rapidity from a lofty rock, but^
before it reaches the plain, it passes through a conduit
formed in the rock, about a yard and a half wide, and
sufficiently high for a man to pass through with ease.
Where this channel terminates, there is a range of
columns curiously wrought, with capitals and mould
ings ; and a little further on, are several round
cisterns formed in the rock, about a yard and a half in
diameter, and nearly a yard in depth." There is
a tradition, that this part of the river was a washing
place for gold ; and it is supposed, Juarros says, that
the cisterns were excavated for that purpose. This is
highly improbable. All these excavations are doubt
less to be referred to the same period and the

GUATIMALA. 255
same artists, and class with Montezuma's Bath at
Tescosingo,* the Casas de Piedras at Palenque,+ and
the Palace of Mitla in Oaxaca; £ not, perhaps, as
monuments of the same people or era, but as indi
cating a striking analogy in the respective customs
and attainments in civilisation of the Aztec, Zapotec,
and Kachiquel nations, and possibly a common origin.
We must not omit to notice one still more marvel
lous curiosity which is found in these regions,  an
animal which becomes transformed into a vegetable !
Such is the grave statement of the Historian so fre
quently referred to. Near the villages of San Chris-
toval, Amatitan, and Pampichin, he tells us, is found
the green chapuli, a large species of grasshopper,
or locust, about a span long ; at the extremity of its
tail is a sharp curved point like a thorn, which
becomes hard when the animal has attained its full
growth. " If killed in this state, and carefully
opened, a small bunch of seeds, similar to those of the
passion-flower, about an inch long, attached to rami
fying fibres, is found in the intestines : these grains
being sown, will produce a plant like the gourd,
which will bear a fruit resembling small pompions, as
yellow and brilliant as gold ; the seeds of which, sown
again, will bring forth similar fruit, but of much
larger size." Were these seeds to bring forth grass
hoppers, it might be accounted for. It may, indeed,
occur to the reader, that the chapuli must first have
swallowed these seeds ; but Francisco de Fuentes as
sures us, on the unimpeachable testimony of Tomas de
Melgar, a venerable priest, and Don Domingo Juarros
is satisfied of its correctness, that this vegetable spawn
* See vol. i. p. 333. t See p. 157 of the present volume.
X Seep. ISO;

256 GUATIMALA.
is actually produced from the intestines of the insect ;
and the said priest, having sown the seeds, found the
result to accord precisely with the above statement.
We commend the chapuli to the especial attention of
the learned naturalists of Europe.
To the west of the alcaldia-mayor of Chimalte
nango, between Suchiltepec and Escuintla on the
south, and Totonicapan and Vera Paz on the north,
lies the province of

This alcaldia was formed by the union of the two
separate corregimientos of Atitan and Tecpanatitlan,
or Solol_, which are still considered as distinct dis
tricts. It is of small extent, but populous ; lying be
tween lat. 14° 25' and 15° 10' N., and long. 92° 46'
and 93° 46' W. ; the population amounts to 43,000
souls. The district of Solol_, which includes the
eastern part of the province, was included in the
ancient kingdom of Kachiquel. Nuestra Seriora de la
Asuncion de Solola, the head town, was the ancient
Tecpanatitlan, the residence of one of the royal house
of the Kachiquels. It is situated on the summit of an
elevated ridge, in a cold climate, about twenty-eight
leagues from Guatimala. The inhabitants, who
amount to upwards of 5,000, are Indians, chiefly
artisans .and mechanics.
Santa Cruz del Quiche, in this district, is the
modern representative of the once large and opulent
capital of the sovereigns of Quiche, the city of Utatlan.
It is situated on an extensive and very fertile plain, is
moderately populous, and contains a Dominican priory.
Such is all the information which Juarros is able
to communicate respecting the modern village ; but

GUATIMALA. 257
that indefatigable writer, Francisco de Fuentes,
who went to Quiche for the purpose of collecting
information, partly from the antiquities of the place,
and partly from manuscripts," gives the following
description of the ancient city. It stood nearly in the
situation which Santa Cruz now occupies, and the latter
is supposed to have been originally a suburb. The city
was surrounded by a deep ravine, which formed a
natural fosse, leaving only two very narrow roads as
entrances, which were defended by the castle. The
centre of the city was occupied by the royal palace,
which was surrounded by the houses ofthe nobility,
the extremities being inhabited by the plebeians. The
streets were veiy narrow. The alcazar, or palace, in
the opinion of Torquemada, could compete in mag
nificence with that of Montezuma at Mexico, or
that of the Incas at Cuzco. It was constructed of
hewn stone of various colours. The front extended
376 paces from east to west, and it was 728 paces
in depth. There were six principal divisions. The
first contained lodgings for a numerous troop of
lancers, archers, and other troops, constituting the
royal body guard ; the second was assigned to the
princes and relations of the king ; the third, to
the monarch himself; the fourth and fifth were oc
cupied by the queens and royal concubines ; and the
sixth was the residence of the king's daughters and
other females of the blood royal. The third division,
appropriated to the use of the king, contained distinct
suites of apartments for the morning, the evening,
and night. In one of the saloons stood the throne,
under four canopies of feathers.* In this part of the
* The Indians are said to have distinguished" the degrees of
sovereignty among their chiefs by the throne itself. That of
Utatlan, which was the first in rank, was placed under four cano-

258 GUATIMALA.
palace were the treasury, the tribunals of justice, and
the armory, together with gardens, aviaries, and
menageries. The female apartments were of great
extent ; and attached to them were gardens, baths,
and places for breeding geese,* which were kept for
the sole purpose of furnishing feathers for ornamental
furniture. The castle of the Aialaya (watch-tower)
was a remarkable structure, four stories in height.
That of Resguardo (defence — probably the citadel is
meant) was five stories high: it extended 188 paces
in front, and was 230 feet in depth. From this
description, these castles would seem to have re
sembled the Mexican teocallies, and the stories were
possibly ten-aces. It is impossible to gather from this
vague account, what remains yet exirt of the " palaces,
castles, and temples," of this Indian metropolis.
Utatlan, Juarros says, was indisputably the most
magnificent and opulent city, not only of Quiche, but
of the whole kingdom of Guatimala. As such, its
site would especially deserve to be examined by future
travellers. Of the Indians of this district, some
speak the Quich_, and some the Kachiquel dialect.
pies, formed of feathers, each of different colours and of different
sizes, fixed one within the other. The throne of Kachiquel,
or Guatimala, had three canopies ; and that of Atitlan, or Zutugil,
had but two — Juarros, p. 164.
* This is obviously a mistake, chargeable, we suspect, not on
the historian, but his translator. Humboldt says, " The goose is
the only one of the birds of our poultry-yards which is no where to
be found in the Spanish colonies of the New Continent." — (Pol.
Essay, vol. iii. p. 56.) The turkey, called in Mexico, totolin and
huexolotl, is probably meant. Cortes relates, that several thousands
of these birds were fed in the poultry-yards of the castles of Mon
tezuma. They were formerly found wild on the ridge of the Cor
dilleras from Panama to New England. The ancient Mexicans
had also tame ducks, which they annually plucked, as the feathers
were an important article of commerce.

GUATIMALA. 259
The capital of the Zutugil kingdom was Atitlan,
" otherwise called Atziquinixai, which, in the Quiche
dialect, means the eagle's house; a name originat
ing in the practice of their kings, who, when they
took the field, wore, as a distinguishing device, a large
plume of the quetzal's feathers in the form of an
eagle." This extensive city, Juarros says, was in a
position strongly defended by natural bulwarks, among
steep, hanging rocks, on the border q£ the lake of
the same name, which protected it on the south side.
Its site is occupied by the village of Santiago Atilan
(corrupted or softened, apparently, from AtitlaB.),'
the chief place in the district of the same name, which
comprises the western part of the province of Solola.
It stands on the south side of the lake, in a mild and
healthy climate, 28 leagues W.. of Guatimala, and
contains upwards of 2,000 Indian inhabitants. The
village was anciently a mission of the Franciscans,
and one of the earliest founded in the province : the
convent was rebuilt about the middle of the last cen
tury. Atitlan is shorn, however, of all its. ancient
splendour. If there are any remains of the Indian
capital, Juarros does not mention, them.
The lake of Atitan is one of the largest. in Guati
mala, being eight leagues in length from east to west,
and more than four leagues from north to south- It is
entirely surrounded by mountains and rocks of irre
gular farm. " From its margin there is no gradation
of depth, but the banks are precipitous,, and the bot
tom has not been found with a line of SOO fathoms.
Several rivers discharge themselves into it, and it
.eceives all the waters that descend from the moun
tains; but there is no perceptible channel. by which
this great influx is carried off. The water is fresh,.
and so cold, that in a few minutes it benumbs and
PAKT iv. it

260 GUATIMALA.
swells the limbs of those who attempt to swim in it..
The only fish caught in it are crabs, and a species of
small fish about the size of the little finger (pepescas ?).
These are in such countless myriads, that the inha
bitants of all the ten surrounding villages carry on a
considerable fishery for them. The communication
between one village and another is carried on by
canoes." According to this account, (which will
require, however, to be verified,), this lake would seem
to be one of the most remarkable phenomena in the
country. In the absence of all specific information
with regard to its elevation and other circumstances,
it would be idle to frame a conjecture as to its origin,
or the probable communication of its waters with some
other reservoir. The fish which it contains, are the
same as are found in the lake Amatitan. May there
not be some connexion between these lakes, at least
the fathomless one, and the Volcan de Agua 3 Near
the village of Atitan is a mineral spring of " sour
water," which " exudes in the form of dew from the
rock, and trickles into a channel, forming a stream
sufficient to fill small vessels. On account of its medi
cinal -virtues, it is in great request, and is sent to
distant parts : it is an excellent remedy for nephritic
complaints, and cures the swellings in the throat, so
common in this kingdom, where the complaint is
called bosio, and more vulgarly gueguecho. The water
has a flavour resembling lemon, but it leaves no taste
in the mouth," A chemical analysis is a process which
has never "yet been achieved in the kingdom of Guati
mala. The climate of this district is for the most part
mild ; the soil fertile, producing cocoa, maize, pulse,
all sorts of culinary vegetables, aguacates of extraordi.
nary excellence, and a variety of other fruits, aniseed,

GUATIMALA. 261
drugs, and cochineal. In these articles, aided by the
labours of cabinet-makers, carpenters, and potters, the
inhabitants carry on a tolerably lucrative commerce
with the adjoining provinces and the metropolis. The
natives speak the Zutugil and Kachiquel languages.
Half of the curacies in this district belong to the
Franciscans, whereas, in the district of Solola, the
Dominicans are the chief proprietors.
Of the five middle provinces, two still remain to be
described ; they are named, from their chief towns,
QUEZALTENANGO AND TOTONICAPAN.
The ancient kingdom of Quiche extended over great
part of both these provinces, and the Quiche is still
the prevailing dialect. Next to Utatlan; the most
considerable city in that kingdom was Xelahuh,
which occupied the site of the modern town of Quez
altenango del Espiritu Santo.' This was the first
place founded by Alvarado after his conquest of the
Quiche Indians. "It is beyond doubt," says Juar
ros, " the most important, rich, and flourishing vil
lage of the kingdom, surpassing in several respects
many of the towns and cities. The population is
great, viz. (in 1778) 464 Spaniards, 5,536 Ivadinos, *¦
and 5,000 Indians. The Ladinos rear large flocks of
sheep, and cultivate extensive tracts of lands for
wheat. There are numerous artisans in all branches,'
and thirty manufactories of fine linen cloths of various
colours, serges, and coarse cloth of different kinds, in
which 190 workmen are employed, besides several looms
for the manufactory of cotton goods. The corregidor of
* Ladinos is a Spanish word signifying intelligent, or sagacious :
it Is the general appellation given in Guatimala to the Indians who
profess Christianity, to distinguish them from the other natives.

2&2 GUATIMALA.
the province has his residence here. . There is a post-
office, a depot of tobacco, others of gunpowder, sajtr
petre, and playing-cards, (all royal monopolies,) a cus
tom-house, a deputy-commissioner of lands, and a
vice-consulate. There is a Franciscan convent under
the authority of a guardian. The principal church
is capacious, rich, and well furnished, in which the
chapel of Nuestra Senora del Rosario is very curious
as well as in good taste: there are also five other
churches. The market is better supplied than any
other, excepting only that of Guatimala ; the annual
sales average 18,000 bushels of wheat, 14,000 dollars
worth of cocoa, 56,000 of panelas,* 12,000 of sugar,
80;000 of Woollen cloths, and 5,000 of cotton cloth, and
provisions of all kinds in proportion." This estimate
was made between forty and fifty years ago, at whiclj
time the whole population of the province amounted
to about 34,000. In 1823, it is computed to have
risen to nearly 44,000. That of the headrtown may,
therefore, be supposed to have increased in some
thing like the same proportion. The other chief
places in this corregimiento are ; El Barrio de San
Marcos Sacatepec, a small village of Spaniards and
Ladinos, who breed cattle, cultivate wheat and maize,
and manufacture some woollens and linens,— -popula
tion" between 2 and 3,000 ; Santa Catalina Sufii},
population 3,000 ; San Juan Obstnncalco, with 1,300
inhabitants; Tajamulco, a small village, situated at
the base of a volcano of that name, which i$ subject to
frequent eruptions, — this place affords a copious sup
ply of excellent sulphur, as it did to. the soldiers of
Alvarado; Olintepec } Taeana; San Martin; San
* Small loaves of unrefined sugar, much used by the natives in
making rum, or cftica.

GUATIMALA. 263
Pedro Sacatepec ; and Santa Cruz Comitaii. The
languages in use are, the Spanish, the Quiche, and
the Mam.
This province (corregimiento), which lies between
the 15th and 16th parallels of north latitude, and be
tween 93° 26' and 94° 36' of west longitude, is thirty-
five leagues in' length from S.E. to N.W., and about
twenty leagues in breadth from N.E. to S.W., form
ing the figure of a spheroid. It is bounded by Solola
on the south-east ; Suchiltepec" on the south; Soco
nusco on the west ; and Totonicapan on the north
west, north, and north-east. The temperature is
cold, and admits of the cultivation of wheat, maizej
potatoes, peaches, apples, quinces, cherries, &c. The
natives also tend sheep, which are the best branch of
their -trade.
The alcaldia-mayor of Totonicapan^ the most west^
ern of the interior provinces, lying between lat. 15°
12' and I7"* 20' N., and long. 92° 16' and 93° 26' W.,
is bounded by Quezaltenango and Solola on the south ;
Vera Paz on the north-east ; and Chiapa on the north
and west. Its greatest length is sixty-six leagues ; its
breadth fifty. The population, in 1778, consisted of
2,750 Ladinos, and 55,450 Indians dwelling in fifty
villages; In 1823, the total number of inhabitants
was 90,000. The province is divided into the two dis
tricts of Totonicapan and Gueguetenango. The for
mer extends over the eastern part, which is high
table-land, enjoying much the same climate, and yield
ing- the same productions as the other districts of the
ancient kingdom of Quiche, of which it formed part.
San Miguel Totonicapan, the residence of the alcalde-
mayor, is five, leagues from Quezaltenango, eleven
from Solola, ancf thirty-eight from Guatimala. Of
the inhabitants, in 1778, 450 were Ladinos, 578

264 GUATIMALA.
cacique Indians, descended from the Tkui-altecs who
accompanied Alvarado, and nearly 6,000 Maseguales,
or plebeian Indians. The Franciscans have a convent
here. The natives are expert in the manufacture of
guitars, fancy-boxes, and other articles of cabinet
work and earthen-ware. They have, besides, some
woollen manufactories. The climate is cold and
humid. Near this town there are two warm mineral
springs.* San Luis. Sahcaja, situated within the
district of Totonicapan, only two leagues from Quez
altenango, is the site of the first establishment made
by Pedro de Alvarado, and its church is the first that
was consecratedto Christian worship in this country.
It originally bore the name of Quezaltenango, which
signifies " the mountain of Quezales ;" but, on the
transfer of its population, four years after the founda-
tion of the town, to Xelahuh, that name became appro
priated to the latter place. The present hamlet of
Sahcaja was built in 1780, the date of another small
hamlet of Ladinos, named San Carlos Sija, situated
undera very cold climate. The other chief places are,
San Francisco el Alto, Momostenango, and Santa
Maria Chiquimula, each of which contains a popula
tion of from 5 to 6,000 souls ; San Christoval Totoni
capan, 3,500 inhabitants ; and San Andres Xecul,
about 1,200.
The district of Gueguetenango, which forms the
western part of the province, lies on the declivity of
the cordillera, and has consequently a great variety
of climate. In the upper parts wheat is grown, and
* The ancient name of the town is said to have been Clieme-
quena, signifying " upon warm water." The waters, Juarros says,
are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and are so hot, that eggs,
fruit, or even flesh put into it will be perfectly boiled in a short
time. In the rivulet which flows from it, the weavers cleanse
from grease the wool for their looms.

GUATIMALA. -65
sheep are pastured : in the lower cantons, are sugar
plantations, and Chili pepper is raised. Concepcion
Gueguetenango, the chief place, (and formerly the
.head of the alcaldia,) enjoys a mild and benignant
climate, and yields excellent fruit ; it is, however, a
very inconsiderable place, the population having de
clined. At one league's distance is Chiantla, famed
for its sanctuary of the Virgin of Candelaria, a favour
ite idol in these parts. Grapes, oranges, figs, and
pears are grown in its gardens, but the chief article of
commerce is lead, obtained from a rich mine that also
yields some silver and litharge. The vernacular dia
lect here is the Mam. The population is under 1,000.
San Domingo de Sacapulas, situated on the banks of
the river from which it takes its name, is in a hot and
dry climate. On the banks of this river the natives
collect salt, which is dep-sited by the waters. The
town is inhabited by about 2,000 Quiche Indians.
Springs of salt water are found at the village of San
Mateo Istallan (or Ixtatan),.a name signifying " the
land of salt." " At the foot of a large mountain, are
several caverns, penetrating about two yards in the
rock r from the roof of these, the water continually
exudes. If a vessel be filled with it, and placed over
a slow fire at night, it will be found in the morning
crystallised into a fine salt, without any further pro
cess. The Indians are very economical in the distri
bution of this water ; the caverns are locked up, and
the keys are kept by the magistrate. They are opened
only on Thursdays at a fixed hour, when the people
assemble, and each person receives a pitcher-full ; the
magistrates and ecclesiastics are entitled to double
portions. A considerable traffic is carried on in this
article, which they sell in the adjacent provinces, de
riving from it sufficient emolument to enable them to

26. GUATIMALA.
live very comfortably." This village stands in a
ravine, at a short distance from the river Lacandon :
the climate is very cold. On the borders of Totoni
capan stands the small village of San Francisco Mo-
iocint'a, " no otherwise deserving of notice, than for
tlie phenomenon ofthe river ilea, it, the water of which
is of a poisonous quality, and so active, that animals
drinking of it die almost immediately. When cattle
are obliged to pass the river, the owners take the pre
caution of muzzling them, to prevent the certain mor
tality that would be the consequence of their being
¦Suffered to all_y their thirst.'1*1 The Indians of this
•village weave mats of a scarlet Colour, that are much
used in the country.
This province is watered by several rivers. Juarros
enumerates the Zamala, the Sij a, the Motocinta, the
Sacapulas, the Zumacinta, the San Ramon, and the
Cuilco. Most of these fall into the Southern Ocean ;
but the Zumacinta (or Sumasinta) discharges itself
into the Atlantic. The Zamala (or Samala) is the
same river that first bears the name o. the Siguila,
flowing near the village of San Miguel Siguila^-ad
afterwards, at Olintepec, assumes that of Xiqui-
gil, or river of blood, in commemoration of the num
bers of Quich_ Indians who fell there in disputing the
passage with Alvarado. Continuing its course by
Quezaltenango, it receives the river Sija, and passes
by Sunil ; it then enters the province of Suchiltepec,
where it is called the Samala, and finallyfalls into the
Pacific. There are several mountain-streams, which,
falling from lofty rocky eminences, form cascades of
exquisite beauty : for instance, the fall of the river
* Can tills deleterious property arise from-its traversing mines
,of lead ore ?

GUATIMALA. _6.
San Christova! de Paula, another on the road to the
Ranchos Altos of Totonicapan, and those at the village
of Guistla delos Xiotes.
But the most remarkable phenomena in this part
Of the country are, the intermittent rivers. Herrera,
the historian, mentions a spring in the province of
Chiapa, which regularly flows during three yeara, and
is then dry for a similar period, and thus alternately.
This spring is said to be situated on the side of a
mountain, about- half a league from Cuidad Real.
The rivulet is called Yeixhihuiat, a Mexican word
signifying " three-years'-water." "At the expiration
of the term of three years, the fountain dries up, and
the waters burst forth at a place five leagues distant,
near Teopisca. The natives of that village give this pe
riodical spring the name of Ohxavilha, which, in the
Tzendal language, means the same as the Mexican
name. After this spring has flowed for three years,
it disappears, and the water rises again at the former
place." Such is the information obtained by Juarros
from a resident in confirmation of Herrera's statement.
Fuentes, he adds, gives another instance of a similar
fountain near Chiantla, which flows and is dry for
three years together alternately, with this additional
peculiarity, that the waters appear and disappear in
variably on the eve of St. Michael. " This writer de
clares, that he had in his possession documents written
by Diego de Rivas, other monks of the order of La
Merced, and several curates of unimpeachable character,
attesting the fact. With a view to ascertain the cor
rectness of this account, and whether the phenomenon
yet existed, the present writer obtained the favour of
a reference on the subject to a clergyman resident in
the province, who, in reply, declared, that he had
examined several old men of the village, all of whom

268 GUATIMALA.
assured him, with very little discrepancy in their nar
ratives, that, in a hollow between two mountains,
about three leagues from Chiantla, there is a rivulet
which begins to flow on Michaelmas-day, and con
tinues for three years, at the end of which it stops on
the same day, and remains dry for three years ; and
on this account the place is called San Miguel." Who
can resist the conviction, that the Saint himself is the
worker of this triennial miracle ? Fuentes mentions
another rivulet, in a meadow to the northward of
Chiantla, called Higuero, the waters of which begin to
flow twenty days before the periodical rains cease,
and become completely dry twenty days before the
rains begin. He states also, that during the period
that he was corregidor of Totonicapan, as he was
travelling from Aguacatlan to San Juan Ixcoy, " the
channel of a little stream was pointed out to him,
which the Mam Indians called Xubanha, implying
water that is whistled for ; because, by whistling at
the-openings of some clefts in a solid rock, water will
immediately gush forth, of which there is no appear
ance unless that method be used to exhibit it." He
speaks also of a subterranean river, that shews itself
through a large aperture at the foot of a hill about
two miles from the village of Chialchitan. At this
spot, a large quantity of water " boils up," and formB
at once a stream of considerable magnitude. Another
river of moderate size falls into a deep pool, and dis
appears, near a place called Rancho de las Minas;
it rises again on the opposite side of a ridge of moun
tains near the river Socoleo. From all these accounts,
making due allowance for whatever inaccuracy or
romance may have mingled itself with the facts, it is
evident, that, in the heart of the mountains, there must
exist a series of caverns and natural galleries, tra-

GUATIMALA. 269
versed by subterranean rivers, — such as M. Humboldt
conjectures to exist in the limestone formation in the
neighbourhood of Tehuilotepec and Platanillo.* For
the periodical circulation of the waters, it is not easy
to account ; but the whole region is full of wonders,
and might seem the theatre chosen by the genii of the
watery element to display their fantastic feats. The"
water volcano, the fathomless lake of Atitlan, the
triennial rivers, the dripping rocks, and the numerous
hot springs, all seem to form connected parts of the
stupendous hydraulic machinery.
The agency of fire is doubtless at the same time
concerned in some of these phenomena. Besides the
volcano of Tajamulco aheady mentioned, in the neigh
bourhood of which is found so much sulphur, Juarros
mentions another in the same province, called ___•-
canul : this, however, may be the same under another
name. A spring of tepid water highly; sulphureous is
found at San Bartolome Aguas Calientes, and several
warm springs are found on the banks of the river
Siguila near SuniL The whole region abounds with
salt and sulphur in different combinations, and may
be compared to one vast laboratory, of which it might
be said, that the volcanoes are so many colossal fur
naces. In the province of Quezaltenango, there still e?ist
vestiges and foundations of many large Indian for
tresses ; among others, the celebrated one of Parrax-
quin (green mountain), on the confines of Totonica
pan and Quezaltenango, and the citadel of Olintepec,
" formed with all the intricacy of a labyrinth," which
was the chief defence of the important city of Xelahuh.
* Vol. i. p. 357.

270 GUATIMALA.
Fortresses existed at SoColeo, Uspantlan, Ohalcitan;
(Chialchitan ?) and other places.
An interesting specimen of ancient art is inci
dentally referred to by Juarros, in the description
of ihe city of Patinamit in the kingdom of Kachi
quel, situated eleven leagues from the modern vil
lage of Tecpanguatemala.* . In a deep ravine near
that city was " a place of worship," wherein was
placed " a black transparent, stone," which; in some
unexplained way, was consulted as an oracle, the
priests affecting to discover on its surface a represen
tation of the fateawarded to the criminal by the gods.
This oracle was also consulted in the affairs of war.
" The bishop, Francisco Marroquin, having obtained
intelligence of this slab, ordered it to be cut square,
and consecrated it for the tof> ofthe grand altar in the
church of Tecpanguatemala. It is a piece of singular
beauty, about half a yard each way." We inay hope
to receive before long; some more distinct account of
this oracular stone. The description of the city of
Patinamit, given by Fuentes; makes it appear to have
been a stronger and more remarkable place than Utat
lan itself. Though a little out of its place, we shall
insert it here. Patinamit was seated on an eminence,
the plane of which extends about three miles from
north to south, and about two from east to west.
The soil is covered with a stiff clay about three
quarters of a yard deep. On one side of this area
may be seen the remains of a magnificent build
ing, perfectly square, each side measuring 100 paces.
This fabric was constructed of hewn stone, extremely
well put together. In front of the building is a large
squire, on one side of which stand the ruins of a
* See page 246.

GUATIMALA* 271
sumptuous palace, and near to it there are the founda
tions of several houses. A trench, three yards deep,
runs from north to south through the city, having
a breast-Work of masonry, rising about a yard high.
On the eastern side of this trench stood the houses of
the nobles, and on the opposite, the residences ofthe
maseguales, or commoners. The streets were, as may
still be seen, straight and spacious, crossing each other
at right angles. To the westward of the city is a little
mount, that commands it, on which, stands a small,
round building; about six feet in height, in the middle
of which is a pedestal formed of a shining substance
resembling glass ; .but the precise quality of it has not
been ascertained. Seated around this building, the
judges heard and decided causes ; and here also their
sentences were executed, after the oracular stone in
the ravine helow^ bad been, consulted. A deep de
file, or natural fosse, surrounded Patinamit, the per
pendicular depth of which from the level of the city,
was more than 100 fathoms. The only .entrance to
the city was by- a narrow causeway; terminating at
two gates, one beyond the other, constructed of the
chay stone. The dimensions of these works are not
given, but the gigantic nature of the fortress bears
some analogy to that of Xochicalco in Mexico.* The

* See vol. i. p. 339. The hill of Xochicalco, which Humboldt
describes as a mass of rocks to which the hand of man has given a
regular conical form, is surrounded, in like manner, by a deep and
very broad ditch : the whole entrenchment is above 12,000 feet in
circumference. " The magnitude of these dimensions," add6 the
learned Traveller, " ought not to surprise us : on the ridge of the
Cordilleras of Peru, and on heights almost equal to that of the
Peak of Teneriife, M> Bonpland and myself have seen monuments
still more considerable. Lines of defence and entrenchments bf
extraordinary length, are found in the plains of Canada, The

272 GUATIMALA.
city of Mixco in Xilotepec was, in like manner, built
on the summit of a steep rock, accessible only by a
narrow path that would not admit two persons
abreast, and intersected by deep ravines. It is said
to have been founded by the Pocomam Indians',
and is about nine leagues from the modern town
of Mixco. The Vale of Tenochtitlan is not richer
in ancient monuments, than that of Guatimala and
the adjacent provinces. Yet, Pompeii itself was not
more effectually shrowded. from observation, pre
viously to its disinterment, than these regions have
hitherto been from the eye of science or of taste,
through the incurious spirit and jealous policy of the
Spanish Americans.
The most remarkable object which this district pre
sents to the naturalist, is " the bat-winged squirrel,"
found on the mountains and in the woods of Quezal
tenango, Totonicapan, and Solola. Its figure and
size, Juarros says, are those of the common squirrel,
but it has two small wings resembling those of the
bat, without hair or other covering : it can fly, how
ever, but a short distance. In point of fact, we ap
prehend, it cannot be said to fly at all, but only to
leap. Such at least is the account generally given by
naturalists of the American flying squirrel. The
supposed wing is only a loose skin attached to the
bending of the hinder feet, and connected by a bony
whole of these American works resemble those which are daily
discovered in the eastern part of Asia. Nations of the Mongol
race, those especially that are most advanced in civilisation, have
built walls that separate whole provinces  Among the hiero-
glyphical ornaments of the pyramid of Xochicalco, we distinguish
heads of crocodiles spouting water, and figures of men sitting
cross-legged, according to the custom of several nations of Asia."—
Humboldt's Researches, vol. i. pp. 109 — 11.

GUATIMALA. 273
articulation with the fore feet, which the animal has
the power of extending like a sail ; and it then holds
so much air as to buoy him up, and enable him to
jump from tree to tree at a prodigious distance.
We must now proceed to give some account of the

PROVINCES ON THE ATLANTIC COAST.
To the south of the peninsula of Yucatan, between
Chiapa and Totonicapan on the east, and the Bay of
Honduras on the west, and bounded by Solola on the
south, lies the province (alcaldia-mayor) of Vera Pazj
called by "the Indians Tuzulutlan. The Spaniards at
first gave it the name of Tierra de Guerra (land of
war), from the warlike spirit of the natives, by whom
they were three several times repulsed in their at
tempts to conquer it. Charles the Fifth bestowed on
it the name of Vera Paz, because the Indians em
braced Christianity merely from the preaching of the
missionaries. The account which Juarros gives of
this prodigious phenomenon (for such it appeared to
the armed apostles and crusading religionists of those
times) is as follows : " In the year 1536, Bartolome
Las Casas, Pedro de Angulo, Luis de Cancer, and
Rodrigo de Ladrada, of the Dominican order, settled
in the city of Guatimala. Las Casas, who was vicar
of the convent, had, some years before, written a
treatise, which he called ' De unico vocationis modo ;'
in which he attempted to prove, and with great eru
dition, that Divine Providence had instituted the
preaching of the gospel as the only means of conver
sion to the Christian faith ; for by those means alone
can the understanding be persuaded, and the inclina
tion be led, to embrace its tenets ; consequently,

274 GUATIMALA.
harassing by wars those whoBe conversion is, sought
for, is the means of preventing, rather than accom-
plisning, the desired object. Hence it results, that,
to obtain this end, war cannot, in justice, be made
upon those who have never been subject to a Christian
authority, or have never committed any act of aggres
sion against Christians. This reasoning was gene
rally believed fallacious ; and when the author pro
mulgated and endeavoured to prove it from the
pulpit, as well as in private assemblies, instead of pro
ducing conviction among his auditors, he was laughed
at, treated with ridicule, and advised to put in prac
tice what he had preached in theory ; as he would
then be with certainty nndeceived-by the bad success
of his rash enterprise.
" Firm in his opinion, and possessing too much
courage to be intimidated by taunts, Las Casas un
hesitatingly accepted the' proposal. The province af
Tuzulutldn, whioh the Spaniards called Tierra de
Guerra (the land Of war), as they had been three
several times driven back in their attempts to conquer
it, but which the Emperor Charles the Fifth after
ward called Verapaz, because the natives were brought
within the pale of Christianity hy the exertion of the
missionaries only, was pitched upon by him as the.
scene of his first endeavours ; and this region, that
the Spaniards were unable to subdue by their arms,
yielded to the mild persuasion of a few zealous eccle
siastics. The Dominicans, previously to commencing
their undertaking, entered into an agreement with
the governor, Alonzo de Maldonado, that such pro
vinces as might be reduced to the obedience of the
crown of Spain by their efforts, were not to be put
under the charge of any individual ; and that no

GUATIMALA. 275
Spaniards should be permitted to reside in them during
a period of five years. The governor assented to these
terms, and signed an agreement of that purport on
ihe 2d of May,: 1537 ; which was confirmed by the
king on the 17th of October, 1540, and again on the
1st of May, 1543.
" This arrangement being concluded, the Domini
cans composed some hymns in the Quiche language ;
in which they described the creation of the 'world, the
fall of Adam, the redemption of mankind, and the
principal mysteries of the life, passion, and death of
the Saviour. These were learned by some of the
converted Indians, who traded with those of Saca
pulas and Quiche, where the chief ¦ cacique of that
country, who was afterwards called Don Juan, having
heard them sung, asked those who had repeated them
to explain more in detail the meaning1 of things so
new to him. The Indians excused themselves from
so doing, on account of their inability to perform it
correctly, saying, they could be explained only by the
fathers who had taught them ; and these were so kind
that, if he would send for them, they would gladly
come and instruct him in every thing. The cacique
was pleased with the infor__a_ion, and sent one of his
brothers, with many presents, to entreat that they
would come to make him acquainted with every thing
contained in the songs of the Indian merchants. The
fathers received this ambassador with great kindness,
and much satisfaction to themselves, and determined
that one of their number, Luis Cancer, should return
with him to the cacique. The chief went to the en
trance of the village to meet the missionary, treated
him with great veneration, and after having been
made to comprehend the mysteries of the new faith,

276 GUATIMALA.
he fervently adopted it, burnt his idols, and became
a preacher of the gospel to his own subjects.
. " Cancer returned to Guatimala, and the favourable
reports he made, so much rejoiced Las Casas and
Angulo, that, in December 1537, they set out for the
residence of the cacique Don Juan. They visited the
whole district of Tuzulutldn, where they were well
received ; and having reconnoitred a part of it, they
returned to the cacique Juan. At this time the
fathers endeavoured to assemble the Indians in vil
lages; for, as they were then living dispersed, there
was greater labour in civilising and instructing them.
With this object in view, they undertook to form
villages; and, by the assistance of the chief, they
soon succeeded, but not without much labour, and
some opposition, in establishing the village of Rabinal.
This object having been satisfactorily accomplished,
they penetrated further into the province, arid reached
Coban, being every where well received by the na
tives." Las Casas affirms, in his " Apologetical His
tory," that in no part of the Indies did he find
governments better ordered, or ruled by better laws,
than those he met with in this district. Thus, the
Indians of Verapaz, brought to live in societies under
* " It may at first sight appear inconsistent and contradictory to
say that the missionaries arrived at Coban and other places, and
afterward, that they persuaded the natives to live in villages; but
it must be observed, that, in the time of their paganism, these
Indians had villages similar to some still existing, that are called
Pajuyues, in which the houses are so far distant from each other,
that a place containing 500 inhabitants, will extend a league or
more. These fathers, and some of the first conquerors, placed
them in villages formed after the Spanish manner, with the church
in the centre, before it the square, with the cabildo or town-house^
prison, and other offices, the houses connected in squares, the
streets straight and crossing each other at right angles."

GUATIMALA. 277
a rational legislation, and instructed in the dogmas of
true religion, embraced Christianity with ardour, and
cheerfully submitted to the empire of the Spanish
monarch. Such was the case, not only in Rabinal
and Coban, but in places more remote, as Cahabon,
and others.
" After the conquest of Verapaz, thus fortunately
and mildly achieved, the Dominicans next undertook
that of Alcald. In the year 1552, Thomas de la
Torre, vicar-general of the order, arrived at Coban,
in his visit to the different convents. At this period,
Domingo Vico had made himself master of the lan
guage of Alcald, and accompanying the vicar -general,
they made their first entry into that province ; where
they preached with so much zeal and fervour, that
they, induced many natives to embrace Christianity,
and give up a great number of their idols, which were
publicly burnt. They pursued their apo6tolical labours
with diligence, converting and baptizing many ; but,
being repeatedly warned that some of the infidels
meditated their destruction, they withdrew privately.
Some time after this, Vico renewed his visit to Alcald,
and succeeded in making many proselytes. Being
appointed prior of Coban, he sent Alonzo Vayllo, and
some others, into Alcald ; and not long after, the
conventuals of Coban went thither on a similar mis
sion. The three years of Vico's priorate having ex
pired, he made another excursion into that province,
and exerted himself with unwearied zeal to persuade
the inhabitants to form societies, and build villages ;
labouring incessantly to promote their welfare, until
lie fell a martyr to his kindness. He was killed by
them on the 29th of November, 1555. Remesal makes
no mention of Alcald after Vico's death ; and it is

278 GUATIMALA.
supposed that further attempts to reclaim them were
abandoned. " Adjoining the province of Verapaz is that of
Manche, the reduction of which was occasioned by the
following circumstances.* About the year 1570, some
of the principal Indians came to Coban, where they
were well received, and much caressed by Thomas de
Cardenas, Bishop of Verapaz, and other residents in
the convent. This pleased them so highly, that after
ward they frequently came to Cahabon, the nearest
village to their own territories. On these visits, the
fathers always instructed them on religious subjects,
and exhorted them to embrace Christianity ; the an
swer uniformly given was, that they would consider
about it, but 'they remained undecided with respect to
giving up their native mode of worship until 1603.
In this year, a chapter of the Dominican order was
held in the convent at Sacapulas ; and Alonzo Criado
de Castilla wrote to the members, recommending them
most earnestly ttt undertake the conversion of Manche.
The means by which this service was to be effected,
were discussed in the assembly, with great attention,
several times ; and the result of these conferences
was, to order Juan de Esguefrfa to prepare for under
taking the mission as speedily and effectually as pos
sible. On the 25th of April, Esguerra, accompanied
by Salvador Cipriano, left Cahabon for Manche, and
reached the first village of that province on the 1st of
May, which being St. Philip's day, they called it after
the saint. The cacique advanced to meet them, and
regaled them according to the manner of his country,
with all the distinction he could shew ; the principal
* This district, as well as Alcala, Is now included in Vera Paz.

GUATIMALA. 27.
chiefs ofthe other villages, that they visited, followed
the cacique's example. The fathers preached to the
Indians in all the places they visited ; and having ex
plored as much of the territory as they then could,
returned to Cahabon. At the desire of the president,
Esguerra persuaded some ofthe caciques to accompany
him to Guatimala, where they were received by the
governor, and treated with every mark of attention
and kindness ; he presented them with dresses of silk,
and gave them others for their wives. This good
treatment operated strongly in making the Indians lay
aside, the fear they entertained of the Spaniards, and
led them to consider the offer of Christianity as liable
to fewer objections than they had entertained against
it.,- In February pf the following year, 1604, the same
missionaries undertook another journey into Manche ;
in May, they were fallowed by some more, and, in
addition to these, care was taken to send some Df'the
baptized Indians from Cahabon into the .villages of
JUanche,. that they, might use their influence in ex
horting the inhabitants to attend to the instructions
_>f the fathers.. These means were so successfully plied,
that in 1 606, eight villages had entirely abandoned the
pagan, rites, tg. kneel before the altars pf Christianity,
and suhmit tp.th-e government pf Spain."
In 1764 and the following two years, fhe.Dominican
fathers made repeated .attempts to convert the Indians
of the Choi nation, whose country lies.tp the north
east pf Vera P,az, Some of the Chois, it seems, had
arrived at Guatimala, to request that missionaries
might be sent to them, and the audiencia ordered
Francisco Gallegos, the provincial of the. order, to
depute proper persons ...undertake the mission- The
provincial determined to go in person, attended by
Father Jose Delgadp. On arriving at Cahabon, the

280 GUATIMALA.
last village in Vera Paz, they procured Indian guides,
and, after a journey of twenty-three leagues, arrived
at the dwellings of the Indians who had visited the
capital. " At this place they assembled as many of
the Chois as they could collect, and built a village
which they named San Lucas, and soon afterward two
others not far distant from the first. They subse
quently penetrated into the sierras further to the
north, and ascended a very lofty mountain, which was
designated by the natives, the God of the Hills. On
the other side of this mountain were great numbers of
inhabitants, who immediately came to visit the fathers ;
and these having made them comprehend, that they
had been sent by the Almighty for their instruction,
were treated with great kindness and respect ; the
natives saying, that they appeared among them like
the sun, moon, and stars, to dispel the darkness of
their ignorance. The Indians then cleared a road for
them to advance further into the country, and, as they
arrived at any difficult or rough part, carefully carried
them over it. In this manner they continued their
route, and in the space of eight leagues, three more
villages were marked out. The rainy season was now
approaching, and the fathers returned to Guatimala.
" In 1676, the same zealous missionaries again visited
the Chois and the Manches, and encountered much
less difficulty or fatigue than in either of their former
journeys, as a more direct path had been opened for
them. They found the Indians still persevering in
their designs, and that they had not forgotten such
instruction as had been already afforded to them:
many more settlements were formed, in which 234
persons were admitted to' the rite of Christian bap
tism, besides many others at the different dwellings
and small settlements dispersed among the mountains.

GUATIMALA. 281
In 1678, for what reason cannot now be discovered,
the Chois returned to their native worship, abandoned
the villages, blocked up the roads, dispersed among
the mountains, and thus destroyed the expectations
that had been raised at the expense of so much labour
and fatigue."
No further attempts were made till the year 1685,
when Augustin Cano, then provincial of San Domingo,
penetrated once more into the mountains, and suc
ceeded in persuading some of the Chois to return and
settle again in the village of San Lucas ; but, three
years afterwards, these untoward neophytes again set
fire to the village, and the missionaries resident there
narrowly escaped with their lives. This want of suc
cess in the use of fair means, determined the Spanish
Government to revert to the shorter method of con
version by means of the sword. In 1688, the alcalde-
mayor of Vera Paz undertook an expedition into the
country in search of the apostates, and brought back
as many of the natives as he could induce to follow
him, whom he settled in the valley of Urran, where
their posterity still remain. The Spanish monarch
now growing impatient, fresh commands were issued
for the conversion of this nation ; and in Nov. 1692,
the Council of the Indies transmitted _ despatch,
ordering the conquest of the Chois and the Lacandons
to be undertaken simultaneously from the provinces
of Vera Paz, Chiapa, and Gueguetenango. The good
work was not,- however, set about till the beginning
of 1695, when three , detachments of Spaniards and
Indians, under the command of the president of the
audiencia, with a proper staff of ecclesiastics, entered
the mountains. One of these detachments under
Mazariegos, having advanced with great difficulty
through swamps and thickets and over broken ground,

282 GUATIMALA.
at length, on their sixth day's journey, discovered a
village of the Lacandons, containing about 100 houses.
It was quite deserted, but they determined to make a
settlement here, and a wooden fort was hastily con
structed, while the fathers who accompanied the
troops, took possession of what had served for a temple,
and, having burned all the idols they could find, con.
verted it into a chapel. The track to the village
having been discovered on Good Friday, the place was
named, Nuestra Senora de los Dolores. Soldiers were
now sent out in all directions in search of the fugi
tives, and about a hundred, with their cacique, were
induced to return to their village ; their houses were
given up to them, and the soldiers were lodged in huts
without the village. More Indians continued to arrive,
until the number amounted to four hundred, most
of whom were baptised. The rainy season being
at hand, it was deemed expedient to return with
the troops to the capital, leaving only a garrison in
the fort, and some missionaries, to prosecute the work
so favourably commenced. .
A second detachment, commanded by a Captain
Velasco, which left Cahabon about the same time that
the former set out from San Mateo Iztapan, had in
the mean time succeeded in collecting upwards of 500
Choi Indians, among whom were some of the fugitives
who bad run away from the villages established by
Gallegos in, 1675. " The domiciliated Chois soon
gave information of the Mopans, a fierce and warlike
tribe, spread over about thirty leagues of country,
among whom neither Spaniards nor missionaries had
ever yet ventured. The description given of this
people, instead, of discouraging the soldiers, excited
their emulation, and they prepared to go in search of
them. The commander having made the necessary

GUATIMALA. 283
dispositions, they departed, and, with much labour,
cleaned their way over precipices, rocks, and ravines,
until they came .jn sight of the hovels ofthe people
they were in search of. The number of families in this
nation, it is confidently stated, amounted to between
10 and 12,000, dwelling in a country of exquisite
beauty and great fertility, in a climate the most
agreeable of any that had yet been discovered. On
the first sight Qf the Spaniards, the natives were
alarmed, and gave unequivocal demonstrations pf
making a stout resistance ; but the judicious measures
of the missionaries, and the prudence of the com
mander, so much disarmed their resentment, and
c^lmpd their apprehensions, that they soon opened a
friendly intercourse : the result of which w.as, that the
caciques were brought together) and persuaded to ex
change their present mode of life for a domestic one,:
and to accept the offer of .being admitted to the benefits
of Christianity. Intelligence of what had been
effected, was sent to the governor at the village of
Dolores, and also to the royal audiencia ; submitting
to their consideration, that advantages would accrue
from building a town in Mopan, to be inhabited by
Spaniards, as the land was of the excellent quality
aheady mentioned, and the situation eligible for
facilitating the reduction of the whole to settled
habits of life ; being in the centre of the unre
claimed nations, having Choi on the south, the Itza
on the east and north, and the Lacandon on the west.
The troops continued their march until they reached
the extremity of Mopan, and pitched their camp about
forty leagues from the lake of Itza, having traversed
eighty-two leagues of very mountainous country. On
quitting this situation, the detachment pursued a
route to the river Chaxal, ten leagues distant from
part iv. s

284 GUATIMALA.
Itza. Velasco thought of passing the river, and
attempting the conquest of Peten ; but the mission
aries represented to him, that, as the numbers of the
Itzaes were reported to be very great, their present
force was inadequate to undertake so important an
enterprise, more particularly as the soldiers began to
be unhealthy, provisions to grow scarce, and the wet
season was fast approaching. The commander acknow
ledged the force of these arguments, and determined
to retreat ; but, before leaving the territory of Mopan,
a fort was constructed, and garrisoned by thirty sol
diers, with some Indians, under the command of Pedro
Ramirez de Orosco."
In 1696, another expedition was sent out under the
direction of Bartolome de Amezquita, oidor of the
audiencia, accompanied by this same Velasco. ' They
safely" reached Mopan. Velasco then requested and
obtained permission to push on with part of the troops
at a quicker rate, but he was strictly enjoined not to
penetrate more than sixleagues beyond the river Chaxal.
This command was not obeyed with the punctuality
that became a soldier ; he advanced as far as the lake
Itza, where he was attacked by the Indians, and him
self and all his men, about a hundred in number,
were killed. Amezquita followed, and not meeting
with Velasco, halted on the banks of the Chaxal,
where he was proceeding to construct a fort, when, in
consequence of a change of administration, and the
new orders to which it led, the expedition was re
called, Mopan was abandoned, and all further attempts
at conversion were suspended. The Itzaes were sub
sequently reduced by forces sent from Yucatan; but
the Alcalas, the Mopans, the Chois, and the Lacan-
dons remain, Juarros says, for the most part unsub
dued to the present day. The province of Vera Paz

GUATIMALA. 285
is, indeed, throughout inhabited almost entirely by
Indians, there being neither Spaniards nor Ladinos,
except a very few in one or two villages for the pur
pose of maintaining the sovereignty of the Spaniards
over the territory.
San Domingo Coban, the residence of the alcalde-
mayor, and formerly of the bishop of Vera Paz, is
imposingly styled the imperial city of San Domingo.
In point of population, it is a place of some impor
tance, containing upwards of 12,000 inhabitants, but
apparently in no other respect. It stands in lat.
15° 15' N., long. 91° 16' W., and is fifty leagues from
Guatimala. The names of the other most populous
villages are, San Pablo, Rabinal, San Matteo,
Salama, and Santa Maria Cahabon. In the village
of San Augustin Lanquin, there is a cavern wherein
are very, beautiful stalactites. The total population
is about 80,000 souls.
The province of Vera Paz is partly mountainous
and rugged, but contains extensive tracts of marshy
land, subject to inundation from the innumerable
rivers which intersect it. Some of these afford great
facilities for inland navigation. By the river Poloehic,
produce imported from Europe might be transported
to the capital. This river rises in the mountain
of Xucaneb ; after passing the village of San Pablo
Tamajun, it takes a north-easterly direction, and at
about four leagues from Tamajun, flows by another
village, called San Miguel Tucuru. In its way to
the Amatique gulf, it is joined by the Cahabon river.
From the bar to this confluence, the river is ascended
by large launches, vessels not being able to pass
the bar at the mouth of the lagoon : beyond that
point, large flat-bottomed canoes are employed. About
eight leagues below Tucuru, there was formerly a

286 GUATIMALA.
village called Santa Catarina, and, further down,
another named San Andres, both of which were
burnt, and the settlements destroyed, Juarros states,
by the English. In former times, he says, the mer
chandise imported from Spain to Guatimala, and that
which this country exported to Europe, were con
veyed by this river; and even so lately as 1793, the
organ sent from Europe fdr the church of San
Domingo, was transported by this route to the capital.
The advantages of the navigation are stated to be,
first, that the Polochic has always sufficient water,
even for vessels, if they could pass the bar ; secondly,
that the route from Las Bodegas (in Honduras) to
the capital, is much shorter than that by Zacapa ; *
thirdly, that the former route is more healthy than
the latter, and free from the excessive heats which
prove so frequently fatal ; and fourthly, that the
lands of Vera Paz being fertile in the extreme, there is
an abundant supply of provisions.
Another river of importance for inland traffic, is the
Rio de la Passion, which rises in the mountains of
Chama. Where it passes to the north of Coban, in
front of the mountains of Chicec, it is twenty-five
toises in breadth, and not less than ten in depth. In
the rainy season, it swells to half a league in bfeadth,
and its depth is proportionably augmented. From
Vera Paz, it flows in a north-westerly direction,
passes through the district of Peten, enters that of
Tabasco, and, uniting with the large river Utsuma-
* From Guatimala to Ave Maria, the place of embarkation,
about eleven leagues above Tucuru, the distance is fifty-five
leagues, which may be travelled with ease in six days ; from Ave
Maria to the mouth ofthe Lagoon, two days; thence to the Cas
tillo, at most two days more; so that the whole distance may
be performed in ten days.

GUATIMALA. 287
zinta, discharges itself into the Bay of Campeche,
where it forms the bar of St. Peter and St. Paul.* A
very profitable commerce, Juarros says, might be
opened by means of this river, with Peten, Tabasco,
Campeche, and even Vera Cruz.
The large lake Itza, or Peten, lies between Vera
Paz, Chiapa, and Yucatan. It is of an oblong figure,
and about twenty-six leagues in circumference. In
some parts there are thirty fathoms of depth ; in
others, still more. The waters are good, and produce
excellent fish. The Peten, or Great Island, is about
two leagues f_om the shore. It was the chief place of
the Itza Indians. It is steep and lofty, and on the
summit is a plain nearly a quarter of a league in
diameter. Four smaller islands lie at short distances
from the principal one, all of which, together with
the whole eastern side of the lake and the neighbour
ing range of mountains, were formerly peopled by dif
ferent Indian nations. In the five islands alone,
according to the computation of the missionaries,
there were, prior to the conquest, from 24 to 25,000
inhabitants, while the Indians who inhabited the bor
ders of the lake and the mountains, were almost innu
merable. The gods were numerous in proportion.
When Peten was taken by Martin de Ursua in 1697,
" so great was the number of idols found in twenty-
one places of worship that were in the island, as well
as in the private houses, that the general, officers, and
soldiers were unremittingly employed from nine

* In this account, our only guide is Juarros, and the map pre
fixed to the Translation by no means aids us to verify or throw
light on the text. The Utsumazinta is apparently the same river
that he elsewhere writes Zumacinta and Sumasinta. The river
San Pedro y Pablo enters Tabasco from Chiapa. Neither the Rio de
la Passion, nor the Polocfiic, is noticed by name in the map.
s 2

288 GUATIMALA.
o'clock in the morning till five in the afternoon,
in destroying them." * At the close of the last cen
tury, there remained but seven villages in the whole
territory, with a population of only 2,555 individuals !
The principal place in the district is the fortress of
Peten, called Nuestra Senora de los Remedios, which
is the residence of the warden (castellano) of Peten,
and the ecclesiastical vicar appointed by the bishop of
Merida. The climate, Juarros says, is temperate and
salubrious ; the country abounds with game ; the soil
yields two harvests of maize in the year ; it produces
also Chiapa pepper, Brazil wood, balsam, vanilla,
cotton, cocoa, pine-apples and other fruits, indigo^
aehiote, and cochineal.
At the distance of ten leagues from the lake, the
ridge of the Alabaster mountains begins, on which is
found green, brown, and red jasper. These moun
tains afford shelter to great numbers of wild beasts.
Among the animals peculiar to this province, Juarros
mentions the zachin, a quadruped resembling a rat,
about a span long, with a tail of six inches. Though
so diminutive, it preys upon snakes, rats, birds,
poultry, overtakes the mountain cat and deer, and
even attacks the lord of the creation with great bold
ness ; it emits so fetid a smell, that dogs will not
encounter it unless they are much enraged, and its
bite is venomous. Among the numerous varieties
of the feathered race which enliven the forests of this
province, the quetzal holds the first rank for its
plumage, which is of an exquisite emerald green : the
tail feathers, which are very long, are favourite orna-
* Among these idols were some bones, which were ascertained to
be part of tile skeleton of a horse left here by Cortes, on his way to
Honduras, on account of its being diseased : the said bones were
held by the Indians in high veneration.

GUATIMALA. 289
ments with the natives, and were formerly sent, as
a valuable present, to the sultans of Tenochtitlan.
Great care was taken not to kill the birds, and they
were released after being despoiled of these feathers.
" The birds themselves," says Juarros, " as if they
knew the high estimation their feathers are held
in, build their nests with two openings, that, by enter
ing at one, and quitting them by the other, their
plumes may not be deranged." This most beautiful
bird, which is peculiar to this kingdom, is found also
in Quezaltenango. Three other birds found in this
province are described by Juarros. " The chion is a
small bird, about the size Of a canary, and of various
colours : some are of a fine shining black ; others
have the head and upper part black, the breast and
inferior parts white, and the wings spotted ; there are
some yellow, like canaries, which they also resemble
in song. This little creature cannot be domesticated,
for they never survive two days of captivity. The chul-
pilchoe is a native bird of the cold and humid mountains
of Verapaz ; the plumage is black, except on the
breast, which is scarlet ; it is about the size of _
canary, but has no song, at least only a sort of short
whistle. The raxon is one of the most beautiful birds
known ; it is an inhabitant only of the mild climate of
Verapaz, for great heat and excessive cold are alike
destructive to it. Nature has denied it song, but,
by fluttering its wings, it makes a noise like that of a
hawk's bell ; it is, therefore, only estimable for the
plumage. Its height is about nine inches, the bill
short, and eyes black ; the feet are provided with
three toes before and one behind ; the feathers below
the bill, and on all the front part, are purple ; a ring
round the neck, and the upper part of the body are of
a lustrous emerald green, exquisitely beautiful ; the

290 GUATIMALA.
wings and tail are black. The female is larger than
the male, but differs from him so much, as to seem
a creature of a distinct species ; the feathers are gray,
with streaks of white, but in the sun's rays they have
a tinge of green."
Excellent timber of various kinds, — the guayacan,
the drago, which yields the gum called dragon's blood,
the liquidambar, mastic-tree, and other balsamic and
aromatic trees, abound in the forests.
To the south-east of the province of Vera Paz, lies
the corregidorship of Chiquimula, bounded by Hon
duras on the east ; Escuintla, Sacatepec, and Zon
zonate on the south ; and the Atlantic on the north.
It is divided into two districts, which were formerly
separate corregimientos : the one, called Acasaguast-
lan, or Zacapa, comprises the western part, and con
tains only eight villages ; that of Chiquimula, the
eastern division, includes twenty-two villages. The
total population is about the same as that of Vera
Paz, being rather above 80,000. The vernacular
language is the Chorti. The climate is almost every
where extremely hot. The productions of the soil
are, maize, rice, cocoa, melons, water-melons, cotton,
and above all, the sugar-cane ; there are also said
to be mines of gold, silver, talc, and other minerals.
There are excellent pasture-lands, in which are bred
cattle, hogs, horses, and mules.
The chief places in the western division are, San
Augustin de la Real Corona, or Acasaguastlan ; and
San Pedro Zacapa. At the latter place, there are a
few Spanish families, many of mulattoes, but more of
Indians. In this district is the large fresh-water
lake, called the Golfo Dulce; it is six leagues across in
almost every direction, and communicates with the

GUATIMALA. 291
ocean by a channel called the Gulf River, the mouth
Of which is about fourteen leagues from the lake, in
the centre of the Bay of Honduras.* Numerous
rivers fall into this lake, rendering it navigable by
large vessels. For more than a century, this Was the
only port where the ships of Spain trading with this
kingdom, discharged their freights. Oh its shore is a
fort called the castle of San Felipe, built in 1655. In
the event of our establishing a commercial intercourse
direct with Guatimala, the river Dulce will become of
Considerable importance.
Chiquimula de la Sierra, the chief place in the
eastern district, is the residence of the corregidor, and
contains upwards of 3,000 inhabitants, of whom about
300 are Spaniards. It is in lat. 14° 20'. N., and long.
90° 16' W. ; distance from Guatimala, fifty leagues.
But the best-built town in the district, though situ
ated in a humid and unhealthy climate, is said to be
San Jago EsquipulaS. It starids in a plain sur-
l'ounded by hills, and is famous on two accounts;
first, as having one of the most capacious and hand
somest churches in the kingdom ; it has three aisles,
and is surmounted by four lofty towers, but what
forms its chief glory is, a large crucifix, carved by
a native of Guatimala, which is adored throughout
the country for the miracles it bas wrought : the other
remarkable thing is, an inn, — the only one, possibly,
that Guatimala can yet boast of.
The province of Chiquimula was conquered by the
ofiicers of Alvarado. In the year 1530, the Indians
revolted, but were again subdued by Hernando de
Chaves. Part of this province and of Vera Paz, was
* According to Juarros, it is 120 leagues from Caps Catoche,
and 68 leagues from the Point of Castile, and is in lat. 15° 25' N. ;
long. 00° 16' Vf.

292 GUATIMALA.
formerly comprehended in the alcaldia-mayor of
Amatique, which comprised a district thirty-five
leagues in length by thirty in breadth, southward of
the river Dulce. It contained one town and three
villages ; but the town, called New Seville, situated
on the southern bank of the river Polochic, was
dismantled in pursuance of a royal decree, in 1549, in
consequence of representations made by the monks of
Vera Paz. The three villages, Amatique, situated
near the Gulf of Guanaxos, Jocolo, which stood where
the castle of San Felipe has since been erected, and
San Tomas, were abandoned in consequence of the
pestilential epidemics by which they were repeatedly
desolated ; and the alcaldia was abolished.
Among the remarkable objects in this province,
Juarros mentions the lake of Atescatempa, near a
village of the same name, in the curacy of Jutiapa,
which receives two large rivers, theContipec and the
Yupitepec, and, like the lake of Atitlan, has no
apparent outlet for its waters ; but, at a short distance
from its borders, at a place called La Doncella, a large
volume of water issues from the earth, and forms
a broad and deep river. " As the discharge is always
regular, this opening," Juarros reasonably infers, " can
be no other than the channel by which the waters of
the lake are drawn off." A still more extraordinary
natural curiosity is, the cave of Penol, which, accord
ing to the tradition of the country, extends through
the mountains, from Penol, towards the village of
Mataquescuinte, as far as the Rio de los Esclavos,
a distance of about eleven leagues. We know not on
what grounds this tradition rests. The subterranean
passage does not appear to have been penetrated
beyond the distance of three quarters of a league. At
this distance, the only individual who is known to

GUATIMALA. 293
have attempted it, found his lights always extin
guished by the mephitic vapour. Gigantic skeletons
are said to have been found in the neighbourhood
of this cave, some of the leg bones of which measured
five feet six inches ! ! Among the rivers of this
region, the next in importance to the river Dulce, is
the Rio Grande, which rises in the province of Chi
maltenango, and afterwards takes the name of Mo-
tagua : it is noted for a delicate species of fish, from
two to three feet long, called the bobo, which is
caught only in this river and in that which flows by
the city of Comayagua. It falls into the Atlantic
eight leagues to the eastward of the Gulf river, form
ing the boundary between Chiquimula and the inten
dancy of Comayagua, or Honduras.
The Bay of Honduras, along the coast of which the
latter province extends, was so named by the Spaniards,
because, when they first came to subjugate the coun
try, they were unable to find anchorage, owing to the
great depth (hondura) of water. They called the
country Hibueras, or Calabazas, from the great num
ber of pumpions they found on shore, and Guaimura,
from a native village on the coast. The name of the
bay is now generally given to the province, although
it is officially named, as an intendancy, from Comay
agua, the chief city. This province was the first part
of the New Continent on which the Spaniards landed.
Herrera says, that Columbus arrived off the coast of
Honduras in the year 1502,. and landed at Point
Casinas on the 17th of August. Formal possession
was taken of the country in the name of the King of
Castile ; Columbus, however, did not advance into
the interior, but continued his progress along the
coast till he reached Veraguas, and the province of

294 GUATIMALA.
Honduras was not explored till twenty years after,
when Gil Gonsalez Davila, taking shelter in the Gulf
Dulce, built a little village near Cape Three Points,
to which he gave the name of San Gil de Buena
Vista. This site was subsequently abandoned as un
healthy, a character which attaches, unfortunately, to
the whole province. We need not pursue the history
of its settlement, which is in nowise interesting.
The soil is for the most part extremely fertile, pro
ducing maize, pulse, cocoa, sugar, and cotton ; it
abounds also in cattle ; but the climate is hot anj
humid, and, consequently, extremely insalubrious, on
which account many of the towns of which it could
boast at one time, have been successively abandoned.
The population which, in 1778, was 87,730, and in
1791, 93,500, is still under 127,000. Yet it con
tains, Juarros says, more gold and 'silver mines
than all the rest of the kingdom besides.* It i.
divided into two districts : Comayagua, formerly „
government, which comprehends the western part ;
and Tegucigalpa, at one time an alcaldia-mayor, which
extends over the eastern part.
The district of Comayagua contains ninety-four
villages and settlements. The chief places are Trux
illo, Gracias a Dios, and Comayagua. Truxillo, situ
ated close to the port of that name, was formerly tbe
capital of the province, and the residence of the bishop.
It stands about thirty yards above the level of the sea,
between the rivers Negro and Christales ; distance
from Comayagua 95 leagues, and 239 from Guatimala;
in lat. 15° 20' N. ; long. 86° 6' W. The harbour is
* The valley of Olancho, in particular, is celebrated for the
,( immense riches that have been collected from the river Guayapc
that flows through it ; and even now," adds Juarros, " the purest
gold in the kingdom is found in its sands."

GUATIMALA. 295
commodious and well-fortified. The Dutch landed
here in 1643, and pillaged and destroyed the town ;
from -which time it remained in a ruined state till
1789, when the Government directed it to be again
put in a state of defence. It was attacked, in 1797, by
two English ships of war and a brig, but they
were repulsed. The population, however, is now very
inconsiderable. Gracias a Dios is in a state of great
decay ; yet, it was formerly one of the most flourish
ing places in the kingdom, and important "as being for
some time the seat of the royal audiencia. It is
situated in a pleasant valley, at the baste of a lofty
mountain, from the summit of which descends a
rivulet that flows close by, and supplies it with water.
It is thirty-eight leagues from Comayagua and 166
from Guatimala; lat. 14? N. "; long. 89° 16' W.
This city was founded by Juan de Chaves in 1536.
He had spent a long time in searching for a convenient
situation for a town about mid-way between Honduras
and Guatimala, that should facilitate the commerce
with* the capital, when, at length, on arriving at
the level tract in which the town was afterwards
built, the soldiers exclaimed, Gracias a Dios, — ' Thank
God, we have found a proper place !' and from this
circumstance it received its name.* The town was
indebted for the rapid increase of its prosperity, to the
* A similar circumstance gave rise to the name of Cape Gracias
a Dios. " Columbus having arrived at Point Casinas in August
1502, kept a westerly course, contending with great difficulty
against the wind and a strong current, until h? weathered a bead-
land stretching far into the sea, and from which the land trends
away to the southward ; he then kept his intended course with
ease. The sailors thanked God for having doubled the cape, and
It then received its appellation." There are many similar instances
of places owing their names to an exclamation, as Olinda, Maran-
ham, and Buenos Ayres  See Mod. Tbav. Brazil, vol ii. p. 306.
PAKT IV. T

296 GUATIMALA.
discovery of some gold mines in its vicinity, in 1544.
The richest of these was that of San Andres de Nueva
Zaragoza, situated in a mountain of the valley of
Sensenti, to the west of the city, and east of the valley
of Copan. Fuentes asserts that, with no other instru
ment than a wooden stake, poor people went to this
mountain, and, by merely scratching up the sand,
found grains of the precious metal. He says, also,
that in a mine belonging to Bartolome Marin de
Sanabria, more than a pound of gold a day was col
lected by the labour of himself and one slave. " The
strongest proof tbat can be adduced of the riches of
this mountain," remarks Juarros, " was the appoint
ment of an alcalde-mayor, for the purpose of superin
tending the working of the mines and receiving
the king's fifths. This officer was invested with
plenary jurisdiction, both in civil and criminal.
matters, within ;the boundaries of the mines, and had
the power of compelling _ fourth part of the Indians
within a circuit Of twelve leagues, to labour in them.
These sources of wealth, that were so famous for more
than a hundred years, are now entirely exhausted,
and the alcaldia is extinguished. Santa Maria de
Comayagua was founded in 1540, with a view to
maintain an easier communication between the two
oceans, its situation being about half-way between
Puerto Caballos and the Bay of Fonseca. In 1544, a
royal order directed, that the new audiencia of the
confines of Guatimala and Nicaragua should reside in
Comayagua, which was thenceforth to be called New
Valladolid ; but this decree was not carried into effect.
In 1557, i* was created a city ; and in 1561, the see
of Truxillo was transferred to it, at the solicitation of
the bishop. It is now the residence of the intendant.
It is situated in a beautiful plain contiguous to a large

GUATIMALA. 297
river (the Ulua), which abounds with excellent fish;
lat. 13° 50' N., and long. 88° 46' W. : the distance
from Guatimala is 144 leagues. San Pedro Zula,
founded by Alvarado in 1536, San Jorge Olanchito,
founded by Diego de Alvarado in 1530, and Sona-
guera, were formerly called cities, and had corpora
tions, but are now entirely decayed. Of San Gil de
Buena Vista, and El Triunfo de la Cruz, founded in
1523, as well as of the town of San Juan, near Puerto
Caballos, settled in 1536, nothing remains but the'
name. Yoro is still a considerable town. The vil
lage of Tencoa is celebrated for a peculiar species
of pepper cultivated in its vicinity ; the valley of
Morolica for its cheese; and that of Copan for its
tobacco. The district of Tegucigalpa contains two towns ;
the one from which it takes its name, and Xeres de la
Frontera. The former is the most populous and
flourishing place in the whole province, and is the
resilience of a deputy-intendant. It stands in a
healthy climate, 25 leagues from Comayagua, and 148
from Guatimala. It contains a spacious church, two
oratories, and two convents, Franciscan and Mer-
cedarian. Xeres is situated in the valley of Cholu-
teca, the most southerly and the hottest place of
all the district, in lat. 12° 50' N., and long. 87° 46' W.
Within its jurisdiction is El Corpus, which has pro
duced more gold than any other place in the kingdom.
This canton is in fact esteemed the richest in the pre
cious metals of any in Guatimala.
On the coast of this province there are six different
ports. The first is Omoa, a bay with good anchorage,
forming a clean, safe, and well-sheltered harbour,
sufficiently capacious to moor twenty or five and
twenty vessels. It is 17 leagues east of the Fresh

298 GUATIMALA.
Gulf, in lat. 15° 23' N. and long. 88° 56' W. Fort
San Fernando Omoa was built in 1775> to protect the
harbour. In 1780, however, the place was taken by
the English, but they soon abandoned it on account of
the unhealthiness of the climate. At a short distance
from the fort is a Village inhabited by negroes, who
are the only persons able to endure the climate.
Three leagues further eastward is Puerto Caballos,
formed by two bays : as its entrance has little more
than two feet water, it is not much frequented.
Puerto de Sal, 37 leagues from the gulf, is very small,
and without good anchorage. Trionfo de la Cruz is
a large bay trending to the south-east, where vessels
Of any size may anchor under shelter of three small
islands, called the Friars. The fifth port is that of
Truxillo, 68 leagues from the Fresh Gulf, formed by
Point Castilla On the N.E., and Point Quetnara on
the S.W., which are six leagues distant from each
other : in the middle of the bay lies the Isla Blanca.
The last is- Puerto Cartdgo, 132 leagues from the Gulf
River, in the territories of the uncivilised Indians.
The principal rivers that fall into the Atlantic, are
the Camalecon, navigable by pWaguas, or large
canoes, for more than fifty leagues, which falls into
the sea twenty-four leagues below the Gulf River ; the
Ulua, 31 leagues from the same point ; the Lean, or
Leones, 46 leagues from the Gulf; the Aguan, 84
leagues E. of the Gulf River, and about 60 miles W.
of Cape Camaron, — it is navigable by canoes about
40 leagues from its mouth. This is the boundary of
Honduras and the territory of Taguzgalpa. Six
leagues further is the Limones, which descends from
the mountains of Olancho el Viejo. Twelve leagues
further is the bar of the Rio Tinto, or Black River.
Half a league to the eastward is the Payas, and

GUATIMALA. 299
the last is the-Platanos, which falls into the Atlantic
about 106 leagues from the Gulf River.* . The Na-
eaome and the Choluteca fall into the Bay of Con-
chagua on the south-western coast.
Eighteen leagues N.E. of Port Truxillo, the Island
of Roatan lies off the coast, extending from forty-five
to fifty miles in length, by from six to ten in breadth.
The approach to it is dangerous,, owing to the reefs
and rocks by which it is surrounded ; but the prin
cipal harbour affords good anchorage, though rather
open to S.W. winds. In the year 1642, this island
was taken by the English, but was abandoned eight
years after. From that time to 1742, it remained
uninhabited,; the Enghsh then again occupied and
fortified it, but were dislodged about 1780. They
resumed possession of it in 1796 ; but, in the following
year, the .Spaniards once more recovered it.
The only object of interest known to exist in this
large province, is the Great Circus of Copan, in the
valley of that name, which, at the time .that Fuentes
wrote (about A.D. 1700), existed entire. It is
described as " a circular space, surrounded by stone
pyramids about six yards high, at the bases of which
are figures, both male and female, habited in the Cas-
tilian costume, of very excellent sculpture, . and
coloured." In the middle of the area, a flight of steps
led to the place of sacrifice. At a short distance is
a stone gateway, on the pillars of which are sculptured
figures, likewise in Spanish habits ; and on entering
* We give these details on the authority of Juarros, as points to
be verified, rather than as actually ascertained. In the map pre
fixed to the English translation, neither the Limones, the Rio
Tinto, the Payas, nor the Platanos, appears under those names :
the only three rivers eastward of the Aguan, and westward of Cape
Gracias a Dios, are named the Yangue, or Guayape, the Bayano,
and the Barbo.

300 GUATIMALA.
this gateway, two fine stone pyramids present them
selves, " from which is suspended a hammock con
taining two human figures, clothed in the Indian
style. Astonishment is forcibly excited on viewing
this structure, because, large as it is, there is no
appearance of the component parts being joined
together ; and, although entirely of stone, and of an
enormous weight, it may be put in motion by the
slightest impulse of the hand. Not far from this ham
mock is the cave of Tibulca, which appears like a
large temple hollowed out of the base of a hill, and
adorned with columns having bases, pedestals, and
capitals : at the sides are numerous windows faced
with stone, exquisitely wrought." All this reads
assuredly very much like romance, but, as it is
part of our object, while recording the discoveries
of former travellers, to point out what it remains
for future travellers to investigate, we should have
been guilty of a great omission had we failed to direct
their attention to this valley of wonders, where the
genii who attended on King Solomon have evidently
been the artists.*
We now proceed to the description of a province
which seems likely to become, in some respects,
the most important in the kingdom, as affording
* The valley of Copan is situated on the boundary line between
the provinces of Chiquimula and Comayagua. The Indian city
of Copan was one of the largest and most populous in the
kingdom. "When the Spaniards arrived before it, it was so well
prepared for defence, as to be able to hold out against a large and
powerful army. On one side it was defended by the mountains of
Chiquimula and Gracias a Dios ; on the opposite side, by a deep
fosse and an intrenchment, formed of strong beams of timber,
having the interstices filled with earth, in which were made em
brasures and loop-holes, through which the besieged discharged
their arrows under cover from the enemy's fire. It was taken
with difficulty by De Chaves. Its site is now entirely deserted.

GUATIMALA. 301
the long-sought-for communication between1 the two
oceans,  -
THE INTENDANCY OF NICARAGUA.
This was the first province subdued by the Spa
niards, having been discovered and partially settled
by Gil Gonzales Davila and his companions in 1522.
It takes its name from a powerful cacique (or perhaps
from his territory), who was one of the first to enter
into amicable relations with the Spaniards, and sub
mit to baptism. It is bounded, on the north and
north-east, by Honduras and Tologalpa ; on the
north-west, by Tegucigalpa; on the south-west and
south, by the Pacific and Costa Rica ; On the east, by
the territory ceded to Colombia, which skirts the
shores of the Atlantic. The intendancy includes five
districts; that of Leon, formerly a distinct government,
and the ancient corregidorships of Realejq, Subtiava,
Matagalpa, and Nicoya. The latter are all very much
reduced in importance { Realejo, Subtiava,' and Ni
coya, more especially, which lie along the shores of
the Pacific, are, from the insalubrity of the climate,
which is both hot and humid, almost depopulated.
The first of these districts contains but three villages
besides the town from which it takes its name, and
(in 1778) a little more than 6,000 inhabitants :' the
last has only one settlement, and a scattered popula
tion scarcely amounting to half that number: The
total population of the intendancy was, in 1778,
107,000 : in 1823, it is computed to have reached
164,400. As the temperature of the whole province
is very hot, it does not produce wheat, but yields ex
cellent grapes and other fruits, cocoa, indigo, cotton,
the gum called corona, and various medicinal drugs.

302 6UATIMALA.
Immense herds of cattle are pastured in the large
grazing-farms, for the consumption not merely of the
province, but of the city of Guatimala also : the soil,
however, is not favourable for breeding sheep.
But the most remarkable feature of this province
is, its numerous rivers and immense lakes. The Lake
of Nicaragua is the largest in the kingdom, and
one of the most extensive in the world, being more
than 150 leagues long from east to west, and nearly
60 miles from north to south ; it has almost
every where a depth of 10 fathoms, with a muddy
bottom, except along the shore, where there is
clear sand. A great number of rivers fall into this
vast basin, but the River San Juan is, according to
Juarros, the only visible outlet; notwithstanding
which, he says, there is no observable indication at
any time of any increase or decrease of its waters.
On the north-west, it communicates with the Lake of
Leon or Managua, which extends upwards of 50 miles
in length by nearly 30 in breadth, by a navigable
channel called the Rio Tipitapd, about 20 miles in
length Tins lake also is said to be throughout of
sufficient depth to receive the largest ships. At twelve
miles distance only from its northern extremity, runs
the river Tosta, which, after a course of twenty miles,
falls into the Pacific Ocean. To form, therefore, a
communication between the two oceans, the only part
actually to be opened, would be tbe twelve miles be
tween the River Tosta and the Lake of Leon.
Humboldt says, there are in the archives of Madrid,
several memoirs, both French and English, on the
possibility of the junction of the Lake of Nicaragua
with the Pacific ; but in none which he had seen, was
the height of the intervening ground sufficiently
cleared up. Upon more recent information, however,

GUATIMALA. 303
it has been ascertained that the difference of level in
the highest part, is not more than fiftyTone feet
above the surface of the Lake of Leon, which is about
three feet higher than that of the River Tosta. Not
more than two locks, therefore, would be required to
render this a perfectly practicable and secure commu
nication. This great achievement appears likely to be at
length realised by the enterprise of British capitalists.
Under the auspices of the local Government, an asso
ciation has already been formed for the purpose of
cutting a ship-canal in this direction, and a bill in
relation to the subject is now in its progress through
parliament. From the prospectus issued by the com
mittee, we obtain the following additional details.
" That the line now spoken of was known to the
Spanish Government, is put beyond doubt ; but, as she
would not, or could not, avail herself of this know
ledge, she with cautious jealousy concealed it from
other nations. It appears from documents discovered
in the hydrographical cabinet of the Spanish minister
of marine, that the most accurate surveys were made
of the whole of central America, and were sent,
accompanied with proper drawings, to Madrid. One
of these, containing an exact description of the spot
most favourable for opening the proposed channel, was
obtained some time ago under particular cir cu instances,
by a gentleman who resided at the court of Madrid,
and it is now in possession of the company. From
this it appears, that, in the Province of Nicaragua, in
10° 10' N. lat., and 82° 15' W. long., the River San
Juan falls into the Atlantic Ocean, after running a
south-east course of 120 miles from the lake Nica
ragua, in which it has its source. This river, in the
rainy season, is navigable from the sea to the lake for
T 2

304 GUATIMALA.
ships of from 200 to 300 tons burthen ; but it may be
rendered navigable for the largest vessels, and suffi
cient depth of water be preserved for them the whole of
the way up. The passage is at present partially ob
structed by certain ships sunk by the Spaniards, to
prevent the intrusion of foreign vessels."
Then, after describing the above-mentioned plan of
communication by means of the River Tosta, the
document proceeds : " Another line of communication
with the Pacific, presents itself also from the Lake of
Leon. On the southern shores of that lake, is situated
the town of Tipitapa. From this town, a canal might
be cut into another river, San Juan, which runs into
the Pacific by the port of that name, in the Gulf of
Papagayo. The distance between the lake and where
the cut would enter the River San Juan, is about
twelve miles, and the whole distance to the Pacific is
not more than thirty. Of this distance, eighteen
miles of the river are already navigable for large

" To point out all the advantages of such a junction
of the two great oceans, would be impossible in the
limits of a prospectus. They would be as various as
the many branches of profitable trade whicb would be
so greatly facilitated, or to which they would give
rise. The intercourse of Europe and America with
the States on the shores of the Pacific, would be en
larged to an incalculable extent ; the South Sea
Trade, the Whale Fisheries of Englahd and America,
the facilities for working the mines in the central Pro
vinces, in Chili, and Peru, would be increased in an
extraordinary degree; the India Trade would likewise
be materially increased, and the voyage to China and
the Philippine Islands shortened by some thousands of
miles. The whole of these trades would

GUATIMALA. 305
BE CARRIED ON THROUGH THE NEW CHANNEL.
The advantages which would accrue to England, in
a political point of view, cannot be overlooked : they
would be of a most important nature, but it is unne
cessary to mention them in detail.
" It may, perhaps, be objected, that some accounts
of the River San Juan have represented it as not navi
gable for ships of any great Size. It is admitted, that
some maps and charts of South America have so
described it; but nothing is more clearly demon
strated than the fallacy of such representations. It
is a well-known fact that the Spaniards prohibited
the navigation of the San Juan, under pain of death,
sunk vessels in different parts of the river, and also
raised a fort for its prevention. It is also well known,
tltat Spain has often wilfully misdescribed the nature
of some of her South American colonies, to prevent the
intrusion of other nations ; and only since the establish
ment of the independence of those countries, could
foreigners land on their shores. An instance of this
kind was experienced not very long ago by Lord Coch
rane. While at the mouth of the river Guayaquil with
part of his fleet, he was boarded by a pilot, who assured
him that the river was not navigable for large vessels.
His lordship, on referring to his maps and charts of
this part of the coast, found this river described as full
of difficulties and dangers, and absolutely unnavigable
for large ships. It was similarly represented by niore
than one English, as well as Spanish geographer.
His lordship inquired what water there was in the
river, and was informed that the depth was four
fathoms. He instantly ordered the pilot to conduct
him up, on pain of immediate death. The terrified
pilot obeyed, and in a short time his lordship cast
anchor abreast of the town of Guayaquil, with his

3Q6 GUATIMALA.
squadron, to the astonishment of the inhabitants, who
saw, for the first time, the guns of a fifty-gun frigate
bearing upon their city. The question is, however,
now set at rest for ever; the information derived
from the survey spoken of, leaving no more doubt
that the San Juan may be easily rendered navigable,
(and for ships of all burdens,) than there exists of the
navigation of the Thames.
" The gentleman by whose skill and address a copy
of the survey was obtained, is one on whom the Com
pany can place the most implicit reliance. They have
availed themselves of his great abilities, and he is now
on his way to central America, to take the preliminary
steps for carrying this important undertaking info
effect. From the estimates which have been made, it
is calculated, that the profits accruing to the company
from the tolls of ships passing and repassing, will be
sufficient, after defraying all expenses, to replace, in
the course of ten years, the original capital, besides
giving in the' interim a considerable dividend,
"Independently of the many other advantages
which she must derive from it, England will have
the glory of achieving a work, which has been eagerly
desired ever since America was discovered, and even
more so since its value to Europe has been correctly
ascertained. In effecting this, she wil' leave to
posterity an additional monument of her great com
mercial enterprise, her industry, and perseverance."
It would be altogether idle for us to offer any com
ment on this statement, as we cannot be expected to
have access to more minute or recent information than
the committee have been enabled to procure. Hum
boldt states, that the coast of Nicaragua is almost in.
accessible in the months of. August, September, and
October, on account of the terrible storms and jains,

GUATIMALA, 307
and, in January and February, on account of the
furious north-east and east-north-east winds called
papagayos. This circumstance, he remarks, is ex
ceedingly inconvenient for navigation. But the same
inconvenience attaches, more or less, to the whole of
the western coast of central America. The port of
Tehuantepec gives its name to the hurricanes which
blow from the north-west, and which deter vessels
from landing at the small ports of Sabinas and Ven-
tosa. The Tehuantepec cut, moreover, if carried into
execution, would not afford a passage to any but
barges or canoes; and this would be the case also
with the projected communication by means pf the
River Chagres, and a canal to be cut from the venta de
Cruces to Panama. Merchandise could be transported
across the isthmus of Darien only in flat-bottomed
boats, unable to keep the sea, and there would require
to be entrepots, at Panama and Porto Bello. There is,
apparently, no room for doubt, that the line of com
munication by the great lakes is by far the most
feasible and advantageous. And, if completely realised,
the distances to India and China would be shortened
more than 10,000 miles !*
The lake of Nicaragua is rendered extremely pic-
* The vulgar notion of a difference between the level of the two
oceans so material as to effect the practicability of the measure, is
Shewn by Humboldt to be without foundation. In' America, the
South Sea is generally supposed to be higher at the isthmus of
Panama, than the Atlantic. Yet, remarks the learned Traveller,
'' when we consider the effect of the current of rotation," or gulf-
stream, " which carries the waters from east to west, and accumu
lates them towards the coast of Costa Rica and Veragua, we are
tempted to suppose, contrary to the received opinion, that the
Atlantic is a little higher than the Pacific." By barometrical
measurements, however, he ascertained, that if there be any dif
ference of level between the two seas, it cannot exceed twenty or
twenty-two feet.— Pol Essay, vol. i. p. 31.

308 GUATIMALA.
turesque by the numerous small islands which stud
its surface. These are all uncultivated and unin
habited, except that of Omotepetl, from which a lofty
mountain shoots up its volcanic peak near the
southern shore of the lake, frequently emitting both
flames and smoke : this island is inhabited, as it is
remarkable that the neighbourhood of a volcano never
fails to be. The lake is subject to tempestuous agi
tations, from heavy gales. Lakes, rivers, and creeks,
and both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, furnish an
inexhaustible supply of various kinds of fish. Exten
sive forests, affording valuable timber, and peopled
with numerous tribes of monkeys, quadrupeds, and
rare birds, skirt the shores of this little Mediterranean,
and on its banks are found some of the most populous
villages in the province. The principal place is the
city of Granada, from which the lake takes the name
more commonly applied to it in Guatimala, where it is
called the lake of Granada. This city was founded in
1523. It stands on the north-western shore, in an
advantageous position for commerce; lat. 11°30'N.,
long. 86° 21' W. ; distance from Leon 30 leagues,
and 216 from Guatimala. It contains a handsome
church and four convents : the Franciscan is one of
the most ancient in the kingdom. The population,
in 1778, consisted of 863 Spaniards and Creoles, 910
Mestizoes, 4,765 Ladinos, and, in an adjoining barrio
or village, about 1,700 Indians.
The place which carries on the largest trade, how
ever, in the whole intendancy, Juarros says, is
Masaya, a large village containing _ population of
6,000 souls, among whom are a few Spaniards. Yet,
the situation, one would have imagined, is one of the
last that would have been voluntarily selected. In
the first place, the scarcity of water is severely, felt.

GUATIMALA. 309
and the inhabitants are forced to draw their only sup
ply from a well of extraordinary depth. The descent
into it is almost perpendicular, but the Indian women
sling their pitchers behind them, and descend by
placing their hands and feet in cavities scooped out in
the rocky sides, with an incredible celerity. Then,
at a short distance from the village, is the volcano of
Masaya, — now, indeed, extinct, but, at the time of the
conquest, known by the name of the Infierno de
Masaya : the light of the lava constantly boiling up
in the crater, might be perceived at sea twenty-five
leagues off. Not far from this is another volcano,
called Nindiri, from which an eruption took place in
1775, when " the torrent of lava that rolled into the
lake of Masaya, destroyed the fish, and heated the
lands which it traversed to so great a degree, that all
the cattle feeding on them perished." *
The city of Leon, the capital of the intendancy, and
the see of a bishop, is situated in _ savanna, about
eight leagues from the western shore of the lake to
which it gives name, and four leagues from the shores
of the Pacific ; lat. 12° 20' N, long. 86° 16' W., and
183 leagues from Guatimala. It was originally
founded in 1523, on the spot now called Old Leon,
but was rebuilt on its present site a few years after.
It contains four churches, three convents, Franciscan,
Mer cedarian, and of San Juan de Dios, a Tridentine
college with eight professorships, a custom-house,
tobacco-factory, post-office, royal treasury, &c, and
a population of between 7 and 8,000 persons, in
cluding upwards of 1,000 Spaniards. The Cortes (of
Cadiz), 1>y a decree of Jan. 1812, granted permission
* Near the city of Nicaragua is said to be another volcano,'
which Humboldt calls Momantobo, but Juarros docs not men
tion it.

310 GUATIMALA.
to the city of Leon to erect a university, with the same
privileges as those enjoyed by the other universities
of Spanish America. By another decree emanating
from the same authority, in the same year, the pro
vince of Nicaragua was privileged to hold a provincial
assembly composed of deputies from the districts of
Leon, Granada, Segovia, Nicaragua, Matagalpa, Ni,
coya, and Costa Rica, which assembly was installed in
Oct. 1813.*
Four leagues to the north-west of Leon, on the
shores of the Pacific, is the town of Realejo, inhabited
entirely by Ladinos, who are employed in ship-build
ing. The town was built in 1534, by the companions
of Alvarado in his expedition to Peru, who, observing
the advantageous situation of the harbour, determined
to establish themselves on a spot so convenient and
promising. Its original name was Jaguei, or Cordon,
and it is said to have received the diminutive appella.
tion of Realejo from the small number of settlers.
The harbour is formed, like that of Guayaquil, by
a large and beautiful river. " There is, perhaps,"
says Juarros, " not a better harbour in the Spanish
monarchy, and there are very few in the known world
superior to it. In the first place, it is capable of con
taining 1,000 vessels commodiously, affording clean
and good anchorage in every part; and ships may
lie close to the shore without the smallest risk or dan
ger ; there is not the most trifling impediment to the
passage in or out,.and new vessels may be launched at
all seasons without the least obstruction. The con.
venience^ for ship-building cannot be surpassed, as
timber, cordage, sail-cloth, pitch, and tar, may be
procured in great abundance ; the supply of masts
* Juarros, p. 338.

GUATIMALA. 311
is inexhaustible. This branch of commerce might be
most advantageously carried on : in fact, a great num,
ber of vessels of all sizes were formerly, constructed
here, and were held in such high estimation, that
Fuentes mentions, that a galleon built in Realejo was
sold at Callao for 100,000 dollars. The harbour could
be placed in a respectable state of defence with the
greatest ease, as a few pieces of cannon mounted in
battery on the islet of Cardon would, from its
eminence, completely command the entrance, and
effectually protect the port. There was formerly
a different channel into the harbour from the one now
used. Originally, the passage was between the point of
the Isle of Cardon and the peninsula of Castanon, and
ships proceeded up the river to the landing-place at a
village called Nuestra Senora del Viejo ; but the fall
of immense quantities of ropk, both from the Isle
of Cardon and the point of Castanon, during a violent
earthquake, has made this passage impracticable. The
present channel lies between the north point of
Cardon and the isle of Icacos, whence vessels have
a clear course, and may run up with their bowsprits
almost into the town." At a short distance is the
village of the Viejo, where the corregidors have
resided, on account of its more healthy situation : it
contains upwards of 3,000 inhabitants, and is, more
over, resorted to on certain holydays.by devout pil
grims from all parts, on account of an inestimable
bijou,  an image of Nuestra Senora, which was
once the property of the immaculate virgin Santa
Theresa !
The whole of this tract of coast is low. That
of Nicoya, in the south-eastern extremity of the pro
vince, is covered at full tide. The road from Realejo
to Leon, passes for twenty miles across a flat country,

312 GUATIMALA.
covered with mangle-trees.* The only other places
of any consideration in the intendancy are, Segovia
Nueva, situated on the River Yare, near the confines
of Tegucigalpa, 30 leagues north of Granada ; Nica
ragua, 12 leagues S.E. of Granada, inhabited chiefly
by Spaniards, who carry on a traffic in cocoa, with an
Indian village adjoining ; Esteli ; Acoyapa ; Villa
Nueva ; (all these are in the district of Leon ;) Sub-
iava, a very populous Indian village, contiguous to
the city of Leon ; and Nicoya.
Of the numerous rivers which water this province,
Juarros enumerates, as the most important, the Creek
del Viejo (or Realejo River), the River of Nicaragua,^
the Alvarado, and the Nicoya, among those which
fall into the Pacific ; and the Pontasma,J the Mos
quito, the Gold River, the Iron River, and the great
River San Juan, which discharge their waters into the
Atlantic. The Nicoya separates this province from
that of COSTA RICA.
• " A name," remarks Juarros, " which at present
seems continued to it only in irony, as it is more poor
. *. Dampier cited by Humboldt.
t This is called, in the map, the Rio de Partido, and it is repre
sented as communicating, by one of its branches, with the lake,
while the other falls into the Gulf of Papagayo. If so, there
would already be a water communication between the two oceans.
But this branch has disappeared in more recent maps, and is sup
posed to be an error. In fact, it is in contradiction to Juarros's
own statement, that the lake of Nicaragua has no outlet but tlie
San Juan.
t This is called, in the map, the River Vare, or Segovia. It
rises in the jurisdiction of that city, and being joined by several
tributaries, becomes a stream of considerable magnitude by the
time it reaches the Atlantic, where it forms a small harbour near
the false Cape Gracias a Dios.

GUATIMALA. 313
and destitute than any other." The name of rich
coast was given to it, however, on account of the
rich mines which it contains, of gold, silver, and
copper. " From the mine called Tisingal," Alcedo
Says, " not less riches have been extracted than from
that of Potosi in Peru." At the period, too, that
Porto Bello was the rendezvous of the galleons, the
commerce of the province was in a most flourishing
state. The whole of it was well-peopled, the arable
lands were in a good state of cultivation, and the
pastures were covered with cattle, horses, and- mules,
in which a considerable trade %vas carried on with
Carthagena and Porto Bello from the harbour of
Matina, and with Panama and other ports of the
Pacific from La Caldera. Its prosperity and riches
soon excited the cupidity of adventurers. In 1666,
a descent was made on the coast by some pirates,
whose numbers amounted to 1,200 men; but they
were defeated and driven back by the Spaniards and
their celestial allies, headed by the Virgin in person,
whose image continued to be honoured by an annual
procession in acknowledgement of the victory, up to
the beginning of the present century. A few years
afterwards, the pirates of the Pacific, on two several
occasions, attacked the city of Esparza, plundered
it, and set it on fire. So completely was it ruined,
that the inhabitants abandoned it. On the coasts
of the Atlantic, many attempts were made with
various success by the Buccaneers ; and the Mosco
Indians made frequent incursions by the harbour
of Matina, carrying off cocoa, slaves, or whatever else
they could lay their hands on. These incessant
and harassing hostilities appear to have led, in con
nexion with other circumstances, to the present
depopulated and neglected state of . the province.

314 GUATIMALA.
" Whatever might once have been its importance,"
says Juarros, " it is very certain that, at the present
time, its condition is very deplorable : the population
is reduced almost to nothing, commerce is annihilated,
and the mines are no longer worked. In fact, a
province that, in many respectB, merits particular
attention, is now so much neglected, that none of the
writers of this kingdom, or foreigners, take any notice
of it. It extends from the Rio del Salto,* which
separates it from Nicaragua, to the distriot of Chi.
riqui, in the jurisdiction of Veraguas, a distance
of 160 leagues from west to east ; and from the
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, from north to south,
about 60 leagues. Its limit, on the Atlantic, is from
the mouth of the River San Juan to the little island
called the Escudo de Veraguas ; aud on the Pacific,
from the River Alvarado, the boundary of the pro
vince of Nicaragua, to the River Boruca, which
terminates the kingdom of Terra Firma to the west
ward. The climate is for the most part warm, but in
some places it is very temperate ; the soil yields
cocoa, tobacco, and other productions of warm
climates ; wheat, and such other articles as are
peculiar to colder regions, are raised in the moun
tainous parts ; but all in scanty proportions from the
want of hands for agricultural employments. There
are mines of gold, silver, and copper, but they are
scarcely more productive than the surface of the soil
is. On the Pacific there is a harbour, that of Caldera,
or Esparza ; and another on the Atlantic, Matina, or
the bar of Carpintero, formed by the rivers BarbiUa
and Chirripo, which unite four leagues above the sea.

* We presume that this is the same river as the Nicoya, which
is just before stated to be the boundary.

GUATIMALA. 315
The rivers Ximenes, Rebenta_on, and Moin, dis
charge themselves into the Atlantic ; they have suffi
cient depth of water to admit the piraguas eight or
ten leagues inland. The Alvarado, the Rio Grande;
and the Boruca, with several others pf less note, de
scend into the Pacific. Within the government of
Costa Rica there are 1 city, 3 towns, and 10 villages,
containing together about 30,000 inhabitants, — a
small proportion, compared with the territorial ex
tent of it, and a great diminution of its ancient num
bers. In the early periods of the Spanish occupancy,
there were a governor and four corregidors, who had
their residences in Quipo, Chirripo, Ujarraz, and the
four villages contiguous to Cartago : the Jurisdiction
of the first extended to the coast ofthe South Sea, that
of the second to the Atlantic, and the two others were
intermediate. These corregimientos were abolished
more than a century ago, and of many of the villages
belonging to them, there are no vestiges remaining."
Since the time that this was written, some im
provement has probably taken place in the state of
things, as the present amount of the population of
Costa Rica is computed to be nearly 38,000, although
we know not whether the calculation rests on any
certain data. The chief city, said to be the most an
cient in the kingdom, is Cartago, situated in the heart
of the province, 80 leagues from the boundary of Nica
ragua, the same distance from Terra Firma, 30
leagues from Esparza, about as many from Matina,
and 400 leagues E.S.E. from Guatimala ; it is in lat.
Q° 1C, and long. 82° 46' W. It stands in a healthy
situation, and enjoys a benignant climate ; contains a
church, a Franciscan convent, a sanctuary, and two
oratories ; and has a population of upwards of 8,000
persons, viz. 600 Spaniards, 6,000 Mestizoes, and

316 GUATIMALA.
1,700 Ladinos. Next to the capital, the most popu
lous town is Villa Nueva de San Jose, situated in a
vaUey at a short distance from Cartago : it contains a
population very nearly equal in numbers, with three
times as large a proportion of Spaniards. Villa Vieja
has 6,660 inhabitants, of whom 1,800 are Spaniards,
and 4,000 Mestizoes : Villa Hermosa, included in the
same curacy, has a population of 4,000 persons.
Ujarraz is now a place of very trifling consequence.
Espera za, and the neighbouring town of Bagases, are
entirely abandoned.
Should the " Atlantic and Pacific Company " suc
ceed in completing their undertaking, this important
province will no doubt reap essential advantages from
the impulse which wiU be communicated to commerce
and every internal improvement. It is one, object
which the Company have in view, to enter into con
tracts for working the valuable mines with which
these regions are ascertained to abound. Yet, till
now, who had ever heard of the mines of Guatimala ?
In Humboldt's general table of the annual produce of
the mines, &c. of Spanish America, against Guatimala
is written, " Nothing."* The total value of goods
imported from the Old Continent into this kingdom,
is stated at only two millions, of piasters, while the
imports of New Spain are estimated at twenty mil
lions, and those of Cuba and Porto Rico at eleven
miUions ! In the captaincy-general of Guatimala, as
well as those of Caraccas, Chile, and Cuba, the whole
receipts of the treasury were consumed by the ex
penses of administration, so that the mother country
actuaUy derived no net revenue from those colonies,*
But the system which so long condemned these
* Pol. Essay, voL iv.' p. 322.

GUATIMALA. 317
fine countries to remain stationary in civilisation, and
morally as well as politically unproductive, exists no
longer : the sovereignty of Spain in that hemisphere
has received its last blow from the hands of Bolivar,
In the recent message of the Vice-President of
Colombia to the Congress of 1825, assembled at Bogota,
it is noticed, that " the provinces of Guatimala con
tinue to preserve unmolested the sovereignty into
which they spontaneously elected themselves. An
accredited minister from that Government to the.
Republic is now," it is added, " residing in our capi
tal." The message proceeds to advert to the necessity.
of adjusting and establishing the still undetermined
limits between Colombia and Guatimala, " inasmuch
as certain foreigners have pretended to a right to the
coast of Mosquito, and as the interior bpundary line
between the two countries is not ascertained." " The
Executive, (it is added,) in strict compliance with the
law of the 12th of July, 1821, has declared that that
part of the Atlantic coast which extends from Cape
Gracias a Dios to the River Chagres, belongs to the
Republic, and that all colonisation made therein
without the sanction of the government and laws of
Colombia, is null and void." Should this line of
coast, however, be definitely annexed to Colombia, it
wiU of course place under the control of that republic
the navigation of the River San Juan, and conser
quently of the lakes and the intended ship-canaL It
will amount, in fact, to little short of a cession of the
whole of Costa Rica, and the greater part of Nicaragua.
* Pol. Essay, vol. iv. p. 204.

318 GUATIMALA.
To revert to the subject of mines. The produce of
those of Mexico, when Humboldt wrote his Political
Essay, had tripled in fifty-two years, and sextupled in
a hundred years ; * and it will admit, he remarks, of
greater increase as the country shall become more
populous, and industry and information become more
diffused. Sir William Adams, in a recent pamphlet
on the Actual State of the Mexican Mines, maintains
that the Anglo-Mexican Associations may reasonably
expect to raise treble the quantity of ore formerly ob
tained, by working them scientifically, and by the aid
of machinery. The expenses of working them, no
doubt, admit of being reduced to a great degree. By
the very imperfect process of amalgamation hitherto
adopted, the loss in mercury alone is stated to have
amounted to an eighth or even a sixth of the produce.
At Freiberg, Humboldt says, they employ from 60 to
150 times less time in extracting the silver, than in
the Spanish colonies, and consume in amalgamation
* The quantity of gold and silver imported into Europe from
America between the years 1492 and 1803, is calculated to amount
to 1,166,775,322!. Bterling. Till _525j Europe had received from
the New World little else than gold. From that period till the
discovery of the mines of Brazil, towards the end of the seven
teenth century, the silver imported exceeded the importation of
gold in the proportion of 60 or 65 to 1. In the first half of the
eighteenth century, the mines of Brazil, Chill, Choco, <_c, fur
nished so considerable a quantity of gold, that the proportion was
scarcely 30 to 1. During the latter half of the last century, the
silver again increased in the market ; the annual produce of the
mines of Mexico rose from 600,000 marcs to 2,900,000; and,
as the produce of gold did not increase in the same proportion, the
quantity imported of the two precious metals was as 1 to 40. The
mines of Mexico have counterbalanced the effects which the
abundance ofthe gold of Brazil would have produced. The East
Indies and China are the countries which have absorbed the greater
part of the gold and silver extracted from the mines of America.

GUATIMALA. 319
eight times less mercury. It has been experimentally
ascertained, Sir W. Adams says, that the Mexican
ores admit of being most beneficially reduced by the
same processes that are employed for the reduction of
the tin ores in Cornwall. Mr. Moyle, an experienced
mining engineer, who has been sent out to Mexico by
the Anglo-Mexican Mining Association, reports that,
" should it be found advisable to employ the process
of amalgamation, (in consequence either of a scarcity
of fuel, or from some species of the ores requiring to
be amalgamated with quicksilver, in order to extract
aU the silver,) — this process, which costs the Mexicans
the labour of from two to five months, may be better
effected in six hours ; while Mr. Perkins has discovered
a method of separating the two metals with scarcely
any loss of quicksilver."
Should these calculations prove accurate, the favour.
able opinion lately expressed by Baron Humboldt is
likely to be verified ; that the mining operations
about to be undertaken by British capitalists could
not fail to be the most important and lucrative under
taking that had yet been entered into. But it may
possibly occur to the reader to inquire, whether the
interests of society would not be placed in jeopardy by
the rapid increase of the quantity of specie which
may thus be anticipated, — whether a depreciation of
the precious metals must not ensue, which will occa
sion a relative rise in the value of all other commo
dities, and materiaUy affect aU existing contracts.
The learned Traveller above named, maintains that
the danger is not so great as it appears on a first view,
because the quantity of commodities which enter into
commerce, increases with the augmentation of the
currency which represents them. " The price of
grain, it is true," he says, " has tripled since the
part iv. ti

320 GUATIMALA.
treasures of the New Continent were poured into the
Old. This rise, which was not felt till the middle of
the sixteenth century, took place suddenly between
1570 and 1595, when the silver of Mexico began
to flow through all parts of Europe. But, between
that memorable period in the history of commerce and
the year 1636, the discovery of the mines of America
produced its whole effect on the reduction of the
value of money. The price of grain has not in reality
risen to the present day; and if the contrary has
been advanced by several authors, it is from their
having confounded the nominal value of coin with
the true proportion between money and commodities."
It would be foreign from our object to pursue this
inquiry, which is, however, a most important one.
The first effect which might be expected to ensue from
the present undertakings, is, the depreciation of silver
relative to gold, unless the mines of Brazil shaU,
under the same improved management, be made to
furnish a correspondent produce. But such deprecia
tion is, perhaps, more likely to affect the profits of the
miner, than to produce any material effect on the
currency.

END OF GUATIMALA.

LONDON :
fJllNT-O EV J. MOVES, _OUV_ni_ STREET.

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