»lllllllllllllhimiVln!yffi7iYLIBf,ARY ! 1 3 9002 05423 5859 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ow Marcus Whitman Saved Oregon. A TRUE ROMANCE OF PATRIOTIC HEROISM, CHRISTIAN DEVOTION AND FINAL MARTYRDOM WITH SKETCHES OF Life on the Plains and Mountains in Pioneer Daus BY OLIVER W. NIXON, M.D., LL.D., For Seventeen Years President and Literary Editor of the Chicago Inter Ocean. INTRODUCTION BY Rev. Frank W. Gunsaulus, D.D., LL.D* FIFTH EDITION ILLUSTRATED, CHICAGO, STAR PUBLISHING COMPANY 1896. Copyrighted, 1895, by Oliver W. Nixon. (All rights reserved.) Cv23.Z'j( t DEDICATION. TO THE BOYS AND GIRLS OF THE Little Log School House on the Willamette, NOW THE GRAY HAIRED MEN AND WOMEN OF OREGON, WASHINGTON, IDAHO AND CALIFORNIA, TO WHOM I AM INDEBTED FOR A MULTITUDE OF PLEASING MEMORIES WHICH HAVE BEEN UNDIMMED BY YEARS AND DISTANCE, I GRATE FULLY DEDICATE THIS VOLUME. O^WM* PREFACE. This little volume is not intended to be a history of Oregon missions or even a complete biography of Dr. Whitman. Its aim is simply to bring out, prominently, in a series of sketches, the heroism and Christian patriotism of the man who rendered great and distinguished service to his country, which has never been fully appreciated or recog nized. In my historical facts I have tried to be correct and to give credit to authorities where I could. I expect some of my critics will ask, as they have in the past : "Who is your authority for this fact and that?" I only answer, I don't know unless I am authority. In 1850 'and 1851 1 was a teacher of the young men and maidens, and bright-eyed boys and girls of the old pioneers of Oregon. Many years' ago I told the story of that school to Hezekiah Butterworth, who made it famous in his idyllic romance, "The Log School House on the Columbia." It was a time when history was being made. The great tragedy at Waiilatpui was fresh in the minds of the people. With such surround ings one comes in touch with the spirit of history. 6 PREFACE. Later on, I was purser upon the Lot Whitcomb, the first steamer ever built in Oregon, and came in contact with all classes of people. If I have failed to interpret the history correctly, it is because I failed to understand it. The sketches have been written in hours snatched from pressing duties, and no claim is made of high literary excellence. But if they aid the public, even in a small degree, to better understand and appreciate the grand man whose remains rest in his martyr's grave at Waiilatpui, unhonored by any monument, I shall be amply compensated. O. W. N. CONTENTS. Pages. Introduction 11-14 CHAPTER I. The Title of the United States to Oregon— The Hudson Bay Company — The Louisiana Purchase 15-37 CHAPTER II. English and American Opinion of the Value of the Northwest Territory — The Neglect of American Statesmen 38-49 CHAPTER III. The Romance of the Oregon Mission 50-62 CHAPTER IV. The Wedding Journey Across the Plains 63-82 CHAPTER V. Mission Life at Waiilatpui 83-98 CHAPTER VI. The Ride to Save Oregon 99-123 CHAPTER VII. Whitman in the Presence of President Tyler and Secre tary of State Daniel Webster — The Return to Oregon 124-164 CHAPTER VIII. A Backward Look at Results 165-185 8 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Change in Public Sentiment 186-200 CHAPTER X. The Failure of Modern History to do Justice to Dr. Whitman 201-216 CHAPTER XI. The Massacre at Waiilatpui 217-237 CHAPTER XII. Biographical— Dr. Whitman— Dr. McLoughlin 238-249 CHAPTER XIII. Whitman Seminary and College 250-262 CHAPTER XIV. Oregon Then, and Oregon, Washington and Idaho Now. 263-276 CHAPTER XV. Life on the Great Plains in Pioneer Days 277-304 Appendix 305-339 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. 1. Whitman Leaving Home on His Ride to Save Oregon Frontispiece. 2. Falls of the Willamette 32 3. Map of Early Oregon and the West, Showing Whit man's Route, etc 41 4. Steamer Lot Whitcomb 56 5. Dr. Marcus Whitman 72 6. Mission Station at Waiilatpui 88 7. Whitman Pleading for Oregon before President Tyler and Secretary Webster 128 8. Rev. H. H. Spalding 144 9. Rev. Cushing Eells, D. D 160 10 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. 10. Whitman College 176 11. Whitman's Grave 224 12. Dr. John McLoughlin 248 13. Dr. Daniel K. Pearsons 264 14. Rev. S. B. L. Penrose, President of Whitman College. 272 15. The Log School House on the Willamette 280 16. A. J. Anderson, Ph. D 296 17. Rev. James F. Eaton, D. D 296 18. Portraits of Flathead Indians Who Visited St. Louis. 313 INTRODUCTION BY REV. FRANK W. GUNSAULUS, D. D„ Pastor of Plymouth Church, and President of Armour Institute, Chicago. Among the efforts at description which will as sociate themselves with either our ignorance pr our intelligence as to our own country, the follow ing words by our greatest orator, will always have their place: "What do we want with the vast, worthless area, this region of savages and wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, of cactus and prairie dogs? To what use could we ever hope to put these great deserts, or these endless mountain ranges, impenetrable, and covered to their base with eternal snow ? What can we ever hope to do with the Western coast, a coast of three thousand miles, rock-bound, cheerless, and uninviting, and not a harbor on it? What use have we for such a country? Mr. President, I will never vote one cent from the public treasury to place the Pacific coast one inch nearer to Boston than it is now." Perhaps no words uttered in the United States Senate were ever more certainly wide of their mark than these of Daniel Webster. In their pres ence, the name of Marcus Whitman is a bright streak of light penetrating a vague cloud-land. Washington, with finer prevision, had said: "I shall not be contented until I have explored the Western country." Even the Father of his Country did not understand the vast realm to which he referred, nor had his mind any bounda ries sufficiently great to inclose that portion of the 12 INTRODUCTION. country which Marcus Whitman preserved to the United States. An interesting series of splendid happenings has united the ages of history in heroic deeds, and this volume is a fitting testimonial of the immense significance of one heroic deed in one heroic life. The conservatism, which is always respectable and respected, had its utterance in the copious elo quence of Daniel Webster; the radicalism, which always goes to the root of every question, had its expression in the answer which Whitman made to the great New Englander. Even Daniel Webster,^ at a moment like this, seems less grand of proportion than does the plain and poor missionary, with "a half pint of seed wheat" in his hand, and words upon his lips which are an enduring part of our history. Only a really illumined man, at that hour, could fitly answer Senator McDuffie, when he said: "Do you think your honest farmers in Pennsylvania, New York, or even Ohio and Missouri, would abandon their farms and go upon any such enterprise as this?" Whitman made answer by breaking the barrier of the Rockies with his own courage and faith. It may well be hoped that such a memorial as this may be adopted in home and public library as a chapter in Americanism and its advance, worthy to minister to the imagination and ideal ism of our whole people. The heroism of the .days to come, which we need, must grow out of the heroism of the days that have been. The impulse to do and dare noble things to-morrow, will grow strong from contemplating the memory of such yesterdays. This volume has suggested such a picture as INTRODUCTION. 13 will sometime be made as a tribute to genius and the embodiment of highest art by some great painter. The picture will represent the room in which the old heroic missionary, having traveled over mountains and through deserts until his clothing of fur was well-nigh worn from him, and his frame bowed by anxiety and exposure, at that instant when the great Secretary and orator said to him: "There cannot be made a wagon road over the mountains; Sir George Simpson says so," whereat the intrepid pioneer replied: "There is a wagon road, for I have made it." What could be a more fitting memorial for such a man as this than a Christian college called Whit man College? He was more to the ulterior North west than John Harvard has ever been to the Northeast of our common country. Nothing but such an institution may represent all the ideas and inspirations which were the wealth of such a man's brain and heart and his gift to the Re public. He was an arant courier of the truths on which alone republics and democracies may endure. Whitman not only conducted the expedition of men and wagons to Oregon, after President Tyler had made his promise that the bargain, which Daniel Webster proposed, should not be made, but he led an expedition of ideas and senti ments which have made the names Oregon, Wash ington and Idaho synonymous with human prog ress, good government and civilization. When the soldier-statesman of the Civil War, Col. Baker, mentioned the name and memory of Marcus Whit man to Abraham Lincoln, he did it with the ut most reverence for one of the founders of that 14 INTRODUCTION. civilization which, in the far Northwest, has spread its influence over so vast a territory to make the mines of California the resources of freedom, and to bind the forests and plains with the destiny of the Union. When Thomas Starr King was most eloquent in his efforts to keep California true to liberty and union, in that struggle of debate before the Civil War opened, he worked upon the basis, made larger and sounder by the fearless ambassador of Christian civilization. In an hour when the mind of progress grows tired of the perpetual presence of Napoleon, again clad in all his theatrical glamour before the eyes of youth, we may well be grateful for this sketch of a sober far-seeing man of loyal devotion to the great public ends; whose unselfishness made him seem, even then, a -start ling figure at the nation's capital; whose noble bearing, great faith, supreme courage, and vision of the future, mark him as a genuine and typical American. These hopes and inspirations are all enshrined in the educational enterprise known as Whitman College. Every student of history must be glad to recognize the fact that the history of which this book is the chronicle, is also a prophecy, and that whatever may be the fate of men's names or men's schemes in the flight of time, this college will be a beacon, shining with the light of Marcus Whit man's heroism and devotion. CHAPTER I. THE TITLE OF THE UNITED STATES TO OREGON— THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY— THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE. The home of civilization was originally in the far East, but its journeys have forever been west ward. The history of the world is a great pano rama, with its pictures constantly shifting and changing. The desire for change and new fields early asserted itself. The human family divided up under the law of selection and affinities, shaped themselves into bands and nationalities, and started upon their journey to people the world. Two branches of the original stock remained as fixtures in Asia, while half a dozen branches deployed and reached out for the then distant and unexplored lands of the West. They reached Europe. The Gaul and the Celt, the Teuton and Slav, ever onward in their march, reached and were checked by the Atlantic that washed the present English, German and Spanish coasts. The Latin, Greek and Illyrian were alike checked by 16 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the Mediterranean. For a long period it seemed as if their journey westward was ended; that they had reached their Ultima Thule; that the western limit had been found. For many centuries the millions rested in that belief, until the great discoveries of 1492 awak ened them to new dreams of western possibilities. At once and under new incentives the westward march began again. The States of the Atlantic were settled and the wilderness subdued. No sooner was this but partially accomplished than the same spirit, "the western fever," seized upon the people. It seems to have been engrafted in the nature of man, as it is in the nature of birds, to migrate. In caravan after caravan they pushed their way over the Allegheny Mountains, invaded the rich valleys, floated down the great rivers, gave battle to the savage inhabitants and in perils many, and with discouragements sufficient to defeat less heroic characters, they took possession of the now great States of the Middle West. The country to be settled was so vast as to seem to our fa thers limitless. They had but little desire as a nation for further expansion. Up to the date of 1792, the Far West was an unexplored region. The United States made no claim to any lands bordering upon the Pacific, and the discovery made in the year 1792 was more GRAY DISCOVERS THE COLUMBIA. 17 accidental than intentional, as far as the nation was concerned. Captain Robert Gray, who made the discovery, was born in Tiverton, R. I., 1755, and died at Charleston, S. C„ in 1806. He was a famous sailor, and was the first citizen who ever carried the American flag around the globe. His vessel, The Columbia, was fitted out by a syndicate of Boston merchants, with articles for barter for the natives in Pacific ports. In his second great voyage in 1792 he discovered the mouth of the Columbia river. There had been rumors of such a great river through Spanish sources, and the old Ameri can captain probably, mainly for the sake of bar ter and to get fresh supplies, had his nautical eyes open. Men see through a glass darkly and a wiser, higher power than man may have guided the old explorer in safety over the dangerous bar, into the great river he discovered and named. He was struck by the grandeur and magnificence of the river as well as by the beauty of the country. He at once christened it "The Columbia," the name of his good ship which had already carried the American flag around the globe. He sailed sev eral miles up the river, landed and took possession in the name of the United States. It is a singular coincidence that both Spain and England had vessels just at this time on this 18 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. coast, hunting for the same river, and so near to gether as to be in hailing distance of each other. Captain Gray only a few days before had met Cap tain Vancouver, the Englishman, and had spoken to him. Captain Vancouver had sailed over the very ground passed over soon after by Gray, but failed to find the river. He had noted, too, a change in the color of the waters, but it did not sufficiently impress him to cause an investigation. After Captain Gray had finished his explora tion and gone to sea, he again fell in with Van couver and reported the result of his discoveries. Vancouver immediately turned about, found the mouth of the river, sailed up the Columbia to the rapids and up the Willamette to near the falls. In the conference between the English and Americans in 1827, which resulted in the renewal of the treaty of 1818, while the British commis sioners acknowledged that Gray was first to dis cover and enter the Columbia river, yet they de manded that "he should equally share the honor with Captain Vancouver." They claimed that while Gray discovered the mouth of the river, he only sailed up it a few miles, while "Captain Van couver made a full and complete discovery." One of the authorities stated concisely that, "Captain Gray's claim is limited to the mouth of the river." This limit was in plain violation of the rules regulating all such events, and no country knew CLAIMS OF THE UNITED STATES TO OREGON. 19 it better than England. Besides, it was Captain Gray's discovery, told to the English commander Vancouver, which made him turn back on his course to rediscover the same river. The claim that the English made, that "Captain Gray made but a single step in the progress of discovery," in the light of these facts, marks their claims as re markably weak. The right of discovery was then the first claim made by the United States upon Oregon. The second was by the Louisiana purchase from France in 1803. This was the same territory ceded from France to Spain in 1762 and returned to France in 1800, and sold to the United States for $15,000,000 in 1803, "with all its rights and ap purtenances, as fully and in the same manner as they were acquired by the French Republic." There has always been a dispute as to how far into the region of the northwest this claim of the French extended. In the sale no parallels were given; but it was claimed that their rights reached to the Pacific Ocean. Dr. Barrows says, "If, however, the claims of France failed to reach the Pacific on the parallel of 49 degrees, it must have been because they encountered the old claims of Spain, that preceded the Nootka treaty and were tacitly conceded by England. Between the French claims and the Spanish claims there was left no territory for England to base a claim 20 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. on. If the United States did not acquire through to the Pacific in the Louisiana purchase, it was because Spain was owner of the territory prior to the first, second and third transfers. It is dif ficult to perceive standing ground for the English in either of the claims mentioned. The claim of England that the Nootka treaty of 1790 abrogated the rights of Spain to the terri tory of Oregon, which she then held, is untenable, from the fact that no right of sovereignty or juris diction was conveyed by that treaty. Whatever right Spain had prior to that treaty was not dis turbed, and all legal rights vested in Spain were still in force when she ceded the territory to France in 1800, and also when France ceded the same to the United States in 1803. The third claim of the United States was by the commission sent out by Jefferson in 1803, when Lewis and Clarke and their fellow voyagers struck the headwaters of the Columbia and followed it to its mouth and up its tributary rivers. The fourth was the actual settlement of the Astor Fur Company at Astoria in 1811. True it was a private enterprise, but was given the sanc tion of the United States and a U. S. naval officer was allowed to command the leading vessel in Astor's enterprise, thus placing the seal of nation ality upon it. True the town was captured and the effects confiscated in 1812 by the British CLAIMS OF THE UNITED STATES TO OREGON. 21 squadron of the Pacific, commanded by Captain Hillyar, but the fact of actual settlement by Americans at Astoria, even for a short time, had its value in the later argument. In the treaty of Ghent with England in 1814, Astoria, with all its rights, was ordered to be restored to its original owners, but even this was not consummated until 1846. America's fifth claim was in her treaty with Spain in 1818, when Spain relinquished any and all claims to the territory in dispute to the United States. The sixth and last claim was from Mexico, by a treaty in 1828, by which the United States ac quired all interest Mexico claimed, formerly in common with Spain, but now under her own gov ernment. Such is a brief statement, but I trust a sufficient one, lor an intelligent understanding of the ques tions of ownership. It will be seen that the United States was vested in all the rights held over Oregon by every other power except one, that of Great Britain. Her claim rested, as we have seen, in the fact that "Captain Gray only discovered the mouth of the river," but did not survey it to the extent that the English Captain Vancouver did, after being told by Gray of his discovery. They also made claims of settlement by their Fur Company, just as the 22 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. United States did by the settlement made by Astor and others. As the Hudson Bay Company and the Northwest Fur Company of Montreal figure so ex tensively in the contest for English ownership of Oregon, it is well to have a clear idea of their ori gin and power. The Hudson Bay Company was organized in 1670 by Charles II., with Prince Rupert, the King's cousin, at its head, with other favorites of his Court. They were invested with remarkable pow ers, such as had never before, nor have since, been granted to a corporation. They were granted ab solute proprietorship, with subordinate sover eignty, over all that country known by name of "Rupert's Land" including all regions "discovered or undiscovered within the entrance to Hudson Strait." It was by far the largest of all English de pendencies at that time. For more than a century the company confined its active operations to a coast traffic. The original stock of this company was $50,820. During the first fifty years the capital stock was increased to $457,000 wholly out of the profits, be sides paying dividends. During the last half of the 17th century the Northwest Fur Company became a formidable opponent to the Hudson Bay Company, and the rivalry and great wealth of both companies served THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 23 to stimulate them to reach out toward the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. After Canada had become an English depend ency and the competition had grown into such proportions as to interfere with the great monop oly, in the year 1821, there was a coalition between the Northwest and the Hudson Bay Companies on a basis of equal value, and the consolidated stock was marked at $1,916,000, every dollar of which was profits, as was shown at the time, ex cept the original stock of both companies, which amounted to about $135,000. And yet during all this period there had been made an unusual divi dend to stockholders of 10 per cent. Single vessels from headquarters carried furs to London valued at from three to four hundred thousand dollars. .It is not at all strange that a company which was so rolling in wealth and which was in supreme control of a territory reach ing through seventy-five degrees of longitude, from Davis Strait to Mt. Saint Elias, and through twenty-eight degrees of latitude, from the mouth of the Mackenzie to the California border, should hold tenaciously to its privileges. It was a grand monopoly, but it must be said of it that no kingly power ever ruled over savage subjects with such wisdom and discretion. Of necessity, they treated their savage workmen kindly, but they managed to make them fill the 24 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. coffers of the Hudson Bay Company with a wealth of riches, as the years came and went. Their lives and safety and profits all depended upon keeping their dependents in a good humor and binding them to themselves. The leading men of the com pany were men of great business tact and shrewd ness, and one of their chief requisites was to thor oughly understand Indian character. They managed year by year so to gain con trol of the savage tribes that the factor of a trad ing post had more power over a fractious band, than could have been exerted by an army of men with guns and bayonets. If, now and then, a chief grew sullen and belligerent, he was at once quietly bought up by a judicious present, and the company got it all back many times over from the tribe, when their furs were marketed. It was the refusal of the missionaries of Oregon to condone crime and wink at savage methods, as the Hudson Bay Company did, which first brought about misunderstanding and unpleasantness, as we shall see in another place. It was this power and controlling influence which met the pioneer fur traders and mission aries, upon entering Oregon. They controlled the savage life and the white men there were wholly dependent upon them. In 1811 an American fur company at Astoria undertook to open business upon what they re- THE TREATY OF 1818. 25 garded as American soil. They had scarcely set tled down to work when the war of 1812, began and they were speedily routed. In 1818 a treaty was made, which said, "It is agreed that any country that may be claimed by either party on the Northwest coast of America westward of the Stony Mountains shall, together with its harbors, bays, creeks and the navigation of all rivers within the same, be free and open for ten years from the date of the signature of the present convention, to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two powers; it being well under stood that the agreement is not to be construed to the prejudice of any claim which either of the two high contracting parties may have to any part of said country; nor shall it be taken to affect the claims of any other power or state to any of said country; the only object of the high contracting parties in that respect being to prevent disputes and differences among themselves." That looked fair and friendly enough. But how did the Hudson Bay Company carry it out? They went on just as they had done before, gov erning to suit their own selfish interests. They froze out and starved out every American fur company that dared to settle in any portion of their territory. They fixed the price of every com modity, and had such a hold on the various tribes 26 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. that a foreign company had no chance to live and prosper. It so continued until the ten-year limit was nearly up, when in 1827 the commission repre senting the two powers met and re-enacted the treaty of 1818, which went into effect in 1828. It was a giant monopoly, but dealing as it did with savage life, and gathering its wealth from sources which had never before contributed to the world's commerce, it was allowed to run its course until it came in contact with the advancing civilization of the United States, and was worsted in the conflict. With the adoption of the Ashburton treaty the Hudson Bay Company was shorn of much of its kingly power and old time grandeur. But it re mained a money-making organization. Under the terms of the treaty the great corporation was fully protected. This Ashburton treaty was written in England and from English standpoints, and every property and possessory right of this powerful company was strictly guarded. The interests of the company were made English interests. Under this treaty the United States agreed to pay all valuations upon Hudson Bay Company property south of forty-nine degrees; while Eng land was to make a settlement for all above that line. The company promptly sent in a bill to the United States for $3,882,036.27, while their de pendent company, the Puget Sound Agricultural CLAIMS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 27 Company, sent in a more modest demand for $1,168,000. These bills were in a state of liquida tion until 1864, when the United States made a final settlement, and paid the Hudson Bay Com pany $450,000 and the Puget Sound Company $200,000. They also, at the time of presenting bills to the United States, presented one to England for $4,990,036.07. In 1869 the English government settled the claim by paying $1,500,000. This amount was paid from the treasury of the Do minion of Canada, and all the vast territory north of 49 degrees came under the government of the Dominion. It was, however, stipulated and agreed that the company should retain all its forts, with ten acres of ground surrounding each, together with one-twentieth of all the land from the Red river to the Rocky Mountains, besides valuable blocks of land to which it laid special claim. The company goes on trading as of old; its or ganization is still complete; it still makes large dividends of about $400,000 per year, and has un told prospective wealth in its lands, which are the best in the Dominion. Among the most interesting facts connected with our title to Oregon are those in connection with the Louisiana purchase by the United States from France in 1803. Many readers of current his tory have overlooked the fact, that it was wholly 28 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. due to England, and her overweening ambition, that the United States was enabled to buy this great domain. Letters, which have recently been published, written by those closest to the high con tracting parties, have revealed the romance, and the inside facts of this great deal, perhaps the most important the United States ever made, and made so speedily as to dazzle the Nation. Few take in the fact that the "Louisiana Pur chase" meant not only the rich state at the mouth of our great river, but also, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, with probably the two Dakotas. Roughly estimated it was a claim by a foreign power upon our continent to territory of over 900,- 000 square miles. At the time, but little was thought of its value save and except the getting possession of the rich soil of Louisiana for the purposes of the Southern planter, and being able to own and control the mouth of our great river upon which, at that time, all the states of the North and West were wholly dependent for their commerce. While Napoleon and the French Government were upon the most friendly terms with the United States, and conceded to our commerce the widest facilities, yet there was a lurking fear that such conditions might at any time change. The desira bility of obtaining such possession had often been THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE. 29 canvassed, with scarcely a ray of hope for its con summation. The United States was poor, and while the South and the West were deeply inter ested, the East, which held the balance of power, was determinedly set against it. The same nar row statesmanship existed then, which later on undervalued all our possessions beyond the Stony Mountains, and was willing and even anxious that they should pass into the possession of a foreign power. France acquired this vast property from Spain in 1800. In March, 1802, there was a great treaty entered into between France on one side and Great Britain, Spain and the Batavian Republic on the other. It was known as "The Amiens Treaty." It was a short-lived treaty which was hopelessly ruptured in 1803. England, foreseeing the rupture, had not de layed to get ready for the event. Then as now, she was, "Mistress upon the high seas," and set about arranging to seize everything afloat that carried the French flag. Her policy was soon made plain, and that was to first make war upon all French de pendencies. No man knew better than Napoleon how power less he would be to make any successful defense. His treasury was well-nigh bankrupt and he must have money for home defense as soon as the victo rious army of the enemy should return from the 30 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. Mississippi campaign, which he foresaw. While the treaty of Amiens was not really abrogated until May, 1803, yet upon January 1, 1803, the whole matter was well understood by Napoleon and his advisers. Early in that month the government received disquieting news from Admiral Villeneuve who was in command of the French fleet in West India waters. It plainly stated that it was undoubtedly the fact that the first blow of the English would be made at New Orleans. This knowledge was promptly conveyed to the American Minister Monroe, well knowing that the United States was almost as much interested in the matter as France was, as it would stop all traf fic from all the States along the Ohio and Missis sippi rivers, and be a death blow to American prosperity for an indefinite period. The recently published letters, already referred to, say of the conference between Minister Monroe and Bona parte: "Unfortunately Mr. Monroe at this time did not understand the French language well enough to follow a speaker who talked as rapidly as did Bona parte, and the intervention of an interpreter was necessary. 'We are not able alone to defend the colony of Louisiana,' the First Consul began. 'Your new regions of the southwest are nearly as deeply interested in its remaining in friendly INTERVIEW WITH NAPOLEON. 31 hands as we are in holding it. Our fleet is not equal to the needs of the French Nation. Can you not help us to defend the mouth of the Mississippi river?' " 'We could not take such a step without a treaty, offensive and defensive,' the American answered. 'Our Senate really is the treaty-mak ing power. It is against us. The President, Mr. Jefferson, is my friend, as well as my superior officer. Tell me, General, what you have in your mind.' "Bonaparte walked the room, a small private consulting cabinet adjoining the Salles des Am- bassadeurs. He had his hands clasped behind him, his head bent forward — his usual position when in deep thought. 'I acquired the great ter ritory to which the Mississippi mouth is the en trance,' he finally began, 'and I have the right to dispose of my own. France is not able now to hold it. Rather than see it in England's hands, I do nate it to America. Why will your country not buy it from France?' There Bonaparte stopped. Mr. Monroe's face was like a flame. What a diplo matic feat it would be for him! What a triumph for the administration of Jefferson to add such a territory to the national domain ! "No man living was a better judge of his fellows than Bonaparte. He read the thoughts of the man before him as though they were on a written scroll. 32 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. He saw the emotions of his soul. 'Well, what do you think of it?' said General Bonaparte. " 'The matter is so vast in its direct relations to my country and what may result from it, that it dazes me,' the American answered. 'But the idea is magnificent. It deserves to emanate from a mind like yours.' The First Consul bowed low. Monroe never flattered, and the look of truth was in his eyes, its ring in his voice. 'I must send a special communication at once touching this matter to President Jefferson. My messenger must take the first safe passage to America.' " 'The Blonde, the fastest ship in our navy, leaves Brest at once with orders for the West Indian fleet, I will detain her thirty-six hours, till your dispatches are ready,' the First Consul said. 'Your messenger shall go on our ship.' " 'How much shall I say the territory will cost us?' The great Corsican — who was just ending the audience, which had been full two hours long — came up to the American Minister. After a moment he spoke again. 'Between nations who are really friends there need be no chaffering. Could I defend this territory, ndt all the gold in the world would buy it. But I am giving to a friend what I am unable to keep. I need 100,000,000 francs in coin or its equivalent. Whatever action we take must be speedy. Above all, let there be absolute silence and secrecy,' and Bonaparte FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE. THE PURCHASE MADE. 33 bowed our minister out. The audience was ended. The protracted audience between Napoleon and the American Minister was such as to arouse gos sip, but the secret was safe in the hands of the two men, both of whom were statesmen and diplomats who knew the value of secrecy in such an emer gency. "The profoundly astonishing dispatches reached President Jefferson promptly. He kept it a secret until he could sound a majority of the Senators and be assured of the standing of such a proposi tion. "The main difficulty that was found would be in raising the 75,000,000 francs it was proposed to give. In those days, with a depleted treasury, it was a large sum of money. The United States had millions of unoccupied acres, but had few millions in cash in its treasury. But our statesmen, to their great honor, proved equal to the emergency. Through the agency of Stephen Girard as finan cier in chief, the loan necessary was negotiated through the Dutch House of Hapes in Amsterdam, and the money paid to France, and the United States entered into possession of the vast estate." This much of the well-nigh forgotten history we have thought appropriate to note in this connec tion; first, because of the new light given to it from the recent disclosures made; and, second, to call attention to the fact that a second time, forty- 34 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. three years later, it served a valiant purpose in thwarting English ambition and serving Ameri ca's highest interests. Estimated from the standpoint of money and material values, it was a great transaction, espe cially notable in view of existing conditions, but from the standpoint of State and National gran deur, carrying with it peace and hope and happi ness to millions, and continuous rule of the Re public from ocean to ocean, it assumes a greatness never surpassed in a single transaction, and not easily over-estimated, and never in the history of the English people did a single transaction, with dates so widely separated, arise, and so effectually check their imperious demands. The American Republic may well remember with deep gratitude President Jefferson, and the far-seeing statesmen who rallied to his call and consummated the grand work. They can at the same time see the foresight and wisdom of Jeffer son in, at once, the very next year, sending the ex pedition of Lewis and Clarke to the headwaters of the Columbia River, and" causing a complete survey to be made to its mouth. It was a com plete refutation of the claim of the English Com missioners, in 1837, that while "Captain Gray only discovered the mouth of the river, Captain Van couver made a complete survey." The American mistake was, not in the purchase and active work CONFLICTS WITH HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 35 then done, but the lassitude and inexcusable neg lect in the forty subsequent years which imperiled every interest the Republic held in the territory beyond the Rocky Mountains. When the treaty of 1846 was signed, it was hoped that the questions at issue were settled for ever; but the Hudson Bay Company was slow to surrender its grasp on any of the territory it could hold, and especially one so rich in all materials that constituted its wealth and power. The treaty of 1846 between the United States and Great Britain read: "From the point on the 49th parallel to the mid dle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver's Island and thence southerly through the middle of said channel and of the Fuca Straits, to the Pacific Ocean, provided, how ever, that the navigation of such channel and straits south of the latitude 49 degrees remain free and open to both parties." This led to after trouble and much ill feeling. The passage referred to in the treaty is about seven miles wide, between the archipelago and Vancouver Island. The archipelago is made up of half a dozen principal islands, and many smaller ones. The largest island, San Juan, con tained about 50,000 acres, and the Hudson Bay Company, knowing something of its value, had taken possession, and proposed to hold it. The 36 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. legislature of Oregon, however, included it in Island County by an act of 1852, which passed to the Territory of Washington in 1853 by the divi sion of Oregon. In 1854 the Collector of Customs for the Puget Sound came in conflict with the Hudson Bay authorities and a lively row was raised. The Hudson Bay Company raised the English flag and the collector as promptly landed and raised the Stars and Stripes. There was a con stant contention between the United States and State authorities, and the Hudson Bay people, in which the latter were worsted, until in 1856-7, after much correspondence, both governments ap pointed a commission to settle the difficulty. Then followed years of discussion which grew from time to time warlike, but there was no settlement of the points in dispute. In December, 1860, the British Government tired of the contest, proposed arbitration by one of the European powers and named either the Swiss Republic, Denmark or Belgium. Then fol lowed the war of the Rebellion and America had no time to reach the case until 1868-9, when the whole matter was referred to two commissioners from each government and the boundary to be de termined by the President of the General Council of the Swiss Republic. This proposition was defeated and afterward THE END OF THE DISPUTE. 37 in 1871 the whole matter was left to the decision of the Emperor of Germany. He made the award to the United States on all points of dispute in Octo ber, 1872, and thus ended the long contest over the boundary line between the two countries, after more than half a century's bickering. CHAPTER II. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN OPINION OF THE VALUE OF THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY— THE NEGLECT OF AMERICAN STATESMEN. The history briefly- recited in the previous chap ter, fully reveals the status of the United States as to ownership of Oregon. Prior to the date to which our story more specifically relates, the United States had gone on perfecting her titles by the various means already described. For the Nation's interest, it was a great good fortune at this early period that a broad-minded, far-seeing man like Thomas Jefferson was President. It was his wisdom and discretion and statesmanship that enabled the country to overcome all difficulties and to make the Louisiana purchase. Looking deeper into the years of the future than his contemporaries, he organized the expedition of Lewis and Clarke and surveyed the Columbia River from its source to its mouth. It was re garded by many at the time as a needless and un justifiable expense; and their report did not LEWIS AND CLARKE. 39 create a ripple of applause, and it was an even nine years after the completion of the expedition, and after the death of one of the explorers, before the report was printed and given to the public. But no reader of history will fail to see how important the expedition was as a link in our chain of evidence. The great misfortune of that time was, that there were not more Jeffersons. True, it did not people Oregon, nor was it followed by any legislation protecting any interest the United States held in the great territory. There were Congressmen and Senators, who, from time to time, made efforts to second the work of Jefferson. Floyd, of Virginia, as early as 1820, made an eloquent plea for the occupation of the territory and a formal recognition of our rights as rulers. In 1824 a bill passed the lower house of Congress embodying the idea of Floyd stated four years previously, but upon reaching the Sen ate it fell on dull ears. When the question was before the Senate in 1828, renewing the treaty of 1818 with England, Floyd again attempted to have a bill passed to give land to actual settlers who would emigrate to Oregon, and as usual, failed. In February, 1838, Senator Linn, of Missouri, always the friend of Oregon, introduced a bill with the main features of the House bill which passed that body in 1824, but again failed in the Senate. 40 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. The Government, however, was moved to send a special commissioner to Oregon to discover its real conditions and report. But nothing practical resulted. It is not a pleasant thing to turn the pages of history made by American statesmen during the first third of the century, and even nearly to the end of its first half. There is a lack of wisdom and foresight and broad-mindedness, which shatters our ideals of the mental grandeur of the builders of the Republic. Diplomatically they had laid strong claim to the now known grand country beyond "the Stony Mountains." They had never lost an opportunity by treaty to hold their interests; and yet from year to year and from decade to decade, they had seen a foreign power, led by a great corporation, ruling all the territory with a mailed hand. While they made but feeble protest in the way we have mentioned, they did even worse, they turned their shafts of oratory and wit and denunciation loose against the country itself and all its inter ests. Turn for a brief review of the political record of that period. Among the ablest men of that day was Senator Benton. He, in his speech of 1825, said, that "The ridge of the Rocky Mountains may be named as a convenient, natural and everlast ing boundary. Along this ridge the western lim- MAP SHOWING OREGON IN 1842, WHITMAN'S RIDE, THE RETURN TRIP TO OREGON. THE SPANISH POSSESSIONS AND THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE. SENATOR BENTON'S SPEECH. 41 its of the Republic should be drawn, and the statue of the fabled God Terminus should be erected on its highest peak, never to be thrown down." In quoting Senator Benton of 1825, it is always but fair to say he had long before the day of Whitman's arrival in Washington greatly modified his views. But Senators equally intelligent and influential — such as Winthrop, of Massachusetts, as late as 1844, quoted this sentence from Benton and com mended its wisdom and statesmanship. It' was in this discussion and while the treaty adopted in 1846 was being considered, that General Jackson is on record as saying, that, "Our safety lay in a compact government." One of the remarkable speeches in the discus sion of the Ashburton- Webster Treaty was that made by Senator McDuffie. Nothing could better show the educating power of the Hudson Bay Company in the United States, and the ignorance of our statesmen, as to extent and value of the territory. McDuffie said: "What is the character of this country?" (referring to Oregon). "As I understand it there are seven hundred miles this side of the Rocky Mountains that are uninhabitable; where rain never falls; mountains wholly impassable, except through gaps and depressions, to be reached only by going hundreds of miles out of the 42 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. direct course. Well, now, what are you going to do in such a case? How are you going to apply steam? Have you made an estimate of the cost of a railroad to the mouth of the Columbia? Why the wealth of the Indies would be insufficient. Of what use would it be for agricultural purposes? I would not, for that purpose, give a pinch of snuff for the whole territory. I wish the Rocky Moun tains were an impassable barrier. If there was an embankment of even five feet to be removed I would not consent to expend five dollars to re move it and enable our population to go there. I thank God for his mercy in placing the Rocky Mountains there." Will the reader' please take notice that the speech was delivered on the 25th day of January, 1843, just about the time that Whitman, in the ever-memorable ride, was floundering through the snow drifts of the Wasatch and Uintah Moun tains, deserted by his guide and surrounded by discouragements that would have appalled any man not inspired by heroic purpose. It was at this same session of 1843, prior to the visit of Whitman, that Linn, of Missouri, had offered a bill which made specific legal provisions for Oregon, and he succeeded in passing the bill, which went to the House and as usual was de feated. The prevailing idea was that which was expressed by General Jackson to President Mon- OREGON A DESERT. 43 roe, and before referred to, in which Jackson says, "It should be our policy to concentrate our popu lation and confine our frontier to proper limits until our country, in those limits, is filled with a dense population. It is the denseness of our popu lation that gives strength and security to our fron tier." That "interminable desert," those "arid plains," those "impassable mountains," and "the impossibility of a wagon road from the United States," were the burdens of many speeches from the statesmen of that time. And then they em phasized the whole with the clincher that, after overcoming these terrible obstacles that inter vened, we reached a land that was "worthless," not even worth a "pinch of snuff." Senator Dayton, of New Jersey, in 1844, in the discussion of the Oregon boundary question, said: "With the exception of land along the Wil lamette and strips along other water courses, the whole country is as irreclaimable and barren a waste as the Desert of Sahara. Nok is this the worst; the climate is so unfriendly to human life that the native population has dwindled away under the ravages of malaria." The National Intelligencer, about the same date, republished from the Louisville Journal and sanc tioned the sentiments, as follows : "Of all the countries upon the face of the earth Oregon is one of the least favored by heaven. It 44 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. is the mere riddlings of creation. It is almost as barren as Sahara and quite as unhealthy as the Campagna of Italy. Russia has her Siberia and England has her Botany Bay and if the United States should ever need a country to which to ban ish her rogues and scoundrels, the utility of such a region as Oregon would be demonstrated. Until then, we are perfectly willing to leave this mag nificent country to the Indians, trappers and buf falo hunters that roam over its sand banks." In furtherance of the Jackson sentiment of "a dense population," Senator Dayton said: "I have no faith in the unlimited extensions of this gov ernment. We have already conflicting interests, more than enough, and God forbid that the time should ever come when a state on the shores of the Pacific, with its interests and tendencies of trade all looking toward Asiatic nations of the east, shall add its jarring claims to our already distracted and over-burdened confederacy. We are nearer to the remote nations of Europe than to Oregon." The Hudson Bay Company had done its edu cating work well. If they had graduated Ameri can statesmen in a full course of Hudson Bay training and argument and literature, they could not have made them more efficient. Our states men did not doubt that the honest title of the prop erty was vested in the United States; for they had JASON LEE. 45 gone on from time to time perfecting this title; yet they had no idea of its value and seemed to hold it only for diplomatic purposes or for pros pective barter. The United States had no contestant for the property except England, but in 1818 she was not ready to make any assertion of her rights. In 1828 she still postponed making any demand and renewed the treaty, well knowing that the little island many thousands of miles across the Atlan tic, was the supreme ruler of all the vast territory. Again, when the Ashburton Treaty was at is sue, and the question of boundary which had been for forty-eight years a bone of contention, the government again ignored Oregon, and was satis- 'fied with settling the boundaries between a few farms up in Maine. But it requires no argument in view of this long continued series of acts, to reach the conclusion that American interests in Oregon were endan gered most of all from the apathy and ignorance of our own statesmen. That loyal old pioneer, Rev. Jason Lee, the chief of the Methodist Mission in Oregon, visited Washington in 1838 and presented the conditions of the country and its dangers forcibly. With funds contributed by generous friends he suc ceeded in taking back with him quite a delega- 46 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. tion of actual settlers for Oregon. But neither Congress nor the people were aroused. For all practical purposes Oregon was treated as a "foreign land." There was not even a show of a protectorate over the few Americam immi grants who had gathered there. The "American Board," which sent missionaries only to foreign lands, had charge of the mission fields, and care fully secured passports for their missionaries be fore starting them upon their long journey. The Rev. Myron Eells in his interestinig volume en titled "Father Eells," gives a copy of the passport issued to his father. It records — "The Rev. Gushing Eells, Missionary and Teacher of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions to the tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, having signified to this depart ment his desire to pass through the Indian Coun try to the Columbia River, and requested the per mission required by law to enable him so to do, such permission is hereby granted; and he is commended to the friendly attention of civil and military agents and officers and of citizens, if at any time it shall be necessary to his protection. Given under my hand and the seal of the War Department this 27th day of February, 1838. "J. R. POINSETT, "Secretary of War." ENGLISH OPINION. 47 It is a truth so plain as to need no argument, that during all these earlier years the whole effort of the fur traders had been to deceive all nation alities as to the value of the Northwestern country. In their selfishness they had deceived England as well as America. Their idea and hope was to keep out emigration. But England had been better informed than the United States, for the reason that all the commerce was with England, and English capitalists who had large interests in the Hudson Bay Company, very naturally were better informed, but even they were not anxious for English colonization and an interference with their bonanza. They controlled the English press, and so late as 1840 we read in the "British and Foreign Review," that "upon the whole, therefore, the Oregon coun try holds out no great promise as an agricultural field." The London Examiner in 1843 wonders that "Ignorant Americans" were "disposed to quarrel over a country, the whole in dispute not being worth to either party twenty thousand pounds." The Edinburgh Review, generally fair, said: "Only a very small portion of the land is capable of cultivation. It is a case in which the Ameri can people have been misled as to climate and soil. In a few years all that gives life to the country, both the hunter and his prey will be extinct, and 48 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. their places wTill be supplied by a thin white and half-breed population scattered along the fertile valleys supported by pastures instead of the chase, and gradually degenerating into barbarism, far more offensive than backwoodsmen." Our Eng lish friends, it may be observed, had long had a poor opinion of "backwoodsmen." The Edinburgh Review, in 1843, says: "How ever the political question between England and the United States as to their claim on Oregon shall be determined, Oregon will never be colo nized overland from the United States. The world must assume a new phase before the American wagons make a jplain road to the Columbia River." In this educating work of the English press, we can easily understand how public opinion was molded, and how our statesmen were misinformed and misdirected. It was, no doubt, largely due to the shrewd work of the great monopoly in Oregon backed up by the English Government. Its first object was to keep it unsettled as long as possi ble, for on that depended the millions for the Hud son Bay Company's treasury, but beyond that, the government plainly depended upon the powerful organization to hold all the land as a British pos session. In the war of 1812, one of the first moves was to dispatch a fleet to the Columbia, with orders, THE OUTLOOK GLOOMY. 49 as the record shows, "to take and destroy every thing American on the northwest coast." The prosperous people of Oregon, Washington and Idaho are in a position now to enjoy such prophetic fulminations, but they can easily see the dangers that were escaped. It was a double dan ger, danger from abroad and at home, and of the latter most of all. The Nation had been deceived. It must be undeceived. The outlook was not hopeful. The year 1843 had been ushered in. The long-looked-for and talked-of treaty had been signed, and Oregon again ignored. There was scarcely a shadow cast of coming events to give hope to the friends of far-away Oregon. Suppose some watchman from the dome of the Capitol casting his eyes westward in 1843, could have seen that little caravan winding through val leys and over the hills and hurrying eastward, but who would dream that its leader was "a man of destiny," bearing messages to a nation soon to be aroused? Of how little or how much importance was this messenger or his message, turn to "The Ride to Save Oregon" and judge. But certain it is, a great change, bordering on revolution, was portending. CHAPTER III. THE ROMANCE OF THE OREGON MISSION. These pages are mainly designed to show in brief the historical and political environments of Oregon in pioneer days, and the patriotic services rendered the nation by Dr. Marcus Whitman. But to attempt to picture this life and omit the mis sionary, would be like reciting the play of Ham let and omitting Hamlet. The mission work to the Oregon Indians began in a romance and ended in a great tragedy. The city of St. Louis in that day was so near the border of civilization that it was accustomed to see much of the rugged and wild life of the plains; yet in 1832 the people beheld even to them the odd sight of four Flathead Indians in Indian dress and equipment parading their principal streets. General Clarke, who commanded the military post of that city, was promptly notified and took the strangers in charge. He had been an Indian THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK OF LIFE. 51 commissioner for many years in the far West, knew the tribe well and could easily communi cate with them. With it all he was a good friend to the Indians and at once made arrangements at the fort to make them comfortable. They in formed him that they were all chiefs of the tribe and had spent the entire Summer and Fall upon their long journey. Their wearied manner and wasted appearance told the fact impressively, even had the general not known the locality where they belonged. For a while they were reticent regarding their mission, as is usual with Indians ; but in due time their story was fully revealed. They had heard of "The White Man's Book of Life," and had come "to hunt for it" and "to ask for teachers to be sent" to their tribe. To Gen. Clarke this was a novel proposition to come in that way from wild Indians. Gen. Clarke was a devoted Catholic and treated his guests as a humane and hospitable man. After they were rested up he piloted them to every place which he thought would entertain and interest them. Fre quent visits were made to Catholic churches, and to theaters and shows of every kind. And so they spent the balance of the Winter. During this time, two of the Indians, from the long journey and possibly from over-eating rich food, to which they were unaccustomed, were 52 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. taken sick and died, and were given honored burial by the soldiers. When the early Spring sun began to shine, the two remaining Indians commenced their preparations for return home. Gen. Clarke proposed to give them a banquet upon the last evening of their sojourn, and start them upon their way loaded with all the comforts he could give. At this banquet one of the Indians made a speech. It was that speech, brimming over with Indian eloquence, which fired the Chris tian hearts of the Nation into a new life. The speech was translated into English and thus doubtless loses much of its charm. The chief said : "I come to you over the trail of many moons from the setting sun. You were the friends of my fathers, who have all gone the long way. I came with an eye partly open for my peo ple, who sit in darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back blind, to my blind peo ple? I made my way to you with strong arms through many enemies and strange lands that I might carry back much to them. I go back with both arms broken and empty. Two fathers came with us, they were the braves of many winters and wars. We leave them asleep here by your great water and wigwams. They were tired in many moons and their moccasins wore out. "My people sent me to get the "White Man's Book of Heaven." You took me to where you al- THE INDIAN'S SPEECH. 53 low your women to dance as we do not ours, and the book was not there. You took me to where they worship the Great Spirit with candles and the book was not there. You showed me images of the good spirits and the pictures of the good land beyond, but the book was not among them to tell us the way. I am going back the long and sad trail to my people in the dark land. You make my feet heavy with gifts and my moccasins will grow old in carrying them, yet the book is not among them. When I tell my poor blind people after one more snow, in the big council, that I did not bring the book, no word will be spoken by our old men or by our young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My people will die in darkness, and they will go a long path to other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them, and no White Man's Book to make the way plain. I have no more words." When this speech was translated and sent East it was published in the Christian Advocate in March, 1833, with a ringing editorial froni Presi dent Fisk of Wilbraham College. "Who will re spond to go beyond the Rocky Mountains and carry the Book of Heaven?" It made a profound impression. It was a Macedonian cry of "Come over and help us," not to be resisted. Old men and women who read this call, and attended the meet ings at that time, are still living, and can attest 54 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. to its power. It stirred the church as it has sel dom been stirred into activity. This incident of the appearance in St. Louis and demand of the four Flathead Indians has been so fully verified in history as to need no addi tional proof to silence modern sceptics who have ridiculed it. All the earlier histories such as "Gray's History of Oregon," "Reed's Mission of the Methodist Church," Governor Simpson's narrative, Barrow's "Oregon," Parkman's "Oregon Trail," with the correspondence of the Lees, verified the truth of the occurrence. Bancroft, in his thirty-eight-volume history, in volume 1, page 579, says, "Hearing of the Chris tians and how heaven favors them, four Flathead Indian chiefs, in 1832, went to St. Louis and asked for teachers," etc. As this latter testimony is from a source which discredited missionary work, as we shall show in another chapter, it is good testimony upon the point. Some modern doubters have also ridiculed the speech reported to have been made by the Indian chief. Those who know Indians best will bear testimony to its genuineness. Almost every tribe of Indians has its orator and story-teller, and some of them as famous in their wTay as the Beechers and Phillipses and Depews, among the whites, or the Douglasses and Lang- stons among the negroes. In 1851 the writer of this book was purser upon AN INCIDENT IN OREGON. 55 the steamer Lot Whitcomb, which ran between Milwaukee and Astoria, Oregon. One beautiful morning I wandered a mile or more down the beach and was seated upon the sand, watching the great combers as they rolled in from the Pa cific, wThich, after a storm, is an especially grand sight; when suddenly, as if he had arisen from the ground, an Indian appeared near by and accosted me. He was a fine specimen of a savage, clean and well dressed. He evidently knew who I was and my position on the steamer and had followed me to make his plea. With a toss of his arm and a motion of his body he threw the fold of his blanket across his left shoulder as gracefully as a Roman Senator could have done, and began his speech. "Hy-iu hyas kloshe Boston, Boston hy-iu steamboat hy-iu cuitan. Indian halo steamboat, halo cuitan." It was a rare mixture of English words with the Chinook, which I easily understood. The burthen of his speech was, the greatness and richness and goodness of white men; (they called all white men Boston men) ; they owned all the steamboats and horses; that the Indians were very poor; that his squaw and pappoose were away up the Willamette river, so far away that his moc casins would be worn out before he could reach their wigwam; that he had no money and wanted to ride. I have heard the great orators of the nation in 56 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the pulpit and halls of legislation, but I never lis tened to a more eloquent plea, or saw gestures more graceful than were those of that wild Wasco Indian, of which I alone was the audience. Another interesting historical scrap of the ro mantic history of these Flathead chiefs is fur nished in the fact that the celebrated Indian artist, George Catlin, was on one of his tours in the West taking sketches in the spring of 1833. Soon after their leaving St. Louis he dropped in with the two Indians on their return journey and traveled with them for some days, taking pictures of both, and they are now numbers 207 and 208 in his great col lection. Upon his return east he read the Indian speech, and of the excitement it had caused, and not hav ing been told by the Indians of the cause of their journey, and wishing to be assured that he had ac cidentally struck a great historic prize in securing the pictures, he sat down and wrote Gen. Clarke at St. Louis, asking him if the speech was true and the story correct. Gen. Clarke promptly re plied, "The story is true; that was the only ob ject of their visit." Taken in connection with the after history, no two pictures in any collection have a deeper or grander significance. We may add here that within a month after leaving St. Louis, one of the Indians was taken THE LOT WHITCOMB. The first Steamboat built in Oregon. THE FLATHEADS. 57 sick and died, and but one reached his home in safety. When I reached Oregon in 1850, the first tribe of Indians I visited in their home was the Flat- heads. But whether the story is true in all its minutiae or not, it matters but little. It was be lieved true, and produced grand results. It can hardly be said, from the standpoint of the Chris tian missionary, that the work in Oregon was a grand success. And yet, never were missionaries more heroic, or that labored in any field with greater fidelity for the true interests of the Indian savages to whom they were sent. They were great, warm-hearted, intelligent, edu cated, earnest men and women, who endured pri vation, isolation and discomfort with cheerfulness, that they might teach Christianity and save souls. There was no failure from any incompetency of the teachers, but from complications and sur roundings hopelessly beyond their power to change. They brought with them over their long, weary journey the Bible, Christianity and civilization, and the school. They were met at first with a cor dial reception by the Indians, but a great corpora tion, dependent upon the steel trap and continu ous savage life, soon showed its hand. It was a foreign un-American opposition. It had met every American company that had attempted to share in 58 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the business promoted by savage life, and routed them. The missionaries were wide-awake men and were quick to see the drift of affairs. Dr. Whitman early foresaw what was to hap pen. He saw the possibilities of the country and that the first battle was between the schoolhouse and civilization, and the tepee and savager}-. He resolved to do everything possible for the Indian before it began. In a letter to his father-in-law, dated May 16, 1844, from Waiilatpui, he says: "It does not concern me so much what is to be come of any particular set of Indians, as to give them the offer of salvation through the Gospel, and the opportunity of civilization, and then I am content to do good to all men as I have opportu nity. I have no doubt our greatest work is to be to aid the white settlement of this country and help to found its religious institutions. Provi dence has its full share in all those events. Al though the Indians have made, and are making rapid advance in religious knowledge and civiliza tion, yet it cannot be hoped that time will be al lowed to mature the work of Christianization or civilization before white settlers will demand the soil and the removal both of the Indians and the Missions. "What Americans desire of this kind they al ways effect, and it is useless to oppose or desire it otherwise. To guide as far as can be done, and di- WHITMAN'S LETTER. 59 rect these tendencies for the best, is evidently the part of wisdom. Indeed, I am fully convinced that when people refuse or neglect to fill the de sign of Providence, they ought not to complain at the results, and so it is equally useless for Chris tians to be over-anxious on their account. "The Indians have in no case obeyed the com mand to multiply and replenish the earth, and they cannot stand in the way of others doing so. A place will be left them to do this as fully as their ability to obey will permit, and the more we do for them the more fully will this be realized. No exclusiveness can be asked for any portion of the human family. The exercise of his rights are all that can be desired. In order for this to be un derstood to its proper extent, in regard to the In dians, it is necessary that they seek to preserve their rights by peaceable means only. Any viola tion of this rule will be visited with only evil re sults to themselves." This letter from Dr. Whitman to his wife's father, dated about seven months after his return from his memorable "Ride to Save Oregon," is for the first time made public in the published trans actions of the State Historical Society of Oregon in 1893. It is important from the fact that it gives a complete key to the life and acts of this silent man and his motives for the part he took in the great historic drama, in which the statesmen of 60 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the two nations were to be the actors, with mil lions of people the interested audience. In another place we will show how Whitman has been misrepresented by modern historians, and an attempt made to deprive him of all honor, and call attention to the above record, all the more valuable because never intended for the public eye when written. In the same letter Whitman says, "As I hold the settlement of this country by Americans, rather than by English colonists, most important, I am happy to have been the means of landing so large an immigration on the shores of the Columbia with their wagons, families and stock, all in safety." Such sentiments reveal only the broad-minded, far-seeing Christian man, who, though many thou sand miles away from its protecting influence, still loved "The banner of beauty and glory." He had gone to Oregon with only a desire to teach savages Christianity; but saw in the near future the in evitable, and, without lessening his interest in his savage pupils, he entered the broader field. Who can doubt that both were calls from a power higher than man? Or who can point to an instance upon historic pages where the great work assigned was prosecuted with greater fidelity? Having accomplished a feat unparalleled for its heroism and without a break in its grand success, NOT AN ACCIDENT. 61 he makes no report of it to any state or national organization, but while he talked freely with his friends of his work it is only now, after he has rested for forty-seven and more years, that this modest letter written to his wife's father at the time, strongly reveals his motives. Having accomplished his great undertaking, he was still the missionary and friend of the Indians, and at once dropped back to his work, and the drudgery of his Indian mission. Again we find him enlarging his field of work, teaching his savage friends, not only Christianity, but how to sow, and plant, and reap, and build houses, and prepare for civilization. He took no part in the new political life which he had made possible. He was a stranger to all things except those which concerned the work he was called to do. In his letter he speaks of earnestly desiring to return East and bring out the second company of immigrants the coming Spring, but the needs of his mission, his wasted fields, and his mill burned during his absence, seemed to demand his presence at home. The world speaks of this event and that, as "It so happened." They will refer to the advent of the Flathead Indians in St. Louis in 1832, as "It so happened." The more thoughtful readers of history find fewer things "accidental." In this great historic romance the Flathead Indians were 62 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. not an accident. The American Board, the Meth odist Board, Dr. Whitman and Jason Lee, and their co-workers, were not accidents. They were all men inspired to a specific work, and having entered upon it, the field widened into dimensions of unforeseen grandeur, whose benefits the, Nation has never yet befittingly acknowledged. CHAPTER IV. THE WEDDING JOURNEY ACROSS THE PLAINS. The romance of the Oregon Mission did not end with the call of the Flathead Indians. This was savage romance, that of civilization followed. The Methodists sent the Lees in 1834, and the American Board tried to get the right men for the work to accompany them, but failed. But in 1835 they sent Dr. Marcus Whitman and the Rev. Sam uel Parker to Oregon upon a trip of discovery, to find out the real conditions, present and prospec tive. They got an early start in 1835 and reached Green River, where they met large bodies of In dians and Indian traders, and were made fully ac quainted with the situation. The Indians gave large promises, and the field seemed wide and in viting. Upon consultation it was agreed that Dr. Whitman should return to the States and report to the American Board, while Dr. Parker should go on to the Columbia. Two Indian boys from the Pacific Coast, Richard and John, volunteered to 64 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. return with Dr. Whitman and come back with him the following year. The Doctor and his Indian boys reached his home in Rushville, New York, late on Saturday night in November, and not making known the event to his family, astonished the congregation in his church by walking up the aisle with his In dians, and calling out an audible exclamation from his good old mother, "Well, there is Marcus Whitman." Upon the report of Dr. Whitman the American Board resolved to at once occupy the field. Dr. Whitman had long been engaged to be mar ried to Miss Narcissa Prentice, the daughter of Judge Prentice, of Prattsburg, New York, who was as much of an enthusiast in the Oregon Indian Mission work as the Doctor himself. The Ameri can Board thought it unwise to send the young couple alone on so distant a journey, and at once began the search for company. The wedding day, which had been fixed, was postponed, and valuable time was passing, and no suitable parties would volunteer for the work, when its trials and dan gers were explained. The Board had received word that the Rev. H. H. Spalding, who had recently married, was then with his wife on his way to the Osage Mission to enter upon a new field of work. It was in January and Whitman took to the road in his sleigh in pur- MRS. SPALDING'S DECISION. 65 suit of the traveling missionaries. He overtook them near the village of Hudson and hailed them in his cheery way: "Ship ahoy, you are wanted for the Oregon Mission)" After a short colloquy they drove on to the hotel of the little village. There the. subject was can vassed and none of its dangers hidden. Mr. Spald ing promptly made up his mind, and said: "My dear, I do not think it your duty to go, but we will leave it to you after we have prayed." Mrs. Spalding asked to be left alone, and in ten minutes she appeared with a beaming face and said : "I have made up my mind to go." "But your health, my dear?" "I like the command just as it stands," says Mrs. Spalding, "Go ye into all the world and preach the Gospel, with no exceptions for poor health." Others referred to the hardships and dangers and terrors of the journey, but Dr. Spalding says: "They all did not move her an iota." Such was the party for the wedding journey. It did look like a dangerous journey for a woman who had been many months an invalid, but events proved Mrs. Spalding a real heroine, with a cour age and pluck scarcely equaled, and under the circumstances never excelled. Having turned her face toward Oregon she never looked back and. never was heard to murmur or regret her decision. 66 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. This difficulty being removed, the day was again set for the marriage of Dr. Whitman and Miss Prentice, which took place in February, 1836. All authorities mark Narcissa Prentice as a woman of great force of character. She was the adored daughter of a refined Chris tian home and had the love of a wide circle of friends. She was the soprano singer in the choir of the village church of which she and her family were members. In the volume of the magazine of American His tory for 1884, the editor, the late Miss Martha J. Lamb, says: "The voice of Miss Prentice was of remarkable sweetness. She was a graceful blonde, stately and dignified in her bearing, without a particle of af fectation." Says Miss Lamb: "When preparing to leave for Oregon the church held a farewell service and the minister gave out the well-known hymn : 'Yes, my native land I love thee, All thy scenes I love them well; Friends, connection, happy country, Can I bid you all farewell?' "The whole congregation joined heartily in the singing, but before the hymn was half through, one by one they ceased singing and audible sobs were heard in every part of the great audience. The last stanza was sung by the sweet voice of LEAVING HOME. 67 Mrs. Whitman alone, clear, musical and unwav ering." One of the pleasant things since it was an nounced that these sketches would be written, is the number of people, that before were unknown, who have volunteered charming personal sketches of Dr. and Mrs. Whitman. A venerable friend who often, he fears, attended church more for the songs of Miss Prentice than for the sermons, was also at their wedding. The venerable J. S. Seeley, of Aurora, Illinois, writes: "It was just fifty-nine years ago this March since I drove Dr. and Mrs. Whitman from Elmira, N. Y., to Hollidaysburg, Pa., in my sleigh. This place was at the foot of the Allegheny Mountains (east side) on the Pennsylvania canal. The canal boats were built in two sections and were taken over the mountains on a railroad. "They expected to find the canal open on the Avest side and thus reach the Ohio River on the way to Oregon. I was with them some seven days. Dr. Whitman impressed me as a man of strong- sterling character and lots of push, but he was not a great talker. Mrs. Whitman was of medium size and impressed me as a woman of great resolu tion." A younger sister of the bride, Mrs. H. P. Jack son, of Oberlin, Ohio, writes: "Mrs. Whitman was the mentor of her younger sisters in the 68 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. home. She joined the church when eleven years old, and from her early years expressed a desire to be a missionary. . The wedding occurred in the church at Angelica, N. Y., to which place my father had removed, and the ceremony was per formed by the Rev. Everett Hull. I recollect how deeply interested the two Indian boys were in the ceremony, and how their faces brightened when the doctor told them that Mrs. Whitman would go back with them to Oregon. We all had the greatest faith and trust in Dr. Whitman, and in all our letters from our dear sister there was never a word of regret or repining at the life she had chosen." The two Indian boys were placed in school and learned to read and speak English during the Winter. The journey down the Ohio and up the Missis sippi and Missouri Rivers was tedious, but un eventful. Those who navigated the Missouri River, fifty years ago, have not forgotten its snags and sand bars, which caused a constant chattering of the bells in the engineer's room from morning until evening, and all through the night, unless the pru dent captain tied up to the shore. The man and his "lead line" was constantly on the prow singing out "twelve feet," "quarter past twain," then sud denly "six feet," when the bells would ring out as LEFT BEHIND. 69 the boat's nose would bury in the concealed sand bar. But the party safely reached its destination, and was landed with all its effects, wagons, stock and outfit. The company was made up of Dr. and Mrs. Whit man, Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, H. H. Gray, two teamsters and the two Indian boys. The American Fur Company, which was send ing out a convoy to their port in Oregon, had promised to start from Council Bluffs upon a given date, and make them welcome members of the company. It was a large company made up of two hundred men and six hundred animals. On the journey in from Oregon, in 1835, cholera had attacked the company, and Dr. Whitman had ren dered such faithful and efficient service that they felt under obligations to him. But they had heard there were to be women along and the old moun taineers did not want to be bothered with women upon such a journey, and they moved out promptly without waiting for the doctor's party, which had been delayed. When Dr. Whitman reached Council Bluffs and found them gone, he was greatly disturbed. There was nothing to do but make forced marches and catch the train before it reached the more danger ous Indian country. Dr. Spalding would have liked to have found it an excuse to return home, 70 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. but Mrs. Spalding remarked: "I have started to the Rocky Mountains and I expect to go there." Spalding in a dressing gown in his study, or in a city pulpit, would have been in his element, but he was not especially marked for an Indian missionary. Early in the campaign a Missouri cow kicked him off the ferryboat into the river. The ague racked every bone in his body, and a Kansas tornado at one time lifted both his tent and his blanket and left him helpless. He seemed to catch every disaster that came along. A man may have excellent points in his make-up, as Dr. Spald ing had, and yet not be a good pioneer. He and his noble wife made a grand success, however, when they got into the field of work. It was Mrs. Spalding who first translated Bible truths and Christian songs into the Indian dialect. It seemed a discouraging start for the little company when compelled to pull out upon the boundless plains alone. But led by Whitman, they persevered and caught the convoy late in May. The doctor's boys now proved of good service. They were patient and untiring and at home on the trail. They took charge of all the loose stock. The cows they were taking along would be of great value upon reaching their destination, and they proved to be of value along the journey as well, as milk suppliers for the little party. The first part of the journey Mrs. Whitman rode TRIALS OF THE JOURNEY. 71 mainly in the wagon with Mrs. Spalding, who was not strong enough for horseback riding. But soon she took to her pony and liked it so much bet ter, that she rode nearly all the way on horseback. They were soon initiated into the trials and dan gers of the journey. On May 9th Mrs. Whitman writes in her diary: "We had great difficulty to-day. Husband be came so completely exhausted with swimming the river, that it was with difficulty he made the shore the last time. We had but one canoe, made of skins, and that was partly eaten by the dogs the night before." She speaks of "meeting large bodies of Pawnee Indians," and says: "They seemed very much surprised and pleased to see white women. They were noble looking In dians. "We attempted, by a hard march, to reach Loup Fork. The wagons got there at eleven at night, but husband and I rode with the Indian boys until nine o'clock, when Richard proposed that we go on and they would stay with the loose cattle upon the prairie, and drive them in early in the morn ing. We did not like to leave them and concluded to stay. Husband had a cup tied to his saddle, and in this he milked what we wanted to drink; this was our supper. Our saddle-blankets with our rubber-cloaks were our beds. Having offered 72 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. thanksgiving for the blessings of the day, and seeking protection for the night, we committed ourselves to rest. We awoke refreshed and rode into camp before breakfast." Here they caught up with the Fur Company caravan, after nearly a month's traveling. These brave women, with their kindness and tact, soon won the good-will and friendship of the old plains men, and every vestige of opposition to having women in the train disappeared and every possi ble civility and courtesy was extended to them. One far-seeing old American trader, who had felt the iron heel of the English Company beyond the Stony Mountains, pointing to the little missionary band, prophetically remarked: "There is some thing that the Honorable Hudson Bay Company cannot drive out of Oregon." In her diary of the journey, Mrs. Whitman never expresses a fear, and yet remembering my own sensations upon the same journey, I can scarcely conceive that two delicately nurtured women would not be subjected to great anxieties. The Platte River, in that day, was but little un derstood and looked much worse than it really was. Where forded it was a mile wide, and not often more than breast deep to the horses. Two men, on the best horses, rode fifty yards in advance of the wagons, zig-zagging up and down, while the head-driver kept an eye open for the shallowest DR. MARCUS WHITMAN. No picture of Dr. "Whitman is in existence. The abov 240 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. cut the wood, aud later to plow and sow the fields, as we afterward find he knew how to do all these things. The strong, sturdy boy of ceaseless ac tivity and indomitable will who loved hunting and exploring, and a touch of wild life, must have sometimes given his old grandfather a trial of his mettle, but on the whole, no doubt, he was a great comfort and help to his declining years. After the death of his grandfather, he returned to the home of his mother in Rushville. There he became a member of the Congregational Church at the age of nineteen, and it is said was very desirous of studying for the ministry, but by a long illness, and the persuasion of friends, was turned from his purpose to the study of medicine. He took a three years' course, and graduated at Fairfield, in 1824. He first went to Canada, Avhere he practiced his profession for four yrears, then came back to his home, determined again to take up the study for the ministry, but was again frustrated in his design, and practiced his profes sion four years more in Wheeler, N. Y., where he was a member and an elder in the Presbyterian Church. lie and a brother also owned a saw-mill near there, Avhere he assisted in his spare hours, and so learned another trade that was most use ful to him in later life. In fact, as we see his envi ronments in his Mission Station in Oregon, these WHITMAN'S PROSPERITY ANGERS THE INDIANS. 241 hard lessons of his earlier years seem to have been, in the best sense of the word, educational. With but little help, he opened up and culti vated a great farm, and built a grist-mill and a saAV-mill, and when his grist-mill Avas burned, built another, and, at the same time, attended to his professional duties that covered a wide dis trict. It was the wonder of every visitor to the Mission how one man, Avith so few helpers, ac complished so much. At the time of the massacre, the main building of the Mission was one hundred feet in the front, Avith an L running back seventy feet, and part of it two stories high. Every vis itor remarked on the cleanliness and comfort and thrift which everywhere appeared. There are men who, with great incentives, have accomplished great things, but were utter failures when it came to practical, every-day duties. Dr. Whitman, with a genius to conceive, and the will and energy to carry out the most difficult and dar ing undertaking, was just as faithful and efficient in the little things that made up the comforts of his Avilderness home. Seeing these grand results — the commodious house, the increase in the herds and the stacks of grain — seems to have only an gered his lazy, thriftless Indians, and they began to make demands for a division of his wealth. Dr. Whitman has been accused of holding his Indians to a too strict moral accountability; that 242 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. it would have been wiser to have been more le nient, and winked at, rather than denounced, some of their savage ways. Those who have carefully studied the man, know how impossible it would have been for him, in any seeming Avay, to con done a crime, or to purchase peace with the crimi nal by a bribe. This was the method of the Hud son Bay Company, and was doubtless the cheap way. By a series of events and environments, he seems to have been trained much as Moses was, but with wholly different surroundings from those of the great Lawgiver, whose first training was in the Royal Court and the schools of Egypt; then in its army; then an outcast, and as a shepherd, guiding his flocks, and finding springs and pas turage in the land where, one day, he Avas to lead his people. King David is another man made strong in the school of preparation. As he watched his flocks on the Judean hills, he fought the lion and the bear, and so was not afraid to meet and fight a giant, who defied the armies of the living God. It was there, under the stars, that he practiced music to quiet a mad king, and was educated into a fit ness to organize the great choirs, and furnish the grand anthems for the temple Avorship. After this, in self-defense, he became the commander of TRAINED FOR HIS WORK. 243 lawless bands of men, and so was trained to com mand the armies of Israel. So it has been in our own Nation, with Wash ington and Lincoln, and Grant and Garfield; they had to pass through many hardships, and receive a many-sided training before they were fitted for the greater work to Avhich they were called. So it was, this strong, conscientious, somewhat rest less young man was being trained for the life that was to follow. The farmer boy, planting and reaping, the millwright planning and building, the country doctor on his long, lonely rides, the religious teacher who must oversee the physical and spiritual wants of his felloAV church members, all were needed in the larger life for which he Avas longing and looking, when the sad appeal for the "Book of Life" came from the Indian Chiefs who had come so far, and failed to find it. His im mediate and hearty response was, "Here am I, send me!" Dr. Marcus Whitman, judged by his life as a Missionary, must ever be giA^en due credit; for no man ever gave evidence of greater devotion to the work he found to do. He was doubtless excelled as a teacher of the Indians by many of his co-labor ers. He was not, perhaps, even eminent as a teacher. His great reputation and the honor due him, does not rest upon such a claim, but upon his wisdom in seeing the future of the Great West, 244 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. and his heroic rescue of the land from a foreign rule. That he heard a call to the duty from a higher source than any earthly potentate, none but the skeptic will doubt. The act stands out clear and bold and strong, as one of the finest instances of unselfish patriotism recorded in all history. DR. JOHN M'LOUGHLIN. Any sketch of pioneer Oregon would be incom plete without an honorable mention of Dr. John McLoughlin. He was the Chief Factor of the Hudson Bay Company, an organization inimical to American interests, both for pecuniary and politi cal reasons, and like Whitman, has been maligned and misunderstood. As the leading spirit, during all the stages of pioneer life, his life and acts have an importance second to none. Nothing could have been more important for the comfort and peace of the Missionaries than to have had a man as Supreme Ruler of Oregon, with so keen a sense of justice, as had Dr. McLoughlin. Physically he was a fine specimen of a man. He was six feet, four inches, and well-proportioned. His bushy white hair and massive beard, caused the Indians everywhere to call him, the "Great White Head Chief." He was born in 1784, and was eighteen years DR. M'LOUGHLIN. 245 older than Dr. Whitman. He entered the North- Avestern Fur Company's service in 1800. He after ward studied medicine, and for a time practiced his profession, but his fine business abilities Avere so apparent, that in 1824 we find him at the head of affairs in Oregon. His power over the rough men in the employ of the Company, and the savage tribes who filled their coffers with wealth, was so complete as to be phenomenal. In many of the sketches we have shown that his kindness to the pioneer Missionaries in another and a higher sense, proved his manhood. To obey the orders of his company, and still remain* a hu mane man, Avas something that required tact that few men could have brought to bear as Avell as Dr. McLoughlin. While he did slaughter, financially speaking, traders and fur gatherers right and left, and did his best to serve the pecuniary interests of his great monopoly, he drew the line there, and was the friend and the helper of the missionaries. If the reader could glance through Mrs. Whit man's diary upon the very opening week of her arrival in Oregon, there would not be found any thing but words of kindness and gratitude to Dr. McLoughlin. In justice to his company, to which he was always loyal, he pushed the Methodist mis sions far up the Willamette, and those of the Amer ican Board three hundred miles in another direc tion. But at the same time he was a friend and 246 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. brother and adviser, and anything he had was at their service, whether they had money or not. After the immigration in 1842, and the larger immigration led by Whitman in 1843, the com pany in England became alarmed and sent out spies — Messrs. Park, Vavasaur and Peel, who were enjoined to find out whether McLoughlin was loyal to British interests. After many months spent in studying the situation, their adverse re port is easily inferred from the fact that Dr. Mc Loughlin was ordered to report to headquarters. The full history of that secret investigation has never yet been revealed, but when it is, the whole blame will be found resting upon Whitman and his missionary co-workers, who wrested the land from English rule, and that Dr. McLoughlin aided' tbem to success. When the charge of "Friendship to the mission aries," was made, the old doctor flared up and re plied: "What would you have? Would you have me turn the cold shoulder on the men of God who came to do that for the Indians which this com pany has neglected to do? If we had not helped the immigrants in '42 and '43 and '44, and relieved their necessities, Fort Vancouver would have been destroyed and the world would have treated us as our inhuman conduct deserved; every officer of the Company, from Governor down, would have INGRATITUDE OF THE HUDSON BAY CO. 247 been covered with obloquy, and the Company's business ruined !" But it all resulted in the resignation of Dr. Mc Loughlin. The injustice he received at the hands of Americans afterward, is deeply to be regretted, and it is greatly to the credit of the thinking peo ple of the State of Oregon that they have done their best to remedy the wrong. At many times, and in a multitude of ways, Dr. McLoughlin, by his kindness to the missionaries, won for himself the gratitude of thinking Americans in all the years to come. With a bad man in his place as Chief Fac tor, the old missionaries would have found life in Oregon Avell-nigh unbearable. While true to the exclusive and selfish interests of the great mo nopoly he served, he yet refused to resort to any form of unmanliness. After his abuse by the English company and his severance of all connection with it, he settled at Oregon City' and lived and died an American citi zen. The tongue of slander was freely wagged against him, and his declining years were made miserable by unthinking Americans and revenge ful Englishmen. His property, of which he had been deprived, was returned to his heirs, and to day his memory is cherished as among Oregon's benefactors. A fine oil painting of Dr. McLough lin was secured and paid for by the old pioneers and presented to the State. 248 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. The Hon. John Minto, in making the address at the hanging of the picture, closed with these words: "In this sad summary of such a life as Dr. Mc- Loughlin's, there is a statement that merits our attention, which, if ever proven true, and no man who ever knew Dr. McLoughlin will doubt that he believed it true, namely, that he prevented war between Great Britain and the United States, will show that two of the greatest nations on this earth owe him a debt of gratitude, and that Oregon, in particular, is doubly bound to him as a public ben efactor. British state papers may some day prove all this. "It is now twenty-six years since the Legislative Assembly of the State of Oregon, so far as restora- tion'of property to Dr. McLoughlin's family could undo the wrong of Oregon's Land Bill, gave glad ness to the heart of every Oregon pioneer worthy of the name. All of them yet living, now know that, good man as they believed him, he was bet ter than they knew. They see him now, after the strife and jealousies of race, national, business, and sectarian interests are allayed, standing in the center of all these causes of contention — a po sition in which to please all parties was impossible, to 'Maintain which, only a good man could bear with patience' — and they have adopted this means of conveying their appreciation of this great for- DR. JOHN MCLOUGHLIN, Chief Factor of Hudson Bay Co., at Fort Walla Walla. JUSTICE AT LAST. 249 bearance and patient endurance, combined with his generous conduct. "Looking, then, at this line of action in the light of the merest glimpses of history, knoAvn to be true by witnesses living, can any honest man wonder that the pioneers of Oregon, who have eaten the salt of this man's hospitality, who have been the eye-witnesses to his brave care for hu manity, and participators in his generous aid, are unwilling to go to their graves in silence — which would imply base ingratitude — a silence which would be eloquent Avith falsehood? "Governor and Representatives of Oregon: In recognition of the Avorthy manner in which Dr. John McLoughlin filled his trying and responsible position, in the heartfelt glow of a grateful re membrance of his humane and noble conduct to them, the Oregon pioneers leave this portrait with you, hoping that their descendants will not for get the friend of their fathers, and trusting that this gift of the men and women who led the ad vance which has planted thirty thousand rifles in the Valley of the Columbia, and three hundred thousand, when needed, in the National Domain facing the Pacific Ocean, will be deemed worthy of a place in your halls." CHAPTER XIII. WHITMAN SEMINARY AND COLLEGE. Many institutions of learning have been erected and endowed by the generosity of the rich, but Whitman Seminary and College had its founda tion laid in faith and prayer. Viewed from a worldly standpoint, backed only by a poor mission ary, whose jiossessions could be packed upon the back of a mule, the outlook did not seem promis ing. During all the years of his missionary serv ice in Oregon, none knew better the value of the patriotic Christian service of Dr. and Mrs. Whit man, than did the Rev. Dr. Gushing Eells and his good wife. After the massacre, Dr. Eells, and all his co-workers were moved under military escort to the Willamette, but he writes: "My eyes were constantly turned east of the Cas cade Range, a region I have given the best years of my life to." It was not until 1859 when the country was de clared open, that he visited Walla Walla, and DR. CUSHING EELLS. 251 stood at the "Great grave of Dr. Whitman and his wife." Standing there upon the consecrated spot, he says: "I believe that the power of the Highest came upon me." And there he solemnly vowed that he would do something to honor the Christian mar tyrs whose remains rested in that grave. He says : "I felt as though if Dr. Whitman were alive, he would prefer a high school for the benefit of both sexes, rather than a monument of marble." He pondered the subject and upon reaching home, sought the advice of the Congregational Association. The subject was carefully canvassed by those who well knew all the sad history, and the following note was entered upon the record: "In the judgment of this association, the con templated purpose of Brother C. Eells to remove to Waiilatpui, to establish a Christian school at that place, to be called the Whitman Seminary, in memory of the noble deeds and great works and the fulfillment of the benevolent plans of the late lamented Dr. Whitman and his wife: And his further purpose to act as home missionary in the Walla Walla Valley, meets our cordial approba tion and shall receive our earnest support." Dr. Eells at once resigned from the Tualitin Academy, where he was then teaching, and in 1859 and '60 obtained the charter for the Whitman Seminary. Dr. Eells had hoped to be employed by 252 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the Home Missionary Society, but that organiza tion declined, as its object was not to build semi naries and colleges, but to establish churches. He bought from the American Board for $1,000 the farm of 640 acres where Dr. Whitman had toiled for eleven years. It was Dr. Eells' idea to build a seminary di rectly upon this consecrated ground, and gather a quiet settlement about the school. But he soon found that it would be better to locate the semi nary in the Adllage, at that time made up of five resident families and about one hundred men. It, however, was in sight of the "Great grave." Here the Eells family settled down upon the farm for hard work to raise the funds necessary to erect the buildings necessary for the seminary. He preached without compensation up and down the valley upon the Sabbath, and like Paul, worked with his hands during the week. His first Sum mer's work on the farm brought in $700; enough nearly to pay three-fourths of its cost; thus year after year Dr. Eells and his faithful wife labored on and on. He plowed and reaped, and cut cord wood, while she made butter, and raised chickens and saved every dollar for the one grand purpose of doing honor to their noble friends in the "Great grave" always in sight. Rarely in this world has there been a more beautiful demonstration of loyalty and friendship, FOUNDING WHITMAN COLLEGE. 253 than of Dr. and Mrs. Eells. They lived and labored on the farm for ten years, and endured all the pri vations and isolations common to such a life. An article in the "Congregationalist" says: "Mother Eells' churn with which she made four hundred pounds of butter for sale, ought to be kept for an honored place in the cabinet of Whit man College." It was by such sacrifices that the first $4,000 were raised to begin the buildings. Five yrears had passed after the charter Avas granted, before the seminary was located, and then only on paper. And this Avas seven years before the completion of the first school building; the dedication of which occurred on October 13, 1866. The first principal was the Rev. P. B. Chamber lain, who also organized and was first pastor of the Congregational Church at Walla Walla. In 1880, under the new impulse given to the work by the Rev. Dr. G. H. Atkinson, of Portland, Whit man Seminary developed into Whitman College. This was finally accomplished in 1883. During that year, College Hall was erected at a cost of $16,000. During 1883 and 1884, in the same spirit he had at all times exhibited, Dr. Eells felt it his duty to visit New England in the interest of the institution. He says: "It was the hardest year's work I ever did, to raise that sixteen thousand dollars." 254 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. The old pioneer would much rather have cut cord wood or plowed his fields, if that would have brought in the money for his loved college. The Christian who reads Dr. Eells' diary during the closing years of his life, will easily see how de voted he was to the work of honoring- the mem ory of the occupants of the "Great grave." His diary of May 24, 1890, says: "The needs of Whitman College cause serious thought. My convictions have been that my ef forts in its behalf were in obedience to Divine Will." June 11, 1890. "During intervals of the night I was exercised in prayer for Whitman College. I am persuaded that my prayers are prevailing. In agony I pray for Whitman College." October 2d. "Dreamed of Whitman College and awoke Avith a prayer." His last entry in his diary was: "I could die for Whitman College." The grand old man went to his great reward in February, 1893. Will the Christian people of the land allow such a prayer to go unansAvered? In 1884 Mrs. N. F. Cobleigh did some very effect ive work in canvassing sections of New England in behalf of the college, succeeding in raising $8,000. Dr. Anderson, after his efficient labors of nine years, with many discouragements, resigned the THE NEEDS OF THE COLLEGE. 255 Presidency in 1891, and the Rev. James F. Eaton, another scholarly earnest man, assumed its duties. In the meantime the struggling village of WTalla Walla had grown into the "Garden City," and the demands upon such an institution had increased a hundred fold in the rapid development of the country in every direction. The people began to see the wisdoin of the founder, and cast about for means to make the college more efficient. The Union Journal of Walla Walla, said: "It is our pride. It is the cap sheaf of the edu cational institutions of Walla Walla, and should be the pride and boast of every good Walla Wal- lan. It has a corps of exceptionally good instruct ors, under the guidance of a man possessing breadth of intellect, liberal education and an en thusiastic desire to be successful in his chosen field of labor, with students who rank in natural ability with the best product of any land. But it is deficient in facilities. It lacks room in which to grow. It lacks library and apparatus, the tools of education." President Eaton and the faculty saw this need and the necessity of a great effort. It was under this pressure, and the united desire of the friends of the college that the Rev. Stephen B. L. Penrose, of the "Yale band" assumed the duties of Presi dent in 1894, and began his plans to raise an en dowment fund and place the college upon a sound 256 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. financial basis, as well as to increase its educa tional facilities and requirements. It was the misfortune of these educators to enter the field for money at a time of great finan cial embarrassment, such as has not been experi enced in many decades; but it was at the same time their good fortune to enlist the aid of Dr. D. K. Pearsons of Chicago in the grand work with a generous gift of $50,000, provided that others could be induced to add $150,000 to it. With such a start and with such a man as Dr. Pearsons, there will be no such word as fail. He is a man of faith like Dr. Eells and has long been ad ministering upon his own estate in wise and gen erous gifts to deserving institutions. With such a man to encourage other liberal givers, the endow ment will not stop at $200,000. If Whitman Col lege is to be the Yale and Harvard and Chicago University of the Far West, it must meet with a generous response from liberal givers. Its name alone ought to be worth a million in money. When the people are educated in Whitman history, the money Avill come and the prayers of Dr. Eells will be answered. The millions of people love fair play and honest dealing and can appreciate solid work, and they will learn to love the memory of the modest hero, and will be glad to do him honor in so practical a method. It will soon be half a century since WHITMAN'S NAME WILL LIVE. 257 Dr. Whitman and his noble Avife fell at their post of duty at Waiilatpui. Had Dr. Whitman been a millionaire, a man of noble birth, had he been a military man or a statesman, his praise would have been sung upon historic pages as the praise of others has. But he was only a poor mission ary doctor, who lost his life in the vain effort to civilize and Christianize savages, and an army of modern historians seem to have thought, as Ave have shown in another chapter, that the world would sit quietly by and see and applaud while they robbed him of his richly won honors. In that they have over-reached themselves. The name of Dr. Marcus Whitman will be honored and re vered long after the names of his traducers have been obliterated and forgotten. It is a name with a history, which will grow in honor and importance as the great States he saved to the Union will groAv into the grandeur they naturally assume. There is not a clearer page of history in all the books than that Dr. Whitman, under the leading of Providence, saved the States of Oregon, Washington and Idaho to the Union. There is a possibility that by a long and destructive war we might have held them as against the claims of England. There were just two men who prevented that Avar and those two men were Drs. Whitman and McLoughlin. The latter indirectly by his humane and civilized 258 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. treatment of the missionaries when he might have crushed them, and the former b.v his unparalleled heroism in his mid-Avinter ride to Washington, and his wisdom in piloting the immigrations to Oregon just the year that he did. History correctly written, will truthfully say, "When Whitman fell at Waiilatpui, one of the grandest heroes of this century went to his great reward." The State of Washington has done Avell to name a great county to perpetuate his mem ory; Dr. Eells did a noble act in founding Whit man Seminary, and the time is coming and is near at hand, when the young men and women of ithe country will prize a diploma inscribed with the magic name of Whitman. Endow the college and endow it generously. Make it worthy of the man whose love of country felt that no task was too difficult and no danger so great as to make him hesitate. After the endowment is full and complete, a great College Hall should be erected from a pa triotic fund, and upon the central pillar should be inscribed: "Sacred to the memory of Dr. Marcus and Narcissa Whitman. While lifting up the banner of the cross in one hand to redeem and saA'e savage souls, they thought it no Avrong to carry the flag of the country they loved in the other." There is no such thing as dividing the honors. EQUAL HONOR DUE DR. AND MRS. WHITMAN. 259 Theyr are simply Whitman honors; they lived and labored and achieved together; the bride upon the plains and in the mission home Avas a heroine scarcely second to the hero Avho swam icy rivers and climbed the snow-covered mountains in 1842 and 1843, upon his patriotic mission. It is a work that may well engage the patriotic women of America; for true womanhood has never had a more beautiful setting than in the life of Narcissa Whitman. At the death, by drowning, of her only child, that she almost idolized, she bowed humbly and said : "Thy Will be done !" And upon the day of her death, she was mother to eleven helpless adopted children, for whose safety she prayed in her expiring moments. What an unselfish life she led. In her diary she says, but in no complaining mood: "Situ ated as we are, our house is the Missionaries' tavern, and we must accommodate more or less all the time. We have no less than seven families in our two houses; we are in peculiar and some what trying circumstances; we cannot sell to them because we are missionaries and not trad ers." And we see by the record that there were no less than seA^enty souls in the Whitman family the day of the massacre. Emerson says: "Heroism is an obedience to a secret impulse of individual character, and the 260 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. characteristics of genuine heroism is its persist ency." Where was it ever more strongly marked than in Dr. Whitman? We are told that "History re peats itself." Going back upon the historic pages, one can find the best illustration of Dr. Whitman in faithful old Caleb. Their lives seem to run along similar lines. Both were sent to spy out the land. Both returned and made true and faith ful reports. Both were selected for their great physical fitness, and for their fine mental and moral worth; and both proved among the finest specimens of unselfish manhood ever recorded. Turning to the Sacred Record Ave read that a great honor was ordered for Caleb; not only that he was permitted to enter the promised land, but it was also understood by all, that he should haAre the choice of all the fair country they were to oc cupy. His associates sent with him forty years before were terribly afraid of "the giants," and now they had reached "The land of promise," and Joshua had assembled the leaders of Israel to as sign them their places. Just notice old Caleb. Standing in view of the meadows and fields and orchards, loaded with their rich clusters of purple grapes, everybody expected he would select the best, for they knew that it was both promised and he deserved it; but Caleb, lifting up his voice so that all could hear, said: A MONUMENT TO THE HEROES. 261 "Lo, I am this day four score and five years old. As yet I am as strong this day as I Avas in the day that Moses sent me; as my strength was then, even so is my strength now for war, both to go out and to come in. Now, therefore, give me this mountain whereof the Lord spoke in that day ; for thou heardest in that day how the Anakims were there, and that the cities were great and fenced. If so be, the Lord will be with me, then I shall be able to drive them out as the Lord said." Noble, unselfish old Caleb! And how wonder fully like him was our hero thirty-four and a half centuries later. It mattered not that he had saved a great country, twice as large as New York, Penn sylvania and Illinois combined, or thirty-two times as large as Massachusetts. It mattered not that it was accomplished through great peril and trials and sufferings that no man can over-estimate, he never once asked a reward. "Give me this moun tain," and he went back to his mission, and re sumed his heavy burden, and let others gather the harvest, and "the clusters of purple grapes." There he was found at his post of duty, and met death on that fatal November the 29th, 1847. When a generous people have made the en dowment complete, and built the grand Memorial Hall, they should build a monument at the "Great Grave" at Waiilatpui. Americans are patriotic. They build monuments to their men of science, to 262 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. their statesmen and to their soldiers. It is right to do so. They are grand object lessons, educating the young in patriotism and virtue and right liv ing. The monument at no grave in all the land will more surety teach all these, than will that at the neglected grave at Waiilatpui. Build the monu ment and tell your children's children to go and stand uncovered in its shadow, and receive its les sons and breathe in its inspirations of patriotism. CHAPTER XIV. OREGON THEN, AND OREGON, WASHINGTON AND IDAHO NOW. The beginning of a People, a State or a Nation is always an interesting study, and when the be ginning has resulted in a grand success, the inter est increases. It is seldom that in the lifetime of the multitudes of living actors, so great a trans formation can be seen as that to-day illustrated in the Pacific States. Fifty years ago, the immigrant, after his long journey over arid plains, after SAvim- ming rivers and climbing three ranges of moun tains, stood upon the last slope, and beheld primeval beauty spread out before him. The mil lions of acres of green meadows had never been disturbed by a furrow, and in the great forest the sound of the woodman's ax had neArer been heard. Coming by way of the great river, as it meets the incoming waves of the Pacific, the scene is still more one of grandeur. Astoria, at that time, had a few straggling huts, and Portland was a village, with its streets so full of stumps as to require a 264 HOW, MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. good driver to get through with safety, and was referred to as a town twelve miles beloAV Oregon City. To the writer nothing has left such an impres sion of wilderness and solitude as a journey up the Willamette, forty-five years ago, in a birch-bark canoe, paddled by two Indian guides. The wild ducks Avere scarcely disturbed, and dropped to the water a hundred yards away, and the three- pronged buck, browsing among the lily pads, stopped to look at the unusual invasion of his do main, and went on feeding. The population of Oregon in that year, 1850, as shown by census, was 13,294, and that included all of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho, with a part of Wyoming and Montana. After years of importunity, Congress had given Oregon a Territorial Government in 1849. Prior to that — -from 1843 to 1849 — it was an independent American government, for the people and by the people. Notwithstanding the neglect of Oregon by the General Government, and its entire failure to foster or protect, the old pioneers were true and loyal American citizens, and for six years took such care of themselves as they were able, and performed the task so well as to merit the best words of commendation. The commerce of the country, aside from its furs, was scarcely worth mentioning. The author, REV. STEPHEN B. L. PENROSE, President of Whitman College. THE SALMON. 265 in 1851, bought what fe\v salted salmon there were in the market, and shipped them to San Francisco, but wise and prudent advisers regarded it as a risky venture. He would have been considered a wild A'isionary, indeed, had he even hinted of the shipments of fish now annually made to all parts of the civilized world. It was then known that the rivers were filled with fish. In the spring of the year, the smaller streams, leading away from the Columbia, were literally blocked with almost solid masses of fish on their way to their spawning grounds. The bears along the Columbia, as well as the Indians, had an unlimited supply of the finest fish in the world, with scarcely an effort to take them. An Indian on the Willamette, at the foot of the falls, could fill his boat in an hour with salmon weigh ing from twenty to forty pounds. In the spring of the year, when the salmon are running up the Willamette, they begin to jump from the water a quarter of a mile before reach ing the falls. One could sit in a boat and see hundreds of the great fish in the air constantly. Multitudes of them maimed and killed themselves jumping against the rocks at the falls. The Indian did not wait for "a rise" or "a bite." He had a hook with an eye socket, and a pole ten feet or more long. The hook he fastened to a deer thong, about two feet long, attached to the lower 266 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. end of the pole. When ready for fishing the pole was inserted into the socket of the hook, and he felt for his fish, and by a sudden jerk caught it in the belly. The hook was pulled from the pole, and the fish had a play of the two feet of deer thong. But the Indian never stops to experiment; he hauled in his prize. The great forests and prairies were a very para dise for the hunters of large game. Up to the date of 1842-3, of Dr. Whitman's ride, but a single hun dred Americans had settled in Oregon, and they seemed to be almost accidental guests. The immi gration in 1842 swelled the list, and the caravan of 1843 started the tide, so that in 1850, as we have seen, the first census showed an American popula tion of 13,294. In 1890, in contrast, the population of Wash ington was 349,390; Oregon, 313,767; Idaho, 84,- 385, and five counties in Southwestern Montana and one in Wyoming, originally Oregon territory, had a population of 65,802, making a total of 813,- 404. Considering the difficulties of reaching these distant States for many years, this change, in less than half a century, is a wonderful transformation. The Indians had held undisputed possession of the land for generations, and yet, as careful a cen sus as could be made, placed their number at below 75,000. In 1892 the Indian Commissioner marks the number at 21,057. OREGON IN 1838. 267 The great changes are seen in the fact that in 183S there were but thirteen settlements by white men in Oregon, viz.: That at Waiilatpui, at Lap- wai, at the Dalles and near Salem, and the Hudson Bay Forts at Walla Walla, Colville, Fort Hall, Boise, Vancouver, Nisqually, Umpqua, Okanogan and the settlement at Astoria. The old mission aries felt thankful when letters reached them within two years after they were written. Mrs. Whitman's first letter from home was two years and six months reaching the mission. The most sure and safe route was by way of New York or Montreal to London, around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands, from which place a vessel sailed every,year for Columbia. The wildest visionaries at that time had not dreamed of being bound to the East by bands of steel, as Senator McDuffie said: "The wealth of the Indies would be insuffi cient to connect by steam the Columbia River to the States of the East." Uncle Sam seems to have been taking a very sound and peaceful nap. He did not own California, and was even desirous of trading Oregon for the cod fisheries of Newfound land. The debt of gratitude the Americans owe to the men and women who endured the privations of that early day, and educated the Nation into the knowledge of its future .glory and greatness, has not been fully appreciated. The settlers of no 268 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. other States of the frontier encountered such se vere tests of courage and loyalty. The Middle States of the Great West, Avhile they had. their hardships and trials, were always within reach of the strong arm of the Government, and felt its fostering care, and had many comforts which were wholly beyond the reach of the Oregon pioneers. Their window glass for years and years was dressed deer skin; their parlor chairs Avere square blocks of wood; their center tables were made by driving down four sticks and sawing boards by hand for top, the nearest saw mill being four1 hun dred miles off. A ten-pennyr nail was prized as a jewel, and until Dr. Whitman built his mill, a barrel of flour cost him twenty-four dollars, and in those days that amount of money was equal to a hundred in our times of to-day. The plows were all wood, and deer thongs took the place of iron in binding the parts together. It was ten years after the}' began to raise wheat before they had any other implement than the sickle, and for threshing, the wooden flail. It was in the year 1839 the first printing jn'ess reached Oregon. It may be marked as among the pioneer civilizers of this now great and prosperous Chris tian land. That press has a notable history and is to-day preserved at the State Capital of Oregon as a relic of by-gone days in printing. Long before the civil- THE FIRST PRINTING PRESS. 269 ization of Oregon had begun in 1819, the Congre gational Missionaries to the Sandwich Islands had imported this press around the Horn from NeAv England, and from that time up to 1839 it had served an excellent purpose in furnishing Chris tian literature to the Kanakas. But the Sandwicli Islanders had grown beyrond it; and being pre sented with a finer outfit, the First Native Church at Honolulu made a present of the press, ink and paper to the Missions of Waiilatpui, LapAvai and Walker's Plains. The whole was valued at $450 at that time. The press was located at Lapwai, and used to print portions of Scripture and hymn books in the Nez Perces language, which books were used in all the missions of the American Board. Visitors to these tribes of Indians twenty-five yrears after the mis sions had been broken up, and the Indians had been dispersed, found copies of those books still in use and prized as great treasures. Another interesting event was the building of the first steamer, the Lot Whitcomb, in the Colum bia River Avaters. This steamer Avas built of Ore gon fir and spruce, and was launched December 26th, 1850, at Milwaukee, then a rival of Portland. It was a staunch, well-equipped vessel, one hun dred and sixty feet in length; beam, twenty-four feet; depth of held, six feet ten inches; breadth over all, forty-two feet seven inches; diameter of 270 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. wheel, nineteen feet; length of bucket, seven feet; dip one foot eight inches, and draft three feet two inches. It was a staunch and elegantly-equipped little vessel; did good serAdce in the early days, making three round trips each week, from Mil waukee to Astoria, touching at Portland and Van- couver, then the only stopping places. The Whit- comb was finally7 sent to California, made over, named Annie Abernethy, and was used upon the Sacramento River as a pleasure and passenger boat. These two beginnings, of the printer's art and the steamer, are all the more interesting when compared with the richness and show in the same fields to-day. The palatial ocean traveling steam ers and the power presses and papers, scarcely second to any in editorial and news-gathering ability, best tell the wonderful advance from com paratively nothing at that time. The taxable property of Oregon in 1893 was $168,088,095; in Washington it was $283,110,032; in Idaho, $34,276,000. The manufactories of Ore gon in 1893 turned out products to the value of $245,100,267, and Washington, on fisheries alone, yielded a product valued at $915,500. There has been a great falling off, both in Oregon and Wash ington, in this source of wealth, and the eager desire to make money will cause the annihilation of this great traffic, unless there is better legal OREGON'S WEALTH. 271 protection. Washington, in 1893, reported 227 saw mills and 300 shingle mills and 73 sash and door mills, and a capital invested in the lumber trade of $25,000,000. A wonderful change since Dr. Whitman sawed his boards by hand as late as 1840. The acres of forest yet undisturbed in Washing ton are put down at 23,588,512. During President Harrison's term a wooded tract in the Cascade Mountains, thirty-five by forty miles, including Mount Rainier, was withdrawn from entry, and it is expected that Congress will reserve it for a Na tional Park. The statistics relating to wheat, wool and fruits of all kinds fully justify the claim made by Dr. Whitman to President Tyler and Sec retary Webster — that "The United States had bet ter by far give all NeAv England for the cod fish eries of Newfoundland than to sacrifice Oregon." Reading the statistics of Avealth of the States comprising the original territory of Oregon, their fisheries, their farm products, their lumber, their mines, yet scarcely begun to be developed, one Avonders at the blindness and ignorance of our statesmen fifty or more years ago, who came so near losing the whole great territory. If Secre tary Daniel Webster could have stepped into the buildings of Washington, Oregon and Idaho that contained the wonderful exhibit at the World's Fair, he would doubtless have lifted his thoughts 272 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. with profound gratitude that Dr. Whitman made his winter ride and saved him from making the blunder of all the century. If old Senator McDuffie who averred that "The wealth of the Indies could not pay for connecting by steam the Columbia River Avith the States," could now take his place in a palace car of some one of the four great transcontinental lines, and be whirled over "the inaccessible mountains, and the intervening desert wastes," he, too, might be willing to give more than "A pinch of snuff" for our Pacific possessions. The original boundaries of Oregon contained over 300,000 square miles, which included all the country aboAre latitude 42 degrees and west of the Rocky Mountains. Its climate is mild and delight ful, and in great variety, owing to the natural divisions of great ranges of mountains, and the AArarm ocean currents which impinge upon its shores, with a rapid current from the hot seas of Asia. This causes about seventy per cent of the winds to blow from the southwest, bringing the warmth of the tropics to a land many hundreds of miles north of New York and Boston. It is felt even at Sitka, nearly 2,000 miles further north than Boston, where ice cannot be gathered for summer use, and whose harbor has never yet been obstructed by ice. The typical features of the climate of Western DR. DANIEL K. PEARSONS. CLIMATE OF OREGON. 273 Oregon are the rains of Winter and a protracted rainless season in Summer. In other Avords, there are two distinct seasons in Oregon — wet and dry. Snows in Winter and rains in Summer are excep tional. In Eastern Oregon the climate more nearly approaches conditions in Eastern States. There are not the same extremes, but there are the same features of Winter snow, and, in places, of Summer heat. Southern Oregon is more like Eastern than Western Oregon. In Eastern Oregon the temperature is lower in Winter and higher in Summer than in Western. The annual rainfall varies from seven to twenty- inches. The Springs in Oregon are delightful; the Sum mers very pleasant. They are practically rainless, and almost always without great extremes of heat. Fall rains usually begin in October. It is a note worthy feature of Oregon Summers, that nights are always cool and refreshing. The common valley soil of the State is a rich loam, with a subsoil of clay. Along the streams it is alluvial. The "beaverdam lands" of this class are wonderfully fertile. This soil is made through the work of the beavers who dammed up streams and created lakes. When the water was drained away, the detritus covered the ground. The soil of the uplands is less fertile than that of the bot toms and valleys, and is a red, brown and black 274 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED. OREGON. loam. It produces an excellent quality^ of natural grass, and under careful cultivation, produces good crops of grain, fruits and vegetables. East of the Cascade Mountains the soil is a dark loam of great depth, composed of alluvial deposits and decom posed lava, overlying a clay subsoil. The constit uents of this soil adapt the land peculiarly to the production of wheat. All the mineral salts which are necessary to the perfect development of this cereal are abundant, reproducing themselves constantly as the grad ual processes of decomposition in this soil of vol canic origin proceeds. The clods are easily broken by the plow, and the ground quickly crumbles on exposure to the atmosphere. In Northwestern Oregon, adjacent to the Co lumbia River, although the dry season continues for months, this light porous land retains and ab sorbs enough moisture from the atmosphere, after the particles have been partly disintegrated, to insure perfect development and full harvests. In Southeastern Oregon, especially in the vast areas of fertile lands in Malheur and Snake River Valleys, the soils are much like those of the North eastern Oregon region, but there is less moisture. Except in a very small portion of this region, irri gation is necessary to successful agriculture. The water supply is abundant and easily applied. We have made no attempt to write a complete THE FLAG OF BEAUTY AND GLORY. 275 history of this great section or its wealth, but only to outline such facts as will make more impressive the value to the Avhole people of the distinguished services of the pioneers who saved this garden spot of the world to the people of the United States. "The Flag of Beauty and Glory" waves over no fairer land, or over no more intelligent, prosperous and happy people. All this too has been reached within the memory of multitudes of living actors; in fact, it can be said the glow of youth is yet upon the brow of the young States. The lover of romance in reality will scarcely re press a sigh of regret, that with Oregon and Wash ington, the western limit of pioneering has been reached, after the strides of six thousand years. The circuit of the globe has been completed and the curtain dropped upon the farther shores of Oregon and Washington, with a history as pro foundly interesting and dramatic as that written on any section of the world. "The Stars and Stripes" now wave from ocean to ocean, and from the Great Lakes to the Gulf. It is a nation of grand possibilities, w hose history would have been marred for all time to come, had any foreign power, however good or great, held possession of the Pacific States. With China open to the world's commerce; with the young giant Japan inciting all the Far East to a ncnv life and energy, the Pa cific States of the Republic stand in the very gate- 276 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. way of the world's footsteps, and commerce and wealth. Only when measured in and by the light of such facts, can we fully estimate the value to the whole people of the Nation of the midwinter ride of our hero, and to the brave pioneers of Oregon. CHAPTER XV. LIFE ON THE GREAT PLAINS IN PIONEER DAYS. Nothing better shows the rapid advance of civ ilization in this country, than the fact that multi tudes of the actors of those eA^entful years of pio neer life in Oregon and California yet live to see and enjoy the wonderful transformation. In fact, the pioneer, most of all others, can, in its greatest fullness, take in and grasp the luxuries of modern life. Taking his section in a palace car in luxurious ease, he travels in six days over the same road which he wearily traveled, forty-five and fifty years ago, in from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and ninety days. The fact is not without interest to him that for more than a thousand miles of the way on the great central routes, he can throw a stone from the car window into his old camping grounds. The old plainsmen were not bad surveyors. They may not have been advanced in trigonom etry or logarithms, but they had keen eyes and 278 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. ripe practical judgment, which enabled them to master the situation. The trails marked and trav eled by the old missionaries, nine times in every ten, proved the best. Many a time did I, and oth ers, by taking what seemed to be inviting "cut offs," find out to our sorrow that the old trailers of ten years before us had been wiser. I make this a chapter of personal experience, not for any personal gratification, but because of the desire to make it real and true in every particular, and because the data and incidents of travel of the old missionaries are meager and incomplete. The experiences in 1836, 1843 and 1850, were much the same, save and except that in 1850 the way was more plainly marked than in 1836, which then Avas nothing more than an Indian trail, and even that often misleading. Besides that, the pio neer corps had made passable many danger points, and had even left ferries over the most dangerous rivers. From 1846 to 1856 were ten years of great ac tivity upon the frontier. The starting points for the journey across the plains were many and scat tered, from where Kansas City now stands to Fort LeaATenworth. The time of which I write was 1850. Our little company of seven chosen friends, all young and in experienced in any form of wild life, resolved upon the journey, and began preparations in 1849 and OUR EQUIPMENT. 279 were ready in March, 1850, to take a steamer at Cincinnati for Fort Leavenworth. We had con sulted every authority' within reach as to our out fit, both for our safety and comfort, and few voy agers ever started upon the long journey who had nearer the essential things, and so few that proved useless. In one thing we violated the recommendations of all experienced plainsmen, and that was in the purchase of stock. We were advised to buy only mustangs and Mexican mules, but chose to buy in Ohio the largest and finest mules we could find. Our wagons were selected with great care as to every piece of timber and steel in their make-up, and every leather and buckle in the harness was scrutinized. Instead of a trunk, each carried clothes and val uables in a two-bushel rubber bag, which could be made water-tight or air-tight, if required. Extra shoes were fitted to the feet of each mule and rid ing horse and one of the number proved to be an expert shoer. The supply of provisions was made a careful study7, and we did not have the uncom fortable experience of Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, and run out of flour before the journey was half over. There is nothing that develops the manhood of a man, or the lack of it, more quickly than life on the plains. There is many a man surrounded byr the sustaining influence of the home and of re- 280 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. fined society, who seems very much of a man; and yet when these influences are removed, he wilts and dwarfs. I have seen men who had been relig ious leaders and exemplary in their lives, come from under all such restraints, and, within two months, "swear like troopers." Our little company was fortunate in being made up of a manly set of young men, who resolved to stand by each other and each do his part. We soon joined the Mt. Sterling Mining Company, led by Major Fellows and Dr. C. P. Schlater, from Mt. Sterling, Ills. They were an excellent set of men and our company was then large enough for pro tection from any danger in the Indian country, and we kept together without a jar of any kind. In the year 1850, the Spring upon the frontier was backward. The grass, a necessity for the cam paigner upon the plains, was too slow for us, so we bought an old Government wagon, in addition to our regular wagons, filled it with corn, and upon May 1st, struck out through Kansas. It was then unsettled by white people. On the 5th day of May, we woke up to find the earth enveloped in five inches of snow, and matters looked discouraging, but the sun soon shone out and the snow disappeared and we began to enter into the spirit and enjoyment of the wild life be fore us. The Indians were plentiful and visited us fre- THE LOG SCHOOL HOUSE ON THE WILLAMETTE. TAKING TURNS. 281 quently, but they Avere all friendly that year Avith the Avhites throughout the border. A war party of the Cheyenne Indians visited us on their way to fight their enemy, the Pawnees. They were, physically7, the finest body of men I ever saw. We treated them hospitably and they would have given up their fight and gone with us on a grand buffalo hunt, had we consented. The chief would hardly take no for an answer. One of the great comforts of the plains traveling in those days, was order and system. Each man knew his duty each day and each night. One day a man would drive; another he would cook; another he would ride on horseback. When we reached the more dangerous Indian country, our camp was arranged for defense in case of an at tack, but we always left our mules picketed out to grass all night, and never left them without a guard. About the most trying labor of that journey was picket duty over the mules at night, especially when the grass was a long distance from the camp, as it sometimes was. After a long day's travel it was a lonesome, tiresome task to keep up all night, or even half of it. The animals were tethered with a rope eighteen feet long buckled to the fore leg, and the other end attached to an iron pin twelve to eighteen inches long, securely driven into the ground. As the animals fed they were moved so 282 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. as to keep them upon the best pasture. In spite of the best care they would occasionally cross and the mischief would be to jiay, unless promptly re lieved. Our greatest fear was from the danger of a stampede, either from Indians or from wild ani mals. The Indian regards it as a great accomplish ment to steal a horse from a Avhite man. One day7 a well-dressed and very polite Indian came into camp where we were laying by for a rest. He could talk broken English and mapped out the country in the sand over the route we were to travel — told us all about good water and plenty of grass. He informed us that for some days we would go through the good Indian's country, but then we came to the mountains; and then he be gan to paw the air AA7ith his arms and snap an imaginary whip and shout, "Gee Buck — wo haw, damn ye!" Then says our good Indian, "Look out for hoss thieves." Then he got down in the grass and showed us how the Indian would Aviggle along in the grass until he found the picket pin and lead his horse out so slowly that the guard would not notice the change, until he Avas outside the line, when he would mount and ride away. That very night two of the best horses of the Mt. Sterling Mining Company were stolen in just that way, and to make the act more grieA7ous, they were picketed so near to the tents as to seem to the A SLIPPERY VISITOR. 283 guards to be perfectly7 safe. We may have mis judged our "good Indian" who came into camp, but Ave have always believed that he was there to see whether there were any horses worth stealing, and then did the stealing himself. We can bear testimony also, that he was a good geographer. His map made in the sand and trans ferred to paper was perfect, and when we came to the mountains, his "Gee Buck, wo haw, damn ye!" was heard all up and down that mountain. The Indian had evidently been there and kneAV Avhat he was saying. They gave us but little trouble except to watch our live stock, as the Indian never takes equal chances. He wants always three chances to one, in his favor. To show you are afraid, is to lose the contest with an Indian. I have many times, by showing a brave front, saved my scalp. Upon one occasion when I had several loose mules leading, I allowed myself unthinkingly to lag for two miles behind the company7 through a dangerous district. I was hurrying to amend the wrong by a fast trot, when upon a turn in the road a vicious-looking Indian, with his bow half bent and an arrow on the string, stepped from be hind ja sage bush to the middle of the road and sig naled me to stop when twenty feet away. I was unarmed and made up my mind at once to show no fear. Upon coming within six or eight feet of him, I drove the spurs into my horse and ' 2S4 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. gave such a yell that the Indian had all he could do to dodge my horse's feet. He was evidently astonished and thought, from the boldness of the move, that I had others near by. My7 horse and inules went on a dead run and I expected, as I leaned forward, every moment to feel his arrow. I glanced back when fifty yards aAvay and he was anxiously looking back to see Avho else was coming and I was out of his reach before he had made up his mind. I Avas never worse frightened. Upon another occasion I bluffed an Indian just as effectively. With tAvo companions I went to a Sioux village to buy a pair of moccasins. They were at peace and we felt no danger. Most of the men were absent from the village, leaving only7 a small guard. I got separated from my compan ions, but found an Indian making moccasins, and I stood in the door and pointed to a new pair about the size I wanted, that hung on the ridge pole, and showed him a pair of handsome suspenders that I would give him for them. He assented by a nod and a grunt, came to the door, took the suspenders and hung them up, deliberately sat down on the floor and took off a dirty old pair he was wearing and threw them to me. I immediately threw them back, and stepping into the tepee, caught hold of the moccasins I had bought, but by a quick motion he snatched them from me. I then caught hold of the suspenders and A CLOSE CALL. 285 bounded out of the door. When fifty feet away I looked back and he had just emerged from his tepee and began loading his rifle. I had emptied both barrels of my shotgun at a plover just before reaching the village and my gun Avas fortunately unloaded. It gave us equal chances: I stopped still, threw my gun from the strap and began load ing. In those days I was something of an expert and before the Indian withdrew his ramrod, I was putting caps on both barrels and he bounded in side his wigwam, and I lost no time in putting a tepee between us, and finding my friends, when we hastily took leave. Our company took great comfort and pride in our big American mules, trained in civilized Ohio. A pair of the largest, the wheelers in the six-mule team, were as good as setter dogs at night. They neither liked Indians, wolves nor grizzlies; and their scent was so keen they7 could smell their ene mies two hundred y7ards away, unless the wind was too strong. When on guard, and in a lonesome, dangerous place, we generally7 kept close to our long-eared friends, and when they stopped eating and raised their heads and pointed those ponderous ears in any direction, we would drop in the grass and hold ourselves ready for any emergency. They would never resume their feeding until assured that the danger had passed. 286 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. And then what.. faithful fellows to pull! At a word they would plant their feet on a mountain side and never allow the wagon to give back a sin gle foot, no matter how precipitous; and again at the word, they would pull with the precision of a machine. The off-leader, "Manda," was the handsomest mule ever harnessed. As everybody remarked, "She was as beautiful as a picture." She would pull and stand and hold the wagon as obedient to command as an animal could be, but she was by nature wild and vicious. She was the worst kicker I ever saw. She allowed herself to be shod, seem ing to understand that this was a necessity. But no man ever succeeded in riding her. She beat the trick mules in any circus in jumping and kick ing. One night we had a stampede, and one of the flying picket pins struck the mule between the bones of the hind leg, cutting a deep gash, four inches or more long; the swelling of the limb caus ing the wound to gape open fully two inches. She did not attempt to bear her weight upon the limb, barely touching it to the ground. The flies were very bad, and knowing the animal, and while priz ing her so highly, we were all convinced that we must leave her. The train pulled out. It was my duty that morning to bring on the loose stock, and see that nothing of value was overlooked in camp. MANDA, THE MULE. 287 I was ready to leave, when I went up to the mule that had come Avith us all the way7 from home, nearly three thousand miles, and had been a faith ful servant, and began petting her, expressing my pity and sorrow that Ave had to leave her here for the Indians and the AYolves. As I rubbed her head and talked to her, the poor dumb brute seemed to understand every word said. NeA7er before in all the long journey had the fa mous six-mrdeteam gone without Manda prancing as off leader. She rubbed me with her nose and laid it upon my shoulder, and seemed to beg as eloquently as a dumb beast can, "Don't leave me behind." With it all, there was a kindly look in her eye, I never before had seen. I stood strok ing her head for some time, then I jiatted her neck and walked a little back, but constantly on guard. It was then the animal turned her head and looked at me, and at the same time held up the wounded leg. My friend Moore, who had staid back to as sist, was a little distance off, and I called him. As he came up, I said to him: "This mule has had a change of heart." He put a bridle upon her so that he could hold up her head, and rubbing her side, I finally ventured to take hold of the wounded leg. I rubbed it and fondled it without her showing any7 symptom of resentment. I got out instruments, sewed the wound up, and sewed bandages tight about the leg, made a capital 288 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. dressing and we started, leading Manda. She soon began to bear weight upon the wounded limb, and had no difficulty in keeping up with the train. When the bandages would get misplaced, one could get down in the road with no one to assist, and adjust them. We took Manda all the way7, and no handsomer animal ever jonrneyTed across the plains. She was never known to kick afterward. People call it "instinct in animals," but the more men know and study dumb life, the more theyT are impressed with their reasoning intelligence. Dr. Whitman's mule, finding camp in the blinding snow storm on the mountains, when the shrewd guide was hopelessly lost; my old horse leading me and my friend in safety through the Mississippi River back water in the great forest of Arkansas, as well as this, which I have told without an em bellishment, all teach impressively the duty of kindness that we owe to (our dumb friends. In Mrs. Whitman's diary we frequently find al lusion to her faithful pony7, and her sympathy Avith him when the grass is scarce and the work hard, is but an evidence of true nobility in the woman. In a long journey like the one made from Ohio to the Pacific Coast, it is wonderful what an affec tion grows up between man and his dumb helpers. And there is no mistaking- the fact that animals appreciate and reciprocate such kindness. Even our dog was no exception. ROVER. 289 As I have started in to introduce my7 dumb as sociates, it would be a mistake, especially for my bov readers, to omit Rover. He Avas a vouna dog when Ave started, but he Avas a dog of thorough education and large experience before he reached the end of his journey. He Avas no dog Avith a long- pedigree of illustrious ancestors, but Avas a mixed St. Bernard and Newfoundland, and grew up large, stately and dignified. He was petted, but never spoiled. When he was tired and wanted to ride, he knew how to tell the fact and was never told that he was nothing but a dog. He was no shirk as a walker, but the hot sal- eratus dust and sand wore out his feet. We took the fresh skin of an antelope and made boots for him, but when no one was looking at him he would gnaw them off. When the company separated after reaching the coast, Rover, by unanimous con sent, went with his favorite master, J. S. Nis wander, now a gray-haired, honored citizen of Gil- roy, Cal. A few years ago I visited Niswander and Dr. J. Doan, who, Avith myself, are the only living survivors of our company, and he gave me the history of Rover after I left for Oregon. Niswander was a famous grizzly bear hunter, and with Rover as a companion, he made journeys prospecting for gold, and hunting, long distances from civilization. When night came the pack mule was picketed near by7 and a big fire built, 290 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SA\TED OREGON. with plenty of wood to keep it replenished during the night. Rover laid himself against his master's feet, and in case of danger he would always Avaken him with a low growl close to his ear, and when this Avas done, he would lope off in the dark and find out what it was, while Niswander held his gun and revohTer ready for use. If the dog came back and lay down he knew at once it Avas a false alarm and dropped to sleep in perfect security7. At one time he brought among his provisions a small firkin of butter, a great luxury at that time. He took the firkin and set it in the shade of a great red-wood, tumbled off the rest of his goods, picketed his mule, and went off prospecting for gold, telling Rover to take care of the things until he returned. He was gone all day and returned late in the evening, and looking around could not see his firkin of butter. He told me he turned to the old dog and said: "Rover, I never knew you to do such a trick before and I am ashamed of you." The old fellow only hung his head upon being- scolded. But soon after Mr. N. noticed a suspi cious pile of leaA-es about the roots of the tree, and when he had turned them aside he found his firkin of butter untouched. The high wind Avhich had arisen had blown the paper cover from the butter and the dog knew it ought to be covered, and Avith his feet and nose HARDSHIPS ON THE PLAINS. 291 had gathered the leaves for more than a rod around and coA7ered it up. The Indians finally poisoned the old dog for the purpose of robbing his master. Said he: "When Rover died I shed more -tears than I had shed for years." While reading, as I haA7e, Mrs. Whitman's daily diary of her journey7 in 1836, I am most astonished at the lack of all complaints and murmurings. I know so Avell the perils and discomforts she met on the way and see her every day, cheerful and smiling and happy, and filled with thankfulness for blessings receiATed, that she seems for the veryT absence of an}- repining, to be a woman of the most exalted character. I have traveled for days and weeks through sal- eratus dust that made lips, face and eyes torment- ingly sore, while the throat and air tubes seemed to be raw. She barely mentions them. I have camped many a time, as she doubtless did, where the water was poisonous with alkali, and unfit for man or beast. I haA'e been stung by buffalo fiies until the sting of a Jersey mosquito would be a positiATe luxury. She barely mentions the pests. She does once mildly say: "The mosquitoes Avere so thick that we could hardly breathe," and that "the fleas covered all our garments" and made life a burden until she could get clear of them. Then there were snakes. As far as I know she 292 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. neA7er once complained of snakes. This makes it all the more necessary in giA7ing a true picture of pioneering upon the plains, to give a real experi ence. There is nothing more hateful than a snake. We were introduced to the prairie rattler very early in the journey and some had sport over it. We all wore high, rattlesnake boots; they Avere heaA-y and hard on the feet that had been accus tomed to softer coA-ering. One of our gallant boys had received a present of a pair of beautiful embroidered slippers from a loved friend, and after supper he threw off those high snake boots and put on his slippers. Just then he Avas reminded that it was his duty that night to assist in picketing the mules in fresh pasture. He got hold of two lariats and started off singing "The (Jirl I Left Behind Me." About one hundred and fifty yards off he heard that ominous rattle near by and he dropped those lariats and came into camp at a speed that elicited cheers from the entire crowd. Early in the journey an old Indian told me how to keep the snakes from our beds, and that was to get a lariat made from the hair of a buffalo's neck and lay it entirely7 around the bed. I got the lariat and seldom went to sleep Avithout being inside of its coil. It is a fact that a snake will not willingly crawl over such a rope. The sharp A NIGHT OF HORRORS. 293 prickly7 bristles are either uncomfortable to them, or they expect there is danger. One night of horrors never to be forgotten was when I did not have my Indian lariat. Who of my readers ever had a rattlesnake attempt to make a nest in his hair? The story may hardly be worth telling, but I will relate it just as it occurred. We had camped on the St. Mary's River and had gone four miles off the road to find good graz ing for our animals. Supper was over, our bugler had sounded hisdast note, and we were preparing for bed when a man came in from a camp a mile off and reported that they7 had found a man on a small island, who was very sick and they wanted a doctor. Dr. Schlater, of the Mt. Sterling Mining Com pany, at once got ready and went Avith him. Dr. Schlater was one of the grand specimens of man hood. He worked with the sick man all night and at daylight came down and asked me to go up with him. While we were bathing him the com pany of Michigan packers, who had found the stranger, moved off, and left us alone with the sick man, aa71io was delirious and could give no account of himself. We found from papers in his pockets that his name was West Williams of Bloomington, Iowa, and he carried a card from the I. O. O. F. of that place. We made him as comfortable as possible 294 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. and went back to our camp and reported his con dition. We found the company all ready to movo out, only waiting for us. The man was too sick to travel and it would not do to let him remain there alone, and it was decided that Dr. S. and 1 should remain with him and try and find his friends or hire some person to take care of him, and then, by forced marches, we could follow on and catch the company. We raised a purse of one hundred dollars and with such medicines as we needed and other sup plies, also kept back a light spring- wagon, and brought the sick man to our camp. I suggested to the Doctor that he ride over to the road and put up some written notices, giving the man's name, etc. He wrote out several and posted them on the trees where they would attract attention from passers. While he was doing this, a man with an ox-team came along and proA7ed to be an old friend of the sick man right from the same locality7. His name was Van S. Israel. He at once came Avith the Doc tor and took charge of Williams, greatly to our relief. While the Doctor Avas upon the road he Avas called to prescribe for another sick man by the name of Mahan, from Missouri. Learning Avhere Ave Avere located, the Mahans moA7ed down to our camp. The sick man was accompanied by his brother, and they had a splendid outfit. We con- A HUGE RATTLER. 295 eluded to give the entire day to the sick men and ride across the small desert just ahead during the night. A tent was erected for Mahan, and he walked in and laid doAvn. An hour or so later I went to the tent door and looking in saw the man lying dead. I spoke to his brother, who went into the tent convulsed with grief. I had scarcely reached my tent before I heard a piercing scream and rushed back, and upon opening the tent flap was horrified to behold the largest rattlesnake I had ever seen, coiled on the opposite side of the dead body and the living brother crowding as far away as possible on the other side to be out of his reach. As soon as I appeared the snake uncoiled and slipped under the edge of the tent. I caught up a green cottonwood stick and ran around and he at once coiled for a fight. I let him strike the stick. After striking each time he would try to retreat, but a gentle tap with the stick would arouse his anger and he would coil and strike again. At first a full drop of the yellow fluid appeared upon the stick. This gradually diminished, and with it the courage of the reptile, which seemed to lose all fighting propensity. I then killed him. Just before sunset we were ready to leave our sad associates, and we rode doAvn to the riA7er to give our mules a drink. The St. Mary's is a deep stream running through a level stretch with no 296 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. banks. The mules had often been caA7ed into the deep Avater and learned to get down on their knees to drink. For fear of an accident I got off and al- loAAred my mule to kneel and drink. As he got upon his feet I swung into the saddle and started on. I had scarcely7 got firmly seated when, right under the mule, a rattler sang out. My double-barrel gun was hanging from my shoulder, muzzle down. As quick as a flash I slipped my7 arm through the strap, cocked the gun at the same time, and the mule shying, brought his snakeship in range, and just as he was in the act of striking, I shot him dead. The only good thing about the rattler is that he always gives the alarm before striking. It was about three o'clock in the morning when we got through the desert and reached a cluster of trees, and resolved to stop and take a little sleep, and give our mules the feed of grass we had tied behind our saddles. We found a fallen tree and tied our animals to the boughs and fed them. A small company of packers were there asleep with their heads toward the fallen tree. We passed them to near the butt of the tree, threw aside some rotten chunks, spread a blanket, and each rolled up in another, lay down to rest. My snake-lariat was with the wagon, but I was too tired to think much of it. The Doctor being up all the night before, was asleep in two minutes. I was dozing off, with rattlesnakes and all the horrors of the A. J. ANDERSON, Ph.D., First President of Whitman College. REV. JAMES F. EATON, D.D., Second President of Whitman College. ONLY A TOAD. 297 past day running through my mind, when I was suddenly aAvakened by something pulling and working in my long, bushy hair. Barbers were not plentiful on the plains, and, besides, the plainsmen wear long hair as a protection. I sup pose it was only a feAV minutes of suspense, and yet it seemed an hour, before I became Avide awake, and reached at once the conclusion that I had poked my head near the log where his snake- ship Avas sleeping, and the evening being cool, he Avas trying to secure warmer quarters. I knew it would not do to move my head. I quietly7 slipped my right arm from the blanket, and slowly moved my hand within six inches of my7 head. I felt the raking of a harder material, which seemed like a fang scraping the scalp. This made me almost frantic. Suddenly I grasped the offender by the head, jerking hair and all, and, jumping to my feet, yelled, so that every packer bounced to. his feet, and seized his gun, thinking we were attacked by7 Indians. This is a round-about way to tell a snake story, but all the facts had to be recited to reveal the real conditions. It was forty-five years ago, and the sensations of the time are viA7id to this clay; and it doesn't even matter that the offender was not a rattler, but only an honest, little, cold-footed tree-toad, trying to get warmed up. But he frightened me as badly as the biggest rattler on the St. Mary's 298 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. could, and I helped him to make a hop that beat the record of Mark Twain's jumping-frog in his best clays. But life on the plains Avas not a continued suc cession of discomforts. The dyspeptic could well afford to make such a journey to gain the appetite and the good digestion. The absence of annoy ing insect life during the night, and the pure, in- Adgorating air, makes sleep refreshing and health- giA'ing. For a month at a time we have lain down to sleep, looking up at the stars, Avithout the fear of catching cold, or feeling a drop of dew. There are long dreary7 reaches of plains to pass that are wearisome to the eye and the body, but the moun tain scenery is noAA7here more picturesquely beau tiful. At that time the sportsman could haA7e a sur feit in all kinds of game, by branching off from the lines, of travel and taking the chances of los ing his scalp. Herds of antelope were seen every day feeding in the valleys, while farther away there were buffalo by the hundred thousand. The great butchery of these noble animals had then but fairly begun. To-day, there still liA'e but three small herds. Our company did not call it sport to kill buffalo for amusement. It was not sport but butchery. A man could ride up by the side of his victim and kill him with a pistol. CHARGED BY A BUFFALO BULL. 299 It was among our rules to allow no team ani mal to be used in the chase. But I forgot myself once and violated the rule. We were resting that day in camp. In the distance I saw two hunters after a huge buffalo bull, coming toward our camp. I saw by the direction that one could ride around the spur of a high hill about a mile distant and intercept him. We had as a saddle horse of one team an old clay-bank, Avhich was one of the most solemn horses I have ever seen. His beauty was in his great strength and his long mane and tail. But he carried his head on a straight level* with his back and never was known to put on any7 airs. He stood picketed handy, and seizing a bridle and my gun I mounted without a saddle and urged the old horse into a lope. As I turned the spur of the hill, the bull came meeting me fifty yards away. He was a monster; his tongue protruded, and he was frothing at the mouth from his long run. He showed no signs of turning from his road because of my appearance. Just then, when not more than thirty yards aAvay, my old horse saAV him and turned so quickly as to nearly unseat me. He threw up his head until that great mane of his enveloped me; and he broke for the camp at a gait no one ever dreamed he pos sessed. I did no shooting, but I did the fastest rid ing I ever indulged in before or since. It is a 300 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. fact, that a mad buffalo, plunging toward you is only pleasant Avhen you can get out of his way. The slaughter and annihilation of the buffalo is the most atrocious act ever classed under the head of sport. A few years ago, Avhile traveling over the Great Northern Raihvay, I saw at dif ferent stations ricks of bones from a quarter to a third of a mile long, piled up as high as the tops of the cars, awaiting shipment. I asked one of the experienced and reliable raihvay officials of the traffic, and he informed me that "Not less than 26,000 car loads of buffalo bones had been shipped over the Great Northern Railroad to the bone factories; and not one in a thousand of the remains had ever been touched." The weight of a fall-sized buffalo's bones is about sixty pounds. The traffic is still enormous along these northern lines. If the Indian had any sentiment it would likely be called out as he Avan'ders over the plains and gathers up the dry bones of these well-nigh extinct wild herds, that fed and clothed his tribe through so many generations. I have seen beautiful horses, but never saw any half so handsome as the wild horses upon the plains. The tame horse, however Avell groomed, is despoiled of his grandeur. He compares with his wild brother as the plebeian compares with royalty. I saw a beautiful race betAveen two WILD HORSES. 301 Greasers who Avere chasing a herd of wild horses. They Avere running parallel Avith the road I was traveling, and I spurred up and ran by their side some four hundred yards distant, and had a chance to study7 them for many miles. I afterward saAV a handsome stallion that had just been caught. He was tied and in a corral, but if one approached he would jump at him and strike and kick as savagely as possible. His back showed saddle marks, which proved that he had not always been the wild savage he had then be come. The mountains and hills where the wild horses were then most numerousl Avere covered with wild oats, which gave the country the ap pearance of large cultivation. Among the interesting facts which the traveler on the great plains learns, and often to his discom fort, is the deception as to distance. He sees some thing of interest and resolves "it is but two miles away," but the chances are that it Avill prove to be eight or ten miles. The country7 is made up of great waves. Looking off you see the top of a wave, and when you get there a valley that y7ou did not see, stretches away for miles. We always tried to treat our Indian guests cour teously, but they were often voted a nuisance. While cooking our supper they would often form a circle, twenty or thirty of them sitting on the 302 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. ground, and they looked so longingly at the bread and ham and coffee, that it almost took one's appetite away. We could only afford to give the squaws what was left. To fill up such a crowd would have soon ended our stock of sup plies. One of the things that made an Indian grunt, and even laugh, was to see our cook baking pan cakes in a long-handled frying pan. To turn the cake over he tossed it in the air and caught it as it came down. A cook on the plains that could not do that was not up in his business. Except upon the mountains and rocky canyons, the roads were as good as a turnpike; but some of the climbs and descents were fearful, while an occasional canyon, miles long, looked wholly im passable without breaking the legs of half the animals and smashing the wagons. The old plainsmen had a way of setting tires upon a loose wheel that was novel. Our tires be came very loose from the long dry reaches. We took off the tire, tacked a slip of fresh hide entire ly around the rim, heated the tire, dropped it on the wheel and quickly chucked it into the water and had wheels as good as new. Our company was three nights and two days and nearly a half in crossing the widest desert. It was a beautiful firm road until we struck deep CROSSING A DESERT. 303 sand, Avhich extended out for eleven miles from Carson River into the desert. Before starting we emptied our rubber clothes sacks, filled them with water, hauled hay7, which we had cured, to feed our mules, and made the trip as pleasantly as if upon green sod. The lack of water on this Avide desert had left many7 thousand bones of dead ani mals bleaching upon its wastes. Many Avells had been dug in various places and we tested the water in them and found it intensely salt. The entire space is evidently the bed of a salt sea. In the long reaches where no trees of any kind groAv, the entire dependence of the early pioneer for fire Avas upon buffalo chips, the animal char coal of the plains. It makes a good fire and is in no way offensive. And if no iron horse had in vaded the plains, buffalo chips would be selling all along the route to-day at forty dollars per ton. One of the pleasant historical events in which our company naturally takes a pride is, that one night we camped upon a little mountain stream near where the city of Denver now stands; the whole land as wild as nature made it. Many years afterward one of the little band, Frank Denver, was elected Lieutenant-Governor of Col orado, and Gen. J. W. Denver was among the most prominent politicians of the coast, and the city of DenA-er was named in honor of them. I 304 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. have thus, as concisely as I could, sketched life as it was in a wagon journey across the plains forty- five and fifty years ago. It was a memorable ex perience, and none who took it will fail to have of it a A'ivid remembrance as long as life lasts. If its annoyances were many, its novelties and pleas ing remembrances were so numerous as to make it the notable journey7 of even the most adventurous life. APPENDIX. NARRATIVE OF THE WINTER TRIP ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF DR. MARCUS WHITMAN AND HON. A. LAWRENCE LOVEJOY, IN 1842, FUR NISHED BY REQUEST, FROM MR. LOVEJOY, THE SURVIVOR. Oregon City, Feb. 14, 1876. Dr. Atkinson — Dear Sir: In compliance with your request, I will endeavor to give y7ou some idea of the journey of the late Dr. Marcus Whitman from Oregon to Washington, in the winter of 1842 and '43. True, I was the Doctor's traveling com panion in that arduous and trying journey, but it would take volumes to describe the many thrilling scenes and dangerous hair-breadth escapes we passed through, traveling, as we did, almost the entire route through a hostile Indian country, and enduring much suffering from the intense cold and snow we had to encounter in passing oA7er the Rocky Mountains in midwinter. I crossed the 306 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. plains in company with Dr. White and others, and arrived at Waiilatpui the last of September, 1842. My party camped some two miles below Dr. Whit man's place. The day after our arrival Dr. Whit man called at our camp and asked me to accom pany him to his house, as he wished me to draAv up a memorial to Congress to prohibit the sale of ardent spirits in this country. The Doctor was alive to the interests of this coast, and manifested a very warm desire to have it properly represented at Washington; and after numerous conversa tions with the Doctor touching the future prosper ity of Oregon, he asked me one day in a very7 anx ious manner, if I thought it would be possible for him to cross the mountains at that time of the year. I told him I thought he could. He next asked: "Will you accompany me?" After a little reflec tion, I told him I would. His arrangements were rapidly made. Through the kindness of Mr. Mc- Kinly, then stationed at Fort Walla Walla, Mrs. Whitman was provided with suitable escorts to the Willamette Valley, where she was to remain with her missionary friends until the Doctor's re turn. We left Waiilatpui, October 3, 1842, trav eled rapidly, reached Fort Hall in eleven days, re mained two days to recruit and make a few pur chases. The Doctor engaged a guide and we left for Fort Uintah. We changed from a direct route LOVEJOY'S NARRATIVE. 307 to one more southern, through the Spanish coun try via Salt Lake, Taos and Santa Fe. On our way from Fort Hall to Fort Uintah, Ave had terribly- severe weather. The snows retarded our progress and blinded the trail so we lost much time. After arriving at Fort Uintah and making some pur chases for our trip, we took a new guide and started for Fort Uncompahgra, situated on the waters of Grand River, in the Spanish country. Here our stay was very short. We took a new guide and started for Taos. After being out some four or five days we encoun tered a terrible snow storm, Avhich forced us to seek shelter in a deep ravine, Avhere we remained snowed in for four days, at which time the storm had somewhat abated, and we attempted to make our way out upon the high lands, but the snow was so deep and the winds so piercing and cold we were compelled to return to camp and Avait a feAV days for a change of weather. Our next effort to reach the high lands was more successful; but after spending several days Avan- dering around in the snow without making much headAvay, our guide tblcl us that the deep snow had so changed the face of the country that he was completely lost and could take us no farther. This Avas a terrible blow to the Doctor, but he was determined not to give it up without another ef- 308 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. fort. We at once agreed that the Doctor should take the guide and return to Fort Uncompahgra and get a new guide, and I remain in camp with the animals until he could return; which he did in seven day7s with our new guide, and we were now on our route again. Nothing- of much im portance occurred but hard and show traveling through deep snow until we reached Grand River, which was frozen on either side about one-third across. Although so intensely cold, the current was so very rapid, about one-third of the river in the center was not frozen. Our guide thought it would be dangerous to attempt to cross the river in its present condition, but the Doctor, nothing daunted, was the first to take the water. He mounted his horse and the guide and myself shoved the Doctor and his horse off the ice into the foaming stream. Away he went completely under water, horse and all, but directly came up, and after buffeting the rapid, foaming current he reached the ice on the opposite shore a long way down the stream. He leaped from his horse upon the ice and soon had his noble animal byT his side. The guide and myself forced in the pack animals and followed the Doctor's example, and were soon on the opposite shore drying our frozen clothes by a comfortable fire. We reached Taos in about thirty days, suffering greatly from cold and LOVEJOY'S NARRATIVE. 309 scarcity of provisions. We were compelled to use mule meat, dogs and such other animals as came in our reach. We remained at Taos a few days only, and started for Bent's and Savory's Fort, on the headAvaters of the Arkansas River. When we had been out some fifteen or twenty days, Ave met George Bent, a brother of Gov. Bent, on his Avay to Taos. He told us that a party7 of mountain men would leave Bent's Fort in a feAv days for St. Louis, but said we would not reach the fort with our pack animals in time to join the party. The Doctor being very anxious to join the party so he could push on as rapidly as possible to Washing ton, concluded to leave myself and guide with the animals, and he himself, taking the best animal, with some bedding and a small allowance of pro vision, started alone, hoping by7 rapid travel to reach the fort in time to join the St. Louis part}', but to do so he would have to traA'el on the Sab bath, something we had not clone before. M,yself and guide traveled on slowly and reached the fort in four days, but imagine our astonishment, when on making inquiry about the Doctor, we were told that he had not arrived nor had he been heard of. I learned that the party for St. Louis Avas camped at the Big Cottonwood, forty miles from the fort, and at my request, Mr. Savery sent an ex press telling the party not to proceed any further 310 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. until we learned something of Dr. Whitman's whereabouts, as he wished to accompany them to St. Louis. Being furnished by the gentlemen of the fort with a suitable guide, I started in search of the Doctor, and traveled up the river about one hundred miles. I learned from the Indians that a man had been there, who was lost, and was try ing to find Bent's Fort. They7 said they had di rected him to go down the river, and hoAv to find the fort. I knew from their description it was the Doctor. I returned to the fort as rapidly as possi ble, but the Doctor had not arrived. We had all become very anxious about him. ' Late in the afternoon he came in very much fatigued and desponding; said that he knew that God had bewildered him to punish him for travel ing on the Sabbath. During the whole trip he was very regular in his morning and evening devotions, and that was the only time I ever knew him to travel on the Sabbath. The Doctor remained all night at the fort, start ing early on the following morning to join the St. Louis party. Here we parted. The Doctor pro ceeded to Washington. I remained at Bent's Fort until Spring, and joined the Doctor the following July, near Fort Laramie, on his way to Oregon, in company with a train of emigrants. He often ex pressed himself to me about the remainder of his LOVEJOY'S NARRATIVE. 311 journey, and the manner in Avhich he was received at Washington, and by the Board for Foreign Mis sions at Boston. He had several interviews with President Tyler, Secretary Webster, and a good many members of Congress — Congress being in session at that time. He urged the immediate ter mination of the treaty with Great Britain relative to this country, and begged them to extend the laws of the United States over Oregon, and asked for liberal inducements to emigrants to come to this coast. He was very cordially and kindly re ceived by the President and members of Congress, and, without doubt, the Doctor's interviews re sulted greatly to the benefit of Oregon and to this coast. But his reception at the Board for For eign Missions was not so cordial. The Board was inclined to censure him for leaving his post. The Doctor came to the frontier settlement, urging the citizens to emigrate to the Pacific. He left Inde pendence, Mo., in the month of May, 1843, with an emigrant train of about one thousand souls for Oregon. With his energy and knowledge of the country, he rendered them great assistance in fording the many dangerous and rapid streams they had to cross, and in finding a wagon road through many of the narrow rugged passes of the mountains. He arrived at Waiilatpui about one y7ear from the time he left, to find his home sadly 312 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. dilapidated, his flouring mill burned. The Indians were very hostile to the Doctor for leaving them, and without doubt, owing to his absence, the seeds of assassination were sown by those haughty7 Cay use Indians which resulted in his and Mrs. Whit man's death, with many others, although it did not take place until four years later. I remain with great respect, A. LAWRENCE LOVEJOY. THE NEZ PERCES CHIEFS. 313 HEE-OH-KS-TE-KIN.— The Rabbit's Skin Leggins. (Drawn by George Catlin.) The only one of five Nez Perces Chiefs (some say there were only four) who visited St. Louis in 1832, that lived to return to his people to tell the story. 314 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. HCO-A-HCO-A-HCOTES-MIN— No Horns on His Head. This one died on his return journey near the mouth of Yellowstone River. This is what Catlin says himself: "These two men when I painted them, were in beautiful Sioux dresses, which had been presented to them in a talk with the Sioux, who treated them very kindly, while passing through the Sioux country. These two men were part of a delegation that came across the Rocky Mountains to St. Louis, a few years since, to inquire for the Iruth of a representation which they said some white man had made among them, "That our religion was better than theirs, and that they would be all lost if they did not embrace it." Two old and venerable men of this party died in St. Louis, and I traveled two thousand miles, companions with these two fel lows, toward their own country, and became much pleased with their manners and dispositions. When I first heard the report of the object of this extraordinary mission across the mountains, I could scarcely believe it; but, on conversing with Gen. Clark, on a future occasion, I was fully convinced of the fact." See Catlin's Eight Years, and Smithsonian Report for 1885, 2nd part. DR. WHITMAN'S LETTER. TO THE HON. JAMES M. PORTER, SECRETARY OF WAR, WITH A BILL TO BE LAID BEFORE CONGRESS, FOR ORGANIZATION OF OREGON. The Rev. Myron Eells obtained from the original files of the office of the Secretary of War two val uable papers. They bear this endorsement: "Marcus Whitman inclosing synopsis of a bill, with his views in reference to importance of the Oregon Territory, War. 382 — rec. June 22, 1844. To the Hon. James M. Porter, Secretary of War : Sir — In compliance with the request you did me the honor to make last Winter, while in Wash ington, I herewith transmit to you the synopsis of a bill which, if it could be adopted, would, ac cording to my experience and observation, prove highly conducive to the best interests of the United States, generally, to Oregon, where I have resided for more than seven years as a missionary, and to the Indian tribes that inhabit the immediate coun try. The Government will now doubtless for the 316 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. first time be apprised through you, or by7 means of this communication, of the immense immigra tion of families to Oregon which has taken place this year. I have, since our interview, been instru mental in piloting across the route described in the accompanying bill, and which is the only eligible wagon road, no less than three hundred families, consisting of one thousand persons of both sexes, with their wagons, amounting to one hundred and twenty, six hundred and ninety-four oxen, and seven hundred and seventy-three loose cattle. The emigrants are from different States, but principally from Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois and New York. The majority of them are farmers, lured by the prospect of bounty in lands, by the reported fertility of the soil, and by the desire to be first among those who are planting our insti tutions on the Pacific Coast. Among them are ar tisans of every trade, comprising, with farmers, the very best material for a new colony. As pio neers, these people have undergone incredible hardships, and having now safely passed the Blue Mountain Range with their wagons and effects, have established a durable road from Missouri to Oregon, which will serve to mark permanently the route for larger numbers, each succeeding year, while they have practically demonstrated that wagons drawn by horses or oxen can cross the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River, contrary DR. WHITMAN'S LETTER. 317 to all the sinister assertions of all those Avho pre tended it to be impossible. In their slow progress, these persons have en countered, as in all former instances, and as all succeeding emigrants must, if this or some similar bill be not passed by Congress, the continual fear of Indian aggression, the actual loss through them of horses, cattle and other property, and the great labor of transporting an adequate amount of pro visions for so long a journey. The bill herewith proposed would, in a great measure, lessen these inconveniences by7 the establishment of posts, which, while having the possessed power to keej) the Indians in check, thus doing away with the necessity of military vigilance on the part of the traveler by day and night, would be able to fur nish them in transit with fresh supplies of pro visions, diminishing the original burdens of the emigrants, and finding thus a ready and profitable market for their produce — a market that would, in my opinion, more than suffice to defray all the current expenses of such post. The present party- is supposed to have expended no less than $2,000 at Laramie's and Bridger's Forts, and as much more at Fort Hall and Fort Boise, two of the Hudson. Bay Company's stations. These are at present the only stopping places in a journey of 2,200 miles, and the only place Avhere additional supplies can be obtained, even at the enormous 318 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. rate of charge, called mountain prices, i. e., $50 the hundred for flour, and $50 the hundred for coffee; the same for sugar, powder, etc. Many cases of sickness and some deaths took place among those who accomplished the journey this season, owing, in a great measure, to the unin terrupted use of meat, salt and fresh, with flour, which constitute the chief articles of food they are able to convey on their wagons, and this could be obviated by the vegetable productions which the posts in contemplation could very profitably af ford them. Those Avho rely on hunting as an auxil iary support, are at present unable to have their arms repaired when out of order; horses and oxen become tender-footed and require to be shod on this long journey, sometimes repeatedly, and the wagons repaired in a variety of ways. I mention these as valuable incidents to the proposed meas ure, as it will also be found to tend in many other incidental wa,ys to benefit the migratory popula tion of the United States choosing to take this di rection, and on these accounts, as well as for the immediate use of the posts themselves, they ought to be provided with the necessary shops and me chanics, which would at the same time exhibit the several branches of civilized art to the Indians. The outlay in the first instance would be but trifling. Forts like those of the Hudson Bay Com pany's surrounded by walls enclosing all the DR. WHITMAN'S LETTER. 319 buildings, and constructed almost entirely of adobe, or sun-dried bricks, Avith stone foundations only, can be easily and cheaply erected. There are very eligible places for as many of these as the Government Avill find necessary, at suitable distances, not further than one or two hundred miles apart, at the main crossing of the principal streams that now form impediments to the journey, and consequently well supplied with water, having alluvial bottom lands of a rich quality, and generally well wooded. If I might be allowed to suggest, the best sites for said posts, my personal knowledge and observation enable me to recommend first, the main crossing of the Kan sas River, where a ferry would be very convenient to the traveler, and profitable to the station having it in charge; next, and about eighty miles distant, the crossing of the Blue River, where in times of unusual freshet, a ferry would be in like manner useful; next and distant from one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles from the last mentioned, the Little Blue, or Republican Fork of the Kansas; next, and from sixty to one hundred miles distant from the last mentioned, the point of intersection of the Platte River; next, and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles distant from the last mentioned, crossing of the South Fork of the Platte River; next, and about one hundred and eighty or two hundred miles distant from the last mentioned, 320 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. Horseshoe Creek, which is about forty miles west of Laramie's Fork in the Black Hills. Here is a fine creek for mills and irrigation, good land for culti vation, fine pasturage, timber and stone for build ing. Other locations may be had along the Platte and Sweetwater, on the Green River, or Black's Forks of the Bear River, near the great Soda Springs, near Fort Hall, and at suitable places down to the Columbia. These localities are all of the best description, so situated as to hold a ready intercourse with the Indians in their passage to and from the ordinary buffalo hunting grounds, and in themselves so well situated in all other re spects as to be desirable to private enterprise if the usual advantage of trade existed. Any of the farms above indicated would be deemed extremely valuable in the States. The Government cannot long overlook the im portance of superintending the savages that en danger this line of travel, and that are not yet in treaty with it. Some of these are already well known to be led by desperate white men and mon grels, who form bandits in the most difficult passes, and are at all times ready to cut off some lagging emigrant in the rear of the party, or some adventurous one who may proceed a few miles in advance, or at night to make a descent upon the sleeping camp and carry aAvay or kill horses and cattle. This is the case even now in the com- DR. WHITMAN'S LETTER. 321 mencement of our western immigration, and when it conies to be more generally known that large quantities of valuable property and considerable sums of money are yearly carried OA7er this deso late region, it is feared that an organized banditti will be instituted. The posts in contemplation would effectually counteract this. For the pur pose they need not, or ought not, to be military establishments. The trading posts in this coun try have never been of such a character, and yet with very few men in them, have for years kept the surrounding Indians in the most pacific dis position, so that the traveler feels secure from mo lestation upon approaching Fort Laramie, Bridg ets Fort, Fort Hall, etc., etc. The same can be ob tained without any7 considerable expenditure by the Government, while by investing the officers in charge with competent authority, all evil-disposed white men, refugees from justice, or discharged vagabonds from trading posts might be easily re moved from among the Indians and sent to the appropriate States for trial. The Hudson Bay7 Company's system of reAvards among the savages would soon enable the posts to root out these des peradoes. A direct and friendly intercourse with all the tribes, even to the Pacific, might be thus maintained; the Government would become more intimately acquainted with them, and they with the Government, and instead of sending to the 322 HOAV MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. State courts a manifestly guilty Indian to be ar raigned before a distant tribunal and acquitted for the want of testimony, by the technicalities of law yers and of the law unknoAvn to them, and sent back into the wilderness loaded with presents as an inducement to further crime, the post should be enabled to execute summary justice, as if the criminal had been already condemned by7 his tribe, because the tribe will be sure to deliver up none but the party whom they know to be guilty. They will in that way receh7e the trial of their peers, and secure within themselves to all intents and purposes, if not technically the trial by jury7, y7et the spirit of that trial. There are many powers which ought to reside in some person on this ex tended route for the convenience and eA7en neces sity of the public. In this the emigrant and the people of Oregon are no more interested than the resident inhabi tants of the States. At present no person is author ized to administer an oath, or legally attest a fact, from the western line of Missouri to the Pacific. The immigrant cannot dispose of his property at home, although an opportunity7 ever so advan tageous to him should occur after he passes the western border of Missouri. No one can here make a legal demand and protest of a promissory note or bill of exchange. No one can secure the valuable testimony of a mountaineer, or an immi- DR. WHITMAN'S LETTER. 323 grating witness after he has entered this, at pres ent, lawless country. Causes do exist-and will con tinually arise, in which the jirivate rights of citi zens are, and will be, seriously prejudiced by such an utter absence of legal authority. A contraband trade from Mexico, the introduction from that country of liquors to be sold among the Indians west of the Kansas River, is already carried on with the mountain trappers, and very soon the teas, silks, nankeens, spices, camphor and opium of the East Indies will find their way, duty free, through Oregon, across the mountains and into the States, unless Custom House officers along this line find an interest in intercepting them. Your familiarity Avith the Government policy, duties and interest renders it unnecessary for me to more than hint at the several objects intended by the enclosed bill, and any enlargement upon the topics here suggested as inducements to its adoption would be quite superfluous, if not im pertinent. The very existence of such a system as the one above recommended suggests the util ity of postoffices and mail arrangements, which it is the wish of all who now live in Oregon to have granted them; and I need only add that con tracts for this purpose will be readily taken at reasonable rates for transporting the mail across from Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia in forty days, with fresh horses at each of the con- 324 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. templated posts. The ruling policy proposed re gards the Indians as the police of the country, who are to be relied upon to keep the peace, not only for themselves, but to repel lawless white men and prevent banditti, under the solitary guidance of the superintendents of the several postsv aided by a well directed system to induce the punishment of crime. It will only be after the failure of these means to procure the delivery7 or punishment of violent, lawless and savage acts of aggression, that a band or tribe should be regarded as conspirators against the peace, or punished accordingly by force of arms. Hoping that these suggestions may meet your approbation, and conduce to the future interest of our growing country, I have the honor to be, Hon orable Sir, Your obedient servant, MARCUS WHITMAN. PROPOSED BILL. 325 COPY OF PROPOSED BILL PREPARED BY DR. MARCUS WHITMAN IN 1843 AND SENT TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. A bill to promote safe intercourse with the Ter ritory of Oregon, to suppress violent acts of aggres sion on the part of certain Indian tribes west of the Indian Territory, Neocho, better protect the revenue, for the transportation of the mail and for other purposes. , SYNOPSIS OF THE ACT. Section 1. — To be enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America, in Congress assembled, that from and after the passage of this act, there shall be estab lished at suitable distances, and in convenient and proper places, to be selected by the President, a chain of agricultural posts or farming stations, ex tending at intervals from the present most usual crossing, of the Kansas River, west of the western boundary of the State of Missouri, thence ascend ing the Platte River on the southern border, thence through the valley of the Sweetwater River to Fort Hall, and thence to settlements of the Willamette in the Territory7 of Oregon. Which said posts will have for their object to set examples of civilized in- 326 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. dustry to the several Indian tribes, to keep them in proper subjection to the laws of the United States, to suppress violent and laAAdess acts along the said line of the frontier, to facilitate the passage of troops and munitions of war into and out of the said Territory of Oregon, and the transportation of the mail as hereinafter provided. Section 2. — And be it further enacted, that there shall reside at each of said posts, one superintend ent having charge thereof, with full power to carry7 into effect the provisions of this act, subject always to such instructions as the President may impose; one deputy superintendent to act in like manner in case of death, removal or absence of the superin tendent, and such artificers and laborers, not ex ceeding twenty in number, as the said superintend ent may deem necessary7 for the conduct and safety of said posts, all of whom shall be subject to ap pointment and liable to removal. Section 3. — And be it further enacted, that it shall be the duty of the President to cause to be erected, at each of the said posts, buildings suit able for the purpose herein contemplated, to-wit, one main dwelling house, one storehouse, one blacksmith's and one gunsmith's shop, one car penter shop, with such and so many other build ings, for storing the products and supplies of said posts as he from time to time may deem expedi ent. To supply the same with all necessary me- PROPOSED BILL. 327 chanical and agricultural implements, to perform the labor incident thereto, and with all other arti cles he may judge requisite and proper for the safety, comfort and defense thereof. To cause said posts in his discretion to be visited by detachments of troops stationed on the western frontier, to suppress through said posts the sale of munitions of war to the Indian tribes in case of hostilities, and annually to lay before Congress, at its general session, full returns, verified by the oaths of the several superintendents, of the several acts by them performed and of the condition of said posts, with the income and expenditures growing out of the same respectively. Section 4. — And be it further enacted, that the said superintendents shall be appointed by7 the President by and with the advice and consent of the Senate for the term of four years, with a sal ary7 of two hundred dollars payable out of any moneyrs in the treasury not otherwise appropri ated; that they shall respectively take an oath before the District Judge of the United States for the Western District of Missouri, faithfully to dis charge the duties imposed on them in and by the provisions of this act, and give a bond to the President of the United States and to his succes sors in office and assigns, and Avith sufficient se curity to be approved by the said judge in at least the penalty of twen-ty-fiwe thousand dollars, to in- 328 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. demnifv the President or his successors or assigns for any unlawful acts by them performed, or in juries committed by virtue of their offices, which said bonds may at any time be assigned for prose cution against the said respective superintendents and their sureties upon application to the said judge at the instance of the United States Dis trict Attorney or of any private party aggrieved. Section 5. — And be it further enacted, that it shall be the duty of said superintendents to cause the soil adjacent to said posts, in extent not ex ceeding 640 acres, to be cultivated in a farmer-like manner and to produce such articles of culture as in their judgment shall be deemed the most profit able and available for the maintenance of said posts, for the supply of troops and other Govern ment agents which may from time to time re sort thereto, and to render the products aforesaid adequate to defraying all the expenses of labor in and about said posts, and the salary of the said deputy superintendent, without resort to the Treasury of the United States, remitting to the Secretary of the Treasury yearly a sworn state ment of the same, Avith the surplus moneys, if any there shall be. Section 6. — Ahd be it further enacted, that the said several superintendents of posts shall, ex- officia, be Superintendents of Indian Affairs Avest of the Indian Territory7, Neocho, subordinate to PROPOSED BILL. 329 and under the full control of the Commissioner- General of Indian affairs at Washington. That they shall by virtue of their offices, be conservators of the peace, Avith full powers to the extent here inafter prescribed, in all cases of crimes and mis demeanors, whether committed by citizens of the United States or by Indians within the frontier line aforesaid. That they shall have power to administer oaths, to be valid in the several courts of the United States, to perpetuate testimony to be used in said courts, to take acknowledgments of deeds and other specialties in writing, to take pro bate of wills and the testaments executed upon the said frontier, of which the testators shall have died in transit between the State of Missouri and the Territory of Oregon, and to do and certify all notarial acts, and to perform the ceremony of marriage, with as legal effect as if the said several acts above enumerated had been performed by the magistrates of any of the States having power to perform the service. That they7 shall have poAver to arrest and remove from the line aforesaid all disorderly white persons, and all persons exciting the Indians to hostilities, and to surrender up all fugitives from justice upon the requisition of the Governor of any of the States; that they shall have power to demand of the several tribes within the said frontier line, the surrender of any7 Indian or Indians committing acts in contradiction of the 330 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. laws of the United States, and in case of such sur render, to inflict punishment thereon according to the tenor and effect of said laws, without further trial, presuming such offending Indian or Indians to have received the trial and condemnation of the tribe to which, he or they may belong; to intercept and seize all articles of contraband trade, whether introduced into their jurisdiction in violation of the acts imposing duties on imports, or of the acts to regulate trade and intercourse with the several Indian tribes, to transmit the same to the Marshal of the Western District of Missouri, together with the proofs necessary7 for the confiscation thereof, and in every such case the Superintendent shall be entitled to receive one-half the sale value of the said confiscated articles, and the other half be disposed of as in like cases arising under the existing revenue laws. Section 7. — And be it further enacted, that the several Superintendents shall have and keep at their several Posts, seals of office for the legal authentication of their public acts herein enumer ated, and that the said seals shall have as a deA7ice the spread-eagle, with the words, "U. S. Superin- tendency of the Frontier," engraved thereon. Section 8. — And be it further enacted, that the said Superintendents shall be entitled, in addition to the salary hereinbefore granted, the following perquisites and fees of office, to-wit: For the ac- PROPOSED BILL. 331 knowledgment of all deeds and specialties, the sum of one dollar; for the administration of all oaths, twenty-five cents; for the authentication .of all copies of written instruments, one dollar; for the perpetuation of all testimony7 to be used in the United States courts, by the folio, fifty cents; for the probate of all wills and testaments, by the folio, fifty cents; for all other writing clone, by the folio, fifty cents; for solemnizing mar riages, two dollars, including the certificate to be given to the parties ; for the surrender of fugitives from justice, in addition to the necessary costs and expenses of arrest and detention, which shall be verified to the demanding Governor by the affi davit of the Superintendent, ten dollars. Section 9. — And be it further enacted, that the said Superintendents shall, by virtue of their offices, be postmasters at the several stations for which they were appointed, and as such, shall be required to facilitate the transportation of mail to and from the Territory of Oregon and the near est postoffice within the State of Missouri, sub ject to all the regulations of the Postoffice Depart ment, and with all the immunities and privileges of the postmasters in the several States, except that no additional compensation shall be allowed for such services; and it is hereby made the duty of the Postmaster General to cause proposals to be issued for the transportation of the mail along 332 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. the line of said Posts to and from said Territory within six months after the passage of this Act. Section 10. — And be it further enacted, that the sum of thousand dollars be, and the same, is hereby appropriated out of any moneys in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, for the pur pose of carrying into effect the several provisions of this act. DR. WHITMAN'S SUGGESTIONS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, AND TO THE COMMISSIONERS ON INDIAN AFFAIRS AND OREGON, IN THE U. S. SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, DATED OCTOBER 16, 1847. Perhaps the last work or writing of a public character done by Dr. Whitman, bears the date of Waiilatpui, October 16th, 1847. It was only one month before the massacre, and addressed as follows: To the Honorable the Secretary of War, to the Committees on Indian Affairs and Oregon, in the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States, the following suggestions are respectfully submitted : 1st. That all Stations of the United States for troops be kept upon the borders of some State or Territory, when designed for the protection and regulation of Indian territory. SUGGESTIONS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 333 2nd. That a line of Posts be established along the traveled route to Oregon, at a distance, so far as practicable, of not more than 50 miles. That these Posts be located so as to afford the best ' opportunity for agriculture and grazing, to facili tate the production of provisions, and the care of horses and cattle, for the use and support of said Posts, and to furnish supplies to all passers through Indian territory, especially to mail-car riers and troops. These Posts should be placed wherever a bridge or ferry would be required to facilitate the trans port of the mail, and travel of troops or immi grants through the country. In all fertile places, these Posts would support themselves,, arid give facilities for the several ob jects just named in transit. The other Posts, sit uated where the soil would not admit of cultiva tion, would still be useful, as they would afford the means of taking care of horses, and other facilities of transporting the mails. These Posts could be supplied with provisions from others in the vicinity. A few large Posts in the more fertile regions could supply those more in the mountains. On the other hand, military Posts can only be well supplied when near the settlements. In this way all transports for the supply of interior mil itary Posts would be superseded. 334 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. The number of men at these Posts might vary from five to twenty-five. In the interior the buildings may be built with adobes, that is, large, unburnt bricks; and in form and size should much resemble the common Indian Trading Posts, with outer walls and bas tions. They would thus afford the same protection in any part of the territory as the common Trading Posts. If provided with a small amount of goods, such goods could be bartered with the Indians for nec essary supplies, as well as, on proper occasions, given to chiefs as a reward for punishing those who disturb or offend against the peace of the territory. By these means the Indians would become the protectors of those Stations. At the same time by being under one General Superintendent, subject to the inspection of the Government, the Indians may be concentrated under one general influence. By such a superintendence the Indians would be prevented from fleeing from one place to an other to secrete themselves from justice. By this simple arrangement all the need of troops in the interior would be obviated, unless in some in stance when the Indians fail to co-operate with SUGGESTIONS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 335 the Superintendent of the Post or Posts, for the promotion of peace. When troops shall be called for, to visit the interior, the farming Posts will be able to furnish them with supplies in passing* so as to make their movements speedy and efficient. A code of laws for the Indian territory might constitute as civil magistrates the first, or second, in command of these Posts. The same arrangement would be equally well adapted for the respective routes to California and New Mexico. Many reasons may be urged for the establish ment of these Posts, among which are the follow ing: 1st. By means of such Posts, all acts of the Indians would be under a full and complete in spection. All cases of murder, theft, or other out rage would be brought to light and the proper punishment inflicted. 2nd. In most cases this may be done by giving the Chiefs a small fee that they may either pun ish the offenders themselves, or deliver them up to the commander of the Post. In such cases it should be held that their peers have adjudged them guilty before punishment is inflicted. 3rd. By means of these Posts it will become safe and easy for the smallest number to pass and repass from Oregon to the States; and with a 336 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. civil magistrate at each Station, all idle wander ing white men without passports can be sent out of the territory. 4th. In this way all banditti for robbing the mails or travelers would be prevented, as well as all vagabonds removed from among the In dians. 5th. Immigrants now lose horses and other stock by the Indians, commencing from the bor der of the States to the Willamette. It is much to the praise of our countrymen that they bear so long with the Indians when our Government has done so little to enable them to pass in safety. For one man to lose five or six horses is not a rare occurrence, which loss is felt heavily, when most of the family are compelled to walk, to favor a reduced and failing team. 6th. The Indians along the line take courage from the forbearance of the immigrants. The timid Indians on the Columbia have this year in open day attacked several parties of wagons, num bering from two to seven, and robbed them, being armed with guns, bows and arrows, knives and axes. Mr. Glenday from St. Charles, Mo., the bearer of this communication to the States, with Mr. Bear, his companion, rescued seven wagons from being plundered, and the people from gross insults, rescuing one woman, when the Indians were in the act of taking all the clothes from her SUGGESTIONS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 337 person. The men were mostly stripped of their shirts and pantaloons at the time. 7th. The occasional supplies to passing immi grants, as well as the aid which may be afforded to the sick and needy, are not the least of the im portant results to follow from these establish ments. A profitable exchange to the Posts and immi grants, as also to others journeying through the country, can be made by exchanging worn-out horses and cattle for fresh ones. 8th. It scarcely need be mentioned what ad vantage the Government will derive by a similar exchange for the transport of the mail, as also for the use of troops passing through. 9th. To suppress the use of ardent spirits among the Indians it will be requisite to regard the giving or furnishing of it in any manner as a breach of the laws and peace of the territory. All Superintendents of Posts, traders, and re sponsible persons, should be charged on oath, that they will not sell, give or furnish in any manner, ardent spirits to the Indians. 10th. Traders should be regarded by reason of the license they have to trade in the territory, as receiving a privilege, and therefore should be required to give and maintain good credentials of character. For this reason they may7 be re quired to send in the testimony of all their clerks 338 HOW MARCUS WHITMAN SAVED OREGON. and assistants of all ranks, to show under the solemnity of an oath, that the laws in this re spect have not been violated or evaded. If at any time it became apparent to the Superintend ent of any Post that the laws have been violated, he might be required to make full inquiry of all in any way connected with or assisting in the trade, to ascertain whether the laws were broken or their breach connived at. This will avail for the regular licensed trader. 11th. For illicit traders and smugglers it will suffice to instruct Commanders of Posts to offer a reward to the Indians for the safe delivery of any and all such persons as bring liquors among them, together with the liquors thus brought. It is only on the borders of the respective States and Territories that any interruption will be found in the operation of these principles. 12th. Here also a modification of the same prin ciple enacted by the several States and Territo ries might produce equally happy results. 13th. The mail may, with a change of horses every fifty miles, be carried at the rate of one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles in twenty- four hours. 14th. The leading reason in favor of adopting the aforesaid regulations would be, that by this means the Indians would become our faithful allies. In fact, they will be the best possible police SUGGESTIONS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 339 for such a territory. This police can safely be relied upon when under a good supervision. Troops will only be required to correct their faults in cases of extreme misconduct. 15th. In closing, I would remark that I have conversed with many of the principal fur-traders of the American and Hudson Bay Companies, all of whom agree that the several regulations sug gested in this communication will accomplish the object proposed, were suitable men appointed for its management and execution. Respectfully yours, MARCUS WHITMAN. »Waiilatpui, Oct. 16th, 1847. HiU;