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YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON BA 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION -HUNTING & FISHING

GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

THE HIGHLANDS OF INDIA.

1 Ghinkara or ravine-deer (Gazelle).
2 Cheetul or spotted deer (Fallow Deer).
3 Antelope (Black Buck).

THE
HIGHLANDS op INDIA
VOL. II.,
BEING A CHRONICLE OF
FIELD SPORTS AND TRAVEL
IN INDIA,
WITH
NUMEROUS FULL-PAGE
AND TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS, DIAGRAMS, &c

BY
Major- General D. J. F. NEW ALL, R.A.
(BENGAL RETIRED),
Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society,
Member of the Royal United Service Institution, &c., &c.

LONDON;
PUBLISHED BY HARRISON AND SONS, 59 PALL MALL,
PUBLISHERS TO THE QUEEN AND H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES.
ISLE OF WIGHT:
BRANNON AND CO., COUNTY PRESS, NEWPORT AND RYDE.
1887.

TO ALL RUGByEANS,
Past and Present,
THIS VOLUME OF
FIELD SPORTS AND TRAVEL IN INDIA"
IS DEDICATED
BY AN OLD RUGBJEAN.

iv. Preface.
pardoned the free use of the personal pronoun through
out the work, as it seems impossible to be otherwise
than egotistic whilst narrating personal adventures.
It may be as well here to state that these are all abso
lutely true and unvarnished tales of woodcraft and sport,
chiefly in that noble range of mountains, the "Himalayas,"
which — to quote his own former words — "comprise
"elements of the sublime and beautiful not to be sur
passed on earth!"
He has called Section I. of the present volume "A Sum
mer's Holiday in the Vale of Cashmere." It was mostly
written in youth, and has been in "private circulation."
The Illustrations in the text are mostly from journals
of shooting trips made on the spot: often on the wayside,
or on boats or gharries, or even from horseback; they
have but little claim to "artistic merit." The full-page
Illustrations are slightly more elaborately considered.
The Historical Sketch of Cashmere, introduced at page
133, will be found more fully given than in the corres
ponding section of Vol. I of the "Highlands of India."
It is chiefly valuable as having been compiled from
native MSS., and may be regarded as authentic history
as far as it goes.
It may be added that the contents of this volume are
arranged in the same consecutive order of sections as in
Vol. L, "Highlands of India."
D. J. F. N.

Beldomie Tower,
Ryde, Isle of Wight,
1st May, 1887.

Preface. v.

NOTE. — The Author is indebted — and begs here to
return his sincere thanks — to the following gentlemen,
who have kindly aided him with contributions.
General James Abbott, C.B., for kindly allowing access to liis
valuable notes and " Ballads and Legends of the Punjaub,"
(Section II.);
Colonel F. R. DeBude, R.A., "Note on Ooryal Shooting,"
page 193 ;
Colonel E. A. Hardy, late 21st Hussars, " Notes on the Indian
Lion and Cheetah," page 446;
Major-General George Maister, R.A., " Note on Hawking in
India," page 215 ;
Captain J. T. Newall, late Asst. G.G.'s Agent Rajpootana
States, "A Trip to the Concan by Raighur" (page 394),
and "Note on Sport in Rajpootana" (page 425), and
several illustrations in Section XV.;
Major-General Sir Campbell C. Ross, K.C.B., "Notes on
Sport in Kumaon" (page 301), and Illustrations XVIII.
and XIX.;
Lieut.-General H. A. Sarel, C.B. (the late), "Note on Rhinos-
ceros Shooting in Assam," page 328. He is the "S." alluded
to as the author's fellow traveller in Section I., "Cashmere;"
Colonel Edmund Smyth, B.S.C., for access to journals "Gurh-
wal and Thibet," page 284*
The above list contains the names of several old Rug-
bseans: the author, therefore — himself an old Rugbsean
of Arnold's time — -has ventured to inscribe the following
little chronicle of Field Sports and Travel in India to
Rugbteans generally, amongst other old comrades of Camp
and Field.
* To the above must be added the journals and sketches of the author's
lamented brother, the late Adam 6. Newall, of the Bombay Artillery, in
whose company occurred many of the adventures narrated in Section I.,
"Cashmere." Several of the illustrations also in the same section are
by the same accomplished young soldier and sportsman, who, alas ! died
in the prime of life and manhood, to the author's inexpressible sorrow
and regret. He, also, was a Rugbsean.

(vi.)

CONTENTS.

PAGE
Section I. ... ... ... ¦•• 1-166
CASHMERE— Chapter 1.— Introductory; Start for
Cashmere,; Ride across Country; Lahore; Goojeranwalla;
Goojerat; The "Chibhal"; Bhimbur; The Aditak
Ranges, and the Valley of the Tovi ; Mahaseer Fishing ;
Rajaorie and the Rutton Pir ; Cascades on the Poonch
River; Gorge of Poshiana; Across the Pir Pinjal; High-
hill Sport ; Game and Gastronomies ; Lall Golaum, the
Man-Eater.Chapter 2. — Descent from the Pir Pinjal; Vernal As
pect of the Valley of Cashmere ; Shupeyon ; Islamabad ;
Martund; "Cuckoo-Cloud-Land"; Changos; Naboog;
Across the Pyhil-Kynjie Pass ; High-hill Shooting in
Wurdwun ; Anecdotes ; Return to the Valley.
Chapter 3. — The City of Roses and its environs; the
Wooler Lake ; Allsoo, Bunkote, and the Koh-i-hama ;
Bundipore; the Lolab Valley; Black Bear -Shooting ;
Return to City ; Sopur, Baramoola, and the Valley of
the Jhelum ; the Ghost of a Bear ; Oorie ; Recross the
Pinjal; Temples near Baramoola ; The Kamraj ; Fare
well to the Jhelum.
Chapter 4. — A Summer's Night in Cashmere; Bear
Shooting in the Mulberry Groves; Sopur; Fishing in
the Wooler Lake ; Sailing up the river Jhelum ; Life
and Legends in the City of Roses.
Chapter 5. — Sketch of the Ancient Hindoo Fables of
Cashmere, derived from a Persian Manuscript or Trans
lation of the "Raja Taringini," the Ancient Sanscrit
Chronicle of the country.
Chapter 6. — The Trahul Monntains; Caught in the
rains on Wuster-VVun; Mamisir Lake; Anecdotes of
mountain sport; Join camp of Pilgrims; The Seshnag
Lake ; Panch-teren, and the road to 'Amr-Nauth ; The
Caves of Amr-Nauth; Sonarsir and the Duchin Para;
High-hill Shooting ; Marmots ; Harput-Nar, etc. ; Bear
Driving in the wooded spurs of Mulwun and Banihal.
Chapter 7. — A solitary Hunt in Wurdwun; Soknuz and
the lateral Valleys of Sooroo ; The Pyhil-Kynjie Pass ;
Ibex Shooting ; Barasing Deer in the Naboo Hills ; Bear
Shooting by Night in the Walnut Groves ; Pictures of
the Cashmere Valley.

Contents. vii.
Section I. continued. page
Chapter 8.— Preparing to leave Cashmere valley; A final
Hunt ; Return journey over the Pir Pinjal ; Aknoor and
Jummoo ; Historical Notes ; Moolvie (Doctor) Mahboob
Ali of Lahore, and Misr Dass of Srinugger, introduced
to the reader; Religious tenets ; Wahabees; Sikhs; etc.
Chaptbr 9.— Revisit Cashmere; Valley of the Chdndra-
bhaga; Pilgrimages; Fabulous account of the river
Jhelum or Vetasta ; Gool-Merg and the Pine Forests of
the Pir Pinjal ; An Earthquake on horseback ; Baba
Pam Rishi and the Hermits of Cashmere ; The Marishes
of Hakrisir; The Manasbul and Gungabul Lakes; "Hara-
Mookh" Mountain ; The Temples of Razadan and Lar.
Chapter 10.— The Sinde Valley; Anecdotes; Stag Shoot
ing; Cave of Kuckaputtrie ; Panoramic Views of the
Valley ; Autumnal Aspects ; Ebbing Springs ; Return to
the City of Srinugger ; Preparations for Departure ; Up
the Jhelum ; Pampoor ; The Temples of Pandrethun,
Kakapore, Pyach, Wentipur, and Bejbiharrie ; The Ves-
hau River and Arabul Cascade ; Return across the Pinjal
by the Sedau and Kiiri Passes ; Lammergeyers ; Young
Bears ; Jummoo, etc. ; Conclusion.
Appendix 1. — Historical Sketch of Cashmere (page 133).
Appendix 2. — "Martund."
Appendix 3. — Archaeological.
Section II. ... ... ... ... 165-227
THE KOHISTHAN OF THE PUNJAUB— Chapter 1.
— The Highlands of the Sind-Saogor Doab — Intro
ductory ; Military Expeditions and Rides along the
north-west frontier ; Valley of the Kurrum ; The
Hazaras; Along the Indus; Gundgurh; Legends; Rawul-
pindi, Murrie, and the adjacent Hills ; Ooryal Shooting
in the Salt Range; Anecdotes; Marches across the Sind-
Saugor Doab ; Hailstorms ; Locusts ; Abbottabad and
Eastern Hazara ; Dhumtore ; Coins.
Annexe to Chapter 1. — Ooryal Shooting; The Indus in
Flood.
Chapter 2. — Kohat to Peshawer; Ride along the Mo-
mund frontier to Michni, Aboozai, and Shubkudr; Arch
aeological Anecdotes; Hawking in Yoosuphzai and the
Derajhat; Gazelle Hunting in the plains of Chach ; Wolf
Hunting ; Anecdotes ; Mahaseer at Aboozai, and in the
rivers Indus, Dor, Sirun, and Hurr6h; Fairyland;
Ethnological.Annexe to Chapter 2. — Hawking in India.
Appendix 1. — Extract from Journal of the Expedition
against the Kabul Kheyl Wuzzeeries, 1859-60.

viii. Contents.
Section II. continued. page
Appendix 2. — Extract from Journal of the Expedition
to Derbund, against the Sitana fanatics, 1863-4.
Appendix 3. — Coins ; Notes on the Legends, etc.
Appendix 4. — Note on the Gakhars.
Section III  228-264
THE KOHISTHAN OF THE PUNJAUB (Part 2.)
Chapter 1.— The Highlands of the Rechna, Bari, and
Jullunder Doabs, including Kishtewar, Boodrawar, Bar-
mawar, Chumba, the Kangra Valley, and the group of
associated Hill Principalities — [page 56, Vol. L, "High
lands of India"]— Kiilu, Lahoiil, Zanskar, Spiti, and the
Valley of the Sutlej.
Chapter 2.
Appendix. — Illustrations.
Section IV. ... ... ... ... 265-277
SIMLA, THE KEYONTHAL, AND THE BASINS
OF THE SUTLEJ & GIRL— A day's "Lockspitting"
on the Thibet road; Anecdotes; The Forest of Nakunda;
Ascent of Mount Huttoo ; Pheasant Shooting ; A Trip
to Koomarsen and the Sutlej ; Fireflies ; Picnic to the
Ch5r Mountain ; The Shunkun Ridge.
Sections V. and VI. ... ... ... 278-304
THE HIMALAYAN WATERSHEDS— THE BASINS
OF THE JUMNA AND GANGES — GURHWAL
AND KUMAON. — Chapter 1., Gurhwal — Mussorie,
andtheDehraDhoon; Farming operations; TheSewaliks;
Anecdotes of Mahaseer fishing; The Uplands of Gurh
wal ; Mountain Panorama ; High-hill Game ; Hindoo
Legends ; Bhima the Pandau.
Chapter 2., Kumaon. — The Approaches to Kumaon;
NainiThal; Game; The Kurnah Valley; The Kumaon
Lakes; Tigers at Rajgah ; Almora ; Anecdotes of Sport
and Travel in East Kumaon; Legends; The "Spectre of
the Brocken"; Bhagesir; The Surjoo; Mahaseer again;
Down the Pindri river to the Alaknanda; Home by
Gwarihath and Ranikhet ; Farewell to Kumaon.
Annexe to Chapter 2 — Notes on Sport in Kumaon.
Appendix 1. — Gungootri, etc
Appendix 2. — Camp of the Pandaus.
Section VII. ... ... ... ... 305-315
NEPAL, AND THE BASINS OF THE KARNALI,
GUNDUK, AND COSL— Western Nepal ; The visit of
Prince Waldemar of Prussia to Khatmandoo, 1845; The
mystic city "Alaka"; An Adventure in Eastern Nepal.

Contents. ix.
PAGE
Section VIII. ... ... ... ... 316-368
DARJEELING AND SIKHIM.— Chapter 1., British
Sikhim. — Travels along the Frontier; Tongloo and the
bamboo forests on west ; Peeps into Nepal ; Cat Bears
(ailurus fulgens); Singaleela spur; Blood-pheasants; The
Rummaum ; The Kanjulia Outposts : Along the Run-
geet; Across the Teesta to Damsong plateau; The ceded
Bhootia Doars; Game; Products; Fishing in the Teesta;
A strange Fish hooked ; Chinese Horses ; A solitary
Xmas; A Picnic at Lebong; Glimpses of Kanchanjinga.
Chapter 2. — New-year's Day at Darjeeling; Short Trips
about the district ; The Valley of the Rungbee and Sit-
tong ; Fish traps ; Primitive Swing Bridge ; Resume
frontier Travel ; The Terai, and the Valleys of the Bal-
asun and Mechi ; Bad behaviour of two Behemoths ;
Camp in jungle near Gariduri; Search for Tigers; Punka-
barri and the lower ranges ; Approach to the foot of the
Hills ; Silligori ; Crossing the Terai on Elephants ; A
"mauvais quart-d'heure. "
Chapter 3., Independent Sikhim. — Sandoopchi and
Mount Tendong ; Across the Teesta ; Villages of the
temperate zone ; The Ruttoo ; Toomlong ; Interview
with the Rajah of Sikhim ; Peeps into the Ch61a and
Yakla Passes ; The Monastery of Rumtik ; Return to
Darjeeling. Chapter 4. — A Trip to Pemianchi Monastery; The
Valleys of the Rahtoo, Kullait, and Rungeet ; Kullock ;
Rinchinpong ; Ascent to Pemianchi ; Description of the
"Holyland" of Sikhim ; A few words on the Monastic
system ; Conclusion.
Appendix 1. — Archaeological.
Appendix 2. — Ethnological.
Annexe, Assam. — Note on Rhinosceros Shooting.
Section IX. ... ...  369-372
THE KHASIA HILLS.
Sections X, XL, XII  373-391
THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS— Chapter 1.— The
Nilgherry Plateau, with the Annamallays, Pulnays, and
Travancore Mountains ; The Shervaroy Hills and asso
ciated Spurs [mentioned at pages 143—5, Vol. I.]; The
Mountains of Malabar and Coromandel ; The Salt Lakes
or " Backwaters" of Travancore.
Chapter 2. — The Balaghaut, Mysore, Coorg, Canara,
etc., with a notice of the "Droogs" of Mysore; The
Falls of Gairsuppah and Cascades of the Balaghaut;
Falls of the Cauvery.

x. Contents. PAGE
Sections XIII. and XIV... ... ... 392-408
MAHARASHTRA AND CENTRAL INDIA—
Chapter 1. — The Western Ghauts (Syhoodria or Sah-
yadri Mountains), Mahabuleshwar, Mahteran; Pertab-
ghur; A Sporting Trip to the Dekhan by Raighur; A
Day's Walk on the Western Ghauts ; A notice of the
Hill Forts of the Dekhan ; The Watersheds of the God-
avery, Krishna, and Nerbudda.
Chapter 2. — The Vindhya, Sathpoora, and Kymore
Hills; Pachmari and the Basins of the Nerbudda, Tapti,
andGodavery; The Plateaux of Omerkantuk and Sedni;
The Watershed of Central India ; Bhima, the Pandau.
Section XV ...  ... 409-450
RAJASTHAN.— The Vindhyas to the Aravellis ; The
Uper-mal and the Rocks of Rajpootana, etc. ; Mount
Aboo and the Aravellis; Gwalior; A Ride along the
Aravellis.
Appendix 1. — Note on Sport in Rajpootana.
Appendix 2. — Notes on Rajpootana.
Appendix 3. — Note on Ancient Gwalior.
Annexe, The Marost-Hali, or Great Northern
Desert or India. — Anecdotes of Warfare and Sport;
Down the Sutlej to the Siege of Mooltan ; Hog Hunting
along the rivers of the Southern Punjaub; Antelope
Hunting; Wild Asses; Dhera-Ghazi-Khan in the Dera-
jhat (Trans-Indus) ; Note on the Indian Lion and Cheetah
(hunting-leopard), etc.
Section XVI. ... ... ... ... 451-453
NOTE ON INDIA ALBA.
Section XVII. ... ... ... 454-455
note on ceylon.
Appendix ... ... ... ... 457-464
ETHNOLOGICAL.

( xi. )

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

FRONTISPIECE—" Design "—Game. page
I. "Up the Hill" ... ... ... 1
II. Section of the Cashmere Valley ... 11
III. The City of Srinugger, from the
Zina-Kuddul ... ... ... 25
IV. Bear Shooting by Moonlight (2) ... 40
V. Hindoo Emblematic Picture ... 51
VI. Cashmere Valley Submerged in Cloud 59
VII. Descent of a Snow-cleft ... ... 71
VIII. Stag Shooting by Moonlight ... 78
IX. The Dead Stag (10th October) ... 91
X. Gungabul & the Peaks of Hara-mookh 100
XI. Panoramic View of the Cashmere
Valley ... ... ... ... 119
XII. Isometric and Section of Cashmere (2) 133
XIII. Ooryal Shooting in the Salt Range, 166
XIV. Sir W. Gilbert's Tree, Naoshera ... 201
XV. View of the Kangra Valley, from
Dharmsala ... ... ... 228
XVI. Valley of Gurput, Zanskar ... 246
XVII. View of the Chor Mountain and
"Shunkun Ridge," from Simla ... 265
XVIII. Farming in India, Dehra-Dhoon ... 278
XIX. Naini-Thal and Mount Cheena ... 289
XX. Sir Jung Bahadoor and Wife, Nepal, 305
XXI. Mount Tendong, from Junction of the
Rivers Rungeet, Sikhim ... ... 317
XXII. The Terai and Foot of the Hills
NEAR SlLLIGORI ... ... ... 329

xii. Illustrations.
PAGE
XXIII. The Chola Pass, from near Toomlong 336
XXIV A Trumpet Service at Lebong, Sikhim 344
XXV Section of the Himalayan Terai ... 357
XXVI. Falls of MoasMai, Khassias ... 369
XXVII. An Indian River ... ... ... 373
XXVIII. View from the Western Ghauts
(Mahteran) ... ... ... 392
XXIX. The Marble Rocks on the Nerbudha
(the home of the bees) ... ... 403
XXX. The Rock of Gwalior, from the "Bund"
at Morar ... ... ... 409
XXXI. A Siege Train on the March, North
west India ... ... ... 433
XXXII. Fort of Quetta (India Alba) ... 451

TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

10
n12131415
161718 19
20
2122

Runjeet Dehu's Tomb ... ... ... 3
Baggage Coolies ... ... ... ... 4
Crossing a mountain stream ... ... ... 5
Rajaorie ... ... ... ... ... 6
Cascade at Barumgulla ... ... ... 7
Sunset in the mountains ... ... ... 10
First view in the Vale of Cashmere ... ... 13
Camp at Changos — "Cuckoo-Cloud-Land" ... ... 15
The Wurdwun Mountains — " First Interview with 'Ursa
Major'"
A. 's Tete-a-tete with a Bear
Before the Battle
After the Battle
Adshah's house at Changos
A bit of Martund
The Jumna Musjid
Fort of Hari-Parvat, on the Koh-i-Maran (Hill of Serpents) —
The Eedgarh (15th June, 1851) ...
Sunset on the Wooler Lake
Black Bear Shooting
City and Lake of Cashmere
Takt-i-Suliman, Cashmere (from the river Jhelum) ... 32
Akbar Shah's Bridge ... ... ... 33

1719
21232427

282930

Illustrations.
NO.
23 Ruins near Baramoola
24 Waterfall near Poonch
25 Rapids of the Jhelum
26 Bridge of Sopur in the Kamraj
27 View on the Wooler Lake
28 The Singhara, or waternut
29 The Village of Alumnoor
30 Sailing up the river Jhelum in a storm
31 Doom of a Parricide ...
32 Bridge at Baramoola ...
33 The Mamisir Lake on the summit of Wuster-Wun
34 The Gypsum Caves of 'Amr-Nauth
35 The Home of the Marmots
36 Village of Mulwun
37 Goojur Huts (our lodging 8th August)
38 Village of Soknuz
38* Bivouac in Wurdwun
39 Snowfield on the banks of the Wurdwun river
40 Ibex Shooting in Wurdwun
41 John Barleycorn in difficulties
42 A volley at John Barleycorn
43 Log hut in the Naboo forest
44 View of the Cashmere Valley
45 Cheetul, or fallow deer
46 Old Pathan Bridge
47 The City of Srinugger, from the Safr-Kuddul
48 Hindoo picture emblematic of the Creation of the river
Jhelum or Vetasta
49 Sanbul, on the river Jhelum
50 Toolamoola (Mahomedan)
51 Keer Bhowani (Hindoo)
52 Old Houses on the Mar Canal, Cashmere city
53 Vines growing over poplars, Cashmere
54 Following up a wounded Bear
55 Cave of Kuckaputtrie
56 The Shdlimar Gardens, Cashmere
56* Bridge of Bejbiharrie
57 Scene in the Ruins of Echibul
58 Example of a Submerged Temple in the Manasbul Lake:
Cashmere
59 ( Lion Figures from the Mosque of Zein-ul-aboodeen.
60 j Cashmere
61 Mahomedan Gravestone at the Mosque of Zein-ul-aboodeen
62 Bell-shaped Finial, Toolamoola ...
63 Stone Pillar, used as a milestone, near Pathun
64 Sunset in the salt range

X%%%. PAGE 34353644
45 4748 4950676974757779818385S68690929499
102
104107 112
113 114120122
127
129 142161
¦ 162 163

168

xiv. Illustrations.
no. PAGE
65 OntheKurrum ... • •• ••• •¦• 169
66 Valley of the Kurrum ; troops crossing ... • •• 170
67 Panoramic View of the Indus for a distance of 25 miles 173
68 The Kabul river joining the Indus at Attock ... 176
69 Rawulpindiin 1849 ... ••• ••• ¦•• !79
70 Sunset on the Jhelum •¦• ¦•• ¦•• 186
71 Hussan Abdal, Punjaub ... ¦¦ ••• 192
72 The Pushtoo range ... ... •¦• ¦•• 202
73 The Tartara Mountain, from Peshawer ... ••• —
74 A Corner of Takt-i-bhai ... ... •¦• 2«i
75 Falcon and Owl ... ••¦ •¦• ••• 2°7
76 Lake head of river Nainsookh, Karghan ... ••• 213
77 Hawk striking Heron ... ••¦ ¦•• 220
78 Study of a deodar ... ... ••¦ ¦•¦ 228
79 Valley of the Chandrabhaga, Pangi ... ¦¦• 229
80 Nalyghur ... ••• •¦• ••¦ 237
81 Kanwan, on the river Beas ... ... ••• 240
82 The Fort and Village of Hurriepore ... ... 244
83 Kujjear ... ... ... ••• ¦¦¦ 247
84 The Kangra Valley, from the gateway of the fort ... 251
85 Fort Kangra, the ancient Nagakot ... ... —
86 Pallumpore, from the travellers' bungalow ... 252
87 Incremation of Thakoor Sing, last Raja of Kulu ... 255
88 Swing Bridge over the Chandrabhaga at Kaksur . . . 256
89 Goondileh, in the valley of Lahoul ... ... —
90 Pheasant Shooting in the forest of Nakunda ... 261
91 Pine Tree overpowered by creepers ... ... 262
92 The Goddess Jullundrie ... ... ... 263
93 Temple of Bhlma, valley of the Sutlej ... ... 264
94 View of Simla, from Mahasoo ... ... ... 265
95 Study of a deodara cedar ... ... ... 267
96 Ferns on trees at the "Gables," Mushobra ... ... 268
97 Roadside ferns and flowers ... ... ... 277
98 Mussorie, — Landaur in the distance ... ... 279
99 A Dell in Gurhwai ... ... ... ... 283
100 A distant view of Kaiias ... ... ... 287
101 Mulwun Tal, Kumaon ... .... ... 291
102 The Valley of the Ramgunga in mist ... ... 293
103 Rishyasringa, the silver stag ... ... ... 294
104 The Valley of the Sardah or Surjoo ... ... 295
105 The Pindri Glacier ... ... ... ... 298
106 Almora, from Sitowlie ... ... ... 299
107 A "bit" of Champavat, the ancient eapitol of Kumaon... 300
108 The Camp of the Pandaus ... ... ... 304
109 The Nepal Mountains, from Loharghat, Kumaon ... 305
110 Lake near Goruckpoor ... ... ... 307

Illustrations. xv.
NO. PAGE
111 The Snowy Range, from Mount Senchal, near Darjeeling 311
112 Fort and Valley of Elam, from the Tongloo Ridge ... 313
113 The Source of the Mechi ... ... ... 315
114 Kanchanjinga, from JuUapahar Cantonment, Darjeeling, 318
115 Kanchanjinga, with Pemianchi Monastery, etc. .. 319
116 Kumbaoorken, head Coolie (Bhootia), & the dog "Tikdar" 320
117 Tempoo, a Lepcha shikari ... ... ... 321
118 Ou the road to Damsong ... ... ... 323
119 Looking down the Teesta ... ... ... 324
120 A Chort or Mausoleum, Sikhim ... ... 328
121 Tiger prowling round camp ... ... ... 332
122 Melastoma malabathricum (a flowering plant), Darjeeling 334
123 A Sikhim (Lepcha) soldier ... ... ... 336
124 Village of Penjong ... — ... ... 337
125 Mount Tendong, from Nye ... ... ... 338
126 The Sikhim Rajah's Palace, Toomlong ... ... 339
127 View on the Runyep ... ... ... 340
128 A Peep into the Yakla Pass from the Runyep ... 341
129 The Deity Dukk Pomoo ... ... ... 342
130 Village of Naztum ... ... ... ... —
131 Obituary Pillar near Rumtik ... ... ... 343
132 Chinese Pilgrims or Gipsies ... ... ... 345
133 OntheKullait ... ... ... ... 347
134 A "Chort" near Zyie-zing ... ... ... 348
135 Group of Llamas ... ... ... ... 350
136 The Kullong Rock ... ... ... ... 352
137 A Harr or Mendong at Zyie-zing ... ... 353
138 Facsimile of each slab of the above ... ... —
139 The Rajah Regent of Sikhim ... ... ... 354
140 Sikhim Llamas (Lepchas) ... ... ... —
141 Chungzed-Chunder-Durtzi, Minister of Sikhim ... 355
142 A "Princess" of Sikhim ... ... ... —
143 A Sikhim Llama (Lepcha), Darjeeling ... ... 356
144 The Headman of Lebong and his family (Bhootias) ... —
145 Cherrapoonjee ... ••• ••• ••¦ 370
146 Sunset in camp ... ... ••• ••• 372
147 The "Koondahs," from the lake of Ootacamund ... 373
148 The Nilgherries, from Ootacamund ... ... 374
149 South-east edge of the Nilgherry Plateau ... ... 375
150 The Coffee Grounds at Neddiwuttun ... ... 376
151 East edge of the Nilgherry Plateau ... ... 377
152 Distant View of old Delhi ... ... ... 384
153 View on the "Backwater," Travancore ... ... 386
154 Laterite Cliffs near Wurkully, Coromandel Coast ... 387
155 Hyder's Drop, Mysore ... ¦•• ••• 388
156 Sample of a Southern Droog ... •¦• ••¦ —

xvi. Illustrations.
NO. 157 SunkeryDroogj gneiss hill pierced bygranite inforeground
158 Distant View of Nundy Droog, Mysore
159 Pertabghur, from Mahabuleshwar
160 Fort of Raighur in the Concan, from the western ghauts,
161 Tiger Walk, Mahabuleshwar
162 Bombay Harbour
163 The Pachmari Escarpment
164 On the river Nerbudha, — Vindhya Mountains
165 Powerghur Hill, Vindhyas ; from the valley of Sooki ..
166 The Mahadeo or Pachmari Hills from the south
167 Temple at summit of mount Aboo (Gooru-Sikur)
168 View on the river Bimass, Rajpootana
169 Lake at mount Aboo, Aravellis
170 Distant View of the Aravelli range
171 Example of a Rajpoot Fort, Bunair
172 Profile of the Gwalior Rock on the south-east
173 Scindia's new Palace, Gwalior ...
174 Lake of Oodipore
175 The Thai Pass
176 Highland Temples
177 Shorkote, — siege train on the march
178 Ruins near Lahore
179 On the Sutlej, — native funeral party on "mussocks"
180 A Freshet on the Sutlej,— Buddrie-Ghat ...
181 Crossing the Ravi, Rajghaut (Mirage)
182 Sheikh Emamoodeen's Camp, Chuniote
183 An affair at the outposts
184 Mahomedan Beggars
185 Distant View of Candahar
186 Section of the Sulieman mountains from the Indus to
Candahar
187 Quetta and the surrounding mountains
188 The ruined Moghul Fortress of Siazgai
189 Spurs of the Kirtar Range impinging on the Indus
190 The Upper Lake of Candy, Ceylon
191 Ruined Fortress of Si (n)giri, Ceylon
192 Mahomedan Women (Cashmere)
193 Cashmere Boatmen, Peasants, etc.
194 Sikh and Dogra Soldiers (Cashmere)
195 Guddies (Barmawar and Kangra Valleys) ...
196 Gurhwallies
197 A Bhootia (Darjeeling)
198 A Bhootia Woman
199 A Darjeeling Milkman (Lepcha) ...
200 A Sikhim Llama (Bhootia)
201 Todars (or Tonwars) Nilgherries...

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461 462
463
464

I.— "UP THE HILL

HIGHLANDS OF INDIA.

SECTION L-CASHMERE.

"Who has not heard of the 'Vale of Cashmere,'
With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave !"

CHAPTER I.
Introductory — Start for Cashmere — Ride Across Country
— Lahore — Goojeranwalla — Goojerat — The "Chibhal "
— Bhimbur — The Aditalc Ranges, and Valley of the
Tovi— Mahaseer Fishing — Rajaorie and the Rutton
Pir — Cascades on the Poonch River — Gorge of
Poshiana — Across the Pir Pinjal — High-hill Sport
— Game and Gastronomies — Lall Golaum, the Man-
Eater.
A SUMMER holiday in the "Vale of Cashmere!"* The
Argument contains its own fulfilment! The very
words suggest pleasant meres and sparkling fountains,
cool mossy nooks and flowery slopes of forest land; the
rose gardens and walnut groves of a temperate zone ;
villages half buried in the foliage of magnificent chenars
(plane-trees); and wild glens fringed with feathery cedar
and waving fir !
The traveller who has visited and roamed over the fair
valley, especially when "youth and hope were strong
within his breast," must be dull indeed if he cannot

* We will adhere to the alliteration of our youth, when Kasmir was
written as in the text, B

9 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
recall sufficient of the picturesque and adventurous for a
few Sketches in Cashmere.
Well ! to commence. On the 1st of May, 1851, having
been joined a day or two previously by a valued brother
from Rajpootana, I started on a summer's holiday to
the far-famed and, in those days, romantic "Vale of
Cashmere." This lovely country had only two years before — at the
close of the second Sikh war, when the rest of the Pun-
jaub had fallen to our arms — escaped annexation, and
being still in a measure untrodden ground, and free from
the invading footsteps of the ubiquitous British tourist,
still possessed some elements of romance for lovers of the
picturesque and of sylvan sports in general; and we
looked forward with bright anticipations to our summer
ramble over its mountains and meres.
Discarding the ordinary "Palki dawk" — the usual
method of travelling in the plains of north-west India in '
those days — we decided to ride across country to the
foot of the hills. This we accordingly carried out via
Lahore, Goojeranwalla, Goojerat, and Bhimbur; halting
a day at each place to see friends and " lions."
As we cantered off " before gunfire," in the early morn
ing of the 1st of May, after an early cup of coffee, "the
world before us where to choose," — our fresh Arabs
bounding under us in the cool air of dawn — our youthful
hearts full of bright anticipations — who shall say that we
did not then touch on some of the happiest moments of
life, long to be remembered in after years of drudgery
and disappointment. At this time I had some reason to
anticipate political employment — perhaps in Cashmere —
a coveted appointment ; and I had hoped that my then
bright and valued companion might perhaps have been
associated with me. His early loss — then so little ex-

Chapter l.] Cashmere. 3
pected — was perhaps the cause of an entire change in
my career, as I ceased further endeavours to achieve the
realization of my hopes when that sad event occurred,
two years after the time I write of. To resume,
The 4th of May found us, after a ride of 38 miles, at
Goojeranwalla, the birthplace of Runjeet Sing's father
(Runjeet Dehu), whose tomb was in those days included
within the precincts of the travellers' rest-house, which
was simply the gateway
thereof bricked up into
rooms in the make-shift
and somewhat gothic
manner we had to adopt
in those early years of
the occupation of a re-
centlyacquiredprovince.I recall that as we visited
the tomb in the moon
light on the night of
our arrival, an owl was flitting ghostlike around the white
marble dome, surrounding which also several ancient
trunks of trees loomed white and spectral in the shadows
of night — a suggestive picture !
The 6th we devoted to a visit to the field of Goojerat,
where, little over two years before, was fought the great
battle of the 21st February, 1849, which put the fate of
the Punjaub in our hands. The field of battle was now
covered with smiling crops, of which, however, the greater
part had been gathered in, so that I had little difficulty
in recognizing the positions taken up by the battery in
which I served, and those of the enemy opposed to us in
the action. Scarcely any relics, however, of this stricken
field remained, beyond a few heaps of bones collected
here and there on the ridges between the furrows of the
b2

Runjeet Dehu's Tomb.

4 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
corn fields. At sunset the same day we visited the small
enclosure, amidst trees, where the graves of the few
brother officers who fell in the action were placed.
At Goojerat our travellers' troubles commenced, as
here we failed to procure coolies, and had to halt a day
s at the miserable dak bungalow
,J^li -*^lliil0\ (rest-house) near the town.
'^^^^^(^^ff^^m ®n the 8th, however, we man-
'l? 'f M^T^'ii lli-9 a8"e<l to make a start of it; and
W^s^^^^^^^^^S riding from village to village
-t- ¦-f~srr__!^>--^=^^-=— across a strange, wild country,
Baggage Coolies. we arrive(i at " Bhimbur," the
first town in Cashmere territory, at the foot of the hills,
distant some 20 miles by the road, but perhaps 25 miles
by the track we followed.
At Bhimbur* we fell in with a party of H.M.'s 9th
Lancers, amongst whom I recognized an old Rugby
scholfellow — now a distinguished general officer— who
afterwards became my fellow traveller, and shared in
many of the adventures to be narrated in the subsequent
chapters of this little chronicle. From this point we sent
back our chargers to Ferozepore, continuing our journey
into the hills next day on less exalted quadrupeds.
On the 9th: "To Shahabad, 14 miles; a bad and stony
"road for six miles, through the dry bed of a torrent,
"in which we observed great quantities of oleander
"bushes in flower. After leaving the river we en
countered an awful climb and descent — across the
"Aditak — some five miles; we lost our way in the hills,
"and had to ford several mountain streams to recover the

* Bhimbur is associated with the mythic History of Cashmere ; and
is fabled to have been the dwelling place of the divine "Kashiapa,"
the architect or founder of Cashmere, whose valley he is stated to have
drained about 2,666 B.C. On this subject see further on.

Chapter 1.]

Cashmere.

"track, in one of which
"our horses got out of
"their depth, and we
"found ourselves swim-
"ming in a pool of the
"river." I have since thought
the horses, although
swimming, must have
felt the bottom, as we
found our seats level
and easyriding, whereas Crossing a momWn s(ream.
I have since seen, whilst out hunting, some of the best
riders in Upper India floated out of their saddles in deep
water. "We saw chik6r "(red-legged partridge) along
"this march. On arrival at camp we enjoyed a delightful
"bath in the stream.
"Next day, 10th, — across the Kaman Goshi — a better
"road but stony in parts. ' Blacks' (francolin), and grey
"partridges, and peafowl, calling all along the road. We
"arrived at Naoshera in the afternoon, and immediately
"tried the river for mahaseer."
Having now debouched into the valley of the Tovi, a
fine mountain stream, we determined to halt and try the
fishing hereabouts; and in fact we caught several maha
seer, and some smaller fish, with the fly. So continuing
our route up the river past Changos Serai, and other
villages, we fished our way along, capturing a good many
fair mahaseer; my largest being one of 141b. weight, from
a pool near Changos. Mahaseer of 20lb., 30lb, and even
40lb. weight* have been taken out of this river hereabouts ;
* This fish attains great size : the late Sir Archdale Wilson used to
tell the story of his catching one of 841b. weight in the Sooswa river in
the Dun, a feat taking three and a half hours; and at Bhagesir in Kum-

6

The Highlands of India.

[Section I.

especially from one grand pool — or rather a deep, rocky
reach — between Naoshera and Changos, well known to
anglers of a subsequent period.
The interesting ruins of an old Serai, built by Ali Mur-
dan Khan, the Mogul Governor of Cashmere, about 1651
A.D., are here to be seen. Here I experienced a severe
attack of illness — something very like cholera — but, though
my march next day was pain and grief unto me, we pushed
on to Rajaorie, and there put up in the beautiful garden
house built by Azimut-oola-Khan, where I laid up for
rest and recovery. Many historical associations cluster
around Rajaorie, but it -were long to particularize them
and the reader may be referred to the Appendix.

SB
i33

RAJAORIE.
A. went fishing down the river — still the Tovi — with
some success. This river rises in the Pinjal, near the Rutton

aon (where outlines in charcoal of all large fish caught in the adjacent
river Surjoo are to be seen on the walls of the Dak Bungalow, with dates
of capture etc. ), I found one of these was stated to have weighed 1201b. !
the largest specimen I have ever heard of.

Chapter 1.]

Cashmere.

Pir, and is a fine fishing stream, and not too rapid. After
an intramontane course of some 50 miles, it joins the
Chenab (Acescines) a few miles above Wuzzeerabad.
In the summer, when the water is low, the mahaseer
are found swarming in the pools between the streams or
"stickles" (Devon), and if found shy of the fly or minnow,
they will often take the "spoon'' in the deep water; or
oftener still, a pellet of "atta" (flour), with a little cotton
to make it stick, dropped gently into a pool in the
"gloamin'," will often fetch your mahaseer when
other allurements fail. This is a migratory fish; the
"big" river into which he descends in winter being to
him as the salt sea to the salmon. I once saw a shoal
of I suppose millions of these fish passing, for three days,
down the Caubul river, opposite the fort of "Aboozai" in
the Yoosuphzai valley, in the late autumn, towards the
Indus. They would not look at any bait. The fish re-
ascend the hill streams in the spring. Some, however,
perhaps remain in the upper waters throughout the winter,
as I once caught several
as late as Christmas in
the Kurrum valley, where
our camp lay for several
weeks during the expedit
ion against the Caubul-
Keyl Wuzzeeries, under
Sir Neville Chamberlain,
in the winter of 1859-60.
In a day or two we re
sumed our march up the
valley of the Tovi. We
crossed the watershed of
the Rutton Pir On the - Cascade aFBar^guWr
16th, and arrived at the Sikh outpost of Barumgulla.
Here there is a beautiful cascade.

8 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
On the upper waters of the "Poonch" river — during
our next march up the gorge of this river to Poshiana —
we crossed no less than 28 bridges; some of them little
better than single trees roughly thrown across the stream,
into which also many mountain torrents precipitate them
selves in diversified cascades. The snow was melting on
the higher peaks, and every rivulet was full of water
rendering the slopes of the hillsides green and fresh with
the verdure of early spring.
Soon after passing Poshiana, one begins to ascend the
pass of the Pir Pinjal. Here the gorges are grand in the
extreme ; in one of them we flushed a pair of woodcocks,
which are said to breed here — a gladsome sight to the
dweller in "the plains," or the English sportsman long
from home.
As we neared the snow field on the summit of the pass
— at this season nearly two miles in extent — we stalked
some snow partridges. We also met a traveller, who told
us that a large snow bear had just crossed the road; but
we had no time to follow up his track. Our spirits began
to rise under the influence of the rarified atmosphere of a
temperate zone, and the proximity of glorious surround
ing scenery, with "game."
After crossing the snow field at Alliabad Serai, on the
summit of the pass, we passed some fine woodcock
ground, a lacework of beautiful springs threading the
wooded slopes on the left of the road, where in fact we
flushed several "cocks," but we afterwards found the
ground had been shot over only the previous day by a
party consisting of our old friends the " Lancers," whom
we found on arrival at Heerpore. One of them had just
brought in a large black bear. Here we braced ourselves
for hill shooting; each taking our respective side beat, we
tried the Pinjal behind us for game. Near the summit

Chapter l.] Cashmere. 9
of the mountain I chanced upon and followed for some
distance a creature I suppose to have been a snow leo
pard, but to this day I have not quite decided in my
mind what the "janwa"* (animal) was! He turned round
and faced me several times, but presented so difficult a
shot that I lost him in the glooms of evening below the
Pir Pinjal.
On this occasion I tasted "bear" meat for the first (and
last) time. As a gastronomic experiment I should con
sider it a failure, and feel inclined to relegate it to the
larder of the mythic Blunderbore of evil memory; who,
with his Fi, Fo, Fum, seems to have appreciated the
the flavour of the typical Englishman; to whom indeed
poor Bruin, when divested of his fur jacket bears no in
considerable, but rather ghastly resemblance ! This re
minds me that hereabouts also we are in the vicinity of
the former abode of another gentleman of advanced tastes
in gastronomy — one Lall Golaum "Adamkhor" (man-
eater), a cannibal robber of a past age, whose haunt was
somewhere near the right of the road under the summit
of the Pir Pinjal pass. Whether, however, Lall Golaum
was an actual devourer of "long pig" may be doubted, as
the term "Adamkhor" may simply refer to his general
destruction of the human species. In Eastern phrase
ology one is often said to eat mud, dirt, etc., or a horse
(and rider) to eat the road, etc., as hyperbolic expressions,
so that possibly history may wrong the estimable Lall
Golaum as regards his me"nu, and his character — like
* I have never heard that the lion is ever found in these mountains,
else I should conjecture this creature to have been one. He was of a
"fulvous white" colour, sloping from the shoulders like an hyaena, but
with long tufted tail. Possibly he may have been a large wolf of the
Siberian variety, specimens of which are occasionally seen in the moun
tains of north-west India. But for the tail, I should have considered
him an hyaena if that animal ever puts on winter livery.

10

The Highlands of India.

[Section 1.

that of many other historical personages — require re
habilitation. I have not visited the tower of this
redoubtable personage; though I subsequently made
many rambles in the vicinity, above Heerpore, towards
the Kuri and Sedau paths.
On high ground, on both sides of the Pinjal, there are
some lovely camping grounds in the forest glades along
the slopes of the Pinjal, and even several tarns or lakes
of an interesting character. I did not on this occasion
find time to visit them, as we were eager to reach the
"Vale of Cashmere;" at that time a land of romance to
youngsters like ourselves, fresh from readings of Lalla
Rookh, and the glowing pages of Eastern travel; so we
pushed on down the interior slopes of the mountain, and
soon came in sight of the lovely plain extended at our
feet, of which, however, an account may be reserved for
the next chapter.

Sunset in the mountains.

^^^ro

VaZe of CcbBhxnjerv

Two sandstone ridges
—Rutton Fir, syenite.
North, gneiss — also lime
stone much contorted.
Lower hills sparsely
wooded with pinus longi-
folia. Slopes of Pir Pin
jal, cedars and pines.
Game. — Partridges,
chikor, peafowl, cheetul,
leopards, black bears,
mahaseer (fish), pheas
ants, wolves, hyaenas,
wild fowl, goorul.

Diluvial — old sea beaches
(karewahs), containing
marine and lacustrine
fossils 400, 1300, and 800
feet above terre-plein of
valley. Mountains, phi-
tonic ; trap, basalt, and
limestone. Game. — Bears (black
and brown), musk deer,
markhore (serpen t eater),
thar (E. Pinjal), snow
leopards, chikor, pheas
ants, 'snow partridges,
woodcocks, wild fowl on
lake, mahaseer, and Him
alayan trout.

Rugged country with
peaks of granite and
gneiss — a few horne-
blende rocks.
On the Indus, diluvial
and fluvial terraces with
old beaches. Himalaya
Mountains, trap <fe basalt.
Game. — Snojv bear-,
ibex (Thibetan species),
barasing deer (hangloo),
a few surrow, wild dogs
(earn* tirlmasvus).
Across the Indus. —
Wild horses (quagga),
argoli (ovu ctvvmonis),
„ ,, pollii
wild yak ( bos grunniens),
Thibetan antelopes.

U.^SECTION OF THE CASHMERE VALLEY.

Chapter 2.] Cashmere. 11

CHAPTER II.
Descent from the Pir Pinjal— Vernal Aspect of the Valley
of Cashmere — Shupeyon — Islamabad — Martund —
"Cuckoo-Cloud-Land " — Changos — Naboog — A cross
the Pyhil-Kynjie Pass — High-hill Shooting in
Wurdwun — Anecdotes — Return to the Valley.
IT was on a fine spring morning about the time of the
vernal equinox — the Nau R6z, or New Year's Day of
the Mahomedan calendar— that in company with one
companion, my valued brother A., I stood on a slope
below the Pir Pinjal, and first looked down on the fair
"Vale of Cashmere" at our feet.
At this period of the year the valley is fabled to have
been drained by supernatural agencies, and formed into
its present aspect from the subsidence of a vast primaeval
salt lake which occupied its basin.
As we gazed on its expanse, the uplands sloping from
the surrounding peaks were just released from the snows
of winter, and were pouring their tributary streamlets
from the margin of the snow-line into the larger rivers.
These rivers, for the most part, join the tortuous Jhelum
(or Behut*), which at this season is full to the brim ; its
sluggish stream, winding serpentine through the valley
from east to west, appearing like a silver thread as viewed
from the heights of the Pir Pinjal. Its channel is, at
this season, insufficient to carry off the waters of the vast
surrounding watershed; and although in its course it
feeds three extensive lakes, still many streams fail to find
an outlet, and the valley at this time of spring — almost
* The classic Vetasta or Hydaspes.

12 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
flooded — presents a partial resemblance to the great
primaeval lake; the fields on the terre-plein being sub
merged, the leek-green rice shoots only just appearing
above water in places; the villages appear, from the
height of the Pir Pinjal, like tufts of foliage dotting here
and there the surface of the watery expanse.
The landscape is diversified by the wooded spurs which
run down from the adjacent mountains into the terre-
plein of the valley. These, together with the "karewahs'
or plateaux of alluvial land which jut into the valley in
places break the outline, and add variety to the land
scape. Above and around the entire valley the grand
snow-capped Himalayan mountains — here divided into
two arms by the Valley of Cashmere — shut in this Eastern
Paradise from the outer world; whilst the glaciers of
Sooroo and hither Thibet tower in the distance, and
bound the far horizon. A scene of mingled sublimity
and beauty is thus presented, sufficiently approximating
to the semblance of a vast inland sea to suggest the idea
of its lacustrine origin, a fabulous account of which will
be presented further on.
Before leaving the Pinjal we beat for game over the
mountains right and left, but beyond stalking a snow
leopard — or perhaps an hyaena if that animal ever assumes
a wintry livery, — some snow partridges, and a few wood
cock flushed in the ravines and slopes of the pass between
Poshiana and Heerpore, we met with little success, and
determined at once to push on across the valley to
happier hunting grounds.
My journal of this trip — with that of my valued brother
— is before me as I write, and I could quote the ipsissima
verba in which we recorded our impressions, but for seve
ral reasons I refrain from burdening the narrative with
details scarcely so interesting to the general reader as

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

13

ourselves. I may, however, be able perhaps to present a
few of the roadside sketches then made, currente stylo,
as conveying an idea of the scenery passed through
during our journeyings about this lovely land.
Our first experience, however, of the far-famed Vale of
Cashmere was not a little startling; on emerging from
the mountains we encountered
near Shupeyon the ghastly
spectacle of a skeleton (one of
three) still hanging in chains
from the first large tree on the
roadside descending into the
valley terre-plein. The sole
crime of this poor wretch was
that he had killed a cow! the
greatest of sins in the eye of a
Hindoo government. We after
wards met with further instances
of the Draconian severity of old
Golaub Sing's penal code, e.g.,
the skeleton of a parricide hung
in chains within a low iron cage on the bank of the river
below "the city;" also a human hand (that of a thief) in
a cage on the Zina Kuddul bridge, of the city. Old
Golaub Sing used to laugh at our mild code, and declare
we did not know how to suppress crime; and it must be
admitted that he succeeded in his object, as regards ex
terminating theft.
Passing onwards by Heerpore, one soon arrives at
Shupeyon, the first town in the valley, beautifully situ
ated amidst the channels of innumerable rivulets, which,
originating in the slopes of the Pir Pinjal, gush forth from
the wooded glens and brawl across the meadow land, their
banks studded with wild flowers; thence we rode across

First View in the Vale of Cashmere.

14 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
the "sounding marshes" of the semi-submerged valley,
and made our way in one long march to Islamabad, the
ancient Anant-Ghur — so called from the sacred pools of
Ananti-Nag in its precincts. During this ride I recollect
near Shupeyon galloping a base for the triangulation of
a rough military sketch of the country I undertook in
those early days (1851) of our occupation of the Punjaub.
At Islamabad we halted two days for the purpose of
viewing interesting points in its vicinity, such as Martund,
Echibul, etc.; then, as my companion's leave was short, we
pushed on across the sunny kareVah or plateau of Martund,
on which the grand old Temple of the Sun still rears its
massive, though shattered, walls amid the summer air of
the Miraj. This is the eastern district of the Cashmere
valley. The temple is in reality dedicated to the Hindoo
Triad. The "mystic orb triform" being emblematical of
the Sun, of which a figure was found in one of the
temples comprising the group, and to which the temple
itself was dedicated. After a brief consideration of these
marvellous ruins, called by the people thereabouts Pan-
dau-lerrie (the house of the Pandaus), we journeyed on
past Changos and the Naboog valley into Wurdwun — a
land of snow-clad mountain and forest.
In this favoured land — unlike many Alpine regions of
Europe — the earth, when released from snow, immediately
puts on the most charming livery of emerald green, on
which orchidaceous plants, and lovely wild flowers such
as anemones, irises, potentillas, fritillaria, melilot, etc.,
spring up as by enchantment from the soil. I have even
seen luxuriant clusters of roses blooming on the very
verge of the snow.* I find a sketch of one such scene, in
the Naboog valley, in which we pitched camp.
» The "Feast of Roses" is often kept in Cashmere as early as the
vernal equinox; but it is a "moveable feast," and dependent on the cal
endar of the Mahomedan (lunar) year, and of course varies therewith.

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

15

The "Cuckoo-cloud-land" of Aristophanes might here
be realized, as we observed perhaps a dozen or more of
those birds in the trees of the walnut grove in which we
camped. It was apparently their pairing season, and the
birds seemed in an ecstacy of joy, one sign of which was
the occasional reduplication, or even triplication, of the
characteristic note; this I do not remember to have pre
viously heard elsewhere : for myself, I confess to a certain
"disillusionment" at such a redundancy of the somewhat
cruel bird, whose charming note is to my mind best heard
in the distant woodlands — a "wandering voice" from
fairyland ! as I used to fancy it in childhood. About the
grove also many specimens of the little crested hoopoe —
the Epops of "The Birds" — were to be seen, busily pecking
about the fresh herbage under the trees; another charac
teristic of " cuckoo-cloud-land."

Camp at Changos---"Cuckoo-Cloud-Land."

I recollect remarking to my dear companion of those
days, that should we both live to old age, we should never
forget the scenes we were then passing through. Alas !

16 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
that bright companion is no more, and the record of those
pleasant days is even yet so mingled with regret, that I
scarcely find heart to enter on full details of our journeys,
and of the approaching hunting scenes in which he played
so leading a part! 
Leaving the Naboog valley about the middle of May,
we struck across a long and, at that season, dangerous
pass into Wurdwun; passing over nearly twenty miles of
snow, avalanches of which, in several places, went thund
ering down into the valley, and we had in consequence
to make several detours, and diverge from the track for
safety's sake; indeed, we ourselves made the track, as the
pass, with one exception, had not been traversed that
season! After a long and fatiguing march, we debouched into
the valley of Wurdwun, and pitched camp in the meadows
near the villages of "Unshun" and Mfiler Wurdwun.
Here we commenced our high-hill shooting. My journal
of that period is before me, full of "moving incidents by
flood and field," but from causes already mentioned, I
refrain from indenting too far on its contents. I may
venture, perhaps, on a few extracts, with the accompany
ing sketches of scenes encountered.
My companion — a far better sportsman than I ever
became — was by far the most successful, and obtained
numerous specimens of the snow bear, musk deer, and
barasingh stag. I was less so at this time, though — as
the extracts will show — doing my utmost to deserve
success. It was but seldom that we hunted in company,
perferring ordinarily each to take our own beat, and so
double our chance of sport, but we occasionally hunted
together. What wild scenes and adventures in the snow and lofty
slopes of those grand mountains I find recorded in my

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

17

journal! which, with the little passing sketches illustrat
ing them, serve to recall many a sublime aspect of nature
in the glacier or the forest, and many a tussle with the
wild denizens of those Alpine regions !
We met at the close of each day to our late dinner or
supper, during which the recital of mutual adventures
was not the least pleasant part of the feast, which, more
over, our voluntary toil on the mountains usually rendered
Apicean! Then the well earned sound sleep, to rise for
an early breakfast, and another day after the "Harput"
(bear) and "Hangloo" (stag) of Wurdwun! Oh those
pleasant days ; they return, alas ! no more ! The years —
"the dark brown years roll on, and bring no joy on their
wings" like to those youthful days! ....
But I will now turn to my journal for a few extracts
illustrative of our mountain life. I will give my first in
terview with "Ursa Major," as I find it recorded and
sketched in my journal.

9— THE WURDWUN MOUNTAINS..
"First interview with 'Ursa Major.'"

"30th May. — About an hour before sunset my shikari c

18 The Highlands of India. [Seotion l
"(hunter) gave the signal 'game in sight.' I accordingly
"joined him, and he pointed out two large brown bears
"on a projecting ledge of rock about 500 yards off. The
"ground was terribly steep, so I took off my shoes, and
"creeping along a very steep hillside, prepared to engage
"the enemy. The old shikari stuck his stick well into
"the ground as a rest for my feet, so leaning over the
"brow of the hill I took deliberate aim at the largest bear,
"which was fronting me, and fired. Too low! the bullet
"struck the rock at his feet, but the second bullet hit, as
"he started and turned away sharply. I seized my second
"gun and waited, expecting the bears either to retreat or
"charge; but as they continued quite quiet looking at me
"I fired again! upon which they both immediately charged
"straight down on us with right good will. They became
"hid from me by the intervening folds of the hill until
"[as I afterwards found] within about fifteen or twenty
"yards off they suddenly turned off sharp down into the
"ravine below, perhaps luckily for us, as we were on such
"steep, dangerous ground, where the kick of one's rifle was
"almost enough to send one rolling down hundreds of
"feet. The largest appeared heavily hit; so, having re-
" loaded, I was preparing to follow, as I believed I could
"hear them roaring in the snow cleft below me. The
"shikari, however, reported the ground too steep and
"difficult for the late hour, so I reluctantly gave up the
"pursuit." Thus ended my first contest with "Ursa
Major" on his native hills ! and I give the extract in ex-
tenso as a sample.
Many a merry meeting have I had since then with
friend "Barleycorn!" and the phases of our little "diffi
culties" have been various; and I have often observed
this trait in the conduct of the snow-bear, that, though
wounded — with his enemy right in front of him — he

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

19

hesitates either to seek safety in flight or else charge his
foe. I have known one with half-a-dozen gullets through
him wander about "promiscuouslike" twenty yards in
front of me, as if in a complete state of indecision! I
attribute this either to defective vision or to a naturally
irresolute nature. Seldom does the snow-bear charge at
all; and if he does so, hardly ever home! I have, how
ever, met with exceptions to this rule; and, indeed, on
this very same day —
on reaching camp — I
found that my com
panion, A., had shot
dead a fine snow-bear
that charged up to
within three paces of
him! The bear had
probably mistaken A.
for a native, whom
these bears are in
clined occasionally to
" bully" on meeting
them in the forests
and mountains; but,
as a rule, if one stands one's ground, few bears will ever
charge dangerously, though often making demonstration
of attack.
A. had returned to camp before nightfall, and as, on
this occasion, I was far up the mountain, and did not
return to dinner, and the night turned out pitch dark, he
had collected torches from the village to escort me over
the ravine to camp, where I arrived very late, and dead
beat. On comparing notes we found that we had together
seen thirty head of game that day (30th May). I find
that next day I met with that narrow escape of going
c 2

10— A.'s Tete-a-tete with a Bear.

20 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
down the snow cleft, narrated in a subsequent chapter.*
"On the lsl^ of June, whilst returning from high
"ground, I viewed a bear and two cubs across the Wurd-
"wun River. About sunset came upon a barasingh in
"low ground, stalked him, and regularly drove him into
"an island in the river, where I thought I must have him,
"but he took to the water and so escaped. I may here
"mention that at this season a few of the stags have still
"their horns on — perhaps one in twenty; — the hinds are
"still herded, but shortly after this resort to low grounds
"such as the islands of the river — to deposit their fawns.
"On the 6th June A. shot a stag which had just dropped
"his antlers, the buts being still raw. At this time, also,
"A. bagged several more bears and musk deer, and I
"missed and lost as many more."
"On the 2nd (being our old 'Gov's' birthday) we de-
"termined to hunt together. Went up the ' Goormoosil'
"mountain; but, owing to each giving the other the
"'complimentary' shot, managed to make a mess of it,
"and each lost a fine barasingh stag. Returned to camp
"awfully disgusted, and it required the 'hotch-potch' and
"a good stiff jorum of mulled port (broached in honour
"of the occasion) to console us."
On the 3rd A. brought in a bear and a musk-deer,
leaving another bear, which he had dropped at nightfall
with his very last bullet, dead in a ravine.
On the 4th June occurred an adventure I find I have
given in a subsequent chapter; but the preliminary
events leading up to it may as well here be extracted
from my journal, and they must form the very last of my
adventures here to be given on high-hill stalking.

* Chap. VI.— It will of course be obvious that this preliminary chap
ter was written subsequently to the rest of these sketches, as prelude
to the following chapters, which were written many years ago.

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

21

"6th June: Started early this morning, and climbed
"right to the top
"of the ' Saramor-
"gan' mountain,
"not less than
"15,000 or 16,000
"feet in elevation.
"Whilst near the
"top of the ridge,
"where I lost my
"bear on the 4th, I
"sighted a snow-
"bear, and marked
"him down to near
"a Steep isolated ll— Before the Battle.
«'rock which cropped out of the grassy slopes on which,
"in the after-
"noon, all sorts
"of game are
"generally to be
"found feeding at
"the edge of the
" precipitous forest
"adjacent. On to
"the top of this
"rock I climbed,
"but not seeing
"my bear, sup
posed him to
"have lain down to
"sleep somewhere 12-After the Batlle-
"near, so determined to wait till he should awake and
"show himself, as the ravine below was all but impractic-
"able. Whilst seated there on the 'look-out,' I sighted

88 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"the head and antlers of a barasingh asleep under a rock
"about 250 yards off; kept on the watch, till in about
"half an hour the barasingh rose, and presented a fair
"broadside shot ; I fired two shots without success.
"Whilst in the act of re-loading my rifle, the bear —
"having apparently been aroused by the firing-M3ame in
"sight close under me! I made a snap shot at him with
"my spare gun — which was handed to me by my shikari —
"and knocked him over. Having finished re-loading my
"rifle, I got another chance, and hit him again, almost
"stopping him. On rushing to the brow of the hill in
"pursuit — to stop him from the precipice — I found my
"shikari and spare-gun-carrier with sticks trying to keep
"him back. Just, however, as I reached the spot, I had
"the mortification of seeing my gentleman slip over the
"edge of the snow down the very place I lost my two
"bears two days before. I offered five rupees for the skin
"as he was probably dead before he reached the bottom
"of the 'kudd' (cliff), which was all but unnegotiable to
"any but an experienced cragsman." — Then occurred the
adventure narrated further on.*
A., meantime, had this day seen no less than eight
bears in the ravine behind our camp, at the village of
Unshun, one of which he had bagged.
On the 7th June we left the valley of Wurdwun, and
re-crossed the Pyhil-Kynjie pass into the Naboog valley.
On the road I got two capital chances at bears, who were
grazing down the "kudd " under the road side. As I had
been the unlucky one hitherto, I went down alone to en
deavour to bag one. Walking straight down the hill, I
got within 20 yards of one of them, but the barrels of my
rifle snapped fire! The snow had got down the grooves
of my rifle the previous day, and I had neglected to draw

Chapter VI.

Chapter 2.]

Cashmere.

23

the charges or discharge and reload my rifle. This served
as a caution to me for all the succeeding time of my
shooting trip, as on this occasion I was absolutely left
defenceless except for a hunting knife, the bear sitting
up and gazing at me at less than twenty yards distance!
Luckily he was a bear of a mild disposition; and having
stared at the apparition for a minute or two, he quietly
trotted off.
Arriving at Changos on Sunday, we halted there for
the day, and did not shoot. I recommend this to all
sportsmen travelling. After a few days of real toilsome
life, one realizes the fact that man requires a Sabbath —
that wise institution of the inspired lawgiver.

ADSHAH'S HOUSE AT CHANGOS.

I present a sketch taken at Changos of the sort of
pleasant summer-house, built over running water, in
which the better class of rural Cashmeries are wont to sit
out in the summer to enjoy the coolness of the air and
the freshness of the running stream. On arrival at the
city we subsequently observed more of these pleasant

24 The Highlands of India. [Section *¦
water-arbours — to coin a word — especially on the Taylbul
River, which flows into the north-west end of the Dhull
or city lake; and elsewhere about the environs of the city
are to be noticed alcoves and balconies covered with
foliage, overhanging the river Jhelum and various streams
and canals about the lake. This fondness for rural
pleasure and quiet enjoyment of the open air and sur
rounding nature, appeared to me a pleasing trait in the
character of the people.
My old shikari — Adshah of Changos — here left me
temporarily on leave to his home at this village, which
is included in the sketch presented.
The Ruins of Martund, already mentioned, are not far
from this beautiful village.

14—/ bit of Martund.

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 25

CHAPTER III.
The City of Roses and its environs — The Wooler Lake —
Allsoo, Bunlcote, and the Koh-i-hama — Bundipore —
TheLolab Valley — Black Bear Shooting — Return to
City — Sopur, Baramoola, and the Valley of the
Jhelum — The Ghost of a Bear — Oorie — Recross the
Pinjal — Temples near Baramoola — The Kdmrdj —
Farewell to the Jhelum.
HAVING arrived at Srinugger* by water on the 11th
June, we pitched our tent on the banks of the
"Sunk-i-kul" (or apple-tree) canal, which leads to the
"Drog-jun," the sluice-gate of the Dhull-lake — under a
splendid chenar tree, where, from our tent door, we could
plunge into ten feet of the pure, clear water of that
beautiful stream; every morning early we used to do so,
and enjoy a swim before breakfast.
"Many have told of Cashmere of old!" little is left for
modern travellers. I may, therefore, pass rapidly over
our life in the "City of Roses," delightful change though it
was after the hard work in the snow. I find noted in my
journal trips to various points of mterest near the city
and its environs ; and gliding about the rivers and lakes in
our boat — of course Lalla Rookh in hand — was no such
unpleasant change from the toils of high-hill shooting!
but I forbear to anticipate. I find recorded a visit to the
Takt-i-Suliman, whereupon stands one of the most
ancient and well preserved temples of the ancient Cash
mere architecture, commanding also a splendid view.
* Properly Siirya Nugger, City of the Sun, not /Srinugger (holy city)
as modernly termed.

86 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Here King Solomon is related by the Mahomedans to
have sat and gazed at the watery expanse of the primaeval
lake. Near this is the Peri-Mahal (Fairies' Palace), built
by the Emperor Akbar for a college; it is now a pictur
esque ruin on the slope of the hills to the east surrounding
the city-lake or Dhull.
The "Shalimar,"* "Nishat," and "Naseem" Gardens are
all points of attraction: situated on the margin of the
Dhull, they were celebrated from the times of the Moghul
court, and are alluded to by Bernier and others. They
have so often been described by travellers that they
scarcely need notice here, except to say that many a
pleasant "tiffin" did we enjoy in those umbrageous shades,
sketch books in hand; whence also returning after sunset,
with the flush of evening on the waters, let us fancy "the
nightingale's hymn from the isle of chenars," as we rowed
past it when the moonlight came! As a fact, however, the
nightingale does not visit India, and its oriental substi
tute — the bulbul — does not, I think, possess the faculty
of song.f Let that pass. The scene was sufficiently
picturesque and romantic without the help of adventitious
imaginings: the summer wind sighing through the sedges
of the lake; the flush of sunset on the grand lotus flowers
(nelumbium speciosum) which dot its surface, or, later in
the season, extrude their heads above it; the waving
grasses of its margin, and the moonlight flecking the
willow-margined banks of the reedy channels between
the gardens on its shores, were sufficiently suggestive of

* Perhaps an abbreviation of Sliali-il-imirat (Royal) gardens; or can it
be possible that the word "Shama" in any way enters into the com
position of this contested derivation? In which case the celebrated
garden would be the grove of nightingales! The lover of romance would
hope it might be so !
t The Shdma is the true Indian nightingale, and possesses power of
song fully equal to his European rival.

Chapter 3.]

Cashmere.

27

poetry and romance to justify the creation of the poet in
his Lalla Rookh: and as we smoked the fragrant weed,
reclining in our fast-gliding boat towards our tent be
neath the waterside chenar tree, I am not sure but what
we touched on that occasion as near the acme of content
ment as is allotted to man in this vale of tears !
Let me pass on to mention other points noted. I see
the Mosque of Zein-ul-aboodeen, Akbar Shah's Bridge;
the Eedgarh; the Jumma Mus-
jid; the Fort of Hari-Parvat on
the K6h-i-Maran (Hill of Ser
pents); and other points of in
terest were visited, and figure
in our journals, many of them
as sketches. This was anterior w~The Jumma MusJid-
to the time of the photographers — those natural enemies
of the landscape artist — who have since invaded the valley.
I will not, however, here attempt further to describe those
interesting places. The beautiful photographic views of
Cashmere and the Himalayas, since produced, have quite
put into the shade any little fugitive sketches made by
the passing traveller of the days I write of. *

16— Fort of Hari-Parvat, on the Koh-i-Maran (Hill of Serpents)

* I would especially refer the reader who is interested in the scenery
of Cashmere to the studio of Messrs. Bourne and Shepherd, the well
known Indian photographers, whose beautiful reproductions, especially
of mountain horizons, eclipse anything I have seen even in Europe, and
quite put one out of conceit with one's own minor efforts.

28 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
On one glorious afternoon (15th June, 1851) I see we
played on the plain of the Eedgarh the first game of
cricket — a single wicket match — ever seen in the vale of
Cashmere: we had brought up
with us gear for the express
purpose. After this exercise
we went, later in the day,
through the tender mercies of
r <--=- -J!J-^-..=r- the " hummaum" or steam bath,
17— The Eedgarh (15th June, 1851). i- r x i • .-, ¦•
which oriental institution is
not, as far as I know, except at Peshawer and perhaps
Delhi, found in any other Indian city. It is a strictly
Mahomedan institution, and was probably introduced
into Cashmere from Persia.
The "Poplar Walk" was an interesting and shady resort
near our tent, whose only drawback is that it leads from
"nothing to nowhere." Its perspective is well rendered
by photographs, as well as the foliage of the vines climb
ing the poplars, in most graceful and picturesque festoons
— the classic marriage of the Vine and Poplar!
The canals or water streets of the city might also be
mentioned, where the boat passes under bridges, and
houses rich in wood carving of the most interesting
character, leading into the very heart of the city, and
close up to the celebrated shawl merchants of Srinugger,
who reside near their brinks. All these points, and many
more, were visited by us under pleasant circumstances
during our sojourn in the "City of Roses."
At this time military pageants were the fashion at
Srinugger. An expedition to reduce Chilas, where a
refractory feudatory was in rebellion, was in contemplation
by the Maharajah Golaub Sing, and reviews of troops
were in consequence of almost daily occurrence. 5000
regulars, with near 10,000 irregulars and followers,

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 29
marched towards the north-west frontier. Subsequently
I saw a good deal of these troops, having camped amongst
them several days. I had even designed to accompany
the expedition, but was prevented doing so by political
hindrances. On the 17th we partook of the hospitality of old Golaub
Sing, at a grand dinner and nautch at the Sher-Ghurrie
— the regal residence — given in honour of the heir ap
parent, Prince Runbeer Sing. Next morning, 18th June,
we weighed anchor for the Wooler Lake, where we arrived
the same evening.

°z- *~*~=-~~-~ — ' =~s=— ¦-'- = ¦" "i

Miir - :mmm
ppp&E*--

¦jjgjjj '3311

m^i ;=-c. —s£--_ ~_:

-=—___ — -^^r^^-^-^s^^K

t— -— — ^--

=Sye*ti-. = :.Mj

18— SUNSET ON THE WOOLER LAKE.

On this occasion we circumnavigated the Wooler Lake,
a fine sheet of water perhaps forty miles in circumference;
a more full description of which will be given further on.
We touched at the Lank Island, Bunkote, Bundipore,
and at Allsoo; thence intending to shoot in the Koh-i-
hama. At all these points we landed and tried the
shooting. From Allsoo we left our boats, and made a
flying trip into the Lolab valley. Here — and afterwards
again at Sopur, on renewing our voyage down the river —
we found portions of Golaub Sing's army, which was
marching in two or more divisions towards Chilas.

19— BLACK BEAR SHOOTING.

W-CITY AND LAKE OF CASHMERE.

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 31
At Allsoo we pitched our tent (literally) in the upper
story of a large empty house, which we made our head
quarters for black* bear shooting. These animals were
beginning to resort to the mulberry groves, although the
fruit was at this date scarcely ripe enough for their taste.
A. managed, however, to obtain two or three; and then,
after a little more cruising about the lake and its shore,
chiefly for the sake of the beautiful scenery — of which
we took numerous sketches — we returned to the city of
Srinugger. We set up our tent under our old chenar tree
on the banks of the Dhull Nuddie, and recommenced
our explorations of the city and its environs; and here, I
think, a few extracts from my journal may serve to eke
out the descriptions given in my last chapter.
"June 28th: Rowed up the 'Taylbul' river to the
"bridge, and there had dinner under the tree on which a
"plate with an inscription of the three travellers Hugel,
"Henderson, and Vigne appears. The following is the
"inscription: — "Three travellers,
Baron Von Hitoel, from Jummoo,
John Henderson, from Ladak,
Godfrey Thos. Vigne, from Iskardo,
who met in Srinugger on the 18th Nov. , 1835,
have caused the names of those Europeans
who had previously visited the 'Vale of Cashmere,1
to be hereon engraved,
'Bernier, 1663,
Forster, 1786,
Moorcroft, Guthrie, Trebeck, 1823,
Jacquemont, 1831,
Wolff, 1832,
of these two only lived to return to Europe. ' "
* The black bear is the ursus labiatus of naturalists ; it has the horse
shoe mark on the breast. The brown bear is the ursus isabellinus. It
varies in colour from dark brown approaching black to light brown al
most white. I myself believe in a third variety — a large brown forest
bear, perhaps ursus Tlabetanus — a fierce variety. I have heard of —
even, I believe, seen — at least one specimen of ursus labiatus without the
horse-shoe collar mark, but the general opinion points to two varieties
only, modified by locality. This is perhaps the correct opinion,

32 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"Re-embarking in our boat we retraced our voyage
"(Lalla Rookh in hand) down the lovely stream, and
"through the lotus-studded lakes, where, settling down
"amongst the sedges, we noticed many wild fowl and water
"birds; but our guns lay mostly idle. We returned to
"supper after dark by way of Akbar's Bridge and the
"floating gardens." These have often been described;
they are formed by the long sedges being interwoven into
a mat, earth being superimposed thereupon, and the stalks
finally cut under water, thus releasmg them from the
bottom of the lake: they are usually about twenty by
twelve yards in size. A dishonest Cashmerie will some
times tow his neighbour's garden away from its moorings
and appropriate its fruits: cucurbitaceous fruits and vege
tables, and a fine description of grape is grown on them.
I have often landed on one — paid my four annas (6d.) —
and eaten as many grapes as I chose.
•I think the various points of interest in the city are
best described by illustrations, taken from the original
sketches made on the spot, with which my journal is
thickly studded; and allusions to many of them will be
found in the Historical Sketch at the end of this Section.

21— TAKT-I-SUUMAN, CASHMERE.
(From the river Jhelum. )

We renewed our voyage down the Jhelum on the 1st
July, skirting the eastern margin of the Wooler Lake-

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 33
At Sopur we found a division of Golaub Sing's army en
camped. We proceeded down stream to Baramoola, and
there, finally leaving our boats; marched leisurely along
the banks of the river to Oorie. The Jhelum is here a
turbulent mountain stream, and its banks present some
very picturesque points of view. We shot our way along;
and here I may recount a cur
ious incident, where I beheld
the only ghost it has fallen to
my lot to encounter in life —
the ghost of a bear! We were
sitting at our mid-day breakfast
on the banks of a clear pool of 22-Akbar shah's Bridge.
water in the forest when I distinctly seemed to see a large
bear deliberately walk down to the water's edge and drink.
I caught up my gun and gave the alarm! but no bear was
there, or even could have been, as we found no traces!
This "visitation" led me to reflect whether after all bear
shooting was not rather a cruel sport, and unjust to the
inferior animals; but when I reflected on the aggressive
and mischievous character of the Cashmere bear, and
how he harries the peasants' gardens and fields, and
steals his grain, fruit, and even cattle and sheep some
times under pressure of hunger, I made up my mind that
one was quite justified in destroying him. This ghostly
visitation, therefore, was relegated to the limbo of imagi
nation, and was of course a mere optical illusion, the only
one I ever have experienced in life; very distinct and
life-like it was, and led me to understand how a belief in
the actuality of ghosts might arise in minds given to
supernatural broodings. Many have lived to pray in
after life for visions of departed friends; but, alas! they
come no more from that bourne whence no traveller
returns! ....... D

23— Ruins near Baramoola.

34 The Highlands of India. [S"°*iok i.
There are some interesting ruins of temples buried in
the woods near Baramoola along this route, interlaced
with knarled roots of creepers and forest trees centuries
old, near which
m

we halted and
took sketches,
to which my
subsequent reading and in
vestigations on
this subject
have given me
the clue; but at
the time I write
of, I only viewed
them under
their picturesque aspects. — perhaps the most attractive
after all, as the assigning of such wild, weird structures
to an actual era seems robbing them of their romance.
These ruins might be the abode of Naga princes, robber
chiefs, or fabled pythons.* They do, in fact, shelter vari
ous creatures of the night, whose aeries and lairs can be
seen amidst the crumbling fragments and tangled jungle.
Making the most of the few days we had still to pass
together, we at length turned out of the gorge of the
Jhelum at Oorie; thence we recrossed the Pinjal near
the Poonch Pass on the 7th July. About this date I
parted with my dear companion and brother A. I
watched his departing figure as he strode far away down
the slopes of the Pinjal near Poonch; and this was the
last I ever saw of that valued friend and comrade of my
* It is a fact that the ancient King Damoodara II. is fabled to have
become a serpent, and in this form to roam the solitudes of the mountains,
in this district especially !

Chapter 3.]

Cashmere.

35

youth. His early loss in the very prime of life and man
hood I still deplore. ....

I never felt more melancholy in my life than during my
solitary march of eighteen miles back across the Pinjal,

during which I
recollect I pass
ed several beau
tiful cascades,
on the margin of
which I rested
for a space. A.
also had made
a long march,
so that at least
thirty-five miles
of wild moun
tain land lay
between us that
nightfall. The
markhore (ser
pent eater) goat
is found on these
mountains here
abouts, but I
made no effort
at this time to hunt them, I made my way into the
western district of the valley — the "Kamraj," as it is
termed — where the cedars come feathering down into
mossy dells from the slopes of the Pinjal; and I may,
perhaps, conveniently at this place introduce sketches
and a few notes descriptive of several points of interest
in this section of the valley; some of them visited by me
at this time, others at a later period. I made several
d2

^er^T^gggl fW *t lrr*vr
24r— Waterfall, near Poonch.

36

The Highlands of India. [Section I.

sketches of the
rapids of the
Jhelum, one of
which I give, as
illustrative of
the fine scenery
along this river
after its leaving
the valley pro
per. Having re-
embarked on
my boats at
Baramoola I
proceeded up
stream,andsoonturned up the
Pahroo river
just below So
pur, a large trib
utary of the
Jhelum which emerges in several branches from the
mountains of Durawur. In its course it threads many
lovely glades and meadows of the K&mraj. Its banks are
fringed with most beautiful woods and orchards, at this
season haunted by the mountain bears, who descend in
search of fruit especially the mulberry. Amidst these
woods — leaving my boats, and taking advantage of a full
moon — I wandered many evenings, occasionally all night,
in search of the "picturesque" and "Old John Barleycorn."
How well I recall the enjoyment of those calm night
scenes! tho wind whispering in the tree tops; the hoot of
the lonely owl in the deep forest; the moonlight fleckino-
the turf beneath the lofty fruit trees, groves of which

-Rapids of the Jhelum.

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 37
dot the terre-plein, here usually fringed by cedars feather
ing down from the edge of the deep woods: the calm
majesty of night, in which the "wandering moon" showed
clearly as she rose at midnight to the zenith; the
thoughts half serious, half jocund, which throng the mind
under the influence of the fair night scene, — "I hear a
"voice thou can'st not hear." The voice maybe of one's
"alter ego," amidst the whispers of the night!
On the upper waters of this beautiful stream, which
is, accordmg to locality, diversely named Kanimil,
Lolab, etc., there are many interesting features ; amongst
them "Suheyum" — the burning ground — a sacred resort;
"Muchipoora," where is a remarkable hill, and a small
lake on which is found an island covered with trees,
which, under a strong wind, cause the island to rock
about, and even sail to shore! and "Taragaom," the
ruined stronghold of the great old clan of Chak, Chukk,
or (perhaps) "Ch6gatai," so celebrated in Cashmere
history.* The peaks of "Sela," also on the pass leading
to Durawur, are remarkable.
Referring to my journal I find the villages of "Insu,"
"Kulturuth," "Gounpoora," "Bamma-hama," all men
tioned as "bear haunted." I find such entries as —
"At 'Isnaidpoora' tried the hills for a bear without
"success; scenery lovely. To-day (13th July), full moon;
"shortly after sunset started after bears. Moonlight
"glorious; and I wandered about the mulberry groves
"and orchards all night. Got a shot at a bear, who im-
" mediately charged most savagely, but was easily turned
"by a second shot. I don't think he was touched, as
"night shooting is rather difficult at first." Again: (15th)
"When the moon rose, went across the river and tried
* See page 44, also Historical Sketch at end of this Section.

38 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"the mulberry groves, etc.; having a large white sight*
"on my guns shot one bear through the body, who, in
stead of charging, savagely attacked his comrade. This
"bear escaped for the moment, but was found dead next
"day." Such extracts depict scenes of sporting life, but give a
very inadequate idea of the picturesque aspects. A
brilliant moon lighting up the hills and glades of a
charming woodland country; the gleam of stars upon the
river; the rippling of water, and the soft whispers of the
night; hours of calm observation of nature in repose; "a
midsummer's night dream" in fact, varied, however, with
the occasional intrusion of the "spiritual enemy" in the
form of "Ursa Major." Such features but feebly repre
sent the scenes passed through. I could have sometimes
wished a fairer intruder than friend "Barleycorn," yet
never can I forget those moonlit nights amidst the sum
mer woods of the "Kamraj."
I find an extract of original poetry, which appeared
some years later in, I think, the Lahore Chronicle of those
days, which so well describes the characteristic phases of
the course of the river Jhelum, Vetasta, or Hydaspes of
fair Cashmere, that I make bold to introduce it as a fit
ting farewell. TO THE JHELUM.
Oh ! merrily the river wanders in the gladsome May time
Of his life, ere yet the morning has deepened into day, —
No cloud to cast a shadow on the sunshine of his playtime,
No rock to rough his smoothness as he ripples on his way.
Oh ! merrily the river flows adown the sunny valley ;
The golden sand beneath his feet, the laughing sky above him,
* For night shooting some sportsmen put large wax and chalk sights —
sometimes tipped with phosphorus — on their gun barrels, but I myself
always found a broad bit of white tape tied round the muzzle amply
suffice for a rough shot in the moonlight.

Chapter 3.] Cashmere. 39
He deems not youth is fleeting, nor begrudges time to dally
In the mossy nooks he loves with the dragon flies that love him.
For his loves — his loves are many. Awhile he wayward lingers
To plait the water-lily's hair and hide among its mazes,
A moment spares to woo the willow, kiss her dainty fingers,
Then laughs goodbye, and hastens to play truant with the daisies.
Where Oorie's cliffs stand sentinel in solitary sadness
I saw the river once again — the same, yet not the same.
I had seen him in his cradle, when every look spoke gladness,
1 had known him in his childhood, now I knew him but by name.
For no more I saw the sunny brow, where laughter seemed to twinkle
In every fugitive ripple that dimpled to the wind.
Now care had graven many a line, and sorrow many a wrinkle,
And every passing cloud, methought, had left its gloom behind.
With vengeance in his hollow voice he hurls a wild defiance
To rocks that fret him as he swirls in maddened surges past,
But a sad, soft something lurks beneath that haughty self-reliance,
Like the wild wail the seaman hears in the fury of the blast.
He flings his weary arms aloft. In truth he is a-weary
Of this life that seems unending, this battle never won :
And the day that closes round him is overcast and dreary,
And the morrow will be but another toilsome strife begun.
But ere I turned me from the bank I marked a sunbeam quiver
(Like a guardian angel) down a fir tree's over-arching bough ;
It lit a rainbow in the cloud of spray upon the river,
And a smile of happy memories stole o'er his careworn brow.
Then again I knew him. For in every tint some old reflection
Of ruddy snows, or morning clouds, or emerald grass was peeping,
That had sunk into his soul, and these were but the recollection,
The awakening of forgotten joys, of joys not dead but sleeping.
Thus memory flings round after years the glamour of her roses,
And wakes amid Life's darkest days the light of happier hours :
She wafts across the misty Past the breath of childhood's posies,
And weaves in winter's hoary locks a chaplet of spring flowers.*

* I would ask the anonymous author to pardon this excerpt, should
he ever happen to recognise his happy effort.

40 The Highlands of India. [Section I.

CHAPTER IV.
A Summer's Night in Cashmere — Bear Shooting in the
Mulberry Groves — Sopur — Fishing in the Wooler
Lake — Sailing up the River Jhelum — Life & Legends
in the City of Roses.
AFTER a glorious spring amongst the snowy mountains
and forests, and wild grassy slopes of Wurdwun and
the K6h-i-hama — whilst wandering in the green woods
and pastures of the Cashmere valley — I found myself
one summer's day amidst the shady groves of Kandikaj.
This sylvan nook, situated in the Kamraj or western
province of the valley, formed part of the principality of
the ancient "Chak" tribe, the ruins of whose stronghold,
Taragaom, are to be found close at hand in the adjacent
hills. It is now quite a wilderness of walnut, mulberry,
and other fruit trees, mixed with pines, oaks, and the
mountain cedar. It is consequently a great resort of
that fructivorous animal, the bear of Cashmere.. The
surrounding mountains are full of them, both black and
brown. They descend at night into the groves for the.
fruit. Cashmere may, in fact, be termed the head-quarters
of the genus Ursus.
Having employed the day in reconnoitring the ground,
and otherwise preparing for a hunt, as soon as the evening
star twinkled in the tree tops I sallied forth, rifle in hand,
in search of the hostile race of bruin. By the time I
reached my ground the moon was riding high in the
heavens, and the glorious calm of a midsummer's night
invested nature. The deep hush of the woods was only
broken by the rustling of the night wind in the trees, or
the tinkle of streamlets creeping through the woodlands

Ss*

&WJfe

SW^i^3

/) Sear charging (pages 41-2),
IV.— BEAR SHOOTING BY MOONLIGHT.

Chapter 4.] Cashmere. 41
and ever and anon the hoot of the great horned owl
booming on the silence of night.
For hours I wandered in the shadows and "glimpses of
the moon," occasionally pausing to listen as the crackling
footfall announced a bear retiring from his favourite tree,
and escaping from the approach of man, to his homo
in the forest or the mountain. The mulberries were
ripening, and the bears were positively swarming hi tho
thickets. The black variety ascends trees for the fruit,
but the brown species, with very rare exceptions, are
content to wander beneath the trees and pick up the
fallen fruit.
About midnight a large brown bear unexpectedly
charged upon me. Now, steady! Covering him with
my rifle as he approached, I expected to see him turn-
as nineteen out of every twenty will do, according to my
experience, if one stands one's ground — but on he came,
straight at me; twenty — fifteen — ten paces between us.
I confess I had not nerve to let him approach quite close,
when bears usually (as I had heard), but not always, rise
on their hind legs, presenting an easy shot. I fired both
barrels, and rolled him over in his track like a rabbit,
and the next moment — as the smoke cleared — I had the
high satisfaction of seeing my friend lying stone dead
upon the«ward!
"Shabash [well done], Sahib!" cried my only com
panion, a young hunter of the Trahul Pergunnah, in the
excitement of the moment patting me on the back, and
almost hugging me with joy. The truth was, this young
fellow had fired my spare gun into the tree tops, yards
over the advancing foe, and was delighted to see him go
down so suddenly, as these forest bears are sometimes
savage fellows, quite different from the poor, peaceable
snow-bears of the mountains: to say truth, I was glad to

42 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
get this fellow off my hands so neatly. Both bullets had
taken fatal effect, one cutting the jugular vein in the neck
— hence the sudden extinction of an animal often requir
ing a "deal of killing."* I have, in fact, known one go off
as if untouched, and run for several hundred yards, with
a bullet through the heart. I was ultimately obliged to
discharge the young hunter above-mentioned, summarily,
for this same trick of losing his head and firing my spare
gun at game without my orders. He will be alluded to
again, further on, in Chapter VI. At that time I always
carried pistols in my belt, a precaution I afterwards
scorned, as experience soon convinced me that to the
steady sportsman there is little real danger in bear shoot
ing. I will not deny, however, that at first, amidst the
shades of night, the heart may move faster than wont as
one approaches the "old hairy one" up his tree, and, in
fact, it may be months before the nerves quite harden to
the sport.
In the autumn of this same year I again found myself
amongst my old friends in the walnut trees, when my
only feeling has been one of unmitigated mirth, as I have
more than once stood under a tree on which "old John
Barleycorn" was munching his supper of juicy nuts. I
have actually stood under a bear, who, totally unconscious
of a "stranger's" presence, was dropping the shells of his
walnuts on my head! The bear gathers the bough on
which are the nuts toward him with his forearm, munches
up several, and, as above stated, expels the sheila Thus
situated, I have sometimes, from suppressed laughter,
been scarcely able to hold my rifle straight. But I have,
* This was a very large brown forest bear, with so ragged a coat as to
render his skin useless; he may perhaps have become carnivorous, as
many of them do, hence his mangy fur, — his head, however, is now in
my hall.

Chapter 4.] Cashmere, 43
on the whole, been singularly successful in night shooting
— not the highest form of sport, perhaps, but sufficiently
exciting to an indifferent shot like myself. But I must
not further anticipate. Before morning I fired again at
two black bears feeding in this "leafy wilderness," but
without success. As the day was breaking I regained my
camp. Before leaving this ground I shot one other bear,
who, on being wounded, savagely attacked his companion,
not perceiving from whence the "winged death" came
upon him.
I was joined next day by an old friend and schoolfellow,
S., who was crossing the mountains from the Lolab valley.
He had, with a companion, rigged out a sailing boat* —
now on the Wooler lake — at whose launch a few weeks
before I had myself assisted; my friend now kindly invited
me to join his party for a cruise. My acceptance of this
led to a companionship for the rest of the season, and
right glad was I to join so pleasant a party. So now, my
merry men all, this is enough bear shooting for the pre
sent. This day pack up, for to-morrow we leave the
bowers of Kandikaj! We will glide down the clear
waters of the Pahroo — river of the mountains — and dis
port ourselves awhile on the blue Wooler lake.
I had taken the boats as high up the stream as possible,
and, the river having fallen considerably during the three
days I had been engaged in hunting, we experienced the
greatest difficulty in making a passage for them over the
shallows. By artificial channels, however, and removing
boulders, we at length succeeded in extricating the boats.

* This boat had been built by my friends, the "Lancers," by cleating
together two of the native canoes, with a deck and false keel ; and was
rigged with gear brought for the purpose from the plains of India. The
sketches will convey an idea of its general appearance. Sailing boats are
not found on the lakes of Cashmere, being considered dangerous in high
wind.

44 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
At length, having got fairly under way on the beautiful
stream, we enjoyed the delightful sylvan scenery through
which, on both banks, we passed; and so, gliding past
rural villages, mulberry gardens, and meadows spangled
with flowers, we arrived in due time at Sopur, on the
Wooler lake. Here we found our sailing boat, the Royal
Harput, at anchor, and duly embarked.

26-BRIDGE OF SOPUR IN THE KAMRAJ.
At Sopur the River Jhelum — disembogueing from the
lake — glides away to Baramoola, there commencing its
headlong course towards the plains of the Punjaub.
Sopur has for ages been remarkable in Cashmere story.
Here was the throne often contended for by rival factions
— by Rajpoot, Toork, Moghul, or Tatar — more often by
native clans warring with each other. It was here that
in the year 1492 occurred the memorable defeat of the
Chaks, in which their great chieftain, Shumsoodeen, was
taken prisoner. The Chaks were in arms for the Pre
tender, Futtah Shah, and the army of the legitimate
king, Mohomed Shah, had taken and destroyed their
stronghold of Taragaom in the Kamraj, and was encamped

Chapter 4.] Cashmere. 45
on the banks of the river at Sopur. The gallant chief,
burning for vengeance, collected a party of horse and de
termined to beat up the enemy's quarters. The attack,
however, was not unexpected, and the bridge over the
Jhelum at this point had been destroyed by the king's
orders. In the dead of night the Chaks swam the river
and fell on the royal camp. They were warmly received.
A sanguinary conflict ensued; which, in spite of desperate

a— VIEW ON THE WOOLER LAKE.
efforts, terminated in the repulse of the Chaks, who fled
towards the mountains with the loss of their great
chieftain, who was taken prisoner, as is related in a
couplet often met with in Cashmere legends. It may be
thus freely rendered —
"Shumsoodeen Chuk, with sticks and with stones,
Of sixty bold Rehnas brake all the bones. ''
The Re'hnas and Magreys being two of the allied hostile
tribes into whose hands the Dardoo chief had fallen.
Anchored off this classic spot, a few days passed de
lightfully in fishing, sailing on the lake, and landing here
and there on its picturesque shores. We visited the Lank
Island, the occasional retreat of Zein-ul-aboodeen (or

jfi The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Boodshah)— the Great King as he is emphatically termed
—who, about the year A.D. 1443 built it, with its mosque
and summer-house, on the site of an ancient temple,
whose summit was at that time visible above the waters
of the Wooler lake. This island, of inconsiderable extent,
is the only one which breaks the expanse of the lake,
which may be estimated at about forty miles in circum
ference, and it is much increased in times of flood, when,
in fact, much of the swampy margin on the south and
south-east sides becomes converted into a lake. On the
north and north-west sides the lofty mountains of the
K6h-i-hama lock it in abruptly. A few villages, how
ever, occupy the more fertile ravines and straths. Here
the margin recedes in summer, and a fringe of flags and
rushes finds place.
The circumstance of submerged edifices is common in
Cashmere, and met with even at the present day, notably
in the Manasbul lake, where just such a temple summit
extrudes itself from the surface of the water, evidencing
change of level and subsidence; and there can be no
doubt that the Wooler now rolls over many a fair city
and fertile field, engulphed long since in its oozy depths.
In fact, the ancient chronicle of Cashmere — the Raja
Taringini — relates that the vast city of Ashnadut Nugger
which once occupied the site of part of this lake was sub
merged in the time of King "Sundersen." The fable
states that this king and his court were "wicked in the
extreme," until the ground cried aloud to God "for their
destruction" (literally). The city was accordingly over
whelmed by water. There is no great depth of water in
this lake, probably not much over fifty feet in its deepest
parts, except in certain spots the foci or craters of the
volcanic catastrophes, at which the fables and legends of
Cashmere annals probably point.

Chapter 4.]

Cashmere.

47

28— The Singhira,
or Water-nut.

Occasional violent gusts of wind come rushing down
the mountain ravines on its north-east margin, and at
such times it is astonishing how quickly the "sea" gets
up. Often had we to run for the water
lilies and shallows of the lake — abound
ing in weeds and water-nuts* — for
safety, as there the water was generally
smooth and calm, the water foliage
acting as a breakwater.
The fishing in this lake near the
Bridge of Sopur is fair. The mahaseer
and fine specimens of the black-spotted
so-called Himalayan trout (I believe a
variety of the ceprinidce) being here
often taken with the fly, or better still
the spinning bait or spoon.
It was interesting to observe the method adopted by
the native fishermen in setting their night lines. At
nightfall the fisherman, rowing out into the middle of
the lake, looks keenly around him, takes three points
with the eye, at the intersection of which he sinks one of
his lines in, say, thirty feet of water. These lines are
from sixty to one hundred feet in length, with runners
about six feet apart, on which are small live bait slightly
hooked through the nose and allowed to play naturally.
He sinks out of sight several lines thus in order to pre
vent their being discovered and raised by rival practit
ioners. In the morning he rows out again, and seldom
fails in grappling his lines at the first or second cast, and
is generally rewarded with a dozen or so of fine fish.
After ample cruises on this beautiful lake, we, at length
taking advantage of a fair wind, sailed into the river

* The Singhara or edible water nut is a product of considerable traffic
in Cashmere.

48 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Jhelum, and anchored for the night at the mosquito-
ridden village of Alumnoor, near its junction with the
lake.

W—THE VILLAGE OF ALUMNOOR.

Next day, the breeze freshening into a gale, we ran up
the river to the city. Passing the weedy marish lands of
the Jhelum and Sinde rivers, rich pastures and gardens,

; "5

'¦'¦'''¦' 1

1

SAILING UP THE RIVER JHELUM IN A STORM.

Chapter 4.]

Cashmere.

49

and towns buried in the deep foliage of the magnificent
chenar (plane tree), the pride of the Cashmere valley.
Some of the finest grazing land in India is to be seen
along the banks of this river, on either side, and it could
not but occur to me what magnificent herds of cattle
might here be raised; but of course a Hindoo Govern
ment would regard as the greatest of crimes any such
project; in fact, cow killing in Cashmere is punished as
a worse crime than homicide ! Travellers to Cashmere in
those days — entering the
valley by the Shupeyon
route — will perhaps remem
ber the skeleton of a man
hanging in rusty chains
from a prominent bough of
the first large tree which
met the eye on emerging
from the Heerpore pass.
That wretch was hanged for
vaccicide ! We were re
minded of that ghastly sight
by another still more grue
some : the skeleton of a par
ricide in a cage on the bank
of the river just below the city; the bones rattling in the
wind, and crows perched on the gibbet above — a terrible
example of Maharajah Golaub Sing's Draconian laws!
As we reached the city we found hundreds of people
collected on the banks gazing at the boat — a novelty to
the inhabitants — as sailing boats are not found on the
river and lakes of Cashmere.
The City! Life in the City of Roses! How shall I
describe the lotus-eating, water-gipsy kind of life, on the
pleasant lakes which encircle the fair city and its suburbs E

Doom of a Parricide.

50 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
the glassy mere, the "garden-margined" Dhull; the whis
pering sedges; the summer sunsets; and the "cool, shining
walks" beneath the merry moonlight?
Let poets sing of such ! Be it mine to unfold the grim
history of the Past, and to evoke from their forgotten
graves the shadows of the antique kings, the fabulous
genii of the place, and the devastating Spectres of the
Serpent Gods!

m

•' ET" JB—fcii— _i iL"*" _LL_L T_
3i— BRIDGE AT BARAMOOLA.

,. «m

V.— HINDOO PICTURE EMBLEMATIC OF THE DRAINING OF THE CASHMERE VALLEY.

Chapter 5.] Cashmere. 51

CHAPTER V
Sketch of the Ancient Hindoo Fables of Cashmere, derived
from a Persian Manuscript or Translation of the
"Raja Taringini," the Ancient Sanscrit Chror.iicle
of the Country.
THE following epitome of the Hindoo Annals of Cash
mere is derived from a Persian translation (or
annotation) of the Raja Taringini; but it is overlaid with
Mahomedan embellishments scarcely to be found in that
ancient chronicle, which is in Sanscrit. After the Mosaic
chronicles it is one of the oldest histories in the world
extant. "Kashyp" or "Kashiapa" is called "Kush" or "Kushef"
by the Mahomedans, who name him as grandson of Ham.
The whole subject of the drainage of Cashmere, from
coincidence in the chronology — needless to enter on. here
— tends to point to the Mosaic deluge. Without further
preface, however, I now proceed to present a sketch of
the ancient fabulous history gathered by me during my
wanderings in the Valley of Cashmere.
In the days when Kashiapa, of the seed of Brahma,
dwelt at Bhimbur, Cashmere was not. In its site was a
vast lake fed by the melted snows and springs of the sur
rounding mountains, in whose icy caverns Juldeva the
water god, who preyed upon mankind, had lurked from
primeval times.
In the rugged mountains surrounding this dreary sea,
Suttee, the consort of the destroyer Siva, enjoyed a soli
tary reign, roving amidst craggy precipices and forests
gloomy with spectral horror; her chief dwelling place,
however, being amidst the everlasting snows of the
e2

52 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
mountain Hamunchil, overlooking her own peculiar lake,
hence called "Sutteesir," the Lake of Suttee, where it is
believed her glorious form may be seen to the present
day, "glowing like crystal," by the pilgrim to the Holy
Lake of Gungabul, or the hunter who wanders' near its
wild precipices.
The desolation of the land, however, caused by the
cruelties of Juldeva, touched the charitable heart of
Kashiapa, who forthwith came to Heerpore, on the bor
ders of the lake. Establishing himself on a sacred
pinnacle, he lived there in pious abstraction one thousand
years; at the close of which period his prayer "cleft the
mark" (literally), and the mighty Brahma lent his assist
ance to destroy the water god. At the expiration of one
hundred years, however, the Dcemon was still at large,
having taken refuge in the deep recesses of his lake.
Vishnu, the Preserver, then suggested that the lake
should be drained, which, with his assistance, was effected
by Kashiapa; and the waters escaping through the Bara
moola Pass, Juldeva was exposed to view, seized, and
overwhelmed for ever by Suttee beneath the rock of the
Hari Parvat (see illustration).
Standing on the summit of his sacred mount, with the
mundane germ within his grasp, Kashiapa the divine is
fabled to have contemplated with ecstacy the glory of
his kingdom, snatched from the waters of desolation. He
beheld the glittering peaks of Himaleh lit up by the
splendor of the sun sinking behind Baramoola, the scene
of his labors, whilst the waters of a thousand streams
leaping from the hills in cascades caught the fleeting
glory; he cast down the mundane egg, and from its lum
inous core gushed forth the Fountain of Martund, sacred
to the Sun God. In after years, hard by this hallowed
spot, shall arise the noble Temple of the Sun, work

Chapter 5.] Cashmere. 53
worthy of his descendants, worthy of the great Lunar
race by whom constructed.
But leaving fable we approach a quasi-historical fact,
and must view Kashiapa in his character of a patriarch
and lawgiver (3000 b.c). His first care was to intro
duce inhabitants into the newly created valley, then first
called "Kashyp-mur" — the dwelling of Kashiapa — who,
being all of pure race, at first dwelt in patriarchal sim
plicity, and the Vale of Cashmere at this period is fabled
to have realised the glories of the golden age.
A noble valley not less than eighty miles in length and
twenty-five in breadth, at a general elevation of six
thousand feet above the sea; its climate tempered in
summer by the cool breezes from the snowy peaks of its
surrounding mountains, with a rich alluvial soil, the gift
of its lacustrine origin — bright with the waters of a thou
sand fertilizing streams and fountains, and balmy with
the odours of groves and flowers indigenous to the soil —
forms no sterile cradle for a new race called forth from
the barren steppes beyond the surrounding ridges.
From the chill plateaux of Deotsuh, Thibet, and Zan-
skur, from the sandy wilds of the Punjaub, the favored
people of Kashiapa flocked across the passes of the
Hindoo Caucasus and the Pir Pinjal unto the fair valley
to which they had been called.
Soon, however, was the lawgiver's help required. The
foolish race of Adam, not content with the fair fields of
plenty — the land of milk and honey vouchsafed to them
for a dwelling — clamored amongst themselves, till Kash
iapa was fain to apply to the Raja of Jummoo of the
mountain for a king for his unruly people. This warrior,
however, was soon killed in the wars of the successors of
the great Rama in Hindosthan.
After this, again, fifty-two nameless Princes of the
Koraus or Solar race reigned 1266 years; in all, 1919

54 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
years elapse until we find King Ogregund (or Gonerda)
emerge from the obscurity of antiquity — the first known
sovereign of Cashmere — and he also is stated to have
perished on the banks of the distant Jumna at the hand
of Balarama, brother of Krishna, in the wars of the Koraus
and Pandaus, a fate shared by his son Damoodara, fight
ing for the melancholy Yudishtir and for Arjuna of the
Sounding Bow, but his posterity reigned in the land 655
years (1400 B.c).
Again a line of thirty-five nameless princes — nameless
because of evil* — reigned till 940 B.C., whilst Darius
Hystaspes swayed the sceptre of Persia, arose King Lava
or Laow, a builder of temples and fosterer of the Brahm
ins, who had it their own way until Usook the Happy
arose (250 b.c). Usook (or Asoka) became a convert to
Boodhism, which appears for the next five centuries to
have divided the palm with the Brahminical faith as the
national religion.
The worship of the "Tree and Serpent" — the primitive
form of religion in Cashmere — appears also to have re
tained its influence, as Ferishta tells us that in his time
there existed in the valley forty-five places of worship to
* Siva, sixty-four to Vishnu, three to Brahma, twenty-two
to Boodh, and nearly seven hundred figures of serpent gods.
These figures may be held approximately to Represent the
religion of Cashmere anterior to his (Mahomedan) times.
Now comes the age of temple building, not unmixed
with traces of a certain Druidical form of sylvan worship,
of which even relics are extant.
Asoka was a contemporary of Antiochus the Great and
Ptolemy Philadelphus (284—246 B.c).
The career of Jaloka ( Jalook), son of Asoka, is overlaid
* Probably Boodhists, the Raja Taringini having a Brahminical inspir
ation hostile to the Budhistic schism.

Chapter 5.] Cashmere. 55
with fable. Mighty and wondrous, according to the
fables, were the deeds of this magician king. The philos
opher's stone and command over the spirits of the air
were amongst his powers. Careering on the wings of a
"dragon" he was wont daily to visit the temples of Wara-
mool, Bejbarrie, and Lar. His powers, however, were
exercised for good; and he, first of the princes of Cash
mere, instituted an organised government, His brother,
Damoodara II., is fabled to have been transformed into a
serpent, and to this day is believed to roam in that
degraded form amidst the dark solitudes of the forests
and mountains.
A line of fameless princes ensues: amongst them Indur,
the mad jester, plays his pranks. King Nur and the
people of his city are fabled to have been destroyed by
the fiery breath of a serpent god.
At intervals of centuries we read of Meerkull, surnamed
Husti-nuj (the destroyer of elephants), who exercises
tyranny for a space; of Arrerhye, the ascetic, who having
entered the cave of Bhamejo, never emerged thence, but
died and was there buried; and of many other worthies
who played their parts, till the throne being vacant, the .
nobles elected Meegwahun — "dweller under the canopy of
the clouds" — a descendant of King Andjude'shtur, king.
He was a conqueror of many nations, and a wanderer
after philosophy and science. He acquired his surname
(A.D. 330) as follows:—
Many kings, princes, and nobles were assembled seek
ing the hand of the daughter of the King of Khuttar in
marriage, who was to view them from her balcony engaged
in warlike exercises previous to making choice. The
prince being poor was unable to" afford a tent for his ac
commodation, and accordingly set up his spear in the
open plain, and dwelt under "the shadow of the clouds;"

56 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
he, however, excelled all his rivals in the beauty of his
person and dexterity at the sports, and was accordingly
selected by the princess, whom he married, with a large
dowry. He became a great prince, until at length raised
to the throne of his ancestors, he conquered Ceylon,
Surat, &c, and returned to Cashmere by way of Scinde.
He is stated to have passed his army over the Indus by
means of a "dragon" or "serpent" (apparently a mechan
ical machine or flyingbridge).
Now arose the great conqueror, Provarsen, about 65
years B.C., who, according to the chronicles, overran and
conquered the whole of India, carried off the throne of
the fairies, and performed fabulous deeds. He, in truth,
however, built the city of Srinugger, the present capital
of Cashmere. After a reign of sixty years he died. His
grandson, the mysterious Zeardut, was also a conqueror;
but the annals of his reign are enveloped in impenetrable
obscurity (a.d. 432).* About him the chronicles are
quite at fault: according to them he was a contemporary
of Mahomed. To make matters worse, when he was
about 300 years old, he, with all his army, is said to have
entered the caves of Bhamejo, and never returned thence.
The truth appears to be that he and his host perished in
some expedition amongst the hills near Kishtewar in the
Zanskur country. As to the eccentricities of his age and
career, it were tedious, perhaps impracticable, to attempt
an explanation. His son, the benevolent Bikramadit,
succeeds. Another son, Bullitardit, leads a vast army
into Hindostan, and performs doughty deeds.
Of the same family — the tenth in succession from the

* This discrepancy probably arises from the variance of the solar,
lunar, and siderial years, represented respectively by the eras A.D.,
Hijira, or Vikramaditya, according as Christian, Mahomedan, or Hindoo
epochs are quoted.

Chapter 5.] Cashmere. 57
great Provarsen — arose the great conqueror Lalitadit,
who overran in succession the Punjaub, Behar, Bengal,
the Dekhan, Ceylon, Malwah, Delhi, Kabool, Bokhara
(this last he only overcame after four desperate battles
with its king); he returned to Cashmere vid Kuttar,
Thibet. He was also a very learned prince, and the ad
miration of his great qualities has invested his memory
with supernatural powers. Fables are related of him
which forcibly remind one of the miracles of Moses, and
lead to the supposition of Mahomedan embellishment
above-mentioned; e.g., on one occasion when his army
was perishing for want of water in the desert he is related
to have struck a rock, when a spring of water is said to
have gushed forth. Another story is given of his dividing
the waters of a certain river for the passage of his army
and other legends of similar character. At length he
perished with all his host in the snowy mountains near
Iskardo. He was the eighteenth king since King Meeg-
wahun, and with him may be said to have perished the
glory of Cashmere as a kingdom.
Thirty-seven insignificant princes succeed, till at length
the nobles, chiefly of the tribe of Magrey, disgusted at
the effete stock of ancient kings — which seems to have
reached its climax of folly and luxury in the person of
King Hurshun — set up several puppet kings as cloaks to
their own designs. Feebleness and anarchy ensued; and
things were about at their worst, when, in the reign of
Jyie Sing — about ad. 1200 — Kulhana Pundit began to
collect that ancient chronicle of Cashmere called "The
Raja Taringini," almost the sole authority for its past
history. Feebleness invites aggression; accordingly we find in
the reign of King Zeshyumdeo, an army of Toorks invad
ing Cashmere from Kabool (a.d. 1210). The hereditary

58 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
commander-in-chief of the country, the brave Malchund
— the support of the throne — marches to meet them. In
order to discern the enemy's forces Malchund, disguising
himself as a common runner, penetrates into the enemy's
camp, and manages to pin, with his dagger, at the pillow
of the Toorkoman general a letter of menace. The his
tory adds that the latter, on awaking and discovering the
same was so terrified that he precipitately fled to Kabool
with his army.*
During the next reign of Pertap, Malchund his minister
— as before his father's — led an army into Hindostan and
repopulated Malwah, which hence acquired its name from
its benefactor, Malchund, its ancient name being Kamput.
The king becoming tyrannical and avaricious Malchund
left him to his fate, and he alone, or his sons after him,
maintained the frontier and built a chain of forts to guard
the passes; their stronghold being Kucknigera in theLar
(a.d. 1220). About this time, says the chronicle, Kashyp-
murra began to be called Kashmir. This family alone
sustained the declining power of Cashmere, now become
a legitimate object of prey to any bold adventurer. Sup
ported by these nobles, King Sunkramdeo, about the
middle of the thirteenth century, made a feeble effort to
sustain the fading glories of Cashmere. Then the throne
fell into the hands of a family of feeble Brahmins, who
soon fell before the energy and subtlety of a new race;
its ancient religion was subverted, and its history soon
merged in that of a new line of Mahomedan kings.
* The reader is reminded of the treatment of Saul by David, as related
in sacred history.

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 59

CHAPTER VI.
The Trahul Mountains — Caught in the rains on Wuster-
Wun — Mdnusir Lake — Anecdotes of mountain sport
— Join camp of pilgrims — The Seshnag Lalce —
Panch-teren, and the road to 'Amr-Nauth — The
Caves of 'Amr-Nauth — Sonarsir and the Duchin
Para — High-hill Shooting — Marmots — Harput-Nar
&c. — Bear Driving in the wooded spurs of Mulwun
and Banihal.
WE next catch a glimpse of our party caught in the
rain near the summit of Wuster-Wun (the forest-
covered), elevation 12,000 feet above sea level.
Rain! rain! rain! For three long days nothing but
rain; followed by three days more of rolling mists, which
obscure the very tent tops.
Cold — bitter cold and chill — is it in those elevated
regions, and we give up one of our tents to our poor
famished followers.
At times the curtain of dense mist rolls off, displaying
a panorama scarcely surpassed on earth, — the full glory
of the Cashmere Valley, illumined by the western sun
beams. I recall one picture of the valley from this point: —
A sea of white mist was resting over the whole valley,
reaching up the sides of the surrounding mountains to
about the probable depth of the original lake (Suttee Sir),
about 900 feet, its promontories juttmg out, and islands
— the tops of the inferior hills — standing forth from the
vast white sea of mist in which their bases were enveloped.
Upon this the setting sun was pouring floods of glory;
lighting up the white fleecy surface till it appeared hke

60 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
an incandescent flood of molten silver, recalling to mind
the splendid vision of the divine Kashiapa, its mythic
architect. 
Anon the rolling curtain closes in, and the soul of man
receding, taketh refuge in mulled port or whisky toddy !
Here, then, we rested perforce, eking out the weary
hours as best we might, with reading, writing up journals,
and the recital of bygone adventures by flood and field;
several of which, as tending to illustrate the wild mount
ain life in Cashmere, I shall here introduce; and I may as
well here state that the anecdotes here recorded are all
exactly and literally true, although possibly not all re
counted on this particular occasion, though this also is
very possible from coincidence in the times of occurrence-
After much pressure, my companions being like most
thorough sportsmen, rather reticent in relating their ad
ventures, Captain A.D.C. was persuaded to commence as
follows : —
"Last spring, whilst hunting in the Duchin-Para, S.
and I were encamped near the banks of the river or
mountain stream which rises at the head of that valley.
We used to take different beats: and mine lay one day
across one of those frozen snow-bridges, such as you may
recollect as spanning many torrents in the higher hills
towards their sources. The incline of this one was pecu
liarly steep, and it was with some difficulty that I and my
spare gun carriers descended. Whilst crossing the lowest
dip of the snow-bridge it suddenly gave way, and the gun
carrier who happened to be leading disappeared into the
foaming river, leaving me with my remaining follower on
the very edge of the yawning chasm. Without one word
we turned at once, and scrambling up the steep slope we
had so cautiously descended, in two seconds had reached
the summit. Arrived there in safety I, for the first time

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 61
in my life felt what fear really was, and we gazed at each
other with blank faces.
'"He's gone!' cried my companion, throwing up his
arms. "However, on peering below — down into the chasm —
we were astonished to see the poor fellow bravely support
ing himself on a small island of frozen snow — the fragment
of the fallen bridge — in the midst of the raging torrent.
He was in the most awfully perilous position one can
imagine. Of course not a moment was to be lost in
rendering him assistance, as the snow island on which he
was with some difficulty maintaining his balance, was
rapidly disappearing into the boiling waters. Luckily
we were close to camp, so instantly rushing for tent ropes
etc. we succeeded in extricating him from his perilous
position, faithfully holding on to my rifle to the last."
Quoth F. "Your anecdote reminds me of an incident
which occurred to myself last spring up in Wurd-Wun.
I had wounded a fine snow bear, which, all but dead,
managed to slip over a steep 'kudd' (precipice) overhang
ing a torrent, which roared along far below.* Being un
willing to lose the animal — but not being so accomplished
a cragsman as some of the hillsmen — I offered a reward
for his skin, a thing I almost immediately repented of.
A volunteer at once came forward and began to descend
the cliff, but had not proceeded far before his foot slipped,
and down he went, calling loudly on his 'Mai! mai!'
(mother, mother). The sound, however, suddenly ceased,
and I began to fear the poor fellow must have plunged
over some ledge of the cliff into the river below. I ac
cordingly, myself, began the descent, and when about one
third of the way down, we found him sticking head-
downwards in a snow-well, such as in those altitudes are
* See page 20, Chap. II.

62 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
met with surrounding the boles of frozen pines; into one
of these he had pitched headlong, thereby probably
saving his life. My rifle, which had escaped from his
hand, was hanging suspended on some bushes by one
hammer (the broken one by the way) over the precipice.
We pulled him out half dead with fright and suffocation,
but no further damage done, and a small present soon
quite restored him. The excitement gone, we were nearly
an hour regaining the summit of the cliff whence we had
descended in a few minutes, and  we saw no more of
our bear  I may add that I myself on one
occasion, together with my shikari (hunter), slid more
than two hundred feet down a steep snow-cleft, and I can
vouch for it that the sensation of being 'under weigh' on
the steep hill-side is far from pleasant. On this occasion,
by digging our elbows and hill-sticks into the snow, we
succeeded in 'bringing up' in a hollow dip just above a
nearly perpendicular fall of the frozen torrent."
Then up spake S. the lancer: — "A day or two before I
fell in with F. at Kandikaj, I arrived at a village in the
Lolab valley, where a man had been recently killed by a
she-bear. The animal had taken up her abode in a cave
beneath the roots of a large chenar tree in the very midst
of the scattered village, and had there brought forth her
cubs. She would remain quiet and concealed during the
day, and at night go forth to feed, returning always before
daybreak. It happened that a stranger, travelling, ar
rived at the village after nightfall, and seeing a fine shady
tree at hand spread his blanket on the spot, and — as the
natives said — his destiny having arrived, there fell asleep.
It was conjectured that the bear on returning to her cave
from her nocturnal ramble, had instantly attacked him,
as, in the morning, the wretched man's corpse was found
with the head completely twisted off the body. Having

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 63
learnt the above particulars, and viewed the spot, I deter
mined to return at night and rid the village of such a
pest, but to my astonishment on announcing my intention
the villagers begged and prayed me to spare the brute,
which, as they said, had claimed their hospitality, and
was their guest. On my persisting, they promised to show
me another bear which haunted their village nightly,
and they actually performed their promise that night,
when we mobbed and positively killed with clubs a half
grown black bear, whose skin you may recollect I brought
into your camp at Kandikaj."
F.: "I readily credit your story, S., because I am aware
that the practice of tabooing, or setting apart as sacred,
certain animals is not uncommon in Cashmere. In a vil
lage of the Lar Pergunnah, a fine barasing stag was lately
cherished as a guest. When a fawn it had been found
one morning in the precincts of the village zeearut
(mosque), having apparently been dropped by its dam
whilst crossing at night. In time it grew into a powerful
stag, and at times sought the companionship of his species
amongst the wild herds, but was butted out, and used to
return sadly mauled. He became fierce and intractable,
and in his fits of fury killed several persons; but, being as
it were, a sacred guest, no one dared to molest the animal,
who was allowed to wander at will, trample down the corn
fields, and even — like the Brahminee bull of India — rum
mage the grain shops in search of food; in short, become
the pest of the village. It, however, happened that a
strange hunter, passing that way, arrived in the village,
and was entertained by a friend who thus addressed him :
'"Art thou not my guest? Why, then, should I not
cause thine heart to rejoice ? This very night will I show
thee a fat stag which nightly ravageth my fields, and thou
shalt shoot him, oh son of a shikari, oh my friend.'

64 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"Accordingly this shrewd friend led his guest within a
few paces of the stag, and the stranger hunter shot him
dead on the spot; and it was decided by the village casu
ists that, the sacrilegious deed having been inadvertently
committed, no sin attached to any one; and as the Ma-
homedans, under the present Hindoo government, are
forbidden under pain of death from cow killing, I have
no sort of doubt but that the village community enjoyed
the fat steaks of their revered protege' amazingly, whose
meat is so like beef as scarcely to be distinguished there
from. Is it not so, Ameer Ali?"
"Inshallah! yes, sahib!" answered the red-bearded old
shikari of Trahul, tugging at his thick red beard. "By
Allah! we Usbegs now-a-days grow pot-bellied and fat
like the bunnias of Srinugger for want of the strong meat
of the cow. We can't always get barasing."
As regards mobbing a bear, as narrated above, I may
remark that it is a common thing in Cashmere for the
villagers, on discovering a bear "up a tree," to surround
the tree with a circle of live embers. They then go and
call their comrades with weapons, and mob the bear, who
will never descend the tree whilst girt by the circle of
fire. This I have been told, but I have not seen it myself.
With such like conversation we beguiled the weary hours.
Whilst in the anecdotal mood I may as well mention a
trait of this old shikari, who was in fact father of the
young hunter introduced in Chapter IV. of this work.
I must premise that it was a habit with me whilst on
the mountain side, say waiting for game, to gather any
peculiar herbs or flowers of the magnificent flora which
clothes these mountains in summer, with a view of test
ing their qualities, whether medicinal or otherwise, and
in this way I had found, in fact, many interesting plants.
On showing a lot I had gathered the day of our arrival

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 65
in the ravines and slopes of Wuster-Wun to this old
shikari, he gravely gave me the native names for most of
them, and I as gravely entered them in my note book or
journal. At this time I observed his son— the young hunter
alluded to — rolling on the ground in ecstasies of laughter.
On giving him a passing consideration, I supposed that
he and his old father — who had met that day after many
weeks' separation — had been taking "somewhat to keep
out the cold;" but a key to his mirth was subsequently
afforded me, when I discovered that the old rogue had
been taking a rise out of me, and had given me all the
most objectionable words in his language as the nomen
clature of his native flora. I half forgave the old rascal
his joke, as it is refreshing to meet an Asiatic who has
sufficient energy of mind and can joke. I have no doubt
but that many travellers are thus taken in by indigenous
wags of other lands.
Our friend A.D.C. had started with the ambition of
being, whilst in the field, self-sustaining, and repudiated
as effeminate all accommodation beyond his guns and
blankets, believing that a hunter in very bad weather
should hang the latter over his cross-spears or hill-sticks;
but on this occasion he had to give in to what he called
luxuries, and we made him up a bed on our camp table
in our tent. Should he ever read these pages I trust he
will pardon my recording his lapse from the Spartan
simplicity of the hunter's life on this occasion.
S. and I in this respect generally went in for comfort
when we could, although S. also was one of the hardiest
sportsmen who ever shouldered rifle. Even I, perhaps
the most luxurious of the party, have many a time —
when occasion offered — slept on the bare hill side or
forest, sub Jove frigido; but then I was, in fact, as much

66 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
a hunter of the sublime and beautiful as of wild beasts;
and on this particular occasion I believe Longinus him
self would have enjoyed his bottle or glass of hot grog to
keep the wet and cold off.
Our object, however, was sport, and when, on the morn
ing of 5th August the mists gradually rolled up from the
valley to mountain top, and became dissipated into thin
clouds, which floated away far over the glaciers before
noon, we rejoiced exceedingly, and girded up our loins
for the chase.
We organised our respective beats: mine lay due north,
but after a two days' hunt our party of three determined
to separate and rendezvous a week thence. Two of us
— S. and I — held together, but our friend left us, and ex
cept on one day when we caught the glitter from the gun
barrels of his party far down in the valley below us,* this
was the last we saw of our friend A.D.C. for six weeks, as
he chanced on sport and kept his ground.
On this occasion I visited the Mamisir Lake, a wild
icy tarn in the Trahul Mountains, the fabled abode of
the dreaded "Kroom," or "Water Kelpie" of Cashmere.
This creature — a pure myth by the way — is said to be of
the polypus order, having long arms or antennae. He is
said occasionally to leave the water, and, stiffening these
arms like the spokes of a wheel, to bowl over the ground
like a hoop. Of course this fantastic idea is pure fiction,
and the very existence of any such creature in the Cash
mere lakes — though of general belief — has, probably no
foundation; possibly it may be a faint adumbration of
the original fable of "Juldeva," the tyrannical water-naga

* I give this fact as a warning to sportsmen, I may add riflemen gener
ally. His gun barrels were visible to the naked eye, whilst the individ
uals could scarcely be made out with field glasses. All barrels for war
or sport should be kept well "browned," and the mountings also dulled.

Chapter 6.]

Cashmere.

67

of the mythic age. One of my hunters, however, used to
swear on the Koran he had seen a horse seized by one
whilst drinking in this very lake. I doubt, however,
whether any horse could have made the ascent of such a
mountain as Wuster-Wun, on the very summit of which
lies this solitary tarn. This lake, though perhaps a mile

33— THE MANUSIR LAKE ON THE SUMMIT OF WUSTER-WUN.
Small Icebergs floating on the lake
in circumference, looks quite small from the rocks sur
rounding, which form a sort of caldron in the apex of the
mountain; and though near midsummer at the time we
visited it, when it might be supposed most free from ice,
there were miniature icebergs floating about on its sur
face. The colour of the water was that snow-green so
well known to Alpine travellers. Here also are the
graves of five Cashmeries who perished in the snow,
having attempted to cross the mountain in winter. Their
bodies were found next spring, and the five stones were
set up to mark their graves in this bleak solitude.
S. and I, meeting with little game, worked our way
round by the Duchin Para, and descended into the valley
F 2

68 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
to the north-east. Our shikari had promised to bring us
by short cut over the mountain, but evidently lost his
bearings; the consequence was, we had to descend a long
ravine, following the course of a torrent, the worst march
I had made in these hills. Our coolies could not arrive
by nightfall, they had to bivouac on the mountain, so we
were compelled by the rain — which again began to fall —
to take shelter for the night in some Goojurs' huts, where
we were glad to rest, I., for one, being quite done up.
We finally emerged from the mountains of Trahul and
the Duchin Para at a point near the village of Paragaom.
Our companion not keeping tryst, we joined the Camp of
Pilgrims, who, to the number of two thousand, happened
to be passing at the time on their annual pilgrimage to
the gypsum caves of 'Amr-Nauth. We marched with
them. On the 9th August we pitched camp on the shores of
the Se'shnag Lake, a fine sheet of water about three miles
in circumference. The mountain path was covered with
the pilgrims, who, however, encamped some distance
ahead of our camp. Here master "Pincher," S.'s little
dog — of whom more anon — chased a sheep, which, in its
terror, took to the water and swam right out into the
middle of the lake, where, getting confused, it took to
swimming round and round in circles, till at length it
miserably perished in the cold waters of Seshnag — a
sacrifice to the powers of Ananti (Hades), a synonym of
Se'shnag. This lake, as the name implies, is regarded by the
Hindoos as the abode of the mighty "snake" or "serpent-
god Se'sh," who, however, is confessedly somewhat chary
of his presence to his votaries in camp, who pay no
devotion till their return from the pilgrimage of 'Amr-
Nauth. It is fabled that amidst the rugged pinnacles of

Chapter 6.]

Cashmere.

69

these mountains, "Wataswar" (spirit of the air), having
chased away the host of heaven, there established a
tyranny until slain by Siva (or Mahadeo), who, after this
labour, "rested on the bosom of Se'shnag." A picture of
this touching event is in my possession, and highly sug
gestive it is of the "Ophistic" character of the primitive
religion of Cashmere.
Continuing our march with the camp of pilgrims, we
next day (10th) encamped at Panch-teren, a beautiful
spot amidst the high mountains, a few miles below 'Amr-
Nauth. We shot several dryns (marmots) along this
march. Our camp was pitched on the bank of several
(five) clear streams, which, running through the valley
from various directions, here unite. The place is hence
called Panch-teren in consequence. The small valley is
flanked with cliffs which lead up to the glaciers of Sooroo,
which dominate the vale. Here the ground is covered
with flowers, and altogether forms a beautiful Alpine site.
The next day (11th August) we rose early, and visited
the celebrated Cave of 'Amr-Nauth, the goal of our

34— THE GYPSUM CAVES OF 'AMR-NAUTH.

70 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
journey. It is about seven miles distant from Panch-
teren. Here about two thousand pilgrims offered their
prayers at full moon. I was somewhat disappointed at
the cavern, which has nothing very striking about it ex
cept that the sacred streams here issue frozen from the
rocks within it, assuming the form of the Lingum, thus
presenting an object of adoration to Hindoos, as an em
blem of the creative attribute of Deity.
The gypsum Cave of 'Amr-Nauth or 'Amr-Eshwur,
sacred to Mahadeo, is situated in the rugged chain which
separates Cashmere from Thibet. Its elevation above
sea-level cannot be less than 15,000 feet, as even during
summer its approach is invested with the snows of winter.
Wild fantastic peaks and desolate steppes surround the
spot, and the grand old glaciers of Wurdwun and Sooroo
tower in the far horizon.
Hindoos perform a yearly pilgrimage to this shrine;
and to a devotee from the city of Srinugger there are no
less than twenty-two places of "snan," or religious ablu
tion to be observed before he can approach the holy
adytum, or cave of 'Amr-Nauth.
Legends or absurd fables are attached to all these
spots, but a detail of them were tedious.
Worshippers, chiefly of Siva (the destroyer), and
"Ophists" (snake worshippers), believing, moreover, their
own small valley to contain within its limits the germ or
type of the whole Hindoo Pantheon; a Cashmere Brah
min, wretchedly superstitious — his mikrocosm as full of
snakes, demons, and demi-gods as a cheese of mites —
must needs stumble at every step upon some stock or
stone commemorative of fabled adventures of his deities;
adventures as puerile and fantastic as can be imagined,
containing no single element (as interpreted to me) wise,
historic, or sublime, nor even redeemed from utter absur-

VI1.-DESCENT OF A SNOWCLEFT NEAR SONA-MERG

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 71
dity by the glory of poetic imagery or the vigour of a
profound cosmogony.
Fatuous ecstasy impressed upon their features, the
miserable idolaters — male and female — may be seen,
stark naked, abjectly grovelling in the snow, and drag
ging their bodies over the icicle, or stalactyte, which, in
the form of Lingum — a Phallic emblem — issues from the
frozen fount of the "Lord of the philter of immortality."
We watched this strange scene for some time, and then
returned to camp.
The full August moon rose majestically over the glacier
of Panch-teren, and shed her soft radiance over the grey
rugged cliff and rushing stream, and the watch-fires of
the pilgrim camp glimmered down the vale. We then —
for the chill mountain air doth whet the appetite— made
a particularly good dinner off a roast Hindoo ! ("hoondoo"
I should have written, meaning a Cashmere sheep — but
let it stand !)
Next day, before leaving so high ground, we determined
to try for ibex. We accordingly marched sixteen miles
over desolate snow-fields and the withered* tops of moun
tains. After a tremendous climb across the very axis of
the ridge, we at length arrived at a long gorge or ravine
of snow. Down this we slid — with all our followers — up
wards of a good mile ; and then debouched into a charm
ing Alpine valley of some extent, nestled in the stony
heart of the rugged chain we had passed. A blue lake
and clear rushing stream from the spring head, Sonarsir,
watering meadows enamelled with flowers; in the midst
of which we pitched camp.

* I use the word withered as expressive of the appearance of the rock
at these high elevations ! the grasp of the snow and ice seems, as it were,
to expetrify the rock ; and the word ' ' withered " seems the most expres
sive I can hit on to describe the effect of disintegration produced thereby.

72 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
F.'s classic mind expatiated in the suggestive influences
of the spot; he sniffed the genial air; his eye glanced
down the mossy vistas and arrowy stream. "In such a
scene might one picture the happy valley of Rasselas, or
the Elysian fields of classic story, or the fair Proserpine
be imagined playing in the fields of Enna amidst the wild
flowers — a valley rivalling a Hybla or a Tempe. Shut
out by rugged peaks from the surrounding world this
lovely spot might realise the fable of the golden valley.
Here might the hunter Endymion, beneath the 'glimpses
of the moon,' discover the chaste Diana, with her bevy of
fair nymphs, reposing in the glades, Naiads be heard
murmuring from the fountains, or Hamadryads caught
peeping from behind the mossy oak \rees. Here  "
"By Jove, F.," shouts S., "There's a harput!" and sure
enough a large grey bear appeared across the river.
F.'s cheeks reddened with generous ardour; he grasped
his rifle. "Is no spot, however fair, to be free from this
hateful brood! Is the dire chimsera to intrude into fairy
land and invade the very bowers of poetry and romance!
A symbol of moral deformity in the picturesque world!"
In such a view of the case, F. selected the hardest and
most conical-looking bullet from his pouch, and rammed
it home with peculiar asperity ! That right noble hunter
of evil beasts, S., then crossed the river, and commenced a
scientific stalk of the common enemy. My approach be
ing on the hither side, and parallel, I was in a position to
observe the whole affair. There was bruin, unconscious
of danger, calmly grubbing up the roots on the edge of
the ravine, and S. gradually working his approach towards
him, partially directed by my signals, which he was able to
observe. When close upon him old bruin took fright, and
— S. being hampered by the thicket — escaped after all,
vainly saluted also, by two long parting shots from my

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 73
rifle across the ravine. I record this as being, though
unsuccessful, amongst the prettiest stalks I have seen.
This charming spot was, it is believed, on this occasion
first visited by an European; nor do I suppose it will ever
be much explored, being, as it is, thoroughly "oojar" — be
yond civilisation — and (not that this would in any way
affect our gallant English sportsmen) the access to it
difficult and even dangerous. Supplies had to be carried
with us over the mountains for the time we stayed.
Along this march are found some very dangerous slopes,
assuming the form of lofty mural precipices of shifting
detritus and boulders sloping steeply down to the shores
of a small lake, passed en route to Palagaom. They are
composed of loose erratic de"bris and stones, forming a
loose conglomerate, from out of which the large stones —
on which one naturally steps — often detach themselves,
and go rolling down into the abyss in an unpleasantly
suggestive manner.
I afterwards found that the lake formed one of the
head-waters of the Sind river, which, running by Sona
Merg, down the valley of the Lar Pergunnah, falls into
the River Jhelum at Sanbul 
We met here with but little game, but found a few bara-
sing stags, sometimes herded together on the very tops
of the mountains, at elevations of not less than 14,000 or
15,000 feet; but the horns still in the velvet. The hinds
are, at this season, in comparatively low ground, bringing
up their fawns. Many are thus engaged in the small
wooded islets and glens of the Wurdwun and Sind rivers
— spots all but inaccessible to man, as those rivers are at
this season raging torrents. I did, indeed, once form an
intention of floating down on these islands in a raft con
structed for the purpose, but abandoned the idea as both
cruel and dangerous. In fact, I have always gone on the

74

The Highlands of India.

[Section I.

principle of leaving incubating or breeding game alone,
even in the wilds of an "unpreserved" country. As I am
on the subject, I will just say one word more in favour of
modified "game laws" for India. Introduce them, and all
succeeding generations of British sportsmen will bless
your memory!
My companion S., a far hardier cragsman than myself,
used to strip to the waist, and so pursue his game in the
rain and sleet, even up to the highest snow peaks. We
were caught in the rains and had to get wetted through
at any rate. It is, indeed, a rough task to hunt these
wild mountains at midsummer — uphill work in fact
Blanket coats — on getting to the windy summits, where
the icy blasts are enough to cut one in half — were indis
pensable, and we were poorly rewarded after all; so after
a few days more in this beautiful valley, as the rains
seemed set in, we made our way across the mountains to
our old rendezvous, Palagaom and the Duchin Para,
shooting a few marmots on the way. These little gentry
the coneys, perhaps, of Scripture — are to be seen sitting

life

ml

THE MARMOTS.

Chapter 6.]

Cashmere.

75

close to the mouth of their burrows, and unless shot dead
escape down them. Their habitat is at not less than
12,000 feet elevation. Their shrill scream aggravates the
passing traveller, who might, perhaps, spare them other
wise, and ofttimes leads to their destruction.
The course of travel finds us next at "Harput" Nar —
bears' cliff — watching the fields all night from machams,
or watch towers, of scaffolding, built by the villagers for
the purpose. Bears were wandering in the "makyie," or
Indian maize; but this is the most unsatisfactory method
of bear shooting with which I am acquainted. It is
difficult to catch a glimpse even of your bear whilst
wandering in the waving maize; and accidents are liable
to occur from firing at random. A zemindar (farmer)
has occasionally shot his friend's or his own cattle, by
mistake, from a macham !
Next we tried a "drive" of the low hills of the Deosir
Pergunnah, near Mulwun, a lovely village of most pictur
esque surroundings. Here, amidst the woods, are many
wild apple, pear, and other fruit trees, on ground appar
ently formerly cultivated, but now run to jungle. Here
we met with fair success, several bears falling before our

^^y^^xi

i^-VILLAGE OF MULWUN.

5&#-

76 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
rifles, and good fun this is — keeping your bear, when
found, always moving along the scrub, until at length,
fairly worn out, he makes a clean bolt of it into the open;
when, in some cases, he might even be ridden and speared
from horseback! This, I believe, has been done! I am un
acquainted with the name of the adventurous sportsman;
but he and his horse "came to grief," and were both nearly
killed by the wounded bear he attempted to spear.
The little dog "Pincher" — already noticed — here dis
tinguished himself. Ordinarily he was rather a cowardly
little animal — whom a good sized mouse might frighten
— but it appears that having been brought up with a
young bear, he had lost all fear of that animal; accord
ingly he on this occasion turned out most useful, and
would run into the thickets when the bears got sulky
and squatted in thick bushes, would bark and even tug
at their fur, when out bruin would bolt as though stirred
up with a hot poker. In this way several bears were
brought within range of our rifles.
On this occasion I shot a large forest bear through the
heart, who went off as if untouched, but which, on follow
ing up, I found lying stone dead behind a rock, 150 yards
off! The lesson to be deduced from the frequent recur
rence of such cases is, "never give up the pursuit of a
wounded animal whilst a chance remains!" Humanity,
as well as every hunting experience, should inculcate this
golden maxim of wood-craft with trumpet tongue!
Now comes a moving diorama, in which the "Caves of
Martund," the "Fish tanks of Islamabad," the "Clear
fountains and ruined baths of Virnag and Echibul," and
old "Bejbiharrie, with its ruined columns," &c, all figure
on the scene ! Then the city of Srinugger, with its flood
gates, fruits, and floating gardens; its feasts and flowers
and fairy forms— the paradise of the hunter returned
from the snows!

Chapter 6.] Cashmere. 77
We took up our residence in one of the "strangers'
bungalows" on the river's bank above the city — then just
built — and there lived a life of ease and comparative lux
ury for a week or two. Here, however, I recollect on
more than one occasion being disturbed at night by the
cry of "Bears!" These brutes would come down from
the mountains at nightfall, and trespass on the villagers'
fields and orchards close around the city itself. My
friend S. was never proof against the cry of "Bears
afoot!" and would sally forth, rifle in hand, over the
khe"ts (fields) after them. I remember on one occa
sion, whilst seated at chess with a friend, the cry was
raised, when out we both sallied after them, pursuing
them across the swamps, up the hill almost to the Takt-
i-Suliman temple: there we lost them, wounded. On
another occasion a bear swam across the river Jhelum,
just above the "strangers' reach;" and I may here remark
that I have seen bears and pigs, both wild and domestic
— animals supposed by some never to take the water —
swim well across rivers, in as good form as water dogs.
Our merry party broke up about the 18th September,
and dispersed in various directions; I, with two friends,
proceeding up the river Jhelum in boats towards Islama
bad and the Duchin Para.

37— Goojur Huts, our lodging 8lh August.

78 The Highlands of India. [Section I.

CHAPTER VII.
A solitary Hunt in Wurdwun — Soknuz and the lateral
Valleys of Sooroo — The Pyhil-Kynjie Pass — Ibex
Shooting — Barasing Deer in the Naboo Hills — Bear
Shooting by Night in the Walnut Groves — Pictures
of the Cashmere Valley.
ABOUT the end of September, my companions having
marched down towards the plains, I found myself
alone amongst the hills of Cashmere, with two months of
leave still unexpired. Owing, perhaps to inexperience, I
had hitherto met with but little success in hunting; and
after, say, a score of little "difficulties" with friend Barley
corn, I found myself possessed of no more than some poor
half dozen peltries as trophies of the chase.
I determined on a vigorous hunt over the range visited
in the spring by myself and my dear companion A.
Previous to a start, however, I bivouacked out several
nights in the walnut groves, as the bears at this season
begin to ascend the trees for the nuts, but although
several were roaming about in the groves, and approached
my position closely, for some reason they did not go up
the trees, and the night was too dark to see distinctly;
in fact, this — rather poaching — sport requires a clear,
bright moon for success.
Whilst at this place — Kieu, under the Panjal of Bani-
hal— I remarked that a strong south-east wind always
set in after sunset and continued for about two hours,
when it suddenly lulled; whilst the tops of the trees were
bending before the blast, a breathless calm prevailed on
the surface of the ground. The effect was strange and
"eerie" — the shades of night closing around, and the

S^TWP*,

m

$» iff; lml^m^^m-:^

mm

/HiIII

Chapter 7.]

Cashmere.
gale overhead

whistling

79

through the

wild, rushing
walnuts. Towards the next afternoon I struck tents, and marched
across the Bring Pergunnah, up the Naboo valley; next
day over the Pyhil-Kynjie Pass into Wurdwun, and so up
the valley, near the head of which I pitched camp at the
village of Sokndz, on the Thibet road.

38— VILLAGE OF SOKNUZ.
Showing the method of stacking fodder in the higher valleys.
It was at this spot that the celebrated P.C. was reported
to have shot thirteen bears before breakfast! My readers
will scarcely credit this, and I confess I was myself scep
tical of the fact when I heard it, for P. had the char
acter — whether truly or not I cannot say — of being a bit
of a "romancer." Whilst at Soknfiz, however, I made
particular enquiries; and after viewing the ground, which
is overrun with a kind of sweet root not unlike the par
snip, I arrived at the conclusion that at the very begin
ning of the season it was far from an impossibility ! Peter
was the first to cross the pass into Wurdwun that year —
my companion A. and I having passed it the next day;

80 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Peter also having the advantage of previous experience,
and the best shikaries of Cashmere, who took him straight
to this ground; so, whilst Peter — as I heard — had his
pony with him, and dismounted to shoot his bears, poor
A. and I were toiling up to the snow every day, consider
ing ourselves lucky to see three or four bears, with a few
barasing and musk deer, daily. Indeed, it is not always
the hardest- working hunter who gets most game! Exper
ience and knowledge of wood-craft, in hunting, as in all
other pursuits, command success. Knowledge of ground
and of the habits of game will more than compensate for
inferior powers of toil and climbing.
At Sokniiz, on the hillside, I found some pools, the
water of which, being warmish, is much affected by the
game, and the banks were completely cut up by the
barasingha. I accordingly constructed a "macham," and
watched out all one night; but the season was too late,
and I found that the deer had all gone downwards into
lower ground, so I got nothing but a very promising
rheumatism and some fine young aches and pains! In
the morning I found the ponds covered with a thin ice,
and the hoar-frost sparkling on my coverlets ! in fact, the
winter was now fast approaching, and a fall of snow was
dreaded. The inhabitants, to a man, were in the fields
getting in the autumn harvest and fodder for the winter.
So important is this duty in these elevated valleys, that,
should winter overtake them before fully stored, men and
cattle perish of hunger during the long snows: it was
whilst endeavouring to escape from such impending cat
astrophe that the five poor fellows who perished on the
Wuster-Wun — as narrated in last chapter — were over
taken in the snow storm, and perished as described.
I was travelling lightly, and to induce the people to
come forward as coolies (porters), I used to offer double

Chapter 7.]

Cashmere.

81

wages, and change at each village; notwithstanding this
it was pitiable to see the poor creatures, the moment their
dole of pay was told, "double" off to rejoin their fellow-
labourers in the fields; sometimes they would hastily
deposit their burdens and decamp without waiting for
payment, to my great regret, so much more valuable to
men in their case is time and store-in-kind than the
money which represents it.
On this occasion, leaving my camp at the gorge of
each, I hunted nearly all the lateral valleys which de
bouch from the north into the valley of Wurdwun.
Bivouacking near the
head of each, where
the pastural land or
dinarily runs up into
a green cul-de-sac un
der the snow, I suc
ceeded in picking up a
few bears about their
extreme recesses, whi
ther the flocks had been
driven for pasture dur
ing the summer. Each
farmer sends his quota.
Large flocks are thus collected under professional shep
herds, who drive them far into the mountains for the
sake of the fresh pasture, which springs up when the
ground is released by the melting of the snows. Of
course, at this season — October — their course was down
wards, before the advancing winter.
Amongst the bears I stalked at this time was a well-
known old rogue with a strong taste for mutton, who
had, in fact, become carnivorous — as some few occasionally
do under stress of hunger — and had killed many sheep,

38— Bivouac in Wurdwun.

82 The Highlands of India. [Seotion l
and even several shepherds. His haunt was pointed out
to me; and one day I sighted him on a pinnacle of the
rocks, and even managed to get within 300 yards, but
the cunning old rascal managed to escape me. He had
been stalked by several other British officers who visited
Wurdwun that year — Speke of the Nile amongst them
if I mistake not — but not one of them managed to get a
shot at him !
At this time I was leading so rough a life that I was
thrown more than usual in the society of my shikaries
after hunting hours. Many a tale of woodcraft and ad
venture did I hear from them over our watchfire at night
I may here, however, remark that the Asiatic mind seems
wonderfully jejune and unimaginative; and, except in very
rare cases, quite dead to the romantic aspects of nature.
During my wanderings amidst the wild mountains and
forest solitudes which encircle the Vale of Cashmere, I
had supposed that such a country, if any on earth, must
possess its wild legends, and fables corresponding to the
glories of its scenery; that here, if anywhere, must the
mind of man from early ages have fashioned out a rugged
superstition suited to the glooms of the forests which sur
round them, and perchance the imagination peopled it
with spirits fantastic as the mists and snow wreaths which
envelop these dreary glaciers. Vain expectation! The
Asiatic regards not the sublime aspects of nature: — the
avalanche! the torrent thundering from the mountain
top! or the storm howling across the face of the glacier!
— except as it affects his safety or his comfort. He
dreads the "Destroyer" indeed, to whom he prays, but
no sense of the sublime or beautiful affects his torpid
soul. Not for him this lovely earth expands its glories ;
and dwelling amidst some of the most glorious scenery
this earth contains, his soul is dead to the influences of
nature ! But I pass on to my narrative.

Chapter 7.]

Cashmere.

83

I recollect, however, that old Adshah of Changos — a
well known old hunter whom, I rather believe, I was the
first to introduce to the sporting public of those days —
told me he had once, with his father, been snowed up
above Muler -Wurdwun in the mountains, toward the
gorge of the Wurdwun river, and had there seen in the
moonlight three huvdred ghosts! He was usually rather
a taciturn, pragmatic sort of old fellow, but I considered
that this startling experience had at once placed him in
the front rank of story-tellers. Nor do I recollect that I
ever heard him recount another. His invention seemed
to have expired with the single effort, like one of those
works of genius — such as Vathek — the sole creation of
their author.

39— SNOWFIELD ON THE BANKS OF THt WURDWUN RIVER.
[The arrowhead points to the place where old Adshah of Changos saw the three
hundred ghosts.]

In regard to this story, however, I may mention that
about the year 1618 A.D. some hundreds of Jehangire's
army perished on the banks of the River Moorie there-
g2

84 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
abouts in an attempt to take Noorkote, near Kishtewar;
and probably some confused tradition of the event may
have fixed itself in the old man's mind, or else — as the
old boy (though a Mahomedan) liked his liquor passably
well on occasion — I daresay for once in a way his imagin
ative faculty may have gained the ascendant under its
genial influence.
I had by this time become so hardened by the severe
exercise, that I, who at first had almost been laughed at
by my hunters — who would assume patronizing airs on
seeing me "shut up" on the mountain side — now went
ahead of them all except one local hunter, a tough little
tyke named Ramzan of Naboo, whom I could never tire
down. We could easily cover our thirty miles of moun
tain daily, without feeling more than a pleasant enjoyment
of repose at the end of it. Never, before or since in my
life, have I attained the hard condition I was then in, in
which I suppose I reached the utmost limit of my
strength and endurance.
Climbing, however, was so difficult and dangerous at
this season, owing to the' long withered grass on the
mountains, that it was not till I recrossed the Pyhil-
Kynjie Pass that I got any high-hill game. There, how
ever, in precipitous ground near the summit of the pass
three ibex fell before our rifles; and to give an idea of
the sort of ground this creature of the mountain top in
habits, I may mention that of three ibex shot, only one
horn — -that of a four-year-old male — with its skin and
about two pounds of the flesh was recovered, and I con
sider that my shikari risked his life to recover them.
The carcases of the rest lay on inaccessible pinnacles of
the cliff. This, coupled „with the dangerous and slippery
nature of the ground, where one footfall wrongly placed
would lead to certain death by a fall down the "kudd"

Chapter 7.]

Cashmere.

85

(precipice), led to my giving up ibex shooting; nor have
I killed one since.
I may here mention, as regards the ibex, that they are
an animal either with a very defective sense of hearing,
or else being accustomed to the thundering of torrents
and avalanches in the wild mountains they haunt, they
disregard sound: on this occasion the herd by no means
took fright at the first shot, nor did they pay the slightest
attention to the fall and struggles of their comrades, and
I have heard the same fact from others more experienced
in ibex shooting than myself. On the other hand, their
vision is remarkably acute, and it behoves the hunter to
keep well out of sight.

iO— IBEX SHOOTING IN WURDWUN.
In bear shooting the converse of this is true, their
vision is very imperfect, their sense of hearing moderate,
and they trust to their sense of smell — which is most
acute — to escape from danger. In stalking them the
direction of the wind must be most carefully attended to.
As regards the grand barasing — the hangloo deer of
Cashmere — they combine the acute senses of both, and

86

The Highlands of India.

[Section I.

are the wariest game that runs these hills: sight, smell,
and hearing, all most acute. They may, however, some
times be approached tolerably close whilst "belling" (or
calling hinds), during September and October — their
season. I have subsequently killed several fine stags by sleep
ing on the hill-tops and watching the edges of the forest
in the early morning at dawn of day, at which time all
game is best approached, and the barasing is no exception
to the rule. At this time the stags were bellowing in the
lower mountains, and one night I succeeded in bagging
one. I shot him at a pool of water on the top of the
Naboo Hill when he came to "drink his fill" in the moon
light at midnight. This was my first stag, and I present
a picture of the scene as freshly sketched in my journal.
Other sketches, made mostly on the spot in my journal
at this time, will further tend to show the sort of ground
the game inhabits in these wild regions, amidst which
also I managed to obtain several more bears during my
stay in the Naboo Valley: amongst them I remember an
extraordinarily fat bear, which gave no less than thirty-
six Cashmerie seers ( = 42lb.) of fat, with which the entire
body was covered to the thickness of three inches. The
grease filled a mussock, and I had it scented and distri
buted to my lady friends
on my return to my
station in the Punjaub.
The sketches will tend
to show the nature of
the sport of " bear shoot
ing in the walnut groves
of Cashmere." The
bears literally overrun
the trees, and I have

John Barleycorn in difHoulties.

Chapter 7.]

Cashmere.

87

seen — or at anyrate heard — as many as eight bears at the
same time in one grove. I have, however, already given
in Chapter 4 some details of night shooting in the mul
berry groves of the early summer. I may just add that
shooting in the walnuts is far
better, as the nut remains on the
tree after the leaves have fallen
in the late autumn, thereby en
abling the sportsman to see his
bear, the chief difficulty in night
shooting. Often, when alarmed,
the bear clings closely to the
branch, and it is next to impos
sible to make him out. On such
occasions I have sometimes found
that by pretending to depart, he
would uncoil himself and creep
down the tree, endeavouring to
escape on the opposite side, when
a rapid rush back round the tree
would often bring one within a few feet of bruin, whose
defeat and capture was then pretty certain. I remember
one old she bear, however, coming down to fight, who was
tumbled out of the tree from a height of, perhaps, fifty
feet. The cub, after an exciting chase about the grove
during which it was all but seized, ultimately escaped
into the forest; but I must pass rapidly over my adven
tures at this time.
Day and night did I labour to bring up my bag of
game of the season to a respectable figure. I usually lay
out on the hillside or forest all night; only descending to
my tent — pitched in the valley of Naboo — about mid-day
for bath and dinner.
The scenes of woodland and mountain; the forest in

42— d volley at John Barleycorn.

88 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
the early dawn; the pheasants crowing around one; then
the belling of a distant stag; the magnificent sunrise, and
the glories of awakened day, were some compensation
after a night of weary watching on the hill-top; or else
the majestic moon rising over the walnut tops; the deep
hush of the night awakened only now and then by the
crackling tread of the bear, or the boom of the great
horned owl from the deep woods; such are .the accessories
which delight the hunter's soul amidst the self-imposed
labours of his craft !
"Great Pan is (not) dead!" the old sylvan worship still
beats strong at the heart of the natural man, and one
might fancy that even yet his spirit may sometimes
lighten on the watcher by the solitary hill, "when the
stars of the north arise, and show their heads of fire!"
But it is not meet that civilised man should too far sur
render his spirit to such influences, fascinating and se
ductive though they be! I turn with a smile from the
recollections of those days, and at the enthusiasm which
led me, day and night, in pursuit of the wild denizens of
the forest and the mountain!
But during these wanderings, it may be asked, did no
ambition beyond the slaughter of the surly ursce  mis
chievous brutes though they be, and natural foes of the
sons of Triptolemus and Nimrod! — occur to thee, oh!
hunter? Did no visions of a happier future for this for
lorn country, ground to the dust by avarice and oppression,
dawn on thy "prophetic soul?"
Gazing on the charming landscape, did no pictures rise
of this fair land — the home of a happy peasantry; per
chance, in times to come, of cheerful English homesteads
amidst the orchards and walnut groves, in which the
Indian veteran might cultivate his plot of land and rear

Chapter 7.] Cashmere. 89
a healthy family; his robust sons, perhaps, following those
manly sports I have attempted to depict? No bad school
this for the future defenders of India! A fairer picture
this than Chunar and barrack life in the scorched-up
plains of India, and the poor soldiers' children carried
to an early grave in that howling wilderness, a garrison
graveyard! Aye, often! and before finally closing this
record of sport in Cashmere, I will take leave to present
in outline three sketches, or tableaux, of a future for the
valley which fancy paints, the details of which may be
left to the imagination of the reader to fill.
Picture I. — A golden sunset, and the western sun sink
ing beyond the purple mountains of Cashmere, lighting
up the snows of the Pir Pinjal and the arms of a victorious
host, triumphant amidst the crimson peaks.
II. — A gala day at Srinugger! The summer sun glanc
ing on the blue waters of the dhull (city lake) and its
tributary meres! A land teeming with plenty; its marshes
drained and productive! Thousands of fat cattle and
fleecy sheep grazing on the rich pasture lands ; and golden
grain waving on every nook and "coign of vantage." The
blue smoke of rural cottages and (English?) homesteads
curling through the foliage; and peace and plenty crown
ing the fair valley!
III. — The clouds of threatened war and danger to the
State! Cashmere — fortified by us — a self-contained out
work or fortalice complete in itself. The great north-west
bastion of India! Its commissariat overflowing, ready to
equip armies presently to descend full of health and
strength and confidence on any foe advancing by the
old conquerors' routes towards Hindostan.
The curtain may now fall for the present upon these
vaticinations of a possible future for the "Vale of
Cashmere."

90 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
I remember that on the day I emerged from the
Wurdwun Mountains, after a tramp of some thirty miles
after ibex — my baggage being nowhere — I was overtaken
by night in the forest, under the pass at the head of the
Naboo Valley. At length I arrived at the hut in the
forest where A. and I had finished the musk deer in the
spring. Here I heard from a shepherd that the camp of
the Lord Sahib* was a little further down the forest.
Being famished, I determined to push on and get some
supper, when I found that the illustrious stranger was
none other than my young brother officer, Lord Fergus
K, who of course did all that hospitality demanded. He
produced some excellent Scotch whiskey, and a jolly
night we made of it over the pine wood fire. We sat till
a late hour relating mutual adventures, by which time
my tent and baggage had struggled into camp. I don't
remember having ever enjoyed an unexpected supper
more than this at the old log hut in the Naboo forest,
after my solitary month's hunt in Wurdwun.
* The native style for the H. E. Governor-General of India.

43— LOG HUT IN THE NABOO FOREST.

OMi

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at

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al»

IX.-THE DEAD STAG.

Chapter 8.] Cashmere. 91

CHAPTER VIII.
Preparing to leave Cashmere valley — A final Hunt —
Return journey over the Pir Pinjal — Aknoor and
Jummoo — Historical Notes — Moolvie (Doctor) Mah-
boob Ali of Lahore, and Misr Dass of Srinugger
introduced to the reader — Religious tenets— Waha-
bees — Sikhs — etc.
THE time had now arrived for my return journey to
the plains of the Punjaub. The weather was still
fine, but the peaks of the Pinjal appeared every day more
white with snow. I accordingly gave orders for the con
centration of my baggage at Islamabad, to which point I
sent on my camp and most of my followers, simply re
taining one shikari (hunter) and one coolie with me. I
then literally "took to the woods" for a final hunt. I
chanced, however, upon the camp of a friend who was,
like myself, still delaying his journey downwards to see
out the last of the stag shooting that year. I was by
him hospitably entertained and sheltered one day and
night, but after a short day's hunt together we separated,
and I again took to the woods. I stalked several bara
sing on this ground, but with poor success. I was re
warded, however, with some magnificent glimpses of the
valley from the south-eastern spurs of the Kotyhar
Mountains. There are numerous pine-clad bluffs impinging on the
valley terre-plein of Cashmere above Changos and Echibul.
I recollect one especially fine view of the valley from near
this point — a full sweep of the eye as far as the gorge of
Baramoola at the west end of the valley, distant sixty
miles. A herd of deer were grouped at sunset on the

92 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
crest of the ridge overlooking the karewah of Martund
and its venerated Temple of the Sun,* on which the orb
of departing day was pouring floods of light; the purple
gloaming of the distance bringing the forms of the deer
into strong relief. I could not find it in me to hunt the
grand old stag, who seemed to stand forth clear above
the rest in the sky-line, the patriarch of the herd. I re
frained from disturbing this sylvan picture; and gazed at
the group and the fair scene around and beyond them till
the falling shades of evening hid them from my sight,
and the rising moon warned me to seek my camp couch
amongst the dry autumnal ferns.
After several days hunting in the forests above Changos
and Echibul, I descended from the hills of Kotyhar, and
joined my followers and baggage at Islamabad.
I commenced my march downwards, towards the plains
of the Punjaub, on the 15th of October (1851).
I again passed over the Pir Pinjal by the same route
* See Appendix II.

44— VIEW OF THE CASHMERE VALLEY.
Troop of deer at sunset.

Chapter 8.] Cashmere. 93
traversed in the spring with my dear companion A. I
could not but contrast the autumnal foliage of the fall of
the year with the green verdure of spring as we had then
beheld it. I think I inclined to prefer the "wild fresh
ness of morning!" but Nature is always beautiful, as the
poet sings — •  Nature never did betray
The heart that loved her ; 'tis her privilege
Through all the years of this our life, to lead
From joy to joy ; for she can so inform
The mind that is within us, so impress
With quietness and beauty, and so feed
"With lofty thoughts, that neither evil tongues,
Rash judgments, nor the sneers of selfish men
Shall ere prevail against us, or disturb
Our cheerful faith, that all which we behold
Is full of blessings. Therefore let the moon
Shine on thee in thy solitary walk ;
And let the misty mountain wind be free
To blow against thee —
The moon did shine on me in my "solitary walk" across
the Pir Pinjal. The "misty mountain wind" — aye, snowy
— did blow against me as I passed the Pir; on which, in
fact, a severe snow storm overtook me and my party.
Men have been lost ere now on that dreary snow field.
This very year many of Golaub Sing's soldiers, crossing a
little later in the year, were lost in the snow of the Pir
Pinjal. I was, in fact, much hampered on this march by
several of Golaub Sing's regiments, which were about this
time passing down towards Jummoo, on their return
march from Chilas, which fortress had fallen to their
arms that summer. I was several times in their camp,
and on one occasion bivouacked in their midst amongst
the boulders of the stream near Aknoor — a night I shall
not readily forget! On getting into the lower hills I
"marched with the moon;" a frequent practice of mine
at that period of my life; and, indeed, till very recently,
I have often made "moonrise" my hour of start. This

94 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
is a good plan in the glowing East, and will sometimes
convey a completely new impression of a hackneyed line
of road.
At length I reached Jummoo, and there was received
by the Maharajah's Wuzzeer, a shabby old fellow, but
courteous and kind in his way, inasmuch as he sent back
coolies to bring on my baggage, which was foundered on
the road near Aknoor, and he facilitated also my wish to
see the fort and city of Jummoo. I was even invited to
hunt Golaub Sing's pre- df&m a o-
serves near Jummoo, -^^R'-fe -^feyilk
which are full of "cheet- -*f|b'. ftfe
ul"-spotted or fallow Sfr WF&
deer. Wild hogs also lV
are found; they cross the _,. ,,_,,., ,, . ...  ., „.
stream sometimes into ""
45 — Cheetul, or fallow deer.
the open cultivated fields
during the night, and are often to be intercepted before
their return home to their lairs in the forest in the early
morning. At this time, however, as my time was short,
I had to decline the opportunity. One evening, how
ever, I went out with my rifle and saw several "cheetul"
vanishing into the forest glooms.
Jummoo itself is a poor place, although the alternative
seat of government of Maharajah Golaub Sing of Cash
mere, to whom I had been presented in the spring, and
had received at his hand sundry civilities. He was in
outward appearance a jolly old fellow; more like a British
country squire than an Eastern potentate. He would
affect the sportsman at times, and turn out in buff leather
from head to toe. The old chief would, at such times,
ride and shoot with the foremost, and was a capital shot.
I must confess I liked the old man as a favourable sample
of a native chief, and I am aware that Sir Henry Law-

Chapter 8.] Cashmere. 95
rence, then Resident of Lahore — whose keen judgment of
natives was well known — always thought well of Golaub
Sing; but I am bound to admit that most of his cotem-
poraries, and especially his subjects, considered him an
awful old screw, and cruel when occasion offered.
There are several points of interest along this route.
It was at Heerpore, below the pass on the valley side,
that the Pathan Governor, Jubbur Khan, was defeated in
1819 by Rungeet Sing's General, Dewan Misr Chand;
and in the gorge below Poshiana, on the cisnivcan side of
the Pinjal, is the fort or post of Barumgulla, then held
by the Sikhs, and often the point of contact of Cashmerie
armies with their invaders.
Along the ravine of the Barumgulla River are several
beautiful cascades, and all the grand features of an Alpine
pass are presented. I counted twenty-eight bridges across
the stream passed on the march to Thanna from this
point. Thence one recrosses the Rutton Pir, the last
considerable ridge between Poonch and the Chibhal.
From a point near this the Sikh army diverged in the
invasion of 1819, and making a flank march by the Kuri
and Sedau Passes, emerged from the Pinjal in rear of
Jubbur Khan's defending force, and so taking him in
reverse at Deopore — near Heerpore on the valley side —
put him to flight. He and his Pathan garrison fled the
country by the Baramoola route towards Cabul; Runjeet
Sing then took possession of the valley of Cashmere and
annexed it to his kingdom.
It was on the road between Thanna and Rajorie also
that Jehangire, the "magnificent son of Akbar," died in
his litter in the year 1627. He was carried on to Lahore
for burial by his widow, the lovely Noor Mahal. Many
a pleasant afternoon has the writer of these sketches
passed in the precincts of the mausoleum at Shadera

96 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
across the river Ravi, near Lahore, in the old times of
the Sikh Durbar, — times when the young Maharajah
(Dhulleep Sing) cetat. 8, used to come round to all at
tending Durbar with the Koh-i-noor in his hands, and
one used to lift his highness on to one's knee and examine
the world-renowned gem. The whole of this route is full
of historic associations, to which my subsequent reading
gave me the clue, and which I did not fail to avail myself
of on revisiting the country the succeeding summer; in
fact, during this and the succeeding season I examined
nearly every pass leading into the Cashmere Valley. In
the years I write of this was new ground, and I believe I
was among the first in those days to examine the country
professionally, and write its history, which I did under
the auspices of that kind and unselfish man, Sir Henry
Lawrence, then Resident of Lahore, and always ready
with characteristic generosity to encourage any young
officer of his old corps. Much of my career has been
passed under the "cold shade of egotism," but I am glad
to have this passing opportunity of acknowledging kind
ness and assistance experienced in my youth from at
least one Indian magnate. Soon after this I arrived at
Lahore, and thence passed on to my military station in
the Punjaub.
We shall now see our worthy friend F. — for worthy I
trust he may be called, if an honest heart and a mind
unclouded by shams can confer the title — "shuffle off this
mountain coil," the ragged coat and wonderful hat of the
forest life, and don the attire of the noble corps of fire
workers, and amid the duties of military life in camp,
and the thunders of the big guns, forgetting the Free man
of the woods, saving the memory that such things were.

The Revd. Moolvie (Doctor) "Mahboob Ali"— Mahom-

Chapter 8.] Cashmere. 97
edan Divine — must now be introduced to the reader. A
certain "Misr Dass," also a Brahmin of the florid vedic
type, in whose mikrocosm demons, demi-gods, cannibal
giants, and hobgoblins in general swarm like flies at
midsummer, appears on the stage.
"Let's hear all sides," remarked the judicial minded F.;
so took both these worthies into service as readers.
Many Shastrs (Hindoo scriptures) did I subsequently
hear read by this reader; pilgrimages did I note down —
some of which I afterwards myself verified — fabulous
myths, and "potential sequences," did I then hear evolved
from the moral consciousness of that metaphysical people,
the Hindoos of Cashmere. I afterwards — on revisiting
Cashmere the succeeding year — obtained the represent
ations of sundry supernatural personages embodied in
pictures, now in my possession. I am, perhaps, unappre-
ciative, but I have always failed to recognise the smallest
element of beauty or wisdom in the Hindoo Vedantic
mythology; and the validity of its symbolism I deny.
Perhaps I never went deep enough; though to the
fountain head as far as I did go! My dealings with this
wretched priest were unsatisfactory. Absurdly wedded
to the minute ceremonies of his sect — it was a sight for
instance to see him eat his dinner! — he was totally desti
tute of the large philosophy which is sometimes found in
his class, when — especially in their intercourse with
Europeans — they will sometimes drop priestcraft, and
admit their belief in the great truths which underlie all
creeds. "So adieu, great sir! here we part for the present.
"Oh, child of wisdom! remember the sporting king who
"was killed by the spectral jackal; so do thou remain
"safe in the city, and keep the edge of thine eye on
"manuscripts, oh, nephew of a sage! We will complete
"our history next summer. Oh, friendly one, farewell.
"Safety to you, oh Misr Dass!" h

98 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
I revert to Mahomedan sources of information as, on
the whole, more trustworthy and enlightened.*
The Revd. "Mahboob Ali" stands near, stroking his
beard gravely, looking intensely wise, but otherwise con
templating the Brahmin without the least expression of
any kind. Now friend Mahboob is at heart a "Wahabee,"
a Mahomedan purist — not exactly of the Arabian type —
but a class greatly on the increase of late years in the
Punjaub. I may, perhaps, describe him as a Deist, who
from the calendar of Mahomedan saints selects his
patron; differing from the Sufees of Persia in that they
accept the Koran and its moral dogmas. I may here
mention that many Punjaubies, including most of the
old Sikh sirdars (chiefs) are, if anything, Deists; but the
Sikh nation at large — originally Unitarian — from want
of spiritual guidance has retrograded towards Hindooism,
and lapsed from the pure doctrine of its virtuous founder
Nanak — without doubt a great spirit — who in a tyran
nical and priest-ridden age, being born a Hindoo, could
dare to enunciate two such principles as the "Unity of
the Deity," and the "Equality of Man," his two funda
mental dogmas.f
This so-called sect of Wahabees, at the time I write of
(1852), in the Punjaub at any rate, seemed free from the
slightest political acerbity. There certainly was not a
trace of it in the character of Mahboob Ali, rather a
learned man, who — though I knew him for a most heter-

* I exempt from this remark that fine epic the "Ramayana," and
several of the ancient Vedas, with also, perhaps, parts of the "Maliab-
arat;" the former of these especially would do honour to any literature.
It is to the more modern Shastrs that my strictures more particularly
apply. t This was written originally about 1860. I am not sure that we, as
a nation, are quite devoid of blame in having allowed a great Unitarian
people, our staunch allies in troublous times, to lapse to idolatry.

Chapter 8.] Cashmere. 99
odox Mahomedan* — used to preach in the regimental
mosque every Friday. He had been sent to me by the
late lamented Sir Henry Lawrence, then Resident of
Lahore, and being acquainted with Persian, Cashmerie,
and Sanskrit, was most useful to me as a translator. He
remained with me many months, and, I think, accom
panied me to Cashmere the next season, or rather met
me there on my arrival in the valley. During the ensu
ing winter and spring this excellent divine and I, from a
quantity of manuscripts procured by me in Cashmere,
puzzled out a sort of history of the country, an abbrevi
ation of which is given in an Appendix to this Section.
I may add that whilst the greater portion of the Hindoo
annals previously touched on must be pronounced myths
and fables, I believe the sketch of the Mahomedan history
subsequent to the year a.d. 1300 may be considered au
thentic; and, as far as it goes, historically true. The
original is to be found in the Journal of the Asiatic
Society of Bengal for 1854.
* For instance, he placed Jesus Christ in his calendar before his own
prophet Mahomed, and selected him as his patron saint on the ground
that it was better to convince men by mild reason and virtuous example,
than by the sword ; and this opinion he by no means set forth to please
me, as he would be very insistent at times on his own opinions, and
never would he acknowledge Jesus Christ as beyond a "prophet of God."
"Tliere is no God but God! Adam was the companion of God. Moses
"was the mouthpiece (or oracle) of God. Jesus Christ was the soul of
"God ! Mahomed was the sword of God !" Such was the "calimah" or
profession of faith of the Revd. Doctor Mahboob Ali of Lahore, Mahom
edan divine.
w i llfc
46— old pathan bridge. h2

100 The Highlands of India. [Section l.

CHAPTER IX.
Revisit Cashmere — Valley of the Chdndrabhdga — Pil
grimages — Fabulous account of the River Jhelum
or Vetasta — Gool-Merg and the Pine Forests of the
Pir Pinjal — An Earthquake on horseback — Baba
Pam Rishi and the Hermits of Cashmere — The
Marishes of Hakrisir — The Mdnasbul and Gunga
bul Lakes — "Hara-Mookh" Mountain — The Temples
of Razdan and Lar.
A YEAR has elapsed, and again I find myself in the
late autumn of the succeeding year (1852), after
long wanderings, in the fair Valley of Cashmere. I had
visited the valley of the Sutlej as far as Kunawur; thence
I crossed into Kulu, and travelling by Spiti, Lahoul,
Zanskar, and the Pangee country, emerged from the
valley of the Chandrabhaga* (Chenab), vid Kishtewar, in
the middle of August. Of this trip I kept a separate
journal, and as the countries traversed are scarcely em
braced in Cashmere territory, I reserve it. In consequence
of a severe attack of illness, which caught me in Lahoul,
I had been debarred success in ibex shooting, such as I
had proposed to myself, amongst those dreary glaciers
which divide the Lahoul valley from Rupshu and Zan
skar. In the valley of Gurput I lay three days very ill
from jungle fever, and had some difficulty in making my
way out across the lofty Pass of Godur into the valley of
the Chandrabhaga. I felt, however, that there was no
alternative but to push on for Cashmere, and get out of
these "oojar" (desolate) regions as soon as possible.
* For illustrations of the Valley of the Chandrabhaga see Section II. ,
Chap. III.

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Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 101
Being a Hindoo country, where neither fowl, eggs, nor
milk were procurable, and as I was unable to shoot owing
to illness, I was half-starved, and with difficulty sustained
my strength during my forced march down to Kishtewar;
during which also I was caught in the rains and got
wetted to the skin every day. By three changes of
coolies, however, I managed nearly twenty miles daily;
and I did at length — by way of Kishtewar, Mogul Maidan,
and over the "Meribul" Pass into Cashmere — reach Sri
nugger, on the 16th August, where for a fortnight I had
to lay up, being desperately weak and ill.
The scenery along the valley of the Chandrabhaga is
simply magnificent. Lofty slopes, thousands of feet in
elevation, lock in this grand mountain river; some bare
and grassy, almost precipitous bluffs, others clothed with
glorious forests of pine and deodar cedar; the rushing
Chandrabhaga roaring along far below on its headlong
course towards the plains ; and above, occasional glimpses
of the rugged glaciers of Zanskar which glitter in the
horizon; the whole forming a grand mountain diorama,
as one passes down the valley.
Above Kishtewar one enters the territory of the Maha
rajah of Cashmere, who makes a considerable income by
floating down logs of pine and deodar timber as far as
Aknoor, where it is caught and sold to the Punjaub
government. I observed a considerable number of thar antelope on
the slopes above the Chandrabhaga, on both sides of the
river, near Kishtewar, but was unable at this time to stalk
them. This is the only locality in Cashmere territory
where this game is to be found, except, perhaps, occasion
ally a few in the Pinjal near Banihal.
I employed my time during convalescence in investi
gating the history and antiquities of the valley, and I

102

The Highlands of India.

[Section I.

had opportunities of thus verifying points which my
reading during the past winter had suggested; my guide,
philosopher, and friend in this being Misr Dass, a Brah
min already introduced to the reader, who also intro
duced me to many local places of interest in or about
the city previously overlooked, — in fact, Srinugger
abounds in points of archeological and even architectural
interest.* It was on this occasion, also, that I took Notes
on Pilgrimages in the Country of Cashmere, published
in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal for 1866,
several of which I myself had already followed, and the
most important of which I undertook not long after.
I may as well here give a few extracts from the paper
alluded to, as tending to give one a passing glimpse of
Cashmere superstitions and localities. The "Pilgrimage
of 'Amr-Nauth" has already been indicated (Chapter
VI.), and almost immediately after leaving "the city" —
* See Appendix III.

it— THE CITY OF SRINUGGER, FROM THE SAFR-KUDDUL.

Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 103
presently to be noticed — I followed the steps of the
"Pilgrimage of Hur-Muktur-Gunga." Besides these long
and important pilgrimages, I find the details of eleven
others into various parts of Cashmere, varying in length;
that to the sacred lake of Gungabul under the Hur-xMookh
peak being next longest. Several of the minor pilgrim
ages, however, involve a graver issue to the devotee.
Space will not permit me here to do more than note the
salient points of a few of these.
The pilgrimage of Hur-Muktur-Gunga (or Gungabul)
in the Lar Pergunnah, above alluded to, is to be found in
the Gunga Mahatim Shastr, and will be described at the
proper place, further on in this chapter.
The last pilgrimage, of which I have noted the details,
may, perhaps, be almost more properly called a fabulous
account of the river Vetasta, as I am not aware that it is
at any time undertaken by the Hindoos of Cashmere, and
I rather think that some of the places named are under
the waters of that river.
On the 2nd September I had sufficiently regained my
strength to proceed to Gool-Merg to establish my health,
and accordingly embarked on the river on that date.
During the few succeeding days I explored a good many
creeks and nooks of this strange winding intramontane
stream, so I will at this place give the fabulous Hindoo
account of its origin, the steps of which also correspond
with the pilgrimage as noted.
I extract exactly as I find it in my notes.
"Fabulous account of the origin of the river Jhelum or
Vetasta." —
"Mahadeo being engaged in self-contemplation, Raja
"Bhagerut arrived, and prayed for a nag or spring in
"which to bathe and be cleansed from his sins. A stream
"then issued from the head of the Destroyer, which, on

1, Siva. 2, Eaja Bhagerut. 3, Kalneemie Assur.

iS-HINDOO PICTURE EMBLEMATIC OF THE CREATION OF THE RIVER
JHELUM OR VETASTA.

Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 105
"arriving at Wampoo, was swallowed by a certain demon
"rejoicing in the name of Kalneemie Assur. A second
"spring was in like manner swallowed by the thirsty
"demon. Whereupon Raja Bhagerut descended from his
"place of prayer at Vetasta Khoond and engaged the
"demon, whom, after a brisk encounter — described in the
"graphic language of the Sanskrit ring — [sic in MS.] he
"is stated to have injured, but was unable to destroy or
"drive away. [Kalneemie Assur had probably graduated
"in the Vedic art of self-defence!] In fact, it seems a
"polite way of stating that the Raja got the worst of it,
"as the demon is stated to have given chase, and to have
"come up as far as Hurnag (Virnag) in pursuit. At this,
"however, the wrath of the Destroyer was aroused. He
"encountered the demon, got his head 'in chancery,' and
"finally 'grassed' him, and slew him.* Siva (or Mahadeo)
"then commanded the spring to follow Bhagerut Raja,
"who, descending the valley, passed successively — 1,
"Kanibul; 2, Lumbooderi Tirat; 3, Deokieyar; 4, Bejbi-
"harrie; 5, Sungum; 6, Shriya; 7, Mullyar; 8, Gunputyar;
"9, Soomyar; 10, Baramoola, the residence of Raja Bhag-
"erut; and where the pilgrimage terminates.
"Thus far my notes. — These places represent the course
"of the river, and seem nearly identical with those de-
" tailed in No. 10 Pilgrimage, but as they are noted as
"separate I so transcribe them. I may mention that the
"notes from which the above pilgrimages have been taken
"were made twenty years ago, and in a few instances
"may contain inaccuracies, as my almost total ignorance

* I have in my possession a picture of this event, where Mahadeo is re
presented as literally sitting on his face. I am unable to translate with
sufficient unction the various phases of this grand passage of arms or
wrestling match between the two champions, and I hope the Society
will pardon the terms employed as "equivalents."

106 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"of Sanskrit may have led me to misunderstand, in some
"instances, the translator, who read to me in Persian his
"own versions of the Brahminical fables. For myself, I
"confess to an utter distaste for this especial branch of
"research. The Hindoo religion, as interpreted by its
" wretched representatives of the present day in Cashmere,
"seems a base alloy, and a corrupt and paltry veneer-
"ing over the fables — themselves absurd enough — of the
"later Shastrs. The original grand and pure moral code
"of Menu seems quite lost sight of; priestcraft and abject
"superstition have, of course, stepped in and vitiated
"fables already sufficiently gross and material in their
"symbolical Vedantism, whilst the petty ceremonial cus-
"toms and observances of modern Hindooism can only
"excite ridicule and disgust in the mind of the student.
"I have long desisted from the uninviting pursuit, and it
"is with much distaste that I have now transcribed — from
"notes and data long since collected — these few details,
"which, however, I was unwilling should altogether be
"lost, as they may tend to guide abler scholars to deeper
"research than I was ever able to make; and possibly in
"some of the localities alluded to, inscriptions or other
"fragments of interest to the Society might be found.
"Apologizing for the fragmentary character of this paper,
"I will now bring it to a close, as the subject has been,
"as far as I am concerned, exhausted."
During this autumn I visited Gool-Merg, Tosi-Maidan,
Hara-Mookh, Manasbul, etc. The architecture of Puthun,
Pyach, Pandrethun, and other temples of the Aryan
order — as defined by Cunningham— attracted my notice,
and I was even enabled to add somewhat to the stock of
knowledge on the subject.* The ruins submerged in the
* 1 may indicate the notes on the "Temples of Razdan, or Eazdoing,"
in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, vol. xxxviii., 1869 ; the
original of which was gleaned by me during this autumn.

Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 107
marishes of Hakrisir and the Sinde River, whose weird
scenes were viewed by me during that autumn, also added
a new phase of interest to my travels. Let me pass on,
^p^aSfgB^^^gs==;i=====ggy ¦ —  -i ho we vor. I
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ffi^S^SIili^KBliii.i):, its^j^X' !ii|(i| note that most
'-- - __ ' J < ' J-W of these ex-
- —Sl„- , - .. ' ' . ' ^ifit1 plorations will

proper place
49— Sanbul, on the River Jhelum. further On.
The lovely hill, or rather rolling prairie, of Gool-Merg
— beloved of Jehangire and his spouse, the fair Noor
Mahal — needs no description. Its name, Hill of Flowers,
sufficiently denotes its aspect. It is close under the
Firozepore Pass which leads to Poonch; and on the flank
of this road lies Tosi-Maidan, where Runjeet Sing in per
son was repulsed in 1814 by Mahomed Azim Khan, the
Barukzai Governor of Cashmere. These places are en
circled by the pine forests of the Pinjal, and the views of
the valley are very fine from the salient points hereabouts.
Poshkur also may be noticed; a conical hill in the
Dyosu Pergunnah, around which was fought, in 1512, the
great battle which restored the legitimate king, Mahomed
Shah, to the throne of Cashmere; but it were endless to
denote each spot where warring tribes met in arms and
fought for power in this fair, peaceful scene. As I write,
a military map, made by me long since — whereon is noted
each battle mentioned in history for the last five centuries
— r-is before me, and it is fairly studded with the vermillion
cross-swords. As I am not here writing a strategic his
tory of Cashmere I pass on.
The Monastery of Baba Pam Rishee — Father Greybeard

108 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
— immediately below Gool-Merg, may be noted as an in
stance of a fact frequently noticed in Cashmere — that of
a Mahomedan and Hindoo worshipping at the same shrine.
This unusual practice may be attributed on the one hand
to the Mahomedan in some degree clinging to the super
stitions of his ancient Hindoo ancestors, and on the other
to the fact that fragments of many overthrown or ruined
Hindoo temples have been used in building the Mahom
edan mosque or zearut. Baba Pam Rishee was a minister
of the king Zein-ul-aboodeen. One day observing "ants"
carrying grain to their stores he fell into meditation, and
became impressed with the necessity of "laying up stores
for the life to come." He accordingly renounced the
world, and established his hermitage in the Bongil Per
gunnah, close under the lovely plain of Gool-Merg. I
recall that on the day I arrived there I was caught by an
earthquake while riding on horseback: very strange I
found it; I might almost call it a "new sensation!" my
horse staggering about under me as though about to lie
down, and the cause of this unusual conduct never occur
red to me till I arrived at Baba Pam Rishee, when I
found I had encountered an earthquake en cavalier!
There are in Cashmere numerous traces of the sites of
the "cauma'ahs" (cells) of these Hermits; an interesting
sect, of whom I published "some account" in the Journal
of the Asiatic Society of Bengal in 1866. They mostly
affected picturesque and romantic spots for their zearuts
or shrines; and I believe I may as well here give a few
excerpts from my paper on this subject: —
"The worship of the Tree and Serpent — that mystic
"and primitive form of superstition — entered largely into
"the character of the religion, and may have in its sylvan
"proclivities in some degree influenced these Mahomedan
"Rishees or Hermits in the solitudes. I would further

Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 109
"add that the tendency to seclusion so characteristic of
"Budhism, may have also influenced these solitaires. We
"have an instance of the Cave of Bhima Devi, near Mar-
"tund, formerly the residence and burying-place of the
"ascetic king, Areer Rhyie, who lived about A.D. 330,
"being adopted for a similar purpose by Mahomedan
"faqueers in modern times, but the tomb pointed out as
"that of Areer Rhyie, who was probably a convert to the
"Budhistic schism, is most likely that of some more
"modern recluse.
"Deeply imbued with the cMsm of the age and the
"country from which they emigrated, these Sayyids and
"their followers seem to have imported into Cashmere
"the doctrines of the Shiah sect, and with them that
"tendency to mysticism and miracle making so character-
"istic of the sect. Perhaps, also, shocked at the tyranny
"and self-assertion of Timoor Lang (Tamerlane), at that
"time dominant in Central Asia, they may have sought
"refuge in the regions of abstract thought as a solace for
"the worldly repression under which they laboured. Be
"it observed that the human mind has ever tended to-
" wards mysticism and solitude at times when tyrants
"flourished, and in the present case no doubt the wrath
"of Timoor had been aroused against these Sayyids, who,
"perhaps, may have attempted to usurp an independence
"of act and speech displeasing to a barbarous oriental
"conqueror. Be this as it may, they and their disciples
"appear to have found in Cashmere an apt soil in which
"to transplant their religious dogmas; and in the succeed
ing years, the remarkable sect of which I am giving a
"short account arose from amidst them.
"Previous to the advent of Sayyid Ali, however, the
"noted Faqueer, Bulbfil Shah, had appeared in Cashmere,
"and been instrumental in the conversion of Ranjpoe (or

110 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"Ranju Shah) to Islam. He is famed as the first Mos-
"lem who appeared in Cashmere. His original name was
"Sayyid Sharafuddin, and he was so holy that singing
"birds (bulbuls) are said to have nestled in his hair and
"beard. At his instigation, Ranju Shah is stated to have
"built the first mosque ever constructed in Cashmere.
"Bulbul Shah died in a.h. 727 (ad. 1327).
"Shaikh Nuruddin, whose zearut is still extant in the
"Trahul Pergunnah, is stated to have 'repented' at thirty
"years of age, and to have lived for twelve years in the
"wilderness, marvellously subsisting on grass. After that,
"he sustained life on one cup of milk daily, and finally
"reduced himself to water alone for two and half years,
"when he died. He was born in the reign of Qutbuddin,
"about the time of Sayyid All's advent in Cashmere, as
"is expressly recorded in the histories."
Baba Pam Rishee has been already alluded to, — the
mention of him led to these extracts being made.
"Sayyid Mahomed Hicdri was another of these her-
"mits: he was a Sayyid, and follower of Mir Mahomed
"Hamadani. Of him is related the following story, —
"having fallen into a trance, a copious stream of water
"flowed down from his sleeves and garments. On en-
"quiry as to this phenomenon, the Sayyid stated that one
"of his murids (disciples) was on a voyage to Mecca, and
"that his ship was sinking, whereupon he had prayed to
"his Pir Murshid (spiritual director) for help, which he
"(Sayyid Mahomed Hicari) had accorded, having, in
"spirit, plunged into the water to his assistance, hence
"the water from his garments.
"Sayyid Mahomed Nurist&ni was distinguished in the
"building of the Jami' Masjid. It appears that the
"foundation kept sinking, and would not hold together
"till this Sayyid appeared and personally applied to the

Chapter 9.3 Cashmere. Ill
"work. He is also stated to have relieved indigent per
sons by converting a lump of clay into gold.
"Sayyid Mahomed Madan detected by intuition dishes
"composed of game improperly killed (not haldl), and
"unlawful for food.
"Mir Husain Mantiqi, the logician, son of Sayyid
"Mahomed Amir Mantiqi, went to visit the king (Zein-
" ul-aboodeen), and found him surrounded by women and
"musicians; whereupon, being displeased, he plunged into
"a river of water, and was apparently lost, but shortly
"afterwards — on the king approaching his home — he saw
"the Sayyid calmly sitting reading.
"Baba Haji A'dam, a companion of Shaikh Nuruddin,
"produced salt, by a miracle, from the Pir Pinjal.
"Nuri Rishi. A miracle similar to that of the 'loaves
"and fishes' is recorded of this hermit.
"Baba Latifuddin, son of a chief of Murardwin. His
"name before conversion to Islam was Laddy Reyna.
"Rauni Baba lived to the age of 120, during 109 years
"of which he fasted (rozah) by day.
"Baba Zain-uddin Rishi. His cauma'ah (cell) in the
"Khawlpare, where a spring of water is said to have spon
taneously gushed forth for his use; and many others are
"noticed. "This brings me to the end of the notes I have taken
"on the subject of the Hermits or Rishees of Cashmere,
"and I almost regret that my notes on the subject are so
"brief. "Without having inaugurated much philosophy, or
"displayed marked learning, these holy men seem, in the
"main, to have been actuated by motives of piety, and a
"desire for moral advancement. We might smile at the
"weak credulity which has invested their memories with
"the attributes of superhuman wisdom and power, had

112 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"we not parallel examples in sects of our own faith. We
"may fairly credit to many of them lives of purity and
"moral excellence. Dwelling amidst scenes of natural
"beauty and grandeur, the wild freshness of nature seems
"to have touched their hearts with something of its
"kindred influences. In them, far beyond most orientals,
"do we recognise some germ of the romantic spirit of the
"north and love of the picturesque, which we fail to trace
"in the southern Shemitic races, but gleams of which
"sometimes crop out in the Tatar and Mogul tribes. To
"complete this fragmentary sketch, views of the localities
"and zearuts alluded to would be requisite, as tending to
"shew the picturesque solitudes into which the musing
"spirit of these recluses led them to wander. We need
"not wonder at the choice of such retreats by calm and
"God-fearing men, where amidst some of the most glor
ious scenery this earth contains, they could taste of
"simple pleasures, exercise free thought, and 'look from
"nature up to nature's God.'" Thus much my notes on
the "Hermits of Cashmere."
During September I found myself wandering amongst
the sedgy marishes of Hakrisir (lake of weeds and water-
nuts) to Manasbul (the mind-born) lake. On the shores
of this beautiful lake I remained
sketching, not yet finding myself SSi?
strong enough to undertake the
high-hill expedition I contem
plated. I visited Lar, Keer
Bhowani, Toolamoola, anl other
curious nooks about the creeks

of the Sadipoor and Kanibul j*»-3*iiasss5s-
, T ... 60— Toolamoola (Mahomedan).
reaches. 1 see various fantastic
legends in regard to some of these places noted in my
journal, but they scarce seem to merit much notice.

Chapter 9.]

Cashmere.

113

Toolamoola is a Mahomedan shrine amidst rather pic
turesque surroundings, where also specimens of very fine
wood work are to be seen.
At Keer Bhowdni there
is a tank, which — being
probably manipulated by
the Brahmins — holds var
ied coloured water on con
secutive days. When I
saw it the colour was a
deep indigo blue. At this
place the goddess Bhow
ani is fabled to have migrated in the form of a "mos
quito!" — a weird superstition — and the fell characteristics
of the cruel earth goddess are amply vindicated in the
act! for the mosquitoes of Keer Bhowani are really "too
utterly awful!"

51 — Keer Bhowani {Hindoo).

Taking boat I ex-
and even went round
Canal, and anchored
old chenar
and I had
the pre-
sailcd into

fflSBHr

mom

Old Houses on the Mar Canal, Cashmere City.

plored the Hakrisir,
the city by the Mar
one night under the
tree, where poor A.
lived so many days
vious year. Thence I
the dhull, and devoted
an entire day to sound
ing it. There is said
to be an unfathomable
well or "nag" here
abouts in the lake,
near the Hakrit-bul,
but the deepest water
I found in either of
the lakes was seven
teen feet. i

114

The Highlands of India. [Section I.

I pitched my
tent in the Na-
seem Bagh, and
havingsketchedmany points of
interest there
abouts, I sent
off my camp to
wards the Sinde
Valley. Here
beautiful foliage
is found, and
here again ex
amples of the
"vines on the
elms and pop
lars" can be ob
served. Next
day— 20th Sep
tember — started
on the "Pilgrim
age of Gunga
bul," or "Hur-Mooktur-Gunga," in the Lar Pergunnah. I
followed this pilgrimage as I had found it detailed in the
Gunga Mahatim Shastr* step by step, and viewed all the
fourteen points of snan or religious ablution. I think,
however, it would be tedious to the general reader to de
tail. Suffice to say of the fourteen places of snan, ten are
previous and four subsequent to the supreme and pious
act of casting the ashes of deceased relatives — previously
incremated— into the holy lake, in whose mournful waters

53— Vines growing over poplars, Cashmere.

* An account of this is contained in my "Notes on Pilgrimages in
Cashmere," in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, published in
July, 1866. For illustration, see frontispiece Chap. IX.

Chapter 9.] Cashmere. 115
lie the ashes of generations of Hindoos. It was not till
the 23rd of September, that, passing up the Valley of
Lar, by (1) Vecha-Khoond — the pool of the Creator or
Brahm, a willow-fringed pond — (2) Gandoor Nugger —
"City of the Gandoors or Angels," near which are some
ruined fragments on the shore of the Hakrisir, whence
I remember I viewed a wild, lurid sunset, reflected on
the sedgy pools of this strange morass, and (3) Nun-
noor, a beautiful village at the gorge of the Sinde
Valley, I arrived at (7) Mahulish-Merg — "the mea
dows of the buffalo." Here one turns out of the valley
up the mountain, passing the little Lakes of Brahmsir,
Ashiferoo, and Nandi-Kettur. Beyond this I at length
reached the term of the pilgrimage — Gungabul. "I shall
"not easily forget the impression the view of the cold,
"still waters of this lone, desolate lake produced on me,
"arriving, as I did, on its shores about sunset that autum-
"nal evening — a snow storm just setting in off the lofty
"granite peak of Hur-Mookh, its guardian mountain,
"whose dark shadow fell across the mournful waters of
"the lake." I was absolutely alone, having deviated from
the track to view the lake; and as snow began to fall, I
grew anxious to regain my camp, which I had sent down
the valley to sheltered ground. Snow was falling fast as
I turned away from this bleak solitude, but the moonlight
and the shouts of my followers guided me to my camp in
safety. The time of this pilgrimage is midsummer, so
the opportunity of observing the ceremony of final cast
ing of ashes was not afforded me. The noble peak of
Hur-Mookh from this point is most imposing; towering
to an altitude of 16,900 feet above the cauldron of grey
rock which shuts in this interesting lake, whose elevation
above sea level cannot itself be less than 10,000 or 11,000
feet. 12

116 The Highlands of India. [Section I-
Having reached the supreme point of the pilgrimage,
and performed the proper rites, the pilgrim commences
his return journey by a different route; and, after a long
and fatiguing march, quits the higher range of hills, and
descends to Nara-Nag (11) or Lake Getara. On the banks
of this pool — for it is little more — the pilgrims leave their
grass hill shoes (phoolas) and hill sticks, many of which
I observed lying about. This pool is closely adjacent to
some very remarkable ruins — those of "Razdoing." A
sonne, or mysterious afflatus, is supposed to proceed from
these ruins, a particular portion of which is held especially
sacred by the pilgrims, who there make their final salaam
before leaving the spot.
I devoted the 24th, 25th, and 26th of September to the
disentanglement from jungle and measurement of this
interesting group of temples, the only group of any im
portance not noticed by Cunningham in his learned and
masterly essay on the Aryan Order of Architecture; and,
as I communicated the results of my investigations to the
Asiatic Society in Bengal some years later, I may here
perhaps take the liberty of borrowing extracts from my
own words on the subject, as put forth in their Journal.
I must premise by stating that these ruins are over
grown with dense underwood and forest trees, and it was
only after much labour, and the employment of many
hands in cutting away, that I was able, in any degree, to
view them. Trees thirty feet high, or even more, are seen
growing from the roof of the principal temple.
I pass over the technical descriptions, which are to
be found minutely detailed in the paper on the subject,
and may say generally that "there are no less than six
"groups of buildings immediately around the principal
"temple, in the roof of which several large fir trees have
"taken root, presenting a singular appearance, the knarled,

Chapter 9. J Cashmere. 117
"twisted roots grasping the loose stonework, and their
"height being equal to that of the temple, which may be
"fifty or sixty feet." I have entered into a somewhat
elaborate discussion on the origin of these temples, which
need not here be given. They are probably of very dif
ferent dates; the most ancient being assigned to Jaloka
(250 B.c), of whom it is related in the "Raja Taringini,"
that "mounted on a dragon he was wont daily to visit
"the temples of Waramool, Bejbiharrie, and Lar," and I
conceive that by the last we may fairly infer that the
temples under consideration are alluded to, as there is no
other group one tenth so extensive to be found in the
Lar or Sinde valley.
The "Dragon" (Adjdaha) so frequently mentioned in
the ancient chronicles of Cashmere, appears to have been
a mechanical machine — a propeller of some kind — or
flying bridge. It might almost be regarded by a Celtic
believer in second sight as a prototype of a modern
steamer evolved from the moral consciousness of an an
cient Aryan race. We find that King Meegwahun, who
conquered Ceylon, Surat, etc., is stated to have passed his
army over the Indus (a.d. 22) by means of a serpent or
dragon (adjdaha), but the fabulous and quasi-historic are
so blended in the early chronicles that it is impossible to
dissever them. In the case of Jolaka's daily visit to the
three shrines, an aeronautic element seems to be implied;
but Jaloka is always mentioned as a magician king, pos
sessed of supernatural powers.
"Zein-ul-aboodeen," or Boodshah, is supposed to have
built a portion of the surrounding precincts: the same
king who constructed the Lank Island in the Wooler
Lake, mentioned before; and this may be easily credited,
it being a common practice of the Mahomedans thus to
turn to account existing Hindoo buildings and sites.

118 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
These ruins evidently possess very high antiquity, and
I arrived at the conclusion that part of them are amongst
the very earliest relics of Cashmere architecture, not ex
cepting that on the Takt-i-Suliman (or Sandhimana-
parvat), which is stated to have been built in its original
form by this very King Jaloka, but seems to have been
repaired and restored to its present form by Gopaditya,
about a.d. 250.*
I have already noticed in Chapter III. some fragments
of temples overwhelmed in the dense jungles near Bara
moola. I believe these have never been deemed of suffi
cient importance to merit disentanglement or description.
Nevertheless, I must consider them — with the ruins of
Razdoing, here cursorilly described — to be the very oldest
remnants of the ancient architecture of Cashmere; for, as
I have stated, the Temples of Bejbiharrie — mentioned in
the Raja Taringini with those of Lar and Baramoola as
already existing in the time of Jaloka — were overthrown
by the Mahomedan fanatic Shahabuddfn about the end
of the fourteenth century, and are out of contest for the
honour, such as it may be, of having survived the storms
of two thousand years, the attacks of Moslem fury, and
the overwhelming vegetation of the dense forest.
Before leaving this subject, I may add my belief that
in the deep forests of Cashmere, relics of a form of wor
ship anterior to the Brahminical may be found — such as
are seen at Bhadiakul in the Kamraj — and I have met
with isolated monoliths, altars, etc., in various parts of
the country, pointing to the ophistic worship of the tree
and serpent, anterior to historical times, when Cashmere,
in common with the other provinces of Hindosthan, was
colonized by the Aryan race.
* Ap Cunningham.

WWIMK III HI  iri:. ,/.*&>*& «

Pin

¦

MiMmt
mm

Chapter 10.] Cashmere. H9

CHAPTER X.
The Sinde Valley— Anecdotes— Stag Shooting— Cave of
Kuckaputtrie — Panoramic Views of the Valley-
Autumnal Aspects — Ebbing Springs — Return to the
City of Srinugger — Preparations for Departure —
Up the Jhelum— Pampoor— The Temples of Pand-
rethun, Kakapore, Pyach, Wentipur, and Bejbi-
harrie* — The Veshau River and Arabul Cascade —
Return across the Pinjal by the Seday, and Kuri
Passes — Lammergeyers — Young Bears — Jummoo,
etc. — Conclusion.
HAVING devoted so much time to archaeological ex
plorations, I suddenly reverted to field sport. On
27th September, having heard of a stag across the valley,
all the original hunter awoke within me, and I find my
journal for the next few days full of notes of bear hunting
along the valley of the Sinde and Lar, with an occasional
deviation up the hills after barasing stags. First, how
ever, I did carry through my project, and completed my
search after the Pilgrimage of Gungabul, by visiting the
remaining points of snan or religious ablution at (12)
Wangut, and (13) Woosun, etc., to the termination of the
pilgrimage at Vecha-Khoond.
These sketches purport to be a record of sporting ad
ventures, and I will not further deviate from my argument
save to say that along this Valley of Lar — especially under
the Zoji-La Pass — were fought the battles of the years
1539-57, between the native armies of Cashmere and the
invading hosts of Kashgurries under Syud Khan and
Mirza Hyder, alluded to under those dates in the His
torical Sketch Pass we on, then, down the valley.
* See Appendix II.

120

The Highlands of India. [Section I.

Bears at this season swarm in the thickets, and may
almost be "kicked up" at every step. They may also be
found in the walnut trees at night, here as in the other
districts of Cashmere, where walnuts grow.
I recollect an adventure with friend Barleycorn one
evening in this valley. I had wounded a bear, and fol
lowed him up to within
three or four paces dis-
ance in the thick jungle
— I had mounted specta-
c£esforthefirst(and last)
time in my life for shoot
ing; — suddenly my bear
jumped up, and whether
in person or by a pass
ing branch, knocked my
"specs" to atoms, there
by rendering me hors de
combat, being without
my customary eyeglass ! Luckily he — or she, I believe it
was — did not follow up her advantage, but effected a
tactical movement to the rear, and I believe in the end I
brought my "lady" to bag.
At one of these places, I think Teoun, I remember an
incident so illustrative of native misrule in those days,
that I will recount it. One evening I received a deputa
tion of the chief inhabitants of the large village where my
camp had arrived, to complain of the tyrannical conduct
of the maharajah's collector and soldiers, who, as they
stated, had not only mulct them of their last pice (far
thing), but had stripped the very trees of fruit — chiefly
walnuts — grubbed up their esculents, and "left them
nothing but grass (cuck) and leaves to eat!" I informed
them that I was a mere traveller, and not possessed of

^>j§l

^y^^'WjrT-J^TO^^

7^0m|

flllisIIPIil

54— Following up a wounded bear.
Chapter 10.] Cashmere. 121
any official character; I could not interfere, but would
take an opportunity on my return to Srinugger (the
capitol) of mentioning their grievance to the governor,
who that year (1852) was the maharajah's son, Prince
Runbeer Sing, with whom I had a slight acquaintance.
It appeared that the party of soldiers had only just left
the village, probably scared by the arrival of a British
officer's camp ; but one young rascal, a mere lad, had re
mained behind for a little private extortion, and I saw him
laying about him with a huge whip; not one of the great
burly peasants daring to make the least resistance. At
length, emboldened by impunity, he began to flog the
women of the village! This was more than I could stand.
Accordingly, snatching up a big stick, I ran after the
rascal, who took to his heels and bolted like a hare down
the valley after his party. I give this story for what it
is worth, as it carries its own moral. My Gurhwal shikari
— presently to be introduced — was very indignant, and
said "Had a sepoy of our rajah done such a thing we
"should have cut his hands off and sent him back to his
"master." I find from my journal that the groves of "Burnaboog,"
"Kootur," "Teoun," — also "Kioun," on the left bank of
the river — were all tried for bears with some success;
then — 5th October — an evening flitting across the moun
tains, into the Pak Pergunnah to Nagpoora, where I
pitched camp.
My object was stag shooting. I had already lost too
much time; so disregarding the more common and
humble game — bear (harput) I devoted all my energies,
now quite restored, to the barasing stag (hangloo). My
journal tells me that on the 6th October I was at the
village of Dartzigom, whence I made arrangements for a
three days' hunt of the higher forests above the Pak

122 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Pergunnah. When the moon rose — a frequent marching
time with me — about two that morning, I started up the
mountain with provisions ready cooked sufficient for
three days, so as to avoid the necessity of kindling a fire,
whereby the game might be scared. Before daybreak we
were well up the hill, and the stags began bellowing in
the woods all round, succeeded by the crowing of the
pheasants. As the light increased, I made out a herd of
barasing on the very edge of the forest; but they are the
wariest game that runs, and either saw, winded, or heard
me, and I got no chance. At this season the fallen leaves
are a great impediment to stalking the barasing; the least
sound of a footfall on the withered fallen leaves, or the
crackling of a broken twig, and he is off! I, therefore, at
once made for the cave on the top of the "Kuckaputtrie"
Mountain, my destined abode for the time of my hunting
this block of forest. This cave is a shallow natural recess

55— CAVE OF KUCKAPUTTRIE.

in the cliff, made as if specially for the accommodation of
sportsmen, by the hand of nature. The sketch will best
describe the place. I there established myself and fol-

Chapter lo.] Cashmere. 123
lowers. These consisted of (1) my Hindoo hunter, Soond-
roo of Gurhwal, (2) my Mahomedan hunter, Sher Khan,
with two baggage coolies or gun carriers.
The figure depicted sitting in the background, on the
edge of the precipitous cliff, or "kudd," commands a view
of miles of splendid forest, sloping down towards the foot
of Wuster-Wun (haunt of the barasing) whilst from a point
some hundred yards or so in front, one may gaze down at
the city of Srinugger almost at one's feet: the dhull lake,
with its gardens, islets, and interesting ruins intervening.
From this bluff, indeed, there is one of the finest panor
amas of the valley anywhere to be found. Shall I venture
to present it? What a scene!* The city looks distant
scarcely seven miles, and may not be much more as the
crow flies, though a good thirty miles by the footway down
the valley of the Pak Pergunnah.
On the 7th October I was, I find, bothered much by
the hinds of several herds I stalked — sentinels vigilant
and suspicious, like cunning old duennas as they are. At
length, after being baffled all day, losing all patience,
whilst nearing my cavern towards sunset, I selected "one
rather prominent sentry, and killed it. It proved to be a
small stag with little horns of one tyne. As it was dark,
I left him lying on the hill ready to hand for the morn
ing; first, however, covering him with branches of pine
to keep the beasts and birds of prey off.
I now transcribe from my journal: — "8th, in the rnorn-
"ing out, but unsuccessful until about nine; whilst
'"breaking up' the young stag of last night sighted afar
"a splendid stag 'travelling, but coming right up the
"ravine towards us. After a rapid stalk and a burst
"round the shoulder of the hill, we just intercepted him
"as, well breathed, he came over the dip of the hill face to
* See frontispiece, Chap. X.

124 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
"face. I rolled him over twice; but, even then, he man-
"aged to flounder into the thick and precipitous jungle,
"but was recovered at the water at a stream far below in
"the valley." One other stag was shot hereabouts, but
no other game was found. There were, indeed, traces of
Ramoo — the "surrow" of the Kumaon hills — but we did
not sight any. I let several bears go, as the mighty
"hanglo" was my quarry. One bear I was sorely tempted
to slay, having met him almost face to face twenty yards
off, at the spring — our only drinking place — a slender
stream head so small that it is kept clayed up by the
mountaineers, only a few of whom know of its existence,
and is only opened out on special occasions, when it
affords just sufficient water for a small camp; the next
nearest stream being miles away below.
I may here record that on the evening of our second
day out I gave in and allowed cooking. Some of the ribs
of the small fawn, roasted over the pine logs on the steel
ramrods as skewers, were delicious to hungry men.
It may not be known to some of my readers that Hin
doos are not permitted by their religion to eat kept pro
visions; or, indeed, bread unless daily prepared by their
own hands or those of their caste-fellows. Now this
Hindoo hunter, Soondroo, was alone — all his mates who
had accompanied me from Simla having got sick in
Zanskar, and gone back to Gurhwal from the Padur
valley. With Mahomedans it is different, and my other
hunter and gun carriers were quite "crowing over" the
unfortunate Soondroo, in whose character this peculiarity
as to food was nearly the only drawback. He was a first-
rate shikari and woodman — by far the best of my followers
— but being in a strange country, as I had brought him
with me through Spiti, Lahoul, Zanskar, etc., I had to
fight his battles against the jealousy of the native Cash-

Chapter 10.] Cashmere. 125
meries, who regarded him as poaching on their domain.
I say, then, that out of consideration for the appetite of
this poor fellow I gave in to the luxury of cooking flesh
— roast vension — and as I of course partook thereof, I
cannot say I regretted the concession. Soondroo, there
fore — who was becoming very yellow about the gills from
his enforced abstinence — soon recovered strength; and,
indeed, had it not been for his tracking and energy, I
should have lost my "stag of ten," which went down the
forest to the water, and was only recovered after a long
search. His head and antlers adorn my hall to the pre
sent day.
Here I ought to present to the reader a picture of the
magnificent panorama of the valley subtending this bluff
of mountain.* The full course of the Jhelum — from its
source at Virnag to its debouchment at Baramoola — its
tortuous windings through the verdant vale — its ramifi
cations and occasional enlargements into the two or three
lakes which it feeds before temporally lost in the great
Wooler Lake, may from this point be advantageously
viewed. Across the valley the wooded spurs and pine
forests also which clothe the northern slopes of the Pir
Pinjal, jutting down into the terre-plein of the valley;
the saffron grounds of Pampoor on our left; the glancing
waters of the dhull "garden-margined;" with the city,
and its picturesque suburbs, at our feet; the distant
Wooler Lake sparkling in the afternoon sun, bounded by
the purple mountains of Koh-i-hama and Durawur; with
the surrounding peaks of the Pir Pinjal, snow-capped,
glittering in the pure autumn air, crisp with the slight
frosts of approaching winter, are features which form a
magnificent amphitheatre — a picture of natural grandeur
and beauty combined — never to be forgotten! One of
* See frontispiece.

126 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
the most glorious mountain scenes I have beheld any
where — and I have seen many in my life! I class it in
my memory with that of the Alps from Milan cathedral;
of Kanchanjanga and its rosy sunlit peaks from the
plateau of Darjeeling; of the cone of Etna, hanging in
mid air, whilst its base lies obscured in the decomposed
light and purple glooms of evening; — all glorious moun
tain scenes to any one of which I find it hard to accord
the preference !
Well, to end this chapter: — I tried the Krawunzun
Hill. Altogether I find I secured three stags from this
beat, which is not ten miles, as the crow flies, from the
city, though two long marches — say thirty miles — by the
road. On the evening of the third day I descended to my
camp in the Pak Valley. I visited the spring "Gurdasir,"
which is said to disgorge fish at certain times, even when
snow is on the ground. It is, perhaps, connected in some
way with the Jhelum on the opposite side of the moun
tain! so the natives explain it. Many parts of Cashmere
are, in fact, honeycombed by subterranean fissures of an
extraordinary character; and the frequent vagaries of
some of these ebbing and flowing springs* are puzzling
* I may as well mention a few other springs noted in Cashmere. Be
sides Virnag and Echibul we have (1) Bdsakn&g in the Bringh Pergunnah,
which flows six months towards Cashmere, and six months towards Kish
tewar on the opposite side of the Pinjal ; (2) Sunherndg, in the Deosir
Pergunnah, which is said to flow once in eleven years, i.e. when Thurs
day falls in the house of the constellation Asud — so I understood the
rather obscure rendering in Persian of the Hindoo Shastr — the same
planetary conjunction which causes Suheyun (the burning ground) to
become so hot as to cook rice ; (3) Neelan&g, in the Nargaon Pergunnah,
where people try their fortunes by "the cast of the walnut." Echibul
is a well known mineral stream, supposed by some to be a resuscitation
of the lost Bringh river, and cornelian stones are said to be ejected from
the fountain of Wagohama, one of its affluents. Of course some of the
above are fabulous, but of the existence of ebbing and flowing springs
there is abundant evidence.

Chapter 10.] Cashmere. 127
to account for. The presence of much limestone rock,
whose cavernous, tunnelling qualities are known, may
perhaps partly explain some of these phenomena. We
watched some pools in the woods near the village of
Drapahamoo, but nothing came of it. There are said to
be leopards hereabouts, but I never saw one in Cashmere;
except, perhaps, once a snow-leopard on the Pir Pinjal.
My .time, however, was now getting short, and I had to
get back to the city to pack and make preparations for
my downward journey to the Punjaub; so I pushed on,
and arrived at Srinugger on the 10th of October.
Here I remained a few days, taking a last farewell of
scenes already visited, — many of its pleasant gardens and
shady environs — such as the Shalimar, Isle of Chenars,
etc.; the autumnal foliage of which now began to show to
advantage.

56— THE SHALIMAR GARDENS, CASHMERE.
Previous to my departure I had the honor of an inter
view with the Governor — Prince Runbeer Sing,* the heir
* Almost as I revise these words the news has arrived of Maharajah
Eunbeer Sing's death, at Jummoo, on 12th September, 1885.

1%8 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
apparent— during which I brought to his notice the in
cident mentioned at page 121. At this interview the
following scene occurred. I must, however, premise that
I was accompanied by a friend — Captain R.  , who
took occasion to exhibit to the prince some magnificent
water-color sketches he had taken of the country. In
the course of the interview I remarked: "Travellers come
a long way to view your Highness's lovely country!"
Whereupon H.H. turned his eye slowly on me, and gave
me such a look I shall never forget, and then ostentat
iously turned his back on me. I was surprised and
indignant, and being quite at a loss to account for such
brusque and rude conduct was almost tempted to rise
and take leave, but I kept my seat. After the Durbar
was over I conferred with R. as to the possible reason of
such marked rudeness; and on carefully recalling what
had passed, R. suggested that my allusion to His High
ness's country was indiscreet, and led to the exhibition
of discourtesy. It appeared that the courtiers and at
tendants at the Durbar — who were behind us in a large
circle as we sate with the Governor — -were most of them
little better than spies on the Governor, and had he
allowed such a solecism in court etiquette to pass, as my
allusion to the country as his, the report would have been
conveyed to his father — the old Maharajah Golaub Sing,
at Jummoo — that the prince was giving himself airs of
independence and assuming royalty. I should, therefore,
have worded my remark, "His Highness's Royal Fathers
country!" Hence the necessity of marking displeasure
at the solecism in etiquette. It was a warning to me in
all future intercourse with native courts, where every
word must be weighed; and I must say at that period it
greatly set me against political employ. I have since
thought, however, that possibly my mention of the un
fortunate villagers' grievance may have offended him.

Chapter 10.]

Cashmere.

129

On the 14th I started off my baggage by boat towards
Pampoor, and in the afternoon followed on horseback
myself, diverging from the road in order to visit the
temples and objects of interest near Pandrethun; thence
I rode round by the lakes and crocus-fields of Pampoor,
where the saffron is made.
Pursuing this plan — sleeping at my boats — I rode into
the country right and left, whilst the boats were slowly
tracking up stream. Kakapore, Pyach, Wentipur, Bejbi-
harrie, and other points of antiquarian interest, were then
visited and sketched by me. I examined also the sites of
snan, or religious ablution of several pilgrimages hereabouts
and in the valley of the Liddur and around Bejbiharrie,
itself a place of no common interest to the antiquarian,
frequently alluded to in these sketches. Some I identi
fied; others were, perhaps, mythical and even under the
waters of the Jhelum. Are they not written in the Book
of Pilgrimages already quoted?

56— BRIDGE OF BEJBIHARRIE.

At length I landed at the Irwinnie Ghaut on the
Veshau River, and leaving my boat, marched on by
Dudak6t through the Pergunnahs of Kot and Ardewin

K

130 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
to Sedau and Arabul. I proceeded up the river towards
its source at a lake in the mountains, and visited the
beautiful waterfall of Arabul — a favourite haunt of Ak
bar and other Mogul emperors. Here, also, on the lovely
green slope above the cascade, the fair Noor Mahal would
pitch camp and stay many days on the margin of the
waters. After "musing there an hour alone," I pushed
on, and bivouaced that night in the forest amidst the
pine trees. On this occasion, also, I examined the Sedau
and Ktiri Passes, by which routes the Sikh army of Run-
geet Sing — under Dewan Misr Chand — captured the valley
in 1819. The Sikhs diverged from the main Pinjal route
at a point near Thanna, and making a flank march to
their right, debouched by these paths from the Pinjal,
and deploying on the flank or rear of the Pathan gover
nor, gained an easy victory, as mentioned in former
chapters of these Sketches. I determined that these
paths were perfectly practicable for British troops, even
accompanied by mountain artillery. After considerable
exploration of the mountains thereabouts, I at length
crossed over the Kuri Pass, and taking the route of
Budil and Nar, through long ravines flanked by precipi
tous cliffs, I emerged at length on to the main road near
Aknoor, and so on to Jummoo, Sealkote, and the plains
of the Punjaub.
A few details of this journey may be given.
Whilst crossing the Pir, after a long and fatiguing
ascent, I recollect being ahead of my coolies and fol
lowers. I laid down to rest on a patch of green sward
on the very summit of the pass, face downwards. Whilst
thus reposing, half asleep, I became aware of a sound
like the rush of wings close to me, but it did not occur
to me, till the thing had happened several times, to turn
and ascertain the cause. On doing so, however, and

Chapter 10.] Cashmere. 131
looking round, I found that two immense lammergeyers
had been circhng and swooping close over my head. I
do not suppose they would have had the audacity to
strike, and were probably but reconnoitring the nature of
the strange prostrate form espied in their airy domain.
They immediately sailed away, and were soon lost in the
vast aerial gulphs of the mountain. This is the only
occasion on which I ever saw these birds in Cashmere,
or, indeed, in India.
Another incident — a standing joke I may call it — of
this march, was the accompaniment of three young bear
cubs, brought along in kiltas (baskets) on a coolie's back.
It may be imagined what a source of trouble and fun
these young rascals were ! My unfortunate shikari, Soon
droo, who had special charge of them, and of the coolie
conveying them, was often kept miles in the rear — even
a day's march — because of them, and used to narrate
dismal tales of their scratchings and mischief on the
road. The future career of those young imps is a history
in itself. I recollect, also, there was a mussock (water
carrier's leather bag) full of bear's grease, some of which,
getting loose, flowed all over my tent, rendering it useless
for further service.
At the close of my last day's mountain march, some
where in the latitude of Aknoor, I remember cooking my
last jungle dinner with the legs and frame of my battered
old charpoy (camp bed), which had accompanied me
during my wanderings in Cashmere. Next day I was
hospitably entertained at Jummoo by the Maharajah
Golaub Sing; and the day after, riding in to Sealkote, I
was greeted and cared for by some excellent friends. At
Lahore I was the guest of the late lamented Sir Henry
Lawrence, and so passed out of the woodland life into
civilization and the world of material comfort.
K2

132 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
I now approach the end of my story. Let it not be
supposed that the writer of the foregoing Sketches
claims the character of a mighty hunter! Far from it.
Being somewhat short-sighted, and an indifferent shot,
were sufficient causes to prevent his attaining to the first
walks of the craft; but a knowledge of the habits of
game — acquired by observation, together with much toil
and perseverance — at length led to his obtaining some
success in the field.* In his case, the hunter's life, pure
and simple, was much diversified by other pursuits and
distractions, and he had hoped that at least one of his
companions of the mountain and forest would have long
ere this come forward and given his experiences to the
world. Assuredly they were far abler than himself to
have done justice to the subject.
Although years have passed since these adventures,
the author has scarcely found heart to recount that por
tion of his hunting life passed in the companionship of
his valued brother — now, alas! no more. His the kind
and strong heart to make friends of men, and lead ! His
the bold and ardent spirit to follow the wild game to his
rugged home, there to give him battle face to face, and
gain the victory rf* His the clear, bright eye of sincerity
and courage! He died, alas! too soon — in the very prime
of manhood; — like most good fellows I sometimes think,
— but his image lives with me yet. To the memory of
that bright companion I dedicate this little chronicle of
the sylvan wanderings of my youth.
* My bag of game for the two seasons was about 23 bears, 5 stags,
3 ibex, 1 musk deer, besides smaller game. I disregard feathered game,
such as pheasants, chikore, etc. I recollect, however, that shortly after
this I sent to England 25 stuffed specimens, chiefly moonals (Impyan
pheasants), mostly shot by my hunter Soondroo.
+ He was one of the very few who could boast of having killed his
' ' brace of tiger " on foot by a " right and left " shot ! This he did near
Neemuch in Rajpootana.

ISOMETRIC VIEW OF MOUNTAINS BETWEEN THE PINJAL AND CASHMERE VALLEY.

Ull.-ISOMETRIC AND SECTION OF CASHMERE.

Appendix l.] Cashmere. 133

APPENDIX TO SECTION I.

HISTORICAL SKETCH.
\_The following is an Abridgment of a "Sketch of the Mahomedan
History of Cashmere. By Lieut. D. J. F. Newall, Bengal
Horse Artillery, 1853 — 4."*]
IN the brief sketch of the fabulous and quasi-historic Hindoo
annals of Cashmere (a.d. 1300), I brought up the history
to the point where, owing to the intestine struggles of the native
nobles and a decline of warlike power in the Hindoo rulers,
Cashmere had become so enfeebled as to present a tempting
object of ambition to the surrounding states, who, about this
period, began to send armies to invade the country, or to intrigue
for the overthrow of its government. Cashmere thus became the
centre of every intrigue, and the arena on which adventurers
from the surrounding nations waged incessant war, both against
Cashmere and, within its area, against each other — wolves fight
ing over a moribund carcase 1
About a.d. 1305 we find a feeble king — Eajah Sewdeva — on
the throne of Cashmere, who, in a short time, alienated the affec
tions of his subjects by sundry acts of incapacity and oppression.
At this time three worthies, destined, either in their proper person
or in that of their descendants, to play important parts in the

* This sketch was derived from native sources such as the "Ayeen
Akbari," and the Histories by Hyder Malek, Narrain Khol, and Ma
homed Azim, together with a Persian translation of the "Kaja Tarin
gini. " It has to be mentioned that certain Mahomedan authors — I will
not say "authorities" — anticipate the Hindoo records of the Valley;
and extend them to a period long anterior to the fabulous Hindu tradi
tion of its desiccation by the Muni Kashiapa, an event which, from
coincidence in the chronology, seems to point to the Mosaic deluge. One
of the authors above mentioned begins his history of Cashmere with the
creation; and according to him the Valley was visited by Adam after the
fall ! The descendants of Seth are stated to have reigned over Cashmere
1,110 years, after which the country was conquered by Hurrieohunder

134 The Highlands of India. [Section 1.
history of Cashmere, appear on the scene, and may be grouped
as the authors of its Mahomedan or more modern history. The
first of these, Shamir, son of King Wuffoor Shah of Sawadgere ;
the second, Sunker Chclk, a chief of Dardao ; and, third, Prince
Ranjpoee, son of King Yuftun of Thibet. The last named
having introduced himself with a few followers in the guise of
merchants into Kucknigera, the stronghold of Ram Chund, the
hereditary commander-in-chief of Cashmere, contrived to overcome
him and forcibly married his daughter, Kotereen (or Kotadevi),
in whose right — real or pretended — he seized the throne of Cash
mere, at this time vacant by the flight of the fugitive King
Sewdeva (a.d. 1323). He made Shamir, the first of the ancient
worthies mentioned above, minister, and commenced a vigorous
reign. It is related of him that he became a convert to Islam
from the following circumstance. — Perceiving the folly of idolatry,
he prayed earnestly to God to afford him some guide in his search
of truth. It was at length vouchsafed to his troubled spirit that
the religion of the person who should first meet his sight on aris
ing in the morning was the one it was right for him to. adopt. It
so happened that the Paqueer Bulbul Shah,* of Thibet, engaged
at his morning prayers, was the first person on whom his eyes
fell. Struck with the explanation, he became convinced, accepted
the religion of Islam, and assumed the name of Sudder-oo-deen.

Eaja, whose descendants reigned till the deluge, after which event the
country was peopled by a tribe from Turkhisthan. Moses is said to
have died in Cashmere, where he taught the worship of the one God !
The people, however, afterwards relapsed into idolatry, a sin which
was visited by the local inundation of the Valley, and the tyranny of
the Dsemon Juldeva, as related by the Hindus. After the desiccation of
the Valley by Kushef— according to the Mahomedans the grandson of
Noah — fifty-five princes of the Koraus reigned, till the country was
visited by Solomon, who set up his cousin Isaun as king. The worship
of the one God still continued the national faith, until "Sunder Khan,"
one of the successors of Isaun, lost his life in endeavouring to resist the
progress of idolatry which again got a footing in the land, and with one
or two intervals of Boodhism, is stated to have prevailed until about
the period the present sketch commences, a.d. 1305.
* This faqueer is celebrated as the first Mahomedan who appeared in
Cashmere. His real name was Shurruf-oo-deen. Singing birds (Bul-
buls) are said to have nestled inOiis beard and hair, hence the name.
He died A.D. 1325.

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 135
It is proper to add that the Hindoo writers ignore this conversion
of Ranjpoee or Rinshun Shah, who died after a reign of two and
a half years, leaving his widow, Queen Kotereen, regent. About
this time (a.d. 1326) an invasion of Cashmere by an army of
Toorks under Urdil, who penetrated into the valley, was repulsed
and brought to terms by the brave queen. It was arranged that
if they withdrew immediately they should be allowed to do so un
molested. This being effected, she withdrew to the fort of Indr-
kote, where she established her court, leaving the reins of power
in the hands of the minister, Prince Shamir, who had commenced
a course of intrigue, the result of which was that he soon aspired
to the sovereignty of the country. As a preliminary step he de
manded the hand of the queen in marriage, which, being refused
with scorn, he prepared to extort her consent by force of arms,
and invested Indrkote with a large army. The heroic Rajpootnie
made every effort to defend herself and sustain a siege, but find
ing herself at length reduced to sue for terms, she — in the last
extremity — consented to espouse the successful usurper. Upon
this hostilities ceased, and preparations for the marriage were
commenced (a.d. 1341); but the devoted princess, indignant and
despairing, rode slowly forth, surrounded by her train of maidens,
from the beleaguered fortress, advanced into the presence of the
usurper, and upbraiding him for his ingratitude and treachery,
stabbed herself before him. Thus perished by her own hand
Queen Kotereen — or Kotadevi, as she is often called — the last
Hindoo Sovereign of Cashmere, and Prince Shamir ascended the
throne under the name of Sultan Shums-oo-deen.
PART II.
Independent Mahomedan Kings.
a.d. 1341. — Shums-oo-deen is usually considered the first Ma
homedan King of Cashmere. He enjoyed the dignity only three
and a half years. His sons Jumshed and Ala-oo-deen succeeded,
and reigned fourteen years.
a.d. 1356. — His grandson, Shahab-oo-deen, having repaired
the devastation caused by former invasions of the Toorks, turned
his attention to foreign conquest, and added Thibet, Kashgar,
and Kabul to the kingdom of Cashmere. His religious zeal in-

136 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
cited him to overthrow the idols and Hindoo temples at Bejbi-
harrie and elsewhere, and he is noted in history as one of the
chief Moslem zealots of his time. His brother, Kootub-oo-deen,
however, who succeeded him, left a son, Sikunder, who — of all
the princes of Cashmere — is celebrated as an iconoclast (thence
surnamed "Bhiitshikan"), by whose fanatic zeal in destroying
the ancient temples, the architecture of Cashmere has suffered
irremediable loss. Few of the older temples escaped destruction
at his hands, and those that do remain are sadly mutilated and
disfigured by modern repairs. As early as the year 1397 he had,
perhaps, acquired a supply of gunpowder from Timoor Lang
(Tamerlane), who invaded India at that period, as it is recorded
of him that he threw down the idols and temples by fire, and this
may be regarded as one of the very earliest allusions to the use
of that explosive in Indian history.
During the reign of Shahab-oo-deen the celebrated Syud Ali
Hamadani, and his son, Meer Mahomed, with their trains of
fugitive disciples from Persia — upwards of 1000 in number — ar
rived in Cashmere, and their advent seems to have fixed the
religion pi the country, hitherto in an unsettled state,* and prob
ably led to the religious persecutions which immediately ensued.
About this time the rival Mahomedan sects of Shiahs and
Soonees seem to have commenced their quarrels, and of the first
named sect arose the Rishees or Hermits of Cashmere, a very
remarkable order of devotees, described by Abul Fuzl as a very
respectable and inoffensive order — in his time some two thousand
in number — living upon fruits and berries, and abstaining from
sensual delights. Mahomed Azim, the historian, enumerates
many worthies of this sect and their deeds, but I forbear in this
place to burden the text with the pretended miracles and holy
acts of Mahomedan saints. Some of the stories, however, are
sufficiently amusing. J

* Abul Fuzl, writing about a.d. 1600, relates that in his time 45
places of worship existed to Siva, 64 to Vishnu, 3 to Brahma, 22 to
Boodh, and nearly 700 figures of serpent gods existed in Cashmere.
These numbers may fairly be held to represent approximately the state
of the religion of Cashmere anterior to his time.
1 1 published a paper on this subject in the proceedings of the Asiatic
Society of Bengal in 1870. Vide page 108, et seq: Chap. IX.

Appendix l.] Cashmere. 137
To resume, — Cashmere having been, previous to this influx of
zealots, in a transition state as to religion, these learned doctors
seem to have fixed the religion of the country, and to have built
the zearuts (or shrines) at various picturesque sites all over the
country, including the Jumma Musjid or great mosque of Sri
nugger, many of which remain to this day.
In the year 1423 we find Zein-ul-aboodeen (or Boodshah, the
great king, as he is emphatically called), on the throne of Cash
mere ; during whose reign — which lasted as long as fifty-three
years (a.d. 1423-76) — the country appears to have made a great
stride towards an improved civilization. This prince, besides re
ducing the tributary states to order, was a builder of many
bridges, towns, and forts — Zeinkuddul, Zeinpore, Zeinkote, etc.
— and enlarged the capitol city, Srinugger. He encouraged liter
ature and the arts ; he introduced weavers from Toorkisthan and
wool from Thibet; and many manufactures, such as paper-making,
glass-making, book-binding, and papier-mache work, for which
Cashmere is so celebrated, owe their introduction to his fostering
care. He was also a poet and a lover of field sports. The rising
power of the Chukk (or Chak) tribe did not escape the penetrat
ing eye of this king, who prophesied they would ere long be
rulers of Cashmere, a prediction which it will be seen soon proved
correct. We find Cashmere — on the accession to the throne of Ma
homed Shah (a.d. 1487), great grandson of Zein-ul-aboodeen,
a child of seven years of age — torn by the struggles of the tribes
of Chak, Rehna, and Magrey, in which the two former were
chiefly at variance, alternately supporting the legitimate king,
Mahomed Shah, or his uncle, Fut'teh Shah, the usurper. The
vicissitudes of these struggles for the throne between these con
tending factions occupies the history from the year 1487 to about
1536, when we find that Mahomed Shah — who had four times
regained his crown and defeated the pretender, Futteh Shah —
died in exile. The chief power was then usurped by the Chaks.
a.d. 1536. — To follow the details of these petty wars seems
needless. By intrigue, inter-marriage, and hard fighting, the
Chaks, amid the anarchy of the times, seem gradually to have
fought their way to power ; and from a position of preponderat
ing influence, as ministers and supporters of the king, at length,

138 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
about the year 1 537, openly seized the throne. About that date,
Kajee Chak, putting himself at the head of the national party in
Cashmere, signally defeated the army of Mirza Kamran near the
city of Srinugger; and soon afterwards brought to terms an
army of Kashgurries, which — under Syud Khan and Mirza Hyder
— had invaded Cashmere, and had penetrated as far as the Lar
Pergunnah in the Sinde valley. He succeeded in putting down
all opposition to his power ; but during this period the Mogul
Emperors of Delhi began to turn their attention to Cashmere ;
the Emperor Humaioon, especially, sent several armies against
the country. The Cashmeries, however, rallied round the brave
and wise Kajee Chak, who, in fact, brought all his enemies to
terms. He entered into an alliance with Shere Khan Affghan,
afterwards Shere Shah, then in rebellion against the emperor,
and gave him his niece, a daughter of Mahomed Shah, in mar
riage. Kajee Chak, although the actual ruler of the country,
seems to have permitted the sons of Mahomed Shah — who died
in exile — to retain the nominal dignity of king, and to coin in
their own names. He married his daughter to the second son,
Ismail Shah, and put him on the throne, a.d. 1537.
At length Mirza Hyder, foster brother of the Emperor Hum
aioon, about the year 1540 entered into an alliance with the
discontented native nobles of Cashmere, who consented to set up
Tark Shah, a boy, son of the usurper Futteh Shah, as king, and
after a great battle, defeated Kajee Chak, who fled across the
Pir Pinjal as far as Thanna, where he died, a.d. 1540. This
chief is related to have been of kind and merciful disposition, and
except in battle, never shed the blood of his enemies ; and I may
here remark, that mercy towards the vanquished appears, with a
few exceptions, to have been a characteristic of the gallant Raj
poot tribes, which so long withstood the invasions of surrounding
enemies, and at length only succumbed to the weakness arising
from intestine dissensions, and the fatal error of calling in foreign
aid. After a short interval of power, Mirza Hyder, the intrusive
governor, was defeated and slain by the native nobles, who, how
ever, spared his family, whom they sent in safety to Hindosthan.
Abdie Rehna then came into power for a short time, but was
soon driven from power by the Chaks, who rallied, and under the

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 139
son of the famous Shums-oo-deen Chukk and others, utterly
defeated the Rehnas and their allies from Delhi, at the great
battle of Kuspa, in which four thousand men perished on both
sides (a.d. 1556). The same chief, Ghazie Khan, in the year
1557 defeated, with great loss, an army of twelve thousand
Kashgurries under a nephew of Mirza. Hyder, which invaded
Cashmere ; seven thousand of the enemy are said to have fallen
in this battle. Moguls, Tatars, Kashgurries, Toorks, and other
enemies, who — about this period — invaded Cashmere, fared no
better, but were successively defeated by this vigorous and power
ful tribe of Chak, which had now obtained a firm grasp on the
country of Cashmere, and in the person of Yusoof Khan were
openly acknowledged as the sovereign family (a.d. 1580).
Yusoof Shah, however, soon alienated his nobles, aud had to
seek assistance from the Emperor Akbar, by whose aid he was
enabled to regain his kingdom. Under pretext of suzerainty
acquired thereby, Akbar demanded his son Yakoob as hostage ;
this prince, however, soon escaped, and the nobles of Cashmere
refusing to surrender him, the emperor sent an army, under
Bhugwan Dass, to enforce compliance with his demands (a.d.
1584). The King, Yusoof Shah, hereupon delivered himself up
to the emperor's general ; but he had better have fought for his
independence, as he was sent, under escort, to Lahore, where
Akbar delivered him over to the custody of his Police Minister,
Todar Mull, who, after a short time, sent him to Bengal under
Rajah Maun Sing,* where he died of grief and despair (a.d.
1585). On the flight of Yusoof Shah the Cashmere army had
called on his son, Yakoob Khan, to lead them, and this brave
prince soon justified the confidence reposed in him, by defeating
the emperor's army, and reducing them to such stress amongst
the mountains of Hazara, from cold and want of food, that they
are said alone to have preserved life by slaughtering their elephants,
and sleeping within their still warm carcases. The imperial army
being thus repulsed, Yakoob Shah ascended the throne of Cash
mere, but although of reckless bravery, this prince was posssessed
of but little judgment, and unfit to rule, and being of the Shiah
* Rajah Bhugwan Dass was a Kachwasa Bajpoot, whose daughter
was married to Akbar's son Selim (afterwards Jehangire). His son was
the celebrated Maun Sing of the text.

140 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
sect of Mahomedans, was persuaded by the priests of that sect
to persecution of the rival sect of Soonees ; he thereby evoked
the anger of Akbar, who determined to — once for all — conquer
Cashmere, and despatched Kassim Khan, the Admiral of the
kingdom, with thirty thousand horse, and the fugitive Hyder
Chukk, against the king of that country. Nothing daunted,
Yakoob Shah marched to engage the enemy (a.d. 1586), but,
being deserted by his nobles, he was obliged to fly across the
mountains to Kishtewar with sixty horse. Within a short time,
however, he returned, made a rapid march, and pitched his camp
on the Takt-i-Suliman overlooking the city of Srinugger, where
he rallied the brave Chak tribe around him, and defied the enemy;
Kassim Khan now attacked him with his whole force, but was
defeated and driven back into the city, where his soldiers took
refuge in the fort and other strongholds, where they remained in
a state of siege. The emperor finding his army insufficient to
reduce the country, sent reinforcements of twenty thousand men,
which forced Yakoob Shah finally to vacate the throne, and soon
afterwards — on his safety being guaranteed him — he did homage
to the emperor, who at that time visited the country.
a.d. 1587. — As we find Cashmere from this period subjected
to the Mogul throne, we may consider it from about this date to
have passed from the hands of its native rulers, and to have be
come an integral portion of the Empire of Delhi.
Cashmere under the Mogul Emperors.
We now come to a portion of the History of Cashmere when the
Emperors of Delhi — having possessed themselves of this Eastern
Paradise — adopted it as their summer residence. We have seen
that in the year 1588, and again in 1592, Akbar had visited
the valley, and taken measures for its reduction to order under
his celebrated Police Minister, Todar Mull, at whose recommen
dation the fort of the Koh-i-Maran, on the hill of Harrie-Parvat
overawing the capital, was built. The dress of the people was
changed from the ancient well-girdled tunic, adapted to action
and exercise, and the effeminate long gown of the present day
substituted, and if we may believe dress to be in a measure the

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 141
exponent of the character of a people, we may infer that the
character of the modern Cashmerie has deteriorated from that of
his vigorous and warlike ancestors. Bands, however, of the
brave Chak tribe still continued to hover in the mountains, tak
ing every opportunity of disturbing the intrusive governors, who,
from this time were periodically appointed from Delhi, nor,
indeed, was it till the time of the Soobadar Etekaad Khan
(1622) — who hunted down the Chaks and put them to death as
robbers and outlaws —that this fierce tribe was totally subdued ;
their few descendants at the present day are the professional horse
keepers of the valley, and in their character still display somewhat
of the fierce, independent spirit which led to their destruction.
It was, perhaps, about the beginning of the 17th century that
the Emperor Akbar visited his province of Cashmere for the
third and last time ; about which period a power was organized
in a far distant land,* destined, ere two centuries had set, to
exercise dominion over the magnificent empire which then called
him master ; of all his provinces, the fair valley of Cashmere
being now nearly alone in its independence of that beneficent
rule. At this time the revenue of Cashmere with its tributary
states — including Kabul and Kandahar — was little less than
one million sterling, and its garrison was 94,800 horse, with
thirty-seven garrisoned forts in various parts of the country, con
taining 2,400 artillerymen.
a.d. 1619. — Cashmere having been thus surveyed and reduced
to order in the time of the Emperor Akbar — having also been
beautified with palaces and gardens — little else remained for his
son and successor, the magnificent Jehangire, than to enjoy the
delights of this Eastern Paradise in company with his Empress,
the peerless Noor Mahal, whose romantic spirit appears to have
led her lord and emperor to roam into the most secluded and
picturesque recesses of the valley, many of which pleasant re
treats are to this day pointed out as the spots where the royal
pair were wont to disport themselves in those days of regal
abandon. Western writers have adorned with the flowers of
poetry and romance the social life and festive displays of those
days, but it is a fact that the oriental records of those days
* The East India Company was founded in a.d. 1600.

142

The Highlands of India. [Section I,

of regal magnificence, and of the royal visits to the valley, are
singularly curt, and void of interest ; and it seems to have been
reserved for a European (Bernier) who, long after, visited the
valley as court physician in the train of the Emperor Aurungzeb,
to give anything approaching a graphic account of the pageantry
we may suppose to have accompanied their progresses. From
time immemorial it seems to have been customary for the rulers
of Cashmere to leave the valley during the winter, and to return
to its delights on the approach of summer ; indeed, the ancient
Hindoo chronicle, the "Raja Taringini," already alluded to,
states that the kings of Cashmere used to reside for six months
out of the valley on account of the cold in the "Abhisaras " of
the ancients ; probably Jummoo or Kangra, in the Kohistan of
the Punjaub. The Mogul Governors under the Emperors of
Delhi seem to have adopted this agreeable practice, especially
Ali Murdan Khan, who,
as Governor of Lahore
as well as Cashmere (a,
d. 1651), used to divide
his presence between the
two, and for his conveni
ence in travelling, built
those spacious and noble
serais along the roads
leading to Cashmere, the
ruins of which, to this
day, attest his magnifi
cence. His expenses on
each trip are stated to
have exceeded a lac of
rupees (£10,000 ster
ling.) The Emperor Jehan
gire built many palaces
and gardens, especially
thecelebra ted Shdlimar*
Gardens, immortalized
51— Scene in the Ruins of Echibul.

* Shah-il-imirat — the Royal Gardens.

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. H3
by poets and travellers. The Naseem and Nishat Gardens owe
their origin to Noor Jehan Begum, his wife, and the ruins of
palaces and baths at Manasbul, Echibul, Virnag, etc., attest her
taste in selecting picturesque sites. During the return of Je-
hangire from his last visit to the valley (a.d. 1627) he died on
the road near Rajaorie, whence his body was conveyed to Lahore,
and there buried. His widow, Noor Jehan Begum, took up her
residence at Lahore after Jehangire's death, where she employed
herself for the remaining twenty years of her life in constructing
a magnificent mausoleum for her late lord and emperor. The
tombs of both are to be seen there at the present day, across the
River Ravee at Shahdera.
In 1627 Shah Jehan succeeded to the empire of Delhi, and
soon afterwards visited the valley, accompanied by many poets
and savants ; indeed, of all the emperors of Delhi Shah Jehan
appears most to have affected the strains of poets and musicians,
and as they and the courtiers increased in the land, the hermits
(rishees) and devotees — for which Cashmere had been so cele
brated — receded like game before the hunter, into the most
dreary solitudes, and were in danger of becoming extinct amidst
the discouragements of this festive court, until they again re
covered under the subsequent reign of the orthodox Aurungzeb,
who, in fact, about the year 1657 deposed his father, Shah
Jehan, and imprisoned him for life in the fort of Agra (a.d.
1658). He had, during his reign, invaded Thibet, which he
annexed to the Soobhadarie of Cashmere. Aurungzeb, being
confirmed on the throne (a.d. 1663), appointed as usual a
Soobadar for the Province of Cashmere, but soon after com
menced a progress to visit the valley in person ; and here we
fortunately possess the graphic pages of Bernier,* who accom
panied Aurungzeb as state physician. These give us a lively
picture of the state and magnificence of an imperial progress.
According to him the emperor's cortege set out from Delhi on
the 6th of December, 1663, at three p.m., that hour having been
pronounced auspicious by the court astrologers. It consisted of
35,000 horse and 10,000 foot, seventy pieces of heavy cannon,
* This celebrated man — surnamed the Handsome Philosopher — died
at Paris, 1688, of extreme mortification at a satire. He was the friend
of Ninon de L'Enclos, Racine, Boileau, and other wits of the age.

144 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
and fifty or sixty light field pieces — or as it was called "stirrup"
artillery. Roshenara Begum — the emperor's sister-wife — accom
panied the camp, and the physician enlarges on the spectacle of
her stately train of elephants on the line of march. The army
arrived at Lahore 25th February, and crossed the Pir Pinjal in
April (a.d. 1664). During the passage an accident occurred,
several of the elephants having fallen over the precipices, and
several ladies of the royal zenana were killed on the spot. The
emperor remained three months in Cashmere, nor does it appear
that he ever afterwards visited that country till his death in the
year 1181 H., at the age of 91. It is amusing to observe the
extravagant praises which our orthodox historian, Mahomed
Azim, whom I have chiefly followed about this period (a.d.
1706), confers upon Aurungzeb, whom he infinitely prefers to
the noble and enlightened Akbar, of whom he complains that he
treated all his subjects alike! not favoring the Mahomedans
above the Hindoos ! Was ever a nobler involuntary tribute paid
to a ruler by a would-be disparager I
After a civil war between his sons, Aurungzeb was succeeded
by his son Bahader Shah, who, however, died in the year a.d.
1712 at the age of 71, leaving the throne to his son Fir6kshere,
whose mother was a Cashmerie. His elder brother, Jehander
Shah, had gained possession for a few days, and made the son of
Anatoola Khan — the Governor of Cashmere — his Wuzzeer.
Fir6kshere, therefore, on gaining the mastery, put his brother to
death, and imprisoned the latter forty days. However, on the
return of the latter's father — Anatoola Khan — from Mecca, he
released him, and reappointed Anatoola Khan governor. This
governor held the subadarie for upwards of ten years. He did
not govern in person, but sent various naibs (deputies) who were
unequal to their position, and several rebellions broke out in the
valley. The practice of appointing naibs seems now to have fairly
come into fashion among the great nobles of the Mogul court,
who mostly looked on their appointments solely as a vehicle of
extorting money from their respective governments. We may
conjecture that the condition of a province thus governed was not
generally happy. Cashmere, in fact, at this period, seems to have
been the prey of every intrigue, and latterly the arena on which
was played out the game of empire by the nobles, respectively in

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 145
the interest of the Delhi court or of "Nadir Shah," who at this
period was preparing to invade India.
a.d. 1736. — The invasion of Hindosthan by Nadir Shah now,
in fact, occurs, but we need not follow it further than as it affects
the province whose history is our subject. A great battle at
Paniput, near Kurnaul, ensued (1739), in which many Cashmere
nobles — officers of the Delhi Emperor, Mahomed Shah — were
slain, and Delhi was subsequently sacked by the soldiers of Nadir
Shah. After due submission to the conqueror, Mahomed Shah
was reinstated on the throne, and thus Cashmere still remained
a province of the Mogul Empire.
a.d. 1740. — Abul Burkut, a native chief, had been the Gover
nor of Cashmere in the interest of Mahomed Shah during
Nadir's conquest, whose subadar (Fakr-ood-dowlah) had been
turned out by the Cashmeries — who objected to an emperor of
the " Shiah" sect — and killed. He now threw off his allegiance,
and sought alliances amongst the surrounding tribes, with whose
aid he put down all present opposition to his power. He suc
ceeded in holding out till the year 1745, when he was induced to
surrender, and present himself at court.
Cashmere has now, since the beginning of the century, ex
hibited the spectacle of a province governed by the creatures of
an absent ruler, himself the courtier of the emperor, who, in his
turn — owing to the declension of the Mogul power — was generally
a mere puppet in the hands of others. The condition of a pro
vince thus misgoverned by a slave in the fourth degree, we cannot
suppose to have been happy ; nor, observing this, can it excite
surprise that the various naibs or deputies should have taken
advantage of the state of things, and endeavoured to render
themselves more or less independent. In fact, about this time,
we find most of the governors of Cashmere — in common with
those of the other provinces of the tottering Mogul throne — little
short of independent rulers.
a.d. 1747. — In the year Hijree 1160, Nadir Shah was assas
sinated in his tent in Persia, and his successor, Ahmud Shah
Abdallie,* having expressed some views as to Cashmere, a party
* He assumed the title of Doordowran — Pearl of the Age — corrupted
into "Dooranee." He must not be confounded with his rival of the
same name, Ahmud Shah, the Mogul Emperor of Delhi. L

146 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
of native nobles secretly invited him to take possession. The
Mogul governor, however, obtained a clue to this intrigue ;
whereupon they openly rebelled, and set up a governor of their
own. Both the rival governors, however, came to grief, and the
nobles wrote to the Emperor, Mahomed Shah, at Delhi, to ap
point a new one ; but about this time Mahomed Shah was suc
ceeded by his son, Ahmud Shah, of Delhi.
a.d. 1752. — Meer Ahmed Mokeem, the new governor, was
attacked and driven away by Abul Kassim, a son of Abul Bur-
kut: the former, however, presented himself to Ahmud Shah
Abdallie at Lahore, and obtained the assistance of a force under
Abdoola Khan, with which he marched towards Cashmere. The
Mogul governor fled at his approach, and the victorious Abdoola
Khan, setting aside his powerless ally, seized the country, and
during the six months he remained, plundered and extorted a
crore of rupees (£1,000,000 sterling) from the unhappy valley,
already exhausted by pestilence and famine, with which he pre
sented himself before his master, Ahmud Shah, having left
Rajah Sookh Jewan as his mooktear or deputy-governor.
Cashmere thus passed from the sway of the Mogul throne —
under that of the Dooranees — and we may accordingly here close
that portion of its history.

The general history of India about this period, were it our
theme, would exhibit events of tenfold more importance than the
local records of the province of Cashmere. We should find
defeat and disaster closing round the sinking Mogul throne ; its
provinces lost or overrun ; its soobadars in rebellion ; and the
battle of Plassey in 1757 restoring the British power, destined,
by the close of the century, to supplant the Mogul as the para
mount power of Hindosthan. The Mahrattas would be found
closely following the steps of Ahmud Shah, and plundering Delhi
in the year 1758, and thereby incurring the hostility of Ahmud
Shah Abdallie. The field of battle selected was nearly the same
as that on which occurred the great battle between Nadir Shah
and Mahomed Shah, wherein the latter lost his throne. This
sanguinary battle of Paniput occurred on the 14th of January,
a.d. 1761, and ended in the total defeat of the Mahratta army,
whose power was thus effectually broken, and a new puppet

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 147
emperor, Shah Aluni, set up by the conqueror on the throne of
Delhi. This unfortunate potentate maintained a precarious ten
ure of power, during the vicissitudes of which he was blinded and
imprisoned, and finally became a pensioner of the British Govern
ment in 1803. With him may be said to end the history of the
Mogul empire.
PART IV.
Cashmere under the Doordnee Governors.
a.d. 1753. — We must now revert to the year 1753, when
Abdoola Khan, the first Dooranee Governor, appointed Rajah
Sookh Jewan as his mooktear (deputy), and departed from
Cashmere. No sooner, however, was his back turned than a
general impatience at Dooranee rule manifested itself. Rajah
Sookh Jewan, placing himself at the head of this popular move
ment, began to form a confederacy amongst the surrounding hill
tribes, and to entertain soldiery, which gradually swelled into an
army of forty thousand. Thus backed, he considered himself
powerful enough to resist Ahmud Shah, and seems to have
aimed at rendering his country independent, and himself its king.
Ahmud Shah Abdallie, however, on his return to Lahore, deter
mined on subduing the refractory province, and chastising the
leader of the insurrection. He accordingly entered into an
alliance with Runjeet Dehu, of Jummoo (1754), guided by
whose advice and aid, he despatched an army under Noorooddeen
Khan, to invade Cashmere. Sookh Jewan collected his allies,
and advanced to meet him at the head of fifty thousand men : he
was, however, deserted by his nobles, was captured, and blinded
by the successful Noorooddeen, who sent him in chains before
the Emperor, Ahmud Shah, under whose horse, and those of his
courtiers, the unfortunate rajah was trampled to' death.
From this period — during which Cashmere was ruled by gover
nors appointed by the Dooranee Kings of Kabul — the valley was
the prey of intrigue, plunder, and rebellion. Most of the
governors, encouraged by the feeble character of Ahmud Shah's
successors, attempted to set up for themselves, till reduced to
order by more powerful aspirants than themselves ; and, in fact,
the whole kingdom was convulsed by the rival claims of the
1 2

148 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Sudoozaie and Barukzai factions ; the former of whom — by an
act of ruthless vigour about the year 1796 — succeeded in killing
and dispersing the rival clan of Barukzai, few of whom escaped
the slaughter ; but amongst these were three of the most vigor
ous representatives of the Barukzaies — Futteh Khan, Dost Ma
homed (afterwards King of Kabul), and Azim Khan, afterwards
Ruler of Cashmere.
In 1801 Shah Zeman, King of Kabul, invaded India, and
had penetrated as far as Lahore, when the intelligence reached
him that his own brother, Mahomed Shah, of Herat, together
with the fugitive Futteh Khan Barukzai, had invaded Kabul in
his absence. He accordingly returned precipitately, abandoning
men and guns on the road. On his return to Kabul the unfor
tunate Zeman Shah was deserted by his nobles, seized, blinded,
and imprisoned. His Wuzzeer, Wuffadar Khan — by whose
power he had been sustained so long — was put to death, and the
Barukzai family obtained a complete ascendancy. During this
period, however, two of the Sudoozai family — Atta Mahomed,
Governor of Cashmere, and Jehandad Khan, Governor of Attock
— still held out in the interests of their family, and defied the
Barukzaies. On the retreat of Shah Zeman from Lahore in the year a.d.
1801, Runjeet Sing, chief of one of the missals or clans of the
Sikh confederacy, had risen rapidly into importance, and had
consolidated a nation, whose elements he found existing in the
Punjaub in a disjointed form. Steadily advancing in power, he
had, in fact, by this time (1801) achieved a place amongst the
number of the princes of India, and was even deemed an ally
worthy of the British Government. Thinking him, therefore, a
fit coadjutor, Futteh Khan Barukzai— eldest brother of Dost
Mahomed — feeling himself unequal to the conquest of Cash
mere thus fortified by the Sudoozai brothers, proceeded to
Lahore towards the end of 1812, and entered into a treaty for a
subsidiary force for the invasion of the valley, for which it was
stipulated Runjeet Sing was to receive eight lakhs of rupees
(£80,000) annually. Mokim Chund was accordingly sent by
Runjeet, in command of a force of twelve thousand men (1813);
which contingent, acting in concert with the army of Futteh
Khan, commenced an invasion of Cashmere. Atta Mahomed,

Appendix l.] Cashmere. 149
the Sudoozai governor of Cashmere, drew out his forces for
battle, but being deserted by some of his officers, and suspecting
treachery in others, he shut himself up in the Shergurrie, whilst
his brother held out the Harrie Parvat, two strongholds in the
city of Srinugger ; however, the enemy agreed to listen to terms,
and, after an interview, Atta Mahomed — with his family and
treasure — was allowed to depart peaceably for Peshawer, and
thus Futteh Khan gained possession of the country. He shortly
after set out to besiege Attock, in which fort Jehander Khan,
brother of the late governor, still held out against him. No
sooner, however, did he approach Attock than Jehander Khan,
who had previously sold the fort to Runjeet Sing, fled, and
joined the Sikhs, who refused to surrender that important
stronghold. Enraged at this breach of good faith on the part
of his ally, Futteh Khan now refused to fulfil the other stipu
lated terms of agreement, withheld the payment of the eight
lakhs to Runjeet Sing, and declared war. On leaving Cashmere,
however, he had dismissed his ally, Mokim Chund — Runjeet's
general — with the first instalment of the eight lakhs ; and the
latter, on his departure from Cashmere, had released and taken
with him to Lahore the imprisoned Shah Shooja, Prince of
Kabul, whom, however, Runjeet Sing detained as a prisoner in
honourable captivity. Shah Shooja, at this time, had in his
possession the celebrated Koh-i-noor diamond : old Runjeet
knew this, and put pressure on the unfortunate Shah Shooja
till he gave it up. He was then allowed to escape to the British
territory (a.d. 1814).
Shah Shooja — who has thus passed across our stage of action
— here disappears from view as an actor in Cashmere politics.
His subsequent career, however, is well known to the Indian
historian. He was made use of as the political puppet set up
against Dost Mahomed, ruler of Kabul, by the so-called Tripar
tite Treaty, of which the British Government was prime mover,
and was thus the unfortunate causa belli which led to our mis
fortunes in Affghanisthan. Happily it is not within the scope
of this sketch to more than thus remotely allude to those events.
a.d. 1814. — To resume: Runjeet Sing, on the pretext of the
non-fulfilment of treaty on the part of Futteh Shah in withhold
ing payment of the eight lakhs stipulated for, now at the head

150 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
of a considerable army, invaded Cashmere in person. The Sikh
army arrived at Rajaorie on the 11th of June, 1814, and
equipped itself for hill warfare before attempting to force the
passes of the Pir Pinjal.
The Rajah of Poonch (Rahoola Khan) had openly joined
Azim Khan, the new governor of Cashmere — brother of Futteh
Khan — and Uggar Khan, Rajah of Rajaorie, had every dispo
sition to do likewise had not his country been already occupied
by the enemy : as it was, he beguiled them by false intelligence
and treacherous guides, and was thus, perhaps, more serviceable
to the Cashmere party than if he had openly joined them. It
was determined that Runjeet Sing in person should lead the
principal army by the Poonch road towards Tosi Maidan, whilst
a diversion should be made by Barumgulla. This last, under
Ram Dyal, gained the post of Barumgulla, but it was not till
the middle of July that a general advance was made. On the
13th of that month, however, Runjeet marched from Poonch and
reached Tosi Maidan on the 18th, where he found Mahomed
Azim Khan and the Cashmere army ready to receive him. For
once old Runjeet appears to have lost his head, and his hesi
tation in attacking on this occasion seems to have led to the
disasters which followed. His army being discouraged by the
delay in attacking the enemy, lost ground, antl was eventually
forced into a precipitate retreat to Poonch, with the loss of its
baggage. Runjeet here quitted the camp and hurried to Lahore.
Meanwhile, Ram Dyal having forced the Pir Pinjal, and defeated
the Cashmere force which attacked him at Heerpore, advanced
as far as Shupeyon, the first town in the valley, and all had been
well had Runjeet Sing's force succeeded ; but Ram Dyal's de
tachment was now surrounded, and only saved from utter destruc
tion through the friendship of Azim Khan for Mokim Chund,
the grandfather of Ram Dyal its commander. His force was
allowed to retire, and the victorious Azim Khan then resumed
the quiet government of Cashmere, which was this year desolated
by a severe famine, and several severe winters about this time
added to the miseries of the people.
The Sikhs being thus repulsed, the Governor, Azim Khan,
began now to oppress the Hindoos, whom he suspected — probably
not without reason— of a disposition favourable to the Sikhs. At

Appendix l.] Cashmere. 151
length — after six years of rule, during which he had amassed two
crores of rupees (£2,000,000 sterling), extorted from the un
happy country — he left his brother, Jubbur Khan, as his deputy,
and proceeded to Kabul, to the assistance of his eldest brother,
Futteh Khan, at that time a prisoner in the hands of the Sud-
oozaies. He arrived, however, too late to prevent that high-
spirited chief from being foully assassinated in the presence of
(and by order of) the Shah. It does not fall to our province to
trace the future career of Azim Khan, who, without doubt, had
ably held and defended Cashmere. He subsequently became
ruler of Kabul, till, misunderstandings occurring betwixt himself
and his younger brother, Dost Mahomed Khan — whose force of
character he appears never to have fully recognised — he allowed,
by his want of prompt action at a critical time, the golden mo
ments of opportunity to pass, and he died, defeated, of a broken
heart in 1822.
a.d. 1818. — We must, however, revert to our more immediate
subject — Cashmere. Jubbur Khan being left as naib (or deputy)
evinced every disposition to govern well, and carried on the
government with mercy and equity for the space of six months.
But the wrath of the Punjaub Lion (Runjeet Sing) although
baffled, had been aroused. Since his unsuccessful invasion of
Cashmere in the year 1814 he had occupied himself in repairing
the losses sustained by his arms, and in punishing the hill rajahs
and other allies of Azim Khan this side the Pir Pinjal, to whom
he mainly attributed his repulse. At length — in the spring of
a.d. 1819 — encouraged by his recent successes against Mooltan,
and instigated by Dewan Misr Chand and other advisers, he
collected an army "as numerous as ants and locusts'" (lit.), and
invaded Cashmere a second time. Taught by former reverses,
Runjeet Sing now adopted every precaution to ensure success.
He divided his army into three divisions ; the advance under
Misr Chand, the support under Prince Khurruk Sing, and the
reserve under Runjeet himself.
By the middle of June the Dewan had occupied Rajaorie,
Poonch, and all the hills this side the Pir Pinjal, and on the
23rd, by a simultaneous attack, carried the positions of the rajahs
of those two states, who covered the passes. At the same time
Prince Khurruk Sing, with the support, occupied Poonch and

152 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Rajaorie. Meantime the Cashmere Governor, Jubbur Khan,
made some show of resistance ; he advanced in person as far as
Heerpore, and sent forward troops to close the pass, but his ar
rangements for defence were ill concerted, as he allowed Dewan
Misr Chand to turn his position by a flank march, and to take
up a favourable position in his rear at Deopore. There, however,
he engaged the enemy with five thousand men on the 5th July,
but was wounded and defeated after a feeble action, and fled with
his Pathans by the Baramoola pass towards the river Indus. By
this time Runjeet Sing, with the reserve, had reached Rajaorie,
but did not proceed to view his conquest, of which, indeed, he
appears to have entertained a superstitious dread, and never
visited in person. Dewan Misr Chand, therefore, advanced and
occupied the city and country of Cashmere, which thus — after a
lapse of nearly five centuries — again fell under the sway of a
quasi-Hindoo sovereign in 1819.
PART V.
Cashmere under the Sikhs.
a.d. 1819. — The Sikh army, under Dewan Misr Chand, having
thus occupied Cashmere, Motee Ram, son of the late Dewan
Mokim Chund, was appointed governor of the valley by Runjeet
Sing. We now also obtain a glimpse of a character destined to
play no slight or unimportant part in the history of Cashmere.
During May, Sirdar Golaub Sing seized Uggar Khan, the rebel
lious Rajah of Rajaorie, and for this service obtained the Jageer
of Jummoo, and title of Rajah. This chief will be found ulti
mately gaining possession of the entire of Cashmere.
In a.d. 1825 Dewan Keerpa Ram was governor, in whose
time occurred the great earthquake, which laid every house in
the city low. During the three months of its continuance the
shocks at first were not less than an hundred per diem, after
which they gradually diminished. The inhabitants lived entirely
in tents. This governor was very fond of display, but was,
nevertheless, a good ruler. At length he excited the jealousy of
Rajah Dhian Sing, the all-powerful minister of Runjeet, who
brought about his recall in 1830. The order summoning the
governor to appear at the Lahore durbar, and give an account of

Appendix l.] Cashmere. 153
his stewardship, took him entirely by surprise : it arrived during
a nocturnal fete, which he was enjoying with his suite, at the
"Lank" island in the city lake (locally called the "dhull,")
which he had illuminated for the occasion. This sudden disgrace,
arriving thus in the hour of revelry, greatly disconcerted the un
fortunate Keerpa Ram, who, neverthelees, obeyed, and proceeded
to Lahore, where, on arrival, he was imprisoned for a short time
on the plea of embezzling the public money. Subsequently, his
own and his father Motee Ram's estates being confiscated to
make good the pretended deficit, he was released, and soon after
resorted to that usual refuge of Punjaub functionaries, a pilgrim
age to Hurdwar, where his subsequent poverty was the best
argument for his innocence of the peculation attributed to him.
a.d. 1831. — Prince Shere Sing (afterwards maharajah) soon
afterwards assumed the government of Cashmere, and appointed
Bisaka Sing his dewan, who attended to the affairs of the country
whilst the prince took his pleasure in field sports, to which he
was much addicted. The prince, himself, was an easy ruler, but
neglected his charge, and allowed his dewan to extort money and
plunder the revenue. A great famine at this time also added to
the miseries of the people, thousands of whom died, and many
fled the country to Hindosthan and the Punjaub. Their wretched
condition attracted the notice of Runjeet Sing, who forthwith
despatched Kooshial Sing — with a council of other chiefs having
full powers — to collect the revenue, and watch Shere Sing and
his dewan. Kooshial Sing, on arrival (1832), accordingly as
sumed control of the finances from the dewan, but Prince Shere
Sing remained in the country as before, following his favourite
pursuits. Kooshial Sing, fully aware that a cash remittance was
the most effectual method of convincing his master (old Runjeet)
of his fitness for the commission entrusted to him, presently ex
torted twenty lakhs of rupees (£200,000) from the already im
poverished country : he departed alter six months, laden with
spoil, and Colonel Meean Sing was selected by the maharajah, on
account of his humane character, as a fit governor for the un
happy valley (1833). That officer accordingly proceeded towards
Cashmere, but finding that Prince Shere Sing had not yet seen
fit to surrender his government, halted at Baramoola a month.
At length that royal personage leisurely set out on his return to

154 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
Lahore, after having misruled the country for upwards of three
years. Meean Sing then assumed the government, and set him
self to work to repair the country desolated by famine and
oppression. Meean Sing seems to have been a kind and just man, who
prevented his soldiers from oppressing the people ; a condition of
things almost inseparable, as it would seem, from the military
occupation of a tributary country by Asiatic soldiery. His
measures were successful, and he was raised to the rank of
general in 1836 as a mark of acknowledgment of his services.
a.d. 1838. — This year great floods — to which the Cashmere
valley has in all ages been subject — occurred, which forced the
inhabitants to take to their boats. I may here mention that a
considerable portion of the inhabitants of the Cashmere valley
lead a semi-aquatic existence; many families reside entirely in
their boats, whose registered number — of boats paying tax — in
the time of Akbar, as related in the "Ayeen Akbarie," exceeded
three thousand ; and it is further related that in the time of the
Shah Hamedan there were five thousand seven hundred boats on
the lakes and rivers of Cashmere.
a.d. 1839. — The following year the " Lion of the Punjaub,"
Runjeet Sing, died, and was succeeded by the imbecile Khurruk
Sing, who followed his father ten months after. Noo Nehal
Sing, Runjeet's grandson, was also killed — whether accidently
or otherwise has never been satisfactorily proved — by the fall of
a gateway at Lahore. Upon this a state of anarchy ensued
amongst the rival Sikh sirdars — a graphic picture of which has
been pourtrayed by other hands — during all which struggles for
power, however, Meean Sing remained quiet in his government.
At length he fell in a mutiny of his troops by the hand of one
Jemadar Telluck Sing. This mutiny was occasioned by that
usual grievance of Asiatic armies — arrears of pay, and also
probably by the restrictions placed on the plundering habits of
the soldiery. Telluck Sing having demanded payment of arrears
for his regiment, drew his tulwar (sword), and calling on Meean
Sing to "go aloft," that being the slang for death amongst the
Sikhs, killed him on the spot. Thus perished the well meaning
Meean Sing. Intemperance and sensuality had, however, by
this time gone far to impair the impulses of humanity and

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 155
justice with which he had commenced his career, and in consequence
of his gross appetites his person had attained a most unwieldly
and unseemly bulk. Telluck Sing then sacked the treasury, and
put himself at the head of the rebellion. Meamtime Golaum
Mohy-ood-deen, a Mahomedan, had been despatched by Maharajah
Shere Sing — now ruler of Lahore — as governor, to relieve Meean
Sing, but on arriving at Shupeyon in progress to join his appoint
ment, finding that the Sherghurrie — the regal residence of Cash
mere — was in the possession of the rebels, he halted and wrote
for assistance. Rajah Golaub Sing of Jummoo, and other sir
dars, were now sent to put down the mutineers, which they
succeeded in effecting after several engagements, in which the
rebels were nearly all slain.
a.d. 1824. — Golaum Mohy-ood-deen was then installed as
Governor of Cashmere. During the summer of this year Golaub
Sing remained a month in the valley engaged in collecting and
forwarding supplies for his troops, employed at this time under
the famous Zorawar Sing, in reducing Thibet, on whose trade in
shawl-wool, etc., this merchant prince had early set his eye.
Soon after this the governor met with a repulse at Ghilgit,
which encouraged several of the hostile tributary rajahs to rebel.
Combining their forces, they pressed the governor so hard that
he was fain to apply for assistance from Lahore. His son, Sheikh
Emam-oo-deen, was accordingly despatched with an army of
fifteen thousand men to his assistance by the new ruler of Lahore
— Maharajah Heera Sing — who had succeeded to the guddie
(throne), 1843. On the approach of this overwhelming reinforce
ment the rebels dispersed, and the sheikh went to pay his respects
to his father, the governor, who associated him in the government.
At length Golaum Mohy-ood-deen, being in an infirm state of
health, left his son, Sheikh Emam-oo-deen, as governor, and pro
ceeded to Lahore, to pay his respects at court. He was, how
ever, taken ill on the road, returned to Cashmere, and there died,
after ruling the country five years, 1845. In the time of Mohy-
ood-deen the cholera created great havoc amongst the inhabitants,
no less than twenty-three thousand of whom are stated to have
died in the city of Srinugger alone.
An interval of anarchy at Lahore occurs at this period, until
at length the undisciplined arrogance of the Sikh soldiery led

156 The Highlands of India. [Section I.
them to invade the British territory across the Sutlej, in Decem
ber, 1845. The campaign of 1845-6 on the Sutlej ensued, ter
minating in the defeat of the Sikh armies at the battles of
Moodkhee, Ferozeshah, Alliwal, and Sobraon, and the military
occupation of Lahore by the British army in February, 1846,
succeeded by a treaty and the establishment of Dhulleep Sing, a
child of eight, on the throne of the Punjaub, with Lall Sing as
minister of the queen regent, Cashmere being made over to Rajah
Golaub Sing, of Jummoo, for a consideration of something under
a million sterling — say £750.000.
We need not enter on the intrigues of that period ; sufficient
to say, that on the approach of Golaub Sing's general to take
possession of Cashmere, the Governor — Sheikh Emam-oo-deen —
acting under secret instructions from the Lahore durbar, refused
to surrender his trust, and, collecting his followers, succeeded in
heating back Golaub Sing's troops. He had even formed am
bitious designs for a Mahomedan confederacy, to defy alike the
Sikhs and the British. His resources, however, were manifestly
inadequate to such a project, and on a British force advancing
to Jummoo, he was induced to surrender. Maharajah Golaub
Sing, of Jummoo, thus became independent ruler of Cashmere
and the Kohistan — hill country — of the Punjaub in a.d. 1847.

The sketch of history, of which this is an abridgment, here
ends. The History of Cashmere subsequent to this period pre
sent but few incidents, and is too recent to be regarded from the
standpoint of historical investigation. Supported by the British
Government, and much influenced by the wise counsels of Sir
Henry Lawrence — the Resident of Lahore — and succeeding
governors of the Punjaub, Maharajah Golaub Sing, by prudence
and adherence to his treaty obligations, established his dynasty
on the throne of Cashmere. In the perilous year 1857 he
remained loyal, and even furnished a contingent, whose moral
support at the seige of Delhi was considerable. He died soon
after, leaving the kingdom to his eldest son, the late Maharajah
Runbeer Sing, who, also — guided by prudence, and following
the traditions of his family — continued the wise policy of his
predecessor. We may assume the present ruler of Cashmere to be on the

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 157
whole tolerably well affected towards his feudal suzerain the
British Government. His interests demand it ! But it must be
confessed that in view to our approaching relations — trade and
otherwise — with Central Asia, and with Russia in the back
ground, the existence of an army on our flank, twenty thous
and strong, is a fact that should not be overlooked. The
reader of these pages will have seen that Cashmere — and why
not North-west India? — has been, in ancient times, invaded by
the routes of Yassin* from Budakhshan, and Ghilgit, as also
from Kashgar and Yarkund, by Leh, and over the Kara Korum
range, — routes by no means so inaccessible to the passage of
barbarous hordes of Kirghiz, and other Asiatic nomads, as is
generally supposed. At anyrate, the threat of such a thing in
the event of war, might assuredly be resorted to by an astute
enemy, with a view of disturbing our political equanimity, and of
locking up the European garrison of India.
This route we are now opening out for trade, and let it not be
forgotten that where trade can flow war can follow ! and some
might even confess doubts whether the policy we are inaugurat
ing in that quarter may Dot, at anyrate, be premature, until the
army and state of Cashmere be absolutely at our disposal for
defensive purposes. To this end, amongst the first steps would
appear to be the appointment of a permanent Resident at the
court of Cashmere (Srinugger), with, perhaps, a few officers to
organize a system of frontier defences in imperial interests ; or
even — in view of eventualities — the formation of a British con
tingent. Let me not be mistaken ; as before said, our treaty
obligations bind us. I would not, therefore, seek to weaken, but
rather to confirm and strengthen the Cashmere State, whose
chief — far from a jealous exclusiveness — should seek to draw
closer his relations with the British.
Holding in view that pressure on the flank of a rival or enemy
may be considered the surest means of checking his advance, it
* About a.d. 1539, Mirza Hyder and Syud Khan of Kashgar invaded
Cashmere by the route of Ladak and the Sinde valley of Lar Pergunnah;
and again in 1557 a nephew of the above Mirza Hyder invaded Cash
mere with an army of twelve thousand Kashgurries; and earlier, we
read of armies of Moguls and others advancing from Budakshan by the
line of Yassin and Ghilgit, over the Barogil Pass.

158 The Highlands of India. [Section l.
would seem, then, that strong governments and armies in Persia,
Affghanisthan, and Cashmere are amongst the true means of
checking further advances of the great northern power, a colossus
which, if it fall not to pieces from its own bulk, must always
affect the politics of India, and in times of war may threaten, or
seriously influence, the destinies of the eastern world, not to
mention Europe. In contemplation of events such as these
speculations appear to suggest, it may be that Cashmere is des
tined to play a great part in the future history of our Indian
empire. At this stage of its history a Roman politician would
doubtless exclaim with Scipio: "Delenda est, delenda est! —
Cashmere must be occupied up to the Indus." Our more honest
policy, unless compelled to other measures by hostile events, will
probably be Confirmanda est! Strengthen it, and render it the
great northern bulwark of our Indian empire, of which, indeed,
it is a feudatory though outlying province. The great river
Indus, in its entire course, then would become the northern
boundary of British India.
Many reasons might be adduced why this noble country, lying
on our flank, should be occupied by us ! It bounds our frontier
to the Indus — that ancient and natural boundary of Hindosthan !
It would form a vast depot of supplies for our advancing armies,
and it forms, in fact, the great north-west bastion of India. A
good score of reasons — moral, political, and military — might be
given for its becoming " all red." As long, however, as the
present chief, adheres to his treaty obligations, it is difficult to
see how^any pretext for its absorption into the British imperial
system can be brought about.
The Cashmere army — recruited as it is from D6gras, the
maharajah's tribe — appears to me the most vulnerable point.
Asiatic armies have not always been loyal to the chiefs who
(neglect to) pay them ! but who, nevertheless, must always be
held responsible for their acts! Hitherto, it must be confessed
that this army has been loyal to its chief, and not unfriendly to
ourselves. Nevertheless, the History of Cashmere exhibits at
least one mutiny of the troops forming its garrison. Hostile
invasions, also, from more than one quarter have been recorded ;
sometimes with the concurrence of the Cashmere Government ! Is
there any chance of such a contingency in the future ! It is an
important question.

Appendix 1.] Cashmere. 159
We have seen that the routes from the north and north-west
— though presenting fearful obstacles — are by no means so im
pervious to Asiatic armies as has been supposed ; and we may
be quite sure that, in time of war in Europe — though no invasion
occurred — pressure in the form of threatened invasion might be
brought to bear in that quarter by our great northern rival, a
colossus whose development eastwards since the Crimean war is
all the more vigorously directed towards India and the East !
I do not say but that Cashmere, under its present well affected
chief, might not, with political management, be made a valuable
bulwark and auxiliary even in its present form, slightly modified;
and my remarks do not point to any arbitrary straining of the
present relations. The whole question is an open one ; and in
this case expediency and political good faith may possibly be
made to work together to the mutual advantage of both
countries.*

* These remarks were written twenty-five years ago. The situation
is now (1885) somewhat changed ; but I would still regard Cashmere as
a strong strategic point, and advocate its incorporation within our im
perial military system.

160 The Highlands of India. [Section I.

APPENDIX II.— <:MAKTUND."
Pages 14 and 92.
THIS noble ruin has been cursorily alluded to in Chapters
II. and VIII., and has often been described by travellers.
For details, Cunningham's learned essay on the Architecture of
Cashmere should be consulted. Here it may be briefly stated
that the present Temple — with its cloisters and precincts — was
built for at least restored) at dates between 520 — 720 a.d., by
Ranaditya and Lalitaditya ; and the site was probably occupied
by a temple of a date long anterior to the present interesting
ruin. The central chamber once contained a figure of the Sun
God in his chariot, which was destroyed by the Mahomedans.
It contained also a bust of the Hindoo Triad — Brahma, the
Creator, at morn; Vishnu, the Preserver, at noon; and Siva,
the Destroyer, at even ; such also being a symbol of the Sun —
the "mystic orb triform" of the Vedic hymn to Surya (the
Sun), translated by Sir W. Jones, which emblem appears in a
niche over the doorway. Cunningham concludes his notice of
this temple in the following words : —
"I can almost fancy that the creation of this 'Sun Temple'
"was suggested by the magnificent sunny prospect which its
"position commands. It overlooks the finest view in Cashmere,
"and, perhaps, in the known world. Beneath it lies the Para-
"dise of the East, with its sacred streams and cedarn glens, its
"brown orchards and green fields surrounded on all sides by
"vast snowy mountains, whose lofty peaks seem to smile upon
" the beautiful valley below. Such is the daily prospect from
"this happy spot, but there are occasional scenes, which for sub-
"lime magnificence, can scarcely be equalled, and certainly can-
"not be surpassed; thus when the blue sky was completely
" shrouded by heavy masses of clouds, which spanned the valley
"from side to side, I once saw the evening sun burst suddenly
"forth through the Baramoola Pass  The vast
"extent of the scene makes it sublime, for this magnificent view
"of Kashmir is no pretty peep into a half-mile glen, but the full
"display of a valley sixty miles in breadth and upwards of a
"hundred miles in length, the whole of which lies beneath the
" ken of the ' wonderful Martund.' "
 :o: 

Appendix 3.]

Cashmere.

161

APPENDIX III.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL.

No. 58— Example of a Submerged Temple in the Manasbul Lake, Cashmere.
Chap. IV., page 48.
[This temple may be regarded as typical of Cashmere archi
tecture, and closely assimilates to those still found extant at
Pandrethun, Pathun, Pyach, and elsewhere.] See page 164.

M

162

The Highlands of India. [Section I.

Nos. 59 and 60— Lion Figures from the Mosque of Zein-ul-aboodeen, Cashmere.
'An example of Hindoo Ruins utilized in Mahomedan Architecture.)
Chap. IX., page 101,

Appendix 3.]

Cashmere.

163

^v""1

No. 61— Mahomedan Gravestone at the
Mosque of Zein-ul-aboodeen. No. 63— Stone Pillar used as a milestone, near Pathun.

M2

164 The Highlands of India. [Section 1.

TEMPLES, &c.
(1). Pandrethun, a temple dedicated to Siva — not a Boodhist
temple as sometimes supposed — being so near to the modern
capitol, Srinugger (two miles), it is one most frequently visited.
Its name is a corruption of the Sanskrit word "Purana-"Disthana
(old capitol). ;It was built by Partha about a.d. 920. It is
about twenty-two feet square, with a height of forty-four feet,
and stands in the middle of a pond or tank one hundred and
twenty-five feet square. It escaped destruction when Abhi-
manya set fire to his capitol, which reduced the other limestone
buildings to quicklime. Between this point and Pampur lie
some remarkable fragments, amongst them a monolithic pillar
which must have been thirty-six feet in height, its lower portion
supported by huge female figures, with long plaited tresses like
the Greek. The largest fragment weighs twenty-eight tons, and
contains three hundred and seventy-five cubic feet. This symbol
(evidently the Phallic emblem of the Greeks) was probably
erected by Provarasenna about a.d. 410.
(2). Pathun signifies a "road" — not a "town." There are
two temples on the high road, about thirty-three feet and twenty-
four feet square, with respective heights of sixty-seven and
forty-eight feet. These temples were built about a.d. 900, by
Sankrapora. (3). Pydch, a small temple containing some exquisite carving,
situate at a village and pergunnah of the same name, which sig
nifies "clear water," was built by Raja Nar or Nand, about a.d.
490. Dedicated to Siva.
There are many other temples throughout the valley, but as
the above have been cited as examples at page 161, their elements
are here given.

( 165 )
SECTION II.
THE KOHISTHAN OF THE PUNJAUB.

INTRODUCTORY.
By the term K6histhan is meant all those mountains
of the lower ranges, subtending the Western arm of the
Himalayas, called the Pir Pinjal, which shuts in the
Valley of Cashmere, and which extends from the Indus
to the Chenab (Ascesines), and the further ranges across
that river to the Sutlej. The subject may thus be con
veniently divided into the two parts indicated.
(1) — The Highlands of the Sind-Saugor and Jetcha
Doabs, including Pakli, Dhumtore, the Hazaras,
Chach, the Chibhal; with notices of Yoosuphzai
and the Salt ranges.
(2) — The Highlands of the Rechna, Bari, and Jullundar
Doabs, including Kishtewar, Budrawar, Barmawar
(Chumba), the Kangra Valley, KCilu, and the
group of associated hill principalities — Mandi,
Sookhe't, Nadaun, etc., west of the Sutlej. (See
"Highlands of India," Vol. I., pages 55-6.)
The Highlands of the Sind-Saugor Doab, above indi
cated, nearly coincide with the limits of Potowar, the
ancient Gakhar principality, embraced by the Indus and
Jhelum, forming a broken plateau, bounded on the north
by the mountains of Hazara and south by the Salt range;
in which Doab also occur Pharwalla, DhanguUie, and
Rh6tas, three of the Gakhar strongholds, which will be
further adverted to in the course of this section.

166 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
PART I.— CHAPTER I.
THE HIGHLANDS OF THE SIND-SAUGOR DOAB.
Introductory — Military Expeditions and Rides along
the north-west frontier — Valley of the Kurrum — The
Hazdras — Along the Indus — Gundgurh — Legends —
Rawulpimdi,Murrie, and the adjacent Hills — Ooryal
Shooting in the Salt Range — Anecdotes — Marches
acrossthe Sind-Saugor Doab— HailstorrriA— Locusts —
Abbottabad & Eastern Hazdra — Dhumtore — Coins.
THE natural features of a country are often best dis
closed by military expeditions as well as shooting
trips, and as the author has had the advantage of partici
pating in at least two such expeditions during five years'
service on this frontier, he is thus enabled to recall
experiences which — as heretofore in the case of Section
"Cashmere" — are, perhaps, most conveniently introduced
in the form of a narrative of personal travel.
At the close of the Punjaub campaign several long
marches across the Punjaub fell to my lot, which with
subsequent service in the Western Doabs, afforded
considerable experience of the regions under notice.
During this period, and after, the author was twice
quartered in garrison at Rawulpindi, and upwards of two
years at Peshawer, so that many opportunities of visiting
points of interest in their vicinity were afforded. Having
comparative leisure during a portion of the time, he
freely availed himself of the opportunity to roam the
country on horseback.
The occasional ride across to Kohat in the Derajhat,
or on duties of inspection round the north-west frontier

KSK l '< mm I P

WHfm
I in? .0 .^Bfi

ESiSfcL

««Nfe

Chapter i.j The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 167
fortresses — Shub-Kudr, Michni, Aboozai— the bleak camp
of Chamkannie (close under Cherat), to which the artillery
moved out each season for practice; several expeditions
into the mountains against rebellious tribes such as the
Kabul-Kheyl Wuzzeeries, as also against those trouble
some fanatics, the Wahabees of Sitana, are referable to
this period, and could not fail to present materials bearing
on this particular section of the Highlands of the Western
Punjaub. Not devoid of pleasurable excitement were these out
ings, mingled with such pursuits as hawking in the
rolling plains of Yoosuphzai and the Derajhat; hunting
up archaeological relics in the wilds of Hazara, even into
the skirts of Cashmere, varied by the occasional chase of
a wolf or a chinkara (ravine deer or gazelle*), on the
plains of Chach, or stalk of an ooryal in the salt ranges
of the Jetcha or Sind-Saugor Doabs, or a cast for a ma
haseer in the Hurroh, the Sirun, or the Dor!
The experiences thus acquired will be availed of in the
following brief attempt to put before the reader a few
salient features of those districts: but first I must crave
leave to assume the personal form of narrative, wherein
— chiefly following the order of Vol. I. — my attempt will
be to introduce a few elements of the picturesque, as
exhibited in the natural scenery, together with notices
of the wild game to be found along those marches; and
in this I am beholden to several friends, who have kindly
come forward to supplement my own rather slender ex
periences in that way.
The nooks and corners of these rough districts of the
"Land of the five rivers," though sometimes — nay, gener-

* 1 used to hunt those beautiful creatures on horseback— rifle in hand
 but must confess I never shot one that way, though I have cut off
young antelope from the herd, by riding them, in other parts of the
Punjaub.

168

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

ally — rugged and inhospitable, are yet not without a
certain beauty of their own, especially to an eye appreci
ative of varied types of the "sublime and beautiful."
Apart from more extended excursions, during which I
certainly went over a good deal of wild country, it was
my daily habit to mount
my horse towards the cool
of each unemployed after
noon, and to ride out free
and far towards the setting
sun; a pause to see him
sink, a glance around at
the darkening landscape,
and then a gallop back to
No. 64^-Sunset in the Salt range. camp as fast as ground
permitted, to dress for mess; such was my "habit of life"
in those days of my "Quarter of a Century in the
Punjaub!" I will first recount a military experience.
In December, 1859, my valued friend and brother
officer, Captain (Dick) Mecham, was murdered by robbers
whilst travelling on the Derajhat frontier, and a force
was organized to avenge him on the tribes who were
harbouring the murderers. I had volunteered to accom
pany this force, which was assembling under that distin
guished officer, Sir Neville Chamberlain. After some
attempt to do duty with the cavalry of the Guides, then
under command of Colonel — now Sir Harry — Lumsden,
I joined No. 1 Punjaub Frontier Battery, with which
I served throughout the expedition. The force assembled
at Kohat in December, 1859, and consisted of some six
or seven thousand frontier troops with thirty British
officers. Little shot was flying on that occasion, but I
was glad to have an opportunity to serve in a highland

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 169
expedition under so able a commander as Sir Neville.
The experience of rough marching was considerable,
and rather startling at times. My immediate com
mander, Captain — now Major-General — J. R. Sladen,
certainly did not spare his horses, or shrink from ground
I should have previously considered impracticable for
"stirrup" artillery! The enemy made a sort of stand in
the upper ranges, but ,-. — = ^-s—
neither the field ar
tillery nor cavalry
could follow them
further than a march
or two beyond the

Kurrum, though they
occupied the valley i
whilst the infantry
and mountain guns No- 65— cn'the Iturrum.
chased the enemy as far as Speen-wan and Jooni in the
higher ranges of the "Sulieman" or "Pushtoo" hills. We
— the mounted branch — occupied the "Valley of the
Kurrum," but I had the satisfaction of being present at
the burning of Zungi Shah's (the murderer's) village or
stronghold — where his family was seized — but he himself,
for the time, escaped to other sections of the tribe of
Wuzzeeries (Mahsoods), and a second expedition had to
go out after him. I am glad to add that the ruffian
was ultimately caught and hanged for the murder of
my poor friend.
It was on this occasion that the slight experience of
those Trans-Indus valleys alluded to in Section XVI.
of "Highlands of India," was acquired. The remarks
on the topographical aspects of the valleys of Kurrum,
Khdst, and Dawar, need not be recapitulated, but instead
an extract from my journal may, perhaps, interest (see

170

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

Appendix I.), as more fully bearing on the picturesque
aspects and natural scenery of the region embraced by
the outer or Eastern "Suliemans" and the Pushtoo hills,
the dividing ridge between India (Alba) and Kabul, a
tract which, though generally rugged, is not without fer
tility and picturesqueness at certain points. The clear
stream of the Kurrum flowing down the valley, at places
sparkling round rocky bluffs, anon calmly widening into
fertilizing channels as it meanders between banks fringed
with alder bushes and willows amidst patches of alluvial
land, on which a few villages and water mills dot the
landscape; a pool or eddy suggestive of mahaseer; rug
ged uplands bounding the valley, rising into mountains
of considerable elevation on both sides; here and there
a solitary forest tree, perhaps a semul (cotton tree),
standing forth from the normal flat, a landmark to the
wayfarer; now and then a ridge crowned, may be, by a
group of wild, fanatical, blue-clad, shield-backed Wuzze-
eries watching the Feringhee foe, perhaps brandishing
their tulwars (swords) in the sun; the white tents of the
British and the dark-brown huts of the allies; whilst
scattered along the riverain plateaux strings of camels, a
few elephants, and the glittering phalanx of the troops
winding up the hillside in column, out of the valley, to
the attack, or re-crossing the river after the return from

No. 66— VALLEY OF THE KURRUM.
Camp at Shewa ; Troops crossing the valley.

Chapter l.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 171
the assault; such are elements of the picturesque which
might be made much of by the military artist. I, myself,
was only enabled to make one or two fugitive sketches
of these suggestive scenes, chiefly, if I mistake not, from
horseback. Such is a reminiscence of this remote valley in the
years 1859-60.
Here also it may, perhaps, be well to introduce another
military experience in the Hazara district — namely, our
military demonstration to Derbund and Umb, on the
Indus, in 1863, as illustrative of the picturesque aspects
of Upper Hazara, another march of the same Indus
frontier. During the autumn of that year, the Jadouns and their
associated tribesmen at Kubbul, opposite Torbela, on the
Indus, urged also by those persistent enemies of the
British Government, the fanatics of Sitana across the
river, began a system of menace and coercion of our
subjects at Hurriepore and elsewhere in Hazara, whom
they would kidnap, sew up in mussocks (leather water-
skins), and so tow across the Indus. If the hapless ones
survived this ordeal then a heavy ransom was inflicted.
Their aggressions had become so intolerable that a force
had to go out to protect the frontier. On the 9th of
October, 1863, a force — of which my battery formed a
component part — marched for that purpose, but as the
details are purely military it may suffice to add them
in an appendix, confining myself in this place to the
picturesque aspect of the district alluded to.*
The "picturesque" — of which this volume professes to
treat — was chiefly represented by the great north river
Indus or Abu-Sin (Father of Waters), emerging from the
dark mountains of Dardosthan, thence roaring over its
• See Appendix II.

172 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
winding and rocky bed along the tortuous valley, towards
Torbela and the Chach, enclosed by dark gneiss and
sandstone rocks, towering into the plutonic hills of
syenite — the upper ranges. The grand gorge from which
the Indus emerges, is bounded on one side by the "Black
Mountain," on the other by Mahabun — the Aornos of the
Greeks — looming as far down as "Gundgurh," the cele
brated "Mountain of Thunder." On either side of the
great river, villages of wild tribes, such as Umrzais,
Othmanzais, and Jadoons, are perched on the river ter
races and stony plateaux across the river; an occasional
strip of fertility in the re-entering alluvial bends and
lateral glens of the great river, varied by reaches of rock
and sand immediately on the river shores; the mountains
on each side rising into bleak eminences and plateaux,
generally stony, but occasionally crowned with sparse fir,
and not without a rugged picturesqueness, presenting,
however, a type of inhospitable mountain so different
from the glorious forest-clad Himalayas of India proper!
I have mentioned "Gundgurh," which terminates this
group; and, indeed, any picture of Hazara would be in
complete without some reference to that extraordinary
block of mountain, which extends for about thirty miles
down the left bank of the Indus, and then juts into the
plain, forming the north-west buttress of the Chach.
"This is one of the most remarkable mountains in the world.
It is a rock of black clay slate, capped with limestone, about
thirty miles in length, and rising to about 4,500 feet above the
sea. It is generally inaccessible on the eastern face, but three
considerable fissures run into the mountain by a gradual ascent,
until they have climbed about half the entire altitude. The
north-east corner of the mountain is accessible. Being isolated
by valleys, and not scarped with precipices on the western face,
Gundgurh might at first view appear easy of conquest, but the
fact has been proved to be far otherwise.

12 *-1

I
I

Yoosuphzais, Bonairs. Umbeyla Pass.
Jadoon Hills.
Kubbul and Sitana Villages (destroyed
by Wilde's Column, Jan. 6th, 1864.)

Mulkah and
the Swat VaUey.

Mahabun Mountain
(the Greek Aovnos).

t/mb.

TJmrzai and Othmanzai Villages
along the river Indus.

"&

P5Ba

Gundgurh.
Mouths of the Slrun at Torbela

Place where a Sikh Begt.
was destroyed in the great }->
flood of the Indus, 1839.

¦eat }¦*
9. )

Spurs of the Black Mountain.

Kriplion. Port of Derbund. British Camp, 1868-4.
No. 61-PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE INDUS FOR A DISTANCE OF 25 MILES.
{Taken from the mountain above Derbund.) see also Appendix II.

174 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
Its main strength is undoubtedly in the valour of its inhabi
tants ; but this is assisted by local peculiarities. The northern
portion of the mountain is a table upon which, and in the ravines,
dwell about four thousand inhabitants of the Mushwani tribe,
one of the bravest races in the world. The remainder of the
mountain is a long sharp ridge, of which the spurs only, which
descend westwards towards the Indus, are inhabited. The ridge
itself is rugged, and wholly destitute of water. Thus the northern
portion, called Srikot, is a natural fortress, victualled and garris
oned, and its extent being inconsiderable, the inhabitants can see
almost from their dwellings the movement of an enemy beneath,
and can muster rapidly at any threatened point to meet the danger.
All the ascents to the mountain are extremely steep and rugged.
The mountain is filled with a thorny jungle, mixed with scattered
rocks, behind which sharpshooters find secure cover. The deep
Indus, without a boat, is close at hand, beyond which the inhabi
tants can retire upon inflated hides if hard pressed. The opposite,
or western, border of the river, is occupied by warlike independent
tribes closely allied to those of the mountain. These tribes readily
afford shelter to fugitives, and as readily come forward themselves
to aid in the defence of Gundgurh.
A soldier who considers these facts, will not marvel at the
fame this mountain has acquired in the Punjaub. It is one of
the few points at which Nadir Shah failed, being here signally
defeated ; and in six battles it maintained its fame as a virgin
fortress, the last being the more bloody and disastrous defeat of
Hurrie Sing, the hero of the Sikhs at Nara."
It may be added, that it was on this mountain that
the distinguished James Abbott — to whom I am indebted
for the above extract — took his stand in 1848-49, during
the Punjaub War, having a hostile army of seventeen
thousand Sikhs at Hurriepore on one flank, and another
of twelve thousand Pathans at Attock on the other.
Here he held his own, supported by his brave moun
taineers, during the entire Punjaub War.
An occasional tiger is found on this mountain: my
friend, General James Abbott, informs me he shot two on
Gundgurh during the above period.

Chapter l.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 175
To follow up the above description of Gund or "Ounj"-
ghur — the Mountain of Thunder — it may be added that
a legend* relates that within its hollow bowels "Russaloo,"
the heroic son of Salivahana — a sort of Punjaubi Rustum
— is fabled to have shut the Rachas Tera, after having
slain his three brothers, the Rachusses Pehoon, Pagr-
putt, and Chindia. It was, in fact, into this mountain
that the Hero "Russaloo" chased the Giant Tera, who is
supposed at the present day to be shut up within its
caverns. Occasionally he endeavours to escape, but at
view of Russaloo's bow hanging at the entrance, he re
turns into the bowels of the rock with terrific roar.
"Back to the darkest gloom he turns his steps with hideous roar,
"Which rocks the mountain to its base, and thrills the affrighted
shore. "
It is a curious fact that mysterious rumblings — not
attributable to earthquake or thunder — have, at times,
emanated from this mountain; but of late — since the
great cataclysm of the Indus in 1839 — these sounds
have altogether or nearly ceased. James Abbott thus
accounts for this mysterious circumstance —
I account for this sound, and its cessation, in the following
manner, — Gundgurh is the last mountain in the long deep trough
of the Indus. Sounds uttered in narrow passes of that trough
are multiplied like the human voice in a speaking trumpet. The
last wave of sound is reflected from Gundgurh, the last mountain
of the chain. It seems to people of the plain to be the utterance
of the mountain itself. About one hundred and fifty miles above
Gundgurh the Indus cleaves the snowy Caucasus, being scarped
on either hand by gigantic cliffs, — large masses of these cliffs
plunging into the deep stream created a wave of sound, which
was borne onward by the conducting agency of the mountains on
either hand, and eventually came to the plains reflected from
Gundgurh. But about a.d. 1839 an enormous mass of the over-
* For a detail of this legend, see Appendix at end of this section.

176

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

hanging cliff fell into the river channel so as to dam up the river
for months, until the overflow of the accumulated waters burst
the dam and deluged the entire valley, carrying away alike the
rock, the forest, and the very soil. It is easy to suppose that
such a fall would bear with it all the crumbling masses of the
cliff, and leave a clear and solid scarp, which for many years
would not shed any considerable mass into the river.
To the above lucid explanation of this mysterious
afflatus of Gundgurh, I may note that nearly opposite
Derbund a spot was pointed out to me where an entire
regiment of Sikhs — having camped on an alluvial strip
of land closely under the mountains abutting on the river
— were swept away into the river and destroyed by this
flood. I have put a mark on the sketch where this cat
astrophe occurred. The effects of this great cataclysm
were both felt and heard as the rumbling from an earth
quake for many hundred miles down the river. At Attock,
lower down, many buildings, and, of course, many boats,
were swept away. The stream of the Kabul river was
rolled back as far as Naoshera, where some of the build
ings were swamped; but this phenomenon has, in a less
degree, since occurred, in floods of the Indus, which will
frequently rise forty or sixty feet in a few hours. Trees
were shown me on whose tops men had taken refuge for
several days, till the flood subsided.

-—- - ^-- - -¦:=- ~-"--

,. --^

No. 68— THE KABUL RIVER JOINING THE INDUS AT ATTOCK.
(Low water.)

Chapter i.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 177
One or two sketches I was able to make may aid to
supplement this rather meagre outline; an extract from
my journal of those days, including a "day's duck shoot
ing on the upper Indus," may further aid the picture I
could wish to reproduce of this wild and weather-beaten
country side, inhabited as it is, also, by clans as rugged
and untamed as the wild stony hills amidst the soli
tudes of which they dwell. Still, not without traits of
heroism and honour are many of these wild tribes, and
even high elements of attachment and capacity of co
hesion were these wild people found to possess, as educed
by the mild but firm patriarchal sway of Major (now
General) James Abbott, their first European ruler.*
One morning I rode down the left bank of the Indus
from Derbund, under the shadow of Gundgurh, past
Torbela. There, amidst the boulders of the Indus, I had
the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a brother
officer, Captain (now Sir) Frederick Roberts, who was
crossing into Yoosuphzai to Topi as Quarter-Master
General of the field force then assembling. In company
with another distinguished (cavalry) officer, Colonel J.W.
— whose regiment was at Torbela — we enjoyed, on the
river shore, a frugal repast. I had afterwards to ride back
to Torbela, where — being hospitably entertained for the
night by the officer left in charge of the camp — we next
day enjoyed a glorious day's duck shooting at the mouths
of the Sirun, a sketch of which I am privileged to re
produce from the "Eastern Hunters," the work of a
valued brother.f I quote my own words —
The variety of duck to be found in India is certainly very great.
But I think in no country have I found it more so than in that
* See Miscellaneous Notes, end of Section II.
t Captain J. T. Newall, late Asst.G.G.'s Agent Rajpootana States.

178 The Highlands of India. [Section II
of the Upper Indus and its tributaries. I recollect five being
shot off a small pool near Attock, each one of a different species;
and I myself had once a most enjoyable morning's duck shooting
during the Umbeyla campaign at Torbela, at the mouth of the
Sirun, in the Upper Hazara country. On that occasion, out of
eight couple bagged, seven different species were found, including,
I remember, a splendid specimen of the great mountain mallard.
The day was a very tempestous one. A heavy gale was roaring
down the river from the wild gorges above Umb and the moun
tains of Derbund, where our camp lay during the winter of 1863-4,
and flights of duck and teal were blown about in all directions.
One incident of the day's sport worth commemorating was a suc
cessful right and left shot : I brought down a teal far up to wind
ward with one barrel, say at an angle of forty-five degrees, when,
turning to aim at another — which I also killed — the first in falling
struck the brim of my hat, and dropped dead at my feet just as I
had pulled the second trigger. Once scattered, the ducks went
down the river before the wind, and then a very remarkable sight
presented itself. They all seemed to rally, and forming one long
line — stretching from bank to bank, right across the river, there
some hundred yards broad — worked their flight slowly up on
their return, The wind was so strong that their progress was
but slow, certainly not much faster than a man could walk, and
I was enabled to mount my horse and gallop towards them near
enough to get a raking shot, had the animal I rode been steady
enough to have allowed me to aim. The little Arab, however,
had been excited by a long gallop across the sands from the
mouth of the Sirun, close opposite to the fort and village of
Kubbul, on the opposite bank of the river. This was still held
by a few of the enemy, the remnant of the Sitana fanatics, at that
time engaged with the force under Sir N. Chamberlain in the
Umbeyla pass across the Indus. Sitana itself was distant scarcely
three miles up the river, and altogether, shooting under the very
nose of the enemy, added somewhat to the zest of one of the
pleasantest days' wild fowl shooting I ever had. It came on to
rain, occasionally mixed with bitter sleet, in the afternoon, and I
was glad to accomplish the sixteen miles back into camp at Der
bund before nightfall.
Proceeding, in consecutive order, we have now to con-

Chapter l.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub.

179

sider the Murrie* Hills (7457), together with Dhumtore,
Abbottabad (4166), and the Highlands of the Eastern
Hazaras. Rawulpindi, the chief military station of the district,
may, perhaps, conveniently be made the central starting
point from which to conduct the reader to such points
as it is desired to introduce.
Many a time, whilst quartered at Rawulpindi, has the
author, riding out from the station in the early dawn
before "gunfire," and carrying the cool of the morning
with him as he advanced up the hill, arrived on the
terre-plein of the "Mall" at Murrie before nine a.m.,
and found himself an hour later sitting comfortably at
breakfast with his hospitable old friend, W.O., Command
ant of the depot there. Very enjoyable were such
morning rides, — often also made in company of another

y&Sk ....

m.

* Should be Narhi. Following the alliteration current in his youth,
the author would, as in the case of Cashmere (Kasmir), still continue to
spell the word as in the text. n 2

180 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
excellent friend, J.W., carried out on five horses each.
We were used to consider ourselves well started if on the
road clear of the station before the morning gun fired.
Soon after reaching our first relay of horses at Baracow,
twelve miles off, one enters the hills saluted by the
hoarse crow of the francolin partridge; then up the
ravine, fringed with oleanders, into the spurs wooded
with "pinus longifolia," from amidst which the cuckoo's
wild note resounds from the pine-clad slopes — a home-like
sound, and one so suggestive of spring and early summer !
again, as one passed along some wooded grove the "cus
hat dove, with note of joy and peace and love" would
greet one. All nature seemed to breathe an air more
pure and sweet the farther one advanced into the higher
levels. A last change of horses at Tre"t, and then we ride
merrily on to the great brewery at the foot of the last
steep ascent into Murrie. Here the hospitable agent
often had a glass of ale to offer the occasional traveller.
Up the zigzag, past the Lawrence Asylum, we soon
arrive at the "Observatory," on the terre-plein of Murrie
hill station, whence a panorama of mountain scenery
bursts on our vision not easily to be forgotten.
At Baracow — alluded to as the first stage of this little
journey — there is a treacherous hill stream, often scarcely
a foot deep, but after rain a thundering torrent, down
which horse and man — and even mail-carts — have been
rolled: more than one traveller has there met his end.
The stream enlarges into a deep and remarkable pool below
the native village of Baracow, where I have seen a shoal
of large mahaseer fish sailing about on the top of the
water, their heads and dorsal fins plainly visible above
the surface.
A ride along the foot of these hills is very remarkable,
and leads one into most wild and weird nooks and

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 181
recesses. Ravmes cut by torrents below, rather than
ridges above, the level of the country, characterize this
region of the Punjaub. This is the land of the Gakhars.
To the left lies Noorpore, where a fine old Gakhar chief —
a pensioner of government — used formerly to reside ; one
whose wrecked fortunes had been saved by that able and
humane ruler of Hazara already mentioned (General Ab
bott), whose rule of that large province reads like a
romance of the best times of Eastern story. Called unto
that war-tormented province as Boundary Commissioner,
in five years Abbott reduced it to a state of peace and
plenty; and with unlimited sway over tribes previously
cut-throats and robbers, he had occasion to exercise his
prerogative of capital punishment only once during his
patriarchal, wise, and beneficent regime.
On the south-east of Baracow; up the ravines of the
Sewan river, the old Gakhar stronghold of "Pharwalla"*
(Perhola) is found, some miles from this point, on a spur
of the lower hills, in a wild country flanked by broken
and desolate ravines, and more than one morass girdles
in the broken bluff on which the ruined fort is built.
It is an extraordinary fact that "Ram Chunder," the
Hero of the Ramayana, is stated in Punjaub tradition
to have been born at Perhola — or Pharwalla, as it is now
called — and is fabled thence to have wandered south to
Rajgurh, ploughing a gigantic furrow from the west point
of the Kurungli mountain, which is to this day called
Rama Hullana = Rama's furrow, being, in fact, a vast cleft
or chasm between two parallel strata of sandstone.-f-
* This fort was destroyed by Baber in 1523. For an historical note
on Pharwalla and the Gakhars, I refer the reader to "The Highlands of
India, " Vol. I. , page 43 ; to which, however, I add some additional
particulars from General Abbott's Notes on the subject. See Appendix.
* General James Abbott, in the Notes to his excellent treatise on The
Ballads and Legends of the Punjaub, mentions this, and founds upon it

182 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
A regiment— H.M.'s 51st— at Rawulpindi, used to hunt
this wild, broken country with a pack of foxhounds.
They could scarcely be always followed on horseback,
but often has the author viewed from the crests of the
precipitous bluffs or "kudds," the pack running their game
across a country, I suppose, almost unparalleled in fox
hunting annals. If I recollect rightly, the quarry was
usually a jackal; nor do I recall at this moment ever
meeting a fox in my numerous rides about the wild
country adjacent; but wolves, jackals, hares, gazelles,
abound throughout the district, with peafowl, francolin
and grey (cinereous) partridges in the lower hills, and I
am informed that goorul (chamois) are found in the
slopes of the lower Himalayas adjacent to this district,
but I never saw one.
I myself enjoyed but little sport in the immediate
vicinity of Rawulpindi, where my military duties were of
and other collateral hints, a suggestion that Ham Chunder was a native
of Hazara, whose ancient name was Oodiana. He adds, — "The singular
"disappearance from histor3' of the Kingdom of Aodia after the death
"of Rama may well cause doubt whether the modern Oude can be his
"birthplace; but the author of the Ramayana (Valmiki), may have in
"ignorance adopted the Aodia of his day. The Hindoos object that
"Ram Chunder was from Aodia or Oude, but the ancient name of Hazara
"and its northern mountains was Oodiana." Abbott further notes that
Oodinagri was the ancient name of Lahore, and that a city of the same
name existed on the Jhelum near the modern city. It has to be added,
however, that a Raja Ram Chunder was eighth in descent of the Solar
line of Soorujbun Rajpoots, and nourished about the second century.
a.d. This Oodipore (Mewar) family of Rajpoots, derive from Nour-
shirwan (the just), who reigned in Persia 543 A.D. A Scythian origin
has been assigned to the Rahtore Eajpoots by Tod, as derived from Aswa
(a horse), but Abbott suggests that Iswa (lord) of the Yavan or Greeks
may be an equally probable origin. Ram Iswa= "Rameses" (or Osiris).
Coins bearing his effigy are found all over the Sind-Saugor Doab— his
physiognomy like the Goojjur tribe, the oldest in Hazara— is a Greek
type of face. The above facts point to a most interesting question, but
although highly suggestive, the legends which cluster round the Doabs
of the Ganges and holy streams of Ooterakhund are, to my thinking, too
strong per contra evidence to be resisted.

Chapter l] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 183
too engrossing a nature to admit of much search for
game; I must, therefore, trust to a friendly pen for some
records of sport in this district; and I am privileged to
make use of a friend's* journal on the subject of "Goorul
Shooting" near Rawulpindi, who says: —
"In 1854 the 66th went to Rawulpindi, where there is capital
shooting and fishing to be had. In the first range of hills towards
Murrie — the windows of which beautiful place can be seen from
Pindi flashing sometimes in the evening sun — is a village called
Noorpore. On every hill above Noorpore are a great number of
goorul, the Indian chamois. They give very difficult, exciting
sport, always being in precipitous, dangerous ground, or in the
neighbourhood of it. They are very wary as a rule, though, if
surprised sleeping in the middle of the day by a person with suf
ficient good nerve to go into the horrible ground they lay up in,
they may be easily killed by wire cartridges of large shot. We
used, however, to look for them early in the morning and late in the
evening on the grass slopes above the precipices, where they often
gave us beautiful rifle shots from above. Our tent was under a
large tree at Noorpore, and we generally had a small guard of
Goorkhas with us, whose great delight was watching for and
slaying with slugs the great fat wild hogs in the jungle at the
foot of the hills. One set of them had a little white dog, trained
to attract the herd of wild pigs to where his masters sat concealed
at one end of the field, generally two hours or so after dusk. The
pigs followed him in a body, and when within five or six yards of
the Goorkhas got a volley of slugs or bullets cut into four, that
almost invariably converted some of them into pork. Small
game, too, swarmed round Noorpore, and the tree over our tents
was, at times, festooned with goorul, pigs' heads and hams, pea
cocks, hares, and partridges. There were also one or two tigers
near Noorpore, but we never came across them. One, however,
was shot over water by Palliser. Leopards were numerous."
In the winter bears are found hybernating in the
woods round Murrie. Well do I recollect how my gallant
* Major-Genera] Sir Campbell Ross, K.C.B.

184 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
friend, W.O., whose house stood on a spur at the very
edge of the forest, thick with trees rooted down on the
sloping mountain side, whose tops were often close to his
very doors, once fired a pistol into a cavity of a tree in
which was a hybernating bear! The result was, I fancy,
rather unexpected! Bruin proved to be "all there," and
very much "at home," and bolting out scattered his
enemies like chaff before the wind.
Mahaseer fish are found in all the hill streams here
abouts. Wild fowl abound; and an occasional tiger is
sometimes to be met with in the thick scrub which, in
places, clothes the spurs subtending the higher ranges.
Not without a wild beauty of their own are these jagged
and barren ravmes of the Sind-Saugor Doab; and the
bleak and inhospitable salt-ranges which intersect them.
This is the haunt of the ooryal, or true wild she'ep of the
Punjaub! Why should I not here relate my stalk of the
patriarchal ram in that block of mountains which culmi
nate in the Neela Taku (blue peak) of the Jhelum salt
range? The incident happened during one of my
occasional outings at this period. I present a sketch
of the ground made on the spot* I approached within
fifty yards by close stalking, perhaps too near for an
effective shot, as the bullet went high of its mark, and
simply cut the old fellow's horns, knocking him down,
however. For several minutes he lay as though dead,
but on our approach to pick him up he suddenly revived,
and starting up, commenced running round and round us
in circles, till a shepherd's dog — who had accompanied
us with his master as guide — got on his track, and, as I
afterwards heard, ultimately pulled him down; but the
natives concealed his capture from me at the time and
I never got his horns. He was said to be the patriarch
— — i — ¦  '  __
* See further on.

Chapter i.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 185
of the "Neela Taku" (blue peak) of the salt range on
the Jhelum.
A friend* has favored me with some notes on ooryal
shooting in the hills below Attock, and in the vicinity
of Shaikh Bodeen in the Derajhat, which appear to me
so interesting that I avail myself of his kind permission
to mtroduce them as an annexe, my own experiences in
ooryal shooting being so scanty.
Another friend, who had exceptional opportunities of
shooting ooryal in the mountains about Attock, tells me
he shot no less than five hundred and eighty during the
four years he lived in garrison there, in the early years
of our occupation — killing seven in one day — and that
he has seen a herd of twenty-five ooryal swim across the
Indus at the point where the railway bridge now crosses
the river. He further tells me that the smaller "mark-
hore" are found near Shaikh Bodeen, and that he once
found a magnificent head of one that had got jammed in
an acacia tree, which they sometimes ascend to browse.
It seems a strange freak for a four-footed beast, but the
fact is undoubted; and in this instance the shank of the
fore leg was actually found still fixed in a cleft of the tree
in which the animal had caught himself, so to perish
miserably of hunger. This friend tells me that in his
experience he never heard the bleat of the ooryal, whereas
in my own very slight experience I have clearly done so,
proving the ooryal to be a true sheep.
To resume my own narrative. — I had been at Rawul
pindi before — as early as 1849, just after the Punjaub
campaign — and I shall not easily forget our return down
march from that station to Ferozepore with the old 4-2
B.H.A. in January, 1850. We went by the "Bukrala"
* Colonel F. R. DeBude, R.A. See end of this chapter.

186

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

pass, along the old paved Sikh road to the Jhelum, pass
ing the Manikyalla tope, erroneously supposed by some
to be the tomb of Bucephalus! As we descended the
pass, I recollect one of the locking chains of a wagon
team broke on the steepest pitch of the pass, and nothmg
could have saved the team from going over the "kudd''
but the presence of mind of the naik (native corporal)
who rode the near leader; instead of pulling up and try
ing to check his team, as nine out of ten N.C O.'s would
have done in his case, he gave the order to "gallop," and
went down at full gallop, swinging round the right angle
near the bottom of the pass in most masterly style, and
brought his team safe down the very steep incline. Had
he acted otherwise, all would have been rolled over, to a
moral. After crossing the Jhelum again, on ascending
the Kuri pass, one team of stud-breds (weedy beasts)
regularly funked the hill, and for want of pluck to put
their shoulders to their work, shut up on the ascent, and
the whole gun-carriage — horses, troopers and all — were
rolled back, and went over the side of the "kudd," falling
some sixty or eighty feet. Marvellous to relate, not a

No. 70- SUNSET ON THE JHELUM.

Chapter l.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 187
man or horse was killed, or even seriously hurt. These
are two, amongst many, incidents of that fine cold weather
march across the Punjaub I recall at the moment. What
cheery recollections are conjured up by the mention of a
"cold weather march" in the old times of the Punjaub!
A volume might be written by any old soldier of those
days, which could not fail to be most interesting. The
trumpet sounding the advance at sunrise — the bright,
crisp air of morning as we faced the march — the glittering
peaks of the Pinjal on one's left, — the umber-browns
and drabs of the opens between the spurs, fading into the
purple of the distant plains on our right — the bright
green fields at intervals around the sparse villages — the
occasional trot to warm the cattle — the halt midway for
coffee — the gallop up the occasional inclines in the style
of the old Bengal Horse Artillery — the arrival on our
"ground" with appetites ravenous for breakfast — these,
and other incidents of the road, call up many a memory
of good old stirring times one would not willingly let die.
The next time I passed along this Doab — myself in
command of a field battery — it had become easy for us
by the construction of a fine level road, even beyond
Rawulpindi, as far as Peshawer on the extreme north
west frontier across the Indus. As I am relating anecdotes
of marching, I may as well relate an incident of this
march. It was in March, 1861, that old No. 19, L.F.
Battery — afterwards F., 19 R.A. — marched, under my
command, from Peshawer, in course of relief to Rawul
pindi. The troop of horse artillery destined to relieve us
did not arrive on the expected date, and it was not till
two days' later that I at length got my route; marching
out, we met the horse artillery on the first camp out.
Dining together that evening, I heard the particulars
of the cause of delay from the officers of the troop. It

188 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
appears they had concluded their march from Akora to
Nowshera without any noteworthy incident. They had
arrived at their ground, and had "unhooked" their teams,
when the most unprecedented hail-storm I ever heard of
burst over them, the hail beating the gunners to earth,
notwithstanding their leather helmets; all the horses,
save one, got loose; mad with fear, some swam the Kabul
river, closely adjacent to camp, others ran into the sand
hills under the Khattock hills, but the majority galloped
back on their tracks on the road to Akora, whence they
had marched that morning, and did not pull up for miles.
Fortunately a Highland regiment was quartered at Now
shera, the men of which — notwithstanding that no sign
of hail had there appeared, though only two miles distant,
inferred that some catastrophe had occurred, and turned
out to catch them. Thus they were during the day all
recovered, but the battery had to halt two days to refit, as
the harness and gear was nearly cut to pieces. I mention
this as the most extraordinary case of the kind I ever
heard of. It was told me that sixteen natives were killed
by the hail in the native town near camp, and on the third
day after the hailstones fell some were brought into my
camp on arrival at Nowshera, and they were then the size
of large walnuts; rough and jagged. Those I saw had
been preserved, lying in a cleft of the nullah, and as the
temperature had scarcely fallen below freezing point since
they fell, had retained their pristine dimensions.
With a knowledge of the above facts — as the weather
continued very unsettled, and the "goles" or whirlwinds,
with hail, continued to appear traversing the country on
all sides — I had to take the greatest precaution to avoid
them. At length, at Janee-ki-sang, the last march before
arriving at Rawulpindi, we caught it fearfully; such a
night in camp I scarcely ever remember. In the morn-

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 189
ing the tents were drenched, and too wet to carry; but
as the next was our last march into Rawulpindi, I deter
mined to move off about noon, and leave the camp to
come on next day. I had not been on the march half-
an-hour when I saw I had risked too much. The storms
began to threaten; and, although I halted for several to
pass ahead — also trotted on to evade several goles or
squalls which crossed our track from the salt range on
our right to the lower Himalayan spurs on our left — I
was at length caught. I had just time to dismount,
cloak up, and put two men to hold on to each pair of
horses, when the storm burst on us. The place where we
halted was amidst deep ravmes, and I feared the restive-
ness of the horses. Luckily, however, the hail-stones
were of the ordinary pea-size dimensions, and although I
have seen a troop of horses maddened by even that, still,
on this occasion, ours stood as quiet as mice, and that
danger was averted; but the lightning flashing out of the
dark squall was really alarming, and if ever a field battery
had a chance of being blown up, I suppose old No. 19
had on that occasion. After seeing all taut, I recollect
standing at the head of the battery awaiting the result, as
each flash lightened close around us over the battery, I
recall my feeling just as in a general action one sees the
distant flash of the enemy's guns, knowing well that in a
second or two his round shot or shell will be through
your column, just so was the expectancy on this occasion;
and I certainly felt relieved when the squall had passed
without further damage than a thorough wetting to all.
The road sides and ravines all around us were running
red — the colour of the soil of the country generally —
with torrents, the result of the rain-storm. We re
mounted, and resumed our march into cantonments at
Rawulpindi, where, arriving near sunset, they were aston-

190 The Highlands of India. [Section II
ished to find us so wetted and weather-beaten, for, though
only some six or eight miles distant, not a drop of hail
or rain had fallen there. I mention these anecdotes as
illustrative of the very partial, though severe, hail storms
which in some seasons visit the north-west Doabs of the
Upper Punjaub.
Storms of "locusts" also sometimes occur, and are a
strange phenomenon of these regions. Millions are de
stroyed both in their flight, and also when the eggs have
been deposited,* it becomes the duty of the magistrate to
offer reward for destruction of the eggs, and I wish I had
the statistics of the result in the Rawulpindi division
in 1861-62 to quote. I have myself, on several occasions,
ridden through a swarm of locusts whilst in flight; and,
on one occasion, my horse and I were nearly stopped by
them, the horse plunging and biting at them furiously.
The swarms seemed to gravitate towards the snows, where
they ultimately perish. I have seen the Himalayan forests,
for miles, cleared of leaves, and with insects hanging on
the trees by millions, lethargic and moribund, though at
midday a few would take flight in the sunshine.
The site of this phenomenon was in the mountains
between Murrie and Abbottabad, a tract which contains
some noble pine-clad plateaux, where British soldiers —
including artillerymen with their mountain guns — have
made their summer residence, and there located them
selves in huts constructed by their own labour. Leading
up, by easy gradients, to these sites, excellent roads have
been constructed. These British troops have thus played
the part of pioneers, and to see their healthy, sun-browned
faces, as contrasted with the washed out appearance of
* It may not be generally known that the ' ' locust egg " is the ultimate
unit in computing the weight of the diamond, and it enters, I believe,
into the concrete of the carat.

Chapter 1.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 191
their comrades in the plains was really cheering, and sug
gestive of the good that might accrue to the British army
in India from a more thorough recognition and encourage
ment of industrial avocations in the hills. Why not try
a local system of "reserves" in the mountain districts,
combined with industrial dep6ts of convalescents !
Emerging from these upland forests, where the pure
mountain wind "soughs" through fir trees, and where at
night the silence is broken only by the distant note of
the bell bird — a species of whippoorwhil — in the wood
lands, the traveller, at the distance of about twenty miles
from Murrie, begins to descend towards the lower levels
of Dhumtore and Eastern Hazara. Here the cantonment
of Abbottabad — selected by the distinguished James
Abbott, already mentioned — is remarkable. The station
is garrisoned altogether by native troops, amidst which
is a Goorkha colony. It is not much over 4000 feet
above the sea, but being free from jungle, and situated
amidst rolling grassy hills, is extremely healthy and free
from malaria, and a fine exercising ground for troops.
Here may the stalwart soldiers of our "frontier force" be
seen to advantage — troops fit to take their place in line of
battle with British soldiers against any foe. This station
is on the military road from Cashmere to Attock, and so
occupies an important strategic site. The charming little
hill station of Tandiani, 8845 feet — twelve miles distant
— forms a delightful sanitarium for the British officers'
families who may find the summer temperature of Abbott
abad oppressive. It has already been mentioned in Vol. I.
In winter the snow sometimes lies several inches deep
on the parade ground here. The author, once riding
across from Derbund during the winter of 1863-64, to
inspect two guns of his field battery, which were there on
detachment during the Sitana disturbances that year,

192 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
found them standing in a snow-field several inches deep
on the parade-ground at Abbottabad.
This country is full of archaeological interest; — relics of
the Indo-Bactrian and Bactro-Greek kingdoms are ex
humed. Many excavations have been made by experts,
and interesting coins discovered, fixing dates and attest
ing history. Valuable historical data and relics are thus
acquired often amongst the ddbris of the mounds and
tumuli so frequent in this district, amongst them the
celebrated Manikyala-tope, by some erroneously attrib
uted as the tomb of Bucephalus. It is, I believe, simply
a "Bhoodist Dagoba." Some years ago a foreign officer in
the service of the Sikh Durbar (Allard, I think) descended
the well which leads into the centre of the mound or
tumulus, and raised the stone from the central chamber,
but was but poorly rewarded, as, I believe, only a few
Indo-Scythian or Bactrian coins, were found in it. Whilst
on the subject of coins, I may mention that imitation
coins — especially of the rare and expensive sorts — are
most skillfully manufactured by the natives of these
parts, but they may be detected by carefully inspecting
the edges, which, in the spurious one, will be found badly
welded together, having been cast in two hemispheres,
and welded together into the coin. Near Hussan Abdal
mounds, from which interesting coins were taken, have
been discovered, chiefly towards ancient Dhumtore.

\BDAL, PUNJAUB.

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 193

ANNEXE TO CHAPTER 1., SECTION II.
OORYAL SHOOTING.
Page 185.

THE INDUS IN FLOOD.
Talking of Ooryal. Have you ever been down the Indus in
June ? If you have you are not likely to have forgotten it. I
have never heard or read any description which does justice to
the savage grandeur of the " Father of Waters," as it cuts its
tortuous way through a hundred miles of rock from Attock, till it
breaks out into an apparent ocean — its shores on the horizon —
at Kala-Bagh. In June the rains have not commenced, but
hundreds of miles of mountain have poured their snows by in
numerable channels into the ancient river, and the rush of its
mighty volume between its narrowed banks of granite, and the
roar and foam of its maddened waters, are things to see, hear,
and remember ; and if you take boat at Mokhud, as I did, you
will encounter sensations — sometimes pleasant and sometimes
not — the memory of which "you will not willingly let die."
The boats have to be constructed of especial strength, and the
boatmen have spent their lives at the work, and yet fatal accidents
are common enough. You find your ideas of steering, too, up
set. Of course your steersman, with eye of hawk and nerve of
steel, ought to keep the boat's head straight to the current, but
he doesn't ; one moment you are gazing through the front door
of your thatched cabin at the rocks in front, the next you are
looking at the same rocks out of your right window, and the next
instant you get a capital view of the right bank out of your left
window, while your door gives you a charming glimpse of the
rock you have just been whirled off by a push of the stout bamboo
in the hands of one of those animated statues, your boatmen,
whose stalwart forms — constantly thrown into picturesque atti
tudes — glisten with spray in the bright sunlight like burnished
copper. But now in front, to the right — to the left — there are
rocks. Your boat is rushing straight for the jagged, black teeth
O

194 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
behind which rise the rugged hills. There is no outlet ! Are we
dashing on to destruction? Does the river disappear into some
mighty cavity, through caverns measureless to man, down into a
sunless sea? (Fancy emerging into the blazing sunlight after
such a voyage of pitchy darkness 1 ) No, — a startling, sudden
turn opens a fresh reach ; we swing round a rock, and are borne
swiftly, but safely, along as before. But note the gorgeous col
ouring everywhere. The rocks you rush by, and the cliffs above
them, are black as ebony, white as marble, or brilliant red or
orange, varied with the yellow sand and bright green bushes at
the mouths of the numerous ravines, which, in the rains, pour
their muddy streams — the drainage of the flat plains above them
— into the Indus.
And this brings me to the ooryal, but not to the ooryal shoot
ing ; that was reserved for a later day. Though plenty of water
pours through the ravines, and lodges in the hollows of the rocks
after the rains have commenced, there is none at all, and the
whole country is parched, during the dry weather, and the river
is the only resource of all animal life ; and thus it was I was
delighted with the sight of over a hundred ooryal in one spot at
the mouth of a gorge, some with their square looking heads bent
down and horns reflected in the water were drinking, others
were standing behind in clumps, and more were coming with
slow and stately steps down the sides of the ravine. To have
shot one would have been a useless cruelty, for it was impossible
to stop and obtain the body. The sight was calculated to raise
the enthusiasm of a shikari, and I determined that if there was
any ooryal shooting to be got near the station I was bound for, I
would " try for it."
SHEIKH BODEEN.
About thirty-five miles north-west of the frontier station of
Dera Ismael Khan (affectionately known as Derah Dismal) and
twenty-five west of the nearest point of the Indus lies Sheikh
Bodeen Sir, the highest point of a remarkable range of hills
bordering one side of the fertile plains of Murrie. The Sir is
4516 feet above the level of the sea, and nearly 4000 above the
burning plains at its feet. I am assured on good authority that
" this hill is of limestone and sandstone, and on the highest point
is the sanitarium for this frontier. The rock is stratified, and

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 195
contains marine fossils, and, perhaps, the bones of miocene
animals." I may add, from personal observation, that I have
known it to contain the bones of animals of the present geological
era, and this is how I made the discovery.
A ride of over thirty miles of flat, hot, and dusty plain, brings
you to the mouth of a narrow, rugged pass. The sides are com
posed of rounded boulders let into hard clay, which has assumed
a thousand fantastic forms, culminating at top into needle points
and knife edges. These rocks are unpleasant climbing, as the
boulder your foot has just left slips away, leaving an impression
smooth as that of a boy's marble in wet sand. Eventually you
arrive at the crest of Sheikh Bodeen, which is not a peak, but a
plain broken by ravines, where stands the Sanitarium, which, in
my time, consisted of one large " mess-house," and a neat little
cottage built by the commissioner. The mess-house was the
common property of all the officers of Dera Ismael, and has held
many a jolly party, happy at escaping for a few clays from the
stifling heat and dust of the cantonment into the comparative
coolness and pleasant breezes of the hill.
The first thing was to get a good shikari, so I sent for "Sum-
mund Khan," a gaunt mountaineer with a rugged not unkindly
face, piercing black eyes, very dirty scull cap surmounted by a
brown rag of a turban, the characteristic long blue skirt of the
frontier tribesmen reaching almost to the ankles, and sandals
on his feet. The frontier force know that costume well. How
often have skirmishers toiled up a rugged hill — receiving an
occasional shot, but seeing nobody — till, as they neared the
boulder-strewn crest, breathless and separated from each other
by rocks, the whole summit has suddenly burst into life, the air
resounding with cries of "Ullah, Ullahl" a torrent of black
forms — bare-headed, with glaring eyes and flashing swords —
leaping from rock to rock, and in an instant slashing right and
left, dealing death and destruction, and not to be stopped till
lower down they meet the bayonets of the supports and the grape
of the mountain guns, when broken — like the spray of their own
mountain torrents — they disperse and vanish as rapidly as they
had appeared.
SUMMUND.
When I said to Summund "I will give you five rupees for
02

196 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
every ooryal I shoot," he looked at me gravely, then raised a
warning finger, shook his head slowly from side to side, and told
me in very bad Hindostanee that I ought not to talk like that.
Perhaps he doubted my sanity or my ability to keep so lavish a
promise, or the existence of so much money in the world I The
fact is, Summund belonged to an innocent race, who do not
understand the value of money, or perhaps it would be better to
say who did not appreciate money at its true value ; at least, I
think that you may say that of people who do not hesitate to
knife a poor woman sleeping on her string cot on the top of her
mud hut for the sake of the eighteen pennyworth of jewelry on
her! I don't mean to say that Summund Khan would quite
have gone to that length with, say, his own mother ; but I can't
help suspecting it might have gone hard with one of his " wife's
relations" (as Artemus Ward has it), had that lady been repos
ing with two rupees' worth of jewelry on her, and had Summund
been in difficulties about his rent, and had "anything happened"
he would have been considered to have acted as became the father
of a family, not only by his own tribe, but by every clan between
the Kyber and the Bolan, and a very long way on both sides.
When we started, each of us with a double rifle, Summund
made straight from the mess-house for Dera Ismael, as the crow
flies, and a few hundred yards brought us to the edge of a preci
pice of at least 3000 feet sheer, whence a magnificent view of the
river, the Derajhat, and the Sulieman range, spread out below us.
I was particularly struck with the fact that the brown, dry,
parched plains appeared at this height above them diversified
with many colours, and presented the appearance of a prettily
painted map. Our way lay along a crest across slabs of rock
sloping inwards, i.e. — away from the precipice — and I particularly
remember one with an especially white and glistening marble sur
face, which I felt might have seriously interfered with sport had
it sloped the other way. After half-an-hour of this work I began
to doubt the existence of ooryal, when Summund took a turn
down a slab which brought us to a ravine, evidently the bed of a
roaring torrent at times, though now perfectly dry. The water
had formed a succession of perfectly smooth cups hollowed out of
the rock, and we descended rapidly from one to another of these,
till reaching a point where the ravine took a rapid turn, Sum-

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 197
mund beckoned me to his side. Looking cautiously over the
edge, I saw that the ravine opened out a little below us into a
tiny valley — amphitheatre shaped — in which other ravines met.
A miniature lake occupied the centre, with bushes and small
trees around it, and along the sides of the ravine. A hopeful
place, certainly, for ooryal, or anything else with life in that land
of drought. Dazzled with the glare I saw nothing at first, but,
following the direction of Summund's finger, I presently descried
a fine old ooryal browsing under a tree. Half hidden by the
trunk was another just beyond. I saw no more. Now, a down
shot is, as every shikari knows, a difficult one ; there is little
more than the top of the animal's back to aim at, and a hair's
breadth in "the elevation" sends your bullet just over, or just
under, the right place. I laid for the old one. What happened
to him the smoke of my rifle prevented my seeing at first, but the
result was startling in another way, for the report started the
valley into life ! it appeared swarming for a moment as though
the very boulders had turned into ooryal, rattling down this ravine
and up that, down this hollow, and over that crest ! — ooryal every
where ; and in half a minute all had disappeared and left the
valley as silent as death — till Summund grunted, then the echoes
woke again. Three separate grunts of satisfaction — hollow, son
orous, but yet conveying to the imagination the chink of silver,
of say, five rupees' worth of silver per grunt. Four times had my
rifle rung out, and three ooryal lay dead. The old one was a pot,
but the others were runners ; and I don't believe I missed the
fourth either; only old Summund was in such a hurry to "hullal"
those knocked over, that he did not care to let his eyes dwell long
enough on my last shot : a fine young buck poised for an instant
on a knife-edge against the sky; he plunged over as I fired — dead
I say ; and as it is twenty-six years ago, and nobody is likely to
deny it, I shall continue to say — dead.
Summund's face was a picture when he got the rupees.
" Ullah," he said with guttural thankfulness, and you could see
he was adding internally, " see what a provision of fools the Be-
nificent has prepared for true believers ! " but suddenly a startled,
grave, and anxious expression came over him, and the rupees
were wrapt in a rag, and huddled away into the darkest recesses
of his clothes. He remembered his dearest friends and relations.

198 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
What would his life be worth if they only suspected one third of
the truth ?
Of all the aggravating things that can happen to a shikari —
well, never mind it; it is a long time ago, and yet it rankles
when I think of itl — But just fancy it happening to yourself. A
dear friend of mine — we were fellow subs in one of the most famous
troops of horse artillery the world has ever seen, the old Bengal
H.A. — appeared by a curious coincidence of circumstances at my
side on the top of Sheikh Bodeen.
Old Summund had taken a totally different direction this time.
He had sent men down various valleys around to look up ooryal,
and we were standing on a level plain, sloping down on all sides
without a rock, tree, or bush to give us cover, when suddenly a
group of ooryal twenty strong appeared from below, and made
straight for us. They appeared perfectly dazed ; seemed to have
their attention entirely taken up with something alarming behind
them, and took not the least notice of our group crouched motion
less on the earth. My friend and I were sitting squeezed against
each other, as close to the ground as possible, with guns cocked.
Nearer and nearer came the doomed herd. Fifty yards, thirty,
twenty, — surely they must see us now. "Don't fire ; don't fire,"
I kept saying. Then, as they passed within ten yards, — " Now,
give it them, old man." Bang, bang, went his rifle ; and over
went two ooryal, dead ; click, click, went my locks. I had made
up my mind to drop at least two with each barrel, and now — well,
the fact is I had forgotten to load! My comrade remarked a
curious muffled sound proceeding from the rocks several times
that day, and strangely enough, from the direction I happened to
be in ; a sort of language — no, it wasn't Pushtoo from the shik
aries, nor Hindostanee from the servant ; more like English.
The sounds wern't strong, but the English — if it was English —
was certainly strong. Wonder what it was 1
The road from the frontier station of Kohat to Rawulpindi
crosses the Indus at Kooshal Ghur fcGhat. The crossing is
generally slow work for a battery or regiment, and Jhund, six or
eight miles from the left bank, is considered a sufficient march
for the day. On one such occasion I explored a mass of ravmes

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 199
which run into the Indus parallel to the Jhund road. I had no
shikaries, and only an orderly with me, and my gun was a repeat
ing rifle of American manufacture, which carried seven charges
in its stock, and with the working of which I was indifferently
acquainted. It was a splendid opportunity for testing my own
qualities as a stalker. If I could work myself scientifically with
in shooting distance of a herd of ooryal, 1 felt I should rise
considerably in my own opinion as a shikari. I prudently re
solved, however, in any case, to keep my opinion to myself. The
fact is failure was much more likely than success.
The main ravine looked down upon from the elevated plateau
at the Jhund side presented, apparently, an inextricable network
of smaller ravines, each with its pinnacles and knife edges of rock,
all so like one another that once you descended into them it
was very difficult to keep a predetermined course for projecting
points, and remarkable points of rock lost all individuality once
you were among them ; and, moreover, from the bed of the ravine
these forms presented a totally different aspect from what they
offered from above. The winds too, were, baffling ; each gully
appeared to have a particular, private, and especial wind of its
own laid on, any one of which might traitorously carry infor
mation to the game. Also, although the walking was easy enough,
footsteps would resound, tread you never so lightly, and rocks
crumble and roll away under your boots. Fortunately I made
the discovery that ooryal were little disturbed by falling stones,
as they perpetually dislodge stones themselves while feeding. It
is much easier to move noiselessly in these sandals. My difficul
ties commenced as soon as I reached the bottom. I could
recognise no point I had marked ; however, I knew the general
direction, and shortly I was able to make out a part of the semi
circular range above mentioned. I determined on giving it a
wide berth ; working round, and, if possible, ascending it from
the opposite side. This I was able to effect ; and, unfortunately,
only too well. I was absolutely on the flat top before I knew it.
I advanced cautiously to the edge, but not with all the precaution
I should have used, and, consequently, when I peered over the
edge, I found an ooryal looking straight up in my face at a dis
tance of five yards. Before I could level he gave the alarm, and
there was a rush of four ooryal to one part of the cliff, whence a

200

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

descent quite practicable for ooryal commenced. In two bounds
they were behind a rock. My shot struck the rock just as the
last ooryal rushed past the dangerous point, and when I next
saw them they were two hundred yards off, at the bottom of the
ravine. At three hundred yards one of my shots struck one of
them, either in the shoulder or fore leg, for it limped off. I had
spoiled all by a little precipitation at the last moment ; but I
had still the consolation of knowing that I had worked up to the
ooryal in a fairly satisfactory way.*

* The above interesting note on "Ooryal Shooting" was written for
the author by his old friend and comrade, Colonel F. E. DeBxuW, R.A.,
but by some unauthorized means it found its way into ' 'Land and Water,"
and appeared in that publication.

1

silt-sS^

^^^

XIV. -S/S lV/U7£fl GILBERT'S TREE, NAOSHERA,
where he drew rein and halted in his pursuit of the Afghan cavalry after the Battle ofGoojerat, 1849.
[Here the road crosses the Kabul river to Hoti Murdan in Yoosuphzai. This tree was
nearly submerged in the great flood of the Indus in 1839, and twenty natives took
refuge in its branches for thirty hours. It has since been cut down.]

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 201

CHAPTEE 2.
Kohdt to Peshawer — Ride along the Momund frontier to
Michni, Aboozai, and Shubkudr — Archaeological
Anecdotes — Hawking in Yoosuphzai & the Derajhdt
— Gazelle Hunting in the plains of Chdch — Wolf
Hunting — Anecdotes — Mahaseer at Aboozai, and in
the rivers Indus, Dor, Sirun, and HurrSh — Fairy
land — Ethnological.
BEFORE leaving the north-west frontier it seems ex
pedient to put forth a few words connecting the
Trans-Indus valleys, noticed on page 171, with the
Hazara country alluded to in the preceding chapter.
I will take up the narrative from the return of the
Kurrum expedition, and interpolate a short frontier ex
perience to lead up to the marches of Derbund and
Upper Hazara, to which the reader was there (page
171) so abruptly transported.
Returning to Kohat about the middle of January, 1860,
I found myself hospitably entertained for a few days by
my friend, Captain M  , in whose garden — at that
frontier station — I recall the clear English-like brook,
along the banks of which a pair of woodcocks used to be
flushed nearly every season, and from whose house several
hawking parties were arranged. They are detailed fur
ther on, together with some "Notes on Hawking," kindly
thrown together at my request by my friend and brother
officer, Captain M  .
At length, one fine morning, we ride away from Kohat
back to Peshawer, across the kotal between Cherat —
described in Vol. I. — and the Afreedie hills. Here we
gallop, as, although not ordinarily dangerous, passing

The Highlands of India. [Section II.

No. 72— THE PUSHTOO RANGE.
English travellers have been fired on by the said Afreedies
at long ranges, and even waylaid. Arrived at Peshawer,
I find myself, after a short interval, ordered on duty of
inspection round the three frontier fortresses — Michni,
Aboozai, and Shubkudr.
Off we ride one fine crisp morning, with two sowars
(troopers) on the Michni road, crossing the main branch
of the Kabul river a few miles from Peshawer, whose
willow-fringed rivulets we had left behind at daybreak, —
the Tartara mountain looming on our left. After tiffin
and inspection at the little frontier fort, in the early
afternoon, we resume our ride along the Momund frontier
towards Aboozai, which we are bound to reach before
nightfall Rounding one spur, where the road passes
close to the Momund frontier, my orderly closes up and
says, "Sahib! please Allah, here we should gallop, as these

No. 73— THE TARTARA MOUNTAIN, FROM PESHAWER.

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.
"sugs (dogs) of Momunds may chupaow at any moment;
who knows?" I take the hint, and, touching "Blue Peter"
with the spur, away we go at full gallop across the country
of Yusoophzai to Aboozai, where I make the pleasant ac
quaintance of the commandant, who presses me to stay
two or three days with him in his remote fort.
The commandant at the fortress of Aboozai had estab
lished the best relations with the neighbouring Pathan
chief, with whom he would exchange friendly letters. Thus
a modus vivendi was arrived at between them. Never
theless, occasionally the Momunds would turn out and fire
long shots at his posts, who would return the fire, and so a
sort of general action, at perhaps half-a-mile range, would
go on, and nobody the worse, for I could not hear that
anyone was ever hit, and the whole thing was a sort of
make-believe warfare.* Here, on this branch of the Kabul
river, on another occasion, I hit on the time of emigration
of the mahaseer fish; millions of them were passing down
stream towards the Indus, where they remain in deep
water during winter. Mahaseer of, I suppose, near a hun
dred pounds in weight, are seen rolling about in the Indus
at Attock and elsewhere during the cold season.
On leaving Aboozai we return by Shubkudr fort, around
which there is one of the deepest snipe jheels I ever met,
even dangerous, too, for it is no uncommon thing to fall
into a hole up to the armpits whilst shooting it. I my
self did so. This is the only place in India, except
Cashmere, where I have heard of the "Will o'the Wisp!"

* It was either here or at Peshawer, in the good old lawless days, that
a couple of Afreedies or Momunds would advance on a picket at night,
each holding the end of a long rope, between which strands of lighted
slow match were tied, giving the appearance of the approach of a strong
band of the enemy to attack : after creating sufficient alarm the men at
the ends would throw down the rope and run away! This practical joke
appeared to us a refreshing incident in frontier warfare.

204 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
The Emperor Baber, in his memoirs, mentions the hip-
popotamos as still existing in the marshes of the Kabul
river in his day.
At Shubkudr a singular episode occurred to a friend,
who, like myself, was on half-yearly duties of inspection
at this frontier fort. Having to test the ammunition,
he, unwittingly, fired the signal gun of the fortress three
times, and sent up a blue light, on which all the frontier
pickets and guards came gallopping in to the fort for
protection, believing an inroad of Momunds, in force,
must have occurred. The result was a good laugh, and
much swearing in Pushtoo !
This brings me into the Yoosuphzai valley, which I
wish to introduce, and to which I have alluded on two or
three previous occasions as an arena of Archaeology and
"Hawking." The whole country is full of interest, and
even to this date Alexander's route through it to the
Indus, and beyond that river to the Jhelum may be
traced by a careful and knowledgeful explorer. The
author, whilst quartered in this district for several years,
had opportunities of carrying out, in a mild way, a few
such explorations. Amongst other sites, "Takt-i-bhai,"

No. 74— A CORNER OF TAKT-I-BHAI.

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 205
in Yoosuphzai, as well as the other points mentioned in
Chap. 1 were visited. A sketch of a corner of Takt-i-
bhai is given, made whilst engaged in field sports, which
I always contrived to make subsidiary to, or consonant
with, graver pursuits. Whilst hunting chinkara (gazelle)
on the plains of Campbellpore, or fishing in the Sirun or
the Hurroh near Hussan Abdal, I have been led to
wander into the adjacent Dhoond ranges; or, again, in
stalking the ooryal in the eastern spurs of the salt range,
have been led to Rhotas and Dhangulie — other old strong
holds of the Gakhars, of which wild clan a sketch is
given elsewhere. Wild desolation characterises these
reaches of the Upper Punjaub. This range is comprised
within the Sind-Saugor Doab — the ancient Potowar —
which may be regarded as the nidus or native seat of
the Gakhars, the representative of whom — an old chief, a
pensioner residing near Rawulpindi — was well known to
the author as early as 1849. He was a descendant of
Sultan Sahrang, the great Gakhar chief of the sixteenth
century.* I have mentioned Takt-i-bhai — apparently a ruined
city of the ancient Gandaridse — and I cannot here refrain
from giving an anecdote (apropos of coins) which may
amuse my readers, as it certainly did the author and
several friends who were present. We had been hunt
ing in the Yoosuphzai country, and about midday went
up to Takt-i-bhai to eat our tiffin (lunch), and look
round the ruins. Now one of our party — a distinguished
officer of Highlanders — was mad on coins; and as I
happened to have a few curious pice and other copper
coins, collected in my rides about the country, I con
trived, as I went round, to deposit a few in crevices and
under stones of these remarkable ruins. We brought

See Appendix.

206 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
our friend round, and commenced search, when it was
arranged that he should be the first to find. To see his
zeal and eagerness to pounce on the supposed treasure
was really refreshing; and so much did I sympathise with
his joy on finding them, that I had not the heart to dis
illusion him. I delayed doing so from time to time, until
at length at the Guides' mess the same night he produced
his treasure for inspection; even then I had not the heart
to undeceive the worthy gentleman, though I thought I
caught a twinkle in Colonel Lumsden's eye, who evidently
— as he stated — thought he had seen similar coins in the
bazaar of Hoti-Murdan. One or two of them, however,
were rather rare samples of the country pice, and I kept
my secret for months. At length, at my friend's own
hospitable mess, I disclosed to him, over the wine, the
imposture I had played on him. I humbly begged his
pardon, and he took it marvellously well, affecting to
laugh, but I could see that it was a sore subject, and I
was heartily sorry I had allowed the joke to go so far.
I have mentioned hawking in Yoosuphzai and the
Derajhat. My experience of this sport has not been very
great, but I have on several occasions been out with the
falcons, both the Baz (peregrine) and Chirrig hawks.
At Hoti-Murdan, in Yoosuphzai, the Guides kept Per
sian hounds, which would follow the chinkara (ravine
deer) when struck by the hawk. I have not seen this
myself, but I believe fine runs were sometimes seen in
Colonel — now Sir Harry — Lumsden's time, with whom
I was once out: on this occasion finding no deer, the
hawks were flown at bustard, and these, also, being scarce,
the "chirrigs" were allowed to keep their eye and wing
in by flying at an owl! whereby resulted one of the
most amusing combats I have anywhere seen. The owl
being started, immediately commenced gyrating upwards

Chapter 2.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 207
by circular sweeps, gaining a higher plane at each re
volution; and the hawks (there were two) being flown in
pursuit, adopted exactly similar tactics, each trying to
get above the other. At length one of the hawks having,
by great exertion, gained an upper plane above the owl,
made his coup and struck at the owl. A miss! The
owl, turning on his back, claws up, as the hawk swooped
on him, managed to dodge him, the hawk descending
with such velocity as not to be able to recover himself
before closely approaching the earth. However, he then
began to again gyrate in the ascent for another attack.
The second hawk then made his coup and missed,
enacting the same programme as his comrade. It then
became most exciting to see the three birds gyrating
upwards, their planes of orbit intersecting each other
at different altitudes till nearly out of sight in the
sky. At last one of the hawks managed to make good
his coup, and striking the owl, both birds fell to the
earth together like a stone, from an altitude of many
hundred yards. On riding up to the point we found the
little hawk standing in the attitude of a conqueror on
the owl's body, whose head he had twisted off, and held
in his claw. The hawk was by far the smaller and less
powerful bird; nevertheless, the little warrior had a most
complete ascendency, /g^* and single-handed had

No. 75— FALCON AND OWL.

W8 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
vanquished his enemy, the faineant owl — a most inter
esting sight to witness !
The "oobara," or bustard florican, is the most common
quarry for hawking in the Derajhat, and I have had
many runs after them. They will sometimes fly a mile
before overtaken, and then the oobara's means of defence
are on a par with those of the skunk of North America.
He squats and voids a viscous discharge over the victo
rious hawk, whose feathers are found clotted as though
with bird lime from the "fowl" discharge.
Other game is also often struck, such as hares, quail,
partridges, etc.; and I recollect during the expedition of
1859-60, against the Kabul-Kheyl Wuzzeeries, we had a
baz (peregrine ?) in our camp, who — shooting being inter
dicted along the march — kept our table well supplied
with game in the Meerunzai and Kurrum valleys. Once
I recollect seeing him strike a jackal (evidently in mistake
for a hare), when, his claws being deeply imbedded in the
fur, he nearly fell a victim, as I suppose had we not ridden
up and released him, the jackal might have turned on
him, and probably got the better of the combat. It would
have been an interesting fight to see, but a baz is too
valuable a bird to have his life risked thus, being worth,
perhaps, R100 = £10, when trained; so the jackal was
chased off the field. I believe that in Persia the ger
falcon and black eagle are trained for hunting, and will
strike very heavy game, — including even man.*
I have allowed myself to dwell on these reminiscences
of sport as illustrative of life in the further doabs of the
Punjaub in the good old times, when my military duties

* I supplement these reminiscences of hawking by a paper on "Hawk
ing in India," and training falcons, kindly furnished by a friend (M.-
Genl. George Maister) the owner, if I mistake not, of the bird alluded to
in the text, perhaps a goshawk. See Annexe to this chapter.

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 209
led me there. Small game also abound. The Siah-seen
(or black-breasted ground partridge) is a small bird I
have shot amidst the ravines under Cherat, the sanitary
resort of Peshawer. I do not recollect having seen ante
lope (black buck) in the upper Punjaub, though I have
chased them, rifle in hand, in the sandy reaches and
scrub of the Bari Doab, near Haruppa and elsewhere,
along the old Mooltan road.
I have on one or two occasions hunted gazelle on
horseback on the plains of Chach between Attock and the
Hurroh, in which stream, also, fine mahaseer are to be
found, as well as in the Indus at Attock, where I have
seen specimens of, I suppose, at least eighty or a hundred
pounds weight, rolling about close to the ferry boat. In
the Hurroh, also, are some fine fish. My friend, Leonard
B  ., once hooked a large fish, which, after floating
about on the top of the water like a log, finally sank hke
a stone to the bottom, and there sulked. As he resisted
all mild persuasions, in the form of stones, to move him
from under the rocks, L.B. had to send down a native
with a stick to stir him up. The native came up quite
frightened at his size. Nevertheless, L.B. got him at last,
and he proved to weigh thirty-two pounds only.
I have myself occasionally fished the Hurroh, the Dor,
and the Sirun but with very poor success. I have also
had a nice day's fishing at a fountain and stream at old
Dhumtore, catching with the fly a lot of mahaseer fry,
the largest about the size of a small dace. On the waters
of these streams one occasionally may observe specimens
of the larger grebe, their long snake-like necks craning
over the rocks in mid-stream.
I have both seen and chased wolves on horseback in
the sandy ravmes between Chamkannie and the Kohat
road, not far from the Cherat hills. As I am on the sub-

210 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
ject, I will give two anecdotes, both of which I know to
be true, and in one of which I myself took part.
During one of my long rides I fell in with a sporting
sort of Pathan on the Kohat road, who was proceeding
along the track on horseback, with greyhounds. We ex
changed salutes, and entered into conversation, during
which he related the following anecdote: —
"Sahib," said he, "you see that bridge over the ravine;
"well! close there, in the khe't, a man who was at work
"saw a wolf go into a hollow in the earth above the
"bank of the ravine, — there, where I point. He crept
"after it, and throwing himself upon the wolf, caught it
"by the ears, and captured it, binding it with his plough
"rope and bringing it to the village here."
I laughed, and expressed surprise; when he pressed me
to go with him into the village and see the wolf. I ac
cordingly accompanied him, and sure enough he actually
showed me a wolf shut up in an empty house in the village.
He went on to say, "More, sahib! if you like to ride
"this way, rather earlier, to-morrow, I will show you the
"wife or mate of this wolf, who hangs about in the same
"ravine, and then, please Allah! we will chase him."
I agreed to this also; and on the morrow, having armed
myself with a boar-spear — revolvers we always carried as
our usual side-arm at Peshawer, in those days — I joined
my Pathan friend at the bridge; we proceeded into the
ravine in search of the wolf. My friend was "got up" ex
tensively for the occasion; was mounted, and armed with
a spear, and hounds with him. Sure enough, we had not
gone five hundred yards up the ravine before we started
the wolf. Tally ho! With couched spears we went along
the sandy bottom at racing pace after him, and really
seemed almost as though we might close on him, when
he also took to earth, and ran into a cleft in the bank at

Chapter 2.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 211
the exact spot where his mate had been "caught." We
thought we had him, and dismounted; my friend taking
up a position at the entrance, and I on top of the bank
at the supposed exit, whilst the dogs went in after him;
but he either sulked, or the hole had extensive ramifi
cations, as after an hour's work we failed to get him out,
and came to the conclusion that the other wolf had mis
taken the entrance to the cave and got into a shallow
crevice or cul-de-sac, from which he had been unable to
extricate himself when the native labourer captured him.
The whole thing struck me as a singular episode in wolf
economics. These were grey or Siberian wolves.
Now for another anecdote on wolves, in which, how
ever, the quadruped was the aggressor. During the
artillery practice season of 1860-1, whilst in camp at
Chamkannie, — a company of H.M.'s 7th Fusiliers was
attached to our camp as escort. One night one of the
sentries of that regiment was attacked by a wolf, who
closed in on him, and on being charged dodged the
bayonet and got within his guard, so that he had to
shout for help. The next sentry came up at the double,
and between them they despatched the wolf, whose skin
I purchased from the man next morning. This, also, was
a she wolf. The dog wolf hung about our camp for
several days, and one morning a young officer, riding out
of camp early, came upon him. The wolf, on "his hur-
dies," sat on the road side cooly regarding him, and
would not budge on the officer's approach. Unfortunately
he had no revolver with him — as nearly always was the
custom, even on "off-duty" rides in those days — so the wolf
escaped. These, also, were of the Siberian variety, who
are often seen in the north-west Punjaub during winter;
and, in the present instance, were no doubt famished and
desperate with hunger. p 2

The Highlands of India. [Section II.
Still another anecdote on wolves, and I will leave the
subject. A friend of mine was riding in the jungle near
Meerut, in the north-west provinces, when he heard
fearful screams proceeding from a field he passed. On
approaching, he encountered a strange sight, and paused
to view it before interfering. A wretched half-clad native
was squatted on the ground huddled up in his "kupra"
(clothing), whilst a wolf, of the Indian black variety, was
gradually drawing on him in circles — closer and closer
by degrees — and no doubt would have ultimately closed
in and attacked the man had he not been chased off by
my friend, who pursued him for several miles. It is,
however, a rare occurrence for a wolf to attack man, and
no doubt, in this instance, the beast was emboldened by
the cowardly attitude of the man.
I have often pursued a wolf alone, rifle in hand, on
horseback, but cannot say I ever got near enough, ex
cept in the case I have mentioned, for a sure shot,
though occasionally sending a parting salute after the
rascal at two hundred yards' distance or so: galloping at
the top speed of my gallant bay "Xenophon," I seemed
never to approach nearer the gaunt beast "loping off" at
a swinging amble, which he no doubt imperceptibly
quickened so as to keep the pursuer at the same safe
distance behind.
With reference to the term "Chibhal," which includes
the upper hill country embraced by the rivers Chenab
and Jhelum, some description has been attempted in
Sec. I. (Cashmere). The country is traversed by all the
routes to the Cashmere valley therein mentioned. It is
essentially the country of the "Chibs" (or Sibse) many of
whom are Mahomedans. The chief principalities of this
region are those of Poonch and Rajaorie, subtending the
Rutton Pir,

Chapter 2.] The KShisthdn of the Punjaub. 213
Jummoo was the stronghold, and is still the lower
capitol of the Dogras, the dominant class of this region,
to which the Maharajah of Cashmere belongs, and this is
also believed to be a Chib tribe.
The author once came straight down from the Kuri
pass vid Budil to Aknoor, an important fort on the
Chenab, thereby traversing the heart of the country
called "Kurshall," — a wild tangle of mountain and ravine
flanked by precipitous cliffs, covered chiefly with pinus
longifolia — with other conifers — as one approaches the
slopes of the Pinjal. The Banihal pass was, in the days
I write of, kept "dark" by the mahajarah, and was
supposed to be his private road into Cashmere: the road
runs through Peristhan — literally fairyland — and its fea
tures may be fairly indicated by that epithet; though,
indeed, the whole country of Cashmere merits the appel-
ation. All these points are included within the Chibhdl.
The ethnological groups to be found west of the Jhelum
need not here be further dwelt on than as involved in
the sketch of the Hazara country, already placed before
the reader (page 173).

No. 76— LAKE HEAD OF RIVER NAINSOOKH, KAROHAN.

214 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
I have scarcely cared to lead my reader into the Dardu
country or upper Karghan Valley, where, however, in
tensely interesting features are presented, and grand
forests are encountered, above which the snow peaks of
the Durawer mountains pierce the deep blue sky.
The illustration (No. 76) of "The Head- waters Lake of
the Nainsookh River," which drains this valley, is, how
ever, given as illustrative of the sub-nivean watershed of
these hills, further into which, however, it is not here
proposed to take the reader.
The country from Iskardo to Derbund — along the Indus
— is still almost unknown to Europeans. It presents a
fine field for research. Within it is included that grand
mountain Nanga-Parbut (26,629 feet), which towers
above the whole border chain of mountains, and stands
forth bold and solitary, the sentinel of Cashmere towards
the north. This country was the cradle of the great
clan of Chukk or Chak, so often referred to in the
Historical Sketch of Cashmere, as rulers of the country.*
This must, I think, conclude the slight sketch of the
Highlands of the Sind-Saugor and Yecha Doabs.
Across the Chenab, we arrive in the country of Kishte
war and Boodrawar, which districts belong to Part II. of
the "Highlands of the Punjaub," and are, therefore,
reserved for the next chapter.
• See pages 137—40.

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 215

ANNEXE TO CHAPTER 2— SECTION II.

HAWKING IN INDIA.
I will endeavour to give a rough detail of some reminiscences of
the sport of Hawking in the Punjaub, where I was stationed for
some years, and for several winters I followed this very exhilarating
sport. To commence with, I will give an account of the hawk
used in hawking the hubara (Otis Macqueenii). It is the
Cherugh of India, or Saker, (Falco Sacer). It is a migratory
bird, breeding in Affghanistan, and appears in India only in the
winter months. The birds generally used are caught by the
natives, when they first come down to the plains, in a very simple
manner. In the months of September and October the hawk
catchers are on the look out for these hawks, which are to be
seen sailing high up in the sky. The men are prepared for them,
and have at hand a common kite (Milvus govinda) to let loose for
a quarry. He has been prepared by having had his eyes partly
closed, by running a thread through the under eye lids and tied
together over his crown, so as to leave a very small portion of the
eye uncovered, by which means, the kite being only able to see
upwards, makes him ascend. He has had a piece of red cloth
tied up into a ball with several horsehair nooses attached to it,
tied to his feet. The kite being let loose, and struggling upwards,
is soon caught sight of by the wild cherugh, who, seeing, as he
fancies, some good meat in the kite's possession, swoops down to
capture it. Down he comes, and strikes the kite, and is generally
caught by one of the nooses, and then the two come wheeling down
to the ground. The hawk, when caught, is subjected to a course
of training. His eyes are sewn up in the same way the kite's
were ; only they are entirely closed. In a day or two, when he
becomes a little tame, the threads are cut and he is hooded. All
this time he is never allowed to sleep, which is managed by his
being always kept on the hand, and by his trainer continually
moving his hand round, the hawk has to keep changing his

216 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
foothold to keep his balance, and so is effectually prevented going
to sleep. The trainer has a comrade who takes charge of the
bird when he wants to rest or eat his meals, and continues the
course of keeping him awake. This treatment soon tames the wild
bird, and he becomes quite gentle, and allows himself to be stroked
with the hand, and to have his hood removed and put on again
without making any resistance. He soon begins to know his
trainer's voice, and when he is fed the meal is given with a
"koo-i-i," so that very soon the hawk, hearing this cry, connects
it with the idea of food. After a few days a cord is tied to his
jesses, and another step in his training is commenced.
One man with a piece of meat stands two or three yards from
the trainer and gives the "koo-i-i." The hawk pricks up his
head, and is on the look out for his food. The hood is then re
moved and the "koo-i-i" again sounded. The hawk hearing this,
and seeing meat on the man's fist, flies towards him, and is re
warded with a tasty morsel. This is continued every day, and
the distance of the food from the trainer increased, until he is
considered far enough advanced to fly at and kill his own food.
If he is intended to fly at hubara a white fowl is selected, and
taken about fifty yards' off: the cry given, the hawk unhooded,
the fowl thrown down with a string to his legs, and the hawk re
leased, which flies straight at the fowl ; sometimes he strikes him
at once, other times only sits down by him ; if so, he is tempted
to attack the fowl by its being moved towards him. The fowl is
then killed and the hawk fed on the fowl, which he much appre
ciates. This is generally the last touch of training. He is then
taken out, and if an hubara can be found, and the trainer can
manage to get near enough to it so as to throw the hawk well on
to the hubara when it rises, and he strikes it without a long chase,
and is fed with it, he is considered a made bird, and fit for work.
I have had hawks that were fit for hawking fourteen days after
they were first caught.
The next thing is to be on the look out for the arrival of
hubara, which generally make their appearance in October. They
mostly come in flocks. I have seen as many as ten or twelve in
a flock. The hawks being ready trained, I used to send the
hawkmen out into the district to find out where. hubara were to
be seen, and after a day or two one man would return with infor-

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 217
mation favourable or otherwise. If birds had arrived, they would
mark them down, and mention the place to meet. The news was
soon given out — a party made up — horses, greyhounds, guns, and
some troopers sent off at once, we following in an hour or two.
With as little delay as possible a line is formed to scour the plains.
Horsemen were placed about a hundred yards apart, with a hawk-
man, or man with a brace of greyhounds between each horseman.
There were generally five or six men with hawks, and three or
four brace of greyhounds, four or five English officers, with five
or six native officers and troopers, so that the line was about a
mile in length. If the information was good, we generally soon
found the hubara near where they had been last seen. An hubara
rises ; the hawkman nearest it throws off his bird, and away we
go. If the hubara has a long start, he will give a long straight
flight, and you have to go as hard as legs can carry you. You
must keep your eye on the birds, and not look where your horse
is going, or you will lose sight of them, consequently numerous
spills occur. Sometimes, with only a short start, the flight is a
series of zigzags and twists and turns, and I have sat stationary
on a rising knoll, and they have circled round more than once.
At last the cherugh strikes the hubara, and they come down to
the ground together, and are at once secured by one of the party,
the cherugh taken on fist, and the hubara, after being killed, has
the liver or some delicate morsel taken from it and given to the
hawk. Unless the chase has been a very long one the trainer is
in a few minutes up to the kill, these men being very long-winded
and quick runners. I do not intend to give the idea that every
flight ends in a kill, far from it. If the hubara has a long start,
he sometimes gets clean away, and the hawk tires of following
and comes back again to his trainer. In the case of a cherugh
that has been kept through the year and moulted in confinement
this is frequently the case; the bird knows well where he has had
his food every day for months past, and he will only fly after an
hubara just as far as he pleases, and if the quarry is further ahead
than he likes, he invariably leaves the chase. This being the
case, cherughs are seldom kept for more than one season.
Whilst this chase has been going on the troopers and the rest
of the line have remained on the spot where they were left, for
the reason that where one hubara is found there are generally

218 The Highlands of India. [Section II.
more, we, therefore, after a kill or escape of quarry, return to the
line and continue our beat. Perhaps we turn out a hare, a brace
of greyhounds are let slip, and we have a gallop after them. Thus
the sport continues, until it is thought time to make for home.
I had a wild donkey (Equus onager) or ghurkhur, which was
brought to me when stationed at Asnee, near the Scinde border ;
it became very tame, and was always loose and running about my
compound or the horse lines. Whenever he saw the hawking
party going out he invariably accompanied it, and enjoyed the
clay's sport as much as anyone. When we started an hubara he
galloped with us and went through the run, and when he thought
he had had enough he would toss up his head and gallop straight
home. Poor Puttoo came to an untimely end after I left the
frontier. One cold night he laid down on a bed of hot ashes,
where the native horsekeepers had been sitting round a fire, and
got dreadfully burnt, which ended in his death.
Sometimes the hubara will alight on the ground after flying a
short distance and raise his crest and spread out his tail like a
turkey cock, thinking that he will thus frighten his pursuer. I
have often ridden up to one in this attitude, and had to crack my
whip at him several times before he would take to flight again.
One part of the country we used to hunt was much intersected
with ravines, which were almost impassable; consequently, when
an hubara flew across these he generally got away, a road down
into the ravines being difficult to find. The hawk would follow
and often kill the hubara, and having lost sight of the chase, both
hawk and hubara were lost. The hawk having killed the hubara
he helped himself to the breast, and having satisfied his appetite,
would not take wing for hours. Next day he would go in search
of food again, and finding some peaceful fowls at a village would
swoop down and kill one; the owner of the fowl would then catch
him on his quarry, and bring the hawk back into cantonment,
when a reward of one or two rupees would satisfy the villager, and
he would be on the look out again for more slaughter of his fowls.
We often lost hawks, though, in this way, and never recovered
them. Frequently we failed to find hubara, and then we would
shoot a few partridges, or some grouse, for want of nobler game.
At Hoti Murdan the Guide corps used to keep hawks trained
to hunt chinkara or ravine deer. They were trained in Affghan-

Annexe.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 219
istan, and from the time they were taken from the nest were fed
between the horns of a deer ; consequently they associated the
head of a deer with their dinner. When a deer was viewed, the
hawk and a brace of greyhounds were let loose : the hawk flew
straight at the deer and attempted to alight on his head, flapping
his wings over the deer's eyes. The poor deer, utterly dumb-
foundered, soon lost all idea of running away, while the greyhounds
come up and pull him down. The hawk and hounds perfectly
understand one another, and the hawk will wait patiently until
the deer is killed, when he gets his tit bit.
The cherugh is also trained to kill kites (Milvus govinda). A
kite is seen sailing quietly over a village; the cherugh is let loose,
and seeing the kite makes straight for him. The other, seeing it
coming, begins to mount in a series of gyrations. Up and up
they go, till the two birds appear like specks in the sky : at last
the cherugh is seen to have the best of it, and is above the kite :
he makes a swoop and strikes the kite, but not effectively, as the
kite turns over and receives the stroke on his claws. The two
birds again begin to mount ; the hawk, perhaps, draws away
from the kite, not to leave him, but to gain a superior height.
He then resumes the chase, and down again he swoops, and this
time strikes well home — the two are clutched together — and with
wings expanded and in wheeling circles they come to the ground
together. The shaheen (Falco perigrinator ) is also used for hawking
partridges and wild ducks. These birds are trained to "wait on,"
as it is called. They are let loose, and fly about all round the
trainer's head ; he, with a stick and dog, beats the bushes on his
way, and when he rises the game he gives his " holloo," and the
bird on the wing immediately sights the game and swoops down
on them. They are not always caught; the partridges seeing the
hawk coming, almost tumble down to the ground, hide in any
bush or hole at hand, and without the aid of a dog they are very
difficult to find. They also "wait on" when a man with a gun
seeing wild ducks in a stream wishes to bag some. The ducks
will not fly as long as the hawk is hovering over them, and you
get your shots at the ducks on the water ; then they rise, and the
hawk will generally secure one of the number.
The goshawk, or baz, is also another hawk much used. I had

The Highlands of India. [Section II.
one for some years, and he never went out without earning his
dinner. Sometimes two or three brace of partridge and a hare,
would be his bag. Now and then he would kill an hubara, but
being a short winged hawk, he required to be near the hubara
when let loose or he had no chance of killing. He killed hares
in good style ; he flew right at them and settled himself with one
foot round the neck and the other on the back, and would bring
the hare up in a few yards.
The sparrowhawk is also used for hawking quail. It is thrown
from the palm of the right hand. When the quarry rises, or ap
proaches sufficiently near, the hawk is thrown like a dart, with
much force, at it, and usually kills after a twenty or thirty yards
flight. It is poor sport, but good for the pot. A good sparrow
hawk will kill twenty-five quail in a morning.
[The above note on Hawking was kindly written for me by my friend
M.-Genl. George Maister.]

No. 77— HAWK STRIKING HERON.

Appendix i.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 221

APPENDIX 1.
Extract from journal of the Expedition against the Kabul Kheyl
Wuzzeeries of the "Kurrum Field Force," under Brigadier-
General Sir Neville Chamberlain, 1859-60.
12th Dec. — Joined the K.F.P. as a volunteer.
15th „ Marched to Raisan, seventeen miles; stony hills and
narrow.
16th „ Marched to Pogue, vid Hangu, sixteen miles ; nar
row defiles in places.*
17th Dec. — Marched to Storazaie, eleven miles ; enemy firing
into camp.
18th ,, Marched to Gunderawa, ten miles ; fine open valleys
between hills.
19th „ Marched to Tulle, on the river Kurrum; a very stony,
difficult road for guns ; crossed the Kurrum into
Dost Mahomed's territory.
20th „ Enemy on hills, three koss in front.
21st „ Halted ; went fishing in the Kurrum, caught several
mahaseer.
* It was here that my gallant friend W. O  ,* also a volunteer, rode
into camp with my horses. How well I recollect his arrival in camp !
He had, knowing my eagerness to go on this service, obtained my leave
from Sir Sydney Cotton, then commanding at Peshawer. He, himself,
had no baggage whatever for this little campaign beyond the clothes he
stood in, but those clothes comprised about five coats, and in each coat
five pockets ; each pocket containing some useful item of war. I see him
now handing me my leave from one, my watch (which had been left at
a watchmaker's) from another; and, finally, pulling out a bag of one
hundred and fifty rupees from one of his boots! "There, old fellow!
now go in and win ! " said W. O. Never since have I forgotten his friendly
comradeship on that occasion. Besides his native merit as a soldier, W.
O. had been trained in the school of old Charley Napier, whose "towel
and bit of soap, " as the ideal of a soldier's kit, has passed into a proverb.
I myself, since those days have survived to serve in a military station in
England where pockets are tabooed, and regarded as the ne plus ultra of
slovenliness; I have actually not had the means of taking money in
pocket to my own orderly room ! Fancy, also, a sergeant of artillery not
being allowed pockets even in "marching order" in which to carry a
"squad book !" Such is but dandy soldiering.
* Now General William Olpherts, C.B., V.O.

The Highlands of India. [Section II.
22nd Dec. — Marched five miles into the mountains, and encamped
in a basin near Gunderawa ; skirmish with enemy,
two guides killed.
23rd „ Marched back into the valley of the Kurrum, and
down the river eight miles ; a very difficult, rough
march. Encamped at "Shewa," the enemy's chief
village : destroyed it. General and infantry still
out. In command of No. 1 P.P. Battery, Captain
S. being on general's staff.
24th „ General's force returned from mountains, driving in
five thousand head of sheep and a few cattle.
Heavy rain. Christmas eve ; six sheep distributed
to every company. Scene of butchery in camp.
25th „ Grand Christmas dinner in artillery camp.
26th „ Went fishing. Joined a reconnoitring party, under
Chamberlain, towards Jooni or Kafir-K6t. Burned
Jungi Shah's village. Returned to camp by sunset.
28th „ Parties out skirmishing with Wuzzeeries. Six or
eight killed. Three hundred cattle taken.
29th „ General's force marched to " Speen Wan." Rest of
camp marched to Billund Kheyl.
From 30th December, 1859, to 8th January, 1860, in the valley
of the Kurrum.
On 8th January, marched to Thul : general's force joined in on
march. Then marched back vid Gunderawa, Stor-
azaie, Pogue, and Kohat, where the force broke up
on ] 5th January, 1860.
APPENDIX 2.
Extract from journal of the " Expedition to Derbund,''' against
the Sitana fanatics, and in aid of the Khan of Umb.
9th October, 1863, — marched from Rawulpindi in command of
F. 19, R.A. (with field force H.M. 51st Regiment, and 13th
Bengal Cavalry and 3rd Sikhs joined at Derbund.) A somewhat
difficult march over the hills of Hazara vid Tupleh, Torbela, etc.
On the watershed the horses came almost to a standstill, but no
casualties. Enemy firing at long ranges across river. Had to

Appendix 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.
put the guns in boats the last three miles, sending the teams over
the rocks. Arrived at Derbund on 17th.
19th — Rode six miles up the river : saluted with two shots by
the Hussanzaies. Nearly hit.*
From 20th October to the end of the year, remained at Der
bund. Occasionally, chiefly on Fridays, threatened by the enemy;
who, however, were mostly drawn off across the river to attack
General Chamberlain's force, fighting so hard in the Umbeyla
pass. We were, as the crow flies, actually nearer Mulkah — the

* In explanation of this very curt extract, I may say that we — a party
of six — were standing on a rock jutting into the Indus, and gazing into
the dark and mysterious gorge of the river, where it emerges from the
Dardo Mountains, when we observed a few Hussanzaies strolling down
to the other bank of the river, here about eighty yards across. Suddenly
Colonel (now Sir E.) Bright asked: "Cox! are those natives armed?"
"No," said Cox. "I have had my eye on them; they are not." It
afterwards transpired, however, that they were armed, and had their
matchlocks concealed behind their backs, and as soon as the last of the
party was mounted and moving off up the rocky path on our bank, they
commenced fire. I had been sketching, and happened to be late to mount.
My orderly sowar being the very last. I that day rode a white Arab (old
'Lottery'), and whether his colour made him a target I cannot say, but
of the three bullets fired, two struck the side of the bank in the angle
formed by my own and my horse's back. No doubt the shots were well
aimed, but we were moving on at the time, and so escaped !
I may as well complete this little episode, the denouement of which,
however, having to ride across to Hurripore and back next day on duty,
I missed. It seems that Colonel Cox — our political agent in camp — in
consequence of the above conduct on the part of a neutral tribe, called
on them to declare themselves. The riding party of the preceding day
— myself excepted — rode out to high ground overlooking the site of
yesterday's adventure, when a curious sight was presented. Cox's letter
was produced before a large circle of the tribes collected on the plateau
opposite. Each chief on arriving sticking up his spear and taking up
his position with his followers in the circle. The letter was read and
debated on, and resulted in war being declared against us. Even then
our "political" would not let us take the initiative. We could easily have
destroyed, in half an hour's shelling, all the villages on the plateau across
the river, but we were restrained by stringent orders, much to our sub
sequent regret, as this mean tribe of Pathans, to whom the safe custody
of the fanatics' wives and families had been confided by the enemy whilst
the fight was going on below, when fortune went against the unfortunate
fanatics, looted every pice and every poor bit of trinket from the hapless
ones, and sent them up the river in slavery amongst the wild independent
tribes living along the upper Indus toward Gilgit.

The Highlands of India. [Section II.
objective of the expedition — than the force fighting so desperately
to get to it, but the rolling Indus intervened. Many wild rides
and scrambles about the hills, even as far as the " Black Moun
tain," had I during this interval ; and I took the opportunity of
teaching my battery the " art of war," and they wanted nothing
but the opportunity of distinction. Every man of the battery could
ride, and ride well. I used to work them as a troop of cavalry,
instead of the humdrum riding drill, for which, indeed, there was
no facility; I used to lead them on pleasant rides about the country,
often along the sandy reaches of the great river, and put the
battery through imaginary scenes of service, and try to teach
them warfare. I see my journal is full of such positions and
reconnoitrings. During Christmas we had some glorious duck shooting.
On 15th December heard heavy firing across river, and next
day heard Chamberlain's force had taken Lalbundi.
On 26th the 51st were relieved by the 93rd Highlanders, at
whose social mess I saw the old year out. On the 6th January
I rode out towards Torbela, and saw the destruction of the Sitana
villages by Wilde's column, which had debouched from the Jadoon
hills. On 19th commenced return march to Rawulpindi, where
arrived 28th January, 1864.
APPENDIX 3.— COINS (page 205).
According to Abbott — and I may corroborate it from personal
observation — many coins of Agothl, Agothkla (Agathocles), are
found, as well as of Kadphises, these being of a Greek type.
Figures of kings riding astride on the back of an elephant are
found, some armed with a net or spear in rest, or with the ankoh
or trident. In regard to the riders of the elephants, Abbott
suggests that the tradition of a race of giants may have some
foundation in fact; as this coin is common in Hazara and trans-
Indus of the age coeval with Russaloo, the Hero of the ancient
Punjaub, whom the bards delight to honour as the champion of
old. He was coeval with the introduction of Boodhism into the
Punjaub, and Abbott suggests that his wars with the giants
(Rakus) may have typified the religious struggle between the
Hindoo and Scytho-Oreek races.

Appendix 3.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 225
The coins of Kadphises are generally found in topes, and are
rather of Greek than Asiatic type — rather Persian than Tartar —
belong to the religion of Zertoosht (Zoroaster) rather than
Boodha. Inscriptions in Greek of Hercules, Neptune, Europa
(bull), Ceres (cornucopia), Helios, etc. The coins of Kadphises
are of the first Scytho-Greek type, and point to Fire worship.
The image is often shown with flames issuing from the helmet
or shoulders : Toork or Balkh — the Land of Zoroaster — is often
quoted. Figures, sometimes clubbed like Hercules, sometimes
with ram's horns like Anubis, Annun RA or Aum Helios, and
of a purely Greek type are also found.*
A few additional notes bearing on the History of the Sind-
Saugor and Yecha Doabs — chiefly extracted from Abbott's
masterly treatise on the Legends of the Punjaub — may here,
perhaps, prove of interest to readers interested in the subject, as
follows: —
The "Jusrut" family succeeded the Pandaus in the Punjaub.
Sealkote founded by Salahya or Salivahana, father of Russaloo.
He was of the Pooroowar family of Chandrabun Rajpoots.
The following is the fabled genealogy of Russaloo.
Brahm to Salabyn (Salivahana) two thousand years —
(1) Salabyn, a.d., 81 ; (2) Russaloo, 171, son; (3) Hode,
216, son; and twenty-two kings are named down to Mahmood
(of Ghuzni), a descendant of the Pooroowar dynasty of Chandra-
bun Rajpoots, who reigned at Sealkote.
Russaloo's enemy, the "Rakus" (Rackshas Sanskrit) — Tera,
and his brethren — had their haunt at Gundghur or Alooli, in
Hazara, and incurred the vengeance of Russaloo by their dep
redations at Lahore, then called Oodinagri. They haunted the
forest west of Lahore, and daily demanded a human victim, and
Russaloo's battle with the monsters to avenge the cruel sacrifice
is the favourite theme of the Punjaub bards.
The Rakus is said, also, to have haunted the Bullar tope, and
Raja Srikup, Russaloo's other enemy, the Mankyola tope, and
another near Pukli. A religious or ethnical strife is probably
symbolized. * The above Note chiefly taken from Abbott's Legends of the Punjaub.

The Highlands of India. [Section II.
Russaloo dwelt at Mount Moorut, and thence daily rode to
Dhumtore, in Hazara, to hunt, a distance of eighty miles, on his
steed Bhori Rakhi. His strength is ascribed to his continence
and abstention from hair cutting. He was a Jutt Raju — a
quasi Nazarite.
Kauf, the prison of the genii. There, in caverns, secured by
the seal of Solomon, they await the day of judgment.
Mungla is a castle on a cliff overhanging the Jhelum, sacred
to Mars. It looks down on the site of Alexander's victory over
Porus. Dhangulie, on the Jhelum, above Mungla — a long sandstone
rock penmsulated by deep ravines — is the site of the palace of
Sooltan Sahrung, last of the Gakhar Sooltans, previous to the
division of their principality. After him the Gakhar principality
was divided, and again subdivided, until, its strength sapped by
these subdivisions, it was finally conquered by the Sikhs under
Rajah Golaub Sing and Sirdar Hurrie Sing. Its few represent
atives — about twelve in number — were rescued from the prisons
of Maharajah Golaub Sing, and pensioned.
Margulla is a slight pass at the tail of the limestone ridge west
of Rawulpindi.
The Hurroh, a small river, rises in the Dhoond country, and
joins the Indus below Attock.
Potowar is the table-land between the Indus and Jhelum, en
closed by the mountains of Hazara, and south by the Salt Range.
The highest crest of Gundgurh — Pirthan — is 4,500 above sea.
Mount Bhaingra, an isolated limestone summit in Hazara,
8000 feet.
The Indus called "Abu-Sin;" "Father Sinde," by the border
ers ; but the Hindoos style him " Sinde Rama," — Queen Sinde.
\ Pehoon, slain on an island ot the Indus.
The Rachasses I Chindia falls into the Sutlej and is lost.
J Pagrputt, enclosed in rock, is made to appear
by a charm obtained by Russaloo from Beera, the sister of the
four giants — Chindia, Pehoon, Pagrputt, and Tera. This last is
the survivor — his hand, however, chopped off — who is fabled to
be imprisoned in the caverns of Gundgurh, and to bellow each
time he retreats from the sight of Russaloo's bow hanging at its
entrance.

Appendix 4.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 227
APPENDIX 4.
Note on the Gakhars.
The Gakhars are supposed by Abbott to be descendants of
Indo or Scytho Greeks. They were princes of " Potowar," which
is the table-land between the Indus and the Jhelum ; bounded
north by the mountains of Upper Hazara, and south by the salt
range ; in fact, nearly corresponding with the Sind-Saugor Doab.
They trace back to King Gohr, or his son Kyde (a.d. 655-70),
King of Kyan, in Persia, who — being driven from his kingdom
— conquered Thibet, and "grafted Islam upon the dwellings of
owls, making a paradise for houris in every place of fear among
the mountains of Devs and Peris." The eleventh or twelfth
descendant — Sooltan Khan or his son Kaub (a.d. 865-80) —
reduced Cashmere, but Thibet was wrested from him by the
Chinese : he married a beauty of the Chak tribe.
The ancient kingdom — except Cashmere — was lost in the time
of the twenty-fourth Sooltan Roostum (1138), who was murdered
in Kabul. Hazara and the Sind-Saugor Doab alone retained.
Gakhar Shah, the twenty-ninth king (1243), was buried at Kabul,
which, however, was then lost by the Gakhars. The thirtieth
king — Baz Ali or Bijli Khan (1264) conquered Dhoond and
Pakhli, and Sutli mountains, and was the first prince who dwelt at
Dhangulie for security. Sahrung, forty-third prince (1537), dwelt
at Dhangulie, where he sheltered the fugitive Emperor Humaioon,
but was slain by Shere Shah in sight of his own palace, and his
skin was then stuffed with chaff and exposed on the road side as
a terror to the Gakhars.
Between 1553 and 1574 the Gakhar territory was split into
two principalities — Pharwala and Dhangulie — between Laskuri,
son of Adam Khan, and Kummial Khan, son of Sahrung.
In 1763 Shah Khan, the Gakhar chief, was imprisoned by
Golaub Sing : he died in prison, and his son, Rajah Hyatoola
Khan— the fifty-sixth Gakhar King — was released from Jummoo
prison by British interference, and holds a small jaghir in
Hazara. This was the chief, if I mistake not, that I met at
Noorpore near Rawulpindi, as long ago as the year 1849.
Q2

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

SECTION III.-(PART 2).
The Highlands of the Rechna, Bdri, and Jullunder
Doabs, including Kishtewar, Boodrawdr, Barma-
wdr, Chumba, the Kangra Valley, and the group of
associated Hill Principalities — [page 56, Vol. I.,
"Highlands of India"] — Kulu, Lahoul, Zanskar,
Spiti, and the Valley of the Sutlej.
CHAPTER 1.
KISHTEWAR — the "land of
timber-trees," the first district
mentioned above — has been al
ready alluded to in Section I.,
Chapter 1 0 of the present volume.
The author, after grievous wan
derings in Lahoul, Zanskar, and
the valley of the Chandrabhaga,
during which he was ill and
more than half starved, at length
debouched from the higher
mountains into a comparatively civi
lized tract of country. On reaching-
Chilergarh, an old Sikh outpost about
three marches from Kishtewar, I halted, but
had there also failed to obtain supplies, and
No. 78— Study rtr
of a Deodar, arrived at Kishtewar half starved. Marching
through the forests of the Chandrabhaga, I at last, how
ever, reached the fertile river plateau on which stands the
town of Kishtewar, surrounded by fertile fields, and hold
ing ample resources. Finding supplies, I halted to recruit
my strength and view the neighbourhood, previous to
crossing the Chenab into Cashmere by the Meribul pass,
as recorded in Chapter 10, Section I.

Chapter i.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 229
Little, however, need be said of the Kishtewar district,
which partakes of the Alpine character of the Himalayas
generally; and I find my notes on it very slight. Much
timber is cut in the forests along the Chenab, and floated
down to the plains of the Punjaub; thus it keeps up its
ancient fame as "Kastawdr" = "abounding in timber."
The traveller who, from this point progresses down the
river, which takes a bend at Kishtewar to the south-west,
soon arrives at Doda, a considerable fort on the right
bank of the river, whence a swing bridge leads into the
marches of Boodrawar. From the river a road leads up

It;,, flBHf4U^

at .^^^^^^tf  &
m ' ~ Wo.aa-VALLEY OF THE CHANDRABHAGA, PANGI.

The Highlands of India. [Section III.
the hills to the fort of Boodrawar, a fertile spot embow
ered in fruit trees. Should he progress further down
stream, he skirts on his right the lovely region of Peris-
than (fairyland), and on his left catches a peep into
the Butot valley; thence down stream soon takes him to
Aknoor, a large fort on the old imperial road to Lahore,
on which point the author has several times debouched
on his way to and from Cashmere.*
From Boodrawar a difficult path leads across the Pudru-
Dhar pass, over densely wooded mountains, and through
wild gorges and the remarkable clefts of the Saah river to
Chumba, a track diverging also to Bisooli on the river
Ravi. Long wooded mountain spurs, radiating from the
Himalayan axis, impinge on this road, and render
travelling difficult: a lower track passes along the Butot
valley, where the country opens out into fine broad river
terraces, forming fertile plateaux. This region, as it
opens out with wide fields along the river Seul, is called
the "Garden of Chumba."
Many pheasants, chiefly moonal, were shot in the hills
hereabouts, by the author's people whom, on one oc
casion, he left behind in these mountains; but his own
travels along these regions have been very limited: he has,
however, more than once visited Jummoo, the maharajah
of Cashmere's sub- Alpine capitol, already mentioned.
In the days I write of the orders of government were
very strict for travellers in this particular section of
Cashmere territory: it was believed that the maharajah
was touchy on the point, and British officers were forbid
den to linger, or even to pass along this particular track.
On one occasion only did the author partially overcome
* The Chenab ( Assesines) is a classical stream ; and, like the Jhelum,
has witnessed many wars. Sealkot, Wuzzeerabad, Goojerat, Chunniot,
and Mooltan, being all on or adjacent to its banks.

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 231
the restriction. Old Golaub Sing was currently re
ported to have several depots of treasure at Rihursi and
elsewhere along that line: his hiding tendency in that
way had, in the time of the Sikhs, earned for him the
appellation of the "Sona-ki-Ktikoor" (the golden hen)
from his enemies, who, on one occasion, caught and
squeezed the astute old gentleman till he disgorged
several of his golden eggs. He is represented as, under
this pressure, leading his captors about these hills from
one little nest to another, till they at length released
him, glad to escape with his life.
The "Banihal" is the only pass across the Pinjal lead
ing into the Cashmere valley not actually traversed by
the author: who, however, has been in its close vicinity
on both sides of the Pinjal; nevertheless, he will now pass
on into regions where he is really more at home, and
which, to some extent, have been already described in the
"Highlands of India." Chumba, with its temples, and
Chogan (polo) ground has been already alluded to; Bar
mawar, the ancient seat of the raj, is higher up, on the
Ravi, which valley contains magnificent Alpine scenery.
I am permitted to supplement my own experiences by
an extract from the vivid description of the scenery as
depicted by a brother — the author of the "Eastern
Hunters" — in whose company I visited the mountains of
the Dhaola Dhar, but who had the further opportunity —
denied to me — of crossing the Jot or Kiarsi pass from
Dharmsala, into Barmawar, where he killed some game
of various kinds — goorul, burrul, and bear.
We had ascended to some caves behind Rilloo — perhaps
12000 feet in elevation — and there dwelt two or three
days, previous to our separation; he to cross the Jot into
Barmawar, I to return to military quarters at Hooshi-
apore, where he afterwards rejoined me a month later.

The Highlands of India. [Section III.
I am privileged to avail myself of his journal, which is
before me. It abounds in picturesque sketches, both in
pen and pencil, of the sublime scenery of those lofty
valleys. I may also, perhaps, be able to reproduce a
sketch or two of my own, made as long ago as the year
1848, when I first visited those mountains, and when the
forests which clothed their sides were well nigh untrod
den by Europeans. It was in the year 1853 that my
brother and I visited the district. I recollect we obtained
several specimens of moonal (Impeyan pheasant) behind
Dharmsala, in fact we lived on them in our cave. It was
July, and we found the cock birds — like graceless grass-
widowers — packed and running about the grassy hill
slopes below the snow, apparently chasing beetles, whilst
their spouses were doing the domestic, and sitting on their
nests in the deep forests. Of course we did not disturb
them, but felt ourselves justified under the circumstances,
in hunting the truant mates. If I recollect rightly, my
brother tackled them with a pea rifle, whilst I took the
flying shots as they went off down the "kudd."
"I had been staying at Hooshiapore, and thence paid a visit to
the pretty small hill station of Dharmsala, near Kangra. This
was my starting point for the mountain trip ; and on the 28th
July I crossed the pass with the object of penetrating the rarely
visited Burmaor district, whence spring the sources of the Ravee,
there called Rewa.
After staying in a cave for two or three days at the foot of the
pass, but high above the region of trees, detained there by the
incessant rain, I took a favourable opportunity and made good
the ascent. I had with me, perhaps, about a dozen mountain
men belonging to a tribe of hill Rajpoots, called Guddees, for of
course, everything I had was obliged to be carried by coolies, the
path being utterly impracticable for any beast of burden. A
very active, good looking, and interesting race they are in general
and the women are very pretty, with, oh 1 such legs and ankles !

Chapter 1.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.
These are liberally displayed by the dress worn by both sexes — a
sort of long loose tunic of woollen manufacture, gathered in at the
waist, and descending to the knee or lower, at the option of the
wearer. It is allowed to hang over the waist-girdle in baggy
folds, in which they carry various marching necessaries. But if
deemed desirable, these folds can be dispensed with, and the gar
ment elongated so as to cover more of the legs. Free and facile
play of the limbs is, however, necessary in mountain climbing.
The men are jolly, lively fellows enough, but somewhat dirty, and
of no account as shikaries. More than the body garment, even
the head dress is distinguished for its peculiarity of shape, being
also made of some woollen stuff, which is so arranged as to form
a peak behind, such as I have never seen elsewhere. They — the
men, I mean — wear their hair, too, in three or four uncut locks
on each side, and pride themselves on the length of these tresses,
just as English ladies would do.
I had a most difficult journey altogether, for the snow in the
clefts of the mountains, which formed the usual road, was in
many parts broken up, and we were obliged to find our way by
the sides of the ravines, very often with but a bare footing, step
after step being made with the greatest caution. In several in
stances we had to ascend the bare face of the sloping rock, in
some parts precipitous. Sometimes a pine-stem, felled on the
brink, was the only bridge over a roaring torrent ; at other places
a couple of long poles would be laid across, parallel to each other,
and on these loose slabs of wood placed crossways, with many and
extensive intervals, through which the water might be seen foam
ing and flashing far below. Over the Ravee itself, in what I may,
for distinction's sake, call the more civilized portion of the
valley, rope bridges were to be found.
I soon found it was impossible to get on with my shoes, so I
procured a pair of foot coverings made of twisted goat's hair, the
roughness of which, when bound on, gave a fine biting grip, and
at the same time allowed easy play to the foot. The men used
a sort of sandal formed of twisted straw, which they constructed
in a few minutes, and threw away when worn out and the day's
journey over,
I had with me a small rowtie, though I lived a good deal in
caves in the upper parts of the mountains, and the rest of my kit

234 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
was reduced to the most extreme limits; — a pewter mug, cup and
saucer, two or three plates, and a knife, fork, and spoon may seem
to some an unnecessarily limited supply of table necessaries, but
roughing it was essential on that trip, and I have always found
that the less you have the less you want.
I wish I could give you an idea of the glorious scenery of that
pass. All the lower slopes of the mountains — with a southern
exposure towards Dharmsala — were either bare spurs of the most
vivid green, varied with the colours of the rocks, or clothed with
magnificent forests of oak and rhododendron. Those, again, to
the north were clad in the more sombre garments of pine, cedar,
and fir. Above the region of trees, where the widowed mountain
was desolate and grand, till it culminated in peaks, precipices,
and glaciers, the great seams and clefts of the range were mostly
filled with snow, hiding the torrents which, somewhat lower, broke
away and flashed roaring down the mountain. These gorges,
however, were but mere intersections of the great upland slopes,
which were strewn with huge boulders of granite — the debris from
the peaks and precipices above — among which the most beautiful
flowers, ferns, lichens, and grasses, in infinite variety, and includ
ing many much prized in England, gemmed the rich verdure, and
mingled with masses of bracken and wild rhubarb, ' wasting their
sweetness on the desert air.' Above all, the clouds beat up
against the peaks, and were held there in check by the snow. It
is only those who have seen such who can fully appreciate the
ruggedness, the desolate, secluded wildness, and grandeur of the
lone mountain scenery, unstained, uncontaminated by the feeble
efforts of man ; and showing, in all its vast and solitary glory,
the all-powerful impress of the hand of Nature in her sternest
mood. No sound to break the silence, save the dull murmur of
some distant cascade, the wild cry of the moonal, some call from
forests below, or the occasional crash of a fallen mass of rock.
Such is the great spur of the Himalayas which separates the
Burmaor valley from the Punjaub. In front, and far beyond,
towers in unsullied grandeur, to the height of five and twenty
thousand feet, the lofty cone of " Manim'ais," and other peaks of
the range of perpetual snow, the accumulations of a thousand
centuries. Away, behind, lie the lower hills of the Kohisthan,
connecting the mountains with the great Punjaub plain, the latter
nearly hidden from view in the hazy mist of heat and distance.

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.
Dwarfed into insignificance, and from that height undiscernible
as elevations of considerable altitude, these hills are, themselves,
full of a soft and gentle beauty, but one naturally wanting in the
sublimity of the loftier Himaleh, or, to call the range by its more
ancient and classical name, — Emodus or Himodhi, the latter
meaning the receptacle of snow."
I will now refer to previous notes on the subject, and
recount my own earlier experiences of these mountains.
I record them as they occur in point of time.
Whilst in garrison at Lahore — during our early occu
pation of the Sikh capitol, 1847-8 — the author, with a
brother officer, having obtained a month's leave "between
musters," as it was then termed, rode off from the artillery
mess at Anar-kullie towards Umritsur, on the Jullunder
road, after "tiffin" on the 1st April, 1847. We had two
sowars (Sikhs) as escort, who, however, being natives of
the western doabs of the Punjaub, were of little use as
guides. The road between Lahore and Umritsur was, in
those days, a mere sandy track from village to village.
However, we got over near half of our ride of thirty-three
miles tolerably well; then, as evening closed in, a heavy
thunder storm, which had been threatening, burst upon
us in full fury, and it was with difficulty we found our
third relay of horses. Having, however, mounted to
complete our journey, we were overtaken by night,
which set in pitch dark. A renewal of the thunder storm,
which laid the country under water, occurred. We lost
our way, and our ride degenerated into a scramble across
muddy fields from village to village. Well do I recall
the stalwart figure of my companion, who led the van in
full war paint — armed, in fact, cap-a-pied — the lightning
seeming almost to flash on his steel scabbard, and how
dreadfully annoyed he was at my laughter and endeav
ours to keep up our spirits amidst the drenching rain !

The Highlands of India. [Section III.
We were out half the night, but at length found ourselves
suddenly arrived on the counterscarp or glacis of the deep
ditch which surrounds the fortress of Govindghur; round
this we circulated till we arrived at the guard-house at
the gate of the fort, which was held by Sikh soldiers.
These good fellows — so lately our enemies — cleared a
room for us, cooked us a fowl, and generally enacted the
role of welcome to the strangers.
Next day we visited the shrine and tank of the golden
temple of Umritsur, where the Sikh holy book — the
Granth — is kept, and here we nearly came into collision
with some fanatical "Akalie" (immortal), desperadoes
whom my companion failed to conciliate by refusing to
remove his long riding boots, as "Feringhees" were then
expected to do. However, by bestowing a handsome
"backsheesh" on the shrine, they were appeased.
After this, having three horses each, we rode across the
J ullunder Doab to Hooshiapore, at that time devoid of
troops, except that the afterwards distinguished W.
0  , then a lieutenant of artillery, was there located,
engaged in raising a company of Sikh artillery for the
service of the Lahore durbar. He entertained us hospit
ably in his camp, pitched amidst the trees of a shady
mangoe tope. Here we rested two days, and examined
the locality. At this time the zenana of Sheikh Emam-
oo-deen, the rebellious Governor of Cashmere, was estab
lished here, and as it was rumoured to contain some of
the chiefest beauties of India, it was an object of curiosity
to us youngsters. The ladies were, of course, "purdah
nisheen" — secluded behind the curtain — but we did suc
ceed in catching more than passing views of several of
the beauties of the establishment.
From Hooshiapore we rode along the skirt of the
mountains as far as Rooper, at which point the river

Chapter i.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 237
Sutlej debouches from _,
the mountains of
Kahloor. Here we
entered the hills,
and proceeding by
Nalyghur and Mal-
oun, arrived at Simla No. So-Naiyghu7
in due course.
As this was my first experience of the Himalaya
mountains let me try to recall the fresh impressions then
experienced! How well I remember the exuberance of
our spirits at the change of temperature as we ascended
from the arid plains of the Punjaub to the temperate
zone of mountain breezes amidst groves of oak and pine.
Through these we passed, till we reached the rhododen
dron woods — then in full flower — which herald the ap
proach to Simla — Queen of Indian Watering-places. The
flush of sunset was on the gorgeous crimson blossoms
as we rode into the station; — the wild flowers of spring
studded the banks along the road; — rivulets of pure
spring water at intervals gushed along the wayside from
mossy fountains and fern-shaded pools, sometimes built
up into small stone reservoirs — a rural shrine here and
there appears, with, perhaps, a mountain maid drawing
water or, may be, a mountain mother holding her infant's
head under the cold stream in the belief that such is re
storative and strengthening; — an occasional Sikh chief,
with a small following and equipage, encountered as we
emerged from the woods on to the high road, returning
from paying his respects at the levee of the Governor
General at Simla; jolly looking fellows these, many of
them of huge stature, and in no wise downcast at their
late defeat on the Sutlej! with these my companion,
being a fine linguist, would converse in their own dialect,

238 The Highlands of India. [Section III-
in which he was the first officer who passed. Such were
a few of the roadside pictures which greeted us along
the road. At last Simla, at that time the gay resort of
grass widows and idlers of the plains! Several writers
have endeavoured to put before the public an idea of
the life of the Simla of those days; but for my part I
believe, generally, they give fallacious ideas, and a false
picture of Anglo-Indian society. Loose morals and a
disregard of the sanctity of the marriage knot, were the
key note of many such writers, who touched on Indian
society sketches; but I hold they were mostly libellous
and misleading. There were many charming households
and families possessing every domestic virtue and accom
plishment to be found in the Simla of those days; and I,
for one, deprecate the false impressions thus conveyed of
the social life of our countrymen and countrywomen in
the East.
After a short sojourn, I had to leave Simla on my
return to Lahore, and on my ride down was fortunate in
the companionship of my friend and schoolfellow "Hod-
son," who was then semi-officially employed under Sir
Henry Lawrence (Resident of Lahore). This was, of
course, years before he achieved the celebrity he after
wards gained at Delhi and elsewhere. In those days
Hodson used to be my guest at the artillery mess at
Lahore every Wednesday — a standing invitation! but he
was, at that time, engaged in building the first rough
school-room for the Lawrence Asylum on the hillside at
Kussowlie, which has formed the nucleus of the now
extensive buildings there. Mrs. (Lady G.) Lawrence had
already taken charge of a flock of young children — the
first batch ever collected (by myself!) for the asylum:
they had just arrived from Lahore.
Well do I recollect, on my arrival at Kussowlie on this

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 239
occasion, finding that estimable lady tending her little
flock in one of the small thatched native hospital sheds
so as to set the thing going, she herself, an able co
efficient of her excellent brother-in-law, superintending
all the active duties of matron for sweet charity's sake.
The bright example of one such woman is sufficient to
refute the calumnies formerly sought to be hurled at
our dear countrywomen in India, alluded to above!
That great charitable institution was inaugurated, in
the face of much opposition, by that noble philanthropist,
Sir Henry Lawrence, and was thus, through the personal
exertions of a few friends, set on foot.
I remained a day or two at Kussowlie in order hum
bly to aid the good work, by the reception of good old
Sergeant O'Leary, who had conducted along the journey
the children I had myself seen started from Lahore.
During this time I lodged at the dak (travellers') bunga
low at Kussowlie, a favourite resting-place of mine, and
one at which — during my subsequent occasional visits to
Simla — I afterwards often made a point of stopping.
Perched on a flowery slope of a spur of the first range,
amidst the pine trees, it always seemed to me to offer a
delightful premier pas to the traveller from the plains,
and many a pleasant hour has the author enjoyed under
its "soughing" fir-trees on his journeys to and from
Himalayan retreats.
Soon afterwards, as I had to be back by "muster" on
the first of May, I embarked on Palki, and committing
myself to that oriental jog-trot, a dawk trip, journeyed
down by regular night stages to my quarters at Lahore,
where I resumed my duties as Adjutant of Artillery at
that large station.
Again, after an interval of a year — in April, 1848 — I
started, one of a party of four, on leave "between mus-

240

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

ters" — for a trip to Kangra and the Kohisthan of the
Jullunder Doab. Travelling vid Umritsur, where we
lodged in one of the kiosks in the beautiful gardens,
we arrived late in the afternoon of the second day at
Buttala; here we lodged in the grand sporting palace
of the late Maharajah Sher Sing. Before sunset we
accidently observed that there were wild ducks on the
extensive pond or tank close to the palace; so getting
out our guns we endeavoured to circumvent them; two
of us embarked on the boat, and each of the other two
taking up a position on each side of the large tank, whose
side was, perhaps, three hundred yards across, we suc
ceeded, before dark, in bagging no less than sixteen ducks!
the birds, had probably, not been disturbed for a long
time, and declined to leave the water, and when put up,
after wheeling overhead, would again plunge on to a far
corner of the extensive surface before finally departing for
safer waters.
Next day we pushed on to Kanwan, an extensive
swamp, at one place enlarging into a lake containing an
island on which
the same sport
ing maharajah
had another
shootingbox. On
the shores of this
water we pitched
camp, and occu
pied the next two
days in exploring and shooting on this extraordinary and
interesting creek of the Beas river as it really is.
In those days it could not have been much less than
twelve miles in length, and contained extensive beds of
reeds and flags extending inland on the western bank for

No. 81— Kamwan, on the river Beas.

Chapter i.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 2\1
miles, amidst which, lanes were cut. One could just sit
in the stern sheets of one of the small canoes or "dug
outs" there available, whilst the boatman who propelled
it had also just space to use his paddle, and bring you up
to the game. Warily creeping along under cover of the
sedges, he would now and then accelerate his pace as he
neared the game, and, finally, putting on a spurt, would
cause the boat to dart out from under cover right into
the midst of a vast flock of ducks, teal, etc., when it is no
figure of speech to say that the flock rising would darken
the air. I have seen an appreciable shadow cast on the
water, as from a passing cloud, by the enormous crowd
of wild fowl rising from this wonderful fen. Snipe were
also abundant, and some of our party went after them.
Many neel-ghyie (blue cattle) also were roaming about,
and we came quite close to them. I even mistook the
first I saw for a donkey feeding, but being strictly pre
served — and a notice to that effect having been put into
our hands by the native authorities on our arrival — we
were debarred shooting any. I rather think they are
considered as "cows," and participate in the sacred char
acter of cattle, in which the Sikh, following the Hindoo,
concurs, contrary to the real tenets of his former religion.
I say former, because the Sikh religion, as enunciated by
Nanuk, the first Giiroo (or highpriest) — who was, in fact,
born at Talwandi on this very river, the Beas (or Hy-
phasis), about 1469 — was a pure Deism. The "unity of
God," and the "equality of man," being its two funda
mental dogmas: but from want of spiritual guidance, the
Sikhs have, of late years, relapsed towards the idolatry of
the Hindoos, and have adopted many of their ceremonial
customs.* We might have got any amount of game at this point;
* See page 89.

242 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
whence, however, after two pleasant days, we departed
towards the hills, whose outlines loomed very temptingly
in the near distance. We rode on across the plains of
Deenanugger, at that time a bare jungly plain, dotted,
however, with villages surrounded by a few cactus hedges
and other quickset fences, to Pathankote, a curious old
ruined fort built by Shah Jehan to command the high
road to Lahore, and the ferry over the Beas between
Jummoo and Kangra — the Nagakot of old times. Here
were said to abide large serpents or pythons, amidst the
fast decaying ruins. Interesting, however, as are these
localities, we pushed on vid Rilloo, to Kangra, where we
pitched camp, making it the head-quarters of our hill
ramblings for, perhaps, a fortnight.
We were hospitably entertained by the 72nd Regiment
Native Infantry and other troops there in garrison, and
thoroughly enjoyed our new experience of these lovely
hills. Dharmsala was then simply a clearing in the oak
forest for the one house of the Commissioner, Mr. John
(afterwards Lord) Lawrence. Hence we roamed along
the lower wooded hills, towards Rilloo, Kotilah, etc., and
skirting the great Dhaola Dhar range, enjoyed sundry
hunts and beats after game. I do not recollect, however,
that we obtained much at this time, but we saw a few
wild pigs and kakur deer, one of which I remember
actually brushed me as I sat motionless one sultry after
noon on the look out on a wooded spur near Rilloo.
Years afterwards (1870) I was walking one evening,
about sunset, amidst the ruins of K6tilah, a small fort of
the most picturesque character, in that tangle of moun
tain, near Noorpore, when I was accosted by a 'strange
figure, who announced himself as the custodian or tute
lary bard of the place.
Bard — Salaam, Sahib ! It is not safe for Feringhees to

Chapter l.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 243
be in these ruins after sunset: they are full of Jadoo
(magic). Traveller — I also am acquainted with magic.
Bard — Only twice-born Brahmins and Surajbuns Raj
poots, like my rajah, are safe here !
Traveller — Indeed; listen Vibhu! I have only been
born once, but my ancestor was Jay&tis (the Planet
Mars), and my laganputti (horoscope) is in the house of
Brihispati (Jupiter). Am I safe, oh Sage?
Bard (looking hard at traveller) — I had thought,
great sir! that Feringhees had no sires, and were sons
of the sea!
Traveller — Who knows ! My grandsire was perhaps a
lion or an elephant! oh bard! Feringhees have sharp
swords. Their magic consists in wisdom, courage, and
justice. If ever you hear children of the sun or moon
say their magic is stronger than English, they lie! Re
member to put that in your next chacah (poem), oh
nephew of a bard ! and for God's sake, great sir, keep your
pluck up (dil musboocl rdkho), or the Bhut-log (ghosts)
will catch even you !
Bard (with profuse salaams) — Protector of the poor!
I will do so. There is no danger here for an English
Russaloo like his highness !
With this I gave the bard his "rooksut" (dismissal)
and a British rupee. I may add that I have ever found
"backsheesh" more mighty to the Vedic mind than any
deity of the Hindoo Pantheon.
I can never forget, however, the fresh delight we took
in our mountain walks, and the "new sensation" of ex
ploring a wild and only half known country-side. I have
made many journeys in this lovely district since that
early period of my life, but not having kept journals, per
haps I may confuse some of the localities then visited;
e2

244

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

but my impression is that it was on this occasion we
made our return journey vid "Jowala-Mookhi," a sacred
place, where naphtha springs and spontaneous fire are
found. Of course there is a Giant here, whose breathing
belched forth from below the mountain, causes these
phenomena.

No. 82- THE FORT AND VILLAGE OF HURRIEPORE.

Our road conducted us across a mountain scarped into
steps, as is not unusal in this region, to Hurriepore, our
next stage, and so on to Mokerian, on the Beas. Here I
had to leave my horse "Rufus," who sank, poor fellow!
from the effects of climbing and hard work in the hot
sun of a Punjaub April; and so returning on our former
track, vid Deenanugger and Umritsur, we reached Lahore
in time for the "muster" of the first of May, 1848, where
I resumed my duties as Adjutant of the large artillery
division there quartered, consisting of two troops of
horse-artillery, two field batteries, a wing of a European
battalion, and a company of golundauz (native artillery).
Those were stirring times, and this an important po
sition for a young officer of not more than four years'
standing; and I may almost say that these were about
the most interesting and hopeful years in my career !

Chapter 1.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 245
Yes! stirring times were approaching close; and before
I again visited these lovely mountains I had been many
months under canvas in the field, at the Siege of Mooltan
and subsequent battles of the Punjaub War of 1848-9.
These were the days alluded to in the preamble of this
volume, "when Abbott, of Khiva celebrity," was ruling
Hazara with patriarchal sway — himself a host, but alone
in a country as large as Wales — as mentioned in the part
treating of that district; and when the gallant Edwardes,
on the Derajhat frontier, having to face rebellion — col
lecting an army as he marched — drove the rebel Moolraj
within his stronghold, Mooltan, and held him there until
our arrival in support.
The times brought one in contact with characters who
afterwards achieved celebrity: — Sir Henry Lawrence,
Resident of Lahore; Brigadier (afterwards Sir Colin)
Campbell,* who obtained his first line command in the
Lahore of those days; and Major Robert Napier of the
Engineers, now Lord Napier of Magdala, may be men
tioned as amongst our leading officials in Lahore at that
period. James Abbott, Nicholson, Herbert Edwardes
Olpherts, Hodson, have already been casually alluded to
in the course of the foregoing narrative, and others might
be mentioned. Assuredly the Punjaub of.those days was
not wanting in men of promise and distinction.
* Ultimately Lord Clyde.

# 46 The Highlands of India. [Section III.

CHAPTER 2.
IT will thus have been seen that the author on three or
four several occasions visited the Kangra district.
On each occasion I found the aspect of the country
much changed; instead of the wild tracts of jungle,
such as they were, for instance, near Deenanugger at
my visit in 1848, I found when next I came that way
(about 1864) along the banks of the Bari Doab canal,
smiling crops and a well wooded green country, thor
oughly shaded by avenues of trees, the creation of its
fertilizing waters.
On this last occasion, on my return from Dalhousie
— leaving the hotel there after dinner — I made a moon
light flitting across the hills to the Ravi, where, on
arrival by dawn of day, I embarked on the "mussocks"
with my travelling bag and bedding. Thence, rushing
down the torrent through striking scenery — past Bissoli
— between gorges cleft by the river as it escapes through
the lower ranges of hills to the plains of the Punjaub, I
reached Sindwana Ghat in four hours, and — a friend
having sent his trap to meet me — I was seated at break
fast at Madhopore, the Engineer station at the head of
the Bari Doab canal, by 10 a.m.; thus traversing in five
hours a distance from Dalhousie of two days' journey by
road. Thence I rode down the canal banks to Umritsur
and so to Lahore.
"Once again" (1870) I visited this lovely district, and
proceeded beyond it as far as the Chumba Valley, where
the river Ravi can be seen emerging from the gorges of
Barmawar. Chumba itself being rather an interesting
town, with some fine temples and a broad polo* ground;
* Called Chogdn, a game of Thibetan origin, formerly played in many
of the sub-Himalayan towns in these hills.

liP ; . ];
¦IH mi ; ,11

^Mft

V : I1
\\ % 'i, iiv , - ii
It - V V
¦I II W1"- ".' ft'iffl IfVw^rf'H'' *-*X. ¦ ¦, 'i I ¦'¦'¦
a 1 1 I ML tBSEvjfi&vSrifisL .. . ¦.¦ ¦¦':. :¦ J 1 it ' . <i

iiiii

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 247
one of the few to be seen cis-Himalayan, as the game
seems to have been of Thibetan origin, though imported
into India by the immigrant tribes who now form the
population of many Himalayan districts. In my oriental
readings, notably in the "Raja Taringini," I have met
with many allusions to this game as quite a state affair,
and evidently entering much into their political and
social life in ancient times.
We had visited Chumba, and pitched camp beneath
the cedars in the vale of Kujjear, a lovely oasis amidst
the dense forest of the Diarkhoond Mountain. Here
festoons of white roses are seen climbing far up the lofty
cedars, which come feathering down into the valley. The
legends of this Naga-haunted dell, where we lingered
several weeks in camp, are interesting, and suggestive of
the old "tree and serpent" worship antecedent to Aryan
times.

In these woods bears, leopards, apes (lungoors), and
wild boars abound. I have encountered them in my
rambles, and heard them making night hideous by their
howls. Often would they approach our camp, where
several dogs and a pen of fowls no doubt formed an

248 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
attraction. Here may be seen the quaint Temple of
Kujji-nag, which, at midnight of the great day, we beheld
lighted up as I have attempted to depict in the sketch.
An aged jogi — supposed to be the avatar of the serpent
Kujji Naga himself — aged a hundred, having descended
from his lair in the mountains, led the dance in the guise
depicted — a weird sight. On this occasion the author
wrote: "A descendant of the western barbarians who
"dwelt in the cimmerian wastes of the land of Thor —
"extra anni solis-que vias — beyond the genial sun of the
"Hindoo Pantheon, wandering in these wild mountains
"one summer time, pitched his camp for many days
"amidst the cedar slopes of Kujjear, and composed this
"history." Temples to "Jullundrie," the tutelary goddess of the
flowers and rains of summer, are found along these
marches — notably in Kiilu — where she is specially wor
shipped. The author once saw the July festival in her
honour, during which she was carried about on bamboo
poles by youthful acolytes, strongly suggestive of the
maypole mummers of our youth in English counties.*
For a description of "Dalhousie," the great sanitarium
of this district, I would refer the reader to pages 46-48 of
Vol. I., where it is described as "situated on a ridge,
"whence on one side, the plains as far as Umritsur and
"Sealkot, on the Chenab, may be seen in clear weather;
"it may be defined as a congeries of hill tops, which,
"branching out west from the great mountain Diark-
"hoond (9000), descend in a series of steps — Bukr6ta
"(7,600), Te"rah (6,840), Putrain (6,820), and Baltin (5,687),
"forming 'malls,' railed off from the 'kudds,' the summits
"being crowned with oak and other foliage." The environs
* Vide Appendix at end of section.

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 249
of Dalhousie abound in sylvan nooks, and the forests
contain leopards and troops of large lungoor apes. Their
presence was indicated in two instances during our stay
there in August and September, 1870. One of my syces
in charge of several valuable horses, was exercising them
on the Bukrota mall early one morning, when a leopard
walked out of the forest side and followed him along the
road, declining to retreat when challenged, finally sitting
down on a knoll by the road side under which the horses
passed. He did not further molest the party, but the syce
returned, looking green, and reported the circumstance.
On another occasion a friend of mine, whom I had
just passed with his dogs on the mall, called out to me
to say that a large paw, evidently that of a leopard, had
just appeared above the edge of the kudd and made a
grab at one of his little terrier dogs. The leopard mis
sed his aim, however, and disappeared into the forest.
Dogs are always an attraction for leopards, and seem to
be their favourite prey. Pine-martins also abound in
the forests round Dalhousie and Kujjear. I have seen as
many as six on one tree close under the mall at the
former place, and at Kujjear I had a tame one — a most
amusing little "cuss" — who however, became at length so
mischievous that I had to shoot him.
On one occasion my wife and I, having missed our way,
had to sleep out all night under a tree in the Diarkhoond
forest, but experienced no molestation of any kind from
any of its sylvan denizens: we had no camp equipage
with us, and only one native attendant.
During my visits to these hills I have more than once
crossed the Kangra valley in various directions, — to
Dharmsala, Palumpore, Mandi, Shahjehanpore, and
Nadaun. The two former are on spurs of the great
Dhaola-Dhar range, which rises majestic to the height of

250 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
16000 feet above sea level, forming the northern boundary
of the valley. Over this range one crosses into Barmawar,
of which country I have already given a sketch from my
brother's pen. He had an opportunity of viewing it denied
to me, though I ascended the "Jot," the summit of the
pass leading into it.
I know no more pleasant country than the Kangra
valley to roam about in, abounding as it does in pleasant
nooks and quaint villages, whose inhabitants give one a
better idea of the Northern Rajpoot than I have en
countered elsewhere. Here, in many places, one crosses
mountains terraced with steps right across them, and
the whole country is studded with little rural shrines
sacred to many a deity of the Hindoo Pantheon. In Kulu
and Sookhdt, also, one encounters shrines dedicated to
divinities who are scarcely heard of elsewhere, such as
"Jullundrie," goddess of first fruits and flowers, already
mentioned. The "Guddies" are an interesting tribe of
this region, of whom an illustration is given elsewhere.*
Before closing this brief sketch of the small principal
ities of the Punjaub I will refer to my journals, and see
whether there be not notices of interesting points worthy
of remark.
Fort Kangra is, of course, always considered the point
of interest in this district, of which it formed the ancient
capitol, having been the seat of Kuttoch kings since the
dawn of history.
Palumpore is an interesting station on a fir-clad spur
of the Dhaola-Dhar, amidst tea grounds and gardens : at
the time of my visit the great fair was going on and much
social amusement.
Palumpore, Nadaun, Kumlagarh, Kulu, Mandi, Sookhe't,
all in the valley of the Beas are incidentally mentioned.

See Ethnological Appendix at end of work.

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.

251

No. 84^-THE KANGRA VALLEY, from the Gateway of the Fort.

**%>¦,

No. S5—F0RT KANGRA, the ancient Nagakot.

252

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

At Nadaun, in consequence of an introduction from the
D.-Commissioner of the district, we found a princely suite
of tents ready for our reception. We were welcomed by
the Raja's brother, who went fishing with us on the river
Beas. We descended the Beas some miles next day on
mussocks, much in the same way as has been already
described on the Ravi. Leading the procession of rafts
as we floated down the rapids, with a gun across the bows,

No. S6—PALLUMP0RE, from the Travellers' Bungalow.
and fishing right and left. We glided down the swiftly
flowing stream, making our day's journey under excep
tionally easy circumstances. We emerge from the banks
of the Beas — which here bends westward, forming the
southern boundary of the Kangra hills, and dividing that
district from Hooshiapore and the Jullunder Doab. Here
we find the civil station of Hooshiapore, formerly an im
portant military station, where I was quartered with my
troop in the year 1853.
I have mentioned "Jowala Mookhi," the mouth of the
entombed giant, who is thence supposed to vomit the
sulphur and naphtha of the hot springs enclosed within
the shrine, round which several jogis of an advanced type

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 253
may be seen standing or sitting motionless, except for
rolling eyes, some with arms extended for years, the
sinews withered and gaunt, a weird and melancholy sight!
From this point the steps over a terraced mountain to
Hurriepore, have already been described.
The mention of these localities conjures up the memory
of many a long ride across the country, enjoyed by me
whilst quartered at Hooshiapore in youthful days, when
the mind was fresh and full of appreciation of the beauties
of nature. There are many wild and picturesque nooks
in this strangely interesting country. The flora of these
lower hills is striking and peculiar, and I should altogether
fail in the attempt to convey the impressions caused on
my mind by many a grove of knarled or deeply shadow
ing trees, sometimes viewed at sunset during my almost
daily rides. One wood I recollect was — according to some
of the local authorities — "the abode of demons, serpents,
and lions," and in which, in fact, I observed the eeries of
many birds of prey on the tree-tops, and the lairs of
wild beasts were often apparent. From one especially of
these dense tangled groves — into which as I remember,
I once ventured near sunset — I was indeed glad to escape
without molestation from wild animals within the thicket,
who were apparently just leaving their lairs on prowl;
several of them brushed past me in the jungle.
I am reminded here of the career of the three young
bears — mentioned at page 131 of these sketches — which
I had brought with me from Cashmere, and reared from
cubs till they were three-quarters grown. In 1852 I
had left my (native) troop of horse artillery quartered at
Hooshiapore to take up an appointment. On doing so I
presented the bears to the men of the troop, with the
single stipulation that if turned out of the lines — an
eventuality I foresaw — they should take them up to the

254 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
mountains and release them. It appears they were
turned out, so faithful to their promise, the men hired
coolies and sent them off. The coolies, on arrival in the
mountains near Kangra let them go, and, having no
further interest in them, returned: but the bears, being
domesticated, would not leave the habitations of men,
and returned on their tracks, and in about a week re
appeared on the scene of their former life at Hooshiapore,
where they took up their quarters in the fields and thick
gardens which surround the place, leading a predatory
life. Having no fear of man, they would waylay the
villagers coming to market with vegetables, who seeing,
as they supposed, wild beasts coming for them, would
throw down their baskets and bolt, the bears appropri
ating their contents. They at last became such a nuisance
that shikaries had to be engaged to shoot them, and the
unfortunate brutes were thus ultimately disposed of.
I open another journal, part of which I see leads me
from the valley of the Sutlej into Kulu, Lahoul, Spiti,
and Zanskar, districts rather beyond the limits of this
immediate section, but assuredly "Highlands of India;"
and, indeed, as the journey lay along the very axis of the
Himalayan mountains west of the Sutlej, they may almost
be reckoned as in the Kohisthan of the Punjaub.
Leaving the Sutlej valley about the beginning of July,
I entered the country of Kulu, and wandered about its
lovely forests. Dense forests characterize this delightful
land, and I find by my journal that at Largee — the
confluence of the Beas, Tyrton, and Synje — forms the
Beas properly so called. I went by Dulasunee and Bi-
jowrie to Sooltanpoor, halting on the banks of the Beas
and Parbuttie one sunset to view the incremation of
Thakoor Sing the last Raja of Kulu, who had died the

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.
preceeding day, a picture of which impressive scene is
produced, as the best description that could be given of
a most weird and wild ending of a human creature.
Thence I passed along the road to Nugger and Juggut-
sookh, noting the gleaming waterfalls which break in
silver foam at numerous points from the hills which
bound the valley on either side of the Beas. I rested at
the Deputy-Commissioner's house there, in the courtyard
of which there is a sacred stone fabled to have been
brought there by "bees!" Thence, on the 15th, I crossed
the Rotung pass, the watershed between the Beas and

No. 87-INCREMATION OF THAKOOR SING, LAST RAJA OF KULU,
[9th July, 1852).

256

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

Chandra rivers, into Lahoul.

The source of the former
river is closely adjacent.
Thence over the bridge

..,|J^ at Koksur,some distance

--JilSlliliRIl up tlie Spiti valiey'
ISSSBIli^ Then back along the
valley of Lahoul as far
as Tiloknauth, where
the Temple of Siva
deserves some notice.
The image of the deity

No. 88— Swing Bridge over the Chandrabhaga
at Kaksur.

within it is shrouded in gloom, but is occasionally lighted
up, by numerous trays of lamps : such was it on the oc
casion of my visit.
The heat in the valley of Lahoul was very great, and,
on the whole, I regard it as one of the worst localities I
have viewed in Indian mountain travel. A valley, not
less than sixty miles in length, running due east and west,
bounded along its whole course by bare rocks and formid
able mountains which act as a focus for the sun's rays.
It was fearfully hot from early morn to dewless eve, the
sun's rays, as from a lens, poured burning on one's head.
The only green things
being a sparse scrub,
with a few bushes of
alder and of stunted
willows occasionally
fringing the small water
courses. Only at one
place, Goondileh, is
there much cultivation.
The mountains on the
left, as one descends the
No. 89— Goondileh, in the valley of Lahoul. valley which divide it

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub, 257
from Barmawar and Bara Banghal, are sufficiently lofty
to freeze the rain of the monsoon which breaks against
them, and unable to cross the axis, falls in snow on their
summit. A strange sight was thus presented, — dense
surging rain-clouds rolling against the crest of the hill,*
sometimes within half a mile, but never — except in one
or two very partial localities, where the general level of
the mountains slightly droops — did a drop of rain cross
into the dry and arid valley, along which, however, the
Chandrabhaga roars on its headlong course towards
Kishtewar and the Punjaub plains, one hundred and
fifty miles distant, through a channel of calcined rock,
over striated boulders torn from the glaciers of Lahoul.
Although quite done up from the effects of my hot
march and impending illness, I made some attempt to
hunt ibex in these mountains, but it was too much for
me. I was taken fearfully ill with, I suppose, jungle fever
in the valley of Gurput, where, close under the glaciers
of Rupshoo, I lay very ill for three days. My shikari
sat by my bedside weeping, and kept asking "where I
wished to be carried?" It did not occur to me for some
time that this question was in case of my dying there, but
when the idea dawned on me, it acted as a wholesome
stimulus: so at length I made an effort, and crossing the
"Godur" pass into the country of Padur and Pangi, thence
pushed on for near a hundred miles to Kishtewar. The
day we crossed the Godur glacier we were overtaken by
night under the pass, and had to camp on the mountain
at an elevation of near 15000 or 16000 feet, the highest

* I have seen a somewhat similar phenomenon above Sirahan on the
Sutlej, where the monsoon rains cleft into two waves were breaking
against the funnel-shaped Wangtu gorge in sleet or even snow, on the
lofty scarps which rise above the river many thousands of feet near
Taranda on the Sutlej. S

258 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
elevation at which I ever slept. The night was bitterly
cold, and we all huddled into a small tent, with difficulty
pitched on the steep mountain side.
This Godur pass possesses some peculiarities; amongst
them the occurrence of "showers of stones." The explan
ation is that the grasp of the ice holding these stones-
some of very large size — is relaxed about mid-day by
the sun's rays. I recollect we had to run across from
salient to salient as fast as the ground permitted, between
the showers. On one occasion one of my servants, who
was leading the file, was nearly carried away by one of
these avalanches : he saw it coming, and ran back just in
time to escape a large rock, fully the size of a bullock
trunk, which passed about a yard over his head. He
arrived under shelter looking green. There are also some
very difficult — I may say dangerous — "skrees" of live rock
along this pass, such being slippery slabs of shale sloping
at angles of forty-five degrees or more, across which the
only means of passage are nicks the size of the hill-men's
feet; to miss one's step on such places would be instant
destruction, by sliding off into a chasm several thousand
feet in depth. I heard of one such accident to an officer,
caused by his dog, on this route, which, however, has
seldom been traversed. I confess my heart was some
times in my mouth on crossing these hideous passages,
and I would- occasionally have my hill-stick held horizon
tally by my guide on crossing them; even then to find
one's footing on the sloping and slippery rock was difficult
and alarming, and on reaching the head of the Pangi val
ley I felt thankful to have got over them safe, especially
as I was out of health with nerves unbraced. This, to my
thinking, was the most dangerous hill track I ever
traversed. On this journey I was sixty days without
speaking my native tongue to any European. I had to

Chapter 2-] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 259
send all my Gurhwal coolies back from this point, as they
had suffered in health equally with myself.
After leaving the dreary glaciers of Zanskar, one finds
beautifully wooded shores on the Chandrabhaga, whose
features, however, have been already sketched in the
Section "Cashmere" {vide page 100).
The foregoing is, however, leading us back on our tracks
towards Cashmere; so I must recross the Godur glacier
and conduct my reader vid Spiti, and Kanawar, into the
valley of the Sutlej, and so approach Simla from a point
other than that adverted to in Vol. I, "Highlands of
India," pages 56-7.
Of the valley of Spiti I saw but little, not having
traversed it throughout. Its characteristic features, how
ever, are much like those of Lahoul, extended into the
loftier mountains which, on the west, lock in the main
stream of the Chandra: across the watershed the Le' or
Spiti river is followed to the Sutlej. Lofty terraces ap
pear on either bank, perched on which one may view an
occasional Llama monastery far up the hillside. Here,
also, some gigantic specimens of the deodar cedar — not
less than forty or fifty feet in circumference — may be
seen on the skirts of this " land of snow."
Kanawar, also — "the land of grapes" — I have but a
limited knowledge of, and have only peeped into from the
valley of the Sutlej. It may be taken as representative
of the general features of this lovely country, which, hke
Kulu, is well wooded, and its side mountains clothed with
splendid forests, an agreeable relief to the eye after the
bare rocks of Spiti and Lahoul. Here again,, near, I
think, Sirahan, where the Sutlej emerges from the gorges
of Kanawar,* the phenomenon mentioned at page 257
* It was at the Drali cliff along this route that Sir A. Lawrence was
precipitated, with his horse, over a kudd several thousand feet deep.
Poor fellow ! I had seen him shortly before this lamentable end.
s2

260 The Highlands of India. [Section III.
was presented even more emphatically than in Lahoul,
viz., the monsoon breaking in rolling clouds on the apex
of the mountains, which here trend north and east at
an angle forming the funnel or gorge of the river, a
sublime sight, almost unparalleled in my experience of
"cloud effects!"
Between Sirahan and Chini are found groves of Neoza
pine, amidst whose dark shades a weird silence seems to
reign, and a shrine to some local deity may often be ob
served as characteristic of these mountains: such, indeed,
forms a common feature in almost all the cis-nivean pro
vinces of the Himalayas. Lofty terraces, several thousand
feet above the roaring Sutlej, are here found, from which
stand-points the inferior slopes may advantageously be
viewed, often holding a village, which seems as though
ready to slide off into the river; the inhabitants appear
ing like flies on the rocky walls of the abyss; and an
occasional bear observed feeding on the patches of green
beneath the rocky cliffs appears, viewed from the heights,
like a caterpillar on a green leaf amidst the grassy slopes.
In Bussahir, the Sungri and Poindah forests, are full of
morinda pine with patches of deodar cedar, and may be
instanced as examples of Himalayan forest scenery along
the valley of the Sutlej.
Years after this (in 1871) I again visited the valley of
the Sutlej, and lived for many days at the travellers'
bungalow at "Nakunda"; a grand forest, even for the
Himalayas ! It extends, at an elevation of 4000 feet, for
many miles along the Sutlej, from Nakunda ridge to
Koomarsen, and beyond, embracing "Huttoo," that three-
peaked mountain on the northern edge of the "Shunkun"
ridge, the boundary limit of Keyonthal, from which also
the mountains of Kiilu can advantageously be viewed.
The quantity of pheasants I shot here that season was

Chapter 2.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub. 261
considerable. The Viceroy (Lord Mayo), himself a sports
man, had instituted a "close season" for these hills, and
the consequence was that for one pheasant viewed in
former seasons I this year found at least twenty.
I had engaged the services of a shikari, with a certain
little "cocker" dog, who was trained to tree the birds,
which — considering the ground they inhabit, and the
difficulty of picking up — I made no scruple to pot on the
lofty pine trees, though preferring a flying shot when at

illililK ftaSt'SfflfC ! life
^mm (l '~zM£yMb&$^9i

~*fizL2 Yy -^&^**sp2£gZ^\£?*ffff 0-
No. 90— PHEASANT SHOOTING IN THE FOREST OF NAKUNDA.
all obtainable. I got a few chikore, also, this year, on the
hills about Simla. On the first of September I observed
Lord Mayo himself go out after them. In the woods I
encountered his Excellency, who had evidently marked
down the same coveys as myself. Being the weaker ves
sel, I of course gave way to his party, as in duty bound,
and took another beat. Deeply did I regret, like the rest
of the world, when that able Governor General, and
genial, kind-hearted gentleman, met his untimely fate
shortly after at the hand of an assassin.
But in recalling these reminiscences I have crossed the
Sutlej, and am going almost beyond the limits of the

262

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

districts assigned to this Section. I observe in Vol. I. that
Simla and the Keyonthal are embraced in a subsequent
section, so that to preserve the unities I must reserve the
"Imperial Mountain" and its dependencies for further
consideration and record in Section IV.

'•MSCll'WW''
No. 91— Pine Tree overpowered by Creepers.

Appendix.] The Kdhisthdn of the Punjaub.

<263

APPENDIX.

No. 92— THE GODDESS JULLUNDRIE—Q). 248).

264

The Highlands of India. [Section III.

APPENDIX.

No. 93— TEMPLE OF BHIMA, Valley of the Sutlej.
[Bhima or Bhim Sen, the second Pandau, commander of the Pandau
armies in the wars of the Mahabarat, is fabled to have built Pinjore at
the foot of these hills, and generally to have made these mountains the
arena of his activities.]

MR
ijM'
W-5
.,*> '<i>i3
^gyytf-t
XVII.— W£M/ OF rH£ CHOfl MOUNTAIN AND ''SHUNKUN RIDGE," FROM SIMLA.
( 265 )

SECTION IV.
SIMLA, THE KEYONTHAL, & THE BASINS
OF THE SUTLEJ AND GIRL
A day's "Lockspitting" on the Thibet road — Anecdotes —
The Forest of Nakunda — Ascent of Mount Huttoo
— Pheasant Shooting — A Trip to Koomdrsen and
the Sutlej — Fireflies — Picnic to the Chdr Mountain
— The Shunkun ridge.
AFTER the technical description of the country of
Keyonthal, or Kyunthal, given in the correspond
ing section of Vol. I., it seems inexpedient here to enlarge
on the subject. In that section the author wrote (para.
6) : "A few words as to the natural features of this fine
"district, and we may pass on. Who that has visited
"Simla can forget its pine covered hills and
"cultured valleys, gleaming far below the
"mountain sides into the misty 'straths,' and

No. 94— VIEW OF SIMLA from Mahasoo.

266 The Highlands of India. [Section IV.
"purple glens and gorges; its flush of rhododendron
"forest, and groves of oak and ilex; its wild flowers and
"breezy ridges — haunts of the chikore. The glory of
"novelty has long since faded from the writer's mind,
"and he finds it difficult to impart to his words the en-
"thusiasm of youth as formerly felt on viewing these
"fair mountains so as graphically to paint the scene."
Instead of elaborate topographical details, I will con
tent myself here with a few experiences of the district as
set forth at the heading of the chapter. I will commence
with the first in point of time, — "A day's lockspitting on
the Thibet road," as illustrative of work in early days at
Simla. In the early summer of, I think, 1850, having obtained
a month's leave "between musters," I proceeded from my
military station to Simla. After paying my devoirs to
society there, I determined one fine morning to ride out
and visit my old college friend, George H, at that time
employed in laying out the new road to Thibet, called the
" Kennedy" road. His camp, if I recollect rightly, was
some ten miles from Simla, on the reverse of the Maha-
«oo bluff. On arrival, I found my friend starting for his
day's "lockspitting," and at his invitation I joined him
for the day, a somewhat rash adventure, as the sequel
will show. Many of my readers may not know what
"lockspitting" is, so I may say that it is the laying out,
or levelling, of a new hill road. The superintending en
gineer precedes a "brigade" of pioneers with the "dumpy
level." He goes straight ahead on the hill-side, however
steep; two pioneers come immediately after him, and cut
a nick of ten inches wide in the path selected; the next
pair widen it to three feet; and so the path is opened out
by the rest into a hill road. In the instance on hand, I
followed my friend, whose wiry form went ahead as the

Section IV.]

Simla, etc.

267

advance. All went smoothly for a time. We got over
some easy re-entering ground amongst the pine forest;
the only incidents being the blasting of a few rocks,
which went thundering down the kudd into the valley,
shaving the tops of the pines they encountered on their
way as thistle heads might be whipped off by a cane.
We got round several salients, where one had to step
round corners overhanging precipices of many hundred
feet in depth, till at length, towards evening, we ap
proached a tough bit of rock.
Now I had come up from the plains rather seedy — out
of sorts from hot weather influences — and I daresay my
nerves were not in the best order for stiff hill climbing.
I had already skipped like a mountain goat over one or
two breakneck places; and now, not only was I tired
out, but as the shades of night approached, my eyesight,
always a weak point, began to fail me. At length,
thoroughly done up, I recollect
utterly "shutting up" on the
hill-side; I refused to budge a
foot further, and in fact my friend
had to send for drag-ropes and
haul me up the kudd in a most
ignominious fashion. I need
scarcely add that this formed
my first and last experience of
the delights of "lockspitting,"
though I have been over many
• a worse path since. I can ima-
' gine, however, what a charming
employment it may have formed
to one in robust health, thus liv
ing amidst lovely sylvan scenery,
no. K-studyof'a^Sa^ Cedar, to feel oneself advancing into

The Highlands of India. [Section IV.

the "interior," as the country beyond Simla used to be
called, and extending civilization.
My friend was not only an engineer, but a sportsman,
and the pheasants, chikore, and other game he managed
at times to bag was tantalizing to the denizen of a hot
station in the plains to hear of.
Many long years afterwards, accompanied by my wife,
I found
myself re
siding for
a period of
a week at a
pretty ho
tel called
the Gables,
at Musho-
bra, near
Simla,
from which
point I
wandered down the
crest of
mountainwhich over
hangs the
Sutlej op
posite Soo-
khe"t as far
No. 96— Ferns on Trees at the ''Gables," Mushobra. as Maloun.
We afterwards lived for a fortnight at the travellers'
bungalow in the forest of Nakunda. Our rambles about
the woods were numerous, and included an ascent of
Huttoo, a mountain forming the north-west terminal of

Section IV] Simla, etc. 269
the " Shunkun ridge," amidst whose slopes the Giri and
the Pabur, the westernmost affluents of the Jumna,
originate — and which forms, as I have mentioned in
Vol. I., "the dividing watershed of north-west India;
"rivers rising on its south and east sides fall into the
"Pabur, Tonse, and Jumna, and so into the Ganges and
"Bay of Bengal, whilst those rising on its north and west
"sides find their way into the Sutlej and Indus, and so
"into the Western Ocean.* The Shunkun ridge, in fact,
"which extends from mount Huttoo to the 'Chor' may
"thus be considered as the 'great divide' or water-parting
"between the basins of the Ganges and the Indus — the
"actual watershed of India."
This ridge, however, though containing peaks probably
amongst the highest of the mountains of Bussahir and
Jubul, may be regarded as a mere offset of the great
Himalayan axis which runs down from the vast moun
tain Kailas, the Olympus of Hindoos; and which is, in
fact, the great mountain watershed of India. The roots
of this ridge are above Rampoor, east of Sirahan, and it
sends spurs on the west to the Sutlej into which its
tributary streams are poured through lateral glens. On
the east, the Pabur and Giri flow into the Jumna, and so
to the Ganges and Bay of Bengal. This great ridge rises
into peaks as high as or higher than Huttoo itself, such
as Moral and others which are crowned by the old Goor-
kha forts of Nowagurh and Mustgurh, and are interesting
as being the last strongholds of that redoubtable enemy

• Except the Giri, which, although its course at first passing to the
west under the Shunkun ridge looks as though it meant to fall into the
Sutlej, is deflected to the south-east after rounding the bluff below the
" Chdr," and, tilted to the south, like so many other Himalayan
streams, falls into the Jumna at Rajghat, below the junction of the
Tonse.

270 The Highlands of India. [Section IV.
of the British. It is proposed to ascend several of these
peaks, which also present interesting geological problems.
Fantastic rocks of sandstone and shale with striated
gneiss emerge from amidst tangled forest, and often ex
hibit an amalgam of quartz, mica, and shale, forming a
conglomerate like plum-pudding stone. The speculative
mind of the geologist could busy itself in suggesting the
operations of Nature of which such is the outcome. Evi
dence of water action is apparent, but whether the grasp
of ice, the surging rain clouds of the monsoon, or the
sweep of the storm wind which bends the cedars and
pines which clothe their sides, is not apparent. Knarled
oaks and hollies which crown their hoary summits are
their vesture — they stand "like Druids of eld, with beards
"that rest on their shoulders." Under their leafy tops
the shaggy bear and mountain goats — the satyrs of the
woods — disport themselves. The divinities of the moun
tain and the forest here have shrines as Genii loci —
demigods scarce recognized in the orthodox Hindoo
Pantheon — but of whom weird fables are told by aged
highlanders of Bussahir and Jubul.
I propose to make this my stand-point, from which to
view the country of Keyonthal; — including Simla and
its dependent stations, — as enumerated at the head of
the corresponding section of Vol. I., "Highlands of India."
First then an "ascent of Huttoo." It is an easy climb.
Proceeding about a mile towards Kotgurh, one leaves the
road and ascends a forest track amidst the pines, whose
redolent odour invigorates the traveller, and makes the
climbing pleasant; dense pines overspread him as he
ascends, affording a grateful shade, and from time to time
he obtains charming glimpses through vistas of the forest
of the rolling mountain spurs he is leaving below him.
"Onwards! but take it easy!" is almost a needless invo-

Section IV] Simla, etc. 271
cation. The inclination is to take it too easy! and linger
at the points of vantage already gained. The gallantry of
the hill men is now tested, as there are ladies of the party.
Hill sticks are handed, and form guiding staves to haul
as well as propellers in hand. At length we emerge from
the forest on to grassy slopes near the summit, where
sheep may nibble the emerald turf which has succeeded
the just departed snow.
Here we are close to the old fort of Nowagurh, the
very last position held by the Goorkhas in the war of
1815-16. Their commander, Kirtee Rana, finding his
force melting away by desertion, attempted to join Umr
Sing Thappa, who was still holding out at Maloun, lower
down the Sutlej. He eA^acuated the position, but was
assailed on the march by the men of Bussahir and Jubul,
and utterly destroyed: as an old native said, "dead Goor
khas lay about the hills like sparrows, and their bones
whitened the forests like dry sticks." The few that es
caped the massacre surrendered to the British contingent
under (I think) General Martindale, and so escaped an
nihilation. I made some effort to trace the operations of
that war hereabouts, but of course could not do much to
verify so complicated a guerilla warfare. In the final
campaign, Umr Sing Thappa held Maloun; his son, Run-
joor Sing, held Jytock; whilst Kirtee Rana, as above
narrated, held Nowagurh and Chumba-ke-Teeba. These
three points embraced a country which may, perhaps, be
called "The Keyonthal march" — the district under notice.
On the side of the British, Generals Ochterlony and
Martindale, from their respective lines of advance, after
arduous operations, and aided by large levies of hill men
of Sirmoor, Jubul, and Bussahir, with Sikhs and Goor-
kha deserters, finally succeeded in overcoming the most
vigorous enemy which had hitherto encountered British
arms in the East.

272 The Highlands of India. [Section IV.
But lo! a black cloud gathers over the pines, and ere
one can have had time to sketch the scene, the hail is
upon us! Luckily there is a cave — there generally is
one — dose at hand, and we run for it! From this cave
a view of the triform top of the mountain — with the
" Giants' chiilas" — is obtained. This cave is almost his
torical in my personal reminiscences: here I mentally
sketched a "Tale of the Pandaus," who are, in fact,
associated in fable with this hillside. The hailstorm
was a severe one, and we were glad in the late afternoon
to be able to descend the mountain. Night had nearly
closed in; the sun had sunk amidst black and jagged
cloud beyond the dark pine forest of Nakunda, the west
glowing with fierce red light through the rifted cloud;
the peaks of Kulu across the Sutlej tipped with the same
lurid glare — blood red — emblematic of the deeds which
had been enacted by the ruthless Goorkhas in days of
old, during their conquest of these hills. Some such
thoughts were suggested to us as we regained our com
fortable bungalow in the forest of Nakunda.
I have already alluded to this forest of Nakunda (Sec
tion III.) It is a grand forest, and almost unique even
in the Himalayas. It is filled with "koklas and kalej
pheasants, and chikore are abundant everywhere."
I have mentioned pheasants; many a one have I banged
after as they crossed the path-side hke rockets in the
Nakunda forest; sometimes bagging one, but more often
losing the bird, which, if hit, would fall half a mile down
the kudd. On the whole, the shikari with his dog — al
luded to in the last chapter — did a mighty deal better
business in pheasants than I did; however, between us we
had usually some dozen labelled for the table always
hanging in our larder; and, in fact, we almost lived on
pheasants whilst in the Nakunda forest.

Section IV.] Simla, etc. 273
"Twice have I sought Nakunda's glen." On one
occasion, long ago, I went down to Koomarsen, on the
Sutlej, and wandered about its vicinity for several days.
The swift, turbid Sutlej, rolls along at one's feet under
the antique rajah's palace, which is, however, 3000 feet
above it. A fearful descent of rough path with irregular
steps leads down to the banks of the river. My tent was,
I recollect, pitched in a garden on an upper terrace, one
of an ascending series, so that the door of my tent was
about on a level with the tops of the trees growing on
the terrace below. On the night of my arrival, having
put out my lamp, I gazed forth at the stars from my tent
before finally turning in, and shall never forget the sight
that, greeted me on doing so. The whole air was filled
with fireflies, a myriad sparks of fire on every branch
and spray, and the leafy wilderness of trees bathed in
the pellucid dew of night was alive with them.
Many a fair scene, in which fireflies played their part,
has the author viewed, but "never aught like this!" I
suppose they must have been "swarming," or just emer
ged from the pupa state.
I find the following in my journal, apropos of fireflies,
but whence extracted or whether original I am quite at a
loss to remember. It seems applicable to Southern India,
but exactly describes the case in hand — "A thunder storm,
succeeded by showers, had closed a sultry day. The sun
had set unobscured, but the western sky is overhung
with clouds. In the cloudless east the full moon slowly
rises; the air perfectly pellucid, the stars glittering in
fresh glory; not a breath of wind; all still. You turn
from the broad red orb of the rising moon to the host
of golden stars in the deep azure, from them to the re
treating clouds, lit up by faint lightnings, then by the
pale beams of the moon, their bold edges fringed with

274 The Highlands of India. [Section IV.
silver, and wonder at the beauties of the world above,
where, in the dark blue depths of heaven, light seems
to vie with light in the illumination of the vast dome
built by the unseen Master. But a scene of strange
beauty is spread below. Shrub and bush and tree, as
far as the eye can reach, beam with magic light; the
ground, the air, with lustre. Every leaf seems to have
its own fairy lamp. The valley at your feet, the
wooded hills to your right and left, the dark, distant
forest, all are lit up or glow in ever varying splen
dour, as if every star had sent a representative to bear
his part in this mighty illumination of the poor dark
earth. Whence all at once these innumerable lights?
No sound is heard: silently all these shining throngs
pass before you in fantastic confusion. Look at this
bush — that tree: myriads of fiery sparks brighten up
with red glare through the labyrinth of leaves and
branches; a moment, and they vanish! Now they flash
up brighter than ever, as if this world of phosphor lustre
was animated by pulsations keeping regular time. You
sit and look, and think you could sit all night beholding
the fairy scene. I have seen nothing to be compared
with this dissolving view, except, perhaps, the phosphoric
splendour of our tropical seas, when under a soft breeze
your boat glides through placid waters on a starlight
night." One day, on the road near Koomarsen, I encountered a
pair of iguana lizards, several feet in length.. They rushed
past me like foxes or jackals. I shot one over two feet
in length.
Here I crossed the Sutlej, into the Sookhe't country,
descending the terrible winding path, and ascending as
bad a one on the other bank, and looked after "goorul,"
but I do not recollect that I obtained or even saw any at

Section IV] Simla, etc. 275
this time; nor has my experience of "goorul" shooting
elsewhere been worthy of record.
I will conclude this slight sketch of the environs of
Simla with a "picnic to the Chor mountain."
I had travelled about the "marches" of Keyonthal,
accompanied by my wife, in 1871. One day, arriving at
Theog, we met a small party of friends. We arranged to
visit the Chor. Camping out the first night on the
Shunkun plateau, we proceeded to the mountain bluff
which commands the course of the Giri and the Pabur —
called, I think, Dheoni Dhar — not far from the old fort
of Choupal, the capitol village of "Jubul," situate on a
range near the Chor. Under this ridge runs the Bisharie
nullah, which divides "Jubul" from Sirmoor. It rises in
the Chor mountain, and falls, I think, into the Giri, which
hereabouts turns south, and falsifies the idea I had enter
tained of its being a tributary of the Sutlej.
I may confess that, as a party, we never reached the
Chor. Leaving the ladies camped in a flowery glen,
amidst larkspurs, columbines, lupines, lillies, straw
berries, deutschias, and the many herbaceous plants
which clothe these mountains in summer, we like er
rant knights, took to wandering separately over the face
of the hills. I, for one, ascended several "starry sum
mits" — the Chor may have been one of them. Weather
worn boulders extruded from amidst tangled trees and
ferns and grasses characterized these cloud-capped emi
nences: but what a view! Simla and its subtending
forests, with the Chor and the basin of Keyonthal; the
bounding ridge of the Punjaub, and its rivers, are visible
from this mountain crest; whilst from the Shunkun ridge,
the "great divide" or water-parting of the land, the courses
of the Tonse, the Pabur, and the Giri, are seen emerging
from the pastoral slopes of Huttoo and Someroo, and
t2

276 The Highlands of India. [Section IV
opening out into bright gleaming terraces of cultivated
verdure as they approach their junction with the Jumna.
On this ridge I met an aged inhabitant of Jiibul.
"Here, Sahib," said he, "were scattered the skeletons of
Goorkhas, like sticks or straws of autumn!" and, in fact, it
was whilst in retreat along this mountain crest that the
last of those invaders made their stand in 1816, as already
narrated. I made some notes, and endeavoured to realize
the progress of that war, but it was too deep for me: a
stray legend or two of these fair mountains is all I can
recall as a memento.
Was it perhaps hereabouts I heard the legends of
Bukhooncha, "the Valley of Spirits," within whose wild
and shaggy dells the satyrs of the wood were wont to
carry off mortal maidens to their haunts, and bestow on
them the gift of prophesy? In these haunted dells also
were seen the visions of the dead, — embodied mists of
various colours, like the shades of men advancing in sad
procession! Was it at Lakha Mundel, the temple of the
five Pandaus on the frontier of Gurhwal, that Hanuman,
"son of the wind," descended from his haunt of Josimut
and uprooted trees and mountains? I have heard, but
memory scarcely serves to localize or reproduce the
legends. Suffice to say that the rivers of Rewdin were
the fabled arena of these and other wild legends. They
cleave their way through pastoral slopes, amidst rocks
of gritstone, gneiss, and, in places, shale and micacious
schist, till merged in the Jumna, the eastern boundary
of Sirmoor, across the Shunkun ridge, the "great divide"
of Indian Himalayas. Here, however, we are in the
basin of the Ganges, and must defer the local description
to the succeeding section, which treats of the Gangetic
Watersheds. Let me rather recall the glory of the scenery! — the

Section IV.J Simla, etc. 277
rays of a late summer sunset were lighting up the glens
and greenery of these lovely mountains as I emerged
from the forests of the Chor, and catching my pony
"Joomi," made shift to push on across the plateau and
join the ladies in camp that autumn night.
Clad in warm wraps we gaze on the fair night scene
from this "starry summit." The white gleaming waves
of the Giri are visible from camp as it wanders through
the darkened valley. Glow-worms and luminous grass*
illustrate the night scene — the plash of falling waters,
and the plaintive note of the woodland night birds invite
the repose so necessary for our journey back on the mor
row. We rally our forces, and next day making a forced
march, we all returned to the bungalow at Theog, where
the party dispersed to their several destinations. Ours
was Simla. The temptation is strong on me here to
pause and enter on a short sketch of social life in the
Indian Capua! But, no! Let me adhere to nature pure
and simple! I must leave the description of the imperial
mountain and its society to abler pens.
* This grass is the yotes rnuti, and emits a pale green light, not, I be
lieve, in any way phosphorescent.

No. 97— Roadside Ferns and Flowers.

SECTIONS V. & VI.
THE HIMALAYAN WATERSHEDS.

THE BASINS OF THE JUMNA & GANGES.
GURHWAL AND KUMAON.
CHAPTER 1.— GURHWAL.
Mussorie, and the Dehra Dhoon — Farming operations —
The Sewdliks — Anecdotes of Mahaseer fishing — The
Uplands of Gurhwdl — Mountain Panorama — High-
hill Game — Hindoo Legends — Bhima the Pandau.
WE are now in the Valley of the Ganges, and the
above heading would include the Himalayan
watersheds, cis-nivean between the Jumna and Brahma
putra, but as my experiences — except as to Sikhim —
within them are of so limited a nature, I feel inclined
to compress into one section of this work the picturesque
aspects of Gurhwal and Kumaon.
I must trust to others more conversant with this par
ticular district for their experiences, as also in regard to
the Dhoon, which no doubt holds, or did hold, much
game ; and the sporting reminiscences there acquired have
been put before the public by many pleasant writers
Although I have visited Mussorie and the Dhoon of
Dehra, my stay was so short that but few experiences
worthy of note occurred to me. A few pleasant rides
about the vicinity, during one of which — round the
Waverly hill — however, I recollect that a leopard leaped
across the road close behind my horse as I passed round

mmM

Chapter 1.]

Gurhwdl, etc.

279

a tufted bluff of the hill, are really all I have to recount
¦of this fine station, with its associated military canton
ment, Landaur, a portion of whose garrison has I believe,
since my day, been moved to Chakrata, a large new
station in the basin of the Tonse on the spurs of the
Deobund mountain.*
As a traveller I did, however, halt a day or two at
Dehra en passant, on my way from Mussorie, hired a good
horse, and galloped about the Dhoon in several directions,
viewing as much of the beautiful district as could be
comprised within a couple of days. Avenues of bachain,
and clumps of bamboos and fine mango trees, with
a rolling wooded country of small timber backed by the
Sewalik fir forests, form my impression of this fine
valley. The tea plantations, also, and caves of Sansidara,
with its stalactites, may be mentioned as objects worthy
of a visit. I have always regretted that time did not
allow me on this occasion to push on as far as Haridwar,
an interesting point, where the Ganges emerges (at Tupo-
bun) from the Himalayan ranges. The river is full of

^.V-'- -jr'^&r

No. 98— MUSSORIE,- -Landaur in the distance.

' Vol. I., "Highlands of India," Section V., paras. 2 and 3.

280 The Highlands of /«dm.[SEcnoNs V. & VI.
splendid mahaseer* and a friend tells me that he caught
one of sixty-four pounds weight near Tupobun.
It was here that Sir Archdale Wilson killed the eighty-
four pound mahaseer mentioned at page five of these
sketches. After three hours' play the fish was still run
ning strongly up stream; Sir A. — a tall wiry old sports
man — going at the top of his speed after him across a
rough country with more than one hundred yards of line
out; when, to his dismay, a side stream of an unnegotiable
size and depth came in view. Sir A. made up his mind
he had lost his fish, which, however, luckily turned out
of the main stream, and Sir A. was enabled to land him
at the fork of the rivers. From his size and strength Sir
A. was inclined to fear he had got hold of one. of the so-
called river "sharks"— one of the siluridse I believe —
which sometimes attain a weight of two hundred pounds,
in which case the angler is generally broken and baffled;
however, "all's well that ends well!" and Sir A. used to
chuckle over his success in this case.
This lovely valley of Dehra Dhoon (or Dun*) is said to
contain about seven hundred and fifty square miles, of
which the Sewalik forests comprise two hundred. It is
bounded on the north by the Himalayas — on the crest of
whose first range is found Mussorie and Landaur; — south
by the Sewaliks; east by the Ganges; west by the Jumna.
The Sewaliks are a zone of forest in which are — or at
any rate were — found most of the varieties of game known
to the Indian sportsman; and its extinct fauna has been
illustrated by the researches of Falconer, Cautley, etc.
The Dhoon itself was probably, in prehistoric times, the
bed of a shallow estuary or salt lake. It is in the upper
miocene, and abounds in marine and palustrine fossils.-f-
* I observe the word has been spelt indifferently Dhoon or Dun in
the text; it is probably identical with the Celtic "dune," "doons," or
"downs." + See page 71, Vol. I., "Highlands of India."

Chapter 1.] Gurhwdl, etc. 281
The climate is mild; enjoying a mean temperature of
about 72°, with a rainfall of eighty inches. "Sheltered
"alike from the parching blasts of an Indian summer and
"the cutting cold of winter, it forms for the settler a pic-
"turesque and lovely home with fertile soil and water-
" power, with the pleasant and healthful hill stations of
"Mussorie and Landaur close at hand; abundance of
"forage for cattle, and no lack of game for sport; excel
lent roads and outlets for produce, — combined, however,
"with a doubtful tenure of land."
It seems the very land for farming avocations, which
have, in fact, been introduced to some extent. Tea is
grown; breweries flourish; arboriculture and the raising
of live-stock and vegetables for the local markets have
met with fair success. Sheep and cattle farming would
seem to be a promising industry. Wool is a commodity
always much in demand; and it has always appeared to
me to offer far greater capabilities of development in the
entire ranges of the pastoral Himalayas than have hitherto
obtained. For an historical notice of the Dehra Dim — an ancient
appanage of Gurhwal — the reader is referred to page 77
et seq. of the corresponding section of Vol. I., "Highlands
of India," where also further notes on the topographical
and oreographical aspects of Gurhwal will be found. One
paragraph on the subject may be quoted here. "The
"country of Gurhwal — in size about ninety miles by sixty,
"and extending from the Himalayan peaks to the plains
"of Dehra Dun — comprises some of the loftiest peaks* in
"the whole Himalayan chain, but the ranges slope down
"into hot valleys, the country being intersected by the
* Jumnootri (25,669), Kedernath (23,062), Budrinath (23,221), Dewa-
lagiri (26,826), Nanda Devi (25,706), Trisool, Panchooli, Pindri, and
other peaks to the east. The average height of this part of the Hima
laya range =20,000.

The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
"deep chasms of the Alaknanda, the Tonse, the Pabur,
"the Bhagirutti, and many other streams which feed the
"great rivers Ganges and Jumna. The river Nilum (or
"Jahnivi), which rises in Thibet in the district of Chungsa
"in Chaprang, penetrates the Himalaya, and joins the
"Bhagirutti or true Ganges. It is, in fact, the remotest
"source or feeder of the river Ganges. The Niti river,
"however (or Dhauli), is sometimes considered from its
"size and length of course to be the principal branch of
"the Ganges. The Niti pass extends along the banks of
"this river, and is estimated at considerably over 16,000
"feet elevation; the chasms of this gorge are stupendous,
"the river descending 7000 feet in seven miles. The
"Burrenda pass to the Sutlej is also over 15,000 feet;
"nevertheless, armies have crossed both these lofty passes
"into Gurhwal, and even entire tribes emigrating from
"the highlands of Middle Thibet have entered India by
"these lofty side doors."
From Tiri (or Srinugger) the ancient capitol of Gurh
wal to Barahat on the Bhagirathi, where the roads to
Jumnootri and Gungootri bifurcate, the ridges are clothed
with moroo oak. The cheer (pinus longifolia) commences
at Samsoo, and extends up to 5000 feet, as far as Jhala,
where box, yew, and cypress prevail. Here the river
bends suddenly east towards Gungootri. The great deo
dar forests, and the red (pencil) cedar extend twenty-four
miles, with fir and beech, also, up to the snow.
Many pleasant writers have described Gungootri and
Jumnootri, the sources of the two great sacred rivers.
They have often been visited; but although the author
has viewed the mountains which involve them, he has
never actually visited the spring heads.
Bunderpoosh or SoomAroo is the great mountain on
the slopes of which is found Jumnootri, where the head

Chapter 1.]

Gurhwdl, etc.

283

sprmgs of the Jumna originate; whilst Panch Purbut or
Roodroo Himala is held to be the mother mountain of
the Ganges, Kailds being a generic name for the Hindoo
Olympus dominating the entire group.
From a point near the junction of the Alaknanda and
Pindri rivers, on a range called, I think, Budrungah, I
once obtained a magnificent view of the panorama of
mountain indicated above. I had descended the Pindri
river, which bounds Gurhwal on the north, but here
turned aside back into Kumaon. The Budrungah ridge,
which overhangs the Karnali valley, covered with dense
forests, is said to be splendid shooting ground for bear,
jurrow, surrow, leopards, and even tigers; indications of
the presence of predatory animals were apparent on the
bark of trees on which the indentation of claws was ob
servable. We tried the hill for game, but only saw one
kakur deer; the near view of the snow, however, was
enchanting, and embraced an area of not less than two
hundred miles of snowy mountain peaks.

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XSS^er-

mmmgm

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m

No. 99— A DELL IN GURHWAL.

284 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
A friend of mine, to whom I am indebted for perusal
of most interesting journals, hereabouts, if I mistake not,
turned up the Alaknanda towards the Niti pass, which
he crossed by a previously unknown track on to the table
land of Thibet. He notes Gurhwal as a good place for
"gurjoo" or "burrul" (antelope barhal). The occurrence
of thar (an tharal) is also noted. I have not seen these
animals myself in the marches of Gurhwal, but no doubt
did not sufficiently seek for them. He afterwards, across
the axis, one day encountered a herd of nine wild yak
bulls ! (bos grunniens), three of which he bagged.
The "picturesque" was amply exemplified in the sur
passing grandeur of the near vicinity of these vast
altitudes crowned by eternal snow, and of the stupendous
gorges through which the head waters and feeders of the
great rivers Jumna and Ganges escape to the inferior
mountains, and so into the main streams of " Gungajee."
Gorges, 16000 or 18000 feet in sheer altitude, are not un
known in the north of Gurhwal; and the view of cloud-
capped peaks and rugged cliffs, lit up by the glory of the
sun through rifted cloud, is sublime in the extreme. The
scenery along the rivers of course teems with mterest:
roaring torrents, with cascades, rushing from amidst pas
toral mountain sides, or from amidst pine forests, in
many a rugged gadh or ravine, present themselves to the
upland traveller. Here, also, is the arena of some of the
most venerated fables of the Hindoo mythology — the
battle ground of the Gods and Assurs (Titans), and the
scene of the apotheosis of the five Pandaus, the heroes of
the Mahabarat. This is part of the vast Alpine amphi
theatre observable from the "snow seat" at Naini Thai.
Gurhwal, the "land of fortresses," with Kumaon, is
essentially the nidus of Hindooism, and all the traditions
and fables which cluster round the dawn of Vedantic

Chapter 1.] Gurhwal, etc 285
history are there localized. These fables are so well
known to oriental scholars and the public that they need
scarcely be noticed here. An extract from a work of
"fiction founded on fact" — "Tales of the Pandaus" — may,
perhaps, however, prove of some interest, as tending to
illustrate the marches of Gurhwal towards the snows.
I would premise that the Lake of Bhimtal — presently
to be mentioned — is supposed to owe its origin to
"BHIMA, THE PANDAU."
Let us follow Bhfma into the snowy solitudes of Kailas, and
the caverns of Alaknanda, where dwell the spirits of the wilder
ness : daemons both good and evil, whose struggles for ascendancy
in man's mikrocosm form the burden of many a Hindoo Veda and
Shastr. On the banks of the river Kali-Gunduk or Surjoo, which
flashes through the green forests of these regions in silver and in
foam, had the Pandau's great ancestor Kama — himself an exile
— dwelt and wandered with Sita, his beloved spouse, ravished
from him by the giant Rawun of Singhala, as has been related in
the Ramayana, and elsewhere in the slokes of the bards. Bhima
was inspired by the memory of his misfortunes ; and in his speech
to the assembled warriors narrated the idyl of the fair Sita and
of the hero Rama.
Bivouacked in the forest of Tupobun (Tupasiaban) — grove of
lamentation — where the sad Rama had bemoaned his melancholy
loss with his dear loved brother, Lutchman, the soul of brave
Bhimsen (Bhima) glowed with pity, and inspired the hero to
noble deeds of arms against the giant posterity of the cruel rav-
isher, Rawun. Arjuna, too, wept bitter tears as he recalled the
story, and vowed revenge. His penance, is it not written in the
chronicles of the land of Braj !
Krishna, leaving his fair shepherdesses (gopies) in the land of
Braj, arrived to greet his friend Arjuna, and joined great Bhima
in arms at Gopie-eshur on Alaknanda stream.
Balarama, brother of Krishna— he who after, disgusted at the
war of kindred, retired from the field of Korau-Khet, and dwelt
on the banks of Saras vati river — was also there ; and, though the

286 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
Pandaus were preparing instant war against the Koraus, now he
stood in arms beside great Krishna, and did the mighty deeds
the chronicles and bards narrate.
At Deva-prayag, at the meeting of the waters, Bhima sacri
ficed to Kartikaya, the war-god, five hundred horses.*
On all the sacred river heads and teeruts did the Pandau host
do snan (religious bathing) and penance — " dhoop dheep naved "
of modern Brahminism. Need the march of the host be detailed?
Shall the warrior pen tell of ceremonial such as priestly craft has
in all ages sought to impose upon the lordly Khsatriyas?
As the Pandau invasion of Gurhwal is legendary — though
somewhat mythical as to its warlike character — shall we be
tempted to record the details? The pen of the stranger can
supply the chronicles scarcely known to the sons of the Rajpoots
themselves who live along those marches; but it were long to
relate them all : suffice to say they indicate the Pandaus' march
against the foe.
[Prom Haridwar — Siva's door or mouth — along the sacred
streams, as many as fifty places of snan or bathing invite the
modern pilgrim to his religious duties. I give those of the
pilgrimage to Budrinauth as an example : —
CI), The pilgrimage begins at Khun-khul, where was the pal
ace of King Khun, an ally of the Pandaus in this invasion ; (2),
at Haridwar the mighty Gunga issues from between the mountains
Nil and Bhil, on to the plain, where the footstep of Hari is seen
near to Tupobun ; (3), at Rudra-prayag — the meeting place of
the eleven deities of the Hindoo Swerga — the pilgrims fast and
bathe ; and, after worshipping the cow, gird up their loins and
adjust their dress for the mountain journey ; (4), again they bathe
at Deva-prayag, the junction of the Bhagirathij" and Alaknanda

* Probably by the aswamedha sacrifice, which has been supposed to
be an emblematic dedication of horses to Kartikaya.
+ The pre-eminently sacred rivers of India are: (1), the Godavery;
(2), the Ganges ; (3), the Bhagirathi ; (4), the Sarasvati. The Alaknanda
means the "river from afar on high," but it is not included amongst the
pre-eminently sacred streams. The reverence of Hindoos for the streams
or waters tributary to the Ganges does not extend further north than

Chapter 1.] Gurhwdl, etc. 287
waters; (5), " Goopta-Gunga," the hidden or cavernous river,
where the gods themselves come and perform snan; (6), on through
the mountains of bheek (aconite), where the poison plant — sacred
emblem of Siva, the destroyer — grows freely ; the pilgrims, their
heads muffled in their cloaks, rush onwards over the hills to (7),
Kedarnauth, where a temple, and flaming springs and holy rocks
abound ; here the pilgrims cast rings, bangles, necklaces, and flowers
to Siva ; (8), Gopie-eshur — sacred to Krishna, who here arrived,
leaving his gopies in the land of Braj — on to the head waters of
Alaknanda, to (9), Peepulkoss, and (10), Garoodgunga, the stream
where sacred stones — charms proof against serpents — are found,
hence the exclamation " Garoor, garoor," made by the Hindoos
on seeing snakes; (11), Jdsimut, the cooking place, sacred to
Hanuman, the Monkey-Deity; (12), Vishnugunga ; (13), Kal-
liankote ; (14), Wakimut ; (15), Budrinauth, where six minor
places of snan are found ; to (16), Bussoodara, on the Alaknanda
stream, where the pilgrimage terminates. The whole may, per
haps, represent the course of the Pandaus' march in their invasion
of Gurhwal, 1368 b.c, and I shall so assume it. J
The Pandau army marched
from Ke.dar-khund — now called
Dehra-Dfin — to Gunga's

sacred stream. Crossing

No. 100— A DISTANT VIEW OF KAILAS.

the spring head of the Jumna, nor further south than one teerut on the
Gunduk, in Nepal, where the sacred stones called Salik-Ram, and grains
of gold, are found.

288 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
the Sewaliks, great Yudisthir camped at Nagsidh, on the holy hill,
there to meet the foe should the Koraus haply attack the rear of
brave Bhima's army. Afterwards, when Bhima had destroyed
the foe, he ascended the Alaknanda's mystic stream to Budri-
nauth and Kedernauth, in the holy land of Ootera-khoond, even
to the sacred peaks of Gungootri, Jumnootri, and to Bhagirathi's
sacred spring head.*
A few notes on Gungootri and Jumnootri, with itiner
aries — given in an appendix — must complete these few
notes on Gurhwal. A distant view of Kailas is given.

* Although the march of the Pandaus may be regarded as mythic, yet
in fact the natural features of the country are fairly depicted where the
symbolical element does not obscure them.

( 289 )

CHAPTER 2.— KUMAON.
The Approaches to Kumaon — Naini Thdl — Game — The
Kurndh Valley — The Kumaon Lakes — Tigers at
Rajgah — Almora — Anecdotes of Sport and Travel
in East Kumaon-— Legends — The "Spectre of the
Brocken" — Bhagesir — The Surjoo — Mahaseer again
— Down the Pindri river to the Alaknanda — Home
by Gwdrihdth and Bdnikhit — Farewell to Kumaon.
THIS brings us into Kumaon — the "land of the
tortoise" — in which my experiences have been
considerable, though somewhat restricted as to sport. I
have, however, visited it on two occasions, and have
roamed into most parts of the country, but as regards
game, I must trust to the able pen of a friend who has
already assisted me, and I will insert a note on "Sport in
Kumaon," in an annexe to this chapter.*
There are several approaches to Kumaon from the
plains: we approached it by the Ranibagh route, and were
caught by a terrible storm in the Terai whilst passing
through the Saul forests. The lightning, accompanied by
torrents of rain was really appalling; and it was with diffi
culty I obtained even partial shelter for our "gharry"
(carriage) in the dark and drenching night.
Hereabouts — at Huldwani — some interesting episodes
of the great mutiny of 1857 occurred, in which my friend
C. R. and his Goorkhas played a conspicuous part.
Naini Thai (6,410) is the first point the traveller gener
ally makes for, and its game preserve is represented by
the Kurnah valley, in the upper ravines of which a good
* M.-Genl. Sir Campbell C. Ross, K.C.B. TJ

290 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
many goorul and other game used to be found. I have
seen them there myself, but did not hunt them.
» Leopards abound, and often seize dogs: herds of Han-
uman apes may also be met with, who, with bold sprmgs,
throw themselves from tree to tree, crashing through the
foliage. These apes are migratory from the plains of
India in summer, and they ascend the hills as high as
10,000 feet elevation. A smaller monkey (rhesus) is also
found in these woods. Kakur — the barking deer — also
can be occasionally heard amidst the woods which clothe
the hills overhanging the lake.
Naini Thai (lake) contains a few mahaseer, and, "as
evening shadows fall," a boat may often be observed under
the "Smugglers' Rock," containing a British angler en
deavouring, with the indomitable perseverance of the true
Piscator, to lure the finny prey. As night falls, a few
lamps, flitting about the fashionable end of the lake, near
the club house, may be also noted, producing a fairy scene
as they disperse and row homewards across the lake in
many directions.
The calcareous spar which tops the clay slate rocks
and greenstone trap, together with certain hot sulphur
springs on its broken margin, would lead one to the
conclusion that Naini Thai lake is of volcanic origin.
The mahaseer lie under the Smugglers' Rock, near the
centre of the lake, where a shallow spot — a submerged
apex — approaches the surface; this may be observed
from the surrounding heights shining in the depths with
emerald hues.
The visitor leaving Naini Thai towards Ranikhe't, de
scends from the circumjacent ridge into the Kurnah valley
by a path descending through bansh oak, firs, and rhodo
dendrons, whose undergrowth comprises raspberries and
cranberries, into the valley of the C6si, or Kosila. This

Chapter 2.]

Kumaon, etc.

291

somewhat shallow stream rises near Byjnauth in a bed of
kdsi grass (whence the name), passes under the Almora
hill, and meets the Ramgunga about halfway down the
Kurnah valley. It used to contain fine mahaseer, but
about the year 1859 most of the fish in the river were
killed by hail, which fell in such torrents as to choke the
lateral feeders of the Cosi, whose channel was thereby
filled with such a vast influx of hail that the fish perished.
Below Naini a series of lakes, of which Bheem Tal is
chiefest, subtend the pastoral ridges of the first ranges.
I was enabled to visit them, and present, as typical, a
sketch then made of "Mulwun Thai." This is a remark
able instance of a lake formed by a landslip within the
memory of man.* At the point where the Kulsa river
enters the lake — occupied by the boat in the sketch

No. 101— MULWUN TAL, KUMAON.

Vol. I., "Highlands of India," page 83.

u2

The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
given — the author has caught a nice basket of small ma
haseer about sunset, in the "gloamin'."
Between Naini Thai and Almora is found Rajgdh, on a
wooded ridge, clothed with oak, where the great tiger
hunt described in the annexe to this chapter took place.
Tigers are often found here: they follow the herds from
the low grazing lands till they disperse to the Kumaon
villages. Being then unable to procure their accustomed
prey, they become dangerous to man.
Having arrived at Almora, which is situated on a some
what bleak bare plateau of micaceous schist — approached
by a long zigzag climb — I made it my head-quarters from
which to explore Kumaon, and from it as a centre I in
fact made several trips about the country. First to the
eastern frontier to the native posts of Pithoraghur and
Loharghat. I proceeded by the Bhinsur ridge and Seul
to Pithoraghur, thence along the Surjoo to Loharghat
and Champavat, the ancient capitol of Kdli- Kumaon;
back by Raikot and the Narauli ridge. This supplied a
certain knowledge of the lay of the country, and enables
me to introduce a few anecdotes of game and sport,
though I myself met with but few adventures worthy of
notice. Glancing through my journal I notice a few entries,
suggestive, but which would take overlong to particularize.
I observe notes as to quartz and screw pines* — a "glorious
walk through the Naula forest, at a general elevation of
7000 feet — a sacred grove of nedza pines, in whose dark
* This is a tree of extraordinary character, inasmuch as it acts as its
own executioner, by some unexplained action screwing its own head off !
and it is a remarkable fact that even after it is cut down and sawn into
planks, even then the action goes on, and the timber warps and twists
to such an extent that when used as rafters it has been known to push
the roof of a house off ! This extraordinary fact requires scientific ex
planation, which, to my knowledge, has never yet been afforded.

Chapter 2.] Kumaon, etc. 293
shades an interesting temple lurks;" on to the Surjoo.
At the bridge below the junction, the stream ramifies
into several channels, with islands holding game. We
threw a fly in the river with poor success; a few small
mahaseer alone rewarded our efforts; the largest four
pounds only, caught with a spoon, either here or lower
down the Sardah near to where the Ramgunga joins it,
forming a picturesque promontory, surrounded by game-
holding forests : a view of this valley in mist is presented.

No. 102-r«£ VALLEY OF THE RAMGUNGA IN MIST.
It was hereabouts that my friend, C. R, whilst playing
a large mahaseer, was intruded on by a bear. He called
to his Goorkha henchman for his rifle, but the bear had
taken the hint, and made off before C. R. could tackle
him. All along the Surjoo (or Sardah), from this to Lohar
ghat, is a dense forest full of all sorts of game — tigers,
leopards, bears, jurrow (samber), kakur, pheasants — and I
have heard of wild dogs (canis primaevus), whose habit of
hunting in packs has probably formed the foundation for
the legend of a "spectre," a sort of oriental "Hearn the
Hunter," who is said to haunt this region, and who may

294

The Highlands oj India. [Sections V. & VI.

sometimes be heard cheering on his pack along the crest
of the mountain in the pale moonlight. It was here also
along the flashing waters of Surjoo that Rishyasringa,
"Son of the Doe," in guise of a silver stag, is fabled to
have led Nakoula, the fifth Pandau, into the caverns of
Gaurinath, and there lulled him to sleep in Fairyland.*

No. 103-RISHYASRINQA, THE SILVER STAG.

Beyond the river the further ascent is through interest
ing ground called Seul — the garden of East Kumaon, and
the arena of an incursion from old Nepal. We reach
Pithoraghur — a fine, rather open, rolling valley of 5,600
feet elevation. Leopards abound here. I heard of one
which got into the peas in the commandant's garden,
whence it could not and would not be dislodged.
From this point we marched down the valley of the
Surjoo, passing the above named forests, to Loharghat,
a place with several tea estates. There the vision of a
* See "Tales of the Pandaus," page 108.

Chapter 2.]

Kumaon, etc.

295

fine energetic lady — the wife of a military planter —
greeted us in jackboots, in which the chatelaine was wont
to perambulate her property in the rains. On to Cham-
pavat, the ancient capitol of Kumaon, containing ruins
of some interesting temples. Good grazing ground about
here, with many cattle and sheep. Below this, towards
the Terai, all the usual game of the low country is found,
and the presence of wild elephants was also indicated by
large holes or pitfalls made to capture them, now in dis
use and overgrown with jungle, into which the unwary
sportsman is liable to fall.

No. lOi-THE VALLEY OF THE SARDAH OR SURJOO.
Both Pithoraghur and Loharkote are, or were, Goorkha
recruiting depots.
We returned to Almora over the mountains. Many
interesting temples — often in groves of pine — dot this
tract; and its picturesque pine-clad, though somewhat
contracted ridges, are noteworthy. They hold some game,
but we had not time to beat it out. The cover was good
at various points, and, in fact, game has been killed there
by the sporting community of Almora and by the Goor
kha soldiers of the outposts in our service, amongst whom

296 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
an innate love of sport exists and reveals itself. I have
heard many interesting traits of Goorkhas from the
friend who has kindly assisted me with his (unrivalled)
experiences of this district, in which he commanded the
Pithoraghur Goorkha recruiting depot several years;
amongst them their habit of praying to appease the
manes of wild beasts they have killed. He mentions
one instance of a grand poojah (or pray) over a dead
leopard! Returned to Almora, I from it as centre made many
rides about the country of Kumaon, during one of which,
whilst riding along the Bhinsur ridge, I encountered (for
the second time in my life) the "Spectre of the Brocken."
Let not my reader be surprised: such is, doubtless, the
spectrum or reflection of oneself projected on to a bank
of mist, exaggerated to gigantic size under particular
incidence of the sun's (or other) rays through a rift in
the cloud or a gap in the mountain as a funnel. In the
case I allude to the gigantic figure stalked along the
ridge parallel to me. This apparition is doubtless akin
to that of the "Flying Dutchman!" the base of that
grand old sea legend being no doubt a form of "mirage."
On the other occasion I have alluded to as having had
the pleasure of meeting this interesting spectre, the
gentleman presented himself vis-a-vis to me on emerging
from an open door (of the mess) at Darjeeling, behind
which a brilliantly lighted room caused the spectrum of
my own figure to be projected on to a bank of dense mist:
in this case the focus of the figure was apparent. Very
terrible in seeming were these gigantic apparitions ! and
one may well realize how they might appal the "un
tutored mind" of the peasant of the Hartz.
The wild grassy slopes around Almora are a special
feature of that place, and have a beauty all their own.

CnAFrER 2.] Kumaon, etc. 297
Here I have observed glow worms on the calm autumn
evenings, and indications of the lumination arising from
the yotes muti — the luminous grass — already alluded to
are sometimes observable about Almora. It emits a pale
green light, scarcely attributable to phosphorescence, and
not allied in any way to Will o' the Wisp, — a somewhat
rare thing in India according to my experience.
I have alluded to Bhage'sir as a fishing station on the
Surjoo river.* Here it was that the hundred-and-twenty-
pound mahaseer was said to have been caught; and I can
believe it, having myself seen floating about in the clear
water near the town, a fish "as big as a baby" (as the
guide put it), and which must, in fact, have been near one
hundred pounds in weight, f
At Bhage'sir are some very remarkable temples, said to
have been built at the rate of one per diem for a year by
a certain raja. By this there should be three hundred
and fifty or more; and I daresay there may be eighty or
so extant, some mere shrines of a few feet in height.
At Surmesir the tea interest is represented by the
great estate of Kousdnie; well known, by name, to all
consumers of Indian teas ! Aya-Tolla is another fine tea
estate in the close vicinity of Byjnauth, where I observed
specimens of the "butter tree" in full bearing.
I had ridden out to Bhdge'sir from Almora, by the
Kraselling pass, thirty miles across the watershed of the
Surjoo and Cosi, from whence I proceeded up the river
towards the Pindri glacier, but only got part of the way.
However, I viewed it from high ground near Kup-Kdt or
* The Surjoo or Sardah is called Kaligunga in Lower Kumaon, but
the name reappears in Oude, in the plains of India, where, however, it
is also called Gogra. It rises under the peaks of Panchchooli, in Gurh
wal. This is a pre-eminently sacred stream, its banks being the arena
of the abduction of Sita, and the romantic fables of the Ramayana.
t See foot note, page 5.

298

The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.

Ldbha. Cheetul (spotted deer) were seen on this track,
an unusual thing so high up in the mountains.
Time pressing, I had to return, and after turning off by
Byjnauth and Gwaldum, descended the Pindri river to a
point near its junction with the Alaknanda.
On reaching the valley of the Pindri by this route,
one leaves the fertile valleys and terraces of Lower Ku
maon and of the Cosi, and enters on the bolder mountain
scenery of the borders of Gurhwal. Groves of oak and
chestnut, with willows along the river; hornbeams and
other forest trees are passed; whilst Alpine flowers such
as anemones, columbines, melilot, with campanulas, bal
sams, and the blue mountain poppy higher up, are found.

No. 105— THE PINDRI GLACIER.

Morinda and roi* fir trees clothe the heights which align
along and above the Alaknanda, which joins the Pindri

* Hoi is the red pencil cedar. Morinda (abies pindro) has been known
to attain the height of two hundred feet with a diameter of five feet.
This magnificent tree is mostly found at a higher altitude than this in
dicated, and more on the Bhagirathi than Alaknanda. Hazel nuts are
also found along this tract.

Chapter 2.]

Kumaon, etc.

299

on the confines of Kumaon and Gurhwal in a turbid
glaucous-yellow flood, emerging from high cliffs of grey
argillaceous schist. The roaring of its waters may be
heard far above the junction. We fished along the
Pindri, but the turbid snow water seemed dead: we
caught nothing. "Lulled by the wild music of the
stream, its deep and hollow murmurs," we here stayed
several days and tried the hills for game; we then turned
off back towards Ranikhet and East Kumaon, across the
Buddungdh mountain and Karnooli forest.
I have already mentioned (page 284) the truly sublime
view of the peaks involving the sources of the holy
streams from the summit of the Singooli pass, whence
also one descends on to the road leading to Lobur and
Gwarihath. Here we enter on a fertile tract of country,
studded with several tea estates. I take up my journal,
and see we crossed the Ramgunga — there are several in
Kumaon — which here takes a long sweep or bend of
twenty miles, emerging from a lake called Ghdri-Th&l.
We saw a wolf on the road near Gwarihath, which we
reached at noon. This was nearly the only game — ex
cept a kakur deer — we met in these marches. At the
bungalow here we noted a splendid Puddam tree (a
Judas tree I think), one mass of fine pink blossom — a
noteworthy specimen of a flowering tree !

No. 106-ALMORA, FROM SITOWLIE.

300

The Highlands of iV^m. [Sections V. & VI.

At Ranikhe't a British regiment was cantoned. This
is a fine plateau, where space might be found for several
more regiments. Here we have regained a centre of
civilization, and can adopt the alternative routes of the
Cosi (Kosila) or of the Kurnah valley, on our return to
headquarters at Almora. I have travelled by both, but
on this occasion we rode down the hill across the Cosi by
Hawilbagh and Sitowlie. The sketch No. 106 represents
the approach by this route to Almora.
Shortly after this I had to leave Kumaon en route to
England. Leaving Almora with my family in the late
autumn of 1875, we travelled down the valley of the
Kosila by Kurnah to Naini-Thal, Kalidoongi, and so to
the plains of India; bidding a long farewell to Kumaon
and its lovely lakes and mountains.

No. 107— A "BIT" OF CHAMPAVAT.
(The Ancient Capital of Kumaon.)

Annexe.] Kumaon, etc. 301

ANNEXE TO CHAPTER 2.

The following notes of sport in the Kumaon hills should be pre
faced by the remark that owing to the presence of a Goorkha
regiment, the men of which are always most determined hunters,
and the beautiful scenery, fine climate, and variety of game
forming attractions to English sportsmen nearly as great as
those of Cashmere, the sport has much deteriorated to what it
was forty or fifty years ago. To the determined shikari, how
ever, who takes nothing for granted, and searches for game for
himself, a good deal of sport is still to be met with in the more
unfrequented parts of the district, especially on the steep forest-
covered slopes above the rivers and towards the plains.
The sport in the higher snow regions is much inferior to that
of Cashmere or Ladak. There are no ibex, and big game is
scarce. But in the eastern and southern part of Kumaon there
are many samber, kakur (muntjac), goorul, and low down towards
the plains of the terai, spotted deer. Pheasants are everywhere,
of the three kinds common to the lower Himalayas, viz. — kalidge,
koklass, and cheer. Leopards are numerous, and near Pithora
ghur are very large and dangerous, while near every river — where
the jungle is heavy — there is generally a hill tiger in the neigh
bourhood. Wild hogs are plentiful, and fortunately supply the
principal part of the tiger's larder, while the langoor or large
grey monkey does that of the leopard.
Tigers are frequently met with 6000 or 7000 feet above the
sea, — for instance one generally takes up his quarters on the
Gagur pass between Naini Thai and Almora, and after a time
becomes a perfect nuisance. These tigers accompany the large
droves of cattle from their winter grazing down in the terai to
this point in their annual spring migrations, and it is here that
the droves are broken up and dispersed to their respective villages
for summer. At this elevation and distance from a river, there
are few wild hogs or deer, and the tiger is reduced to man eating
to satisfy his appetite, and takes stray natives off the road
through the forest, which is very heavy on the mountain.

302 The Highlands of India. [Sections V. & VI.
In 1857 a man-eater was very troublesome and carried off
several men, and was so dangerous that a Mr. Wheler, a tea
planter, was simply besieged by him. At last, a heavy reward
being offered for him, six Goorkhas of the 66th Goorkhas — now
1st Goorkha Light Infantry — volunteered to shoot him. One of
them, Assah Goorung, was the crack shot of the regiment, and I
lent him a rifle. About a week afterwards they brought the tiger
bodily in and put him down in the verandah of my house. It
appeared that the six Goorkhas, on arrival at the place, agreed to
go in extended order through the forest, engaging to close in to
the assistance of any man firing or shouting. Assah Goorung,
who belonged to my company, described what happened as
follows : — " I was passing, step by step, cautiously through the
jungle, which was cut up by precipitous ravines, when I suddenly
saw the tiger about ten paces in front of me, with his head be
tween his paws, his glaring eyes fixed fiercely on mine. For an
instant I felt a numb sensation of paralysis, but stepping behind
a tree, the tiger never moving or taking his eyes from mine, I
collected my nerves, and thinking to myself ' your life or mine,'
shot him right between the eyes ! He rolled over and over down
the steep ravine, tearing the earth with his claws, but uttering no
sound, and lay dead at the bottom of the ravine." Such was the
plucky little hero's account. The other Goorkhas, hearing the
shot, came running in, and found him standing with his rifle
butt on the ground. There is no braver man on earth than the
Goorkha. The fishing in the Surjoo river, at its junction with the Ram
gunga at Ramaissur, is excellent. The mahaseer running to a
good size, and taking salmon flies well.
Some miles further down, the united rivers join the "Kalee"
at Puchaisur, and form the river " Sardah." Here the fishing is
truly gigantic; fish of seventy and eighty pounds being com
mon, but as they do not take the fly the fishing was not to my
taste. With regard to the small shooting of Kumaon, the red-legged
partridge is very common, wherever the hills are rocky and tol
erably free from jungle, but shooting them is very hard work.
Woodcock, in the winter, are not uncommon ; and quail plentiful
in April and September, in their annual migrations.

Annexe.] Gurhwdl and Kumaon. 303
[The above note was kindly written for me by my friend Major-Genl.
Sir C. C. Ross, K.C.B., whose sporting experiences in this particular
district have been almost unrivalled, he having been for several years
commandant of the Goorkha recruiting dep6t at Pithoraghur.]

APPENDIX I
(Pages 282 to 288.)

At Gungootri — lat. 31° north, by long. 79° east — ordinarily re
puted the source of the Holy Ganges, the Bhagirathi is found to
issue from a vast mass of solid frozen snow about three hundred
feet thick, the accumulation of ages. The stream issues from a
low arch fringed with hoary icicles. The Great Ganges, at its
birth here, is only twenty-seven feet wide and twelve inches in
depth. After winding through the Himalayas a few miles it
joins — or is joined by — the Jahnivi and Dauli, each of which,
as contributing a larger volume of water might claim the honour
of being the chief spring-head. Further on, at Tiri, it receives the
Alaknanda. The united river then emerges from the Himalayan
chain at Tupobun, a few miles above Haridwar, eighty feet wide,
with a discharge of 8000 cubic feet per second.
At Jumnootri — lat. 30° 50' — the Jumna in like manner emer
ges from a mass of snow forty feet thick, under which boiling
springs rise through crevices in the granite, flowing with much
ebullition, and deposit a ferruginous cement. They form a slender
stream only three feet wide and a few inches deep.
At Kalsa-ghdt — lat. 30° 30' north — the Jumna is joined by
the Tonse, a far larger stream, whose name is, however, merged
in the better known but smaller river. The Jumna issues from
the mountains near Fyzabad, twenty-six miles north of Saharun-
pore, where it is deep and a thousand yards wide.

304

The Highlands of India. [Seotions'V. & VI.

APPENDIX II.

No. 108— THE CAMP OF THE PANDAUS.
[Historic fable relates that Gurhwal and Kumaon were first
occupied by the Pandaus, whose descendant, Kuttool Rajah, was
defeated, and his progeny destroyed by Anooh Pal of Nepal, who
came by way of Seul, and at Bhagesir defeated the Gurhwalies,
advanced and planted his standard at Budrinath, where he set
up a stone pillar to commemorate thd event.]

XX.— SIR JUNG BAHADOOR AND WIFE (NEPAL).
(From a photograph).

( 305 )

SECTION VII.
NEPAL, AND THE BASINS OF THE
KARNALI, GUNDUK, AND COSL
Western Nepal — The visit of Prince Waldemar of
Prussia to Khatmandoo, 1845 — The mystic city
"Alaka" — An Adventure in Eastern Nepdl.
ON this section of my subject I have but slight
personal knowledge, and must restrict myself to
the reproduction of a sketch of the Nepal mountains,
from Loharghat. Non cuivis hominum licet est adire
Corinthum! I was never able to visit the country, except in a very
partial manner, to be presently mentioned. I must trust
to the experience of others; and in this matter I will
avail myself of the records of a traveller — a foreigner,
but little known as an author — with whom, however, I
once was brought into contact on an interesting occasion.
I allude to Dr. W. Hoffmeister, travelling physician to
H.R.H. Prince Waldemar of Prussia, in whose suite he

No. 109-THE NEPAL MOUNTAINS FROM LOHARGHAT, KUMAON.

306 The Highlands of India. [Section VII.
visited Nepal in the year 1845; afterwards, at the close
of that year, finding a soldier's grave on the field of
Moodkhee. I indent on his account of this visit.
The party leaving Segowlie on the 5th February, 1845
— passing through a wild moorland region, overgrown
with tall hard grass — reached the frontier village, Bis-
sowli, at sunrise, the snowy "summits of the Himalayas,
"gloriously illuminated by the radiant glow, appeared in
"the north-east as if rising immediately from the vast
"plain." Beyond this, one enters the Nepal border forests
containing peepul (ficus indica), bauhinia, and dalbergia,
with an occasional erythrina (coral tree). The magnifi
cent Saul forest is here sparsely intermingled with
acacia of several varieties; also bombax, cratoeva, feronia,
etc. Here the roads are beds of streams — dry in winter,
raging torrents in summer — and the terai is entered,
which the malaria or ha'wal, supposed by the natives to
be the poisonous breath of serpents, renders uninhabitable
during the summer season. The mimosa (acacia catechu)
is here found. Here one enters the dhoon, or long ele
vated valleys interspersed between the te"rai and first (or
Lamadongra) range, the channels of the streams inter
secting being filled with fragments of granite and schistose
mica, but the hills themselves are of clay, sand, mica, and
gravel. On the lower slopes of these hills is the home of
the shoria or Saul forests.
So the party passed up into the valley of the Rapti,
where an escort of Nepalese troops arrived to do them
honour. Passing through the Cheria-Ghat, they followed
the course of the Rapti, here a clear and rapid stream,
not over broad; "its banks clothed with beautiful bushes
"of justicia, leea, phlornis, and thefbeautiful bauhinea
"scandens (climbing mountain ebony)" and dolichos, climb-
"ing in elegant festoons among the leafy summits of the

Section VII. ]

Nepdl, etc.

307

"graceful acacias, etc." From Hetania to Bheemphed is
twenty miles. At Siswaghurri, where a strong fortress
crowns the conical hill above the river, pinus longifolia
is first seen.
At Cheesaghurri — 5,818 feet above the sea — one meets
the noble forests which clothe the northern sides of the
mountains over the pass; "our admiring attention being
"particularly attracted by the dark crimson flowers of the
"rhododendrons, which, growing to the height of about
"twenty feet, spread over the northern side of every
"mountain top in the Siswaghurri range. Besides this
"gorgeous tree, I remarked here two species of oak
"growing to- the height of forty or fifty feet, the 'bansh'
"(quercus semicarpifolia) and the bhalath, both superb
"trees. Here the travellers first obtained a view of the
"beautiful valley of Nepal proper. A plain of no great
"extent appears near the horizon to the north, while in
"the foreground a labyrinth of rocky glens, all originating
"in the steep acclivity of the north-eastern side of the
"Lamadongra range, stretches to the open country below.
"A shady and pleasant path through the thick forest
"brought us by a descent of three thousand feet to the
"margin of the Tanna-Khani's clear waters, near which
"the wood ceases. Tall ferns — the first we had seen on

No. 110— LAKE NEAR G0RUCKP00R.

V2

308 The Highlands of India. [Section VII.
"the continent of Asia — nearly conceal the numerous
"small brooks which gush down the rugged declivity.
"The masses of stone which here present themselves —
"grauwacke-schist and a loose clay slate, — forming a nar-
"row and indented defile, control the course of the river,
"which winds its way in a thousand turnings through
"these laminated rocks."
Here the traveller enters a well cultivated fertile
country, every inch of it improved, even to the foot of
the distant mountains, and terraced fields laid out on the
steep acclivities; whilst the freshest vernal green — the
young shoots of barley — gladdens the wearied sight.
"How delightful, after the tedious and arid plains of the
"Indian lowlands, to enjoy the refreshing, prospect of
"fertile and verdant fields, and instead of the sultry at-
"mosphere and burning dust of the banks of the Ganges
"to breathe the mild and elastic air of these mountain
"recesses ! Berberis, vitex primus, daphne, and luxuriant
"creepers, with violets and potentillas, in full flower, were
"shining forth from the velvety carpet in the humid moss
"as we emerged from the 8,500 feet (easy) pass across the
"mountain into the celebrated valley of Khatmandoo."
The path descends from the Chandragiri mountain as
much as 4000 feet, very steeply, into the valley. The
capitol stands at the junction of the B6gmutty and
Bishmutty in the valley, watered by many streams tribu
tary to the Bdgmutty, which, flowing to the south, forces
its way through the lofty ramparts of the Chandragiri.
This breach in the south-west barrier forms the alter
native approach to the valley proper. The temple of
Sambhunath is on the left, amidst a grove of beautiful
trees. In the horizon the "glorious snow-capped peaks
"of Dhajabung and Gossainthan tower to the skies, in
"middle distance below them are the lofty terraced banks

Section VII.] Nepdl, etc. 309
"of the B6gmutty, which form the background immedi-
"ately behind the resplendent roofs of the many temples
"of Khatmandoo."
Here our traveller pauses in his graphic description of
the valley, and his attention is taken up by the display
of the reception of the Prince by Martabar Sing, the
minister and generalissimo of Nepal, in whose suite,
moreover, appeared Jung Bahadur, a kinsman of the
rajah's, "a man of very intelligent countenance; by far
"the most educated and agreeable of them all," of whom
the Anglo-Indian world has ample knowledge, as himself,
shortly after the period referred to, becoming general
issimo and — except in name — king of Nepal, and to the
end of his life the staunch ally of the British. Major
Lawrence — afterwards Sir Henry — Resident of Nepal,
was also present.
The author enters into a description of the inhabitants
of Nepal, and quotes Hamilton, as follows : "All that have
"any pretension to be considered aboriginal, are by their
"features clearly marked as belonging to the Tartar or
"Chinese race, and have no sort of resemblance to the
"Hindoos."* A picturesque description of the city of Khatmandoo
— amidst gardens of orange, plum, and cherry trees —
is given by our author, and some remarks on its quaint
architecture (brick built), and durable wood work; and
of the indestructible stone used, which is described as
"being found disposed in vertical strata in large masses
" — containing much lime and fine gravel, having a silky
"lustre — cutting well, and admirably resisting the action
"of the weather."

* On this head I would refer the reader to the corresponding section
of Vol. I. of this work, where — at pages 95-7 — some short account of
the inhabitants may be found.

310 The Highlands of India. [Section VII-
Pasupatinath, Handagong, and Bhatgong, are alluded
to as points of interest near Khatmandoo.
The party proceeded onwards vid Chitpoor, and across
the Kaulia pass, where again they re-entered forests con
sisting of erythrina, shorea, bauhinea, etc., with an
underwood of carissa and justicia, with bamboos, as one
neared the valley and mountain of Noyakot. This
mountain is the most pointed summit of a ridge which
rises towards the north — the Maha Mendeb. The palace
is surrounded by gardens. "The magnificent view of the
valley of the Trisoolgunga is the best reward which this
mountain offers to those who scale its heights; and its
temple structures, with their gilded roofs, form an incom
parable foreground."
Our author proceeds: — "Towards evening we set out
"on our toilsome march, retracing our steps towards the
"capitol. Before the sun had sunk to rest, we had gained
"a commanding height, from which we enjoyed a full
"view of Dharwala-Giri and Gossainthan bathed in
"burning tints by the deep effulgence of the parting orb.*
"The prospect of those thousands of ice-clad pinnacles,
"now glowing, now fading in every variety of brilliant or
"of exquisitely delicate hues, afforded us an enjoyment
"beyond the reach of comparison, but which left an im-
"pression that nothing can ever efface."
* Dwdlagiri (26,826), GossaintMn (24,700), and the vast mountain
Mahalu (27,800). The traveller is here also in presence of that lofty
peak diversely named Gauri-Sanke'r, Deodunga, Tsungau, or Mount
Everest, according as a Goorkha, a Nepalese Hindoo, a Thibethan, or
Englishman alludes to it. Its peak reaches the altitude of 29,002 feet,
being the loftiest in the known world. The Arun, a river with a trans-
nivean source, rises amidst these vast glaciers. The peak of Everest
can also be seen from Senchal and other parts in British Sikhim. .Fur
ther on a sketch of the true horizon, including these peaks, will be pre
sented. In Nepal we are in the presence of the highest peaks on earth.
Makalu has often been mistaken for Everest, being a far finer, and more
imposing mountain.

Section VII.]

Nepal, etc.

311

The author concludes with the account of a parting
tiger hunt at Segowli, not differing in any respect from
the tiger hunts we have all so often read of.
The above, together with a little personal experience
of Eastern Nepal, presently to be mentioned, must form
the only addendum to the corresponding section in Vol. I.
that I am able here to present to the reader.
In the absence of actual experience of this fine country
I will give an extract from a little work — "The Tales of
the Pandaus" — on the mystic city Alaka, which is fabled
to lie in Fairyland, along the axis of Kailas — the Hindoo
Olympus — either near the Ganges or else amidst the still
loftier knot of peaks alluded to in this chapter, and the
rivers which subtend them.
THE SONG OF ARJUNA.
There by the mountain claspt in loving arms
Alaka, city of the blessed lies :
Her bright feet bathed in Gunga's flood, she charms
With marvellous beauty e'en immortal eyes.
Thou, too, free rover, shalt her beauty prize,
And often wander to mine own dear town !
Nor shall sweet Alaka thy love despise,
But proudly wear upon her domes a crown
Of the pure drops of pearl thou pourest softly down.
And she has charms which nought but thine excel ;
High as thyself her airy turrets soar,
» • » »
And for thy lightnings in the midnight air,
Look in the maiden's eyes and own a rival there.
Unmatched is she for lovely girls who learn
To choose the flowers that suit them best, and bring
The varied treasures of each month in turn

No. Ill— THE SNOWY RANGE, showing the true horizon from Mount Senchal,
near Darjeeling.
Everest Makalu Kanchanjhanga
(29,002). (27,8X1). (28,178).

312 The Highlands of India. [Section VII.
To aid those charms which need no heightening :
The amaranth, bright glory of the spring—
The lotus gathered from the summer flood-
Acacias, taught around their brows to cling—
And jasmine's fragrant white, their locks to stud ;
And, bursting at the rain, the young kadumba bud.
» * » *
The tell-tale sunbeam of the morning throws
Upon the path each roving beauty chose.
Falls on some faded flower, some loosened zone,
A withered lotus or a dying rose ;
A bracelet which her haste forgot to close,
Here a dropt diadem of orient pearl,
The fond impatience of its mistress shows ;
And here the jasmine bud that deckt the curl,
Lying upon the grass, betrays the amorous girl.
0 beauties, worthy of that beauteous place,
That sweetest city which I know so well,
Where mine own brethren of ethereal race,
Blest with the love of those fair angels dwell
In homes too beautiful for tongue to tell !
Those homes by night a starry radiance fills
Shot from the jewelled flames where breathe the smell
Of roses, and, while melting music thrills,
They quaff the precious wine the heavenly tree distils. *
The personal experience alluded to above, consisted in
a short trip across the frontier from British Sikhim in
January, 1873. Being at this time commandant at Dar
jeeling, I had made it my duty during the cold season —
when the greater portion of the convalescents had rejoined
their regiments — to inspect the military frontiers, and — as
will be related in the next section — I had traversed nearly
the whole of British and Independent Sikhim.
On this occasion I was marching down the lower
road, when (from about frontier pillar No. 20 or 21) I took
the wrong track, and towards nightfall found myself at
Phikul, near Eldm, in Nepal, some seven or eight miles
from the British frontier. I had halted for midday meal
whilst my baggage progressed through the jungle. On
* From the "Messenger Cloud" of Kalidasa, translated by B. T. H.
Griffiths, Esq., M.A., Principal of the Benares College.

Section VII.]

Nepal, etc.

313

arriving at Phikul in the evening, I found it under dis
traint by an escort of Nepalese soldiers, a larger posse of
whom, with other Nepal functionaries, were drawn up on a
mound to receive the intrusive stranger. Things looked
threatening; especially as the "man in possession," a
truculent looking old Goorkha, had used the word "dtish-
man" (enemy). I saw I was in for it; so stepping briskly
in front of my shikaries and followers I politely saluted
the group, and tried to explain matters.
The cazi, or magistrate, was polite, but the truculent
old Goorkha's face never relaxed in the least; and again
I heard distinctly the ominous word "dushman" repeated;
whereupon I thought fit to change my manner, and as
suming jocularity, enquired whether any "ze'afut" (feast)
was ready for me, in return for the politeness of our
government in allowing Jung Bahadur to hunt across our
frontier. Upon this I observed the old Goorkha's face
relax, and knew that things were righting themselves.

No. 112— FORT AND VALLEY OF ELAM, from the Tongloo Ridge.
(Phikul in the distance.)

314 The Highlands of India. [Section VII.
Still my baggage was sequestrated. I thought it time to
try high handed proceedings, and called for pens, ink,
and paper, in view to addressing Colonel Goojerat Thappa,
the Nepalese commandant of Elam, a fort distant a few
miles. Having some official paper with me, I made this
despatch as imposing as possible; in it I informed Colonel
Thappa of the accident under which I had strayed across
the frontier, announcing my intention to pitch camp at
Phikul till noon next day, when, should I receive his
consent, I would pay my respects to him at Elam — a
point I wished much to see — otherwise I should at that
hour retire into British territory.
I observed a marked change in the manner of the
Phikul functionaries, and soon after — my baggage being
returned to me — pitched the tents, had dinner, and
"turned in," not, however, before my shikari, in a mortal
funk, had waited on me and urged the advisability of a
nocturnal flitting back to British ground. The poor devil
was, I suppose, afraid of reprisals at the hand of the Ne
palese for having been so imprudent as to conduct the
sahib across the frontier. Of course I did not listen to
such pernicious counsel, but waited till noon next day
according to my compact. No reply, however, came from
Colonel Thappa, a civilized man, who had been educated
at the Darjeeling college; he was, in fact, a nephew of
Sir Jung Bahadur. No doubt he was afraid of compro
mising himself by any communication with the foreigner;
but in the morning a noteworthy change in the attitude
of the officials was observable. A horse and a guard of
honour were provided, and any amount of supplies, but I
tuas escorted to the frontier! Here the guard took leave
of me, receiving at my hands a handsome douceur. The
cazi, also (a Lepcha), was most civil, and himself accom
panied me most of the way along some intricate ground,
cut up by ravines and water channels.

Section VII.] Nepal, etc. 315
I could not but consider the whole thing — an accident
on purpose some might call it — a curious episode, illus
trative of the extreme jealousy of the Nepal government
towards foreigners in those days. Had it not been for
my official position, nothing would have given me greater
pleasure than to have been captured and conveyed a
prisoner to Khatmandoo at the expense of the Nepalese
government. I recrossed the frontier near the source of the Mechi,
and "so home" to Darjeeling vid Rungbong, Mirig, and
Namsoo, where I camped on the banks of the Balasun.
Here I see I got one deer in the valley of the Balasun,
before starting in the early morning for Punkabarri, and
en route to Darjeeling ascended mount Senchal, called
the Chdttah (umbrella). See sketch No. 112. But this
more properly belongs to the ground to be treated of in
the next section — British Sikhim.

No. 113— The Source of the Mechi.

( 316 )

SECTION VIII.
DARJEELING AND SIKHIM.
(British and Independent.)
I now approach a section of my subject in which I feel
myself strong, having both in a private and official
capacity had ample opportunities of making myself ac
quainted with every part of this interesting hill country.
Passing by the details conveyed in the corresponding
section of Vol. I., I will now endeavour somewhat at
length to enter on the picturesque aspects of this lovely
land; a section of the "Highlands of India" which merits
notice as much as any scene of the "sublime and beauti
ful" it has fallen to my lot to view.
Having been in command of this district for two years,
I found myself during the intervening winter — owing to
the convalescent soldiers of the depot rejoining their
regiments during the cold weather — left nearly alone
with my staff during the portion of the year most suited
for travel. I accordingly availed myself of the oppor
tunity, not only to officially survey the frontiers of
British Sikhim, but to roam into every nook and corner
of this interesting country, partly in search of the pic
turesque, partly after game, which I have always found
an offset or adjunct of the natural features of Indian
lands. For convenience I will divide the subject into two
chapters — (1), on British Sikhim — (2), on Independent
Sikhim. I will refer chiefly to my journals, leaving the reader
to consult Vol. I, "Highlands of India," for all topographi
cal and other information about the country.

I^Bi

iftJ

Chapter l.] British Sikhim. 317
CHAPTER 1.
BRITISH SIKHIM.
Travels along tlie Frontier — Tongloo and the bamboo
forests on west — Peeps into Nepdl — Cat Bears (ail-
urus fulgens) — Singaleela spur — Blood-pheasants —
The Rummaum — The Kanjulia Outposts — Along
the Rungeet — Across the Teesta to Damsong plateau
— The ceded Bhootia doars — Game — Products —
Fishing in the Teesta — A strange Fish hooked —
Chinese Horses — A solitary Xmas — A Picnic at
Lebong — Glimpses of Kanchanjinga.
ON the 13th November, 1872, I rode out of Darjeeling
at eleven a.m., and proceeding along the Lepcha-
jugget road for about three hours, pitched camp at
Pokri, a pond in the forest. Here we saw a few pheasants,
several of which we bagged; distance about ten miles.
From this point we sent back our ponies.
Next day, passing by the semana or boundary pillar
No. 17, we turned to the north, and descended a steep
path near to the sources of the Little Rungeet. Here we
breakfasted. In the afternoon we ascended to a deserted
village under the Tongloo ridge. Here we halted for the
night; distance ten miles.
On the 15 th we reached the Tongloo plateau and ridge
by a long ascent of perhaps ten miles, and pitched camp
near the peak so prominently visible from Darjeeling,
which, as the crow flies, cannot be more than twelve or
fifteen miles across the valley, though nearly double that
distance by the road. At dark we lit a beacon fire and

318

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

fired two signal guns to apprize our friends in the station
of our arrival. The "springs," one mile short of Tongloo,
are said to be a good find for sim-kuckroo, (woodcock)
but I do not recollect that we flushed any there. The
weather was rather cloudy, but from the Tongloo ridge
a splendid view into Nepal is to be obtained. "Elam,"
with the entire valley of "Phikul," up to the Lamadongra
range, is visible hence. (See Illustration No. 112, last
section, page 313.)

No. Hi— KANCHANJINGA, from JuUapahar Cantonment, Darjeeling.
Our march next day — after turning the peak west of
Tongloo — led down into the vast bamboo forests which
clothe the sides of this mountain spur, and align along the
entire Nepal frontier from Singaleela to the sources of the
Mechi. They are all but inaccessible to man, as the trees
grow so close together one can hardly force his way be
tween them, and he would be a good woodman who could
"axe his way" even two miles during the day through the
dense labyrinth. The path is simply a narrow track cut
from pillar to pillar, and descends six miles to water from

Chapter 1.]

Brilish Sikhim.

319

the crest of the plateau above. On this march we heard
cat-bears (ailurus fulgens), a rare animal, scarcely found
in India beyond these forests. We tried to get a sight of
them, and followed them into the forest a few hundred
yards, but although we heard them in the trees close to
us — perhaps within twenty or thirty yards — we could
not quite catch a view of them in the dense foliage of the
bamboos. At the springs we shot two specimens of the
small olive wood-partridge peculiar to these forests.

^4]4:r '^
Mil A\ iiA^go^ra^" "0\

N0.115-KANCHANJINGA WITH PEMIANCHI MONASTERY, ETC., from Kullook.
Next day (17th) we made a short "Sabbath-day's
journey," and pitched camp under the hill of "Cheemia-
tamu." On the 18th, ascended Cheemia-tamu, and went alone;
the crest of the great spur past "Phallalong" — where the
Nepal, Sikhim, and British frontiers meet— about five
miles along the Singaleela spur, which leads up to Kan-
chinjanga. Here we saw blood-pheasants, moonal, and
musk-deer, with many traces of bears. We shot two or

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
three blood-pheasants. This mountain spur is clothed
with aconite (bheek) and crowned with fir.
On the 19th we halted and tried the hill for blood-
pheasants, which are peculiar to this particular mountain:
we managed to get four couple of this rare and beautiful
bird, which I have never encountered before in any of
my Himalayan wanderings; it seems a link between the
pheasant and the partridge.
Next day we commenced our downward or return
march to "Llamagaom," which is just below the zone of
Alpine forest, in which tons of fallen acorns lay perishing
on the ground. It occurred to me what a feast was here
for some of the herds of fat swine which one sometimes
encounters in the uplands of Bhootan, where that ani
mal is prized and educated, and not anathematized as in
India proper. It is apparently of the Chinese variety,
Crossed with the Hampshire breed a
could be inaugurated, pointing to an
available industry for
these regions if colon
ized by settlers of Euro
pean race.
In the forests above
the belt of oak we shot
some more pheasants;
my share being, I see,
two pheasants and one
partridge (olive). Mad
der grows freely below
the zone of forest, at the
first villages we passed,
as also millet. From
1 1 ^-Kumbaoorken, head Coolie (Bhootia), this tlle Bhootias brew
and the Dog "Tikdar." fae famous "mirwah" Or

and very fat.
splendid stock

Chapter 1.]

British Sikhim.

321

millet beer. All our coolies got drunk on it this day, and
could go no further than "Llamagaom," where accordingly
we pitched camp for the night, continuing our downward
journey next day. The coolies were still half-drunk, but
we got off by eight a.m., crossed the Rummaum at half-
past ten; on again at twelve to "Sumaimboong," where
we camped at five p.m., a long fatiguing ascent from the
Rummaum: — distance covered, fifteen miles.
At "Dunundun," a Lepcha village in Sikhim, across the
Rummaum, we observed "cardamon" gardens, also mad
der; pigs are there educated: we, in fact, saw a herd of
fine black hogs swim across the torrent whilst we our
selves were crossing by the primitive bamboo bridge
which spans the main stream of the Rummaum at this
point. Next day we marched by the Kanjulia outpost, along
the crest of the spur to Goke, where we found our ponies
and letters. In my jour
nal I observe the follow
ing entry: "Fine plateau,
"with friable soil; slop
ing from Kanjulia to
"Goke; adapted also
"strategically for a Euro-
"pean Military Colony;
"potatoes, cereals, mul-
" berry trees, etc." In
fact I viewed this par
ticular district, profes
sionally, with much
interest. Its resources
are considerable, and I
see I have incidentally
alluded to it inmyofficial

No. 117 — "Tempoo," a Lepcha Shikari.

W

322 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
report* as a favourable site for a "Military Colony" or
"Reserve (industrial) circle."
On the 23rd we rode up to Darjeeling (sixteen miles),
having, during our trip, completed a circuit of about one
hundred miles.
From this point I resumed my tour along the frontier
of British Sikhim on 16th December, and the first day
proceeded as far as the bridge over the Little Rungeet,
just above its junction with the Great Rungeet, which
forms the north boundary of British Sikhim. I remained
here a day, and was visited in camp by some friends.
We tried the fishing, but, except for one run, without
success. The weather was hot and "feverish" in this
low-lying jungle. I made a sketch of the mountains, as
viewed by moonlight, from this point, which I present
at the head of this chapter.
Next day I examined some points, and again tried the
fishing without result, so I marched, the same afternoon,
across the mountains into the main road below "Ging,"
and encamped at the Great Rungeet bridge; distance,
ten miles. This road turns, or rather crosses, the foot
of the "Tukvar" and "Lebong" spurs, through the woods.
19th: again I fished the river Rungeet all along its
course of six miles, to its junction with the Teesta. The
water was too clear for fishing, and I gave it up; but I
beheld on the banks of this stream some of the most
beautiful river scenery I have ever met with.
I viewed this locality with much interest. At the
junction of the rivers the "meeting of the waters" forms
a whirlpool. The travellers' rest-house is on the banks
above this point, and here accordingly I left my pony
and baggage, entrusting my rods to my syce "Soobah"
(whereby hangs a tale). Next morning I crossed the

* Page 114, Vol. I., "Highlands of India."

Chapter I. J

British Sikhim.

323

.

Jill SsaK

sons?, ther.

On (ne road to Damsont

Teesta on foot in progress
to " Kallinpong," eight
miles, and on to "Dam-
twelve miles fur-
This is a fine, and,
,in some respects, culti-
^ vated district, and I took
, some trouble to explore
it. "India-rubber, shell-
"lac, gypsum cropping
"out of hillsides, fertile
slopes, wheat, rice ; Llama
"schools; much cultivation; flora differs from Darjeeling;
"elevation, 6000 feet."
"Arrived early at Damsong; twelve miles; a fine plateau
"and slopes; defective water, only one well, and no reser-
"voir. Just this side of Damsong one traverses a fine
"open forest of lofty trees, wide apart- — the undergrowth
"holly and hybiscus; full of game; shot one pheasant and
"one hornbill en route."
Such I see is one of the economic notices in my
journal, and suggestive of colonization, which is also ad
vocated in my report, before referred to.
In these forests the two species of hornbill are found,
and their bark resounded through the woods. We shot
three, one pair of the smaller and one specimen of the
great Nepalese hornbill, which to this present day appear
stuffed in my hall. Strange beasts they are. They feed
on fruit and the flowers and succulent shoots of forest
trees, and are not carnivorous, as their gigantic beaks
would lead one to infer. These beaks also are very soft;
nevertheless, a wounded hornbill, on his back, is a for
midable looking object, and one to be carefully approached
in handling. We also got, in this forest, one very red
w 2

324

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

deer — I suppose a hog deer — -and quite a quantity of the
beautiful spangled pigeons, so plentiful in this district,
but not observed by me elsewhere.
After a day at this fine plateau, which I devoted to
observation of the neighbouring localities, I returned to
the Teesta in one long march (twenty miles); arrived
after dark, and put up in the hut at the Teesta, my tent
being in the rear.
I now halted at the Teesta, and made it my head
quarters for several days, and here I found that a curious
episode had occurred. On departure I had handed my
second (trolling) rod to Soobah (syce) with permission to
try the river for fish during my absence, and he now told
me the following extraordinary story. It appears that he
threw his bait into the whirlpool at the junction of the
rivers, and soon found he had hooked something very
heavy. He pulled it towards shore, but it escaped from
the line, affording him, however, a view of a skeleton — or
rather corpse — of a man, which, being released from the
whirlpool, floated down the
river and stranded on some
rocks below the hut. There
I viewed it, else I might have
disbelieved the man's story_
During my stay I made seve
ral attempts to recover the
sad object, which day by day
was being washed away piece
meal, and becoming more and
more a skeleton. At last, if I
recollect rightly, I did dis
lodge the "disjecta membra"
of this hapless one from their
No, 119-Looking down the Teesta. rocky bier, and gave them

Chapter 1.] British Sikhim. 325
decent burial. The poor fellow — I think a Thibetan — had
probably been drowned in the upper reaches of the Teesta
in Independent Sikhim, and may have been eddying in
the whirlpool for days, until thus accidentally fished out
by a stranger, to find burial at the hands of a traveller
from the far west of Europe.
In the beautiful woods between this and the Great
Rungeet I halted for a week. Droves of Bhootan and
Chinese ponies were passing along the road. The follow
ing dialogue — translated with difficulty by a Lepcha
shikari — occurred on one occasion between the traveller
and the master of the string of ponies.
Traveller. — Oh, Aga! (Master of horses) wilt thou sell
a pony ?
Master of the string (bluffly) — We are going to Cal
cutta, and ask one thousand rupees each. What will the
gentleman offer?
Traveller. — Ask him how much a pound — mane and
tail included — he will take?
Syce (in ecstasies of laughter, almost unable to articu
late to the shikari) — -The sahib wishes to know how many
pice a seer the pony is worth ?
Master (looking posed) — The pony is of iron legs and
fat abdomen: he is a rajah's horse. I will take five hun
dred rupees.
Traveller — Tell him the horse squints, and doesn't talk
Hindostani. How can an English gentleman ride such
an animal?
Master (beginning dimly to apprehend a joke, and
breaking into a Thibetan smile) — Very well ! I will reduce
his price to two hundred and fifty rupees.
Traveller — Tell him I will give him one hundred and
twenty rupees and a chogul of mirwah (millet beer).
The master grunts, and moves on; but soon, however,
pauses, and accepts the offer.

326 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
There were some pretty dogs accompanying the string,
one of them with such limpid eyes that I took a fancy to
him, and, after some slight dispute, obtained him for, I
think, five rupees. He afterwards developed into the dog
"Tikdar" — which was his Thibetan or Chinese name — see
illustration No. 116. This dog could eat his own weight
in meat, go to sleep on it all clay, and again eat his weight
in the evening. On leaving Darjeeling I offered to be
stow him on whoever would take him, but on mentioning
his little peculiarity, all refused, and he accompanied us
on our subsequent travels.
All this time I was marching easily along the banks of
the clear and beautiful river, camping at various lovely
spots, and noting sites for camps. On Christmas Eve I
was favoured with a visit from the shikari's entire family,
who came from his village in Independent Sikhim to see
him and me, accompanied by a present of two ch6guls of
mirwah — the best I ever tasted — and some oranges. The
same afternoon I crossed the river, and walked up the
opposite hill as far as Tempoo's village, near Namsoo, and
returned the visit. I found his little farm pleasantly
situated amidst fields of amaranth and millet, with orange
trees dotting the slope alongside. In the evening I ex
changed salutations on the road with the "Lussun" (Am
bassador) from Sikhim, who was en route to Darjeeling
from Toomlong, the raja's capital.
I ate my Christmas dinner at the Great Rungeet
bridge; one of the only two solitary Xmases I have spent
in life. My shikari shot a deer and I a jungle cock,
which, with a modest pint of champagne, constituted my
dinner, enlivened, however, by letters received from Eng
land by the mail just arrived.
I lingered about these pleasant woods and riverside
slopes for several days longer; tried the "Rapids" with

Chapter l.] British Sikhim. 327
spoon and phantom minnow for mahaseer, as a last trial
of the Rungeet; then moved up hill, and pitched camp
north-west of the Lebong spur. I have mentioned this
locality in my report as favourable for settlers, and,
strange to say, the identical measures therein recom
mended have subsequently been taken by government,
and I suppose the spur is now covered with barracks.
To show the nature of the ground a few years ago,
however, I may mention that my journal states that at
night my camp was visited by a tiger (or cheetah)! a bear,
and a troop of jackals! My gun and rifle being in rear,
I looked to my revolver, which, as usual, on an emergency,
wouldn't revolve! I had never, with one exception, be
fore seen a predatory animal at Darjeeling. I had given
a picnic the day before, and the ddbris of the feast may,
perhaps, have attracted this abnormal invasion, as there
were still' scraps of provender in camp. After another
picnic to children, I returned to my headquarters at
Jellapahar at half-past eleven p.m. of the 29th, thus
bringing my trip to a close.
The commandant's quarters at the barracks of Jella
pahar crown the Darjeeling mountain at an elevation of
8000 feet, and during winter may be denominated the
"Temple of the Winds." Nevertheless, full of beauty and
even of the sublime is this elevated Alpine habitation.
The wind, which shrieks through our verandahs at this
altitude, blows over lovely forests and groves, both of
deciduous and evergreen trees, the former festooned with
streamers of orchids or climbing arums, "like to the great
day of Korau-khe't, with its torn banners and trailing
standards of war."
The background of Kanchinjanga, with its roseate
glints of the parting sun; the grey pearl shadows of
evening creeping up the sides of the great mountain;

The Highlands of India. [Section VI IL
then the chiaroscuro of night veils the far ranges m
sombre drab, till, at last, the moon rising over the violet
walls of Thibet, bursts on the sobered landscape, and
clothes the marches of Sikhim in silver and purple. A
noble sight! one to conjure up the ghosts of departed
demigods and Pandaus, and to re-animate the effete cos
mogony of Kamroop of the "Land of Ind!" But we must
pass on, and, descending to the platform of fact, take up
our own line of actual experiences amidst these fern-clad
mountains and silvery gushing rivers, all limpid save the
snow-green Teesta, which rolls down the lofty land of
Sikhim. from its parent lakes in deep green flood.

No. 120— ,4 Chort or Mausoleum, Sikhim.

XX11.-THE TERAI AND FOOT OF THE HILLS NEAR SILLIGORI.

Chapter 2.] British Sikhim. 329

CHAPTER 2.
New-year's Day at Darjeeling — Short Trips about the
district — The Valley of the Rungbee and Sittong —
Fish-traps — Primitive Sw ing-bi ¦ it lye — Remme fi vn-
tier Travel — The Terai, and the Valleys of the Bal
asun and Mechi — Bad behaviour of hvo Behemoths
— Camp in jungle near Gariduri — Search for Tigers
— Punkabarri and the loiver ranges — Approach to
the foot of the Hills — Silligdri — Crossing the Terai
on Elephants — A "mauvais quart-d'heure."
AFTER a sociable Xmas — devoted to picnics and other
amenities, such as concerts, penny readings for the
garrison, and the inevitable big ball to "see the old year
out," new year's day, 1873, found me at Jellapahar — the
military headquarters of Darjeeling. I remained there
most of January, making, however, short trips and rides
to many outlying points of the district, generally carried
out in one long day's ride.
Amongst the short trips made at this time, I note a
ride out to the "Rungbee" and "cinchona" plantations
beyond, which — together with a peep into the valley of
the Lower Teesta, and country behind Sittong — formed a
two days' outing.
In this trip the traveller — passing through the forest
under mount Senchal, which he leaves on his right —
turns off down a pass in the forest, through pines and
oaks, till he emerges into the valley of the Rungbee.
Here I recollect hearing the hornbills "barking" in the
tall trees as I passed along to the cinchona plantations,
which, having been depicted in Vol. I., need not here be
reproduced.

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
In this (Sittong) district occurs the most primitive
bridge, as a means of passing a torrent, I have met. It
is simply a~rope attached to the bough of a large tree
overhanging the torrent. The traveller, seizing the rope,
jumps off, and swinging across the deep but narrow gorge,
simply drops off on the other side; of course he must do
so when fairly over solid ground, otherwise — should he
lose his head — he might chance to fall into the abyss.
On the Rungbee I noticed some interesting fish traps,
which are, perhaps, best explained by a sketch.
There are some copper mines across the Teesta, where,
also, is a ferry; but as my explorations in this district
were, owing to time, very superficial, I will proceed to
the localities already laid down in the programme of my
official tour.
I resumed my travelling on the 24th January, and rode
out to the frontier post No. 17. Here, according to my
report, is a favourable site for a block-house, being situ
ated at the convergence of several frontier roads. It is
sufficiently alluded to in this point of view in Vol. I. I
examined the ground and approaches. There was here
a flourishing Bhootia village, evidencing considerable
comfort and profitable employment amongst the villagers.
From this point I next day marched along the frontier
as far as pillar No. 20 or 21, and there found my baggage
had taken the wrong road. I perforce followed, and after
a march of fourteen miles by an excellent road, found
myself confronted with the Nepalese authorities at
Phikul. There occurred the scene narrated at the end
of last section. I need not recapitulate; but will take up
my narration from the sources of the Mechi, near which,
on the 26th (at Rungbong), I pitched camp. I see noted
in my journal: "A fine country; splendid sites and fertile
"slopes towards west. Tea grounds at Phikul, and much
"cultivation."

Chapter 2.] British Sikhim. 331
On the 27th I moved on to Mirg, a flourishing village
eight miles towards the Balasun; there breakfasted, and
on to Namsoo — nine miles — a large village, which might
even be called a market town, on the Balasun; there
camped, and received my letters from Darjeeling: dis
tance from the Mechi sixteen miles.
"28th: Down the Balasun; crossed the bridge, and up
"towards Punkabarri, but turned down the road, and
"pitched camp for the night at Bissulpati. Tried the
"jungles for game in morning. Shot one deer at Namsoo
"before starting."
29th: Out in the morning for jungle fowl, many of
which were crowing around. No success, jungle too
heavy, so sent Tempoo shikari to try for one. He re
ported that he had seen a tiger, and wounded a deer.
His story was, that he had shot a jungle cock, which fell
at the edge of the grass, when a tiger came out and seized
it, showing his teeth. "We also showed our teeth," added
Tempoo — "thus  " striking an attitude of defence, with
arm on thigh, and bhan* pointed something like the old
"charge bayonets" of the manual or platoon drill, where
upon, according to Tempoo, the tiger, snarling, walked off.
I had to ride up to Darjeeling on official matters, but
left my camp standing, and on the 11th February resumed
my shikar on the Balasun and Terai. Riding down to
camp on the evening of that day I caught a few small
mahaseer (?) with fly and wasp-grub.
12th: Tried river again without success, but shot a
brace of pheasants. The elephants arived at eleven a.m.,
and I sent them on to the Mechi, and followed on horse
back at two p.m. I arrived at Naskshabandi at seven,
and dined with Mr. Lloyd, the proprietor of a large terai
* A long straight knife or dirk worn by Lepchas as contradistinguished
from the Nepalese kookri or curved knife.

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
settlement there; but I had passed almost beyond the
te'rai into the open country of Bengal. "Numerous
"streams intersect the pasture land; water power; fertile
"land, with herds of cattle grazing."
Next morning I had intended beating for large game,
but the tusker elephant, who was must, grew restive, took
to the jungle, and could not be caught, so I had to mount
the small female elephant, on which I proceeded up the
Mecbi to near its debouchment from the mountains at
Loharghat, whence I turned into the heavy jungle of the
te'rai; but here "Behemoth" turned restive, "got out of
hand," and, after several pauses and short rushes, took to
swaying so violently from side to side, that she actually
threw both the "mahout" and myself off her back into
the midst of a tigerish (sirkee) grass jungle. There was
no help for it: I took my rifle in hand, and prepared to
struggle through the long grass rather than trust myself
again to Miss Ayakulada — as was her name I think. I
forget how I got to Gariduri, where my camp was ordered,
but I rather think I met my horse on the road, which I
struck after a mile or two's scramble. I see nothing
entered in my journal beyond "shot a jungle fowl; tiger
"prowling about camp."
14th February: Shikari out early "prospecting;" came
upon the tiger "eating a tattoo"
f^^^^^^^KS^^,, (pony): prudently retreated; e-
specially as — so Tempoo report
ed — the tiger "came for him."
The tiger, it appeared, snapped
up a wounded jungle fowl which
No. 121-Tiger prowling round camp. feH near him. I went myself
and viewed the spot; and sure enough, I soon emero-ed
into a small glade, surrounded by deep forest, in which I
counted no less than nine or ten kills of this ti°-er in an

CnAFrER 2.] British Sikhim. 333
area of, say, two acres of maidan (plain). I looked out
for a good tree on which to construct a macham (plat
form), but could find nothing better than a very doubtful
hazel bush not ten feet from the ground at the gorge of
a small ravine, about twenty yards from the last half-
fresh kill. On this I gave orders to construct the "ma
cham," which, however, owing to the inclemency of the
night, I did not occupy.
In the afternoon I went out on the female elephant,
who behaved very well, and was quite staunch even when
a sounder of pig got up at her very feet, one young
boar running under her belly. I surmise therefrom that
her bad conduct of the preceeding day was attributable
to the evil example of "Peeroo," the male elephant, who
had levanted into the forest, but had been caught, and
was now "in line" in grass twenty feet high. I may here
mention that my proper complement of elephants for the
station of Darjeeling was twelve or fourteen, but all but
these two — the worst of the pack — had been withdrawn
for service in the "Looshai Expedition," a very grievous
matter to a sportsman like myself, who had reckoned also
on a campaign against the rhinoceros and buffaloes of the
te'rai when Jung Bahadur, as our guest, made himself so
much at home, and got so much heavy game. This op
portunity of seeing such sport was thus lost to me.
The night of this day (14th) set in dark and rainy, and
I did not go to the "macham" I had built, nor did I ob
tain any tigers in this place, although I remained several
more days and tried the jungles. There were lots of
tigers about, but I did not chance on one, and it may
have been as well ! as I was alone, my battery was weak,
and my resources were inadequate to the beating of such
a jungle, in which the grass was, in many places, twenty
feet high; and often I could not, in fact, see the other

334 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
elephant within a few feet of me. An encounter with a
ti°-er in such ground would have been unfair. I accord
ingly returned to Darjeeling, having completed my self-
imposed task — the inspection of the western frontier.
The sketch at the head of this chapter represents the
foot of the hills in the te'rai near Silligori, which used
to be the approach to Darjeeling. The road passes
through patches of jungle and grass, interspersed with
clearings, until it nears the tiger-haunted village of
"Gariduri" (alluded to in page 332), near the foot of the
ascent leading to Punkabarri. I had previously roamed
all about these jungles, and had appreciated the scenery
of the Balasun valley. As one ascends and catches the
hill-breezes, I have always perceived a
charming perfume as of wild flowers
pervading the air. It is a characteristic,
and I have found that it proceeds from
aromatic herbs and flowers which clothe
the lower ranges in spring and early
summer, notably the amaranth — of which
'fields are found throughout Sikhim —
whose perfume is that of new mown hay.
Along many of the roads a lovely rose
like shrub is found in profusion. I be
lieve a species of melastoma.
But it is a far different experience in
this region I am about to mention. I
was returning from Calcutta, where I
had met my family on arrival from
England, about the end of April, and it
naiabathricum, Darjee/ing must have been in the early days of
(a flowering shrub). . J J
May that Ave arrived in the afternoon of
a sultry day's journey at Sillig6ri, a hot, feverish, and
mosquito-haunted place, to stay the night in. Here I

No. 122— Melastoma

Chapter 2.] British Sikhim. 335
had appointed the elephants to meet us, so as to go on
across the te'rai the same evening, anticipating our arrival
at Punkabarri about sunset; but owing to the non-arrival
of the elephants, which had been sent out to their daily
"cherai" (feed), we were not quite ready till late in the
afternoon. It was a question whether to start or not,
but on the whole I decided to attempt it, so off we
went about four o'clock; we had not got half-way, how
ever, before I began to see we had made a mistake. The
elephant, probably fatigued with his morning's work in
the woods, showed signs of flagging, and night had set
in before we arrived at Gariduri, the tiger-haunted village
alluded to in page 332. Whether the tigers had begun
their nightly roamings, or whether frightened by impend
ing thunder clouds, from which some "sad drops" began
to fall, I know not, but the beast showed an evident incli
nation to bolt into the forest at its worst environments.
I had my wife and infant child with her nurse with me
on the elephant, and really never felt more anxious in my
life. The puffs of stormy cloud kept lighting up, and a
few drops of rain fell on us. The howdah on which we
sat was broken, and I had to hold some of the party in.
The unfortunate little nurse girl kept nodding with sleep,
almost letting the infant fall; and, on the whole, I must
regard this as one of the "mauvais quart-d'heures" of
my life, extended into several hours. On the ascent, the
wretched behemoth almost shut up, and it was one o'clock
in the morning before we arrived at the travellers' bunga
low at Punkabarri, having been eight or nine hours on
the road — distance, sixteen miles. Providentially the rain
held off till we had descended at the bungalow, but came
down in torrents within a minute or two after our arrival.
I never felt more thankful or relieved in my life than
when we were comfortably housed for the night at this
travellers' refuge.

336

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

CHAPTER 3.
INDEPENDENT SIKHIM.
Sandoopchi and Mount Tendong — Across the Teesta —
Villages of the temperate zone — The Ruttoo — Toom
long — Interview with the Rajah of Sikhim — Peeps
into the Chdla and Yakla Passes — The Monastery of
Rumtik — Return to Darjeeling.
HAVING now completed my perambulations in
British Sikhim, I bethought me of a trip to Inde
pendent Sikhim. The Rajah-Minister, Chungzed-Chun-
der-Durtzi, had been my guest at Jellapahar; I had not
only got up a "zeafut a la chinois" for him at the com
mandant's house in orthodox Chinese style but had
shown him all over the depot at Jellapahar. I found
him a friendly old fellow. I accordingly determined to
pay him a return visit at Toomlong, the capitol of the
Lepcha state. I marched from Dar
jeeling on the 1 7th Janu
ary, 1873, and got as far
as Namtchi that day.
Here there is a ruined
monastery,and granaries
belonging to the Lepcha
state. It is rather an
important place.
On the 18th, up the
Sandoopchi hill. Here,
in 1860, Colonel Gawler's
force encountered some
No. 123— A Sikhim (Lepcha) Soldier. slight Opposition, the
(From a photo).

Chapter 3.]

Independent Sikhim.

337

Lepchas rolling large stones on them from "booby traps"
(for the definition of which see foot note). It is three
miles to the top of the Sandoopchi hill, and an uncom
monly stiff climb. Two miles beyond this point I halted
in the forest on the shoulder of mount Tendong, at a
place called "Bukshin," for twelve o'clock breakfast.
Here the road turns the north-west spur of mount Ten
dong and descends to Terni, a village on a plateau or
fertile clearing above the Teesta. Here we found a tree
more laden with oranges than any I have seen, even in
the Mediterranean littoral. The owner said he had taken
a thousand oranges off it last year, and expected twelve
hundred this season.
Thence (19th) five miles down hill to the Teesta, which
one crosses near some low swampy juugle-islands, form
ing a te'rai valley, in which enormous india-rubber trees
are to be seen. A dense fog lay on the Teesta. The
bark of the hornbill, the crow of the jungle cock, and
other sylvan cries resounded. Here also we observed
many green pigeons. _„ -==^= — --^-=.-,.i^^_^
Having crossed the
Teesta at ten — the pony
swimming across — after
the ascent on the oppo
site side, one enters a
beautiful line of march
along a temperate zone,
in which alternate cul
tivation, shady woods,
and grassy glades, at a
general elevation of, per-

No. 124— Village of Penjong.

It is not stated whether these are national or extemporized defences.
They consisted of a platform on which a young tree, generally a bamboo,
was bent down so as to hold in suspension a heavy rock, superimposed in
such a way that when released it goes thundering down the mountain
towards the advancing foe. X

338 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
haps, five or six thousand feet above the Teesta, which
rolls its dark green flood beneath — a chain of villages
crowning the terrace plateau above. We passed succes
sively (at four hours) "Badong," with oranges and wheat
fields; halting; at the waterfall of Rumshik for breakfast —
to Penjong. Next day on by Radong, Tikting — across
the Marsrot — where we breakfasted near Thrimm; turned
up the river Ruttoo, and pitched tent at Kabee.
This is a very remarkable march along a cultivated
zone, wherein orange trees abound, with fields of millet
and amaranth. From points along the whole plateau —
loT>re' turning east into the valley of the Ruttoo — one
obtains fine views across
the Teesta into the heart
of the Sikhim uplands.

Here was the place —
| Nye, on the right bank
of the river — where the
Lepchas made a last
|jjf stand against the Goor-
JBWMPHWH"^ khas during the inva-
, Nori25-Mount Tendong, from Nye. °
sion of 1797,
From certain commanding points — notably from the
bluff above the confluence of the Ruttoo — one looks up
the gorge of the Teesta towards Singtam, where the junc
tion of the Laehen and Lachoong, issuing from their
parent lakes, forms the Teesta properly so called, whose
snow-green flood rolls over fragments of jagged gneiss
between rocky banks, straight down to the Doars of
Bhootan from its parent lakes.
At Kabee we were within four or five miles of Toom
long, the capitol of Independent Sikhim. The rajah's
house, with the monasteries about it, could be plainly
seen across the Ruttoo.

Chapter 3.]

Independent Sikhim.

339

Having sent word ahead, I crossed the river on the
22nd — leaving camp at Kabee — and proceeded towards
Toomlong. On the way I was mot by a horse or mule
caparisoned in leopard
skin housings, sent by the
rajah for me to ride up
on. I had a pleasant in
terview with the rajah,
who had been at his
prayers at one of the
surrounding monasteries,
and had descended to re
ceive my visit. Altogether J^ST'-f^^-Z^^^^^^
t ¦ ' j. i, -ill No. 126— The Sikhim Rajah's Pa'ace, Toomlong.
1 was most hospitably
received by the rajah regnant, and the old minister
Chungzed-Chunder-Durtzi, who introduced me.
These are two old brothers — uncles of the actual rajah
— a young hare-lipped lad, who, with his sister and the
above two uncles, formed the group representative of the
reigning family of Sikhim, at a visit at Darjeeling, culmi
nating in a grand durbar, held by the Lieut-Governor
of Bengal, Sir George Campbell. In the Appendix I
present photos of all these personages, with portraits of
other representative inhabitants of Sikhim.
I was here forced to accept some presents, as the rajah
would not be refused, amongst which was a side of bacon
and a sack of potatoes! on which my followers luxuriated
for several days. I was, in fact, obliged to halt a day or two
to let them gorge themselves, whilst I made a rapid march
to peep into the Chola pass, towards which I ascended, I
think, as far as Barfod. I sketched Toomlong and the Chola
pass, which is visible from it. The road passes over a series
of wooded bluffs, then dips near some small lakes — the
sources of the Ruttoo. One is here immediately in pres-
x2

340

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

ence of the granitic cyclopean walls of Thibet; they are
very imposing; the
wall of granite rock
seems face to face
with one. I did not
observe much snow.
I managed also to
obtain a peep into
the Yakla pass from
a point half a day's
march up the Run
yep. I present a
sketch of this beau
tiful Alpine pass,
made on the stream
Runyep. Thence I
crossed the Runyep
andRumtikstreams
in which I bathed;
fey'??
ImSm breakfasted, and re-
wmlmm i
r«m sumed my journey

mmWT'

No. 127— View on the Runyep.

mm
-^ssSSsSB at three, alter an
^^^^^^M interview with the
Mfill .JsM c^zi °f Guntook, at
miir^u'. If whoso instance a
fei3Pf ' {¦• | jf troop of Chinese
mummers gave me
an impersonation of
Chinese drama on
the road side.
Oh! those mid
day breakfasts on
the march ! as long
as memory and ap-

Chapter 3.]

Independent Sikhim.

341

petite remain to me shall I remember them! I usually
partook of coffee and biscuit at daybreak, whilst the camp
was being struck, and was generally on the road by sun
rise, marching straight on until about twelve, when I
began to look out for a running stream, on the banks of
which I would generally find some romantic dell affording
peeps of fairyland beyond, near which to breakfast, often
amidst the boulders or moss-clad stones of some pellucid
stream, whose waters, tumbling over rocks, issuing from
some lonely forest glade, would sometimes lull one to a
mid-day siesta. These vistas I would often have gladly
explored had time permitted. Sometimes, if sufficiently
rested, a stroll up stream or into the adjacent forest, whilst
the baggage was proceeding onwards to its camp, was
obtainable. I did, in fact, manage to make in this district
one or two slight divergences from the track hereabouts
notably towards the Yakla pass, of which fine bit of Al
pine scenery I present a sketch, made on the back of an
old letter as I sat by the lovely stream.
Next day, in the forest, I met a very grand personage,

No. 128-/1 PEEP INTO THE YAKLA PASS FROM THE RUNYEP.

342

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

one of the chief llamas of Rumtik— Tsung-zing by name.
He was camped in the forest, and honoured me with an
hour's conversation. He had just left his monastery, to
which I was bound. On the 26th I visited the Goompah
of Rumtik. The chief llama, "Chittai,"
had gone to Choombi in Thibet. The
second llama, Tsung-zing, I had met
in the forest. In this monastery are
some strange pictures, and a consider
able library. I sketched the effigy of
a certain marine deity (Dukk Pomoo),
whose personel struck me as rather
unique. Hence I crossed the mount
ain, and met my pony at the village of
Naztum; I had been forced to send
him round to avoid bad ground. I
breakfasted at Sung, which I reached at twelve. Shot one
deer and one jungle fowl en route, and saw thar and bur-

^IPJEp

No. 129— The Deity Dukk
Pomoo.

nil m tho _»«
countrynear Sungwhich
is very wild and
precipitous ; in
fact the road in some
parts goes up ladders

No. 130— VILLAGE OF NAZTUM.

Chapter 3.J

Independent Sikhim.

31po

— the ladders being simply jags in trees laid against the
cliffs. There was a long double harr near camp at
Naztum. 27th: Crossed Teesta to Turko; oranges.
28th: Marched at eight, breakfasted at my old halting
place, Bukshin, at twelve; arrived Namtchi at four.
Camped amidst the ferns of a ruined harr.
29th: Crossed Rungeet at eleven; camped at Teesta at
three. Here I rested, and organized a drive along the
rivers, but obtained, I think, only one kakur deer.
30th: Rode up to Darjeeling, where we arrived at
twelve, thus bringing to a close a very interesting journey,
in which we covered about one hundred and twenty
miles in regular march, and, perhaps, eighty more. in
deviations from the track during halts.

No. 131— Obituary Pillar near Rumtik.

344 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII-

CHAPTER 4.
A trip to Pe'midnchi monastery — The valleys of the
Rahtoo, Kullait, and Rungeet — Kulldck — Rinchin-
pong — Ascent to Pemidnchi — Description of the
"Holyland" of Sikhim — A few words on the monas
tic system — Conclusion.
I will recount the last expedition made by me amidst
these beautiful mountains — "Pemianchi." I had
several times been in its close vicinity, and had looked
down upon it from the slopes of Singaleela close above
it, and from which radiates the subsidiary spur on which
it is built; but the monastery itself I had never visited.
It crowns a ridge facing the peak of Kanchinjanga.
Three distinct, consecutive ranges of mountain, have to
be crossed to approach it from Darjeeling.
At noon of the 20th November, 1873, accompanied by
a young friend, I started from Jellapahar and rode to
G6ke, where our tents had gone. Next day (21st), we
started at 7.30, — four miles to the Rummaum (9 a.m.),
and up the hill beyond to Mint6gaom (eight miles):
total, twelve miles. Above the riparian valleys there
is a fearful climb through forest and cultivation.
Being out of training I was rather distressed on this first
day's journey. On a former occasion my companion had
found wild celery and gigantic radishes hereabouts, the
taste of which he tersely described in the language of
Yankee-land as "a caution to snakes." I can corroborate
this as regards the culinary aspects of wild celery and
cucumbers, which are also found. I recall, however,
beautiful gold and silver ferns and arums as a compen
sating flora of these mountains.

.. w

XXIV.— A TRUMPET SERVICE AT LEBONG, SIKHIM.
(From a photograph.)

Chapter 4.] Independent Sikhim. 3^5
22nd: Started at 7.20; crossed Rahtoo at seven miles.
Breakfast, then on another seven miles to Kullock; thence
a long mile to Richinpong — total, fifteen miles (ten hours).
Kulfock was the site of the fight with the Bhootias during
the Sikhim war, when our civilian levies were beaten,
and their one cannon captured.
23rd: Started at 7.40. Breakfast at the river Kullait
(seven miles) ,in a tributary of which — the Runyep — we
bathed. Here we observed a fish-trap. Resumed our
march at 3 p.m. Passed several "harrs" or sacred edifices
en route. We now experienced a fearful climb up a
densely wooded ascent of six or seven miles, where the
track is obliterated by jungle, to Zyie-zing, where the
rajah's old house is found. Deer and civet cats were
observed on the march. We halted at Zyie-zing for that
night, but moved up to ground near the monastery of
Pemianchi next day.
This celebrated monastery, which is served by no
less than one hundred and nine llamas, deserves some
detailed description, and I have devoted a paragraph or
two at the end of this chapter to some detail of the
"Holyland," of which it forms the centre or Kibla.

g^^r-^Jgg

Site

No. 1S2-CHINESE PILGRIMS OR GIPSIES.

346 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
We arrived during the performance of a service in the
goompah, at which one of the chief llamas appeared to be
reading texts and preaching from them. Every now and
then, however, a chaunt of about sixteen or twenty chor
isters would intervene with really a grand intonation;
some of the voices were the finest basses I ever heard,
and the possession of such would make a chorister in
any cathedral choir in England famous. A servitor of
the goompah conducted us into a sort of gallery over
looking the main hall, in which the service was proceed
ing, and having shewn us to seats, set before each of us a
clfogul (or section of bamboo) of the inevitable mirwah
(millet beer) to occupy us until the chief llama should be
disengaged to receive us. This he did at the conclusion
of the service, and was afterwards civil and communicative
enough during our stay here: his name was Yar Bomboo.
We remained the 24th and forenoon of 25th sketching
the vicinity, and then descended to the rajah's house
below, from whence we commenced our return downward
journey. Here one is in the actual presence of the great
mountain Kanchinjanga, whose gaunt grey pinnacles
loom large and lofty across the chasm between. The
contour of the mountain which is rather an aggregation
of peaks than the rounded bluff it looks from Darjeeling,
is here well seen, and the various peaks can be counted,
and the height of each estimated. In the evening we
descended to Zyie-zing, which we reached late, but in
sufficient time to encamp before night fall. Here there
is a long wall — called a mendong or harr — having several
hundred slabs bearing the mystic words "Om-om-mani-
pemi-'om" inscribed on each. (See Appendix.)
26th : Marched at 7.30. Breakfast at the Kullait (of
which a sketch is reproduced); bathed, and resumed
journey at 2 p.m.: a long climb upward, and it was 5.45

<5&T.*-jfc*

-

¦IltliillflitI

11; ' "

Chapter 4.] Independent Sikhion. 347
before we arrived at Richinp6ng (fourteen miles). We
passed "harrs" on
the road at several
points. Here next
day we visited the
goompah, but after
Pemianchiitseemed
a poor affair. It K
contains several Ife
grossly indecent em- fjf<
blematic idols and m'
pictures. OntoKul- fe
luck. Here the m
Bhootias repulsed I
the British (civilian)
levies in 1861.
Breakfast at twelve
at the Rishi; then,
retracing the steps
of our upward jour
ney, we passed Mint-
6gaom, arriving at
Goke at 4.30 p.m. of
the 28th: thence we
rode into Darjeeling
next day, having
covered not more
than sixty or seventy S
miles in direct dis- S
tance, but over a
track involving-
much severe up and
down climbing.
It must be un- _ ___ No. 183— ON

348

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

No. 134—4 "Chort " near
Zyie-zing.

derstood that the great monastery
of Pemianchi lies just under the
slopes of Kanchinjanga; the ridge
on which it is situated being in fact
in the actual presence of the great
peaks of Jooni and Nubra, between
which and the goompah yawns an
abyss, seemingly not a mile across as
the crow flies, but it would be found
that many days' weary climb would
not suffice to take the traveller much
beyond the little lake of Catsupperri,
which lies under the ascent a few miles
beyond Pemianchi.
The approach to this monastery from Darjeeling in
volves the crossing of three lofty ranges of mountains,
each of which constitutes a day's journey; and, in fact,
the plan we adopted was to sleep on the higher ground,
and cross the deep intersecting valley the ensuing day,
usually taking our mid-day meal or dejeuner — breakfast
I have called it — at the beautiful rivers or streams which
drain them, where a halt of several hours and a delight
ful bath could be enjoyed. This always seemed to us the
best arrangement for hill travelling, and its adoption has
led to some very pleasant hours, Dejeuner, followed by
a cigar and siesta after a long morning's walk, seems a
justifiable relaxation to the most self-abnegating of travel
lers, and the reader will not have failed to remark the
stress imparted to this important meal throughout these
mountain rambles.
In Vol. L, "Highlands of India," at page 104, will be
found a note shortly describing the technicalities of Pemi
anchi and its associated monasteries, which form what
may be termed the "Holy land" of Sikhim. I believe I

Chapter 4.] Independent Sikhim. 349
may as well re-produce it, together with the foot note
embodying a few facts I have been able to collect, as ex
planatory of this interesting subject.
"I am not here writing a guide book, and can scarcely
"in this place touch on the interesting Boodhistic localities
"and goompahs (monasteries) which are found through -
"out Sikhim — at Pemianchi, Toomlong (the capital of
"Independent Sikhim), Rumtik, etc. Innumerable harrs
"or mendongs — walls having slabs inscribed with the
"mystic 'Om-om-mani-pe'mi-'om' — also stud the upland
"spurs and ridges.
"This invocation is generally given as 'Om-mani-paefoTW-
"'om;' but in the Sikhim district it differs, and is as in the
"text, viz., 'Om-om-mani-pemi-'om.' Scholars have trans
lated the former, 'Hail to the dweller in the lotus, amen!'
"My rendering of the latter is 'Hail to (God) the all pre
serving, the all punishing!' The word 'pemi' clearly
"refers to the punitive attribute of Deity. I was most
"particular in my questions on this point to the second
"llama of Pemianchi — Yar Bomboo by name — who repeat-
"edly denied the word 'pemi' to have any reference to
"the lotus. The Lepcha invocation may, therefore, differ
"from the orthodox liturgy of the Boodhists, and may
"perhaps be a corrupted form, but assuredly no reference
"to the lotus is involved in it. The following were the
"llamas of Pemianchi — 1, Durtzie Loben; 2, Yar Bomboo;
"3, Rechu (son of Ohiboo Llama); and one hundred and
"eight others, when visited by me on the 24th November,
"1873. Besides the goompahs (monasteries) already
"mentioned, there are as many as seven others on the
"spurs of Kanchinjanga forming, with Pemianchi itself, a
"sort of 'holyland;' these are — 1, Changachilling; 2, Tas-
"sading (Phandogat, Catsupperri); 3, Doobdie; 4, Sun-
"nook; 5, Dholing; 6, Raklong; 7, Pe'mianohi. There is

350

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

'also 8, a monastery near mount Maimon on the Rak-
"long pass, on the watershed
"between the Teesta and Great
"Rungeet. Here the Lepchas
"made a stand against the Ne
palese in 1787. 9, Mons Lepcha
"was the original seat of the
s^ "Lepchas after their immigration
' "from Thibet. 10, the Zyie-zing
"mendong or harr is two hun-
"dred yards long, with nearly
"seven hundred slabs. A mon-
No. 135- Group of uamas. «astery is called a goompah; a
"mausoleum, a chort; a wall of slabs a harr or mendong.
"Phadung and Phazung are two of the monasteries
"closely adjacent to the capitol — Toomlong. The whole
"country is full of interest, strange to India."
In these monasteries one finds printing presses having
the old immovable German block type, and which have
in fact been in use in China and its dependencies for up
wards of two thousand years. At these presses editions
of sacred Bhoodist works are printed, and stored in the
libraries of the monasteries; from which — at Pemianchi
and elsewhere — I vainly endeavoured to procure an
edition. A complete set is presented to each llama acolyte
on joining or taking the vows. In Sikhim anybody may
become a llama, and there does not seem to be any special
class from which they are recruited. People of both sexes
and all classes join. The rajah himself, or rather the
uncle regent, is a llama. There are nunneries in the
country, — notably one near Toomlong, presided over by a
sister of the rajah as lady abbess.
Tho similarity of the Bhoodist to the Roman Catholic
monastic system has frequently been noticed by scholars

Chapter 4]. Independent Sikhim. 351
and others, who have written learnedly on the subject;
and,, indeed, the most cursory traveller could not fail to
remark this similitude, which probably owes its origin to
the introduction into old Thibet of the ceremonies of the
Nestorian sect, at a period antecedent to Mahomedanism.
It is well known that early in the Christian era bishoprics
of the Syrian church existed in Turkesthdn and through
out Central Asia, and it was probably thence that the
monastic system was introduced into Thibet and Chinese
Tartary. On this subject a few words have already been
given in the Appendix to Section II. of this volume.
And now, before closing this short notice of a most
interesting district of the "Highlands of India," I would
fain dwell on the aspects of nature in these grand mount
ains, but my pen fails to convey in sufficiently picturesque
language an adequate eulogium. I must fall back on my
own former words — "Who that has witnessed the peaks
"of 'Kanchinjanga,' lighted up by the sinking sun, whilst
"the grey shadows of night are stealing over the lower
"mountain, can ever forget a sight almost unique in the
"world! The magnificent forests also containing a flora
"quite distinct from that of the Northern Himalayas, and
"approaching a sub-tropical or Malayan type, with tree-
" ferns and waving orchids, arums, and ferns! The grand
"river scenery impending over the bright flashing waters
"of the Rungeet and its tributaries from the western
"watershed, with the deep green flood of the Teesta —
"semi-tropical foliage clothing its margin and lateral
"glens — such certainly present glorious objects of admir-
"ation to the lover of the sublime and beautiful."
To march about such a country is of course delightful:
nor is a tent indispensible in all places, as the Lepchas —
a cheery, obliging people — will often, in an hour, con
struct for one a bower of bamboo, with bed and table,

352 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
cut from the forest, with their long straight knives, in
the use of which they are most expert. The author has
had several nights' lodging in such leafy arbours in his
numerous excursions about this lovely land.
I now take leave of the glorious mountains of this
district, with the expression of a hope that they may be
come more and more the habitation of the sons of Britain,
more and more the abode of the strong races, destined
to hold India for ages, perhaps as colonists, certainly
as friends to the aboriginal populations, as well as to
those tribes emigrant from Thibet, which form its present
population, and who seem so free from fanaticism and so
disposed to throw in their lot with England.
This fine district seems as well fitted as any in the
land for experimental colonies forming local landwehr,
and for the industrial communities advocated in a former
volume of this work. I have already dwelt sufficiently
on this subject, and must not forget that this volume
purports to be simply an addendum of a picturesque and
graphic character to subjects already discussed in their
primary significance.

No. 136-THE KULLONG ROCK.

Chapter 4.] Independent Sikhim.

353

APPENDIX TO SECTION VIII.
1— ARCHAEOLOGICAL.

No. 137— A HARR OR MENDONG AT ZYIE-ZING.
Page 346.

No. 13S-FACSIMILE OF EACH SLAB OF THE ABOVE.

354

The Highlands of India. [Section viii,

APPENDIX 2.
ETHNOLOGICAL.

Section VIII,]

Appendix,

355

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356

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.

ss,
— c

£0,000.

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15J>00_ 10.000. S.000-
Sea.level

Terad, or
Tan.

Bhdhur

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¦mJthferVLe. clear
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and vegelaHenw:

fountains of central, regions mcsl fouia ¦
for European settlements 5,000 to
IQflOo'EUX

<ulduble.

Snowey Mountains

XXV.— SECTION OF THE HIMALAYAN TERAI.

Section ViiL] Annexe. 357
ANNEXE TO SECTION VIII.
ASSAM.
A profile of the Terai subtending the Himalayas north
of the ceded Bhootia Doars is given, and may serve to
connect and lead up to the hill regions treated of in
Section IX. — the next step of the "Highlands of India."
Intermediate between Sikhim, Bhootan, and the Khasia
Hills we find Assam, in the valley of the Brahmapootra,
that mysterious river, whose source and upper course is
even yet a subject of controversy amongst geographers.
In the Himalayan highlands, which bound Assam on the
north, are found Bhootias, Abors, Duphlas, Looshais, etc.,
and other cognate tribes, mostly of Shdn or Indo-Chinese
origin, which — under pressure of the conquests of Kublai-
Khan, in the twelfth century, or his successor, Genghis-
Khan — gravitated into the south-east Himalayas, and
chiefly form its present population.
The reader is referred to Vol. I., "Highlands of India,"
for some historical notice of this subject; in the present
volume it can scarcely be further pursued; but as regards
the vast area alluded to as Assam, in which big game such
as rhinosceros, buffaloes, elephants, etc., abound, it may
interest the reader who has thus far followed this little
chronicle to hear something of field sports, which — owing
to causes mentioned at page 333 — the author was him
self prevented from following. "A Note on Rhinosceros
Shooting in Assam" is accordingly here introduced,
kindly placed at his disposal by a former school-fellow
and fellow-traveller* — a distinguished old soldier and
* Lieut. -General H. A. Sarel, C.B., &c.

358 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
sportsman — which tells its own story, and gives some
idea of the game to be found in the wild grassy reaches
of the Brahmapootra valley, commonly called Assam.

NOTE ON
RHINOSCEROS SHOOTING IN ASSAM.
In May, 1865, my staff service in India came to an end, my
regiment was ordered to England, and, as there was not much
probability of my returning to India, I determined to have one
more expedition in search of big game before leaving for ever
those happy hunting grounds. I could not have obtained suffi
cient leave to enable me to revisit the Himalayas and Thibet, so
I decided to go to Assam in search of rhinosceros ; I had hunted
nearly all the big game of India, but had not seen a rhinosceros,
and had killed buffalo and elephants only in Ceylon.
I obtained leave to remain behind my regiment, and started for
Assam on the first of April with a friend recently arrived from
England in search of sport ; what used to be known as a T.G.
Neither I nor my companion knew anything of the country we
were about to visit, and it was, in fact, very little known except
to a few tea planters. Fortunately for us the Bhootia campaign
was in progress, our force being under the command of that good
and gallant officer, the late Sir Harry Tombs, V.C., one of the
many good officers trained in that splendid corps, the Bengal
Artillery. General Tombs had promised to supply me with ele
phants, without which shooting in Assam is an impossibility.
Had I known more of the country, or of the habits of rhinos
ceros, I should not have chosen the month of April for my ex
pedition : the best season for sport in Assam is, I believe, about
the end of January or February, when the grass has been burnt,
and when one is able to see an animal before coming right on top
of him. However, we started from the Sealdah station by rail,
and, after a hot and dusty journey, reached Kooshtea, on the

Section viii.] Annexe. 359
Brahmapootra, in about seven hours. There was only a dirty
room at the terminus in which dinner was to be obtained from
what was called an hotel ; neither ice nor soda water was procur
able ; the ghat, or landing place, was about three miles off, and
we lost no time in sending our baggage to the steamer, which
was to start early the next morning. On our arrival on board,
everyone was asleep, and we lay down on our rugs on deck with
out disturbing a soul.
Our steamer — the Pioneer — was only seventy horse power,
and, as we had two flats in tow, with coolies on board for the tea
plantations, our progress against a strong stream was of the
slowest ; sometimes we had a fine breeze, when our sails helped
us. About once an hour we ran on a sandbank, and carried
away a few timbers and hawsers, but the river boats being trim
med by the head, a little shifting of ballast soon floated us off.
The weather was fearfully hot, and, as cholera broke out amongst
the coolies, our voyage was not so pleasant as it might have been.
Fortunately the nights were cool, so that we could enjoy a good
sleep. Our chief amusement was shooting at alligators, of which
we saw a considerable number : one day we killed ten, some of
which were brought on board ; these are the long nosed, or fish
alligators (gurreeal), and are quite distinct from the man-eaters
(muggers). Numbers of porpoises were rolling about, but gave
no chance for a shot.
The river is, generally, a broad strong stream, with low sandy
banks ; on the " churs," or low sandy islands, the buffalo and pig
were numerous, but we could not stop for shooting. In sleeping
on deck care should be taken to have a blanket handy, as a cold
wind often springs up, which strikes a deadly chill after the heat
of the day.
On the ninth of April we reached Goalpara, where we bought
a couple of very common howdahs ; perhaps such things may now
be procurable in Assam, but we should have brought them from
Calcutta. On the 13th we arrived at Gowhatty, and put up with
the 43rd N.I. : the baboo in charge of the post office denied hav
ing any letters for us, but allowed us to ransack his boxes, where
we found several. We crossed the river and marched to General
Tomb's camp on the 14th, leaving again on the 16th. On the
march we shot a few deer and bustard-floriken. General

360 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
Tombs gave us eight elephants, or we could have seen nothing in
the high grass.
My battery consisted of a No. 8 double rifle and a smooth
bore of the same calibre, besides a single hexagonal bore Whit-
worth rifle, which threw shells ; these, however, proved useless
against large game, as the explosion was so instantaneous that
the fragments of lead acted only as a charge of shot. My com
panion's battery consisted of a double breech-loading 16-bore
rifle, and two 14-bore muzzle-loading smooth-bores, carrying ball;
with the exception of one breech-loading rifle, all the guns were
muzzle-loaders. Our first day's rhinosceros hunting was on the 20th. We
beat for some hours without finding, but came at length on some
deer and buffalo in a swamp : we wounded a few, but lost them
in the high grass. A tea planter joined us, saying that he could
show us the best sport in Assam ; but as he proved to be an im
postor, and to be careless in handling his rifle, we were not sorry
when he took his departure. Soon after he left we came across
a rhinosceros feeding. My rifle missed fire both barrels — I sup
pose from the excessive damp. My companion gave him two
barrels, but after tracking him a long way, we lost him. We
then followed the spoor of two rhinosceros for about three miles
into a dense patch of high grass, beyond which no tracks were to
be seen, so we formed six elephants in line, with the howdahs at
the far end. Almost as soon as the beat commenced, a rhinos
ceros broke within twenty yards of my elephant. I gave him
both barrels in the shoulder, and two more as he went away, and
dropped him ; the mahout said another had broken back through
the line of beaters. We beat back again, and my friend wounded
another badly, which we killed after an exciting chase : he
measured 14ft.2-£in. from the nose to the tail ; his horn was
ll|in. long, and 22in. round the base. We soon found another,
which my companion hit in the ribs, and I hit him with both bar
rels and brought him down, but he got up again, and came at my
elephant open-mouthed. I hit him on the top of the head as he
came on, and turned his charge, but the ball did not penetrate :
we had a long chase after him, and eventually killed him with
two long shots. On our way to camp we killed a couple of horse
deer ; these are nearly as large as red deer, with more and flatter
tines ; at this season the horns are in velvet.

Section VIII.] Annexe. 361
We were well pleased with this our first day's shooting, and
the succeeding days were much like it ; though full of excitement
for us, they would be tedious to others in the description.
The most objectionable part of the sport consisted in cutting
off the horns : these had to be chopped off the bone of the nose
with an axe, a process which splashed the operator with blood; on
reaching camp the horn and thick skin attached had to be boiled,
when the skin became loose, and was easily detached from the
base of the horn ; the horn itself looks like a conglomeration of
coarse hair, with the tip rounded and polished by digging for
roots. I may mention here that this appears to be the only
use to which the animal puts this appendage, as will be seen fur
ther on. I learnt from experience that he uses his mouth only
in attack ; this disproves the fact (?) which I learnt in the days
of my youth, that when the elephant and rhinosceros engage in
mortal combat, the rhinosceros — though smaller — almost always
gains the victory by goring his enemy in the stomach, carrying
him about on the end of his nose till rendered blind by the blood
running into his eyes. Many of our youthful lessons in natural
history do not stand the test of experience.
On dismounting from the elephant to cut ofi the horn, we were
often unable to find the rhinosceros till guided by the mahout, on
account of the height and dense growth of the grass, the stems
being usually thicker than a man's finger, and as difficult to
penetrate as brushwood ; even a native would probably be lost if
set on foot where there was no footpath.
Two days after our first hunt we had a day after a herd of
buffalo which had been seen in the neighbourhood of our camp.
We found them after some beating : each bagged one, and I
wounded a young bull with a remarkably fine head, which was
marked into a patch of high grass, and followed the herd, out of
which we killed two more cows, one of them in milk ; at another-
time I should have thought the milk undrinkable, but in such
heat as we were experiencing it was simply delicious. We went
to look for the young bull whicli I had wounded, and after some
beating heard a tremendous noise, and saw one of the pad ele
phants coming out of the patch at his best pace, with the mahout
driving him with the " ankoos," and calling out that a tiger had
sprung on to the pad and carried off the "jemadar," or man who

The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
had charge of the elephants. We put our elephants in at once
to the rescue, and soon came on the jemadar, who told us that
the buffalo had suddenly jumped up and frightened the elephant,
which spun round and shot him overboard. On coming on the
buffalo he charged at once, and two bullets on the top of the
shoulder did not even make him flinch, but a third dropped him.
It took us some time to secure the horns, as a buffalo's head is
heavy, and the vertebra of his neck are not easily separated.
I have always looked on a buffalo as the most dangerous
animal of the jungle to follow on foot : he is excessively cunning,
and when wounded will hide in a pool of water with nothing
above but his nose, or will come round on his old track and lie
in wait for the hunter, and charge suddenly out on him. If he
knocks a man down he will not leave him till he has trampled
him, and licked him with his rough tongue out of all shape. A
rogue elephant is bad enough, but his charge is more easily stop
ped. It is next to impossible to stop a charging buffalo, as he
carries his nose so high that a bullet will glance off his forehead.
I once killed a buffalo in Ceylon, which seemed to be preparing
for a charge, by a shot at the tip of the nose ; he dropped dead,
and I could find no mark of a wound till his head was taken off,
when the bullet was found at the back of the brain pan, having
passed up his nostril.
The natives hereabouts were shy of us, and pretended to know
nothing of the country or of the game ; they had seen but few
Europeans — except the scattered tea planters ; as soon, however,
as they found that they were regularly paid for their day's work,
and that they were allowed to cut off and take home as much
rhinosceros or buffalo meat as they wished, and especially when"
they found that we had physic for their sick, they came in larger
numbers than we wanted. They are ingenious in forming a camp:
they cut down some of the grass to lie on, and tie the tops of the
surrounding jungle together, making a shelter impervious to
rain ; and, though living in the midst of swamps, did not seem
to suffer from fever.
As it was difficult to find out anything about the country or
the game, we marched to "Kummergong," where Kurruch Singh,
a small landowner and noted hunter — known as the "Hathi-
Raja," or elephant king — lived. On the march we passed some

Section VIII.] Annexe. 363
buffalo and antelope on the open plain, but could find no covert for
a stalk. We found his majesty absent on a shooting excursion ;
the headman of the village declined to provide supplies, so we
made him over to our guard to be kept a prisoner till supplies
were forthcoming, the result of which was that men were sent off
on the instant, and in about two hours we had ten days' supplies
for ourselves, servants, and elephants, and milch goats to take
with us till we reached the next village, for which we paid liber
ally, though I doubt if much of the money reached those for
whom it was intended.
At Dukwagong we found the Hathi-Raja, who volunteered to
accompany us and show us the shooting ground near Bagh Doar,
and a practicable ford across the Monass by Sidlee, so as to avoid
returning the way we had come, — by Roha Thanna and Bijuee.
The Raja had a small elephant. He told me a great deal about
the rivers of Assam, and assigned the sources of most of them to
the Manasarowar Lake in Thibet, but seemed a trifle mixed in
his ideas of geography, though not more so than the compilers
of the only government map we could procure, who had placed
rivers and villages wide of their true location.
Towards the end of April storms of rain were frequent, and
interfered with our sport, as the tracks of game were washed out,
and rivers and nullahs became swollen.
We were fairly fortunate in our rhinosceros hunting under the
Hathi-Raja's guidance, and were more successful in killing them
when he explained the vital spot for a bullet, which is about half
way up the fold in the skin behind the shoulder. On receiving
a shot there the animal at once begins to whistle from the escape
of air from the lungs, and he cannot go many yards after such a
wound. The Raja described three kinds of rhinosceros, of which
the smallest has the longest horn, but it seemed to us that the
largest and oldest animals had the shortest horns only from more
wear in digging for roots.
On the islands in the Monass we saw a few tigers, but the
grass was too high to allow of any sport with them ; they are
wonderful swimmers, and go through the water with a rush like
a sailing boat. Near Bagh Doar the Monass is full of fish, prob
ably mahaseer, but we had no tackle.
Some of the villages had been burnt by the Bhootias, and the

364 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
cattle carried off. The men reminded me of the "Moantse" —
the wild tribes in the hills to the west of China, whose country
cannot be very distant from this. They value highly the nails
and horns of the rhinosceros. The price of the latter at this time
is forty rupees the seer — about £2 for one pound in weight.
From Bagh Doar we went to Peerudgong, and hunted the
Raec Moollah district. We had been warned of a fly in this
district, — a mosquito with " a bill like a snipe." These were the
most fearful blood-suckers I ever encountered. Fortunately they
did not trouble men, but attacked the elephants without mercy,
and it was common to see a row of these flies on the edge of the
pad so gorged that they could not move, and squashing them was
a most objectionable process. We had here fair sport with rhinos
ceros and buffalo. There were so many of their tracks that it was
difficult to follow a wounded animal. Tracking is the most ex
citing part of rhinosceros hunting ; sometimes the spoor took us
three or four miles up to a thick patch of reeds, which we had to
"ring" to see if the animal had gone through ; if he had, the
spoor had again to be followed; if not, the pad elephants were
formed in line as beaters, while we took post at the far end. At
first the beaters had drums and all appliances for making a noise
— in which Indian no less than English beaters delight — only in
stead of the " hi ! cock, cock 1 " of the Englishman, the native
showers vituperation on all rhinosceros and buffaloes to remote
generations. We found that noise almost invariably made these
animals break back through the line of beaters, so that the
strictest silence had to be enjoined.
On one occasion, when moving camp, we crossed the tracks of
a herd of wild elephants, which had crossed the road during the
night ; their track led straight to the hills, but, as it would most
likely have led us for several miles through thick jungle, we did
not follow it.
One day we saw the tracks of two rhinosceros, which had
crossed the road that morning. My companion and the pad ele
phants kept the road to camp: I followed the track for some
miles, till I came on four rhinosceros wallowing like great pigs
in a mud hole. I had to wait till they got up, then I singled
out the one with the best horn. He was hit too far forward,
and I gave him the second barrel in the ribs. His track led into

Section VIII.] Annexe. 365
some thorn jungle — very thick and dark — at the bottom of a
deep and narrow nullah. I was stooping to avoid a jungle vine,
which was hanging down, when out came the brute open-mouthed;
my elephant wheeled round like a top, and before I could get my
rifle up, I felt the elephant being shoved up the bank as if there
was a locomotive behind, and we went up that bank considerably
faster than we came down. I had to hold on to the howdah, and
even if I could have turned round I could not have got a shot, as
the rhinosceros was too close under the elephant's stern ; so he
had it all his own way for over a hundred yards, when my shikari
— who was in the back seat — let fall my large leaf umbrella on to
the animal's back. This seemed to frighten him, or perhaps he
was blown, but he sheered off, so I got a snap shot at him. The
elephant continued to urge on her wild career at her best pace for
about a mile, fortunately through open and level ground, and was
at last stopped with difficulty. After pacifying her with biscuits,
and letting her gather wind, we took the back track to where we
had been driven out. The elephant shied at everything she
passed till she came to my umbrella, when round she spun, and
away we went again. When again stopped, she would not re
trace her steps, but had to be brought round by a circuit. I
dismounted some distance from the jungle and went in on foot, as
the elephant would have no more of it. I followed the spoor,
and found the rhinosceros dead : the last shot had hit him
through the lungs.
On reaching camp — where the elephant was examined — it was
found that the rhinosceros had bitten her severely behind ; the
skin was badly bruised, and the wound was evidently tender:
next morning there was a lump like a large sirloin of beef, and
the elephant had to be put in the sick report, and I had to take
another which was not nearly so steady.
We marched through thick jungle with varying success, killing
a few rhinosceros, buffalo, and horse deer; but there were too many
trees for shooting from elephants.
At Buxa we found an outpost of the 31st N.I., and some
Goorkhas. I went up the hill to look at their pickets, but found
that six weeks in a howdah had not improved my walking powers.
Towards the end of May the weather began to break, and the
sun, when out, was very hot, and our people began to be sickly.

366 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
The doctors had recommended a lot of rum in the early morning,
and a dose of quinine in the evening ; treatment to which our
servants — though Mussulmans — made no objection. At Mal-
inga, where were some of the Bahar Raja's sepoys, the duffadar
said that out of eight men taken ill six had died.
One of our elephants was girth-galled, and mine was still hors-
de-combat ; the unsteady one I had to use lost me in one day a
rhinosceros and two buffaloes.
On the 1st June I had a last try for rhinosceros, as the rains
were evidently near, and it was time to be out of the jungle.
The snows were melting in the hills, the rivers thereby becoming
unfordable. I thought my last day would be a blank, but at last
made out at some distance the end of a horn moving through the
jungle grass ; waited till it disappeared, and then followed, and
found him and another lying in a water-hole ; they both rose,
and I dropped one with the first barrel, and hit the other as he
rushed up the bank. I heard him whistling, so knew he was shot
through the lungs, and found him dead about a couple of hun
dred yards off. This was the heaviest right and left shot I had
ever made, peafowl being the heaviest game I had hitherto killed
in this way. On the way to camp I had to cross the Toorsa,
which was too high to be forded, and there was but one small
canoe for the baggage. My shikari found another, belonging to
some fishermen, and with these we made a raft, the elephants
swimming. Fortunately there was a good moon and no rain,
and I reached camp at Falakota at midnight, where I found my
friend wondering what had become of me.
We made the best of our way to Caragola-Ghat, having left
the natives with the largest stock of meat they had had for
years — probably they never had so much before.
We found the country, in places, flooded, and the march in
consequence difficult. At Caragola we embarked for Sahibgunge,
and took the first P. and O. steamer for England.
I had a bad attack of jungle fever, which sadly interfered with
the partridge shooting, and I was not able to join my regiment
at Colchester till November. I cannot say that I found English
hunting and shooting so much to my taste as the wild life in the
jungles. In conclusion, I would recommend anyone who may be desirous

Section VIII.] Annexe. 367
to hunt rhinosceros in Assam not to select the season at which I
went, as he would probably suffer, as I did, from fever and ague,
which I did not shake off for nearly three years.
I may mention that the commonly conceived idea that the skin
of the rhinosceros is impenetrable is a mistake ; it is very hard
when dry, and makes excellent shields and whips, but, when
green, it is easily cut with a knife.
The Assam terai is alluvial, and, for the most part, level ; but
no extensive view can be obtained, except from the foot of the
Himalayas on the north, on account of the dense grass jungle,
which grows to the height of twenty feet or so. The soil is,
probably, fertile ; but, as water is so near the surface, I should
consider that much draining would be required to make agri
culture remunerative, except in certain spots : rice might be culti
vated, though I saw none of really good quality.
I saw no sheep nor cattle, nor buffaloes, domesticated.
There were in 1865 a few scattered tea plantations, but the
men in charge seemed all to have suffered from fever.
I am speaking only of Western Assam ; in the country to the
east — higher up the river — very superior tea is extensively
cultivated. There are some scrubby trees, principally bhar and sal, and the
bamboo grows luxuriantly, and is used almost entirely for build
ing purposes, even to the flooring.
Towards the foot of the Himalayas there is some dense forest,
with open grassy glades, and in these there were some signs of
cattle having been grazed ; possibly the reason I saw none was
that the Bhootias had, at the time I was there, made plundering
excursions into our territories, and they would have carried off
what cattle they could lay hands on.
In the forest are many tree orchids ; if I had known that they
would live after the boughs on which they grew were cut off, I
should have tried to bring some home. We saw scarcely any ani
mals in the forest, but I one day shot a beautiful jet black marten
cat, the skin of which I was unable to preserve, as, on account of
the great heat, decomposition set in before I could reach camp.
The soil of this part of the terai is formed from the decayed
vegetation which has accumulated for ages. Water is generally
procurable within three or four feet from the surface, but this

368 The Highlands of India. [Section VIII.
water is unfit for drinking purposes. In the streams running
from the hills the water is clear, but is tainted by the decayed
vegetation over which it flows. The sand, if rubbed in the hands
feels greasy, and has not the cleansing properties of ordinary
river sand.
The climate, except during the winter months, is unhealthy for
Europeans, and our mahouts and Bengal servants suffered from
attacks of fever. The malaria is considered by the natives not
to rise more than fifteen feet, and the police stations of the native
kings are built on bamboos at that height from the ground.
When our troops were cantoned in this part of Assam in 1865
the barracks were not raised more than about three feet, and the
troops suffered severely from fever.
The natives we found at first rather shy of Europeans, as they
had an idea that we wanted to press them to work at the new
cantonments, but as soon as they found that we wanted them only
to beat the jungle, and that whenever an animal was killed they
were at liberty to take what meat they could carry — besides being
paid for their day's work — they came with us readily. The neigh
bourhood of our camp was made unpleasant by long strips of
meat hung to dry in the sun, and when the drying was completed
the men made the dried meat into bundles and took themselves
off to their villages most independently, but as fresh relays were
constantly arriving in the hope of a supply of meat, we were not
inconvenienced; indeed, it was a satisfaction to find that the
meat was not wasted. I have always thought that the chief
drawback to one's pleasure in salmon fishing in an out of the
way river is the difficulty in getting rid of one's fish.
I know nothing as to the tribal designation of these people,
nor could I learn much about them, as only a few spoke Hindu
stani, and that indifferently. They are generally slightly built,
but are wiry, and most excellent trackers. Like most natives
who have seen but little of Europeans, they think every English
man is a doctor, and were all eager for physic ; a dose of quinine
being by far the favourite remedy for all complaints, and it cer
tainly seemed to have a highly beneficial effect.

r

' '• ¦ V;,

WM

XXVI.— FALLS OF MOASMAI, KHASSIAS.

( 369 )
SECTION IX.
THE KHASIA HILLS.
IN regard to this section I am able to add but little to
the few words allotted to it in the corresponding
section of Vol. I. The few illustrations there to be found
are here reproduced, with a few descriptive words, chiefly
borrowed from Hooker's journals on the district.
The access to the Khasia Hills is by water, — ordinarily
by rail to Kooshtea, and so by Dacca — up the Brahma-
poo tra, Megna, and Soormah rivers to Cherrapoonjee and
Shillong. The Soormah drains the Cachar, Jyntia, Khasia,
and Garrow Hills: in the rains it forms a vast jheel or
shallow sea, having an area of not less than 10,000 square
miles. It rises on the Munipoor frontier. Contrary to' all
expectation, this is a healthy district, and free from the
malaria of higher and more wooded districts, such as the
northern te'rai of the Khasias.
From Cuttack, on the Soormah, the Khasia Hills
appear as a long flat-topped range, 4000 to 5000 feet
high, running east and west, steep towards the jheels.
About twelve miles distant the waterfalls of Moasmai are
seen "falling over the cliffs into a bright green mass of
foliage that seems to creep half-way up their flanks."
The flora of the Khasia forests differs from that of the
Himalayas, consisting of bright green evergreens and
palms, whereas the latter are chiefly large forests of de
ciduous trees. The laurel and betel-nut are found; and
oranges, bamboos, gamboge, plantains, and vines, with
palms and cocoa-nuts, present a sub-tropical flora of a
Malayan character: orchids, ferns, mosses, and grasses
also abound.

370

The Highlands of India. [Section IX.

To give some idea of the exuberance of the flora of the
Khasia Hills, it may be stated that Hooker enumerates
two thousand flowering plants within ten miles of Cherra-
poonjee; fifteen bamboos, one hundred and fifty grasses,
one hundred and fifty ferns, two hundred and fifty
orchids, and many mosses, etc. This great variety is
attributable to the varied nature of the soil and climate,
which embraces the stony plateau and the steaming
forest. On the road to Cherrapoonjee one passes the valley of
Moasmai, where "several beautiful cascades, rolling over
"the table-top of the hills, broken into foam, throw a veil
"of silvery gauze over the gulf of evergreen vegetation
"2000 feet below."
Cherrapoonjee is on the high road from Silhet and
Gowhatty, the capitol of As
sam, on the Brahmapootra.
The plateau attains 4,600 feet
in elevation, but has an ex
cessively rainy climate,— six
hundred inches during the
year being no unfrequent
rainfall, and two and a half
feet have been known to fall
in twenty-four hours: the
denuding force of such is of course remarkable, and is
evident in many parts. The view from the plateau of
Cherrapoonjee is magnificent; 4000 feet below are valleys
carpeted as with green wheat, "from which rise tall palms,
"tree ferns with spreading crowns, and rattans shooting
"their pointed heads — surrounded with feathery. foliage
"as with ostrich plumes — far above the great trees. Be-
"yond, are the jheels, looking like a broad shallow sea with
"the tide half out, bounded in the blue distance by the low

No. lib— Cherrapoonjee.

Section IX.] The Khdsia Hills. , 371
"hills of Tippera. To the right and left are the scarped
"red rocks, and roaring waterfalls shooting far across the
"cliffs, and then arching their necks as they expand in
"feathery foam, over which rainbows float, forming and
"dissolving as the wind sways the curtain of spray from
"side to side."*
Inland, at about 5000 feet, the country is open and
bare, till the valleys of the Kalapani and B6gupanif are
crossed. Beyond this, the Bhootan Himalayas may be
seen at the astonishing distance of one hundred and
sixty or two hundred miles. Moflog, oh the axis of this
range, is 6,062 feet, with a splendid view of Bhootan, and
from Shillong (6,600 feet) — the highest point of the
Khasia range — a truly magnificent panoramic view is
obtained of an area of three hundred and forty miles.
The view embraces nearly an entire circle. To the north
are the rolling Khasia Hills and the entire Assam valley,
seventy miles wide — one hundred miles distant — with
the great river Brahmapootra winding through it, fifty
miles distant, reduced to a thread. The first ranges of
the Himalayas are one to two hundred miles from Shil
long. These snowy mountains are below the horizon of
the observer, and occupy sixty degrees of the horizon =
two hundred and fifty miles. To the west are the Garrow
hills, forty miles distant; and eastwards the lofty Cachar
hills (4000 feet), seventy miles off. To the south, the
Tippera hills — one hundred miles distant — bound the
horizon, whilst to the south-west lies the sea-like Gan-
getic delta. Fully 20,000 square miles are encircled in
this area. * Hooker's Journals.
t This river disembouches into the jheels at Chola, west of Cheerra,
forming rapids below this point.
z2

372 The Highlands of India. {Section IX.
A sketch of the "Kullong" Rock, a curious dome on
the Moflog plateau — six hundred feet in elevation above
the terre-plein — is given as a vignette in Section VIII.
It is of crystalline granite; the plateau itself being meta-
morphic, but containing greenstones and nummalitic
limestones; the presence of "faults," and the intrusion
of granite is found; its elevation is about 4,500 to 5000
feet above sea level.
As regards the Historical aspect of these mountain
regions, and the adjacent districts, I can only refer the
reader to the historical sketches to be found in Vol. I,
"Highlands of India," page 122 et seq. I may say, gener
ally, that the regions under notice — Cachar, Munipoor,
Jyntia, and Assam — were probably embraced in the an-
tient kingdom of Kamroop or Cathay, and ruled over by
scions of the original Shdn or Pong dynasty until over
turned by the Burmese towards the end of the eigh
teenth century, and finally absorbed in the British Indian
Empire by the treaty of Yandaboo in February, 1826.

No. 146- SUNSET IN CAMP.

XXVII.— AN INDIAN RIVER.

( 373 )
SECTIONS X., XL, XII.
THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS.
The Nilgherry Plateau, with the Annamallays, Pulnays,
and Travancore Mountains — The Shervaroy Hills
and associated Spurs [mentioned at pages 143 — 4^>
Vol. I.] — The Mountains of Malabar and Coroman-
del — The Salt Lakes or "Backwaters" of Travancore.
CHAPTER 1.
OF these mountains I can add but little to the short
descriptions already given. Having only passed
across them as a traveller, I had but few opportunities
of following field sports, and could barely find occasion
to view their natural features. I did, indeed, reside
several months at Ootacamund, on the Nilgherries,
from which, as a centre, I contrived to wander a little,
and, in fact, visited some interesting points,— especially
along the edge of the "koondahs," which bound the

^^^^^^^

-Mil v

WBum
sSKGir - - f-

374

The Highlands of India. [Sscc. X..XL, XII.

Nilgherry plateau. One can view advantageously from
thence the adjacent districts subtending these points of
vantage. I must, however, fall back oh my former words.
"The terre-plein of this elevated region — averaging
over 7000 feet above the sea — is not level, but appears
like a rolling park-like plain, intersected by wooded
spurs and valleys, and, like most mountain plateaux, is
surrounded by an elevated buttress ridge or edge, called
locally the 'Koondahs.' Some of the peaks attain ele
vations exceeding 8000 feet above sea level, such as —
Doda-betta (8,760), Koodiakad (8,502), Bevy-betta
(8,330), Kimdal peak (8,353), the Ootacamund peak
(7,360), K6tagherrie (6,571), and Koonoor (5,886). Such
are a few of the principal altitudes of this fine plateau,
from whose watershed streams originate and flow in
every direction.

No. WS-THE NILGHERRIES, FROM OOTACAMUND.
The "Koondahs" in the distance.
Instead of the cramped ridges and nicks in the hill
sides, such as the roads in most Himalayan stations may
be termed, we have here miles of driving roads, many of
them adjacent to the pretty semi-artificial lake, with its

Chapter 1.]

The Southern Highlands.

375

willow-bunds and pleasant marginal sites: hence you see
the distant blue peaks of the surrounding 'koondahs,' the
bounding enceinte of this fine plateau. The eye ranges
over waving 'sh61as' and exotic foliage — eucalyptus and
flowering shrubs. The sholas are small woods, or groves,
occupying clefts or basins in the hills, a peculiar feature
of Nilgherry scenery. They are often filled very densely
with ancient knarled trees,
' Bearded with, moss, and with garments green, indistinct in the twilight. '
They often hold game, sometimes even a stray tiger from
the low country, and herds of buffaloes range over the
terre-plein. An ensemble is thus presented of unusual
character and combination at Indian hill-stations, which
— coupled with their accessibility and central position —
certainly confers an immense advantage in many respects,
and must always render these, hills a popular resort.
It would take long to do justice to this subject, or to
fully dwell on the capabilities and resources of this grand
mountain plateau. To take the reader with me to all the
surrounding outposts and points of interest, would occupy
too long a space. I may mention, however, (1) Kotgurh,
or K6tagherrie, a civil station to the south-east, elevated
6,500 feet, a fine position, whence you can see in the
blue horizon the Palnay and Annamallay

No. 149— South-east edge of the Nilgherry Plateau, from near Kotagherrie
Distant view of the Annamallay Mountains.

376 The Highlands of India. [Sect. X., XL, XII.
mountains: it is on the south-east edge of the plateau
furthest from the sea. (2) On the south-west Avalanche
and Sispara — haunts of the sambur — with their green
sholasandinteresting grassy
downs, sloping from the
koondahs, suggestive of
sheep-walks and pasturage.
(3) Neddiwuttun, whence
you look down on the
'Wynaad' and its rolling
No. 150— The Coffee Grounds J _ °
at Neddiwuttun. forests, varied by the clear
ings of the coffee plantations,
here greatly developed. (4) On the north Buckrata and
its cascade, whence you have an outlook over the rolling
Mysore table-land, which here rises to 3,500 feet, narrow
ing to some fifteen miles in width at its blending in with
the mass of the Nilgherries. (5) Lastly, one may climb
Doda-betta (8,760) — that fine peak to the north-east of
Ooty — which grandly towers over the lowlands of the
Carnatic. As I write, these and many other charming 'outings'
rise on my 'storied memory.' Starting after an early
breakfast — sketch-book and 'tiffin' in wallet — one can
easily ride from Ooty to any part of the buttress edge of
the plateau, gaze on the country subtending it, and re
turn by nightfall; but he must have a good horse under
him to do this, as he will have to cover upwards of fifty
miles during the day. The vision of a certain raw-boned
old 'Dekkani' roan occurs to me, from whose back I
certainly beheld some glorious scenery in this district —
a dangerous runaway brute scarcely controllable — but I
forgave him this in consideration of his unwearied ser
vices. He tried all he could to break his heart by violent
going, and though, in his own interest, trying hard to

Chapter L]

The Southern Highlands.

377

spare him, I fear that at length he accomplished it for
himself. Only occasional game is to be found on the plateau,
but the forest-clothed sides of the great mountain block
of the Nilgherries swarm with every description of large
game known to the Indian sportsman; whilst the sur
rounding koondahs are the rocky haunt of the 'muntjak,'
the smaller ibex, and the sambur. The presence of
<game' certainly does not lessen the attractive character
of this region as a locality for a British settlement."

No. 151— EAST EDGE OF THE NILGHERRY PLATEAU;
Shervaroys in the distance.
I will here give, as supplementary to the above, an
epitome of my trip down from Lahore to these interesting
mountains in 1864. A Trip to the Nilgherries.
During the summer of 1864, after a rapid rush down
from Lahore, I found myself about the 12th of August
starting for Coimbatore and the Nilgherries from the
platform of the Madras station of the G.I.P. railway, an
"iceberg," provided by hospitable friends at Madras,
stowed away somewhere under the seat, and tatties of
kuskuss grass against the windward windows. Soon,
however, I dispensed with these last as obstructive of the
view of the country I wished to obtain en passant, and in
whose interest I braved the excessive heat.

378 The Highlands of India. [Sect. X., XL, XII.
On the left Arcot, Vellore, Salem, etc., are passed, but
too far from the line for observation at this time, though
I visited them all on a subsequent occasion.
In the south of the Indian peninsula the native cities
and military cantonments are all some miles off the line,
a dominant idea of the original constructors having been
the creation of an English town at each station. This
idea has only been partially realized, and on the other
hand the distance is a great nuisance to the traveller.
On the right, the Southern Ghats, at places impinging on
to the terre-plein of the Carnatic, are visible.
I was able to make several fugitive panoramic sketches
of this country as we passed along in the train.
Arrived at Coimbatore, the next step was on to Koo-
noor, on the top of the ghat, and only a few miles dis
tant from "Ootacamund," the term of our journey. A
native cart of the most humiliating character — on which
was spread our bedding, and whose rate of progress was
perhaps two and a half miles an hour — took us to the
foot of the hill, thence, if I recollect rightly, we hired
ponies. Advancing along slopes having a semi-tropical
flora, we soon found ourselves arrived at the coffee plan
tations which clothe the sides of the steep gradients
leading on to the Nilgherry plateau. The berries at
this time of the year were in all stages of development,
and varying in colour from a pleasing apple green to
pink, deep red, and crimson, into the purples and warm
browns of maturity; indeed, the coffee plant is a notice
able shrub, worthy of aesthetic cognizance. From Koo-
noor we rode onwards the same afternoon, reserving visits
to Jakatdla and K6tagherrie for a subsequent occasion.
Ootacamund — or "Ooty," as its familiar friends in the
south term it— is situated in the midst of rolling prairie
like land on the inward spurs of the south-east koondahs,

Chapter L] The Southern Highlands. 379
amongst which the peaks of Doda-betta and "Ooty" itself
— with Elk Hill, a subordinate wooded spur — appear as
prominent acclivities, whilst the willow-fringed bunds of
its pretty winding lake (a sluggish stream dammed up),
the orchid-spangled turf of its margin, the groves (sholas)
of dense foliage which fill the occasional dells or hollows
of the rolling plateau, are striking and picturesque. An
Australasian flora has been established, and the gum-tree
(eucalyptus) is represented by well grown forests and
plantations surrounding the European settlements. The
hedges, even, of this beautiful station are often of
wild-rose, geranium, fuchsia, jasmine, goodsia (tree-lily),
and other flowering scented shrubs, and one feels oneself
in a cluster of sweets.
This country is well known, and has been pleasantly
described by many, I know not by whom better than by
the "Old Forest Ranger," whose enthusiasm for this
country-side and its game is refreshing reading.
Here also I would fain introduce — as a sportsman
worthy of more than passing notice — my good old friend
and relative J. B., a well-known figure at "Ooty;" a
weather-beaten old sportsman, whose sinewy form, fol
lowed by his dogs, now looms before my mental vision, —
clad in an old brown shooting coat with tartan trews and
gaiters, gun over shoulder, and a pair of lurcher-looking
dogs following at his heels; the old fellow's face of a
warm laterite— he fulfilled the beau-ideal of an "old
forest ranger," or of the "old poacher," as society then
dubbed him. But a rare old sportsman and companion
was honest J. B., with the brave heart of a thorough
Indian hunter, and possessed of a vast experience of
Indian jungles and their game. The sort of old fellow
who would share his last crust, and bestow his very last
cigar on a friend! After retiring from the service, the old

380 The Highlands of India. [Sect. X., XL, XII.
"gunner" never left these hills, but lived on the very peak
of old "Ooty," and there I believe, died. Many a trout
have I seen captured by him in the waters of Dumfries
shire in my youthful days, when we used to drive about
the country in a boat on wheels, he informed me he
used the same expedient to fish the lakes of Goondwana
and Nagpore in after years. He lived in a quaint bache
lor's den on the very top of old "Ooty." Society laughed
at the poor old boy, who was always as poor as a church-
mouse; but many a worse fellow has walked this earth
than honest old John B., retired, of the Madras Artillery!
and I sincerely hope he long lived after our parting at
"Ooty" in 1864 to shoot the "first woodcock" of many
seasons !
I myself had no opportunity of following game in these
mountains, but once riding with a sporting friend to Sis-
para or Avalanche we found ourselves surrounded by one
of those herds of half-tame buffaloes which are sometimes
so troublesome. The circle was closing in on us in a
menacing way, for a reason which will presently appear.
After a brief consultation with my friend, we simply set
spurs to our horses, and flourishing our riding sticks,
came down on the buffaloes at the charge, when they in
continently 'gave way, and opened out to let us pass.
Presently our guns came up, and we then learnt that
there was a tiger at that moment in an adjacent shola,
which the buffaloes had probably nosed, and mistaken
us for it, thus — though these animals are at all times to
be distrusted — the demonstration of alarm and menace
we had experienced. My companion, a red-hot sportsman,
who had been all over the Annamallays, etc., that season
now proposed we should go after the tiger. Now I
should have preferred not, but not wishing to appear
backward in facing the enemy, I had not the courage to

Chapter L] The Southern Highlands. 381
refuse. We accordingly surrounded the shola and began
to endeavour to pelt the tiger out I He was evidently
there, and probably sneaking from side to side in his en
deavours to break unperceived. On one occasion I
plainly smelt him. He was, doubtless, often within a very
few feet of both of us, but we caught no view of him in
the dense thicket, and after an hour's fruitless hunt — as
we had a long ride before us — we desisted.
I have never killed a tiger, even from an elephant, and
this endeavour to shoot one on foot, with a smooth-bore,
has appeared to me a rather fool-hardy experiment, and
it was, perhaps, as well for us he did not break cover;
though, as far as my experience goes, I have always
found close quarters favourable for the bag; but in the
case of a tiger — one pat of whose paw is death — I am not
sure that the experiment is justifiable. I had a brother,
however — the late lamented Adam Gordon Newall, of
the Bombay Artillery — who dropped his brace of tigers
by a right and left shot on foot, and bagged them both !
I remember my travelling companion on this occasion,
who had just returned from a shooting trip in the Anna
mallays, telling me of his first adventure with an elephant.
It seems he and his companion chanced on one sleeping
in a glade of the forest. They walked round and round
the great beast, considering how best to tackle him, but
being "griffs," could hit on no convenient method. Mean
time the elephant slept on steadily, and they had almost
to poke him up with their guns before he stirred. At
length, rising, he quietly skedaddled, without their minds
being made up, and disappeared in the forest.
What shall I say of the haunts of the "sambur" at
Sispara and Avalanche, shola-crested; of the rocky west
ern "koondahs," on which the lesser ibex is occasionally
found; of the waterfalls under Makoorty peak, on which

The Highlands of India. [Sect.X., XL, XII.
also, to the west, lie the auriferous gold reefs lately ex
ploited; of Bakrata with its cascade and outlook over
the plains of Mysore ; or the grand peak of Doda-betta
towering above the ruined fortress of Gazalhatti, and its
chasm sheer 4000 feet below the buttress of the Nil
gherries, which here culminate in the grand peak of
Doda-betta, 8,700 feet above the lowlands of the Carnatic?
Adown the steep forest slopes of the enceinte which
engirdles this plateau are to be found tigers and other
large game of an Indian forest, such as rhinoceros,
buffalo, and, I believe, gauor — the urus or so called bison
— frequent some localities in this district, but I have not
seen them. I had but slight opportunities of pursuing
such sport, though from the back of a certain old Dek-
hani roan I certainly managed to thoroughly view the
scenery of this block of mountain, from the edge of
which I gazed on many a wild panorama of forest and
rolling wooded prairie and distant mountain. I have
even hunted occasionally with the Commander-in-chief's
hounds, a strong mountain pack. It was cheery to see
high officials such as H.E. the Governor of Madras (Sir W.
Denison) and the Commander-in-chief (Sir Hope Grant)
turn out in pink and ride to their hounds like English
country squires. I myself being a mere traveller and
looker-on, generally rode "foxey" along the tops of the
hills viewing the chase, but those who followed the hunt
close occasionally got fearfully "bogged" in treacherous
green mosses or peat haghs, such as are found in Devon
shire and in the muirs of the Scottish borders.
When not engaged in such wanderings I often joined
the parties of friends whose life whilst on leave in these
mountains seemed an everlasting picnic. Staff-officers
escaped from the drudgery of their offices at sweltering
Madras for the month only, may be pardoned if they

Chapter l] The Southern Highlands. 383
looked upon the time of visit to their families in these
charming summer hills as one long holiday to be tho
roughly enjoyed whilst it lasted.
The climate is rather "dreeping," and heavy showers
would sometimes overtake our festive outings, but no
body seemed to care a bit. Out with waterproofs ! The
ladies also affected long waterproofs, hooded, and abso
lutely ignored the weather. I think nowhere else have
I seen so complete and happy a defiance of the weather,
whose vagaries were even matter of pleasing excitement,
as leading to "cloaking up" and general hilarity. How
could one refuse invites to come "under the plaidie,"
cuddled up with pleasing companions! Sitting round
under the trees, many a pleasant song and social chat
can thus be enjoyed; and on the whole the social attrac
tions of these beautiful hills are manifold.
I had no time to hunt, as I wished to explore as much
of the country as possible, so in November, descending
into the Mysore country, and passing by Mysore, Ser-
ingapatam, etc., to Bangalore, I took rail to Madras.
Thence I again committed myself to the G.I.P. railway,
and for the next three weeks or more literally lived on
the railway : sleeping at the various stations, and proceed
ing inland right and left, I viewed as much of the country
of Southern India as possible. After this, a passage in
the French Messagerie's steamer Erymanthe, and "so
home" by rail to Delhi and Lahore, — ending a trip during
which I certainly viewed many new and diversified scenes
in the south of the Indian peninsula.
Madras has often been called the "benighted" presi
dency. All I can say is I found it about one generation
ahead of the cracked7up "Punjaub," which in those days
had been so "written up" by several brilliant pens. I sup
pose the truth to be that as Madras contributed less than

384 The Highlands of India. [Sect. X., XL, XII.
either of the other presidencies to the imperial exchequer,
she was dubbed benighted! but it seemed to me, as a
traveller, that she had expended her surplus revenue on
her own public works and other representative purposes,
as really the structures about the south of India far sur
passed anything I had seen of the kind in north-Avest
India. I guessed, therefore, that Madras had spent at
home, in making herself comfortable, the funds that
would have raised her name in the official world of fi
nance as a better paymaster and producer. She had
evidently assumed for her motto the world-wise maxim
"Natus consumer e f rug es!"
On this rapid journey, on my return up country, to
"save my time," I recollect I had to avail myself ot a
spare "distribution" train of rolling stock, on which, being
the only passenger, I got a lift on the engine, and warmed
myself at the furnace during the cold night journey;
further, making friends with the driver — a most respect
able young Scotchman, who told me his salary was £150
a year — I was allowed, under his instruction, to drive
the engine into Delhi, where we arrived at twelve o'clock
on a bitter cold December midnight. Thence a "ghari"
journey through the cis-Sutlej states to Meean-Meer,
Lahore, where I resumed command of my battery, thus
bringing to a close a memorable trip to regions not often
in those days visited by a soldier of the Punjaub.

No. 152- DISTANT VIEW OF OLD DELHI,

Chapter l] The Southern Highlands. 385
Iii Vol. I., page 135, some account of the inhabitants
of the Nilgherries may be found, and in the Appendix
I have given an illustration of a Todah hut with its
inhabitants, who are the indigenes of the plateau. It was
during one of my rambles about Ooty that a pair of
Todahs — a mother and son, apparently — came out of the
forest in front of me and hissed at me! Not knowing
one word of their language — which is, in fact, I suppose
only understood by buffaloes, and, perhaps, Kurrumburs,
their nearest forest neighbours — I was quite at a loss to
guess what they wanted, so I merely waved my hand and
wished them good morning. Still nothmg but nods of
the head, hisses, and clacks of the tongue! I began to
laugh, but could extract nothing further than this very
primitive mode of expression, which assumed a crescendo
in proportion to my laughter. After a vain endeavour to
arrive at some idea of what they wanted, I again waved
my hand, took off my hat, and wished them good morn
ing, upon which they vanished into the forest as silently
as they had emerged, and to this day I have not the
slightest idea of their views or wishes. A view of a Todah
hut, and some specimens of its inhabitants — taken from
a photo — is given as a typical illustration.
In the field sports of this district, the "Old Forest
Ranger" is "facile princeps," and I am tempted to quote
from him, referring, however, the reader interested in this
particular district to the work itself. It is one of the
earliest on the subject, and to my thinking has never been
surpassed in its own line. I will extract his account of
the Orange Valley, which moreover, I have myself visited.
The orange valley 1 There is perfume in the very name ! Our
old heart warms, and a delicious languor steals over our senses
as we recall to mind the silent, balmy, incense-breathing morn
when first we trod the flowery shades of that enchanting spot.
Aa

386 The Highlands of India. [Steer. X, XL, XII.
Armed as we were to the teeth, and bent on slaughter, we felt as
if we profaned the scene by our unhallowed presence. It seemed
to us the abode of peace and innocence ; a place for young lovers
to walk hand in hand, culling the golden fruit, and twining into
bridal wreaths the snow-white blossoms, which made the very air
love-sick with their fragrance. It was not for such as we — the
blood-stained, weather-beaten hunter. Such were the thoughts
which flitted through our brain as we wended our solitary way
through this wilderness of sweets. And were it not that at the root
of an orange tree we discovered the mangled carcase of a deer, with
the fresh footprints of a tiger leading therefrom, there is a fearful
probability that the Old Forest Banger might, in the softness of
his heart, have thrown aside his rifle, betaken himself to a straw
hat and pastoral crook, fastened bunches of green ribbon to his
knees, and devoted the remainder of his life to piping lovelorn
ditties in praise of some cruel, stony-hearted shepherdess. But
the well-known print of the tiger's royal paw recalled our man
hood, and rescued us from the puling life of an Arcadian shepherd.
We were once more in our element. We hugged our trusty rifle,
thanking our good stars that it was no pastoral crook. And as
we loosened our hunting knife in its sheath we felt that we loved
the sweet spot all the better, now that we had a right to explore
its beauties with the free step and roving eye of a hunter.
It was at the lower end of this beautiful valley, which derives
its name from the dense jungle of wild orange and lime trees
with which it is clothed, that* the party from Ootacamund had
pitched their tents. . . ,,,.,-v,i,.

No. 153— VIEW ON THE "BACKWATER," TRAVANCORE.
As regards the Annamallays and associated ranges, I

Chapter 1.]

The Southern Highlands.

387

have positively nothing to add to the few details given
in the corresponding section of Vol. I., but a few words
may be devoted to the mountains and salt lakes — or
Backwaters as they are termed — of Travancore, which
intervene between the base of these southern mountains
and the sea, and form a most remarkable and picturesque
feature. I reproduce one or two illustrations of them in
concluding this chapter of the work.
I had a kinsman and namesake once — Colonel David
Newall, of the Madras army — long "Resident of Travan
core," Avhose name lives still in the memory of that state
as an official of no mean talent; ships are still afloat on
the Malabar seas which bear his name. A writer on this
district (James) states that as early as 1825 he had visited
a bungalow built by that gentleman on the Travancore
mountains near Cape Comorin, and that it Avas the only
point he had seen in the Indian peninsula, whence one
"could behold the sun both rise and sink in the open
blue ocean." Many houses of Europeans have, however,
I believe, been since built on these fine mountains.
These lagoons contain fairy-like scenery, and as one
glides in one's boat along their placid surface one can
sometimes hear the thunder of the surf outside the thin
barrier of drift sand or cocoa-nut trees within a few yards.
I have witnessed and heard similar phenomena on the
" backwaters" of Coromandel.

No. lM^LATERITE CLIFFS NEAR WURKULLY, COROMANDEL COAST
Aa z

( 388 )

CHAPTER 2.
The Balaghaut, Mysore, Goorg, Ganara, etc., with a notice
of the "Droogs" of Mysore — The Falls of Gairsuppah
and Cascades of the Balaghaut — Falls of the Cauvery.
THE author's actual experience of this province, and of
the districts above mentioned, is confined to one or
two peeps into the Wynaad from the edge of the koon
dahs or Nilgherry plateau,
with a subsequent journey
across Mysore as far as
Bangalore. This route takes
one across the plateau, by
way of Mysore city and
Seringapatam, near which
is found Chittel-droog, al
most the only "droog" actu
ally ascended by myself,
though I have viewed others
in the distance.
A notice of these interesting "islands of the plain" has
been given in the corresponding section of Vol. I., and a
description given of this fortress, as also of Severndroog,

No. 15h— Hyder1 s Drop, Mysore.

No. Ue-SAMPLE OF A SOUTHERN DROOG.

Chapter 2.] The Southern Highlands. 389
Nandydroog, Kistnagherry, Rydroog, etc., so it scarcely
seems expedient here to recapitulate, beyond reproducing,
as typical illustrations, samples of a southern hill-fort,
the more especially as I have no sort of adventure to give
regarding any of them. I have said of them:

No. 157— SUNKERY-DROOG ; gneiss hill pierced by granite in foreground.

"As one approaches the Western Ghauts, hill fortresses
"abound, many of them of great natural strength, but a
"description of one nearly applies to all. The character
istic 'droog' (or durga), however — an insulated peak
"rising abrupt from the terre-plein to the altitude of
"1000, 1,200, or even 1,500 feet— is not found further
"north than the Toomboodra; they then give place to the
"flat- topped plateaux and buttressed rocks of the Dekhan
"(to be described further on). Doubtless such points of
"vantage early attracted the notice of the savage abori
gines inhabiting these lands. The 'Vanapootras' (child-
"ren of the forest), followed by the hordes of Aryans, Mah-
"rattas, and Mahomedans — even Hanuman himself, the
"demi-god monkey-king — may have scaled these precipi
tous peaks, and there offered sacrifices to the earth-god-
"dess (Durga). Originally points of veneration, they must
"soon have offered the additional attraction of military
"security to the inhabitants, and from time to time chiefs
"seized upon them as the centre of their predatory war-
"fare, each adding defensive works. Perhaps before the
"dawn of the Christian era most of these points may have

The Highlands of India. [Sect. X., XL, XII
"been occupied by belligerent tribes. The Mahrattas
"seized on many of them; added to and strengthened
"their works; and were, in fact, dominant throughout
"Mysore and the Balaghaut till the rise of Hyder Ali in
"the eighteenth century. That leader doubtless expug-
"nated them from many, and the British, coming after,
"completely effected their subjugation. Most of them
"are now deserted and in ruins, and exhibit a sample of
"a state of things passed away for ever."
As a curious feature of Canara, the Falls of the Sur-
navati, at "Gairsuppah," may be mentioned. These are
amongst the most wonderful cascades in the world.
The chief fall is 880 feet in perpendicular altitude.
Another — "The Roarer" — plunges into a deep cavern be
hind the grand fall; and "The Rocket" and "Dame
Blanche" are adjacent cascades; the whole forming an
ensemble almost unique in waterfalls. The Falls of the
"Tadree," from the same watershed in Canara, are also
remarkable cascades. Whilst on the subject, the Cata
ract of the "Gatpoorba," a tributary of the Toomboodra
river near "Gokauk," may also here be mentioned as a
wonderful sight of south-west India," but the Falls of
the Cauvery are, of course, the best known of the cas
cades of Mysore. They are situated in an island above
Seringapatam, near an ancient city called Gunga Raya,
in the midst of a jungly rocky district in which much
game is found. My old friend, J.B.,* alluded to as an old
Indian shikari in the last chapter, had many anecdotes
of the country above them, in which he had shot tiger,
bison, and sambur, galore. I was, in fact, induced by
his accounts to endeavour to visit them as I passed
across the Mysore plateau. I turned off accordingly
* Colonel John Babington, Madras Artillery.

Chapter 2.]

The Southern Highlands.

391

from a point near Seringapatam, but the road I followed
degenerating into a mere sandy track, in which my gharry
was threatened with utter dissolution, I lost the way, and
— my time being short — I had to return re-infecta by
another route, which brought me again at last into the
main road beyond Chittel-droog. These falls have, how
ever, been pleasantly described by others, and if I can,
ere closing this section of my subject, find the passage
I will give it in an appendix.
With these words I must conclude these "few remarks
on this interesting country, and pass across the river
Toomboodra into Maharashtra, where the "droogs" give
place to the flat-topped plateaux and buttressed rocks of
the Dekhan.

No. 158-DISTANT VIEW OF NUNDY-DROOG, MYSORE.

( 392 )

SECTIONS XIII. AND XIV.
MAHARASHTRA AND CENTRAL INDIA.
CHAPTER 1.
The Western Ghauts (Syhoodria or Sdhyddri Mountains),
Mdhdbuleshwdr, Mahteran — Pertabghur — A Sport
ing Trip to the Dekhan by Raighur — A Day's Walk
on the Western Ghauts — A notice of the Hill Forts
of the Dekhan — The Watersheds of the Godavery,
Krishna, and Nerbudda.
MAHARASHTRA, the land of Seevajee and the
Mahrattas, conjures up vivid scenes of romantic
history such as the writer of picturesque annals might
well turn to account for an historical romance. The rise
of "Seevajee" — the mountain rat — is in itself the history
of the highland ridges and hill-forts of Maharashtra —
"the land of forts." It well merits the appellation, as it
has been estimated to contain upwards of one thousand
forts from the Tapti to the Toomboodra. On this subject
enough has probably been said in Vol. I., and it is not
proposed here to attempt more than the reproduction
of a few views taken during my cursory visits to this
country side.

No. 159— PERTABGHUR, from Mahabuleshwar.

M
XXVIII,- VIEW FROM THE WESTERN GHAUTS, MAHTERAN'.

Wmm$,

Chapter L] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India.

On the Western Ghauts — the Syhoodria or Sahyadri
Mountains as termed by the Hindoos — the stations of
Mahabuleshwar and Mahteran have afforded me such
views, each of which embraces a fortress characteristic of
these marches — Pertabghur and Raighur. These forts
each possess a history illustrative of old Mahratta life
and times; abbreviated descriptions of which have been
already given; in fact, an ample notice of the "Hill Forts
of the Dekhan" may be found in Vol. I., "Highlands of
India," pages 173—84.
Pertabghur was the scene of the "wagnuk" murder by
Seevajee of Afzul Khan in 1659, and so associated with
his rise to power, whilst Raighur was his regal residence
after attaining it.
These few words, together with the few other incidental
notices of Dekhan forts interspersed in the text, may,
perhaps, here be accepted by the reader as sufficient.

^^£S&~^-'~*'

¥>' O.N

No. 160— FORT OF RAIGHUR IN THE CONCAN, from the Western Ghauts.
In regard to the game and sport to be found in this
district, I will now supplement this very brief notice of an

394 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. & XIV.
interesting subject by the experiences of a brother — the
author of the "Eastern Hunters" — who early in life ex
plored and hunted these countries, especially the district
of the Concan subtending Raighur, to which I have
alluded. I am privileged to reproduce his sporting
sketch, kindly written at my request, as follows, —
SKETCH OP A TEIP
PEOM BOMBAY TO THE DEKHAN
by Rayghur (Raighur).
Many years ago — so many, indeed, that the bloom, which gave
brightness and glow to those happy expeditions of early manhood
has faded,- and left nought but the dry and withered facts — it was
my fortune, or, as I then considered it my misfortune — for I was
devoted to field sports — to be a unit of the Bombay garrison.
In the month of April I was joined by a younger brother
arrived from England, appointed to the artillery, and we con
sidered that his best route to join the head-quarters at Ahmed-
nugger lay not by the usual road, but through the Concan and
the Ghauts, where bears and other game were to be had. Ac
cordingly I obtained leave for the month of May, and with him
and an old school-friend — also belonging to the Bombay garri
son, and since a distinguished leader in Jacob's Scinde Horse —
chartered a bunder-boat of the period, and sailed out of harbour
with the tide on the afternoon, after muster. The land-wind sent
us briskly along that night, and next morning we opened the
small river called, I think, Savitri, distant from Bombay about
seventy miles, and, crossing the bar and leaving a ruined Portu
guese fort on our right, reached the town of Mhai that afternoon.
Thence we marched to the village of Mungroom, situated a short
distance from the base of that block of mountain on which is
situated the celebrated hill fort of Rayghur (Raighur), so associ
ated with the name of the great Mahratta chief Seevajee. Viewed
from our little camp it presented the appearance of a huge
isolated mountain mass rising abruptly from the Concan level ; a
line of wall, with what appeared to be bastions, crowned the

Chapter l] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India. 395
scarped rock to the left ; the whole upper part of the mass being
similarly scarped, but with an irregular outline broken by many
clefts and fissures. This precipitous wall became merged, lower
down, in rounded jungle-covered slopes, and ravines ; and these
again in the lower hills and undulations, which extended to the
track of somewhat level and cultivated lands in the vicinity of the
village, and which might be termed the plain of the Concan.
We beat amongst the lower hills for a panther, whose presence
had been reported to us, but without success. Having no regular
professional shikaries with us, and finding that either there was
but little game about — or at any rate the villagers could not show
it to us — we determined to ascend the ghauts, and make the best
of our way to some country above, where, in the preceding year, a
party of us from Poona had killed half-a-dozen bears and some
sambur. One little incident occurs to me. My young brother
brought down a kite on the wing with a ball. For so young and
inexperienced a sportsman this we all thought gave great promise
of one who, a few years afterwards, killed tigers right and left.
In the river bed at this place were some fine deep pools, and we
were amused at the natives' mode of diving feet foremost into one
of them.
Leaving Rayghur (Raighur) on our left, we marched up a
valley to the foot of the ghauts, passing in view of several
strangely shaped isolated masses of mountain, and camping that
night in the neighbourhood of a few native huts. The headman
brought us a "nuzzur" or gift of four hen's eggs, a scarce article
in that remote locality. We drew lots as to who should become
the happy possessor of the fourth egg, and I was successful ; but
both my eggs were bad, and each of my companions' good.
The wild mountain path up the ghauts was long, and in some
parts very difficult, but we reached the upper land without any
special adventure, and revelled in the pleasant change of climate
-from the stifling heat below. It was very marked, and we especi
ally noticed it in the coldness of the water which, by comparison,
felt ice-like. Thence we marched to the village of Mungroom,
and, in the neighbouring hills, killed three bears in the course of
the following eight days. The death of two of these is perhaps
worthy of being recorded. Two bears were marked down in a
tract of thick jungle with some open patches on the slope of the

396 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII.& XIV.
hill to one side. In positions covering these my brother and I
were posted, while our friend commanded a ravine above. Soon
after the beat commenced we saw the bears moving in the jungle,
but refrained from firing, and were shortly rewarded for our self-
restraint by seeing both of them charge out across one of these
open patches in our direction. It was the day of muzzle-loaders;
and we quickly put in our four barrels. The leading bear fell
dead, the second, hard hit, rose on his hind legs and then fell on
his prostrate companion, clawing at it and roaring vigorously. It
then made off back to the jungle, and having reloaded, we fol
lowed, and soon came upon it lying dead.
We shortly after marched to Poona, en route passing near the
fort of Singhur, another of those renowned hill-forts with which
the name of Seevajee is so intimately associated.
The linguistic limits of Maharashtra extend across the
Nerbudda to Oojein on the north, and I have therefore
associated the watersheds of the Nerbudda and Tapti as
Chapter 2 of this section. On the south the linguistic
line may be considered to extend as far, perhaps, as Beja-
poor and the Toomboodra.
The Western Ghauts, or Syhoodria Mountains, extend
geologically in fact as far as Cape Comorin from north of
Bombay. The whole of the littoral of the Malabar coast
is, with one great break — that of Ponanny, near the Nil
gherry plateau — one continuous range. The two points
selected — Mahabuleshwar and Mahteran — may be taken
as examples of the sort of hill-stations these mountains
contain, and the view from them of the lower hills sub
tending assuredly warrants their being considered "High
lands of India." I regret that my knowledge of them
does not suffice to supply hunting experience beyond the
occasional glimpse of a kakur deer or two, seen during
my rides about, and the bag of a few jungle fowl shot dur
ing my morning walks on these mountains. I will here,
however, give what I may term "A Day on the Western

Chapter l.] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India.

397

Ghauts," as a fair exemplar of a day's work during the
fortnight in which I resided upon them, viz., about a
week at each.
A Day's Walk on the Western Ghauts.
After an early breakfast let us suppose the author and
a young companion — M. of the Bombay artillery — start
ing for a good day's walk on the ghauts, the edge of the
Syhoodria mountains overlooking the Concan. Passing
along the arches of the forest, under the knarled and
twisted trees which guard the entrance to "Tiger Walk,"
we thread the "leafy shades" which intervene between
the station of Mahabuleshwar and the edge of the plateau
— some two miles, if my memory serves — by the circui
tous jungle path we adopt. The track leads through
dense undergrowth, on which the dews of morning still

§Wmm

wm

mm

mSSamaemm

¦¦HBS8FHI
No. Wl-TIGER WALK, MAHABULESHWAR.

398 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. & XIV.
glisten in the early sunbeam, and amidst which the
occasional rush or scurry of some sylvan creature evi
dences life in the otherwise silent jungle. We emerge on
to some extensive clearings, on which a fine description
of potato, quite celebrated in Western India, is grown.
Soon, however, we turn north, where we strike the edge
of the ghauts, whose basaltic cliffs tower over the low
lands of the Concan above which they rise 3000 feet or
more. What a view! The rolling Concan with its varied
features is spread at one's feet like a map projected on
orthographic scale, lit by the glory of the morning sun
just risen above the mountains of the north east. The
long shadows are to the left. We pause and gaze on the
magnificent panorama; soon, however, pursuing our path
along the winding crest of the bluff, we turn the tortuous
river, which, rising under the cliffs of the Syhoodrias,
winds through the reaches of the Concan close under the
flat plateau which holds the ruins of "Pertabghur," that
historical fortress alluded to at page 392.
Near the bluff where we stand juts forth the spur on
which is found that fatal point from which some fair girl
— an English lady I believe — either dazed or rendered
giddy by the fatal fascination of the abyss, precipitated
herself. 1 do not rightly know the exact particulars, but
of the general truth of the legend there seems no question,
and no doubt the term "Louisa point" still preserves the
name of the unfortunate heroine of this sad event.
We gaze long at the noble view, and take sketches both
pictorial and mental of the surroundings. A few jungle
fowl may have fluttered across our path as we emerged
from the forest, or a mountain jackal slinking home from
his prowl above the ghauts may perhaps be seen stealing
down towards his lair under the basaltic cliff; or even a
kakur (barking deer) be viewed as he dashes out of the

Chapter 1.] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India. 399
forest towards the grass-clothed broken "kudd." A few
mountain birds — dwellers of the crevices or long grass
and seul, which clothes the sides of the Syhoodria — may
be noticed and heard down the slopes; and, level with us
as we stand on the ridge 3000 feet above the Ioav country
subtending us, the eagle of the ghaut may be descried
poised in mid air over the Concan, looking out for his
morning's prey; or the osprey may be made out towards
the sea, which glitters over the date-palm-tufted hills in
the far horizon.
But the day grows hot apace! we must push on, hav
ing miles to cover yet ere we reach our contemplated
midday halting place ! We resume our walk along the
crest of the ghauts, over whose inland plateaux, grassy
roads — marked out by parallel stones at intervals by the
early engineers of those hill-stations — lead us over miles
of country of varied interest. My companion having en
gagements in the station returns to Mahabuleshwar,
leaving me to pursue my solitary walk. Leisurely do I
saunter along, resting at intervals to note the surround
ings — a delightful experience this of new mountains and
points of interest fresh to my knowledge ! I need
scarcely detail, or even endeavour to further describe the
grand views opening out at every step from this magnifi
cent speculum or standpoint. They will suggest them
selves to the reader. It needs no word-painting to clothe
such outlines in light and shade and colour! The words
of Lucretius, that philosophic lover of the picturesque; or
of old Longinus — he of the "sublime and beautiful" —
could not but occur to one, and paraphrases of their
words, mixed, however, with the thoughts of more
modern poets, perhaps more true to nature than even
those ancient worthies, for, indeed, the appreciation of
nature, for its own sake, seems a modern development,

400 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. &XIV.
After a long — shall I say philosophic — walk, extended
to the north of the plateau into the late afternoon, I had
to return towards the station, and turning inland towards
the little village of Mahabuleshwar, which is two or three
miles to the north-west of it, find myself, as "evenmg
shadows fall," within the precincts of the temple and
tank which encloses the, head spring of the great river
Krishna (or Kistnah as the maps have it). Arrived here
about sunset, I am fain to rest a wee, and consider the
birthplace of the great river, which, issuing from this in
land slope of the Syhoodrias, so near to the Western
Ocean, traces its way through such varied scenes, till it
finally falls into the Bay of Bengal, seven hundred miles
or more from the little pool on the brink of which I stand.
Moralists have likened the course of a great river to
that of a human life; and there are, no doubt, points of
analogy apt to the hand of the poet in the idea: some
such thoughts were evoked in the author on viewing the
Jhelum in Cashmere, and may be found at page 38 of
this volume, but he has stood on many river sources in
his day! Much might be written on the career of the
Krishna; from its cradle on the Syhoodria slopes the
river winds down the beautiful wooded vale of Waee
under the reverse bluff of Mahabuleshwar, laving with
its waters Waee and its time-hallowed temples round the
base of the Pussurni Ghaut — whence one ascends to Ma
habuleshwar, — winds under "Pandoghur," alluded to in
the last chapter as the abode of the errant Pandaus,
thence "passes on south, to fulfil its destiny of watering a
vast tract of country, to its debouchment into the Indian
Ocean on the Coromandel coast," watering many a famous
city and fertile field, — through many a dreary reach of
arid scrub and deadly jungle, and stony chasm! Enough!
It has escaped from our exact subject, "The Highlands,"
and from them it has rushed to the far south.

Chapter l] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India. 401
Leaving the "khoond" (spring-head), where a poorly
kept shrine is served by a few aged Brahmins, I wait till
the cool shades of evening have sobered the landscape,
and then stroll back across the inward slopes of the
mountain to a meditative pipe and "mine ease at mine
inn," at the travellers' bungalow or rest-house in the
station. The above little sketch of a day's walk at Mahabulesh
war might be supplemented by a somewhat similar day's
outing at Mahteran, which I visited still earlier in life —
in the days when the forest about it was far more strik
ing than at Mahabuleshwar, in addition to an equal or
even more beautiful outlook over the Concan subtending
it. Here, also, I enjoyed some glorious early morning
strolls, gun in hand. A few kakur deer, jungle fowl, and
spur fowl, of both the true and spangled variety, were
at that time to be found on the plateau and amongst the
surrounding woods, and I recollect many shots at them,
with tolerable success. The walk, however, was the early
sportsman's chief reward, and the views from the bluff of
Mahteran are, to my thinking, even finer than those from
lofty Mahabuleshwar. One finds the same rolling palm-
dotted Concan, with its ruined forts; and here fantastic
peaks of weather-worn disintegrated laterite alternate
with the basaltic axis of the buttress cliff itself. The
view of the western littoral comprises the Bassein roads,
dotted with many a sail and native craft, and the distant
glimpses of Bombay harbour with its tufted islands and
palm-date studded coast. The coast line may hence be
traced as far as the Balasore roads, a "lovely island-stud
ied littoral of tufted bluffs, bays, islands, and palm-
" covered promontories. Here detached laterite and other
"rocks crop out like pyramids, and form fantastic gables
Bb

402

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. & XIV.

" towards the setting sun — a weird sight, when the grey
"evening shadows are creeping over the landscape, and
"the fiery disc of the sun is sinking behind the flat-topped
"hills of the Concan into the Western Ocean!"
The sketches given will supplement the slender ma
terial I have been able to reproduce on this subject, and
the reader must be referred to the corresponding section
in Vol. I., where the "Hill-forts of the Dekhan" have
been treated of at some length, and their military features
dwelt on.* Mention may, perhaps, be made here of Sin-
ghur, Torna, Amberkhind, Mander Deo, and of the hill of
Pandoghur, near Waee, celebrated as the place of resi
dence of the erratic Pandaus, of whom we have so many
traces throughout the "Highlands of India."
* Vol. I., page 113 et seq.

No. 16?— BOMBAY HARBOUR,

(403)

CHAPTER 2.
The Vindhya, Sathpoora, and Kymore Hills — Pachmari
and the basins of the Nerbudda, Tapti, and Godavery
— The Plateaux of Omerkantuk and Seoni — The
Watershed of Central India — Bhima, the Pandau.
IN Chapter 2 of this section the reproduction of a feAV
sketches must suffice, as the author — except as a
traveller passing through the country — has no sufficient
experience to warrant a detailed picturesque description.
A glance at the Nerbudda and its "marble rocks," a fairy
like scene as viewed by us, both from land and boat, one

-;- , r>, 35 J1 f-\

No. 163— THE PACHMARI ESCARPMENT.
moonlit evening. Lower down, where the sacred river
cuts the Mahadeo hills, is the great scarp of Pachmari.
Still further west, toAvards the sea, the rugged Vindhyas,
with their fantastic crests and pinnacles, and bastions, on
which the remains of decayed fortresses attest the esti-
Bb2

404

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. &XIV.

mation in which this line of wild acclivities was held by
warring races of old. Sketches of such points will convey
the only further impression I can give of this region be
yond the curt notice to be found in Vol. I. of these and
the associated mountains and rivers of Maharashtra.

 c«l

No. 164-0/V THE RIVER NERBUDDA,— VINDHYA MOUNTAINS.
Once, however — in days before the completion of the
Bombay and Agra line of rail rendered the two termini,
Nagpore and Jubbulpore, things of the past — did the
author himself pass across the Seoni plateau which
divides them. Leaving Nagpore in the afternoon of
Christmas eve, 1869 — that year of famine — and accom
panied by his wife, the author committed himself to the
tender mercies of a dak gharry, and set his face to the
east. Passing the cavalry station of Kamptee in the late
afternoon, we found ourselves in the wilds of Seoni in the
pale moonlight of an Indian winter. A fortunate circum
stance, perhaps, as tigers have been known to walk the
roads hereabouts, and even attack travellers. No such
apprehension, however, occupied our minds, though we a
little felt the loneliness of a Christmas eve spent in such

Chapter 2.] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India. 405
inhospitable regions. However, we drew up our gharry
at a romantic spot on the wild mountain road, and under
the clear moon of India — having a few European luxuries
with us — partook of an excellent make-shift repast; and
I am not sure but what we enjoyed it all the more from
its irregularity and abnormal surroundings. Arriving
at Jubbulpore during the night, we next day visited the
"marble rocks," enjoying a second vision of moonlit
landscape at that picturesque reach of the Nerbudda, a
sketch of part of which is presented at the head of this
chapter of the section. Marble in its primitive state is
here. A night later, the Taj at Agra — that "dream of
marble," as it has been called — completed our enjoyment
of the moon of December, 1869. There are points in life
to which memory reverts with much satisfaction, and I
am often led to recollections of this particular moonlit
journey with softened interest.
Lower down the country, along the valley of the Sone,
the Kymore Hills, a branch of the Vindhyas, extend nearly
to the Ganges. Radiating from Omerkantuk and the
watershed plateau of Central India, they are at first up
wards of 2000 feet in altitude; rugged, forest-covered,
here full of game. The great old ruin of Rhotasghur may
be instanced as a wonderful enceinte of crenalated ram
part, enclosing an area of not less than twenty-five miles,
or more, in circumference, within which — as also in the
circumjacent jungles — game of various kinds abound;
spotted deer are especially numerous, and where they are,
tigers are sure to follow en suite. The steep cliffs of the
Kymore bound the river basin of the S6ne, in whose
waters mahaseer and murrul abound, and trout-like fish
of the genus ciprinidse.
As regards the Central Indian plateau quoted at the
head of this chapter, the reader may be referred to

406

its- „

No. 165— Powerghur Hill, Vindhyas,
from the valley of Sooki.
of the natural features
India."

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. &XIV.
"The Highlands of Central
India," by Temple, and
"Seoni," by Sterndale, both
pleasant writers on this par
ticular district.
To conclude this section
an extract from "Tales of
the Pandaus" (by a "Wan
dering Cimmerian"), will be
given, as — though quasi-
fabulous — fairly descriptive
the "Watershed of Central

of

* * * Bhima dwelt in Maharashtra, in the wild Sahyadri
Mountains which bound the vale of Waee, where the hill of
Pandoghur still bears the name of the errant chiefs, and where
the heroes are still worshipped as ancestors in its temples.
In the land where, ages after, great Seevajee, the " Mountain
Rat," led his brave Mahrattas to regain their freedom, where
black basalt and red laterite cliffs crop out amidst the forests of
Sahyadri and Maharashtra like giant pyramids athwart the deep
blue sky, the Pandau brethren dwelt, and brooded on the coming
day which should restore their broken fortunes.
From Mahabuleshwar — great mountain of strength and power
— Bhima looked forth over the black waters of the western ocean,
then just beginning to darken under the blast of the approaching
monsoon, and pondered many things ; and his soul kindled as he
recalled to mind that the time neared in which it behoved the
five Pandau brethren to return from exile and assert their rights
in face of the usurping Koraus.
On his return to his castle-home one eve, the chief found await
ing him a messenger from the great Yudishtir, his elder brother,
exhorting him to repair to the hills of Kumaon, there to levy war
to meet the foe after eighteen moons had sped. Whereupon he
called his Pandau brethren, who dwelt with him, and consulted
also the chiefs who had followed his fortunes in exile, and they
had said — "First let us consult the champion Krishna, who

Chapter 2.] Mdhdrdshtrd and Central India. 407
"haunts the banks of his loved Yamuna, but visits also the
"valleys of the Godavery and Kishtna, which rush forth from
"the western mountains of Inyadri and Sahyadri hereabouts."
At the Pussurni defile Krishna led the dance in the beautiful
vale of Waee, his temporary abode, and soon the hero Bhima
found the merry champion. He spake — " I say not, brave Bhima,
"that I will assist Yudishtir, thy melancholy brother, for Krishna
"loves not sorrow and needless gloom. Seek thou first my friend
"and pupil, thy brother, the valiant Arjuna, and Sediva his friend.
" Who known ? he may persuade me to join thy host in arms.
" But first go thou forth through the forests of Nerbudda and of
" Omerkantuk. To the south thou wilt find great Hanuman and
" the Vanapiitras — children of the forest. Seek thou the advice
"and the alliance of great Hanuman, the friend of Rama!"
In the wild forests which clothe the banks of the sacred God
avery — holiest of rivers — southward of Goondwana, in the
densest shades, dwelt the Vanaputras (children of the woods),
Bheels, Goonds, or Santhals. Of these wild tribes great Hanu
man was king. Whether he, the ally of Rama — since worshipped
as the Monkey-Deity — or his descendant, the legend telleth not;
though a demi-god may well be credited with longevity, and have
lived the ten generations since great Rama lived on earth. Be it
so: what then? An aged warrior chief, whose age exceeded that
of man, and who had fought in the wars of Lankapoora and Sing-
hala, centuries before the epoch of Yudishtir, still lived on earth.
Therefore the war-chief Bhima sought his aged kinsman in the
deep forest solitudes, where he dwelt, to consult him as to the
forthcoming war against the Koraus. The aged chieftain's
country extended from the wild west mountains of Siigriva and
Carnata, even to Omerkantuk and the eastern mountains of
Vindhya, of Seoni and of Goomeh. Originally commander-in-
chief of the armies of the Toombudra and of Carnata, since the
war great Hanuman had seized the kingdom, and establishing a
sylvan monarchy, now ruled the wild tribes of the south from sea
to sea.
In a remote tangle of hills his stronghold reared its turrets
above the forest ; the approaches, unknown save to the sons of
the wilderness who served the chief, were guarded by fierce Vana
putras — called like their chief also Hanumans — monkeys of the

408

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XIII. & XIV.

wilderness ; such as they doubtless seemed to their more civilized
allies, the proud and high-born Rajpoots of the north, descended
from the Sun and Moon : but ever unsubdued, these children of
the forest, and a terror both to friend and foe !
Arrived at Omerkantuk, great Bhima paused, set up his tent,
and sought an oracle from the shrine of Durga on its summit.
The goddess spake: — "O Pandau! advance on the meridian of
" Oojein 45 koss s.w., till Canopus gleams at sunset over the
"lofty sandal tree which impends over the sacred stream of Ma-
"hanuddie; thence turn west, and take thy bow; discharge
" three arrows successively over the lofty tree with thine utmost
"strength, oh Vrikddam,* and on the spot where the furthest
"falls, seek further guidance to the presence of great Hanuman."
The chief advanced according to the oracle, and on the third
day at even found the omens good. Arrived, he drew the bow,
and the arrows whistled through the leaves cf the sacred neeni-
tree. Lost to sight in air the arrows sped, and each fell ten fur
longs beyond the last, two koss within the forest shades. To this
day the Pandau's bow-shot is shewn to the sons of the stranger
who visit those deep shades.
* A name of Bhima, signifying "great eater."

No. 160-THE MAHADEO OR PACHMARI HILLS FROM THE SOUTH,
showing the great escarpment.

( 409 )

SECTION XV.
RAJASTHAN

The Vindhyas to the Aravellis — The Uper-mdl and the
Rocks of Rajpootana, etc. — Mount Aboo and the
Aravellis — Gwalior — A Ride along the Aravellis.
A TRI-
XLangle,whose base
rested on the
Vindhya Mountains— properly
so called, a-
long the val-
-7 ley of the
<" Nerbudda,
'J-- and whose
'^apex would
be near Jai-
pore or Aj-
mere, would
comprehend
a tableland
roughly em
bracing Mal-
wa — enclos-

No. 167— Temple at summit of Mount Aboo (Gooru-Sikur).

ed by mountain ranges. called the "Uper-mal" (or "High
lands"), the northern point of which region is called
"Kantel," and is inhabited by Bheels and Mhairs. The
Harrowtie (or Mokundra) Hills, the Chitore Hills, and

410

The Highlands of India. [Section XV.

others are subsidiary ranges interposed between the
Vindhyas and the Aravellis, of one or either of which
they may be considered offsets. Chitore, Kotah, Boondi,
Jaipore, Oojein, Bonair, Ajmere, and other remarkable
cities are included in this mountain track. The Chum-
bul and Bunass rivers traverse it.

_rS_

No. IM—VIEW ON THE RIVER BUNASS, RAJPOOTANA.
"Tod" is, of course, the great authority on Rajasthan,
and the reader may be referred to his interesting and
learned work.* The only part of the country on which
the author is at all competent to write with personal
knowledge is Aboo and the Aravellis as far as Ajmere,
and, perhaps, Gwalior on the east, to Baroda on the west
at which latter place he once enjoyed an interesting day's
cheetah hunt with the Guicowar, described at another
place by a more competent companion.
As regards sport, although the author has passed
through portions of this country along the marches both
on its north and south, still his experience is so. limited

* Tod's "Rajasth&n," from which notices of a few points will be found
in an Appendix to this section.

Section XV.]

Rajasthdn.

411

that he must trust to the pen of a talented brother* —
formerly an active Assistant in the Rajpootana Political
Agency — for a few notices on this district, whose salient
features have been, however, succinctly described in the
corresponding section of Vol. I., "Highlands of India."
A note on "Sport in Rajpootana" is accordingly given
in an Appendix to this section.

No. 169— LAKE AT MOUNT ABOO, ARAVELLIS.
Reverting to Mount Aboo, at page 205, Vol. I., are the
following remarks: "In the adjacent forests — toAvards
"Oodipore — are some very remarkable ancient cities and
"temples, now for several centuries overwhelmed by
"dense forest, especially 'Chandraolis' (or Chandravatif),
"some twelve or twenty miles south-east of Aboo. In

* Author of the "Eastern Hunters," several scenes of which work are
laid in Rajpootana.
t Chandravati was the chief city of the Pramaras,
Chitore ,, ,, Gehlots or Seesoodias.
Anhalwara ,, ,, Salauk (Balharas),
Kotah ,, ,, Chohans,
Boondi (whose palace with its hanging gardens, like ancient Babylon, is
still quite one of the sights of India) was the chief city of the Haras.
Chitore, in its flourishing days, is stated to have comprised eighty-four
castles, and the capitol of the Harihars twenty-four.

412

The Highlands of India. [Section XV.

"1860 the writer of this paper hunted them up with a
"line of thirty Bheels, and lived for three days in the
"principal temple. It was apparently a Jain temple, and
"surrounded by cloisters, in one of the cells of which we
"found a half-eaten 'sambur' (deer) which had evidently
"been dragged there by a tiger or leopard, whose lair it
"constituted. I mention this to show the wildness of the
"place, and to note the existence of large game in this
"district; which, besides tigers, contains leopards, bears,
"and the other usual denizens of an Indian forest."

y^=f ^JLEE \ __v

No. m-DISTANT VIEW OF THE ARAVELLI RANGE.

Well do I recollect the wild escort of Bheels, armed
cap-a-pied, who accompanied me in this forest. Carrying
my rifle myself as I advanced in front of the line, my
only Hindoo servant having my spare gun close behind
me, two henchmen (Bheels) advancing close on my right
and left rear as supports, their bows strung, with arrows
fitted on the string, at what may be called "full-cock."
These are supposed to be devoted ones, ready to assail
any impending foe, and I have no doubt would have vin
dicated their character as brave allies had the opportunity
occurred, but during my short progress no wild beast or
Bheel presented himself. "The Bheels, Vanapootras
"('children of the forest' as they style themselves), are a
"brave, dogmatic race of little men." The Rajpoot clans,
with whom they are on jealous terms, affect to despise,

Chapter l] Rajasthdn. 413
but in reality fear the little men, with whom the blow
precedes the word — so unlike Indians in general — and
who do not scruple to use their bow and arrows on the
smallest provocation. Like many oppressed populations,
they are shy and distrustful, but faithful when once their
confidence is secured.
Several villages of very wild Bheels are found in these
jungles, who will, unless the traveller be escorted by some
such posse- as I have introduced, let fly their arrows at
strangers without any provocation whatever, in the spirit,
I suppose, of the British navvie who "heaves 'arf a brick"
at the stranger! On the Deesa and Aboo tracks I have
heard of syces travelling along the forest road, with their
masters' horses, being occasionally scared by an arrow
flying across the path and quivering in a tree overhead,
but it did not appear in such cases that the Bheel was
actuated with a spirit of robbery or aggression, but would
seem rather to be "taking a rise" out of the Hindoo syce
"for a lark." So much for the Bheels of the Aravelli
forests. Taraghur, the fort which occupies the bluff of the Ara
velli mountains dominating Ajmere, has been mentioned
in Vol. I. Gwalior is another vast island fortress to the
south-east of this region. The rock on which it is built
may, perhaps, be considered an offset of the Harrowtie or
Kymore hills, both of which are, in fact, themselves off
sets of the Vindhyas.
In foot note to Illustration LXIIL, page 202 of Vol. I.,
I see the following note: — "It is essentially a feature of a
"Rajpoot fort that the town or village is clustered round
"the base of the rock on which it stands. In predatory
"times the chiefs followers would naturally seek pro-
"tection under the aegis of his stronghold."
Further to the east, an example of this is presented in

414

The Highlands of India. [Section XV.

the great rock fortress of Gwalior, already mentioned,
which is one and a quarter mile in length. Under each
end a city has been built, that at the west end being the
luskhur or camp of the Mahratta prince "Scindia," whose
capitol it forms at the present day. These cities lie under
the mercy of the guns of the fortress. It may be added
that the author, whilst in command of this interesting
fortress, commenced the early chapters of the present
work.

No. 171— EXAMPLE OF A RAJPOOT FORT, BONAIR.
A sketch of this grand isolated rock — taken from the
adjacent military station of Morar — is given at the head
of this chapter. It may be regarded as a part of the
"Highlands of India," in that it is, as before stated, pro
bably a geological offset of the Vindhyas. It was occupied
by Rajpoots (followed by Mahomedans and Mahrattas) for
nearly twenty centuries, originating in times before the
Christian era.
The fire from this great fortress could sweep the whole*
country round for several miles, and — were its base only
secured from sudden attack — is practically impregnable.
The British brigade at Morar could also be protected by
the fire from its ramparts, whose guns could throw shot

Section XV.]

Rajasthdn.

415

quite over the cantonment of Morar, and effectually dis
lodge any enemy occupying it, or cover the retreat of
the British brigade seeking the security of its Avails.
I have occasionally sat on the rampart of this fort and
viewed the two brigades — that of Morar (commanded by
my distinguished old friend, the gallant but fiery W.O.)
and Scindia's— manoeuvring within easy cannon shot of
each other, and both occasionally skirmishing up to
within the zone of the outworks of the fortress. I have
pictured to myself what a strange "triangular duel"
might result from the occurrence of combinations far
from impossible, and how interesting a military position
might be created by any abnormal action on the part of
Scindia or his subjects under the circumstances set forth.

3s?L '" " .<9?,"M
No. 172— PROFILE OF THE GWALIOR ROCK ON THE SOUTH-EAST.
I have always regarded Gwalior — with an hour's notice
— as impregnable, and often thought that a few shells
ranged along the crest of the parapet of my own quarters,
which overlooked the main gateway, would be quite
enough — aided with a slight rifle fire — to render the ap
proach of an enemy impossible. Lighted by one's cigar,

416 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
as one calmly paced the ramparts, these shells simply
pushed over the rocks, would almost suffice to defend
the vital point.
As regards game, the lion used to be found in this
district. My old friend, Dan. R, of the engineers, being
employed on" survey duties about five miles from Gwalior,
about the year 1862, chanced upon a family of five lions,
of which he actually bagged three or four, by the merest
chance. I have not heard that the lion has been seen
since in this district.
Whilst the author was commandant of the fort of
Gwalior, he made it his duty — accompanied by Lascars
and a ladder — to circumambulate and examine the base
of the rock, much of which lies hidden by scrub; the
entire enceinte of this vast fortress externally extends to
several miles, and we found in addition to strange spiral
caves winding into the rock itself, and excavations con
taining idols — the caves of hyaenas, jackals, and porcu
pines at places all round the base of this vast rock, whose
base in many places was hidden in scrub and jungle.
This fortress possesses a history extending to a period
before the dawn of the Christian era— an epitome of
which is given in the index — and to the author's think
ing, it is one of the most extraordinary points of archaeo
logical interest in India, containing, as it does, so many
temples and structures of different epochs, illustrating
the dynasties of Rajpoots, Jains, and Mahomedans, which
successively reigned. Each Raja or Nawab seems to
have added a temple, or a tank, or a bastion, an idol, or a
palace to the great structure, which thus embraces an
extraordinary agglomeration of architectural variety,
amongst which the gigantic idols of the "happy valley,"
a portion of the fortress within the girdling outer walls,
are not the least curious.

Section XV.]

Rajasthdn.

417

The author was the' last European dweller amongst the
decaying palaces of the north-east end of this Mahratta
fortress, which, though still flying Scindia's flag, is at the
present day occupied by British troops.* It commands
the whole country round, and is capable of laying the
Luskhur (Scindia's capitol) in ashes in a few hours if
need should be, including the grand new palace lately
built by Scindia, under its shadow, at the south-east
angle of the fortress.

No. 173— SCINDIA'S NEW PALACE, GWALIOR.
Some account of the Rajpoot tribes, who with Bheels,
Mhairs, etc., constitute the bulk of the inhabitants, will
be found in Vol. I., "Highlands of India," and I will
supplement these brief and vagrant notes on Rajpootana
by the following quotation from "Tod," who compares
the superstitions of the Rajpoot with those of the Scythic
Gote. — He says: —
Both are burned or buried in full armour, and his horse accom-

* Since the above was written the restoration of this fortress to
Scindia has added still more interest to this position, and the remarks
ventured on page 415 are rendered still more pertinent as bearing on
its military aspect.
Cc

418 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
panied the dead warrior to his tomb. Amongst the altars on
which burned the beauteous and the brave, the harpy (dhakun) or
the vampire — the jigger-khore of India — stalks forth to devour the
hearts of her victims. The Rajpoot never enters these places of
silence but to perform stated rites, or to deposit offerings of
flowers and water to the manes of his ancestors. Odin guarded
his warriors' final abode from rapine by means of " wandering
fires," which played around the tombs ; and the Rajpoot "shah-
aba" or wandering meteoric fires on the field of battle and in
places of great sacrifice — produce a pleasing yet melancholy effect
— and are the source of superstitious dread and reverence to the
Hindoo, having their origin in the same natural cause as the
"wandering fires of Odin," the phosphorescent salts produced
from animal decomposition.
The Scandinavian rears the tumulus over the ashes of the dead ;
so did the Gote of the Jaxartes and the officiating priests of
Hari, the Hindoo God of Battle. The tumulus is still raised in
Rajpootana over the Rajpoot who falls in battle.
At Gwalior — on the east side of that famed fortress, where
myriads of warriors have fattened the soil — these phosphorescent
lights often present a singular appearance. I have, with friends
whose eyes this will meet, marked the procession of these lam
bent night fires, becoming extinguished at one place and rising
at another, which, aided by the unequal locale, have been fre
quently mistaken for the Mahratta prince returning with his
numerous torch-bearers from a distant day's sport. I have dared
as bold a Rajpoot as ever lived to approach them, whose sense
of the levity of my desire was strongly depicted both in speech
and mien. "Men he would encounter, but not the spirits of those
erst slain in battle." It was generally about the conclusion of
the rains that these lights were observed, when evaporation took
place from these marshy grounds impregnated with salts.
I will conclude this chapter with
"A Ride Along the Aravellis."
In April, 1861, being at Mount Aboo in Rajpootana, it
became necessary for me, in order to keep muster of the

Section XV.] Rajasthdn. 419
first of May, to return to Peshawur on the north-west
frontier of the Punjaub, whence I had rushed down the
preceding December, travelling day and night to attend
at the sick bed of a valued brother, who had met with a
terrible accident at Ajmere.
On entering Rajpootana I had travelled, by favour of
the various Residents of the Rajpoot states by the state
carriages, and had been coached in great style from Agra
via Bhurtpore, Jaipore, and onwards. On the frontiers
of the last named state I found as many as one hundred
and fifty horses ready for me to "lay out" towards the
capitol (Jaipore), towards which I accordingly next day
continued my journey, surging through the sand, and
jolting over the rugged sandy track in a coach and six of
most primitive character. Arrived at Jaipore I found an
Arab horse and an elephant placed at my disposal by the
Maharajah or Resident, and by the combined action of
these two animals I did Jaipore, visiting Amber, the an
cient fortress, and the whole vicinity in great comfort.
Jaipore is, I think, the best kept and handsomest town I
have seen in India. However, time was valuable, and
next day I pushed on in a buggy and pair to within
twenty miles of Nusseerabad, where my poor brother was
lying ill. At this point I found his horse ready for me
to ride in on, so mounting "Lottery," off I gallopped
across country. On the road I passed an immense herd
of antelopes, certainly not less than two hundred in
number. The herd dashed across the road a hundred
yards or so in front of me, and so excited "Lottery" that
he got the pull of me, and for the first (and last) time ran
away with me across country in pursuit. Away we went
at racing pace, and never did I have such an opportunity
of observing these beautiful creatures at speed. In for
mer days I had certainly hunted small herds, rifle in
J Cc2

420 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
hand, and had even cut off young fawns from the herd,
but "never aught like this." After a run of two or three
miles I succeeded in pulling up, and with difficulty re^
found the track.
"Lottery" and I had many a subsequent gallop together,
but the little Arab, having been so long in lavender dur
ing my poor brother's illness, was mad for a gallop, and
certainly showed me on that occasion what a plucky
high-caste Arab could do in that way. He is the princi
pal equine figure in the subsequent acts of this little
sketch of "A Ride Along the Aravellis."
Having escorted my invalid brother — after a long, try
ing, critical illness, safe to Mount Aboo — I had to think
of my return north, and accordingly decided to ride up
to Nusseerabad on my brother's two horses, now, alas,
useless to him— supplemented by two sowari camels for
my servants and light baggage. Carrying out this pro
ject, I did the two hundred and fifty miles in five days,
and never travelled more comfortably in my life. After
passing Sirohi, at Palee I found Sir George and Lady
Lawrence, at whose hands I experienced much kindness,
and was provisioned only two well for my subsequent
voyage of four days. Sir George even pressed me to re
turn with them to Mount Aboo, and take up my brother's
appointment, which he, poor fellow, could not hope to
retain under the circumstances, though actually sitting
up in bed to perform the epistolary portions of his duties.
I had to decline this most kind overture, and proceeded
onwards. Riding off daily before sunrise on "Lottery," I would
generally cover thirty miles before the sun got very hot,
always finding either a travellers' bungalow or some iso
lated big tree under which to breakfast. Oh! those
breakfasts! how they recur again and again, and point

Section XV.] Rajasthdn. 4®1
the Eastern traveller's itinerary. I generally rested till
about three o'clock, when the remainder of the day's
march — say twenty miles — could be accomplished before
nightfall. On the right the Aravellis looming close at hand all
the way along the route, with many a stony spur and
rugged glen impinging on the track, invited exploration
had time allowed. Occasionally I did ride off the road a
few miles. On the left the bare sandy marches of Jodh-
poor and the desert of "Marost-hali" (the plains of death),
varied, however, by an occasional village, with its tank
and temple — an oasis of surrounding fertility in which
peacocks roam; but occasionally such scenes were at
tributable to "mirage," which in these regions at times
misleads the traveller.
In this way I found I could easily cover my fifty miles
a day, even riding off the road as any object of interest
attracted notice, my servants on the sowari camels com
ing along close behind at a good round swinging trot of
nearly seven miles an hour, so that the baggage was
always well up, and, in fact, generally arrived at our
ground as soon as I did myself.
I mention all this in detail because this journey then
(and since) appeared to me the "eureka" method of
travelling in India; and I must say I never travelled so
comfortably in any other way. I was enabled thus to
view the northern face of the Aravellis, as my route lay
all along their base, and on several occasions — both going
and coming — I diverged from the track to view points of
interest on the march. I will recount one such deviation.
As I approached the pass of Barr, near Beaur, I lost
the road. I had remarked a fort or stronghold nestled
under the hills to my right, and as it was not too far from
the track I rode off towards it. The closer I approached

422 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
it the stranger did I find the surroundings, which con
sisted of a lonely castle enclosed by high trees and khets
(fields); in fact, a considerable clearing in this arid waste,
but not a soul to be seen! I rode up to the gate; still not
a soul ! I found my horse — the country-bred — somewhat
distressed, and determined to see if I could not obtain
water and fodder for him and an hour's rest. After the
lapse of some time, and repeated knockings at the gate,
it was at length opened by a gigantic Rajpoot, who — with
a second to match — confronted me. I tried to explain who
I was, why at his gate, and what I required, whereupon,
locking the gate, he retreated, apparently on his reserve,
within the fort, as I could both see and hear about ten
other warlike Rajpoots of similar pattern inside, where a
consultation was taking place. A sort of jemadar at last
came forward, and after a short parley, I was admitted
within the fort, and the gates closed behind me! I
thought this strange. I found myself in a courtyard
surrounded by buildings and lofty walls; on one side the
raja's palace, subtended on the other sides by smaller
buildings containing his followers, with sutler's shops and
husbandman's sheds, all within the enceinte. The whole
community seemed, as it were, under one roof, isolated in
an extraordinary degree, and, as it were, "on guard."
At first I did not at all like the look of things; these
fellows seemed to be giving themselves airs, and half in
clined I thought to be rude and inhospitable, but I put a
bold face on it, and demanded to see the raja. After
some delay, sure enough, a very sallow, seedy-looking in
dividual came forward, who announced himself as the
"Thakoor," or his brother, I forget which. He ultimately
became civil enough, furnishing my horse with a ration,
and offering me fruit and a guide. So I sat about an
hour, on a terrace overlooking the country, and conversed

Section XV.] Rajasthdn. 423
with him, during which period I became aware of certain
female twitterings from the palace behind us. I found
he was a Jaipore Thakoor (noble) who had very recently
been "yagi" (in rebellion) to his chief, hence my strange
reception. At last he became quite friendly, and offered
to take me hunting and hawking with him if I would
halt the next day at Barr, but as I found this impossible
I bade him farewell, and rode off with a guide till the
poor country nag came actually to a standstill, and it was
late at night before I found my camp at Barr.
These thakoors (nobles) are often very fine fellows, and
quite unspoilt by courts and toadyism to magnates; free
and open in their bearing; without the slightest approach
to subservience or cringing such as the town-bred native
of rank, by contact with Europeans, often acquires.
Jolly fellows these, who will meet you frankly and on an
equality, and ride and hunt with you like an English
comrade! The only complete drawback to social "rap
prochement" being that they won't eat with one! al
though I have seen even this overcome in the case of
Mahrattas, and have sat at the same table as the Guico-
war and his family (sons and daughter), on which occasion
fruit was served, and we all partook of it. These thakoors
are generally ruined financially, and in the hands of the
usurers — more's the pity — who keep them just going for
credit's sake.
Near Nusseerabad I met some excellent horse-artillery
friends, and we had a little antelope hunting together
before I was reluctantly compelled, by time, to leave
their hospitable mess, and push on my return journey,
which, again, was by the raj carriages via Bhurtpore to
Futtehpore-Sikri, Agra, and so on to Delhi, Lahore, and
the Punjaub.
I made several sketches during this ride — from horse-

42 4 The Highlands of India. [Section XV-
back if I am not mistaken — as explanatory of the sort of
country traversed; also of Taraghur, the fort overlooking
Ajmere, which crowns the bluff of the north-east axis of
the Aravellis, before it breaks into several offsets.*
One other incident of this journey may be introduced.
On our staging into Bhurtpore, the raja's horses being all
engaged elsewhere, my carriage was horsed-'m by camels.
Two were harnessed in, each being ridden by a sowar
(trooper) in boots and regimentals. These camels turned
out to be only half broken, and on the road ran away with
the carriage into the scrub, across which we bounded; we
jolted over mounds and bushes, and I expected an upset
every moment. The camels actually broke into a plun
ging gallop, when an exhibition of riding occurred by
these sowars by far the most remarkable I ever beheld.
They stuck to their camels — who were bounding along at
a gallop like ships in distress — most wonderfully. I was
so pleased with their pluck and riding on this occasion,
which, in fact, saved us all from coming to any amount
of grief, that I made them handsome presents on arriving
safe at Bhurtpore, where I rested in a small corner room
of the vast empty palace within the walls of that grand
historical native fortress. This has, however, led us be
yond the limits of the' highlands of Rajpootana into the
land of the Jats, and closely approaching the land of
"Krishna," and his friends the "Pandaus," touched on in
other sections of this little work.
* See page 206, Vol. I.

Section XV.] Appendix. 425
APPENDIX 1.
NOTE ON SPORT IN RAJPOOTANA.
That aggregation of Native States in the north-west of India
which passes under the general name of Rajpootana, comprises
within its area a topographical surface as varied as its soil, and
hence affords scenery and sport of an equally varied character.
Prom the desert wastes and howling wildernesses of Jeysul-
meer and Bikaneer to the rich opium and corn growing lands in
the neighbourhood of Neemuch; from the heights of the Aravelly
range of hills to the low-lying marshy lands of Bhurtpore, much
variety of landscape and most kinds of game are to be found in
one part or another.
It is many years since duty rather than pleasure led to
wanderings on my part, extending to some thousands of miles,
obliging me to traverse the country in various directions, and
reach some parts rarely visited.
Railways and roads now enable tourists and travellers to visit
the principal points of attraction ; but now, as formerly, there
exist numerous out of the way nooks and corners to which only
the wandering official or sportsman penetrates : indeed wild and
desolate tracts of country and extensive wastes of jungle exist
unnoticed by anyone.
My little camp reached Singrowlie one morning in the month
of April, when I was marching from Neemuch to Kotah by the
jungle route, and I at once instituted enquiries, and collected
some men to beat the most promising bits of jungle on spec ;
that is, without having any game marked down or a previous
bundobust (arrangement) made. The points selected to be
beaten were some deep bays or rocky glens which indented the
front of a low range of hills which rose somewhat abruptly from
the lower ground, and formed a table-land above covered with
grass and jungle. Fallen rocks and jungle within these bays
afforded excellent retreats for wild beasts. We actually turned
out two tigers and two bears. One of the former was shot dead
by a matchlock-man whom I had posted in a tree in a pass, with
orders to fire powder only and turn towards me any beast break-

426 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
ing that way. The other tiger, beaten out of another bay, went
away in the distance without being shot at. Of the bears, one
got away on the opposite side of the bay after he had, with his
companion, chased a party of the men, and smashed a tom-tom
thrown away in their flight. The other eventually came to my
side and I severely wounded him, but he escaped, as night was
drawing on and we could not follow him. This was a pretty
good show of game for a beat on spec, and illustrates its abund
ance in some of the remotest parts of the country.
Mount Aboo, which, in its highest point — the peak of Gooroo-
Sikur — rising to above 5000 feet, is a sanitarium and pleasant
summer residence, and amidst its rocks, and on its jungle-covered
sides, game of various descriptions is to be found. Bears are
there, but seldom seen. Sambur are frequently shot. Tigers
roam about, but having no fixed residences, are very difficult to
mark down on those wild and wide hillsides. But the hill domi
nates a rugged and broken country below, where the sportsman
has a better chance of being brought face to face with his game,
especially at a few miles distance to the southward.
My shikari had brought me word one day of a family of tigers
which made some caves in a rugged hill their abiding place dur
ing the day, so I sent on a tent and rode down the hill to a village
in the vicinity of their whereabouts. I had been lucky enough to
get hold of an elephant for the occasion, which was the only one
on which I have ever had the opportunity of shooting tigers from,
my other experiences being on foot, trees, rocks, etc. It belonged
to the Guicowar of Baroda, and was a fine shikar tusker. I took
measures by sending bodies of men out very early, and tying
strips of cloth in the frequented paths of the tigers, to keep them
from their fastness in the hill after their nightly prowlings, and
out in the open jungle. These measures were successful, and I
had the satisfaction of learning one morning that at least three
tigers were lying in the jow (bastard Cyprus) jungle in the dried-
up bed of a river near their haunt. The elephant was rather in
subordinate, approaching, indeed, that state called must, which a
day or two afterwards necessitated his being chained on the spot.
He condescended, however, to let me mount, and I was soon on
the spot where a number of men were assembled on a high bank,
keeping watch and ward between the caves and the river bed,

Section XV] Appendix. 4®?
having harboured the tigers in a large patch of jow. I was de
scending the bank into this when I detected a tiger apparently
lying down, with its head raised looking straight at me, within
twenty yards. I called to the mahout to stop, and aimed straight
at the head, which, indeed, was the only portion of the animal I
saw. Not a sound or a movement responded to my shot : the
head disappeared, that was all. We circled round, a little cau
tiously, and found the tiger quite dead, shot through the brain.
It was a young and lanky animal, but full grown in height.
I continued on, and within a few minutes another and smaller
tiger broke from the patch and gave me a smart shot as it crossed
a bit of open. Some said it was hit, but whether that was so or
not, I never saw it again. We still advanced, and shortly came
upon the third and largest tiger, who was on the move. I saw
him sitting on his haunches, listening in the jungle with his back
towards us. I think the beasts were "gobra" — puzzled and be
wildered at the row, and by being kept from their usual resting-
place. At any rate, before he seemed to realise his position or
our vicinity, I put in a sharp right and left ere he bolted. We
knew he was badly wounded and lame : indeed I sighted him
several times without being able to get a shot, but he led us a
pretty dance for hours, in and about the river and on its jungle-
covered banks. At last, towards evening, he was seen by some
lookouts to steal into a wide patch of jow, into which 1 followed
him. We must have passed close to him without seeing him,
for he broke from behind us after we had passed, and dashed
away to our rear. I was soon round on his tracks, and again he
went off, this time across my front, at full roar and gallop, and I
rolled him over like a hare. Up again in a moment ; he at last
summoned courage to charge. This he now did with dash and
vigour, and I doubled him up at the foot of the elephant as the
latter screamed and swerved. The game was now pretty well
over, but it took another shot to put the finishing stroke, and
admit of our handling a large and very heavy male tiger. My
first shot had gone through the loins, and, penetrating the body,
was lying in the loose skin in the centre of the belly. It was
wonderful how much he had done after such a wound. My
second shot had gone through one of the hind feet, which
accounted for his lameness.

428 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
I had several other little affairs with tigers and bears during
my residence in Rajpootana, but I never had time to form or join
any actual hunting expedition for a lengthened period. Mine
were mere casual encounters, when marching on expeditions of a
few days only in that country.
But not alone for big game is Rajpootana a happy hunting
ground. Sambur and cheetul are numerous in some parts, and
pigs abound, and in some places — where there is fair riding
ground — afford fine sport to the pig-sticker. The neighbourhood
of Oodipore, Jodhpore, Jeypore, Kotah, Nusseerabad, and Nee
much present such, and I have taken, and seen taken by others,
several "first-spears" in some of those districts. The last boar
whose trophies I ever gained was hunted in the scrubby jungle
and among the high prickly pear hedges, a few miles from Oodi
pore, and a fine pair of tusks he had.
Antelope in great numbers are to be found in the plains, and
most descriptions of small game, in their season, in the cultivated
country. In these plains a great feature — and a striking and
picturesque object — is often afforded by the stronghold of some
petty chief perched on a mass of rock or rugged hill rising from
the plains. The large forts of the more important chieftains are
also of interest, and these are numerous, both in the hills and
plains. Another remarkable feature of the country — especially in Mey-
war or Oodipore — is the size and beauty of the tanks, or more
properly speaking lakes, for though for the most part the result of
artificial draining, many of them are large sheets of water several
miles round. When travelling with the camp of the Governor-
General's agent for Rajpootana after the great Agra Durbar held
by Lord Canning after the mutiny, we camped for some time on
the bend of one of these rivers at Kunkrowlie, and enjoyed ex
cellent sport there. Wild geese, ducks, and waterfowl of many
kinds, and snipe were abundant.
The country is varied and pretty where the hills impinge on
the plain, and the bund on which we were camped was a struc
ture which might be considered a work of art as well as a massive
specimen of utility. It is built, or rather faced, with white marble.
Noble flights of steps lead from the water to the raised terrace
which forms the bund. This stretches from hill to hill, a distance

Section XV.] Appendix. 429
of some hundreds of yards, and intercepts the flow of the water.
Between these flights of steps are abutments, each surmounted
by a little marble pleasure or summer house. Temples, too, and
priestly edifices, extend along the shore a little further on.
Sport was our relaxation, and generally obtained only after
office work was over, or on the morning march ; but I see from
my notes that in the course of forty-seven days — on which one
or more of our party, up to eight, shot — we killed seventeen brace
of wild geese, two hundred and seventy-eight brace of ducks of
various kinds, three hundred and forty-four couple of snipe, and
a number of quail, partridge, and hares, together with a few ex
tras such as the large sand grouse, bitterns, curlews, a few jungle
and water fowl, one bustard, eleven antelopes, and two chikore.
Mahaseer abounded in this lake, but were tabooed to the En
glish sportsman in the neighbourhood of the temples, being pro
tected and fed by the Brahmins there. Great fat fellows up to
thirty and forty pounds weight were to be seen crowding and
hustling one another as they came to be fed. It was only in the
remotest parts that our rods could be used, and then we killed
many mahaseer ot smaller size, and murrel, both excellent eating.
Rajpootana, in fine — though in so many parts desolate and
sparsely inhabited — is a country which, to the lover of sport and
scenery, is replete with interest. I speak not here of our relation
to it historically, politically, or socially.

No. 174— LAKE OF OODIPORE.

430 The Highlands of India. [Section XV.
APPENDIX 2.
NOTES ON RAJPOOTANA.
A few points of interest chiefly noted by "Tod" in his "Rajas-
than," are here introduced as follows : —
Kangra is equivalent to "battlements," and is a generic word
for any stronghold.
rA«Z=arid or sterile land.
Viraj-'hamp, or the " Warrior's Leap," is on the pass to the
Uper-mal, near Chitore.
Bhima's temple in the Mokundra pass.
The Oodisagur, or lake at the head of the river Bunass ; Per
hola being the parent lake. Tod notes measurement of a trout
caught in the river Bunass — weight seventy-three rupees (about
two pounds), seventeen inches long, nine inches in girth. This
may interest piscatorial readers. I myself have caught mahaseer
and dace near Gwalior in Rajpootana.
The Pathar=the tableland of the Uper-mal. The Nasairah
pass leads on to it.
The Palace and hanging gardens of Boondi have been men
tioned in a foot note (page 411).
Falls of the Chumbul in the forest of Puchail.
Mokundra (Krishna) an equivalent of Dwar-ka-nauth=the
pass or portal of Deity.
The temple of BarolU, near Mokundra, and of Mymdl.
The above amongst other points of interest are noted by Tod.
The temples on Aboo have been alluded to in the text, and an
illustration of a fragment of one given (No. 167). The original
work must, however, be consulted for anything like an account
of the numerous objects of interest to be viewed throughout
Rajpootana, the very nidus of the ancient Takshak or Ophite
race, which preceded Rajpoots as dominant.
"Tod" notes the practice of the Scapegoat (black oxen) as the
Raj remedy for cholera.
The Raja of the Hoons (Huns) is fabled as the builder of the
Kumalmair temple. His servant Augusti (Ungutsi) was a
Tatar.

Section XV.] Appendix. 431

APPENDIX 3.
An epitome of the History of Gwalior, compiled by the author,
is given below. It has appeared in the proceedings of the
Archteological Society of Agra, and is here given in a very ab
breviated form.
The author got quite fascinated with the old place, and used to
climb — often with a ladder — into every nook and corner, both in
side and outside the walls. A wonderful agglomeration of the
work of successive centuries is here presented. Not to mention
the grand old crenalated enceinte with its machiacouli towers and
"points of vantage," whilst the many palaces, temples, caverns
— some spiral and winding into the rock, often containing idols
or sculptures — rock images, tanks, etc., are astonishing.
Extending the circle of research by riding out into the country
to the circumjacent hills,' highly interesting views are to be ob
tained. The old rock bathed in the golden haze of mid-day, or
in the crimson glare of sunset ; or, maybe, in the " pale moon
light," is indeed a " thing of beauty," and worthy the admiration
of the artistic mind or of the study of the poet or historian.
I now address myself to the actual annals of the fortress, as
derived from the Gwalior-Nameh." —
NOTE ON ANCIENT GWALIOR.
The rock or mountain on which the fortress is built was origin
ally called "Koomunt," and is stated in the Gwalior-nameh to
have been the abode of " lions, tigers, and serpents."
About three hundred and thirty-two years after Bikramajeet
(Samvat), or three hundred and fifteen years before Hijra (a.t>.
307), a hermit named Gwalior — or Seddi Jogi — had thither
retired, and lived secluded from mankind for purposes of medi
tation and prayer.
A Rajpoot named Sooruj Sen Kuchwasa, whose home was at
Loosinan, in the province of Chenarie, being on a hunting ex
cursion, accidentally strayed across the rock or mountain of
Koomunt, and there encountered the recluse Gwalior; some

432

The Highlands of India. [Section XV.

offices of hospitality having passed between them, the hermit
appears to have "taken a fancy" to the Rajpoot chief, on whom
he bestowed a sort of Fortunatus purse, and whom he encouraged
to build a castle on the spot, and blessed him in the name of
" Sooruj Pal," prophesying that so long as his posterity should
retain the name of Pal so long would the country and kingdom
remain to them.
Such is the legend of the original settlement of Koomunt, and
the origin of the Pal dynasty, which actually reigned eighty
generations, till about the year a.d. 1150, when the reigning
"Pal" chief of Gwalior — Punjkeren Pal, the eightieth or eighty-
first representative — married a princess of Amber (Jaipore),
daughter of Rajah Runmal (of Johdpore") and changed his name,
adopting instead his father-in-law's name and clan, and ulti
mately succeeding to his kingdom, having previously made over
his ancestral Gwalior to his minister "Ramdeen," of the Purhor
tribe of Rajpoots.
The list of Rajahs of Gwalior given in the Gwalior-nameh is
very meagre as to their history, though exact as to their names
and length of reign ; though, as derived through a Mahomedan
source, the Hindoo names are somewhat disfigured by trans
literation. After the above events, the fortress was conquered by Shums-
ud-din Altumsh, a.d. 1222, and so passed under Mahomedan
rule. It became a sort of state prison and a sanitarium for the
Mogul court, till the rise, of the Mahrattas in the eighteenth
century, who possessed themselves of this ancient stronghold till
its conquest by the British.

No. 175— THE THAL PASS.

1

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 433

ANNEXE TO SECTION XV.

THE MAROST-HALI, OR
GREAT NORTHERN DESERT OF INDIA.
Anecdotes of Warfare and Sport — Down the Sutlej to the Siege
of Mooltan — Hog Hunting along the rivers of the Southern
Punjaub — Antelope Hunting — Wild Asses — Dhera-Ghazi-
Khan in the Derajhat (Trans-Indus) — Note on the Indian
Lion and Cheetah (hunting-leopard), etc.
Omitting all reference to the highland
temples of Kathiawar — for a description
of which see Vol. I., page 208 — and, IPr- j ^[^ffiS|
before passing on to Section XVI. — R^ ji^to."
India- Alba — we must assume the wings ; r- '. ' [ '
of an eagle, and make a flight across H#" ' - <€ ' ' ''
ing from the states of Jeysulmeer and
Bikaneer to the Mahomedan principality |
of Bahawulpore on the south, and on the
r ' . No. 176— Highland Temples.
north from Ajmere to Khytal and Fe-
rozepore on the Sutlej, a channel of which river — now lost —
formerly intersected this desert region, and lost itself in the
Runn of Katch.*
It has been the author's lot to pass along the edges of this
desert on three sides, whilst the fourth side — the Runn of Katch
— forms the chief arena of " Hog Hunting in the East," the
work of a brother, who has favoured me also with several contri
butions to the present volume. The author has, however, himself
hunted hog, antelope, wolves, hyasnas, and other game on its
* See foot note, page 57, Vol. 'I., " Highlands of India."
Dd

the great Indian desert called MarSst- W& "' ' '
Hdli (the plains of death), which inter- H
venes between the northern frontiers of &&• / { • ' • .
Rajpootana, and the river Indus, extend-

H

m

434

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.

borders, and has shot sand-grouse, hare, quail, floriken, and grey
and black (francolin) partridge along its edges !
I would add lynx to the catalogue of game hunted in this
district ; but only once did I chance on one in India, and that
was in the vicinity of Mundote near Ferozepore. I had fired at
a supposed hare and missed, but something in the attitude of the
quarry as he jumped off led me to follow him into the bush ; I
there again put up what I distinctly saw was a lynx, about half
as big again as a hare. I mounted, and pursued him into a
ravine filled with long grass in which I lost him, but immediately
came instead upon a huge wolf, whom I pursued for several miles,
often seeming as though I should close on him. The gaunt
beast, however, was loping away at a long amble, evidently
keeping me at the same safe distance at his ease, long after my
own Arab was nearly clone, and I had to give him up. I forget
whether it was on this occasion — one Christmas eve — that my
horse, falling into one of those pits dug by the natives for the
purpose of extracting the roots of the peeloo for firewood, threw
me and escaped into the jungle, in which he wandered ten days —
namely, till new year's day. He was then brought back from
Furreedkote — distant thirty-five miles — by some followers of the
rajah. He had apparently been in the jungle in the vicinity of ,
the desert all the time, with his saddle on, which was badly torn.
I was glad to recover the little horse, which I had given up for lost.
._..—..__...._...  _.. Often has the author, riding out
for the day or longer, from the
Ferozepore of old times — both be
fore and after the Punjaub War of
1848-9 — hunted that wild scrub
round Mundote and Furreedkote to
near the edge of the desert, meeting
specimens of the above game amidst
the patches of jow and mimosa?
which alternate with the "bheer"
or reaches of grass towards the
river.
Along the northern reaches of this wild tract the great siege
train of the Army of the Sutlej rumbled through that wild jungle
of mimosas, salsiferous shrubs, and acacia, interposed between

No. m—SHORKOTE.
Siege train on the march.

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 435
Kurnaul and Wudnee, leading to Moodkhee and Ferozeshahur,
over which stricken fields we passed to Sobraon, the site of the
great battle of the tenth of February, 1846, on the Sutlej, all in
the close vicinity of Ferozepore. On this route the skeletons of
slain Sikhs — our gallant foes — glistened in the pale light of morn
ing as we passed over the field. From Ferozepore, also, the siege
train proceeded down the Sutlej to the siege of Mooltan in 1848.
As illustrative of sport I may mention that at Sobraon — dur
ing the battle — a tiger was seen to steal away in the long grass
before the hcstile armies engaged in fight ; and the author has
often seen and hunted many hogs amongst the long grass which
there clothes the reaches of the Sutlej, and shot many a hare
and partridge, not to mention wild fowl, along its banks.
Strictly speaking, these regions can scarcely be termed
"Highlands;" nevertheless, as they lead up to the tracts called
India Alba, briefly to be alluded to in the next section, and, in
the south, are within sight of the great Sulieman range across
the Indus, and as they form an arena in which the author had
opportunities of viewing much sport in early manhood, some
account may not be uninteresting to the reader who has followed
this little chronicle of field sports in India; I am therefore here
tempted to give an abreviated extract from my journal of the
First Siege of Mooltan, a period which comprised some interest
ing adventures of war and field sport.
I pass on to the summer of 1848, when the rebellion of Moolraj, at
Mooltan broke out. It was determined, after much hesitation, to de
spatch a force to co-operate with that of the gallant Edwardes. I will
not trouble the reader with the political aspect of this case, which, how
ever, will be incidentally mentioned further on; suffice to say that
Edwardes had defeated Moolraj in the field, and even driven him within
the walls of Mooltan, but had not the means to reduce him with his
extemporised army consisting chiefly of rough frontier levies, and the
troops of our ally, the Khan of Bahawulpore, He had asked for
"Napier and a few heavy guns." Accordingly early in July, 1848, a
British force of 4000 or 5000 men, with a siege train, commenced its
march towards the scene of war, in two columns. It was to be rein
forced en route by about 12,000 Sikh troops, whilst the siege train of
thirty-two pieces was to be conveyed from Ferozepore, down the Sutlej,
to Bahawulpore, there to disembark and march across to Mooltan.
" We experienced a terrible march from Lahore, during which
we lost several men from sunstroke, but on the second of
Dd2

k36

The Highlands of India. Sect. XV. to XVI.

No. 178— RUINS NEAR LAHORE.

"August, having packed the train in the boats on the Sutlej, we
weighed anchor, and commenced our river journey of nineteen
days, to Buddrie-Ghat, opposite Bahawulpore. I kept a journal
(now before me) of this expedition, from which I may, perhaps,
borrow.* It is illustrated by sketches, which I found time to
make occasionally during this expedition, in which I was field
adjutant of the artillery of the siege train. An engineer park,
under Major Robert Napier, accompanied the battering train.
From the day we embarked on the river all sickness vanished ;

No. 179— ON THE SUTLEJ.— Native funeral party on "mussocks."

* The fleet consisted of fifty-seven Bombay harbour boats and thirty
native boats for the train, with nearly one hundred thatched boats for
the artillery detachment, The transport train cattle proceeding by
land, consisted of four thousand camels for shot and shell, five hundred
and fifty hackeries (carts) for powder and train stores, eight hundred
and fifty T.T. bullocks, and thirty-eight elephants.

Sect. XV. to XVI. ]

Annexe.

437

" every one was revived by the cool river air, and good health pre
vailed to the end of the campaign, nine months after. The Sutlej
was then in full flood — like a sea in some places — and you could
scarcely see across it. We had two steamers to help us along,
but they were not made fully available to assist us. Many in
cidents of that river journey occur to me, but I find it difficult
to fix on any single one that would interest without extracting
from the pages of my journal. The wild, dreary flats of mud
bank, over which the tawny flood of the river was lapping its
turbulent waves ; jagged alligators lying on the sand beneath
the bluffs of the banks impending on the channel; the dense
grassy reaches down which a wandering tiger often strolls ; the
occasional grounding of a train boat, the excitement of coming
to anchor for the night ; all these things pass through my me
mory like the pageant of a diorama, but to detail them would
perhaps weary the reader. All were now in high spirits and
eager for the fray. Many of the men had hoisted flags over their
boats, such as the "Red Rover," " Waterwitch," etc., and we all
began to believe that there was really something before us, as
occasional despatches reached us, exhibiting Moolraj as showing
no signs of yielding, which we had feared his doing.
"At length — on the nineteenth of August — we arrived at
Buddrie-Ghat, and commenced landing the guns and stores of
the train ; and here a curious incident occurred, and one that
might have led to serious results. All the guns, and half the

No. 180-/1 FRESHET ON THE SUTLEJ,— BUDDRIE-GHAT.

438

The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.

"train stores, had been landed, and the former had most fortu
nately been parked well inland, when a sudden shifting of the
current of the river set in towards the bank on which was pitched
our camp and park : within the space of half-an-hour an area of
several acres of ground was swept away, the undermining current
washing away the loose soil by roods at a time. The "alarm"
was sounded, and the men turned out just in time to save the
stores. Shot, shell, and miscellaneous park stores were seized
on and carried inland, where they were promiscuously thrown
down without any regard to plan, so that, perhaps, an acre
thickly strewn with shot and shell — like the valley of the shadow
of death in more recent times in the Crimea — was thickly sown
with the iron harvest. However, by these means the train was
saved. " On the twenty-ninth of August we commenced our march
across to Mooltan, and a somewhat severe thing this-was. The
heat was fearful, the thermometer rising sometimes to as much
as one hundred and ten or even one hundred and fifteen degrees
in tents. The only remedy was to march at nights ; which, how
ever, were pitch dark, this being the dark quarter of the moon.
Serious danger was incurred in crossing some of the steep and
- abrupt irrigation canals, which had been only imperfectly bridged

No. 181— CROSSING THE RAVI RAJGHAUT.

Sect. XV. to XVI. ]

Annexe.

439

"for the occasion by an officer in the service of our ally, the Khan
of Bahawulpore ; in fact, one twenty-four-pounder gun did actu
ally fall over the edge of one bridge, and the driver of the leading
pair of bullocks was swept away by the swift current under the
bridge, where, however, I remember he was caught by the piles ;
he remained in the water suspended by his long hair all night,
and, being found in the morning, was taken out alive. At
length, after a somewhat trying march of a week, we joined in
with the rest of the force in camp at Seetul-ke-mdree before
Mooltan. Next day the general in command fired a royal salute,
and summoned the fortress to surrender. A shotted gun, fired
from the great cavalier of Mooltan in derision, was Moolraj's
answer, and next day began the first Siege of Mooltan.
"Mooltan, the ancient city of the "Malli" — where the great
Macedonian leading the assault in person so nearly came to grief
— lay before us amidst dense foliage and gardens — " plaisaunces"
of successive Mahomedan governors. These enclosures, with
mosques and their precincts, together with other strong ground
outside the walls — such as natural mounds and canal banks —
presented a formidable defensive position if, as turned out, ably
defended. At the time I write of, Mooltan was almost unknown
to Europeans ; scarcely any Englishman had ever visited it; but
enough of its precincts had been reconnoitred to enable us to
commence operations by an attempt to drive the enemy within
his walls, preparatory to "breaking ground;" an attempt only
however, partly successful." * * * The siege went on, till
raised by the defection of our Sikh allies : — in this place the sub-
ject need not be further pursued.

No. 182— SHEIKH EMAM-00-DEEN'S CAMP, CHUNIOTE.

440 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
My experience of hog hunting has not been great, but several
years after the period embraced in the above, I was again
quartered at Mooltan, and recall several glorious outings after
pig, both at Dhera-Ghazi-Khan and on the islands of the Ravi
above Mooltan. We did not kill many hogs, but a choice party
— the members of the Mooltan Tent Club — with an occasional
visitor, often met and enjoyed pleasant rides after them in those
districts. I recall one day's meet : — In the early morning of a
h'ot April day, behold our party of eight, all good men and true,
mounted, in progress to beat the low jow and khets (fields) along
the reaches of the Ravi above Mooltan, under guidance of our
Deputy-Commissioner, a sporting man in authority, who had
means to procure for us a line of elephants to beat the high
grass and sugar cane which at intervals occur along the river
reaches ; but few hogs, however, had offered runs, until — as the
sun got high — the whole party had forded a branch of the river
on to an island of the Ravi, but, except two, found themselves on
the wrong bank, as it proved, for the chance of a run. They en
deavoured to swim their horses across a deep creek or channel ;
then occurred the fiasco alluded to at page 5 of these reminis
cences ! All were good, several of the party famous, riders ;
but I am under the truthful necessity ot recording that scarcely
one of the party could fairly swim his horse across, and several
got tremendous duckings ! The sun was, however, so hot
that a bath in the cool stream was quite a luxury. It so hap
pened that C. and I alone of the party were on the right bank,
and as we had both made a point of teaching our men — he
his irregulars and I my native horse artillerymen — to swim our
horses across canals, etc., we had some thoughts, as the weather
was so hot, of plunging in and trying our luck with the rest.
The prospect of a bath was tempting, but on the whole the idea
seemed a shade too melodramatic, so as we were warned that
pigs were afoot, we resisted the impulse, and looked on only,
and, whilst the rest were floundering in the creek — as it turned
out — were the only two of the party who got a run on that
occasion after the hog ; but I do not recollect that we killed. I
may as well here confess that I never had the least eye for the
use of the spear, and would far rather tackle a boar with a sword
any day ! I have ridden past and even over hogs in my horse's

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 441
stride in the long grass more than once, and missed my thrust
with the long Bombay spear I generally used, though slightly
more successful with the short Bengal spear; but on the other
hand, with my trusty (Paget) blade — manufactured for the direct
blow as well as the drawing cut — would have engaged almost to
decapitate a hog if once fairly alongside.

^^^^M^M&^^m^^^^^

"w-aRsHS»'

*§fe

No. 183— AN AFFAIR AT THE OUTPOSTS.
I am here reminded that on one occasion I was out hog hunt
ing in the bheer or stretch of long grass which clothes the banks
of the Sutlej, when five of us were galloping at top speed through
the long sirkhee grass that bent before our horses Hke silken
waves; I had actually ridden over a hog in the dense grass,
when — being third of the party — 1 saw the two men ahead of
me, who were mounted on strong English horses, suddenly dis
appear. I surmised that something must be wrong. Luckily
my horse was well in hand, and, like myself, just fresh trained,
from the cavalry riding school. I shouted "Halt!" throwing
myself well back in the saddle. The well-trained little Arab re
sponded, and, with a jump or two, halted dead on his haunches,
at the very brink of a blind nullah, ten or twelve feet deep, down
which the two leading horsemen had been precipitated. Happily
the bottom was of loose drop sand, and they picked themselves
up from their tremendous cropper without broken bones, but one
of the horses had to be destroyed on the spot, if I mistake not.
I must not, however, claim great experience in hog hunting,
not having been at the death of, I suppose, more than half-a-
dozen boars ; nor — though I have ridden past and even over
more than one in my horse's stride — have I killed boars to
my own spear, which I could never use with effect, though at
times rather expert with the sword ; whereas my brother — alluded

442 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
to as the author of "Hog Hunting in the East," must have
speared hundreds and killed sixty or more to his own spear, and
may be regarded as an authority in the noble sport of hog hunting.*
Whilst quartered at Mooltan, I have on several occasions,
hunted antelope at various points along the old Lahore road
such as Tolumba and Harruppa. Having sent my horses ahead
some twenty or thirty miles along the road, I have at the dawn
of day taken my seat on an express mail-cart, arriving at my
hunting ground by seven or eight o'clock. After a hasty break
fast, mounting one of my horses, I would ride into the tharr or
desert ridge of the Bari Doab, always finding antelope to run.
Clothed in drab (khakee), and mounted on my little bay Arab,
"Zenophon," and keeping my rifle out of sight — leaning well
over to the off side — I would approach them diagonally. The
antelope, though restless, would often allow me to get within a
hundred yards or so ; gently following as they moved off, I
would manage to get some of the clumps of dense bush between
us, then putting my horse to speed would often come out at full
gallop within fifty or sixty yards of the herd. Then, if " Zeno
phon" — who would halt dead, as trained — would only have kept
quite quiet, I could frequently have shot a deer, but I do not
recall obtaining more than one or two by these tactics, though
I have cut off fawns from the herd frequently.
Camels are bred in that jungle, which, though a wild reach of
barren scrub, contains camel-thorn, and young camels could fre
quently be seen all about the plain.
After a frugal tiffin, eaten under some shady bush, and with
another horse to ride back to the road, I have often shot a brace
or two of partridges before mounting the mail-cart in the late
afternoon, and have reached Mooltan in time for mess-dinner,

* Cantain J. T. Newall, late Asst. G.G.'s Agent, Rajpootana States.
This gallant soldier and sportsman of the truest type, met with a
dreadful accident, which compelled him, in the flower of life and man
hood to leave the active duties of his profession ; but who, nevertheless,
I rejoice to say still follows sport and kills grouse and salmon — nay, even
the lordly stag — in the highlands of Scotland to the present day; and is
the chiefest living example I know of the triumph of mind and pluck
over an adverse fortune. His work, "Hog Hunting in the East" (Tin-
sley Brothers, 1867), is quite a text book on the subject.

Sect. XV. to XVI. Annexe. 443
after a very pleasant cold weather day's outing. As I write, I
can hardly believe that the time was when such an outing was a
mere bagatelle; but we were young and wild riders in those days !
and thought nothing of fifty, eighty, or even a hundred' miles in
a day! I once went down the Indus in boat as far as Mithunkote;
near "Asnee" certain small specks in the desert were pointed
out to me as a herd of dzaggatai — onagers or wild asses ! It
was, however, a hopeless idea to ride them! I believe every
other description of game or wild animal has at times been
ridden down by man, but the onager never!* He laughs Haw!
haw ! and has the pace even over the fastest Arab; he is, in fact,
the swiftest beast that runs. These animals haunt the long
valleys which run up into the sham, the great plateau valley of
the south-east Suliemans towards the country of the Murrees,
and which is probably identical with the Phylaunsham plain
alluded to in page 223 of Vol. I. of the "Highlands of India."
The young are sometimes caught, and I have seen several brought
up as pets in the frontier regiments and batteries, but they are
generally vicious and often treacherous in temper.
In this district of Mooltan koolen (the edible crane) abound,
in the cold season the fields are sometimes white with them and
wild geese, and I have been out with a party which got as many
as six or eight in a morning. In the dry season alligators may
be viewed lying on every sandbank along these rivers, which join
the Indus below Mooltan in the lower reaches of the Punjaub.
The picturesque is represented by walled gardens of mango
and other trees, with large groves of date palm,f whilst the range
of the hazy Sulieman mountains bounds the horizon all along the
western bank of the Indus, rising like a wall above the lower
spurs. It contains ibex, ooryal, and markhore, with mahaseer in
the hill streams. I may here, perhaps, just quote one paragraph
from Vol. I., "Highlands of India," descriptive of the aspect

* Since writing the above, however, I have been informed that under
exceptional circumstances this has occasionally been done in Katch,
where a few are found in the skirts of the Runn.
t It is a curious fact that Punjaub tradition narrates that these groves
owe their origin to the stones of the dates which formed the ration of
Alexander's army as it marched down the Indus in 325 B.C.

444 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
of the country as one approaches Dhera-Ghazi-Khan and the
marches of India Alba, the district treated of in the next section :
speaking of the Passes —
"Viewed from the Indus — which the author once descended as
far as Asnee from Dhera-Ghazi-Khan — they appear like nicks
in the wall of the Suliemans, which are visible from the plains as
far as Mooltan. Well does the author remember his first view
of them afforded by the setting in of the cold season, which dis
pelled the lurid veil of dust and heat which enshrouded our camp
before Mooltan at the close of the year 1848, after an unsuccess
ful siege, and whilst wearily waiting for reinforcements from
Bombay to recommence the attack of that fortress, which, in
fact, surrendered to our arms on the twenty-first January, 1849.
"All the minor passes need not be even named : the Cachar,
however, is of slightly more importance in the southern Derajhat.
Till rendered dangerous by the depredations of the lawless Beloo-
chis, it was a frequent thoroughfare for caravans coming from
the Zhob (Zawa) and Sanghar routes. To the south of this,
however, we come to a remarkable plateau, called the " Phylaun-
sham Plain," 1,500 feet above the sea, amidst the sham or
watershed of the Cachar and Kaha rivers. Several passes —
such as the Baghari, Jahagzi, Thok, Chuk, Muyhal, and Tahani
lead on to it. It is about thirty by twenty-five miles, with area
basin of nine hundred square miles. Could a colonizing native
population maintain themselves against the lawless Mari and
Bughti tribes adjacent, this plain might form a favourable site
for settlement; it is well watered, and has good soil. At present
wild asses, hog, deer, and horses roam it in freedom."
Mooltan is celebrated for flies, beggars, and dust, and is cred
ited with so close a proximity to Hades — the infernal regions —
that only a sheet of paper is said to intervene between them.

No. 184— MAHOMEDAN BEGGARS.

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 445

NOTE ON THE INDIAN LION AND CHEETAH.
In the preceding section the Lion has been mentioned as oc
casionally seen in parts of Rajpootana and Guzerat — along the
edges of the Marost-Hali — but his only real remaining habitat in
India is Kathiawdr, chiefly in the Gir forest ; and even there his
number has been greatly reduced in recent days. I have before
me as I write, several letters from old sportsmen who have
hunted in the districts named, whose notes may be given in ex-
tenso should space permit. The Indian lion is of the (so-called)
Babylonian or maneless species, and has by some been called a
Puma; nevertheless, one of my correspondents — a great authority*
— states that he once shot a lion near Rajkote in Kathiawar
which "had an eigh teen-inch mane, and was ten feet six inches
long unskinned." The same sportsman adds that "with another
gun he once got fourteen full grown lions in ten days in the gheer
forest." They are occasionally heard of in Katch, where they are
called the Oontia bhdg — camel-coloured tiger — and they have been
known to kill wild asses, which are also occasionally seen there.
I have heard of an officer of the Bombay cavalry (Colonel D.) who
whilst stationed in Kathiawar is said to have killed eighty lions.
I am privileged to reproduce an extract from a little work by
an old friend and Rugby schoolfellow — Colonel Edmund A. Hardy,
late 21st Hussars, formerly 1st Bombay Lancers — on the sub
ject of lions and cheetahs in Kathiawar, where he has him
self shot both and speared the latter. He states that " William
"Loch, formerly of the 1st Bombay Lancers — who commanded
"the Guicowar's contingent at Manikwara, about sixty miles from
"Rajkote — once speared six cheetahs off one horse;" and my
informant and friend, above named, further tells me he himself
once chanced on six cheetahs asleep under a large tree in the
same district, of which pack he killed four, three by spearing
them. I mention this because the fact of the felida having been
speared from horseback has been disputed. The cheetah or

* M. -General W. Rice, author of "Indian Game, from Quail to Tiger,"
Allen and Co.

446 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
hunting-leopard (felis jubata) is, however, not properly one of
the felidce, its claws not being retractile. Still, an angry cheetah,
as I have had occasion to observe whilst out hunting with them,
is a dangerous looking brute. My friend modestly writes, "Spear-
"ing the real leopard is a feat; I do not think spearing the
"cheetah or hunting-leopard, as Loch and I did, is anything of a
"feat at all, except as creditable to the pluck and endurance of-
"our respective nags."
" I only actually killed one lion myself during the time my old
"regiment, 1st Bombay Lancers, was quartered at Rajkote in
" Kathiawar, and except that it was a very large lioness, that she
"charged, and mauled a poor beater — not fatally, I am thankful
"to say — before I finished her off, there was nothing to note for
"others, though it was, of course, a very noteworthy event for
"myself. I forget the name of the village where I was pitched
"when I had my adventure with the six cheetahs, but it was
"somewhere between Rajkote and Porebunder. Lions are, I be-
"lieve, occasionally found in Katch, on the borders of, and in the
"island oases of the Runn of Katch, and I have heard of their
"killing a wild ass, whose habitat is that region; but Kathiawar,
"is, I believe, about the only province in India where the lion is,
" an indigenous inhabitant."
I will now reproduce the anecdote alluded to above from my
friend's little work, " Our Horses,"* which bears on the subject :
" I once speared three cheetahs (the hunting leopard) off his
"['Rugby's'] back, one after another. I was out on leave by
"myself, chiefly after lions. My native shikari (game. tracker)
"came into my tent with an "auspicious grin, just as I was finish-
" ing my breakfast, and said, — ' Sahib, I think I have got the big
"'lion for you at last to-day ; I have marked a big beast under
"'a tree about four miles off; what it is I do not know, as I
"'could not find his tracks on the rocky ground, and would not
"'go near for fear of disturbing him; but I have put men in
"'trees round to watch, and now the sun is hot he is not likely
"'to move.' Of course we were soon on our way. I rode an old
" shooting pony, but ' Rugby,' with a hog-spear, was led in close
"attendance following. The country was for the most part hilly,
* "Our Horses," by Colonel E. A. Hardy, retired list, 21st Hussars.
(W. Ridgway, 169 Piccadilly, W., 1878),

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 447
"with deep ravines, and between the little rocky hills or knolls
"were small patches of cultivation, with every here and there
"very fine trees. From one of these trees a white rag was waved
"as we came on, telling us all was right so far. The tree under
"which the lion was supposed to be lying was soon pointed out
"tome; it was the largest one near, and stood handsomely in
"the centre of the little plateau by itself, throwing a shade nearly
"all over the bit of land round it. Leaving the old shikari on
"the high ground with my spare guns, spear, and 'Rugby,' with
"my rifle cocked, I rode my pony quietly circling round the tree.
" I made all the use I could of my eyes, but could only make out
"that there was something very large of reddish-yellow colour
"under the tree, probably a lion, but I could make out nothing
" clear enough to justify my firing. At last I got within about
" thirty yards' distance, and looking intently, saw, as I thought,
" a large beast lying at full length fast asleep, offering apparently
"a most lucky shot, and taking deliberate aim at what I took to
"be behind his shoulder, I fired. To the shot up sprang six
"cheetahs, beautiful brutes, growling and rushing over each
" other, one evidently severely wounded. I was really so taken
" aback myself, I was stupid for a moment ; but before I could
"determine whether to fire my second barrel or to bolt, the old
"shikari yelled out, 'Come quickly for your horse, they are
"cheetahs, you can spear them; we'll kill them all!' In an-
" other minute I was mounted on ' Rugby,' spear in hand,
"charging after the biggest of the cheetahs, which were now
" bolting in different directions. I caught up the one I was after
" hand over hand, but suddenly the brute crouched, and faced me
" fiercely, exactly like a tiger waiting for his spring. I did not
" half like the look of him ; I thought the little horse would not
"either, and but for the old shikari's confident speech to me at
" starting, I think I should have sheered off and back for my rifle
"again. ' Rugby,' however, had no hesitation whatever : he car-
"ried me fast and fair straight at the dangerous looking brute,
"just as he would have done up to a hog, and I luckily sent my
"spear straight through behind his shoulder, turning him right
" over. ' Never mind him, leave him to me ; there's another to
"'the right,' again shouted the old shikari, who was scuttling
"after me as fast as he could on his pony; and almost without

4 1+8 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
" stopping I at once turned off ' Rugby' after another, which I
"also speared after a short run ; and then in like manner a third.
" The one I had wounded in the first instance by my shot under
" the tree had been finished off by the old shikari with my second
"gun, so four of the six were brought to bag. It was a capital
" morning's sport, but a very severe run for dear little ' Rugby,'
"who, however, was none the worse for it."
I have before me other anecdotes connected with this sport
which I may, perhaps, venture to reproduce, as I find them in
letters placed at the disposal of the friend to whom I am indebted
for the above extracts :
" Teeja, a fine-looking ' Seedee,' was waiting up a tree for deer
"when a pair of lions came by, evidently courting. Teeja shot
"the lioness, seemingly dead, just under the tree, when the lion,
"by awful roars and wild charges at nothing in all directions,
" nearly frightened him out of the tree. Each time the lion came
"back he fondled the lioness, and tried to lift her up again. At
" last he took her by the back of the neck and walked off with
"her flung over his back and shoulders. Teeja's friends, hearing
" the shot, and hoping a deer was killed, came up, and they all
" followed the lion's prints for a very long way, but saw neither
"again. A small matchlock ball and bad powder, perhaps, only
"stunned the lioness."
The writer adds — "Lord M., to whom I related the story,
"hit upon the only probable conclusion, viz., that the lioness was
"merely stunned for a time, and recovered after being carried out
"of danger by her lover."
Yet another anecdote about lions, in which extract I quote the
ipsissima verba of a distinguished hunter of big game* (which he
always shoots on foot) who kindly placed it at my friend's dis
posal : he says (apropos of the above anecdote) — " I have heard
"that story. The story was told by Jamal Khan, who was a great
" sportsman and a most truthful man, and certainly may be depend
ed on if it had not been subsequently embroidered. Poor Jamal
"is, alas! dead. But I can tell you nearly as good a story about
"the lioness whose skin I sent down to Arthur the other day.
" It was my last day but one in the Gir about three years ago. I
* Colonel J. W. Watson, Chief Political Agent in Kathiawar.

Sect. XV. to XVI.] Annexe. 449
"had been very unfortunate, and had not been able to get a shot
"during a stay of nearly a month. My camp was at Gidhria on
"the Hiran river. I had given up all hope, and had ordered my
" carts, when a puggy came in to say that a lion and lioness had
"been marked down under a tree about a mile and a half east
"from Sasan, about eight miles off plus the one and a half miles,
" so about nine and a half in all. It was, however, about twenty
" minutes to five p.m., but I thought it as well to try for them,
"though, no doubt, too late. So I mounted, and giving my
"gun and rifle to a couple of sowars, we galloped as hard as we
" could to Sasan, and then went through the forest for about half
"a mile, and then dismounted and walked to the place. Just as
"we reached the spot, to my intense disappointment, we met the
"puggies returning. They said we were just ten minutes too late;
" that a sambur had passed by, and that the lion had woke up
" the lioness, who was unwilling to move, and that both had gone
" after the sambur. It was very vexing, but I had never expected
"to get anything so late ; so took my gun and strolled back to-
" wards where we had left the horses, talking to Khuda Baksh,
"one of the puggies, who was telling me all that had happened.
" The other men loitered on the road and were about half a mile
"behind, as they were collecting their kit, talking, smoking, etc.,
"and amongst them was the man who carried my rifle. When
"we were a few hundred yards from the horses we were met by a
"lad who said, 'Please come on, Sahib, there is a lion stalking
" 'the horses.' As there was no time to wait for the rifle as it was
"getting dusk, I pushed on with Khuda Baksh, and about a
"hundred yards further on he pulled my sleeve and pointed in
" the jungle up a gentle slope to the left, and said, ' There, Sahib,
" 'is the lion.' On looking in the dusky light I could just dis
tinguish a large tawny animal seated on its rump like a dog,
"facing me about eighty yards off. I at once stopped and aimed
"as well as I could in the uncertain light, and fired. No sound
"followed and no charge, so we both thought that I must have
"missed, as all big felines usually roar when hit, even though
"they may not always charge. But this lioness never uttered a
" sound, but turned tail and cantered off. When the rest of the
"men came up they lamented my bad luck, and we just examined
"the spot where the animal had been sitting when I fired, but it
EE

450 The Highlands of India. [Sect. XV. to XVI.
"was now much darker, and we were all so certain that it had
"been a miss that we made a very perfunctory examination. Ac
cordingly I rode back to camp, leaving the puggies to try and
" track the lions. In the morning they examined the river bank,
" and found that neither lion nor lioness had been down to drink.
" Surprised at this, they took a circuit of the place, and only
" found a very fresh (early morning) pug of the lion going right
"away in the forest. Then they went round to the spot whence
" I had fired, so on to where she had been sitting. About two
"hundred yards further on they came on her lying dead. She
"had been shot right through the lungs or heart. But the curi-
" ous thing was that they found the tracks of the lion close to
"where she was lying dead, and could see where he had been
" lying beside her, evidently trying to wake her and coax her to
" come down to the water. They said he must have lain by her
" all night, and only left her at morning, and hence never went
" down himself to the river to drink. The skin, owing to having
"been on a dead animal for nearly twenty-four hours after it was
" shot, became very brittle, and was much spoiled in the tanning,
" but I patched it up for A. as well as I could. There is no
"doubt about the great affection which the lion bears to the
" lioness, and if two be together and the lioness be wounded, the
"lion will almost invariably charge. I quite well remember
" Jamal's story, and I think, but am not sure, that Rice made a
" sketch of the scene from his account. But it is many years
"ago, and I think Rice would probably remember it more accu
rately than I do."
To the above interesting anecdotes of Lion Shooting in Kathia
war, it may be added that these animals are still occasionally seen
in Bundelkund, and in the country around Jhansi and Gwalior;
and I believe isolated specimens have been met about the upper
waters of the Sone towards the Omerkantuk plateau. I am not
sure, but I myself once saw an animal very like a lion in the
Chibhdl, where, however, I have never met with any other re
cord of their being seen.

^m

1 4S w W
WW®
1 I u' .'i li

.' !'l I

( 451 )
SECTION XVI.
NOTE ON INDIA ALBA.
MUCH of the matter treated of in the corresponding
section of Vol. I. has already been presented in
Section II. of this volume; and it is not proposed here
to recapitulate those brief remarks. Nothing more will
here be attempted, beyond reproducing a section of the
country from the Indus to Candahar — together with a
few sketches illustrative of the line of country traversed
— it leads us, via, Quetta and the Pishin valley head,
across the Khojak to Candahar.

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No. 185- DISTANT VIEW OF CANDAHAR.

The Section of the Highlands of India Alba given, and
the slight outlines reproduced from Vol. I., will explain
themselves, and must suffice for this section of the sub
ject, in which, moreover, I have no personal experience
to offer to the reader further trans Indus than Dhera-
Ghazi-Khan, where, however, I have enjoyed a few runs
after pig in former days, under the auspices of the gallant
S.B., the commander of the regiment of Punjaub cavalry
there quartered in 1854. With a squadron of the regi
ment, under the wurdee-major, or native adjutant, to beat
the jungle, the native officers riding in line with us in
front, it was by such means that the regiment was taught
those useful lessons which they turned to such good
account when they afterwards came to beat up the enemy
Ee 2

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IChcieh. AmJixn
8017'

8400'
Khojakpass\ Toba-plaleaa,. BaLazai. MomaJidxai

East SvJxatwm. M*"*
71-00'
Zhcb Valley. Sahara. Pln. Fori ISuia-o .

1 0,000
. 5.000
fan- 'w>7.

4 — Lib Kandahar Pirfun. Valley

Borai Valley

Ted. - CKohxdL Valley Dera, GhaxL Khan. — *R . Inelus

No. 186-SECTION OF THE SULIEMAN MOUNTAINS FROM THE INDUS TO CANDAHAR.
[NOTE-The above section of country is correct only as to the vertical, and does not attempt to give the lateral, measurements.]

I 8 Co

B 3 z X <

Section XVI. ]

India Alba.

163

at the Siege of Delhi and elsewhere; well did they then
vindicate their training, and, with gallant leaders for their
officers, earned several V.C.'s, and for themselves high
reputation as dashing cavalry.

No. 187— QUETTA AND THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.
As this section of my subject — at all times interesting
— might at any moment rise to extreme political interest-
I would refer the reader to the corresponding section in
Vol. I, where the subject is rather fully treated of —
though not in a sporting point of view: it is further

No. 188— THE RUINED MOGHUL FORTRESS OF SIAZGAI.
illustrated by sketches from blocks kindly placed at my
disposal by Sir M. Biddulph, K.C.B. (who traversed those
regions in command), lent by permission of the Council
of the Royal Geographical Society, for the purpose.

__,S0t

No. 189— Spurs of the Kirtar Range
impinging on the Indus.

( 454 )

SECTION XVII.
NOTE ON CEYLON.
I had hoped to have presented the reader of this
section with some account of elephant and elk
shooting, from the pen of my friend the late Lieut. -
General H. A. Sarel, C.B., whose lamented death is
announced as these sheets are passing through the press.
I can now only refer the reader interested in such sports
to that pleasant work by Sir S. W. Baker, "Eight Years
in Ceylon," and to several chapters on the subject in a
work, "Travels in Ceylon and Continental India," by Dr.
W. Hoffmeister, travelling Physician to H.R.H. Prince
Waldemar of Prussia (1847), to which work I have al
ready alluded in Section VII., "Nepal."
As regards a general description of this fair Eastern
Isle, I would refer the reader to the corresponding section
in Vol. I. of this work,* where the subject is rather fully
* "Highlands of India," 1882, Harrison and Sons, 59 Pall Mall.

No. 190-THE UPPER LAKE OF CANDY, CEYLON.

Section XVIL] Ceylon. 455
treated. I had noted a few further points for picturesque
description, but probably the references I have given to
the two able and interesting writers on the subject may
suffice.

I now take leave of my pleasant subject — "The High
lands of India" — which has for several years past been
to me a labour of love, and if of no other value hap,
at any rate, served to recall to mind many a fair scene
of the "sublime and beautiful," experienced during an
active life of more than thirty years in the East, in which
I devoted most of my leave to "held sports and travel"
throughout the Indian peninsula; and when I recall the
experiences of warfare, climate, encounters with wild
beasts, and tropical heat through Avhich it has been my
lot to pass unscathed, where so many stronger men have
fallen by my side, I feel I should be ungrateful not to
acknowledge the hand of a merciful Providence, who
has brought me in safety to my native country after
long wanderings, and to my haven of rest on the shores
of the Solent Sea.

No. 191— RUINED FORTRESS OF SI(N)GIRI,
CEYLON.

( 456 )

NOTE.
I am indebted to Messrs. Bourne and Shepherd, of
Calcutta and Simla, and to Messrs. Phillips, of Darjeeling,
for permission to reproduce the following typical Ethno
logical Illustrations, as well as those at end of Section
VIII.

( 457 )
APPENDIX.
ETHNOLOGICAL.

1 . .

No. 192— Mahomedan Women (.Cashmere).

No. 193— Cashmere Peasants, Boatmen, etc.

Appendix.

Ifi8

No. 194— Sikh and Dogra.Soldiers (Cashmere).

No. 19b—Guddies (Barmawar and Kangra Valleys).

Appendix.

459

No. 196— Gurhwallies.

Appendix.

460

No 191— A Bhootia [Darjeeling).

Appendix.

461

No. 198— A Bhootia Woman.

Appendix.

462

^gjw^&tfjy

No. 199— A Darjeeling Milkman,
(Lepcha)

Appendix.

463

No. 200— A Sikhim Llama (Bhcotia),

Appendix.

464

No. 201— Todars (or Tonwars) Nilgherries.

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