K "I give theft Books ling of a College in this Colony" Gift of Dr. Hiram Bingham of the Class of 1898 1907 VENEZUELA : A VISIT TO THE GOLD MINES OF GUYANA, AND VOYAGE UP THE RIVER ORINOCO DURING 1886, with a brief sketch of THE MINERAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES OF VENEZUELA, AND ITS HISTORY TO THE PRESENT TIME. With a Map of the Mines ; And Appendices containing the Mining Laws of Venezuela, Report on the Mines by the Minister of War, Extract from British Consular Reports, And an Outline of the Clauses of Treaties under which Great Britain Claims certain Territories on the Essequibo; WILLIAM BARRY, C.E. FIRST EDITION. fLon&on : Marshall Bros., Amen Corner, 1886. S18 CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Beasons for journey — Leave Southampton — Description of Passengers — Bough passage — Beach Barbadoes — St. Vincent '¦ — Grenada — Treatment on Board — Tropical storm — Description of Grenada — Government officials — Seasons of Native indolence — Arrive at Trinidad — Gulf of Paria— Port of Spain — Visit to sugar estate — Improved processes — Increasing plantations of Cacao — Extra taxation on goods to Venezuela— Venezuelan Generals — Use of the knife. CHAPTER II. Leave for Cindad Bolivar — Passport system — Going up the Orinoco — Difficulties of Navigation — IndiariB — Plantations — Barrancas — Shipping cattle — Raleigh's Fort — Buried Treasures — Las Tablas — Sport on the river — Cindad Bolivar — Description of Statues — Heat — Locusts — Hospital — Water supply — Mosquitoes — Custom House — Hotel accommodation — High-handed justice — Telegraphs — Ferry boats — Danger — Numerous upsets — Meteor seen. CHAPTER III. Sketch of early History of Venezuela — Pearl fishery — Name of Guyana — Aguerra, his death — Barre's attempt — Baleigh'a voyages to Venezuela — Trinidad taken by Sir Balf Abercrombie — Establishment of Missions — Capital — Caracas — Eailway — Zamboes — Changes of Presidents — Grants of land — Concessions — Injury to Country — Tonquin beans — Extra duties on Trinidad imports — Exorbitant Customs — Charges — Stamps, &c. CHAPTER IV. No banks — Drain of specie from Guyana — Coinage of money — Discontent in Guyana — Neglect of — Guyana a separate State — Mining district — England's claim to Watershed of Esseqeubo — Emigration from Demerara — Waterway and carriage from Demerara — Bising of miners — Military power — Mining Code — Report of Minister — Coyuni river. CHAPTER V. Treatment by Spaniards — Their Cruelties — Successive Bands — Missions — First Bebellion — Final rising — African Slaves — Freedom t— Earthquake — War to the death — Constitution — Succession of Presidents — Gusman Blanco — Venezuelan Loan. CHAPTER VI. Venezuela, boundaries of — Size — Population — Guyana — Division — French Explorers — Forest bell about equator — Upata — Description of scenery — Cattle and horse farming — Roads — Railway — Prospects of — Improvements of roads — Difficulties of transit — Tolls— -Capa bilities of Guyana. CHAPTER VII. Journey to the mines — Down the river to Las Tablas — Custom House — Hotel — Start with Mules — Falls of Caroni — Lost in the storm — St. Jose — A sporting adventure— Paradara — TJpata — Crossing the Divide — La Florida — Guacipati — Rejoicings there. CHAPTER VIII. Departure from Guacipati — Ride to Callao — Description of — El Callao Mine — Callao Bis — New Callao — West Callao — Caratal district — Chili — Austin's Concessions — Panama— Potosi or Peru — La Victoria — Gold surface diggings — Quartz mining — Return to Las Tablas — Union and Cartago — Lode and machinery — Half-ounce — Company, formation of — Probable. CHAPTER IX. Start from Las Tablas — Cindad Bolivar — Boat hiring — Crew — Start — Pass mouth of Coroni — Cross current — One-eyed Captain — Steering — Chances of upset — Gale of wind— Stop for the night — Beasts, &c, as neighbours — River beasts, birds, and fishes — Scenery — Sunrise — Off again — Cooking on board — Second day — Run before the wind— Stoppages — Second night — Captain's fears — Trading — In sight of Bolivar — Crew pulling against the stream — Stuck on a rock — Caymans — Port at last — Military demonstrations — A prisoner — Fancy shooting — Shelter — Bolivar in a Scare — Seizure of steamer — Machinery sent up river — Safe return and shipment to Las Tablas. CHAPTER X. Leave Bolivar — Locusts — Down the river — Touch at Las Tablas — Barrancas — Ship 200 cattle — Down the river — Beach Trinidad Delay for six days — Stupidity of arrangements— Life in Trinidad On board the Eden — Grenada— St. Vincent — Barbadoes Change to R.M.S. Para— Quarantine — Smallpox — Yellow fever — Fine passage Azores — Plymouth — England again. CHAPTER XI. Concluding Remarks. Appendix A.— Report on Mines by Venezuelan Minister. Ap pendix B — Mining Laws of Venezuela. Appendix C — Consul Reddan's Report, 1885. Appendix D. — Treaties iceding Great Britain the district of Essequebo. CHAPTER I. JHE year 1885 will be long remembered for the great depression in trade, and no class suffered more severely than British inves tors in Foreign mining properties ; more especially in gold mines. The average investor, terrified by the fall in securities, rushed headlong into the market, to get rid of his already depreciated property, and by his own foolish impetuosity, added considerably to his losses, by still further depressing an already falling market. Every one was anxious to get out on any terms, and gold mines, whether good or bad, became a drug in the market. Of all these mines, those in South America fell most into disrepute. It was remembered that the only mine which was a paying concern in Venezuela, was owned and worked by parties resident on the spot, and that hitherto no English adventure in that country had been successful. The Victoria Gold Company of Venezuela, of which at that time I was a shareholder, was no excep tion to the general rule. Its shares fell to nothing. The directors were accused of all sorts of misdemeanours, and some even went so far as to say that there was no mine or property of that name whatever. In consequence of all these adverse reports and criticisms, the Company came to a standstill until early in January, 1886, when some of the shareholders, recovering a little from their panic, determined to reform 6 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. the Company under the name of " Victory, Limited," and to send out one of their directors to investigate and report upon the capabilities of the property, and put the affair into working order. Finally I was selected for this purpose, and accordingly, armed with the fullest powers and with an efficient staff, I left England by Royal Mail Steamship from Southampton, early in March, 1886. A passenger steamer is indeed a world in miniature. Among our 50 passengers, every class seemed represen ted : Royalty by the governor of one of our West India Islands with his wife and family, who were graciously condescending, yet conscious of their own- importance : Military rule by a colonel going to take up his command, who seemed to have swallowed all the ramrods of his regiment after their disuse, and whose digestion had not enabled him to get rid of them, so stiff and upright was he : the Navy by a most genial captain and pleasant officers of the ship : the Clergy, as usual, were well represented, from the orthodox English clergyman down to a small choir of Salvationists, who were taking their peculiar doctrines to a foreign clime, and who were in the habit of giving us their songs every evening : the comic element was there in force ; it was from them that the following hymn was proposed as a pleasing variety to the Salvationist leader, and likely to be of use where they were going : — God Almighty love the nigger,1 God Almighty love him well, God Almighty love the nigger, And he know him by him smell ! VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. J The majesty of the Law by barristers of family, who, being utter failures at home, were thought good enough to be made judges to dispense law in her Majesty's colonies : Music and Arts by one or two young ladies who could play and sing, and several more who thought they could, together with the usual male tenor, who sang sentimental songs of the "Dearest Ever" and " My Darling " class, with great muscular exertion about his shoulders, and the bold baritone, who nightly favours with " As we lay, all that day, in the Ba-ha-hay of Biscay ho ! a Scotch gentleman also had a fiddle, on which he was very proud of scraping out " Auld lang Syne," "Coming thro' the Rye," "The MacGregor's Gathering," &c, about midnight, while sitting on the taffrail, in a dismal and utterly out of time and tune manner, which was very depressing : Sport also had its representative in a young gentleman of our own party^ who, having provided himself with quite an arsenal in the way of rifles, revolvers, bowie knives, and ammuni tion, was constantly enquiring about the prospect of shooting big game in South America, and expressing his fervent desire to come face to face with tigers. Our voyage out, was, for the first 6 days, a constant succession of gales, during which most of the passengers favored a strict retirement in their own cabins. The few of us who remained, seemed to get on very pleasantly together, although we somewhat roused the ire of the worthy chief mate, by christening the ship " The old Steam Roller," a name she fairly earned by her constant sideway action, which had the effect of 8 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. generally depositing any unwary promenaders in the lee scuppers, frequently causing our soup to exchange its place in our plates for the outsides of our waistcoats, and on one occasion all the tureens of soup and the chief steward and his satellites on the cabin floor. At last the long wished for fine weather came, and, when two days from Barbadoes, we mustered a full table, and the ladies appeared on deck. Quoits as played on board ship engaged the male passengers. Music in the evenings, and on the last one our Captain enclosed the quarter-deck with side awnings, and by the light of colored lanterns a very pleasant ball room was impro vised. Every one relaxed, and general regrets were expressed at the prospect of closing our voyage so soon. We reached the harbour of Barbadoes just in time to get to our anchorage before dark, being some 10 hours behind time, after one of the roughest passages the ship had ever experienced and with strong head winds most of the way. At Barbadoes we separated to pursue our ways by the different intercolonial steamers, which are appointed to convey the mails to the islands and ports. Our party went on by the one which, touching at St. Vincent and Grenada, eventually landed us at Trinidad. The first thing all passengers do on reaching Barba does is to rush on shore and consume a lunch of flying fish and tropical fruits, washed down with rum punch iced at the ice house, and then look at the latest news from England which is there posted up in the shape of VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 9 telegrams received daily, containing a summary of the most important news. Having duly conformed to these customs, and wandered for some time about the streets, which were busy enough with the mule carts bringing sugar hogsheads for shipment, then actively going on, negro and colored women in their bright dresses selling fruit and provisions, and men of the same class all carrying whatever they had on their heads ; we returned to our ship and proceeded to transport our selves and baggage to R. M. S. " Esk," one of the intercolonial boats, of 2600 tons or thereabouts. These vessels are specially constructed with a view to the comfort of passengers in hot climates, and are very convenient and cool, cabins well arranged, saloon large and well fitted, and a number of separate tables, holding eight or ten each, provided, so that parties may contrive to be together as much as they please. A ladies' cabin and smoking room also on deck, and the baths, lavatories, &c, all that can be desired. I wish I could say as much about the living, but the old saying that " while God finds food the devil finds cooks " is fully exemplified on these vessels. Whether it is that they think passengers should, on reaching hot climates, be acclimatised, and for this purpose they should eat little, and therefore appetising things should not be placed before them, or whether it is that the passengers in these boats are generally only there for two or three days, and it is a matter of little consequence how they fare for that short time, I will not venture to decide, but certain it is that the living does not come up to that supplied by the ships sailing from England to Barbadoes, and it is a matter IO VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. which the Directors of the Royal Mail Steamers should look into if they desire to keep their passengers traffic which is now largely threatened by competing lines from France and New York, with increased accommodation and reduced fares. We left Barbadoes at 6 p.m. with a very scratch lot of passengers, comprising Colonists of all sorts returning to their own islands ; Explorers going out either on their own account or for their various Governments ; Orchid collectors ; German shopkeepers and assistants, and quite a number of colored persons, male and female, principally from Martinique, proceeding to the gold mines in Venezuela in search of employment of one sort or another. These last were deck passengers, and. with their belongings, were herded together on the deck forward without shelter. On our arrival at St. Vincent, we had our first ex perience of a tropical storm. For four hours the heavens were literally opened, and rain descended in torrents. Tons of water fell on the decks driving the passengers below, and even the lower decks were not free from the deluge About 2 a.m. the rain moderated, and the Captain having arrived from the shore (where he had been to dine with some island official), we started for Grenada. The following morning, on going forward to look out for land, I witnessed a sight worthy the pencil of a Callot. The wretched deck passengers — yellow, brown, and black — who had been exposed to the full fury of the tempest, were, in the morning sunshine drying their drenched plumes ; boxes, bags and bundles VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. II were opened, soaked and drenched finery hung up to dry. Here a colored lady, had put on her best bib and Tucker, evidently an importation from some rag shop in Belgravia ; there a darker matron in nearly nature's clothing. Men — some in trousers, some in coats only, and the majority in neither one nor the other, were hanging up their clothes in all places to dry, while others were occupied in preparing as best they might the morning meal, and all chattering like so many monkeys, in the best of spirits, and full of fun and repartee, for your French Creole is to the full as quick and impulsive as the native Irishman of Ireland. We arrived at Grenada about 5 a.m. As point after point, was opened, exclamations of surprise and delight were heard on all sides. Seen under the rising sun, the town presented a truly lovely picture, while the rich estates surrounding it, and the hills crowned with primeval forest towering above all, formed a picture never to be forgotten. Grenada is justly termed the sanatorium of the West Indies. Not only is its climate delightful and salubrious, but 'its products are varied. Fruits of all sorts grow in profusion. Sugar, Coffee, Cocoa, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Cloves, Ginger, Nutmegs, Pimento abound. Pineapples of the finest sorts are now a large article of export. Limes, Lemons, Citrons, Oranges, Grapes, Bread Fruit, and Cocoa Nuts in pro fusion, while living is more moderate than at any other island. Yellow fever is unknown, and all other fevers and ailments very rare. Hospitality is still practised there on the true old West Indian style, and the visitor 12 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. is made to feel himself at home in every place he enters, while the beautiful scenery and tropical vegetation in its most charming aspects allure him to excursions over this delightful island. Grenada shares with the other islands in the present depression, owing to depreciation in price of cane sugar, and estates are being rapidly thrown up, to be replanted in Cacao. I shall have more to say on this subject when treating of Trinidad. Grenada is like other small islands, a Crown Colony, governed by a travelling governor with a resident subordinate, a chief judge and other assistants, who hold occasional assizes, and a whole tribe of subordinate officials, secretaries, &c, who seem to be sent there on the principles of Lucus a Non Lucendo ; that is, because they know nothing about the real wants of the Colonies. These gentry are generally what whould be termed in a china factory, wasters ; that is, either cracked, warped, or otherwise useless ; cast offs from the foreign office, sent out to show off their clothes, incapacity and arrogance, at the expense of the colony they misunder stand and misgovern. A stipendiary magistrate of common intelligence and a dozen policeman, would serve to maintain order in any of these islands, but in that case, his excellency the governor, his sub-excellency the chief secretary, his high mightiness the chief judge, and their honors the subordinates, would have to get their living by their own exertions, which would in most cases be a very difficult matter to them. Con sequently, the islands are taxed heavily, to furnish VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 13 salaries and appointments for these paupers, so that patronage may flourish, while these wretched dependen cies have not even the privilege of voting their own taxation. While sugar estates and coffee plantations paid their owners thousands a year, these things were only looked at as little vexations, but now, owing to the failure of both these sources of income, and the increased difficulty of obtaining, not a fortune, but a living, they are becoming a crying evil of great magnitude, and in the end will lead, in many instances, to the abandon ment by the white cultivators, of their estates, which,, falling gradually either into bush or the hands of a colored population, who are invincibly idle, and will not do a stroke more work than will provide them a bare subsistence, will fail to yield any returns, and the islands thereabouts must return to a state of savagery,. perhaps as bad as that of St. Domingo or Hayti itself, where it is well known that even human flesh has been exposed publicly for sale in the markets. One great difficulty that presents itself to those who hope to excite emulation, and so stimulate activity in the colored population, is the total want of family or class pride. One incentive to work among Europeans is the maintenance of a certain position and rank, and a desire to uphold the family. The coloured colonist has none of this. He is, so to speak, his own ancestor. He has no family pride. Whether he has become rich, and can ride in his carriage, or remains poor and walks about with a Breech cloth only, he claims equal respect and 14 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. attention from his fellows. All are alike, the sons and , daughters of slaves, and the negro, with irreproachable hat and dress, will chat with (as an equal) the negro without any, or if not, then he is thought stuck up and proud, and becomes an object of mistrust and hatred to his class. What motive have they then for work. Clothes, except for display, are cumbersome and incon venient in such a climate. No artistic tastes have been developed among them. The shelter of a few palm branches is quite as useful as the grandest mansion. As to food, a plantain or mango eaten in the open air suffices, and hitherto there have been no Gourmands among them. Their women from the highest to the lowest understand the preparation of certain dishes, such as Pepperpot (a very delicious dish), which is their highest form of cookery. They have coffee, cocoa, and sugar at hand, and as to liquors, new Rum has hitherto held the palm over Champagnes, Clarets, and all expen sive European products. Why then thould they work ? Nature provides without trouble all they want. In some few generations perhaps they may recognise class distinctions, but unfortunately the leaning of the black race is back to barbarism, and whenever the white element in these islands disappears, which it must do if the present oppressive system of government is main tained, then I fear the hats and clothes will disappear also, and the natural man reappear in all his natural and unadorned majesty Absit Omen. After leaving Grenada where we obtained a plentiful supply of fruit of all kinds from the boats which came off to the ship, we proceeded on to Trinidad. The entrance to the Gulf of Para, at VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 1 5 the lower end of which Port of Spain is situated, is through three openings, called respectively Grand Bocca, Bocca del Serpente, and Bocca Chica. In approaching the coast which is very bold, presenting a solid face of rock many feet high, on which a heavy surge is constantly breaking, these mouths are with difficulty discernable ; and indeed, two of them are very narrow entrances, requiring careful navigation, and they are always approached in daylight. Many a gallant ship has laid her bones there, and even now, with all steam appliances, wrecks are frequent. We entered by the centre opening or Bocca del Serpente, and in a few minutes experienced the change from a wild open ocean to a quiet calm water, over which we steamed rapidly. The Gulf of Para is formed by one of the mouths of the Orinoco, and is gradually closing up at the lower end, where the Port of Spain is situated, owing to the deposits of sand, &c, brought down yearly by the great river, which rises and falls with the greatest regularity. For six months it increases in volume and then for six months diminishes, the difference in depth being some 80 feet. This rise and fall is occasioned by the melting of the snows in the Andes, and is very little influenced by the rainy or dry seasons of Venezuela, through which it runs, for the greater part of its course. Port of Spain, the Capital of Trinidad, situated at the lower end of the Gulf of Para, is a city of some considerable size, it is fairly healthy, and is surrounded by numerous villas and estates, to which the merchants and wealthier inhabitants retire after business hours. l6 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Great attention is now paid to the water supply and drainage, and during the day the town presents a very busy and active appearance. Like all the other islands Sugar has been the staple product, and is still very largely cultivated. Indeed the largest establishment for the manufacture of sugar, capable of turning out 70 to 80 tons per day, is situated about 30 miles by railway from the capital. Furnished with letters of introduction from Sir John Lubbock, we visited this factory, were shown all over it, and had the working and mode of manufacture explained by its very able and hospitable superintendent, Mr. Abel. The principal building is a large erection, at one end of which the sugar canes are passed in from the railway trucks, which come close up, and after being crushed, boiled, evaporated, and put through all the most modern processes, the sugar in bags, and the rum in puncheons are ready for delivery at the other end, where, being again placed on the railway trucks, they are taken down to the port for shipment. Many sugar estates contribute their canes to supply this vast estab lishment ; upwards of 25 miles of railway is laid through the fields of sugar, while seven steam engines and a proportionate number of waggons are constantly at work bringing up the cut cane, and removing the finished products. By this sort of joint stock premises the price of manufacturing is greatly reduced, and 'the best coloured crystals can be delivered free on board for £g per ton, and at that price pay a fair interest on the capital employed. Unfortunately, with the present VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 17 competition from foreign countries, and the premiums allowed by them to their own manufacturers, in order to stimulate the production, and procure employment for their own population, these prices cannot now be obtained, and consequently the industry, so far as British Colonists are concerned, is falling off. Proprietors of estates, who are obliged to erect their own mills, and manufacture their own crops, cannot compete. The cost of the newest machinery is enormous, and the return doubtful, so the properties are in many cases thrown up, in order that Germans and' Frenchmen should be fully employed, and that English men should have bad sugar at i^d., instead of good at 2d. per pound. Many estates, formerly in sugar, are now being planted in cacao, which thrives well here, and which seems to be looked upon as the future crop of this island. The cultivation is easy, and little or no machinery required to prepare the beans for market, but it takes from five to seven years (according to situation) for the trees to come into bearing, which deters many private owners with small means from going into this cultivation, while large commercial houses in Glasgow or elsewhere, who hold, either by mortgage, or by making* advances, numbers of sugar estates in many of the West India Islands, have, with a very short sighted policy, actually forbidden their overseers or managers to permit the planting of cacao, for fear that when once the trees were grown, and in bearing, the proprietors might l8 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. escape from their clutches ; as no advances would be required, and the estates here would consequently pass from their control, it being by their manipulations of the markets in England that the principal large profits are made. The Governor's residence is very finely situated, about a mile from the town. The park surrounding it is planted with almost every variety of tree and plant, while the Botanical gardens adjoining are supposed to contain the finest and most varied assortment in the West Indies, and from it the Colonists are enabled to obtain new varieties and plants of cacao, coffee, chinchona, nutmegs, or whatever else they may desire to make plantations of. The collection of West Indian and South American orchids is unrivalled. While Trinidad, by its position at the mouth of the Orinoco, should command a great trade with the province of Guyana, it is hampered and obstructed by the policy of the Venezuelan government, which imposes an extra ad valorem duty of 30 per cent, on whatever comes from or through Trinidad ; and even ships touching there, are liable to this impost. This policy, so injurious to the trade of Venezuela itself, originated in the pique of one of its presidents, on account of the asylum afforded to rebels, who, having risen against the government and been defeated, found a safe refuge there, and a point of departure from which to organize future excursions. Port of Spain does, indeed, swarm with expatriated Venezuelan generals of VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. ig all sorts and kinds, mostly impecunious, and ready to accept a dollar or a dinner from any one disposed to offer either of these articles, while they retain all the pride and dignity of heroes fallen from their high estate. Here they wait until some bolder spirit makes a new pronunciamento^ when they hurry eagerly, to fall, like vultures, on their poor native country, plundering every where, and murdering without remorse, any unfortunates of the other party who may chance to fall into their hands. If the venture, perchance, succeeds, then they become an everlasting drag on the new government, claiming rewards for services never rendered, often obtaining grants and concessions, ruinous to all trade ; or, if the venture (as is usually the case), fails, either through the leader having come to some private under standing with the government, by which he is paid to retire and desert his followers, or by some other general making some private arrangements to betray his leader and all the rest, then, in either of these cases, the survivors return to their lair in Trinidad, to await a. more fortunate opportunity. Apropos of Venezuelan generals, I heard a curious story out there : — These worthies are the only people allowed to wear swords in public, consequently you will always know if a man is a general, for if so, he will surely have a sword. A Major of one of our regiments, being out in Venezuela, riding through the interior, where it is usual 20 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. to go armed with pistol and knife, one morning, being about to pay a visit to the governor, asked his servant for his sword, intending to put it on with his uniform. The man gravely asked his rank in the army, and on being told, observed that officers of that rank, when not on duty, were not allowed to wear swords, but, that, if his master liked, he, being a geneial, would wear it, and when it was wanted, he could hand it over for use. The Major used to speak, afterwards, with great glee of his servant, " The General." Trinidad relies greatly for its labour supply on Coolies and Chinese. These people are numerous, and have separate towns of their own. They are industrious and contrive to accumulate considerable property, but they are a migratory population, generally returning home when they have earned a sufficiency. Some, however, have finally settled down and become respectable and wealthy citizens. In their quarrels the use of the knife is very frequent, and wife murder through jealousy is a common crime. The present Chief Justice is doing all in his power to put down the use of the knife, by the most severe punishments. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 21 CHAPTER II. |FTER some days spent at Port of Spain, varied by excursions to the most noteworthy spots, we embarked on board the steamer "Bolivar," to proceed up the Orinoco. This steamer, which runs between Port of Spain and Cindad Bolivar every fortnight, is the property of a Venezuelan company and is built on the American system, that is, with fine lines under water, and all the cabins, &c, on deck, high pressure beam engines, &c, and is capable of steaming 16 or 18 miles an hour with a very small draught of water. We were obliged, before embarking, to obtain a passport, and to produce a list of our luggage signed by the Consul. The time occupied by the journey is two days, and the fare 30 dollars or about £6 sterling. We left Trinidad about 6 p.m., and ran up the Gulf of Para to the bar at the mouth of the river. Here there is very little water, and as the Orinoco was at its lowest, great doubts were expressed about our getting over, and if we stuck, we might (as we were told) remain there for a week or so until the river rose sufficiently to float us off. However, as it happened, we just scraped through with a bump or two, and early in the morning we were running up the mighty river against a current of some 4 miles an hour. The channel chosen by the steamer is not that 22 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. selected by sailing vessels or steamers of great draught, but is considered the shortest, and for scenery the most beautiful. Generally the channel seemed from one to two miles wide, while down to the water's edge ran the heavy primaeval forest. Occasionally large masses of the bank had given way, and the fallen trees- lay far out in the stream, with their huge branches interlacing and intercepting the debris coming down, until at last new promontaries and islands were formed. At intervals openings would occur where lawn-like banks of grass ran down to the water's edge, dotted here and there with trees ; many covered with blossoms, and at a distance closely resembling the upper reaches of the Thames. At another place the mangrov.es hung heavy over the water, extending their roots far outwards ; while looking through their dark foliage the still water could be seen extending far away, terminating in dismal swamps, and through all this roamed leopards, tiger cats, tapirs, and monkeys at their own sweet will. Flamingos, storks and cranes stalked about, of varied and beautiful colors ; parrots and lories are flying over head, while ducks and waterfowl, of all sorts, up to swans are constantly being met with, and on all this fair land no human foot treads. Snakes of the most poisonous sorts infest the woods, while the caymans and fish of carnivorous propensities swarm in the water. In every swamp and lagoon the dreaded electric eel abides in hundreds, while the great water snake often 50 feet in length is not uncommon. It seems the paradise of wild beasts, and the jaguar will stop while drinking, or VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 23 the tapir look up from browsing on the grass, and the monkey pause in his swinging from tree to tree as we hurry noisely by, while a drowsy alligator floats lazily on, his head half out of the water, without paying the least attention, until perhaps a conical bullet from a Winchester rifle, or from the revolver which every one carries, rouses him to a knowledge that it is not good to trust too much to mankind. As the day goes on we steam through miles and miles of such scenery, every succeeding bend opening up new beauties. Here islands clothed in verdure, anon the banks closing together so that we almost pass under the branches of overhanging trees, then widening out till the shores seem to recede almost from view and all under a burning, glistening sunlight, while the river with its dark brown water runs sullenly on without a ripple. All noises cease, the very air quivers with the heat, and the passengers, in desperation, and shirts and trousers, rush to the bar for cooling iced drinks to support exhausted nature. With the evening comes a renewal of the wild beasts' cries, the chatter of the monkeys and the screams of the birds. Then a great darkness and the steamer beats on her way, amid a gloom penetrable only by the experienced eye of our pilot. We are aroused very early by the news that we are approaching a settlement. Every one turns out, and we come suddenly upon an Indian village. Two or three canoes made of single logs, burnt out and scraped with shells into form ; four or five houses, being merely poles stuck in the ground and covered with a thatch of palm leaves, while the population, in all its native simplicity and red 24 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. colour, turns out to look at us. These Indians, who are harmless, live principally by fishing. They are of Carib descent and were formerly much more numerous, but the cruelties practised on them by successive parties of Spaniards, when on their way up this river, to excite a rebellion or revolution, or on their return after their failure, have driven them away, or at least much further back into the woods. Among other curious customs of these tribes is one which must sometimes put them to great incovenience. If any one dies in a village, he is wrapped up in strips of fibre, then put into his canoe, if he has one, if not, into his hammock, and suspended as far from the ground as possible between two posts of his house, and then all the survivors leave the village and proceed to settle elsewhere. This must at certain seasons prove very inconvenient, jand I am assured, on native testimony, that one astute old chief always had any of his people, who seemed to show symtoms of dissolution, carried away from the village to die in the woods, or be eaten there as the case might be, so saving the time and trouble of migration to the rest ; but, added my informant, he was not always successful, as some times they would contrive to crawl back again to die. These villages have about four or five acres of wood round them cleared out by fire, and here they grow Indian corn and plantains, sufficient — with the fish they catch — to keep them. Those I saw looked fat and well. All this country for hundreds of miles on each side must eventually become very valuable. The land is of VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 25 the richest and most productive; the Indian corn there grown exceeds in size all I have ever seen. Let but the forest fall and the white man get a footing, and sugar, cotton, cacao, coffee, tobacco, spices and all sorts of fruits will grow in abundance, and make enormous returns ; while the great river itself will prove^a highway, facilitating their ready shipment to those less favored countries, which consume without being able to produce them. We have passed the Indian village and half-a-dozen 1 similar to it, and now we approach the first white settle ment. This proves to be a single hut, varying but little from the Indian ones, except that it is enclosed partly by walls made of mud baked in the sun. The children too have something on, while one or two garments hang in the sun to dry, and the garden round shows a little more variety ; some sugar canes, a papau tree and four or five cocoa nuts, but the canoe and the general dirt and squalor, and color too are very much the same. Leaving this lonely squatter we push on, and presently; on the right bank, we come in sight of a more pretentious abode. This is a small sugar plantation. We see the primitive appliances for crushing the cane, and the open boiling house, where in large iron pans, the juice is boiled and evaporated until a coarse brown product is obtained ; the residue being converted into very good rum, in a still something like an old tea kettle. A Demerara planter would recoil with horror from this primitive mode of manufacture, but it answers the owner's purpose well enough ; he has no competition to put up with. 26 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. All foreign sugars are absolutely prohibited, and once he has obtained permission to grow sugar, his product will command from five to six pence per pound. Think of this all you beetroot growers and free traders, who ruin your own Colonies for the benefit of foreigners with their draw-backs and bonuses. House now succeeds house, and plantation plantation, with either sugar or tobacco, at every two or three miles> until we reach Barrancas, a straggling village with a large corral or penn, capable of holding three or four hundred head of cattle, and from which they are shipped, and carried by this vessel on her, return voyage to Trinidad, for the supply of beef to that island. These cattle, all young bulls, driven in from the sur rounding savannahs, where they are bred, in an almost wild state, are placed in this corral from which a narrow road runs down to the ship's side. Then ensues a lively scene. Pressed by the Peons on horseback behind while an old and trained bull, kept especially for the purpose, walks in front of the herd, they push and jostle till they arrive at the narrow outlet. Here a crush occurs, those in the rear push forward, those in front try to get back, some twenty or thirty are driven over while the rest, maddened by their efforts, turn on the Peons and force their way into the open space. Then all is gone over again, until the necessary number are on board, or until they cannot any longer be brought up to the passage. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 27 In the latter case, a peon dismounts, and lasso in hand, boldly walks among them ; selecting the most troublesome, he throws one end of his lasso, made of bulls hide over his horns, passes the other down to the ship, where it is attached to the windlass, and the wretched animal, every limb pushed forward in mute protest against this mode of progression, is positively wound down into the hold ; others follow, until the Corral is' at length cleared and the ship goes on her way. The men employed in this work are all daring and practised horsemen and well skilled in the use of the lasso, while their small but very active horses turn and twist and jump out of the way of the infuriated animals without in any way disturbing the seat of their riders. After leaving Barrancas the river changes its aspect ; the banks are further apart. Huge stoney bluffs appear, the land is more open while in the distance appear the mountains of Guyana, a lower spur or branch of the Great Chains of the Andes. Now, turning a sharp corner, we open a vast sheet of water, at the lower end of which appears in the distance, evidently some fortress. This is the famous fort built by Sir Walter Raleigh when that bold buccaneer forced his way up the Orinoco and proceeded to search for the land of El Dorado among the possessions of the Spaniards. Curiously enough, Raleigh and his followers, according to all traditions must in their attempted passage through the country have actually passed over the spot where now the greatest quantities of gold are procured. I mean the great mine of El Callao, and it was this journey 28 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. which, eventually, through the cowardice of James I., and his fear of the Spaniard, lost Raleigh his head. The proud Viceroy of South America never forgot or forgave the blow inflicted on his prestige and power by the bold Englishman, and Raleigh's blood' was needed to quiet the fears and satisfy the pride of the Spaniard whom he had so often defeated. It is believed in the country that Raleigh and his followers buried great treasures in and around the fort, previous to their departure, but no one seems to have found any of them. The land round it for many miles is open, and of the most fertile nature, but without inhabitants, and I was assured that neither the govern ment nor any other authority would interfere with any one who chose to take up his abode and help himself to as much land as he wanted, whether one or hundreds of acres, now lying waste. Passing Raleigh's fort we approached Las Tablas, a small town on the river's edge and at which persons visiting the mines, generally disembark, a process attended with some difficuly unless you have previously been to Cindad Bolivar and obtained a permit. Here we took in a few passengers and pro ceeded to Cindad Bolivar, which we reached on the afternoon of the second day after leaving Trinidad. Our young sporting friend had, during the voyage, been extremely active with his rifle, but had not suc ceeded beyond frightening several large birds and alligators. He explained to me that the motion of the vessel rendered shooting with the rifle exceedingly VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 20, difficult and quite different to shooting on land, where you stood still and took your aim. As he assured me he was one of the crack shots of his regiment (volunteers) and was there relied on as capable of making a bulls eye when needed, I received his explanation with all the reliance which his experience seemed to guarantee. It was in the evening of the second day of our'voyage, shortly after sunset, that I saw a sight ever to be re membered. Darkness in these latitudes closely follows the setting of the sun, but the stars are so bright and the moonlight so clear that this time is generally chosen for a quiet lounge on deck. Suddenly at about a yard distance from the most eastern star of the southern cross, a meteor appeared falling, about the size of a plate, and of such a bright white color that moon and stars and all appeared suddenly to have been extin guished ; for- some seconds it lit up everything like the sun itself, while falling rapidly, then turned suddenly blood red and seemed to sink into the earth a short distance off. So close did it appear that for a minute every breath was held, waiting a final crash and explosion, but nothing more happened, and the night became again serene. I heard afterwards that a huge aerolite was supposed to have fallen near Caracas, some • 5 or 600 miles away. Cindad Bolivar, formerly known as St. Thomas de Angostura, the port of entry for the whole State of Guyana, to which every vessel arriving in the Orinoco is compelled to proceed, in order to clear, is an old 30 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Spanish town placed on a solid rock rising from a vast plain and close to the river side. The town was originally started in 1575, was removed in 1764 to the present site, and in 1790 was called St. Thomas d' Angostura, or St. Thomas of the narrows. After the freedom of the country from Spanish rule, the name was changed to Cindad Bolivar, or the City of Bolivar. The bitters known as Angostura bitters were originally made here, but the manufacture has been removed to Trinidad without improving the article. The Orinoco here is very narrow, and a spur of the same rock on which the town is built juts far into the stream, and renders navigation very unsafe, while the narrowness of the channel enables the town to command all the waterway. Inland, behind the town, are large lagoons so that it is practically unaproachable by any hostile force, if well defended. The rock rises very sharply and the houses seem piled one above the other, while their foundations and- the streets running up to the top of the mound have been regularly blasted out of the solid rock. The little yards or gardens behind, without which no Spanish house is complete, have been brought into cultivation by earth brought in baskets from long distances. The principal street, where the warehouses of the merchants are, faces, and runs parallel to the river ; between it and the water, a long line of fine trees have been planted, affording a much desired shelter during the mid-day heats, which are terrific here. During our VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. ^1 stay the thermometer ranged from ninety-six to one hundred and twelve in the shade, without any breeze, except for about one hour at sunset, when it would blow a perfect gale and then die away altogether. Were it not for this evening breeze I think no human being could live there long. It was the hottest place I was ever in. The bare black rock on which it is built gets almost red hot at noon, and never at any time gets cool. It is said out there, that at the Creation, after the six days were over, the devil stole a mean advantage during the Sunday's rest, and threw up Cindad Bolivar as an outpost. The city received its present name in compliment to the great liberator, a fine bronze statue of whom stands in the public square, opposite the Cathedral. Apropos of bronze statues, it is usual to erect one to any successful general, who for a time succeeds to power, but this is usually pulled down by his successor. A cute Yankee, therefore, who had a share in some American foundry where such things were generally cast, hit upon the idea of having moveable heads which could screw on or off, so that General Brown's statue of to-day would do for General Black to-morrow with a new head, and without any disturbance of the figure, and even proposed to keep a dozen or two of heads in stock to select from. Almost all the houses are of the old Spanish type, one story, or, at most two high, with flat terraced roofs, and windows heavily barred, through which at eve the lover serenades and talks to his mistress ; generally white washed, with a sort of dado or border, up to about three 32 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. feet from the ground, of some bright color — blue, green, or mauve, and at the back an enclosed yard or garden, where the family spend most of their time. All . the houses have large projecting balconies supported on posts, under which the pavement of the streets run, thus affording some shelter to the passenger, The women of the better class are seldom seen, except at early mass about 4 a.m. There are no walks or rides except up and down the principal street by the river "side. All the country round is one dreary desert, either swamp and lagune where Malaria reigns supreme, or else sandy Savannah where nothing but sand paper trees and coarse grass can grow. Yet in this miserable spot large fortunes are made by those who can endure it. The place is not unhealthy, it is merely hot. No other word can describe it. It is perpetually, and for ever, Hot, Hotter, Hottest. During the few days I was detained at Bolivar, a swarm of locusts passed over the town, absolutely, for some hours, obscuring the sun and turning day into twilight. After their passage, the streets were quite slippery with the droppings and the stench abominajble. The trees along the river bank, under whose shade in the evening the exhausted inhabitants used to sit formerly, for the evening breeze, presented the appear ance of being scorched by a fierce fire. All the buds and young leaves were destroyed, and the old ones brown and crumbly. These pests destroy almost every green thing in their forward march. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 33 They have alarmingly increased during the last two years, and are fast eating up all the vegetation in the country. Luckily they do not like Savannah grass or sugar cane, nor do they much injure the cacao trees ; but the cocoa, plantain, bread fruit, orange and lime trees are stripped of every leaf, and in many cases quite killed ; even if they survive, it takes many months before they recover. As a consequence, fruit and vegetables are exceedingly scarce and dear, and the inhabitants rely [principally on corn, bread stuffs, and potatoes from America, which are sold at enormous profits. The Spanish part of the population are Roman Catholics, and there is a Cathedral, but it is a plain building, without ornament, and the spire is very dwarfed, owing to the danger from earthquakes. At the very summit of the rock on which the town stands, and placed so as to secure every puff of air, stands a very large plain building intended for a hospital. The building was commenced during the time the state of Guyana was governed by men selected from the old families of the province. The Dela Costas, for a long time governors, spent considerable sums of their own upon it, but after their ruin the building languished, and it was not until the directors of the great El Callao Mine, came forward with the magnificent donation of ,£"15,000 that there seemed any chance of its completion. Now, however, it is being rapidly pushed on, and the town itself will no doubt contribute whatever more may be required to complete it. When finished it will prove an inestimable boon. Plain to ugliness outside, the 34 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. inside is especially designed for the comfort of the sick, and the question of ventilation and coolness has been particularly considered. The town is well supplied with water from the river. A steam engine and pumps having been erected, which forces it up to the highest parts, and it is laid on for several hours every day. It was at one time supplied from a reservoir erected on the top of the rock, but it was found that the water there bred mosquitos in millions, and the tank or reservoir system had to be given up. During the dry season the town is comparatively free from these pests, but in the wet time they swarm in myriads, and mosquito nets are a necessity at night, if sleep is to be hoped for. There are one or two sorts of mosquito in this country, especially venomous: one of a greenish yellow tint which, in addition to stinging, and sucking ones blood, deposits a small egg at the bottom of the wound, from which in due course a worm or maggot is hatched, and this proceeds to bury itself in the flesh, growing to d very considerable size, and causing great pain. It requires a very experienced person to remove them, as, if broken they cause severe running sores, which last several months, and are very difficult to cure. Luckily this sort of mosquito is not very common, but I met several instances of persons suffering from their stings. On landing at Cindad Bolivar, the traveller is met with the most troublesome Custom House restrictions and regulations. Until a permit is obtained, Custom House officers on board, and sentries duly placed at the gangways, no one is permitted to leave the ship,. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 35 and this, owing to the laziness or insolence of the lower officials, takes some hours. Then every package or parcel has to be carried on shore and up to the Custom House by a soldier, who is entitled to a considerable sum for his services. There they must remain, for the presence of the chief, who attends for two or three hours only in the day. In his absence, nothing can be done, and it is very unwise to leave your luggage, even for a minute, out of your sight, it is so apt to disappear altogether. After every thing has been turned over, and flagrant attempts made to seize anything that appears new, the traveller is at last permitted to have his luggage taken to his hotel by another soldier at a fixed tariff. In my case the charge amounted to some £1 for a distance of less than 400 yards altogether. The employment of soldiers to land all goods at a specified tariff, is one of the means employed by government to pay them, as beyond this, they have little or nothing to depend on. Goods and baggage could easily be landed and warehoused at a quarter of the price now charged, were it permitted to use one's own servants, or to select labourers, but this would compel the government to pay the soldiers, while at present they are at free quarters, living as it were on the merchants and travellers. The hotel accommodation in Cindad Bolivar is very limited. You certainly can get a room in which to swing your hammock, and in some of them there is a canvas stretcher, a jug and basin, generally of iron, and 36 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. a cane chair. Your meals' must be taken at regular . hours (n and 6) at a table d' hote, where the food is plentiful if not appetizing, but of privacy or quietness there is no chance. An American captain, who on his return from Cindad Bolivar had been to a seance of spiritualists, on being asked his opinion, said that he fully believed in them, alleging that, when asked to say whom he wished to interview, he named his late first mate, who had died at Cindad Bolivar during the time the ship lay there. On the spirit answering in the usual manner, he enquired how he was getting on down below, to which the spirit replied, that he should feel greatly obliged if, when he came that way, he would bringVith him his (the mate's) great coat, adding that after Bolivar the climate was less than temperate, and, said the captain, I knew it must be Bill's ghost that was speaking, for no one, who had not been to both places, would ever have been able to dis tinguish between them. One of the arrangements at Cindad Bolivar, peculiar to this country and government, is to regulate the dis patch of the fortnightly steamer with the mails, to Trinidad so that it should arrive there the day after the Royal mail steamer leaves with the mail bags for the other Colonies, England and the Continent, and to make its return voyage to Cindad Bolivar from Trinidad, with letters, just one day before the mails can arrive from England, entailing on correspondents a loss of 12 or 14 days quite uselessly. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 37 There is popularly supposed to be a telegraphic com munication from Cindad Bolivar and some station in the Gulf of Para opposite Trinidad, but it is totally unre liable. When the wire is not broken, and the clerks happen to be in the offices, at both ends, at the same time (which seldom occurs), a message may pass through, but so terribly mangled and distorted that it is' better not to send it at all. First, the clerk sending it, wants to know what it means and all about it, if he does not understand, he won't send it. Then the clerk at the other end requires similar enlightenment, so that, unless you can be put on the wire and accompany it to its destination, there is small chance of its arriving there in any intelligible form. Then, if it reaches the other end and all is pronounced correct, the clerk will most probably write his version of it in Spanish and send it. across the bay by the first ship which may call there on its way to Trinidad : averyunfrequent occurrence. Your Trinidad correspondent, should it ever reach his hands, in despair of understanding its meaning, sends it on verbatim to (say) London, paying fourteen and three pence per word for what, on its arrival, generally turns out to be nonsense, and is almost always considerably forestalled by the usual mail service. I need scarcely say that this line does not command much custom. The telegraph line to Caracas, on the contrary, is fairly reliable and in general use. Facing Cindad Bolivar, on the other side of the river, is a small group of houses and plantations, called Sole- dad, and this is the point of departure by road to 38 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Caracas. A ferry-boat crosses the Orinoco every half hour, and daily takes over the mails. The passage is somewhat dangerous, owing to sudden iquails, which burst with scarcely any notice, and last but a few minutes. During my short stay, the ferry-boat was twice upset by them, and on one occasion, all the mails were lost and the crew very nearly drowned. They were not rescued until they had gone down the river more than a mile, clinging to the keel of the overturned boat. A curious example of the despotism used by- Government Officials occurred in connexion with the last upset. A German barque was loading up, and one of the officials ordered them to lower and send off a boat at once to the rescue. This, the Mate refused to do without orders from the Captain, who was on land some • where. Without more ado, a file, of soldiers was sent to arrest the Captain, who was taken, where he was dining with some friends, and, both he, the Mate, and all the crew together, with one or two people who happened to be on board the vessel at the time, were clapped into jail for the night. Next morning they were released and ordered to leave at once, and the ship had to sail in the morning, whether ready or not. No trial at all — it was simply an act of high-handed summary Justice on the part of the Governor, from which there was no appeal. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 39 CHAPTER III. 1ENEZUELA was discovered by Christopher Columbus during his third voyage in 1498. In 1499, Ojeda sailing round the coast and entering the Bay of Maraccaibo, found all the native villages constructed on foundations of piles, driven into the swampy ground, and named the country Venezuela, or little Venice, from the likeness it presented to the construction of Venice. This adventurer, who merely went in quest of plunder, did not form any permanent establishment there. The first colony (that of Coro) was founded in 1527, by Ampues. Soon afterwards the whole country was, by grant from the Spanish Court, made over to the Welsers, who were great bankers, and who undertook to form a company to colonize the country. Under the tyranny of this people the land languished till 1545, when the Emperor Charles, at last conscious of the dreadful oppression exercised by them, cancelled the grant, resumed possession of the country, and appointed Viceroys to govern it, and maintained this system until the colonists rose in rebellion, and in 1810, under General Miranda, declared the country an independent state. 40 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. The Viceroys, according to the custom of Spain with her colonies, looked upon their appointment merely as an opportunity to enrich themselves, and the most scandalous abuses were practised. Under the pretence of disloyalty the Indians were shot, enslaved, and destroyed whole sale. A pearl fishery of great value was discovered at the island of Margarita, but so excessive was the greed of the Spaniards, that by 1580 the pearl oyster was almost totally destroyed, and the fishery abandoned, while the bones of thousands of Indians who died there under the lash of their taskmasters, bore testimony to their utter heartlessness and, cruelty in the pursuit of wealth. During two centuries or more, the oyster beds have remained comparatively undisturbed, but in 1872 a Mr. Spence obtained a concession from the then government to enable him to prosecute the fishery. No great results however attended this attempt, and I believe it was subsequently abandoned. The fishery is still carried on in a very small way, and occasionally pearls of great beauty from Margarita can be obtained at Caracas the capital, but the insta bility of successive Governments and the insecurity of property, joined to the apathy and laziness of the inhabitants render the embarkation of foreign Capital into commercial undertakings exceedingly hazardous. This is sufficiently indicated by the fact that the usual rate of interest in Venezuela for loans secured on either land, houses, or other property, is from i^- to 2 per cent per month, or 18 to 24 per cent, per annum. VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 41 Juan Cornicho was the first of the Spanish ad venturers who attempted to pass up the Orinoco. This voyage was made in 1531 during the period when the country was under the control of the Welsers. The chief source of the Orinoco, as far as known, is in Guyana south west of the range of mountains known as the Sierra Parima. One part of the river known as the Cassaquiau runs south west to the Rio Negro and thus connects the Orinoco with the Amazon. The highest mountain on the Sierra Parima range is called Maraguaca, and rises 8000 feet above sea level. The chief rivers in Guyana besides the Orinoco, are the Guairari, Meta, Caroni, Cayuni, Apure, Yuruari, and Rio Negro. That part of Venezuela on the south bank of the Orinoco is known as the state of Guyana, a general name for all the country between the Orinoco and the Amazon, and derived from the Indian word Guainia, which was the Marsitan name for the Rio Negro. At the time of the first Spanish expedition this country was well populated by many tribes of Indians, who hospitably received and entertained them; kindnesses generally acknowledged by either slavery or torture, to induce them to discover to the greedy Spaniard the fabled El Dorado. After Cornicho several other Spaniards made attempts from various points to reach the reputed kingdom of Guyana with its fabulous capital, but all failed to reach Guyana itself. 42 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Orellano was employed by Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru, to search for Guyana, where it was supposed the family of the unfortunate Inca Mata Calpa had retired, and it was long believed that, accompanied by a vast number of Peruvians, they had retreated through the swamps on the banks of the Amazon and settled them selves in the country beyond. There is some foundation for belief in this migration, if the stories told by the Indians of the Orinoco to Raleigh can be trusted, as they speak of a race coming from the direction of the Amazon evidently more civilized than themselves, who were ^t that time driving them away from that part of their territory furthest from the Orinoco, and extending towards the Amazon. Be that as it may, Orellano did not succeed in finding them. After him, Pedro d' Orsua attempted to reach Guyana from Peru, but after passing down the Amazon he was murdered by one of his own soldiers named Aguerra near the mouth of that river. Aguerra, after the death of d' Orsua, assumed the command of the expedition, and embarking at the mouth of the Amazon, sailed for Margarita, which he plundered and burnt, putting the governor and garrison to the sword. From thence he pushed on to Cumdua, which he treated in a similar manner, and became one of the most notorious and dreaded pirates and plunderers on the Spanish Main. At last, being defeated at Neuvo Regno de Granada and in danger of falling into the hands of the authorities, he put his wife and children to death with his own hand, declaring, that as he could not have them honored and VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 43 respected, it was better for them to die, than live to be branded as the offspring of a pirate. He then put an end to his own existence, and relieved the country from one of the worst of its oppressors. Sir John Hawkins states that he heard during one of his voyages to those seas of the cruelties of this monster. Don Antonio Borreo, governor of Trinidad at the date of Raleigh's voyage to Guyana, had also made an attempt to penetrate the country from Columbia or Grenada with 1,000 men, but after months of privation and the loss of nearly all his force, he was compelled to abandon the enterprise. His son afterwards made another attempt up the Orinoco, but was enticed by the Indians into the country and signally defeated with the loss of 300 men. It was while Borreo was governor of Trinidad, that Sir Walter Raleigh started on his first voyage to Guyana in 1594. On his arrival at Trinidad, after passing through the Boca del Serpente he reached the bottom of the Gulf of Paria, and the city called Port of Spain ; here, being treacherously treated by the Spaniards, he took the town by storm, after defeating the governor Borreo. There is a general belief, both in Venezuela and Trinidad that Raleigh had him flogged in the open market place. Sir Walter himself says nothing of this, but merely adds to his account of the capture, that he treated him according to his desserts. Borreo tried his utmost to prevent the expedition from going up the Orinoco, pointing out the great danger attending the navigation, and the hostility of th e 44 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Indians on the banks, that they used poisoned arrows, against which there was no remedy, and that the climate was deadly to Europeans. Sir Walter, however, was not to be deterred, and after trying'in vain to find an opening sufficient for his ships to pass through, at length proceeded in pinnaces and barges, leaving the larger ships anchored at the mouth of the river. There is a considerable difference in the accounts given of Raleigh's proceedings. He appears to have pushed up the river as far as the spot where the Caroni joins it, and to have visited the falls in that river, which are some of the finest in the world. He also caused to be attacked and burnt, the Spanish town of St. Thome. This cannot be St. Thome d' Angostura, but probably refers to a town situated lower down the river than the Caroni falls. Most probably, where a fort still stands, called, indifferently, Raleigh's, or, the Pirates' Fort. There is no town theie now ; nothing but a rich desolate country. If this was not the place, then it was at the spot where the town of Las Tablas now stands,, but I incline to the former place. Report says that treasure was buried by him there, but, although long searched for, none has ever been discovered. It was here that his son met with his death during the storming of the town. This expedition was under the command of Captain Keymis, who killed himself shortly after its return to the ships. The expedition can be distinctly traced to have proceeded by land as far as Upata, and probably, as far as the spot where the valuable mines of El Callao are now producing fabulous quantities of gold. There VENEZUELA '. ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 45 seems to have been some intention to push on to where the rivers flowed into the Amazon. A very probable determination in the then unknown state of the course of the two great rivers. Raleigh mentions, again and again, that he saw gold embedded in white quartz, and it is singular that it is white quartz which produces most of the gold of El Callao, whereas in other mines, the gold bearing lodes are blue. At last however, the expedition seems to have regained the boats and then returned down the Orinoco, it being impossible to pass further up, owing to the rainy season and the heavy floods. Whether on his passage up or down, he certainly landed at Barrancas on the right bank, for cattle, and Barrancas remains to this day as a place where large quantities of cattle are shipped for export. From Raleigh's history we learn that there must have been many towns and a large population, at that time, on and about the delta of the Orinoco. Now all is silent and deserted. Raleigh is still spoken of in Venezuela as one of the English pirates, and when his death was resolved on by the Spanish Court, the Ambassador, Gondemar, who was ordered to complain to James the First, on his Audience with that Monarch, only said one word, crying Piratas, Piratas, Piratas, and abruptly left the presence. Raleigh's execution followed shortly after. 46 VENEZUELA : TS M.INERAL WEALTH. The few Indians still found there, belong to the tribe of Gouranis. Gouaraona being an Indian name, indi cating the mouth of the river. After Raleigh's expedition, although he repeatedly called the attention of the English Government to the great advantages to be gained by the occupation and colonization of Guyana, nothing appears to have been done until 1797, when Trinidad was taken by the British under Sir Ralph Abercromby and Admiral Harvey. During all this time, the Spaniards had gradually overrun the country, destroying or amalgamating with the Indians, and various missions were established . throughout Guayana by the Capuchins and Jesuits, who seem to have greatly encouraged agriculture and cattle breeding. In 1797 there were 38 of these missions in various parts, from the mouth of the Caroni, as far as the rivers Imataca and Cuyuni, surrounded generally by a popu lation of one or two thousand Indians, who were employed by the Spaniards, in the cultivation of cacao. coffee, maize, vanilla, tobacco, and other products, and also as peons at their cattle breeding establishments. Traces of this old civilization are numerous at the present day, although the plantations are ruined and overgrown, and the great cattle establishments destroyed. How this happened I shall presently point out. The present Capital of Venezuela is Caracas. This was founded 1565, by Diego Lozada. It is situated in the Valley of Arragon, 3,000 feet above the level of the sea VENEZUELA: ITS ' MINERAL WEALTH. 47 in latitude 10-30, and 67 west longitude. Five leagues from Caracas, on the coast is, La Guyra, the port of the capital. The bay is open to all winds, and in stormy weather the anchorage is very unsafe. Between it and the Capital rises a mountain 4,000 feet high, which has to be crossed. Formerly all the traffic between Caracas and La Guyra was by means of mules and oxen, and the rate of carriage over a very rough road was extortionate. In 1872 Gusman Blanco, the president, succeeded in getting sufficient capital subscribed- in Europe, and after one or two failures, a railway was at length constructed from La Guyra to Caracas, but owing to the moun tainous nature of the country, it had to take a very circuitous route, and is between 25 and 30 miles long. A minimum interest on the capital of 5 per cent, is guaranteed -by the Government, and I understand that the line is now fairly remunerative. There is a story told that at first the undertaking looked like proving a failure, owing to the old Road Carriers reducing their charges to a level with those of the new railway, and as in Venezuela, like Spain, there is a great dislike to innovations, it- seemed likely that on their amended tariff, they would retain the greater part of the goods traffic. The President, however, was quite equal to the occa sion. He called a meeting of all the principal carriers and addressed them, pointing out that he had, at great personal inconvenience, succeeded in inducing foreign powers to embark capital in an undertaking which was calculated to benefit largely the state of Venezuela. 48 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. That if their first venture proved unremunerative it was very unlikely that any more foreign capital, would come there, which would be a great blow to their prosperity ; that the Government had guaranteed a certain rate of interest, and if that was not earned by the road it must come out of the pockets of the Venezuelans. That the maintenance of the railway was for the good of the country, and consequently those who opposed it were enemies to their country, and that he, then and there, issued a decree that any person opposing the rail way by offering to carry goods at rates calculated to injure them, were injuring the Government, and if they persevered in that course they should be imprisoned forthwith. Within a week of this address all traffic on the old road had ceased, and with the exception of a solitary traveller now and then who prefers to ride his own mule, everything and everybody goes by rail. The penalty of death is now abolished in Venezuela, but at La Guyra there still exist some dungeons below the sea and swamp levels, where the worst criminals are ordered to be incarcerated, and I believe a week or two generally terminates their sufferings. They are, how ever, very seldom used. It is curious to note this tenderness towards murderers and felons in a people who, during their revolutionary war, have carried sanguinary ferocity to its highest pitch. Wholesale shooting of political enemies being the rule, rather than the exception, and instances are VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 49 frequent, of large bodies of prisoners being shot down after surrender. The mixture of Spanish and Indian blood appears to produce a naturally ferocious breed, holding the vices of both races and the virtues of neither ; nor does the introduction of German or Corsican blood seem to improve matters much. A peculiar race called Zamboes, a combination of the imported African slaves with some of the original Carib Indians, has produced a breed, which, even in Venezuela, is looked on as singularly ferocious, and out of ten crimes committed, at least eight are attributed, and with reason, to Zamboes. During the wars, they have proved the most cruel and bloodthirsty of all troops, neither taking nor giving quarter, and have fairly outrivalled, in that respect, the Llaneros, or men of the plains. The constant changes of presidents, and, consequently, the very unsettled state of the country and insecurity of property, have been the great drawbacks to the prosperity of Venezuela. The present president, General Gusman Blanco, seems to have had a longer lease of power, and to have got a firmer hold on the people, than any of their former governors. By an article in the constitu tion, the president is only elected for two years, and the same person cannot hold two consecutive terms of office, therefore between General Blanco's presidentships there have been a succession of warming pans as it were, he returning to power as soon as the law permitted, and the retiring presidents falling back into their native obscurity, but each one while in power did all he could to fill his own pockets and those of the needy set of 50 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. adventurers who surrounded him. Nor has General Blanco, with all his power, and, I believe, a sincere desire to benefit his country, been able to check this. He is himself a very wealthy man, has great self-reliance, and a firm belief in the future of his country, but the system is beyond his power to overthrow. When Bolivar freed Venezuela he gave (as the only reward possible) the country among those who had freed it. That is, the generals all applied for something, — grants of land, special powers to trade, &c, &c, and this precedent has been followed up in all succeeding wars and revolutions, so that now there is scarcely any thing in Venezuela that is not the subject of a concession or monopoly. If you are a breeder of cattle, you find on trying to ship them, that one general has the sole right to export cattle out of Venezuela, so that you will have to pay him four dollars a head for every one you ship. If you seek to avoid this by killing or selling in the country another [general turns up, who has the sole right to slaughter cattle in the country, and he levies five dollars a head for leave to kill your own beasts. One general (they are all generals) has the sole right to import one article, another the sole right to export another. None of these worthies have really anything to. export or import, but they sell these privileges to German houses in trade, who, even after paying very large sums to them, manage to" make an enormous profit, but the trade of the country is crushed and ruined! Foreign sugars and salt are prohibited, to protect ndustries monopolised by certain favored individuals. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 51 Everything, in fact, is done by concession, and to obtain these advantages over trade rivals, very large sums are constantly paid to the various ministers, through whose influence such can be obtained. I will mention one instance. Tonquin beans are largely exported from Venezuela. The bean grows wild in certain districts, and used to be collected by the natives, and brought down to the various merchants in Cindad Bolivar, who bought them up and shipped them to America, making a considerable profit, and a large general trade was done in the article, which gave employment to a great number of people. However, one General, scenting plunder, applied for, and got, a concession, appointing, him as the sole person authorized to gather, sell, or export Tonquin. beans. The merchants of Cindad Bolivar, seeing a very con siderable trade slipping from their grasp, met and pre sented a respectful petition to the then President, asking him to abolish this concession, on the ground that it was a great injury to trade. What was the answer ? The Governor of Bolivar ¦called a meeting of the merchants who had signed the memorial, which they all attended, except one wary old fox, who suddenly became unwell, and went down to Trinidad for his health. On reaching the Government house, they were informed that the President had read their memorial, that he considered it as inimical to the Government, and that he, the Governor, was directed to give them a fortnight's confinement in prison, to 52 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. reconsider the matter ; and imprisoned they were accordingly. No further memorials reached the Presi dent from them, and now one German house in Bolivar, has, by paying a large sum yearly to the concession holder, obtained the privilege of collecting and exporting all Tonquin beans. The people, who collect them, have to pay for leave to do so, they must bring them to this' house, who buys at their own price, and -fearing no com petition, sells or holds back, as the foreign markets suit them. The average amount of duties, paid by merchants on their imports, is 45 per cent. According to law,. certain articles are free of duty, but against the clause a rider is attached " by consent of the Minister," and this consent is never obtained without a considerable bribe. Trinidad occupies, towards Venezuela, something like the position of Great Britain towards the continent of Europe, in one respect ; it is a refuge for all disaffected, Venezuelans ; here conspiracies are hatched, and expe ditions fitted out, and here the discomfited parties return after failure, sure of a secure, shelter. Venezuelan Generals abound in Port of Spain, the capital, and most of these worthies, are not above accepting a dollar or a dinner from any one who will offer it. Trinidad is, therefore, not looked upon favorably by the Venezuelan Government, and an extra duty of 30 % is levied on every article coming therefrom, or on the cargo of any ship clearing from there. Again, Cindad Bolivar, the commercial capital and largest town in Guyana is made the only port of entry. The principal import trade now of Guyana is for the VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 53 supply of the mining district, and the direct route to the mines, and the interior, starts, not from Cindad Bolivar, but from Las Tablas (100 miles nearer the mouth of the Orinoco) ; but Las Tablas must be passed ; the ship must unload, and land all her goods at Cindad Bolivar and pay duties on all, and then re-ship them and take them back to Las Tablas, re-land them there, and again pass them through the Las Tablas Custom House, before they can be forwarded inland. Is it any wonder, then, that goods costing originally ten pounds fetch from one to two hundred at the mines. All house dues, all taxes, all rents to Government, the stamps on all papers (and every piece of paper on which any transaction is written must carry a stamp, the lowest of which is a franc, and each page or sheet must be similarly stamped, otherwise the whole transaction is illegal), must be paid in gold, and all the gold so paid is sent direct to Caracas. 54 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER IV. | HERE are no banks in Venezuela, so all money in payment of taxes, mine dues, &c, is remitted in specie to Caracas, and the singular spectacle is presented of a province comprising one half of the republic periodically drained of its gold, while foreign Companies have to send out gold to pay their workmen, and so replace the continuous drain. Up to the present time no duty has been levied on the importion of specie, but no one knows what the Govern ment may do. Banks, with powers to coin and issue money, have been started, but it was found that the money issued by them was so adulterated that no one would take it. Indeed there is one case of an individual having obtained a concession to coin and issue spurious money, or at least in so adulterated a condition as to be practically valueless. This clever person proceeded to issue coins forthwith, which were accepted unsuspectingly by every one, until the province was fully supplied, but this coin, when paid into the Government coffers for taxes, fines, dues, &c, and sent to Caracas, was refused, and returned to the persons who had tendered it, and when complaints were made, orders came down to arrest the issuer as a forger. He was duly seized and sent on to Caracas, but, on arrival there, it appeared that he had some other concession to carry out, for VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 55 which, periodical visits to Trinidad were necessary, and, in compliance with this, he was permitted to go there. It is needless to say that once out of the country, he did not return. Similar instances of fraud, oppression, and injustice might be quoted by the hundred, in all which, the officials participate largely. Meanwhile discontent is rife all through Guyana, the state is being beggared, the old families ruined. Men are sent from Caracas to fill all posts, and are constantly being changed, very inadequate pay is given, and it is notorious that all officials accept bribes, to the perversion of justice. A tax is levied on every inhabitant for the maintenance of the roads, but not one penny is ever spent on them. All the money is sent up to Caracas, and the only attention the so-called roads ever get, is the labour of any prisoners that may be on hand in jail, and this only round the towns. Every one in Guyana was looking forward to General Gusman's re-accession to office and return to Venezuela as a time when many of these crying evils would be remedied. If he fails to satisfy them I fancy another revolution is imminent, and . I should not be at all surprised to see Guyana constitute itself into a separate republic, divided from Venezuela by the Orinoco. As to the mining district that lies within the water shed of the Essequibo, I have traced the course of its affluents, and can affirm positively, that by treaty all the water-shed of the Essequibo belongs to England. The intervention of such a great belt of virgin forest, 56 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. and the uncertainty of what the land was worth prevented us at the time from urging our claims with any persistency ; but the gold fever has at last spread to Demerara. Overseers from various estates are proceed ing with large bodies of labourers to prospect in this virgin forest, and to push forward towards the present mining district. All the hills abound in gold, and mining discoveries of great value will be made. The old Dutch navigators passed up the Essequibo and its affluents, to within 60 miles of El Callao, and this waterway can again be opened out. Everything could pass up this channel, thus avoiding the great round by Bolivar, as well as the vexatious delays and exorbitant exactions of its Custom House. The present population of the mines is principally composed of English subjects, and all would 'hail gladly, and support energetically, a union with British Guyana, or an independant state with free trade. If this country is opened up as Australia was, and similarly populated with an English speaking race, the Government will be forced ;to interfere for the protection of its [own subjects. Nor will the trickery and falseness displayed by the Venezuelan Government towards the English bondholders be forgotten. They have no claim whatever to our forbearance. The miners have already on one occasion been brought into contact with the executive (see Consul Reddan's report), and, but for the incapacity and cowardice of their leader, who first provoked the out break, they could successfully have resisted all interference. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 57 With a road open from Demerara, whence supplies and stores could be brought, Guyana, or for that matter the mining district only, could defy all the forces the Government of Venezuela could bring against them. There is only one gun-boat to guard the Orinoco, and that is so shaky that if the one gun on it was fired the whole lot would go to the bottom. All the countless herds of cattle, horses, and asses, so eloquently described by writers of forty years ago have disappeared from the plains. In a ride of 250 miles over them, I never saw two horses, or asses together, or more than five or six head of cattle. It was on these that the combatants in former wars relied, to feed and convey their armies, but they are gone, and on these vast plains without'a population, or any cultivation, no large body of men could be moved without the most complete equipment of stores, provisions, baggage, and ammuni tion beasts, which are not obtainable now. There are navigable rivers to cross, and no bridges. It is difficult enough now for the simple traveller, in the face of opposition it would be almost impossible. Guns cannot be moved without horses, and even of light guns, such as would be required in that country, the Government have none, and no money to buy any. Even the Custom House revenues Jare mortgaged to some 80 °/0 of their returns, and all other taxes are nearly in the same position. The mining code of Venezuela signed at Caracas on May 21st, 1885, by Joaquim Crespo, as President, and the 58 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Ministers, is full of pitfalls. It sets out that no mine can be worked unless an act of concession has been issued by the Federal Government, after all formalities pre scribed by the act have been complied with. No concession can be for more than 99 years, or less than 50, but holders will have a preferential claim for renewal. The form of grant is as follows : "The President of the Republic. Whereas it appears that (M. or N.) has petitioned the Government for the concession of Mines, of the dimensions determined by Art. 4 of the Law, the boundaries thereof being according to the respective plan as follows ; and considering that the requisite explorations, measurements, demarkation, and other corresponding acts have been performed, so far as to have obtained a grant, declares, with the affirma tion vote of the Federal Council, in favour of (M. or N.) his heirs and assigns, the concession of Mines in the State (or Territory -¦ District ) to which the documents already examined and marked No. refer. The present title deed will be registered at the registry of the place where the Mines granted are situated, and it entitles the grantee and his heirs to make use, and have the enjoyment, of said Mines for a term of years, while he complies with the conditions prescribed in Articles 28, 29, 35, and 37 of the already mentioned decree." Art. 26 says : The deed of concession shall be regis tered in the Registry of the place where the Mine or Mines are situated. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 59 Art. 28 says : The Grantee must begin the working of the Mines within two years from date of concession. Art. 29 : Should the term expire before working has begun the title shall be forfeited. Art. 35 : From the date on which a concession of Mines is issued, the holder shall pay annually a further sum of 750 francs for each five stamp mill employed, and these taxes shall be paid in cash each quarter in advance, and the omission to pay for two consecutive quarters renders the grant void by Art. 39. All Mining documents must be in triplicate, one to be at the Ministry of Progress, one at the Registry where the title is registered, and the third to be placed with original title in the hands of the Grantee, and copies of all such documents can always be obtained at the Registry. If the titles are transferred, the Federal Executive must be informed thereof, and the purchaser shall pay four francs for each mina of 2^- acres, that is so transferred. All fractions to be counted as full minas. As soon as the Grantees have opened the paths round their grant according to law they must give notice to the Inspector of Mines, who is entitled to a fee of one franc per mina for examining same, to be paid by the grantee. The boundaries must be cleared once every year, and the Grantees who fail shall pay a fine of 500 francs. (For Full Mining Laws, see Appendix B.) It will be seen by the foregoing that the so-called Code of Mines is merely an act to get as much as possible, at 60 VENEZCJELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. every opportunity, out of the holders of the Mines, quite regardless of the difference of value. El Callao, with an income of thousands per month, pays the same as Callao Bis, with no income at all. The evil results of this mode of legislation have become so apparent that the Minister of War made a visit to, and inspection of the mining district in Guyana# (For his Report, see Appendix A .) But the whole thing was a farce, enacted to enable Consuls and others to report to their various Govern ments. Nothing has been done, and the report, after having answered its purpose, is quietly shelved. Meantime, the mining community, impoverished by exactions, and starved by the enormous Customs dues levied on supplies, and the total neglect of all sanitary measures, or even the most necessary repairs of the public roads, by the Government, and finding themselves continually mulcted in fines for every petty offence, to enable the Government officials to live, (their salaries being almost nominal, and their very existence depending on fees and fines, which they pocket) are becoming daily more discontented, and there is a great opportunity for the new President, General Gusman Blanco to gain the affections of his people, and render his' name honored and his Government respected, by an entire revisal and correction of the fraud and injustice now rampant in Guyana. VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 61 One of the principal contributories to the Essequibo is the Cuyuni. This rises in Guyana, the greater part of the country is drained by it and its affluent the Masarrony. It is claimed by England as it terminates in the Essequibo. Its course is 620 miles, of which more than 400 are navigable. t? ¦62 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER V. HE mode of treatment adopted by Spain to wards her colonies in South America, must, sooner or later, have driven them into rebellion and separation. At first, groups of Spanish adventurers overran the country, then the leader obtained a patent from Spain, naming him Governor or Viceroy ; he divided the country among his followers, who all did their level best to destroy the native population, by the greatest oppression and cruelty. These original conquerors settled in the country, and gradually mixed with the remaining Indians, in many instances marrying the daughters of Indian Chiefs, and so setting up some original claim to the land. Fresh bands of adventurers succeeded these, and pursued the same course, till at last there were, and still are, numerous old families, bearing the greatest of old Spanish names, with almost pure Indian blood in their veins. In the course of time, the great Spanish families, from whom these adventurers came, were superseded in power by others, and new Viceroys, Governors, and State Officials were appointed, who ousted the old ones. These, becoming then settlers in the country, were gradually treated by the latest comers, exactly like any VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 63 other natives. This policy at last culminated in the appointment, for one, two or three years, of needy aristocrats to all great governmental posts, who during the term of their administration, only endeavoured to enrich themselves, regardless of the oppression exercised over their subjects, whether Spanish, Indian or half- breeds. The colonies were, in fact, the goose that laid for Spain golden eggs, but when at last she wanted two eggs in one day, then the goose struck work, and resolved in future to lay eggs for herself. Viceroys of all sorts were sent out, from Pizarro downwards, to South America, some good, some bad, some severe, others liberal, but although the men often changed, the system never did. During all this time, great settlements or missions as they were called, were formed by different orders of the Roman Gatholic Priesthood, and it seems on the whole, that the Indians had less to complain of (except in respect of heresy), under these, than under any other masters. Consequently the missions flourished greatly. Towns sprang up around them, and the population, relying on the protection of the Reverend Fathers, with whom the Government seldom liked to interfere, devoted itself to agriculture, and the land blossomed forth with its fruits. Cattle, horses and mules, brought originally by the Spaniards, increased prodigiously, and roamed over the open savannah in vast herds, while the Indians brought their crops of coffee, cocoa, vanilla, tobacco and sugar 64 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. to the Holy Fathers, who, purchasing them at their own price, realized large profits by their shipment to Europe< In 1797 the first attempt at disunion from Spain was made by three state prisoners who had been condemned for life to the prisons of La Guyra. This was termed the Conspiracy of La Guyra. The two prime movers, on its discovery by the Government, made their escape, these were Grail and Espana; but of the remainder who had joined them seven were executed, some were sent to the galleys, others imprisoned, and some sent to Spain to be disposed of at the discretion of the King. Again, General Miranda, on the 2nd of August, 1806, landed at Coro with about 500 men, and captured the City, but owing to the smallness- of his force was eventually compelled to abandon his enterprise and return to Trinidad. Owing to the dissensions in Spain, consequent on its occupation by the French, frequent disputes arose between the Creoles and their Viceroys, and the spirit of discontent growing gradually stronger, through the want of protection afforded to the Colonies against the intolerable oppressions they were labouring under, the inhabitants of Caracas, perceiving that the Captain General Emparan was determined to enforce implicit obedience to all orders coming from Spain, appointed Deputies, who, on the 19th April, 1810, assumed the reins of Government. They decreed that the tribute paid by Indians and the slave trade should be abolished, and freedom of commerce established. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 65 I would note here, that previous to the year 1800 the Spaniards had, owing to the scarcity of Indian labor through their cruelty, imported more than 20,000 Africans into Venezuela. General Miranda, now determined to make another effort for the independence of his country, reached Caracas in the early part of 1811 ; on the 5th July in the same year Venezuela was declared independent, and on the 23rd December published the New Constitution.- On the 26th of March, 1812 a dreadful earthquake laid nearly every town in ruins ; 20,000 people perished, producing much dismay and terror. The priests pro nounced it a judgment upon them for the revolution, and, owing to the superstitious belief of the people, the Government fell into discredit. Miranda was appointed dictator, but could offer little resistance to Monteverde, who commanded the Spanish Imperial forces. At length a convention was concluded, and Miranda being taken prisoner, was thrown into the prison of La Guyra, but, being released at the inter cession of some British. officers, he was sent to Cadiz, where he died in prison. The seizure and imprisonment of Miranda was 'effected by Simon Bolivar, afterwards the Liberator of Venezuela, who suspected him of treachery, but there are no proofs. All Venezuela again came under the power of the Spaniards, whose deeds of ferocity and plunder exceeded all their former efforts. The almost 66 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. incredible cruelties of Monteverde at length roused the inhabitants to resistance, and Don Marino raised the standard of revolt, capturing Maturin. Bolivar shortly afterwards joined him with 2,000 men, the whole country rose and joined Bolivar, who advanced rapidly on Caracas. Now began the war to the death. The date of the Manifesto is June 8th, 1813. In 1815, Morillo arrived from Spain with 12,000 Spanish troops, and Bolivar, overwhelmed, retired to Jamaica, while Morillo overran the whole country, burning, shooting and tortur ing in true Spanish fashion. In 1816, a revolt again broke out, in the Island of Margarita. On the nth April, 181 7, Pear, a mulatto who was afterwards shot for treason, defeated the Spaniards near Angostura. Paez also gained a battle near San Fernando. Angostura, after being blocaded for 3 months sur rendered on 17th July in the same year. On the 15th February, 1819, the Congress of Vene zuela was installed. The first President of the Congress was appointed ; Bolivar was declared President of the Republic. In November, 1820, Morillo returned to Spain, leaving General La Torre in command. Before leaving the country, when accused of his repeated acts of cruelty, he replied " If I had completely carried out the orders and instructions received from the Govern ment of Spain, this country would be an uninhabited desert." On 24th June, 1 821, La Torre was totally defeated by VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 67 Bolivar at Carabobo, with a loss of 6,000 men. The victory was principally due to the intrepedity and firmness displayed by the English and Irish volunteer contingent, and this battle virtually ended the war. Bolivar had 6,000 men, and the Spaniard 9,000 in this action. On August 20th, i82i,a Republican Constitution was drawn up and adopted. During this War of Independence, nearly a quarter of a million lives were sacrificed, and the country, once well populated, was left almost a desert, nor has it ever recovered its former prosperity. After much internal dissension, Paez became Presi dent of Venezuela. The Government is central, the legislative body being invested with the power of making laws on all subjects. Each province sends two members to the Senate, which consists of 26, and the House of Representatives of 42. There is an election every two years. Executive power is vested in the President, who is chosen for two years. The principal desideratum for Venezuelan prosperity seems to be an active, industrious and enterprising population, and I fear this will never be found among the Spaniards, or their descendants, who are lazy, proud and careless. On the occasion of the meeting of a general committee, to declare the Constitution, in 1830, they were addressed by Bolivar, in a speech, which must for ever remain the admiration of all true patriots. The illustrious leader 68 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. said, "I wish that all Europe and America knew the horror I feel at irresponsible power, under whatever name it is exercised. I am taunted with aspiring to tyranny. Set me, I beseech you, beyond the reach of that censure. If you persist in electing me, the State is ruined ; give to another the Presidency, which I now respectfully abdicate." He then took leave of public life, retiring to Carthagena, where broken down in mind and body, he died in December of the same year. Since that time various chiefs, contending with each other for supremacy, have kept up a succession of intestine wars, which have continually agitated and torn to pieces the whole country, almost depopulating some parts of it. Ruler succeeded ruler, with lightning rapidity, and with very few exceptions, each one was worse than his pre decessor. All holdings of property were insecure, and it is doubtful whether the lower classes were not better off under Spanish cruelty, than they are under the monstrous exactions they suffer under the name of taxation, and the total want of justice, owing to the venality of the judges. The commerce of Venezuela declined greatly during the War of Independence, the convulsions of society having greatly interfered with cultivation. But at first,, as society became more settled, it began to revive. How a state, gifted with one of the best codes of law in existence could, through the utter depravity, greed and cruelty of successive chiefs, have fallen into its present state, it is not within the scope of the present work to say. Enough, that from its liberation to the present VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 69 time, every successive President seems to have been employed, during his short lease of power, in trying to enrich himself and his adherents, without the least con sideration for his unfortunate country. On paper all the laws are perfect, and the constitution all that could be desired, but experience has shown, that the influence of the executive power is. able to subdue and absorb every other power, legislative or judicial. One law which the Congress passed viz : — that of division of the National property among the defenders of the country, as the only way of rewarding their heroic services, has become a precedent of very bad import. At first, those who had risen, and driven out the Spaniards, divided the land among themselves, but as successive Generals strove for and gained the Presidency, they again forfeited the property of the opposing party, and divided their possessions among their own followers, and this plan of proceeding being found the easiest way of satisfying the greed of their adherents, it was resorted to without scruple. Then another party rose to power, and during their short holding, the same process was again resorted to ; a venal and subservant House of Representatives always agreeing with the Dictator for the time being, so that at last successive holders, all having titles of one sort or another, had rival claims to every bit of property in the country. These rival claims rendered the title to all property insecure, what was one man's to sell to-day, became to-morrow under another President, somebody else's, and the innocent purchaser was plunged into interminable law suits, and could only 70 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. hold possession as long as his purse held out, the judges being as venal as the assembly. Paez, Vargas, Paez. Zea, Soublette, Paez, Gil, Monagas, Falcon, Monagas, Polidor, Pulgar, Blanco, Linares, Blanco, Crespo, and again Blanco, have succeeded each other with marvellous rapidity, the principal occupation of the deposed President, being to conspire against his successor. Some of them succeeded to power more than once, but Don Gusman Blanco alone, since Bolivar, seems to have got a firm hold of the Government, and although by the letter of the Constitution, he can only hold power for two years at a time, and cannot possibly hold two terms consecutively, yet the intervening Presidents were little more than dummies to keep his seat warm, General Pulgar, indeed, has shown decided hostility, and on more than one occasion, has broken out into armed rebellion, but hitherto his attempts have been put down, either by force or by negociation, and at present Don Gusman Blanco is supreme. He is reported to be immensely wealthy, and is a man of great capacity and intelligence. Since his election in March last, he has not returned to Venezuela: One of his daughters was recently married to the Duke de Morny, in Paris. Don Gusman's presence in Venezuela is anxiously looked for. The Venezuelan loan, contracted in Europe in 1864, amounting to twelve millions, secured on the Customs receipts, and for the express purpose of road making, and developing the agricultural resources of the country, VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 71 is a very sore subject to British investors. Certain it is that no. part of it was applied as proposed, and indeed the greater part of what reached the country, after being plundered by the original wire pullers, was openly and shamelessly divided among the chiefs of the party then in power, under various pretexts. Nor have the Customs receipts, hypothicated for the payment of divi dends, ever been so applied. Negociations with such a Government are utterly useless. Diplomacy is powerless with men, who," while stickling for the point of honor, lie without scruple, and cheat, whenever it serves their purpose. Without arms, or men to use them, all their defences in ruins, and relying solely on the forbearance of their victims, they talk and swagger with the insolence of a first-class power, and if justice is ever to be obtained for their victims, it will only be obtained by an ultimatum, and the presence of a gunboat at La Guyra, or on the Orinoco. Then, all that is required will be granted without a murmur, and so long as a force is kept there, payments will be regularly made, promises to any extent given, and with the withdrawal of material pressure, they will be immediately broken as before. A permanent British resident at Caracas, supported by a sufficient naval force, as required, is the only way to ensure the payment of the bondholders. At present they are openly laughed at, and their claims derided, and those that now, after the long experience they have had of South American duplicity, enter into any further negociations, thinking to save any 72 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. of their property by further advances, deserve to lose every shilling. Let us hope that a firm Government in England will at least protect the lives and property of the numerous Englishmen, now employed in the mines and elsewhere, and that the unfair and unjust exactions of the Venezuelan Government will be firmly resisted. The great influx of English subjects from Jamaica, and the other islands, and now, the persistent pressing forward of prospectors, in large numbers from Demerara will in time compel the English Government to take active steps to protect 'their own subjects, and to enforce their treaty rights. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 73 CHAPTER VI. ENEZUELA is bounded on the North by the Carribean Sea, and on this sea board is situated the capital Caracas, with its port La Guyra. It is bounded on the West by New Grenada, on the South by Brazil, and on the East by Brazil, English Guyana, and the Atlantic. The whole area of the Republic is about 440,000 square miles, or more than twice the size of France. What the population now is, it is impossible to say, in 1875 ^ was about 2,000,000. One half of the Republic is comprised in the State of Guyana, which by a recent edict is now incorporated in some way with Caracas, so as to render legal the absorption of the taxes &c, collected and sent there. This State extends 650 miles North and South, and 700 East and West, and is bounded on the South by Brazil, North by the river Apure and the Orinoco, on the West by Columbia, and by British Guyana and the Atlantic on the East. It has a population of about 87,000, and a coast line of more than 300 miles ; the Delta of the Orinoco, which belongs to this State, has an area of 13,000 square miles, through which the river runs 74 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. by 36 different channels. The whole area of the State is about 260,000 square miles. Guyana is separated from the rest of the Republic by the great river Orinoco. The head waters of this river have never yet been reached, though several parties have attempted to get there. The vast forests and plains in which it rises are peopled by Indians, never yet sub dued, and who will permit no white man or stranger to intrude on their territory. With the tribes occupying this part of the country, remains the secret of the Worari poison, with it they smear arrows as well as their other warlike implements, and a scratch means death without remedy. These tribes have a habit of serving a sort of notice on any traveller, trying to pene trate their country. If he retires on receipt of it, all is well, and he is not molested by them. If, after receiv ing it, he perseveres and tries to go forward, an im placable and unseen enemy dogs his every step, by day and by night he is attacked. From every tree, from every bush, a poisoned arrow flies, till at last worn out, and exhausted by this continual strife, he and his party fall a prey to their ferocious enemies. During the latter part of our passage, that is from Barbadoes to Trinidad, we were accompanied by two French gentlemen who had been sent out by their Government to penetrate these wilds, and to collect plants, skins, and birds of rare or unknown kinds. One of them had been already employed on a similar expedition, in which his leader was killed by the Indians, VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 75 and he had himself escaped by a miracle, with some half dozen poisoned arrows sticking in his clothes. The cause, as I understood, was some outrage, offered by the chief of the expedition to the Indians. One account was, that he tried to take one of their women ; another, that he had violated one of .their graves, in an attempt to procure and carry away some skulls. Whichever is true, no doubt he paid the penalty with his life. It is, I regret to say, a too frequent custom' with all these explorers, of whatever nationality, to pay too little regard to the customs and feelings of the savages they come in contact with, and most of those who have perished in these undertakings, have fallen through an ostentatious and unnecessary disregard to the prejudices of the natives. Our French explorers were full of enthusiasm, they accompanied us up the Orinoco to Cindad Bolivar, where I saw them in full array. Hel mets, puggarees, shirts, revolvers, bowie knives and all. They told me that they had hired a boat, were then occupied in putting stores on board, and would start up the river on the following Tuesday. Leaving Bolivar on the Monday, we said farewell, and often spoke of them during our journey to the mines, wondering where they were, and what probability there was of their return. However, when we returned to Cindad Bolivar, after a month's absence, the first persons we recognised, were our French friends still in war paint, still busy storing their boat, and still going to start on the follow ing Tuesday. When we finally left Bolivar for England,. we left them there, hopeful as ever, of an early start, but 76 VENEZDELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. as the river had begun to rise rapidly, rendering an upward journey by canoe, almost impossible for some months, it is very probable that they will be found at Bolivar for some time to come. South of the river Meta, begins the woody region,' which extends to the boundary of Brazil, and further, and is the Northern portion of that immense tract of forest land, which covers South America on both sides of the equator. This is the region, where the Peruvians, after their subjugation by Pizarro, are supposed to have penetrated into, after crossing the Amazon. Until the discovery and working of the gold mines, this part of Guyana was little known, and less liked. The forests are interspersed with grassy tracts of moderate extent, of which the surfaces are not flat, but rise and fall in un dulating waves, rising sometimes to the dignity of hills. The vigorous growth of the trees, and their great variety, indicates an extraordinary fertility. In the district of Upata, which forms part of this great belt, the fertility of the land is said to be inferior to no part of South America, while the climate is deliciously temperate, at a height of 1400 feet above the level of the sea. The traveller through this delight ful region is perpetually meeting new beauties each time he passes through a belt of forest, where he is sheltered by overhanging trees, full of color, and- regaled with a hundred various perfumes of flowers, . he emerges on open tracts of moderate extent, not bare, but diversified by clumps of trees dotted about, while the rolling ground reminds him of the most beautiful parts of VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 77 English country scenery. Park, as it were, succeeds park, till he is at last fairly puzzled where to select to encamp, among so much contending and rival loveliness, and here, at a nominal rent, the cattle breeder may come and establish himself, with the certainty of realis ing 30 per cent, per annum on his outlay, and the possibility of very much more. Always on horseback, in a most lovely climate, and with pure air and clear blue skies, is it a wonder if I felt tempted to leave civilization, and remain in such a spot for ever. All through this upland country emigrants would do well. The mistake of former Emigration Companies was the endeavour to locate Europeans on the lowlands and swamps of the Delta of the Orinoco, where the heat is intense, and the fevers and agues deadly to the white man, while inland, in the hill country of Guyana, if large estates are not to be acquired, the simplest labour, under a moderate climate, will give a man all and more than he requires, and render him very speedily independent. The land is there rich, abundant, and waiting only the arrival of industrious occupants. The roads throughout Guyana are in a very bad con dition, owing to the sums levied for their repair, being remitted to Caracas, while nothing is done in the way of labour to repair them. They are traversed principally by donkies, mules, and heavy waggons drawn each by the ten or twelve oxen. The system adopted by the waggoners at present is, if the road appears unpassable at any point, to cut a new track round the bad part and take his own waggon through, but on no account to 78 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. put any work in which might assist the waggoner who follows, who in his turn has to get through as best he can. Every waggon carries an extra wheel, as it is calculated that at least one wheel will be utterly broken up during each journey ; the waggoner is able generally to do repairs, and frequently a waggon will arrive with all its remaining wheels bound up in splints, like a man with broken limbs ; often more than one wheel is quite destroyed, and then the waggon, and cattle, and goods, all remain by the road side, till the owner can bring up new wheels, sometimes from a distance of forty or fifty miles. Again, through the frequent occurrence of these bad places, the strain on the oxen is very great, and the loss is not less than 10 per cent, from accidents ; besides all this, the time occupied by these cuttings, and mend ings, prolongs the journey, and the 200 miles , is seldom got over in less than a month, under the most favourable circumstances, while in the rainy season, four months is no uncommon time to occupy with the journey. The inconvenience of this through mode of transit has been so keenly felt that more than one company has been formed to construct a railway from the Orinoco to Guacipati, the capital of the province,'and situated near the mines, to which almost all the traffic passes. Engineers have reported on the absence of difficulties ; surveyors have been over the ground and made plans ; contractors have managed to smuggle in shiploads of stores of all sorts, free of duty, under the pretence, that they were required for the railway. Indeed, I believe, a whole shipload of dynamite was landed, under that VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 7g pretence, but not a yard of land has been levelled, not a pick, or a barrow, or a navvy has ever arrived ; neither a rail or sleeper has ever been seen, and the present company, a French one, which has at present the con cession, and is reported to have raised ^"750,000 capital, is represented by a very gentlemanly Frenchman, who, with his servant and a double-barrelled gun, is staying at Las Tablas. I presume he is something like a man in possession, to prevent others from doing anything. It is quite evident, however, to any one who has travelled through the country, that a railway would not for many years be a paying concern. The amount of traffic is too small, and the distances between the villages too great. Now, if instead of spending a million of money in laying down a non-paying railway, a company was to undertake to keep the present road in order, and obtain a concession to place a certain number of tolls on it, the matter might be made a very profitable one. There are few difficulties to contend with ; timber is plentiful all along the route, and with half a dozen of the gullies bridged by the tressel system, and a few of the bad spots levelled, waggons could pass in one half of the time at present occupied, and without damage by death to the oxen, or breakage to their carriages. At present, it costs from threepence to sevenpence per pound for every atom sent up from the river to Guaci pati ; with a good road, a saving of at least one half would be effected. Half a dozen gates or bars on the 80 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. roat, at proper spots, would amply suffice to produce a sufficient sum to keep up the roads and yield a handsome dividend. Along a good road, settlers would rapidly come, and traffic would naturally increase. At present it is all through traffic ; there is little or none from one village to another ; all is from the great s,tores at Bolivar, to their auxiliary stores at Upata, Guacipati and El Callao, and there is little or no return traffic, but with a settled and cultivated country, considerable quantities of pro duce could be sent back, thereby enabling carriers to secure a freight both ways. No doubt, if the country ever becomes again populous, as formerly, a railway will supersede the road, but, as I before said, many years must elapse, before this can be made a paying concern. At present, it is merely a vehicle for extracting money out of European pockets, to be squandered among pro moters, surveyors, engineers, contractors, and above, and beyond all, among the members of a venal Govern ment, willing to sell any concession, so long as they get a good pull out of the plunder. Let but Guyana shake herself free from the iron despotism, that now oppresses her, and trust to her own resources. As an independent State, she has access to the sea by one of the finest waterways in the world, the river Orinoco. Navigable almost the whole length of her frontier. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 8l In the delta of that river, is the finest sugar, cotton and tobacco land in the world. Inland are savannahs that might swarm with cattle and horses. At the base of the hills, maize, corn, plantains, cacao, coffee, and fruits of all kinds are grown in profusion, while the hills produce the finest and hardest woods known, besides being full of minerals, and on her southern boundary, the river Essequibo affords her another water way to the ocean. The impenetrable forests of Brazil are behind her in case of need, and she has unusual facilities for trade with Europe, and the United States, either direct or through Trinidad and Demerara. Her population is relatively to the rest of Venezuela; a hardy and indus trious one. Why then, should she submit to the gross injustice and oppression under which she now labours. It has been the policy of the Government of Demerara always to discourage any mining enterprises, the owners of the sugar estates fearing, and with reason, that if once gold fever broke out, the exodus to the mining districts would greatly diminish the supply of labour at command and increase wages proportionately, which, at the present low price of sugar, means absolute ruin to them, and the discontinuance of the great sugar industry on which Demerara has hitherto chiefly depended. Since the commencement of the present year, how ever, the tendency to explore for gold has been gradually gaining ground. Party after party has started for the Cuyuni and other spots, where indications of gold have been observed, and, latterly, overseers in several instances 82 Venezuela: its mineral wealth. have thrown up their situations and started for the gold districts, at the head of considerable bodies of pros pectors ; consequently Demerara is becoming alive to the fact that in her immediate neighbourhood, and in the direction of Guyana, lies a large tract of woodland,, accessible in a great measure by water, with but few- obstructions, and those easily overcome ; that this. territory abounds in indications of gold ; that if these indications prove correct, a new industry will be created almost at her doors, and that, instead of sugar to Europe she will be called on to send supplies to an inland population, engaged in a more profitable occupation than cane cutting at a shilling a day. The old Dutch navigators worked their way up the Essequibo arid its tributaries to within 60 miles of the Caratal mining districts. There are three or four rapids to pass, but, with the present engineering knowledge,. these would soon disappear, or become navigable, either by removal or by canal round them. England's claim to the watershed of the Essequibo has never been abandoned, and I fancy the time is near at hand when more will be heard of this. Nations now do not believe entirely in diplomatists. who know nothing of geography. Men who occupy land which they believe belongs to their country, will be. disposed to hold, and, if necessary, fight for it, and Governments, now, have to follow, rather than lead, the opinions of the people they govern. The province of Guyana, which comprises one half VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 83 of Venezuela, and is itself larger than the whole of France, has a population of barely 50,000, and the greater part of these are either engaged in the mining district, or settled in the few towns widely apart, which are scattered about the country. Millions of acres of rich land in a fine upland, healthy situation, are abso lutely without an inhabitant. The authorities will tell you that they would gladly welcome emigrants. One, or even two millions of such might settle themselves and take what land they liked without interference, or any rent to pay. Soil good, climate healthy, perpetual summer, little labour required, and, like the patriarch, the emigrant could see his family grow up around him in peace and plenty. But no fortunes, no large crops to be shipped and great profits realised. I speak to those who, starving at home, desire to get a livelihood, and are willing to give up the excite ments and pleasures of civilised home life for a contented and quiet existence under summer skies. Monied men are at the bottom of most emigration schemes, and these seek rather, after interest for their outlay, in the shape of return from the regions they have populated, than the mere comfort and settlement of the emigrant. His health, and even life, are a secondary question to that of getting rich tracts of waste land, able to produce sugar, tobacco, cotton, corn, and other articles useful for home trade. There may be fever and ague, but the land yields heavy crops, therefore people are urged to go there. Everyone hopes to escape the fever or ague, and to be 84 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. the one lucky enough to grow great crops and become rapidly rich and return home. That is the mischief — return home. The true emigrant should be at home where he settles : for the future, that alone should be his country. How few, out of the thousands of emigrants, return home rich. How many are poor, disappointed, fever- stricken, and broken down ; among these, the real settler, the man who wants a home, a living only, has no place. Emigration schemes on a vast scale, both in Venezuela and else where in South America, have again and again failed, and why ? The company, or originators, have selected the mouths or deltas of large rivers as settlements, from the richness of soil and proximity to the sea board. But these deltas, although rich beyond all other places, are also deadly beyond all other places. Raised to the rank of land from the vegetable deposit of ages, brought down by periodical floods, they are elevated but a few feet above the level of the river itself, and often, during the rainy season, reduced to a mere swamp. Covered with a thick growth of rank vegetation, constantly decaying and as constantly renewed, the)- form a true El Dorado to the one emigrant, whose iron constitution enables him to resist the deadly malaria, while they furnish only graves for the ninety-nine who succumb to those malign influences. The delta of the Orinoco, was made the scene of one of these attempts, resulting in a disastrous failure. The place selected was utterly unfit for Europeans to exist in, still less to labour in, and the whole thing fell VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 85 through, after a great expenditure of life, time, and money, while, a hundred miles further up the river, lay, a fair open land, rising from the river side to the distant mountains, one thousand feet above, where the climate was fit, the land good, and the inhabitants scanty. But, the products required for the present, could not be grown here, or, if grown, could not be got down to the sea at a price to pay the speculator. So the emigrants died in the mud, and the uplands remain uncultivated. 86 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER VII. JJAVING completed all our business at Cindad Bolivar, we gladly bade adieu to that hot city, and embarked on our old boat, " the Bolivar," then about to make a return trip to Trinidad. Although we were only proceeding as far as Las Tablas, all the Custom House formalities had to be again gone through, and a permit obtained for us and our effects to be landed there. I shall have occasion hereafter, to describe more fully this part of the river, as I was com pelled later on, to return to Cindad Bolivar in an open boat. Leaving Bolivar at 6 p.m., we reached Las Tablas about i o'clock in the morning. The town of Las Tables consists of an assemblage of mud huts, on the bank of the Orinoco, which, at this place, is very broad and very shallow. The ground slopes gradually from the street to the water, leaving a long reach of soft white sand, glistening in the fierce sunlight. The steamer, although built expressly to draw as little water as possible, cannot get near the shore, so we, and our belongings, are transferred into a flat-bottomed boat, and rowed a quarter of a mile, when we are landed on the beach aforesaid, to be immediately seized upon by another troop of soldiers and Custom House agents, and marched away to a mud hut, in front VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 87 of which, hangs the Venezuelan flag (in cotton stuff), guarded by a man and a Remington rifle. Here our baggage is impounded till the morning, as the Chief of the Customs is in bed, and is much too great a man to be disturbed, so we are allowed to pass out, and obtain shelter where we can. This, we at last do, in another mud-built and thatched shanty, bearing the pretentious sign of the English Hotel. Here, we obtain an empty room, and swinging our hammocks (which a polite Cus tom House officer had, after inspection and much negociation, allowed us to take with us), we tried to get whatever rest was possible, under a double infliction of sand-flies, and mosquitos. Anything to eat or drink, at that hour was out of the question. At this hostelry, the only one the town of Las Tablas contains, we found the highest charges, the worst living, and the greatest dirt of all the high-priced, badly- con ducted and dirty inns throughout the country. It belonged, of course, to a General, in this case a black one. After a sleepless night, we attended at the Custom House, where, on the arrival of the chief officer, who himself was very kind and polite, our luggage was examined, and we were permitted to remove it. As Las Tablas bears a bad reputation, even in Venezuela, as a place where fever is always prevalent, and where a new arrival generally catches it before he has been there many days, we were very urgent in our desire to leave, but it was necessary to obtain mules forourjourney. These had to be looked for and caught on t he savannah, some twelve miles off, and the hotel people 88 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. assured us it was impossible to get away until the next day. However, by judicious bribery, and the influence of one or two of the storekeepers, to whom our agents at Cindad Bolivar had furnished us with letters of intro duction, and perhaps better than these, because it was known that we were proceeding to the mines, and were sending up a large quantity of machinery through Las Tablas, which they were very anxious to secure the contract for, or for all these reasons combined, pressure was brought to bear on the mule owners, and by noon, some dozen animals were brought in for us to select from. A more wretched set Inever saw. Sore-backed, and with wrung withers, they stood with drooping heads and starved bodies before us, but it was Hobson's choice, these or none. The owner spoke in high terms of their prowess and ability to do all we wanted, appealing to the crowd of loafers around, who joined in a chorus of praise. Mr. Matheson, one of the gentlemen to whom we had introductions, assured me that, however wretched looking the animals seemed, they were quite able to carry us, and that they were in the habit of doing the same journey with heavy loads once or twice every month, so with his assistance, we selected four of the most likely- looking, and hired them for the journey. We were lucky in meeting here with the peon, who comes every fortnight from Callao to Las Tablas with the mail bags, and was then about to return, as we were enabled to get him to go up with us, and to look after the animals, regulate the journeys, &c, &c. We found hini a most pleasant and agreeable, as weH as competent and active guide. Riding his own mule, we were not under the VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 89 necessity of providing an animal for him, and he proved of great assistance to us on our road. Having given the animals a good feed of corn, which they devoured as a luxury to which they had long been strangers, we proceeded to get what we could for ourselves. This was but meagre fare : very salt stock fish, cassava cakes, which, at first taste, seem to be a mixture of oatmeal and cotton wool, eggs, (mine was bad, and there were no more), and the usual coffee. The black waiter even seemed ashamed of the table, and deplored the absence of his master, who had gone to Trinidad to see his doctor. He was a General, as usual. Rest there was none in this wretched place, hotter, if possible, than Cindad Bolivar, sand-flies in millions, and miasma in every puff of the hot, bad-smelling air, and yet Las Tablas has a very large carrying trade. All the goods, provisions, machinery, wine, spirits and supplies generally, for the entire mining territory, as well as for Guacipati, Upata, and other towns and vil lages through the greater part of Guyana, are, after passing through the Custom House at Cindad Bolivar, brought back by water to Las Tablas, and sent from thence by donkeys, mule carts and cattle waggons up into the interior. This is the place whence the railway, planned to go up to Guacipati, the capital, is to start from, when it is made. Yet nothing can be brought here direct. Bolivar is the port of entry, although a hundred miles higher up, and the short-sightedness of the Caracas Government, causes the price of every thing to be nearly doubled by these vexatious restric- -go VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. tions. Everything has to be landed, duties paid, re-shipped, re-landed, again inspected by Custom House agents, and certified as identical with the things already paid for at Bolivar, before a single article can be -carried inland. This entails delays of from ten to thirty ¦days, and. frequently causes the price of the land trans port to be doubled. Roads, excellent to-day, in a fortnight's time may be rendered impassable by the rains, and then, instead of twenty days occupied by the inland conveyance to Callao, it may take a couple of months, and sometimes more. All this could be avoid ed by making Las Tablas a port of entry for foreign vessels, but then this would injure the vested interests •of Generals having concessions or property at Cindad Bolivar, and so the whole State of Guyana suffers. On each side of the town of Las Tablas, along the river-side run lagoons and swamps, covered with man- .groves, while inland, for six miles, runs a flat loose sandy plain. Five miles further up another great stream adds its waters to the great river, and about nine miles from the junction, occur the famous falls of Coroni, which, in extent and beauty are only surpassed by Niagara. Here Raleigh landed and searched for gold. The noise of these falls is plainly heard at Las Tablas. At 6 p.m., after again attempting to appease our hunger with the meagre fare provided, we made a start from Las Tablas, determined not to pass another night there. After half an hour's ride over the sands, the sky VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. gi suddenly became overcast, and we had our first baptism in Venezuela, being caught in a regular tropical storm. The rain after an hour or more passed off, leaving us benighted, without a glimpse of moon or stars, while the lightning, with blinding flashes, still continued at inter vals to light up for a moment every thing around, leaving us again in total darkness. No wonder then, that at last in an open sandy plain, we managed to stray from a road, which, even in broad daylight, is traceable only by the marks of the waggon wheels. After wandering aimlessly about for a couple of hours we literally ran against an old hut, or shelter, consisting of poles stuck in the ground with a thatch of palm leaves, anything but impervious to the rain. Our guide, however, recognised it, and under his advice we swung our hammocks between ;the poles, unsaddled the mules and rested as best we could to await the break of day. No sooner had the first streak of light appeared on the horizon than we were on our feet ready to start, mules were loaded and saddled, hammocks packed and buckled on, and away we went. Everything seemed fresh and pleasant after the rain. Our guide informed us that we were at the edge of the forest, having traversed the sandy plain, and were six miles on our road. In half an hour we entered on the forest road. First came our baggage mule, loaded up with port manteaus, bags, capateros, rifle, umbrellas, &c, &c, until the load seemed larger than the animal, and com pletely covered it, except head, tail, and four feet. Then followed our guide, riding a capital animal, with another 92 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. led mule, which was attached by its head-rope to the tail of the one he was riding. Then our party in single file; our engineer and superintendent, who had been many times in the country, and had frequently travelled this road ; then the millwright, who also was well acquainted with the country ; then your humble servant ; and last, my sporting coadjutor. All dressed nearly alike, trousers tucked into our boots, with huge spurs, flannel shirts, a la Garabaldi, with leather belts, in which were stuck revolver, bowie knife, and ammunition pouch, and, crowning all, great pith helmets, the best shelter from the scorching rays of the sun. In front of our Australian saddles were buckled our waterproof military coats, while behind was strapped a capatero (a coarse cotton bag like a pillow case, with strings to draw up at each end), holding a hammock and the usual necessaries to change at each resting place. Our sportsman had, in addition, a pair of saddle bags, holding ammunition, filter, cosmetics and sundries, for his personal comfort. A queer-looking set we seemed, unwashed, with beards sprouting, splashed with last night's wet, hungry and unkempt, as we joked each other about our personal appearance. Soon, how ever, this ceased. Our thoughts were irresistibly drawn to the scene around us. Here, at last we were in the primeval forest. As the dawn brightened, on all sides, rose the hum of insects, the cries of beasts, and monkeys; the parrots and macaws shrieked and chattered as they flew overhead, while the huge trees rising on each side towered aloft, VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 93 their bare trunks standing up like stone pillars for eighty or a hundred feet, and then covering over with their dense top foliage the entire road, affording a pleasant shelter to the traveller from the sun's rays. Huge bunches of orchids and parasites hung from, or twined on their branches, while many a liana or creeper twisted and turned around them. Many of these trees were quite bare, others covered with many colored blossom, while others again, were clothed in foliage, ranging from deepest green to bright yellow. Sometimes at -little openings in the road would appear a perfect mass of bright crimson blooms, then another tree, covered with orange colored or mauve flowers, while clusters of stephanotis shed a perfume over the whole, that was almost overpowering. Little or no color was on the ground, or near it, all was above on the tops of these gigantic trees, not a bloom here and there, but entire trees, covering many yards of surface. Ferns, aloes, palms, &c. were conspicuous by their absence. The gigantic denizens of the primeval forest left neither space nor light for them to grow in. Here and there where some settler had formerly cleared away a patch which had been abandoned, we found them in profusion, but among the great trees, never. Round such clearings the creepers and parasites seem to have taken a stronger hold of the trees and coated them with whole sheets of green, hanging from their branches to the ground like a great pall, while a few straggling branches above seemed to struggle through them in vain endeavour to get, as it were, a breath of air. 94 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Through this^ forest, ever the same yet ever new and changing, we rode on, silent and awed The road (so called) was merely a wide track cut through it, the dead and rotten trees lying on each side, while their stumps stick up all over it, obliging the rider to pay some attention to his animal or risk an awkward fall. Now we would come on a wide and deep pool, round which it was necessary to creep cautiously, presently a fallen tree would obstruct the passage ; this must either be gone round or cut through. Again, a mass of rocks would crop up requiring careful riding and sure-footed animals, or it would plunge suddenly down to where some black-looking stream ran sluggishly through the bottom and rise as abruptly on the other side. Here you must hold on by the mane, there by the tail, at another place lift your legs to the level of the saddle to avoid being wetted by the stream into which your mule would unhesitatingly jump. The best plan I found was to trust entirely to my animal ; he knew the road, had been that way before, probably many times ; I had not, so I trusted him, and my confidence did not prove mis placed. After a pleasant ride through this scenery, of about four or five miles, we reached St. Jose, a collection of five or six small settlements, where we obtained some very good coffiee, mew milk and biscuits. Here our young sporting friend again gave vent to his enthusiasm expressing his disappointment at not having seen any large game, and hoping soon to meet tigers or bears, or other big animals. Being told that we might find VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. g5 something further on, the rifle was looked up, loaded,. and placed ready for action. After a short stoppage at St. Juan, we pushed on again, passing by Corales, through the woods, for Paradero (sometimes called Paradiso). Before reaching this, we emerged from the woodland on to some savannah or open land, covered with fine grass, and with clumps of trees here and there, bearing a great resemblance to a gentleman's park. Scarcely had we left the wood, when we saw deer at no great distance, which, disturbed by us, at their feeding time, were running to shelter. A little further on, our guide, who was in advance, threw up his hand and stopped. We all looked out, and there, sure enough, was a fine buck, at 130 or 140 yards distance, standing perfectly still under a tree- Our sportsman dismounted ; out came the rifle, and he slowly crept forward to get a good, steady shot, while. we remained watching, and anticipating how pleasant an addition, venison steaks would be to the meagre breakfast we were accustomed to. At last, after careful adjustment and steady aim, " crack " went the rifle ; we raised our heads and looked ; so did the buck, who evidently not even alarmed, walked slowly three or four steps. Again rang out the shot. This time striking the ground some yards in front of him. His walk increased to a slow trot, giving opportunity for a third, and a fourth shot before he passed out of sight, into the woods Our hopes of meat for breakfast were gone. An expression of melancholy and disgust pervaded the face of our guide, while the unlucky sportsman proceeded g6 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. to dilate upon the difficulty of making good shooting at uncertain and unknown distances ; that it was a new rifle, atmospheric influences, &c, &c. It was gravely proposed by one of the hungry lookers on, that the peon should measure the distance to the next deer we met, and chalk a bull's eye on his side, when our friend would have a better chance. As for myself, I mentally registered a vow that if ever the meeting between the tiger and my sporting friend should occur within measurable distance of myself, I would, as the Yankees say, "make tracks." Shortly afterwards, when passing through a belt of woodland, just before reaching Paradero, a large bird of the turkey species was seen sitting on the branch of a tree, some hundred yards in the bush. Our Mill Superintendent, who, I afterwards discovered, was really a very keen sportsman, and an excellent shot, quietly drew his revolver and fired. The bird dropped, but, owing to the dense nature of the underwood, could not be found. We reached Paradero at eight o'clock in the morning, a distance from St. Juan of eighteen miles. This is another of the small village settlements met at intervals on the road. From the nature of the wood and bush round for miles, and the old and abandoned cultivated land this was probably one of the stations of the Capuchins, and a hundred years ago was thickly popu lated, and well cultivated ; to-day it is occupied by half- a-dozen Spanish and Indian, or half-bred, natives, who VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. g7 grow only just sufficient for their own immediate wants, and levy a heavy toll on all travellers, in the shape of charges for what they supply. We rested, during the heat of the day, at Paradero, when, thanks to our guide, who was well known, we procured an excellent breakfast. Here we tasted for the first time, a dish, peculiar to the country, called a sancocho, being a sort of soup or stew made from fowl, fish, and various kinds of native herbs and vegetables. We all pronounced it delicious, and ceased to regret the venison. After breakfast we slung our hammocks and rested till half-past three o'clock, when the mules, having been duly fed, and the bill paid, we started for Upata, a distance of twenty miles, passing through Altagracia, another small, straggling village or settle ment. The distances from Las Tablas to Upata, with the different stopping places, are, from Las Tablas to Cherico, where we halted for the night, six miles, from Cherico to San Juan four miles, San Juan to Corales twelve miles, Corales to Paradero six miles, Paradero to Altagracia twelve miles, and Altagracia to Upata eight miles, making a total of forty-eight miles. All the country through which we passed, with the exception of the first six miles to Corales, which is a sandy desert with only chapperal, a kind of scrubby tree with leaves like sand paper growing here and there on it, is very rich, and capable of growing cocao, coffee, vanilla, corn, sugar, and vegetables and fruits of all kinds in profusion. Traces everywhere abound of former extensive cultivation. Coffee 'and vanilla is frequently g8 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. seen growing wild. Most of the small villages we passed through were formerly missions or convents of the Capuchins or Jesuits, and were surrounded by a very large population of Indian cultivators, but now all is ruin, and the bush and forest are rapidly asserting their dominion. Upata is a considerable town standing in a plain surrounded by hills, and is 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. Here the climate is delicious, the air pure and cool, and the temperature perfectly endurable to Europeans. It is looked upon as a sanatorium. Here people resort who suffer from the fever of the country, and cannot shake off its effects. In this beautiful climate they easily recover health and strength. There is a fine cathedral and a cemetery about half-a-mile distant. This is well- kept, and is filled with trees and flowers of all sorts. Upata is a very old town, being mentioned by Raleigh in his history, as being visited by some of his men under Capt. Keymiss. It afterwards became a large mission or settlement of Capuchins, and had then a population of three or four thousand. Upata, like all old Spanish towns, presents an appear ance of cheerlessness and decay, very depressing to the visitor. The houses all present their blind side to the street, and the patio, or yard and garden, are enclosed in the rear. We spent Good Friday at Upata in an hotel of the usual kind, being provided with a room containing four rings for our hammocks, and a jug and basin ; but they gave us a very good breakfast, excellent VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. gg bread, very. fine chocolate and coffee, and plenty of new milk, so that we were not by any means badly off. We were lucky also in procuring plenty of corn for our mules. Here our sporting friend finished up his first mule, the animal's back being so severely wrung that it was un able to proceed. The guide managed, after much running about, to procure him another, and his poor brute was left, to be taken, at the first conyenient oppor tunity, to Las Tablas. Leaving Upata, on Saturday at five a.m., we rode through a delicious country, always ascending, until we reached the highest point of the range, 1,400 feet above sea level. On crossing this, a magnificent view burst upon us. Away below, as far as the eye could reach, stretched vast undulating plains of waving grass, dotted at intervals with clumps of splendid trees. Some in bloom, others in leaf, and of every tint of flower or leaf, from deepest crimson to palest yellow. Occasionally a thin belt of forest marked the course of a stream, or a ¦denser mass of trees' shewed where lay a lagoon, while in the extreme distance, grey against the crimson dawn, rose the peaks of the distant mountains. This does not open by degrees, but, on turning a corner of the road, the whole panorama suddenly lies spread before you in all its impressive beauty. I can never forget it. It is at this point that the watershed changes. On the Upata side, all the streams and rivers run to the north, and empty into the Orinoco ; on the other side all the mountain streams run to the southward, emptying into the Yuruari, and eventually into the Essequibo. IOO VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I shall speak of this further on, when on the question of boundaries. Our first stoppage was at La Florida, a ranch or cattle estate, where we were very hospitably entertained. The house, of the usual description, almost unbearable, from its squalor and wretched appearance, to an Englishman, but considered by the inhabitants to be perfectly comfortable. The owners, I believe, are an old and wealthy family. Here again our friend took out his rifle, with a view to retrieving his reputation upon any alligators, snakes, or birds he could see in a lagoon near by. However, he returned without any results. We have now decided unanimously that we cannot trust to him for any additional supplies for our larder,. and must procure and carry tinned meats in future. After breakfast, and a good long rest, we left La Florida at 3.30 p.m., reaching a ranch called Candelaria at about 7, where we dined and stayed all night. Rose at 4 a.m., and after a slight breakfast of milk, coffee and aiscuits, started on our journey. The country still re tains its character of park-like beauty. As we proceed, the wood clumps increase in size and numbei , and the soil is evidently very fertile, but there are no inhabitants. We passed many very beautiful situations for farms. A little further on, when passing through a belt of wood, we were shown the place where the ambush was laid for the capture of the gold coming from the mines, and just. by, the spot, marked with a cross, where Mr. Bush, who was in charge of it, was speared and killed. This occurred in 1878, and was the first and only, time that. any such attempt was ever made. VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 101 Upon the news reaching the mines, the population turned out en masse, and parties scoured the country in every direction. The perpetrators, six in number, were very soon captured, and taken to Guacipati, where they were lodged in jail, from here they were sent to Cindad Bolivar with an escort of soldiers, but they were all shot by the escort long before they reached that place. The officer in command, on his return to Guacipati, reported that they had tried to escape, and not having sufficient men to prevent it, he shot them all. Their bodies were identified, and they were buried where they fell, at a spot not far from Florida. The officer was publicly censured, but was afterwards promoted, and I heard that he received some i ,000 dollars from the mines for promptly carrying out the law. It was felt at the mines indeed, that should any of these men escape through family influence or bribery, as was only too probable, if they were once out of the neighbourhood, there would be no safety in future for the gold going from the mining district to Bolivar, and as this is from 20 to 30,000 ounces of gold per month, representing about ,£"100,000 sterling, it was absolutely necessary that an example should be made, and by their summary punishment, others effectually deterred from like attempts. It was often stated, however, before me, that the originator of the robbery was a man of high position at Caracas, and that, not being present at the actual attempt, he had escaped punishment, but was eventually shot by some unknown hand in Caracas. Passing this memorable spot, we reached Platinal at 10 a.m. Our friend had another shot this morning at an eagle, or very large 102 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. falcon, sitting on a dead tree, who flew away apparently none the worse. At 9.30, before reaching Platinal, we obtained the first view of the land where lie the gold mines to which we are bound. Platinal is a very large low house, thatched as usual with palm, with corral and garden attached, and belongs to an old Spanish family, holders of a great deal of land in the neighbourhood. Here, after a glass of milk, we rested till 2 p.m., when we started for Guacipati, which we reached at 7 p.m. Guacipati is not so large or populous as Upata, but it is the Capital and centre of Government of the State of Guyana. Here lives the Governor, and all Government officials. During our ride on Good Friday, at every ranch or dwelling we passed, all the inhabitants, young and old, male and female, were in gala dress, and occupied in playing peg-top. They spun and pegged away in the gravest manner. It was evidently a national pastime, and was highly thought of, as a sort of ceremony especial to Good Fridays and Saint Days, rivalled only by the national sport of cock-fighting, which is carried on in every town. The cocks are fought in their natural spurs, reduced by scraping to the sharpness of needle points. Large sums are constantly won and lost at these con tests. The gaol, the barracks, the courts of justice, both civil and criminal, and all the various offices for regis tration of deeds, or titles, or powers, or agreements (for everything has to be registered in Venezuela, and must be on stamped paper) for receipt of taxes, dues, fines, VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I03 or other payments, and generally for the conducting of the Government. Here also is a Cathedral, made out of part of an old convent. Guacipati, like all other towns on the road, is mainly dependant on the mining district for support, and when the mines close, or are not doing much, trade at Guacipati and elsewhere languishes. At the time of our arrival everything was very dull, and our enterprise was looked upon with great favor, as likely to give an impetus to business generally. There are several very good and large stores in Guacipati, either branches of, or in connexion with the great wholesale stores at Cindad Bolivar, whence they draw all their supplies. During our journey to Guacipati another disaster overtook our sportsman. We were caught in a heavy shower, and were obliged to don our mackintoshes. Mine was simply one of the military cloaks as worn by the cavalry, and answered its purpose very well, but our friend, disdaining such a common article, had ordered one to be specially prepared for him (all his things were special), with the addition of a large hood to cover his hat. He had donned for his entry into Guacipati, a very nice Tussore silk coat (light yellow), over his shirt, and looked very nice in it. When I saw the rich blue black cape unfolded, and put on, with its hood, amply protecting hat and head, I felt quite mean, and loathed my own rusty looking garment with no head protector, but when, after the rain was over, and we uncloaked, I saw the results, I became quite reconciled. Whether the eminent firm who had made the garment my friend wore, had been hurried in their preparation, or whether they had thought it was 104 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. not likely to come back from South America, and so did not mind,' they certainly had .not taken care in dyeing it. When he emerged from its ample folds, at first I was doubtful whether or no the interview between the tiger and him had taken place, and the beast was there in his stead, he was so colored ; long stripes and blotches of black streaked his hat and face, while the coat had become like Joseph's, a coat of many colors. I fancy, from the expression of his face, that the eminent -firm are likely to hear more of the matter. We remained at Guacipati three days to settle our business there, and everywhere met with great kindness and hospitality. On Easter Monday there was a great celebration of some victory won by some one during some revolution, but whether it was Bolivar or Blanco, or Crespo, or any one else, I was quite unable to learn. However, dyna mite .cartridges were let off every five minutes in the Plaza, or square, then a man blew a bugle, then another beat a drum, thirty men with muskets appear in front of barracks, form in line, officer heads them, and they march some thirty yards to the end of the Plaza, and back again. Same repeated every two hours. Every house has a flag displayed, some Venezuelan, some German, some French, and some nondescript, while three door bells, supposed to belong to the Cathedral, rang at intervals during the day. In the evening the inhabitants walk on the Plaza, amid crackers, drums, trumpets and musketry, until midnight, and then the celebration is over, and one can sleep. VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I05 CHAPTER VIII. |JE left Guacipati on Thursday, April 29th, at 2 p.m., and now considered ourselves as || fairly entered on the mining district of Guyana. The country after leaving Guacipati maintains its savannah - like character interspersed with thin belts of forest, generally marking water courses ; but the soil becomes more barren, the grass is coarser, the patches of bare red earth and out-cropping rock more frequent, while the land is either sandy or gravelly. This appearance of sterility is increased by the habit of burning the grass just before the rainy season every year. After a pleasant ride of three hours we reached the belt of woodland through which the famed mines and town of El Callao are approached. Passing through this and crossing the river Yuruari, we reached El Callao about 5.30 p.m., entering through the " Gate of Heli," and on our departure we had to pass out through " Purgatory," two streets so named at each end of the Town. El Callao is a veritable miners' town, built without plan, and with materials of the oddest description ; while, as it is impossible, on ac count of earthquakes, to carry the houses higher than one story, and space is very limited, they are all huddled up together. They are all built either with 106 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. wood or mud walls, and roofed with galvanized iron ; or in seme cases with empty provision tins, cut and flattened out. The streets are laid (not paved) with huge stones, open gutters running down the centre, through which runs the sewage. There are no sanitary arrangements whatever, and after seeing the dirt, squalor, and close packing of the inhabitants, the. comparative healthiness of the place is surprising. It consists commercially of about 20 stores, connected with the wholesale houses of Cindad Bolivar, about 100 drinking shops, and 30 or 40 cafes, billiard saloons and gambling dens, all of the most miserable looking sort ; but I was told that an)'- one who had influence enough to get a permit to sell liquor, and money enough to rent a single room to sell it in, might, with no other stock than a deal board for counter, and two or three empty flour barrels for seats, two or three dozen bottles or jars of common country spirit, and half-a-dozen glasses, make a net profit of from ^2,000 to ^3,000 per annum. The rent of a room of this sort, in a good position, would be ^400 per annum. Parafine or petroleum is the only illuminant used. The stores supply everything, and goods costing one pcund in England or North America fetch here ^"io or ^20, according to the quantity in stock. We were received with great kindness, and most liberally enter tained by Mr. Perkins, the superintendent of El Callao mine, who showed us over every part of this vast establishment. Mr. Perkins, who is an American of considerable VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 107 experience, has effected great reforms and saving, with much increased efficiency in this mine. He has introduced- and perfected here the use of Pneu matic Drills, which had proved a failure in every other mine in Venezuela which had tried them. The secret of his success was the importation from Cali fornia of experts accustomed to their use, and in the case of a strike of miners which recently occurred, he was enabled by them alone to keep the mills running until the men gave in to his terms. One of these drills properly handled will do the work of 10 miners working by hand. El Callao Mine. The richest in South America, was originally a spot where miners, in consequence of proximity to the river, used to dig the surface soil and wash the earth, finding nuggets and gold dust in very considerable quantities. The ground throughout the neighbourhood is honeycombed with these pits, from six to twenty feet deep, and this industry is occasionally carried on at the side of the river, when it is very low. In 1870 a small company was formed to dig down to the bed rock and try for a lode, and the original capital consisted of 12 shares, of 500 dollars each. In April, 1873, there were 39 shareholders, and by the end of that year 106. At present there are 600. The original capital was raised in the country, and they set to work with varying success. Original shares now worth between /6o,ooo and ^"70,000 each, were offered in Trinidad for /200. At last, after proof that the lode was undoubtedly very rich, more capital was brought 108 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. in, better machinery employed, and the mine progressed until it now produces the enormous quantity of 19,000 ounces of gold per month. The share Capital of £"13,524 was subsequently raised, by subdivision, into 32,000 shares, of £"40 each nominal, the market price of each share being now about £"80, and the dividend in August, 1886, was at the rate of 24 per cent, on that amount. The nominal capital at present price of £"80 per share is £"2,576,000, and there is a rumour of a proposed subdivision again into £"io shares. At present the produce is about i\ ounces to the ton, but there have been spots from which six and even seven ounces have been obtained for considerable periods. El Callao, however, has, like other mines, had its periods of depression. Extravagant outlays, superin tendents addicted to profuse expenditure, some in machinery, others in building, have more than once reduced it to a low ebb, but a discovery in time of a richer vein of paying stuff has always turned up to assist it. The management in times past was princely. Samples containing large quantities of ore were freely given away ; instances are known of as much as 10 ozs. of gold in a single sample, and £"50,000 per annum is a moderate estimate of the loss to the mine through such outgoings. Now all this is stopped, samples must be paid for, even by the superintendent himself. I fancy, however, the management is not quite so careful. It is a mistake to have the board in Venezuela alone. The interests of European shareholders are very large, and they should have a greater voice on the board which at VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. IOg present consists of four gentlemen (Corsicans), all at Cindad Bolivar. The gold in this mine is found in a fine white quartz, is free gold and plainly visible, indeed I have seen a sack full of samples in the office which, if assayed, would yield hundreds of ounces per ton, but these are of course picked specimens. In company with the superintendent I descended No. 6 shaft to the workings 780 feet deep. Mr. Perkins afforded me every oppor tunity and assistance for investigation, Callao is undoubtedly a magnificent mine, and had the lode continued to maintain its course with regularity would be the best in the world, but of late there has been a bend in the lode and a tendency to turn upwards again. This may cease and the lode again descend ; if it does not, then Callao's prosperity will quickly termi nate. There will be a vast increase in the produce for a short time when at the bottom of the pocket, and then it will die away to nothing. Up to the present time, although earnestly sought after, no fresh descent of the lode has been discovered. In Mr. Perkins, the superintendent, the directors have undoubtedly got the right man in the right place. The lode in this mine runs N. and S., in most others the lodes run E. and W. The vast engineers' and carpenters' shops attached to the works are all fitted with the best and newest appliances and machinery, while at the mine itself everything is studied for the comfort of the miner, and wherever possible, labour is economised by the use of machinery, and the huge storehouses are packed full of 110 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. every article that can by any possibility be required. Their newest mill lately erected is capable of crushing twice as much ore as the old one, with a staff of one half the number of men and with the same steam power, the weight of the stamps being greatly increased. The residence of the superintendent and staff is the finest building in the district, and the display of the various woods of the country employed in pannelling the office, and beautifully polished, is unique. Notwithstanding all this, I would sooner sell any Callao shares I held, at their present price, than buy more. For market purposes they may be forced higher, but in my opinion they are now fetching their full value, and, if they fall, the fall will be great. Callao is at present running 120 stamps, and the produce for August last was, according to their returns, 19,000 oz., or nearly £"75,000 sterling. During a recent strike of the miners, owing to a dispute as to the number of inches to be drilled in the rock to constitute a day's work, the men wanting 32 inches and the superintendent insisting on 40 inches as the proper quantity, Mr. Perkins set to work eight automatic drills, with which he succeeded in keeping up a supply of quartz for the mills until the men gave way. These automatic drills had before been tried in other mines, but had invariably failed, owing to the employment of average miners to work them. Mr. Perkins brought over men from California specially skilled in working these drills, and the result was a VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Ill great success, each drill doing in two hours the day's work of a miner. The only drawback to the use of these drills is the initial expense which is very heavy, and the necessity of employing none but specially trained men who are difficult to obtain. At present El Callao is paying £"30,000 per annum for fuel, having cut down all the timber near the mine, so that it has to be drawn in by waggons from a very considerable distance. Callao Bis. We visited Callao Bis during our stay at Callao. It lies at the top of the Town of El Callao, and, like El Callao, is bare of timber, and will have to buy in all its fuel, when required. This mine was originally opened with the hope of coming up on the same rich lode as El Callao, which, according to calcula tion,, at the incline the lode lay, would somewhere or other pass through it. There have been three separate shafts sunk by different managers for this purpose, but none of them have yet struck the lode. The last of them, sunk by General Volveider while in charge, is the deepest, and would undoubtedly have struck the Callao lode but for the unexpected divergence from its former dip. Assuming which at best, is doubtful, that it again resumes its former dip it will pass through one corner of the Callao Bis property at a depth between 300 and 600 yards. To cut this, if possible, Captain Richards, the present superintendent, has commenced sinking a new shaft at the edge of the property, which is now down some 100 feet, and may, in the course of another 112 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. year, reach the lode, if the lode should run there. Capt. Richards, undoubtedly, is conducting the work as economically as possible, and it would be difficult to find a better man. There is another spot called the Azulas, which are old Spanish works long since abandoned, on which the Callao Bis Company are working, but no ore has been got from them ; nor do I think they will ever yield a paying quantity. Callao Bis has also a 20 stamp mill erected, in such a position that as soon as it commences quartz crushing, all the tailings will block up the main street of Callao, so that, even if the lode is cut, it will cost £"5,000 to remove the mill to a new site near the river, if the Company can get one. I estimate that, under the most favourable circumstances, it will cost at least £30,000, before a ton of ore can be crushed by the Callao Bis Company, and further, I do not think it likely they will cut El Callao lode at all. An arrangement was made with El Callao to work the shaft nearest to. Callao Bis, on joint account as to expen diture, with a view of ascertaining whether the lode continued to run to Callao Bis, but for some time past work has been discontinued there, and I do not think Mr. Perkins the man to abandon a paying lode, while half the expenses were guaranteed to him, and he took all the produce. The closing of Callao works at this point does not augur well for the future of Callao Bis. No. 3 shaft on Callao Bis, now abandoned, is 200 feet VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. II3 deep, and is half full of water. All the shafts are in a line bearing west. The new shaft No. 4 is calculated to cost £"20 per foot. It may therefore be looked upon as a mine now about to be opened. If the El Callao lode should be cut, I estimate that it will run about 200 yards 'through Callao Bis, dipping to 1,500 feet, and will then pass out of it into El Callao again. The flat, or shift which occurred some time ago, and which (if it ends by going down), may at any time occur again, carries the lode further and further away from Callao Bis. If it turns upwards and does not descend, there is an end to Callao Bis altogether. It may therefore be taken for granted that the property of Callao Bis is entirely dependent on the course of the El Callao Lode. If it runs as hoped, it will take at least a year to reach it. Then a mill must be put up in a different place before the ore can be crushed, so that under no circumstances can any dividend be expected from this mine for at least two years to come, and £30,000 must be expended in addition to what has been spent already. It is for investors to calculate for themselves what dividend thej' should ultimately get to recoup this outlay. Caratal is the name of the district where gold was first found by the explorers, and where quantities of surface soil are still washed for gold, which is found in nuggets. The Town is called Neuva Providencia, and 114 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. is a 20 minutes' ride from Callao. There is also a mine of the same name. Taking Caratal as a centre, the nearest group oi mines consist of El Callao with 120 stamps, Callao Bis with 20 stamps, both already disposed of. Then come Cartago or Tigre, Nueva Providencia, Union with 20 stamps, Hansa also with 20, St. Louis, Panama with 60 stamps, Nagapai with 50, Santa Rosa 30, Potosi or Peru 40, Chili with 60, and El Choco, about i\ hours ride from Chili. Of all these mines Callao, Union, Panama, Chili and Peru are either at work, or could start at a days' notice. The Cicapra is a rich deposit of what is known as placer gold ; the mine itself is difficult to work on account of its sulphurets. It has a 20 stamp mill, but it would take some time to renew foundations, etc., and get it ready for work ; and I believe it is in contem plation to work this mine in conjunction with the Union. The one having machinery fit to go and the other an undoubted Lode ; and I am informed that some parties from Venezuela are now in Europe trying to form a company to carry on the works. Eureka mine has a mill but no quartz, and is shut down, but may some day be started again under a new name ; and it is very necessary for intending investors in foreign mines to be specially careful in their enquiries as to the antecedents of the property, otherwise they are likely to be saddled with a worked out mine, with delapidated machinery, just started to run, in order that VENEZUELA :, ITS MINERAL WEALTH. II5 it may be described as a mine in full equipment and going order. Santa Rosa has an excellent 30 stamp mill in good working order and fit to start at a week's notice, but from all I could learn I fear the Lode is very poor and will not pay for working, nor do I think there is any capital left to carry on with. Chili, Panama, and Nagapai are so intimately connected together through Austin's concessions, that I will leave them until I give the history of the concession. Union mine is now being run by the El Callao Com pany. A new 20 stamp mill has been put up, but there is little if any Lode on the property, and it would never pay by itself ; it has of late been crushing Santa Rosa quartz, but the yield has not been more than half an ounce to the ton, and this will barely pay expenses when fuel has to be brought so far. It is thought by some that the chairman of El Callao contemplates -selling this and Cartago, under a new name, to some European company. Hansa. This mine was at one time worked by Americans or Germans, with a small capital, and with undoubted success, but it afterwards was the victim of ¦extravagant management and so failed, as all the capital was exhausted and no more was to be got from the shareholders. It has a twenty stamp mill, but constructed in such a -stupid manner that there is no place for the tailings or Il6 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. refuse to pass away, and the foundations are now quite rotten, so that in any case the mill would have to be rebuilt. The shaft is 150 feet deep and is now full of water, which must be pumped out, and water in the mine, in great quantities, will always be one of the chief difficulties to contend with in working this mine, if it is ever started again under a new name. There is an undoubted Lode and gold in it. .How it can be made a paying concern to shareholders is a different question. Bolivar Hill. This mine is in this district. It belongs to a French company, is now closed down and not likely to start again, as the machinery has been offered for sale in parcels. I may here remark that two mines which have been introduced to the English investors, under the- alluring names of New Callao and West Callao are not in the district at all, nor within 200 miles of the El Callao mine, with which they have nothing in common except the name ; they are situated on the other side of Bolivar. No gold has ever been produced there, and most people in the mining districts deny that they exist at all as mines. Milord is the name of another mine in this district but it has no works, nor could I learn that it was ever a paying concern. Cartago, or Tigre, Mill and works are all in bad repair and obsolete, but a lode has been proved to exist. VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. II7 Neva Providencia has no works at all now, those that were there have been sold. At El Choco, or La Concordia, the works are old and worthless, and many of them sold and removed. I heard while in the country that some attempt was being made from Trinidad to open up El Choco, and bring it out as a new company, but the information was very vague and may have referred to some other place of the same name, as I could not get any one to tell me exactly where the mine was situated, from which they were expecting great things ; some called it New Choco. In the neighbourhood of the mining district nothing was known about it. Of all these so called mines, El Callao, Nagapai, Cartago, Chili, Panama, Potosi and Hansa have been proved to possess lodes yielding gold in paying quan tities, the others are in my opinion worthless, except to people on the spot. Nagapai. This mine borders on part of El Callao, and at one time was a really productive and paying property. It is necessary here to give a short sketch of the property known as Austin's concessions, which have been the cause of so much litigation and ultimate loss to Nagapai, Chili, Panama, Potosi, &c. Mr. J. B. Austin obtained from the then Government of Venezuela a concession of a number of minas, or hectares of land for mining. One of the conditions of Il8 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. the concession being that works should be erected, and mining work begun on it, within a given time. In the concession no plan or place was given, and J. B. Austin, who seems to have been a very cunning person, pro ceeded to mark out his concession ; but instead of taking one piece of land, as was evidently the intention of the grant, he split it up into ten separate small pieces, numbered i to 10, and took one of these on the course of every lode that was discovered, thus : there is Nagapai, with concessions 2, 3 and 10 surrounding it ; Tigre, with No. 4, 5 and 6 near it ; New Hansa, adjoining No. 10 ; Santa Rosa, beyond Tigre, with Nos. 3 and 4 ; Panama, surrounded with Nos. 7 and 8 ; and Chili, which is next, joins Austin No. 9. The only works erected, were at Nagapai, and eventually the Government interfered and claimed the forfeiture of all the pieces on which no machinery had been placed, alleging, that the intention of the grant was, that works should be ereected on each separate piece which, in fact, constituted a separate concession. Previous to this, however, Mr. Nicholson, while manager at Chili, had purchased the concession Austin No. 9, and proceeded to work it, and from this, Chili mine has undoubtedly drawn a large quantity of gold. Mr. Nicholson, some two years ago, was obliged to leave the country owing to some difference with the Government: It is believed that he headed some rising of the miners, and at the last moment, when in face of the soldiery, he hauled down the English flag, which he had hoisted at Chili, and surrendered. Most VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Iig of the revolted miners suffered imprisonment, but he escaped to Trinidad. Consul Reddan, who was sent to the spot by the English Government to enquire into the matter, made a return on the subject. Mr. Nicholson now claims from the Chili company the value of all the gold they had extracted from it, alleging that he had purchased Austin No. 9 for himself. This the company denied, saying that he bought it while in the employ of Chili, as the manager of Chili, and with money, &c, belonging to the Chili company ; then Nagapai interferes, alleging that no sale was made at all, and that it belongs to Nagapai ; and so legal proceedings go on, ruinous to all parties. One of the disputants (who it was is doubtful), called the attention of the Government to these eridless quarrels, and at last the Governor seized all the Austin concessions on which no buildings were put, and declared them forfeited. This had the immediate effect of shutting off Chili from its richest source of supply, and causing Nagapai to close entirely ; because in the latter case all the works were on Nagapai, and all the lodes on Austin, Nos. 10, 3 and 2, which they were prohibited from working. Nagapai was therefore closed in consequence of these disputes ; and now the mine, at one time thought likely to rival Callao, is full of water and, of course, after two years' stoppage, will require a very large outlay to put matters straight, the machinery in working order, and get and keep the mine dry and fit to work ; £"100,000 120 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. must be expended, and that very carefully and judiciously on it, to effect this. Mr. Nass is at present in charge of the property, but there were reports that a new Company were in negociation for it. This Company, now called the Venezuelan Austin Gold Mining Company, Limited, have, according to the telegrams received from Mr. Charles Oxland, who, I understand, represents them in Venezuela, received information that the Company are now in complete legal possession of all the ten Austin concessions, including the famous Austin No. 9, situ ated close to the Chili mine. I wish them every success in, their undertaking, but a very large outlay is imperative to set Nagapai at work again, and I cannot understand what use Austin No. 9 can be to them, or any one else, except Chili, that is, if it is not worked out. Chili no doubt has had large quantities of ore from it, but they believed, when I was in the country, that it was worked out, and while at Chili I had an opportunity of thoroughly inspecting it, having gone through all the workings in company with the Governor of the Province and the Inspector of Mines, who were visiting it to ascertain whether it was still being worked by Chili, and they expressed themselves as perfectly satisfied that all workings in that direction had long been abandoned, and allowed to fall in. By what means any other Company are going to raise quartz there and take it away (if there is any), without infringing on the Chili property, is a mystery to me. VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 121 I fear the attempt will only lead to more litigation. The true course is to come to some arrangement with the Chili Company, and hand it over to them. The Austin Company will still have their hands more than full. Chili. This mine has produced considerable quantities of gold, the richest lode being Austin No. g. It has a paid-up capital of about half-a-million, which is all spent, and when I was in Venezuela there were debts and liabilities amounting to £"30,000, owing to workmen and merchants, consequently the mills and works were closed. The superintendent, Mr. Rochford, a man of great ability and judgment, had by singular tact and management, prevented threatened foreclosures, thus enabling the Company to send out some money to go on with, and I understand that the mills have again started and remitted 1,300 ounces of gold within the month, but even this amount, if continuous, would not suffice to pay dividends on the enormous capital. The works are very large, and in good order, but the frequent changes of management have been disastrous. There is undoubtedly a good lode, and Chili has sent home more than 2,000 ounces of gold per month, but even that is not enough to make it a paying concern to the shareholders. It is about four miles from El Callao, and is completely equipped with a 60-stamp mill, on solid stone foundations. Shaft No. 4 is 900 feet deep, and shaft No. 1, or water- shaft, 200 feet deep ; both have complete lifting, pump- 122 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. ing, and other machinery, either working or ready to erect. M. Rochfort, who has now been twice in command, was formerly commandant of the police in one of the Indian districts, and is unequalled in the management of the somewhat turbulent and restless natures he has to deal with. He has kept this concern going through some very troublous times. Chili has, as I have already stated, the additional misfortune to be at loggerheads with Mr. Nicholson, a former superintendent, relative to the title and workings of Austin No. 9. Freed from debt and law, and with a capital of £"150,000 at most, it would be a paying concern and very valuable property. Potosi or Peru is close to Chili. It has very extensive works and machinery, and a capital of about £"700,000. Like its neighbours, it has been to law, with no good results, and was closed during the time I was in the country. There is an undoubted lode, but it -gets lost at times, and has to be looked for; a very expensive process. There is a very large and expensive staff on this mine. Panama. — This mine is well stocked with machinery, having sixty stamps in working order, under the superintendence of Mr. Simmons; it certainly has pro duced gold in very considerable quantities, but it is loaded with a very heavy paid up and expended capital. Latterly the lode has proved very capricious, becoming poorer and poorer, and occasionally stopped by what is technically called a horse, that is, a different sort of VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. 123 rock intersecting or crossing the lode, which must be worked through or round to find the lode again. Sometimes these horses are so big that they cannot be got through, and the lode is lost. At present there is a diminution in the quantity of ore raised, and the lode is not as rich as formerly. This mine also has a quantity of sulphurets, which hitherto have baffled all endeavours to get the gold from them, but at the time of my visit Messrs. Fraser and Chalmers, of Chicago, had sent out a Mr. Hill to try a new method, and this gentleman expressed himself as confident of success. If so, it will make a considerable difference in the quantity of gold obtainable, but what dividend the mine will pay on its large capital is a question for its shareholders, I am not one. Since writing the above I learn that Panama has shut down, on account of another horse, or cross rock, intercepting the lode, but that Mr. Hill's method of treating the refuse sulphurets has proved very successful. La Victoria or Victory is about ten miles direct from El Callao, but twenty-five according to the track, or road for waggons, &c, across the savannahs. This property consists of two separate grants, or concessions, called La Victoria and Altamira, overlapping each other, and the Company, to prevent future litigation and dispute, wisely bought both, and incorporated them under the title " Victory." The property is situated on one of the spurs of the mountains, about 200 feet above the level of the savannah. The situation is very healthy, and the climate cool. 124 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. The entire property is covered with virgin forest, affording facihlties for working enjoyed by no other Company in Venezuela. A good deal of money was squandered by the superintendent of a former Company, but since the present Company has purchased the property, it appears to be getting into a sound state. The capital is £"175,000, of which only £"140,000 has been called up. There are two distinct lodes on this property running entirely through both concessions, and crossing or intersecting each other about the middle. There is no question as to the existence of plenty of gold bearing quartz, which can be seen cropping-out on the surface of the hills, while on the banks of the two quebradas or streams which run through the property, large lodes, one of 6ft. and the other 15ft., are clearly defined and visible ; there is no doubt of their richness, for the specks or points of gold can be seen by the naked eye. On this property a twenty-stamp mill is in course of erection, five stamps being already up, and the remainder ready, and works of all descriptions, such as tramways, saw mills, pumps, piping, dams, and tanks for water, are being rapidly pushed forward. The first five stamps started running in July, and at the first day's trial, crushed seven-and-a-half tons of quartz, yielding over an ounce of gold to the ton. The cost of working the mills, owing , to certain favorable circumstances of wood, water, &c, comes under half an ounce per ton of quartz crushed, including all expenses, VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I25 up to the delivery of the gold bars to the escort at Callao, so that, with a paid-up capital of £"135,000 only, I think that, with careful management, it bids fair to be a great success. It has in its favour a plentiful supply of wood and water close at hand, and an unlimited quantity of quartz in sight, without having to sink deep shafts. In Venezuela, it was considered to rank next to Callao, and many experts say that it will, in time, equal that famous mine in the quantity of gold produced. It has one great advantage over the majority of Venezuelan mines, that is, everything is paid for, it has no debts, it has capital in hand, and the subscribed capital of the Company, £"135,000, is smaller than any other there ; requiring only a moderate production to pay good dividends. Let us hope that it will not, like many other mines, be made a medium for Stock Ex change speculations, which always prove so disastrous to shareholders. Before quitting this part of my subject, I would observe that very incorrect notions of these gold-mining operations exist in Europe. The woody district of Guyana, extending down to the Essequibo and back info Brazil and the banks of the Amazon, is undoubtedly one of the richest gold-holding countries in the world, and was rightly looked upon by the adventurers of old as containing the far-famed El Dorado, but although gold certainly exists in very large quantities, the recover ing it in paying quantities is another matter. Indians and poor natives are constantly seeking and finding gold 126 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. by surfacially digging and washing the earth, wherever they can find water near enough for their purpose. Nuggets of considerable value are constantly found. -Caratal district is especially famous for this sort of mining ; rich pieces of quartz are often picked up, which, on being crushed by a hammer, will repay the individual for the labour expended. But gold quartz mining is quite another matter. A large outlay must be made to erect valuable works and machinery, fuel for the engines must be at hand, and water all the year round without fail — given all these things, comes the last, the most important, though least understood here, the gold-bearing quartz lode. We are told of rich lodes, and samples are produced, 'shewing plenty of gold. Assayers proclaim a yield of fabulous quantities of gold to the ton, and then come the calculations, shew ing in the most irrefutable manner, that although the samples show such immense quantities, yet that one ounce only to the ton is sufficient to pay handsome dividends, then sums such as : — If one stamp can crush two tons in one day, yielding two ounces, how many ounces will one hundred stamps produce in a year. All this, although perfectly true, and perhaps issued in good faith, is a delusion ; it is not from such rich lodes, or magnificent specimens that great dividends are made- it is from thick, solid masses of quartz with gold all through them, not with a rich, thin streak in the middle. A very rich lode may be a streak of gold (truly very rich), but only half an inch wide, running through the lode. But to obtain this it is necessary to get out and crush the surrounding rock to enable the miners to work VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I27 The galleries must be a certain height and width, and all the stone got out, must be lifted and taken away out of the mine, or it would be blocked up, and it must be put .through the mill and crushed, for when once blasted no one could pick out all the rich pieces. So that the enquiry of the investor should be, not how rich is the lode, or what do the samples assay, but what is the size of the lode, — does it yield gold all through, if not, how does the gold lie in it, and is it free gold or sulpurets. The other enquiries, as to capital, title, liabilities, debts, &c, at home and abroad, most commercial men can very well deal with. Above all things, in entering into new undertakings, no Company should make long appointments or engage ments with its managing staff. It is too often the fashion for sellers of such properties, to. get themselves or a friend appointed to situations of trust, and emolument, for considerable periods, generally two' or three years. If success is ever to be hoped for, this should be pro hibited and indeed no engagement should be for more than one year certain, with a fair notice on either side at the end of that time. I could name more than one mine whose prospects have been entirely wrecked and whose shareholders never had nor are ever likely to have any dividend through the difficulties created by the irresponsible holders of these original appointments. Nor in any case should the directors have the appoint ments at their discretion without advertisement for, and selection of, the most fitting applicant, such applications being open to the inspection of all shareholders. 128 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. After having visited the numerous mines, in the dis trict, and completed successfully the work I had been commissioned to do, I started on my return journey, passing over the road already described, but at a much faster pace, indeed, we rode the whole distance in less than thirty hours to try and catch the steamer touching at Las Tablas, on its upward journey to Cindad Bolivar, but being disappointed in this, owing to the Govern ment having requisitioned her for the conveyance of troops to the place of some supposed outbreak, we were compelled, on reaching Las Tablas, to hire an open dug out native canoe, and proceed up the Orinoco to Cindad Bolivar on her. How we succeeded in our undertaking must be told in another chapter. Since the foregoing report on the mines was written, several events of importance have occurred which ren der it necessary for me to add a few remarks, in order to bring the position of affairs at the mining district up to the present time, fully before my readers. First, as regards El Callao mine. A report has re cently reached England that a considerable portion of this mine has fallen in. From what I saw while in the mine, I think it is very probable that some of the old workings, where the large masses of rock, called pillars, formerly left, had been too severely cut down, may have fallen in and come together; but although this sudden closing of some part of the works may have the VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I2g effect for a short time of diminishing the output, as it appears to have done, to the extent of some three thousand ounces of gold per month, yet it is of no per manent injury to the mine ; the real point of Callao's future success or failure being the continued dipping, or rising of its lode. Capt. Richards reports, that at Callao Bis, water has come into the new shaft, thus ren dering the sinking more troublesome. Union Mine. There is also a report, lately come to hand, that on this property, now owned and worked by the El Callao Company, a new and valuable lode has been discovered, but, as yet,- I have heard of no gold having been extracted from it, and until the news is confirmed from more reliable sources, I shall continue to believe that the report is circulated for the purpose of getting a better price in the market for the property, which the Chairman of El Callao is said to be in Europe trying to negociate ; as well as to effect the sale to a new Company, of Cartago and Tigre, notices of which have lately appeared in several financial papers. Panama Mine, with its large capital and great works, has also, at last, found itself in liquidation. If this Company is ever to be successfully reconstituted, it must be with a very different capital, and with much more economical and efficient management, both at home and abroad.' Report also says that the Victory Company have had proposals made to them for the purchase and working, 130 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. by another Company, of half their property. There is ample room on this large and well-timbered estate, with its two thoroughly-defined lodes running through it, for two large establishments, working from sixty to one hundred stamps each, and it would be many years before either of them would feel the want of fuel. Both por tions of the property have been well-surveyed, inspected, and reported on, by a number of qualified men, including General Volveider, Mr. Skertchley, the well-known explorer, Capt. Pemberthy, of El Callao Mine, the la-te Mr. Ness, Mr. Lambert, late superintendent of Victory, and many others, who all unite in describing the rich ness of the quartz, and the exceptional size and quality of the lodes. At last it appears probable that the long-talked-of railway from Las Tablas to the mines, will be really commenced. The Due de Morny has, I have heard, taken up the matter, and it is hoped that the first sec tion, as far as Upata, will be laid during next year. This will necessitate making Las Tablas a port of entry for shipping, which alone will be a great boon, and an enormous saving to the population at the mining dis tricts. I hope this time it will go beyond talking. On October 22nd, 1886, there appeared in the London Gazette, and published by the authority of the British Government, the following notice, which I particularly recommend to the attention of all would-be investors in land in that part of Guyana, which is comprised within the water-shed of the Essequibo : — VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I3I " Colonial Office, Downing Street, October 21, 1886. — Whereas the boundary-line between her Majesty's Colony of British Guiana and the Republic of Venezuela is in dispute between her Majesty's Government and the Government of Venezuela ; and whereas it has come to the knowledge of her Majesty's Government that grants of land within the territory claimed by her Majesty's Government as part of the said colony have been made, or purport to have been made, by or in the name of the Government of Venezuela ; notice is hereby given, that no title to land, or to any right in, or over, or affecting any land within the territory claimed by her Majesty's Government as forming part of the colony of British Guiana, purporting to be derived from or through the Government of Venezuela, or any officer or person authorised by that Government, will be admitted or recognised by her Majesty or by the Government of British Guiana ; and that any person taking possession of, or exercising any right over, any such land under colour of any such title, or pretended title, will be liable to be treated as a trespasser under the laws of the said colony." The dispute as to boundaries has been of long stand ing ; maintained on the side of Venezuela, with its usual inpudence and disregard of truth : while, on the part of Great Britain, there has been the forbearance which usually is displayed by the stronger party when in the right. At last, however, a grant of 25,000 square miles of primeval forest, running to the bank of the Essequibo,. granted by the Venezuelan Government to one Mr. I32 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. Fitzgerald without either survey, plan, or even a state ment of its boundaries, has decided our Government to act with firmness and decision, and the first result is the notice above-quoted. England might fairly and equitably claim the whole watershed of the Essequibo, and this would cover the whole mining district of Guyana, but, with the forbear ance they have always shown in this matter, they have confined themselves strictly within the limits, where the Dutch, from whom their title is derived, have left marks of occupation, and I have it, from undoubted authority, that the British claim will not extend beyond the mouth of the Orinoco, known as the Boca de Navios, in lati tude 8-30, where still exists the remains of a Dutch fort, called Barima, from a river of the same name". From this point, the line of frontier will follow the Amicara river to a chain of mountains, touching the point of the Barima river, then from the Imataca mountain range to Acrabisi river, following the Acrabisi to the Cuyuni river, and this latter up to its source, and continuing the same line through the mountain ridge to Brazil. The total will be about 100,000 square miles, most of it untrodden by man — none of it inhabited by any Vene zuelan subjects, or likely to be, under its present form of Government, for thenext fifty years, while, under British rule, it will, in a short time, develop into one of its most important colonies. Covered with the finest wood, with splendid water communication to the sea, and soil that will grow anything, from sugar and tobacco to wheat and potatoes, the upper lands only require opening-out VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I33 to afford homes and occupation for thousands of our people. Any Government who takes less than the ter ritory now claimed, will be false to their country and its best interests. 134 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER IX. 1FTER a very sharp and fatiguing journey from Guacipati, in the course of which we rode one hundred and sixty miles in three journeys of ten hours each, we reached Las Tablas at i.o p.m., on Monday, May 24th, very tired, only to find that we had been deceived as to the time of the steamer touching there -on its road to Cindad Bolivar. Owing to some fancied outbreak higher up the river, the authorities at Cindad Bolivar had seized all the steam boats there, including the one containing part of the machinery for the " Victory " Company, and had sent them to the scene of the supposed revolt with troops, consequently there was no boat to or from Las Tablas. There was, indeed, a rumour that it was possible a large steamer coming from Caracas might touch there in a day or two, but it was very doubtful if the Custom House officials would allow any communication with the shore. The waiter at the hotel was very profuse in his recommendations, that our excellencies could do no better than stay where we were, until the steamer " Bolivar," from Trinidad, called there, which would be in three or four days time. As it was absolutely necessary that we should be in Cindad Bolivar by the 27th, at latest, our excellencies did not appreciate the VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I35 full force of his remarks ; besides, the accommodation at the hotel was so wretched and dirty, and Las Tablas itself, such a fever den, that no person would stay there a single hour more than he was obliged. Accordingly we commenced making enquiries, and at last discovered that, occasionally, the natives did go from Las Tablas to Cindad Bolivar in their canoes, but that the passage was dangerous, and that, white men, especially strangers to the country, could not, without great risk, go in this manner. The dews and malaria on the river were dangerous, and the exposure, to sun and wet, likely to be fatal. All the same, we went from one to another, and at last found ain open dug-out canoe, which was about to proceed up the river with a cargo of plantains for sale at Bolivar and the other places on the way. After some hours bargaining, we at last agreed with the owner, who was also captain, and was a one eyed negro, with a strong propensity for rum, a bottle of which was always at his side, to take us and our belongings up to Cindad Bolivar, in two days, for twenty dollars, we providing our own food, &c, and we were to start the next morning, as soon as the breeze set in. Having completed our negotiations and ordered supplies of meat, bread, and spirits to be put on board, we returned to our inn, where we were looked upon as little short of mad men. We retired, to sleep on the matter, but at midnight were awakened by the steam whistle af a large steamer. Sure enough, the steamer " Bermudas" had arrived, but, before we could get hold of the Custom House officer for a permit to go on board, she was off again, so we had to fall back on our canoe. I36 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. The next morning at 10 o'clock we went down to the beach with our luggage, and there saw our ship — an open boat, made out of the trunk of a single tree, about twenty five feet long and five wide, without a cover or shelter of any sort, with two short sticks for masts, and a curious and primitive tiller; when loaded she was about nine inches out of water, with a draught of some two feet, filled with plantains and raw hides, on the top of which we had to sit or lie as best we could ; forward there was an old iron pot, in which the fire was put, to cook coffee and other victuals. The crew consisted of the one-eyed captain, another negro as mate, and two colored natives. The passengers were myself and friend, General Volveider and a servant, and when we were all on board there was not much space to spare. From 10 o'clock till 2 p.m. we waited for a breeze, and when the long wished for wind at last began to blow, the Captain could nowhere be found. In vain we sent the police after him, and at last decided to start without him, and had really got well under weigh, when he appeared on the beach wildly gesticulating and with a bottle under each arm. We put back and took him on board, three-parts drunk, and the other part sulky. He professed to know no English, and after raving in Spanish at last declared, in that language, that he would not go. General Volveider having interpreted his determination to us, it was suggested by my friend, in English, that as the man was evidently drunk, and useless, our best course would be to throw him over board and go on without him. Whether he had a VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I37 small corner left for English or not I do not know, but he decided to go on, so at last away we went ; our run during the afternoon was about 30. miles, crossing the place where the Caroni joins the Orinoco. The Caroni is a very swift river, and its waters are of a dark brown colour, and for many miles the waters of the two rivers can be distinguished running as it were side by side. About nine miles up this river are the celebrated falls of Caroni, which Sir Walter Raleigh visited, and where he obtained several undoubted samples of gold, and his followers collected vast quantities of pyrites which they thought was gold. These falls are of great height and volume, and their noise can be heard for many miles. In a more favourable spot they would command as many wondering visitors as Niagara. We had hoisted two shoulder of mutton sails and a jib, and while running across the mouth of the Caroni, were caught in very nasty choppy sea. The captain, still with a rum bottle in one hand, steered, but, from the way the boat was yawing about, both my friend and myself began to entertain great doubts of his ability, and by cau tious enquiries conducted by our servant among the crew, we found we were not alone in our estimate of his prowess, and we learnt that he had only just purchased the canoe, and this was his first voyage on the Orinoco, a river which is one of the most difficult to navigate,, even by experienced sailors, on account of the ever changing banks and currents. Twice during the crossing of the Caroni the boat was in danger of capsizing, twice I had to put the tiller over to save her ; I38 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. on the second occasion the savage went for his knife, but a sight of my friend's revolver produced more prudent thoughts, and he contended himself with a string of Spanish oaths. At last we got across and into plain water again, but the wind failing, we pulled over to one of the islands and made fast to a fallen tree for the night. Then one of the crew proceeded to make some black coffee, and with some dried beef or tassejo, stewed in the iron pot, and some plantains and rum and water, we made a frugal supper, all sharing alike, then we lay down on the skins and tried to sleep, but sleep was impossible. The island, luckily, was uninhabited, even by beasts ; but from the distant shores rose the howls of the mon keys, the roar of the puma and panther, with the chatter and screams of thousands of birds. At last, all died away ; a deep and solemn silence succeeded, while, like a pall, rose on every side the white mists, heavy with malaria, until we could not see a foot beyond the boat.. For myself, I tossed and turned all the night. I felt was getting wet through, with the dew and mist, and there was no remedy but to bear it. At last, about 3 a.m., we again started, the crew using their oars and moving slowly along, till daybreak, then we stopped and had hot coffee, a most grateful refreshment to our damp and shivering bodies. I dosed my friends and myself with ten grains of quinine each, having taken the pre caution to bring a supply of that drug. After break fast, the crew again went to the oars, till about eleven VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I3g when a welcome breeze sprung up, and hoisting our sails, we ran before it. The breeze, at last, rose to quite a gale, and our cap tain, as usual, half-drunk, lost all control. The tiller slipped from his hands, or rather feet, for, half his time, he lay on his back and steered with his foot, the canoe broached to, and the gale, striking her on her side, fairly laid her down, w ater began to come in at the side, and I thought all was over, when the leg of mutton sail, which was old and rotten, suddenly burst in two, the canoe slowly righted, and we were saved. We all cursed the captain, who, after this, was thoroughly cowed, and did what he was told. It was a narrow escape. A little more, and we must have gone over, and that, in a place swarming with caymans and alligators; none of us, I fancy, would have survived to tell the tale. Afterwards, when talking of the escape, my friend remarked that as we had the title-deeds of a newly-purchased estate in our bags, it would have been a dreadful loss. I thought my own loss would have been much more dreadful to me. At 4 p.m., we ran into a sort of cove to repair damages. Here we found a colored settler and his family, and the captain did some trade in bananas and skins. Sailed on till nearly dark, then made fast to the shore for supper. Same as last night, as to noises, c&c, but at last, lying on the skins with an umbrella to try and keep off some of the falling dew, fell into a troubled sleep. I woke up suddenly hearing a sort of booming noise, and saw a pair of great eyes blazing very near my face, I jumped I40 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. up and heard a great splash, and then a crashing of bushes, as if some beast was landing. On examination, it turned out that we had had a visitor, but whether panther, or tiger cat, Or puma, no one could tell. No more sleep after this, so we started off, rowing as usual, then breakfast at daybreak. We hoped to reach Cindad Bolivar to-day, so kept on urging the captain to go ahead, but he had been so frightened by the last gale, that, as soon as the wind increased a little, he ran ashore) into a sheltered spot, nor could we induce him to move, until it had dropped to a very gentle zephyr. He was evidently determined to run no more risks. However, in the course of the morning, he managed to run us aground on a mud bank, and the crew had to jump overboard, and push us off again. I repeated the dose of quinine again this morn ing. We were now passing through one of the most beautiful parts of the river, on either side we saw large open glades, covered with the greenest vegetation, and dotted with magnificent trees, while in the distance, rose the forest deep and dark, here and there a tapir, like a small brown cow, was to be seen, quietly grazing ; birds of the most varied and beautiful plumage, stalked along, or perched on the drooping boughs ; here a crane, there a falcon, again a lot of ducks. Parrots, lories and cockatoos, screamed and chattered, while close to the water's edge, like great logs of wood, the caymans wallowed in the mud, or lay dozing with their upper jaw lifted, to catch the unwary insects entering their mouths. Wild turkeys and pheasants flew from tree to VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I4I tree, affording a good shot to the sportsman, but we did not attehipt to disturb them. If they fell, we could not get them, and it would have been but useless slaughter. During the evening of our second day, we passed several large tracts of forest-land on fire. This is a magnificent and terrible sight: the roar of the flames, the crash of the falling trees, followed by bursts of flame, many feet high, all terrify and confuse the behold ers. These fires are made by the Indians and settlers, with a view to increase their clearings, and are gener ally done at this time, so that the rains, which are now expected, may prevent their spreading too far, but this does not always happen, and sometimes very large tracts of forest have been burnt down, and very great injury has been done to mining property on several occasions, from this cause, a great part of the wood land on which they rely for fuel, having been burnt down, through the carelessness of the natives. The third morning came, and we started, as usual, wet and cold from the night's dews, and much disturbed by our unexpected visitor ; but this day the wind failed us. No steady breeze as before, but only occasional puffs, and as the river in this part winds very much, what wind there was, was as frequently against us as in our favour. At last, in the afternoon, we got in sight of Cindad Bolivar, although several miles away, and the captain decided upon stopping again for the night. But to this we decidedly objected, and appealed to the crew, offering double payment to 142 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. them, if they rowed us up to the city before night. They eagerly closed with our proposal, and set to work pulling with a will ; we had to keep the shore, as the current in the centre was running between five and six miles an hour ; with occasional pauses, and a slight refreshment of rum at intervals, they continued this work for hours, and at last about dusk, we reached the commencement of the city, which stretches along the river, but we could not land here, and were obliged to go on to the extreme end where alone country boats were permitted to touch the shore. Again our captain took the helm, and in his endeavours to steer a close course, plumped us on a rock. I thought we were all over. To be wrecked in sight of port,- by such a one-eyed imposter was too bad. It was only the sight of several caymans swimming about that prevented us from throwing him overboard. At last by lightening the canoe forward, and pushing with the oars, aided by the rapid current, she slowly slid off the rocks. Now came the question was she damaged under the water line, if so, we should have to swim for the shore, with small chance of reaching it. Hurrah, she is all sound and on we go, the crew pulling viciously, and the captain superseded at the helm by the mate. At last after another hour's hard work we reach the proper landing place, but hardly are we made fast, when we are boarded by a couple of soldiers and General Volveider is marched off a prisoner. After much negociation with an officer, my friend and I on proclaiming our nationality, are permitted to pass to our VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I43 hotel, but every thing in the boat is taken charge of, and we cannot even get our hand-bags out. I land on the stony beach, and in the dark, grope my way up to the principal street, where our hotel stands. Crack, ping ! I hear a shout in Spanish, and something whizzes by me. I push on ; the hotel is only a few yards off. Crack, ping ! again. I start running and soon get under shelter and up stairs to my old rooms, where our landlord welcomes me with many signs of joy. On my enquiry, as to the salute I was favored with, he informed me that for two days Cindad Bolivar had been panic stricken ; soldiers were posted in the streets, with orders to arrest all who were found about after 8 p.m., and that, no doubt, it was one of these gentry, who, finding I did not answer his call to stop, had fired at me, as they are all armed with Winchester repeating rifles, I congratulate myself on my lucky escape, greatly aided, I believe, by the man having aimed at me, as they are notoriously bad shots. We saw nothing more of the General that night, but next day he turned up at our agents, having been in confinement some hours, and eased himself considerably by abusing the military authorities all round, as a set of stupid blockheads. I learnt afterwards that reports had been brought to the authorities at Cindad Bolivar of a serious rising higher up the river, near San Fernando, and the Governor had seized all available transports, and shipped off the greater part of the troops, at his disposal, 144 VENEZUELA: ITS MINERAL WEALTH. to suppress it. Then a report came down that ther was no outbreak, and that the troops had been got away by a false pretence, to facilitate a rising in Cindad Bolivar, so the remaining soldiers were set to work to keep down any attempt at a gathering, and as our coming up the river had somehow become known before our arrival at Cindad Bolivar, probably by someone who saw us rowing up, General Volveider (who was a very distinguished officer in the late war)„ was supposed to be in some way connected with this outbreak, and so his arrest and detention was determined on. In reality, the General, as well as ourselves, was totally ignorant of the matter, he having come up at our earnest persuasion, as his presence and signature was absolutely necessary to complete the title to some property we had purchased for the Victory gold mine. For the first time, since my arrival in the country, I was laid up by a slight attack of fever. Exposure and excitement, combined with' the great heat, had at last told its tale ; however, it was necessary to complete our business, so I struggled on, and after some hours with our agents, lawyers, and the other parties con cerned, in which I was almost a lay figure, the business being mostly got through by my coadjutor, we got every thing satisfactorily settled. Our property and titles secured, and everything paid for, nothing now remained but to take care of myself for the one or two days before the steamer started for Trinidad. After a good day's, rest, my fever has gradually left me, and I saw to-day the return of the troops, who had been up the VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. I45 river, and also the shipment of the remainder of the machinery for the Victory mine, and its departure for Las Tablas. Our own boat starts for Trinidad to-morrow, Sunday afternoon, and our remaining time is occupied in settling bills, packing up, getting some curiosities, and obtaining passports, for, in this country, you must have one passport to come in, and another to go out." They are never looked at, or enquired after, when once you have got them, and the Government has pocketed the fees ; indeed, they are only a device for a little extra taxation. We have been greatly assisted in all these vexatious matters, by our agents, Messrs. Pietro, Battestini and Co., one of the largest firms in Cindad Bolivar, or indeed, in Venezuela. They are largely connected with the mining interest, having subsidiary stores all over the country, who draw all their supplies from the head centre in Cindad Bolivar, and orfe, if not more, of the partners in the house, hold large interests in the great El Callao Mine. I46 VENEZUELA : ITS MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER X. JJT last, all our work was done, and on Sunday, May 30th, at 2 p.m., we left Cindad Bolivar on our return to England, in hopes to catch the steamer at Trinidad. I was not fully aware how many friends I had in that very hot city until the final handshakings took place ; among them our friends the French explorers, still con fident that on the following Tuesday they would start up the river to penetrate its source. Since our arrival at Cmdad Bolivar the first time, the river has been steadily rising, and is now some 20 feet higher than when we first arrived. Its maximum height here is 80 feet, when much of the surrounding country is under water. Even now, as we proceed rapidly on our way, everything seems changed ; where, formerly, we passed large well-wooded islands, now, a few bush like tufts rise above the water. The river seems about four times as wide, and Oo Shippers of Best York Hams, Wiltshire Bacon, Cheese, Potted Meats, Pickles, and Jams of Best Quality. Wholesale Orders and Shipments executed with punctuality and dispatch. FOREIGN TRADE MADE A SPECIALITY. SHERWOOD & VERNEZ, 45, Ludgate Hill, London. Imkfr States dkltr ^Imn, LIMITED. CAPITAL £150,000 in £1 SHARES. NO EXPENSIVE MACHINERY REQUIRED. WATER POWER NEVER FAILS. First year's working-, it is believed, will pay for the whole Property. July 13th, 1886, Practical Test, 78 cents, per yard. LATEST REPORT: Property quite up to what has been stated, and ought to pay very well. People here are trying to buy up placer ground in every direction round us. This looks well. All applications for Shares should be made to 3, Broad Street Buildings, London, E.C. Or to your own Broker. BOILER EXPLOSIONS PREVENTED. »*. Enamelled Gauge Glasses Superseded, BY USING BARRY, JONES & CO.'S Patent Reflecting Gauge Glass Indicators. Mo, 12,01G. A.l>. 1885. The INDICATOE is made of Metal and Enamelled, is easily applied, does not require to be renewed, cannot be broken, and is practically indestructible. Especially valuable in dark and confined Stoke holes. Indicates height of water instantly at a glance, at any distance, and from any point of sight. Height of water shown as plainly at night as in the daylight. When the boiler is full the tube is colored throughout. Can be had from any respectable Ironmonger or Engineers' Factor, in any quantities, or from the Agents. 12-Inch Indicators, 12/- per doz. 18-Inch do. 15/- do. Terms— Cash. AGENTS FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM- J. B. TREASURE & Co., GAUGE GLASS MAKERS, 8, Vauxhall Road, LIVERPOOL. Caution. — It is intended to protect' this Patent to the utmost, and all parties are cautioned against infringing the same by the sale or manufacture of colourable imitations. A liberal reward will be paid by the Solicitors to the Agents, for information as to pirating this invention. A NECESSITY FOR DENTISTS. THE PORTABLE DENTAL SALIVA PUMP (FORSTER'S PATENT), Entirely supersedes the present cumbrous arrangements, and cisterns. Can be carried in the pocket. PRICE IN CASE 10/6. Sole Agents : — lessrs. Ash & Sons, JftamtfucutMrs nf all latitats' (Btroirs, 6, 7, 8, & 9, BROAD STREET, Golden Square, London. Every one should see 'The ROYAL IYSTERY' Otherwise called PROTEUS, OR Mysterious Disappearances. By this extraordinary illusion, persons stand ing on the stage are made to disappear suddenly, before the eyes of the astonished spectators, without veil or cover of any sort. Pronounced by the Press to be the most marvellous illusion ever produced. Agent for the Patentees : — HUGH DIDCOT, DRAMATIC AGENT, 68, WATERLOO ROAD, LONDON, To whom all applications for Engagements must be made. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 08576 8258