r v.f ^ Mm^^^-'''>'- '"'' -i ^-. J/' * , ^ "-T ^ r .^ ,, %,, *> BRITISH ART REFERENCE SXS 5"i' »•>> .^ its? ./^ Yale Center for British Art and British Studies rsss ^ # lUUSTRATFII filllllF # THE CITY OF SAUSBURY ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. :'::|i»'? SlALISBtrfeY: BBOWN & CO., CANAL. LONIIOKj SIMPKIK & CO. '-Mifi ' iWlpp*sii'»«' ' """"' I >iiiiiiii'i|i i.iiiir.;!'ii!i!»i,.l ii 1 .^^^^^ , ...^i f Retlvence Co \ Plan cf.Sa iishury. [R'.AgriculUd-al .Sor.-it^ t-t \Shx.v,- &rf>u7ui' 1.1 i ^Jrrhrrir:ir\' e£.Jn/Jj-p,:n,lanf.;TlMpcU i,\ tn.Bccn.ks. llJ 9 Tkree, SwanHetel \Mess '.^Srowns ' ^%ih-ioyl-Xea.do^Rt * n. S^TTwmas's CJncrch 12 Poultry Cross. 1.3 Ceimail IHncse. r-i-Pob.cc Steitimv yii Picd Lion.Ho'tel ™ -^(^Kol armed .Mcth/xlisisW^ \Clmpd V\ ^•. liaptwts Chdpel V% 18 Wdt&Jfartmtel 19 'Rc-num.Catlwlu- Clmi } PahTzstyid, iyj^own, fc C? SaliabuTy . Ba.ySSou.LitE' to The QjieeirL. BEOWN'S STEANGEE'S HANDBOOK AND ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO THE CITY OF SALISBURY; OR, Jitt Jimuiit, liatflmal and gwrriptitfc, OF THE OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN SALISBURY & ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. By J. B. MOORE, Esq. WITH THIRTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD, BY GEO. JIEASOM. this EDITION IS COPYKiaHT. SALISBURY ; BROWN & CO., NEW CANAL, LONDON : SIMPKIN & CO, 1857. SALISBURY ; JAME.9 BENNETT, PRINTER, JOURNAL OFFICE. TO THE PUBLIC. The following pages are offered as a Guide to the nume rous objects of varied attraction and interest with which Salisbury and its vicinity so remarkably abound. They contain notices of the Cathedral and City of Salisbury, Old Sarum, Stonehenge, Wilton House and the New Church, Longford Castle, Ivy Church, the Palace of Clarendon, &c. It has been sought to convey as much information on the subjects treated of as was compatible with the limited design of a work of this character. .I.E. M. INDEX. Amesbury ... Banking Establisliments Barracks ... Bemerton ... Bishop's Palace Borough Boundaries Bowles (Canon) House CATHEDRAL— Altar Piece Audley Chapel Bishop's Throne Chapter House Choh- Cloisters Dimensions of the Cathedral Lady Chapel ,,, Libraiy and Muniment Room Monuments — Choir Aisle Cloisters , , , Lady Chapel Morning Chapel NaveNorth Great Transept Nave ,,. Organ,., Pulpit Spire and Tower Transepts West Front ,,. Window — East. . Cemeteries . . . Channels closed Chapels Charities . , . Close „ Gate — High Street Corporation of Salisbury Council House Deanery Defensive Fosse De Vaux Place Drainage Duke of Buckingham Beheaded Earl of Salisbiu'y Field of the Tournament . , Fisherton Church Forest of Clarendon ... FriaryGeorge Inne Halle of John HaUe, . . Hamham — East, Church Bridge Harris's House Heale House Hotels Infirmary , , , Ivy Church.,, Joiners' Hall King's House Lake House Longford Castle Market Place Matrons' CoUege New Market House . Newspapers Ogbury Camp Old Cathedral Porch Old Sarum . , . Palace of Clarendon Places of Public Amusement , Post Office ,.. Poultry Cross Public Buildings Railroads . . . Sahsbury and Wiltshire Library and Reading Society Saracen's Head Schools Seats in the Neighbourhood St. Edmund's Church St. Martin's Church St. Nicholas' Hospital St. Osmund's Church St. Thomas's Church StonehengeStreets Tailors' Hall TheatreThe College The Cursus or Race Course Water Supply " White Hart " and " Kings' Arms " Hotels Wilton , , Church „ House Workhouse . . . Page 62 914235 115 74 89 134 71 38 115 130 57 74 114 84 93 137 7473 69 4977745288 145 8085 4186 78 106 44 726983 113 47 69 118 122 118 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. 1 Tlie Cathedral from the South 2 Chapter Seal 3 The Cathedral from the North-East 4 West Front of the Cathedral 5 The Nave of ditto 6 North Transept of ditto . . . 7 Lady Chapel of ditto 8 The Cloisters 9 Ground Plan of the Cathedral 10 Interior of the Chapter House 11 The Cathedral from the South West 12 Plan of the Monmnents in the Cathedral 13 Canon Bowles's House 14 Close Gate, High Street .., 15 „ Harnham 16 Market Place and Council House ... 17 Buckingham's Tomb in Britf ord Church 18 Proposed New Market House 19 The Poultry Cross 20 The Halle of John Halle , . , 21 High Street—" The Old George "... 22 St. John Street— "The White Hart " Hotel 23 St. Ann's Street 24 Mr. Wilton's House 25 St. Thomas's Church 26 St. Edmund's Church 27 Cathedral Porch in Mr. Wyndham's Garden 28 St. Martin's Church 29 East Harnham Church 30 Old Sarum 31 Stonehenge — General View 32 „ Near View 33 Wilton House 34 Wilton Church — Exterior 35 „ Interior, towards the Altar 36 „ Ditto 37 Longford Castle 38 Ivy Church Page 1 5 6 7 89 11 1415 1621253637 40 606457 60 6268697173788184859193 107109 118 122 124125 130136 STEANGEE'S HANDBOOK TO SALISBtmi. ,:;*%' ^' » KOETH-EAST VIEW. THE CATHEDRAL. On the first view of this noble pile, the eye of taste cannot fail to be struck with its prevailing characteristics — lightness, elegance, and grandeur, justly-proportioned parts, and a har monious whole. It is built in the form of a double or archi- episcopal cross, extending, in its extreme dimensions, from west to east 473 feet, and from north to south' — the length of the principal transept — 229 feet 7 inches ; while from the intersection of the grand cross springs "The lessening shaft of that aerial spu-e" — Canon Bo-wi.es. to the astonishing height of 400 feet from the ground. On approaching it from the east, the whole edifice is com manded at a glance : " buttress and buttress alternately," with THE OATHEDBAL — THE -WEST FEONT. 7 pointed windows, rising tier above tier ; transepts, porch, pediments, pinnacles, traceried tower, and airy spire, are embraced at one view, and fill the eye and mind as a varied yet homogeneous whole, producing the effect, if the expression may be allowed, of a multitudinous unity. On arriving at the West Front, the stranger will doubtless pause for awhile to examine it with some attention. It is divided longitudinally into five compartments. Four large buttresses, ornamented with statues, niches, &c., project from WEST TEOST. the elevation. In the central compartment between two of the buttresses is a portico, consisting of three arches, crowned with pediments. The middle arch, divided into two equal parts by a clustered column, opens into the nave by two doors, forming the principal entrance. Over this is a series of arches, exhibiting a row of sunk quatrefoils, and terminating in elegant pointed canopies. Next comes the grand western window, divided into three lights. In the upper division are two double 8 STEA-NSEE's handbook TO SALISBUKX. windows, and a bold acute pediment, surmounted by a cross, crowns this central compartment. To the right and left ot tne principal portico is another similar, but smaller one, opening down into the aisles. The square towers which flank this front are covered with columns, canopies, pedestals, and other details of Gothic tracery. The Na'Ve, which is lofty though somewhat narrow, is supported on each side by nine groups of clustered columns, from which spring ten pointed arches. Over these runs a triforium or gallery, open to the roofing of the aisles, presenting a succession of flat pointed arches, subdivided into four smaller ones ornamented with trefoils and quatrefoils alternately with cinquefoils and rosettes. The upper or clerestory consists of THB CATHEDRAL — THE OEQA». 9 triple lancet windows, very light and pleasing in their effect. The vaulting is plain, with arches and cross -springers only, rising from clustered shafts with foliated capitals, and resting on corbel heads. The windows of the aisles are double lights of the lancet shape. The Organ, which is considered to be a fine instrument, was built by Mr. Green, of Isleworth, who also built organs HOETH TBANSEPT. for Windsor, Canterbury, Lichfield, &c. The screen is chiefly composed of fragments of the Hungerford and Beauchamp Chapels, which formerly stood to the north and south sides respectively of the Lady Chapel, and were taken down by Mr. Wyatt in 1789. The organ, as the inscription on its west front records, was the gift of George the Third. The Transepts and Choir, like the nave, rise to an eleva- 10 stranger's handbook TO SALISBURT. tion of three stories. The transepts have but one aisle, on the east. Under the tower the cross-springers divide and form a sort of tracery. The visitor, while contemplating the four pillars and arches of the intersection, whence rise the tower and spire to the height of 400 feet above his head, will be struck with the quaint remark of Sir Christopher Wren, viz., that the superstructure " stands upon four pillars, like a table upon its four legs." And here we may remark, that a settlement has taken place of the western piers of the grand cross, owing, it is supposed, to the weight of the tower ; and on looking up we may observe the effect of the pressure of the superincum bent mass on some of the marble shafts. On entering The Choir the effect is decidedly grand and impressive. A subdued hght is reflected from the painted win dows, and the wood-work of the stalls is toned down to a hue of respectable antiquity. High up over the three arches, which form the termination of the Choir, properly so called, is a painted window of three lights, the subject the Ele vation of the Brazen Serpent in the Wilderness, which was presented to the Church by the Earl of Radnor in 1781. At the extreme east end of the Lady Chapel is a painted window which has recently been erected in commemoration of the late Dean Lear. It consists of five lights, in which are depicted, in very vivid colours, the principal events in the life of our Saviour. The subjects are executed in medal lions on a richly diapered ground, the prevailing colours being ruby and blue, and there is a variety of subsidiary tracery and imagery in the compartments of the centre lights. This window, which was first exhibited to the public in March, 1854, has replaced a painted window of the Resurrection by Eginton, of Birmingham, from a design by Sir J. Reynolds. In order to give effect to the painting, which was rather gaudy, the side windows were glazed with a kind of sombre mosaic, as they appear at present. This part of the Church was originally dedicated to the Virgin, and called the Lady Chapel. Tho Altar-piece consists of five niches, of curious workman ship, three of which are immediately over the communion-table, and one on each side. The communion-table is of stone, and composed of parts of an old altar-piece concealed by that erected in the time of Bishop Ward. The grand niche on the lady chapel. — the altar piece. 11 each side of the table was formed out of the ornaments taken from the entrances to the Beauchamp and Hungerford Chapels ; and the arms of the respective families remain on their tops, in their original form. The pavement, which was raised by Mr. Wyatt, to give an ascent from the Choir, is of black-and-white marble. Of the columns that support the roof, the four prin- lADY CHAEEI,. cipal ones do not measure more than nine or ten inches m diameter, though nearly thirty feet high ; the clustered columns are still more delicately light, and are now entirely freed from their former incumbrances. Under the windows, now restored to their original level, is a series of niches, the canopies of which are formed by a cornice of the Beauchamp Chapel, exhi biting foliage and fan-work tracery rising from corbel heads. 1? STEANGEE'S HANDBOOK TO SALISBUET. Terminating the Choir, on the north, is the elegant Chantry Chapel of Bishop Audley, who died in 1 524. The curious and ekborate tabernacle-work of this costly dormitory is charac teristic of the state of art that prevailed at that period, and is worthy of minute inspection. It was built by the prelate himself in the year 1520, and originally contained several images of the apostles and other saints, all now lost. It is the only perfect specimen of that species of monument now left in the Cathedral, and forms an imposing finish to this end of the Choir. Facing it, on the southern side, is another Chantry Chapel, founded by Walter, Lord Hungerford, about the year 1429, and chiefly composed of iron. It was removed from the nave (where it was originally erected) in 1778, by the Earl of Radnor, a descendant of the Hungerford family. Great taste has been employed in beautifying this piece of antiquity, par ticularly in the different coats of arms that adorn it, showing the chief alliances of the descendants of the founder. In its present situation it is used as a pew for the Radnor family, and forms an appropriate terminus to the south side of the Choir. Proceeding down the Choir, on the left is the Bishop's Throne, remarkable for the richness of its decorations : the upper part consists of three tiers of canopies, covered with ogee arches, pinnacles, crockets, &c., and the whole is termi nated with a crown and rich finial. Opposite is the pulpit, in which the same decorative style is observed. On either side are the prebendal stalls, the canopies of which, particularly the Dean's and Precentor's, are of the most ornamental style of the florid Gothic. On looking back towards the Lady Chapel, we observe that the east end of the Choir is terminated by three lofty arches, rising from clustered columns. Over these is the triforium or gallery, opening to the Choir by five arches ; and above these the window of three lights, already mentioned, representing the Israelites raising the Brazen Serpent in the Wilderness. Formerly the Choir was terminated by the High Altar, which was placed immediately before the Screen, which separated the Choir from the Lady Chapel. It is possible that, by Wyatt's arrangement, or rather dis-arrangement of this part of the building, some striking effects of perspective may have been produced ; but the impression on the whole is unsatisfactory. The vaulting of the Lady Chapel is not one- ,Jialf tbe height of that of the Choir. Having lingered thus long in the Choir, we dismiss the THE MUNIMENT EOOM. — THE LIBRARY. 13 visitor to wander through the aisles and transepts, and consign him to the Verger, who will afford him every desirable in formation. The Muniment Room — To the south of the smaller tran sept is the Vestry ; over the Vestry, and resembling it in size and shape, is the Muniment Room. It is an octagon, and can hardly be said to be lighted by some small apertures that seem intended rather to make "darkness visible" than to admit the day. The floor is laid with encaustic tiles, in pattern and arrangement exactly resembling the floor of the Chapter House. In the centre is a wooden column, from which ramify the stout rafters of the oaken roof, what Leland would call " a very strong thynge." Indeed, the whole place and everything in it wears the impress of strength and security. There are four presses, and two oblong chests ; the lids of the latter, suffi ciently immovable by their own weight, are further secured by several locks and massive staples. These chests and presses are the repositories of the valuable deeds and documents con nected with the property and early history of the Church. The Rev. Peter Hall (1834) represents them as lying about in a most neglected and disorderly state — " a feast for moths and spiders ;"^ — -but, we are informed, that the late Dean Lear cor rected this reprehensible state of things. The Vestry and Muniment Room, as we have been told, are indebted to that dignitary for their present neat and improved condition. We likewise learn that the records have all been inspected and arranged under the superintendence of Alfred Caswall, Esq. The Library was built by Bishop Jewell, and furnished with books by his successor. Bishop Gheast, and otter bene factors. Though not very large it contains many valuable works on Divinity and History. The manuscripts are about 130 in number. The most early is the Gregorian Liturgy, with an Anglo-Saxon version, extracts from which have been published by Mrs. Elstob. There is also an early copy of Geoffrey of Monmouth. In the Chapter records is a copy of Magna Charta, supposed to be the Contemporary transcript which was intrusted to the care of William Longspee, Earl of Salisbury, as one of the witnesses to the original deed. Leaving the Library, we descend to the Cloisters. The Cloisters, are now seen to great advantage, having been restored at a considerable expense by the late respected 14 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. diocesan (Denison). They form a square on the south side of the Church, and extend from the great transept to the West end. The open area, which is covered with grass of unfading verdure, is used as a burial-place for the Close. Two cedar-trees stand in the centre. The ambulatory — eighteen feet wide — consists of a quadrangular arcade, with a wall on one side and large open windows, between buttresses, on the other. Each window consists of four openings, divided by a THE CLOISTEES. clustered column in the centre and two single shafts. A fine view is obtained of the Cathedral from the south-west corner of the quadrangle. These Cloisters, in a late publication, are said to constitute "one of the finest ornamental inclosures in the kingdom."! Winkle's Cathedrals. THE CLOISTEES. 15 DIMENSIONS OE THE CLOISTEES. rrom out to out of the Walls Area inclosed Clear width to walk in ... Feet. 195140 18 The eastern side of the Cloister communicates with the Chapter House by a vestibule and double doorway, the arches of which spring from a clustered pillar with carved capital. AAA Nave and Aisles B North Transept and Aisle C South ditto ditto D Tower E Choir P Lady Chapel G Small North Transept and Aisle H Ditto South ditto ditto I Muniment Room J North Aisle of Choir K South ditto of ditto L Chapter House M Consistorial Court N North Porch eCDISTERS GBOtWD PLAN OP THE CATHEDEAL. .a^-i ^ > r * ' '-11 '¦7 INTEEIOE OE CHAFTEE HOUSE. THE CHAPTER HOUSE. This building is an octagon, supported in the centre by one small pillar, whence spring the groins of the ceiling ; a deep stone plinth surrounds the interior, and at the east end, opposite the entrance, is a raised seat, the back of which is divided into seven compartments, intended for the Bishop, or Dean, and six principal dignitaries. The other niches, forty-two in number, were appropriated to the Prebendaries ; and two seats, one on each side of the entrance, were for the Chancellor and Treasurer. The apartment is lighted by eight windows, opening between so many buttresses. These windows are THE CHAPrER HOUSE. 17 divided by three mullions into four lights, and the heads are ornamented with open quatrefoils and rosettes. Between the bases of the windows and the seats an arcade is carried round the lower part of the walls. In the spandrils of this arcade is a remarkable series of sculptures, in high relief, representing portions of scripture history from the Creation to the overthrow of Pharaoh and the Egyptian host in the Red Sea. The sculptures on the left were wantonly defaced by the Crom- wellian Commissioners, who held their sittings in this building during the great rebellion ; when, as Britton with just indignation remarks, " These vulgar and brutal fanatics thought it meritorious to annihilate or mutilate every object of art and taste." They are now completely and accurately restored, and we have much pleasure in being enabled, through the kindness of a friend, to present the reader with a correct list of the whole series. LIST OF THE SCULPTURE. ¦\Vest Bay. 1. Description of Chaos. ¦2. Creation of the Firmament. North-west Bat. 3. Creation of the Earth. 4. Creation of the Sun and Moon. 5. Creation of the Birds and Fishes. 6. Creation of Adam and Eve. 7. The Sabbath. 8. The institution of Marriage. 9. The Temptation. 10. The liiding in tlie garden. North Bay. 1 1. The Expulsion. 12. Adam tilling the ground. 13. Cain aud Abel's offering. 14. Murder of Abel. 15. God sentencing Cain. 16. God commanding Noali to build tlie 17. The ark. 18. Noah's vineyard. North-east Bay. 19. The drunkenness of Noah. 20. Building of the tower of Babel. 21. The angel appearing to Abraham. 22. Abraham entertaining angels. 23. Destruction of Sodom fc Gomorrah. 24. Tlie escape ot Lot. 25. Abraham and Isaac journeying to the Mount. 26. The Sacrifice of Isaac. Bast Bay. 27. Isaac blessing Jacob. 28. Blessing of Esau. 29. Rebecca sending Jacob to Padan- aram. 30. Meeting of Jacob and Rachael. 31. Rachael introducing Jacob to Laban. 32. Jacob wresthng with the Angel, and Jacob's dream. 33. The angel touching Jacob's thigh. 34. Meeting ot Jacob and Esau. South-east Bay. 35. Joseph's dream. 36. Joseph relating his dream. 37. Joseph being placed in the well. 38. Joseph sold into Egypt. 39. Joseph's coat brouglit to Jacob. 40. Joseph brought to J?otiphar. 41. Joseph tempiied by Potiphar's wife 42. Joseph accused before Potipliar. SoDTH Bay. 43. Joseph placed in prison. 44. The fate of Pharaoh's baker and butler. 45. Pharaoh's dream. 46. Pharaoh's perplexity. 47. Joseph taken from prison, and interpreting the dream. 48. Joseph ruling in Egypt. 49. The brethren joumeyinginto Egypt 50. The cup placed in Benjamin's sack 18 STEANGEB's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY, 55. Joseph assuring his brethren of his South-west Bat. 51. The discovery of the cup. 52. The brethren pleadin^bef ore Joseph 53. Jacob and family journeying to Egypt. 54. The brethren pleading before Joseph after the death of Jacob. protection. . n„A 56. Moses in the P«?fn?? °* ^f " 57 The Passage of the Red bea, 58. Destruction of the Egyptians. "West Bat. 59. Moses striking the rock. 60. The declaring of the law. In contemplating the successive groups, the visitor will not fail to be struck with the richness and diversity ot the to'-atel capitals of the shafts that divide the niches, and the wondertul variety of expression in the heads above them, exhibiting almost every phase of character, from the Demoniac to the Angelic For a long period the Chapter House was in a dilapidated and even dangerous condition. The buttresses were more or less disturbed, portions of the walls were ' fractured, and the central pillar was about five inches out of the per pendicular. The Norman tiles, said to have been brought from the Cathedral of Old Sarum, with which the Chapter House was paved, were in parts destroyed, and_ in others broken up and scattered about in frngments ; and indeed the whole interior wore a neglected and ruinous appearance. It was matter of notoriety that the late Bishop Denison, who, as we have seen, expended considerable sums on the Cloisters, had also conceived the design of repairing the Chapter House. Accordingly, at his lamented death, the restoration was resolved on as an appropriate memorial of the departed Prelate. Subscriptions were immediately commenced, and the work was so far advanced, that on July 30, 1856, the opening of the Chapter House, now partially restored, was inaugurated by a solemn service. The restoration of the Chapter House is now happily in pro gress, under the able superintendence of Mr. Glutton, architect, and promises, when completed, to present a faithful reproduc tion of the splendours of Mediseval art. An encaustic pavement has been laid down by Minton, in strict accordance with the colours, patterns, and devices of the Norman tiles with which the floor was formerly paved. The central column of Purbeck marble (now restored to the perpendicular) with its delicate clustering shafts, has been polished up to a lustrous glo.ss, and the light vaulted roof is garlanded, as it were, with an elegant wreath of painted foliage (an exact revival of the THE CHAPTER HOUSE. 19 original colouring) with gilded tufts at the intersection of the ribs. The sculptures, where mutilated or decayed, have been accurately restored by Mr. J. B. Philip, in Caen stone, and Mr. O. Hudson has favoured us with a most admirable specimen of decorative painting in the revived polychrome of two of the bays. The walls of the arcade are diapered in rich and harmonious colours, and profusely embellished with fieurs de lis, birds, and various devices similar to those in the pavement. The marble shafts dividing the niches are polished to a "silvery lustre,"i and the gilded foliage of their capitals shines out with a most splendid effect. The arch-mouldings of the canopies re-appear in their primitive hues, and the judicious application of colours and gilding to the sculptures has been attended with the happy effect, if we mistake not, of rendering the grouping more distinct, and imparting additional animation and expression to the figures of the frieze. The beauty of the whole is enhanced by the new window, very light and elegant in character, which has been presented to the Chapter House by Wingfield Digby, Esq." It is glazed with richly diapered glass, the quatrefoils and rosette in the head being relieved by some figures in brilliant colours. One can now easily anticipate the effect that will be produced when the other bays are similarly decorated ; — when the eight large and lofty windows are filled with stained glass, and this gorgeous apartment is illumined by the ever-varying lights of the shifting sunbeams. We recommend the visitor, before leaving, to linger for a moment in the vestibule, as we would direct his attention to a remarkable series of sculptures, on the archivolt over the doorway leading into the Chapter House. They are fourteen in number, and are supposed to be allegorical representations of the various virtues, vices, and passions. Professor Cockerell ' The Dean's expression in his address to the Corporation. 2 "We understand that two other windows are in preparation one, the Ladies' Window ; the other, the Prebendaries' Window. We learn more over, that " the works which have been executed have entailed an outlay of £4,821 10s. lOd., and as the amount of subscriptions received to July 12, 1856, was £4,586 14s. 5d., the expenditure has exceeded the receipts by dE234i 16s. 5d. It ia estimated that the works yet to be executed will re quire a further outlay of nearly £3,000. On the 15th of August, the Cathedral was visited by Her jVIajesty the Queen, who has since kindly sent a donation of £100 towards the restoration." — The Sarum Almanack and Diocesan Kalendarfor 1857. C2 20 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. recognizes in the first two figures, Hope and Despair ; m the next two, Pity, or Hospitality, and Treachery; Pity has thrown part of a cloak over Treachery, who is in the act of running a sword into the side of the former. This, it is thought, may probably have suggested the image in Chaucer — Smite her with knife beneath the cloak, — The next figures are said to be Justice and Punishment; then. Truth extracting lies from Scandal ; and the last two that could at the time (1849) be deciphered with auy degree of probability were supposed to represent Piety and Sensuahty. In reference to these Sculptures Professor Cockerell remarks : — " Their design is exquisite, equal indeed to the great works of Flaxman and Stothard ; and they resemble the works of the gates of Florence which are posterior in date." Indeed it is difiScult to persuade ourselves that, in these figures so elegant in contour and so ideal in character, we are contemplating the work of a Gothic artist of the thirteenth century. DIMEU"SI0NS OE THE OHAPTBK-HOUSE. Feet. Out to out of the walls, diameter. . . ... ... ... 78 In the clear withiuside ... ... 58 Height of the vaulted ceiling ... , , , ... ... 52 THE SPIRE. The erection of the tower and spire is supposed to have taken place in the early part of Edward the Third's reign. In 1331, that monarch, by a grant dated at Sherborne, allowed the Dean and Chapter to remove the walls of Osmund's Cathe dral, and of the episcopal and canonical residences at Old Sarum to the New City, " for the improvement of the Church of New Sarum and the Close thereunto belonging." The tower and spire and the embattled walls of the Close are believed to have been built of these materials. We would refer the curious reader to Price's more detailed account of the interior mechanism of this extraordinary structure ; we must content ourselves with a summary. The tower consists of three divisions. The first is the original finish, terminating with an embattled moulding a few feet above the roof. The THE SPIRE AND TOWER OF THE CATHEDRAL. 21 second may be regarded as the beginning of the second archi tect's work, or the foundation for the proposed superstructure ; its walls are six feet thick. But, as if the weight of the addi tional mass had already produced alarming effects, the third story of the tower is reduced to a hollow, light kind of work, consisting of pilasters and recesses, and very inferior in strength and weight to the second. In each angle of the tower is a staircase leading to the top, which is called the Eight Doors, there being two doors at each side. SOUTH-WEST TIEW. The spire is an octagon, four of the .sides of wliich stand upon the walls of the tower, the other four sides resting on arches thrown across the four angles of the tower. These arches have no abutment except what results from the ban dages of iron worked into the walls of the tower. The stones of which these arches are composed are cramped together with iron. The walls of the tower are five feet thick where the 22 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. spire begins, two feet being employed in the foundation of the spire (if it may be so called), two feet for a passage from the stairca,ses into the spire, and the other foot is taken up by the parapet wall. The walls of the spire are two feet thick at the bottom, continue of that thickness to the height of twenty feet, and are thence only nine inches thick to the summit. The architect has contrived a timber frame in the centre of the spire, which served as a scaffold during the progress of the work ; and when the whole was finished, it was suspended from the capstone of the spire by means of the iron bar which bears the vane, thus adding an artificial strength to the shell of stone, without a proportionate increase of weight. By this frame you ascend by ladders to the weather door (about thirty feet from the extreme top), whence you cHmb up the remaining part of the spire on the outside by iron handles, yoted into the walls, and covered with lead, to prevent their contracting rust. The whole surface of the tower is profusely decorated with pilasters, columns, arches, pediments, &c., and three bands of ornamental tracery. At the angles of the tower stand octagonal turrets, with embattled bases, and small crocketed spires. Behind them are four highly-elaborated members, rising in pinnacles, and richly charged with knobs, crockets, and finials.. These, with the four decorated doorways, crowned with taber nacles, charm the eye, and insensibly blend the square tower with the octagonal form of the spire. The spire is divided into four nearly equal parts by three fillets of lozenge-work resembling that at the west end ; and has ribs at each angle enriched with two rows of knobs. With regard to the height of the spire, it has been stated in some accounts to be as much as 410 feet. Colonel John Wyndham made an experiment with a barometer in 1684, by which he ascertained the highest point to be exactly 404 feet from the ground. It is now generally computed at about 400 feet. In addition to what we have already stated relative to the declination of the spire from the perpendicular, we have to remark that this declination is not in a direct line, or in all parts alike. At the top of the parapet of the tower the decli nation is 9^ inches to the south, and 3§ to the west ; at the weather door it is 20 inches south, and 12i west ; and at the capstone of the spire 24| south, and 16| west. Hence it appears that the declension is greatest nearest the top. We shall conclude our account of the Cathedral with a brief THE DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL. 23 general notice. It consists of a nave, choir, and Lady Chapel, each with side aisles, and of two transepts, each with one lateral aisle towards the east. From the intersection of the greater transept with the nave rise the tower and spire. On the north is a lofty porch : the cloisters, chapter house, and muniment room lie to the south. The walls and buttresses are composed of Chilmark stone, brought from a village of that name, twelve miles distant. The pillars and shafts are of Purbeck marble. Fine parapet walls surround the whole building ; and the quantity of timber in the several roofs, according to a computation laid before the Lords of the Trea sury in 1737, amounts to 2641 tons of oak. Alicia, heiress of the powerful family of Brewer, granted all the stone required for this church during twelve years. Elias de. Derham, the friend of Bishop Poore, is commemorated as the superintendent or architect for twenty five years, and Robert is named as chief mason or builder for the same period. This beautiful and majestic edifice is reputed to be the purest and most perfect specimen of the early English or pointed style to be found, not only in this country, but, perhaps, in Europe. From the uni formity and elegance of its design, and the simplicity and grandeur of its style, Salisbury Cathedral may be characterised as the Parthenon of Gothic Akchitecture. DIMENSIONS OF THB CATHEDEAL. nrsiDB. Ft. In. Length of the Nave 229ft. 6in., Choir 151ft., Lady Chapel ) , , . ^^ o 68ft. 6in. ... ... 5 ' Principal Transept ... Eastern Transept Widths of tho Nave and Choir from pillar to pillar Aisles from pillar to wall ... Principal Transept ... Its aisle Eastern Transept Its aisle Height of the Vaulting of the Nave, Choir, and Transepts Aisles and Lady Chapel OUTSIDE. Extreme length Principal Transept Eastern Transept Width of the West Front 203 10 143 0 34 3 17 6 34 10 15 6 24 10 14 0 81 0 39 9 473 0 229 7 170 0 111 4 24 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. Width of the Nave and Aisles Principal Transept with its aisle . . . ' Eastern Transept ... ... ... Height from the pavement to the top of the Spire To the top of the parapet wall of the Nave Aisles Roof WestFront The admeasurement round the exterior is 880 yards, or half a mile. Height of St. Peter's at Home St. Paul's, London The Monument, London. Ft. In. 99 4 81 4 65 0 400 0 87 0 44 0 115 0 180 lile. 0 437 0 370 0 202 0 THE MONUMENTS IN THE CATHEDEAL. We commence our tour of the Monuments from the grand entrance at the West end, and the first which occurs on the plinth between the pillar on the right hand or South side is : — 1. A flat coflin-shaped stone of Purbeck marble, of which mention has already been made as probably the oldest monu ment in the Church. It is conjectured to have been brought from Old Sarum with the bones of Bishop Herman, who died in 1078. 2. The next in order on the same side is the monumental effigy of a Bishop, in pontificalibus, with a crosier, piercing a dragon, and surrounded with a border of birds and foliage. This stone is said to have been brought from Old Sarum, with the body of Bishop Joceline, in 122(3. He died in 1184. 3. At the feet of the above is a slab of blue speckled marble, which has been the subject of much discussion. Messrs. Hatcher and Duke attribute it to Joceline ; while Messrs. Britton and Gough assign it to the famous Bishop Roger, who died in 1139. Down the front ofthe robe are the words " Affer opem devenies in idem." All round the sides of the stone vertically are letters described by Mr. Gough as a mixture of Saxon and Roman characters. The following is the inscription : — " Flent hodie Salesberie quia deoidit ensis Justitie, pater eeclesie SaUsbiriensis : Dum yiguit, miseros aluit, fastusque potentum Non tunuit, sed clava fuit terrorque nocentum De Ducibus, de nobilibus primordia duxit Prineipibu."!, propeque tibi qui gemma reluxit." PLAN OF THK MONUMENTS IN THE CATHEDRAL. 25 The numbers correspond with those prefixed to the descriptions. 26 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. 4. This tomb contains the remains of some one unknown. 5. The first tomb that occurs after the interruption ot the plinth, is an altar tomb containing the remains ot Bishop Beauchamp, which were removed from his Chantry Chapel by Wyatt, in 1789. It seems that the Bishop's own tomb was destroyed or "mislaid" (!) during the ceremony of "transla tion." Beauchamp has been called the Wickham of his age. He died in 1481, and for upwards of 300 years lay in the middle of his own beautiful and costly dormitory, with his father and mother on either side of him, "in marble tumbes (Leland). 6. Is a tomb composed of portions of the Hungerford Chapel. The effigy, which is of alabaster, represents Robert, Lord Hungerford, clad in mail armour, with a collar of SS. round his neck. This nionument formerly stood between the Lady Chapel and the Hungerford Chapel, which latter was founded by this nobleman's widow, Margaret, daughter and heiress of Lord Botreaux. Eobert Lord Hungerford served in France under the Eegent Duke of Bedford, and died in 1459. By his will he directed his body to be buried in Salisbury Cathedral, before the Altar of St. Osmund. 7. In the adjacent tomb are three large apertures on each side : these represent the six sources of the Stour ; being part of the armorial bearings of Lord Stourton, who was hanged by a silken cord in the Market-place of Salisbury, for murder, in the reign of Queen Mary. 8. Is the mutilated effigy of Bishop De la Wyle, who founded the Collegiate Church of St. Edmund in this city, and died 1270. 9. The last on the south side is the tomb of William Longspee, first Earl of Salisbury of that name, natural son of King Henry the Second, by fair Eosamond. This monument was formerly richly painted, diapered, and gilt, and still retains marks of the original colouring. The effigy is of gray marble, in mail armour, a long sword by the side, and upon an antique shield embossed six lions, or leopards, 3, 2, and 1. The same bearing was also painted upon the surcoat. This tomb formerly stood on the north side of the Lady Chapel, and was removed to its present situation by Mr. Wyatt. 10. Crossing over to the north side of the nave is the alabaster effigy of Sir John Cheyney. As a work of art of the period when it was executed, it is very beautiful, and monuments in the cathedral. 27 deserves the particular notice of those who take an interest in militarj' costume. Sir John Cheyney fought at Bosworth field. His tomb was destroyed in the general demolition of the Beauchamp Chapel in 1789. His skeleton was found entire, and justified the fame of his extraordinary strength and stature. The thigh bone measured above twenty-one inches, or near four inches longer than the usual standard. His remains are deposited in the present tomb. 1 1 and 12. Are two brassle.ss tombs joined together, on which were formerly the effigies, in brass, of Walter Lord Hungerford, father to Eobert above mentioned, and of his first wife, Catherine Peverel. Their remains, together with the Iron Chantry Chapel erected over them, were removed by their descendant, the Earl of Eadnor, in 1779, and placed at the soutli end of the Choir, as already related at page 18. A brass plate hard by records the removal and the date, Jacob C. Eadnor, Anno 1779. 13. Is a mean altar-shaped tomb, covered by a slab, inscribed with the date anno mxcix. This nameless, fractured stone is all that is left in the Cathedral of Salisbury to attest the existence and honour the memory of Salisbury's tutelary Saint, — of " the blessed Osmund," Saint, Soldier, Bishop, Chancellor, twice an Earl, Nephew of William the Conqueror, founder of the Church of Sarum, &c., &c., &c. Osmond's tomb formerly stood in the centre of the Lady Chapel. At the time of Mr. Wyatt's alterations (1789-90, &c.) it was removed — this slab was lifted, and under it was found — nothing ! Without, can only strangers breathe The name of him who was beneath ; Dust long outlasts the storied stone. But than — thy very dust is gone ! — Syron. 14. Is the monument of Sir John de Montacute, younger son of William, first Earl of Salisbury of that family. The effigy is that of a knight, in mail and chain armour, the head resting on a helmet, and a lion at the feet. On the side of the tomb, in quatrefoil panels, are shields of arms, two of them exhibiting the arms of Montacute impaling the spread eagle of 'Monthermer, the heiress of which family he married. Sir Jolin de Montacute fought at Cressy, and died February 25, 1389. 15 and 16. These are tombs of some persons unknown. 28 stranger's handbook to salisburt. 17. Next to these unappropriated Tombs is the effigy of a warrior, mailed from head to foot, with a surcoat, long shield, his hand on the hilt of a broad sword, a lion at his feet, and his legs crossed after the fashion of the effigies in the Eound of the Temple Church, in London. This figure is supposed to represent William Longspee, son of the Earl of Sahsbury of that name. He was one of the most celebrated of the Crusaders under Saint Louis, was slain fighting near Cairo, in 1250, and was buried in the Church of Holy Cross, at Acre. This characteristic memorial is said to have been erected by his mother, Ela, Abbess of Lacock. For a full and most interesting account of this hero the reader is referred to Bowles' History of Lacock Abbey. 18. At the head of the above is the curious and unique monument of the Boy Bishop. It long lay buried under the seats near the pulpit ; on the removal of which, about the year 1680, it was discovered and transferred to its present situation. It was at first covered with a wooden box, which, precluding the gratification of the popular curiosity, was soon destroyed, and an iron grating substituted. The history of this miniature image of episcopacy is briefly this : — Upon St. Nicholas' Day (December 6) the boys of the Choir elected from among themselves a Bishop, hence called the Boy or Choral Bishop. From the day of his election to that of the Holy Innocents (December 28) he bore the name and style of a Bishop, while the other Choristers played the part of Prebendaries. On the eve of Innocents' Day they attended the Cathedral in great state. The spectacle drew such immense crowds together, that it was found necessary to denounce the penalty of the greater excommunication against those who should interrupt or press upon the children in their proces,sion, or in any part of their service. They entered by the west door, and in due pro cessional pomp advanced to the Choir, the Dean and Canons first, the Chaplains next, and in the last and highest place the Boy Bishop, with pastoral staff and mitre, (the latter often very splendid,) and surrounded by his little band of mimic dignitaries. In this state they proceeded up the Nave, the Bishop and his companions chanting in alternate verse. Arrived at the Altar of the Holy Trinity the Bishop took his seat, and the rest _ of the boys arranged themselves on each side of the Choir on the highest benches, the resident Canons bearing the incense, and the minor Canons the tapers. The service M0NU5IENTS IN THE CATHEDRAL. 29 then commenced, " according to the use of Sarum." The collect still retained in the reformed church " 0 Almighty God, who, out of the mouths of babes and sucklings, hast ordained strength," &c., formed part of the service, and indeed may be considered as the moral of this curious religious pageant. In case the Boy Bishop died within the month of his *' little brief authority" (naturally a very rare occurrence), his obsequies were celebrated with great pomp, and he was buried, like real prelates, in his pontifical garments. Hence the origin of this remarkable monument. This curious custom was not confined to Salisbury ; it was observed in the colleges of Winchester and Eton. Warton says that the Eton Montem originated in this ancient and popular practice. The ceremony of the Boy Bishop was forbidden, by royal proclamation, in 1542, by Henry VIIL, revived during the short reign of his daughter Mary, and on the accession of Elizabeth, finally abolished. 19. The last tomb on the same side, between the pillars, evidently a very ancient oue, is that of some person unknown. 20. A monument of black marble, to the memory of Dr. Daubigny Turburville, an eminent oculist of Salisbury, con temporary with Bishop Seth Ward. He died April 21, 1696, in his eighty-fifth year. The North Great Transept. — On the west wall are the following monuments : — 27. A handsome monument, by Bacon, to James Harris, Esq., author of Hermes, &c. — Moral Philosophy is represented mourning over a medallion head of the deceased. Mr. Harris died 22nd December, 1780, in his seventy- second year. Adjoining is 28. The monument of his son, James, first Earl of Malmes- bury. It is the work of Chantry, and exhibits a full-length figure of the Earl in a half-recumbent position, the left hand resting on an open book, and his countenance fixed on high, with an expression of serene composure. A long inscription records the distinguished diplomatic career of deceased, and informs us in conclusion that this monument is erected in his native city by his most afiectionate sister, the Hon. Katherine Gertrude Eobinson. He was born April 9th, O. S. 1746, and died 21st Nov., 1820, aged 74 years. The next monument is 29. To the memory of William Benson Earle, Esq., of the Close, who appears to have been a gentleman of cultivated 30 stranger's handbook to SALISBURY. mind and benevolent disposition. He left a bequest of 2000 guineas to the Widows' College, in the Close, besides various other legacies for charitable purposes. The monument is by Flaxman. 30. A stone slab, by Osmond, with an inscription in Gothic characters, with illuminated capitals, to the memory of the Eev. Edmund Benson, Anne Hunt, his wife, and six of their children.! Against the north wall of this transept is 33. The mutilated effigy of a Bishop, under a canopy. It is the monument of Bishop Blythe, who died in 1499, and formerly stood at the back of the high altar in the Lady Chapel — whence it was removed by Wyatt. 34. A marble monument of the late Sir Eichard Colt Honre. The deceased Baronet is represented as seated in his favourite chair, with an open book on his knees, in the act of writing. Underneath the chair is a portfolio and a scroll of paper, and at his feet is a second scroll, on which are faintly traced the outlines of antique urns, in imitation of drawings. The adoption of a loose morning gown as the upper garment has enabled the artist to throw his drapery into free and graceful folds without interfering with the contour of the figure. A placid composure reigns in the countenance, and the likeness is strikingly accu rate. The inscription, which records Sir Eichard's historical and antiquarian pursuits, informs us that the statue was raised by his brother, Sir Henry Hugh Hoare, Bart. In justice to native talent, we should not forget to remark, that this e.xqui' site work of art is the production of Mr. E. C. Lucas, formerly of this city. At the end of the aisle is 35. An elegant monument, by Flaxman, to the memory of WaUer Long, Esq., a native of this city, who was a bencher of the Society of Lincoln's Inn, and Senior Judge ofthe Sheriff's Court, London. In the centre is a medallion portrait of deceased, and in niches at the extremities are two figures representing Justice and Literature. 'One of his sons, here commemorated, was Eobert Benson, Esq., Inte Eecorder of this City. He was, conjointly with Mr. Hatcher, author of tlie History ol Salisbury, in Sir R. C. Hoare's "Modern Wiltshire." He also wrote a work on Corsica, which attracted tho favourable notice of Sir Walter Scott, who, in his "Life of Napoleon," frequently refers to Benson's " Sketches of Corsica." MONUMENTS IN THE CATHEDRAL. 31 37. Another monument, by Flaxman, to the memory of William Long, Esq., Surgeon of Bartholomew Hospital for 33 years, and formerly Master of the Eoyal College of Surgeons, London. He was brother of Walter Long, before mentioned, and died in 1818. The figures at the sides represent Science and Benevolence, and the architectural part is in the style of the fiorid Gothic. Leaving the Transept, we enter the North Choir Aisle. On the north side of this aisle, and partly in the aisle of the principal transept, is 45. A large altar tomb, surmounted by a canopy : it is covered with panels and tracery, and had formerly a figure in brass, armorial bearings in brass, and a brass plate round the edge, all of which have long since disappeared. It is assigned to Bishop Woodville, who died in 1484. 46. Under the closets is the figure of a skeleton, said to be the effigy of one Fox, who is said to have tried to fast 40 days in imitation of our Saviour. 47. On the south side of this aisle, in a recess, is an ema ciated figure reclining on an altar tomb, to the memory of Dr. Bennet, Precentor of this Church from 1541 to 1558, of whom a similar story is related. We give these vulgar stories as we find them, though we think they originate in a misconception of the moral intended to be conveyed by these figures. 48. On the north wall is the monument generally ascribed to Bishop Bingham (Poore's successor), who died Nov. 3, 1246. 49. Adjoining is the marble monument of James, Earl of Castlehaven, who died May 6, 1769. Near it are interred the late Earl and Countess, without any sepulchral memorial. The visitor will not fail to enter the Audley Chapel, and observe the still vivid colours and elegant fan tracery of the interior. We now enter the north stem of the East Transept, other wise The Morning Chapel. The visitor will observe the ambries and piscinas in the walls north and south, indicating the former site of two altars ; also an ancient lavatory, which originally stood near the Vestry. 50, 51, 52, and 53. Near are the three gravestones of Bishops Wyvill, Gheast, and Jewell, removed out of the Choir when it was paved with marble, 1684 ; also the monument of Bishop Poore, the founder of the Church, an effigy, in Purbeck marble, of a bishop in pontificalibus, which formerly lay under 32 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. a canopy on the north side ofthe High Altar, whence it was removed by Mr. Wyatt, in 1789. 54. On the ground of the Morning Chapel is a remarkable brass to the memory of Bishop Wyvill, who recovered the Castle of Sherborne, which had been lost to the See ot Sarum for a period of 200 years, ever since King Stephen wrested it from Bishop Eoger. Bishop Wyvill died at Sherborne Castle A.D. 1375. Immediatelyadjoining is another brass plate, with the figure of Bishop Gheast, Jewel's successor, and an inscrip tion informing us that he left a large library of valuable books for the use of the Church. The date of his death, as given in the inscription, is erroneous — as Cassan, part 2, p. 67, proves — for 1578 it ought to be 1576. Crossing the North Choir Aisle, and proceeding down the Choir towards the east, we enter The Lady Chapel. 55. In the north wall, under an arched niche, is a coffin- shaped tomb, with a cross-fleury in relief, ascribed to Bishop Eoger de Mortival, who died in 1329. 56. At the extreme east end of the north aisle is the Gorges Monument. It is a large tomb or herse of Purbeck stone, having four twisted Corinthian pillars and pilasters supporting an entablature adorned with pediments, obehsks, globes, armil- laiy .spheres, &c., and having the four cardinal virtues at the corners. Under the canopy are the effigies of Sir Thomas Gorges, Knight, of Longford Castle, who died March 30, 1610, aged 74, and of his widow Helena Snachenberg. 57. At the east end of the south aisle, is the splendid monu ment of Edward, Earl of Hertford, son of the Protector Somerset, uncle of Edward VI., who died April 6, 1621, in his 83rd year ; and of his wife Catharine, the sister of Lady Jane Grey, who died Jan. 22, 1563. Here are also interred John, Duke of Somerset, who died June, 1675, and the Lady Elizabeth Seymour, wife of Charles, Duke of Somerset, who died in December, 1722. She was the daughter and heiress of Joceline Percy, eleventh and last Earl of Northumberland. The Earl of Hertford is represented in armour, and his lady in her robes, both praying ; and at their head and feet respec tively is a figure in armour, kneeling, under four Corinthian marble pillars. This monument, which is composed of various kinds of marble, is gilt, and painted and profusely decorated with military trophies, armorial bearings, four allegorical statues, columns, arches, crests, supporters, &c. It was re- MONUMENTS IN THE CATHEDRAL. 33 paired and embellished some years ago by the late Duke of Nor thumberlan d. 58. Near this monument is an altar tomb, partly let into the south wall, by Leland and others incorrectly assigned to Bishop Wickhampton, but now appropriated to William Wilton, who was Chancellor of Sarum, 1506-23. On the cornice are three shields : — 1. The device of Henry VIII. and Catherine of Aragon, a rose and pomegranate. 2. The arms of Bp. Audley (Wilton's patron), who died 1524. 3. Abingdon Abbey, per haps the place of his education. On other shields is the rebus, WI L on a label, and a barrel for T U N. Wilton was Custos of St. Nicholas Hospital in 1510.^ 61. Is generally ascribed to William of York, who died 1267, though, as Britton remarks, the style of the arch indicates a later age. 62. On the same side, next in order, and close by the Choir door, is a handsome white marble monument with a globe and mathematical instruments carved on it, to the memory of John Clarke, s.t.p.. Dean of this Cathedral, who died in Feb., 1757, aged 75. The inscription i-ecords that he was united to Samuel Clarke by relationship, and by friendship to Newton, and lived very dear to both. 63. In the South Stem of the East Transept, on your right hand (east), is the remarkable monument of Giles de Bridport, during whose prelacy the Cathedral was finished and dedicated by Archbishop Boniface (see page 8). At the feet of the statue are a piscina and ambry, indicating that a chantry chapel was originally attached to this very curious and inte resting monument. The Cloisters. — In the centre of the Green, near the two cedars, are two flat stones with the following inscriptions : — Edward Denison, D.D., Bishop of Salisbury, born May 13, 1801 ; died March 6, 1854. Louisa Mary Denison, born January 26, 1812 ; died Sept. 22, 1841, For a more detailed account of the Cathedral and Monu ments, see the " Guide to the Cathedral," also published by the Messrs. Brown.' Wilts Archseological Mac;. Vol. I., page 165. D THE CLOSE, &c. The Close and its Liberty— The Bishop's Palace— "Hermes" Harris— Fielding the Novelist Canon Bowles's House The Matrons' College — Humphrey Beckham's Statue of James I.— The King's House- Leyden Hall— De Vaux-place— St. Nicholas's Hospital, and Harnham-bridge. The beauty of Salisbury Cathedral is enhanced by the beauty of the surrounding Close. The building stands displayed on all sides, and a smooth lawn-like expanse of ever-green turf, inter sected with neat gravel walks, and tastefully planted with rows and avenues of fine trees, form an appropriate setting to the most chaste of English Cathedrals. Nature here seems a smiling votaress, dedicating her beauty at the shrine of Religion. The Close is the residence of the Bishop, Dean, Canons, and the several officers of the Cathedral. The Bishop's Palace, situate South-east of the Cathedral, is a large irregular building, the work of different ages and different Prelates. It was begun by Bishop Poore, and greatly improved by Bishop Beauchamp, who built the great hall about the year 1460. In the time of the grand Rebellion, when Bishops' lands were exposed to sale, it was bought by one Van Ling, a Dutchman, by trade a tailor. He con verted the greatest part of it into an inn, and opened a passage through the Close wall for the market people and other travellers who came through Harnham from the west. The remainder of the Palace was divided into small tenements, and let out to poor handicraftsmen. After the Restoration, Bishop Seth Ward expended more than £2000 in restoring it to its former state. Subsequently Bishops Sherlock and Barrington spent considerable sums in enlarging and embellishing it, the latter no less than £7000. Finally, the late Bishop, by re moving an unsightly lodge that obscured the principal front, has rendered its windows and battlemented parapet visible from the Close, and thereby added a new feature of much picturesque effect to the north view of the Cathedral. THB bishop's palace — " HERMES" HARRIS. 35 The Palace stands pleasantly surrounded by its gardens and grounds, which are well laid out, and of several acres in extent. There is an ornamental sheet of water, with an islet in the centre, and bordered with walks. Large elm, ash, and other indigenous trees, with some fine exotic specimens happily grouped and distributed, give a diversified and park-like appearance to this beautiful inclosure. It is bounded on the east, south, and west by a lofty embattled wall, and on the north by the Cathedral, Chapter-House, &c., the views of which, obtained from these grounds, charm and delight the eye by the variety and richness of their scenic and picturesque effects. The great room of the Palace is ornamented by a series of the portraits of all the Bishops who have filled the see from the Restoration to the present time. Most of them are copies — the portraits of Bishops Burnet, Hyde, Sherlock, Barrington, and Douglas are originals. In the library are portraits of Bishop Jewel and Bishop Duppa. In the reign of Richard II. (1384), a Parliament was held in the great hall of this palace, which was hung and adorned for the occasion. One John Latimer, an Irish Friar, appeared there, and charged John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, with a design to destroy the King and usurp the crown. The Monk was lodged in the Tower, aiid a day was appointed for the Duke to clear himself; but on the night beforej Latimer was murdered with circumstances of great brutality, and on the morning of the day appointed for the trial his dead and mangled body was dragged through the public streets. (Kennett). — In the reign of James I. (1618), Robert Viscount Lisle was created Earl of Leicester, and William Lord Compton Earl of Northampton in the great hall of the episcopal palace, which "was hung with arras, and a cloth of estate set up." The ceremonial observed on the occasion appears to have been very pompous. Supper was served in the great chamber of the Palace, and the Lords sat down in their robes and coronets. In the Close, near St. Anne's Gate, is the mansion formerly occupied by James Harris, Esq., distinguished as the author of " Hermes," &c., and the father of the first Lord Malmesbury. In the large room over the gateway, " Hermes" Harris used to give concerts and private theatrical performances, attended, we are told, by all who constituted the fashionable society of Salisbury and the vicinity.^ At the south side of St. Anne's ' Hoare's History of Wilts, Vol. VI., p. 582. d2 36 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. Gate is a house which was occupied hy Yielding, the Novelist, who married a lady of Salisbury, named Craddock, and was for a time resident in our city. He afterwards removed to the house in Saint Anne's-street, next to the Friary; and finally established himself in the mansion at the foot of Milford Hill, where he wrote a considerable portion ot his Tom Jones. . . Of no less interest from its associations is the Canonical residence, a woodcut of which is here annexed. It was for a liESIDEKCE OP THE LATE CANON BOWLES. long time the abode of a venerable man of genius. Canon Bowles (who died there), and was formerly occupied by Archdeacon Coxe, the Historian of Marlborough, House of Austria, &c. Under an open arch in a recess in the garden is a neat monu mental tablet, bearing the following inscription : — M. Gulmi. Coxe, Uteris per Europam illustris, W. L. B., Successor his .iEdibus Canonicis, P.— M.DCCC.XXX. Near the North entrance into the Close from High-street is the Matrons' College, which was founded and endowed hy Seth Ward, Bishop of Sarum, in 1682, for the maintenance of ten widows of clergymen of the Established Church. An addition of 2000 guineas was made to the funds of this in stitution in 1790, by a bequest of William Benson Earle, Esq., of the Close. The original endowment consisted of more than £200 a year, arising from lands in the neighbourhood. THE MATRONS COLLEGE. 37 According to the Bishop's biographer, the widows are bound to repair to the Cathedral both at morning and evening service, and stay out the whole time of prayers, under a pecuniary penalty. In case the diocese of Sarum did not furnish the required number of inmates, fitting recipients of the bounty were to be chosen out of the diocese of Exeter. Over the gate is the fol lowing inscription in letters of gold : — Collegium hoc Matronarum 111' 'Ii '^'^- <^*i ST. EDMUND S CHURCil. from the celeb rated Transfiguration of Raphael, and the landscape is from a no less eminent picture of Poussin. This handsome win dow, and the side windows of the Chancel, which are in mosaic, and most chastely imagined, were the gift of Samuel Whitchurch, Esq., formerly an inhabitant of the parish. A neat marble tablet , from the chisel of Westmacott, affixed to the wall, commemorates the donor's liberahty. On the left side of the Chancel are monu mental inscriptions to the memory of several members of fhe G 82 stbangeb's handbook to Salisbury. Wyndham family. Sir Wadham Wyndham and his descendants ai;e' buried in a vault beneath the Chancel. In connexion with this Church, we must not omit to notice a cir cumstance, ridiculous enough in itself, but which caused great ex- citeraent at the time of its occurrence, and has found a placein; general history. Henry Sherfield, Recorder of Salisbury, was tried' in the year 1632, before the Court of Star Chamber, for having broken a painted window in St. Edmund's Church, in defiance of the Bishop of Sahsbury's express injunctions. In this obnoxious window, figures of httle old men, barefooted, and clothed in blue and red long coats, were supposed to represent the Deity en gaged in the six days' work of Creation. One of_ these long- coated little old gentlemen had a pair of compasses in his hands, mefisuring the Sun and Moon; another was painted sitting down, in a deep sleep, enjoying the day of rest. The chronology was particularly offensive^— it represented the Sun and Moon as created on the third day instead of the fourth, and the trees and herbs on the fourth day, instead of the third. The birds were flying about on the fourth day, quite unconscious that they were not made till the fifth. The Creation of Man was assigned to the fifth day ; and, in further contradiction of the Mosaic account, a naked woman, from the knees upward, seemed to grow out of tiie side of the man ; whereas, argued Sherfield, God did create man on the sixth day, neither did the woman grow out of the man's side, but God took a rib from the man and made it a woman. The Attorney General said, these were excellent pictures ofthe CiiMiltion, made hundreds of years since, and were a great ornament to the Church. Sherfield maintained that they were an abomination to Almighty God, and that he had been it^ormed that some ignorant persons had committed idolatary by bowing before these represen tations. The Bishop of London did not pretend to justify the errors of the painter, but begged to observe to the Court, that God being called in Scripture the Ancient of Bays might be the occasion of the painter's representing God the Eather like an old man. Upon which, the Earl of Dorset observed, that by that text was meant the Eternity of God. and not God to be pictured as an old man creating the world with a pair of compasses. Laud declared that he would punish the Recorder for breaking the window, whether it were fit or not to be in the Church. The learned and pious functionary protested that he had merely poked his stick through a few small quarries of glass to show the glazier what was to be altered — that the work of the Creation was still as good as ever— ai. BHMUND S CHUBOHYABD. 83 amd that,, after all, it only cost forty shillings when it waa new. If this was intended as a hint to be gentle in assessing damages, it failed in its effect. Sherfield was sentenced to pay a fine of £500, to lose his office, to make an apology to the Bishop, to be com mitted to the Fleet, and bound to his good behaviour, by which we suppose was meant, that he should enter into securities never to attempt the work of annihilation again — Rapin. The Church-yard of St. Edmund's is spacious, and bordered with wide gravelled walks, overshadowed with avenues of limes. To the east of the church-yard is the mansion of J. H. Campbell Wynd ham, Esq. It occupies the site of the ancient conventual house, and still bears the name of " The College." An engraving of the Conventual Seal is printed in Leland's Collectanea, vol. vi. p. 383. It represents a bishop seated beneath a richly-ornamented canopy, and in a niche below a priest kneeling, with his hands closed in a devout posture. It contains two shields charged with iirmorial «nsigns, and has this inscription: '*S. Coe. Collegii Con. Edmundi Nove Sar." " The Common Seal of the Conventual College of St. Edmvmd, New Sarum." This locality is supposed to have been the scene of a sanguinary battle that was fought between the Saxons and Britons, commemo rated in the Saxon Chronicle thus : " A. D. 552. In this year Cynric fought with the Britons on the spot that is called Sarum, and put them to flight." Henry of Huntingdon informs us, that immense forces were brought together on both sides : the result of the struggle was, that the Saxons became masters of the import ant British fortress of Sorbiodunum or Old Sarum. In the year 1771, while workmen were employed in levelling a portion of the old city fosse that crossed the College gardens, they dug up the bones of nearly thirty human bodies, iron helmets, fragments of shields, pikes, a double-edged sword, a brass ccin, of Gonstantine the Great, and several pieces of iron, the uses of which are not known. The late H. P. Wyndham, Esq., considered these as indubitable relics of the battle of 552 ; and in commemoration of the discovery erected an urn upon the spot, with the following inscription : — • Hoc in campo, CynrJcus, oocidentalium Saxontim Rex, Britannos, aieb gravi hominnm strage profligavit, ut vicinam urbem Sorbiodunum facile mox ezpugnaret. Hujus cladis indicio sunt, armorum rubigine, nee non ossium putredine confectorum, insignes reliquiae nuper hie in apricum erutae. "Ne loci saltern memoria periret, hsec rite dedicatur uma, a.d. 1774." G 2 84 STRANGER S HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. At the south-east comer of Mr. Campbell Wyndham's park is' an architectural fragment, that formerly stood as a porch at the north end of the principal transept of the Cathedral. It was removed to its present site at the period of the alterations in that building under Bishop Barrington. It consists of four piers, with as many pointed arches, a small central spire, and purfled pinnacles at the angles. It is enriched with niches, foliage, and various mouldings ; CATHEDKAL PORCH IN MB. WYNDHAm's GARDEN. and, festooned and overgrown as it is with ivy, this ancient porch is an elegant and picturesque object in its present situation. An inscription erroneously records that it was originally brought from Old Sarum. Proceeding southward from the College, in the direction ofthe' ST. MARTIN S CHURUH. ¦85 old fosse, we come to the Church of St. Martin, situate on an eminence, at the eastern extremity of the city. It consists of a nave with aisles, a chancel, and a tower at the western end ofthe southern aisle, surmounted with a steeple. On the south of the west door is a receptacle for the holy water vessel ; and on the north a small niche, which probably once held the image of the patron saint. Under an arch in the north wall of the entrance- -' «i 'F4 -J At i/i'i'V. .-'. ST. martin's church. porch, is an altar-tomb, without date or inscription, conjectured to have once contained the ashes of the founder. The pointed arches of the nave are of a fine character : and from their loitiness would suggest the probability that the original roofing ot the Church must have been higher than the present wagon-shaped oeilincr. The windows ofthe aisles are of the perpendicular style ; M stranger's handbook TO SALISBURY. but the northern and southern rows do not correspond in their (details. The window of the east end is of stained glass, m very vivid mosaic. In the south wall of the chancel is a piscma ; some lancet shaped windows on the same side indicate a high antiquity. On the opposite side of the chancel is a large and handsome monu ment to some members of the Swayne family, several generations of which occupied the mansion at the foot of Millord Hill. TI* font of this Church is supposed to be of Norman workmanship^ and older than the Church itself. The Church of St. Martin is said to be the most ancient of the three parish churches of the city ; though no records remain by which the precise date of its foundation can be ascertained. A grant of Bishop Poore is extant, dated 1238, in which he assigns the Church of St, Martin to a priest of the name of Hervey. Leland says, that St. Martin's Church originally stood near St. Nicholas's Hospital ; and that a ruined barn was pointed out to him as its remains. From the documents lately pubhshed in Hoare's Modem Wilts, vol. 6, it appears, that the Prior of St. Nicholas formerly had a parochial district assigned to him ; and that this district was afterwards ab sorbed iu the parish of St. Martin, when the city was divided into parishes (as at present existing) by Bishop de la Wyle, in 1268. In reference to the parochial district of the Prior of St, Nicholas, it might with truth have been said at the time wh«n by the new arrangement that district was included in the pamh of , St. Martin, that the parish church was transfened mm St. Nicholas's to St. Martin's. Hence, probably, the origin of the tradition mentioned by Leland, that St. Martin's Chureh itself formerly stood near St. Nicholas's Hospital, and was ^afterwards removed to its present situation on the hill. St. Osmund's.— A new Roman Catholic place of worship, called the Church of St. Osmund, has, within the last few years- been erected in Exeter Street. The design was furnished by Mr. Pugin, and considering the means at his command, the building IS not unworthy of the architect. It consists of a nave and a southern aisle, with a. Lady Chapel at the east end, and a tower atthe west end of the aisle. In the interior, we are struck with the skill with which the limited space has been economised, and with the finely-graduated proportions observable in the distribu tion of the parts. The surface of the exterior is composed of flints, with quoins of Chilmark stone ; and in a niche on the west iront of the tower is the image of the patron saint of SaUsbuty. In Brown-street, the Baptists have a neat chapel, with a hand- THE CEMETERIES^ S7 some elevation. The Wesleyan Methodists have three Chapels ; one in Church-street, St. Edmund's,'and another in Church-street, Eiskerton,, belonging to the Conference party. The other, in Church-street, Fisherton, belongs to the Reformers. The Primi tive Methodists have a Chapel in Eisherton-street. The Indepen dents have two places of worship, one in Endless-street, and another in Scot's-lane. These are commodious, but unpretending structures — "such plain roofs as piety could raise." The Cemeteries — Two Cemeteries have recently been laid out, one for Eisherton and another for Sahsbury. The former is situated on the Devizes-road, about half a mile from the gaol, and occupies the highest point of land in the whole parish. The space enclosed contains about two acres and a half, and is in the shape of an elongated parallelogram. The entrance is from the Devizes- road, through an arched gateway, with a tower at the north end. The Cemetery is enclosed, on the side next the road, by a dwarf wall with an iron railing,, and on the other three sides by walls of panelled brick work about four feet high. A low sunk hedge sepa rates the ground into two portions, '¦ the south side being appro priated to the Established Church, and the north to the Dissenting Communities. Both mortuary Chapels strike us as peculiarly elegant, and as reflecting great credit on the architect, Mr. John Turner, of Wiltonrstreet, Grosvenor-squaie, London. The Cemetery ron Salisbury is on the London Road, about half-a-mde from the City. It slopes upward from the road towards Bishop Down, and we have no doubt that when planted, its appearance will be sufficiently picturesque. It is separated from the road by a low wall of brick and flint intermixed, sur mounted by an iron railing. At the entrance is a lodge ; up the centre runs a broad gravel road, whence diverge naiTower walks to the right and left. The Episcopal Chapel is about half way up the road, to the left, and a httle further up, on the right, stands the Dissenters' Chapel ; both are appropriate edifices. They are built of brick faced_with cut flints,, with windows, quoins, and dressings. of Bath stone. The Episcopal Chapel has a small tower and spire ; and its apse, which is used as a chancel, has three win dows, of stained glass ; the other Chapel has an open bell-turret» Both are so far alike,, that the timber work of the roofs, and the seats and desks are stained and varnished, and the floors are laid. ' " This isj my rotting-plaoe, and that is thine '." 88 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. with Minton's encaustic tiles. The extent of the cemetery is about ei-ht acres. The Chairman of the Burial Board was J. Brown. Es°q ; the clerk of the works, Mr. John Hardmg ; the builder, Mr. Curtis, of this citv ; and the architect Mr. Henry E.Coe, of Davies, Jun., Strand, London. The clerk to the Board is 6, Smith, Esq. The Schools — The City Grammar School is in Castle- street. It was founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1540, and is en dowed with £36 Is. 8d., subject to £1 18s. 4d. for Exchequer Eees paid by the Receiver of the Fee Earm Rents of the county of Wilts Eyre's lectureship, of £20 per annum, for a sermon to be preached once a week in St. Thomas's Church, is attached to the office of the Master. The free boys are appointed by the Corpo ration, and generally recommended by the Mayor. Among those who were educated at this sehool was the celebrated Addison, who was a native of Milston, near Amesbury, of which parish his father was rector. In the Close there is a Grammar School for the education of the choristers, founded by Bishop Poore. _ There are also the Bishop's School, in which twenty boys and giris are clothed and educated at the charge of the See ; the Godolphin Charity, endowed for the maintenance and education of eight young orphan ladies ; the National Schools, the Sunday Schools, and various others, which are supported by subscription. The Charities. — A stranger in traversing the city cannot but be struck with the number of charitable institutions by which Salis bury is so honourably distinguished. A particular account of them, with their specific objects, would far exceed the limits of these pages. We may enumerate, however, the Trinity Hospital, in Trinity- street: foundedby Agnes Bottenham, in 1379, and augmented by John Chandler, in 1397, and subsequently by several others ; twelve poor men receive 3s. 6d. per week, besides lodging, coals, &c. Bkickett's Hospital, in Exeter-street (formerly Draghall-street) : founded in 1534, and subsequently augmented; in this charity are six women receiving 3s. 6d. per week. Taylor's Almshouse, in Bedwin-street : founded in 1695 for six poor men, who receive 8s. 6d. per week. White's Charity : to be lent for ten years to foui- poor tradesmen, £25 each. Pople's Charity: 30 poor persons receive 3s. 6d. each per week. Eyre's Almshouses, in Winchester-street : founded, 20th July, 1617, for six old men and their wives, who receive 3s. 6d. per week. Duke of Somerset's Charity, for apprenticing poor children. Hussey's Almshouses, THR charities, — THE INFIRMARY. 89 ill Castle-street: founded, in 1813, for 13 poor couple, who re ceive 3s. 6d. per week. Blechynden's Almshouses, in Win chester-street: founded, 1752, for six poor widows, who receive 4s. 6d. per week from Michaelmas to Lady-day, and 4s. per week for the rest of the year, Euowd's Hospital, in Bedwin-street : founded 1 749, for six poor unmarried men and six poor unmarried women, who receive 43. 6d. each per week. Extensive charitable bequests have been left by Thomas Gardiner, Erancis Swanton, Robert Thorn, John Eyre, Robert Sutton, Thomas Cooksey, Thomas Smith, Erancis Newham, WiUiam Ghost, Richard Earlsraan. and others. Thomas Hare, Esq., Inspector of Charities, in his letter to the Mayor of Salisbury, respecting their management, mentions 5 8 charities yielding an annual income of £2,810 2s. 3d., which is divided amongst hospitals, almshouses, clothing, bread, apprenticing, and other charities. This goodly, but imperfect, list of " deeds of light" may appropriately be closed with the mention of an institution that may be described as the crowning charity of all — The Infiimary — It is a large brick pile, to which a wing has been lately added, and is situate in Eisherton, not far from the first bridge. It bears in front this inscription : — " General Infirmary, supported by voluntary contributions, 1767." This noble Insti tution owes its origin to the munificence of Anthony, Lord Eever- sham, who, in 1763, bequeathed £500 to the first County Hospital that should be established within five years after his decease. Tlie nobility, gentry, and clergy, were invited by the Mayor to aid in giving effect to the noble testator's benevolent design; and in 1767 the foundation-stone was laid by the Duke of Queensberry, assisted by the. Earls of Pembroke and Radnor, and the building was opened for the reception of patients in 1771. The benefactions, subscriptions, legacies, and other charitable donations and collections, from the first establishment. May, 1767, to August, 1856, amounted to £181,243 7s. 1 Id.; and its general and great utility may be proved from the following abstract of the number of In and Out-Patients during the above period: — In patients, 48,510; Out-Patients, 85,810. During eleven months, ending 81st July, 1856, the total expenditure amounted to £3,165. and the average number of In-Patients was 78.— Treasurer, C. W. Everett, Esq. The County Gaol formerly stood between the Infirmary and Eisherton Bridge. The New Gaol, situated beyond the Turnpike to the right ofthe Devizes Road, was commenced in 1818, and finished in 1822. 90 stranger's handbook to balisburt. Harnham and Fishertoni though generally considered as Buburbs of Salisbury, are much more ancient than the City itself. " Hamham was a pretty village ere Salisbury was builded," writes. a chronicler ; and Fisherton is mentioned in Domesday book a& Micartone, held in the time of Edward the Confessor by Godrie, The affix of Anger is a corruption of Auclier, the name of a family, who, by the Institutionea of 1319, presented to the living, and probably possessed the manor and lands. Their seat was at Copped Hall, in Essex, and a member of this family, Sibilla Aucher, was elected Abbess of Wilton in the year 1361. ' Eisherton Church. — ^The old church of Eisherton, said to have been the most ancient in the diocese, has been pulled down and a new ehureh has been erected on the south side of the Gaol, near the turnpike gate, not far from the terminus of the War minster railroad. It is designed in the geometric style of pointed architecture which prevailed at the close of the 13th century. It consists of a chancel, nave, and south aisle, south entrance porch and vestry to the south of the chancel. The dimensions of the old tower, which was a very striking feature in the landscape, have been strictly preserved in the new one. The building is of flint and stone, with Bath stone dressings. The roof, which is of lofty pitch, is covered with plain tiles, and the eastern gable ia terminated with a floriated cross. The entrance to the church is through an open wooden porch. The east window of the chancel consists of five lights with geometrical tracery. The roof of the chancel is open, and the floor is paved with plain red and buff Worcester tiles. The nave is divided from the aisle by six stone arches springing from piers alternately round and octagonal. The roof timbers are, in every case, exposed to view, the spaces between the rafters being plastered. The north and south walb are pierced with two-hght windows, and the central west window is divided into four long lights, with three foliated openings above. The pulpit, which is of stone, with its external faces sculptured into fohated panels, is placed in the north-east angle of the nave, and the reading-desk and lectem stand on a raised wooden platform. The church is capable of accommodating about 600 persons. On the ground formerly occupied by the Sun Inn, once stood the Monastery of the Dominicans, or Black Eriars. Speed ascribes its foundation to Robert Kilwardby, Archbishop of Canterbury, and King Edward I. Mary, Countess of Norfolk, founded a chantry ' Hundred of Branch and Dole. EAST HARNHAM CHURCH. 91 of -six priests, and fraternity of our Lady, St. Anne, and all Saints, within tbe mansion of these friars. Tbe site was granted, 36 Hen. ¥JII., to John Pollard and William Byrte. A garden now occupies the ground ; but the situation of the Monastery is clearly pointed out by Tanner^ who says it was " opposite to the place where now the common gaol for the county of Wilts is." ' The gaol at that time was immediately adjoining the first bridge at Eisherton, between the river and the Infirmary. Taylor, the water poet, who, in the year 1 623, undertook an adventm-ons voyage from London to Salisbury, in a wherry, with five men, records that at length he brought his shattered bark through Eisherton Bridge, and lodged " at the signe of the King's- Head there, with mine host Richard Estman, whose brother, Thomas, was one of the watermen, which came in the boate thither from London." ' East Hamham Church— This beautiful little Church EAST HARNHAU CHURCH. — ^quite an architectural hijou (by Mr. Wyatf) — was erected in 1S54 as a memorial to the late venerated Dean Lear. Situated on- th« green hill side, which gently slopes to the south bank of the Avon, it commands perhaps the most perfectly picturesque view of ' Notitia Monast. Art. WUtaliire. * Duke's Prolu». Hist., 513. 93 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. " the fair Cathedral," its Close embosomed in trees and encircled by the winding river, and of the city and country beyond. The Church, dedicated to All Saints, is in the decorated style, and consists of nave, with south porch, and a chancel with organ- chamber and vestry on the north. The bell turret, on the west gable, is supported by a central buttress between a pair ¦ of narrow trefoil-headed windows. The walls of flint and Batford stone, with Bath-stone dressings, harmonise admirably with the dark red-tiled roof, surmounted with ornamented crest-tiles and gable-crosses. The proportions of the interior are remarkably good. Entering by the porch, with its open trefoiled sides,, and seats of stone, you find near the door an ample font: this, and the pulpit (also of stone, on the north side of the chancel arch) are excellent specimens of carving, by Messrs. Osmond. Opposite the pulpit are the prayer desk and lectern, of solid oak, of which material also are the seats in the nave, all open and free, for above 300 worshippers. The roof both of nave and chancel is open, of stained fir, intersticed with blue ceiling. The nave is paved with white slabs ; the chancel (one step higher) with blue and buff encaustic tiles, those on the floor within the altar rail (two steps higher), being of a still richer pattern. The altar- table is of walnut wood, arcaded at the front and ends, and beauti fully carved. Above it, on the wall, runs a boldly illuminated Text ; and over all, the East window displays some admirable tracery and stained glass, the latter by O'Connor. The centre light contains in its upper portion our Lord sitting in glory, as the King of All Saints ; below is the institution of the Holy Sacra ment : in one of the side lights is the Miracle of the loaves ; in the other, the ResuiTection of the Just — the three lights thus picturing the spiritual food, the temporal food, and the final redemption of All Saints, each derived from Christ, their Divine head. The sub ject is completed in the head of the window by the three guardian angels— Michael, Raphael, and Gabriel, and in the west windows, by Abraham the Eather. and Moses the leader of the faithful. These latter are by Rogers, of Worcester ; and the whole design (by T. Gambier Parry, Esq.), brings within the easy comprehension of a village congregation the idea conveyed by the name of their Church. Of this Church the site was given by Viscount Eolke- stone, the principal cost of the building was defrayed by Mrs. Lear, and the endowment is the joint contribution ofthe "Vicar of Britford, and the Dean and Chapter of Sarum. For the very suitable school room adjoining (as well as for the sole support of the school) tho parish 18 indebted to the liberahty of Edw. Everett, Esq., ofthe Cliff. ^^. . .¥-4,-f OLD SA.RIIM. ^tttm iljf ^iit\. OLD SARUM, Old Sarum was built on a dry barren hill, A great many years ago ; 'Twas a Roman town, of strength and renown. As its. stately ruins show. Dr. Pope'i Salisiury Ballad. From Salisbury to old Sarum we step, as it were, out of the present hack into the past. It can hardly be matter of surprise that this should be, in some respects, a step into the dark. The obscurity of antiquity naturally involves the origin of Old Sarum, a primitive British town, and unquestionably a Roman Station. Su" Richard 94 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. Colt Hoare is of opinion that this strong position was probably wrested from the Britons during the reign ofthe Emperor Claudius, when his General, Vespasian, is said to have taken twenty British towns, and to have subdued two powerful nations, one of which 13 supposed to have been the Belgse, who inhabited the western coun ties of Hampshire, Wdtshire, and Somersetshire.' Old Sarum was oalled by the Romans Sorbiodunum, and under that name it occurs as one of the ten British cities enumerated by Richard of Ciren cester, as enjoying the privilege of the Latian law. Its importance as a Roman Station may be judged of from the fact that six roads radiated from it as a centre. The 1st, S.W., which passed near Bemerton Church, and crossing the Willy by the parsonage barm, proceeded over Lord Pembroke's Warren to Tony-Stratford, Woad- yate's Inn, and Bradbury, to Dorchester. The Slid, E. by Fiird and Winterslow Mill, Buccold Earm, and Bossington, to Win chester. And the 3rd, N.E. by Paton to Silchester. These three Homan roads (and they can be traced throughout with certainty) issued from the eastern portal. The 4th, N. is said to have led to the Roman station of Cunetio, near Marlliorough. The 5th, N.W. to Aquee Sobs or Bath, by Bishopstrow and Tarnbury, Scratchbury, .and Battlesbury Castles. And the 6th, W. towards Iscalia, or Ilchesfer. The name of Sorbiodunum appears to be compounc'ed of three Celtic words (Sorb aun dun), signifying the Dry River- town, or the Dry Hill-by-the-River, an appellative expressive of the natural characteristics of the place, which was probably learned from the Britons, and modified and adopted by the Romans as a proper name ; as the neighbouring stream is called the Avon, which in the primitive dialect means only River in general. During the Saxon era the notices of Old Sarum or Searobyrig become more frequent. We have already mentioned the great battle of 552, in which Cynric defeated the Britons and made him self master of this important fortress. From some manuscripts preserved in the Bodleian and Cotton libraries, quoted by Price, we learn that in the early part of the eighth century, Ina, King of the West Saxons, endowed the Church of St. James in Sarysbyrig with lands ; and that his consort, Ethelburga, made a similar grant f 0 the nuns serving God in the Church of St. Mary in Sarisbyrig. In 871 the outer intrenehment is supposed to have been added: by Alfred the Great immediately on his accession to the throne^ within a month after which he fought a great battle with the Daneg. at Wilton. In 960 King Edgar convoked a wittenagemoit or as. ' Ancient Watshire, Vol. I. 223, 4. old sabuu. 95 aembly of hi« wise men at Sarum, to concert measures for the defence of Northumberland against the invasion of the Danes. In 1003 Sweyn, King of Denmark, father of Canute the Great, in re venge for the massacre of the Danes in the preceding year, made a descent upon the southern coast, and ravaged the country as far as Wilton and Sarum; both which places he is said to have devastated and burnt, and then to have retreated to his ships. It is con jectured with probabihty that Sweyn destroyed only the suburbs of Sarum on this occasion, or that the city soon rose again from its ashes. For, as has been already stated, in 1076, ten years after the Norman invasion, the episcopal see was transferred from Sher borne to Sarum as a place of importance and security. In the year 1086, an event memorable in the annals of EngUsh history took place at Sarum, when all the states of the kingdom were summoned hither to do homage to William the Conqueror, and submit their lands to the yoke of Military tenure. " Afterwards," writes the Saxon Chronicler, " he moved about so that he came by Lammas to Sarum, where he was met by his councillors, and all the landmen that were of any aecount over all England became this man's vassals as they were ; and they all bowed themselves before him and became his men, and sware him oaths of allegiance that they would against all other men be faithful to him." In 1093 the new Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was consecrated by Bishop Osmund, with the assistance of Wakeline Bishop of Winchester and John Bishop of Bath. On the fifth day after its consecration, the tower was seriously damaged by hghtning. It was situated in that quarter of the fortress which is bounded eastward by a high em bankment, and southward by the hollow way leading to the western gate. In the year 1834-5, the foundations' of it were distinctly traced and laid open % the late Mr. Hatcher and Mr. Eisher. It was ascertained that the structure was in the shape of a plain or Latin cross, extending 270 feet from west to east, with a transept 150 feet in length. The transept, as well as the body of the church, was fianked with double aisles. Two skeletons were found, as also two keys ; and in the rubbish were seen fragments of stained glass, window-leads, and charcoal. But the most interesting dis covery was an empty grave, excavated in what was judged to be the solid mass of the plinth, on the south side of the choir, supposed to have been that of the venerable Osmund himself; the dimensions exactly corresponding with those of the slab that once covered his remains, and is now to be seen in the nave of the present Cathedral. 1 See note " Foundation of Osmond's Cathedral,'' at the end of the book. 96 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. During the prelacy of Osmund, in the reign of William Rufus, a great council was held at Old Sarum, in which William Earl of En was impeached of high treason. He challenged his accuser to a duel ; and having been vanquished, his eyes were put out, and his body was mutilated. William of Malmesbury informs us, that many innocent and worthy persons were involved in this accusa tion ; among others, William of Alderia or Audry, the godfather of the King, who was sentenced to be hanged. He was scourged at all the churches of the city ; and having distributed his gar ments to the poor, he walked naked to the gallows, kneeling fre quently in prayer as he went, and staining the stones with his blood. Osmund attended him to the place of execution, and having given him his benediction, and sprinkled him with holy water, withdrew. The godfathej and cousin of King William Rufus met his ignominious death without a groan or a sigh, and protested his innocence to the last. These sanguinary and revolt ing scenes were enacted at Old Sarum in the year 1096.' But Old Sarum seems to have attained its meridian of prosperity under Bishop Roger. Like his predecessor, Osmund, he obtained the custody of the fortress. The surpassing splendour of the Cathedral, and the magnificence of the works of the fortification, under " Roger the Great," as he has been styled, are attested by contemporary writers. Henry the First held his court at Old Sarum for several months in 1100 and 1106; and in 1116 assembled here the prelates and barons of the realm to do homage to his son William. These were the days of "princely pomp and church man's pride " for Old Sarum. But in the civil wars of Stephen ' the scene was changed : Roger was disgraced and soon died of gi'ief; the fortress was entnisted to laymen; the ecclesiastics were coerced and insulted by the soldiers of the garrison ; and the forti fications were dismantled by the contending partisans of Stephen and Maud, as in turn they obtained possession of the place and were obliged to abandon it to their antagonists. On the accession of Henry IL, in 1154, the castle was found to be in a dilapidated ' condition, and considerable sums were expended in restorino- it. But it was found easier to repair the breaches in the walls than to heal the feuds between the clerical and military authorities. A good understanding seems never to have prevailed between these rival communities almost from the downfall of Bishop Roger. From that period the custody of the fortress was committed to fay- ' Will am of Malmesbury, Koger Hoveden, Savile, 70-267. OLD SARUM. 97 men ; and another element of discord existed in the fact, that the castle and its immediate precincts forming the Royal Buro-h, were inhabited by the tenants of the crown ; whereas tlie greater part of the population seem to have been located in the suburbs on ¦the lands of the Church, and were the tenants and dependents of the Bishop and other members of the ecclesiastical establishment. Subjects of dispute could never be wanting between parties so situated, forced to be neighbours, but ceasing to be friends. " After often brawls they fell at last to sadde blows." It chanced, in the reign of Richard I., that the clergy were going in solemn procession in Rogation week, when a controversy arose between them and their military opponents, as to the precise demarcation of their respective boundaries, when " such was the hot entertain ment on each part, that at the last the Castellanes, espieing their time, gate betweene the cleargie and the towne, and so coiled them as they returned homeward, that they feared any more to g&ng about their bounds for the year."' Such indignities and outrages, added to the natural incoaveniences arising from the position of the Cathedral, confined as it was within the walls of the castle,, determined the clergy at length to carry into effect a, project that had long been entertained. Herbert Poore obtained a licence from King Richard to remove the church, and a spot was actually fixed on for the purpose. But Bishop Herbert hesitated when he began to calculate the probable expenses of the uudertaking, and the disastrous reign of John soon followed. As we have seen in the first section, the translation of the Cathedral was deferred tUl the reign of Henry III., and the execution of the design was re served for Herbert's brother-and successor, Bishop Richard Poore. The citizens, however, began to remove their habitations in the time of Richard I., " now one, and then another; " and it is certain that parts of the present city were occupied by the free and servile tenants of the Bishop previously to the foundation of the Cathedral. = Vie have alluded to the existence of two distinct classes of men in and about Old Sarnm. The following extract from Hoare's History defines clearly the hraits of iheroyal peculium on which the Castle, stood, and that was inhabited by the tenants of the Crown, and points out the relative situation and extent of the circum- jjicent suburbs, which was the domain of the Church. " Old ' Holinshed. » Magna Britannia, Folio His., 32, 33 and 42, 43. H 98 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. Sarum consisted first of the fortress or castle, or that space which is circumscribed by the outer ditch and rampart. Of this portion, nearly one-fourth was occupied by the Cathedral and Close. The precinct, or what may, perhaps, be more properly termed the Burgh, lay beneath the fortress, and formed the second or outer portion. It was enclosed with a wall, commencing at the pubhc house on the east side of the road, and running to the foot of the rampart, which is skirted on the north, west, and partly on the south. It then diverged, leaving a considerable open space on the declivity, and finally abutted on the road leading to Stratford. The area of this inclosure is 49 acres, 8 roods. The joint extent of the fortress and burgh amounts to 72 acres, 1 rood ; and like the royal demesnes of Clarendon, Melchet, and the Earldoms, it is extra-parochial. The manors of Stratford and Stratford Dean's, surrounding the fortress and burgh, were apparently the lands which, by the liberality of Osmund, were vested in the Dean and Canons. These were occupied by the tenants of the Church, who estabhshed their dwellings in difterent directions, especially in the space between the fortress and the river, forming suburbs, possibly more extensive, and certainly more commodiously situated, than the burgh itself." This account of the relative situation and extent of the fortress and suburbs of Old Saram is corroborated by the authority of others. Price distinctly asserts, that " the ancient city stood to the south-west of the Castle, and as it were, under its ramparts." There can be no doubt, that by far the largest suburb, or as Price calls it, the city, occupied the open space at the foot of the hill, and stretched away towards the river, including a part of the present village of Stratford. The remarks we shall presently have to offer on the burgage-tenures will leave no doubt that this was the situa tion of the town or city, as distinguished from the fortress and its precinct, and the liberty ofthe borough of Old Sarum extended at least in one direction as far as the river. Leland informs us, that there was also " a faire Suburbe " without each of the gates. From Osmund's charter of foundation we infer, that the houses of the Canons were built on both sides of the road leading from the western gate to Stratford. Mention is made in a deed 'of Bishop Poore's of " the barns and area in which they were situated." In the east suburb was the parish of St. John, with its church; and some years ago, when the ibundations ofthe wall borderino- on fhe road were dug up, many bones and skulls were found, which the late Mr. Hatcher considered to be the remains of bodies deposited OLD SARUM. 99 in the cemetery belonging to this church. A leper-house near the east gate is also mentioned ; and a free chapel or hospital of St. John was situated in the same suburb, which was standing when Leland visited Old Sarum. It is returned in the Valor Eoel. of Henry VIII. (II. 89), as possessing half an acre of pasture and 15 acres of arable land, valued at 63. 8d. yearly. The ecclesiastical foundations at Old Sarum appear to have been numerous and ancient. We have already mentioned the Church of St. James, endowed during the Saxon era, and the Church and free Chapel of St. John in the east suburb. Before the translation of the episcopal see from Sherborne, the King had a royal free chapel at Old Sarum, like that of Windsor at the present day, " wherein the Dean, under the King, had more than episcopal jurisdiction ;" and we learn that " the Deans of Sarum had their abode, before the conquest of England by the Normans, in Old Castle." ' Besides the Cathedral, there was a parish Church of the Holy Rood, and another near the east gate, of which Leland saw some remains when he visited the place in 1540. And here we must beg to dwell for a moment on a point of much interest, as it strikes us, in Leland's account of Old Sarum. He informs us that the Castle was a mass of " notable ruinous building," and that not one house either within or without the walls was inhabited. But the Genius of the Sainted Osmund seemed to linger near the spot that his virtues once consecrated, when all else had deserted it ! A chapel of Our Lady, Leland says, was still standing and main tained 1 It was a perpetual Chantry, dedicated to the Virgin, and originally founded in the old Cathedral ; and two Vicars were an nually appointed to minister there, by the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury, up to the period of the Reformation. This sohtary Chapel, vvith its gleaming tapers, in that silent City of the Dead, powerfully affects the imagination, as if we actually found ourselves in some scene of Dante's Purgatory ! With what a thrilling and melancholy interest must Leland have looked upon it ! And could he, without emotion, have listened to the low chaunt of " the sad and solemn priests," singing for the souls of the departed great amidst the spectral ruins of their former splendour I " fuimus Troes, fuit Ilium, et ingens Gloria Teucrornm ! " - Nor was Old Sarum without its monastic estabhshments. We 1 Price, 38. ' " Troy is no more, and Ilium was a town." — Dbydbn. H 3 100 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. have seen that there was a Convent of St. Mary here for nuns, ,, during the Saxon era ; and, as Dr. Pope says in his humorous Sahsbury Ballad, " there were friars and monks " at Old Sarum. Speed and Tanner make no mention of such an institution ; but we are assured of its existence by certain incidental notices that occur elsewhere. In a writ still extant King Stephen requires Earl Patrick to demolish part of the -monastery and clmrch adjoining the Castle. And Dr. Lingard informs us, that Wulfnoth, the son of Eari Godwin and brother of King Harold, was, in his youth, delivered by his father as a hostage to Edward the Confessor, who, for greater security, committed him to the custody of William of Normandy, in whose Court he remained for many years a prisoner; and that on the overthrow of Harold, and the establishment of the Norman dynasty, Wulfnoth only recovered his liberty to embrace the monastic profession at Salisbury ! The brother of " the last of the Saxons," closing his sorrowful life there as a cowled monk, is certainly not the least striking reflection connected with the histo rical associations of Old Sarum. The Castle was garrisoned and maintained as a royal fortress for a considerable time after the removal of the city. The county gaol is said to have been kept there as late as the reign of Henry VII. It was first alienated from the Crown in the 25th of Henry VI,, when Lord Stourton, Treasurer of the Household, obtained a grant of it in fee at the yearly rent of 3s. 4d. It reverted to the Crown in the reign of Queen Mary, on the attainder of Charles, Lord Stourton, who was executed iu the Market-place of Salisbury for the murder of Mr. Hartgill and his son. It was bestowed by James I. on Secretary Cecil, the second son of Lord Burleigh, with the title of Earl of Salisbury. We may here remark that this title is very ancient. Knighton styles Edric, Duke of Mercia, Earl of Salisbury. After the Conquest, the first who bore the title is said to have been Walter le Eurus (misnamed Devereux), whose de scendant, Ela, conveyed it to William Longspee, natural son of Henry II., by fair Rosamond. According to others, the first mem ber of this family that bore the title was Patrick, father of William, Earl of Balisbury, mentioned in connection with the toui-nament at p. 116, and great grandson of this Walter le Eurus. Earl William was the father of Ela, who was born at Amesbury, and married to William Longspee. The present representative of Ela, of Salisbury and the House of Longspee, is Lord Stafibrd, on whom, through the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham, and the families of Howard and Plowden, has descended the representation of the ancient Earl OLD BAKUM. 101 of Salisbury .1 King Edward III. conferred it on Wilham Montacute, the heiress of which family brought it into the house of Neville. As a descendant of the Nevilles, the son of Richard III. was created Earl of Salisbury. The unfortunate Countess of Sahsbury, beheaded in the reign of Henry VIIL, received her title in virtue of the same descent. It has been borne by the posterity of Sir Robert Cecil to the present day. James, the fourth Earl of that family, sold the Castle and Manor of Old Sarum to Governor Pitt, in 16S0, for the sum of £1,500. It remained in the Pitt family till 1804. when Lord Granville, who had married the sister of Thomas Pitt, Lord Camelford, disposed of it for £65.000 to the Earl of Caledon, who exchanged it for other estates with James Alexander, Esq., the late proprietor. It has recently been purchased by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. In connection with its early history, we may mention that a royal mint was established at Old Sarum during the Saxon period. A coin of Edward the Confessor was found there, bearing on its reverse the legend Godrie on Searrvm ; the name of the mintmaster and the place where it was struck. A great many Roman and Saxon coins have at different times been discovered; and a number of silver Lares and a Diana, in lead, have also been dug up there. Dr. Ledwiche is of opinion that many curious and valuable antiquities might be found in the wells and old foundations, if any one had spirit enough to prosecute the search.^ On the removal of the Cathedral Establishment, Old Sarum soon fell to decay. Some writers represent, that in a few years it became utterly desolate. But we presume that this could not have been the case in 1295 (Edward I.), when Old Sarum, as a burgh or city, 'first sent members to Parliament. It was not again represented till the year 1360 (Edward IIL); from which time till the passing of ihe Reform Act, Old Sarum continued to send two members to the national councils. The first representatives were Hugh Sener, Peter le Wayte, in 1395. The last were James Alexander, Josias Dupre Alexander, in 1880. It was disfranchised in 1831. It thus appears, that, with the exception of the interval above mentioned. Old Sarum exercised the privileges of a parliamentary borough for a period of 536 years. The burgage tenures, or plots of ground, that conferred the elective franchise on those who possessed or oc cupied them, are nine in number, and comprise twenty-three acres two roods. Three of them are situated labout midway between the 1 Lacock Abbey, 149. " Price, Anliq. Sarisb. and Dugdale's Baronage. 102 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. Castle and the village of Stratford, and abut on the Roman road. The middle one is called the Election-acre, and is recognised by a tree — a witch-elm, we believe — that is said to mark the site of the town-house in the market-place of the ancient borough. The last remaining houses of the old city are said to have stood in this quarter ; and after the spot had ceased to be inhabited, the elections took place in a tent that was erected for the occasion under the tree. Of the other burgage-tenures, one was north of the east gate of the Castle, one at the angle of the two roads entering Stratford from Salisbury, another in a garden opposite, and fhe remaining three pieces were near the river, in a place called Kingsbridge Meadow. In 1801, John Home Tooke was returned as member for Old Sarum, by Lord Camelford, proprietor of the borough. This occasioned the act for disqualifying persons in holy orders to sit in the House of Commons.' The vast earth-works of Old Sarum forcibly impress the beholder by their imposing air of desolate grandeur and stem magnificence. The outer circumvallation consists of what may be described as a double rampart, with a ditch between, " a very deep and strong thynge ;"^ and, according to Sir R. C. Hoare, it measures seven furlongs twenty-six yards in circumference, and comprises an are» of twenty-seven acres and a half Towards the middle of this area rises the inner work or Citadel, which is also surrounded by a deep fosse. The valla of the inner and outer works are nearly of equal height : the former being one hundred, and the latter one nundred and six feet high. Both were surmounted by massive walls at least twelve feet thick. The lower ballium, or outer court, was subdivided by three embankments with walls and ditches. The principal entrance was to the east, with a lunette or homwork before it, deeply ditched and with two narrow obhque entries ; on the opposite side, to the west, was a postern-gate similarly defended. Between the hollow way leading to the western gate and the cross- bank towards the north, stood the Cathedral; the inclosed adjoining quarter towards the east is supposed to have been occupied by the Bishop's Palace; and immediately beyond the junction of the second transverse embankment with tlie outer rampart, and not far north from the principal entrance, a cavity ofthe gi-ound marks the place where a subterraneous passage viaa discovered in 1795. It descended by steps, cut in the chalk rock, in an angle nearly parallel ' Price, Duke, and Hoare's History. Leland. THE EARTHWORKS OP OLD SARUM. 103 to the glacis, to the depth of more than a hundred and twenty feet. It is now stopped up, the bank which overhung the entrance having foundered in the winter of 1 815. It is supposed to have been intended for a sally-port ; a conjecture which is rendered probable by the circumstance that, at nearly an equal distance to the south of the principal entrance, a similar sinking of the earth was formerly observable ; and that traces of what engineers call a rampe are visible on each side of the eastern gate, which was evidently intended to facilitate the descent into the fosse, so as to reach the interior by means of these subterraneous communications. The Royal Apartments, including the Chapel and the great Hall, are supposed to have been situated in the Citadel. This part of the works is 310 yards in circumference. A sinking of the earth towards the south indicates the spot where a well was sunk, which must have been of prodigious depth. When Price wrote, the re mains of a watch-tower, to the N.W. and opposite to the portal, were stiU visible : the inequalities of the ground are all that ia now left to mark the traces of former buildings. The lofty Keep that must once so majestically have crowned the castled Hill, aud looked down proudly on the girdled fortress and the subject town, with wing like suburbs stretching east and west, is now a bleak and blackened mound, an image of utter ruin and melancholy desolation. The besom of destruction has swept over all : tower and town have fallen ¦ or have been demolished, and the materials have been carried away. Two fragments of masonry alone remain ; one of which is on the outer rampart, towards the north, faced with hewn stone ; and the other, a crag-like mass of rubble and flints embedded in cement threateningly overhangs the steep ascent to the Citadel. Old Sarum, in its present aspect, can hardly be said to present even the rain of a city : the city has been removed to the valley, and the de serted hill is restored to Nature. Such was and is Old Sarum 1 The City of the Celt, the Roman, Saxon, Dane, and Norman, and now, as ere it became the habita tion of man, the lone Dry Hill-by-the-River 1 The Briton has driven his war-car down its sides, — the Roman hath waved his im perial truncheon from its summit, — the invading Saxon has planted his Dragon- standard on its top,' — the ravaging Dane has rolled the blazing tide of war to its feet ;— and here the mighty Conqueror of England received the kneehng homage of an assembled Kingdom ! A Palace, a -Fortress, and a Bishop's see,— Pontifls have passed in ' The Dragon was the ensign or cognisance of the Wes Saxons. l04 STR.iNGlR's HANDBOOK TO SAXISBURY. solemn procession through its gates. Warriors have displayed their bannered pride in its Courts, and Monarchs have sat enthroned in its Citadel ! And nou- — the scene of all this majesty, and power, and splendour, once quick with animation, and echoing with the sounds of life, — looks like some vast Druidical Mausoleum, reared only to cover and commemorate the dead 1 Around it " a thousand years their cloudy wings expand !" And we see, as it were through the mist of ages, the phantoms of its former glory pass, like the unsubstantial pageant of a dream ! The Neighbourhood of Salisbury — Amesbury— Stonehenge. Amesbury, or more correctly Ambresbury, is distant from Salis- ¦ bury eight miles, and, across the downs from Old Sarum, about seven. It was a place of importance during the earHest periods of our history. An ancient British monastery is said to have been founded here by a monk of the name of Ambrius, or, according to others, by the famous British King or Emperor, Aurelius Ambro- aius, " who," says Tanner, " was buried therein." It is more cer tain that Elfrida, the Queen Dowager of King Edgar, established a Benedictine convent for nuns at Amesbury about the year 980, which' eventually became one of the richest and most flourishing religious houses of tbe kingdom. Mary, the sixth daughter of Edward the First, took the veil there, with thirteen noble young ladies, on the day of the Assumption, in 1283. The King himself conducted the Princess to the altar, and stood by while she pro nounced the vows. Eleanor, Queen of Henry the Third, and mother of Edward the First, also became a nun at Amesbury, and was buried there in 1292. At the time of the dissolution, the establishment consisted of an Abbess and thirty-four nuns ; and its yearly revenues, according to Speed, amounted to £558 lOs. 2d. The convent was surrendered by Joan Darell, the last Abbess, to Henry the Eighth, on the 4th of December, 1540, and in tlie fol lowing Apiil it was granted to Edward, Earl of Hertford. The estate was purchased in 1720 by Lord Carleton, who devised it by will to his nephew Charles, the third Duke of Queensberry. This Duke and his charming Duchess — the " Kitty beautiful and young, and wild as colt untamed," of Prior — ^have conferred an interest and celebrity upon Amesbury by their own virtues and talents, and by their generous patronage of the poet Gay. In their hospita ble mansion on the banks of the winding Avon, he founds peaceful asylum during the declining years of his life. Johnson informs us that the Duke undertook the management of the poet's little pro perty, and dispensed it out to him according to his wants. In a letter to Swift after Gay's death, the Duchess writes :— " I have !ost in him the usefullest limb of my mind. This is an odd expres- 106 stbanger's handbook to Salisbury. sion, but I cannot explain my notion otherwise." She died in 1777: the Duke survived her but a short time. Tbe mansion in which this distinguished pair resided has been partially taken down by the present proprietor. Amesbury House, which was built by Webb, from a design by Inigo Jones, occupied the site of Queen Elfrida s nunnery. At the close of the last century it was inhabited by a society of English nuns, who, on the French invasion of Flanders in 1794, fled from Louvain and settled at Amesbury ; where they remained till the year 1800, when they removed to Spettisbury, near Blandford, in Dorsetshire. The Amesbury estate, consisting of about 5,296 acres, was purchased in 1834 by Sir Edmund An- trobus, Bart., for the sum of £145,000. According to Geoffry of Monmouth, the Britons who were trea cherously slain at Stonehenge by Hengist and his Saxons were in terred in " the burying-place by the monastery of Ambrius the Abbot." With regard to this alleged massacre, we conceive with Sharon Turner, that it can neither be authenticated nor disproved. The name of Amesbury has been derived by some from this Abbot Ambrius, by others from Aurehus Ambrosius ; but Stukeley's opinion seems to he more generally adopted, that " Stonehenge had originally the name of Ambres, and from it the adjacent town of Ambresbury had its name.' Stonehenge. — The road from Amesbury to Stonehenge cuts in two the rampart of Vespasian's Camp. The visitor will observe the severed embankment on either side of the turnpike road. " Now I apprehend," says Dr. Stukeley, " that Stonehenge was originally called the Ambres, from thence this camp was called Ambresburgh, and thence the name of the town underneath." Id. 49. Main ambrea, ambrea, petrtB ambrosia signify the stones anuointed with holy oil, consecrated, or, in a general sense, a temple, altar, or place of worship. Id. 51. At the Ambrosial Stones we are now arrived; and, though our limits necessarily preclude that notice which so interesting a subject demands, yet, as the visitor to Salis bury will naturally expect some account of Stonehenge, we have drawn up the following article, principally derived from the ample details on this " Wonder of the West," which are to be found in the first volume of Sir R. C. Hoare's Ancient Wiltshire. Our object has been to furnish something like a clue to the stranger in threading the intricacies of this " mighty maze, but not without a plan;" and we have endeavoured to render our account as per- ' Stonehenge Described, 49. stonehenge. 107 spicuous as the nature of the subject and the brevity imposed upon us would allow. Stonehenge Hes nine miles north-west of Salisbury, and is situated not far from an angle formed by the junction of two roads ; of which that to the south leads to Wily, and the other to the north through Shrewton and Heytesbury to Warminster. Proceeding up the latter, we reach the Avenue, which is marked by a bank and ditch on either side, and leads directly into the temple from the N.E. J, . STONEHENGE. — BENERAL VIEW. The first object that here arrests the eye is a large Cromlech or Bowing Stone, standing by itself near the roadside ; which pre sents, says Mr. Carter, "a lively idea of a venerable Druidical figure with a flowing beard, in an attitude of devotion, bending towards the sacred pile." It is called the Iriar's heel, and is about sixteen feet high. Advancing along the avenue, we enter the area of the work, and observe that it is surrounded by a ditch and a slight agger of earth. The circumference of this ditch, which is on the outside of the vallum, measures 369 yards. Within the area, adjoining the agger, and ia a Hue with the Friar' a lieel, is a large prostrate stone, supposed by some to be that on which the victims were immolated, and hence called the slaughtering stone. It bears 108 stranger's handbook to SALISBURY. the marks of tools, and once stood erect. It is about 100 feet Irom the Friar's heel, and the same distance from the outside of the stone circle. " The distance from the vallum to the temple," says Sir E. C. Hoare, " is also one hundred feet, as well as the inner diameter of the temple ; so that the Britons seemed partial to the proportion of one hundred feet, having adopted it in so many important parts of their building." Before we' advance to the temple, we would request the visitor to observe that there are two stones at the outer circumvallation, one on the S.E. side, near nine feet long, which has fallen backwards on thc vallum; and the other opposite on the N.W., which is not quite four feet high. He will also observe two small tumuli at the opposite points S.E. and N.W, Stukeley supposes these to have been the places where two stone vases were set, and the stones before mentioned to have been two altars. Sir R. C. Hoare opened i)ibsQ tumuli, and,, much to his surprise, found that on the North-West to contain an interment of burnt bones. " We may observe," says the late Mr. Hatcher, " that the trench which surrounds Stonehenge, on the north-west side, cuts nearly through the centre of one of that class of barrows, in which no metals are found."' The inference has hence been deduced'that this sepulchral barrow existed on the plain before the trench which euriounds Stonehenge was dug, and possibly before Stonehenge itself was erected. We now approach the mysterious Temple itself. It consisted of two circlea and two opofe.'the latter constituting the Cell or San-otum. .The outward circle is about 300 feet in cir cumference, and was composed of huge upright stones, bearing others placed horizontally on their tops. The horizontal stones touched each other, and formed a continuous corona, or crown-work all round the building. Though irregular in form and size, the stones of this circle bear evident marks of having been wrought with tools. There were originally thirty uprights and as many imposts : of the former seventeen are still standing, of the latter six only remain. The uprights are on an average about sixteen feet high and eighteen feet in circumference. The space between thera is nearly the same as the width of the stones, about three feet and a half: the entrance is wider than the other intervals. At the distance of between eight and nine feet "from the outward circle is the inner circle, composed of smaller stones, rude and irregular in shape, and bearing no marks of having ever been wrought. Of this circle, containing originally forty stones, traces ' Hist. Account of Old and New Sarum, 2, note. STONEHKNGE.'— THE CELL OR SANCTUM. 109 tJ'^1^ only remain. We now come to the most imposing part of the stnicture, the Cell or Sanctum ; which consists of two ovala, a larger and a smallei- one. The large oval was formed by five pair of irihthcns, or two large upright stones with a third laid over them as an impost. They rose graduaUy in height from east to west. The first#n your left hand, as you stand with vour back to the avenue, is sixteen feet three inches high; the next on the same side, seventeen feet two inches ; and the central one facing you, is twenty-one feet six inches in height. One of the uprights of this grand central trilithon has fallen, and it is broken "¦***£ - "^^^f^ ^\ kit i& .«*v it lSl'»- T' t A *4'.. STONEHENGE. — NE.\Il VIEW^ into two pieces, measuring together twenty-six feet three inches. The impost, likewise prostrate, is fifteen feet six inches long. The other upright of this trilithon is nine feet out of the perpendicular, and is the most striking object of the group. Jam jam lapsnra cadentique Immiaet assimilis — is, Stukeley's apposite quotation. Ready to fall, arrested. there, It seems impending in the air. It appears to be supported by a smaller stone, which is ribbed or 110 stranger's handbook to SALISBURY. orooved; but, says Sir R. C. Hoare, "the adhesion between them fs j ust sufiicient to swear by, and that is all." The visitor wdl not fail to observe the boldly-marked tenon on the top of this leaning stone, into which the mortice of the impost was fitted. The trilithon next to the grand central one, on the right hand, fell out wards in a westerly direction on the 3rd c#January, 1797; the impost in its fall striking against one of the stones of the outer circle. One of the uprights measures 21 feet 4 inches, the other 21 feet 3 inches ; and the impost is 16 feet in length. According to Dr. Maton's calculation, the weight of the entire trilithon must be nearly 70 tons; the impost alone being considerably more than 11 tons in weight. In contemplating these prostrate masses, we feel the force of Stukeley's remark : " Other buildings fall by piece meal, but here a single stone is a ruin, and lies hke the haughty carcase of Gohath." The last trilithon, in the order in which we have taken them, that on the right hand of the entrance into the adytum or cell, has the outer upright still standing; the other upright and the impost have fallen forwards into the cell, and are each broken into three pieces. It now only remains to notice the inner oval, which, according to Stukeley, consisted originally of nineteen stones, of which traces of eleven may yet be seen. They are much smoother and taller than the stones of the inner circle, and incline to a tapering or " pyramidical " form. That on which the leaning stone ofthe grand trilithon seems to rest is remarkable, as having a groove all down it from top to bottom, and as being bevelled oif " almost to an angle on the inner side." Within this smaller oval lies the altar-stone, which measures fifteen feet in length, and is almost covered by the upright and impost of the grand central trilithon which have fallen across it. The interior diameter of the building, as has been already stated, is about 100 feet ; the width of the entrance into the Cell, between the first two trilithons on your right and left, 43 feet ; the distance from the altar-stone to the entrance into the temple is 57 feet 4 inches, and the whole area included within the ditch is said to contain one acre and a quarter of ground. With regard to the natural quality of the stones the Friar's heel, the slaughtering-stone, the two stones near the vallum, those which «ompose the outer circle, and the trilithons of the larger oval, are all Sarien stones, such as are still found in great numbers in North Wilts, between Abury and Marlborough, where they are popularly known by the name of the Gray Wethers. The stones of this kind at Stonehenge are supposed to have been brought from that neigh- stonehenge.— the nature of ihe stones. Ill bourhood ; hut the supposition is surely gratuitous and unnecessary Ihey are descnbed as a fine-grained species of siHceous sand-stone " the wreck of strata," says Dr. Buckland, " whose softer materials have been entirely washed away." The theory that accounts for their position on the surface of the downs supposes that a stratum of sand once covered the chalk, and that at the time of the deluge the softer portions of this stratum were washed away, and these enormous blocks of sand-stone were left behind, stranded as it were by the retiring flood. One would naturally think that this general diluvial action must have scattered stones of the same description all over the chalky surface of the downs ; and hence we see no reason for resorting to North Wilts for the Sarsen stones, of which Stonehenge is principally composed. Why might they not have been originally found in the immediate neighbourhood ? The largest blocks would have been employed in the construction of Stone henge; and the gradual disappearance of the rest from the adjacent plains during the lapse of ages is not only probable in itself, but seems to derive confirmation from an undoubted analogous fact in North Wilts ; where. Sir R. C. Hoare informs us, " the celebrated field, called from them the Grey Wethers, no longer presenta even a single atone, for they have all been broken to pieces for building and for repairing the roads." We may add, that detached stones of this description are still to be found at no great distance from Stone henge, and appear to have been formerly much more numerous than they are at present. " I have found several of these kind of large stones," says Dr. Stukely, " either travelling to Stonehenge or from it. One, as big as any at Stonehenge, lies about three miles off northward, in Durrington fields^ Another in the water at Mil ford— (It has been suggested that this is a misprint for Milstone) — another at Figheldean. They seem to have been earned back to make bridges, miUdams, or the like, in the river. There is another in the London-road, east from Ambresbury, about a mile from the town. Another in the water at Bulford. A stone stands leaning at Preshute farm, near the church, as big as those at Stonehenge." The temple at Abury was wholly composed of these Sarsen stones ; that of Stonehenge only partially so. The smaller circle and the interior oval are of granite, hora-stone, &c. The altar-stone has been described as " a kind of gray cos, a very fine-grained cal careous sand-stone, which makes a brisk effervescence in nitrous acid, but dissolves not in it ; strikes fire with steel, and contains some minute spangles of silver mica." Speaking of the stones of the smaller circle and the inner oval, Mr. Cunnington says, " they 112 stranger's HA^¦DB00K TO SALISBURY. were most probably brought from some part of Devonshire or Corn wall, as I know not where such stones could be procured at a neater distance." In reference to the same parts of the structure, Stukeley remarks, that they are of a harder kind of stone than tha rest; and of those composing the interior oval, he says, " they were brought somewhere from the west." The reader will pro bably recollect the legendary stories of Giraldus Cambrensis and others, who relate that the stones of Stonehenge were conveyed by. Merlin's magic from the Curragh of Kildare, in Ireland, whither they had been brought in times remote by giants from Africa. Sir R. C. Hoare does not disdain to notice these traditions', and with great good sense remarks that " some portion of truth is often in termixed with fable." Mr. Higgins (author of Celtic Druids) informs us, that he broke off a small.part of one of the stones of the inner oval, which he got polished, and submitted to one of the first geologists in London ; who, on seeing it, without having the least suspicion where it came from, said it looked Uke an .African stone ; but, if it were British, he thought it must have come from Anglesey. Mr. H. adds, that this stone is now in the collection of the Geological Society, to which he presented it. ^ Of not less interest than Stonehenge itself are the graves of those who once worshipped there. And now entombed lie at Stonehenge by the heath. — Spewser. Beneath the gTassy knolls that heave like billows all around, moulder the bones and ashes of many a British Druid, Bard, and King I Generations whose very existence history would affect to treat as fabulous, because they passed away ere she was born, here confront us with monuments of themselves more enduring than those of marble, brass, or adamant, and as fresh and unfading at the pre sent hour as they were thousands of years ago ! The Antiquity of these sepulchral memorials of an aboriginal race may be judged of from the fact, that not a single Roman coin or other vestige of the conquerors of the world has been discovered within them ; whence it is concluded that this mode of sepulture had been discontinued on the AViltshire downs before the Roman dominion penetrated to this part of the island. Passing near th hallow'd ground. The Rom n gazed upon the mound, And murmur'd with a secret sigh. There in the dust the mighty lie ! — Bowles. ^ Celtic Druids, vii. note. STONEHENGE. — THE CURSUS. 113 The Barrows have been distinguished into four classes : Long- barrows, Bowl-barrows, Bell-barrows, and Druid-barrows. The latter consist of one or more small tutnuH inclosed in a large circular trench, sometimes a hundred feet in diameter ; Stukeley conjectures that they were family burial-places. And three different modes of interment have been observed : in the first, the skeleton has the knees gathered up to the head ; in the second, it is found extended at full length ; and iu the third, the body has been burnt, and the ashes deposited in an urn. The Avenue, before mentioned, issues from the N. E. entrance of the Temple, crosses the turnpike-road, and proceeds in a straight line for a distance of 594 yards towards a valley. It there divides itself into two branches, of which one goes directly east up the hill, between two groups of Barrows planted with fir-trees,' and the other leads in a north-westerly direction to the Cursus. The CursUSi or. Race-course, lies about half a mile to the north of Stonehenge, and is inclosed between two parallel banks and ditches, running east and west. It measures 110 yards in breadth, and extends one mile, five furlongs, and 176 yards in length. " A dehghtful prospect from the Temple," says Stukeley, " when this vast plain was crowded with chariots, horsemen, and foot, attending these solemnities with innumerable multitudes !" An oblong elevated mound is thrown across the east end, resembling a Long Barrow. This is supposed to have been the seat of honour, where the judges of the prizes and the principal spectators were stationed, as it commands an advantageous view of the whole Course. At the distance of 55 yards from the east end, Sir R. C. Hoare remarks that the course is evidently rounded off, as if the horses or chariots made a turn at that point. Not far from the west end, a sHght bank runs across the whole breadth of the course. In the area thus cut oft', between the transverse bank and the western extremity, are two barrows, both of which were opened by Sir R. C. Hoare. That to the south was found to contain, at the depth of three feet, the skeleton of an adult, with a drinking cup, and ou the floor of the barrow, another of a child. In a shallow- cist was afterwards found the third skeleton of a man lying with his head to the north ; and close to it on the right side was a curious pebble, and under his left hand a dagger of brass. The other barrow contained only a simple interment of burnt bones. Sir Richard iThe Northern Group is called the Old King Barroios. and the Southern he New King Barrows. I 114 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. was of opinion that these barrows had stood upon the plain long before the formation of the Course. A little to the north is another smaller Cursus, with a bank similarly thrown across it, nol far from the west end. On the larger Cursus, historical and Bardic tradition has fixed the spot where the fatal banquet took place, at which the Britons were treacherously slain by Hengist and his Saxons, about the year 472. Temporary buildings of rudely-hewn timber are said to have been erected for the accommodation of the assembly, and the time appointed for the conference was May, the season at which the solemn anniversary of the British Mysteries was held. " The feast was celebrated, and the outrage committed," says Mr. Davies, " upon the Cursus, at the distance of half a mile from the temple, and to which one ofthe avenues leads." ' And Hengist, seeming sad for that was donne. Received is to grace and new accord, Through his faire daughter's face and flattring word. Soone after which three hundred lords be. slew Of British blood, all sitting at bis bord ; "Whose dolefull moniments who list to rew, Th' eternall marks of treason may at Stonehenge vew. Spenser's Faerie Queen, Book II. Canto X. 66. We would recommend the visitor to Stonehenge, in going or re turning, to pass through the valley of the Avon. This district, popularly called the Bourns (from the Saxon word bourn, signifying a stream), is sing-ularly luxuriant and romantic in the character ot its scenery, and abounds in objects of antiquarian and historical in terest. On the east bank of the river extends the parish of Great Dumford, including the Tithings of North and South End, Netton, Salterton, and Little Durnford. The Church of Great Durnford, though unpromising in its exterior, has some fine remains of rich Norman architecture, and a curious brass plate to the memory of the family of Tounge. On the neighbouring hill is an ancient earth-work, called Ogbury Camp, supposed by Stukeley to have- been a Camp of Refuge, whither the Britons retreated in times of danger with their famihes and herds of cattle. On some high ground adjoining, Sir R. C. Hoare discovered the widicia of a British place of residence — " numerous bones of animals with frag ments of the rudest British pottery."^ ^ (Mythalogy of ihe British Druids, 370, note.') ^ Ancient Wiltshire, vol. 1, p. 220. HEALE HOUSE. 113 Thesame authority asserts, that Great Durnford is more fertile inBritish and Norman antiquities than any other parish alon" the Hne of the Avon. Passing through Little Ambresbury and Normanton Farm on the toeat bank of the Avon, we enter the parish of Wilsford, in the Hundred of Underditch. Lake House, the seat of the Rev. E. Duke, is situated in this district. It is an exceedingly picturesque and well-preserved specimen of the old English mansion of the time of James the First. In the park are some very fine barrows, planted with fir-trees, the plumy tufted appearance of which struck us as pecuUarly elegant. Stukeley, if we remember right, speaks of Lake as a British family burial-place; and Mr. Duke informed us that he discovered on his estate the vestiges of a British village. This gentleman, the late proprietor of Lake, was honourably distin guished by the zeal and ability with which he devoted himself through life to the elucidation of our local and national antiquities, llis " Halle of John HaUe " ' has been already mentioned. Mr. Duke afterwards gave to the world a work of still more recondite research, entitled " The Druidical Temples of the County of WUts," i in which he propoimds a novel and comprehensive theory of Abury, Stonehenge, &c. On the same side of the river, below Lake, is Heale House, where Charles the Second was secreted for some days in his flight after the battle of Worcester. To use the Royal fugitive's own words : " I went directly away to a widow gentlewoman's house, one Mrs. Hyde, some four or five miles from Salisbury, where I came into the house just as it was almost dark, with Robin Philips only, not intending at first to make myself known." Mrs. Hyde, however, immediately recognised him, having seen him some years before when he passed through Salisbury with his father. She was " so transported with joy and loyalty towards him, that at supper, though his Majesty was set at the lower end of the table, yet the good gentlewoman had much ado to overcome herself and not to carve to him first ; however, she could not refrain from drinking to him in a glass of wine, and giving him two larks, when others had but one." After supper he made himself known to Mrs. Hyde, and it was arranged that he should leave the house on the following morning, as if intending to take his depar ture, and not return again tiU night. " So Robin Philips and I took our horses," says Charles in the narrative which he himself Both of these works may be procured of our publishers. I 2 IIG stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. dictated to Pepys, " and went as far as Stonehenge ; and there we staid looking upon the stones for some time, ' and returned back again to Heale, the place where Mrs. Hyde lived, about the hour she appointed ; when I went up into the hiding-hole, that was very convenient and safe, and staid there all alone (Robin PhiHps then going away to Salisbury) some four or five days." At the end of this time, the arrangements for his escape to the coast were com pleted, and he left Heale House at two o'clock in the morning, going out by the backway. The estate of Heale subsequently passed from the family of Hyde into that of Bowles, and is now, we believe, in the possession of G. Loder, Esq. The present house is but a part of the original man sion. Following " the river's course, the valley's playful windings," we come to Lower Woodford, where we can cross the Avon by a bridge to Little Dumford, whenca the road conducts to Stratford, or as cending the high down on the west bank of the river, we enter the Devizes road at the point where it is met by the road to Wilton. About half a mile or so from this point, we may observe a pecuHar long-drawn valley, that runs for a considerable distance in a line nearly parallel to the Devizes road, and about a hundred paces to the right of it, as you proceed from the intersection of the cross roads to Sahsbury. A copse is planted along the brow of the far ther side of this valley,^ and a visual or imaginary line from Old Sarum to Wilton, passing through the hoHow, about the middle of the copse, will mark the situation of The Field op the Tourna ment. ¦* This was one of the five places appointed for tourneying n England, in the reign of Richard I. The King's charter or letter i 1 Colonel Robert Philips, who at this time lived in Salisbury, and was Charles's companion in his ride to Stonehenge, says that " the King's arith metic gave the lie to the fabulous tale that those stones cannot be told alike twice together." = King Charles's Escape from Worcester, and the Boscobel Tracts in Bohn's Extra Volume. 3 This copse, which was planted by the late Lord Pembroke, lies to th left as you go from Salisbury. A pathway, a continuation of tbit from Stratford Mill, conducts from the Devizes road, crosses the Valley of the Tournament, and, skirting the copse, leads into the Wilton road. * For this precise indication of the Tournament Field, I am indebted to my revered Friend Dr. Fowler, who kindly accompanied me to the spot and pointed it out.— J. B. the VALLEY OF THE TOURNAMENT. 117 patent authorising the Tournaments was specially committed to the keeping of William, Eari of Salisbury, and is dated at Ville I'Evesche, in Normandy, August 22, 1194. " Know ye that we have granted that tournaments may be kept in England in five steads, to wit, betwixt Salisbury and Wilton, &c., &c." An earl was to pay 20 marks of silver for Hcence to tourney, a baron 10, a knight with land 4, and a knight without land 2 ; and no knight was to be permitted to join in the sports unless he had first paid to the King the prescribed sum. A spot better adapted for celebrating and witnessing these splendid and heroic games could not have been chosen. The bottom of the valley is flat, aftbrding a sufficient level space for the evolutions and careering of the knights ; and its sloping sides are capable of accommodating with ease thousands and tens of thousands of spectators. The stirring scene that the Valley op the Tournament exhibited in the chivalrous days of Richard Coeur de Lion may be pictured to the mind's eye from the following animated passage in Strutt's Sports and Pastimes : — " At the celebration of these pastimes, the lists were superbly decorated, and surrounded by thc pavilions belonging to the champions, ornamented with their arms, banners, and banneroUs. The scaffolds for the reception of the nobiHty of both sexes who came as spectators, and those especially appointed for the royal family, were hung with tapestry and embroideries of gold and silver. Every person, upon such occa sions, appeared to the greatest advantage, decked in sumptuous aiTay, and every part ofthe field presented to the eye a rich display of magnificence. We may also add, the splendid appearance of the knights engaged in the sports : themselves and their horses were most gorgeously arrayed, and their esquires and pages, together with the minstrels and heralds who superintended the ceremonies, were aU of thera clothed in costly and glittering apparel. Such a show of pomp, where wealth, beauty, and grandeur were concentred, as it were, in one focus, must altogether have formed a wonderful spectacle, and made a strong impression on the mind, which was not a little heightened by the cries of the heralds, the clangour of the trumpets, the clashing of the arms, the rushing together of the combatants, and the shouts of the beholders ; and hence the popularity of these exhibitions may be easily accounted for." ' » Book III., Chap. 1. Btdim t|t ^M\\i\. Wilton— Wilton House— Sir Philip Sidney's Arcadia — " Sidney's Sister Pembroke's Mother " — The New Church — Bemerton, &c. Wilton, three mUes west of Sahsbury, is situate at the confluence of the rivers Wily and Nadder. From the former it derives its name, which it afterwards communicated to the county, Wiliunesdre. For the civil history and an account of the numerous ecclesiastical foundations of this ancient boroush, we refer the reader to the '^:^*=^^' kJ^± i Ii ¦*r'* i t ""^i WILTON HOUSE. topographical works of Hoare, Britton, and others, our design confining us to a notice of those two objects of popular attraction, Wilton House and the New Church. Wilton House, the princely seat of the Earis of Pembroke, is erected on the site of a celebrated nunneiy of the Benedictine order ^ WILTON HOUSE, 119 which, with its revenues and estates, was granted, 35 Hen. 8, to Sir William Herbei-t, who was created Earl of Pembroke in the reign of Edward the Sixth. According to Aubrey, the old part of Wilton House was built by Hans Holbein. A portion of the . building was destroyed by fire in 1647-8, when the south side was rebuilt as it at present appears from a design by Inigo Jones. It is 194 feet in length, and is esteemed a handsome specimen of that architect's abihties. The wings of the east front are also attributed to Inigo Jones. The arched gateway (a part of the original structure) has recesses on each side of it, in which are two statues of black marble, that were taken out of the ruins of the palace in Egypt, in which the Persian Viceroys lived, after the conquest of that country by Cambyses. At the beginning of the present century, the mansion was altered and enlarged by James Wyatt, who erected the corridors or cloisters in which the statuary is displayed, gothicised the north side of the building, and made many considerable dis-improvements iu the east front, though it is allowed that he added much to the convenience and comfort of the internal arrangements. The approach from Salisbury is under a triumphal arch, surmounted with an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, from which a spacious court-yard conducts to the north entrance of the Mansion. The Hall displays several suifs of ancient armour (trophies and memorials of the battle of St. Quintin, in which the Eaii of Pembroke commanded the EngHsh forces),^ and opens into the Cloisters. These form a quadrangle about an open court, and are filled with the magnificent collection of ancient sculpture, which comprises the choicest selections from the galleries of Lord Arundel, Giustiniani, and Valetta, of Naples, some antiques from the cabinet of Mazarine, after its incorporation with that of Richelieu, and many other valuable curiosities procured from diff'erent parts of the continent. Thomas, the eighth Eaii, formed this collection, " unri- vaUed," says Noble, " by any subject." The attendant who shows the house is furnished with a catalogue of the statues, bustos, rehevos, &c.^ On leaving the Cloisters, the visitor is conducted through a superb range of apartments, the walls of which are hung with paintings bv the first masters ; the collection of Vandykes being" we beheve', one of the finest in Englaud. From a window ' Sir George Penruddocke, at that time M.P. for Wilts, was the Earl o Pembroke's Standard-bearer at the batlle of St. Quintin, in 1557. 2 A detailed list will also be found in " Wilton and its associations," by- James Smith. Brown and Co., Salisbury. 120 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. at the south-east angle of the house is obtained a view of Salisbury Cathedral in visto, the effect of which is almost magical. In the Double Cube Room, 60 feet by 30, is the celebrated family picture, by Vandyke, which is 17 feet in length by 11 in height, and con tains ten"whole-length figures, the two principal of which are Philip, Eari of Pembroke, and his Lady, who are represented in a sitting pos ture. On their right hand stand their five sons, Charies, Lord Her bert, Philip, William, James, and John ; on their left, their daughter Anna Sophia, and her husband, Robert Eari of Caernarvon ; before them, Lady Mary, daughter of George, Duke of Buckingham, and wife to Charies, Lord Herbert ; and above, in the clouds, are two sons and a daughter who died young. The other portraits in the Great Cube Room, are King Charles the First and his Queen, William Eari of Pembroke, the first wife ofthe second Eari Philip, three children of Charles the First, the Duchess of Richmond, and Mrs. Gibson, the dwarf, the Duke of Richmond and Lennox, the Countess of Castlehaven, the second Earl Philip, &c. No words can do justice to the air noble and the atmosphere of life, as it were, that the great master has thrown around the whole of this illus trious assemblage. The ceihng of this unrivalled apartment is painted by Signer Tomaso, and represents several stories of Per seus. The Library is also a noble apartment, very long and spacious, and contains a portrait of Sir WiUiam Herbert, tbe founder of the family, by Hans Holbein. The Flower-gardens, to which a flight of steps descends from the Library, are laid out in the Italian style, with parterres, statues, fountains, &c. ; the celebrated porch, by Holbein, forming a beautiful terminus to the vista. In the Park are some of the largest Cedars of Lebanon to be seen in England : " No grounds," says Sir R. C. Hoare, " can afford such a grand assemblage of cedar trees." There is also a magnificent specimen of the ilex, the gigantic spreading arras of which are fastened up to the trunk by chains. One is reminded of a passage in the Arcadia: "About it (as if it had beene to inclose a theatre) grew such sort of trees, as either excellency of fruit, statelinesse of growth, continual green- nesse, or poetical fancies, have made at any time famous." To the south of the mansion a noble bridge, from a design by Palladio, with an open Ionic colonnade of most elegant and pictu resque eflect, is thrown across the river Nadder that winds its way through the grounds, and joins its waters with those of the Wily, just without the park walls. It was in this delightful retreat that Sir Philip Sidney composed his Arcadia ; and, doubtless, in- WILTON CHUUCH. 121 spired by the contemplation of the scene before his eyes, penned such eloquent rhapsodies as the following : " Lord ! doth not the pleasantness of this place carry in itselfe sufiicient reward for any time lost in it ? Do you not see how all things conspire together to make this a heavenly dwelling ? Do you not see the grasse, how iu colour they excell the emeralds, every one striving to passe his - fellow, and yet they are all kept of an equall height ? And see you not the rest of these beautifull flowers, each of which would require a man's wit to know, and his life to expresse ? Do not these stately trees seem to maintaine their flourishing old age with the only happinesse of their seat, being clothed with a continuall spring, because no beauty here should ever fade ? Doth not the aire breathe health, which the birds (delightfuU both to eare and eie) do daily solemnize with the sweet consent of their voyces ? Is not every eccho there of a perfect musick .' And these fresh and delightfuU brooks how slowly they slide away, as loth to leave the company of so many things united in perfection ! And with how- sweet a murmure they lament their forced departure !'" Sidney dedicated his Romance to his sister Mary, Countess of Pembroke, at whose request the work was undertaken. " You desired me to doe it," he writes, "and your desire to my heart is an absolute commandement. . . . Your deare selfe can best witnesse the manner, being done on loose sheets of paper, most of it in your presence, the rest by sheets sent unto you as fast as they were done." This celebrated lady has been immortaHzed by Ben Jouson's well- known epitaph ; — Underneath this marble herse Lies the subject of all verse, Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother : — Death, ere thou hast slain another, Wise, and fair, and good as she. Time shall throw a dart at thee ! She lies buried in Salisbury Cathedral : it is strange, as Lodge re marks, that these Hues should never have appeared on her tomb. Massinger, whose father was a retainer of the Pembroke family, is said to have been born at Wilton House. He was interred in the ehurchyard of St. Saviour's, Southwark, the register of which parish has the following entry :— March 20, 1639, 40, buried Philip Massinger, A Stranger. The new Church at Wilton, dedicated to St. Mary and St. ' The Countesse of Pembroke's Arcadia, lib. I. 122 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUEY Nicholas, is of the ItaHan Romanesque, or Lombard style of ar chitecture. It stands west and east, not east and west according to the usual disposition ; the principal front towards the street look ing east, and the altar being placed at the west. The general plan is the oblong square of a BasiHca, with three semi-circular termi nations (absidea) at the altar-end, and a Bell-tower and Sacristry on the south. The Churcli, which is situated in an extensive open "WILTON CUURCH. area, well displayed on all sides and elevated on a platform, is ap proached from the street by a flight of six steps of Portland stone, the lowest of which is about 100 feet in length. The entrance front is very imposing, and marked with the characteristic orna ments of the Lombard style. It has three portals opening to the nave and aisles. The central one consists of recessed semi-circular arches, richly and variously moulded, with a projecting canopy or hood supported by twisted columns resting on lions. The side doors are of a corresponding character, with a neat niche above, and twin arches higher up. Above the grand central entrance is THE ALTAR OF WIITON CHURCH. 123 an arcade of nine narrow windows ; over which expands a very beautiful rose-window, sixteen feet in diameter, with twelve richly- carved compartments fUled with stained glass. The Rose is set in a square frame, in the angles of which are the Evangelistic symbols. Above soars the figure of an Angel in semi-relief, and the whole elevation is suraaonnted by the cross. The square Lombard Bell- tower, or Campanile, on the south side, is also a characteristic and remarkable feature, and is said to resemble the Campanile of St. Mark's at Venice. It is 100 feet in height, and stands at the distance of 20 feet from the main building, with which it is con nected by an open corridor or cloister, supported by two rows of coupled columns of most elaborate execution, each column of a different design, standing on a basement or plinth. The carved work of this cloister is of the richest description ; and over the door which leads into the Church is a maze of florid tracery, inwreath- ing the initials of the munificent founder of the building, the Eight Honourable Sidney Herbert. Beyond the Campanile, on the same side, the Sacristy projects in the form of an ornamental porch. The other sides are comparatively plain. The triapsidal termination of the Altar-end has been already noticed. The middle Apse is ornamented by a series of attached slender shafts, running up and terminating in capitals under the corbel-table. Its upper part (as is the case with each of the side-apses) is pierced with narrow round-headed windows, and in the lower part is the en trance to the vault of the Herbert family. An ornamented gilt Cross rises from the point of the roof, and forms an elegant finish to that end of the building. On the north side, under a projecting canopy, is a sarcophagus inserted in the wall. A Latin inscription on a brass plate records, that within it are deposited some human remains that were dug up in excavating for the foundations of the present church, on or near the site of which an ancient church (the traces of which were met with) existed centuries ago. The edifice is entirely faced with fr-ee-stone, and the general effect of the ex terior is chaste, light, and graceful. Entei-mg by the grand portal in the principal front, we pass through a groined porch, rich in carved foliage, and presenting '^twisted columns with capitals of pecuUar elegance, into the body of the church. Immediately opposite the door, in the central avenue, is the Font, a large and beautiful structure of various- coloured marbles, which was brought from Italy. We may remark, that it exhibits panels of white marble inlaid with bunches of grapes andvine-leaves— a piece of symbolism much affected by the early 134 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. Christians, who adopted this and other Bacchic emblems as allu sive to Christ's vineyard, the Church : " I am the vine, ye are the WILTO.V CHCaCH, LOOKING TOWAROS THE ALTAH. branches," &c. ' The area of the Church is unencumbered with pews ; the seats, which are of oak, being all open, and many ' " In the ceiling of Constantino's Baptistry, near the Church of Santa Agnese, we see the processes of the vintage, by which, in the first Church, were typified the holy works of the Christians." — Hope's Historical Essay on Architecture, p. 171. See also 83, 180, 181, Sec. WILTON CHURCH. 125 of them marked " Free." A gahery fiUs the whole of the east end: it is supported by marble columns with alabaster capitals, and faced with a most elaborately-wrought screen of Bath, Paiuswick, and Chilmark stone, along the top of which runs the text, cut in antique characters, " AH things come of Thee, and of Thine own have we given Thee." Near tlie gallerv jallery. I 11 WILTON CHDRCK, LOOKING WEST. on the south side, at the entrance from the CampanUe, is an orna mental door-case : it is composed of .two twisted columns of black marble, fianked by pilasters of inlaid mosaic, and surmounted by a monument (brought from the old church), in whieh are kneehng figures and a tablet inscribed to the memory of a retainer of the Pembroke family of the name of Sharpe, who died in 1636. The 126 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. adjoining window, as is the opposite one in the north aisle, is fiUed with stained glass of the most lively colours. The doors under the gaUery, and that at the entrance from the south porch, have carved panels of old oak, the subjects and execution of which are curious and well worthy of minute inspection. The pavement of the central and diverging alleys is inlaid with a coloured border of ornamental crosses. The roofing of the nave and aisles, the former of considerable elevation, is of open wood-work, stained to imitate dark oak or chestnut. The windows of the clerestory consist each of double lights, with a circular head, reHeved by columns within and without. Lower down is a series of small arcades, extending the whole length of the Church, and producing the effect of a tri forium story. The arches of the grand arcade, which are circular, rest on round pillars of Bath stone, with exquisitely-chiseled capitals of most elaborate design, each varying from the other in , details, but bearing a general resemblance to the graceful luxu riance of the Corinthian order. An examination of the subjects and composition of these rich and elegant capitals, which are full of Christian symbolism, will well repay the trouble of an attentive perusal. We may remark, in passing, that within and without the Church has upwards of seven hundred carved capitals, aU of dif ferent designs. Before the pulpit we involuntarily pause, arrested by its dazzling and imposing appearance, and the exuberant rich ness of its decorations. It is of unusually large dimensions, and forms a quarter of a circle concentric with one of the pillars of the nave. It is composed of Caen stone, and supported by numerous marble pillars with carved alabaster capitals, above which runs a delicate painted border, with a cornice carved and gilt. Its circum ference is divided into eight compartments, five of which are inlaid with panels of variegated marbles of surpassing beauty, separated from each other by four twisted columns glittering with ancient mosaic : the three others, which are fiHed with the instruments of the Passion inwreathed with flowing scroUs gilt and painted, aU cut out ofthe Caen stone, are subdivided by broad pilasters of the most vivid modern mosaic ; and around the top of the pulpit circulates a brilHant zone of the same resplendent material. The Eagle-lectern is of wood, carved and gUt. The Prayer-desk is of simple but not inelegant construction, and offers a very fine specimen of wood- carving, executed in prominent rehef. The group in front repre sents the EvangeHsts with their appropriate emblems, and at the sides are figures of the Centurion and St. John the Baptist. The Chancel, to which there is an ascent of six steps, is divided from WILTON CHURCH. 1 27 the Nave by a triumphal arch, with two lofty ScagHola columns. The rads are of ilex-wood, the pedestals inlaid with mosaic ; the floor is covered with a tesselated pavement, and the roof is groined and painted, an azure ground studded with stars, with the Evan- gehcal emblems at the sides, and in the centre the Cross, &c., with the words Salus Mundi. The Chancel walls are inscribed with the Ten Commandments, and various appropriate texts of Scripture are distributed over the arches and waUs adjacent. Three steps of rich Sienna marble, 18 feet in length, lead to the Apse or Sanc tuary, in the cliord of which stands the Communion-table. The pavement, which is partly tesselated, is principally composed of a splendid mosaic-work of marbles of different colours, interlaid and combined in a design of the utmost variety and richness. The curve of the Apse is occupied by seven stone aedilia, in accordance with the ancient Basilican arrangement by which this part of the Church was assigned as the preshyterium, in which were the seats for the Bishop and clergy. The Reredos is composed of seven white marble arches resting on twisted columns of red Sienna marble, with carved alabaster capitals and pedestals of inlaid mosaic, the whole forming au arcade of seven compartments. In the central one is an enriched Cross, with the motto, "He was wounded for our transgressions ;" in four others are the Lord's Prayer, the Creed, and the Beatitudes, and., in the two outer ones the cross and sacred monograms. The various emblematic de vices and illuminated writing with which these compartments are filled, and the rich borders by which they are surrounded, were executed by Mr. William Osmond, jun., of Salisbury, and are very elegant specimens of the taste and talents of the artist. The arch of the Apse is superbly embelHshed, and on its sofBt are delineated the symboHcal triangle and the signs of the Zodiac. At its base, on either side, close to the wall, stands a low spiral mosaic column (resembling a serpent taper^), with a capital supporting a lamp. "The waHs and ceiling of this central Apse are painted with the most sumptuous luxuriance and prodigality of colour and decora tion; while the windows, which are seven in number, and filled with ancient stained glass iUustrative of a great variety of subjects, throw out their deep and variegated hues from amid the surround ing profusion of ornament, with overpowering intensity of richness and splendour. Here rubies are and emerald green. Here pearl and topaz bright ! ' See.Fosbroke's British Monachism and Hope's Historical Essay. 123 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. The Chancel is divided from its aisles by a wider central arch and two narrow lateral ones. The north chancel-aisle is occupied by several handsome monuments to members of the Pembroke family ; and contiguous is a fine memorial-window to the late Lady Shel burne. The Apse, the conch of which is painted, is perforated with five narrow lights filled with ancient stained glass. In the southern Apse, which is similar to that on the north, is placed a massive iron alms-chest, a ciirions piece of antique workmanship that was brought from Italy. In the south chancel-aisle, which is used as the Choir, stands the Organ, that was removed hither from Wilton House, and has been altered and enlarged by Mr. Bevington, of London, assisted by Mr. Prangley, of Salisbury. The aisles of the Chancel are respectively divided from those of the Nave by an arch, resting on columns of black gold veined marble, each in one block, and 18 feet in height. Adjoining the south chancel-aisle is the Vestry, the door of which is worthy of inspection from the number of carved panels of old oak it contains. On each side of it is a twisted column of mosaic, and over the lintel are painted the sacred Lamb, monograms and other devices, with the appropriate Scripture, " Let thy ministers be clothed with righteousness." The Church is 150 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 57 feet high internally. The Campanile, as has been already stated, is 100 feet in height, and contains a peal of six bells brought from the old Church. The architects were Messrs. Wyatt and Brandon ; the builders, Messrs. D. and C. Jones, of Bradford; and the clerk of the works, Mr. Edmund Spurr. The polychromatic decorations of the Chancel were executed by Mr. Willeraent, with the exception of that portion already particularised as the production of Mr. Osmond, jun., of Sahsbury. WUton Church was consecrated hy the Right Rev. Bishop Denison on the 9th of October, 1845. An excellent article descriptive of Wilton Chui-ch and its conse cration appeared in the Salisbury Journal of October 11th, 1845. A short notice of it occurs in The Builder, No CXLl., October Isj 1845 ; and it forms the subject of a lengthy critical dissertation in the Ecclesiologist, No. LIII., November, 1846. The first carpet ever manufactured in England was made at Wilton. The manufacture is still carried on there to some consider able extent. Half-way betvveen Wilton and Salisbury is the secluded village of Bemerton, In the church are buried George Herbert, author of bemerton. 129 •" The Temple,"' &c., and Norris, the eminent divine and metaphy sician, both of whom were Rectors of the parish, and lived at the parsonage house adjoining the church. The celebrated historian, the late Archdeacon Coxe, was also Rector of Bemerton, and occa sionally resided there. ' Inthe beautiful edition of the poetical works of George Herbert, illus trated from designs by Humphreys, Clayton, and Poster, and published by Nisbet and Co., there are several very pretty views of Bemerton Church aud Parsonage House. IdiM t\i ^ig^t|. Longford Castle-Ivy Church-Clarendon Palace-Council of Clarendon- Thomas A'Becket and Henry the Second -Constitutions of Clarendon- Apartments in the Palace in the time of Henry the Third, etc.— Present appearance of the Ruins. Longford Castle, the seat of the Eari of Radnor, lies about three miles S.E. of Salisbury, and is »ituated in an extensive park *- 4 .. ' ' 1 . ^tlil""" ¦?! It 5 ^V >A^'K ..^w- LONGFORD CASTLE. on the left hand side of the road to Downton and Eordingbridge. It was built by Sir Thomas Gorges, who married Helena Snachen berg, maid of honour to Queen BHzabeth, and Marchioness Dowager of Northampton. At the instance of this lady. Sir Thomas pulled down the old mansion of the Cervingtons, former proprietors of Longford, and began another, " on the plan," as we are told, "of the Castle of Uraniberg, built by Tycho Brahe, which he com pleted about the year 1591. Its form was that of a triangle flanked LONGFORD CASTLE. 131 with large circular towers, inclosing a smaH open court of simikr shape, with staircase-turrets at the internal angles. The building was formerly surrounded by a moat, supplied by an inlet of the Avon, and approached by draw-bridges. During the Civil War, in 1644, it was placed at the service of the King ; " who," says Lord Clarendon, " sent all his great cannon to a garrison he had withiu two miles of Salisbury, at Langford, a house of the Lord Garges, where was a garrison of one hundred men, commanded by a good officer.' On the 18th of October, 1 645, it surrendered to Lieutenant General Oliver Cromwell,^ who had erected his battery in Pick- mead, opposite the garden front. Longford nearly proved the last scene of Cromwell's career ; for while with some officers he was taking a survey of the house, preparatory to his intended attack (which, however, never took place), " a shot from it kiUed a Captain Lieutenant close by his side, and scarcely missed himself." The Longford estate was sold by Edward the second Lord Gorges, in 1641, to Hugh Hare, Baron of Coleraine, who was extremely partial to the spot, and resided for a time at a small house at Britford, while the Castle was held by the Royalists ; but unable auy longer to witness the havoc and devastation that were daily committed in constructing the military works necessary for the defence of the place, he obtained the King's permission to retire from the West. In 1717 the property was purchased by Sir Edward Bouverie, in whose posterity it still remains.^ Longford Castle has undergone great alterations at different periods, and was formerly a much more ornamental building than it is at present. The late Lord Radnor proposed to take down the triangular mansion of the Gorges, and erect on its site a hexagonal structure on a more extensive scale, with six towers at the external angles and a larger tower in the centre. A model of the intended buildmg may be seen in the entrance-hall. The design, however, was never completed, and seems to be now altogether abandoned; and Longford Castle is at present an irregular unfinished pile, flanked with five towers. The principal facade towards the north west was formerly adorned with ^caryatides, pilastres, balustrades, 1 Hist, of the Rebellion, Book VIII., page 507.— Oxford, 1843. 2 The next place be attempted was Langford-house, near Salisbury, which was yielded iu a day or two upon articles. Major Ludloiv was appointed Governor " at Langford House, wherein the Parliament thought fit to keep a garrison by reason of its nearness to the eaemj."— Ludlow s Memoirs, Fol- 1, p. 158. ^ Hundred of Cawden. K 3 133 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBUKY. and a variety of other architectural ornaments, all of which have now disappeared. Opposite the south front are the elegant flower- gardens, which are laid out in the most consummate style of orna mental art. The park, though in general rather flat, is by no means of a tame or monotonous character. The grounds are richly wooded, and command some pleasing sylvan views, with the tower of Downton Church to the South, and the spire of Sahsbury Cathedral on the north-west ; and the Avon, which is here a considerable river, flows close by the Castle, and, winding in bold sweeps through a broad and fertile vaHey, gives life and variety to the landscape. Of the interior of the mansion, we may briefly remark, that the entrance-hall is a weH-proportioned apartment, containing, in addition to the model already noticed (which was designed by James Wyatt), a view ofthe town of Folkestone, in Kent, by Mar- low. In the biUiard-room adjoining are some portraits of members of the Bouverie family. But the principal attraction at Longford are the paintings, which are distributed through the range of apart ments on the south side of the Castle, This collection, which is even more extensive than that at Wilton House, is exceedingly valuable and interesting, and contains some of the choicest productions of the first masters. We may particularise a large Landscape by Teniers, with hunting figures and dogs ; but more especially the celebrated Morning and Evening of Claude Lor- raiu, an allegorical representation of the rise and fall of the Roman Empire. In the former, the sun is rising on the bay of Naples, and jdineas is seen landing ; the temple of the Sibyls is introduced, and the island of Caprea appears in the distance. The decline of the Roman glory is represented by a sun-set, with the arch of Titus, the Coliseum, and other buildings in ruins. We may likewise notice Saint Sebastian suffering martyrdom, designed by Michael Angelo, and painted by Sebastian del Piombo ; also two fine pictures by Nicolas Poussin, the Passage of the Red Sea, and the Adoration of the Golden Calf; and an original portrait of Erasmus, by Holbein, brought into England by that artist as a specimen of his skill, with an introductory letter from Erasmus, - to Sir Thomas More. A pendant to this is a curious portrait, by the same artist, of iEgidius, the friend of Erasmus, whose marriage is the subject of one of the Colloquies, Epithalamium Petri AUgidii. But the names of some of the great masters whose works compose the coUection will convey a more adequate conception of its general merits than any brief imperfect notices of particular paint ings. In addition to the productions of other eminent artists, the LONGFORD CASTLE. 133 valuable collection of Longford comprises pieces by Gaspar Poussin, Teniers, Rembrandt, Wouvermans, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Van- dyck, Rysdael, Cuyp, Corn. Jansen, Vandervelde, Ludovico Caracci, Tintoret, Spagnoletto, Julio Romano, Cario Maratti, Holbein, Seb! Ricci, Albert Durer, Parmegiano, Guide, Claude Lorrain, Nicolas Poussin, Corregio, Cario Dolce, Velasquez, Andrea del Sarto, Michael Angelo, and Sebastian del Piombo, &o., &0.1 A unique curiosity to be seen in one of the rooms is a steel chair, which was presented by the city of Augsburg to the Emperor Rodolphus the second, about the year 1577. It exhibits the arms of the city and the bust of the Emperor ; and in the large compart ment on the back is represented Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and the prophet Daniel expounding it to the King, who appears seated on his throne. The arms, legs, and back of the chair are covered with groups of figures, in more than 130 compartments, presenting a series of the most memorable events in Roman history, f'rom the destruction of Troy to the time of Rodolph himself. This chair was placed by the Emperor's command at Prague, where it re mained tin the sacking of the city by Gustavus Adolphus, who carried it away with him to Sweden. It is said to have been sub sequently brought into England by Gustavus Brander, Esq., who sold it to the late Lord Radnor. The artist who produced this extraordinary specimen of laborious ingenuity was named Thomas Rukers. In the same range of apartments is a circular room, on the second story of the tower, over the dining-room, which is fitted up as a Chapel. In an old plan of the Castle this is caHed the Queen's bed-chamber, "from which circumstance," says Britton, "it is concluded that the athletic Queen Bess sometimes slept in this apartment."^ It does not appear, however, that Ehzabeth ever slept at Longford; but that Lady Gorges, in anticipation of the honour of a visit from her royal mistress, designed this room as her sleeping apartment, and named it accordingly, is rendered probable from a curious piece of information derived from a manuscript in the possession of the Earl of Radnor.^ We learn that there was^ "some dispute, of a family nature, between the Lady Mary Sidney ' We understand a detailed catalogue of these paintings, with notes by J. S., has been published by Messrs. Brown sind Co., price Is. 2 Beauties of Wiltshire, Vol. I. 3 Compiled in the year 1678, by the Rev. Mr. Pelat, Chaplain to Lord Coleraine. 134 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. Countess of Pembroke, and Lady Gorges, and the Queen notfavom- ing the former. Lady Gorges gave out that her principal reason for building Langford was, that her Majesty might have a more com fortable lodge than Wilton House, when she came to Clarendon Park.'" Another anecdote, derived from the same source, is worth men tioning. It appears that, but for a lucky accident, the triangle of the Gorges' might long have remained as startling a geometrical nondescript and architectural abortion as the more ambitious hexagon of the modem Lords of Longford exhibits at the present day. Sir Thomas Gorges nearly sunk his fortune in sinkmg the foundations, " so great was the expense in driving piles, &c." But fortunately for Sir Thomas, the Spanish Armada threatened our coasts; and still more fortunately he had manried Helena Snachenberg, who, as tbe inscription on her monument in Salisbmy Cathedral records, was dear to Elizabeth for her beauty and her chastity. Sir Thomas was appointed Governor of Hurst Castle, and a Spanish galleon was wrecked near that place. Lady Gorges begged of the Queen the hull of the wrecked vessel ; in which, says Lord Coleraine's chaplain, were found bars of silver and other treasures, to an immense amount, that served to complete their pile at Longford. On the brow of the eminence, overlooking from the north-west the rich vale in which Longford Castle is situated, and not quite three miles from Salisbury, on the Southampton road, once stood the Augustinian Priory of Ivy Clmrch. ; or, the Ivied Monastery. It was founded by King Stephen, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. We are informed, that, by charters of Henry the Second, the Prior and Canons of Ivy Church received yearly pensions for their services in the chapels at Clarendon Palace. In the reign of Edward the Third, the community, which at the time consisted of a Prior and thirteen Canons, all perished in the great pestilence of 1 348-9, with the exception of one of the brethren, named James de Grounde- well. This " brotherless hermit, the last of his race," thereupon petitioned the King, who appointed him Prior, as if he had been duly elected. ^ The last Prior of Ivy Church was Richard Page, who was buried in Sahsbury Cathedral. His epitaph has been ' Hundred of Cawden, p. 29. ^ A list of the Priors of Ivy Church is given by Sir R. C. Hoare, at page 158 of his History of the Hundred of Alderbury. IVY CHURCH. 135 preserved by Gough, who says he copied it himself from a blue slab in the north aisle of the Choir. At the time of the disso lution, the yearly revenues, according to Speed, amounted to £133 Os. 7d. The site was granted, 36 Henry VIIL, to John Barwick. ' From a passage in Aubrey's MS. Wiltshire Collections, quoted by Sir R. C. Hoare, we learn that the celebrated Mary, Countess of Pembroke, " dehghted much in this place," and that her brother, Sir Philip Sidney, here composed a great part of the Arcadia. Aa this lady was " the subject of all verse," one Abraham Eraunce de dicated to her a volume of Poetry, entitled " The Countesse of Pembroke's Ivychurch ; " which, however, we are informed, con tains no further mention of the place than what appears in the title. In Sir Thomas Elyot's BibHotheca, a story " very like a whale," as Polonius says, is told of the " bones of a dead man," that were dug up here when Sir Thomas visited Ivy Church in the early part of the sixteenth century, and that measured 14 feet 10 inches when jouied together. Sir Thomas's father, it seems, carried away one of the teeth, " wluch was of the quantitee of a great walnutte." Without questioning the truth of the alleged discovery of animal remains of such magnitude in this place, we would only -suggest that they were not those of a dead man. A remark of Aubrey's in reference to a huge bone long preserved as a sort of family rehc at Stourton Castle, occurs to us as appHcable to this discovery at Ivy Church : " Mr. Camden makes mention in his Britannia of such bones, which he believes to be fishes' bones mis taken for men's. But why might they not be elephants' bones, for the Romans brought elephants into Britain ? " ^ Sir Thomas Elyot also informs us, that about the same time a book was dug up at Ivy Church, which was found between two hollow stones, and consisted of about twenty leaves of thick vellum. It appears, however, that the book might as well have lain where it was, for no one could read it, and the only word that was intelligible was Prytania; whence it was shrewdly concluded " That the sayed booke con- teined some aunoient monument of this yle." Ivy Church Academy, a highly-respectable estabhshment, con ducted by Mr. Sopp, occupies the delightful site of the ancient Priory. There can be no doubt that portions of the walls are remains of the old monastic structure. One of the buttresses is ' Tanner. '^ Addenda to Hundred of Mere, p. 8. 136 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. still standing, and on the side towards the garden the outhnes of arches, now filled up, can be distinctly traced. In the hall are two smaU images ; one of which, from the keys in its hands, has been* supposed to represent Saint Peter. But from the costume, which consists of chasuble, stole, maniple, and the pallium, with mitre and crosier, we should rather imagine it to be the effigy of some Arch bishop, and, from local considerations, most probably that of Saint Thomas, a Becket. In the kitchen of the pubHc-house called the i ^y -*-t -'^' ^fc '•*--•¦" .^^^' **(^^ "^ ' '. . .-.^i:-.*; 1 VVKll^^ IVY CHURCH ACADEMY. Green Dragon, in the adjacent village of Alderbury, is a spacious chimney-piece, measuring seven feet by two feet eight inches, which is supposed to have once belonged to the Priory. It is cut out of a solid block of Portland stone, and handsomely carved with a spreading arch, roses, fohage, and three shields of arms, the royal arms being in the centre. Engravings of this chimney-piece and the two figures are given in Sir R. C. Hoare's History qf the Hundred of Alderbury. Among the bequests in William Longspee's will occurs the fol- THE PALACE OF CLARENDON. 137 lowing : — Item, to the House ofthe Ivied Monastery, 50 ewes and 10 cows.^ Alderbury House, the seat of George Eort, Esq., was principaUy constructed of the stone of the ancient Belfry, that formerly stood to the north of the Cathedral in the Close of Sahsbury, and was taken down in 1789. Ivy Church was situated within the bounds of the Royal Eorest of Clarendon, near the north-western extremity of which, at the distance of rather more than a mile from the Priory, and about two miles east of Sahsbury, stood The Palace of Clarendon.— From the reign of Henry the First to that of Edward the Third, it was the frequent abode of royalty, and the scene of many remarkable events. The ear- hest charter granted to the borough of Wilton by Henry the First is dated at Clarendon in the year, as is supposed, 1116. King Stephen, as above mentioned, founded the Priory of Ivy Church within the precincts of the Forest, and was doubtless an occasional occupant of the neighbouring Palace. The Great Council or Par liament at which were enacted the memorable Constitutions of Clarendon, was assembled here by Henry the Second in the year 1164. Richard the First is supposed to have been at Clarendon, for in the Pipe Rolls of that, king occurs a charge for the carriage of the King's wine from Clarendon to Woodstock. His successor was so frequent a visitor at Clarendon, that, like many other places throughout the country, the occasional residences of that ubiquitous monarch, it retains the traditional name of King John's Palace. He was here almost every year from 1200 to 1215, and generally three or four times in each year. In 1207, John received at Cla rendon a part of the EngHsh regalia, which had been pledged in Germany for the payment of his brother Richard's ransom. Henry the Third often kept his Court here, and with greater magnificence than any of his predecessors ; and during the long reign of this monarch the Palace of Clarendon seems to have attained its highest degree of splendour. Edward the First was herein the years 1377, 1380, 1281, 1289, and 1290; as is proved by documents bearing those respective dates executed by him at Clarendon. In 1317, Edward the Second summoned a Parhament to meet here, which the barons, who were apprehensive of the designs of the king's favourites, refused to attend. In 1 Bowles's Lacock, 146. 188 stranger's HANDBOOK TO SALISBURY. 1331, Edward the Third directs the Sheriff of Wilts to put " our manor of Clarendon " into proper repair for the reception of his Oueen FhUippa, who was near her confinement, and who is supposed to have here given birth to Edward's eldest daughter Isabella, afterwards married to Ingelram de Couci, Earl of Soissons and Bedford.' In 1356, Philip deNavarre, brother of Charles the Bad, King of Navarre, at that time a prisoner in the hands of John, King of France, repaired to England, and did homage to Edward the Third at Clarendon, as King of France and Duke of Normandy. In the foUowing year, 1357, after the battle of Poio- tiers, Edward, accompanied by his two royal prisoners John, King of France, and David, King of Scots, and attended by a numerous and splendid retinue of foreigners and English, came to enjoy health and the pleasures of the chase in the woods of Clarendon, whilst the plague was raging in the metropolis. Charles the Bad, King of Navarre, paid a visit to Edward the Third et Clarendon, in the year 1370. "Subsequently to this period," observes Sir R. C. Hoare, ''the glory of Clarendon disappears. No longer are parliaments held within its halls, or foreign princes received within its chambers, nor does it occur in the dates of the royal charters and precepts." The only royal visits to Clarendon of a later date on record are those of Richard the Second, who, in the early part of his reign, hunted in the forest, and sent fifteen deer, the tithe of the spoils of the chase, to the members of the Cathedral ; of Henry the Sixth, who spent nine weeks of the year 1454 here, for the recoveiy of his health ; and of EHzabeth, who hunted in the Park, in i574. On this latter occasion, the Earl of Pembroke had prepared a banquet-house of leaves for her Majesty to dine in ; but the rain penetrated the bower, although " fenced with arras ; and the Queen was obliged to dine in the Lodge ; ^ " whence it is supposed that the Palace must have been at that time in a ruinous condition. The Forest of Clarendon, with its dependencies, Pancet and Melchet, from time immemorial formed a part of the ancient domain ^ Clarendon was also the birth-place of a natural son of tbe Black Prince, Sir Roger de Clarendon, who was accused of treasonable practices, and ignominiously hanged, with his valet and esquire, in tbe early part of the reign of Henry the Fourth. ^ The Ranger's Lodge, we presume, which stood near the spot at present occupied by the house of our respected friend, Mr. Weeks ; whose farm still retains the name of " The Ranger's Lodge Farm." FOREST OF CLARENDON. 139 ofthe Crown. It was granted to the first Eari of Pembroke for his own hfe and that of his son; which terra expired in IfiOl, on the death of the second Earl. James the First, in the fourth year of his reign, conferred the chief Rangership of the Park on WiUiam Earl of Pembroke, who was succeeded in the office by his brother Philip, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. Charies the First mortgaged Clarendon and other of the royal domains in the year 1643. After the Restoration, in 1665, it was granted in fee to George Monk, Duke of Albemarle ; whose son and successor Christopher, on his death in 1688, bequeathed it to his cousin, John Granville, Earl of Bath. It was purchased from his heirs, in the year 1713, by Benjamin Bathurst, Esq., in whose family it has since remained. Clarendon Lodge, the seat of Sir F. H. H. Bathurst, Bart., the present proprietor, is a commodious, modern mansion, most pleasantly situated at the distance of about a mile from the site of the ancient Palace, with the materials of which, we are informed, it waa partly constructed. We have briefly adverted, in the chronological order of its occur rence, to the great historical event from which Clarendon derives its principal interest. We would remind the reader, that the con troversy between Thomas a Becket and Henry the Second hinged upon certain supposed obsolete laws and customs, that were repre sented as much less favourable to the immunities of the Clergy than those at that time in operation, and which the King called the Laws of his Grandfather, and the Ancient Customs of the Realm. Becket was required to promise that he would swear to observe them, without the reservation usual in the oaths of ecclesiastics, " Saving in all things my order, and the honour of God and Holy Church." He repaired to Woodstock, and in deference to the urgent advice of the Pope's Almoner, though evidently against his own inclination, he gave the promise required. Accordingly, in the hope that he would perform it pubHcly, to the satisfaction of the King, a great Council of the Archbishops, Bishops, Abbots, Priors, Earls, Barons, and Knights was convoked at Clarendon. The Council of Clarendon was opened on the 25th of Jan., 1164, under the presidency of John of Oxford, one of the Royal Chaplains. It was proposed that the whole Assembly should take an oath to observe " such rights of the crown and customs of the realm, par ticularly with regard to judicial proceedings, as had been in use under the government of King Henry the First and his royal pre decessors."' 1 Lyttelton's Henry IL, Book 3rd. 140 stranger's handbook TO SALISBURY. Becket refused to take the oath that was now required of him, unless with the qualification of the Saving Clause. And though ' this refusal may, at first sight, appear inconsistent with the promise he had given at Woodstock, it should be borne in mind, that the " Constitutions of Clarendon " had not at this stage of the pro ceedings been presented to the Assembly; and that Becket possibly felt justified in decHning to commit himself by an anticipatory oath, absolute and unconditional, to measures of which he could not be supposed to be as yet fully cognizant. A scene now ensued that is one of the most striking in the long and contentious drama, in which Henry the Second and Thomas a Becket were the principal actors. Heniy, who is described by one who lived in his Court, and knew him weU', as " like a lion in his wrath, or more trucu lent than a lion," burst into a paroxysm of rage, and threatened the Archbishop, his friends, and adherents, with exile and death. But Becket quaUed not ! A lion roaring at a rock, the King buried the tempest of his fury at him in vain — he stood unshaken, undis mayed ! The clash of arms was now heard in the adjoining apartments ; the doors of the Great Hall, where this scene took place, were thrown open, and a body of Knights was discovered, their garments girt up for action, with drawn swords in their hands ; and armed men, says Gervase, were seen running through the King's chambers brandishing their glittering battle-axes. The Assembly was now a scene of confusion and terror : the Bishops of Salisbury and Norwich, Robert Earl of Leicester, and Reginald Earl of Cornwall, the Grand Master of the Templars, and another Knight of the same order^ threw themselves at the Archbishop's feet, and, with tears and groans, besought him to yield; "or that, at least," says Hoveden, " for the honour of the King, he would say before the people that he was wilHng to receive his laws." Becket, as in the last tragical scene of his life, though he knew not fear for himself, was not insensible to the danger of his friends. " Overcome, therefore, by the prayers of such great men " (we use the words of Hoveden), " the Archbishop came to the King, and before the clergy and the people said that he received those laws which the King caUed the laws of his grandfather. And he con sented that the bishops should receive them, and promise to observe them. Then the King commanded all the Earls and Barons of the ' Petrus Blessensis, Epist. 75. 2 Richard of Hastings and Tostes of St. Omer. CLARENDON. 141 realm that they should go forth and recall to mind the laws of King Henry, his grandfather, and reduce them to writing." We would here interpose the remark, that the Sixteen Constitu tions of Clarendon, as we now read them, which were supposed to be not yet drawn up, were produced for the first time on the foUowino- morning, and not before.' " When this had been done," continues Hoveden, " the King commanded the Archbishops and Bishops to affix their seals to that writing ; and, when the rest were ready to do so, the Archbishop of Canterbury swore that never would he affix his seal to that writing, nor confirm those laws!" However, he received an authenticated copy of them from the hands of the King ; and when the Clergy earnestly entreated him not to take the docu ment, he turned to them and said, " Suffer it, my brethren ; I but take this in order to show what we have to guard against, and as a testimony of the malice of the King and those who seek to confound their Holy Mother Clmrch!" With regard to the celebrated Articles called the Constitutions of Clarendon, we presume that the tenour of them is sufficiently well known. Tlrey purport to be, in the preamble, " a record of thc customs, liberties, and dignities of the King's ancestors, to wit, King Henry, his grandfather, and others;" but Becket and his party contended that they were not what they claimed to be, but, on the contrary, innovations on ancient usages, and a subversion of the liberties of the Anglo-Norman Church as established by Wil liam the Conqueror. It is but fair to the King, on the one hand, to admit, that at a later period of his controversy with the Arch bishop, he offered to submit the question to arbitration whether the Constitutions really were what they assumed to be in the preamble ; and it is but equally fair to.- allow Becket the benefit of very im portant contemporary testimony, from a quarter that cannot possibly be suspected of hostihty to the King. When the Constitutions were read over and explained to the King's mother, the Empress ' Sacrificing his own judgment to their entreaties rather than their argu ments, he promised in the word of truth to observe the customs, and re quired of the King to be informed what they were. The reader will probably feel some surprise to learn that they were yet unknown : but a committee of inquiry was appointed, and the next day Richard de Lucy and Jocelin de Baliol exhibited the sixteen Constitutions of Clarendon." Lingard's History Of England, Vol. II.,p. 307, 303.— The delay in producing "the Customs" may probably be accounted for from the fact, that no previous record of them appears to have been in existence. They were " recollected upon memory, and set down in writing by the most ancient persons thej:e."—Lgtileton's Henry the Second, Vol. IV., p. 23. 143 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. Matilda, daughter of Henry the First, Lord Lyttleton informs us that she expressed a disapprobation of most of the Articles, and, blamed the King for having put any of those customs in writing, and for having insisted that the Bishops should swear to observe them, because his predecessors had not thought that those precau tions were necessary." ' It should seem from this, that the King's mother did not recognise in the Constitutions of Clarendon the laws and customs of her father, Henry the First. We recommend the point to the critical enquiry of the student of history ; at the same time we beg to observe, that it is purely a question of historical fact, quite irrespective of the abstract merits of the Constitutions themselves, or of the principles they involve, but very material ia determining the comparative good faith of the antagonistic parties at the Council of Clarendon. The palace must have been at this time of considerable dimen sions, to afford even partial or temporary accommodation to the clergy and nobles who attended the Council. Sir R. C. Hoare has published a variety of extracts from ancient documents, con taining many curious particulars of the works executed at Claren don by Henry the Second and his successors, which gives us a lively idea of the extent and economic arrangements of the building. Henry the Second expended in one year no less a sum than 537/. 5s. 6d. on the works at Clarendon. In the reign of Henry the Third there appear to have been two Chapels in the Palace, All Saints' and St. Katharine's, the former the Kuig's, the latter the Queen's Chapel. Mention is made of the Great Hall, and " the King's seat in the Hall ;" of the King's Great Chamber, Wardrobe,' Napery, Almonry, &o. ; of the Queen's Chamber and Wardrobe, the latter described as " under the Chapel ;" of grass-plats or lawns, inclosed with pahng, between the Chapel of Clarendon and the Queen's chamber ; of the chamber of Edward, the King's son ; of King Alexander's chamber, Hugh de Neville's chamber, Mans'eU's chamber, the chamber of the Knights, the Strangers' chamber, and the King's chamber, under the King's chapel, painted with " the history of Antioch and the combat of King Richard." A house beyond the steps of the King's cellar, which is called that of the Rock, and a house beyond the rock, are spoken of; also the house of the Chaplains, the house where the Foresters He, the house of the Steward, a house for " the King's demesne bread," another for the bailiff's store, a pent-house, 34 feet long, between the Napery 1 Lyttlefon's Henry the Second, Vol. IV., p. 164. CL.\RENDON PALACE. 14 J and Ahnonry, and another pent-house leading to King Alexander's chamber. Among the domestic offices noticed are " a great square kitchen." the salsary, larder, buttery, pantry, " a little pantry fo.t the Queen's use," the Queen's herbary, together with the weU in the King's great court, the oven, &c. Mention is also made of a tower beyond the Queen's chamber, a clock-house, two beUs, a granary, stables, &c. &c. The Palace seems to have been roofed with wooden shingles, for in the 39th of Henry the Third, 1 255, occurs an entry for 50,000 shingles, brought from the New Forest', for roofing the King's houses at Clarendon. From a document dated 1st of Edward the First, 1273, it should seem that the palace was only one story high, which may account for its having covered so large a space of ground. From the same document we learn that there were two kitchens, one for the King, aud another for the family; that a cloister extended between the hall and the kitchens, and that the haU was supported by three buttresses without the wall on the north. Reference is also made to two chambers for the cHldren of our Lord the King, the chamber of John the falconer, and the house of the barber. In the reign of Edward the Third, 1358-9, the Great Hall was rebuilt at considerable expense, and a new chamber was erected, with two wardrobes in the court of the Warden of the Forest. The only portion of this once extensive Palace now standing is a wall, 34 feet in length by 30 in height. This sohtary fragment is the more interesting as it appears to have been the gable-end of the Great Hall, in which the memorable scene took place that we have described above. In the year 1821, Sir Thomas PhiUips caused the ground to be dug up and explored, when the palace was found to have been au irregular structure, consisting generaUy of a number of small apartments, and extending 700 feet from west to east. The Great Hall was 90 feet long and 63 feet wide. By removing mould to the depth of several feet, the floors of eight or nine rooms were discovered, some of them paved with square and triangular glazed tiles of different colours, ornamented with dragons, griffins, flowers, birds, &c. ; and others were covered with a smooth plaster, which a person who was present at the time of the search assured us was as fresh as if recently laid down. The glazed tiles, too, were generaUy found uninjured. A number of shingles or slates, with which the Palace had been roofed, and fragments of beautifully-stained glass were also discovered in the course of Sir Thomas's investigations. The walls of the various rooms differed in thickness from two feet eight inches to five feet two inches. We 144 stranger's handbook to SALISBURY. may add, that such numbers of Roman coins have been found in and about the ruins, and ploughed up in the adjacent fields that it has been supposed, with great probabUity, that the site of the Palace was formerly occupied by a Roman viUa. A very fine silver British coin, too, was picked up on King's Manor Farm, an engraving of which is given in Sir R. C. Hoare's History of the Hundred of Alderbury ; where may also be seen a Plan of the Palace, as traced by Sir Thomas PhilHps. From its total want of uniformity or ap parent design, we should conjecture that the original structure was probably nothing more than a hunting-lodge of our earlier kings, to which additions were made from time to time as necessity or convenience required, when it became a favourite residence of the Plantagenets. This supposition may also serve to account for the uncertainty that exists as to the time of its origin and its actual founder. The buildings appear to have occupied a space of about six acres ; the greater part of which is now a thick and matted copse, and a portion is enclosed in the keeper's garden. The general appearance of the place is weU-described by the late H. P. Wyndham, Esq. : The ruins " consist of large masses of strongly cemented flints, scattered about in the most irregular manner, rising in some spots to a considerable elevation, and in others fallen into deep cavities ; but the whole is so closely covered with thorns and briars, that few of them are visible to the eye without an ac curate inspection." In tact. Clarendon Palace may be said to have disappeared, buried beneath its own ruins. Near the only portion of waU now standing, that mentioned as the termination of the Great Hall, a hoUow marks the situation of " the well in the Kinc's great court." At no gi-eat distance from the weU is a long and deep excavation with an arch thrown across it, which we have no difficulty in recognising as " the great ceUar," — " the king's ceUar, which is called that of the rock, &c.," mentioned in the documents referred to above. Immediately at the foot of the ruins runs the wall that inclosed the Court-yard, and at the extremity ofthe field below is a high embankment with a ditch that formed the boundary of the Home Park. This inclosure, which can be distinctly traced throughout its whole extent, was an oblong square of about 60 or 70 acres, in an angle of which stood the Palace. The ruin of a wall Where dwelt the wise and wondrous, is aU that now remains of the once-celebrated Palace of Clarendon. To preserve »o venerable a national reHc from the destruction that TEAFALGAE HOUSE. 14B threatened it, it was thought advisable a few years ago to strip off the ivy that had covered it for centuries, and support it with four massive buttresses formed of the old materials. At the same time a slab was affixed to it, engraved with the foUowing inscription : "The building of vsbich this fragment formed a part, was long a favourite residence of the EngUsh monarchs, and has been historically connecteu with many important transactions and distinguished characters. Among others, Philip, King of Navarre, here rendered the first homage which was paid to Edward the First as King of France ; and John King ot France, with David King of Scots, spent here a portion of their captivity. More especially here were enacted the Constitutions ot Clarendon : the first barrier raised against the claims of secular jurisdiction by the see of Rome. The spirit awakened within these walls ceased not to operate till it had vin- dicatea the authority of the laws, and accomplished the Reformation of the Church of England. To prevent the entire destruction of so interest ing a memorial of past ages, bir F. H. U. Bathurst, Bart., caused it to be supported and strengthened, and this inscription to be uSxed, a.d. 1844." Of the seats in the neighbourhood of Sahsbury we have already noticed Wilton House, Longford Castle, and Clarendon. About six miles distant is Trafalgar House, the seat of Earl >\elscn. It was originaUy called Standlynch House, and was built by Sir Peter Vandeput in 1 733. The wings and portico were added in 1766 ; and it was purchased in 1814 (when it assumed its present name), qnder an Act of Parliament, for the heirs of the hero of Trafalgar. il the park are some fine beech-woods, and near the river a chapel of the style of the 17th century. About 16 miles south-west of Sahsbury is Wardour Park, the seat of Lord ArundeU. The modem mansion and the chapel are rich in tieasures of art : but perhaps the most interesting leature in the place is the Old Castle, a picturesque and venerable ruin. It is rendered memorable by the heroic defence of the Lady Blanch ArundeU, who, with 25 men, defended the Castle against an aimy of 1,500 Soldiers of the Par liament in 1643. After a bombardment of five days she surren dered; but the RepubUcan leader (Sir Edward Hungerford) violated the terms of the capitulation. The Lady Blanch is buried in the chancel of Tisbuiy Church. Adjoioing Wardour is FonthUl, once so famous as " Fonthill Abbey," the seat of the author of " Vathek." The portion of the estate on which the Abbey stood now belongs to the Marquis of Westminster; the other portion has been purchased by James 146 stranger's handbook to Salisbury. Morrison, Esq. At the e.xtreme verge of the county is Stourhead, the seat of Sir Hugh A. Hoare, Bart. For its valuable museum of antiquities, its library, its fine coUection of paintings, and its beautiful and extensive park and pleasure-grounds, Stour head is justly esteemed one of the most magnificent seats in the West of England. The house may be seen on Mondays. Among other points of attraction in this part of the country that deserve particular notice are the noble mansion and splendid demesne of Longleat, the seat of the Marquis of Bath, near Warminster ; and the magnificent forest scenery of Tottenham Park, the seat of the Marquis of Ailesbury, near Marlborough. The former is 24 miles, and the latter 30 mUes, distant from Sahsbury. the enb. NOTES. Poundation of Osmund's Cathbdeal.— A very interesting aeoount ot the discovery of the foundations of Osmund's Cathedral was drawn ud by the late Mr. llatoher, and published at the time in the " Gentlem'an'i Magazine." More lately it has been embodied in the History of Salisbury in Sir B. C. Hoare's Modern Wiltshire. But we believe it is not stated in that aooouut, that the person who originated the search obtained permission from the proprietor ot the soil to make the necessary eicavations, and defrayed the expeases of the operation, was Br. Fowler. The following communioation with which wa have been favoured by the Dootor will bt read with interest. " In the hot summer of 1834, when the sainfoin sown in tha field enclosed by the outer mound was observed withered in lines forming together such a figure as might have been occasioned by the foun dations of the ancient Cathedral, traditionally said to have stood in this quarter, Dr. F., desirous ot asoertaiuing what might remain of this in teresting structure, obtained permission from Mr. Alexander (tbe liberal proprietor) to search for the foundations in the lines indicated by th» withered sainfoin. The result was the discovery of nearly the entire stona foundations, from one to two or more feet below the surface, whioh, from careful measurement, were found to be 270 feet long by 150 feet wide. A skull was found, aud the place of a former interment was observed near the high altar ; not far from whioh a large key was picked up, curiously and artistically formed, and near it another smaller key of ruder workmanship, apparently the key of a chest. With the permission of Mr. Alexander, Dr. F. proposed that tho then Chapter should become the Curators of the articles found in the course of the search, but the arrangement was never carried into effect. Dr. F. was assisted in this research by the late Mr. Fisher aud the late Mr. Hatcher, who made a sketch to Boale of the outlines discovered, and the adjoiaing Close. Thi^ was lithographed, and the copies were sold for one shilling each, by Messrs. Brodie and Co." The skull, the two keys, &a., and some coins that were found in the course of the iuvestiua'ion are now iu the pos>essioQ of Dr. Fowler. It was a hapoy thouaht of tie Doctor's at the time, to plant trees or shrubs at the ansles of tha grouad-plot as ascertained, and two cypresses to mark the place of the hish altar. As it \¥a3, it *va3 found necessary to to cover in the foundations somewhat prematurely, the oooupyiag tenant haviQi; complained of the injury done to his crops by the crowds of curious visitors that throasad to the spot. However, as pegs were driven into the Crouad at the angles, with the assistance of the lithographed plan, the foundation raizbt be easily retraced, and the outlines and form of Osmund's vanished Cathedral visiblv defined and perpetuated on it.i original site, by the adoption of Doctor Fowler's simple and ingenious suggestion. Page 145. In connection with Clarendon, we have to record another instance of Dr. Fowler's enlightened interest in our local antiquities. It was at his suggestion, and under his judicious superintendsnoe, that the last remiinin? wall of Clarendon Palace was strengthened and secured from further dilapidation by the means already mentioned. Tha inscription was drawn up by the late Mr. Hatclier, with the exception of the words, '• the Srst barrier raised against the claims of secular jurisdiction by the Sea of Borne," whioh was substituted by Dr. Fowler for others ia the original draught of the inscription as proposed by Mr. Hatcher. It is stated in this insoription, that Philip Kina; of Navarre rendered homage to Edward the First at Clarendon, as King of France. By reference to page 145, it will ke seen, that it was Monsieur Philip, brother of tlio King of Navarre, that jwrformed the act of homage at Clarendon, and JDdward the Third, not Hward the First, that received it. 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ALSO FOR Lincoln and Bennett's celebrated Velvet Nap Hats. CATHERINE STREET, SALISBURY. EDWIN POCOCK, DVHEI^CEDE^,, n ty c Nitrogen, Alkalies, &c for each j" 0 7 o They supply also the following Articles, wholesale and retail, which they guarantee of the best quality : — 0 10 6 SUPERPHOSPHATE OF LIMB SPECIAL TURNIP MANURE „ RAPE DITTO MANGOLD WURZELL MANURE POTATO? DITTO TOP DRESSINGS POR WHEAT DITTO BARLEY AND OATS ENGLISH LINSEED CAKE AMERICAN DO. IN BAGS DITTO IN BARRELS lalNSESBD CAKES, &c. TOP DRESSING FOR GRASS GIBBS' PERUVIAN QUANO BONES— HALF-INCH „ DUST GYPSUMPEAT CHARCOAL COPROLITES AND ACID MARSEILLES CAKE RAPE CAKE POPPY CAKE PORTLAND CEMENT BATH DITTO NUT CAKE LOCUST'S BEANS LINSEED FOR FEEDING CEMENTS AVfD OIZ.S. ROMAN DITTO LIAS OF LIME MACHINE OIL COLZA DITTO ROCK SALT FISHERY DITTO EPSOM DITTO GLAUBER DITTO MAGNESIAARSENIC AND SOFT SOAP CHEIffilCALS. SULPHURIC ACID NITRATE SODA SULPHATE AMMONIA „ POTASH (OR „ SODA SALTPETRE) „ POTASH BLUE VITRIOL SODA ASH GREEN DITTO CARBONATE SODA AGRICULTURAL SALT And all Chemicals required for Agricultural Purposes. Price Lists ofthe above, or any information given, on application to PRANGLEY & CO., Market Place, Salisbury; or at Cathay, Bristol. N.B. AU Orders sent per Post will receive every attention and be placed at the Market Price, as though given personally. ADVERTISEMENTS. 23 H. W. TABOR, Imilg k dispensing Hl^^^i^^ HIGH-STEEET, SALISBUEY, For three years Senior Assistant to Waugh and Co., Chemists to the Queen, Eegent-street, London. ^tesiiipttiaji ranMij SispESBii ititJrtt 1. W. ®'s. prsmtal snpriiitraiaitri, And all Drugs and Chernicals loarranfed from the lest sources. GENUINE PATENT MEDICINES. PERFUMERY. The following Preparations obtainable only at this Establishment:— DS. FERGUSON'S COEDIAL MIXTURE. Fr(Wi the Prescription lately in the possession of Mr. PRANGLEY. The efficacy of this celebrated medicine in Diarrhoea and Cholera is too well known in Salisbury and neighbourhood to require comment. FRAGRANT TINCTURE OF MYRRH AND BORAX, FOR PRESERVING AND BEAUTIFYING THE TEETH AND GUMS. In this preparation the unpleasant taste of the Myrrh is entirely removed by its combination with Eau de Cologne. It was successfully used during tiie whole of his practice by the celebrated Mr. Cartwright, Dentist. TABOR'S WILTSHIRE BOUOUET. A singularly refreshing and agreeable Perfume, which has elicited the admiration of many of the nobility, and been approved by all who have tried it. TABOR'S RESTORATIVE HAIR WASH, For preventing baldness, and restoring gray hair to its natural coloar. It contains no dye or injurious ingredient; but, by producing a healthy action of the skin of the head, never fails, if regularly applied, to accomplish the above objects. QUININE DENTIFRICE, For preventing the incrustation of Tartar upon the Teeth, and imparting to the Gums a healthy firmness. From its antiseptic aad aromatic properties it is particularly recommended to those afflicted or threatened with Toothache. 24 ADVERTISEMEJSTS. |l^Jr ITi^H Cnmmercial PjjM, MILFORD STREET, SALISBURY. IN THIS OLD-ESTABLISHED It will be the constant care of the Proprietor, THOMAS ROGERS, To merit the Patronage so liberally bestowed on him for so many years. OMNIBUSES TO ALL THE TRAINS OF South- Western and Great Western and Andover and Basingstoke Line (recently opened). ADVERTISEMENTS. 25 ESTABLISHED 1803. Messrs. READ & CO., LATE SQUAREY, larnilg & gispsing C|emists MIL & mmm, hiiiecdsiahto, AND MESSRS. READ & CO. 18eq to tctum tfteit aiuceie tftaiik* j^oc Ific eccten3e3 pattotiage coufetteS ow tfteit £ata€fwfi,meiit |oi; uiocc tftau 5Cat[ a Cevituc-y, au3 aaiute tfteie S'ueuSa avi3 tfte Tu6l!tc c^enetaiixj tftat uo raeettoixa wiff cues Ge wautiuq oti tReii patt to tetaiu that cow- liScHce witft wfticd tfte^ ftawe foe »o (ouj a tnuc Been l^a-^ote.'d. MARKET PLACE, SALISBURY. 26 ADVERTISEMENTS. CANAL, SALISBURY, Is constantly replete with a large and carefully selected STOCK of Porcelain, Glass, and Earthenware Services in Dinner, Dessert, BreaMast, Tea, and Toilette, together with a splendid Assortment of Ornamental Goods of every style & quality. R. PAYNE, Would particularly call the attention of Visitors to his Stoot of the CELEBRATED WORCESTER CHINA, With Views of "The Cathedral," "Stonehenge," "The Castle of Old Sarum," and other important local objects. He also respectfully invites them to inspect " The Halle " itself, an interesting sight to lovers of " The relies of Olden Times." CROSS KEYS J.|niriJiifsi;l iieI CsmmifiriifJ Jii, QUEEN STREET, SALISBURY, CONDUCTED ET P. INGERSOH. Persons visiting the above Inn will find every possible attention paid to their Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. (Sauitt^ Mines & ^^irfts, diitd from ihe §uU. Well-aired Seds. Superior Home-irewed Beer. Good Lock -ii-p Stables. AN ORDINARY EVERY TUESDAY, AT TWO O'CLOCK. P. INGEKSON begs to announce that the SALISBUEY CRICKET AND QUOIT GROUNDS Will be open Daily from 1st May to the end of the Season. A Variety of Fetes will be taking place during the Season. Eefreshments may be had on the Ground. Season Tickets to be obtained at the Cross Keys Inn, .59. each. ADVERTISEMENTS. 27 WM. OSMOND & SON, ST. JOHN STREET, SALISBURT. iBsigns ginin fnr Clittrrjiij;iir!i k Mmmmkl Mmnk\^, /nttte, nnir nil (fttteinstital Itnn^ Enii %mW Wmk. Chimney Pieces of various Marbles and Enamelled Slate. Drain Pipes, Grindstones, Pire Bricks, Chimney Pots, &c. CHEESE MARKET, SALISBURY. W. WAPSHARE, fttpnifttf^ ^^x^kt^ ^^^(^^^t ^^rtng^if) &C. &0. &0. Household Goods Bought, Sold, or Exchanged. GOOD FEATHER & FLOCK BEDS, MATTRESSES, &c. Agent for the Sale of all kinds of Gwita Percha Articles, Tubing, S^e. Also, AGENT for the SALE of the newly-invented DIAPHANIE, to imitate Stained Glass, well adapted for Staircases, Passages, Halls, &c., which can be applied by any person with little trouble and small expence. Commissions at Sales taken, and carefully attended to. 28 ADVERTISEMENTS. Mrs. W. G. STODART, ( LATE MISS EARLE ) i i^ii) Ji NEW CANAL, SALISBURY. W. G. STODART, 9 '^^'^t^ Fancy Dresses, Ribbons, Laces, and Embroideries. Family Mourning and Black Glace Silks. ADVERTISEMENTS. 29 J. PICKETT, f.ys^i,m:s, Hz-z-jwrisrs, ace. Of all Sizes, in Morocco, Kussia, Plain, Elegant, Antique, and every Description of Binding. JUVENILE WORKS SUITABLE FOR ALL AGES. ScHOOi-BooES AND Stationbbt, Copt Eooks, with or without Copies, CiPHBEiNa Books, ruled or Plain. A liberal Discount to Schools. All Monthly, Weekly, & other Periodicals regularly supplied. %uh nnt ra Itark prnrnKh mitjiDitt M^. Magazines, Eemews, Music, and other Books Bornid on the Premises. ADVEETISEMENTS. S T^T I O :N E R Y. COPY, BRIEF, FOOLSCAP & LETTER PAPERS ; DE LA RUE AND DOBBS' NOTE PAPEES, OF ALL SIZES AND QUALITIES; . Wedding, Paurning, and ^aneg ^kimnu, Cream Laid and Yellow Wove, Cameo, Medallion, Initial, Plain, and Official ENVELOPES; GOLD, STEEL, AND QUILL PENS, WAX, WAFEES, &o. Large Stock of Ledgers, Say, Memorandum aud other Acconut Books, Constantly on Sale or Euled and Bound to any Pattern on the shortest Notice. Printing, Blotting, Bill, Cartridge, Coloured, Brown, and Kitchen Papers; Parchment Eegisters, Overseers' and Churchwardens' Account and Check Eeceipt Books, Prepared Parchment, Blank Warrants and Pre cedents for Justices of the Peace. Metallic and other Pocket Books. Porte-monnaies, Tablets, Card Cases, and a great Variety of Fancy Goods. LADIES' & GENTLEMEN'S WRITING CASES FOR TRAVELLING. BLOTTING BOOKS, WITH AND WITHOUT LOCKS, Bosewood and Spanish Mahogany Writing Desks, Plain or Bound or Inlaid with Pearl or Brass, PAPIER MACHIE, ROSEWOOD, EBONY, AND OTHER INKSTANDS, Walkden's, Morrell's, Tarling's, Stephens' Black, Blue, Eed, and other INKS. Ivory, Bone, and Wood Chessmen, Papier Machie and Leather Back gammon and Chess Boards. Manuscript Music Books, Paper, and Portfolios. Black Bordered and Plain Visiting Cards, Cards to return thanks, &o. Copper Plate Printing and Engraving executed with Neatness and Despatch hy BEOWN & CO., CANAL, SALISBUEi: BENNETT, PRINTER, SALISBC^BT. SAUSeURV AMD SOUTH WILTS. The following Wotka are desarving the especial atteatioa of Visitots anfi Touxists:— HALL'S (Rev, Peter) PICTURESaUE MEMORIALS of Salisbury — a Series of 60 Original Etchings Mid Vignettes, UlUstratire of interesting Buildings and other AiltiquitieB in the City and Vicinity, with brief His tory of Old and New Sarum, 4to., cloth, 12s,, published at 278. 6d. DODSWORTH'S HISTORICAL ACCOUNT of the Episcopal See AND CATHEDEAL CHtJECH OF SALISBURY, from the earliest; ¦period, and Deicription of its Monuments, illustrated with 21 Engravings, Boyal4to. boards £0 10 0 originally publiuhed at £3 13 6 Imperial 4to., large paper, boards 110 „ „ 6 6 0 BROWN'S STRANGEE'S HANDBOOK and lUustrated Guide to SALISBURY AND ITS NEIGHBOUKHOOD, by J. B. Moobf, Esq., with upwards of 35 new Engravings by George Measom ; and Plan of Salisbury. Jjimp cloth, 2s. 6d. THE SALISBIJaY GUIDE, by j. B., with Engravings, Is. 6d. _ — — __ — — -— -r*!--^-' ' compiled by J. Easton, with Cuts, 9d. BROWIPS sa:fiiLNGER'S HANDBOOK to Salisbury Cathedral, with List ofthe Monuments, and numeroiii Engrnv ings. Is. fid. PLAN OP THE CITY OF SALISBURY, .-educed by ijermi.si-.,, from the Block Plan of the Local Board of Health, with references to the prin cipal Places, price 6d. Eor Catalogue of Pictures, &o., other Books, and Prints ol fjocal interest, the Reader is referred to the inside of this Wrapped". j3:R>0^vV3Sr Sc oo., PUBLISHERS, BOOK & PRINTSELLERS, NEW CANAL. SALlSiUJRY. n ^•n.*^ *<^ '4 .^^¦^•- r/^ &i7 m: • ,"'*<'^ f^i' :->-¥- .*->"* •- Wi "fes W ¦ i*-i \."« ¦ - t-i .^'; I'm ir-"' hi.' J^^ ' *''/ '.'! A *? ^ •vt,' m nf |.»!i S i ¦•¦' ,;¦ ''.i\iJ1 J-jV .Ig.. '-'-' ^.^ . '' •/: V, ^li in, ;,V . - k .^ ¦ill _'(i'ii.. .*i •Ii'h liiv!' ' •^^ fj I I