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LETTERS FROM BERMUDA

BY

Mrs. JANE A. EAMES.

SECOND EDITION, WITH ADDITIONAL LETTERS.

CONCORD,. N. H. :
PRINTED BY THE REPUBLICAN PRESS ASSOCIATION.
l88l.

These letters, originally written for the Concord (N. H.) Dail
Monitor, are now, at the request of many friends, published in thi
form. J. A. E.

Letters from Bermuda.

I.

Hamilton Hotel,
Hamilton, Bermuda, Jan. 12, 1875.
Messrs. Editors : Greetings to you from this gem of
the sea, and through you to our many friends among the
readers of the Monitor. Six days ago we left the ice
bound hills of New England ; and as I sit in my room, and
look out of the open window (no, there is no window in the
room, but, instead, two large glass doors opening on the ve
randah) upon the blue waters of the harbor, and the green
hills beyond dotted with white houses, it is difficult for me
to realize that this is January, and that only last Wednesday
I walked the streets of Concord, slipping about on their
thick coating of ice and snow. What a marvellous change,
and how speedily made ! Three days and three nights of
discomfort, and we are in an earthly paradise.
On the afternoon of Thursday, the 7th of January, at
four o'clock, our good steamer, the Canima, left New York,
and in less than an hour we began to be in rough waters,
and one by one the passengers dropped out of sight, the
writer of this, one of the first to disappear.
The Canima is a staunch, Clyde-built steamer, long and
narrow, but, like all propellers that I have seen, rolls fearfully.
She is well manned, her officers thoroughly understanding

4 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
and performing their duties, and, withal, extremely courteous
to their passengers, doing everything in their power for
their happiness and comfort. The servants were exceed
ingly attentive, ready to run at all times for us.
I did not again make my appearance upon the stage till
Saturday afternoon ; — not that I was so very sick, but I was
so extremely tired and uncomfortable I thought it best to
keep as quiet as possible. There is not much change in a
sea voyage, except in the noises around one. The creaking
of the ropes, the throbbing of the engine, the waves dashing
against us and pouring over us as though longing to devour
us, the crockery knocking and thumping about, the retching,
vomiting, and coughing of the unhappy victims of sea-sick
ness, — these are the sounds that constantly greet the ear.
We did not see any ships, but, on the contrary, shipped
many seas, each one seeming to knock us about with a little
more force than its predecessor. We were constantly told
that "We shall have rough weather crossing the gulf, but
after that we shall be in smooth waters." That may have
been the case in other instances, certainly not so in our
experience, for it is difficult to say when we had the rough
est, — before, or after, crossing "the gulf." Each morning
our attendants would announce that " We had a fine run last
night." Well, if it was any pleasure for them to call it a
" fine run " I do not begrudge it to them, but I called it a
roll, and a tumble, and a plunge, and every time a heavy sea
struck us, our steamer would quiver from stem to stern.
On Sunday came the joyful cry, " Land in sight ! " Up I
scrambled, dressed myself as speedily as I could, and went
on deck. There, like a dark cloud against the horizon, lay
Bermuda, " the haven where we would be." Oh ! what a
joyful sight! Nearer and nearer it seemed to come, and
calmer and calmer grew the water, till it lay before us and
around us like an azure sea of glass.
I ran down to call the Doctor, who had not been out of
his berth since leaving New York, and by the time I was

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 5
back on deck, this isle of beauty, in all its loveliness, was
before me.
The approach to the harbor is through narrow straits,
studded with islands whose vivid green was in exquisite con
trast to the blue sea. Peeping in and out among the trees
were white houses, and, as with infinite care we threaded
our way through the intricate passage, new beauties were
unfolded at every turn, and called forth new adjectives to
express our admiration.
Darkness fell on the scene just before we reached the
dock ; but soon after six we were in this hotel, and were
warmly greeted by the senior proprietor, John W. Dodge,
Esq., a classmate of Dr. Earner's in Brown University.
And now, what shall I say of Bermuda ? Not much more
in this letter than I have already said ; for, although I took
a long and lovely drive yesterday morning, my head was so
weak, the effects of the voyage, that I could only lie back
in the carriage and enjoy to the utmost the delicious air
and the intensely foreign aspect of everything about me.
As the steamers leave only once a fortnight, I shall have
ample time to observe, and to digest my observations, before
sending off another letter to you. Think of being two
weeks without getting a letter or a newspaper !

II.
Hamilton, Bermuda, Jan. 20, 1875.
Messrs. Editors : By this time I suppose you have
received my first letter from Bermuda, written, I think, on
the twelfth, announcing our safe arrival on this enchanted
shore. We have now been here more than a week, and already
begin to feel quite at home. Every time we walk out we
meet some pleasant acquaintance that we have made, whose

6 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
kindly greetings lead us to forget that we are " strangers in
a strange land." In fact, the fashion here seems to be to
bow and speak to every one you meet, be they gentlemen,
ladies, or what in ordinary parlance are called " common
people." There are a great many black people on the
island. Though slavery was abolished here in 1834, it is
said that sixty-one per cent, of the inhabitants are more or
less of African descent. Many of them own a little patch
of land which they cultivate with care, and, as far as I know,
are industrious and frugal. Some say they are lazy. I dare
say they may be. My experience is, that there is a vast
deal of laziness in the world, and, of course, a warm climate
tends to develop it more than a cold one. The black
women are tall and straight, and walk through the streets
carrying upon their heads immense bundles which they bear
with extreme ease, balancing them by the motion of the
body without the touch of the hand. It is not uncommon
to meet a woman having on her head a large tub filled with
water, and, although she may be going up or down a hill, so
evenly does she walk that not a drop of the liquid over
flows. They do a great deal of work, too, in the fields, and
as for the children, they are playing round everywhere, and
are just as bright and cunning (I do not mean by this word
sly) as they can be. The men are sociable, ever ready to
answer any questions put to them, and are uniformly re
spectful and polite. At least we have found them so, for we
have not received an impertinent or saucy word or look from
any one to whom we have spoken, — man, woman, or child.
And now permit me to speak a little in detail of this
island, or cluster of islands, rather. Some say there are
more than three hundred islands in all, but as many of these
consist of only a single rock or hill, they are not of much
account. A chart lies before me, made in 1872, which gives at least
one hundred islands, about twenty of which are inhabited.
The five largest islands are St. David, St. George, Bermuda

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 7
(sometimes called the continent), Somerset, and Ireland,
all separated from each other by little inlets or bays. These
islands lie about seven hundred miles south-east of New
York, in the same latitude as Savannah, Ga. The nearest
point on the main land is Cape Hatteras, which is five hun
dred and eighty miles distant.
The islands are about twenty miles long, varying in width
from a half mile to five miles. They lie from north-east to
south-west, and are of calcareous formation, due to the ac
tion of the wind in blowing up sand from the coral reefs.
This calcareous formation makes hard, excellent roads, and
the limestone, found in great quantities, is used in building,
all the houses being constructed of it. Some of the houses
are stained a pinkish red or yellowish brown, but the most
of them are left in their natural state of whiteness.
As the inhabitants are mostly dependent upon rain wa
ter, the roofs are whitewashed, that they may be kept clean
and pure so as not to soil the water that falls upon them.
This Bermuda stone is so soft and porous that it is gener
ally sawed out with a common saw ; but despite its soft
ness it is very durable, and as it is never touched by frost,
a house built of it is known to last in good order for a
century and a half. It is rarely that you see a house here
more than two stories high, and the majority of them are
only one. They all have blinds, not opening up and down
through the middle, as with us, but whole, and hinged at
the top so that they may be raised or lowered to let in as
much or as little sunlight as one wants. Every house has
its verandah, shut in at the sides with lattice-work. To
keep cool is the main thing here, and all the houses are
built with this end in view. Many houses in Bermuda (I
use this name as including all the islands) never have a fire
during the winter, except in the kitchen.
In 1 87 1 the population of these islands was 12,426, of
which 4,725 were whites, 7,390 blacks, and 305 belonged to
the military and naval departments.

8 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
It is said that these islands were discovered in 1527 ; — but
I cannot go fully into their history here, which may be a
matter of consolation to some of my readers. In 1609, a
part of the fleet sent out from the mother country to the
Virginia colony was wrecked off the Bermudas, and St.
George received its name from Sir George Somers, one of
the wrecked party. On their arrival afterwards in Virginia,
they made so flattering a report of the riches and beauty of
these islands, that the Virginia company procured such an
extension of their charter as to include Bermuda in it. Soon
after, this right was purchased by one hundred and twenty
gentlemen, who divided the profits arising from the cultiva
tion of the soil among themselves and their tenants. This
proprietary form of government existed till 1685, when these
islands became a crown colony of England.
The Governor, the highest official on the island, receives
his appointment from the crown, and holds his office from
five to seven years. His salary is two thousand seven hun
dred and forty-six pounds (not quite fourteen thousand
dollars), five hundred of which is paid by the colony, forty-
seven from what is called " quit-rents," and the remainder
by the English government.
The Legislature, which generally meets in the summer, is
composed of the House of Assembly and the Council, the
latter consisting of nine members, nominated by the Gover
nor and ratified by the English government. The islands
are divided into nine parishes, — St. George, Hamilton,
Smith, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southamp
ton, and Sandys, — each of which is entitled to send four
representatives to the Assembly. No one can vote unless
he owns real estate to the value of sixty pounds (three hun
dred dollars our money), and he is not eligible to office as a
member of the Assembly, unless he has at least four times
that amount.
Although the blacks have the same civil rights as the
whites, I am told they have never sent a colored representa-

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 9
tive to the Assembly ; and although at the last census there
were 3,284 colored males to 2,118 whites, there were only
one hundred ninety-seven colored voters to six hundred
and twenty-nine white.
There are only two towns of any size on the island, — St.
George and Hamilton. We are at the latter, which is the
seat of government, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants.
It does not lie on the sea, as I expected, but on a harbor
which is almost landlocked. This hotel stands on a hill,
and our room is in front, opening, as I think I said in my
first letter, on the verandah by two glass doors. For the
most of the time since we have been here, one of these
doors has been open, and some of the time both. From
the verandah I look across the harbor to a prettily wooded
island, and to the shore beyond, which is hilly, thickly
wooded, and dotted with white houses. Further down is
the light-house, and every evening I see its bright light re
volving around every minute. The street on the harbor is
the busiest, as most of the stores and offices are there : not
much of a sidewalk anywhere, so pedestrians stroll along in
the middle of the street, or where it best suits their con
venience. Cedar trees abound all over the islands. Then there are
so many foreign trees and shrubs, — that is, " foreign " to
our eyes, — that our attention is constantly attracted by
something new and strange. Palmetto trees are in abun
dance ; bananas, oranges, and lemons grow in profusion.
Then there is a sort of plum called " loquotte," bright yel
low in color and delicious in taste. The mountain cabbage
is a very peculiar looking tree. It rises to a great height,
the trunk as clean and smooth as though it had been shaven,
while at the extreme top it spreads out into graceful
branches, bearing clusters of a kind of fruit resembling a
cabbage, — whether good to eat or not, I have not discov
ered. Oleanders, great trees of them, are everywhere, and
their flowers send out a delicious perfume. Many of the

IO LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
private gardens are exquisitely laid out, and kept in perfect
order. Everywhere you see great bunches of roses, lovely
in color and perfect in fragrance.
There are several magnificent specimens of the India
Rubber tree, one very near our hotel, sent here twenty-five
years ago from Essequebo, and now grown to be an enor
mous tree, the trunk twelve feet in circumference, running
up three or four feet from the ground, and then dividing
into five large limbs, rising in all nearly fifty feet from the
ground, and covering with its dense shade a space all round
of at least seventy feet. I have seen, too, a mahogany tree,
and an aloe bearing a nut-shaped fruit, — or flower, shall I
call it ? A very singular looking tree is the pawpaw, rising
up slim and straight, without any branches, the fruit in
shape like a lemon, growing directly from the trunk. These
are not yet ripe, so I have had no opportunity of tasting
them. Since we have been here we have had on the table, pease,
string beans, tomatoes, turnips, lettuce, asparagus, and rad
ishes, fresh from the garden. Sweet potatoes are not as
nice here as those we get in the States. The far-famed
Bermuda onions are growing everywhere, and shall I be
deemed too prosaic if I say their odor sometimes mingles
with the delicious scent of the roses and the oleanders ?
Notwithstanding the richness of the soil and the warmth
of the climate, there is a good deal of waste land in these
islands. A New England farmer and fruit-grower, coming
out here, might soon, it seems to me, make a fortune in
raising vegetables and fruit for the market.
Since we have been here, there has been a great deal of
cloudy weather with frequent showers. A high wind blows
a great part of the time, though fortunately it is not a cold
wind. As I said before, the roads here are very good. They
often run through deep cuttings in the rocks, from the crev
ices of which spring delicate flowers and lovely ferns.

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. II
Here, in driving, as in England, when you meet a car
riage you turn to the left, and not to the right, as in our
country.

III.
Hamilton, Bermuda, Jan. 27, 1875.
Messrs. Editors : Just three weeks to-day since we left
our home in the Granite State, and we have not yet heard
one word from there, either by letter or newspaper. The
Canima, which ought to have been in on Sunday evening or
Monday morning, has failed to make her appearance, and of
course there are all sorts of rumors and conjectures about
it, forming the principal topic of conversation. We do not
even know whether the steamer ever reached New York,
after leaving here on the 14th : if she did not, you cannot
have heard of our arrival here. Think of being three weeks
without a newspaper ! True, there are two or three weekly
newspapers published here, but when no steamer has ar
rived their contents, of course, must be strictly local, and
therefore not of so much interest to us as to the people here.
The leading paper is the Royal Gazette, published, I think,
more or less at the expense of the government. It is about
the size of the Monitor, and the subscription price is twen
ty-four shillings a year (six dollars), rather " steep " (as the
boys say) for a weekly paper. Each week we have bought
a copy, for which we have paid a sixpence, and, leaving out
the advertisements, we could read it all through in a half-
hour or so.
You will wonder what we find to occupy ourselves about
in this small island, but we have by no means yet begun to
exhaust its wonders, for we have not been in a hurry with
our sight-seeing, learning in this respect, if in no other, to
take life easily, after the custom of the Bermudians.
Of course, being an English colony, the Episcopal is the

12 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
established Church of the island, which is under the eccle
siastical control of Right Rev. Edward Feild, d. d., Lord
Bishop of Newfoundland. His See was formed from the
Diocese of Nova Scotia in 1839, and includes Newfound
land, Labrador, and the Bermudas. He generally spends
his winters here, but this season it is said he is not coming
out, as his coadjutor, Bishop Kelly, is sick. Every parish
here has its church, one clergyman, however, generally do
ing duty in two distinct parishes. Here in Hamilton, in
addition to the parish church, there is a cathedral, or " chap
el of ease," rather, Trinity church, built of the white stone
of the country, and so beautiful in all its parts and thorough
in all its details, that it would be considered an ornament
to any town in the States. The service there is well con
ducted, and we have enjoyed it exceedingly. A great many
colored people attend there, and enter into the services with
much spirit and interest. There are two Presbyterian
places of worship on the island, several Methodist, and one
Romish. The chaplains to the troops are generally Epis
copal, though in one or two instances they are Presbyterian
and Romish.
But to go back to the way we occupy our time. We walk
every day, and drive two or three times a week, and when
ever we go out, whether walking or driving, we see some
new thing to admire. When I have written of the trees, I
do not think I have mentioned the " Pride of India," which
is very abundant here, a beautiful tree in shape, though we
do not now see it in its glory, as it is not in full leaf.
One day we visited, by invitation, a beautiful estate called
" Rose Bank," where the grounds are exquisitely laid out,
though not kept in the best order, as the estate has re
cently changed owners. There are eighteen acres, includ
ing wharf privileges, and the whole was bought six months
ago for about fifteen thousand dollars in our money. So,
you see, real estate does not seem very high in Bermuda.
The house at Rose Bank, though only of one story, is large

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 1 3
and roomy, and the grounds are so lovely that we were loth
to leave them. However, we shall visit them often, as we
have a standing invitation to go whenever we like. There
we saw many trees and shrubs strange to us, among which
was the guava, from the fruit of which the celebrated jelly
bearing that name is made. What at home we commonly
call "pigeon berry" here rises to a large tree, and the
boughs hang over in the most graceful manner, bearing
great clusters of berries. Oranges, lemons, limes, and lo-
quottes grow in great profusion in this garden, while roses,
geraniums, oleanders, and other flowers load the air with
their fragrance. Among other plants strange to us were
the sago palm, and a species of lily bearing an immense
purple flower. Birds were carolling over our heads, the
sunlight streamed down upon us, and through vistas in the
trees we caught enchanting views of the blue water.
Two mornings our amusement consisted in seeing a reg
iment get away, the fifty-third, composed, all told, men,
women, and children, of about one thousand persons. The
first morning the women and children embarked, carrying
untold articles of baggage. The loud sobs and cries of the
women and children, mingled with the barking of dogs and
the chattering of monkeys and parrots, made a sound at
once affecting and comical. The next day the men got off,
and there were loud cheering and band-playing as the
steamer left the wharf. They were all carried down to the
dockyard, where they embarked on board the Tamar for
Gibraltar. One afternoon we went, by invitation of Rev. Mr. Lough,
rector of the churches of Paget and Warwick, to a feast
given to the colored Sunday-school belonging to the two
parishes, in the glebe grounds of Paget. Here were as
sembled two or three hundred colored children, with a small
sprinkling of white (their school having had their festival
a little while ago), with their teachers, mostly white, and I
never saw children play more heartily and enjoy themselves

11

14 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
more thoroughly ; and though a good many of them were
boys who played with all their " might and main," after the
manner of boys, there was no roughness or rowdyism about
them. A table was spread under the trees, where was a
profusion of cake and hot tea, of which all the children
partook bountifully, and afterwards had cake, nuts, and
candy given them to take home.
In Mr. Lough's garden we saw all kinds of vegetables
growing, and strawberries ripening fast. They gave us
some "loquottes" to bring home, and what they called
"sugar apples," — the outside in rough scales, somewhat
resembling a "Jerusalem artichoke," the inside in a trian
gular sort of compartment, of a sweet, custardy nature,
each compartment containing a seed or stone about the size
of our common white bean.
Among our amusements I must not forget to mention
shopping, so dear to every feminine nature. The shops are
by no means attractively arranged in Bermuda ; no show or
any display to tempt an outsider to walk in. They remind
me a good deal of what we call a " country store " at home,
wherein may be found a little, or a good deal, as the case
may be, of everything. I have been enabled to pick up
some few things to take home, — specimens of lace made
here, and of palmetto work ; also chains and bracelets made
of acacia seeds, the latter brought to the hotel by negro
women, for sale.
One of our drives was to the barracks on " Prospect " —
high land commanding an extensive view o'er land and sea.
These are the quarters of the regiments stationed here,
there always being a large detachment of troops on the
island. At present they are in a transition state, so many
having recently sailed for home, and others having just
come to take their places. In our drive that day we passed
the old parish church of Devonshire, venerable for its an
tiquity and its associations with the early history of these
islands. In the churchyard is a cedar tree, the oldest on

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 1 5
the island. Formerly it was used for a bell-cote ; now it is
quite hollow, With a young tree growing up through it. We
came home by the sea-road — on our right the vast expanse
of ocean, not a "gray and melancholy waste," but of the
brightest, loveliest hue, and cultivated patches and wooded
hills, interspersed with barren fields, on our left. In the
rocky inlets along the shore the sea was of the loveliest
green imaginable, shading off into darker tints as the water
grew deeper.
You seldom see cattle and sheep browsing here on the
hillside. What cattle there are are tethered, and they are
lean and poor. Hens and ducks are cackling about with
their young broods ; and, as we see these small specimens
of the feathered tribe in full enjqyment of their little lives,
we find it difficult to realize that it is winter, a time with us
when chickens and ducklings are unknown. We have seen
some geese and turkeys, but not many.
Another day we drove to the light-house, six or seyen
miles from here. . At first we skirt round the harbor, through
Paget and Warwick, our favorite drive, the road lying
through fine country seats, and giving us exquisite glimpses
of the water. As we neai* the light-house the sea view
opens, till the whole expanse lies stretched out before us,
as smooth and placid as an inland lake. Everything in and
about the light-house is kept in perfect order and neatness.
We went up to the top by nearly two hundred steps, and were
amply repaid for our exertions by the grand view from the
summit ; — seaward, blue water, dotted near the shore by
gems of islands, stretching out as far as the eye could reach ;
landward, green patches and white houses, little inlets from
the sea, giving charming variety to the scene : nor must I
forget the panoramic view given by looking into the lens,
where the scene below was reflected like a perfect picture.
The light here is what is called a revolving dioptric lens, of
the first order, with mirrors. I dare say scientists know
what this means ; I do n't. It has one centre lamp with

1 6 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
three concentric wicks, and is among the largest and most
powerful in the world.
But the culminating point in our amusements was reached
to-day, when we attended a wedding, — William Whitney,
deputy consul for the United States at the port of Hamil
ton, being married to Frances Mary Hill, of Smith. The
wedding took place in St. Mark's church, in the parish of
Smith, and was solemnized by the rector, Rev. G. Tucker,
assisted by Rev. Dr. Eames, rector of St. Paul's church,
New Hampshire, thus uniting England and America in the
parties married and in the clergymen officiating. This is
the first time I have witnessed what may be called a "for
eign wedding," and you may be sure I was exceedingly in
terested in it. It would not be proper for me in this public
manner to speak of the dress and deportment of the bride ;
but this I am sure I may say : everything was in admirable
taste. The horses that bore away the bridal party were
decked with white rosettes ; and the coachman carried a
whip tied with long streamers of white ribbon. The wed
ding made a gala-day for this part of the island, — flags fly
ing, and carriages, filled with wedding guests, dashing along
the roads. As Mr. Whitney. had been boarding at this
hotel, and has been exceedingly kind and attentive to the
Americans here, we have all been only too happy to avail
ourselves of his polite invitation to attend his wedding.
I cannot close this long letter without speaking of the
kind attentions that have been bestowed upon us, even in
the short time we have been here. We have made a good
many very pleasant acquaintances, receiving a number of
calls which we have taken much pleasure in returning. In
addition, we have done ourselves the honor of paying our
respects to His Excellency Major-General John Henry
Lefroy, who has been Governor and Commander-in-Chief
of Bermuda since May, 1871. Government House is at
Mount Langdon, a mile from here, directly on the seashore,
the grounds extensive, admirably laid out, and perfectly

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 1 7
kept, the Governor being a thoroughly practical man in
gardening as well as in everything else.
Thus it will be seen, from what I have written, that we
have not been idle since we have been here ; so that with
walking, driving, reading, writing, and the feminine occu
pation of sewing and fancy work, my time has been fully and
agreeably occupied. Not much is going on here evenings.
or, at least, not to attract me, so that with the exception of
going to church I have not been out of the house after
night-fall since our arrival.
One more item and I have done. Last Sunday Dr. Eames
preached for Rev. Mr. Lough, — in the morning at Paget, and
in the afternoon at Warwick, three miles farther on. The
church at Paget is one of the largest and handsomest on
the island, and- that at Warwick is soon to be enlarged and
beautified. There were excellent congregations, both morn
ing and afternoon ; the services were well conducted, and
the singing was exceedingly spirited and hearty. I do not
know when I have more enjoyed a Sunday, — the services in
these Bermuda churches, and the quiet dinner and tea in
the lovely rectory at Paget.
Feb. i. I open this to say that our long suspense has been
terminated, the Canima arriving this morning. Her being
delayed a week has caused her to lose one trip, so she is to
stay here till Saturday, and will not leave New York till the
1 8th, thus bringing her round to her regular day for leaving
that port. The delay in her arrival makes the date of my
letters rather old, but I trust will not otherwise affect their
contents. We have been obliged to give up going to Nassau,
from the difficulty in getting there, so will spend the rest of
our holiday here, taking the Canima on the nth of March,
thus arriving at home in ample season for Easter.
2

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
IV.
Hamilton, Bermuda, Feb. 18, 1875.
Messrs. Editors: Once more I make my appearance
before you, trusting that I shall meet with a favorable re
ception. Since my last letter to you, we have had a con
stant succession of bad weather, not having had more than
three or four bright, sunny days. In fact, this is the rainy
season in Bermuda ; and the weather is so changeable here,
it must be rather a trying climate for invalids, at least in the
winter, and that is the very time they are sent here. It may
often be bright here in the morning, and in an hour or two
the whole aspect of nature is changed. The clouds come
up, the wind rises, and down comes the rain, which, perhaps,
will cease as abruptly as it came on. In fact, there is no
dependence whatever to be placed upon the weather here,
at least at this season of the year. It is perfect folly to go
out, even on the brightest day, without taking an umbrella
and an extra shawl or water-proof. And such winds as blow
here, I never saw the like of ! ~ Perhaps " saw " is not a prop
er word to use in connection with wind, for I remember
once hearing a man reproved for saying that he " never saw
such a wind." Said the reprover, "How can you say 'saw
such a wind ' ? What did it look like ? " " Like to have
taken my head off ! " was the quick reply. And that is the
way the wind blows here. Why, at this very moment that
I am writing, it whistles along the corridors of this hotel
with as much sound and force as though we were in a ship
out in mid-ocean. Fortunately for our comfort, it is not
often a cold wind. And with all the rainy, cloudy, and
windy weather, there have been few days that we have not
sat with one of our doors open on the verandah.
We have not been able to make many excursions, on ac
count of the unfavorable weather. Still, we have spent our
time by no means unpleasantly, or unprofitably, we hope.

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 1 9
Walking whenever the weather will permit, taking advan
tage of every sunny day to drive out, visiting and receiving
visitors, and going to church, the days roll on, we scarcely
know how. One evening we dined at Government House ;
and we spent a day with Mr. Allen, the American consul,
who lives in a delightful situation at what is called " The
Flatts," about four miles from here. His place lies on Har
rington sound, opening into the harbor by a narrow outlet,
spanned by a bridge and hemmed in by hills, amid the cedar
forests of which nestle houses of the most picturesque ap
pearance. The custom here of building the chimneys on
the outside of the houses, and of whitewashing them, greatly
tends to give them a foreign effect.
At Mr. Allen's we saw a cocoa-nut tree, its feathery
branches rustling in the wind like the soft pattering of
raindrops, and bearing an abundance of fruit, — not yet ripe,
however ; and on our way to his house we saw arrow-root
growing, one of the staple productions of the island, a low
shrub, with long, green leaves, shaped somewhat like an
arrow-head, — hence, probably, its name.
Then, we have been out to tea two or three evenings, and,
as I said in one of my letters there is no way of lighting
the streets, we were obliged to carry our own light ; and it
was too comical to see the Doctor going ahead of our party,
with a lantern in his hand, like a modern Diogenes. Of
course, since Lent came on, there have been only little
social gatherings, no ceremonious parties. On the first
Sunday in this month the Doctor officiated for Rev. Mr.
Tucker, preaching in the morning in Smith parish, where
Mr. Whitney was married, and in the afternoon in Hamil
ton parish. Though we are in the town of Hamilton, we
are in the parish of Pembroke, Hamilton parish being sev
eral miles from here. Our enjoyment that day was some
what marred by the rain. The congregations, however,
were quite large, the services well conducted, and the music
extremely good. In the choir at Smith there were voices

20 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
that would have done credit to Concord, famed though it be
for good singers ; and I never heard the Te Deum chanted
more effectively than on that morning.
On the second Sunday we drove to Sandys, ten miles from
here, and the day was one of the loveliest we have had since
we came. I have spoken before of a part of this drive, for
we went over it on the way to the light-house. And, al
though we had been here five weeks, that Sunday was the
first time we had been off this island, crossing then by a
bridge the ferry to Somerset.
As we rolled along in our open carriage, the sun shining
so brightly, the air so warm, it was difficult to remember
that we were just midway in February. The road was ex
cellent, and our horse's feet striking upon the rocky soil
made " rich music wherever we went." The sea in its glo
rious coloring lay on our right, and, as I looked upon its
gleaming waters studded with islands, I repeated again and
again that line in Mrs. Hemans's exquisite poem, "The
Better Land," — " Amid the green islands of glittering seas; "
and as the wind wafted the spicy odor of the cedar, I mur
mured another line of the same sweet poem, —
" Where fragrant forests perfume the breeze.'*
And I hope I shall not be deemed too enthusiastic or " gush
ing," when I say that I ended every fresh burst of admira
tion by repeating still another line from Mrs. Hemans, —
44 Dreams never pictured a world more fair."
The church at Sandys is delightfully situated, the blue
waters stretching far away in the rear, looking as calm and
clear as the sky above. Like all the churches on these
islands, it is surrounded by a churchyard, where the dead lie
in their quiet sleep beneath the shadow of the sacred edifice
in which their prayers and praises had been offered for
many a year.

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 21
The rector of Sandys and Southampton is Rev. C. P. K.
Coombe, who lives in a charming cottage about half way
between the two churches. Dr. Eames preached for him in
the morning at Sandys, and in the afternoon at Southamp
ton, and we dined between the services at the rectory. In
the morning the Holy Communion was administered, nearly
two hundred persons receiving, more than half of whom were
blacks. I never before saw so many colored people at a ser
vice ; and they were very devout in their appearance, nearly
every one taking to the chancel a little manual of devotions.
Some were very old, and looked as though it would be only
a few more years before their life's pilgrimage would be
ended. And I saw something in this church which I never saw
before — two boys assisting the wardens in taking the com
munion alms. These boys went up and down the aisle
presenting the plate with so much gravity and decorum,
that I was really touched to see how much they seemed to
realize that they were bearing their part in the service of
God's house.
And here, perhaps, is as good a place as any to speak of
the clergymen of the island. In all my experience of minis
terial life, and it has been neither a short nor unvaried one,
I never saw harder worked men than the clergy of the
Church of England in Bermuda. Every one has two par
ishes, several miles apart, and has from one to two or three
thousand souls to minister to. Think what an immense
amount of parish work and visiting this must necessitate !
Think of writing sermons amidst the constant interruption
of calls to the poor, the sick, and the afflicted ! Two or
three of the clergy here have told me that they cannot have
the same sermon both morning and afternoon, as often
the members of the parish where the morning service is
held go in the afternoon to the other parish. The alterna
tion is this : The parish that has morning service on one
Sunday has afternoon service the next Sunday, the second

22 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
parish having morning service that Sunday and afternoon
service the next Sunday, and so on. Then, in addition to
ordinary parish duties, two or three of the clergy are chap
lains to naval or military forces, and are obliged to have a
separate service for them on Sundays, the parish church not
being large enough to accommodate them in addition to the
regular congregation ; — so Sunday is by no means a day of
rest for the clergy. In addition to Sunday duties, in almost
all the parishes there is service on Wednesdays and Fri
days, and Mr. Coombe told me that often for weeks and
weeks he administered the sacrament of infant baptism on
each of these days. And one thing I must say further, in
reference to these clergy : they seldom have any intermis
sion or change in their duties. Some of them have been
here for twenty years, and have been out of Bermuda only
once, and they are years without ever having a brother
clergyman to help them. You see, in this out-of-the-way
place, few stray clergymen come along, and no agents "to
present their cause." Think, then, what a help and a
breathing-time it has been to them to have the Doctor to
preach for them.
On Tuesday of this week we went over to Ireland island,
about five miles from here, making the trip in a mail packet
under the command of J. Benson Steed, who has crossed
nearly twenty-four thousand times, and I think has never
met with an accident. It was very rough the day we went
over, but on the succeeding day, when we came back, it was
delightfully smooth, and we enjoyed the sail immensely, get
ting charming views of the islands, and the pretty country
seats scattered over them.
Her Majesty's dockyard is on Ireland island, and the walls
that guard the entrance to it, and all the buildings upon it,
are constructed in the most solid and substantial manner.
The officers' residences are very attractive looking, and the
cottages for the workmen are neat and pretty. Of course
all the buildings upon the island belong to the government.

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 23
There is always more or less ship-building and repairing
going on there, and a large number of marines and soldiers
on duty and artisans at their work. The floating dock, the
" Bermuda," is the largest in the world, being capable of
holding vessels of the greatest size. It was built in Eng
land, and arrived here on the twenty-eighth of June, 1869,
having been towed over by five ships. It lies in a basin
built of the most solid stone-work, fifty-two feet below low
water mark. The length of the floating dock is three hun
dred and eighty-one feet, the breadth one hundred and
twenty-four feet, and the depth seventy-five feet.
We climbed up on the outside by ladder-like steps — a feat
of agility rather difficult for one of my size — and looked
down into the depth below, where workmen were busily en
gaged in hammering and tinkering upon an old steamship.
At the upper end of the island is the residence of the
chaplain, Rev. R. Croker, one of the most charming spots I
have seen in this region. Here we were most delightfully
entertained, their house having a world-wide fame for its
genial hospitality. A little farther on is the naval hospital,
perfect in all its arrangements ; and on Boaz island, to which
you gain access by a bridge, is the military hospital, also
capitally ordered. Near the residence of the chaplain is the
cemetery, beautifully laid out in winding walks through cedar
groves, and very neatly kept ; but, oh ! it made my heart so
sad, for it seemed to me almost every one who was laid there
had either met death by accident, or had been a victim of
the yellow fever, which several years ago was a terrible
scourge to these islands. Many marines and civilians at
the dockyard fell beneath its ravages, the pestilence having
no regard for rank, taking the highest in command as well
as the lowest in station, the man in the vigor and pride of
his youth and the infant in its mother's arms. And a large
majority of the inmates of this city of the dead died in the
very flush of their manhood, just as life's honors and duties
were opening upon them. How many loving hearts at home

24 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
had been made to ache with sadness when news came to
them that a cherished one had been stricken down in this
far-off isle in mid seas !
Under the escort of the chaplain we made the rounds of
the dockyard, seeing everything worthy of note. We went
on board the Irresistible, which is lying in the dock for re
pairs — a noble old ship, which has borne a prominent part
in the naval history of England, "the Queen of the Seas."
Thinking this is enough for one letter, I stop here, though,
like the famous soap-man, " I have more of the same sort
left."

V.
Hamilton Hotel, Feb. 22, 1875.
Another greeting o'er sea and land to my New Hampshire
friends. I finished my last letter amid the roaring of the wind and
the dashing of the rain. The next morning what a change
was there ! The sun as bright, the air as clear and warm,
the water as smooth as though no " stormy winds " had ever
visited this enchanted isle. On Friday the yacht squadron
was out in full force, and we were invited by General and
Mrs. Lefroy to go with them in their own yacht. What a
pretty sight it was to see the yachts glide over the azure sea,
their white sails swelling to the wind, their bright pennons
gaily fluttering, while the music of laughter mingled pleas
antly with the soft ripple of the water. Nothing could ex
ceed the loveliness of the scene, as we wound in and out
among the islands, the water of the clearest, softest blue
imaginable. We cruised about for two hours or more, then
cast anchor in a sheltered cove, and went on shore on
Tucker's island, several miles from here. We had our lunch
on board the Governor's yacht, the ruling genius of the

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 25
hour declaring it was not worth while to have the provisions
taken to the island, particularly as we were obliged to land
in small boats, but the occupants of the other yachts chose
to take their lunch on shore ; so when we landed, we found
them seated in picturesque groups on the grass, knives and
forks, tongues and glasses, moving in graceful harmony.
Think of our enjoying this sweet out-of-doors idyl on the
19th of February, while you all at home were doubtless shiv
ering and shaking with the cold !
On Tucker's island is a cave with large pillars of coral
line rock, and as we stood gazing up into the vaulted roof,
or into the clear water at our feet, the grouping was most,
picturesque, — now a face illuminated by the torch lit to en
able us to see the cave to advantage, now half hidden in the
darkness as we groped our way along. It was a scene fit
for a painter.
In different inlets about the island, General Lefroy put in
a water-glass, and through that we could see fish gliding
about, in and out, amid the mimic coral reefs below. So
quickly are coralline formations made in these waters, that
if you throw into them an old bottle or tin box, in a few days
you will find it more or less covered with delicate coral
tracery. We were more than two hours making our way back to
Hamilton, the wind being ahead ; but, as the water was per
fectly smooth and the air delicious, we enjoyed every mo
ment of the sail, finding it not a whit too long. As the
shades of evening crept softly o'er us, the sheen on the wa
ter, and the lights and shadows playing over the islands
through which we glided, were most glorious to behold.
That day in our Bermudian life was one to be marked with
a white stone — one that will not easily be forgotten.
As the chaplain at the dockyard was very anxious for the
Doctor to preach to the men of his charge, we went over on
Saturday afternoon, and once more found ourselves welcome
guests at the dear parsonage. After dinner we sat on the

26 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
verandah, the full moon throwing a radiance of glory over
the shining sea, while the soft breeze rustled in the cedar
tops, wafting their spicy odors, and steeping our souls in
bliss unutterable.
Sunday morning dawned fair and gracious as a bride
decked for her bridegroom. At an early hour we accompa
nied the chaplain over to Boaz island, which was once a con
vict station, eight hundred to one thousand convicts often
being there at one time. Now it is used as a military post.
In a small and neat chapel a short service was held, and Mr.
Croker made a brief but effective address, there being about
one hundred and fifty soldiers present. The responses were
good, and the singing very hearty and spirited, done by the
men without any instruments, keeping perfect time and
tune. I never enjoyed any singing more, particularly when
they sang " Brief life is here our portion," every word in that
exquisite hymn seeming so appropriate to a congregation
composed of soldiers. How their voices rang out in the
lines, — '* And now we fight the battle,
But then shall wear the crown."
As the men marched out from the chapel they presented
a fine appearance in their red coats, the English uniform
being extremely showy and handsome. At the dockyard
there is no church, the service being held in a large room
in one of the government buildings, beautifully and appro
priately fitted up as a chapel. It is a mile and a quarter
from the parsonage, and I took the walk four times that day.
The road, winding in and out among the houses and the
cedar groves, over the hill and through the valley, gives at
every turn charming views of the sea and the islands ; and
the tints on the water and the land were lovely beyond com
pare. In the morning there was a large congregation, com
posed of soldiers in their red coats, marines in sailor jackets,
officers in command both of land and sea forces, and their
families, all attentive and devout. There is a large organ in

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 27
the chapel, well played, and the singing was excellent. Dr.
Eames preached both morning and evening. A Bermudian
day was seen in all its changeableness on Sunday — warm
and bright in the morning, more like our summer than win
ter, but clouding over in the afternoon, and finally settling
down into a rainy evening.
We came home in the mail packet this morning, and found
the harbor gay, with the American flag flying from two or
three vessels, from the consulate, and from this hotel, in
honor of the birthday of " the father of his country." We
began yesterday to look for signals of the Canima, but none
greeted our anxious eyes, and our first question this morn
ing was, " Anything heard from the signal station ? " to
which the answer was, " No." This afternoon, however,
came the joyful sound, "The Canima is signalled! "
There is a signal station at Mount Langton, the Govern
or's residence, at the Admiralty, at the dockyard, and several
other places. The first signal is " An unknown vessel."
Then, as soon as it can be made out what it is, whether
steamer or sailing vessel, that is signalled. If a steamer,
the signal is " An unknown steamer." As she comes nearer,
and is made out clearly, the signal is changed to " The
United States mail" if the Canima, and the "English mail"
if it is the steamer from Halifax, which comes into St.
George once a month on her way to St. Thomas.
The Canima arrived a little after five o'clock this after
noon, and brought about forty passengers, more than thirty
of whom are at the hotel ; and the bustle of their arrival and
the excitement of getting our letters and papers have nearly
turned our heads, having been just three weeks to a day
without hearing one word from home, either by letter or
newspaper. The steamer is off again on Thursday, to be
back, we hope, in two weeks from to-day.

28 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.

VI.

Hamilton Hotel. March 3, 1875.
From this sunny clime I address you once more, and I
hope by this time the rigor of your winter has abated, and
you are beginning to know something about the pleasures
of spring. For the last week or more, the weather here has
been delightful, so warm and sunny, more like summer than
winter. By the last Canima, Dr. Moffat, from Littleton,
came here, and when he arrived he found the thermometer
just one hundred degrees higher than he left it in New
Hampshire five days before.
On Thursday, the twenty-fifth of February, the Canima
sailed, — once more leaving us for nearly a fortnight without
mail communication with our home.
We went by invitation on that day to visit Rev. G. Tuck
er, rector of Smith and Hamilton. On our way we stopped
at an arrow-root factory, the only one on the island, where
we witnessed the operation of peeling the root, grinding,
washing, drying, pressing it, and making it ready for pack
ing and shipping. Between thirty and forty persons, men,
women, and children, are employed there, and we were much
interested in all we saw. Before we reached Mr. Tucker's,
we passed the mahogany tree, of which I made casual men
tion in one of my letters. This tree is twenty years old, the
trunk seven feet in circumference, spreading out, when
about four feet from the ground, into numerous and grace
ful branches. It is nearly flat at the top. The leaf is of a
dark and glossy green.
Mr. Tucker took us a delightful drive, skirting Harrington
sound, a charming sheet of water, reminding us of the Scot
tish lochs. We stopped at the " Devil's Hole," a shockingly
bad name, I am aware, but then " there's nothing in a name,"
you know, and there were two clergymen in our party to fend
off the evil one ! This " hole " is on the south-western shore

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 29
of the sound, having no connection with it, however ; but
there is a subterranean connection with the ocean on the
south side of the island, and by this hidden passage it is so
well supplied with water that fish are put in there to be
kept till wanted. At present the principal kind is " group
ers" — horrid looking things they are, too, with thick red
lips, and great teeth.
But among these unsightly objects, there was a fish of
such a lovely blue color that it is called the "angel-fish."
This, as well as the "groupers," makes, I am told, good
eating. Then we drove on to a glen, where, after leaving
the carriage, we had to make our way through a dense
thicket of shrubs and trees, among which was the coffee
plant, bearing an abundance of red berries, each berry con
taining two kernels of coffee. This glen was particularly
rich in ferns, some of them very large.
At dinner we had a dish new to us, — a pudding made of
the cassava root, a deadly poison if not properly dried and
cooked. Being assured by our kind hostess that all poison-
1 ous qualities had been thoroughly banished from it, we par
took freely of it, and found it very toothsome. And speak
ing of eating, reminds me that delicious puddings and cake
are made of arrow-root ; and I hope to go home so well
armed and equipped with both arrow-root and recipes for
cooking it, as to be able to regale my friends with some
palatable compounds.
After dinner we rowed across Harrington sound to Trunk
island, belonging to Mr. Musson, a relative of Mrs. Tucker's,
who is building a house there in a picturesque spot among
the cedars. Mr. Musson has already passed his fourscore
years, and is building this house, as he says, to spend the
remainder of his days in. As there are no people on the
island except his own servants, his days are not likely to be
much disturbed, there being no access to the island but by
boats. The views of the opposite shore from all parts of
the island are extremely pretty. As we rowed back, toward

30 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
the close of the day, the water was so smooth and clear that
every object near the shore was reflected in it. Nothing
could exceed the beauty of coloring that lay over the land
and the sea.
Sunday, the twenty- eighth, was the first Sunday we had
spent in Hamilton for six weeks, Dr. Eames preaching in
the Cathedral on the evening of that day. I have spoken
before, I think, of this Cathedral. As service is held there
every day, we often go, and I feel as much at home as in
our own church in Concord. Here, as in churches in for
eign countries, there is a very deep chancel, in which, out
side of the rail, of course, there are eight pews occupied by
the civil, military, and naval dignitaries. In one of these
pews two seats have been assigned to us. The music is
exceedingly good, and the services very attractive. One
thing I must speak about, that has greatly attracted my
attention in all the churches I have attended here, and that
is, there is no talking in the church, the occupants of one
pew or slip not speaking to those of another, even though
they may not have met for some time, till they have left the
church. I wish we could see this custom observed in our
own churches at home, where the laughing and chattering
and exchanging compliments in the sacred edifice are car
ried to a lamentable extent. And one thing more I must say
of the services in all the churches on the island, and that is,
the hymns are sung much more rapidly than at home, which
tends to make the singing far more spirited than in our
churches. And I may indulge in a little personal remark
here, which is, that we have not attended one church, even
in the most distant part of the island, without seeing some
one in the congregation whom we have met before. Of
course this makes us feel less and less like strangers.
Yesterday we visited Miss Tucker, in Smith parish, five
miles from here. Her house is charming, looking like an
English abbey, with its trellised porch and its pointed win
dows. I have before said that the houses here are mostly

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 3 1
of one story, consequently there is no attic. The ceilings
are generally carried up into the roof, and finished off in
arches or miniature domes, thus giving each room a lofty
and airy appearance.
Miss Tucker's grounds are very extensive, and she has the
greatest variety of fruit-trees that I have ever seen. In
addition to those I have mentioned in other letters, I saw
there a sappodilla, which bears a sort of custard-apple, pome
granate, abacado pear, which, by the way, seems to be more
like a vegetable than a fruit, being somewhat of the vegeta
ble marrow species, and grape fruit, bearing a kind of orange,
which, on account of its growing in clusters on the tree, has
received the name of " grape fruit." Most of these trees
are not now in fruit, one season having just gone by and
the other not yet come. We saw, too, a calabash tree, which
bears a kind of gourd, made by the colored people into dip
pers and bowls. Over this a rose-bush has scrambled, and
on the very top of the tree are large clusters of red roses.
Over many of the trees on those grounds the convolvulus
has spread in rich luxuriance, and as the vine springs from
tree to tree, weaving in fantastic shapes around the branches,
it presents the appearance of fairy bowers. In many places
this vine was in full bloom, its deep, purplish blue in charm
ing contrast to the thick green foliage around.
We felt more than a common interest in the owner of
this beautiful estate, when she told us she was of Rhode
Island descent, her grandfather, William Brown, having been
born in Providence, and having there married a daughter of
Governor Wanton. Some time after his marriage he moved
to England, and there Miss Tucker's mother was born. Mr.
Tucker, a native of Bermuda, while on a visit to England,
married Miss Brown, and brought her to this lone isle of
the sea, to the very house we have just visited.
Miss Tucker showed us very interesting relics of her
Providence ancestry, among them a silver dial, the size of
an old-fashioned dollar, on which is engraved a sort of min-

32 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
iature almanac, showing on what day of each month the
days of the week would fall. This is a curious relic of the
past, and I never saw one like it before.
Another delightful place we have visited is Mrs. Stowe's,
where every new-comer to the island is heartily welcomed.
It lies on the Sound, before entering the harbor of Ham
ilton, and the water views are varied and charming. There,
in addition to many other trees, we saw the mangrove, a low,
thick tree, growing in marshy places, the branches bending
down into the water, taking root and springing up again,
thus increasing to an endless extent. We also saw the
" cherrie moya," its fruit like the sugar-apple I mentioned in
one of my letters, only very much larger and more luscious.
The little coves with their clear water, far down in
which you see the fish darting in and out among beds of
coral and sea-weeds, gems of islands studding the blue sea, —
all these form a picture so perfect that we go again and
again to gaze upon it.
In one of the most sheltered nooks on this charming shore
is a cottage nicknamed " honey-moon cottage," because it is
often hired by newly-married people, in which they may
spend their first month of wedded bliss. Roses and other
flowers trellis the verandah ; and in front lies a tiny bay,
over which the lights and shades play with magic effect.
Rowing in a little boat in and out among the rocky and
wooded islets in this azure sea, bathed in the sweet air and
the genial light, is almost too much happiness for this world
of sin and sorrow and care. Mrs. Stowe would be glad to
rent this cottage for the season ; and if one would like to
exchange the cold of a northern winter for this sunny clime,
I know of no sweeter place in all this fair isle.
And thus we spend our days here, strolling about where
our fancy leads us, and where kind friends invite us. Some
of the visitors here think Bermuda "a very slow place,"
characterizing it as the country where one can do nothing
with the utmost success. What we ourselves do here may

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 33
not amount to much in the long run, but it pleases us, and
we find not one moment of this holiday hanging heavily '
upon our hands. And when we go back to our home, and
take up our daily routine of cares and duties, laid by only
for a little time, those burdens will be sweetened and light
ened by the memories of the dear days spent in this " isle
of beauty.''

VIL
Hamilton, Bermuda, March 8, 1875.
Messrs. Editors : The Canima arrived this morning,
and our letters bring us the welcome news that the Doctor's
services can be supplied till after Easter ; so we shall stay a
month longer, intending now to leave on the 8th of April.
As this is a stormy season to be on the coast, and as it is
still very cold in New England, we are glad to defer going
home till the weather has become warmer and more settled.
We do a little sight-seeing almost every day, and are by no
means tired of our island home. Every day and every hour,
even, we find something new to admire, or we make some
new acquaintance to increase our interest in Bermuda and
its inhabitants.
We were not able to visit St. George's island till we had
been here more than seven weeks. Almost every day we
talked of going, and each of those days it ended in talk.
First one engagement and then another prevented, and when
we did set the day to go, it would either be stormy, or some
one of the party intending to go would be kept at home for
some reason or other. On Wednesday, the 3d of March,
our expedition set forth, and we were gone from nine in the
morning till six in the afternoon, and a most enjoyable time
we had, too. Our open carriage held five, and as we were
3

34 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
all pleased with ourselves and each other, it was a " mutual
admiration society." And then, the day was so lovely, it
would have been wicked not to have been happy. Not a
cloud obscured the brightness of the sky, and even the un
ruly winds of Bermuda were stilled. It is about ten miles
to St. George, the road winding round and round, now on a
jutting promontory, and now along a sheltered cove, the
water everywhere of such a variety of lovely hues that at
every turn we uttered fresh exclamations of delight. We
went by one road and came back by another, so we had an
opportunity of seeing all the beauties of the way. Going,
we visited two caves ; coming back, two more. As I am
not writing a guide-book, it is not necessary for me to specify
these caves, or to say which we found the most beautiful or
wonderful. Each was perfect in its way. Before reaching
each cave, we had to leave the carriage and walk some dis
tance through trees and shrubs, the coffee-plant, oranges,
lemons, limes, oleanders, and cedars growing in profusion.
Picking our way over rough and stony places, clambering
down rude steps, stooping to avoid the rocks over our heads,
our walks through the caves were anything but easy. Mar
shalled by a sable attendant carrying lights, we crept through
the subterranean passages, not daring to look up till we
could stand on some safe place, and then, after the dry pal
metto leaves and brush which had been carried in were set
on fire, we gazed about with admiration mingled with awe.
Far above our heads stretched the rocky roof, from which
hung stalactites, some immense in size, others slim and
tapering, looking like the most delicate fret-work. In two
or three of the caves was water, and far down in its depths
were reflected the blazing bushes, our eager faces, and the
towering pinnacles above us. Openings in and out among
the rocks revealed vaulted chambers, each one calling forth
repeated bursts of admiration. And then, the air was so
soft and sweet, no unpleasant dampness about it, that the
most delicate invalid need not be afraid to breathe it. It

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 35
was all so wonderful that I feel no words of mine could do
justice to it, unless I should go into the most minute de
scription, and that I have not time to write, — and even if I
had, I am afraid it would not be printed.
Near the Walsingham cave is a calabash tree, under which
it is said Moore often sat when he was here in 1804 (I think
it was). Of course visitors are very desirous to get a cala
bash from this celebrated tree, but, although I hinted pretty
strongly to that effect, no attention whatever seemed to
be paid by the owner to my wishes. At last I spoke out
plainly, " Can I not have one ?" The answer was that they
were too high up to be reached. But I spied, not far away,
a long pole ; so I said, " Knock one down with that pole !"
"Perseverance conquers difficulties" is an ancient maxim,
and my pertinacity had its reward, and I came away the
possessor of a calabash from Moore's tree ; and I intend to
take it home and have it made into a drinking-cup, — for
cold water, of course.
In former times, the visitor to St. George had to cross a
ferry, but lately a causeway has been built over a series of
reefs and Longbird island, ending in a swing bridge for boats
to pass. This causeway was commenced in 1867 and fin
ished in 1 87 1, and cost the colony thirty-two thousand
pounds (one hundred and sixty thousand dollars). The
whole length is nearly two miles, and the drive across it is
delightful, — on our right a succession of islands, on our
left the open sea. The situation of the town of St. George
is very fine, rising up in steep acclivities from the sea, its
narrow streets and white houses making me think of Malta.
The harbor is commodious, well fortified, and far more easily
accessible than that of Hamilton. It is a sleepy old place,
however, not much going on except when the Halifax steamer
stops there, on her way to and from St. Thomas. On a high
hill back of the town are the barracks, a large number of
troops being constantly stationed there. The view from this
hill is magnificent, — before you St. David and other islands,

36 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
behind, the sea stretching far away. Near the barracks a
new church is going up, built of the white stone of the island,
and some say it is to excel, when done, Trinity here. The
parish church is down in the town, and is one of the oldest
in Bermuda. We regretted not being able to go over to St.
David, but as the only approach to it is by a long ferry, we
had not the time for it. We hope to go to St. George again,
however, as our stay in Bermuda is to be prolonged, and then
we shall be able to "do up" the neighborhood.
Near one of the caves we visited, on our way back from
St. George, grows one of the most lovely and singular plants
I ever saw, called the " shell-plant." It has a large leaf and
a long stalk, from which in perpendicular rows hung more
than two dozen bell-shaped flowers, each flower tipped with
the most delicate roseate tints, like the lip of a shell : hence
the name.
We devoted last Saturday morning to the barracks here,
and witnessed a parade of the troops. I do not profess to
know much about military tactics (or anything else, for that
matter), but certainly their evolutions and drill seemed to me
wonderful. The precision with which every movement was
made showed how the body could be trained, and how ex
actly like a living machine a soldier must be, obeying in the
minutest manner every word of command.
In the afternoon we called on Mr. Saltus, who lives in a
house nearly two hundred years old, his ancestral home-
The house is two stories in height, and all the wood-work is
of cedar, some of the lower rooms being ceiled with great
timbers of it. I never saw such an extensive collection
of heavy, old-fashioned furniture, — high-post bedsteads, tall
chests of drawers, immense chests for holding bed linen,
chairs, side-boards, and dressing-tables, — all, with one or two
exceptions, made of the cedar of the island, and all kept in
the most perfect order. The treasures in that house, in the
way of furniture, coins, and other antique objects, are enough
to make a lover of such things die with envy. The grounds

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 37
are extensive, finely kept, abounding in fruit-trees of every
kind incident to this region. They slope down to the water's
edge ; and, in a little basin shut in by rocky islets, there is a
perfect gem of a bath-house, so convenient in all its arrange
ments that I longed to plunge into the clear stream.
Sunday was one of the loveliest days we have had, bright
and warm. We spent it in Paget and Warwick, Dr. Eames
preaching in both of those churches. To show the advance
of the season here in contrast with yours at home, I will just
say, that at dinner at Paget rectory we were regaled with
delicious pease, potatoes, tomatoes, and strawberries fresh
from Mr. Lough's garden, and with spring duck hatched this
winter. The Canima brought to-day more than thirty passengers,
most of whom came to this hotel ; so I imagine it must be
pretty well filled, and doing a good business.

VIII. *
Hamilton Hotel, March 23, 1875.
All day yesterday our eyes were longingly turned sea
ward, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Canima, but she came
not. This morning, however, she arrived, bringing us good
news of the loved ones at hame. Amid the bustle of her
arrival, Death came gently into this house and took from
earth the soul of one of its inmates, Dr. Brolaski, of Penn
sylvania, who was here when we came, and who has been an
invalid for some time, but not considered in a precarious
state till last evening. And thus our world here goes on.
In one room there are laughter and merriment * in another,
tears and great sorrow.
Since the date of my last letter we have been " on the go "
a good deal of the time, enjoying to the utmost the delight-

38 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
ful weather with which we have been favored. On the
morning of the second Sunday in March, Dr. Eames preached
in the chapel at Prospect, the congregation composed almost
entirely of the troops stationed there. To see that army of
red-coats filing in, the clanking of swords mingling with the
military tread, was a sight in itself well worth seeing. And
the music surpassed anything I have ever heard this side of
the Atlantic ocean. There were eight or ten wind instru
ments, and the men's voices, blending with these in perfect
harmony and time, produced an effect almost overpowering.
And the responses were given with so much fervor and at
the same time with such military precision, and the men
were so attentive and orderly, that altogether the service
was one I would not have willingly missed.
We have been again to St. George, and this time stayed
all night at the Globe hotel, a very quiet and comfortable
house kept by Mrs. Foster. Our room was in an adjacent
building, and, as we had to cross a little court to get to it, I
was reminded very much of some of the quaint old inns in
foreign lands. In fact, everything in and about St. George
has such a foreign aspect, that it really seemed strange to
hear our mother tongue spoken, for French, Italian, and even
Arabic would have appeared in perfect keeping with the sur
roundings. We took a boat and rowed about in the harbor
for several hours, the water clear, and lovely in hue, and
smooth as an inland lake. The whole scene — the town
rising up on the hillside, the wooded islands, almost hem
ming us in, yet giving us occasional peeps of the blue sea
beyond — was one of incomparable beauty.
We crossed to St. David, which is one of the five largest
islands, and the farthest east by north in the cluster. It is
said that many of the inhabitants of St. David have never
been off that island, and that until lately those benighted
individuals have never seen a horse. Now, however, there
are two horses on the island, " and one of them," our inform
ant added, "is a donkey !" We went up to a high point of

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 39
land to get the view, passing large patches of potatoes and
onions, well advanced in growth. A part of our way lay
through a picturesque tangle of shrubs and bushes, so that
our transit was by no means '• o'er flowery beds of ease."
We came to a house inhabited by a black man, who has
arrived at the advanced age of eighty-five, but who is still
erect and apparently in the use of all his faculties, and who
has the simple and yet courtly manners of a prince. From
his eyes, his features, and his hair, he is evidently more of
Spanish than of African descent. He lives alone, his wife
having died four or five years ago. He told us that he had
plenty of relations who would be glad to come and live with
him, but he did not want to be troubled with them. He
owns more land on the island than any other inhabitant.
Although he lives nearly a mile from the church, he walks
there every Sunday, and he spoke with touching pathos of
the services of the day before, when he received the Holy
Communion. From our elevated position on this island we
had a magnificent view of the sea sweeping around us on
every side, except in the rear, where lay St. George and its
adjacent islands. Far out to sea the white waves showed
where were the hidden reefs that are such a natural wall of
protection to these islands. We clambered down to the
shore, where the waves gently kissed the rock-bound coast,
full of crannies and nooks in which the water seemed to
play at " hide-and-seek." There were several caves, and in
one a spring of clear fresh water came gurgling down, giv
ing us a refreshing draught after our long and warm walk.
Our guide crept into one hole, and soon after we saw his
sable head appearing from the earth at quite a little dis
tance from where he disappeared from mortal view. In fact,
the whole coast of these islands is full of caves and subter
ranean passages, which in the old buccaneering times must
have been famous places for hiding treasures got by piracy
and rapine.
On our way back we stopped at Fort Cunningham, on an

40 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
island that guards the entrance to the harbor. Here for
several years the government has been at work building a
fort of such immense strength, that it is said to have no
equal out of England. One might reasonably be allowed to
wonder why such a fort should be deemed necessary in a
place so seemingly unimportant as Bermuda, but, in case of
a war with any foreign power, England 'might find these
islands of great value as a depot for naval and military
stores. And the building of such a fort has given work to
many who would otherwise have nothing to do. We re
turned to our hotel to a three o'clock dinner, and then went
up to the barracks, where the croquet club plays every Mon
day afternoon. The croquet ground is one of the most per
fect I have ever seen, the lawn green and smooth as velvet.
In a grove near by, the military band discoursed most excel
lent music, while the groups scattered around under the
trees added to the picturesqueness of the scene. On the
croquet lawn the players moved about, keeping time and
step with the music, while attendants passed tea and sweet
biscuits. When the playing was over, we went to the top of the hill
in the rear of the barracks, and saw the sun go down in all
his glory, leaving over the vast expanse of waters a golden
radiance which slowly faded away, when the moon came up
and cast a silvery halo over the sleeping sea. How lovely,
yet how majestic, it all was !
I like St. George ever so much, and should I ever come to
Bermuda again (which may the dear Lord in His infinite
goodness grant), I should like to spend two or three weeks
in that picturesque old town.
On St. Patrick's day the " Bermuda hunt club " had a
" meet " at Mount Langton. As there are no foxes or deer
to hunt on these islands, this club gets up, now and then, a
mock hunt. Two horsemen in huntsman array go ahead,
scattering pieces of paper in their wake, and the remainder
of the hunting party, on horseback, of course, go wherever

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 41
these scraps of paper dictate. On the day above mentioned,
we went, by invitation, to Mount Langton (Government
House) to witness one of these performances ; and it was
an animated scene, I can assure you, the spectators arriving
in carriages, while various members of the hunting party
galloped about on their fiery steeds, impatient for the chase,
which, as it commenced on the government grounds, we had
a fine opportunity of seeing. Several ladies were on horse
back, and they entered fully into the spirit of the scene.
Away they all went, at a given signal, leaping fences and
stonewalls, and darting across the country, while we followed
in our carriages so as to meet them at a given spot on their
return ; and then it was such a pretty sight to see them
come galloping along the brow of a hill, leaping over walls,
fences, ditches, and every other obstruction in their headlong
career. This was more like an English hunt than anything
we have ever seen out of dear old England, and we enjoyed
it immensely. One day last week we took a long walk across the island
to Hungry bay, on the south shore, where the rocks are
heaped up in wild confusion, and where the waves play mad
pranks among them. Many of the rocks are full of caves
and openings made by the surging waters, so that at every
turn new wonders unfold in rock scenery. Nothing can
exceed in beauty the coloring of the sea, — here a bright
green, there a deep blue, the lights and shadows changing
every moment, greatly adding to the witchery of the whole
scene. We are now in the last week of Lent, and there are ser
vices in the church twice a day, which are far better attended
than ordinary week-day services at home.
In one of my letters I spoke of the labors of the clergy
here. The predecessor of the present incumbent of this
parish was rector here for forty-one years, and was never off
these islands in all that time. What would our roving clergy
at home say to such a life ? I really do not know which is

42 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
the most to be pitied, him who all those years preached in
one place, or those who seldom, or never, had a chance of
hearing any one else preach'.

IX.
Hamilton Hotel, April 5, 1875.
The Canima came in this morning promptly on time, hav
ing made the easiest passage that has been known for more
than a year. May she have an equally good one on her
return trip !
I will now review, as briefly as I can, the events of our life
here since my last letter. Good Friday was a peculiarly
solemn day here, all places of business being closed, not even
the local mails being sent out. We attended St. John's, the
parish church, which was filled, the congregation being as
large as any I have seen on a Sunday. All the dignitaries
of state, and the army and navy stationed here, were present.
After the sermon, the rector, Rev. Mark James, called upon
the congregation to kneel in silent prayer, to ask the Lord
to deepen in their hearts the solemn impression of the morn
ing's service. It was one of the most impressive scenes I
ever witnessed : every knee in that large congregation bent,
every head bowed, while the most profound silence reigned
for several minutes.
Easter was one of the loveliest days I ever saw, at home
or abroad. The Cathedral was dressed with the most ex
quisite flowers, and banners of white and gold hung from
the reading-desks, the lectern, and the pulpit, while the altar
was literally covered with white and gold. The altar rail,
and the pews upon the chancel floor, were trimmed with
wreaths of green studded with white flowers, while in various
places, from masses of palms and ferns, sprang white lilies,

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 43
so great in size that those we see at home are as dwarfs or
babies compared to them. The Cathedral was full, both
morning and evening, the Governor, family, and suite, the
Admiral, who has just returned from a long cruise, his
family, and suite, being there. Almost every one in the
congregation, the feminine portion, at least, came out in new
attire on that day. The music was particularly fine, and
everything combined to make that a "high day." The
Doctor assisted in the services in the morning, and ad
ministered the Holy Communion, and in the evening he
preached, the congregation being the largest he has ever
addressed. Immediately after Easter, social festivities commenced,
and in consequence our engagements have been numerous.
In addition to evenings spent quietly with friends in
Hamilton, we were one evening at a party given by Hon.
S. S. Ingham, speaker of the Assembly, whose house com
mands exquisite views of the harbor studded with green isles.
One day we spent at Mr. Whitney's, who lives in a charm
ing spot on the shore of Harrington sound, and another day
took tea at Mr. Trott's, on the south shore of the island,
where the view over the ocean is magnificent.
Then there have been two meets of the " Bermuda hunt
club," so that altogether our time has been fully occupied.
On the south shore of this island, about five miles from
here, is a very interesting spot, — that where the discoverers
of these islands landed in 1543. They were Portuguese,
and in their company was one named Bermudez, and it is
said these islands derived their name from him. On a rock
is cut the date of their landing, and a cross and a few initials
may be traced ; but these are fast disappearing under the
marks of those modern adventurers who delight in leaving
their names on rocks and trees. From this rock, called
"Spanish rock," the view over the -sea was grand. The
water lay at our feet, " deeply, darkly, beautifully blue,"
while, miles way, the white-crested waves showed where the

44 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
hidden reefs were, — the terror of all seamen approaching
the coast. Farther down the shore are the sand hills, where
the white sand J*ias made such fearful strides that it has
buried in its deadly march, trees, and even a house, the
chimney of which may be seen rising from its sandy bed. In
the water near the shore are six large rocks, round and flat,
a little hollowed out in the centre by the action of the waves,
and the appearance of these rocks from the banks is very
striking. There is no beach in Bermuda on which the inhabitants
may drive and enjoy the cool breeze from the sea. Two or
three coves or bays, it is true, have a short stretch of smooth
sands, where at low tide one may walk and gather a few
shells ; but a beach like that at Newport or Rye is unknown
here. The coast everywhere is rocky and often inaccessible,
save to an expert climber. To compensate, however, for
this want of beach, the drives all along the shore are lovely.
In Bermuda there are no brooks or streams winding
through green meadows, or leaping over rocky beds. And
yet with even these drawbacks, Bermuda is to me inexpres
sibly lovely. I have driven or walked over almost all parts
of it, and everywhere I have seen many things to admire.
The sea, ever changing in its hue, is always a great source
of attraction to me. And although there are no mountains
here, there are so many hills that the surface of the country
is very undulating ; and as the roads wind in and out among
these hills, at every turn fresh beauties are revealed. Dear,
dear Bermuda, how much I love thee ! and my heart saddens
when I think how soon I must leave thee, perhaps never
more to return.
Added to the benefit derived from rest and the change of
air and scene, have been the companionship and acquaint
ance of some of the most delightful people I have ever met.
The Bermudians, both men and women, are intelligent, well
educated, and charming in their manners. I never was in
a place where there were so many accomplished singers and

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 45
players upon the piano. We have been at no house in an
evening where there has not been music of the highest
order. This seems the stranger to us, as so few American
ladies pay any attention to music after their marriage.
Here, every house of any note has a piano, and mother
and daughters play and sing delightfully. And they do it,
too, with so much readiness and ease that it adds greatly to
the merits of the performance, for they do not wait to be
teased and coaxed into it, as is too often the case in the
States, but seem to take the playing and singing as a part
of their duty and pleasure as hostesses.
The officers of church and state, army and navy, have led
a life of so much variety and action, that talking with them
is like a chapter in a fascinating novel, so full are they of
incidents and adventures they have encountered in their
jogging about all over the world. Equally at home in courts
and camps, they have served their Queen and country in the
chair of state, as well as on the field of battle. Many of
them have been in every country on the globe, and have
seen foreign life under its best aspects. On the sands of
Africa, on the burning plains of India, on the bloody fields
of Russia and Turkey, they were known as men who never
flinched in danger, but were ever ready to lay down their
lives at their country's call. Constantly meeting such peo
ple here has been one of the charms of our Bermudian life.
Since we came to Bermuda, Dr. Eames has preached
twenty-seven times, officiating in every church on the
island except two, — St. George and St. David. He has ad
ministered the Holy Communion five times, besides assist
ing many times in other parts of divine service. Our stay
here has been a very happy one to us, and we leave this
"enchanted isle" with great regret.
And now, as the attention of the people of the United
States is called to Bermuda, I wish to say a few words about
the expense of a sojourn here. The trip in the steamer
costs fifty dollars (in gold) down and back, though it is said

46 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
an opposition steamer is to be put on, in which the fare will
be much less. At the hotel here, where one can be very
comfortable, the prices range from two dollars (gold) to
three dollars fifty a day, according to the rooms, and the
length of the time one stays. All over the island are nice
houses, where the occupants are glad to take boarders, and
where, of course, there is more quiet, but less variety on the
table than at the hotel. I am told that good board can be
had in private houses at ten dollars a week. Then, if one
prefers to keep house, a cottage may be had for five or ten
dollars a month, and furniture can also be hired. In this
climate it is not necessary to have carpets. Servants' wages
are not high, a good cook asking from seven to ten dollars
a month, while chambermaids and table girls have about five
dollars. I do not know much of the price of provisions, but
I fancy there is not a great difference between here and at
home, beef and mutton being about the same here as there.
After the bitter winter just passed, I cannot imagine how
any person who can get away from such a climate can stay
in it, when in three or four days this island can be reached,
where frost and cold are " unknown terms."
April 8. And now our last calls are made, our adieus
said, and we are off for the steamer. May the dear Lord
send us a prosperous voyage, that we may soon arrive in
"the haven where we would be."

X.
Hamilton Hotel, Jan. 22, 1880.
I have now been here four weeks, and have been favored
with the loveliest weather imaginable, more like June than
mid-winter. Christmas was literally " among the roses," —
not hothouse roses, but grown in the open air, and sent in

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 47
the utmost profusion to decorate the churches. Among
wreaths of cedar and branches of palm, great white and
yellow and pink and red roses were mingled, making a mass
of color delightful to the eye, their sweet fragrance blend
ing well with the aromatic scent of the cedar and the subtle
essence of the palm.
Christmas is here a legal holiday, all places of business
closed, no local mails sent out or received. Everybody went
to church in the morning, and the remainder of the day was
given up to social festivities.
I find the hotel, under the management of the present
proprietor, George A. Farnham, in excellent order. The
grounds have been much improved, old shrubs and trees
trimmed or cut down, and new walks and flower-beds laid out.
Although we are on a small island, life is by no means
stagnant here, for there is something or other going on all
the time to interest and amuse. Two of the events of the
past week were the departure, in the Bellerophon, of Sir
Edward Inglefield, the former Admiral, and the arrival, in
the Northampton, of the new Admiral, Sir Francis Leopold
McClintock, who in a few days departed for the West Indies,
to be gone till the middle of March.
The Bellerophon has been on this station for six years,
bearing in that time the flags of three Admirals, — G. G.
Wellesley, Sir A. Cooper Key, and Sir Edward Inglefield.
Sir Leopold McClintock has had thus far a life full of
varied interest and experience, having been in active service
since 1838. He was connected for several years with expe
ditions sent out to the Arctic seas, and was commanding
officer in 1857, 1858, and 1859 of the Fox, sent at the ex
pense of Lady Franklin and her friends to find out some
thing concerning the fate of Sir John Franklin. He has
since published the journal he kept during that expedition,
making a book full of vivid pictures of life among those
frozen seas. He was knighted by Queen Victoria in 1869,
for the efforts he made for the discovery of the North-west
Passage.

48 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
Another event of last week was a special meeting, on
Wednesday, the 14th, of the Colonial Parliament, convened
by His Excellency Sir Robert Laffan, to take into consid
eration the subject of passing, or continuing, an act known
as the " Act for Constituting Courts of Marine Enquiry."
It seems that this act, which had been in existence since
1864, was allowed, through carelessness, to expire on the
last day of 1879, and, by a singular sort of fatality, within
a few hours after, a vessel with a valuable cargo was wrecked
under such suspicious circumstances that it was deemed
expedient to make an official inquiry into the facts, when it
was found that no such investigation could be made, owing
to the failure to continue the " Marine Court of Enquiry."
It was quite a brilliant scene, — the opening of the Parlia
ment. Before the entrance to Parliament House a guard
of honor from the 19th regiment was stationed, and as His
Excellency entered the grounds, the flag was run up, the
band playing " God save the Queen," the soldiers presenting
arms, Sir Robert Laffan, in the uniform of a major-general,
standing up in the carriage and returning the military salute.
Within the Council chamber the scene was no less brilliant
and animated. The officers of the army in their scarlet
coats emblazoned with gold, the Admiral and his staff in
their rich uniforms of blue and gold, the Chief-Justice in
his robes and wig, the Honorable Council around their table,
the ladies scattered about the room, all seemed more a pa
geant on the stage than a scene in real life.
After His Excellency had taken his seat, some little time
was consumed waiting for the House of Assembly to come
in. At length they made their appearance, headed by the
Speaker, Hon. S. S. Ingham, and the Attorney-General, the
Governor bowing to each one as he passed in and took his
place in a semi-circle in front. All in the Council chamber
stood while His Excellency read his speech, in a clear and
distinct voice. Fortunately for us, whom etiquette required
to stand, the speech was short, and the ceremony was soon

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 49
over, the House of Assembly retiring to their own building
where their business is done. His Excellency and Lady
Laffan shook hands with those in their immediate neighbor
hood, and the pageant was ended by more band playing out
side, and military salutes as the Governor drove away. But
that by no means finished the day. There was to be a hunt
in the afternoon, to close at Dr. Outerbridge's, eight or nine
miles from here. Many of the officers present and the Gov
ernor's staff belonging to the hunt, there was much riding
away in hot haste to be ready for that performance. Those
of us at the hotel who had been invited to Dr. Outerbridge's
hurried home for our dinner, and soon we were on our way,
meeting countless carriages full of joyous occupants intent
on the same " pursuit after happiness " that we were. About
a mile this side of Dr. Outerbridge's, we found the road lined
with carriages and pedestrians, and learned they were wait
ing to see the pageant pass by. Soon we heard the thrilling
notes of the huntsman's horn, and over the hills and through
the valley the gay riders dashed along, leaping fences and
darting out of sight, to make their final appearance at the
place of rendezvous, to which our steps were all tending.
Arriving at our place of destination, we found a brilliant
assemblage of the notables of the island, among them Sir
Robert and Lady Laffan. A bountiful collation was served,
and then the band sent forth its enticing strains, alluring
the votaries of the Terpsichorean art to the dancing-room,
where the "light fantastic" was tripped for two or three
hours. Sober people, like myself, who do not dance, soon
left, and we came home by the pale moonlight, along the
shore, where the "sounding sea" made soft melodies as it
gently beat upon the rock-bound coast.
Thursday afternoon I went to Mount Langton to pay my
respects to Sir Robert and Lady Laffan, where I met friends
from all parts of the island.
Sometimes I think the days go faster here than anywhere
else ; but perhaps one reason is that no one begins the day
4

50 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
very early. If you want to go shopping, you will find few
in readiness to wait on you before 9 : 30 or 10 o'clock.

XI.
Hamilton Hotel, Feb. 4, 1880.
We are now favored with the presence of the Lord Bishop
of Newfoundland, who also has the ecclesiastical charge of
Bermuda. His name is Llewellyn Jones. He was born
in Liverpool, England, and was educated at the college there
and at^Harrow, finishing at Cambridge, where he took his
degree in 1862. He was ordained Deacon in 1864, and at
the time of his election to the Episcopate was Vicar of Little
Hereford near Tenbury.
In former times the English government claimed the right
of nominating the Colonial Bishops, but lately has deputed
that right to the synod of each colony. The synod of New
foundland could not agree upon a candidate, and sent a
request to England that the Archbishop of Canterbury, the
Bishop of London, and the Secretary of the " Society for
the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts " should
select a man for them. Their choice fell upon Mr. Jones,
and he was consecrated May 1, 1878, and proceeded at once
to his see, which includes the great island of Newfoundland
and Labrador, said by many to be the largest see in the
world, particularly now that Bermuda is included in it. The
synod of Bermuda, after two or three meetings, decided, in
stead of choosing a Bishop of their own, to ask the Bishop
of Newfoundland to take their islands, as in former times,
under his Episcopal care ; to which he consented, and this is
first visit.
He entered at once upon his work, preaching the first
Sunday after his arrival in Trinity church here. He is a

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 5 1
fine-looking man, with the strong, earnest face of one who,
knowing his duty, will do it well, and will prove steadfast
to the end. His voice is charming, his enunciation so clear,
that not only every word but every syllable is distinctly
uttered. His sermons are excellent, practical, earnest, clear,
no attempt at rhetorical or oratorical flourish, but every
word to the point. He wears in church, over his Episcopal
robes, a hood of scarlet cloth, lined with rose-colored silk,
denoting that he is a Doctor in Divinity. He is addressed
as "my lord" or "your lordship." It is sometimes said that
the Colonial Bishops have no right to the title of " my lord,"
as they are not allowed to sit in the House of Lords. But,
though it is true they cannot sit in Parliament among the
Peers, they have, by courtesy and custom, the title of "my
lord." Here, perhaps, I may speak of a practice that pre
vails in the English church that is not known in ours.
I allude to the fact that a Bishop does not sign his own
name, as with us, but that of his diocese. For instance,
this Bishop, instead of writing his name " Llewellyn Jones,
Bishop of Newfoundland," writes it " Llewellyn, Newfound
land," and now that he has Bermuda under his charge, adds
"and Bermuda."
On Tuesday, Jan. 27, the hunt closed at "Woodlands,"
a charming place, occupied for more than a year past by
M. M. Hurd, Esq., of New York, formerly of the well-known
house of Hurd & Houghton. There were more than three
hundred persons present, and it was a very enjoyable occa
sion. Scattered over the grounds were groups of people
chatting and laughing. The hunters came on in great style,
leaping the last hurdles with as much life and vigor as
though it were the beginning and not the end of the race.
The inspiring notes of the military band soon attracted the
visitors to the house. Dancing was going on in two or
three rooms at the same time, while in the dining-room a
table was bountifully served, to which all did full justice. It
was such a pretty sight in the intervals of the dances to see

52 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
the ladies and their partners sauntering along the beautiful
grounds, while under the trees, in the avenue from the road
to the house, were carriages of every description. Mr. and
Mrs. Hurd, by their genial manners and abounding hospi
tality, have made themselves, and deservedly so, very popu
lar, not only to Bermudians but to every visitor here.
A few days since a number of invited guests went in a
steam-tug to Ireland island, six miles distant, where several
hours were delightfully spent on board Her Majesty's ship
Tenedos, a noble vessel, lately come from the Cape of Good
Hope, and soon to leave for the West Indies. The passage
down was lovely, winding in and out among the islands.
We were greeted on our arrival by a musical welcome from
a nice band on board, and in a few minutes the officers,
in their uniforms of blue and gold, were choosing their part
ners, and waltzes, polkas, galops, and lancers followed each
other in quick succession, till it grew dark and time for us
to leave. Waiters were constantly passing with refresh
ments, so we did not have to come away hungry.
While looking on the gay scene, nothing interested me
more than to see at the farther end of the ship some of the
sailors having a dance among themselves, keeping good time
with the music, and evidently enjoying themselves immensely.
A " troop-ship " has arrived, having on board the 99th
regiment, more than a thousand men, fresh from the seat of
war among the Zulus. This regiment is to replace the 19th,
" the Princess of Wales' own," which is to go to St. George,
and the 46th ordered home. Coming and going are fre
quent events among the military here, no regiment ever be
ing quartered in these islands longer than three years. I
have said more than once in these letters, that to me one of
the greatest charms of Bermudian life is thus meeting per
sons who have been in all parts of the world. The civil,
military, and naval officers have served their country in the
distant East, the far-off West, the ice-bound North, and the
sunny South, their watchword ever " God save the Queen."

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 53

XII.

Hamilton Hotel, March 29, 1880.
Life here, since my last letter, has flowed smoothly on.
Lent has come in with its frequent and solemn services, and
balls and parties and festivities are over for a while. The
day before Lent I went to St. Mark's church, in the parish
of Smith, to attend a wedding, in which the coachman of
William Whitney, Esq., was the bridegroom. According to
the English custom, the groom, attended by his " best man "
and five groomsmen, came first to the church and met at the
altar the bride, accompanied by six bridesmaids, all in white.
The marriage ceremony was performed by Rev. George
Tucker, the rector of the parish, and everything went off
very nicely. The fact that all the wedding party were col
ored people did not detract at all from our interest in the
occasion. Mr. Whitney has built, in a part of his beautiful
grounds, a neat little cottage for the newly-wedded pair.
That same evening a number of friends were invited to
Pembroke Hall, the hospitable abode of Mr. and Mrs. Reid,
to eat pan-cakes — those toothsome viands being supposed
to be peculiarly appropriate for Sh rove-Tuesday.
In the beautiful grounds of Pembroke Hall is a great
curiosity — a black lily. When Mr. and Mrs. Reid were in
the Holy Land, in the spring of 1876, they found growing
wild in the uplands near Hebron a large, dark lily. They
were greatly attracted by it, and did not rest until they had
obtained two or three roots, which they sent home to be
planted. These were set out that autumn, and the next
March, 1877, flowered, and each March since. This lily is
in shape like our large calla, only it is of so dark and rich a
purple as to look almost black. Mr. Reid says in all the
great gardens of Europe no such thing as this lily has ever
been seen.
One week I spent three days with my friends, Mr. and

54 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
Mrs. Whitney, at their charming residence, Mont Clare, on
the borders of Harrington Sound. Every year since they
have lived there they have been making improvements in
their house and grounds, till they have now rendered it one
of the loveliest places in these islands. We had delightful
drives twice each day I was there, so that the visit was like
one grand holiday. One of our drives was to Prospect, the
military station for this part of Bermuda, where the 99th
regiment, recently returned from Zululand, gave a reception,
which was largely attended by persons from all parts of the
islands. Around the mess-room, on tables and hanging on
the walls, were curiosities and trophies from that late scene
of war, the sight of which interested me greatly, and also
planted a desire in my heart to be the owner of something
that had come from that distant region. Whether this de
sire will be gratified or not remains to be seen. There was
a large collection of water-colored sketches and photographs
of scenes made famous in the war, among them of the spot
where the poor French prince lost his life. In looking at
it, one could scarcely keep back the tears ; and how forcibly
came to the mind those touching words in holy writ, " He
was the only son of his mother, and she was a widow."
While within the rooms there was much to attract and
interest, without, the scene was picturesque in the extreme.
Under the trees were groups of people sitting or walking
about, the red coats of the officers making a bit of bright
coloring, while the band of the regiment sent forth its most
enlivening strains. At our feet was spread out a lovely
panorama of hill and dale, white houses peeping out from
the forests of cedar, and beyond stretched the sheeny sea
gemmed near the shore with "green islets." Oh ! how love
ly it all was ! The sky so blue, with its soft fleecy clouds,
the water rivalling the sky in brilliancy, the balmy air, the
voices of the people blending with the notes of the instru
ments as they swelled out and up, all formed a scene not
soon to be forgotten.

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 55
The next Sunday afternoon I drove to Hamilton parish
church, on the opposite shore of Harrington Sound, one of
the oldest churches in Bermuda. One must not confound
that Hamilton with this : they are two entirely distinct
places, several miles distant from each other. This Hamil
ton where we are is in the parish of Pembroke ; that Hamil
ton is a parish of itself. The drive around the Sound that
afternoon was too lovely for words. The soft music of the
tiny waves breaking gently on the shore, the water of the
brightest blue in some places and of the most exquisite
green in others, blending in little nooks and sheltered bays
with the most delicious opal tints, formed a scene that had
more of heaven in it than of earth. In a pretty spot on the
immediate shore of the Sound stands the venerable church.
Rising up the sides of a hill and stretching down to the
water's edge is the churchyard, where many generations are
sleeping their last sleep beneath the shadow of the sacred
edifice in which while on earth they had said their prayers,
chanted God's praises, and heard the words of eternal life.
This church, as well as that in Smith parish, is under the
pastoral care of Rev. George Tucker. Since I was first
here five years ago, St. Mark's church, in the parish of
Smith, has had a handsome tower built ; and last year a
fine-toned bell was put in the tower, the gift of Mr. and Mrs.
Whitney, who live in that parish and who were married in
that church. The drive home from church that evening
was one never to be forgotten, like a sweet idyl, the young
moon shedding her soft light, the perfect stillness of the
evening only broken by the horse's hoofs striking upon the
rocky soil, and the gentle sough of the wind through the
cedars wafting their rich odors and steeping the senses in
bliss unutterable.
Last week I went to two Confirmations, held by the
Bishop, — the first at Warwick on Monday, the second at
Paget on Wednesday, — both these parishes under the faith
ful ministration of Rev. J. B. L. Lough, who has not been off

56 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
these islands in eight years. At Warwick forty-four were
confirmed, at Paget sixty-eight. As the manner of the
Bishop in Confirmation differs somewhat from that of the
American Bishops, I will dwell a little upon the subject.
In the first place, Confirmation here is a service quite by
itself, not preceded by morning or evening prayer. The
candidates sit together in the body of the church, the males
by themselves, the females by themselves, the latter in white
dresses and veils, giving them a pretty and modest appear
ance. The Bishop does not confirm at the chancel-rail, as
he thinks that is only to be approached by them when they
partake of the Holy Communion, but at the steps of the
outer chancel, or, when there is no outer chancel, at a tem
porary kneeling-place in the centre of the church. While
in the act of Confirmation, his chaplain stands on his left,
bearing the pastoral staff, which is of ebony, with the crook
of ivory. The Bishop uses only the right hand in confirm
ing, and after administering that rite, when he pronounces
the blessing, takes the staff in his left hand, raising the right
hand as in the usual attitude of benediction. Both before
and after the rite of Confirmation he addressed them in a
simple, earnest, practical manner, and if they act up to those
addresses they will indeed live godly lives till they come to
God's eternal kingdom. At both of these Confirmations, all
that were confirmed were young people, — no middle-aged or
old persons, as is often the case in our churches at home.
The reason for this is, that here they are all born and bap
tized in the Church of England, and of course " ratify and
confirm the vows made for them at their baptism " as soon
as they come to years of discretion, while at home many
come into our church at quite an advanced period of life.
The majority of those I have seen confirmed thus far have
been blacks.
Now, to go back for a few minutes. His lordship lives,
while here, in what is called " the Bishop's Lodge," a veran-
dahed cottage belonging to the diocese, close by Trinity

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 57
church. In front of the " Lodge " waves a flag, a red cross
on a white ground, in the centre of the cross a mitre en
circled by a wreath of oak leaves.

XIII.
Hamilton Hotel, April 22, 1880.
The great point of interest to the Bermudians lately has
been the visit of the royal princes, Albert Victor and
George, sons of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales. As they
are still boys and " middies " in the royal navy, their visit
has naturally been more quiet than if they had arrived at
mature age. At Government House, Lady Laffan gave on
the 2d of April a fancy dress ball, a majority of the guests
being young people. The youthful dancers, in their gay,
varied dresses, presented a pretty sight.
On Saturday, the 3d of April, Sir Leopold and Lady
McClintock gave their first reception at Clarence Hill, to
which people came from all parts of the island. I had
several glimpses of the young princes — quiet, unassum
ing-looking boys in their midshipman uniform, the eldest
strongly resembling his father, the youngest looking more
like his mother. They planted on the lawn, in the course
of the afternoon, the shoot of an Avocado pear-tree, which
hereafter is to be known as "the Princes' tree."
In the dining-room, dancing was kept up vigorously all
the afternoon, while in the spacious verandah were tables
with refreshments of various kinds, to which all had access
without formality or ceremony, the band from the North
ampton giving their choicest music. The grounds were
looking their loveliest, and in and out among the trees, and
along the margin of the sea, gay groups of people were
walking, their chatting and laughing mingling prettily with

5-3 letters from Bermuda.
the musical strains and with the ripple of the water as it
gently kissed the "ocean's wave-beat shore." Far, far away
stretched the blue sea, gemmed here and there with green
islets and dotted with white sails.
On Tuesday the Bishop held Confirmation in St. John's
church, Pembroke, when one hundred and fifteen received
that Apostolic rite, and on Thursday afternoon thirty-nine
were confirmed in St. Mark's church, Smith ; but as in my
last letter I spoke quite at length on the Confirmations I
had witnessed, I will say no more now on that subject, ex
cepting to add that of course " his lordship " has held like
services in other parts of the island where I have not been,
as I cannot go to everything.
Last Friday there was another afternoon dance at Mount
Langton, which was largely attended. The hunt closed
there too, which brought quite a number of riders, two or
three ladies among them. I think all the Bermudian world
was at Government House that afternoon, to say nothing of
visitors from "foreign parts." The young princes seemed
to enjoy everything, the hunt and the dancing, and were
themselves " the observed of all observers."
On the afternoon of the 14th a very interesting service
was held in St. Paul's church, Paget, when an excellent ser
mon was preached by the Bishop on the state of the depart
ed : " God having provided some better thing for us, that
they without us should not be made perfect." To those
who have laid away in the grave their dearest and best, the
sermon was full of sweet thoughts and holy comfort.
A large lot of land adjoining the churchyard has recently
been bought by the Hon. Eugenius Harvey and given to this
parish. After the service in the church, this addition to the
churchyard was solemnly consecrated by the Bishop. At
the entrance gate he was met by the rector and many of the
parishioners, when the petition to consecrate the ground
was read by Mr. Harvey, after which the Bishop, preceded
by his chaplain bearing the pastoral staff, and followed by

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 59
the clergy and a large concourse of people, walked around
the new portion, saying alternate verses of the 49th and
88th Psalms of David. Returning to the starting-point, the
sentence of consecration was read by the chaplain and
signed by the Bishop, and after this was sung that grand
hymn, " Brief life is here our portion." Then followed the
prayer of consecration by the Bishop, and " the blessing of
peace." I have seen a good many things in my life, but this was
the first time I ever witnessed the consecration of a church
yard, and the scene was one not soon to be forgotten. The
Bishop in his robes, the clergy in their surplices and hoods,
the long procession of people winding in and out among the
cedars, the voice of prayer and of praise swelling out upon
the soft, sweet air, the beautiful church with its tapering
spire, the countless graves of those sleeping their last sleep
within the shadow of the sacred temple where they had
often found peace and rest amid the cares and turmoils of
life, all combined to produce an impression on my mind that
will not readily be effaced.
The clergy and invited guests went to the rectory to tea,
where the interest of the occasion was heightened by finding
out that it was the birthday of the rector, Rev. J. B. L. Lough.
This morning the Lord Bishop of Newfoundland and Ber
muda consecrated the new chancel of St. James's church,
Sandys, on the island of Somerset. The ride there, a dis
tance of ten miles, was full of interest, the road winding in
and out among fine villas, and giving at every turn exquisite
views of the sea in several places, on both sides of us. The
road was alive with people on their way to this service, on
foot, in carriages of every description, from the stately lan
dau, with its liveried attendants, to the pretty phaeton, the
roomy carryall, and the unpretending " trap," while over the
tranquil sea darted little boats, their snowy sails in charm
ing contrast with the blue water. What a delicious picture
it all made, so full of life and enchanting color !

60 LETTERS FROM BERMUDA.
The church in Sandys, architecturally considered, is not
an imposing edifice (few churches in Bermuda are), but its
surroundings are lovely, — the quiet churchyard where re
pose the dead of many generations, and stretching far, far
away, the shining, rippling sea.
The new chancel, thirty feet by twenty-two, is a great ad
dition and improvement to the venerable church. At the
steps of the outer chancel the Bishop was met by the war
dens and vestry, when the request to consecrate was read
by one of them, after which his lordship and the clergy
walked up the chancel to the altar chanting alternately the
24th Psalm of David, the Bishop, with his clear, full voice,
taking one verse, the clergy another. After a short exhor
tation to the congregation and a prayer of general consecra
tion, the Bishop proceeded to consecrate individually each
article connected with the new chancel, beginning, of course,
with the altar. He then walked down the aisle, preceded
by his Vicar-general (Rev. J. B. L. Lough, whom he has re
cently appointed to that office) carrying the pastoral staff,
to the new font, upon which he invoked an especial bene
diction. Returning to the chancel step, he offered a prayer
for those who at that place should renew in Confirmation
their baptismal vows, and for those who should there be
joined together in the holy estate of matrimony. Next, he
went to the lectern and the pulpit, invoking a special bless
ing upon each. Then the Bishop sat in his chair while the
Vicar-general read the sentence of consecration, which was
signed by his lordship and laid by him upon the altar.
After morning prayer, in which all the clergy present
took part, a sermon appropriate to the occasion was preach
ed by the Bishop, who also administered the Holy Commun
ion, a large number of persons receiving. The church was
filled with an interested and attentive congregation, the
music was excellent, and everything helped to make the day
one long to be remembered.
A bountiful collation was served by a prominent layman

LETTERS FROM BERMUDA. 6 1
of Somerset, to which ample justice was done by a large
number of invited guests from all parts of the islands, in
cluding His Excellency the Governor and his aids, the Lord
Bishop and his clergy.
This day week, if all goes well, I start on my homeward
voyage. May the Divine Pilot conduct me safely to the de
sired haven.
When I leave at the end of this visit, I shall have spent,
the different times I have been here, one year of my life in
Bermuda, where I have made many friendships that will end
only with my life. Nay, why do I say they will " end only
with my life," for will they not continue in that world where
partings are never known, where "good-by" is never said?

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