FASHION THEN AND NOW.FASHION THEN AND NOW ILLUSTRATED BY ANECDOTES, SOCIAL, POLITICAL, MILITARY, DRAMATIC, AND SPORTING. WITH BEMABKS ON DRESS, ELECTIONS, DUELLING, AMATEUR THEATRICALS, RACING, HUNTING, SHOOTING, FISHING, SKATING, GOLFING, CURLING, DEEP SEA FISHING, YACHTING. BY LORD WILLIAM PITT LENNOX, AUTHOB OF " CBLEBBITIEB I HAVB KNOWN," BTC. " Aa the world leads we follow."—Seneca. " Fashion still varying, not to forms confin'd, Shifts as the sands, the sport of every wind."—Propertius. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1878. LAll Rights Ke»erved.~\PBINTED BY TAY10B AND CO., LITTLB QUEEH STBEET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. Page The wild Vicissitudes of Taste—Changes in the Fashion, the Habits, the Manners, the Dress, the Amusements of the Upper Ten Thousand—Adventure at Covent Garden Theatre—White Ties en Rigueur— Almack's, the Ladies Patronesses—The Waltz satirised by Byron—Masquerades—March of Intellect—Modern Amusements—Yauxhall Gardens—Bath, and its Amusements ......... 1 CHAPTER II. Early Hours and Plain Living of our Forefathers— An old Bill of Fare—A Modern Menu—Four-bottle Men—Charles II. and the Lord Mayor of London— Baccanalian Song—Toasts and Sentiments—A Party to Richmond in the City Barge—The Lord and Lady Mayoress—Living in London a.d. 1714 . . .30 CHAPTER III. Expense of Dress in Former Days—Marriage of the Prince of Wales in 1736—Poetical Portrait of a BeauViii CONTENTS. Page of 1757—Eccentricity and Extravagance in Dress— Domestic Servants—A Frenchman's Opinion of them —The " High Life Below Stairs " class . . 43 CHAPTER IV. Gastronomy—" In Solo Vivendi Causa Palato Est"— Dilettanti Club—Unlucky Numbers at Dinner— Modern Improvements—Suppression of Gaming Houses—Barbarous Torments in Bygone Days—Capital Punishments —Severity of the Laws for Libel—Gin Drinking—Travelling in the Early Part of the Present Century—• A Foreigner's Opinion of English Taxation . 70 CHAPTER V. Fetes and Garden Parties—The Oaks—Carlton House —Costume Ball at Buckingham Palace—Petition of the Maids of Honour of Queen Charlotte, Consort to George III., for Compensation in lieu of Money—Improper Characters surreptitiously Knighted—Happy Escape from Knighthood ...... 85 CHAPTER VI. Modern and Bygone Education—Music—Novel Reading—Fashionable Slang—Royal Marriages—A Grand Christening—House of Commons as it is, as it was—Single-speech Hamilton . . . . .103 CHAPTER VII. Electioneering—Rejoicings at Bygone Elections— Chairing the sucessful Candidates—Misunderstanding between Sir Francis Burdett and Mr. Paull—Charles James Fox—Celebration of his Triumph—CarltonCONTENTS. ix Page House—" True Blue and Mrs. Crewe "—Verses on Mrs. Crewe—Curious Trial at Croydon for Ribbons said to be delivered to a Candidate during a General Election—Repartee—Whitbread and an Elector—Curwen's Definition of a Whig.......127 CHAPTER VIII. State of the Country in 1759—A Foreign Invasion Threatened—Meeting of the Court of Common Council on a Proposition of great consequence to the Service of the King and the Nation—Patriotism in 1803— Letters of the Prince of Wales to the Right Honourable Henry Addington, to be laid before the King, urging his Majesty to place him in a more ostensible Situation than Colonel of a Regiment—The Bang's Reply . .143 CHAPTER IX. Corporal Punishment in the Army—General Order— Debates in the Houses of Lords and Commons—Tragic Event at Lisbon—Roman Catholic Soldiers—Dress of the Army—A General Officer in Trouble—Court-martial on an Officer of high rank for striking a Private Soldier—Homage paid to a French Officer—Volunteers —Banquet given to them . . . . . .158 CHAPTER X. Duels—Political Duels—Charles James Fox and Mr. Adam—Earl of Shelburne and William Fullarton, Esq. —Earl of Lauderdale and General Arnold—Burdett and Canning—John George Lambton and Thomas Wentworth Beaumont—Wellington and Winchelsea— Londonderry and Grattan—Earl of Lonsdale and Captain Cuthbert—Sanguinary Duels—Frizel and VOL. I. bX CONTENTS. Page Clark—Honourable Cosmo Gordon and Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas—Fatal and Extraordinary Duel in France—Political Libel......184 CHAPTER XI. Extraordinary Duel between a Lieutenant of the Navy and Captain in the Army—Fatal Affairs—Baron Hompesch and Mr. Richardson—Campbell and Boyd— Two French Prisoners—A Legal Case—Heavy Fine— Gourlay and Westall—Boyish Affairs of Honour—Extraordinary Verdicts—Singular Duel in France— Melancholy Affairs in the United States—Aaron Burr and General Hamilton—Doctors Smith and Jefferies— Cilley and Graves—Anderson and Jones—Strange American Verdict . . . . . . . 206 CHAPTER XII. Origin of Dramatic Art—Susarion, Dolon, Thespis, Phrynichus, ^Eschylus—A Demoniac Scene-—Sophocles, Euripides—Comedy—Epicharmus and other distinguished Writers who flourished in the Reign of Pericles—Personal Scurrility—Aristophanes—Menander— Terence—A Grecian Theatre—Overflowing Houses— The Drama in Rome—Livius Andronicus—The English Stage—Mummers and Mysteries—Henry VIII.— Elizabeth—Gorbodue—Jocasta—The Supposes—London Theatres in the Days of Shakespeare, James I Charles I., Charles II., Congreve—A Strike among the Players—Salaries of Actors in 1733—Prynne's Denunciation of the Drama—Lines from e The Passionate Madam/ by Beaumont and Fletcher .... 223 CHAPTER XIII. Introduction of Females on the Stage—Betterton— Servants in the Galleries—Disturbances—MasquesCONTENTS. xi Page given by the Royal Family in the Days of Davenant— Blemishes of Walpole's Administration—Lord Chamberlain appointed Licenser—The Play House Bill passed into a Law—Theatricals in oar Days—Cant and Hypocrisy—The Dramas of Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Wycherly, Congreve, Vanbrugh, Cibber, un-suited to the present time—Diderot's Censure—Old Plays still Popular on our Boards—Committee of the House of Commons in 1832, to Inquire into the State of the Laws affecting the Interest and Exhibition of the Drama—Their Report . . . . . .241 CHAPTER XIV. Theatricals—Dramatic Excellence in Writing—Addison's ' Cato'—Byron's Plays ill-adapted for the Stage —Marino Faliero—Shakespeare's Plays on the French Boards—Tom Jones dramatised under the title of ' Tom Jones a Londres'—The Half-pay Officer—Peg Fryer—Bensley as Richard III.—His c Jasey'—Mrs. Siddons on Applause—The Bishop of London compelling the Curtain to drop at twelve o'clock on Saturday nights, and prohibiting Sunday Routs and Concerts in the Metropolis, a.d. 1806—Foreign Theatrical Puff—Pizarro versified . . . . . .251 CHAPTER XV. Theatrical Anecdotes—Loss of Memory, Madlle. Fanior—Versailles—M. Rosembeau and the Manager, L'aveugle—King Lear and the Blind Actor—Lapsus Linguae of Performers—Cabals in Foreign Theatres— Hector Malet on the English Stage—Anecdote of De la Fontaine—Claqueurs—Disturbances and Accidents . 270Xii CONTENTS. Pftge CHAPTER XYI. My Recollection of the Drama from the year 1810 —The old Green Curtain, and Playbills—Modern Programmes—Giving out Plays—Liston's Buffooneries— House of Commons in 1781 adjourning to attend Vestris* Benefit—Desecration of Drury Lane, 1831— Wild Beasts—Stage Properties—Fete on board the Royal Yacht, September, 1804—Elliston and Miss Decamp—Theatrical Representation at the Tuileries before their Majesties Louis Philippe and Queen Amelia.........284 CHAPTER XVII. Theatrical Lawsuits—Macklin—Right of an Audience to hiss—C. Kemble v. W. Farren—Ellis ton's Assault on the Author of ' Paul Pry'—A Poole in a Passion—A Puddle in a Storm—Qui Tam Action— Dunn v. Davidge ....... 300 CHAPTER XVIII. The 0. P. Riot at Covent Garden Theatre—Counsellor Clifford—Her Majesty's Theatre—The Omnibus-Box Riot—Ingoldsby Legends . . . . . .315FASHION THEN AND NOW. CHAPTEB I. THE "WILD "VICISSITUDES OF TASTE—CHANGES IN THE FASHION, THE HABITS, THE MANNEBS, THE DBES8, THE AMUSEMENTS OF THE UPPER TEN THOUSAND—ADVENTUBE AT COVENT-GABDEN THEATBE—WHITE TIES EN BIGEUll—ALMACK's, THE LADIES PATBONESSES—THE "WALTZ SATIBISED BY BY BON— MASQUEKADES—MABCH OF INTELLECT—MODEBN AMUSEMENTS— VAUXHALL GABDENS—BATH, AND ITS AMUSEMENTS. " Look nature through, 'tis revolution all; All change, no death." Young. " Weep not that the world changes—did it keep A stable, changeless course, 'twere cause to weep." Bbtant. " Among the wild vicissitudes of taste," few things have undergone greater changes than fashion, the habits, the manners, the dress, the amusements, of the upper ten thousand are as different at the present time from what they were "when George the Third VOL. I. 12 FASHION THEN AND NOW. A was King," as a modern suit of tweed and a wideawake hat is from that of velvet, powdered wig, pigtail, and cocked hat, which graced our ancestors. The London season terminated on the 5th of June, the day after George the Third's birthday, when the fashionable world migrated to Brighton, "Worthing, Bognor, Scarborough, Tunbridge Wells, Buxton, Matlock, or Harrogate, for the Continent was olosed against travellers. Previous to this, Cowper wrote— " Your prudent grandmamas, ye modern belles, Content with Bristol, Bath, and Tunbridge Wells, When health required it, would consent to roam, Else more attach'd to pleasure found at home ; But now alike, gay widow, virgin, wife, Ingenious to diversify dull life, In coaches, chaises, caravans, and hoys, Fly to the coast for daily, nightly joys, And all impatient of dry land, agree With one consent to rush into the sea." Change coaches, chaises, caravans, and hoys for railroads and steamboats, and the same remark is as applicable in our day as it was in that of the author of £ The Task.' It commenced, as it now does, when the balmy breath of spring calls the dormant vegetation into life, when the flowers are bursting from their buds, when the blossoms hang on every tree, when the birds carol " their wood notes wild" melodiously, and the sun shines brightly over the fresh foliage. It is at this delightful period of the year that everybody comes to London, in order to take the dust inTHE LONDON SEASON. 3 the Parks, or pace the burning pavement in the streets. Such is the order of things, and shady groves and cooling grots are abandoned for drawing-rooms at ninety-six, aD