HAND-BOOK FOB TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT.NOTICE This Edition of the Hand-book has been subjected to a most careful and thorough revision; many new routes, including the Railroads of Holland, Germany, and Belgium, are added, and several have been rewritten. Thfe Editor trusts that the imperfections and errors of this book will be found to have been considerably diminished. His own personal rectification of mis- takes and omissions has been most materially aided by the communications of numerous and obliging correspondents, many of them personally unknown to him, to whom he takes this opportunity of returning his acknowledgments. He begs, at the same time, to repeat his request that travellers who may in the use of the Hand-book detect any faults or omissions which they can correct from personal knowledge, will have the kindness to mark them down on the spot, with the date when they are made, and communicate to him a notice of the same, favouring him at the same time with their names—addressed to the care of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. They may be reminded that by such com- munications they are not merely furnishing the means of improving the Hand- book, but are contributing to the benefit, information, and comfort of future travellers. %* No attention can be paid to letters from innkeepers in praise of their own bouses; and'the postage of them is so onerous that they cannot be received. The Editor of the Hand-books for Travellers takes this opportunity of re- turning his thanks to the numerous obliging correspondents who have favoured him by communicating notices of errors and omissions in this and other Guide- books, of which he has gladly availed himself to improve the present Edition. He has also derived considerable benefit from a German translation of the Hand-books executed by Mr. Baedeker, an intelligent bookseller of Coblenz, who has performed the part not merely of translator but of a careful Editor, and having visited a large part of Germany, has added greatly to the accuracy and value of the work by his own personal observations, the greater part of which have been incorporated in this Edition. Caution to Travellers. — By a recent Act of Parliament the introduction into England of foreign pirated Editions of the works of British authors, in which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. Travellers will therefore bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at -the English Custom-house. Caution to Innkeepers and others. — The Editor of the Hand-books has learned from various quarters that a person or persons have of late been •extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Con- tinent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices of them and their establishments in the Hand-books for Travellers. The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recom- mendations in the Hand-books are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises, may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their object. 1843. London : — Printed by Spottiswoodes and Shaw, New-street- Square.A HAND-BOOK for TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT: BEING A GUIDE THROUGH HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, NORTHERN GERMANY, tf)s from Haltaitt ta ^toitjerlanU. CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES, THEIR MUSEUMS, PICTURE GALLERIES, &c. THE RAILWAYS AND GREAT HIGH ROADS; THE MOST INTERESTING AND PICTURESQUE DISTRICTS; AND THE MOST FREQUENTED BATHS AND ‘ WATERING PLACES; ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS, AND HINTS FOR TOURS. WITH AN INDEX MAP, AND PLANS OF THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS. SIXTH EDITION, CORRECTED AND AUGMENTED. LONDON: JOHN MI/RRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET: A. & W. GALIGNANI & Co.; STASSIN AND XAVIER, PARIS: LONGMAN, LEIPZIG. 1849.THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF THE HAND-BOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS ABE PUBLISHED-------------------- Jn Germany, Holland, and Belgium, at AIX-LA- 1 BY CHAPELLE/ I. D. MAYER; L. KOH- NEN. AMSTERDAM . . J. MULLER. ANTWERP . . MAX. KORN1CKER. BADEN-BADEN . D. R. MARX. BERLIN . . A. DUNCKER. BRUSSELS . . C. MUQUARDT; KIESS- - LING & CO.; A. DECQ; W. TODD. CARLSRUHE . . CREUZBAUER & CO. and A. BIELEFELD. COBLENTZ . . BAEDEKER. COLOGNE . . L. KOHNEN; A. BAEDE- KER. DRESDEN . . ARNOLD. FRANKFURT . . C. JUGEL. GRATZ . . DAMIAN Sc SORGE. HAMBURG . . PERTHES, BESSER, Sc MAUKE. HEIDELBERG BY LEIPZIG . . MANNHEIM . . MAYENCE . . MUNICH . . NURNBERG . . PESTH . . PRAGUE . . ROTTERDAM . . STUTTGART . . VIENNA . . J. C. B. MOHR. T. O. WEIGEL. ARTARIA& FONTAINE LITERARISCH-ARTIST- ISCHE ANSTALT Sc I. PALM. SCHRAG. HARTLEBEN & G. HEC. KENAST. CALVE. A. BAEDEKER; MRS. KRAP. P.HEFF. BRAUMULLER Sc SEI- DEL ; C. GEROLD, P. ROHRMAN, SCHAUM- BURG A CO. ANCONA BOLOGNA BERGAMO BRESCIA FLORENCE GENOA LEGHORN LUCCA MALTA MANTUA MILAN MODENA In Italy, at BY . . M. RUSCONI, FREkES. NICE . . JOS. MOLINI. . . ANTOINE BEUF. . . ROLANDI. . . F. BARON. ' . . MURE. , . NEGRETTI, FRfeRES. . F. ARTARIA & SON ; MO- LINARI; P. & J. VAL- LARDI; TENDLER A SCHAEFER. . VINCENZI A ROSSI.’ NAPLES PALERMO PARMA PISA PERUGIA ROME SIENNA TURIN VENICE BY THE SOCIE'TE' TYPO- GRAPHIQUE ; VIS- CONTI. . . CARLO BATELLI A CO. . . CHARLES BEUF. . . J. ZANGHIERI. . . NISTRI, FR^RES; JOS VANNUCCHI. . . VINCENZ. BARTELLI. . . VENANZIO MONAL- DINI; M. MERLE. . . ONORATO TORRI. . i GIANNINI A FIORE; BOCCA; MARIETTI. . . HERMAN F. MUNSTER. In France, at A MIENS BY CARON. AVRANCHES. . LANSARD DESJARDINS. BAYONNE . . JAYMEBON.' BORDEAUX . . CHAMAS; LAWALLE. BOULOGNE . . WATEL ; MERRIDEW. BREST . . HEBERT. CAEN . . AVONDE; MANCEL. CALAIS . . LEROY. DIEPPE . . MARAIS. DINANT . . COSTE. DUNKERQUE . LEYSCHOCHART. GRENOBLE . . VELLOT ET COMP. HAVRE . . COCHARD. LILLE . . VANACKERE. LYONS ‘ . . BOHA1RE. MARSEILLES. . TERRIS. MAS VERT . . CHAIX. METZ BY WARION. MONTPELLIER . LEVALLE. NANCY . . GONET. NANTES . . GUE'RAUD. ORLEANS . . GATINEAU; RESTY. PARIS . . GALIGNANI; STASSIN ET XAVIER. PAU- . . MARKHAM. PERP1GNAN . . JULIA FRERES. REIMS . . BRISSART BINET. ROUEN . LEBRUMENT. ST. MALO . . HUE. STRASBOURG . . LEVRAULT; LAGIER. TOULON . . MONGE ET VILLAMUS .TOULOUSE . . GALLON; H. LEBON. TOURS . . AIGRE; BONTE. TROYES . . LALOY. In Switzerland, at AARAU . BY SAUERLAENDER. BASLE . . . FR. WALZ. BERN . . . HUBER & CO. CONSTANCE . . GLUCKER. FREIBURG . . HERDER. ST. GALLEN . . HUBER. GENEVA . . . ICESSMANN; MONROE. USANNE > . . GERS. LUCERNE . BY MEYER. MUHLHAUSEN . . ENGELMANN. ROTWEIL . . HERDER. SCHAFFHAUSEN . HURTER. SOLEURE . . REUTER. THUR .... GRUBENMANN WINTERTHUR. . STEINER. ZURICH . . . H. FUSSLI Sc CO.PREFACE. The winter of this volume having experienced, as every Englishman visiting the Continent must have done, the want of any tolerable English Guide Book for Europe north of the Alps, was induced, partly for his own amusement, partly to assist his friends going abroad, to make copious notes of all that he thought worth observ- ation, and of the best modes of travelling and seeing things to advan- tage. In the course of repeated journeys and of occasional residence in various part of the Continent, he not only traversed beaten routes, but visited many spots to which his countrymen rarely penetrate. Thus his materials have largely accumulated ; and in the hope that they may prove of as much service to the public generally, as he is assured they already have to private friends, he is now induced to put them forth in a printed form. The Guide Books hitherto published are for the most part either general descriptions compiled by persons not acquainted with the spots, and therefore imperfect and erroneous, or are local histories, written by residents who do not sufficiently discriminate between what is peculiar to the place, and what is not worth seeing, or may be seen equally well or to greater advantage somewhere else. The latter overwhelm their readers with minute details of its history ‘ ‘ from the most ancient times,” and with genealogies of its princes, &c. : the former confine themselves to a mere catalogue of buildings, institu- tions, and the like; after reading which, the stranger is as much as ever in the dark as to what really are the curiosities of the place. They are often mere reprints of works published many years ago, by no means corrected, or brought down to the present time; and whether accurate or not, originally, are become from the mere changes which each year produces, faulty and antiquated. The writer of the Hand-Book has endeavoured to confine himself to matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to be seen at each place, and is calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller, without bewildering his readers with an account of all that may be seen. He has avoided chronological details; and, instead of abridging the re- cords of a town from beginning to end, he has selected such local anecdotes as are connected with remarkable events which have hap- pened there, or with distinguished men who have lived there. He has adopted as simple and condensed a style as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exaggerated superlatives; preferring to avail himself of the descriptions of others, where they appeared good and correct, to obtruding extracts from his own journals. Whenever an author of celebrity, such as Scott, Byron, Rogers, or Southey, has described a place, he has made a point of extracting the passage, knowing how much the perusal of it on the spot, where the works themselves are not to be procured, will enhance the interest of seeing the objects described.PREFACE. vi The subject of this volume, and the purpose for which it is written, admit of little novelty, most of the information it contains being ne- cessarily derived from books, modified by actual observation. But many of the works consulted are in foreign languages, and not easily accessible to English readers. To this have been added the results of the writer’s personal experience and inquiries made on the spot; and he has taken much pains to acquire the most recent information from the best authorities, and to bring it down to the present time. * Many of the routes also have never before been laid down in any Guide Book published in this country, and the whole is so arranged as to be fitted for the use of the English fraveller. This volume is complete in itself as far as it goes, and is intended to preclude the necessity of resorting to any other Guide Book in the countries which it professes to describe. Should the book -be found to possess any superiority over others of its class, it is because it is based upon a personal knowledge of the countries described ; since those routes which have not been travelled over by the author himself have, with very few exceptions, been re- vised by friends to whom they are actually known. Many of the descriptions of routes have already served to guide travellers abroad, and have thus been verified on the spot. That such a work can be faultless is impossible, and the author has therefore to throw himself on the indulgence of his readers, to excuse the inaccuracies (numerous, no doubt) which may occur in the course of it, in spite of the care taken to avoid them; and he most particularly requests all who make use of it to favour him by transmitting, through his publisher, a notice of any mistakes or omissions which they may discover. Such communications will be carefully attended to in the event of a new edition being required. The blunders of the author of a “ Tour on the Continent,” published for the edification of the public at home, may escape detection ; but a book of this kind, every word of which is liable to be weighed and verified on the spot, is subjected to a much more severe test and criticism. "What Dr. Johnson said of Dictionaries is also applicable to Guide Books: — “ They are like watches ; the worst is better than none — the best cannot be expected to go quite true.” The writer begs to express his acknowledgments to numerous friends, whose names he is not at liberty to mention, who have obligingly favoured him vjjth notes and corrections during the print- ing of the book. August, 1836.CONTENTS, INTRODUCTION. Information which may be of use before leaving England Skeleton Tours - - Tables of Foreign Coins reduced to the English Value SECT. I_______HOLLAND. Introductory Information - Routes - - _ . SECT. II. —BELGIUM. Introductory Information Routes - .... SECT. III. — GERMANY. General Information j - - SECT. IV. —PRUSSIA. —NORTHERN GERMANY_ THE RHINE. Introductory Information - - - - - - 234 Routes - - - - - - - - 239 SECT. V__PRUSSIA, continued.— MEC,KLENBURG.— HANOVER. — BRUNSWICK. —HESSE CASSEL. — THE HANSE TOWNS. Routes - - - - - - - 327 SECT. VI. — PRUSSIA, continued. Routes --------- 407 SECT. VII. —SAXONY. Introductory Information ------ 434 Routes --------- 4S5 SECT. VIII.—NASSAU.— FRANKFURT.—HESSE DARMSTADT. — RHENISH BAVARIA. — BADEN,—and THE RHINE from Mayence to Stkasburg. Preliminary Information ------- 485 Routes --------- 487 Index - -- -- -- - 565 Page - ix - xxxii - xxix 1 25 - 94 - 107 - 203ABBREVIATIONS, &c. USED IN THE HAND-BOOK. The points of the Compass are marked simply by the letters N. S. E. W. (rt.) right, (L) left. The right bank of a river is that which lies on the right hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the quarter from which the current descends. m. = mile; R. or Rte. = Route; St. or Stat. = Railway Station. When miles are spoken of without any descriptive epithet, English statute miles are to be understood. The names of Inns precede the description of every place, (often in a parenthesis,) because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. The best Inns, as far as they can be determined, are placed first. Instead of designating a town by the vague words “large” or “small,” the amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost invariably stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. In order to avoid repetition, the Routes through the larger states of Europe are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information ; and, to facilitate reference to it, each division or paragraph is separately numbered. Every Route has a number, corresponding with the figures attached to the Route on the Map, which thus serves as an index to the Book ; at the same time that it presents a tolerably exact view of the great high roads of Europe, and of the course of public conveyances. The Map is to be placed at the end of the book. N. B. — The information given in the following pages respecting steamers, railroads, exhibitions, &c., applies to the usual summer travelling season. There are usually fewer trains and steamers, and shorter times of admission, during the end of the autumn, the winter, and early spring. These changes are easily ascertained on the spot: it is only necessary to caution the traveller respecting them. rINTRODUCTION, CONTAINING INFORMATION WHICH MAT BE OF USE BEFORE LEAVING ENGLAND. a. Maxims and Hints for Travelling. — b. Language. *— c. Money : Circular- Notes. — d. Passports. — e. Couriers. — f. Carriage. — g. Some Requisites for Travelling. — h. Steam Boats from England. — i. Landing on the Con- tinent:— Custom Houses and Commissionaire. — k.British Custom Houser — Transmission of Goods from the Continent to England.—1. Inns and Inn- keepers.— m. English Church on the Continent. —n. A few Skeleton Tours. — o. Tables of the relative Value of the Money of Germany compared with that of England and France. a. MAXIMS AND HINTS FOR TRAVELLING. “ Travel in the younger sort is a part of education ; in the elder, a part of experience. He that travelleth into a country, before he hath some entrance into the language, goeth to school, and not to travel. That young men travel under some tutor, or grave servant, I allow well; so that he be such a one that hath the language, and hath been in the country before; whereby he may be able to tell them what things are worthy to be seen in the country where they go, what ac- quaintances they are to seek, what exercise or discipline the place yieldeth ; for else young men shall go hooded, and look abroad little. The things to be seen and observed are the courts of princes, especially when they give audience to ambassadors ; the courts of justice while they sit and hear causes; and so of consistories ecclesiastic; the churches and monasteries, with the monuments which are therein extant; the walls and fortifications of cities and towns: and so the havens and harbours, antiquities and ruins, libraries, colleges, dispu- tations, and lectures, where any are; shipping and navies ; houses and gardens of state and pleasure near great cities ; armories, arsenals, magazines, exchanges, burses, warehouses, exercises of horseman- ship, fencing, training of soldiers, and the like ; comedies, such where- unto the better sort of persons do resort; treasuries of jewels and robes; cabinets and rarities ; and, to conclude, whatsoever is memor- able in the places where they go; after all which the tutors or ser- vants ought to make diligent inquiry. As for triumphs, masks, feasts, weddings, funerals, capital executions, and such shows, men need not to be put in mind of them.; yet are they not to be neglected. If you will have a young man to put his travel into a little room, and in a short time to gather much, this you must do: first, as was said, he mustX a. MAXIMS AND HINTS have some entrance into the language before he goeth; then he must have such a servant or tutor as knoweth the country, as was likewise said: let him carry with him also some card or book describing the country where he travelleth, which will be a good key to his inquiry ; let him keep also a diary ; let him not stay long in one city or town, more or less as the place deserveth, but not long; nay, when he stayeth in one city or town, let him change his lodging from one end and part of the town to another, which is a great adamant of acquaint- ance ; let him sequester himself from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such places where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth; let him, upon his removes from one place to another, procure recommendation to some person of quality resid- ing in the place whither he removeth, that he may use his favour in those things he desireth to see or know — thus he may abridge his travel with much profit. As for the acquaintance which is to be sought in travel, that which is most of all profitable is acquaintance with the secretaries and employed men of ambassadors; for so in travelling in one country he shall suck the experience of many: let him also see and visit eminent persons in all kinds which are of great name abroad, that he may be able to tell how the life agreeth with the fame: for quarrels they are with care and discretion to be avoided ; they are commonly for mistresses, healths, place, and words ; and let a man beware how he keepeth company with choleric and quarrelsome persons ; for they will engage him into their own quarrels. When a traveller returneth home, let him not leave the countries where he hath travelled altogether behind him ; but maintain a correspondence by letters with those of his acquaintance which are of most worth: and let his travel appear rather in his discourse than in his apparel or gesture ; and in his discourse let him be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell stories : and let it appear that he doth not change his country manners for those of foreign parts ; but only prick in some flowers of that he hath learned abroad into the customs of his own country.” — Loud Bacon. Essays. XIX. “ Ours is a nation of travellers ; and no wonder, when the elements, air, water, fire, attend at our bidding, to transport us from shore to shore; when the ship rushes into the deep, her track the foam as of some mighty torrent; and, in three hours or less, we stand gazing and gazed at among a foreign people. None want an excuse. If rich, they go to enjoy ; if poor, to retrench ; if sick, to recover; if stu- dious, to learn ; if learned, to relax from their studies. But what- ever they may say, whatever they may believe, they go for the most part on the same errand; nor will those who reflect think that errand an idle one. “Almost all men are over-anxious. No sooner do they enter the world, than they lose that taste for natural and simple pleasures, so remarkable in early life. Every hour do they ask themselves what progress they have made in the pursuit of wealth or honour; and on they go as their fathers went before them, till, Weary and sick at heart, they look back with a sigh of regret to the golden time of their childhood.FOR TRAVELLING. .XL “ Now travel, and foreign travel more particularly, restores to us in a great degree what we have lost. When the anchor is heaved, we double down the leaf, and for a while at least all effort is over. The old cares are left clustering round the old objects; and at every step, as we proceed, the slightest circumstance amuses and inter- ests. All is new and strange. We surrender ourselves, and feel once again as children’ Like them, we enjoy eagerly; like them, when we fret, we fret only for the moment: and here the resem- blance is very remarkable; for if a journey has its pains as well as its pleasures (and there is nothing unmixea in the world), the pains are no sooner over than they are forgotten, while the pleasures live long in the memory. “ Nor is it surely without another advantage. If life be short, not so to many of us are its days and its hours. When the blood slum- bers in the veins, how often do we wish that the earth would turn faster on its axis, that the sun would rise and set before it does; and, to escape from the weight of time, how many follies, how many crimes are committed! Men rush on danger, and even on death. Intrigue, play, foreign and domestic broil, such are their resources; and, when these things fail, they destroy themselves. “ Now, in travelling we multiply events, and innocently. We set out, as it were, on our adventures; and many are those that occur to us, morning, noon, and night. The day we come to a place which we have long heard and read of,—and in Italy we do so continually, —it is an era in our lives ; and from that moment the very name calls up a picture. How delightfully, too, does the knowledge flow in upon us, and how fast! Would he who sat in a corner of his library, poring •over his books and maps, learn more or so much in the time, as he who, with his eyes and his heart open, is receiving impressions all day long from the things themselves ? How accurately do they arrange themselves in our memory, — towns, rivers, mountains; and in what living colours do we recal the dresses, manners, and customs of the people! Our sight is the noblest of all our senses, — ‘It fills the mind with most ideas, converses with its objects at the greatest dis- tance, and continues longest in action without being tired.’ Our sight is on the alert when we travel; and its exercise is then so delightful, that we forget the profit in the pleasure. “ Like a river, that gathers, that refines as it runs, like a spring, that takes its course through some rich vein of mineral, we improve, and imperceptibly — nor in the head only, but in the heart. Our prejudices leave us one by one. Seas and mountains are no longer our boundaries; we learn to love, and esteem, and admire beyond them. Our benevolence extends itself with our knowledge. And must we not return better citizens than we went ? For the more we become acquainted with the institutions of other countries, the more highly must we value our own.” — Samuel Rogers. “ Even of those who wish to profit by travelling, there are many who do not sufficiently consider that, to see and hear with under- standing, they should come provided with some other stores besides a purse and a passport; and that one who is unacquainted with the a 6xii a. MAXIMS AND HINTS language, history, and geography of the country through which he is passing, is as incapable of gaining information from intercourse with foreigners as if he were deaf or dumb. ‘ Necesse est facere sumptum qui quaerit lucrum or, as Johnson has well said, 1 A man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring home knowledge.’ ” J. W. — Quarterly Review. “ The enjoyment of travelling, like other pleasures, must be pur- chased at some little expense; and he whose good humour can be ruffled by every petty inconvenience he may chance to encounter, had unquestionably better remain at home.” — Captain Hamilton. u Travelling may be said to be a state of great pleasure mixed with great annoyance ; but by management the former may be much increased, and the latter proportionately diminished. “ Wherever you are, it is good to fall into the customs and habits of the place; for though sometimes they may be a little inconvenient, it is generally much more so to run counter to them. Those who have their own w ay never succeed, but at a much greater cost than success is wrorth.”—Walker's Original. “ One of the greatest annoyances in travelling is continual exposure to imposition; but this may, by good management, be frequently avoided, either altogether or in part, as by bad management it may be greatly increased. “ My observation tells me there is no preventive against these dif- ferent kinds of imposition so sure as a certain quiet composed bearing, indicative at once of self-respect, and of consideration for others. I have made many experiments in the matter, under various circum- stances, both in this country and abroad, and the result seems to me to be, that by such behaviour you insure greater attention at a lower cost than by any other course; and having adopted such a course, I think that on the Continent you may still be exposed, when actually travelling, to imposition to the extent of about ten per cent, upon your expenditure, to which, for comfort’s sake, and to avoid the chance of being wrong, which frequently happens in small matters, it is wise to submit, without keeping yourself in a constant fever and state of distraction from the objects only worthy of attention.” — Walker's Original. The reflections of Tristram Shandy* on this head are not to be surpassed : — “ Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder- box, w hich was, morever, filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five pauls for two hard eggs, once at Radicofani, and a second time at Capua,—I do not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man keep his temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you believe. There must be ups and downs, or * Quoted in Brocke Jon’s Road Book.FOE TRAVELLING. xiii how the deuce should we get into valleys, where nature spreads so many tables of entertainment ? It is nonsense to suppose they will lend you their voitures to be shaken to pieces for nothing ; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread ? We really expect too much; and for the livre or two above par for your supper and bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny; Who would em- broil their philosophy for it ? For Heaven’s sake and your own, pay it — pay it with both hands open ! ’’ — Sterne. “ Not the least important of the requisites for a traveller, is the temper in which he should undertake to perform his journey. It is jiot sufficient for a pleasant excursion on the Continent that he has money enough to meet his expenses. The comfort with which an Englishman — who understands the word better than any other — is likely to enjoy an excursion in lands where the language, manners, and customs are so different from his own, will greatly depend upon his carrying with him a ready stock of good temper and forbearance, which have more certain currency than gold in the purchase of civilities and efforts to please. A man will see more, enjoy more, and learn more, by carrying with him his head and heart in good travelling trim, than can be obtained by having his pockets full of letters of credit, without this necessary state of mind and feelings. It is a fact deeply to be regretted, that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen think, if they leave home with money, they can command anything ; that it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts to oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. The presumption of our countrymen is proverbial on the Continent; fortunately, the exceptions are numerous, and we are spoken of as an unaccountable people, when some men of unquestionable character and fortune display examples of suavity and true gentility which cannot be surpassed on earth : the foreigner is thus puzzled to know how to estimate our national character. It is a vulgar prejudice, that all foreigners cheat the English, and that caution is necessary to guard against the constant attempts to overreach them. That some such characters are met with, canuot be denied ; but those whose rapacity is thus made to characterise a class have been often created by the meanness and prejudices and thoughtless extravagance of the travellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with, that you must be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges, and any deviation from them is soon detected; but it too often happens that things are demanded by the traveller which are very expensive, or difficult to procure: the charge for these is protested against as extravagant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of the grumbler. Firmness in not paying more than what is customary, unless such extraordinary trouble has been given, will alw-ays suc- ceed ; and good humour will lower a bill more readily than violence.” — Brockedon. “ It may not be useless to inquire why, with good hearts and gene:xiv a. MAXIMS AND HINTS rally ample means, the English should be'considered neither generous nor always just; and seldom, we are afraid, agreeable. “ That a permanent residence on the Continent is injurious to the English character (in every sense of the word), there cannot be a question. But there is another description of our countrymen, the Summer Tourist — many of whom, without any intention of doing wrong, contribute in no inconsiderable degree to bring us into contempt. “ It is amongst the great and often-noticed faults of the English- man in a foreign land (and particularly of the class we allude to), that he seems to think every man’s hand is against him, and that he assimilates himself with difficulty to the habits of the people amongst whom he resides. “ His self-created troubles commence on landing, and follow him like a spectre on the road. If the postilions wish to change employers, as is customary when they meet a carriage coming in the direction of the station they have left, the Englishman generally objects, in the belief that something sinister is intended ; and we have heard the sharp ‘ No, no, no /’ from within, confirmed by the travelling-servant from without, in an oracular ‘ Milord ne change jamais ; ’ when it has been obvious that he must have been a gainer by the proposed arrange- ment. “ Arrived at his resting-place, he either finds or makes fresh grievances. In a German hotel there are generally beds in the best room ; but this is so offensive to the notions of an Englishman, when travelling with his family, that he immediately demands, rather than asks for, a sitting-room, which the landlord has not to give — and remains in an ill-humour during the remainder of the evening, under the impression that it has been reserved for some more honoured guest. This often leads him to quarrel with his dinner, to dispute his bill, and to proceed on his journey with the conviction that he is a much injured, rather than a most unreasonable, person. “ A great deal of this ill-humour is increased by his being unable to explain himself in the language of the country, and by his finding the German menials unusually slow at rightly comprehending any other, particularly those specimens of the ‘ unknown tongue,’ of which our countrymen so frequently make use upon the Continent. Indeed, It is surprising how some' of them are able to get on at all. Not only what Horne Tooke called the ‘ wings of speech,’ but one half of its body is often cut off; and in place of nouns and verbs, the medium of communication is reduced to mere*nouns. “ On his arrival at his destination, he finds that the handsome ex- terior of his hotel is a deception, the rooms it incloses being compara- tively small, hot, or inconvenient, and, without a single exception, bed-rooms or salies publiques. The tahle-dhote is a style of dinner opposed to all his home-born notions of comfort or enjoyment. As the meats are carved by the attendants, he is teased by being offered dishes for which he has no inclination, and sees those he desires to taste vanish from before him — never to return. The wines of the country he deems no better than vinegar ;—the carte presents a list of names that recal no accustomed flavour; and as their prices are as unintelligible as their names, he is puzzled what better beverage to select.FOR TRAVELLING. XV # *-**#* * * “ It is thus, without any intention of doing wrong, and merely from a disregard to the feelings and opinions of others, that many of our countrymen who go abroad produce so unfavourable and false an impression of the national character. If we would follow the sensible advice of Mr. Brockedon, by leaving home with a determination to be pleased — if we would submit cheerfully to those petty overcharges which in a summer excursion in England we should scarcely notice — if we would fall easily into the customs of those around us, and not consider that every stranger who approaches us has a sinister inten- tion— if we would believe that habits maybe endurable though dif- ferent from our own, and that the laws of a country are formed rather for its own regulation than for our annoyance, we should more truly enjoy the tours upon which so many thousands are annually spent, and mdke the inhabitants of the Continent more disposed to believe that an Englishman is not a particularly disagreeable person. “ It may seem easy to give this advice, and to say, with Master Faithful, ‘ Take it coolly !’ to the traveller who, after a long day’s journey under a powerful sun, has to encounter the vexations of a late arrival at a crowded hotel, and to perplex his already-troubled brain in vain attempts at making himself intelligible, or in resisting what he deems an unreasonable demand; but till we can bear these things with greater equanimity than hitherto, and avoid becoming mean because we are apprehensive of being cheated, we must be con- tent to acknowledge, that there is some (though not a very flattering) resemblance in the portraits for which we have sat.” —■ W. M. T. “ It is particularly desirable to make the necessary arrangements with respect to luggage, passports, &c. a little beforehand, and not to be in a feverish heat and bustle at the last moment, with the chance of forgetting something of importance. Setting out at one’s ease is a good omen for the rest of the journey. With respect to luggage, 1 recommend the greatest compactness possible, as being attended with constant and many advantages; and, in general, I think people are rather over-provident, in taking more than they want. Avoid being intrusted with sealed letters, or carrying any thing contraband, for yourself or others. The necessity for concealment causes a perpetual anxiety, and has a tendency to destroy that open- ness of manner which is often very serviceable in getting on. Avoid also commissions.” — Walker's Original. Jamque ascendebat collern, qui plurimus urbi Imminet, adversasque aspectat desuper arces.—Virg. The quickest mode of acquiring a good idea of any place, is to take the earliest opportunity of ascending some tower or eminence, from which there is a commanding view, with some person who can point out the most remarkable objects. If this is followed up by wandering about without a guide, and trusting solely to your own observation, you will be as well acquainted with the localities in a few hours, as the generality of travellers would be in a week, or perhaps better, becausexvi b. LANGUAGE.— C. MONEY. CIRCULAR NOTES. your impressions will be stronger. I do not mean by this to supersede the employment of guides in sight-seeing, for they are very useful in saving time. b. LANGUAGE. The Emperor Charles V. used to say, that in proportion to the number of languages a man knew, he was so many more times a man. No one should think of travelling before he has made some acquaint- ance with the language of the country he is about to visit. This should be the first, as it is the best, preparation for a journey. It will prove as good as a doubly-filled purse to the traveller — as two pair of eyes, and one pair of ears — for, without it, the one pair he possesses is likely to be of little use. The only other advice which will he here offered to the traveller is, that he should make up his mind beforehand what line of Route he proposes to follow, and gain some acquaintance with the country before setting out, by perusing the best works descriptive of it; that he should lay in such a stock of good temper and patience as is not likely soon to be exhausted, whatever mishaps may befal him ; and that he should divest himself, as soon as possible, of his prejudices, and especially of the idea of the amazing superiority of England above all other countries, in all respects. C. MONET.---CIRCULAR NOTES. The safest, most economical, and most convenient mode of carrying money abroad to meet the expenses of a journey, is in the shape of circular notes, which may be obtained from Messrs. Herries, Farquhar, and Co.; Coutts and Co.; Sir Claude Scott, Bt., and Co., Cavendish Square; Messrs. Twining, in the Strand, near Temple Bar, and the other chief bankers in London: to these may be added the Union Bank. These notes possess this great advantage over a common letter of credit, that the bearer may receive his monqy at many different places, instead of one fixed spot alone. The traveller having de- termined how much money he will require for his journey*, pays in that sum to the banker, and receives in exchange, without any charge except the stamp-duty, notes to the same amount, each of the value of 20/. or upwards, together with a general letter of order, ad- dressed by the house to its. foreign agents, which, while it serves to identify the bearer, also gives him a claim to their good offices, in case he may need them. The letter is addressed to nearly 200 agents and correspondents in different parts of Europe, so that wherever the traveller may be, he cannot be very far removed from his supplies. “ The value of the notes is reduced into foreign money, at the current usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place * It is difficult, if not impossible, to fix with any approach to exactness the average rate ot expenses of a traveller abroad, as it depends so much on his own habits, and varies in dif- ferent countries ; but, unless the expenditure be very lavish, 25s. a-day for each individual ought fully to cover all the outlay, even when travelling post. On a pedestrian excursion in remote situations, the expenses can hardly exceed from 5s. to 10s. per diem. The cost of living at foreign inns is insigniGcant compared with that of locomotion, and the latter will of course be proportionately increased when the traveller proceeds rapidly, making long days’ journeys. The above calculation will be near the mark if he travel 70 or 80 English miles a-day ; if he limit himself to 40 or 50, the expense will probably not exceed 20s. for each person.C. MONEY-----CIRCULAR NOTES. Xvii of payment, subject to no deduction for commission, or to any other charge whatever, unless the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. They are drawn to order, and the traveller will naturally, for his own security, not endorse them till he receives the money ; besides which, such cheques are so concerted with the agents as to render a successful forgery of his name very difficult.” Owing to the number of English who now go abroad, these circular letters can no longer be expected to serve as a private letter of intro- duction ; but it is of np slight importance in many cases of difficulty to the stranger, in a strange place, to be able to produce a reference to some person of respectability; and the parties to whom these letters are addressed are usually ready to afford friendly advice aud assistance to those who need it. It is advisable to take a small supply of English gold to pay the expenses in the steam-boat, and on landing, as well as to guard against running short of money in places where circular notes cannot be cashed. English sovereigns bear a high premium all over Germany, and in shops and inns at all the large towns they ought to be taken at their full value. "When the stranger, however, requires to change this or any other money into the current coin of the country in which he is travelling, the best plan is to take them to some authorised Money- changer (Geld-wechsler, Changeur de monnoies), who from his pro- fession is necessarily acquainted with the rate of exchange (such persons are to be found in almost every town) ; and by no means to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. Waiters, and clerks of steamboats and railway offices, are too apt to presume upon the traveller’s ignorance by depreciating the value of Napoleons, Sovereigns, and 10-Guilder-pieces, unless the stranger be aware of the true value, and demand specifically the full amount of change. A traveller, in changing a circular note, will of course take the money of the country, provided he intends remaining long enough in it to expend the sum taken. If, however, he is only passing through it, the best foreign gold coin he can take is Napoleons, as others bear a higher premium. The best continental gold coins which persons bound for Germany can take with them out of England, are probably the Prussian Fried- richs d’or, current for their full value throughout the states of the Custom House League, and the Dutch pieces of 10 and 5 guilders, which are current, not only in Holland and Belgium, but also in Germany. Napoleons pass in France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and on the immediate borders of the Rhine; in other parts of Ger- many, and in Holland, though less common, they are generally received at little or no loss. Gold coins are rare in many parts of the Continent, and must be purchased at a premium by those who require them. A few years back, travellers unwilling to pay an agio for gold were often obliged to receive in change for a circular note 20/. worth of silver in crown pieces, dollars, and the like; but at present the Prussian Bank notes for 10, 5, and 1 dollar, &c., whichxviii C MONEY.----d. PASSPORTS. are current in every part of Germany where the new custom-house system prevails, and the Bavarian and Austrian paper currency, — both of the same value as the metallic currency,—relieve the traveller from the necessity of thus loading himself. The best silver coins to take are, for Northern Germany, Prussian dollars, since the coins of Prussia (except the small pieces) now pass current in all the states which are members of the New Cus- tom-house Union (Zollverein); and for Southern Germany, Bra- bant dollars (ecus de Brabant), which are almost universally current, from Frankfurt and Dresden, southwards, florins and half florins. It is essential to be provided with the legal money of the country in which you are travelling, if you would avoid delay or extortion at inns, post-houses, &c. In merely passing through a country, it is expedient to take no more of its coins than are necessary to carry one through it, as almost every state has a distinct coinage; and a certain loss must be sustained by each exchange. d. PASSPORTS. Of all the penalties, at the expense of which the pleasure of tra- velling abroad is purchased, the most disagreeable and most repug- nant to English feelings is that of submitting to the strict regulations of the continental police, and especially to the annoyance of bearing a passport. It is also often a source of great inconvenience in causing unwished-for delays. As this, however, is a matter of necessity, from which there is no exemption (no one being allowed to travel on the Continent without a passport), it is better to submit with a good grace. By a little care and attention to this matter at first, the traveller may spare himself a world of vexation and inconvenience in the end. In Germany the severity of the passport system has much diminished from what it was formerly, owing to the prevalence of peace, tranquil government, the zollverein, railroads, and steamers, and perhaps a lurking conviction of the inutility of the system. As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the pass- port ; since the loss of it will subject the stranger to much trouble, and may cause him to be placed under the surveillance of the police. It should always be carried about the person, as it is liable to be con- stantly called for; and, to preserve it from being worn out, which it is likely to be from friction in the pocket, and being thumbed by the horny fingers of so many police agents and gens-d’armes at each suc- cessive vise, it is convenient to have it bound up in a pocket-book*, with blank leaves to receive signatures when the vacant spaces on the pass- port itself are covered. Before leaving England it is necessary to obtain a passport, which is generally procured from the minister of the country in which the traveller intends to land; and it is very advisable to have it also vise, or counter-signed, by the ministers of those countries through which he proposes afterwards to pass. For instance, if he be going up the * Such pocket-books are made by Lee, 440. West Strand, and kept in readiness by him.d. PASSPORTS. xix Rhine to Frankfurt, and intend to land at Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, he may obtain a passport from the Dutch consul. If he go by Calais, he may get a French passport; if by Ostend, a Belgian; or he may obtain a British consul’s passport at1 any of the foreign towns or seaports where our consuls reside. A Prussian passport, or one bearing a Prussian minister’s or consul’s signature, procures admittance for the bearer, without delay or difficulty, at any part of the Prussian frontier. The same rule of obtaining a signature of a minister should also be observed before entering the States of Austria — Russia — Bavaria —France—Holland—Belgium. With many it is indispensable; with all it is advisable. Travellers in the Low Countries, Belgium, and Germany are not much troubled about their passport, but it is not the less indis- pensable ; the stranger who is found without one will get into trouble. — Nobody can take his place in a diligence or hire post-horses, without one. The usual process of obtaining a passport from an ambassador or minister, is to address a written or verbal application to his secretary, and to state the Christian and surname, age, height, profession, and address of the applicant. This must be left, one day in advance, at the house or office of the embassy. The applicant must appear in person the following day to receive his passport, which will be delivered to him, without fee, by the ambassadors of France or Belgium. A shilling, properly administered to the porter at the door, will often materially shorten the time during which the applicant is generally compelled to kick his heels in the ambassador’s ante-room. Persons residing in the country, or in provincial towns of England, may obtain a passport from the Foreign ministers in London, upon the application of the mayor or magistrate of their place of residence, accompanied by a statement of their age, destination, &c., as detailed above. The different members of a family can have their names included in one passport, but friends travelling together had better provide themselves with distinct passports. Male servants should also have separate passports, distinct from their masters’. N. B. — The signature which the bearer of a passport must attach to it when it is delivered to him, ought to be written as clearly and dis- tinctly as possible, that it may be easily read by the numerous func- tionaries through whose hands it is destined to pass, who are sometimes half an hour in deciphering an ill-written name, while the owner is wasting his patience at the length of the scrutiny. By this slight pre- caution the loss of many a quarter of an hour may be saved. Much delay and inconvenience may also be avoided, by causing the full description of the person to be inserted in the passport at once ; the want of it will excite suspicion in some foreign passport offices, or even subject the bearer to arrest. Besides the ambassadors, the consuls of the different foreign powers issue or sign passports at their offices in the City, for which a chai’ge of 5, 6, or 7 shillings is made. The consuls deliver their passports at once, without requiring that the application should be made the day before; their offices are also open earlier than the ambassador’s, usually from 10 or 11 to 4; thus much time is saved, which with many will be more than an equivalent for the payment.XX d. PASSPORTS.--------FRENCH AND BELGIAN. PRUSSIAN. French and Belgian Passport. French passports are issued immediately, for the sum of 5s., at the General Consulate office only, No. 47, King William Street, London Bridge. Passports are issued gratuitously by the Belgian minister, 9a, Weymouth Street, Portland Place, on. the day after the first appli- cation has been made for them. Application to be .made between 12 and 3 ; passport may be obtained next day between 11 and 2. Either of these passports ought to be countersigned by the minister of the other country, provided the traveller is about to pass through it. Prussian Passport. The Prussian minister, residing in London, will not give passports to Englishmen, unless personally known, or especially recommended to him. He will, however, countersign the Dutch or Belgian passport, if you apply between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. at the Prussian Embassy, 4. Carlton-house Terrace. The Prussian Consul-general issues pass- ports at his office, 106. Fenchurch Street, every day from 10 to 4, upon payment of 7s., and when 2 of a family are included, 10s. Upon the whole, the passport of the Prussian Consul is a very respectable and efficient one for the English traveller about to proceed to Germany and the Rhine, through Holland, or Belgium, or the Hanse Towns. Austrian Passport. The Austrian Ambassador in London will neither give a passport to an Englishman, nor countersign any, except that issued by the British Secretary of State. For the traveller bound to any part of the Austrian dominions, or to Italy, the Austrian signature is absolutely indispensable, and it is therefore a matter of necessity to obtain it, if not in London, at one of the great capitals on the Continent — at Paris, Brussels, the Hague, Frankfurt, Carlsruhe, Berlin, Dresden, Berne in Switzer- land, or Munich — where an Austrian minister resides. The traveller must even go out of his way to secure it, or else, when he arrives at the Austrian frontier, he will either be compelled to retrace his steps, or will be kept under the surveillance of the police, until his passport is sent to the nearest place where an English and Austrian ambassador reside, to be authenticated by the. one and signed by the other. An Englishman’s passport ought also to be signed by his own minister at the first English embassy. British Secretary of State's Passport. Those who do not grudge the considerable expense of 21. Is. 6d., the price of an English Secretary of State’s passport, may obtain one at the Foreign Office in London, provided they be personally known at the office, or can procure a written or personal recommendation from a banker, or other person of respectability who is well known there. The chief privilege attending it is that the bearer may obtain the Austrian Ambassador’s signature before leaving England, and can thus obviate delay and trouble.e. COURIERS. xxi It possesses few, if any, advantages over the common passports properly vise. It is taken away on entering France, like any other passport, and the same in Russia; indeed, for a traveller in Russia it is totally useless. A Secretary of State’s passport remains in force at least 5 years. The Austrian embassy will sometimes not viser a Foreign Office passport signed by a minister no longer in office. Passport of Consuls at British Seaports and Foreign Seaports. Her Britannic Majesty’s consuls abroad, at Calais, Boulogne, Ostend, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Hamburg, &c., can give a passport to a British subject, charge 5 fr. 50 c.; so also can the consuls of France residing at Dover, Brighton, Southampton, and other British seaports ; but it is prudent to provide one in London before setting out. The writer has been thus minute and precise in his details respect- ing the passport, because he knows how essential it is to the traveller to have this precious document en regie, and he has experienced the serious inconvenience to which those who are not aware of the neces- sary formalities are constantly exposed. e. COUKIEKS. It is notorious that English servants taken for the first time to the Continent, and ignorant of every language but their own, are worse than useless — they are an incumbrance. The traveller who requires a servant at any rate had better take a foreign one; but he who speaks the language of the Continent himself, and will sub- mit to the details of the coinage and the post books, may save him- self much expense by dispensing with a servant altogether. Thus the knowledge of language becomes a source of economy. A courier however, though an expensive luxury, is one which conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travelling, and few who can afford one will forego the advantage of his services. He relieves his master from much fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, in unravelling the difficulties of long bills and foreign moneys, sparing his temper the trials it is likely to endure from disputes with innkeepers, post- masters, and the like. A courier, if clever and experienced, and disposed to consult the comfort of his employer, is a most useful person. His duties consist in preceding the carriage at each stage, to secure relays of post-horses on those routes where horses are scarce, or where the number of travellers renders it difficult to pro- cure them. This, however, is seldom necessary, except where the travelling party is very large, occupying several carriages, and re- quiring 6 or 8 horses, which may take an hour or two to collect at a post-house, and must often be brought in from the fields. He must make arrangements for his employer’s reception at inns where he intends to pass the night; must secure comfortable rooms, clean and well-aired beds, and order meals to be prepared, fires to be lighted, taking care that his master is called in proper time, and that the post-horses are ordered at the right hour. He ought to have a thorough knowledge of every thing that relates to the care of a carriage; he should examine it at the end of each day’s journeyxxii e. COURIERS. to ascertain whether it requires any repairs, which should be exe- cuted before setting out; and it is his fault if any accident occur en route from neglect of such precautions. He should superintend the packing and unpacking of the luggage, should know the num- ber of parcels, &c., and be on his guard against leaving any thing behind. It falls to the courier to pay innkeepers, postmasters, and postboys, and he ought to take care that his master is not over- charged. Besides this, he performs all the services of waiting and attendance, cleaning and brushing clothes, &c. He ought to write as well as speak the language of the countries he is about to visit, so as to be able to communicate by letter with innkeepers, when it is necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand; and he is not perfectly accomplished unless he have a smattering of the art of cookery. From what has been stated above, it will be perceived that the master is greatly at the mercy of the courier, and that he oyght, there- fore, by all means to be “ sharply looked after.” As a further caution, we quote what follows from the Road Book of Mr. Brockedon, an ex- cellent guide. “ The faults of many of the couriers who offer their services to travellers are numerous and serious: though the usual wages of ten or twelve Napoleons a month, to find themselves, be paid them, they live at the cost of the traveller; that is, they pay nothing at the inns; but if this were all, it would be unimportant; the fact is, that they regularly sell their families to certain innkeepers, to whom they are known on the road, and demand a gratuity proportioned to the number and stay of their party: this is recharged in some form upon the traveller. On the road, if a dishonest courier pay the postillions, he pockets something at each relay, generally from their remuneration, which in the course of a long journey becomes of a serious amount. The author, after having long submitted to systematic and customary peculation until it passed endurance, found, from the hour that he parted with his courier, that the bills at the inns fell above 20 per cent, without previous arrangement; and that the postillions were grateful and pleased for less than the courier said he had paid for their services when they were dissatis- fied. Upon the author’s remarking upoh the difference in the amount of the bills at the inns, when he had a courier, and when he travelled with his family without one, he wras assured by the innkeeper of Mayence, where the difference was first observed, that he hated and feared the couriers as a body, and infinitely preferred receiving a family without one; for, after paying the courier’s usual demand for bringing a family to his hotel, he was obliged to charge it in the amount of the bill, which often proved unsatisfactory to travellers; that if he refused to comply with such demands of the couriers, as they always preceded the arrival of the families they travelled with, they took them to other hotels, and reported to the association of couriers, which exists in Paris and other cities, the innkeeper who had refused compliance with their demands, and they punish him by uniformly avoiding to recommend his house, or take there the families with whom they travel. However well a courier may know ae. COURIERS. xxiii city or place, he never acts as valet de place, unless his family make purchases, when he never fails to be in attendance, to receive, after- wards, from the tradesman, a per centage which he claims as agent, and which is charged indirectly in the bill. “ It will scarcely occur once in the course of a week’s journey that the peculiar service of a courier will be felt, that of obtaining’ relays of horses to be in readiness at the post station by the time the family arrive; and he will rarely have opportunities of securing the progress of his employers by anticipating other travellers; and when de does, it is by no means an uncommon thing for him to take a bribe to forego his claim to the horses which he has ordered. Couriers are often smugglers, who conceal contraband articles about the carriage, and thus risk the property and liberty of their employers. There are, however, honest couriers; and when their services can be obtained, they are truly valuable, especially to those who have never travelled before.” — Brockedon's Road Book to Nrples. “ It is manifest, from the duties of a courier, that he has the tempation and opportunity of being dishonest; but so has every servant in whom confidence is placed, and to whom property is in- trusted ; but it is as repugnant to our feelings, as it is at variance with our experience, to condemn couriers or any other class. There are honest and faithful couriers, who not only protect their employers from the imposition of others, but vigilantly and indefatigably per- form their duty in other respects. For the sake of servant and master we advise travellers to settle their courier’s accounts regularly and at short intervals, and to examine minutely the book of expenses. "We have no hesitation in saying that, especially to a family, a good fcourier is invaluable in saving time, trouble, money, and loss of temper to his master.” — Dr. S. There can be no doubt that the couriers exact from the innkeepers a per centage on the amount of their bills, and often insist upon their raising their charges on this account. They likewise expect to be fed gratuitously. Travellers going post in any part of Germany may enjoy all the advantages of an avant-courier, without the trouble or expense, by availing themselves of the Laufzettel. (See § 34.) The usual wages of a courier while travelling are from 81. to 101. a month, — if he be engaged for less than 2 months, he will probably expect 12/.; if his services be retained while his master is stationary in a place he ought not to expect more than 61., supposing his engage- ment to last for ten or twelve months. Couriers are to be heard of at the Carved Lion, South St., Grosvenor Square, at No. 7. Old Compton Street, Soho, and No. 15. Arundel Street, Panton Square, &c., &c., London; at Calais, Paris, Geneva, and most of the great capitals of Europe. Couriers and travelling ser- vants, male and female, may be heard of at Lee’s, 440. Strand. They ought on no account to be engaged without producing unexceptionable testimonials as to character, such as would be required of any other servant. A less expensive, and sometimes very honest, domestic may often be found among the Swiss, Piedmontese, and Germans in conti- nental cities, bufc caution must be exercised in receiving such. Inxxiv f. CARRIAGE. some countries of the Continent, such as Norway and Sweden, Russia, Poland, and Hungary, a servant acquainted with their languages is quite essential to a traveller’s coiyfort. In a large part of Germany, the French language is literally useless. f. CARRIAGE. Within the last few years the rapid formation and ramifications of railways through Belgium and Germany, in combination with the extension of steam navigation on all the rivers, has operated as an argument against taking a carriage from England. $With such ex- peditious and comfortable modes of travelling at command, it is far better for those who study economy at all, to hire vehicles from place to place, when required, or for a fixed period from a foreign coachmaker, than to carry a private carriage for several hundred miles by steamboat or railroad, as a piece of luggage, without deriving any benefit from it, — with the heavy expense of transport by water and land, added to that of conveying it between the railway stations and the inns. On the other hand, however, notwithstanding the increasing number of railroads, there is still some advantage where 4 or more persons are travelling together, and for any considerable distance, in taking a car- riage. Owing to the very high charges, and strict regulations about luggage, the expense to such a party is not much increased thereby, as the whole party may occupy the carriage, paying only 2nd, or in some cases (e.g. Prague to Vienna), 3rd class fare ; while the luggage, being contained in the carriage, creates no additional charge. If such a party, not having a carriage, travel in 1st class places, and have a good deal of luggage,—and English people usually do both,—their transit ex- penses will probably be as great without as with a carriage. Some trouble, too, is saved in passing custom-houses by having a carriage, provided there is good management. Travellers who value comfort and appearances, and do not mind expense, should by all means take an English carriage. Those made in London •are far more to be depended on than any continental car- riage, both for ease and durability. An excellent carriage may be hired of a London maker for 10/. a month, and, when the journey lasts for three months, at 8/. a month. The coach-maker undertakes to defray the cost of all repairs rendered necessary by wear and tear, though not those caused by accidents, while the journey lasts. As a measure of economy, where persons intend to travel post, it is desirable to save the expense of freight in steam-boats; sometimes amounting to 10/. or 12/. to and fro, and of duty in passing through France (see p. 107.: — in Belgium no duty is charged), as well as to avoid the injury which a private carriage will inevitably sustain from a journey on the Continent. In this case, it is expedient either to hire a carriage at the foreign sea-port at which the traveller lands, or to purchase one of foreign make. A great variety of second-hand carriages are usually kept either for hire or sale by the innkeepers at Calais, Rotterdam, Hamburg, &c. &c.; but it must be Confessed, that they are usually sorry, broken-down vehicles, and they are let at a rate not much less than the English, viz. about 8/. a month.XXV f CARRIAGE. Persons engaging a carriage in this manner for a journey are gene- rally obliged to retrace their steps to the same place in order to re- turn it. If, however, they purchase the second-hand carriage, they may generally dispose of it at the end of their travels, and gain back a part of the sum paid. The places upon the Continent where the best carriages are built are Paris, Vienna, Brussels, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Frankfurt'; they may be purchased new for about one third less than in England*. They are neither so elegant nor so well finished as the English, but are still good serviceable carriages for travelling. The best form of carriage for a small party is the Caliche, or Britzka, which, by the new mode of fitting up with leather curtains or moveable windows, may be made to hold four persons inside in case of rainy weather. A chariot (batarde) is not common on the Continent, except among English, who import them o from their own country. It requires more horses to draw it tfian a light caleche, even though holding the same number of persons. A driving seat in front may be regarded as essential in a travelling carriage intended for the Continent, since in many countries the expense of one horse may be saved if the postboy drives from the box ; if he rides, the postmaster is authorised to add an extra horse for him to ride on, and this even in the case of a britzka holding only two persons. In 1837, a light but strongly built English caleche without a perch, weighing only about nine or ten .cwt., though it held four persons, travelled over a large part of the Continent with only two horses. The baggage was not heavy, and the postboy, when re- quired, could drive from the seat. The servant or courier should be desired to cause the wheels to be greased every morning, and should even be present to see that it is done. Special attention should be given that the linch-pins are properly replaced: foreign ostlers are very careless on this head; and in France it seems as though they were often purposely extracted to give employment to the smith, or perhaps only to make mischief. A box should be attached to the carriage, con- taining a wrench for taking off the carriage wheels, a number of extra linch-pins, and pieces of tin to fasten the linch-pins. Candles should be placed in the lamps: they are often called for on an emergency, and in situations where they are not to be got in a hurry. Not only should a drag (shoe) be taken, or two of them for a heavy carriage, but also a chain with a hook, to attach to a spoke of the wheel, along with the drag, so that, in case of its failing, the traveller has a second safeguard to depend on. The drag should be of large size, and of very well-tempered metal. an ordinary drag, such as is made on the Continent, will be worn out in half an hour in descending the interminable declivities of one of the great Alpine passes. Wheels with patent boxes are not understood on the Con- tinent, and if they should go wrong, could with difficulty be repaired ; thus common axles are preferable, unless with a servant who under- stands perfectly the management of the others. When a journey of only a few weeks is meditated, such as a tourXXvi g. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. up the Rhine and back, it is not worth while to take a carriage, now that the extension of railroads and steamers affords such facilities for public travelling. • g. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. On all occasions it is desirable to have as little baggage as pos- sible. JBut this is more especially the case on the Belgian and Ger- man Railroads. “Passengers are allowed to retain parcels, which are not too large to go under the seat of the carriages ; all larger arti- cles are taken from them, and the trouble, time, anxiety, and ex- pense, which are saved by having only a bag which may be thus stowed away, and carried in the hand, are incalculable.” — P. H. “ Those ladies who take an interest in mountain scenery, or excur- sions from the high road, will find great advantage in a saddle con- structed by Whippy, in North Audley Street. The crutch is separ- able, for the convenience of packing. The girths, crupper, &c., are so made as to fit horse or donkey. The whole packs into an oil cloth bag, which may be attached to any part of the carriage. To any per- son who has been in the habit of riding, this pad will be found more convenient than even the saddles made at Chamounix expressly for steep and rugged mule tracks. I have never found any difficulty in procuring animals to ride, but on no occasion, except at Chamounix have I been able to procure a woman’s saddle.” — W. B. B. On crossing frontiers, as between Verviers and Aix-la-Chapelle, no parcels are allowed to remain in the carriages with the passengers. The following hints are principally addressed to those who intend to make pedestrian journeys. The shoes, or buttoned-boots, ought to be double-soled, provided with hob-nails, such as are worn in shooting in England, and without iron heels, which are dangerous, and liable to slip in walking over rocks; three rows of nails are better: the weight of a shoe of this kind is counterbalanced by the effectual protection afforded to the feet against sharp rocks and loose stones, which cause contusions, and are a great source of fatigue and pain. They should be so large as not to pinch any part of the foot. The soles should be made large not only to afford the feet a firm bearing, but that the projecting edge may protect the feet from blows, from large stones, &c. Small screws will be found better than nails, as nails are apt to be knocked out by striking against rocks, and the screws hold together the different layers of the soles, which when thick will often, after being much wetted, separate from each other. The experienced pedestrian never com- mences a journey with new shoes, but with a pair that have already conformed to the shape of the feet. Cotton stockings cut the feet to pieces on a long walk; in their places, thick knit worsted socks, or cotton stockings with worsted feet, ought invariably to be worn. Gaiters are useful in wet weather to keep the socks clean ; at other times to prevent small stones from falling into the shoes, but they are liable to heat the ankles. It is advisable to travel in woollen trousers, not in linen, which afford no protection against rain or changes of temperature in mountain regions; those of Tweedg. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. XXVii stuff are very suitable. A frock coat is better than that pet dress of juvenile Englishmen—a shooting jacket, which, though well enough, in remote places, is strange, and will attract notice in the streets of a foreign town. A very serviceable article in a traveller’s wardrobe is a Blouse (Kittel in German), somewhat resembling a ploughman’s smock- frock in England, but by no means confined to the flower orders abroad, as it is a common travelling costume of nobles, gentles, and peasants. It may be worn either over the usual dress, to keep it clean and free from dust, or it may be substituted for the coat in hot weather. This kind of garment may be purchased ready-made in any German town. The best colour is brown ; blue is usually worn by agricultural labourers only. The common light great coat now worn in England is perhaps even preferable to the blouse. A knapsack may be purchased at a much cheaper rate abroad, and on a much better plan than those made in England. Portmanteaus are better in England than any where else. The dimensions ad- mitted in the French mails are, 27 inches in length, 15 in breadth, and 13 in height; which a traveller bound for France will do well to remember. Soap is indispensable, being a rare article in Con- tinental Inns. A waterproof Macintosh life-preserver may be useful in some situations. A flask, to hold brandy and kirschwasser, is necessary on mountain excursions: it should be remembered, however, that spirits ought to be resorted to less as a restorative than as a protection against cold and wet, and to mix with water, which ought never to be drunk cold or unmixed during a walk. The best restorative is tea, and it can be procured good in Holland, and in most of the large towns of Germany. Carey, optician, 181. Strand, makes excellent pocket Telescopes, about four inches long, combining, with a small size, considerable power and an extensive range. Black glass spectacles are the best protection for the eyes against the glare of the sun in a southern climate. Spectacles are almost indispensable in railway travelling, for those who ride in 3d class carriages, to protect the eyes from dust and cinders. A very neat portable writing case is made by Lee, 440. W. Strand, who keeps also polyglott washing books in 7 or 8 languages. A stout leather or canvass bag, to hold silver crown pieces and dollars ; — cards, adhesive labels, pieces of parchment or leather, for writing directions for the baggage (the managers of public convey- ances abroad often insist upon each package being addressed, before they will take charge of it) ; —and one or two leather straps, to keep together small parcels, will be found very useful. h. STEAM-BOATS FROM ENGLAND TO THE CONTINENT, •** Berths may be secured in the Steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company; but they should be taken some time before-hand, and notice thereof should be sent to the captain of the vessel, by the clerk of the office, and information may be obtained respecting them, at the offices,xxviii i. landing.—custom-house.— commissionaires. 69. Lombard Street, and 37. Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Passengers are re- quested to have all the packages composing their baggage distinctly marked with their names, and to take the whole on board with them. Baggage is not subject to examination on quitting London, but remains in the custody and under the control of the persons to whom it belongs, and the Company is not liable for any damage or loss of it, nor for unavoidable delays or accident.^ nor Sea Risks of any kind whatsoever. Travellers arriving from the country in London, to start by steam early in the morning, will find the hotels adjacent to London Bridge convenient night quarters. For farther particulars see the printed advertisement of the General Steam Navigation Company, the Belgian Company, the Dutch Company (Batavier), the Commercial Company ( Southampton). Carriages, Horses, and Baggage, being the bona fide property of passengers from, Hamburg and Havre, landed free of expense in London: Carriages and horses, being the bona fide property of passengers going to Hamburg and Havre, shipped free of expense in London. Carriages (properly directed) and horses for embarkation from London, must be sent in charge of proper persons, as follows: —for Hamburg and Havre, to Custom House Quay, Lower Thames Street, by 12 o’clock on the day previous to the departure of the packets; for Antwerp and Rotterdam, to Brunswick Wharf, Blackwall; and for Ostend, Calais, and Boulogne, to London Bridge Wharf, —two hours pre- vious to the departure of the packets. I. LANDING ON THE CONTINENT—CUSTOM-HOUSE—COMMISSIONAIRES. When the steam-boat reaches its destined port, the shore is usually beset by a crowd of clamorous agents from the different hotels, each vociferating the name and praises of that for which he is employed, stunning the distracted stranger with their cries, and nearly scratching his face with their proffered cards. The only mode of rescuing him- self from these tormentors, who often beset him a dozen at a time, is to make up his mind beforehand to what hotel he will go, and to name it at once. The Agent or Commissionaire of the house then steps forward, and the rest fall back, while he takes the new arrival under his protection, extricates him from the throng, and conducts him to his quarters. Passengers are not allowed to take their baggage on shore with them; it is conveyed 2........ 2 2 or 3 Mechlin I "g..... 1 ... -J Brussels J ”..... Of ... 1 Waterloo........7 Namur or Huy... J [Excursion to Dinant and the grotto of Hans. 2 days to go and return.] Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. Liege............... 5 ... [Spa................ 3 ... -j] Aix-la-Chapelle > nj 7)1 or 2 Cologne.........) § 9 J ... [Altenberg and back 9 ... .] Bonn, and.........\ , Godesberg.......) *” 2 [Lake of Laach...... 9 ... .] Coblenz............. 6 ... St. Goar..........\ n _i Bacharach.........) 2 Bingen............1 Riidesheim........J Mayence “1 .-a -... 5 ... 1^ [Wiesbaden .... £ ... 1] Frankfurt J 2.... 2 ... 2 Darmstadt........... 2 ..... [Odenwald........... 2 ... 1] Heidelberg 7—'.... 3 1 or 2 Carlsruhe ) 2.... 2 ... -J Baden "l na......... 1 £ ... 3 Strasburg .......... 2 ... -J Freiburg J *........ 3 ... —£ Schafifhausen... 12 or 14 .... The excursions through Switzer- land are given in Hand-book for Switzerland. Return from Switzerland to London down the Rhine. Hours. Basel to Frankfurt (Railroad) 14 Frankfurt to Cologne .... 10 Cologne to Ostend 1371. SKELETON TOURS. xxxiii C. — A Tour of about 45 Days through Belgium, Rhenish Prussia, and Nassau. The asterisk (*) marks the num- ber of nights to be passed at a place. Hours in Travelling Nights to be passed By Steam-boat to Ostend 15 * Bruges '] -p * Ghent 1 ."5 Brussels J p? 5 ** *• Waterloo [ Namur J 4 * \ Liege J 7 * Spa 3 • Malmedy 5 • Treves 9 «** Descent of Moselle 10 *» Coblenz St. Goar "j 0 *» Bacharaeh l 5 Bingen J * Rudesheim \ Mayence ) 7 • Frankfurt ( Railrd) 2 • »* Wiesbaden 2 * Schwalbach 2 * Ems 4 * Coblenz...., 2 • Andernach 2 * [Excursion to Laacher See 1 day] Remagen 0 [Excursion up the Ahr *] Godesberg. ** [ Excu rsion to Fries- dorf — Drachenfels 6 — Heisterbach 5] .... 1 • Cologne 1 *C Aix-la- Cha- pelle d * Li£ge k I0* P4 • Louvain Malines Antwerp London • Distances in Eng. miles from Lon- don to Frankfurt, by Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Ostend. Miles. London to Briel..... 180 Briel to Rotterdam 20 ---- 200 Rotterdam to Emmerich 111 — to Hague 12 — to Amster- dam 40 Emmerich to Dusseldorf 73$ ---- 184$ Dusseldorf to Cologne.... 31$ — to Elberfeld, 20 Cologne to Bonn 20$ Bonn to Coblenz.... 45$ 97$ Coblenz to Boppart.... 14J Boppart to Caub 16$ Caub to Bingen 11$ Bingen to Bieberich 14$ Bieberich to W iesbaden 3$ — to Mayence... 3 59£ Mayence to Frankfurt 22 — to Mannheim 46J 541^ London to Flushing... 163 Flushing to Antwerp... 66 229 Antwerp to Brussels 26$ — to Liege 62 Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle 28 Aix-la-Chapelle to Dusseldorf) . , — to Cologne $ * 362$ London to Ostend 136 Ostend to Gand 44$ — to Brussels 30$ — to Liege 124 260 Brussels to Liege 67.xxxiv U. SKELETON TOURS. D.—London to Frankfurt and Basle. (By Steam all the way.) By avoiding all stoppages, except to sleep at night, it is possible to reach Frankfurt on the 3rd night from London. Hours in going. To Ostend .................... 9 Cologne ................... 13 Coblenz .................... 7 Mayence .................... 7 Frankfurt (Railway) ........ 1 Basle (Railway) ........... 14 E. — London to Trieste. The quickest way from London to the centre of Germany, to Berlin, Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, or even Vienna, and Trieste, is to take the Steam-boat to Hamburg. Hours. London to Hamburg by steam 52 Berlin (Railway) ........... 7 Dresden (Railway) .......... 6 Toeplitz.................... 8 Prague..................... 12 Vienna..................... 15 Layhach (Railway).......... 10 Trieste.................... 12 The shortest way from Berlin to Vienna is by railway as follows: — Frankfurt on the Oder........ 3 Breslau.................... 9 Ratibor...................... 6 Vienna...................... 14 F. — London to Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna. Days in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. To Mayence........... 4 1 " Heidelberg........ £ JinB. Heilbronn........."1 Stuttgard.........J * Ulm............... 1 ... 1 Augsburg "j ...... 1 ... J- Railway f several Munich J 2 hours. weeks. Hours in Days n g0j0l Travelling. Salzburg............ 15 "j Hallein "I excur- J Berchtesgaden J sions. J Ischl................ Traunsee and Fall.... 5 Linz................ 8 By Danube to Vienna.. 1 of urn. 4 or 5 days. ... 4 ... 5 ... 1 G. — London to Strasburg and Mu- nich, BY WurTZBURG, NUREMBERG, and the Danube. Day Trave Wurzburg......... 1 or N uremberg........ Ratisbon'l £ " ^ Piicfiiiii I 5? pO S' v +■> (A Passau Linz Vienna J Q ... From Linz to the Traunfall and J iD Days of ling. Sojourn. in D. 1* - 1 1 ... 2 1 ... 1 1 ... ... 1 ... 1 ... ••• i - i 3 or 4 Ischl...... Salzburg.... Munich...... Heidelberg.. England by the Rhine as in B. as in E. H. — London to Dresden, the Saxon Switzerland, and Bohe- mian Baths. Days in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. To Frankfurt as in B. or D. 7 Gelnhausen............. £ ... Eisenach "1 Gotha 24 hours firom Erfurt - Frankfurt Weimar Leipzig J Dresden (Railway) 4 10 or 14 Saxon Switzerland, 2 or 3 Toeplitz.............. 8 hrs. 1 Carlsbad.............. 13 ... 1 Prague............... 15 ... 3 Vienna.............. 15 ......... Or from Prague to Linz................ 34 as in F.n. SKELETON TOURS. XXXV I.— Another Route from Dresden. Days in Travelling. To Saxon Switzerland Hermhut and Liebe- werda............. 4 Riesengebirge and Adersbach............ 6 Prague............... 2 Carlsbad........... 1 Eger............... Franzenbrunn......\ g Marienbad.........J Wunsiedel.......... 1 Fichtelgebirge..."1 „ Baireuth..........J The Franconian^ „ Switzerland.....J Bamberg............... Schweinfurth....... Kissengen............ —J Briickenau........... 1 Frankfurt.......... 1 Days of Sojourn. S or 4 3 1 -i K. — Sketch of a Second Tour in the Neighbourhood of the Rhine bt less frequented Routes, intended for such as ARE ALREADT ACQUAINTED WITH Routes A. and B. ' Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. iondon to Calais 5' Tpres 6 Toumay 5 ••» •• ♦ Mons a H Namur Dinant 3 Luxemburg 14 ... ... Treves 4 1 or 2 Descent of Moselle to Coblenz J 1 2 M« Excursions Bingen 6 Kreuznach and Ober- stein 8 Alzey and Mont Ton- ' nerre 6 Kaiserslautern "| Landstuhl 1 8 Diirkheim J Landau 8 Annweiler and back 1 ••• —J Hours in Di Travelling. Soj Spires..,............ 4 ... Carlsruhe............ 6 *1 as Strasburg............ 3 J B. Ban de la Roche and back............... 2 days. Over the Kniebis to Tubingen.......... 12 hours. Stuttgard............ 3 ... 3 Heilbronn............ 2 ... 6£ Descent of Neckar... 8 .... Erbach, in the Oden- wald............... 8 .... Frankfurt............ 8 .... Taunus Mountains to Limburg............ 8 ... 1£ Siegburg............ 11 .... Cologne.............. 3 .... L. — Paris to St. Petersburg in 10 DATS. Brussels........... 12 hrs. Amsterdam.......... 14 Hamburg............ 36 Liibec................6 hrs. St. Petersburg, by steam, 4 or 5 days. M.—What may be done in Three Weeks, travelling by public con- veyance, and now and then at night, and halting on Sundays. Hours in Days. Travelling. 1 London to Ostend, by Dover 9 .............. 1 .............. 1 '£ f Bruges Ghent g f Ghent \ Antwerp 4 Antwerp -■ f Antwerp Brussels ^ 6 Brussels and Waterloo....... — ^ f By Charleroi and the Meuse 1 to Liege—Railway......... 11 J Aix-la-Chapelle\ ......... 4 ----to Cologne J A 2 .... 4 f Cologne................... — ^ Coblenz,................ 6 f Coblenz, Ehrenbreitstein, 10-J &c........................ — St. Goar.................. 6 3 2,xxxvi n. SKELETON TOURS. Hours in Days. _ Travelling. 11 To Riidesheim, seeing Rheinstein and the Niederwald............. 12 12 To Wiesbaden............. 8 13 To Frankfurt............. 2 14 To Heidelburg (Railroad) 4 , f Heidelburg................— |_To Mannheim ... .......... —£ 16 By steam to Cologne........ 14 17 Railroad to Ostend ........ 12 18 Ostend to London......... 9 Four days more would enable the traveller to include Baden and Stras- burg. This route here laid down, would give a traveller the opportunity of seeing several most interesting cities and much fine scenery — though of course they could not be explored thoroughly in such a flying visit. A great many of our countrymen, having no fixed plan to travel by, seem only to calculate how far from home they can go in a limited time, and are con- tented with what they can see from the deck of the steamer, and the win- dow of the diligence. They would be much more gratified were they to portion out their time somewhat in the manner indicated above. N.— London to Milan by Stras- bdbg and the Splugen Pass. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. To Paris ................14 ... 2 Strasburg (by malle- \ ^ - poste in 42 hours) J Schaff hausen........ 16 ....... Zurich................ 5 ....... Coire (across the lakes of Zurich and Wallenstadt) 15 ........ Splugen............... 7 ....... Milan (daily dili- gence)............... 21 ...... A person who secures his place beforehand in the malleposte at Paris to Strasburg, and who can manage to avoid the 2 days’ delay at Paris, oc- casioned by the necessity of exchang- ing his passe provisoire, might reach Strasburg in 3 days from London. N. B. A passport which has once received the signature of the Mini- stres de l’lnterieur et des Affaires Etrangeres at Paris, is not liable to be taken away at the frontier on re- entering France. (See Hand-book for France.) O. — London to Naples. Hours on the Way. To Paris by Brighton and Rouen ............... 20 Chalons sur Saone..... 54 Lyons by steam........... 8 Avignon by steam...... 13 Marseilles............6 or 8 Genoa by steam .......... 2 days Leghorn, ditto........... 2 ... Civita Vecchia, ditto. 2 ... Naples................... 1 \... This journey is practicable in 15 days. P. — London to Constantinople and Athens, down the Danube. Days in Travelling. London to Frankfurt by Ostend and Cologne....... 4 Frankfurt to Ratisbon ... ... 2 Ratisbon by steam down the Danube to Vienna ... 2 Vienna to "1 Presburg, 3 hours 1st V 2dJ • M - 4th or 5th^ § 6th 7 th 12th 14th I .sir s!§ llSi SIS Pesth 13 Mohacs 13 Semlin 22 Drenkova 6 Orsova 3 Gallacz 48 Constantinople 60 Constantinople to Smyrna, by steam every week. Athens, every week. The shortest and most agreeable way of reaching Constantinople or Athens, at present, is by the Austrian LloydSteamersfrom Trieste. Steamers leave Trieste — for Constantinople, by way of Corfu, Syra, Smyrna, &c., every Thursday—for Athens by An- cona, Brindisi, Corfu, Patras, Lutra- ki, and by carriages< across the Isth-M. skeleton tours. xxxvii mus to Calimaki every second Tues- day. Calculating from Aug. 7. and 21. 1849. Table of Time taken in travel- ling from London to various Places on the Continent. (Exclusive of delays in waiting for public conveyance, Steamers, &c.) Days. Berlin (by Hamburg)....... 3 Belgrade.................... 9 Cologne by Ostend (24 hours) 1 Constantinople (down the Danube)................. 14 Copenhagen ............. 4 or 5 Dresden (by Frankfurt) ... 5 or 6 ---------(by Berlin)...... 4 Frankfurt (by Ostend and Cologne)................. 3 Days. Frankfurt (Rotterdam)... 4 or 5 Geneva........................ 5 Milan (by Zurich and the Spliigen)............. 6 or 7 Marseilles.................... 8 Munich (by Strasburg)....... 8 ------- (by Frankfurt) ....... 5 Naples ..................... 1.5 Paris.............. 14 to 16 his. Paris by Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen (20 hours)..... 1 St. Petersburg (by steam from Liibec).................... 8 Pesth ........................ 7 Rome by Marseilles....... 10 or 11 Stockholm.................. 8 or 9 Strasburg (80 hours, via Paris, by diligence)........... 3 or 4 Vienna ( Steam down the Da- nube from Ratisbon)...... 7 or 8 %* Those among the above routes which belong to Southern Germany are described in the second Volume of the Hand-book. The Swiss routes will be found in the Hand-book for Switzerland.Table A. To reduce KRON THALERS (Dollars of Brabant, or Crowns) to Florins. K.T. FI. Kr. K.'T. FI. Kr. K. T. F . Kr. 1 2 42 36 97 12 71 191 42 2 5 24 37 99 54 72 194 24 3 8 6 38 102 36 73 197 6 4 10 48 39 105 18 74 199 48 5 13 30 40 108 — 75 202 30 6 16 12 41 110 42 76 205 12 7 18 54 42 113 24 77 207 54 8 21 36 43 116 6 78 210 36 9 24 18 44 118 48 79 213 18 10 27 — 45 121 30 80 216 — 11 29 42 46 124 12 81 218 42 12 32 24 47 126 54 82 221 24 13 35 6 48 129 36 83 224 6 14 37 48 49 132 18 84 226 48 15 40 30 50 135 ' — 85 229 30 16 43 12 51 137 42 86 232 12 17 45 54 52 140 24 87 234 54 18 48 36 53 143 6 88 237 36 19 51 18 54 145 48 '89 240 18 20 54 — 55 148 30 90 243 — 21 56 42 56 151 12 91 245 42 22 59 24 57 153 54 92 248 24 23 62 6 58 156 36 93 251 6 24 64 48 59 159 18 94 253 48 25 67 SO 60 162 — 95 256 30 26 70 12 61 164 42 96 259 12 27 72 54 62 167 24 97 261 54 28 75 36 63 170 6 98 264 36 29 78 18 64 172 48 99 267 18 30 81 — 65 175 30 100 270 — 31 83 42 66 178 12 101 272 42 32 86 24 67 180 54 102 275 24 S3 89 6 68 183 36 103 278 6 34 91 48 69 186 18 104 280 48 35 94 30 70 189 — 105 283 30o. Table B. English Money reduced to an equivalent Value in the English Money. Hamburg.1 Saxony.® Prussia.® £ s. d.. Mar. Sch. Th. G. Gr. Th. S. Gr. 0 0 1 0 0 0? 0 °§ 0 0 2 0 2? 0 n 0 O 0 3 0 3? 0 2 0 2§ 0 0 4 0 4* 0 2? 0 3§ 0 0 5 0 5? 0 s* 0 44 0 0 6 0 6? 0 4 0 5 0 0 7 0 8 0 4? 0 s« 0 0 8 0 9} 0 Si 0 64 0 0 9 0 1C? 0 6 0 ?§ 0 0 10 0 11? 0 65 0 8§ 0 0 11 0 12? 0 *4 0 94 0 1 0 0 13? 0 - 8 0 10 0 2 O l 11? 0 16 0 20 0 3 O 2 9? 1 0 1 0 0 4 0 3 6?s 1 8 1 10 0 5 O 4 4? 1 16 1 20 0 6 0 5 2? 2 0 2 0 0 7 O 6 0 2 8 2 10 0 8 0 6 13? 2 16 2 20 0 9 0 7 11? 3 0 3 0 0 10 O 8 9i 3 8 3 10 0 11 0 9 3 16 3 20 0 12 0 10 4? 4 0 4 0 0 13 O 11 2? 4 8 4 10 0 14 O 12 0 4 16 4 20 0 15 0 12 13? 5 0 5 0 0 16 0 13 11? 5 8 5 10 0 17 0 14 9? 5 16 5 20 0 18 0 15 9? 6 0 6 0 0 19 O 16 4? 6 8 6 10 1 O 0 17 2? 6 16 6 20 2 0 0 34 4? 13 8 13 10 3 0 0 51 6? 20 0 20 0 4 O 0 68 9? 26 16 26 20 5 O 0 85 11? S3 8 S3 10 6 0 0 102 13? 40 0 40 0 7 0 0 120 0 46 16 46 20 8 O 0 137 2? 53 8 53 10 9 0 0 154 4? 60 0 60 0 10 O 0 171 6? • 66 16 66 20 20 O 0 342 13? 133 8 133 10 30 O 0 514 4? 200 0 200 0 40 0 0 685 11? 266 16 266 20 50 0 0 857 2t 333 8 333 10 1 16 Hamburg ShilUngs=to 1 Marc. 2 24 Good Groschen or 30 Silver Groschen=to 1 Thaler. 3 60 Kreutzers^to 1 Florin. 4 20 Stivers=to 1 Guilder. 3 100 Venetian Cents=to 1 Lira.FI. 0 0 O 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 20 SO 40 50 60 ' 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 If will Table B. ous States on the Continent of Europe. 1.3 Frankfort.3 Bavaria. Holland.4 Venetian Lombardy.1 France.8 Kr. FI. Kr. Gui. Stiv. Lira. Cts. Fr. Cts. 2* 0 3 0 1 0 12* 0 io^ 5 0 6 0 2 0 25 0 23*| n 0 9 0 3 0 37* 0 si A 10 0 12 0 4 0 50 0 41rei 12* 0 15 0 5 0 62* 0 52V, 15 0 18 0 6 0 75 0 17* 0 21 0 7 0 87* 0 72*. 20 0 24 0 8 1 0 0 83* 22* 0 27 0 9 1 124 0 93* 25 0 30 0 10 1 25 1 27* 0 33 0 11 1 37* 1 14£ 30 0 36 0 12 1 50 1 25 0 1 12 1 4 3 0 2 50 30 1 48 1 16 4 50 3 75 0 2 24 2 8 6 0 5 0 SO 3 0 3 0 7 50 6 25 0 3 36 3 12 9 0 7 50 30 4 12 4 4 10 50 8 75 0 4 48 4 16 12 0 10 0 30 5 24 5 8 13 50 11 25 0 6 0 6 0 15 0 12 50 30 6 36 6 12 16 50 13 75 0 7 12 7 4 18 0 15 0 30 7 48 7 16 19 50 16 25 0 8 24 8 8 21 0 17 50 30 9 0 9 0 22 50 18 75 0 9 36 9 12 24 0 20 0 30 10 12 10 4 25 50 21 25 0 10 48 10 16 27 0 22 50 30 11 24 11 8 28 50 23 75 0 12 0 12 0 30 0 25 0 0 24 0 24 0 60 0 50 0 0 36 0 36 0 90 0 75 0 0 48 0 48 0 120 0 100 0 0 60 0 60 0 150 0 125 0 0 72 0- 72 0 180 0 150 0 0 84 0 84 0 210 0 175 0 0 96 0 96 0 240 0 200 0 0 108 0 108 0 270 0 225 0 0 120 0 120 0 300 0 250 0 0 240 0 240 0 600 0 500 0 0 360 0 360 0 900 0 750 0 0 480 0 480 0 1200 0 1000 0 0 600 0 600 0 1500 0 1250 0 100 French Cents =* to 1 Franc. ire be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, It so much gain by the exchange ; if less, it will be so much loss. 3 is not for the use of merchants, but travellers.)Table C. PRUSSIAN MONEY* Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of Prussian Dollars courant of 30 SiW6r Oroschen. Saxony. Rix-Dollars of 24 Good Groscben. Frankfort, Nassau, Bavaria, S/c. Florins of 60 Kreutzers. France. Francs containing 100 Centimes. Switzerland. Francs of 10 Batz. England. Pound Sterling, of 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Th. Q. Rt. Gros. FI. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. £. s. d. 1 i e — 3* — 12 — -,S — — 1& 2 — 7 — 25 — 1,7 — — H — 3 — 2^ — 10£ — 37 — 2,5 — .— H — 4 — 3itt — 14 — . 49 — 3,3 — — H — 5 — 3^ — 17* — 62 — 4,2 — — 5* — 6 — HI — 21 — 74 — 5,- — — 7 — 7 — 3]tt — — 87 — 5,8 — — 8* 8 6JL — 28 — 99 — 6,7 — — H — 9 — 34 1 11 — 7,5 — — 10 — — 35 1 23 — 8,3 — — 114 — 20 — is* 1 10 2 46 1 6,6 — 1 1 . . 22« I 45 3 69 2 4,9 — 2 11 2 — 1 2I« 3 30 7 39 4 9,9 — 5 10 3 —. 2 204 5 15 11 8 7 4,8 — 8 9 4 — 3 19* 7 — 14 78 9 9,7 — 11 8 5 — 4 I8a 8 45 18 47 12 4,7 — 14 7 6 5 17f 10 30 22 17 14 9,6 — 17 6 7 6 16 . 12 15 25 86 17 4,5 1 — 5 8 — 7 14« 14 — 29 55 19 9,5 1 3 4 9 — 8 13* 15 45 33 25 22 4,4 1 6 3 10 9 124 17 30 36 94 24 9,4 1 9 2 20 — 19 H 35 — 73 88 49 8,7 2 18 4 30 28 134 52 30 110 82 74 8,1 4 7 6 40 38 2? 70 — 147 76 99 7,4 5 16 8 50 — 47 14f 87 30 184 71 124 6,7 7 5 10 60 57 3} 105 221 65 149 6,1 8 15 70 66 15 122 30 268 59 174 5,5 10 4 2 80 — 76 4£ 140 — 295 53 199 4,8 11 13 4 90 — 85 17} 157 30 332 47 224 4,2 13 2 6 100 95 51 175 369 41 249 3,5 14 11 8Table D, MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFORT, BADEN, WIRTEMBERG, BAVARIA, &c. FLORINS (at the Rate of 24 to the Mark of Silver) reduced to the Value at par of the Money of Florins (au pied de 24 fl.) of 60 Kreutzers. France. Francs of 100 Centimes. Switzerland. Francs of 10 Batz. Prussia. Dollars courant of 30 Silver Groschen. Saxony. Rix-dollars of 24 Groschen. England. Founds Sterling of 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Fl. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. T. Gr. T. Gr. £. «. d. 1 4 —,2 — -,3 — ",2 — — -.1. — 2 — 7 — -,5 — -,6 — -,4 — — — 3 — 11 — -,7 — “»9 — -,7 — — 1 4 — 14 — 1,- — M — -,9 — — If — 5 — 18 — 1,2 — 1,4 — 1,1 — — If _ 6 — 22 — 1,5 — 1,7 — 1,3 — — 2 . 7 — 25 — 1,7 — 2,- — 1,6 — — 2f 8 — 29 — 1,9 — 2,3 — 1,8 — — 2f 9 — 32 — 2,1 — 2,6 — 2,- — — 3 10 — 36 — 2,4 — 2,9 — 2,2 — — H 20 72 — 4,8 — 5,7 — 4,4 .— — 6f 30 1 8 — 7,3 — 8,6 — 6,7 — — 10 40 1 44 — 9,7 — 11,4 — 8,9 — 1 1| — 50 1 80 1 2,1 — 14,3 — 11,1 — 1 n 1 _ 2 15 1 4,5 17,1 — 13,3 — 1 8 2 4 31 2 9,1 1 4,3 1 2,7 — 3 4 3 6 46 4 3,6 1 21,4 1 16,- — 5 - 4 8 62 5 8,2 2 8,6 2 5,3 — 6 8 5 10 77 7 2,7 2 25,7 2 18,7 — 8 4 6 12 93 8 7,3 3 12,9 3 8,- — 10 - 7 15 8 10 1,8 4 — 3 21,3 — 11 8 8 — 17 24 11 6,4 4 17,1 4 10,7 — 13 4 9 — 19 39 12 -»9 5 4/3 5 — — 15 - 10 — 21 55 14 5,5 5 21,4 5 13,3 — 16 8 20 43 10 29 -,9 11 12,9 11 2,7 1 13 4 30 — 64 65 43 6,4 17 4,3 16 16,- 2 10 - 40 86 20 58 1,8 22 25,7 22 5,3 3 6 8 50 107 74 72 7,3 28 17,1 27 18,7 4 3 4 . 60 129 29 87 2,7 34 8,6 33 8,— 5 — - 70 150 84 101 8,2 40 — 38 21,3 5 16 8 80 — 172 39 116 3,7 45 21,4 44 10,7 6 13 4 90 — 193 94 130 9,1 51 12,9 50 — 7 10 - 100 — 215 49 145 4,6 57 4,3 55 13,3 8 6 8A HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. SECTION I. HOLLAND. ' INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 1. Passports.—2. Money. — 3. Custom House. — 4. Travelling in Holland: Posting, Diligences, Roads, Railroads, Maps. — 5. Travelling by Water, Trek- schuit. — 6. Water. — 7. Inns. — 8. General View of Holland. — 9. Dykes.— 10. Canals. — 11. Polders. — 12. Dunes. — 13. Gardens and Summer Houses. — 14. Dutch School of Painting; Picture Galleries in Holland. — 15. Some Peculiarities of Dutch Manners. — 16. Music.— 17. Agriculture. ROUTES. (In the Table'of Contents throughout this book the names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they are described.) ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Rotterdam - - 25 2. Rotterdam to Amsterdam by ' Delft, the Hague, Leiden, and Haarlem — Railroad - 29 3. Amsterdam to Broek and Saar- dam - - - - - 63 4. Haarlem to the Helder, and back to Amsterdam - - 67 5. Amsterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem —Railroad ; and to Nymegen - - - - 73 6. Amsterdam to Arnhem - - 77 7. Amsterdam to Groningen, Leeuwarden, Harlingen, and Emden ; visit to the Pauper Colonies of Fredericksoord - 77 8. Amsterdam to Bremen - - 82 !l. PASSPORTS. Persons going direct to Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, may obtain a passport from the Dutch consul, 123. Fenchurch Street, who makes a charge of 5s. If provided with another passport, they had better, at least, secure a Dutch minister’s signature to it. Little strictness is usually observed in Holland regarding passports. After the political events of 1848, however, the police, par- ticularly at Rotterdam and its neighbourhood, became very strict about them. A Prussian, French, or Belgian passport, properly wise,'will answer perfectly well for travelling in Holland. B ROUTE 9. Rotterdam to Utrecht - 10. The Hague to Utrecht 11. The Rhine in Holland (A) (a) Rotterdam to Nymegen by the Waal Branch (b) Rotterdam to Arnhem [by the Leek Branch 12. Arnhem to Kampen by Zut- phen and the Yssel 13. Rotterdam to Antwerp by Dort and Breda; or by water, passing Bergen-op- Zoom PAGE 82 84 - 84 - 88 - 89 - 90 N. B. The Rhine from Nymegen to Cologne and Mayence is described lint]PT* tho hoar] of2 2. money. — 3. custom-house.—4. posting. Sect. I. 2. MONET. Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. The Guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8d. English. It is divided into 20 stivers, and into 100 cents: 1 stiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. , Cents. Stivers. Silver Coins. — The Guilder (or Dutch florin) „■ = 100 = 20 = \ guilder (called Vyfjes or Quartjes) =2 5=5 = guilder or dubbeltje = 10 = 2 = Stuiver or ^ guilder = 5=1 = Ducatoon = 315 = 63 = 3-guilder pieces = 300 = 60 = Zealand (Zeeuwsche) rixdollar = 260 = 52 = Rixdollar ( Ryksdaalder) = 250 = 50 = Dollar (daalder) = 150 = 30 = Agtentwintig = 140 = 28 = Gold Coins. — The William (Willem) \ Willem Ducat 10 guilders 5 guilders 5 guilders 5 stivers = 0 8 9 = O = 0 = 0 a 5 = 5 = 4 = 4 = 2 = 2 £ s. d. O 16 8 0 8 4 When the ducat has its full weight, it is generally taken for 5 guilders 60 cents: but its current value changes with the value of gold. Travellers ought, therefore, to provide themselves only with Williams, which are the newest gold coins: they have also the advantage of being current all over Germany. £30 = 35\ Williams, after deducting commission. The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a Dutch and Belgian coin, is the ^ of a guilder, or of Is. 8d. Centime, a French coin, is the part of a franc, or of 10y Le Clercq, lieutenant of artillery, and lithographed by the Royal Military Academy, 1841. 5. TRAVELLING BY WATER. — TREKSCH UITEN. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction, and, from all the larger towns, several times a day. Barges, called trekschuiten (drag-boats'), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods: they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a partition into two parts ; the fore-cabin, called ruim, appropriated to servants and common people; and the after-cabin, or roef (roof), set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 persons. The roof has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. The barge is more commodious for night travelling and less fatiguing than the diligence, and the traveller may enjoy a comfortable sleep, provided the gnats permit. It must, however, be understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The towing horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertie), who receives a few cents at each stage; and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing- rope, and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. Whenever the barge approaches another, coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen exchange the two monosyllables “huy”and “vull,” indicating which is to go to the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for the Other to pass over. The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The. usual cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile. Its disadvantages are, — 1st, That it rarely travels faster than 4 miles an hour. 2dly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and -villas, yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is very tiresome and monotonous. 3dly, The annoyance of tobacco smoke: and, 4thly, the trekschuit almost invariably stops on the outside of the town to which it is bound, and does not enter it. Hence you have some- times to walk more than a mile to reach an inn, and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, who, though they do not deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke bestowed on them, at least are exorbitant in their charges; so that you are compelled to pay sometimes twice as much for the car- riage of a portmanteau and bag into a town as for the whole passage by the boat.Holland. 6. water.—7. inns.—8. general view of Holland. 5 The railways now established and extending through Holland will gradually divert much of the traffic from the. old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit; Still, notwithstanding all the desagremens, for the mere novelty of the .thing, no one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national conveyance. On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. Even those who travel in their own carriage should send it round by the road, and take their passage in a trekschuit for one stage; for instance, from Amsterdam to Broek or Alkmaar. Excepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is kept up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest punctuality; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs a risk of losing his passage. 6. DRINKING WATER. In the provinces of Holland, bordering on the sea, the water is generally very bad, not drinkable; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, except externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and be delayed on their journey. In many parts, good drinking water is brought in large stone bottles from Utrecht; so that Utrecht water must be asked for at inns. As a substitute for spring water, the effervescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachingen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals; a large bottle costs about 5d. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these waters with Rhenish or Moselle wine and sugar : some consider red Bor- deaox wine, or a little lemon-juice and sugar, added to the Seltzer water, a more palatable drink. 7. INNS. Holland is an expensive country to live in; the wages of labour and taxes are very high ; the inns are consequently nearly as dear as in England. Notwith- standing this, they are, on the whole, inferior to those of most other countries of Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean. Charges. — A bed-room, which may also be used as a sitting-room, costs, on an average, from'1 to 3 guilders; dinner at the table-d'hote, 1^ to 2 guilders; ditto in private, 2 to 3 guilders ; breakfast with teaor coffee, 60 cents. A German traveller rates them thus : bed, 1 guilder ; breakfast, 10 to 15 stivers; tea, ditto ; dinner, with wine, 2 guilders. The dinner hour, at tables-d’hote, is usually4 o’clock. The waiter is called Jan throughout Holland. From J to £ a guilder is given to the servants daily; but the cleaning of shoes and clothes is done by commissionaires, who also serve as laquais de place. They are amply paid with l£ or 2 guilders for a whole day’s services, and with 1 guilder for \ a day. The Porter (Kruyer), who carries luggage from the coach or railway office to the inn, or vice versa, is well paid witli 10 stivers. The beds, owing to the humidity of the climate, are often damp, and should be warmed with the warming-pan, a much employed article in Dutch house- holds. The sheets are also dried by being laid over a wicker frame, beneath which a pan of peat is burnt. 8. A GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Tliete is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an in* telligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste to reach the picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. - The attractions of Holland are certainly of a different kind ; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, that whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what he has not seen before.d 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. I. ■. The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, described in the following pages, may be fully explored in ten days or a fortnight; and there is Certainly no road in Europe which in so small a space has so many curiosities to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned in history. To a stranger Holland appears hardly endurable as a country to reside in, but for a journey of two weeks the universal flatness and the monotony of scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is too strange to fatigue, and, indeed, in sunny weather, is very fertile in picturesque effects. A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited by the Rhine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has been formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued from the water, to whose dominion it may almost be said to belong, by the con- tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long series of years. Much of it is mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of the coast. Were human agency and care removed but for (> months, the waves would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion,—so much of the land lies below the level of the sea; and an extensive tract of the country would be reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud-banks, quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, inundated by their owners during their contests with foreign foes ; and Dutch patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the ^luice-gates, which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some years upon a large portion of the population^ owing to the length of time and the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea re- quired. This glorious sacrifice, however, served to. shpw that it needs not the mountains of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend their native land. ... Holland may be considered in many respects as the most wonderful country, perhaps, under the sun; it is certainly unlike every other. What elsewhere would be considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incon. gruities have been rendered consistent. “ The house built upon the sand ” may here be seen standing; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foun- dation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincum- bent bog earth; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams hidden under ground, which support them. We speak contemptuously of anything which is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several pro- vinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw whisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle dunes, or sand-hills, would be driven about into the interior, and would over- whelm whole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem to be reversed; the sea is higher than the land; the lowest ground in the country is 24 feet below high-water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 30 feet 1 In no other country do the keels of the ships float above the -chimneys of the houses, and nowhere else does the frog, croaking from among the bulrushes, look down upon the swallow on the house-top. Where rivers take their course, it is not in beds of their own choosing; they are compelled to pass through canals, and are confined within fixed bounds by the stupendous mounds imposed on them by human art, which has also succeeded in overcoming the everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean; here, and no where else, does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, “ Thus far shalt thou go, and no further.”Holland. 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 7 In a very extensive district, the canals are brimful of water, which can hardly stir, and, when in motion, flows with a current barely perceptible. There is not a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by the winds; unless, indeed, we take into consideration those vast artificial mountains of granite, which have been brought at enormous expense from Nor- way and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Ex- cepting the eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood; but then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape of piles. “ The total of the hydraulic works between the Dollart and the Schelde have been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300,000,000/. sterling, and form in so small a country a most astonishing monument of human industry.”—Telford. The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to main- taining in perfect order the great works on which his safety depends, and the artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and support, has given a formal and methodical direction to his tastes in cases where Nature would have been better left to herself. Thus trees are often found growing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet andlino, in rank and file, in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not allowed rq spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they are transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more grotesque shapes. By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from insects. The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those elevations which afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast that blows, to sweep every thing before it. So far is this from being the case, that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by turning a windmill. These machines are so numerous, that they may be said to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely used except to grind corn : in Holland they are employed almost as variously as the steam-engine; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat hemp, &c.; but the principal service which they perform is in draining the land; and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act as pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise water only 1 ell, =3‘28 ft,, at once, 3 Or 4 are often planted in a row on stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us : a single sail is often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There are said to be 9000 of these windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 3,600,000 dollars. It will, indeed, be soon discovered, while visiting either the towns or the country parts of Holland, that the inhabitants do not subject themselves to the unceasing menial labour which characterises the Flemings, Germans, and even the English. A windmill pumps the water out of the polders ; a horse drags passengers and merchandise to and fro on the canals ; a street porter is scarcely ever seen carrying a burden. He uses first a wheelbarrow, and when he be-8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. $ Sect. L comes rich enough to buy a horse, he has it harnessed to a sledge, on which he drags the burden along the streets. To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even the cows' tails, in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descend* ing in the world as they advance in age, here grow upwards: for, with the view of promoting the cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied up to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Broek and elsewhere in Holland. (See Route 3.) Many authors have exercised their wit or spleen in describing this singular country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic words : “ Adieu I canaux, canards, canaille.” The following verses are from the works of Andrew Marvel : — “ Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land, As but the ofTscouring of the British sand, And so much earth as was contributed By English pilots when they heav’d the lead; Or what by the ocean's slow alluvion fell, Of shipwreck’d cockle and the muscle-shell; This indigested vomit of the sea Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. “ Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore, They, with mad labour, fish’d the land to shore, And div’d as desperately for each piece Of earth, as iPt been of ambergris; Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, Less than what building swallows bear away; Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll, Transfusing into them their dunghill soul. “ How did they rivet with gigantic piles, Through the centre their new-catch’d miles ! And to the stake a struggling country bound, Where barking waves still bait the forced ground Building their watery Babel far more high To reach the sea, than those to scale the sky. “ Yet still his claim the injur’d Ocean lay’d, And oft at leapfrog o’er their steeples play’d ; As if on purpose it on land had come To show them what’s their mare liberum. “ A daily deluge over them does boil; The earth and water play at level coil. The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess’d, And sat, not as a meat, but as a gu6st; And oft the tritons and the sea-nymphs saw* Whole shoals of Dutch serv’d up for Cabilku ; Or, as they over the new level rang’d, For pickled herring, pickled herring chang’d. Nature, it seem’d, asham’d of her mistake, Would throw their land away at duck and drake.” The author of Hudibras describes Holland as “ A country that draws fifty feet of water, In which men live as in the hold of nature, And when the sea does in upon them break, And drowns a province, does but spring a leak.”Holland. 9. dykes. 9 And its inhabitants — “ That always'ply the pump, and never think They can be safe, but at the rate they sink : That live as if they had been run aground, And when they die are cast away and drown’d : That dwell in ships, like swarms of rats, and prey Upon the goods all nations’ fleets convey ; And when their merchants are blown up and crack’l. Whole towns are cast away in storms, and wrack’t : That feed, like cannibals, on other Ashes, And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. A land that rides at anchor, and is moor’d, In which they do not live, but go aboard.” — Butler. 9. DYKES. Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To keep out the ocean from the sea-bound provinces, and prevent its acquiring territory which seems to be its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and stone are raised along the coast, so broad and strong as to prevent the water passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to bid deflance to inundation at high tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country are quite as dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained by dykes nearly os extensive as the sea-dykes. The Arst thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to be laid upon it; by ramming down the soil, and by laying a substratum of clay, or by driving in piles, when it is incoherent. Were the foundation porous, the water would undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The foundation of a sea-dyke is from 120 to 150 feet in width. The rampart itself is composed, as far as possible, of clay: whenever that material is difficult to procure, the face of the dyke is made of clay, and the interior of earth, sand, and clay; but clay alone is preferred, as being water-proof. The face of the dyke on the water side is made to slope very g radually : in river dykes generally rising 1 foot in 4 or 6r and in the great sea-dyke of Cappel still more gradually, or 1 foot in 13. This very gradual slope is owing, both to the loose nature of material used, and to an opinion that it is better to allow the force of the wave to expend itself over a long incline. The dyke is protected, or in a manner thatched, by willow twigs interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed every three or four years, occasioning a considerable consumption of willow boughs, and the willow tree is cultivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry, and protected by vast heaps of stones usually brought ftom Norway, and by rows of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, and filled in with fascines weighted with stones : the upper part of the dyke is covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road runs along the top, or immediately within it. “ The dykes, when seen only at one spot, may probably not strike the merely cursory observer as very extraordinary; but when it is recollected that the greater part of Holland is fenced in by simijar bulwarks equally massive and costly, they will appear wonderful.”— I. W. C. The most stupendous of these embankments are the Dykes of the Helder (see Route 4.), and of West Cappel, at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (see Route 18.). The annual expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders10 9. DYKES. Sect. I. (about 6,400/.); while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in the repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers called Waterstaat, including among them many men of science, having received a special instruction in the new college at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the state of the waters and guarding agaiust all accidents from irruptions, — a most important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of Hol- land may be said to depend. During the winter, they are stationed near those spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines are erected, pro- vided with the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a moment’s notice. The winter iS the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrequently happens that long prevailing S.W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, drive an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N.W., the effect is, to propel the sea with great violence southward through the British Channel: but the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the aug- mented body of water readily to pass, and in consequence it falls back upon the coast of Holland. At such moments the “ broad ocean ” may truly be said “ to lean against the land,” and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from sub- mersion. To guard against such an assault the utmost energy, activity, and skill are required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the line ot threatened attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere observed in the ramparts; and workmen are appointed by the au- thorities to be in readiness in the neighbouring villages. It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety the rising tide is, at such times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend far above the ordinary high-water mark; and if they only surmount the top ot the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is enevitable. When such a calamity is anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. With the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke, to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this kind is elevated; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the out- side, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This pre- vents the earth’s being washed away by the action of the waves. It must be remembered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only temporary, and are removed whenever the danger is past. Instances are not rare in which these precautions have proved quite ineffectual; and whole districts have been overwhelmed and lost for ever in the sea, or in the Rhine aiid its branches. The greater part of the space n°w occupied by the Zuider Zee was dry land down to the 13th century. In the time of the Romans, the Yssel emptied itself into the Lake Flevo. _ Beyond this lake, to the S. & W., the Zuider Zee, then also a fresh-water lake, discharged itself by a river, the Vlie, which followed nearly the present channel of that name, entering the ocean be- tween what are now the islands of Vlieland and Ter-schelling. The action ot the waters gradually destroyed the tract of land which divided these lakes. In 1170, during a great flood, the waters of the southern lake rose to the gates of Utrecht, and the lake was greatly extended, especially towards the N. West Friesland, it is said, however, still stretched. across the Zuider Zee from Petten and Medemblick to the Lauwer Zee. From that time, for upwards of 200 years, it continued to increase, swallowing up “ whole forests and many thousand acres of land, so that large ships might be navigated where carriages used to travel.” At last, in 1396, Lake Flevo entirely disappeared, the existing islands wereHolland. 9. dykes.—inundations of the rhine. 31 formed, or completely separated from the mainland, and the Zuider Zee con- verted into an arm of the German Ocean. The Gulf of Dollart, in the province of Groningen, was the result of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that province. Even so late as 1717, 1560 habitations disappeared beneath the waters of the ocean, which had thus broken its bounds. The Biesbosch, near Dort, and the sandbanks near South Beveland, called Verdronken Land (drowned land), are two other examples of submerged districts. Of all the united provinces, Friesland and Groningen have suffered, and con- tinue to suffer, most from floods. The annals of Friesland present the most ex- traordinary series of disasters from the ocean, and these, better than any thing else, will serve to show by what an unstable tenure the Dutch hold the land. “ Friesland was inundated in 533, 792, 806, 839, 1164, 1170, 1210, 1221, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Vlieland, i. e. Lake-land, or land retrieved from the water, was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this year the Gulf of Dollart was formed). In 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present ex- tent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation. 1336, 1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three inundations in this year), 1530, 1532, 1559, 1570. On Nov. 1. an inundation occurred .which covered even the heights called Wieren, and cut off, in different parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30,000 of whom were Frieslanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent; as an improved method of constructing the dykes was then introduced by the Spanish governor Robles, who at the same time passed a law that they should in future be kept up by the owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570 were in 1610, 1675, 1717, 1776, and Feb. 5. 1825.” Gauthier, Voyageur dam les Page-Bays. But Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Meuse must necessarily pass the Dutch rivers; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine get loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the ice is stopped in its course in a narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering to the bed of the river and rising in icebergs high above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 1799, when the very existence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an inundation from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, the Rhine rose atNymegen 7 feet in one hour; and when the accumulated waters at last broke the ice dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the houses of Nymegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the mo- ment the dam burst, the river was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as1, t scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and Waal was laid under water; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enormous. Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improvements in the course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Bingen Loch, as more water now passes in a given time than formerly. The danger now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snow has fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. The winter of 1824-25 was one of the most calamitous to the country known for many years. Amsterdam itself was threatened firom the great height of the tides, which rose far above th^ usual level. The 1st of February, 1825, was a day of great anxiety : had the sea continued to rise a quarter of an hour longer,12 9, DYKES. —10. CANALS. . Sect.I •the dyke must have been overflowed, and perhaps have given way, and Amster. dam would have suffered a calamitous inundation. Fortunately, in a moment 'when the danger was most urgent, the tide stopped, and the great pressure was immediately diminished and removed from the sea-wall; but the lower part of the town had already been laid under water. The injuries done at that time in the province of Holland were immense ; but by Dutch industry all the damage was repaired within 2 years. (Gedenkboek van Neerlands Watersnood, in Feb. 1825, door J. C. Beijer, 2 vols. 8vo. te s’ Gravenhage, 1826. It contains a notice of the more remarkable recorded floods in the Netherlands from the commence- ment of the Christian era to the great flood of 1825.) The arms of one of the United Provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, Luctor, et emergo, “ I strive, and keep my head above water.” It might be generally applied to the whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for existence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inhabitant of the provinces bor- dering on the sea, or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of sub- mersion, is not more secure than he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano heaving beneath him. A stranger can have a full impression of this only when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 feet higher than his head. Some parts of the country lie several feet below the actual bed of the Rhine ; as for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum. Indeed, the industry of the early inhabitants of Holland in restraining their rivers between dykes, so as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to inunda- tion to deposit great part of the sullage on their immediate banks, and raise them higher than the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the Rhine and other great rivers now flow along the ridges of great causeways or natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course of ages, and far higher than the surrounding country. This must in all pro- bability be broken through some day or other, and the Rhine will find a new outlet to the sea. The same effect may be seen in the Po and Adige. See Handbook for N. Italy, p. 368. The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by com- missioners appointed for the purpose. 10. CANALS. Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communica- tion ; every little town and village having its own system of canals, which con- nect it with all the places around. 2dly, as drains to carry off the superfluous water of the country. Sdly, in the place of walls and hedges : fields, gardens, and houses are surrounded by canals of moats, as in other countries by fences ; and they afford an equally good protection. The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short dis- tances by locks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the highway of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no re- striction to its breadth; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are required : but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are provided with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than the waters of the canal itself. The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the AmsterdamHolland. 11. POLDERS. 18 File, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the Y in the century before last, but that high water is now 2 or S inches above this leveL The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North Holland ship canal is truly one of the marvels of the country, and should be viewed by every traveller who visits Amsterdam. In its dimensions it is the largest not only in Holland, but in Europe ( Route 3.). The discovery of the lock, an invention altogether modern, and which has given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been claimed both by the Italians and the Dutch. “ There is strong reason to believe that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its applica- tion in Italy.”—Telford: Edin. Cycl. Inclined planes for transferring vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of rolling bridges, have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have been, not so much to overcome a difference of level, as to prevent the transference of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Overtoon, between Amsterdam and the Haarlem Meer, which is preferred, on account of the interest which the city ‘of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the ancient sea sluices of Sparendam. (On the subject of this section, see the article “ Navi- gation Inland,” in the Edin. CycL It was contributed by the celebrated engineer Telford.) II. POLDERS. Folder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or river, which having once been a morass or lake (jplas, Anglice, plash), has been surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So large a part of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of moras% that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned off by dykes or ramparts; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rhynland, or district around Leiden, are 32 ft. below the sea. Besides the natural lakef', the extent of surface covered by water lias been much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher bogs (hooge veenen, or fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses (laage veenen) of North Holland. The surface cf the bogs of the latter country is rarely above the level of the sea. From Rotterdam to the Helder they cover a very large area, and have proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. But where the peat was extracted stagnant water took its place. Scooped up from beneath this gathering water as long as any available turf existed, or as long as it could easily be reached, the quaking bogs were succeeded by lakes, often from 12 to 20 ft. deep below low water, — sometimes of considerable extent, scattered in numbers over the country, and frequently separated only by narrow intervals of unsteady land between. In draining one of these morasses, or inland seas, and rendering it fit for cul- tivation, the first operation consists in damming it in with a rampart of earth sufficiently strong and high to prevent foreign water from flowing into it. Out- side this rampart or dyke a ringsloot or surrounding drain is made, of dimen- sions sufficient to be a navigable canal. Windmills are then erected on the edge of the dyke, each of which works a water-wheel. Pumps are very seldom used in draining, as the water is usually highly charged with silt, and is not required to be raised a very great height. The instruments employed are, the scoop- wheel, the screw of Archimedes, and the inclined scoop-wheel, or Eckhardt wheel. When a great undertaking of drainage is going on, houses are erected14 11. POLDERS. Sect. I. in a convenient situation on the dyke, where the engineers and a committee of the proprietors constantly reside, and carefully watch the progress which the •windmills are making. In most cases the undertakers are compelled by govern* ment regulations to complete the drainage at a certain period of the year; for the very obvious reason that, if the ground were not cleared of the water until the beginning of the summer heat, the exhalations would materially increase the marsh fevers, which generally prevail in the first years of an extensive drainage. The mills raise the water from the marsh to the ringsloot or canal, which conveys it to a river or to the sea. But most frequently the whole of this great operation cannot be.performed at once: and where the marshes are of too great a depth below the surrounding country, 2 or S dykes and as many canals are xnadg, at different levels, rising by degrees to the upper canal, in which the whole terminates. In the Schermer-Meer, for instance, there are four stages of canals. Every piece of ground forms a long parallelogram, separated from the next by a broad deep ditch, which, in reality, is a first canal. This serves to convey part of the harvest; to carry off the water which, but for this, would continue on the ground ; but, above all, as an inclosure, which renders it unne- cessary to guard the flocks, which seldom attempt to pass over this obstruction. The canals communicate, by means of the above-mentioned mills, with those of the second stage .along the roads ; lastly, two or three upper canals traverse the whole of the polder, like great arteries, carrying all these lower waters into one gTaud canal made below the dyke, and immediately connected with the sea. These canals, on 4 different levels, are, in general, completely separated, but are made to communicate whenever it is desired, and the precise proportion which is thought necessary may be established between them. “ It is 'easy to conceive the extreme fertility acquired by land managed in this manner. Formed originally of mud, which was itself rich, it is covered almost all the year round with herbs which contribute to its fertility. All the water which might be injurious is drawn off at pleasure, by means of the mills, and a regular and gradual irrigation is introduced at the most favourable moment, “ The appearance of the polder itself, when you have got into it, is very different from the upper country ; and, though more remarkable, it is decidedly less agreeable. Each object reminds you that you are at the bottom of a lake, on a factitious soil, where every thing is calculated. When the draining is finished, the undertakers have very regularly portioned out the conquest they have made from the waters; they have divided and subdivided it into perfectly equal parts ; they have dug canals, made roads, planted trees in perfect right lines, proscribed all curves, all variation in the distance, and placed at the head of each farm a square habitation, which is always similar to its neighbour. Very accurately surrounded with 20 trees, often .fine, but never graceful, these redoubts resemble neither farm-houses, which would be less carefully kept, and more animated, nor country seats, where something could be dedicated to pleasure. Their large roofs, coming down nearly to the ground in 4 equal slopes, rest upon brick walls, which are always neat, but never elegant. They look as if they had just sprung up like mushrooms among the tufted grass which surrounds them, and which seems never to have been trodden under foot.” — A Journey in North Holland. In forming an idea of the power which will be required to bale out the water from a lake, or to maintain it in the state of a polder, 3 considerations are to be taken into account; 1st, the depth of water in the lake at its mean level, which indicates the power necessary merely to drain the lake; 2dly, the -average yearly fall of rain and average yearly evaporation, the difference beingHolland. 12. dunes. 15 to be removed by pumping ; lastly, the quantity of spring or ooze water likely to make its way into the hollow land. An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the pro* cesses of a drainage on the very largest scale in the operations now in progress for emptying the great Lake of Haarlem (Route 2.). The better class of polders, with a good soil, when richly manured, and care- fully cleared of weeds, especially those recently redeemed from the sea, are ot great value, and highly productive as arable land; but the greater part furnish pasture or hay for the cattle, and are by no means of inferior value in this grazing country. Many polders are subjected to annual inundations in the winter time, whicb, however, do no harm, if the water which covers them be not salt, and, provided it can be removed by the end of May. The proprietors of the polders pay a certain sum to be permitted to discharge the water pumped out of them into the neighbouring canals. It may, at first sight, appear singular that the polders, the source of agricul- tural wealth, should be equally important to the country in a military point ot view; this is, however, the case. By opening the sluices, cutting the dykes, and inundating the low meadows they enclose—a measure fraught with ruin, and therefore only resorted to at the last extremity,—the Dutch may bid defi- ance to the strongest force brought against them : as, though the depth of water and mud upon a submerged polder is sufficiently great to check the advance of an army, it is too shallow to admit the passage of any but small boats. It is true, that a hard frost sometimes converts the water, which serves as a defence in summer, into a bridge for the invading foes in winter. By availing them- selves of the desperate resource of drowning the land to save it, the Dutch pur- chased their freedom from the yoke of Spain; and Europe beheld with astonish- ment the most powerful monarch in the world, upon whose dominions the sun never set, baffled by the hardy efforts of the inhabitants of a country which in extent is not much greater than Yorkshire. In a following age, 1672, at a time when most of the provinces had opened their gates in consternation to Louis XIV., Holland opened to him her sluices, and was thus preserved from French tyranny. She has made the same sacrifice with equal success at vari- ous other periods of her history ; and even in 1830-32 every thing was prepared to inundate the country, in the event of an inroad of the French army into .Holland, which was at that time threatened. 12. DUNSS. The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dunkirk, nearly without interruption, to the Helder, varying in breadth between 1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are formed en- tirely by the action of the wind blowing up the sand of the sea-shore; they are a source of good and evil to the country j they serve as a natural barrier to keep put the ocean; a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress inland. On the sea-shore they are mere loose heaps, driven about by every blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps; and, were they not restrained, would move onward year after year, and inundate the country. In passing over a desert of this kind at Schevening, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears dim with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the naval annals of Britain, is one of the loftiest on the whole coast, owing to this pause. To check the dispersion of the sand, and the evil attending it, the dunes are13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Sect. I. sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vege- tation peculiar to itself which may be called luxuriant: but a species of coarse reed-grass, or seabent, whichegrows near the sea (Marum, Arundo arenaria), whose roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with [a succession of verdant vegetation, which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plantations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the Dunes may be seen in the Botanic Garden at Leyden. Before the attempt was made to arrest the progress of the sand, it had ad- vanced, in the course of centuries, far into the interior; and it has recently been found worth while, in some instances, to dig away and remove the superincum- bent hillocks, and lay bare the good soil buried by them : since, on being again exposed to the air and light, it is found to be still fertile and productive. (As to the subjects treated of in Sections 8—12., see Art. VI. Edin. liev., Oct. 1847, vol. lxxxvi. p. 419.) 13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Though the charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever direction the traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find the way enlivened by country seats (buiten plaatsen) and pleasure-gardens; in the laying out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they do not always show much taste. They present the most perfect pictures of prettiness, with their'meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, filled with flowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish-pond ; and, if it be wanting, the first step which a Dutch proprietor invariably takes, upon entering a newly-acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may convert into a pond; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the ex- tremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament than use. Through these, or through a gap made purposely in the hedge, the passer-by is admitted to spend his admiration on the beauties within, — on the pyramids of flower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, a summer-house is always placed, called zomerhuis (summer-house), tuin huis (garden-house), or koepel (cupola); this is the resort of the family in spring and summer after- noons. Here the men smoke their pipes and sip tneir beer, coffee, or tea ; the old ladies ply the knitting-needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with eyeing and criticising the passers-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which they can retire when the business of the day is over. Very frequently, on entering the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a peculiarity of taste, they are invariably placed in a stagnant ditch, which is usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often offends the nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. The consequence is, that ere the sun goes down, however warm the evening, these ditch-bestriding pleasure- houses must be abandoned to the neighbourly frogs; and they who should venture top. *hja their evening recreations beyond a certain hour, might pa^Holland. 14. dutch school of painting. 17 for their temerity with a fever produced by the unwholesome exhalations which then begin to rise. “ These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic feature of the country. £ach villa has its name, or some motto, inscribed over the gateway, the choice of which is generally meant to bespeak content and comfort on the part of the owner; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger as he passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ‘ Lust en rust,’ Pleasure and ease; 'Wei le vreede,’ Well contented; ‘ Myn genegenheid is voldaan,’ My desire is satisfied; ‘ Myn lust en leven,’ My pleasure and life; ‘ Niet zoo kwaalyk,’ Not so bad; 1 Gerustelyk en wel te vreede,’ Tranquil and content; ‘ Vriendschap en gezelschap,’ Friendship and sociability; ‘ Het vermaak is in’t hovenieren,’ There is pleasure in gardening. And over the entrance to one of the tea-gardens, near Rotterdam, was inscribed, ‘ De vleesch potten van Egypte, The fiesh-pots of Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds and borders of flowering shrubs and plants are laid out in all the grotesque shapes that can be imagined. It must be confessed, however, that an air of comfort presides over these villas. Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted in lively colours; all the offices and out-houses are kept in neat order; while the verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and white.”— Family Tour in South Holland. The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of the- author of “ Vathek,” and may be regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch taste: — “ Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But, perhaps, I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is con- genial to a Dutch constitution ? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous banqueting rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magist^ature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), o\ie should not wonder at this choice. Such burgo- masters might erect their pavilions in such situations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their sight, since very slight authority would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost proof sufficient of this aquatic descent; and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphin-like termination ? Beckford. 14' DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING * •— PICTURE GALLERIES IN HOLLAND. One point to which the traveller in Holland ought certainly to direct his attention is the collections of pictures of the Dutch school. Though specimens of its masters are dispersed through all the galleries of Europe, they are nowhere seen in greater perfection than in the museums of the Hague and Amsterdam, and in the numerous private cabinets in these and other Dutch towns. * To enter fully Into the history of the different schools of art is beyond the'purpose and scope of this work; but the excellent Handbooks of Fainting by Kugler (Italian schools edited by Eastlnke, R.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by Sir Edmond Head), and that of the Spanish and French schools by Sir E. Head, may safely be recommended as Indispensable com- panions to those who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent.18 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING. Sect. I. The great excellence of the criticisms on art and descriptions of paintings given by Sir Joshua Reynolds in his “ Tour in Holland and Flanders,” and their utility and value to all who would form a correct taste and accurate estimation of paintings, have induced the editor to incorporate in this work the greater portion of them. The quotations are marked by the letter R. By way of introduction, his remarks on the Dutch school are inserted here; while those on the Flemish school, and especially on Rubens, are reserved for the description of Belgium. On quitting Holland, he observes, — “ Ther account of the Dutch pictures is, I confess, more barren of entertain* ment than I expected. One could wish to be able to convey to the reader some idea of that excellence, the sight of which has afforded so much pleasure; but as their merit often consists in the truth of representation alone, whatever praise they deserve, whatever pleasure they give when under the eye, they make but a poor figure in description. It is to the eye only that the works of this school are addressed; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that what was intended solely for the gratification of one sense succeeds but ill when applied to another. “ A market-woman with a hare in her hand, a man blowing a trumpet, or a boy blowing bubbles, a view of the inside or outside of a church, are the subjects of some of their most valuable pictures; but there is still entertainment even in such pictures: however uninteresting their subjects, there is some pleasure in the contemplation of the truth of the imitation. But to the painter they afford likewise instruction in his profession. Here he may learn the art of colouring and composition, a skilful management of light and shade, and, indeed, all the mechanical parts of the art, as well as in any other school what- ever. The same skill which is practised by Rubens and Titian in their large works, is here exhibited, though on a smaller scale. Painters should go to the Dutch school to learn the art of painting, as they would go to a grammar- school to learn languages. They must go to Italy to learn the higher branches of knowledge. “We must be content to make up our idea of perfection from the excellencies which are dispersed over the world. A poetical imagination, expression, character, or even correctness of drawing, are seldom united with that power of colouring which would set off these excellencies to the best advantage; and in this, perhaps, no school ever excelled the Dutch. An artist, by a close examination of their works, may, in a few hours, make himself master of the principles on which they wrought, which cost them whole ages, and perhaps the experience of a succession of ages, to ascertain. The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Rembrandt, Teniers, Jan ■Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Dou, Mieris, Metzu, and Terburg: these excel in small conversations. Ft landscapes and cattle, Wouwermans, Pi Potter, Berchem, Ruysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Vandervelde, Both, and Cuyp; and for buildings, Vanderheyden. , For sea views, W. Vandervelde, jum, and Backhuysen. For dead and live game and birds, Weenix and Hondekoeter. For [flowers, De Heem, Vanhuysem, Rachel Ruisch, and Breughel; and for interiors and perspectives, Peter de Hooghe. These make the bulk of the Dutch school. “I consider those painters as belonging to this school who painted only small conversations and landscapes, &c. Though some of those were born in Flanders, their works are principally found in Holland: and to separate them from the Flemish school, which generally painted figures large as life, it appears to me more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish those two schools rather by their style and manner than by the place where, the artist happened to be born.Holland. 15. peculiarities in dutch manners, etc. 19 “ Rembrandt may be considered as belonging to both, or either, as he painted both large and small pictures. “The works of David Teniers, jun., are worthy the closest attention of a painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His manner of touching, or what we call handling, has,' perhaps, never been equalled. There is in his * pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is difficult to execute. “Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, which might become even the design of; Raffaelle; and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and management of light and shadow, as well as great truth in the expression and character of his figures. “ The landscapes of Ruysdael have not'only great force, but have a freshness which is seen in scarce any other painter. What excellence in colouring and handling is to be found in the dead game of Weenix 1 “ A clearness and brilliancy of colouring may be learned by examining the flower-pieces of De Heem, Huysum, and Mignon; and a short time em- ployed in painting flowers would make no improper part of a painter’s study. Rubens’s pictures strongly remind one of a nosegay of flowers, where all the colours are bright, clear, and transparent.” So many changes have taken place in the situation and condition of the pictures described by Sir Joshua, both in private and public collections, since 1781, when he travelled, more especially in consequence of the French re- volution, as to detract from the value of his work as a guide; and it would only confuse the reader to present it entire, and in its original form. A careful arrangement and selection of the descriptions has therefore been made, after comparing them on the spot with the pictures as they exist; and they are here distributed in the places where the paintings are now to be found; while a great many works of art of the highest excellence, not seen by Sir J oshua, but added to the various collections since his time, are likewise enumerated. 15. SOME PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC, . A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from what he sees at home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. Thdy are so thoroughly intersected by canals (grachten), that most of them might properly be termed-quays, lined with houses, and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round stems, and painted sides ~ are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Vandervelde, and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals are crossed by drawbridges (ophaalbrugen), by which a communication is kept up between on? part of the town and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, and houses; the bustle of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners’ doors; and the tall red brick houses, with variously pointed gables, and varie- gated tiles, so highly polished that they glitter in the sunshine, have! a pleasing as well as novel aspect. Mirrors. — One of the first things that will strike a stranger’s eye in a Dutch town are the little mirrors (spions) projecting in front of the windows of almost all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° to each other, the one reflecting up; the other down the street. By means of this contrivance, the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, with- out the trouble of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze; and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting Or sewing uninterruptedly. Cleanliness. — It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to excess in Holland; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height20 15. PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. Sect. I. among Dutch housewiyes that the assertion is by no means groundless; every thing has an air of freshness, and the stranger in vain looks for a particle of dust. It will be productive of some amusement to issue out into the streets of a Dutch town early on a Saturday morning. It is on the last day of the week that an extraordinary schoonmaken {cleaning) takes place. Every house door presents a scene of most energetic activity : the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and scraping, are not confined to steps and doorways; the pavement, wall, windows, however guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally sub- jected to the same course of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is always Reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the streets is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. He looks up to ascertain whence the shower descends; and he perceives a diligent servant girl, stretched out of a window two thirds of her length, and with eyes intently turned upwards, discharging bowls full of water upon some refractory stain, imperceptible to all but herself. Spiders must stand a worse chance here than in any other country of the globe. Assiduous war is waged against them; the weapon in use being a broom as long as a boarding pike : and the forlorn attempt of a solitary spinner to establish himself in the corner of a window, to which elsewhere he might be supposed to have a prescriptive right, is immediately detected and scattered to the winds. The purification does not end without subjecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and precision reign. The drawing or state room is a sort of sanctum, seldom entered more than once a week, and then only by the housewife and her hand- maiden, with list shoes, to avoid scratching the polished floor, and soap and water in their hands. No sooner is the labour of washing and dusting over, than the furniture is covered, the windows closed, the door locked for another week. In some parts of Holland the visitor is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house ; but he is every where expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In the dairies of North Holland, and especially in the far-famed village of Broek, the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extent of Dutch cleanliness. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance with the Dutch, to remark that this persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not always extended to their persons, especially among the lower orders, who indeed are not more cleanly than the same class in England. Goldsmith, who knew the country and people from a residence among them, declares that a Dutchman’s house reminded him of a temple dedicated to an ox. One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuur Stoof, a square box, open on one side to admit an earthern pan filled with hot embers of turfj and perforated at the top to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet: it serves as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed with, whatever be the season, in doors or out; the citizen’s wife has it carried after her by her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots may be seen piled up in the aisles of the churches. To announce that sickness is in a house, the knocker is not tied up as with us, but a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid’s health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing, and the chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enckhuysen, when there is a “lady in the straw,” a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed at the door: the sex of the infant is marked by the polour; if a boy red, if a girl white. The house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabitants has been increased by a birth, enjoys byHolland. 16. MUSIC. 21 ancient law and custom various immunities and privileges. For a certain number of days, nothing which is likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it: it is protected from legal executions; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates; no soldiers can be billeted in it; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of corn, bits of silk and tinsel hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized as a delicacy by the Dutch. Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, a long crape hat-band, and a short cloak: he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the deceased. The stranger, on first arriving in Holland, is liable to be roused out of his slumbers at night by a strange clatter in the streets. This is nothing more than the clapper of the Dutch watchman, a wooden board with a flexible hammer or tongue attached to it, which he strikes from time to time to give Warning to all thieves to get out of his way. The Kirmess (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibts many peculiarities of character. The servant girls, when being hired, always stipulate with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kirmess-days. They swarm at these festivals in company with their “ sweetheartsindeed, sweethearts are regularly hired for these occasions, so that the damsels who have not one for love may have him for money. The Stork.— One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the inhabitants. These birds are not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contrivance is often placed on the house-top for their use : if not expressly to invite them td settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, attracted by the warmth of the fire, would naturally deposit the materials of its nest on the chimney-top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a chimney ; it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork select it for its habitation ; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern climate about the middle of August, taking with them the young brood which they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, in 1536, destroyed a large part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bear- ing away their young ones from their nest through the midst of the flames, and, where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. Nightingales, and singing birds in general, are also protected from molesta- tion in Holland ; and bird-nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the wood, is severely punished by local laws. 16. MUSIC. “ The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. National melody and native composition seem alike to have disappeared from the country. The operatic theatres at Amsterdam and the Hague are principally occupied (when open) by third-rate German, French, and Italian companies, which may be also met with in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those who are “ curious in organs ” will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clock-17. AGRICULTURE. Sect. X 22 work sheep in Mynheer’s pleasure garden, has indulged itself, with more dig* nity, in commissioning for the churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the -variety of their component parts. If Holland cannot be said to have possessed a school of organ builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Al- satian family of the Silbermanns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Muller of Amsterdam (the builder o'f the Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gouda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Leeuwarden, Beverwyk, and Nymegen), are all worthy of attention. There are many treatises on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem gene- rally in no respect worthy of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have heard in no other place.” — H. F. C. 17. AGRICULTURE, Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soils of Holland the agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort to many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers, therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much deserving of their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands are here pointed out. Those who wish for further information on these subjects may consult the following works, from which these observations are extracted: — On the Agriculture of the Netherlands, Agric. Journal, vol. ii. pp. 43—64.; vol. iii. 240—263. Outlines of^ Flemish Husbandry ; Library of Useful Know- ledge. British Husbandry, voL iii. The climate of the Netherlands from the borders of France to the northern part of Holland along the coast, and for 50 or 60 miles inland, differs little from that of Kent or Essex. It is warmer in summer and Colder in winter than the central part of England. The quantity of rain which falls there is not so great, especially in winter, as in those parts of England which lie on the opposite coast; but the snow covers the ground for a much longer time. Hence a .ma- terial difference exists in the time of ploughing and sowing. The quality of the soil is various. Towards the northern part of Flanders and Antwerp, and the southern part of Holland, it is almost as barren as the sand of the sea-shore. If it were not for a small portion of mud occasionally mixed with this soil, the water would freely percolate through it, and no vegetation could be supported. In proportion to the quantity of the mud, which is a very fine clay, with a portion of decayed shells and organic matter, the soil is more or less fertile ; and when the mud enters largely into it, a rich compact loam is formed. In many places there are alternate narrow strata of sand and loam, which being mixed together form a very productive soil. When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious process to bring the land into cultivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie between Antwerp and the Maes remain in a state of nature, producing nothing but scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some spots have been brought under cultivation by the most indefatigable industry. By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful addition of manure, both solid and liquid ; and by first sowing such plants as will grow on this barren soil, a stratum of productive soil is gradually collected. If manure cannot be had, broom is first sown. This grows on the most barren soils ; in three years it is cut for fagots for the bakers and brickmakers. It has somewhat improved the soil, which is next sown with buckwheat, or even with rye. After this, clover and potatoes follow; and these' crops furnishing manure,Holland. 17. AGRICULTURE* improvement goes on rapidly. If about 20 small cart-loads of dung can be brought on each acrfe of the newly*trenched ground, the progress is'much more rapid. Potatoes are then the first crop. Then follows rye, after the land has been manured to the same extent as before. In this closer is sown in the sue* ceeding spring. After rye comes buckwheat, without any manure; then po- tatoes again, manured as at first; and the same rotation of crops follows. It is evident how important a good supply of manure is to success in culti- vating such land. The most rapid, improver of loose sands is liquid manure. Accordingly, the greatest attention is paid to the collection and preparation of manure, more especially of liquid manure. Every farm has one or more capa- cious tank, whose construction will be found worthy of the attention of the agriculturist. The instruments of tillage are few and simple, especially the ploughs, which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instrument, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, without too much compressing them. A rodded hurdle is also used for the same purpose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set- at an acute angle forwards. The moUebart, which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch: it is a very’ large wooden shovel, in form like a housemaid’s dust-pan, with a stout long handle. To fully understand itsUse, it must be seen worked by a skilful hand. The spade and shovel are also largely used in the tillage of the Netherlands/ Considerable attention is paid in the Netherlands, but especially in Flanders, to a proper rotation of crops. The rotations observed are founded on long experience. Manure, both solid and liquid, is applied constantly to the soil in great abundance. It is by this means that the character of the poor soils becomes in a few years entirely changed. Great attention is paid to the choice of seed. The quantity of seed on a given extent of land in the Netherlands is much smaller than it usually is in England. This is owing to the greater attention paid to prepare the land for receiving the seed. The surface is brought to a finer tilth, by repeated harrowing with light wooden harrows. Mixed seed is sometimes sown, as a mixture of wheat and rye, which, indeed, is known in Yorkshire, where it is called meslin. In Flanders it is called meteil. The sowing of carrots amongst a growing crop is peculiar to the Netherlands. The Friesland oats are well known in England as of a very good quality for brewing, and great crops of them are raised in the rich alluvial soils of Holland. Chiccory is much cultivated, the dried roots of which are roasted and used instead of coffee. The root contains a strong bitter, and is used instead of hops in beer. It is sown about the beginning of April, and the roots are taken up in September, and are then of the size of a small carrot. The leaves, if eaten by cows, give a bad taste to their milk. Flax, hemp, and the oily seeds, especially colza or rape, are also extensively cultivated in the Netherlands. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported, and its value in foreign markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well conducted. The rich soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter; but this is not the only cause of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanliness of every paTt of a dairy, and its furniture, show the unremitted attention of the dairywoman. Besides this, the stables, the cows, and even the litter, are kept so clean, that it is a pleasure to walk through them ; and the family often make one end of the cow-house their usual sitting- room, having a fire-place at one end, and always at least one comfortable bed for a labourer or servant, who always sleeps in the cow-house. The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows : —The building is generally like a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some-24 17. AGRICULTURE. Sect. I. times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which make it warm in winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad, paved with hard bricks. The heads of the cows are placed towards this middle space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow in the middle; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows stand, their tails hang over a gutter to receive the dung and urine. The cleanliness is'cariied to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and lines over them, with a weight at one end ; the other being fastened to the end of the tail of a cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either carried in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the litter of the horses into compost. The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and are put out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their loins, and tied round their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs; when the air is warmer, this is discontinued. The milk room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the evaporation keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow-house in large brass vessels in the shape of the Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, carry the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made: no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might be. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the pas- tures are not so rich, this colour is sometimes given artificially, but the natural colour cannot be imitated so as to deceive any but the inexperienced. The best Dutch cheese is.a new milk cheese made near Gouda, and called Gouda cheese. The little round cheeses are made near Edam. Some of the cream has been subtracted and made into butter, and the cheese is what would be called half-meal cheese in England. It is very strongly salted by soaking it in brine. The common skim-milk cheeses have seeds of cummin mixed with the curd, and are made of the size of our Cheshire cheeses. It is a poor cheese, and seldom exported. Very large oxen are fatted in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They have large bones, and are deficient.in some points considered essential by the feeder for a cattle show; but the chief object of tlie breed is milk. The meat is excellent. The sheep of the Netherlands are almost universally large, long legged animals, with dropping ears, which have nothing but their size to recommend them. The horses in the Netherlands may be divided into two distinct breeds,— the heavy Flanders horses, which are cither light chesnut coloured, with white tails and manes; or roan. They are bulky a'nd inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk punch, which breed, no doubt, came originally from Flanders, but has been improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some of them are very strong and active, and will do much work and draw very heavy loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by trotting matches. The Dutch waggons are light, with a very narrow track, to accommodate them to the narrow roads on the tops of the dykes. A pole would be a great incum- brance in turning within a very narrow space; hence a curious substitute hasHolland. ROUTE 1.—THE MAAS. BRIELLE. been adopted. A very short crooked pole rises in front, and the driver directs it with his foot. A person unaccustomed to its use could never drive a. Dutch waggon, which requires great skill and judgment to steer it. A drunken driver is discovered a long way off by the oscillations of his waggon, which frequently Tuns off the dyke, and is overturned into the ditch on either side, the horses Having no power to keep it straight when the crooked pole has not a steady foot to guide the front wheels. The Dutchmen usually make their horses trot in the waggon when not heavily loaded. ROUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO ROTTZKDAM. Steamers 3 times a week in summer. The General Steam Navigation Com- pany’s vessels run from Brunswick Wharf, Blackwall, at 10 precisely, every Wednesday and Saturday, re- turning also on those days. There is also another steamer on the same, days from off the Tower. The Batavier goes every Sunday, and returns from Rotterdam on Tuesday. The average passage is from 24 to 30 hours, and the vessel usually reaches the bar at the mouth of the Maas in 24. The Maas (French Meuse) is the estuary through which a large portion of the combined waters of the Rhine and Meuse find an outlet to the sea. The bar at its mouth is at times diffi- cult to pass; at low tide there is but 7 feet water upon it. The first ap- pearahee of Holland exhibits nothing but a strip of land, on each side lite- rally “ a willow-tufted bank,” barely raised above the water. The low sandy mud bank projecting into the sea on your left as you enter the Maas is called the Hoek van Hol- land. 1. The small fortified town of Brielle, on the left bank of the river (right hand in ascending), soon appears in sight. Here custom-house officers come on board to fasten down the hold of the vessel, and to examine the ship’s papers. There is a ferry over the Maas at this place, and the pilots, who carry vessels up the river, reside here. It was the birthplace of Admirals Tromp and de Witt, and is historically re- markable as the first place which fell into the hands of the Dutch ; having been taken from the Spaniards, 1572, by a bold attack of the Water Gueusen, under the command of William de la Marck, who had been expelled from the ports of England by Queen Eliza- beth. It may thus be considered as the nucleus of the Republic of Hol- land. This exploit was the first in- stance of open resistance to the power of Philip II. of Spain, and led the way for the liberation of the country from the Spanish yoke. In 1585, Brielle was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth as one of the cautionary towns, and re- mained in the hands of the English till 1616. About 5 miles above Brielle is the entrance to the New Canal, crossing the island of Voorn, by which large vessels pass from the Maas to the spa- cious harbour of Helvoetsluys, and avoid the dangerous navigation arising from the bar at the mouth of the Maas. The largest Indiamen reach the sea in one day from Rotterdam. At Hel- voetsluys is a royal dock and arsenal. It is the principal naval station of the Dutch on the south, being to Rotter- dam and the mouths of the Rhine and Maas what the Helder is to Amster- dam and the Zuyder-Zee. William III. embarked there for England in 1688. rt. Higher up is Vlaardingen, the head-quarters of the Dutch Herring Fishery, for which it fits out annually from 80 to 100 vessels; the total num- ber from the whole of Holland in the present reduced state of the fisheries falls short of 200. On the 10th or C26 Sect. I. ROUTE 1.—BOOMPJES. ROTTERDAM. 11th of June, the officers employed in the herring fleet repair to the Stadhuis, .and take an oath to obey the laws of the fishery: on the 14th they hoist their flags, and go to church to pray for a prosperous season; on the 15th they set sail, and the day is kept as a holiday by the townspeople. The fishery lasts from June 2. till October 30. The fish first caught are sent off in swift sailing yachts to Holland, where their arrival is awaited with the most anxious expectation. Watchmen are set on Vlaardingen steeple to look out for the vessel; the cargo usually sells for 800 florins, and the first kegs of herrings are sent to the king of Holland and his ministers. Still nearer to Rotterdam, though not at the river side, is Schiedam (12,000 inhab.), famous fbr its distilleries of the finest Geneva, of which there are not less than 100 in this small town; 30,000 pigs are said to be fed on the refuse grain after the spirit has been extracted. The town, surrounded by windmills, is never free from the smoke issuing from its numerous tall chimneys. At a turn of the river, Rotterdam comes suddenly into sight. The Maas in front of the town is from 30 to 40 ft. deep, so that the largest India vessels approach close to the houses, and the steamers land their passengers on the fine quay called the Boompjes, extend- ing along the river a mile and a quar- ter. It is shaded with a line of vigor- ous elms, planted 1615, from which it gets its name (little trees is the meaning of the word; though, since the name was conferred, they have grown to a large size). -It may, perhaps, recall to mind Cheyney Walk, at Chelsea, though on a larger scale, with the advantage of having deep water close in shore. It forms a much frequented promenade for the inhabit- ants of Rotterdam. Some of the best houses and principal inns are situated on this handsome quay. Here also is the Custom House to which the bag- gage of travellers is conveyed (§ 3.), but the examination is Dot usually very troublesome. Rotterdam.—Inns : Hotel des Pays- Bas :—beds, 1 gr. to 1 gr. 10 st.; breakfast or tea, with bread and butter, 14 st.; fable d’hote, 1 gr. 10 st. ; dinner in private, 2jgr. to 3 gr. New Bath Hotel charges nearly the same as Pays Bas.—H. del'Europe.—These three are on the Quai, called the Boompjes, near the steamers. Scheppershuis, Spaan- sche Kade; — Zwynshoofd, on the great market; — St. Lucas. Rotterdam, the second city of Hol- land in population and commerce, lies on the right bank of the Maas ; it has 78,000 inhab., and is distant about 24 miles from the sea. It is built in the form of a triangle, one side of which rests on the Maas; it consists of as many canals as streets; the three prin- cipal ones called Leuve, Oude, and Nieuwe havens (harbours), open into the Maas, and communicate with the various canals which intersect the town; thus not only affording a con- stant supply of water to the canals, but, by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, keeping up a circulation, and preserving the water from becoming stagnant and putrid; the tide rises commonly 10 or 12. ft. The communication between differ- ent parts of the town is maintained by a great number of drawbridges. sus- pended by heavy beams of wood over- head ; but across several of the havens, which are too wide for a drawbridge, a ferry boat plies (and 1 cent is charged for the passage). The canals serve as docks, being deep enough to admit vessels of large burden close to the doors of the houses and magazines: of their owners, so that they can discharge their cargoes with little trouble and cost. Its ready access to the sea gives Rotterdam a great advantage as a port; and since the separation from Belgium, it has been rapidly rising in wealth and population, at the expense, of its rival, Antwerp. Indeed, since steam has aided inland navigation, the position of Rotterdam has become superior to that of Amsterdam, and it and Hamburg now form the great inlets and outlets of Germany. The foreign commerce of Rotterdam now chiefly depends on the connection with■Holland. ROUTE 1.—ROTTERDAM. 27 Batavia, and that trade at present em- ploys about 80 of the finest merchant ships in the world, of the burden of from 500 to 1000 tons. They are admirably equipped, and make the voyage to and from India in 9 months upon the average. An increasing trade is carried on in the valuable product tions of the East, the chief of which are sugar, coffee, and spices. The West India trade, formerly carried on with -Surinam, is almost extinct. The trade in provisions is very great: much com is brought down the Rhine from the interior of Germany ; and from the upper parts contiguous to that river a vast supply of timber for ship building is conveyed. This is an important branch of industry, at present very flourishing, as near 100 of the best class of vessels are now building in the different dock-yards. A stranger who has never seen a Dutch town before, will find more amusement iu merely walking through the streets than in any of the sights which guide-books are usually- con- tented to enumerate. He will be struck with the novel and picturesque combination of water, bridges, -trees, and shipping, in the heart of a city. He will remark the quaint buildings with gables facing the street, and often overhanging the foundation more than a foot;—-the canals traversed by innu- merable drawbridges opening and shut- ting to allow the passage of vessels, the carts running upon sledges instead of wheels, with barrels of water placed in front, which is jerked out through several small holes, so as to sprinkle the pavement as the horse moves on, and diminish the friction. The shoes of the horses, which it is not improbable he may compare to pattens; the wooden sabots of the peasants; the brass milk- pails, glistening like polished armour ; the little mirror fastened before the window of every house (§ 15.), and the rude busts of Turks’ or Moors’ heads in front of the chemists’ shops, called from their open mouths Gapers, are all novelties not to be met with in his own country. L An enormous dyke or dam, erected at the junction of a small stream called the Rotte with the Maas, whence comes the name Rotterdam, passes through the centre of the town. It originally protected the country be- hind it from inundations during high tides of the Maas. The Hoog Straat (High Street) stands upon this dam; and the newest part of the town is built on the ground extending between it and the Boompjes, and gained from the Maas since the dam was erected. * The objects worthy of observation are : The statue of Erasmus, who was a native of this place. It is of bronze, and stands on a wide bridge over a canal, which serves the purposes of a market-place, called the Grote Mar- ket, near the centre of the town. Eras- mus’s real name was Gerrit Gerritz, which, in accordance with tHfe custom of the learned of his time, he translated into Desiderius Erasmus. The house in which he was bom (1467) still exists ; it is turned into a gin-shop, and is situated in the Breede Kerk Straat, leading to the Great Church. It bears a small statue of the scholar, with the inscription, “ Hsc est parva domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus.” The Great Church of St. Lawrence^ Groote Kerk, (built in 1472) of brick, contains the monuments of the Ad- mirals de Witt and Cortenaer, and Vice Admiral (Schoudtbijnacht) van Brakel, all erected to their memory by the States General, and bearing epi- taphs in old Dutch verse. The very fine Organ, according to some, is supe- rior in size and tone to that of Haar- lem, the largest metal pipe being 17 inches in diameter, and the number of stops 5084. The organist will play at any time in consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for the hour. They who do not intend to visit Haarlem will do well to hear this instrument. The ar- chitectural details of the church, though much mutilated, are fine, and, like almost all the great churches of Hol- land, have been too much neglected. In this and other Dutch churches it will be remarked that the coats of arms on the monuments are all defaced: this was the act of the French republicans28 ROUTE 1.--ROTTERDAM. Sect. I. during their occupation of Holland. The tower affords an extensive view of the country around, which, in the direc- tion of Delft and Gouda, as in many other parts of Holland, is almost equally divided between land and water. It is truly debateable ground — intersected in all directions by canals, and trees in straight avenues, its flat surface dotted with farm and sumiier-houses, while an occasional steeple and a number of windmills alone break the level line of a Dutch horizon. The other public buildings are, the Exchange, where business is transacted daily at 3 (scientific persons visiting Rotterdam should see the collection of philosophical instruments, and the ■library, in the room above it); — the Stadhuis, or Town Hall, a large new building with a Composite portico, — and the house formerly occupied by the East India Company, on the Boompjes, close to the Hotel des Pays-Bas, turned into warehouses since the company was broken up; but none of them deserve either minute description or examination. The phi- losopher Bayle, when exiled from Prance, ended his days here, in one of the houses on the Boompjes. The dock-yard is inferior to that of Amsterdam, and on a much smaller scale than similar establishments in England. It is shown to strangers on producing an order from a respectable householder. A relic is preserved here of the successful attack made by the Dutch upon the English fleet in the Medway, 1667, when they burnt the magazines at Chatham, along with several men-of-war. It is a portion of the stern of the Royal Charles, the admiral’s ship, which was captured by them. M. Nottebohn possesses an excellent private collection of the modern Dutch and Flemish schools. Half a day will suffice to see all that is remarkable in Rotterdam. There are so many English here, that the language is very generally spoken and understood. They have two churches; a Presbyterian church, which has existed more than two cen- turies, and an Episcopalian, on the E. side of the Haring-vliet, surmounted by the arms of Queen Anne and the Duke of Marlborough : thes?, though served by ministers from Great Britain, form part of the National Church establishment, the salaries being paid by the Dutch government. The Scotch Presbyterian church is on the Schottsche Dyk. The water of the Maas, jvbich is drunk here, will cause considerable an- noyance to persons unaccustomed to it: travellers should avoid it. (§ 6.) In the suburbs are many places of entertainment, with Gardens, not un- like tea-gardens in England, except that some of them are frequented by the higher classes of citizens, and par- take of the nature of a club. . Here are found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- grounds, refreshments of various kinds, and much smoking. There is a public walk outside the Ooster (eastern) gate, called Plantage, whence a good view is obtained of Rot- terdam. There are several Clubs here, where English as well as [continental news- papers are taken in; a stranger may be introduced by a member, and ge- nerally by the master of the hotel. This was the native place of Adrian van der Werf, van der Neer, Netscher, and Zachtleeven, painters, and of James Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles II. by Lucy Waters. The Post Office (het Postkantoor) is on the Wijnhaven, in the Wijnstraat. Curiosities from China and Japan may be purchased of De Groot, 342. Hoogstraat, opposite the Walloon chureh. Trekschuiten (§5.) start nearly every hour in the day, to Delft and the Hague: the fare to the Hague is 20 stivers.] Diligences — Daily to Utrecht. Ny- megen, Gouda, Antwerp, and Breda. Steamboats to Nymegen every morn- ing in summer; every other morning during’the rest of theTyear. Those of the New Dusseldorf Company are best. (See R. 12.) Steamers daily to Moerdyk in 3 hours ; to Middelburg, in Zealand, inHolland. route 2.—Rotterdam to delEt. churches. 29 9; twice a day to Dort; to Gouda and back daily; 6 times a month to Havre and Dunkirk ; to London every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday. To Antwerp daily, in 8 to 10 hours. (See R. 18.) To Bois le Due (Her- togenbosch) daily, in 8 hours. To Hull once a week. A steam ferry-boat plies across the Maas to Katendrecht every ^ hour, starting from a point a little below the town]: the fare is 15 cents. The island of Isselmonde, which here forms the 1. bank of the Maas, though but 15 m. long by 7 wide, is said to be sur- rounded . and intersected . by dykes measuring 200 m. in length. ROUTE 2. ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM, flY THE HAGUE, LEIDEN, AND HAARLEM. ---- RAILROAD. -(iJZERENSFOORWEG.) 5 trains a day ; to the Hague, 13 miles, in 45 min; to Amsterdam in 2^ hrs. Length of Railway from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 92,230 Engl, yards, or about 52$ Engl, miles. This railway, the first that was con- structed in Holland, is due to the en- terprise of a public company, called “ The Railway Company of Holland,” whose affairs are managed by a council of administration consisting of 5 com- missaries and the engineer. The dif- ficulties of construction arising from the peculiar physical character of the locality were the least that the com- pany had to contend against, owing to the hostility of the proprietors of the land. The company was formed on the 8th Aug. 1837, at Amsterdam, and the part between Haarlem and Amsterdam was opened 20th Sept. 1839. The engineer was the Che- valier F. W. Conrad, M. I. C. E. The gauge is 2 metres = 6$ft. Eng. from centre to centre of the rails, which rest upon longitudinal timber bearings, and the cost of each Eng. mile of single line of railway laid was 23944 10s. Trekschuiten to Delft in 2 hours. The old road to Delft is pleasantly varied with villas and gardens, and runs for a considerable distance along- side of the canal, as, indeed, is the case with most roads in Holland. Station. Schiedam. — The town is on the left, surrounded by windmills, and enveloped in everlasting smoke, rising firom its distilleries of gin (je- never, i. e. juniper). See p. 26. Stat. Delft. — Inn, Gouden Molen (Golden Mill). On the Schie, 8 m. from Rotterdam, 17,000 inhab.; and said to derive its name from delven, to dig. This town, “ the parent of pot- tery,” has been supplanted, even in Holland itself, in its chief article of produce, to which it has given a name (Delft-ware, in Dutch plateel), by the superior manufactures of England, and the improved taste introduced by Wedgwood in the making of pottery. All the earthenware now made here is of the coarser kind, and does not em- ploy more than 200 persons. The streets appear empty and dull, but there is enough to amuse a tra- veller for an hour or two. Pepys, in his Diary, 18th May, 1660, describes the sights of Delft: —“ To the church, where Van Trorap lies en- tombed, with a fine monument. His epitaph is concluded thus : — Tandem bello Anglico tantum non victor, certe' invictus, vivere et vincere desiit. There/ is a sea-fight cut in marble, with the smoke the best expressed that ever I saw in my life. From thence to the great church, that stands in a fine great market-place over against the Stadt-House]; and there I saw a stately tomb of the old Prince of Orange, of marble and brass, wherein, among other varieties, there are the angels with their trumpets, expressed as it were crying. Here were very fine organs in both the churches. It is a most sweet town, with bridges and a river in every street.” The New Church (b. 1381) in the great square contains the costly monu- ment, clustered with columns and rich in marble, but in very bad taste, erected by the United Provinces to the me- mory of William I., prince of Orange, who was assassinated at Delft, 10th July, 1584. His statue in marble, in c 330 BOUTE 2.-^ CHURCHES. Sect. I. lull armour, with sword and sceptre, reclines upon the tomb; and at his feet is the figure of his favourite little dog, whose affection saved his master’s life from the midnight attack of some Spanish assassins, who had planned to murder him while asleep in his camp, near Mechlin,. 1572. The Spaniards, advancing stealthily, under cover of the darkness, had nearly reached the tent, when the vigilance of the dog, whose instinct appears to have told him that they were ene- mies, detected their approach. He instantly jumped upon the bed, and, by barking violently, and tearing off the clothes with his teeth and feet, roused his master in time to enable him to escape. The faithful animal pined to death after his master’s de- cease. The inscription on the tomb makes mention of the dog's attachment. There is a second and better statue of the prince, under the arch at the head of the tomb, in a sitting posture. Beneath is the burial vault of the present royal family of Holland. Here also is the simple monument of Grotius, who was a native of Delft, and is interred in this church. This Church contains a fine organ. - In the Old Church (Oude Kerk), which has a leaning tower, is the mo- nument of Admiral Tromp, the ve- teran of 82 sea-fights, who conquered the English fleet under Blake, in the Downs, 1652; and afterwards sailed through the channel with a broom at his mast-head, to signify that he had swept the sea of the English. He was killed at last in an engagement re- presented in bas-relief on his tomb, between Schevening and the mouth of the Maas, in which the English were victorious. In the same church are buried Piet Hein, who from a fisher lad of Delfshaven rose to be admiral, captured the Spanish silver fleet, and died for his country; and Leeuwenhoek, the naturalist, also a native of Delft. The Grand Pen- sionary Heinsius, the friend and fel- low-councillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was also born here. The house in which William Prince of Orange was assassinated is nearly opposite to the west end of the Old Church; it is called the Pritusenhof, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the right leads to the spot where the murder was committed. The identical staircase which he was about to ascend after din- ner, and the passage where the mur- derer Balthazar Geraarts stood, — so near to his victim, that the pistol must almost have touched his body, — will assuredly be looked upon with interest by every traveller. An in- scription, on a stone let into the walk records the event; and 3 holes, bored in another stone below it, pass for the identical marks of the fatal bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (the daughter of Coligny, who had ;been murdered in a similar manner, and in her sight, at the St. Bartholomew massacre). The last words of the hero were, “ Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, ayez pitie de moi et de ce pauvre peuple!” In the month after his assassination the states of Holland met at Delft, and placed his son Maurice, then a youth of 17, at the head of affairs. On an island surrounded by canals, near the entrance of the town, is the State Arsenal of Holland, an extensive and gloomy building, looking like a fortress, and ornamented with the arms of the ancient Dutch republic. It was originally the Dutch East India House. Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the regicides, settled at Delft. They were seized in an alehouse here by Sir Geo. Downing, the English envoy at the Hague, sent to London and executed at Tyburn. Between Delft and the Hague (about 4J miles) the trekschuit will be found an agreeable and good conveyance. The canal from Delft to Leyden is by many considered as being the Fossa Corbulonis, and probably a part of the ancient excavation has been adopted. Corbulus employed his soldiers in ex- cavating this canal in order to unite the Rhine and the Maes. (Tacitus. Annal. 11. 20.)Holland, boute 2.—the hague. binnenhof. 31 The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, coun- try seats, and gardens (§ 13.), than oil the other side of Delft. On the left of the canal and high road, but on the right of the railroad, appears the spire of the church of Ryswyk, near which the famous treaty of peace was signed (1697) between England, France, Hol- land, Germany, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, now re- moved ; its site is marked by an obelisk. Stat. The Hague (La Haye, in French: S’Gravenhage in Dutch; Haag in German). Inns: — H6tel Bellevue, near the park, comfortable ; bed, 1 fl. 20 c., double-bedded room 2 fl.; dinner, 2 fl. ; tea, 60 c.; break- fast, 70 c.; wax lights, 40 c.; table- d’hote at 4. — Oude Doelen, comfort- able; Nieuwe Doelen, complaints of the attendance. ( Doel is the Dutch for the bull’s eye in the target, derived from times when archery was the favourite amusement, and the inn the place of resort for the various companies, or guilds of marksmen, when the contest was decided). Hotel de VEurope, in the Lange HOutstraat, close to the Museum: bed, 1 fl.; breakfast (with- out meat or eggs), 60 cts. Table d'hote, 11 fl. Marechal Turenne; Kei- zershof (Imperial Hotel); Twee Steden (Two Towns); Heerenlogement( Gentle- man’s Lodging). The population is 61,000. Though long the residence of the Stadholders, and now of the King of Holland, up to the beginning of'the present century, the Hague ranked only as a village, because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not re- turn members to the States General; Louis Buonaparte, however, during his rule, conferred on it the privileges of a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufac- tures ; this to the residence of a court, the presence of the Government and States General, and the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin may be traced to a hunting-seat of the Counts t>f Holland, built here in 1250; and its name, to the Counts' Hedge ( S' Graven Hage) surrounding their park. The principal streets are, the Voor- hout, lined with trees and bordered with splendid hotels; ' the Prinssen- gracht, Kneuterdyk, and Nocird Einde. The Vyverberg (hill of the fish-pond) is a square or place, with avenues of trees formitig a shady promenade o'n the One side, and a piece of water on the other. It is in Holland alone that so gentle a rise in the ground as is here perceptible would be dignified with the name of a hill. On the southern side of the Vyver- berg stands the Binnenhof, so called be- cause it formed the “ inner court ” of the Count’s Palace, an irregular build- ing of various dates. The' Gothic hall in the centre of it, now used for the drawing of the lottery (Lotery- zadV), and criminal court ( Hoog Geregt- shof) is the oldest building in the Hague, and the only remaining frag- ment of .the original palace of the Counts of Holland. It is a fine room, with a pointed roof, supported by a gothic framework of wood, somewhat in the style of that of Westminster Hall. It possesses some interest in an historical point of view; since, upon a scaffolding erected opposite to the door, on a level with the top of the stepq the virtuous and inflexible Barneveldt, Grand Pensionary of Holland, was beheaded in 1618, at the age of 72. This event is a stain on the character of Prince Maurice of Nassau; but it is not true, as some have asserted, that he looked on from a side window during his rival’s execution. The people be- held it with tears; many came to gather the sand wet with his blood, to keep it carefully iri phials; and the crowd of those who had the same cu- riosity continued next day, notwith- standing all they could do to hinder them. The Chambers of the States General or Dutch parliament, and se- veral of the public offices, are situated in the Binnenhof. The public are freely admitted to the debates of the second Chamber. Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vyverberg is ah old gate-tower, called Gevangepoort (pri- son gate), remarkable as the place in32 ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. Sect. I. which Cornells De Witt was confined, 1672, on a false charge of conspiring to assassinate the Prince of Orange. The populace, incited to fury by the calumnies circulated against him and his brother John, the Grand Pen- sionary, broke into the prison at a moment when the latter had been en- ticed hither by a report that his bro- ther’s life was in danger, dragged them forth, and literally tore them to pieces, with ferocity more befitting wild beasts than human beings. The State Prisons, besides the interest they possess from historical associations, are curious, on account of “ the tortures inflicted on the prisoners (within the last two cen- turies), not surpassed in cruelty even at Venice in its worst times: the rack, the pulley, the oubliettes, &c. are still shown.” I-. Fm, A few yards from the spot where the De Witts were murdered, jn the Kneuterdyk, oppo- site the Hartogstraatje, may be seen the modest mansion of the Grand Pensionary De Witt, who, though the first citizen of the richest country in the world, and perhaps the pro- foundest statesman in Europe, baffling the encroaching policy of France, and frightening London with the roar of his cannon in the Thames, was never seen in public but in the most homely dress, kept only a single ser- vant, and rarely made use of a coach. Barneveldt lived in a house which now forms part of the hotel of the Minister of Finance in the Lang Voorhout. The Picture Gallery and Museum are situated in the building called the Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was built. It is between the Plein and the Vyver. They are open to the public daily, except Sunday, from 9 to 3, on Saturday from 10£ to 1. The Picture Gallery is almost en- tirely confined to the works of Dutch masters, and contains some of their finest works. It is not possible to point out the rooms which contain the works here mentioned, as there is nothing to dis- tinguish the rooms. The numbers are those of 1848. The most remarkable pictures are, Paul Potter (123.) Young Bull,— his masterpiece, remarkable as one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life. “ There can- not be a greater contrast to a very ge- neralised mode of treatment than that displayed in the celebrated picture of ‘ The Bull,’ by P. Potter, which ap- proaches the nearest to deception of any really fine work of art I have seen- The painter seems to have omitted no- thing that he saw in nature which art could represent, and yet its reality is free from any still-life unpleasantness. It is admired for its truth, but to a cultivated eye it has that something more than mere truth that is indis- pensable to a work of art; it has great taste throughout,—displayed no less in the general arrangement of the masses and forms, than in the most minute particulars. The grandeur of the sky, and the beautiful treatment of the distant meadow, show that the painter had the power of seizing the finest cha- racteristics of the large features of na- ture, while the exquisite manner in which the beautiful forms of the leaves of a dock, and their colours, compose with one of the legs of the young bull, display as fine an eye for her most in- tricate beauties. Throughout the pic- ture, indeed, we see that the hand has been directed by the eye of a consum- mate artist, and not merely by a skilful copyist.”—Prof. Leslie, R. A. This pic- ture was carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by them Jburt/i in value of all the paintings then in the Louvre ; the Transfiguration, by Raphael, rank- ing first; and the Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, second; Ti- tian’s Peter Martyr, third. They who know those three great works will probably be startled at the place thus assigned to this picture. Paul Potter’s Bull has been valued at 50002. ; the Dutch government, it is stated, offered Napoleon 4 times that sum if he would consent to suffer it to remain at the Hague. — D. T. (124.) The Cow drinking; “ finely painted, remarkable for the strong reflection in the water.”Holland, route. 2.—the hague. museum of pictures. 33 R*— Rembrandt. (127.) A Surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his Pupils, proceeding to dissect a Dead Body. Though au unpleasing subject, it is a most wonderful painting, and one of the artist’s finest works. “ To avoid making it an object disagreeable to look at, the figure is but just cut at the wrist. There are seven other portraits, coloured like nature itself, fresh and highly finished; one of the figures behind has a paper in his hand, on which are written the names of the rest. Rembrandt has also added his own name, with the date, 1672. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. Nothing can be more truly the colour of dead flesh. The legs and feet, which are nearest the eye, are in shadow; the principal light, which is on the body, is by that means preserved of a compact form.” R. Physicians assert that they can ascertain that it is the body of a per- son who died from inflammation of the lungs. This picture formerly stood in the Anatomy School (Snij- kamer) of Amsterdam, but was pur- chased by the King for 32,000 guilders (2700/.) — (131.) Portrait of a young man with hat and feathers: “ for colouring and force nothing can exceed it.” R. —(128.) St. Simeon receiving the Infant Jesus in the Temple.—(129.) “A study of Su- sanna for a picture. It appears very extraordinary that Rembrandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill- favoured a figure; but his attention was principally directed to the colour- ing and effect, in which, it must be acknowledged, he has attained the highest degree of excellence.” R. — Rubens. His first wife, Catherine Brintes (135.), and his second wife, Helena Forman (136.): “both fine portraits; but the last by far the most beautiful and the best coloured.” R. — (137.) Portrait of his Con- fessor. — Van Dyk. (37.) Six por- * The quotations marked R. are derived from Sir Joshua Reynolds’ “ Tour in Holland and Flanders.”j traits of the Huygens family_____(40.) Portrait of Simon, a painter of Ant- werp. “ This is one of the very few pictures that can be seen of Van Dyk which is in perfect preservation; and, on examining it closely, it ap- peared to me a perfect pattern of portrait painting; every part is dis- tinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth of light: the colouring is per- fectly true to nature, though it has not the brilliant effect of sunshine such as is seen in Rubens’s wife: it is nature seen by common daylight." R.—(38, 39.) Two fine portraits, of a Gentle- man, and “ a Lady with a feather in her hand; ” R.: called, incorrectly, the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; from the coat of arms in the corner, they are probably either Dutch or Ger- man. — “A Virgin and Infant Christ, coloured in the manner of Rubens, so much so as to appear, at first sight, to be of his hand; but the character of the child shows it to be Van Dyk’s.” R. The only picture in the gallery answering to this description is one at- tributed (and to all appearance cor- rectly) to Murillo (223.) — Ferdinand Bol.—(17.) Portrait of Admiral de Ruyter. — Keyzer. (82.) Four Bur- gomasters of Amsterdam deliberating on the reception of Mary de’ Medici into their city. “ A very good picture.” — (81.) A small full-length of a Ma- gistrate in Black : excellent. — Gerard Douw. (35.) A Woman sitting near a window, with a child in a cradle; a very pleasing picture. — (36.) “ A woman with a light.” R.: very highly* finished. — Wouvermans. (188.) A Bat- tle piece. — (196.) “ The Hay Cart,” — and (195.) “The Manege:” three excellent specimensof this artist. “ Here are many of the best works of Wouver- mans, whose pictures are well worthy the attention and close examination of a painter. One of the most remarkable of them is known by the name of the Hay Cart: another, in which there is a coach and horses, is equally excellent. These pictures are in his three different manners: his middle manner is by much the best; the first and last have c 534 ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Sect. I. not that liquid softness which charac- terises his best works. Besides his great skill in colouring, his hprses are correctly drawn, very spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground. Upon the whole, he is one of the few painters whose ex- cellence, in his way, is such as leaves nothing to be wished for.” R. —Berg- hern. (12.) An Italian View.—(14.) Banditti robbing a Caravan: excellent. — Vanderwerf. (186.) The Flight into Egypt: “ one of his best." R. — “ Ter- burg. (169.) A Woman seated on the ground, leaning her elbow against a man's knee, and a trumpeter delivering a letter.” R.—Poussin. Venus asleep: a Satyr drawing off the drapery. R. The painting to which Sir Joshua al- ludes is probably (139.), described in the catalogue as the dream of Astolpho from Ariosto,-by one of Rubens’s scho- lars.—John Breughel. “ Two pictures of flowers and fruits, with animals ; one serves for a border to a bad portrait (?), the other .(26. called The Flight into Egypt) to a picture of Rottenhamer: the frames are much better than the pictures.” R. — (28.) Figures by Ru- bens. Paradise. The largest and best of Breughel’s pictures on this subject: see Kugler, § LVIII. 4. p. 302.— (95.) Metzu. Emblematical represent- ation of Justice. —(89.) Lingelbach. The Departure of Charles II. from Scheveningen for England in 1660. — (116, 117.) A. Van Ostade. “ The ex- terior and interior of a cottage.” — F. Mieris; (100.) Boy blowing bub- bles.— (98.) “ Dutch gallantry : a man pinching the ear of a dogv which lies on his mistress’s lap.” R. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his Wife;: — Van der Heist; (59.) Portrait of Paul Potter, taken a few days before his death.—Schalhen ; (146.) A Lady at her toilette. A beautiful candlelight effect.—(150.) Portrait of William III.—Jan Steen; (160.) The Mena- gerie, one of his best works. In the distance the house at Hondsholredijk. -‘-(157.) Human life: see Kugler, § LIII. 2. ; and other very good pic- tures.^— A. Van de Velde; (178.) The Seashore at Schevening, — Hoekgeest (a rare master): (62.) The tomb of William Prince of Orange in the New Church, Delft. “ It is painted in the manner of De Witt, but I think better.” R. — Teniers ; (168.) “ An alchemist.” —-(167.) “A kitchen.” jR.— Velasquez ; (225.) Portrait of a boy; said to be Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV. of Spain. — Unknown; (273.) Por- trait of the Emp. Charles V.; a sketch. — Vemet; (219.) A storm at sea. — Hondekoeter (64—67.) Sf Weenix (184, 185.); One or two admirable speci- mens of these masters, representing birds and game alive and dead. — Van Huissum; Fruit and flower pieces. (72,73.)—De Heem; “Fruit, done with the utmost perfection.” R. (56, 57.)— Snyders. — (153.) “ A large hunting piece, well painted, but it oc- cupies too much space. -His works, from the subjects, their size, and, we may add, from their being so common, seem to be better suited to a hall or ante-room, than any other place.” R. The landscape is by Rubens. Among the older pictures are, — by Albert Durer; Two portraits (202.) said to be of Laurence Coster, the inventor of printing, and (203.) P. Aretin.— Holbein; (210.) A small portrait of a man with a hawk; on it is written Robert Cheseman, 1533. “ Admirable for its truth and precision, and ex- tremely well coloured. The blue flat ground behind the head gives a general effect of dryness to the picture: had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait might have stood in compe- tition with the works of the best por- trait painters.” R. — (211.) Jane Sey- mour ; (209.) A portrait called Sir Thomas More; on it is the date 1542 : it is quite unlike Sir T. More, who was beheaded 6 July, 1535: <— fine portraits. The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a highly interesting Collection, is placed in the lower story of the Maurits Huis. Several apartments are occupied en- tirely with objects of curiosity from China and Japan, and rare productions brought from the Dutch colonies; one division is devoted to historical relics ofHolland, route 2. — the Hague. Japanese collection. 35 distinguished persons. Some of the most remarkable objects are here enu- merated. ■ Y The Costumes of China, illustrated by figures of persons of various ranks, in porcelain; as the Emperor, a Bonze or Priest, Mandarins, &c„ each in his peculiar dress. An immense variety of articles manufactured by the Chi- nese in porcelain. Figures and other objects elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of-pearl, and soap-stone, or steatite. A chess-board, differing but little from that of Europe; artioles in daily use amongst the Chinese, as, the chopsticks, which serve instead of knives and forks; the calculating table (swam- pon, or abacus), with which they cast accounts; specimens of visiting cards 2 feet square, &c.; and a view of the palace of the Emperor of China, at Pekin. The rarities from Japan are unique, as tlje Dutch are the only European nation admitted into that country, and have therefore alone opportunities for procuring curiosities. They give a most satisfactory insight into the manners and habits of that remote and highly civilised country. The value of this collection is increased by the extreme difficulty of bringing such objects to Europe; as the laws of the Japanese strictly prohibit their exportation, under pain of death. A plan of Jeddo, the metropolis 'of Japan, a city {it is said) of at least 2,000,000 inhabitants, and 20 leagues in circumference. A curious model, made by the Japanese with the most minute attention to details, of the island of Desima, the Dutch Fac- tory in Japan. Several hundred figures are introduced into it, giving a precise idea of the occupation of the people, the furniture of their houses, their dress, &c. — The Deities of China and Japan in porcelain, &c. A whole wardrobe of Japanese dresses, made of silks and other stuffs. A large collection of Japan ware, as boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c., of far finer workmanship and mdre elaborately painted than the ordinary specimens commonly met with in Europe. Ja- panese weapons, particularly various species of krits or dirks, and swords, of remarkably fine steel, which in temper are said to surpass any thing which Birmingham, or even Damascus, can produce. The Japanese are tremen- dously expert in the use of this their favourite weapon : with one blow they can sever a man's body in twain. The upper classes of society claim the pri- vilege of wearing two swords at once. The matchlock barrels deposited here are excellent in the quality of the steel, and in the beauty of the workmanship. Among the articles of military equip- ment is a coat of Japanese mail, with a steel visor formed into a grotesque face, and ornamented with mustachios of bristles and horns of brass. A Nori- mon, or Japanese palanquin; the needles and other apparatus with which the operation of acupuncture is performed by the Japanese physicians, are deserv- ing the attention of medical men. Many cases are entirely filled with dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and household utensils of savage nations,^ from various parts of the world. Here is a model of Fieschi’s infernal machine, and a Russian knout. Among the Historical Relics are the armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States General. The baton of Admiral Piet Hein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, with the marks of more than one bullet on it. The chairs of Jac- queline of Holland, and df Barneveldt, brought from his prison. The portrait and sword of Van Speyk, who blew up his vessel before Antwerp, 1831, and the chair on which General Chassd sat during the siege of the citndel. A por- tion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and waistcoat worn by William III. of England the 3 .last days of his life. A specimen of the beggar’s bowl {jatte de Gueux) which formed a part of the insignia of the confederate chiefs who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, worn by them along with a wallet, as symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), with which their enemies intended to have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, full of nails, each driven in by one of36 ROUTE 2.—THE HAGUE. ROYAL PALACE. PICTURES. ' Sect. L the confederates, when they swore to be faithful to one another, and steadfast in the enterprise. The dress of William Prince of Orange, on the day when he was murdered at Delft by Balthazar Gerards. It is a plain grey leathern doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced by the balls, and showing marks of the powder. By the side of it is the pistol used by the assassin, and two of the fatal bullets. A model of the .cabin in which Peter the Great resided while a ship-builder at Zaandam. — A large baby-house, fitted up to show the na- ture of a Dutch menage, intended by Peter as a present to his wife. Opposite to the Palace of the King of Holland, in the Noord Einde, is the new Palace, built by the late King (who died 17th March, 1849) when Prince of Orange. He was a liberal patron of the arts, and no traveller should omit seeing this very splendid collection, which includes the valuable pictures formerly in his Palace at Brus- sels. Easy admittance is obtained, by applying to the porter between 9 and 12 every day. During the King’s re- sidence, application should be made not later than 9, after which hour, the pri- vate apartments, where are the modern paintings, are closed to strangers. A fee is given to the keeper; 1 guilder will suffice for 1 or 2 persons: and a proportionate sum for a larger party. Against the screen, which encloses the garden >nd hothouses of the new Palace, is placed a spirited equestrian statue in bronze of William I. Prince of Orange, the first Stadtholder. It is by an amateur, Count de Nieuwkerke. The statue is awkwardly placed, just in front of the arch in the centre of the screen, and so close to it, that all pas- sage through the arch is prevented, yet the arch has an iron gate. The entrance to the picture gallery is under the tower which is just beyond this statue, in the direction of Scheveningen. Entering under this tower, a long Gothic cloister or corridor, hung chiefly with portraits, leads into a fine Gothic room, in which are the following excellent and inter- esting pictures (beginning on the left hand on entering, — the numbers are those of the catalogue, several copies of which may be found in the rooms): (22.) Q. Messys. The Virgin. —(1.) Van Eyck. The Annunciation, painted for Philip the Good___(2.) The Virgin of Lucca (166.) Van der Heist, a young man presenting his intended wife to his parents; a capital picture, remarkable for heads full of character and expres- sion, and for the execution of the surfaces of the different materials of the drape- ries.— (55.) J. Van Eyck. A falconer. —(29.) Bernard van Orley. The Virgin and Child. — (93.) G. Romano. Alex- ander the Great. —(17.) H. Mending. Baptism of Christ. — (4.) and (5.) Two paintings, formerly in the Hotel de Ville at Louvain, by an early mas- ter, Dierick Stuerbout (Dirk of Haar- lem), (1468). They represent an event which is said to have actually taken place at the Court of the Emp. Otho. A certain Count was accused by the Empress (a second Potiphar’s wife), of making improper advances towards her during the Emperor’s absence. In the one picture is seen the execution of the Count on this false charge; the other shows his wife kneeling before the Em- peror, with the head of her husband in one hand, proving his innocence by holding a red-hot iron in the other. They are both curious as an instance of the justification by fiery ordeal, and remarkable as works of art; for, in spite of the stiffness and leanness of the figures, the colouring is admirable, and the finish extreme--(16.) H. Memling. The Birth of St. John.— (165.) Lucas van Leyden. Descent from the Cross. ► —(40.) Adoration of the Magi.—(27.) (23.) (25. and 26.) (24.) Pictures re- presenting the History of Job, by Bernard van Orley. — (45.) Lambert Lombard (properly L. Suterman). The Chas- tisements of God. — (17 9.) H. Memling. An altar with shutters; The Adora- tion ; and portraits of the donors. — (20.) Q. Messys. Coronation of the Virgin, discovered 1792 walled up in the ch. of St. Donatus at Bruges. —• (43.) Lambert Lombard. A Vision.— (38.) J. de Mabuse. Life of St. Au- gustin. — (15.) H. Memling. A port- able altar piece, called that of CharlesHolland, route 2.—the hague. museum or pictures. 37 V., but which Juan II. gave to the Carthusian convent of Miraflores, near Burgos. It was carried off by the French. (See its history in Sir E. Head's Handbook of Spanish Painting, p. 30.) — (44.) Li Lombard. Passage of the Red Sea.—(21.) Q. Messgs. Head of Christ. In the fine Gothic hall, which is entered by steps from that just de- scribed, the following are the finest pictures. (Begin on the left hand on entering.) (95.) Bronzino. Son of Cosmo de Medici. — ( .) and (169.) Rembrandt. A Jew and Jewess. — (172.) Rubens. Maria de' Medici.— Above are (51.), (52.), (53.), and (54.), copies by Michael Coxie of part of the famous altar-piece for the cathedral at Ghent: here are the Hermits, the Pilgrims, the Soldiers, and the Judges. Other parts of these copies are at Ber- lin, and 2 are at Munich. — (14.) H. Mending. St. Luke. —(114.) Seb. del Piombo. A Lady of the Medici Fa- mily.—(94.) A. dd Sarto. Holy Fa- mily.— (88.~) P. Perugino. Virgin and Saints. —(186.) Luini. The Virgin and Child, St. Sebastian, and S. Roque; very fine. — (96.) Moroni. Portrait of a Portuguese Officer. — (90.) Raphael. La Vierge aux Palmier.— (66.) and (65.) Vandyk. Whole-length portraits of Philippe le Roy, Seigneur de Ra- vels, and his Wife. — (85.) L. da Vinci. La Colombine. — (165.) S. del Piombo. Entombment. — (136.) Luini. St. Catherine and Angels. — (184.) Gior- gione. Three Portraits.—(92.) Raphael. Portrait of Francesco Penni.—(28.) Holbein. Portrait of a Lady with a Cat. — (77.)and(76.) Rembrandt. Two magnificent Portraits, a Man and a Boy, and a Woman and a Child, of the family of Pellicorne. — (155.) Alb. Hiirer. St. Hubert. — (41-) Martin Schon. Death of the Virgin. — (6.) and (7.) H. Mending. Pictures of scenes from the life of St. Bertin : they adorned his shrine at St. Omer.—(60.) Rubens. Delivery of the Keys to St. Peter. — (120.) and (121.) Velazquez. Two admirable whole-length Portraits of Philip IV. of Spain, and his Mi- nister Olivarez. — (62.) Rubens. Tri- bute Money. — (35.) and (36.) J. do Mabuse. St. John the Baptist and St. Peter.—(8.), (9.), (10.), (11.) H. Mending. Saints. — (175.) Rubens- Portrait of the Archduke Albert.____ (126.) Murillo. The Immaculate Con- ception. — (176.) Archduchess Isa- bella. — (164.) Rubens. Portrait of Baron Huy de Vic-------(98.) Titian. Supper at Emmaus______(91.) Portrait of .Clement Marot. —(80.) RuysdaeU Landscape. The Hall is splendidly furnished, in old style; two rich candelabras of bronze and cut glass do credit to the manufactures of Maestricht. In the Corridor connecting the hall with the inner rooms, are displayed, under glass, several hundred drawings by the old masters of great price; partly derived from the collection of the late Sir Thomas Lawrence, unhappily permitted to pass out of England. The studies of Michael Angelo, for the Last Judgment; of Da Vinci, for the Last Supper ; of Raphael, Correggio, And. Del Sarto, Giulio Ro- mano, and Rubens,' deserve special attention. There are besides (42.) Holbein. Sir T. Moore. — (101.) Palma Vecchio. Holy Family.—(133.) Velazquez. Spanish Lady. — (139.) Titian. Council of Trent. In a saloon beyond this gallery are fine landscapes by Ruysdael and Both ; Titians daughter. The collection of modern Dutch and Flemish paintings includes the finest specimens of living artists: here are Dykman's (of Antwerp) Market; very fine. — Schelfhout. View of Haarlem. — Koeheck. Large Landscape. — Schotel. Sea piece. — Gudin. View in Algeria—Wapper’s Louis XI.— Gallait. Abdication of Charles V. ; repetition of a larger picture. — Ver- boekhoven. A cattle-shed with sheep. — Ommegank. A landscape. The Royal Library in the Voorhout consists of about 100,000 vols., open to the public on Mon., Wed., and Fri. Here may be seen the prayer-books of Catherine de* Medici and Catherine of Arragon, and a Bible presented to William and Mary of England at38" ROUTE 2.—THE HAGUE. BOSCH. Sect. I. their coronation, with these words in the title-page, in the Queen’s own hand, “ This book was given the king and I at out crownation. Marie R.” Among the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of Utrecht, the original is in the Archives. The collection of medals (to the number of 33,600) and of gems in the same building is very extensive and rich. There are 300 cameos, the greater part antique; among them, the Apotheosis of Claudius, one of the largest known, and of fine workman- ship. Among the modern cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is very fine. The lover of the fine arts ought not to quit the Hague without visiting the Private Cabinets of M. van Nagel, which includes a fine Cuyp, a Calm at Sea; two good Wouvermans; and a spirited Teniers: — that of M. Osthuis, and that of M. Steengracht, on the Vyverberg, which contains fine works of Teniers, Jan Steen, Mieris, Van der Velde, Metzu, Backhuysen, Rembrandt; 2 portraits by Van der Heist, 2 by C. Netscher, a Paul Potter, 2 portraits by Gerard Dow, a De Hooghe ; and in the first room are some good modern Dutch pictures. The cabinet of the Baron de Westreenen de Tiellandt contains, besides a fine collection of coins and antiquities, several works of early art. There are specimens of Byzantine art, and works of Cimabue, Giotto, Duccio, Ambrogio Lauratti, J. van Eyck, and of the early schools of Florence, Pisa, and Sienna. The house is on the Princessen Gracht. A bronze statue, of William I., Prince of Orange, stands in the middle ©f the Plein. His faithful dog bears him company (see Delft, p. 26.) It was' erected in 1848, and is by M. Royer. Huygens, the inventor of the pen- dulum clock, and- William III. of England, were natives of the Hague. . A number of tame storks may be seen stalking about in the Fish Market, wbere a small house like a dog-kennel has been built for them. They are kept at the public expense for the same reason that bears are kept at Berne, and eagles at Geneva: because the arms of the Hague are a stork. In the Theatre (Schouwburg, at the angle of the Wyde Voorhout) French pieces are performed 3 times a week, and Dutch twice; German are given but rarely. The Post Office (Postkantoor) is in the place adjoining the Stadhuis and the Groote Kerk. There is a brass-cannon foundery at the Hague, opposite the Malic Baan, At Boer's shop, Scheveninger Straat, Chinese and Japanese curiosities may be purchased. At Enthoven's An~ tiquity shop, ladies will find a large collection of old lace, porcelain,> &c. — H. M. At the Hague the'water is more stagnant than in almost any other part of Holland. Though so near the sea, the canals and streams do not empty themselves into it; on the contrary, flow horn it. By the’side of the road* near Scheveningen, a tall windmill is seen on a height with another below it. These raise up water from the Dunes, and convey it to the Vyver-. berg, whose stagnant water it dis- places into the canals, and, at last, effecting a feeble current through the Hague, pushes out a portion into the canal leading to Delft. From Delft the water barely flows to the borders of the Meuse, above Rotterdam, where it is pumped up and discharged into that river. This may be well seen in a clear day from the top of St. James's church. On the outskirts of the town, about a mile distant, at the side of the road to Haarlem, lies the palace called the House in the Wood (’T Huis in ’t Bosch). The billiard-room is hung round-with family portraits; among them the Governor of Friesland by Van Dyk, and the children of Charles I. by Netscher. The great hall, called Oranje Zaal (Orange Hall), was built by a princess of Solms, grandmother of : our William -III., and decorated with paintings in honour of her hus- band, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. “ It is painted on every side,Holland. ROUTE 2.—THE HAGUE-. SCHEVENINGEN. and every recess and comer has some allegorical story by Jordaens, Van Tulden, Lievens, or Hondthorst. The different hands that have been here employed make variety, it is true, but it is variety of wretchedness. A triumphal entry, by Jordaens, is the best, and this is but a confused business: the only part which deserves any commendation is the four horses of the chariot, which are well painted. It is remarkable that the foremost leg of each horse is raised, which gives them the formality of trained soldiers.” —R. “ The picture no doubt dis- plays much bad taste and bad drawing; but there are specimens of colouring in it, which have all the brilliant trans- parency of Rubens; for instance, the group of female prisoners, and that of Venus and her nymphs.”—-W.M.T. The apartments which surround this hall were added afterwards. Some of the rooms are hung with Chinese silk. " The Bosch, or Wood, a beautiful park, nearly 2 miles long, abounds in fine forest trees, and is one of the few spots in Holland where they are allowed to grow as nature intended them, undipped, untrained, and in all their natural luxuriance of spreading branches. The number of paths, the varied nature of the ground, the fine sheets of water, and the refreshing shade, render this a very agreeable walk. Scheveningen, about 3 m.' from the Hague, on the sea-shore, is a fishing village of 3000 inliab. The road thither passes through a long avenue of trees. A little to the left of the road is Sorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Jacob Cats : a stone tablet at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is shown in the garden. The costume worn by the fishwives of Scheveningen is not a little singular; the bonnet can be compared to nothing so appropriately as a coal-scuttle. The fishermen convey their fish to the Hague in carts drawn by dogs; in returning the master supplies the place of the fish, and may be seen, to use a traveller. ROUTE 5. AMSTERDAM, BY UTRECHT AND ARNI-IEM (railway), TO NYMEGEN. Amsterdam to Utrecht 23 miles; to Arnhem 56 miles. Arnhem to Nymegen. 2 Posts = 9| Eng. miles. Railway.— Amsterdam to Utrecht. Trains 3 or 4 times a-day, in 1 hour to Utrecht. Stations, Abcoude, Vree- land, Nieuwersluis, Breukelen, Maar- n. Terminus at Amsterdam outside the YVeesper gate. The immediate neighbourhood of Amsterdam may be said to consist of an aggregation of polders. (§ 11.) The most remarkable is that called the Die- mer Meer, one of the deepest of those drained lakes in all Holland : its bottom lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, which is sometimes augmented to 30, at very high tides. The country through which the rail- road passes is not very interesting. Both sides of the old road and of the river Vecht, between Nieuwersluis and Utrecht, are lined with villas, summer- houses, and gardens (§ 13.), belonging principally to merchants of Amsterdam. It is almost an uninterrupted garden all the way, and the taste of the ‘Dutch for horticulture is here seen to per- fection. Several very pretty villages are passed; the most remarkable are Abcoude, Loenen, Breukelen, Maarsen, and Zuilen. . On approaching Utrecht there are various indications that the traveller is about to bid adieu to the flat land: the country presents partial undula- tions, and a slight current becomes perceptible in the canals. About 3 miles N. W. of Utrecht, on the Vecht, is the old castle of Zuylen, the resi- dence of Francis Borselen, to whom Jacqueline was married. Utrecht. — Inns : H. des Pays- Bas, excellent, one of the best inns in Holland :—’TKasteel van Antwerpen (Castle of Antwerp), on the Oude Gracht, good :—Bellevue: many dili- gences start from this house. Utrecht,74 ROUTE 5.—UTRECHT. STABHUIS. UNIVERSITY. Sect. I. called by the Romans Trajectum ad Rhenum (ford on the Rhine), and in monkish Latin, Ultra Trajectum, whence comes its modern name, is si- tuated at the bifurcation of the branch of the Rhine, called the Old Rhine, and the Vecht. It contains about 50,000 inhab. (20,000 R. Catholics). There is a considerable descent from the houses to the surface of the river — a circumstance which distinguishes this from other Dutch towns already described ; the cellars under the quays by the waterside are inhabited, and are large enough to serve as storehouses and manufactories. Before a great inundation, which occurred 839, the main stream of the Rhine, which was then turned into the Lek, flowed past Utrecht. In the S'tadhuia, built 1830, are a few very old pictures from suppressed convents, curious rather than beautiful; the best are by Schoreel. The Treaty of Utrecht (1713), which gave peace to Europe, by ending the war of the Spanish Succession, was signed at the residence of the Bishop of Oxford, the British Minister, in a house now pulled down, and replaced by a barrack called Willemskasern. Many of the preli- minary conferences were held in a back room of the old Stadhuis, still remain- ing. The act of confederation (1579), which formed the foundation of the freedom of Holland, and which de- clared the Seven United Provinces in- dependent of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall (auditorium) of the Uni- versity. An inscription intended for it ran thus : Atrium sapientice, incu- nabula libertatis. The tower of the Cathedral, 321 ft. high (b. 1382.), detached from the main building, has a very beautiful top story, and deserves to be ascended on account of the view from it, extending over almost all Holland, a part of Gueldres and North Brabant, and com- prehending, it is said, 20 large towns; among them Hertogenbosch, Rotter- dam, Oudewater, Montfort, Amster- ar.d the Lek. Midway in the steeple dam, the Zuider Zee, Amersfort, Rhee- nen, Breda, Gertruidenburg, Gouda, is the dwelling of the sexton, or koster. The nave of the church was thrown down by a storm in 1674, when the wind carried off the roof, and twisted the solid stone pillars like willow wands ; and the public street now passes over its site. The lofty choir is a fragment of a noble Gothic edi- fice; but it has suffered much from fanatic iconoclasts, and from modern pewing and high wood-work, in the conventicle style, which hide its beau- tiful clustered Gothic pillars, of great height and lightness. They have, too, been sadly cut away to admit the upper seats, which are arranged like those of a lecture theatre. It contains a monu- ment to Admiral van Gent, who fell in the fight of Solebay, 1672,'by Ver Hulst, and also a very large and very fine organ. The first Bp. of Utrecht was St. Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his own country, in the 7th cent., to convert the heathen Frisons, who then possessed the land.. He baptized many thousands of them; and the Pope or- dained him bishop over them ; while Charles Martel presented to him the castle of Utrecht for his residence, and the surrounding district for his see. The University, close to the Cathe- dral, founded in 1636, has about 450 students; and, as many of the Dutch aristocracy reside at Utrecht, the greater number of pupils are of the upper classes. There are collections of na- tural history, minerals, &c. belonging to it. The Mint of Holland is situated here. Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., was born at Utrecht, in a house still standing on the Oude Gracht: a house built by him still goes by the name of the Pope’s house, and now serves as the residence of the Governor. One of the latest improvements here has been the transformation of the ram- parts into Boulevards, so as to render them an agreeable promenade. The Mali, called Maliebaan, is an avenue of 8 rows of lime-trees, half a mile in length on the E. side of the city.Holland. ROUTE 5.—ZEIST. ARNHEM. 75 It is one of the finest in Europe, and was saved from being cut down by the express command of Louis XIV., at a time when his army spared nothing else in Holland. Travellers going to Ny- megen by the post road should -desire their drivers to pass through it, as it lies but a little way out of the direct road. The game of Pall Mall is still kept up. Utrecht is the head-quarters of the Jansenists, a sect of dissenters from the Roman Catholic church, who object to the bull of Pope Alexander VII., condemning as heretical certain doc- trines of Janseniiis, Bishop of Ypres. They scarcely exist in any number except in Holland, where they are now reduced to 5000. Utrecht is the see of their archbishop. Medical men will take an interest in a large collection of anatomical pre- parations, wax figures, &c., as it is one of the finest of the kind in Europe. Utrecht has some manufactories and bleaching grounds. The gates are shut at night, but admittance is obtained at any hour by paying about 2 pence. Omnibus to Vreeswyck (1 hr.), to meet the Rhine steamers, every Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat.; starts from M. de Groot’s Vreeburg. The hire of a carriage with 2 horses, td Rotterdam (Rt. 9.), 12 leagues, is 22 guilders; including tolls and fees to the driver. Railway, Utrecht to Arnhem in lj hr., 33 miles. The road proceeds for a considerable distance through a country abounding in wood. Many fine forest-trees are seen here, and scarcely anywhere else in Holland. Driebergen Station.— About 3 miles N. W. of this is Zeist (6 m. from Utrecht), remarkable for a Moravian colony settled in it, which deserves to be visited. The whole establishment is distinguished for the order and neat- ness maintained in it, and is supported by the manufactures of the brothers and sisters. On the N. of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of earth, erected, in 82 days by the French army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, on the occasion of Napoleon being made em- peror. The other stations are Maars- bergen, Veenendaal, Ede, Wolfhezen. Arnhem____Inns: The Sun, near the station, a new house commanding a fine view:—Zwijnshoofd ( Boar’s Head), kept by a German : — Gouden Arend (Golden Eagle), near the railway and the steamer:.— New Belvedere Hotel: — Cour de Hollande: — Hotel des Pays-Bas. Arnhem, chief town of Guelderland, on the r. bank of the Rhine, 3 m. be- low the point where the Yssel branches off from it, has 15,000 inhab. It was fortified by Coehorn: but the ramparts are now turned into walks. Sir Philip Sydney died here, Oct. 1586, of the wound received in battle near Zutplien : his wife had come over to soothe his dying hour. Though Arnhem itself has no attractions to detain the tra- veller, its neighbourhood abounds in villas, parks, and gardens; the finest being that of the Baron de Heeckeren, Hartgesberg : the entrance close to the railway station. The pleasure-grounds are fine, and the view from the Belve- dere tower striking. Further off, near the village of Velp (4 m. E. of Arn- hem) are several fine country seats, Biljoen, Beekhuisen, Roozendaal, Mid- dacht, Ridderoord, &c. to the gardens of which the public are allowed admit- tance. The finest view of Arnhem and the surrounding country is from the grounds of the country seat of the Baron van Brakell. Many of the grounds of the country seats are open but some have notices—only in Dutch —of man-traps and spring-guns. This part of Guelderland may, indeed, be termed “ the Dutch paradise; ” but its chief attractions, beside those which it derives from art, are, the abundance and purity of its flowing streams, to which the native of other provinces of Holland is a stranger, and the beauty of the trees. Diligences 4 times a-day to Nyme- gen ; daily to Deventer. The road to Nymegen crosses the Rhine by a float- ing bridge, and traverses the district called Over Betuwe (see p. 89.), pass- ing through the villages of Elden and Elst. At Lent, a small village on the76 ROUTE 5.—NYMEGEN. TOWN HALL. CHURCH. Sect, I. Waal, with a tolerable inn, opposite Nymegen, a flying bridge conveys car- riage and passengers across the Waal to— 2. Nymegen. — Inns .- None good, and all dear. H. des Pays-Bas, near the steam-boats, dear : Plaats ltoyal: Hotel de Francfort: Rotterdamer Wa- gen, near the Quai: most of the dili- gences start from this house. Nyme- gen is situated on the left bank of the Waal; it has 24,000 inhab. : the Ro- mans called it Noviomagus. It is a frontier fortress of Holland, strongly defended, and built on the side and slope of a hill called the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans formed a perma- nent camp to protect their Belgic pos- sessions from inroads of the Germans. As this is a frontier town, passports are taken from strangers on their arrival; and those who intend to set out early in the morning should take care to re- gain them overnight. The quay is separated from the town by a wall, and it is difficult to obtain an entrance at night after the gates are shut. The Town HaU (Raadhuis), a build- ing in the style of the Renaissance (1554), ornamented in front with 2 rows of statues of German emperors, benefactors of the town, is chiefly re- markable as the place where the Treaty of 1678, between Louis XIV., Charles II. of Spain, and the States of Holland, was signed. It contains portraits of the ambassadors upon this occasion, and a few Roman antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood, where the ground is constantly disclosing similar relics of the Roman settlement here. The sword with which the Counts Egmont and Horn were, beheaded is also shown here. The Church of St. Stephen, begun 1272, is an interesting Gothic building of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, and contains, in the centre of the an- cient choir, the monument of Catherine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of Eg- mont, Duke of Gueldres. Her effigy is engraved on a plate of copper, and upon smaller plates at the sides are figures of the Apostles and coats of Upon an elevation, which for Hol- land is considerable, stood the Castle of Valkenhof commonly called het Hof, said to have been built by Julius CiEsar, and inhabited afterwards by Charlemagne. It was demolished in 1794 by the French. The only parts now remaining are a fragment of the church and a very perfect circular Cha- pel or Baptistry near the brow of the hill: it is probably of the 12th or 13th century. The space of ground adjoin- ing it, once a part of the ramparts of the town, is planted with trees, and serves as a public walk, overlooking the river'and quay. On another emi- nence a little higher up rises the Bel- vedere, a lofty summer-house built by the town, on the foundation of a tower, said to be part of a chateau of the Duke of Alva, now converted into a cafe. The view from its top is pleasing, com- prehending the rivers which branch off at the head of the delta of the Rhine; viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the Yssel; with the Maas flowing on the south. This is the most interesting spot in Nymegen, and together with the few other sights may be seen in two hours. The views from Berg-en-dal, Beek, and Uphergen, in the neighbourhood, will also leave agreeable impressions. Nymegen remained long in the hands of the Spaniards : a bold attempt made in 1589 by Martin Schenk van Nijdek, a Guelderland nobleman, to surprise the town, failed, and he was drowned. His body, when found by the Spa- niards, was quartered and hung in chains to the principal gates, but was afterwards interred in the Great Church. One of these chains is preserved in the town hall. In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain Churchill of the grenadiers, serving under Turenne at the siege of Nyme- gen, attracting that great general’s praise by his bravery, was called by him the handsome Englishman. Diligences, 4 times a-day, in 2 hours to Arnhem (meeting the railway trains to Utrecht and Amsterdam) daily; the Hague, in 12 hours;. Cologne, by Cleves, in about 18 hours; and Dussel- dorf in 12 hours. Steamers to CologneHolland. route 7.—Amsterdam to groningen. 77 see Route 34.), and down the Rhine ( Route 12.), to Roterdam in 8 hours ; in summer daily, in winter, 3 times a-week. ROUTE 6. AMSTERDAM TO ARNHEM, BT AMERSFOORT. 12f Posts = 58£ Eng. miles. Diligence daily in 9 hours. Pass the Diemermeer polder (see R. 5.). Muiden. — When the forces of Louis XIV. had succeeded in taking Naarden, the Dutch let in the sea near this point, laid the whole country un- der water as far as Amsterdam, and thus effectually checked the advance of the invading army, and saved the Low Countries from subjugation. Mui- den commands the enormous sluice gates which have been erected since that event. The Dutch historian Hooft resided in the chateau. A short dis- tance S. of Muiden is Weesp, at the mouth of the Vecht; this place, has many distilleries of gin, which is par- ticularly in request for the American market. Amsterdam is supplied with water from a place called Nichtevecht, higher up on the Vecht. 3 Naarden. — Inn : Hof van Hol- land. A fortress with^immensely broad ditches, fortified by Coeliorn, on the Zuider Zee, 2000 inhab. It was taken by the Spaniards under Frederick of Toledo, who burnt it to the ground, after having put to the sword all its inhabitants, without distinction of age or sex. It was again taken, in 1672, by the French, and afterwards recovered by William III. It forms the key of all the water communications of Hol- land. At Naarden the marsh land ends, and the vast heaths, which extend, with partial interruptions of cultiva- tion, all the way to the Ems and Elbe, begin. Beyond this the road turns away from the sea. 35 Amersfbort. — Inn, Doelen, not good; 9000 inhab., on the Eem; is noted as the birthplace of Barneveld, Grand Pensionary of Holland. The college for the education of Jansenist priests (see p. 75.) is established Jiere. There are manufactures of bombazeen here, and much tobacco is cultivated and dried in the neighbourhood. About 5 m. from Amersfoort is the beautiful villa of Soestdyk, presented by the States of the Netherlands to the loo: it is prettily situated, surrounded with gardens. There is nothing re- markable in the road by 2^ De Klomp to — 3J Arnhem (see Route 5.). present King when Prince of Orange, gratitude for his conduct at Water- ROUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN, LKEU- WARDEN, HARLINGEN, AND EMDEN. --VISIT TO THE PAUPER COLONIES OF FREDERIESOORD. 43\ Posts = 204^ Eng. m. A steamer every morning from Am- sterdam to Kampen (p. 63.), returning the same afternoon (p. 90.), by which a large portion of the land journey may be avoided. Steamers 3 times a week to Zwolle, and to Harlingen in 8 or 10 hours. Travellers who follow the land route must not expect to meet with a good road or picturesque country. The manners of the inhabitants in the nor- thern provinces of Holland are singular and primitive. 3 Naarden. "| 0 . _ 3;} Amersfoort. J ee 011 4^ Harderwijk. 23 Elburg. — Inn, Post. The road passes through Hattem on the left bank of the Yssel: then crosses that river to — 2| Zwolle.— Inns, Keizer’s Kroon; extortionate : —Heerenlogement. The capital of Overyssel is a prosperous commercial town of 14,000 inhab., re- markable for its cleanliness, situated on a small stream called the Zwarte Water. The entrance from Deventer through an old gateway, with peaked turrets, is e 3ROUTE 7.—MEPPEL. SOCIETY OF CHARITY. Sect. I. picturesque. There are good streets and spacious places. The reformed Church of St. Michael contains a hand- some carved pulpit. The gardens and walks about the town are very agree- able. A convent, which once stood on the hill of St. Agnes, was the residence, for 64 years, of Thomas a Kempis, whose work on the “ Imitation of Christ” is translated into almost every living language. He died here in 1741. G. Terburg, the painter, was born at Zwolle, 1608. Through Hasselt and Zwarte Sluis to — Sj Meppel.— Inn, Heerenlogement. About 15 m. from Meppel, and 3 from Steenwyk, are the Pauper Agricultural Colonies of Frederiksoord and Will- emsoorb. There is a tolerable inn on the spot. The great increase of mendicity in Holland after the years of scarcity, 1816 and 1817, led to the formation of a Society of Charity (Maatschappij van Weldadigheid), for the purpose of res- cuing from beggary able-bodied la- bourers and their families, by settling them on waste lands, employing them in rendering these wastes productive, and by educating their children. The project met with the support of the late king. A society was at once formed at the Hague, with Prince Frederick as president. In a short time 20,000 sub- scribers were enrolled, who contributed 3^ florins each, in all 70,000 fl. (about 58501.). With this, in 1818, 1300 acres of tolerably good land, 2600 acres of barren heath in the province of Drenthe, and on the borders of Overyssel, were purchased. The land cost 56,000 fl. — 14,000 remained. The first operations were rendering the river Aa, which runs through the district, navigable to the Zuyder Zee; erecting 52 cottages for as many families, or for 6 or 8 in- dividuals each; and a public magazine, a spinning-factory, and a school. On Oct. 10. 1818, 52 pauper families, sent from various communes, were settled in the colony, to which was given the name of Frederiksoord ([oord, district). The communes to which they belonged contracted with the society for the re- ception of these persons, whom they would otherwise be compelled to main- tain at home. The expense of esta- blishing, with necessary outfits, 3 fa- milies, or 24 persons,“ was found to amount to 1600 fl., or about 142/. Loans were then raised, each limited to this amount, as the expense of lo- cating 3 families : these were advanced by the government, by the king in his private capacity, by communes, and by benevolent societies, or individuals. For each loan the contributors were allowed to send 3 families. There are now (1848) upwards of 2000 families at Frederiksoord and the adjoining colony of Willemsoord. Each family has a separate cottage, built at a cost to the society of 40/. The original plan was to give every family 3 acres of land, half of it having been rendered productive beforehand, a cow, and a pig. They were also furnished with clothes, implements of agriculture, and provisions for a certain period. All this and other advances were set down as a debt to the society, to be repaid by the earnings of the colonists, and by the produce of the land. The instances of the complete discharge of the original debt are very rare indeed, and the ma- nagers soon rested satisfied if no new debts were contracted in addition to the first. The whole establishment was placed under the superintendence of a director : a sub-director was appointed to preside over each 100 families; a quartermaster over 20 families; and a section-master, thoroughly and prac- tically an agriculturist, over 12 families. Except in 30 or 40 cases, in which the parties are in the position of tenants to the society, and pay as on lease for their 3-acre allotments, the colonists now work for the society on any lands desired, and have no longer any con- nexion with 3 acres : each family, how- ever, still receives a house, a cow, and a garden not exceeding 1 acre. One reason for this change was, that there were many incapacitated for cultivating lands, but able for other trades. Re- claiming and cultivating the land is, however, the chief employment of the colonists, and those who are ignorantHolland. route 7.—meppel. society of charity. 79 of agriculture are instructed. The spade and hoe have been chiefly used. All work is performed by the piece, and not by time. Each labourer re- ceives, at the end of the day, a card stating the amount of his earnings, for which he receives an equivalent in potatoes, bread, &c. There is a maxi- mum fixed; if he earns more than that per week, the surplus is put in reserve, and given him at the end of the year, after deducting for the administration of the colony, &c.: he also receives some clothes quarterly. The idle are compelled to work, or, if they refuse, are sent off to the penal colony of Om- merschans. At seasons unsuited to field labour, the women are employed in spinning and weaving. The children are instructed in schools built on the spot, and are entirely in the schools until they are 12 years old, or, if back- ward, 13 : they then commence work at weaving or out-of-door work, &c. &c. The children are only kept in the co- lony until 20 to 23 years of age, when they are desired to provide for them- selves. There are places of worship for Lutherans, Catholics, and Jews. The education of the children is entrusted to the care of the managers. Houses have been built by the co- lonists with bricks formed from the clay dug on the spot, cemented with lime produced from shells brought from the sea-shore, and burnt with turf found on the land. The houses are built at intervals along the side of broad roads, crossing each other at right angles, and are all on one plan, and are well adapted for the comforts of a fa- mily. They are thatched with reeds, which are said to be more durable than straw or heather, lasting from 20 to 30 years. This reed (Arundo phragmatis) grows by the sides of the canals and rivers, 6 and 7 feet high. Besides these two free colonies, two others, having much the character of Penal Colonies, have been established — one at Veenhuizen, 15 miles from Frederiksoord, and 9 from Assen, but situated on the, same uninterrupted heath. It was originally proposed to settle here the children of the different orphan asylums in the towns of Hol- land, under the idea that the situation and air of the large towns were detri- mental to their health. Accordingly, the society agreed to receive them for a consideration of 60 guilders per an- num for each child. This scheme, however, did not meet with general approval, and was subsequently aban- doned, and the establishment converted into a mendicity colony. It corre- sponds nearly in its character, arrange- ments, and discipline with that of Om~ merschans, a few miles from Meppel. This was a dilapidated fortress, situ- ated also in the midst of a heath. It serves as a penitentiary for refractory free colonists, and for the amendment of beggars and idle persons, but not criminals, sent by their parishes or the government. They are compelled to work either as field labourers or in the workshops. They are generally sent for a certain number of years, to reform idle habits. Punishments of various kinds are inflicted on the refractory. A value is put on their daily work, and th,ey receive a certain portion for them- selves. The colony is said not to be entirely self-supporting. The number of detenus amounts to about 2000, in-, eluding women and children. Their escape is prevented partly by a canal which surrounds the building, partly by a cordon of watchmen established in 25 cottages built in a circle, at the distance of 5 minutes* walk from one another. The experiment has been tried now for 30 years, and though, in point of profit, it has not realized the sanguine expectations of its projectors, nor as a commercial speculation is likely to suc- ceed, yet it has succeeded in the bene- volent objects at which it aimed, by rescuing many hundred individuals and families, previously paupers and friend- less, from vice and destitution; making them useful members of society; and in rendering fertile and profitable, and capable of supporting human beings, large tracts of lend previously desert and useless, which are daily increasing in value. The expenses of these co- lonies have indeed become so great p burden, that the government has been80 ROUTE 7.—ASSEN. LEEUWARDEN. Sect. I. seriously contemplating their abolition, and is only withheld from such a step by the not knowing how to provide for the persons supported on them. The founder and originator of these valuable institutions was the late Ge- neral Van den Bosch, who was the first director. While serving in the Dutch colonies in the East, he purchased an estate in the island of Java, and devoted much of his time to improvements in agriculture. It did not long escape his observation that the estate of a native mandarin, which lay next to his own, and resembled it in soil and situation, never failed, in spite of all the pains he took with his own land, to produce far finer crops. This induced him to form an acquaintance with his neigh- bour, from whom he learnt a system which proved so beneficial, that the estate, which he purchased in Java for 25,000 rix dollars, fetched 150,000 when sold, on his departure from the country. The secret of the mandarin’s luxuriant crop appears to have been the attention he paid to obtaining a good stock of manure for his land ; to this the efforts of the colonists are studiously directed. (See a Journal of a visit to the Dutch dairy farms, in 1848, by Lord Blantyre, published in the Industrial Magazine.) The direct road to Groningen runs through Assen. It takes about 8 hours to travel by Trekschuit from Meppel to Assen. 3 Dieverbrug. 3 Assen. A village of only 1800 inhab., though the chief place in the province of Drenthe. It has two Inns; both execrable: the Post is the least bad. (Goldner Romer.) Near Assen, at Ballo and Suidlaaren, occur ex- amples of those very singular sepulchres of an ancient people, commonly called Hunebedden : they are usually large stones placed upright in the ground, in rowsj surrounded by circles of smaller stones, or covered by others laid across, and open at the end; some are 80 feet long. Urns, hatchets, hammers, and other articles of wood and stone, but none of metal, have been found in them. The road from Meppel to Leeu- warden passes through Steenwyk to— 5 Heerenveen. 4 Leeuwarden (Inn, Nieuwe Doe- len, very good), chief town of the province of Friesland, with a popula- tion of more than 17,000 souls. In one of the churches are monuments of the Stadholders of Friesland, which the French defaced. The fortifications are turned into plantations. Leeuwarden possesses a large and handsome Town- house. The fagade of the House ot Correction (Huis van Burgerlyke en Militaire Verzekering), with the date MD., is worthy of observation. It is a rich specimen of mixed brick and stone work, with seven statues repre- senting Virtues, &c. upon the steps of the quaint gable. Just within the Har- lingen gate stands a fine old leaning church tower, of bricks of two colours and grey stone : the body of the church was destroyed by a storm. From the top of the tower is a fine view over the rich pastures of Friesland to Har- lingen. No province of Holland has pre- served, to the same extent, its ancient manners and costumes as that of Fries- land. The head-dress of the women, the gold hoops and pendants, and the beautiful lace caps, are especially de- serving of remark. Such a head-dress sometimes costs 2000 guilders. These costumes may be seen in perfection at Leeuwarden on market-day. The wo- men are celebrated for beauty. Many of the towns, villages, and even farm- houses, and all the old churches, are built on mounds (teepen) raised above the. surface, which originally afforded refuge to the inhabitants from inun- dation, before the country was properly dyked. The Frieslanders pride them- selves on having been from the earliest times a free and independent people, governed by laws of their own, which Charlemagne caused to be collected and written down, and which still exist. 12 miles W. of Leeuwarden is the seaport of Harlingen (Inn, Heerenloge- ment), on the Zuider Zee, with 9000 inhab. There is a steamer from Lon- don to Harlingen every Wednesday,Holland. ROUTE 7.—GRONINGEN. EMDEN. 81 and 2 every Saturday. Much butter, the product of Friesland, is exported hence. It stands on the site of a town swallowed up by the sea in 1134, and is itself protected by one of the largest dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in at its base with 3 rows of piles driven into the ground. The monument erected by the Dutch to the Spanish Governor Roblas, who first introduced (1570) an improved method of con- structing these sea-walls, still exists S. of the town ; gratitude for the benefits conferred having proved stronger than national hatred against a Spaniard. A Trekschuit goes daily from Harlingen to Groningen, by Franeker and Leeu- warden ; and a steam-boat to Amster- dam 3 times a week. About 32 m. \V. of Leeuwarden (6 hours by diligence), and connected with it by a grand canal extending from the river Eras to Harlingen on the Zuider Zee, lies 4 Groningen. Inns: Pays-Bas : — Doelen : — De Groote’] Munster : — Wapen van Amsterdam. A fortified town at the junction of the Hunse and Aa ; the most important of the N. pro- vinces of Holland. 30,000 inhab. The University, founded in 1615, is frequented by about 400 students, and has an excellent museum of natural history. The finest buildings are the great Church of St. Martin, a handsome Gothic structure, and the Hdtel de ViUe, a modern building, faced with Portland stone; both situated in the Bree Markt, one of the grandest squares in Holland. On the Ossenmarkt is the monument of Guyot, the founder of an institution for the deaf and dumb, which is still flourishing. By means of a canal called Schui. tendiep, large vessels come up from the sea to the town. 4£ Winschoten. Inn, Post, best, but bad ; last town in Holland; 2000 in- hab. l| Neue Schanze, a small frontier fortress of Hanover, strong from its position among swamps, which render approach difficult. Weener on the Ems, here a broad river, crossed by a ferry for horses and carriages. 1 Leer {Inn, Konig von PreUssen, good : — Prinz v. Oranien), a town of 5000 inhab., with a considerable trade to England in agricultural produce. “ Between Leer and Oldenburg, in the middle of the swamp, is a little pri- mitive district called Soterland, where the old Frisian language is still spoken.” — F. S. There is steam communica- tion from Leer to Emden, but bad tra- velling by land. 2 Emden {Inn, Post, in the market place), a fortified town, capital of the Hanoverian province of E. Friesland, contains about 15,000 inhab. If has the most extensive trade in oats of any port in Europe. It lies in a marshy situation ; but the land around it is of great fertility, yielding, besides oats, much butter and cheese. In the Rath- haus is a curious collection of ancient arms and armour. The town lies be- low the level of the Ems, and is de- fended against it by strong dykes, not- withstanding which it has suffered from repeated inundations. A canal is now constructing between strong dykes con- necting Emden with the deep water of the Dollart; and the town will, when this is completed, be protected by a high and strong embankment against the incursions of this estuary. In 1826 the water stood in the streets for 3 months up to the first floor of the houses. On the ramparts were buried many thousand British officers and sol- diers who died here from the sufferings they endured in the retreat of the Duke of York’s army from Holland, in the dreadful winter of 1791. Backhuisen and Moucheron, painters, were born here. Steamers to Delfzyl in Groningen every day. The shortest way from Groningen to Emden, and the best in not very bad weather, is by Treckschuit to Delfzyl, in 5 or 6 hours, through the picturesque village of Appingadam. At Delfzyl is a little seaport inn, the Post. A good steamer crosses the Dollart every day in about l£ hour, to Emden; on its e 582 ROUTE 9.—ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. Sect. I. arrival at which place, another steamer starts for Leer, which is reached in about hours from Emden. Tra- vellers bound for Oldenburg and Bre- men may proceed on at once by dili- gence from Leer to Oldenburg, a journey of 8 or 9 hours. Steamers proceed up the Ems beyond Leer. See Route 6. ROUTE 8. AMSTERDAM TO BREMEN. 23^ Dutch posts; and 20^ German miles. ' Diligence by way of Osnabruck. A tedious road through a country almost entirely heath, beyond 3 Naarden, "1 Sj Amersfoort. J 2 Voorthuizen. 3J Appeldoorn. A pretty village. Not far from it is the Palace of the Loo, the summer residence of the late King of Holland: the gardens are extensive, but flat; they contain fine sheets of water. It was the favourite retreat of William III., who repaired hither to hunt. There is a good Inn near the palace. 2 Deventer. Inns: Nieuwe Kei- zers Kroon (Imperial Crown): — ’t Wapen van Overyssel. A thriving town on the bank of the Yssel, 14,000 Inhab., and a considerable iron foundry -and carpet manufactory. The' Cathe- dral is a vast and venerable edifice, in the late Gothic style, surmounted by a handsome tower; it contains some good painted glass. The English forces, under the Earl of Leicester, gained possession of Deventer in 1586; but Col. Wm. Stanley, who was ap- pointed Governor, treacherously yielded it to the Duke of Parma in 1587, tak- ing over with him his regiment of 1300 men. He became a traitor from a principle of conscience, believing his duty to his country to be incompatible with that which he owed to the Romish faith. This is the native place of the philologer Gronovius, and Erasmus went to school here. Deventer is cele- brated for its gingerbread; and in order to keep up its reputation, an officer, appointed by the magistrates, inspects the cakes before they are baked, in order to ascertain that the dough is properly mixed. Many thousand pounds of this gingerbread are annually exported. Travellers should ask for the Deventer Koek, at the shop of W. J. Smies, called the AllemansGading, in the Groote Kerkhof E., No. 1354. It is close to the house at which the diligence stops. 2 Holten. 3 Almelo. Ootmarsum. 2 Nordhorn; first town in Hanover. The distance to this place is 23£ Dutch posts. German miles and posts begin at the frontier. Here the Dutch brick chaussee ends ; beyond, the road, though inferior, is improved of late, and tolerable. 2=} Lingen. Inn bad, charges ex- orbitant. 4 Herzlake. 1^ Loningen. 3| Kloppenberg. 2 Ahlhorn. 2 Wildeshausen. 3 Delmenhorst. 2 Bremen. See Route 69. ROUTE 9. ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT, BY GOUDA. 6\ Posts = 30^ Eng. Miles. Steamer once a-day, at 2 p.m., to de Vaart, from thence by diligence to Utrecht; arrival at Utrecht 7^ p.m. : from Utrecht at 8 a.m., after the arri- val of the first trains from Amsterdam and Arnhem; arrival at Rotterdam 12 h. 30 m. Diligences twice a-day to Utrecht. Steamer to Gouda, started in 1848, at 9 o’clock a.m.-, from Rotterdam, reaching Gouda in about 2 hours, and left Gouda for Rotterdam at 2 p.m., allowing thus full time to see Gouda. Fare, 90 cents.: but return, or “ double journey,” tickets (personaal kaarten voor de heen en terugreize), 1 fl. 50 cents. The road to Gouda is conducted along the high dyke, constructed, infjQuana. route y.—OOuda. church of st. john. 1272, by the side of the Yssel, to pro- tect the country from inundations. On the way lies the Zevenhuisische Plas, one of the most recent instances of the draining of a polder (§ 11.). At Kordenoord, near Gouda, may be^seen two of the finest windmills in Holland; they are of vast size and admirable construction. 2\ Gouda or Tergouw. Inns: Doe- len, very good : — Salmon (Zalm). A decayed town of 17,500 inhab.; with a large grass-grown square. The large Ch. of St. John (Jans Kerh) is famous for its painted glass windows, considered to be nearly the finest in Europe. They are for the most part SO feet high, (2 are nearly double that height), and finished with great atten- tion to the details, but are of various degrees of merit. They were executed, between 1560 and 1603, by 2 brothers, Dirk and Wouter Crabeth, and their pupils and assistants. One (No. 10.), having been destroyed by a storm, was restored in 1655, and by its inferiority proves the art to have been then on the decline. The finest are by the Cra- beths, and are pointed out by their initials in the following enumeration. They were presents from towns or wealthy individuals, made on the re- building of the church after a fire, about the year 1560. Very elaborate draw- ings of them, by Christoph. Pierson, are preserved in the vestry. A small book, very diverting, from its quaint English and mis-spelling, is sold by the verger for 5 - stivers, intituled, “ Explanation of the famous and re- nowned Glas-work or painted Windows, in the fine and eminent Church at Gouda, for the use and commodity of both Inhabitans and Foreigners that come to see this artificial work.” The subjects of the windows are as fol- lows, beginning on the left hand on entering the church by the door under the steeple: — 1. An Alle- gorical Representation of Liberty of Conscience. 2, The taking of Damietta by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa in the 3d Crusade. 3. The Virgin of Dort. 4. Justice and Valour with the Arms of the Lords of Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Sheba visits Solomon, by W. Crabeth. 6. Siege of Bethulia: Beheading of Ho- lofemes, by D. Crabeth. 7. The Last Supper, with Queen Mary of England and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, kneeling. The upper part of this window was destroyed by a hailstorm. By D. C. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- dorus, by W. C. 9. The Angel ap- pearing to Zacharias. 10. The An- nunciation. 11. Birth of John the Baptist. 12. The Nativity, by W. C. 13. Christ among the Doctors. 14. John the Baptist Preaching, by D. C. 15. The Baptism of Christ, by D. C. 16. Sermon on the Mount, by D. C. 17. John the Baptist rebuking Herod. 18. John the Baptist’s Disciples ques- tioning Christ, by 'D. C. 19. Behead- ing of John the Baptist. 20. and 21. represent the Sufferings, Resurrection, and Ascension of Christ. 22. The Money-Changers driven from the Tem- ple, by D. C. 23. The Offering of Elijah before the Priests of Baal, by W. C. 24. The Angel sending Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, and Peter and John healing the Lame Man, by D. C. 25. The Relief of Leiden, and Raising the Siege. 26. The Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee and Pub- lican in the Temple. 28. The Woman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan re- proving David. 30. The Whale cast- ing forth Jonah. 31. In the S. tran- sept, Baalam and his Ass. Besides these, there are 13 windows above the choir, representing Christ and his Apostles. “ The church contains a very power- ful and sweet-toned organ, in which the vox humana stop is especially fine.” —H.F.C. The H6tel de ViUe was the residence of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part was taken by the citizens during the civil wars of the Hoeksen and Kabil- jauwsen (Hooks and. Cod-fish, the names of two factions, like Whig and Tory with us). It was of fine old red brick and stone, but has been white- washed. There are large manufactories of bricks here. The clay for bricks is s 684 ROUTE 11.—THE RHINE. Sect. T. scraped up out of the bed of the Yssel, with a sort of hoe haying a sack at- tached to it, and is particularly well adapted for the purpose. Tobacco pipes were also made here in large quantities. The clay for them _was brought from the banks of the Moselle and the neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes are shaped in moulds of brass; but the most difficult operation, the boring, is done by the hand, with a piece of iron wire blunt at the ex- tremity, and requires great dexterity in the workmen. The trade has fallen off, owing to the prevalence of cigars. Very few people are now employed in it. The best cheese in Holland is a new milk cheese, called Gouda cheese, being made near this town. The Rhine communicates, for ship navigation, with the Yssel and Meuse, by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda Sluis passes the vessel across the dyke of the Rhine into a spacious canal connected with the Kromme Gouda river. This last was made in 1281 as a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 miles long, and has an excellent tide lock at Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide in the chamber. A cross-road, not very good, conducts from Gouda to Woerden, a town of 2600 inhab., on the banks of the Old Rhine. Best Inn, Veerhuis. 4 Utrecht, (See Routes 5. and 10.) ROUTE 10. THE HAGUE TO UTRECHT. 9 Posts =41^ Eng. Miles. From the Hague to Leiden, Rail- road, see Route 2.; if by road, then as follows: —Near Voorburg is the house of Hofwyk, built by Constantine Huy- gens, the poet and statesman, described by him in his poems, and afterwards inhabited by Christian Huygens, the mathematician, and discoverer of Sa- turn’s ring. Farther on, at the village of I.eydschendam, the traveller may remark the difference of level of the waters of two districts, the Rhijnland on one side, and the Delftland on the other,which are here separated by a lock. 2^ Leiden is described at page 40. A diligence runs every morning, in 5 hours, from Leiden to Utrecht. On leaving Leiden, before reaching Kouderkerk, is Rembrand’s mill, where he was born; it lies on the left hand in going to Utrecht, between the rcyid and the Rhine. See p. 44. 2 Alphen. Inn, The Star, is famed for its perch dressed in waterzootje in high perfection. Beyond this the road passes the beautiful villages of Zwam- merdam and Bodegraven, and. after- wards through 2^ Woerden, all memorable as the scenes of the atrocities committed by the French army, under Marshal Lux- emburg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as described by Voltaire, is not exagge- rated : so great was the hatred which it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, who were witnesses of their conduct, that descriptions of the war, called “ Fransche Tyranny,” were written and printed as school-books for their chil- dren to read, calculated to hand down an inheritance of hate for their enemies to future generations. 2 Utrecht. There is a more direct road from the Hague, avoiding Lei- den and Woerden by Voorburg (1| post), Gouda (3£), Utrecht (4), in Route 5. ROUTE 11. THE RHINE, A. FROM) ROTTERDAM TO NVMEGEN. Travellers, whether in search ot amusement or pressed for time, should avoid the voyage up the lower part oi the Rhine, below Cologne, because there are two other very interesting routes from England to Cologne; one by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, and Utrecht ( Routes 2. and 5.), which, however, is somewhat circuitous; the other by Ostend, or Antwerp, and Brussels (Routes 17. 21. and 23.), which is the shortest way from London, and by far the quickest since the for- mation of railroads through Belgium. The best way to visit the Rhine from England is to go by Belgium and itsHolland, route 11.—the rhine in Holland. 85 railways, and return by Holland down the Rhine. The Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting river, with high dykes on each side, which protect the flat country from inundations and inter- cept all view, save of a few villages, church steeples, and farm houses, painted of various colours, which are seen peering above them. There are three companies of Steamers on the Rhine: the Cologne, distin- guished by black funnels; tbe Dussel- dorf, by funnels with alternate stripes of black and white; and the Nether- lands, by funnels half white and half black. The Cologne boats are the best, but go no lower down than Dus- seldorf, where the passengers are ^trans- ferred to the Netherlands Company’s boats. The Dusseldorf Company also change boats at Dusseldorf, stopping 2 or 3 hours there in the middle of the night. There being no sleeping accommodation on board, and no re- strictions as to the number of passengers, this passage is very uncomfortable, both pavilion and saloon being generally uncomfortably crowded. Between Rotterdam and Nymegen there is a risk of sitting on a sandbank for an hour or two, till the tide rises, and there is always a detention of some hours at the Prussian frontier. Steam-boats leave Rotterdam every morning in the summer, and every other morning in the latter part of the season. The hour of departure varies with the tide. They reach Nymegen or Arnhem in about 12 hours. Here passengers have the option of sleeping on board or ashore. For Fares refer to the printed bills of the companies. The State Cabin has the advantage over the first cabin, that it is private; it is, therefore, often convenient to secure it for a party in which there are several ladies. Beds are charged 1 guilder = Is. 8d. extra. A carriage, not accompanied by passengers, costs 27. Is. 2d.; with three or more persons, only 17. 3s. N. B. If the traveller’s passport has not received a Prussian signature in England, it may be signed by the Prussian consul in Rotterdam. The Rhine, flowing out of Germany into Holland, descends in an undivided stream as far ns the point of the Delta (the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). At a place called Pannerden it splits into two branches. From this division of its stream, Virgil applies the epithet bicornis to the Rhine (.En. viii. 727.). The left-hand branch, called the Waal or Vahal, directing its course W., passes Nymegen, joins the Meuse, and, in conjunction with it, assumes the name of Merwe. The other branch, which, after the first separation, retains the name of Rhine, turns northward; ^ a league above Arnhem, it throws out an arm called Yssel, known to the ancients as Fossa Frusi, because it was formed by Drusus in the reign of Au- gustus : it falls into the Zuider Zee, after passing Zutphen, Deventer, and Campen. The river after this con- tinues on past Arnhem to Wyk by Duurstede, and there again divides, throwing off to the left an arm called the Lek, which falls into the Maas a little above Rotterdam. The other arm, still retaining the original name olf Rhine, after this separation, divides for the last time at Utrecht; the offset is called the Vecht, and flows into the Zuider Zee. The old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once mighty river which carries its name to the sea, assumes the appearance of a canal; and, after pass- ing sluggishly the town of Leiden, enters the ocean through the sluice- gates of Katwyk. (See p. 44.) a. THE WAAL. *** The right (r.) and left (7.) banks of a river are those which lie on the right or left hand of a person turn- ing his back to the quarter from which the river descends. The Waal is the largest and most important of the 4 branches into which the Rhine divides its stream on reach- ing Holland. On quitting Rotterdam the guard- ship is passed, and (7.) Feyenoord, where is the largest engineering esta- blishment and foundry in Holland. Numerous country seats of rich Rot- terdam merchants are scattered along86 KOUTE.ll.--THE RHINE. BIES BOSCH. DORT. Sect. I. the banks. The narrow arm of the Maas, called Spaniard’s-Diep, is lined with shipyards, cottages, and wind- mills. The river Lek here falls into the Maas. A short distance higher up lies — l. Dort or Dordrecht. Inns: Bellevue; Wapen van America; and Valk. One of the oldest towns in Holland, has 21,000 inhab., and con- siderable trade. The first Assembly of the States of Holland, held after their revolt from the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in 1572; and declared the Prince of Orange Stadholder, and the only lawful Go- vernor of the country. In an ancient Gothic building, stand- ing in a back street, and now degraded into a poor public-house, called Klove- niers Doelen, the famous assembly of Protestant divines, known as the Synod of Dort, was held, 1618-19. It lasted six months, during which there were 152 sittings, unprofitably occupied, for the most part, in discussing the incom- prehensible questions of Predestination and Grace. At the conclusion, the pre- sident declared that “ its miraculous labours had made hell tremble.” The result of its labours was to declare the Calvinistic doctrines respecting predes- tination the established faith, and to condemn Arminius and his followers as heretics. The ordinances then passed were long the law of the Dutch national church. The apartment in which the Synod met is still preserved unaltered; but when visited recently by a Scotch traveller, was found filled with the scenes and trappings belonging to a party of strolling players, and converted temporarily into a theatre! The Gothic Church, conspicuous at a long distance, owing to its tall square tower, contains a beautifully carved pulpit of white marble, adorned with bas reliefs, numerous monuments, and some church plate of massive gold, pre- sented by an East India merchant. The Mint is a building of the 15th century. Dort serves as a haven for the gigantic rafts of wood, the produce of the forests of Switzerland, and the Schwarzwald, which are brought down the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 men each, and are here broken up and sold. A single raft sometimes produces 30.000Z. A de- scription of them will be found in the route from Cologne to Mayence. The celebrated brothers De Witt were born here; also Cuyp and Schalken, the painters, and Vossius. After a general survey of the town, which is truly Dutch in its combination of sluices and canals, and a visit to the old church, the timber-ponds where the raft-wood is collected, the windmills where it is sawn into planks, and the sliip-builders’ yards, there is nothing to detain a traveller here. A constant communication is kept up by steam- boats with Rotterdam and Moerdyk, which is on the road from Rotterdam to Antwerp, (p. 90.) Dort stands on an island formed by a terrible inundation in 1421, when the tide in the estuary of the Rhine, excited by a violent tempest, burst through a dyke, overwhelming a populous and productive district, which it at once converted into a waste of waters, called the Bies Bosch (i. e. rusliwood, from hies, rush, whence the English besom), part of which still exists. 72 villages and 100,000 human beings were swal- lowed up by the waves. 35 of the vil- lages were irretrievably lost, so that no vestige, even of the ruins, could after- wards be discovered. The only relic preserved from the waters is a solitary tower, called the house of Merwede. By this inundation, the number of the mouths of the Rhine was increased, and the Waal was made double its former size. . Many maps, as well as guide- books, represent this district as still under water, but a large part of it has been recovered; still the river here spreading out bears the aspect of a lake interspersed with numerous islands, un- inhabited, but producing hay in abund- ance. The country about Dort seems choked with water; every hollow is full, and the fear is excited lest, by the rising of the Rhine a foot, or even an inch or two, the whole should at once be overwhelmed by the waters. The Ablasser Waard,Holland, route 11.—the Rhine, loeyestein. grotius. 87 near Gorcum, lies considerably lower than the bottom of the bed of the Rhine! There are numerous and in- tricate sandbanks between Dort and r. Gorcum, or Gorinchem, an old walled town at the junction of the Merwe and Linge, and one of the first places taken by the Water Gueux from the Spaniards in 1572; but they sullied their victory with the murder of 19 Catholic priests, for which their com- mander, Lumey, was disgraced by the States General. The anniversary of the Holy Martyrs of Gorcum is still ob- served in the Romish calendar. The canal of Zederick connects Gorcum on the Merwe with Vianen on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gorcum is (Z.) Woud- richem, or Worcum. /. The Castle of Loevestein, situated on the west point of the island of Bommel, formed by the united streams of the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison of Grotius in 1619. The history of his escape in a box, March 22. 1621, gives an interest to the spot: “ He beguiled the tedious hours of confinement by study; relieving his mind by varying its objects. Ancient and modern lite- rature equally engaged his attention : Sundays he wholly dedicated to prayer and the study of theology. He com- posed the greater part of the ‘ Jus Belli et Pacis ’ here. 20 months of impri- sonment thus passed away. His wife now began to devise projects for his li- berty. She had observed that he was not so strictly watched as at first; that the guards, who examined the chest used for the conveyance of his books and linen, being accustomed to see nothing in it but books and linen, began to examine them loosely: at length they permitted the chest to pass without any examina- tion. Upon this, she formed her pro- ject for her husband’s release.” She accommodated the chest to her purpose by boring some holes in it, to let in air. She entrusted her maid with the secret, and the chest was conveyed to Grotius’s apartment. She then re- vealed her project to him, and, after much entreaty, prevailed on him to get into the chest, and leave her in the prison. The books, which Grotius bor- rowed, were usually sent to Gorcum; and the chest, which contained them, passed in a boat from the prison at Loevestein to that town. Big .with the fate of Grotius, the chest, as soon as he was enclosed in it, was moved into the boat, accompanied by the maid. One of the soldiers ob- serving that it was uncommonly heavy, the maid answered, “ It is the Arminian books which are so heavy.” The soldier replied, apparently in joke, “ Perhaps it is the Arminian himselfand then, without more ado, the chest wa's lodged in the boat. The maid accompanied it to Gorcum, and when fairly afloat made a signal with her handkerchief to her mistress that all was right. The window where Grotius’s wife stood is still pointed out in Loevestein. The passage from Loevestein to Gorcum took a con- siderable time. At length it reached Gorcum, and was deposited at the house of Jacob Daatzelaar, an Arminian friend of Grotius. The maid flew instantly to him, and told him that her master was in the box; but Daatzelaar, ter- rified for the consequences, declared he would have nothing to do with so dan- gerous a matter. Luckily his wife had more courage; she sent away the servants on different errands, opened the chest, and set Grotius free. He de- clared, that while he was in the chest, which was not more than 8^ ft. long, he had felt a little faintness and much anxiety, but had suffered no other in- convenience. Having dressed himself as a mason, with a rule and trowel, he went through the back door of Daat- zelaar’s house, accompanied by Daat- zelaar’s wife’s brother, a mason by trade, along the market-place, to a boat en- gaged for the purpose. It conveyed them to Waalwyk, in Brabant, where he was safe. In the meantime every precaution had been taken by Madame de Groot to conceal her husband’s de- parture from the governor and his jailors. She took particular care to light the lamp in the room where Grotius was in the habit of studying; and the governor, upon his return home in the evening, remarking the light in Grotius’s win- dow, concluded that his prisoner was88 ROUTE 11.--THE RHINE. NYMEGEN. Sect. I. quite safe. Madame de Groot was not detained long in prison, and rejoined her husband soon after in Paris. There is usually a frigate in the Dutch navy bearing the name of Grotius’s wife, Marie van Reigersberch: history has rescued from oblivion the name of the trusty maid-servant also; it was Elsje van Houwening. 7. Bommel. Inn, Hof Van Guelder- land, once a fortress, was besieged in vain by the Spaniards, 1599, and taken by Turenne, 1672. Its fortifications were destroyed in 1629. The island of Bommel, Bommeler Waard, between the Waal and the Meuse, which here unite their waters, is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andre, and on the W. by Fort Loevestein. 21 posts S. of Bommel lies Hertogen- bosch (Bois-le-duc). (See R. 13.) r. Thiel, apretty town of 3500 inhab., and birthplace of General Chasse, the defender of Antwerp citadel. 66 m. above Rotterdam lies— l. Nymegen. R. 5. p. 76. In the height of summer, when tra- vellers are numerous, much confusion attends the arrival of a Rhenish steamer at its place of destination. It is some- times difficult to procure accommo- dation of any kind. Those who are successful at Nymegen have little cause for congratulation, as the inns are not good, and the charges are shamefully high. Sometimes the steam-boat does not reach Nymegen until the gates are shut; in which case the passengers are compelled to pass the night on board. Nymegen being a frontier town and a fortress, passports are demanded from strangers as they quit the steamer. A diligence sets out every day for Cologne, after the steamer from Rot- terdam has arrived; so that passengers who do not wish to stop here for the night, may proceed without delay, by way of Cleves and Crefeld on the left bank of the Rhine, a journey of about 18 hours, and a distance of about 88 m. (See R. 35.) The voyage from Nymegen to Co- logne by water, about 125 m., is de- scribed in R. 34. b. THE LEK rnOM ROTTERDAM TO ARNHEM. The Steamers of the Dusseldorf Com- pany take this course 4 times a week in summer; but the Lek is often so low as to preclude the passage of a steamer altogether. r. Krimpen ann de Lek. r. Lekker Kerk. r. Schoonhoven, about 20 m. above Rotterdam, is famous for its salmon fisheries. One Albert Beiling, during the wars of the Hoekschen and Kabil- jauschen (Hooks and Codfish) defended (1425)the castle ofSchoonhoven against the forces of Jacqueline of Bavaria. Being at length compelled to surrender, he was condemned by his enemies to be buried alive. He heard his sentence unmoved, and asked for no mitigation of it; but he begged a respite of one month, to enable him to take leave of his wife and children at Gouda. At the expiration of the time he reappeared to suffer his doom with all the fortitude of the Roman Regulus. 1. Nieuwpoort, about a mile from Schoonhoven, opposite to it. r. Vreeswyk is the landing place for passengers going to Utrecht and iAm- sterdam. Coaches convey passengers, for 70 cents, to Utrecht in 1 hr., in time for the Railroad trains to Amsterdam. 1. Vianen, which is opposite to Vreeswyk, is said to be the Fanum Diana of Ptolemy. It formed part of the patrimony of the patriot Count of Brederode, who fortified it for the Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the revolt of the Netherlands. Between Vianen and Kuilenburg there are sluices in the banks of the river, designed solely for laying the country under water in case of foreign invasion. If they were opened, the in- undation would at once spread as far S. as the Waal, as far as Dort to the W., and to the Noort in an opposite direction. A military inundation of this kind is a mode of defence peculiar to Holland. It effectually cuts off the means of approach from an army either by land or water; it covers both roads and canals, leaving an enemy in igno-Holland, route 12.—yssel branch of the rhine. 89 ranee of their direction and course; and, while it is deep enough to check the inarch of troops or cannon, it is so -in- terrupted by shallows and dykes as to render its navigation by boats equally impracticable. 1. Kuilenburg. Inns: Rose; Ver- gulde Hooft. A town of 3000. inhab., formerly a place of refuge for debtors. r. Wyk by Duurstede, supposed to be the Batavodurum of the Romans, though the antiquities lately dug up belong only to the time of the Franks, and do not confirm the supposition. The branch of the Rhine, which alone retains that name to the sea, here se- parates from the Lek, and flows past Utrecht and Leiden to Katwyk, where it is now discharged into the ocean by means of sluice-gates (p. 44). The Lek was originally a canal dug by the Ro- mans to unite the Rhine and Maas; its bed became suddenly enlarged by an inundation in 839, by which the main stream was thrown into it. ( Route 2.) /. Eck and Wiel, near r. Amerongen. Amerongen itself is situated at a little distance from the river. Lord Athlone has a seat near here. r. Rheenen (Inn, Koning van Bo- heme, bad) is a town of 1600 inhab., on the middle branch of the Rhine. There is nothing to be seen here but an old Gothic church with a handsome tower. A large quantity of tobacco is cultivated in this district. A little out of Rheenen, on the road to Amerongen, on the left-hand side, somewhat below the road, at the entrance of a meadow, under some willow trees, the English traveller will remark the mounds under which the bones of some hundreds of his countrymen are mouldering. In 1794 the hospital for the prisoners taken in the Duke of York’s army was at Rheenen; and the mortality being very great, this spot became the cemetery of the hospital. r. Wageningen, 14 miles from Arn- hem. (Inn, Hof van Guelderland,—not good.) An inconsiderable town of about 3000 inhab., supposed to be the ad Vada of the Romans: it is connected with the Rhine by a short canal. On the opposite side of the river to Wageningen is a fiat district of meadow land, called the island of Betuwe, because isolated by the Lek and Waal; it retains in its name a memorial of the ancient inha- bitants of this country, the Batavi. 1. Heteren. r. Arnhem. Route 6. r. 3 miles above Arnhem, the Yssel (pron. Eyssel) branches off from the Rhine, and flows, into the Zuider Zee at Kampen. It is also navigated by steam.—Route 12. 1. Huissen. “ Near Tollhuis the army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, 1672, an exploit much vaunted by the French Poets (Boileau, &c.) and his- torians of the time, though little risk was incurred but that of drowning, as there were very few, if any, Dutch troops immediately on the spot to op- pose the passage.”—J. W. C. The river was then much reduced by the drought of summer, though not entirely fordable, and many legiments had to swim across. The Great Conde was here wounded in the wrist, and his nephew was killed by his side. r. Pannerden. Here the Waal first branches out from the main trunk oi the Rhine, which above this spot flows in one undivided stream. (See p. 85.) The voyage to Cologne is described in Route 34. ' ROUTE 12. ARNHEM TO KAMPEN, BY THE YSSEI., BRANCH OF THE RHINE, THROUGH, ZUTPHEN ANn DEVENTER. Steamers 3 times a-week along the Yssel (pron. Eyssel)—from Arnhem to Kampen. The voyage even in de- scending takes up 1 day. Diligences go several times a-day by Zutphen to Deventer, in 5 hours. The steamer ascends the Rhine about 2 m. to reach the mouth of the Yssel. This was originally a canal formed by Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus ( Fossa Drusiana), to join the old Yssel with the Rhine. The pretty village of Velp (p. 75.) is seen among the trees.90 ROUTE 13.—ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP. BREDA. Sect. I. r. Doesborgh. (/nn: Heerenloge- ment.) A fortified town at the con- fluence of the old and new Yssel, 2540 inhab., was taken from the Spaniards and pillaged, 1585, by the English, under the Earl of Leicester. 7. Dieren: near this is the curious old moated house of Middaghten. r. Zutphen. (Inns: Keyzerskroon; —Zwaan.) A strong fortress and an- cient town, 10,500 inhab., at the junc- tion of the Berckel with the Yssel. The chief Protestant Church (of St. Walburga) is a fine Gothic building (1105); its tower has been rebuilt since 1600, when the original one was destroyed by lightning. Within, are monuments of the Counts of Zutphen, over one of which is hung a Gothic chandelier of iron gilt, and a modern monument to the family Van Heck- eren. There is a curious Gothic font of copper, and the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit notice. In the church is a library of old books, many of them fastened to the shelves by chains. The Roman Catholics and the Ana- baptists have churches here. The Chimes are placed in the tower of the Weighing House: there is another large square tower called Dro- genass. It was on the battle-field of Warns- feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney re- ceived his death wound, Sept. 22. 1586, after an action in which the English had signally defeated the ve- teran Spaniards under the Marquess of Guasto. Stretched on the ground, bleeding and parched with thirst, the English hero displayed the well-known instance of humanity, in desiring that the cup of water intended for him should be given to the dying soldier at his side. r. Deventer. In Route 8. r. Katerveer. Coaches go hence to Zwolle (p. 77.). 7. Kampen (Inn, Portheine’s, called the Dom of Cologne, may be recom- mended). This sea-port on the Zuider Zee lies at the mouth of .the Yssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. It has about 8000 inhab. Anciently one of the most flourishing Hanse Towns; it is now utterly without commerce. The Town-hall, a genuine Gothic build- ing, with statues of Charlemagne, Alex- ander, and of the Cardinal Virtues; and 2 fine churches, bespeak its former pros- perity. Count Horn, beheaded by Alva, was buried here. A Steamer goes every day except Saturday to Amsterdam : in summer at £ past 1, in correspondence with the last train to Rotterdam. ROUTE 13. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY BREDA, AND BY WATER. 12| posts = 62 English miles. Di- ligences daily, in 12 hours. Steamers daily, in 10 hours, by Dort, Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. (See p. 92.) In travelling by land 3 ferries re- quire to be crossed; at Rotterdam over the Maas, at Dort over the Merwe, and at Moerdijk over the Hollands- Diep. — The ferry boats are steamers, and are very well managed. Steamers also ply daily direct from Rotterdam to Dort and Moerdijk. 2£ Dort. In Route 12., p. 86. 1^ At Willemsdorp, the borders of the Hollands-Diep are reached, an arm of the sea, rather than a river, which takes 20 minutes to cross to Moerdijk. Noordhaven is sometimes chosen as the place of disembarkation: it is 3 posts from Breda. 2=} Breda. Inns: H. de Flandres, very good: Goude Leeuw, or Golden Lion: Couronne, comfortable, Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk and Aa, whose waters, together with the surrounding marshes, render it al- most inaccessible to an enemy, but very unhealthy. The principal Protestant Church has a lofty and graceful Gothic tower, in- jured by being surmounted by a Dutch bulbous spire. Within it is the Tomb of Count Engelbrecht II. of Nassau, fa- vourite general of the Emp. Charles V., and his wife, attributed to Mich. Angelo, It resembles in its plan the monument in Westminster Abbey of Sir F. de Vere.Holland, route 13.—Rotterdam to Antwerp, breda. 91 Their effigies, formed of Italian ala- baster, repose upon elaborately carved mats ; while 4 statues of Julius Cxsar, Regulus, and 2 other classic heroes, in a half-kneeling posture, support on their shoulders a table of stone, on which lies the armour of the prince carved in marble. M. Angelo might have made a sketch of the design; but the awkward pose of some of the figures, the feeble- ness of the anatomical details, the mean- ness and angularity of the drapery, and the minute finish, of some of the acces- sories, prove that M. Angelo could have had no hand in the execution. There are some other monuments which are interesting memorials of the days of Spanish rule. Their ornaments are elegant, and in plataresco style: one of Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling figures ; another, bearing the date 1536, to the memory of the Sieur de Borgnival, chief engineer to Charles V. Behind the high altar is an altar tomb of the Knight of Renesse and his Lady. At the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu- ment to some of the Aschendaal family, with a vigorous and excellent relief of the Last Judgment. Many of these monuments have been injured by vio- lence. In the choir is a highly orna- mented brass, commemorating William of Gaellen, a Dean of the Chapter; and curious and well executed carvings in wood, representing monks [in ludi- crous attitudes, intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. There is also a very fine brass font, the cover of which is raised by a crane. The old castle was built, 1350, by Count Henry of Nassau; the modern Chateau by William, afterwards the Third of England. It is a square sur- rounded by the waters of the Merk. Here is a military academy for infantry, cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable of accommodating 192 cadets. It is exclusively from this academy that the Dutch army is now officered. Here are good stables and an ample stud, a swimming school and an extensive plateau, with cannon of every calibre, which supplies the means of drill ap- plicable to each branch of the service. It contains also a good library, a well- stocked model room, and a small mu- seum of arms. (See Quar. Rev. No. 166. p. 441.) Breda was taken from the Spaniards, in 1590, by means of a singular stratagem concerted between a brave veteran cap- tain of Prince Maurice’s army, named Harauguer, and one Adrian Vanden- berg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Thursday, Feb. 26., Harauguer, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were’ carefully covered over with a cargo of turf. Though the boat had not many miles to go from the place where it was laden, it was so much im- peded by contrary winds, and by the frost which had covered the water with a thick coat of ice, that the third day passed before it arrived within | league of the town. To add to the perils of the crew the vessel sprung a leak ; the soldiers stood up to their knees in water; and one of them, named Matthias Helt, began to cough so violently that for fear he should cause their detection he en- treated his companions to run him through with his sword. Luckily they were not rigorously examined by the jjuard, and the sacrifice of the brave soldier was not required. It was not till midnight on the 3d of March (5 days after they had embarked) that the sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid; bare; but, by another piece of good fortune, they did not inspect the cargo very minutely; and Vandenberg, with .con- siderable cleverness, contrived by his wit and jokes to turn away their atten- tion, and lulling all suspicion, finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep, Captain Harauguer and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed; and the rest of the garrison, terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading from it into theROUTE 13.—ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. Sect. I. town, which was entered a few days afterwards by Prince Maurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which had contributed to its capture by the Dutch in 1590, and which had been carefully preserved by them. The surrender of Breda to Spinola has '/been commemo- rated by Velazquez in his finest picture, “ Las Lanzas,” now in the Madrid gallery. Span. Hdbk., 752.,- 1st. ed. Charles II. resided at Breda during part of the time of his exile from Eng- land. About 24 m. from Breda is Bois-le-duc (den Bosch or Hertogenbosch), a for- tress and chief town of N. Brabant, with 21,000 inhab. (Am, Goude Leeuw.) The Church of St. John (1312) is one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in Holland. It is well preserved, and has double aisles and apsidal chapels (date 1260—1312), an earlier chapel at the N. W. end, and a Lady-chapel N. of the choir. The Stadhuis is surmounted by a tower containing a fine set of ' chimes. ^ way to Bois-le-duc is Tilburg {Inn, Goude Leeuw) — a town of 11,700 inhab. — possessing extensive cloth manufactories. 2 Grootzundert. The last place in Holland : examination of passports here by the Dutch and at Westwesel (custom house) by the Belgian authorities. A desolate track of heath forms the border land of the two countries. 1|} Gooring. l;l Breschat. 1£ Antwerp. In Route 22. 2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY -WATER. Steamers daily in summer. The distance is about 80 miles. The time now taken by the new iron boats be- tween Antwerp and Rotterdam is 7 hours; the return passage is 2 hours longer, as the tide does not serve to pass the banks, which it does in going, and therefore a circuit is obliged to be made to avoid them. The voyage is preferable to the land journey in fine weather ; but the broad estuaries divid- ing the islands which form the province of Zealand are nearly as much agitated as the open sea by storms. After quitting Dort (R. 12.) the vessel threads a narrow channel, having the appearance of an artificial canal, called Dordsche Kill, leading into the wide estuary of the Hollands-Diep, and Volke Rak, arms of'the Maas, flowing between the Islands of Zealand. The places passed on the voyage from Dort are S’ Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the fortress of Willemstad, and forts' Ruy- ter and Oostgenstplaatz, 2 block-houses covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by the French to defend the entrance of the Hollands-Diep against the English, Fhilipsland, and Stavenis. On the l. lies Tholen, and on the r. the island of Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, memorable for the daring exploit of the Spaniards, under Requesens, 1575, who forded the channel called Keeten, by a passage 6 miles long, and before untried, wading for the most part up to their necks in water, and in the face of a fleet of boats manned by the Zea- landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by a deadly fire, and actually cut off their rear-guard. They thus gained posses- sion of the island, and soon after of Ziericksee. At Zijp a carriage is sta- tioned to convey passengers to or from Ziericksee {Inn, Hof van Holland), less than an hour’s drive; its square tower is conspicuous from the steamer. Passengers bound for Flushing (R. 18.), Middleburg, and Goes, are set down at Jerensdam. Emerging from the narrow channel of Tholeu, the steamer calls at the Jetty of the town and fortress of Bergen op Zoom {Inn, Hof van Hol- land), one of the strongest places in Holland, considered the masterpiece in the art of fortification of Coehorn, 7500 inhab., situated in a marshy country which can easily be laid under water. Among the numerous sieges and attacks which it has endured, the most interesting to the English is the attempt by Gen. Graham to carry the place by storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 1814, which was nearly successful. Two of the four attacking columnsHolland, route 13.—Rotterdam to Antwerp by water. 93 succeeded in establishing themselves on the ramparts, with very trifling loss. No. 1, the left column, attacked be- tween the Antwerp and Waterport gates; No. 2 attacked the right of the New Gate ; No. 3 was destined only to draw attention by a false attack near the Steinbergen gate ; No. 4, the right column, attacked at the entrance of the harbour, which could be forded at low water-. They were ultimately repulsed, by a bold attack of the garrison, with very severe loss. — The names of the British officers who fell on this occasion may be seen in the church, recorded on a monumental tablet erected by their brother officers. In the great Protes- tant Ch. is the tomb of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a bloody duel, 1613, with Lord Sackville, to fight which they came over from England. (Guar- dian, Nos. 129. 133.) The church, which has suffered greatly, is the rem- nant of a fine building. A line of posts and branches of trees point out to the pilot the very narrow channel called het Kreek Bak, close to the edge of the extensive sandbank called Verdronken, or Drowned Land, because overwhelmed by an inroad of the sea, and thus cut off from the island of Zuid Beveland. We enter the river Scheldt abreast of Fort Batz. The description of the voyage up the Scheldt to Antwerp will be found in Route 18. Travellers going from Antwerp to Rotterdam, and wishing to visit Breda, should land at Bergen op Zoom, drive to Breda, and sleep there, and rejoin the steamer at Moerdyk the next day. (From Moerdyk to Dort in steamer 1^ hour, Dort to Rotterdam 1| hour.) From Antwerp to Fort Batz 1*} hour, a delay of about ^ hour at Fort Batz on account of custom-houses: thence to Bergen ^ hour. Bergen op Zoom is a bad place to land at in wet weather; a long jetty and dyke has to be traversed before reaching the town. From Ber- gen op Zoom to Breda is a drive of 4 hours: there is an intermediate post station at Rosendaal; but the landlord of the Hof v. Holland, who is the postmaster, will furnish a carriage and horses which easily perform the whole distance. There is much heather land .between Bergen op Zoom and Breda. If the traveller should not find the steamer at Moerdyk, he may cross to Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and proceed thence to Dort, where steamers going to Rotterdam are easily fo und.94 SECTION II. BELGIUM. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 18. Passports. —19. Money. — 20. Posting. — 21. Diligences, — Hired Carriages, —Barridres,— Roads.—22. Railroads. — 23. Inns.—24. General View of Belgium. — 25. Belgian Cities and Architecture.—26. Chimes {Carillons').— 27. Works of Art; Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens. ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 15. Calais to Brussels by Lille — Railway - - 107 16. Calais to Courtrai, by Dun- kirk and Ypres - - 116 17. Calais to Ostend or Bruges - 119 18. London to Antwerp by the Schelde - - - - 120 19. Ghent to Brussels by Alost - 124 20. London or Dover to Ostend 124 21. Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Ter- monde, and Mechlin — Railway - 126 21 A. Bruges to .Courtrai—Rail- way - « - - 142 22. Ghent to Antwerp — Rail- way - - - - 143 22 A. Antwerp to Turnhout, and the Belgian Pauper Co- lonies - - - - 158 23. Antwerp to Brussels by Mech- lin— Railway - - 159 24. Brussels to Liege by Waterloo and Namur.—Descent of the Meuse to Maestricht - 168 ROUTE PAGE 25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle by Verniers, and visit to Spa — Railway - - 184 26. Brussels to Liege by Louvain — Railway - - 189 27. Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle by Maestricht - - 193 28. Brussels to Namur by Hal, Braine le Comte, and Charleroi—Railway - 195 28 A. Charleroi to Morialme — Railway - - - 195 29. Namur to Luxemburg and Treves - - - 196 30. Namur to Dinant and Givet by the Meuse - - 197 31. The Ardennes, Dinant to Hans sur Lesse, St. Hubert, and Bouillon - - 199 32. Brussels to Mons and Valen- ciennes, on the way to Paris — Railway - - 201 18. PASSPORTS. CUSTOM-HOUSE. The Belgian minister in London issues passports to all who may require them, gratis, at his house, 51. Portland Place, between 11 and 3. A passport may be obtained from the Belgian Consul in London (between the hours of 12 and 4 only), upon payment of 5 shillings. Excepting in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports are now seldom required by the police, in Belgium. More strictness is observed since the political events of 1848. The under-functionaries of the Belgian police, and custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dilatoriness, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting singularly with the invariable politeness and punctuality of similar officers in Prussia and Austria.19. MONEY. 20. POSTING. 95 Belgium. The search at the Belgian custom houses, especially on the French and German frontier, is strict, and frequently vexatious. Travelling carriages are not subject to duty on entering Belgium, when they are accompanied by their owners ; when they are new, and not so accompanied, they are subject to an ad valorem duty of 7 per cent. 19. MONET. French money is current throughout Belgium; indeed the currency of Bel- gium has the same coins and divisions as the French. The smaller Dutch coins are also met with, and travellers should beware of confounding cents with cen- times. At Brussels, even in good shops, cents are charged. A cent being -yjg of a guilder is equal to 2 centimes. • BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 9\d. English. Silver coins: — s. d. ^ franc = 25 centimes - = 0 2\ i English. g ditto = 50 ditto = 0 4| 5 ditto = =■ 4 0 Gold coins: — Louis d’or = 24 fr. = 19 0 Napoleon, or 20-franc piece = 15 10 FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. English Sovereign = fr. 25 c. 50 Crown 6 25 Shilling 1 25 Dutch William =10 Guilders = 21 16 Guilder = 2 15 Prussian Dollar = 3 75 Frederick d’or = 21 Bavarian Florin =20 pence English = 2 15 Kron Thaler = 5 81 Austrian Florin = 2 shillings English = 2 57 - The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 francs. Dutch Willems or 10-guilder pieces are the best gold coin for Belgium (see § 2. Holland). 20. POSTING.---BARRIERS AND ROADS. Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles En- glish, or about 1 Germ. mile). The precise length of the lieue de poste is 3,898 metres=4,263 yds. English = 2 Eng. m. 743 yds. 1,600 metres=l Eng. mile. In many places the roads are measured in kilometres. A kilometre = 1093 yards, or 4 furlongs and 213 yards, or 5 furlongs less 7 yards; in round numbers, g of an Eng. mile. Posting in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the old French footing. The following tariff is extracted from the “ Livre de Poste,” published at Brus- sels : — The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. The charge — postilion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. \96 20. POSTING. TARIFF. Sect. II. It is usual to give at least 1^ franc per post to the postilion; indeed, it is cus- tomary with English travellers to allow him 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, however, be restricted to the sum fixed by the tariff, when he has con- ducted himself improperly. ( Posting in France is now regulated by kilometres: the charges per kilometre are, for 2 horses at 4 sous each, 8 sous for a horse, for a third person, 3 sous. Postilion 16 sous). To make a constant practice of giving the French and Belgian post-boys 40 sous a-piece appears quite unnecessary. Our countrymen who do this can hardly be aware that they are paying at the rate of 4d. a mile (English), in a country where the necessaries of life are far cheaper than in England — while at home the customary rate of payment for a postilion is only 3d. a mile. This extravagant remuneration is, besides, contrary to the express injunction of the French “ Livre de Poste,” which says,—“ Les voyageurs conservent done la facultc de restreindre le prix des guides a 75 centimes, a titre de punition; et ils seront invites par les maitres de poste, et dans l’interet du service, a ne jamais depasser la retribution de 1 fr. 50 centimes par poste.” The posting regulations allot one horse to each person in a carriage; but allow the traveller, at his option, either to take the full complement of horses, at the rate of 30 sous each, or to take 2 or 3 at 30 sous, and to pay for the rest at 20 sous, without taking them. Thus a party of 4 persons in a light britzka may be drawn by 2 horses, paying 2 francs extra for the 2 persons above the number of horses; or 3 persons may travel with 2 horses, paying 80 sous for their horses per post. Where the carriage is so light as not to require as many horses as there are passengers, it is, of course, a saving of ten sous a post for each horse, to dispense with them, and it renders unnecessary the use of shafts. Tariff for Belgium, Piedmont, Savoy, and part of Switzerland; allowing 30 sous for each Horse, and 40 sous for each Postilion, per post. Includes one Postilion at 40 sous per post. Includes tw ea Postilions at 40 sous ch per Post. r sU Two Three Four Five Four Five Six Seven Eight Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. 3. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. 6. f. s. h 2 10 3 5 4 0 4 15 5 0 5 15 6 10 7 5 8 0 1 5 0 6 10 8 0 9 10 10 0 11 10 13 0 14 10 16 0 14 6 5 8 2 10 0 11 17 12 10 14 7 16 5 18 2 20 0 ii 7 10 9 15 12 0 14 5 15 0 17 5 19 10 21 15 24 0 8 15 11 7 14 0 16 12 17 10 20 2 22 15 25 7 28 0 2 10 0 13 0 16 0 19 0 20 0 23 0 26 0 29 0 32 0 24 11 5 14 12 18 0 21 7 22 10 25 17 29 5 32 12 36 0 24 12 10 16 5 20 0 23 15 25 0 28 15 32 10 36 5 40 0 24 13 15 17 17 22 0 26 2 27 10 31 12 35 15 39 17 44 0 3 15 0 19 10 24 0 28 10 30 0 34 10 39 0 43 10 48 0 34 16 5 21 2 26 0 30 17 32 10 37 7 42 5 47 2 52 0 34 17 10 22 15 28 0 33 5 35 0 40 5 45 10 50 15 56 0 34 18 18 24 7 30 0 35 12 37 10 43 2 48 15 54 7 60 0 4 20 0 26 0 32 0 38 0 40 0 46 0 52 0 58 0 64 0 The above table supposes that the full quota of horses are attached to the carriage : the following table is drawn up for cases in which some of the horses are dispensed with, and 20 sous paid instead.Belgium. 21.• modes op travelling. 22. railroads. 97 Postilions at 40 Sous a Post. \ Post. J Post. f Post. 1 Post. 2 Posts. 3 Posts. f. s. f. s. f. 8. f. s. 1 f. 8. f. 8. 2 persons and 2 horses at 5 francs per post - 1 5 2 10 r3 15 5 0 10 0 15 0 3 persons and 2 horses at 6 francs per post - 1 10 3 0 4 10 6 0 12 0 18 0 4 persons and 2 horses at 7 francs per post - 1 15 ;s 10 [5 5,’ 7 0 14 0 21 0 5 persons and 3 horses at francs per post - 2 n 4 5 s n 8 10 17 0 25 10 2 Postilions at 40 Sous each. 6 persons and 4 horses at 12 francs per post - 3 0 6 0 9 0 12 0 24 0 36 0 In fixing the number of horses to be attached, the postmaster takes into ac- count the nature, size, and weight of the carriage, and the quantity of luggage; a landau or berlin always requires 3 horses at least, generally 4; a chariot will require 3, while a britzka holding the same number of persons will need only 2. Royal Posts. —Half a post extra is charged upon post-horses arriving at or quitting Brussels, and | of a post extra on quitting Ghent, Liege, Mons, and Namur. 1 franc is charged for greasing the wheels. No duty is paid on tra- velling carriages in Belgium when they are accompanied by their owners. 21. TRAVELLING EV DILIGENCES, OR HIRED CARRIAGES. — BARRIERES. ROAD3 » Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4.); they belong to private individuals or companies. They* are frequently ill- managed and uncomfortable. Hired Carriages.— Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and un- willing to resort to the diligence, may have a voiture with two horses at the rate of about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the driver; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4-wheeled carriage, and 20 centimes for each horse, including the return. The barrier is marked by a lamp-post at the road-side. It is customary to pay the tolls to the post-boy instead of stopping at each, by which much time is saved. Roads. — Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which renders travelling over them very fatiguing, especially for ladies. The effect produced by them on carriage wheels is most'destructive : a single day’s journey over these chaussees will sometimes cause them to split and start, unless they are made very stout. The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpaved ground at the side as much as possible (allez sur le chemin de terre). After rain, however, when the side of the road is a mass of mud, and in frosty weather, when the deep ruts are as hard as stone, it would be difficult for him to comply. Private carriages are now taken on the railroad. carriage and horses. Barrieres.— There is usually 22. RAILROADS. Belgium, from the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost here than in England, F98 22. RAILROADS. Sect. II. and have in consequence extended their ramifications through all parts of the kingdom.' Mechlin is the point at which the two main lines intersect,—one traversing Belgium from east to west, — the other from north to south. Most of them have been constructed at the expense of the government of Belgium, but with much economy. The rate of travelling is only 12 or 15 m. an hour: but the fares, even in the first-class carriages, are less than in England; not exceeding Id. a mile; in- deed, travelling in Belgium has been rendered exceedingly cheap by the rail- ways, for those who have no carriages and very little baggage. Baggage is all weighed, and charged for separately at a high rate, except such small packages as may go under the passenger’s seat. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage to the farthest point, to await his arrival. The delay caused by weighing the baggage at every station, which is considerable, owing to there being only one weighing machine, is also avoided. A receipt is given for the baggage, referring to a number affixed to each article, on producing which at the point of destination, the whole is safely delivered to the owner. Baggage sent on to Cologne will not be detained at the frontier of Prussia, but will await the arrival of the owner at Cologne before being searched. The charges for conveying carriages are also high, especially for short dis- tances. For a four-wheeled carriage from Ostend to Liege, 129 francs; from Antwerp to Liege, 71 francs. It would save expense to send on a carriage under charge of a servant at once from Ostend to Liege, and vice versa. There are 3 Classes of Railway Carriages: 1. Diligences, or 1 st class, roomy, and provided with stuffed cushions and glass windows. 2. Chars-a-banc. The new carriages of the 2d class are great improvements upon the old ones: they afford ample accommodation, and contain 30 people, have cushioned benches and glass windows. The old chars-a-banc were detestable. 3. Waggons have wooden benches, and are open above and at the sides in summer, and covered in winter. The management of the railroads is better conducted now than at first, but still complaints are made of inattention and want of civility on the part of the servants. Travellers will act wisely in looking carefully to see that the change they receive in paying for their tickets is correct. Fares fixed by the Minister of Public Works in the undermentioned Places, for the Removal of Private Carriages from the Railway Stations to the Interior of the Towns. Names of the Stations. Number of Horses and Postilions. 1 Ho 1 Post rse,* ilion. 2 Hoi 1 Post ses, ilion. 3 Horses, 1 Postilion, 4 Horses, 1 Postilion. 4 Horses, 2 Postilions. f. c. f. c. f. c. f. c. f. Brussels 3 50 5 0 6 0 7 50 9 0 Antwerp 3 0 4 0 5 25 6 50 8 0 Bruges - 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 ' 7 0 Courtrai 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 0 Ghent - 3 0 4 0 5 25 6 50 8 0 Li£ge - 3 50 5 0 6 0 7 50 9 0 Malines 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 0 Mons 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 '0 Ostend - 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 099 Belgium. 23. inns. 24. general view of Belgium. The above fares comprise every expense that travellers have to pay, and post* masters or postilions have no right to exact more under any pretence whatsoever. A party travelling with their own carriage will find the expenses, including conveyances to and from the stations, very little below that of posting. As the stations are placed in the suburbs of the different towns, a good deal of time must usually be allowed for going to and from the station. The Omni- buses which traverse the streets of the towns, to collect passengers, set out so long before the time of the starting of the train, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove the evil. At the same time it must be said, that it is necessary to reach the station about a quarter of an hour before the train starts, at least at the stations where there are many passengers, owing to the delay arising from weighing the luggage. The fare is £ a franc, or l fr. with luggage. Most of the Station Houses at the smaller stations are small and inconvenient, and without any accommodations. At Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges, however, large and handsome stations have been built. At the smaller stations there is frequently no separation in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of different classes; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, must often endure the society of Belgian boors, redolent of garlic and tobacco. The moment of departure and arrival is marked by hurry, crushing, and con- fusion. Sometimes, too, a first-class passenger who has paid for his ticket is thrust into a second-class carriage, because there is no room for him elsewhere. Whenever the train arrives at a branch rail, a portion of the passengers are transferred to other carriages. Travellers, therefore, should be attentive to the notice given by the conducteur at Bruges, Ghent, Malines, and Mouscron. At Mechlin, where four lines converge, the confusion and delay from the crossing of trains, the changing of carriages, and shifting of baggage, is very great. Tra- vellers must take care first that they are not run over, and next that they are not carried off by the wrong train in a direction opposite to that in which they intended to go. 22 A. VIGILANTES. In all the Belgian towns, and at the Railway stations, a species of Cab, called Vigilantes, may be hired, which for 1 franc, or, before 7 o’clock in the morning, for fr., will convey the traveller and his baggage to any part of the town, and release him ffom the pestilent myrmidons and commissionaires of the inns. The tariff of charges is usually hung up in every carriage. 23. BELGIAN INNS. The average charges are, for a bed, 1 £ to 2j francs. Dinner, table-d’hote, 2 to 3 francs. Dinner-a-part, 5 francs.* Supper, table-d’hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs- and meat, 1 franc 50 cent. ; tea or coffee, and bread and butter, 1 franc to 1^ francs ; servants, 75 centimes to 1 franc each. In the principal inns of the large cities, the charges are higher : at Brussels they are very dear. Prices have risen in Belgium within the last few years. 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. In many respects the preliminary description of Holland (§ 8.) will apply to Belgium; the long connection between the two people having produced simi- larity in the habits of both, though, it must be confessed, there are great,distinc- tinctions in character. The northern and eastern provinces of Belgium,-in their flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10.) and dykes (§ 9.) can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of Holland.100 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. Sect. II. This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that, in traversing it, it has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The southern provinces, on the contrary, have an opposite character ; they consist, in a great degree, of a rugged district of hills covered with dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. It is but a thinly peopled district; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, are a rough and hardy race. The northern provinces are further distinguished from the southern by their language. A line, drawn nearly due E. from the river Lys, at Menin, passing a little to the S. of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Liege, in fact along the S. frontier of Limburg, marks the boundary of the Fle- mish and Walloon languages. The people living on the N. of this line speak Flemish ; those on the S., Walloon, a dialect allied to the old French of the 13th century. The Walloon and French part of Belgium is full of interest to the genealogist and herald. Among works containing interesting information may be named, Histoire de la Ville et Chateau de Huy, &c., 1641; Chapeauville, Gesta Pontificum Leodiensium ; Hennicourt, Miroir des Nobles de la Hesbaie, 1673—1791; Delvaux, Diet. Geogr. et Statist, de la Province de Liege; Delices des Pays Bas; Lustre, &c. du Brabant: in Flemish. Chronyckle Van Holland enz. Nederlandsche Oudtheden ; Rymchronyk: Hollandse Jaarboeken. The late kingdom of the Netherlands was built up of the fragments of other states, and “kept together rather by the pressure of surrounding Europe, than by any internal principles of cohesion.” The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any permanent union : they are French in inclination, and Roman Catholics in re- ligion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals ; there is nothing marked in their characters; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calcula- tion of gain which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they are equally devoid of the high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succes- sion of foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spur of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by “their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves Into communes or corporations, and began to exercise the right of deliberating on their own affairs; elected bailiffs (echevins); obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as a trophy or temple of their liber- ties. But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of the most distinguished living British historian, — “ Liberty never wore a more unamiable countenance than among these burghers, who abused the strength she gave them by cruelty and insolence.” — Hallam. They have suffered from their faults; their • government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been the scene of war for centuries: a mere arena for combat — the Cockpit of Europe. The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement -of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse- ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations, shouldBelgium. 25. Belgian cities, and their architecture. 101 be well read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium : and when he repairs to Ghent,’- let him not fail to carry Henry Taylors “ Philip van Artevelde” in his hand. 25. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR. ARCHITECTURE. “ Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill in the middle ages, eminently* worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they hear, to illustrate fully a history of the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of Italian art.”—G. Godwin, jun., F.R.S. “ It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school,—those fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact, this rich in- termixture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, produces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street, as the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker.” — Sir Walter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches; in the Ne- therlands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- houses. The Town Halls (Hotels de Ville, Halles, &e.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention: they are most perfect examples of the Gothic style; and it may truly be asserted that no- where else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to approach in grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to the towns when they first acquired communal rights, none seemed to have been deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a belfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. “ The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and offers numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases even in a single city, examples may be found of the different styles of building which have prevailed at intervals, say for 50 years, from the 11 th or 12th century up to the present time. At Tournay, a most interesting old town, there are several exceedingly ancient houses ; one of an interesting character is situated near the Ch. of St. Brice. The whole is of stone, and terminates in. a gable. The windows, about 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide, are each divided into 2 open- ings, by a small column with plain leafed capital. The adjoining front is pre- cisely similar. In the Rue des Jesuits there are some houses of the same character, but of a somewhat more advanced period. The columns and caps are nearly the same as those before mentioned, and the upper part, perhaps, 50 or 60 ft. in extent, consists wholly of windows and small piers alternately. Ghent and Malines display similarly ancient houses. An early advance upon this ar- rangement would probably be the introduction of a transom to divide the windows into 4, and so to form a croisee. In the gable of an old house at Ghent, near the Hotel de Ville, appears a large pointed window, quite ecclesiastical in aspect, with mullions, traceried head, and label. A house near the Grand Place at Tournay affords a very perfect example of the application of pointed architecture to a street front, at the beginning of the 16th century; and the Hotel d’Egmont at Ghent shows another application of the same style when it was beginning to exhibit symptoms of decline; as also, on a much more elaborate scale, does the well-known Maison des Francs Bateliers in the same city. “ Near the Eglise de Chateau at Tournay is a large building, now the Horse102 26. CHIMES. Sect. II. Infirmary For the artillery, which would seem to be an example at a later stage of the decline. It is constructed of red brick and stone, and presents gables, pointed-headed windows, other square windows divided by mullions, and large dormei% in the roof. The mouldings, however, are Italianised; the discharging arches,, partly stone and partly brick, which occur even over the pointed-headed openings, are made into adornments, and all the ornaments which appear are of a mixed design. Later still, the line of the gable became altered into a scroll, the mullions of the windows disappeared, and the Gothic panelling on the face of the building gave place to pilasters and entablatures, elaborately adorned with figures, fruit, and foliage, as may be seen in numberless examples remaining in most of the towns.” — G. Godwin, jun., F.R.S. The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and riches; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence ; they are, in fact, civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu- nicipal government; and sometimes of courts of justice. .Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, Liege, Tournay, and, above all, at Antwerp. The churches are usually open till noon; but as the side chapels, the choir, and the finest pictures are locked tip, it is necessary, even at the open hour, to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see them. Notwithstanding the display of splendour in individual buildings, it is difficult to traverse, in the present day, the deserted and inanimate streets of the great Belgian cities without a feeling of melancholy at the aspect of decay which they exhibit. They have lost their pre-eminence in commerce and manufactures; their population has shrunk, in many instances, to one half of its original amount; the active arm of industry is paralysed; and the looms, which once supplied not only Europe, but Asia, with the most costly stuffs, are now supplanted by the colonies which Flanders itself sent forth into' England and Italy. Within the last few years, large sums have been laid out in repairing and re- storing the principal buildings in Belgium. Amongst those restored may be mentioned St. Gudule and the town hall at Brussels, the cathedral at Antwerp, and St. Bavon at Ghent, and the cathedral at Tournay. The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses in monkish Latin: — “ Nobilibus * Bruxella viris, Antverpia j-nummis, Gandavum \ laqueis, formosis Burga § puellis, Lovanium || doctis, gaudet Mecklinia stultis.” 26. chimes (carillons) and clocks. Chimes, or carillons, were invented in the Low Countries; they have certainly been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. They are of two kinds; the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ, which always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery; the other of a * Brussels was the seat of the Court, and, therefore, the residence of the nobility, t Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. j The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. $ Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty girls. || The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. 1 The joke about the wise men of Mechlin is explained in the description of that town.103 Belgium. 27. schools of yan eyck and rubens. superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys. Tn all the great towns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in existence at Bruges in 1300 — thus the claim of the town of Alost to the inven- tion, a. n. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half-an.hour beforehand: thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes twelve. 27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES *-------THE SCHOOLS OF VAN EYCK AND * - ' RUBENS. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection : this country has had the rare distinction, at two distinct periods, of producing two different Schools of Painting; the founders of which, in both instances, equalled and even surpassed their contemporaries through- out the whole of Europe in the excellence of their works. The founders of the two schools of painting were Van Eyck and Rubens. The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in Belgium, and nowhere else to be found in equal perfection, form another great attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by every traveller of taste. ‘ The brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck, the founders of the early school,, are“believed to have flourished betwen 1370 and 1445. The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which enjoyed the same'privileges as any other corporation, and attained the highest reputation under Philip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose society he took great delight. It was in consequence of his patronage that the brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) settled there, and have left hehind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, some of which still remain at Bruges. In the days of the Van Eycks the corporation consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the. books, and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. Van Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art, as he introduced some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of Van Eyck, we find that an .Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey* to Flanders on purpose to learn this new method; »nd it is also recorded that Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending further. The depth and brightness of Van Eyck’s colours, which, if they can be equalled, are certainly not to be surpassed.in the present day, and their perfect preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with wh^t rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important department of painting. The works of the brothers Van Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for. this reason, perhaps, appreciated as they deserve in England. With them must be asso- * See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting; German and Dutch Schools.104 27. CHARACTER OF RUBENS. Sect. II. dated Hans Hemling (or Memling), another artist of the same school, whose name even is hardly known except to a very few among us. His masterpieces exist at Bfuges in the hospital of St. John, and in the Academy: no traveller should omit to see them. If he have any love for art, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their brilliancy of colouring, and purity of tone. . In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must be borne in mind, that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate and study from : the path they struck out was entirely original; they had no models but nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a meay a detached fort about l£ m. distant on the 1. bank. It is the least thriving place in the Dept, du Nord, and appears to be fall- ing off in population, and though it covers more ground than Lille, does not contain half as many inhabitants. Like the Flemish towns, it has a picturesque Beffroi in its market-place, rising above the Gothic Hotel de Ville, built at the end of the 15th century. It possesses a library of 30,000 vols., a collection of pictures, and contains one of the 3 royal cannon founderies in France.' The college or seminary of Douai,- founded in 1569 by an Englishman, Cardinal Allen, has educated Roman Catholic priests for England and Ire- land almost continuously from that time. O’Connell studied here. There is a considerable trade in flax here. Every year, in the early part of July, a curious procession parades the streets112 ROUTE 15.—LILLE TO BRUSSELS. Sect. II. of Douai, consisting of a giant’ of osier, who is called Geant Gay ant, dressed in armour, 30 ft. high, attended by his wife and family, of proportionate size ; the giant doll is moved by 8 men enclosed within it. Montigny, St. Sormain, St. Wallers, St. Raismes, St. Valenciennes, St. Valenciennes (7m»s : La Poste ; H. des Princes, very good, comfortable, and newly furnished —j. m. ; Le Canard ; La Biche ; La Cour de France), a for- tress of the second class, with a strong citadel constructed by Vauban, is a dark and ill-built town, lying on the Scheldt, and has a population of 22,000 souls. In 1793 it was taken by the Allies, under the Duke of York and General Abercromby, after a siege of 84 days and a severe bombardment, which de- stroyed a part of the town: it was yielded back next year. In the grand square, or Place d’Armes, are situated the Hotel de Ville, a tine building, half Gothic half Italian in style, built 1612, and containing 3 pictures by Rubens (?), brought from the Abbey of St. Amand; the Beffroi, 170 ft. high, built 1237, fell 1843, and caused a serious loss of life ; the Theatre. The Church of St. Gery. is the principal one. The cele- brated Valenciennes lace is manufac- tured here, and a considerable quantity of fine cambric. This is the birth- place of Watteau, the painter ; of Frois- sart, the historian; and of the minister D’Argenson. On entering France, passports must be delivered up here, and on quitting the country they are strictly examined by the police. The country around Valenciennes offers no picturesque beauty ; the rivers are sluggish, and have flat, uninterest- ing banks. For the Railway hence to Brussels, see Route 32. Lille to Brussels, Route (2), 150 kilom. 9 Roubaix, St. This industrious town, of 24,000 inhab.,has considerable cotton manufactories. Near it the En- glish, under the Duke of York, met with a severe defeat from the French under Pichegru, May 18. 1794, losing 1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon. 3 Tourcoing, St. This town, witli 20,000 inhab., is famed for its manu- facture of table linen. 5 Mouscron, St. Here is the Bel- gian custom-house, and the junction of the railway from Tournay. 12 CouRTftAv (see Route 16.). 6 Haerlebeke, St. 9 Waereghem, St. About 4 miles N.W. of this is the village of Roos- becke, near which Philip van Artevelde, the brewer of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the French, and, with 20,000 of his countrymen, perished in the bat- tle.—See Taylor's Philip van Artevelde. 5 Olsene, St. On Sun. Mon. & Fri. 7 Deynze, St. This town (4000 in- hab.), is situated on the 1. bank of Lys. On the opposite bank, between the rail- road and the river, is Peteghem.—The old castle here was the residence of the French kings of the second race. A carriage may be hired at Deynze to Oudenarde ( Fr. Audenarde). Inns .* Castelrij ; Lion d’Or ; 12 m. from the railway. It is a town of 5670 inhab., on the Scheldt, containing one of the handsomest Town Halls in the Nether- lands, though small in size, built 1525— 30, in the Gothic style, with Tudor arches at the ends under the facade, sur- mounted by an elegant tower, date 1529. The entrance to the Council chamber is a remarkably beautiful specimen of wood carving in the style of the Re- naissance, executed 1530, by Paul van der Schelden. The church of St. Wal- burga is also handsome, possesses an Assumption by Crayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : N. Dame de Parade is of elegant Gothic (date 1239), and contains 2 old monuments. The tower called het Saeekxsen, and the bridge of the Porte d’Eyne, are very ancient structures. This is the birthplace of Margaret Duchess of Parma, governess of the Low Countries under Philip II., and natural daughter of Charles V., by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. The battle of Oudenarde, foughtROUTE 15.—LILLE TO BRUSSELS. 113 Belgium. under its walls in 1708, was gained over the French by the English, in a great measure through the personal prowess and exertions of Marlborough. 5 Nazareth, St. 12 Ghent Stat. Hence to Mechlin, see Route 21.; and for the Railway from Mechlin to Brussels, see Route 23. LiUe to Brussels, Route (3), 134 kilom. 9 Roubaix, St. 3 Tourcoing, St. . 5 Mouscron, St. At Mouscron travellers from Lille to 1 See previous Route (2). Tournay, and vice versa, change car- riages. Nechin, St. Templeuve, St. Tournat Stat. (Flem. Doornick). Inns : H. de l’lmperatrice, clean : — Singe d’Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable chan- nel, and form at the same time hand- some Quais on each side. It is a flou- rishing and increasing town, a place of great manufacturing industry, stockings and carpets being the articles chiefly made here. The carpets commonly called Brussels come in fact from Tour- nay ; the art of weaving them was brought hither, according to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the Crusades, and learned it from the Saracens. The principal manufac- tory (called la manufacture royale), though fallen off, still occupies 90 looms, and about 2400 persons, and is worth the attention of strangers. Tournay is supposed to be the Civitas Nerviorum mentioned by Ca:sar in the Commentaries. Immense sums have been expended on the fortifications since the peace, and a new citadel con- structed. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses on the outer line nearest to France, and endured many sieges from English, French, and Span- iards. The most memorable, perhaps, was that of 1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the defence was con- ducted by a woman, the Princess d’Es- pinoi, of the noble family of La Laing. She is said to have united the skill of a prudent general to the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and at length only yielded to capitulation when three-fourths of her garrison had fallen around her. Henry VIII. took Tournay in 1518 ; and bestowed the see on his favourite Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of 'Francis I.’s interest in obtaining for him the papacy, not only yielded up the bishopric, but induced his master to sell the town to the French king. The most interesting edifice in the town is the Cathedral, conspicuous from all sides with its 5 towers: it is exceedingly fine, especially in its inte- rior. It was founded by King Childe- ric, whose capital Tournay was. The existing edifice is-in great part Roman- esque, a variety of the style called by us Norman, which prevails on the Rhine. The W. front has been disfigured by various alterations; a groined porch in the pointed style extends the whole length of the front, and above it a large pointed window has been intro- duced, so as to destroy entirely its ori- ginal character. The sculpture about the porch is in part very ancient, but the greater part is modern. The cathedral is entered by 2 doors, one on the N. side of the nave, the other on the S., adjoining the transept. The N. door is of the transition period. It consists of a semicircular archway beneath a pointed trefoil arch, the whole profusely adorned with ranges of sculptured figures, animals, and foliage. The nave has an aisle on each side, separated by piers and small columns, bearing semi- circular arches, which in various parts approach the horse-shoe form. Above these is a second range of piers and arches, of similar or greater height than the first, forming the front of a large gallery, extending the width of the aisles. Over these is a series of arches against the wall, springing from short piers. The clerestory and the vaulted ceiling were built in 1777, and took the place of the ancient wooden roof; they will shortly be restored to their original appearance. The rest of the nave dates from the 11th century. All114 the capitals of the lower columns in the nave are sculptured to represent foliage,* and are exceedingly sharp and clear. In earlier times they were all painted and gilt, and further decorated by Scripture mottoes round the abacus. Much of the stone-work is rough, and has been covered with stucco ; the co- lumns and other parts that are exposed are of Tournay stone polished. The four great arches at the junction of the cross are pointed, and have also been embellished by oolour, much of which is still visible. The semicircular absis at each end of the transept is good. At the bottom, 6 lofty columns, 2jj ft. in diameter, and about 24 ft. high, placed at a short distance from the wall, sup- port narrow semicircular arches raised on legs. Over these are two triforia and a clerestory, and the whole termi- nates in a half dome, with plain ribs converging to a point. Originally the choir was about £ the length of the building, and terminated in an absis similar to those of the transepts. The present choir, begun 1100, in the point- ed style, 110 ft. high, separated from the nave by a screen (date 1566), en- riched with marble, surmounted by a statue of St. Michael, is enclosed by a series of horse-shoe, acutely pointed arches of the lightest and most graceful proportions. In each spandril of these arches is a circular ornament in Mosaic work, and above rise a very elegant triforium and lofty clerestory. Behind the triforium is a series of peculiar quatrefoil lights, blocked up and un- known until lately (as, indeed, was the whole of the triforium), but now again filled with stained glass. The pillars in the choir were originally constructed with that daring which characterises many of the earlier efforts of pointed architecture, and soon gave symptoms of insufficiency. They were then strengthened by additional masonry at the back, and even now are remarkable for their lightness and elegance. Be- hind the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutherius (first bishop of Tournay, in the 6th century), of silver gilt, of very rich workmanship, surrounded by figures of the 12 apo- Sect. II. sties. At the first French revolution, this church was not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and defaced ; its sculpture broken, and its painted glass for the most part demolished. The shrine escaped through the zeai of a citizen of the town, who buried it. The chapter is now supported by the Government, which hasfclso laid out 20,000/. most judiciously in restoring the building. Many paintings covered with white- wash have been brought to light. At the back of the altar is some rich sculp- ture by Duquesnoy, and the marble monument of a Prince of Solms. There is also a painting by Rubens, — The Souls in Purgatory; and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, is the coronation mantle of the Emperor Charles V. King Childeric I., the father of Clovis, and whom some consider the real founder of the French monarchy, died in 482, and was buried in the church of St. Brice, on the opposite side of the Schelde. In his coffin were found a great many curiosities, new deposited in the Biblotheque du Roi at Paris; among them the “ Golden Bees,” with which his royal robes are supposed to have been studded ; they were in con- sequence adopted by Buonaparte in his coronation vestments, in preference to the fleurs de Its, as symbols of the im- perial dignity. The ancient Convent of St. Martin, with its Gothic church, is now converted into an Hotel de Ville : it likewise contains a Museum, and ad- joining it is a shady walk called the Park, and the Botanic Garden. There are some interesting specimens of do- mestic architecture in Tournay. See § 25. p. 101. Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to the throne of Henry VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes mur- dered in the Tower, was, by his own confession, the son of a Jew of Tour- nay. At Vaux, on the banks of the Schelde, 2 m. from Toutnay, is a square struc- ture with turrets in the corners, proba- bly of Roman origin. The valley of the Schelde around Tournay is very fertile, producing much ROUTE 15.—LILLE TO BRUSSELS.Belgium. route 15.—lllle to Brussels. 115 corn. Lime is found in abundance ; it is- quarried in many places, and ex- ported far and wide. About 5 miles S. E. of Tournay, on the right of the post road to Ath, after passing the village of Bourquembrays, lies the battle field of Fontenoy, where the English under the Duke of Cum- berland, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 1745, by the French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be unable to sit on horseback, or to wear armour, and was therefore carried in a litter. Though the result was unfavourable to the English, the skill shown by their commanders and the bravery of the troops were highly creditable to them. The fortune of the day was in some measure decided by the bravery of the Irish battalions in the pay of France, who were driven abroad at that period by the political state of Ireland. Bary, St. Lewze, St. A town of 5000 inhab. Ligne, St. Ath,St.—(/««*.• Cigne,good; Paon d’Or.)—Ath on the Dender, with 8500 inhab.,'is a fortress upon which VaU- ban employed his utmost skill, and for which.' since the battle of Waterloo, modern art has done all that is prac- ticable to increase its strength. It is a flourishing manufacturing town. The principal buildings are the H6- tel de Vtlle, a structure of the time of the Archdukes Albert and Isabella (1600), and the Church of St. Julien, founded-in 1393, destroyed by light- ning, except its E. end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, but without its tall steeple. The most ancient monument in the town is a tower called Tour du Burhard, which probably dates from 1150, About 6 m. from Ath, not far- off the road, is Belceil, the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligne, cele- brated as a diplomatist, a soldier, and an author. He gives in his letters a long description of his country seat and gardens ; they were laid out in the formal French taste by le Notre,' and excited the admiration of Delille, who mentions this spot in his poem Les Jardins, as — “ Belceil tout & la fois magnifique et cham- petre.” Both Voltaire and Delille visited the Prince in his retirement here. The Castle is an ancient Gothic edifice, built in 1146, surrounded by water. It contains some interesting historical relics and works of art; paintings by Diirer, Holbein, Van Dyk, Velazquez, L. da Vinci, Salv. Rosa; also a col- lection of firearms, from their invention. The number and length of the avenues and high hornbeam hedges, with win- dows cut in them, intersecting the grounds in all directions, form the sin- gular and characteristic feature of the Park. The cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm has been introduced at Mes- lin l’Eveque, near Ath, apparently with good success. An extensive esta- blishment (Magnanerie) was formed here by the government of the king of Holland. posts from Ath, on the post road to Brussels, is Enghien, a town of 3680 inhabs. It was an ancient possession of the houses of Luxemburg and Bour- bon, but was'sold by Henry IV., king of France, to the Duke d’Aremberg, in 1607, and still remains in the pos- session of his family. The Chateau of the Duke was destroyed at the French Revolution; but the beautiful park and gardens deserve notice. They served; it is said, as a model for the famous gardens of Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with avenues, temples, statues, canals, basins of water, &c. 7 avenues of beech and horse- chestnuts diverge from a temple in the park. A fine conservatory has recently been added. Maffles, St. Attre, St. Brugelette, St. Lens, St. Jurbise Stat. Here the railway joins that from Valenciennes and Mons; for the rest of the route to Brussels, see Route 32.116 ROUTE 16. —CALAIS TO COURTRAI. Sect. II. ROUTE 16. CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND YFIIES. 58 kilometres and 13 Belg. posts = 83 Eng. m. Road good, but paved. Diligences twice a day to Dunkirk, in 5 hours. 24 Gravelines. A fortress and de- solate-looking small town, with grass growing in its streets: it has 3000 in- hab. “ It is,” to use the words of an old writer, “ very strong, by reason that they can drown it round in 4 hours, so as no land shall be within a mile of it.” It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 20 miles long by 12 broad; almost all this can be laid under water in case of need, to ward off a hostile invasion on this side of France. At present this district supports a population of 60,000. It is protected from the sea by the dunes or sand-hills, and is gradually being drained by its inhabitants. It would cost the arrondissement 10 millions of francs to repair the damage caused by admitting the waters upon the land. The Emperor Charles V. here paid a visit to Henry VIII. on his return from his interview with Francis I. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. ' Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 20 Dunkirk; Fr. Dunkerque(II. de Flandres, very good, and not dear; table d’hote at 6, good, 2^ fr. ; breakfast with eggs, 1 fr. 75 c.;—Chaperon Rouge), a considerable fortified town and seaport, with 25,400 inliab. Large sums have been expended in endeavouring to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing of the tide, and dis- charged at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. They are said to have failed in producing the results anticipated. Dunkirk ne- vertheless is tbe best harbour which France possesses in the N. Sea, and ranks fourth in the value of its exports and imports of all the seaports in the kingdom. It serves as the outlet for the manufacturing district of the Dept, du Nord. “ It is one of the cleanest towns in France, with wide streets, well paved ; living cheap ; baths, very good.”—\D. C. The Quai, usually crowded with vessels, and Pier, extending far into the sea, are worth seeing; so is the Corin- thian portico of the church of St. Eloi, a handsome but most incongruous frontispiece to a Gothic building; in front of it is a fine detached Gothic belfry, containing the chimes. The interior of the church is fine ; it has a double side aisle. There is an English Protestant church, Rue des Sceurs Blanches—a proof of the number of British resi- dents. A statue of Jean'Bart, a famous sea- captain, born here (temp. Louis XIV,), stands in the great market-place. Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel built by St. Eloi in the 7th cen- tury among the dunes or sand-hills, and thence comes its name—“ Church of the Dunes.” Here was equipped the Flemish division of the Spanish Armada, designed to combine in the invasion of England under the com- mand of the Prince of Parma; but that skilful general, perhaps foresee- ing the result, refrained from putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after having been hardly won by the English, under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spaniards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIV. for 6 millions of livres, in 1662. By the treaty of Utrecht (1715), the French were compelled to demolish the town and fortifications ; and an English commissioner was actually sent hither to ascertain that the stipulations of the treaty were complied with to the let- ter ; a source of deep humiliation to French pride, but of more immediate misery to the poor inhabitants. The port and fortifications were not re- stored and rebuilt until 1740. The country around is little better than a dreary waste of sand-hills, thrown up by the wind. It was in the neigh- bourhood of them that Tureune de-ROUTE 16.---CALAIS TO COURTRAI. 117 'Belgium. feated, in 1658, the Spanish army, under Don John of Austria and the great Cond£, who had sided at that time with the enemies of France in the bat- tle of the Dunes. The siege of the town had been commenced .by Maza- rin, at the dictation of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with artillery, advanced to meet the French, by marching close to the sea. Conde remonstrated in vain with Don John against a measure so perilous: “ Vous ne connoissez pas, M. de Turenne;” said he, “on ne fait pas impunement des fautes devant un si grand homme and just as the ac- tion began, he turned to the young Duke of Gloucester, and asked if he had ever been in a battle before. “ No,” answered the Duke. “ Then you will see one lost in half an hour.” The action was commenced by 6000 En- glish soldiers of Cromwell, commanded by Lockhart, his ambassador, who formed the left wing of the French army, and distinguished themselves eminently : their charge carried every- thing before it, and contributed not a little to the result. The Duke of York (afterwards James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, at the head of a regi- ment of cavaliers; and it was from them that their fellow-countrymen suffered most. The Spaniards lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk surrendered ten days after in consequence of this defeat. There is a canal from Dunkirk to Furnes, Ostend, and Bruges, traversed daily by a barge. Diligences daily to Ostend. Steamers to London and Hamburg every Satur- day; to St. Petersburg, the 1st and 15th of every month. A railway connects Dunkirk with the line from Calais to Lille and Paris at Hazebrouck, passing by Bergues and Cassel. Its length is 41 kilome- tres = 25| miles. 8 Bergues, St. (see below). 9 Esquelbecq, St. 7 Arneeke, St. 7 Cassel, St. (Inns: H. Cassel; H. du Sauvage.) It is worth while, in fine ■ weather, to stop here for a short time to enjoy the view. Cassel is an ancient town of4234 inhab. Here at length the country becomes more interesting. Cas- sel is most agreeably situated, com- manding one of the most extensive views in Europe. Although it has no striking features, it cannot be contem- plated without deep interest, as ex- hibiting on a clear day an unusually extensive tract of highly cultivated and productive country. Its most remark- able feature is, that the horizon is almost always equally distant in every direction, as no rising ground inter- rupts the sight. It extends over the flat and fertile plains of Flanders, and as far as the white cliffs of England, into 3 different kingdoms ; includes 32 towns and 100 villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Ypres, Ostend, and the beau- tiful steeple of Hazebrouck are the most prominent objects: no fresh water is visible in this vast expanse. Mount Cassel is only 800 English ft. high: it was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical survey car- ried on during the reign of Napoleon. A small map of the country visible may be purchased on the spot for 20 sous. The gardens and grounds of the late General Vandamme, who was born here, are commonly shown to strangers, and are very tastefully laid out. The stable is worthy of remark on account of its size. “ Flemish is the general language of the entire population in the northern parts of the Dept, du Nord: it is spoken at Cassel, and as far as Watel.” -- Gm Cm Lm 10 Hazebrouck Stat. (See Rte. 15.). Route to Courtrai continued by railway to—> Bergues (Inn: Poste — small, but cheap), a small and poor fortified town of 6000 inhab., situated on an elevation, surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, called Moere, formerly waste and in- salubrious; but having been drained within a few years, by the construction of hydraulic works, they are now be- com;ng more productive and less un-118 ROUTE 16.---YPRES. COURTRA1. Sect. II. wholesome. Though only a fortress of the third class, the possession of Bergues has been deemed of such con- sequence in every war, that it has been 8 times taken and retaken, and 9 times pillaged, in the course of 8 centuries. It has a picturesque beffroi 150 ft. high. A very important corn market is held here every Monday. The gates are closed at 10, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The French frontier and custom- house is reached at Oest Cappel: here the “ acquit a caution” (p. 107.) must be delivered up. The country through which the road passes is most fertile, enclosed with hedges, and abounding in wood, which gives it, though flat, a pleasing English character. Large quantities of hops are cultivated in this district. if Rousbrugge, a Belgian village. 2J Ypres. (Jans: A la Chatellenie; — Tete d’Or.) A fortified town of 15,750 inhab., in a fertile plain. The marshes around it have, for the most part, been drained, and it is conse- quently less unhealthy than formerly. The kind of linen called diaper, that is, cl Ypres, was made here: the English word comes from the corrupt pronun- ciation of the name of the place where it was manufactured. Thread is the principal article made here at present. The extent and prosperity of its manufactures had raised the number of its inhabs. to 200,000 souls in the 14th century, at which period 4000 looms were constantly at work. Its importance has long since de- parted; and the only relic which re- mains to prove its former greatness is the Town House, called Les Halles, in the great market-place, a building of prodigious size, and in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a stately tower in the centre. It was begun in 1230, and continued till 1342. The E. end, supported on pillars, was added in 1730. It was, in fact, a cloth hall, devoted to the service of the cloth manufacturers in olden times. Close to it is the Cathedral of St. Martin, a Gothic edifice of considerable size, but not of great beauty. It contains a carved pulpit, and a picture representing, in compartments, the story of the Fall of Man, attributed to Van Eyck, but bearing the date 1525, and probably by Peter Porbus. It is well coloured, and a faithful representation of the hu- man form, but without grace or beauty. A flat stone in the choir marks the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect called Jansenists, so long persecuted by the Jesuits. He was Bishop of Ypres, and died 1638. Menin (7»w: Faucon), on the Lys. Another frontier fortress, with 7640 inhabs., very dismal and lifeless; it lies quite close to the boundary line of France, which actually touches the glacis. On the way to Courtrai is the vil- lage of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of York was defeated in 1793, by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. Courtrai, (Flemish Cortryk). Inns: Poste, called also the Damier, good and cheap ; table d’hote at 12£; Lion d’Or. A manufacturing town of 19,500 inhabs., on the Lys, remarkable for its cleanliness, and for the table damask and other linen made here, which is sent to all parts of Europe. An im- mense quantity of flax of very fine quality is cultivated in the surrounding plain, and supplies not only the manu- factories of the town, but many of the markets of Europe. There are large bleaching-grounds in the neighbour- hood, the waters of the Lys being sup- posed to possess qualities favourable for bleaching, as well as for the steeping of flax. The first Flemish cloth manu- facture was established here in 1260. The principal buildings are the Hdtel de Ville in the market-place, a plain but neat Gothic edifice, rebuilt 1526. It contains two very singular carved chimney-pieces, containing figures of the Virtues and Vices, bas- reliefs of subjects relating to the mu- nicipal and judicial destination of the building, and to events in the early history of the town, including a pro- cession of women on horseback, holding a banner in one hand and a dagger inBelgium. route 17.—calms to Bruges. 119 the other. Many of them may be styled caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the date of 1587 and 1595; the statues of Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert and Isabella, occupy conspicu- ous places. The Church of Noire Dame is a Gothic edifice, founded 1238, by Bald- win, Count of Flanders, and Empr. of Constantinople, but modernised, except a small portion on one side, and lined with marble. It contains behind the high altar a celebrated painting by Vandyk, the Raising of the Cross. The drawing is bold and powerful, remind- ing one of Rubens; only the colouring is inferior to his in freshness. The current story, that the canons of the church, being dissatisfied with the pic- ture when sent home, abused it before the artist’s face, and that he in conse- quence refused to paint any others for them, after they had confessed their error, is rendered doubtful, by the dis- covery at Ghent of Vandyk’s autograph letter, acknowledging with thanks the receipt of the money for the painting, as well as of some goffres, a thin sweet cake, for which Courtrai is still cele- brated, presented to him by the canons. Here is a beautiful tabernacle or shrine of carved stonework, in the richest Go- thic style,—date probably end of the 15th century, — for holding the sacra- ment. Courtrai once boasted of a curious clock, in which 2 figures, male and fe- male, came out alternately to strike the hours. This gave rise to the saying ap- plied to a husband and wife who are never seen together : “ Ils s’accordent comme Jacquemart (i. e. Jaken (Jem) op de markt) et sa femme.” Charles the Bold carried it to Dijon in 1382. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the famous Battle of Spurs, 1302 (not to be confounded with the “ Battle of Spurs,” in which Henry VIII. put the French chivalry to flight, 1513), gained by an army of 20,000 Flemings, principally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, under , the Count de Namur, over the French under the Count d’ Artois, in which the latter.was slain, and with him 1200 knights, while several thousand common soldiers were left dead on the field. 700 gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the deadband hung up as a trophy in the church of the convent of Groen- angen, now destroyed : from this cir- cumstance the battle receives its name. A small chapel, built 1831, on the right of the road, a little way outside the Porte de Gand, marks the centre of the battle-field. Railroads to Ghent and to Lille (see R. 15.), with a branch to Tournay (p. 113.), turning off at Mouscron, where the Belgian Custom House is. ROUTE 17. CALAIS TO OSTEND OR BRUGES. 66 kilometres to Furnes: thence to Ostend 4\ Belg. posts; Furnes to Bruges 5f Belg. posts; Calais to Ostend 61 f Eng. m., to Bruges 69 m. A most uninteresting route : the road is improved, but 2 leagues of sand near the frontier, a drive of 2£ hrs,, remained unpaved. 24 Gravelines. 7 „ „ 20 Dunkirk. } See Route 16* A well-appointed omnibus runs daily from Dunkirk to Ostend, in direct com- munication with the railway trains* in 5 hrs. Avoid the trekschuit from Dun- kirk to Ostend. The nearest way from Dunkirk to Furnes, when the state of the tide per- mits, is across the sands by the sea-side; but they are sometimes quick. At the extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from Furnes, is the boundary of France and Belgium, and the station of the custom- house. 22 Furnes (Flemish, Veuren). A sickly town, owing to the malaria from the surrounding marshes: 4600 inhab. A great part of the linen manufactured in Belgium is sold here at large fairs held three times a year. The portion of the Abbey of St. Witte- brod, which escaped the ravages of the French Revolution, is curious. The choir is entire and fine, resembling that of the Dom at Cologne, though on a smaller, scale, and less ornamented. It120 ROUTE 18.—LONDON TO ANTWERP. ZEALAND. Sect. II. contains an image of the Virgin, which annually works a great many miracles, and her shrine is thickly furnished with votive offerings in consequence. The Hotel de Ville is a Gothic buil- ding, profusely ornamented with car- vings. At Dixmude, about 8 m. E. of Fumes, is a fine and large Gothic church, containing a stone Roodscreen of most elaborate and beautiful work- manship, in an excessively florid (flam- boyant) style, corresponding, though riot identical, with our Tudor archi- tecture. Over the high altar hangs a chef-d’oeuvre of Jordaens, the Adoration of the Magi. •The direct road from Furnes to Ostend is a long stage of 4-£ posts by Nieuwport, a strong fortress, memor- able for the victory gained on the sand- hills outside its walls at Westende, by Prince Maurice of Nassau, in 1600, over the Spaniards. His brother, Prince Frederic Henry, then only 15, and several young English noblemen, led on by Sir Francis and Horace Vere, served under him. When the action was about to commence, Maurice, who foresaw that it would be a bloody en- gagement, and had made up his mind to conquer or perish, recommended the youthful band to return to Ostend, and reserve themselves for some other occa- sion. They scorned to accept the sug- gestion, and determined to share all the perils of the contest. In the first ons^ Sir Francis Vere was desperately wounded, and the English volunteers suffered severely, though they gave an eminent example of courage. The good generalship of Prince Maurice was never more conspicuous than on that day, and the arms of the patriots were eventually triumphant. As there is nothing at all to see at Ostend, travellers had better make di- rectly for Bruges by Ghistelles, by which they will be gainers in time and distance. 3^ Ghistelles. This is a pretty vil- lage, named from the stable, or stud, of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here, attached to the old Castle, slight remains of which still exist. In the neighbourhood is a nunnery and Church, containing the monument ot St. Godalieve, wife of Bertulf, Lord of Ghistelles, in the 11th century, who was strangled by her husband through jealousy, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her bones lie in a shrine of brass, before which a lamp burns night and day. Above her altar is a group of 3 figures, as large as life, representing the murder. 2^ Bruges. See Route 21. ROUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP BY THE SCHELDE. About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 English steamers go from London every Sunday and Thursday ; from Antwerp every Sunday and Wednesday. Fares : chief cabin, 21. 2s., second cabin, 1/. 12s. 6d., a carriage, 41., and in re- turning much less. The voyage occu- pies from 20 to 24 hrs., 7 of which are taken up in descending the Thames, and 6 in ascending the Schelde. The return passage is usually shorter. The course from the Thames to the Schelde is almost a straight line. It was the situation qf the Schelde, imme- diately opposite the mouth of the En- glish river and the port of London, that caught the attention of Napoleon, who saw what advantageous use might be made of such a harbour to annoy the English in war, or rival them in commerce. On entering the mouth of the river called the Hond, or West Schelde, the land on the left hand is Walcheren, the largest of the 9 islands which form the province of Zealand, or Sea land. The district is most appropriately named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea ; it may, therefore, truly be said to appertain naturally to that element. The isles of Zealand, separated from one another by the different branches of the Schelde, are protected from the inroads of the ocean, partly by natural sand-banks or dunes (§ 12.), partly by enormous dykes or sea-walls (§ 9.), which mea- sure more than 300 miles in extent,Belgium, route 18.—London and cost annually more than 2 millions of florins to keep them in repair. Of the great dyke at West Cappcl, in the island of Walcheren, it is said, that, had it been originally made of solid copper, the first cost would have been less than the sums already expended in building and repairing it. The pol- ders, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the water engineers into 2 classes : those nearest the sea or river, which are of course most exposed to inundation, are ca\\cd polders calamiteux ; the more distant are distinguished as non calamiteux. The first class requires stronger dykes, the maintenance of which is considered so important, that they are kept up partly at the expense of government; those further inland, not being equally exposed to danger, are maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large portion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes, even should the outer or sea- dyke break, the extent of the disaster is limited by these inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are pre- vented. Notwithstanding the care with which they are continually watched, a rupture took place, in 1808, in the great dyke of West Cappel, by which a great part of the island of Walcheren was in- undated ; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middleburg, and the destruction of that town was prevented solely by the strength of its walls. The whole province is most fertile and productive, especially in corn and madder, which may be considered the staple. Its meadows, manured with wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly populous, abounding in towns and villages; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of their existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall chimneys, seen at intervals over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Schelde. The industry of the Zea- land peasant, and the economy with which he husbands his resources, are very remarkable, and might furnish a good example to the same class in our TO ANTWERP. FLUSHING. 121 own country. As an instance of the mode in which he makes a little go a great way, it may be mentioned, that even from the rushes and reeds on the river banks, he gains a meal for his cattle. When boiled, mixed with a little hay, and sprinkled with a little salt, they are much relished by the cows, who thrive upon them, and yield abundance of milk. The island (r.) opposite to Wal- cheren, is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition of 1809. Cadsand had been, at an earlier period, the scene of a glorious victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivalry of England, over a large body of Flemings, in the pay of Philip de Valois, King of France, in 1337. The English, effecting a land- ing in the face of the enemy, drove them from the sand-hills on which they were posted, and took, burned, and razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts of the English archers did great exe- cution, and the personal prowess of the two leaders contributed not a little to the issue of the day. The first town which is perceived on the left of the spectator, and right bank of the river, is (r.) Flushing (Dutch, Vlissingen). Inn, Heerenlogement, not very good. A fortified town of 7000 inhabitants, with dock-yard and naval arsenal : 2 large and deep canals, communicating with the sea, enable the largest mer- chant vessels to penetrate into the to*vn, and unload their cargoes on the quays, close to the warehouses. It was bombarded and taken by the English, under Lord Chatham, in 1809, when a great part of the town was de-i stroyed, and 300 of the inhabitants pe- rished. This unprofitable and cruel exploit was the sole result of the Wal- cheren Expedition, and the only achieve- ment of the largest and best equipped armament which ever left the shores of Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 82 gun-boats, con- taining a force of 100,000 men, who. might have carried Antwerp by a coup de-main. Since then, the works of Flushing have been greatly strength- G122 ROUTE 18.—LONDON TO ANTWERP. TERNEUSEN. Sect. IE ened, and in combination with the Fort of Rammekens, lying to the east, and those of Breskens, on the opposite side of the Schelde (here from 2J to 3 miles broad), completely command the en- trance of the river. Admiral de Ruiter was born here, the son of a rope-maker; a statue has been erected to him by his townsfolk. The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 churches, and more than 100 houses, were destroyed by the bombs and Con- greve rockets of the English. Within the walls there is nothing but the usual singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10.) to excite the attention of a stranger, but at West Cappel the construction of the dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, and the country behind would be at the mercy of the sea, were it not de- fended by a dyke of 4,700 yards long, and 30 feet high, upon the stability of which the safety of the whole island depends. 5 miles inland from Flushing is Middleburg, capital of Zealand, (/tin, Heerenlogement, not bad.) 14,000 in- habitants. A remarkably clean town; with a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, by Charles the Bold, ornamented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Count- esses of Flanders. The telescope was invented at Mid- dleburg, in 1601, by one Hans Lipper- shey, a spectacle-maker. The climate of Walcheren is most un- healthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. This disease is far more fatal to stran- gers, as was proved by the deaths of 7000 English soldiers, who perished here during the disastrous and ill-con- trived expedition of 1809. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes against the sudden trans- itions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long-lived ; and the mortality among the English became so great from the circumstance of their arriving during the most unhealthy season, from their being exposed in tents to the night-air, and from their incautious consumption of green fruit. The distance from Flushing to Ant- werp up the river is reckoned to be about 62 miles. The island next to Walcheren, forming the right bank of the river, is Zuid Beveland. On the left bank, but at some dis- tance off, is Biervliet, a small town, only deserving of mention because a native of this place, named William Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of curing herrings. A monument was erected in the church to him as a bene- factor to his country ; and it is related that Charles V. and his sister, the Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, out of respect to the memory of the fisherman to whom Holland owes a large part of her wealth. Biervliet was detached from the con- tinent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages, and nearly all their inhabitants. Dutch industry and' perseverance have long since recovered every acre. (L ) Terneusen. — Near this are the sluice gates which close the entrance of the new canal extending to Ghent, which gives that city all the advantages of a sea-port, ns it is 16 ft. deep, and wide" enough to admit vessels of very large burthen. It serves also as a drain to carry off the water from the district through which it passes. At Sas van Gend are sluices, by means of which the whole country can be laid under water. The artificial embankments on each side of the Schelde are protected against the current, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into - the river bed, or by masonry brought from a considerable distance in the interior, principally from Na- mur. Hitherto both banks of the Schelde have belonged to Holland; but, after passing the termination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Belgian territory. The strait or passage called Kreek Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland from the main land* is commanded byROUTE 18.—LONDON TO ANTWERP. Belgium. the very strong Fort Batz, which lies on • the limits of the Dutch territory. Route 14. On approaching Fort Lillo (r.) and Liefkenshoek (7.), the city of Antwerp with its tall spire appears in sight. These two strong works remained after the Belgic revolution in the hands of the.. Dutch down to 1839, when they were dismantled and given up to the Belgians in exchange for Venloo in Limburg, and abandoned in conform- ity: with the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance.: They completely command- ed the passage up and down the Schelde, which here puts on the appearance of a river; below it, it is more an arm of the sea, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The polders (§ 11.) above Fort Lief- kenshoek, on the left bank, were laid under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and down to 1838 an extensive tract of country remained in consequence de- solate and useless. 5 or 6 other , forts are: passed on either side of the river previous to arriving at Antwerp. ' Be- tween (/.) Calloo and (r.) Oordam, in 1585, the Duke of Parma threw across the Schelde his celebrated bridge 2,400 ft. long, which, by closing the naviga- tion of: the river, and preventing the arrival .of supplies of provisions to the besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con- tributed to its surrender. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter; 97 pieces of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts guarded 'its extremities, and a protect- ing fleet : was stationed beside it to assist in repelling any attack. The besieged, who, at first; laughed to scorn the notion of rendering such a structure permanent, when they found that all communication with their friends was cut off by it, began to tremble for the result, and every effort was made by them to effect its destruction. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of 3 blazing fires float- ing down the stream, and bearing directly towards the bridge. These, were .fire-ships invented by a foreign engineer then within the walls of Ant- 123 werp. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the threatening danger, and had he not been forcibly removed from it, would probably have lost his life; for one of the vessels reaching its destination with great pre- cision, blew up with such tremendous force as to burst through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables, and de- molished one of the stockades which connected it. with the shore. 800 Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the explosion, and Parma himself was struck down senseless by a beam. Had the Zealand fleet been at hand, as proposed, the city might have been relieved; unfortunately some untoward mistake prevented its co-operation at the right moment, and allowed the Spanish general time to repair the damages, which, with his usual acti- vity, he effected in an incredibly short space.. Another attempt on the part of the besieged to destroy the bridge by means of an enormous floating ma- chine called, the “ End of the War,” an unprophetic name, was entirely frustra- ted by the vessel running aground,— and Antwerp, reduced by famine, vas compelled to surrender. It was immediately in front of the fort of St. Laurent, below the town of Antwerp, that an instance of patriotic devotion was manifested on the part of a Dutch officer, which deserves to rank by the side of the heroic deeds of the Spartans and Romans. In February, 1831, while hostilities were still in progress between Holland and Bel- gium, one of the Dutch gun-boats, in sailing up the Schelde from Fort Aus- truweel to the citadel during a heavy gale, twice missed stays. In spite of all the exertions of the crew, the vessel took the ground close under the guns of the fort, and within a few yards of the docks. The helpless situation of the gun-boat- had been marked . by crowds of Belgians from the shore; and the moment she was fast, a body 6f Belgian volunteers leaped on board* in haste to make a prize of the stranded vessel. The commander, a young: officer named Van Speyk, was called OH, in a triumphant tone, to haul down his124 ROUTE 19.-—GHENT TO BRUSSELS. Sect. H. colours and surrender. He saw that all chance of rescue, and of successful resistance against unequal numbers, were alike vain ; but he had repeatedly before expressed his determination never to yield up his vessel, and he proved as good as his word. He rushed down to the powder magazine, laid a lighted cigar upon an open barrel of gunpow- der, and then falling on his knees, to implore forgiveness of the Almighty for the crime of self-destruction, he calmly awaited the result. In a few moments the explosion took place; and, while the vibration shook the whole city, the dauntless Van Speyk, and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 men, were blown into the air. Van Speyk was an orphan; he had been educated at the public expense in an orphan house at Amsterdam: nobly did he repay his debt, and his country and king were not unmindful of him. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of De Ruiter, and it was decreed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch navy should always bear the name of the Van Speyk. Antwerp. See Route 22. ROUTE 19. GHENT TO BRUSSELS BY ALOST. posts = 30j Eng. miles. The Railroad by Mechlin to Brus- sels, though longer, is a quicker way to Brussels than this high road, on which the diligences take 7 hours. The gate by which we quit Ghent, called the Forte de Bruxelles, or de l’Empereur, dat.es from 1300. A stone bridge, built 1820, connects it with the fine suburb of La Fecherie. 1J Quadrecht, on the Schelde. Near this the railway crosses the road. 2 Alost (or Aalst).—Inns: H. Pays-Bas; Trois Rois. A town of 14,800 inhab., on the Dender. The name signifies to “ the east,” i. e. of the Imperial province of Flanders, of which it was the frontier town in that direction. The Cathedral, or Church of St. Martin, is unfinished, or in part de- stroyed ; what is left is very beautiful, and said to be by the architect of Amiens. In it is a celebrated picture, St. Roch interceding with our Saviour to appease the plague at Alost, by Rubens. It is one of his most sublime works, and was carried to Paris by the French. “ The composition is upon the same plan as that of St. Ilavon at Ghent. The picture is divided into two parts. The Saint and Christ are represented in the upper part, and the effects of the plague in the lower part of the picture. In this piece the grey is rather too predominant, and the figures have not that union with their ground, which is generally so admirable in the works of Rubens. I suspect it has been in some picture-cleaner’s hands, whom I have often known to darken every part of the ground about the figure, in order to make the flesh look brighter and clearer, by which the general effect is destroyed.”— Sir J. R. Near the H. de Ville, recently rebuilt by Roelandt, is the ancient Maison Commune, founded 1200 ; its tower and balcony in front date from 1487. Alost is a great cloth market, and has considerable manufactures. It is 3 m. S. of the Audeghem station (see p. 142.) on the Railroad: passengers are conveyed to and fro in public carriages. 1^ Assclie. A small town of 4000 inliab., trading in flax and hops. “ A particular sort of cake is made here: the Flemish name of it has a marvel- lously uncouth appearance; it is suiker- koekjes; nevertheless they are good cakes, and sold by Jodocus de Bischop, next door to the auberge La Tete de Bceuf. ” — Southey. li Brussels. (See Route 23.) ROUTE 20. VOYAGE FROM LONDON OB DOVER TO OSTEND. Steamers to and from London, in summer 4 times a-week, starting from London Wed. and Sat. morning, andROUTE 20.---LONDON TO OSTEND. Belgium. returning Tues. and Fri. The aver- age passage is 15 hours, 7 of which are occupied in descending the Thames. Fares: chief cabin, 1Z. 4s.; fore cabin, 18s.; carriages, 31. 3s. Ostend pre- sents more frequent opportunities of reaching London than either Antwerp or Rotterdam. Between Dover and Ostend there is now a daily mail communication by iirst-rate iron steamers, belonging to the English and Belgian governments. The departures on both sides are so arranged as to avoid (excepting in ex- traordinary cases) all landing in boats. The great power of these steamers (120 to 140 H. P.) as compared with their tonnage (190 tons), and their light draft of water (5 to 6 ft.), enable them to save the tide, and to perform the voyage in 4 or 5 hours. The distance is 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 15s. ; fore cabin, 10s.; children, half-price. Carriages, 2 wheels, 1/. 11s. 6d.; 4 wheels, 31. 3s. Persons leaving London by the mail train at 8.30 p.m. may reach Brussels or Antwerp at 11.30 next morning, and Cologne in the evening; Hamburg and Berlin at 5 and 9 o’clock respectively on the fol- lowing evening. Travellers from these towns may reach England in the same time. In the Belgian government steamers the luggage is examined dur- ing the voyage. Steamers sometimes run during summer from Ramsgate, which harbour they can leave at all times of the tide, and therefore have less chance of miss- ing the tide at Ostend. The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., is seen before the Ostend light. The harbour of Ostend, which is dry at low water, is flanked by 2 jetties, fur- nishing agreeable walks; at the en- trance is a bar of sand, which is kept down by the discharge of the sluices connected with the canal to Bruges. OsTENr. — Inns: Hotel d’AUe- magne, close to Railroad stat., good; H. des Bains; charges, table-d’hote, 3 fr.; half bottle of wine, 1 fr. 50 c.; bed, 1 fr. 50 c.; tea or breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. — Cour Imperiale. — Lion d’Or; quiet.—H. de Flandres. Tra- 125 vellers should be on their guard against drinking water, which is filtered rain- water. Seltzer water is drunk in pre- ference. (§6.) The Passport-Office and Custom- house are both near the harbour: they open at 5 a.m. in summer, to prevent delay to passengers who may desire to proceed on their journey. If the tra- veller reaches Ostend in time to pro- ceed on to Bruges the same evening, he will find it the better place to spend the night at. A commissionaire will attend to the passport, and secure places, and consider himself well paid by 2 fr. Vigilantes, § 20. A. English is much spoken, and ther6 is even an English Chapel here. A few hours at Ostend exhaust a traveller’s patience; while the visit to the douane, and the extortions of inn- keepers and commissionaires, are not likely to improve his temper. The best advice which can be given to any one about to embark hence to England, is not to set out for this place a mo- ment sooner than will enable him to go comfortably on board the steamer. Those whom accident or design may detain, will, perhaps, be glad of the following information: — Ostend contains 14,000 inhab. The land lies very low all round, and the waters are controlled by means of sluices. Ostend is strongly fortified, and sur- rounded by ramparts and broad ditches. It endured one of the most famous sieges recorded in history, from the Spaniards; it lasted three years and a quarter, from 1601 to 1604. The town yielded to the Spanish general Spinola at last, only by command of the States-General, who had gained their point by its obstinate resistance, 50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 Spaniards, are said to have fallen dur- ing the siege. The victors paid dearly for their conquest; all that they gained was a plot of ground, covered with a. heap of ruins; for their cannon had levelled every house with the earth, and they lost four other towns, which were wrested from them by the Dutch while their armies were engaged in this unprofitable enterprise. The noise of g 3126 ROUTE 21.—OSTEND TO BRUGES. . Sect. II. the bombardment was, it is said, heard in London at times. As a fortress Ostend forms the first member of that great chain of defences which were intended to protect Bel- gium on the side of France. Neither the public buildings here, or the churches, are remarkable, except to those who have never before seen the paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic religion. Ostend is a favourite watering-place, and is much resorted to in summer (Aug. and Sept.); even the King and Queen of the Belgians repair hither, and occupy 2 or 3 ordinary-looking bouses in the Rue Longue. There are 80 Bathing Machines on the beach, and the sands are very extensive and smooth, and crowded with bathers of both sexes, decorously clad in bath dresses, by order of the police. A bathing-house, Pavilion des Bains, has been established •close to the sea, on the Digue. The only thing worth seeing, and the most agreeable spot in Ostend, is this Digue, a sea wall 40 ft. high and ^ m. long, extending between the sea and the ram- parts, faced with stone and paved with bricks, which forms a public promenade, and commands a wide extent of dunes and flat sands to the sea: not a tree being visible. This and the wooden Piers stretching on both sides of the harbour’s mouth are much resorted to in the evening. In the Town-hall, on the Place d’Armes, is the Casino, a sort of as- sembly-room or club, the subscription to which amounts to 12 fr. for the season. It contains a ball-room 150 ft. long, where there is dancing 2 or 3 times a week. Beneath it are reading-rooms, provided with news- papers, coffee and billiard rooms. Max. Korniker, bookseller, has a shop at Ostend. An English consul (Mr. Curry) re- sides at Ostend ; a British subject may obtain from him a passport, should he have neglected to provide himself with one in England. Outside the Bruges gate are the Oyster Parks (Huitrieres), salt-water reservoirs filled with oysters brought from Harwich, Colchester, and else- where on the English coast, and fattened here. Another is near the Light-house^ They are transported hence as far as Paris, under the name Huitres d’Os- tende. Steamers to London and to Dover, see p. 125. Diligence daily to Calais, by Dun- kirk, in 9 hours. Railroad, see § 22., and Rte. 21. ROUTE 21. OStEND TO BRUGES, GHENT, TERMONDE, AND MECHLIN. — RAILROAD. Ostend to Bruges 22 kilom., 1S£ m.; Bruges to Ghent, 45 kilom., 28jf m.; Ghent to Mechlin, 56 kilom., 35 m. The country is rich in an agricultural point of view, but flat, tame, and tire- some to other eyes than those of a far- mer. 7 Plasschendael St. The Dunkirk canal here joins that from Ostend to Bruges. At Ouderiburg are kitchen gardens, which supply Ostend with vegetables. 6 Jabbeke St. - 9 Bruges Station. A Canal connects Ostend with Bruges, a fine broad sheet of water, three or four times wider than the narrow strips to which we are accustomed in England. In 1798, a detachment of English troops landed at the mouth of it and destroyed the sluices; but the wind shifted before they could make good their retreat, and they were taken prisoners by the French. Bruges ( Flem. Brugge). —- Inns: H. de Flandres, in the Rue Noordzand, or de la Moiinaie; moderate charges. Table-d’hbte at 1 : the fish dinners on Fridays are renowned. —H. du Com- merce, in the Rue St. Jacques; tolera- bly good, and cheap___Fleur de Ble.— Ours d’Or. This city, the Liverpool of the mid- dle ages, whioh was rich and powerful when Antwerp and Ghent where only in their infancy, is now reduced • to 43,000 inhab., of whom 15,000 are pau- pers. In the 14th cent., the commerce of the world may be said to have beenROUTE 21.---OSTEND TO BRUGES. Belgium. concentrated In it; Factories, or pri- vileged companies of merchants from 17 kingdoms, were settled here as agents; 20 foreign ministers had hotels within its walls; and natives of many distant countries, of which little was then known but their names, repaired hither an- nually. Early in the 13th century, Bruges was made the staple place of the cities of the Hanseatic League, and of the English wool trade, and became the centre of resort for the Lombard and Venetian traders, who brought hither the manufactures of India and the pro- duce of Italy, to exchange them for the merchandise of Germany and the Baltic. Richly laden argosies from Venice, Ge- noa, and Constantinople, might, at the same time, be seen unloading in its harbour; and its warehouses groaned beneath bales of wool from England, linen from Belgium, and silk from Persia. It stands on the little river Rege, formerly navigable, but now almost absorbed by canals. Damme, now a small village, about 3 miles on the Sluys road, is said to have been the port of Bruges,flourishing chiefly about .1200 ; tales are told of basins holding 1000 sail, where now is a fertile plain. At Damme is a flue church, partly in ruins, built early in the 13th century; the tombstones forming the pavement of the nave ate beautifully carved. Bruges was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders; but it reached the height of its splendour in the first part of the 15th century, when the Dukes of Burgundy fixed their court here. At present it wears an air of deso- lation ; the people in its streets are few, and it has lost the indications of com- mercial activity. Its appearance is the more mournful from its great extent, and the size and Unaltered splendour of many of the public buildings and pri- vate houses* — vestiges of its former wealth and prosperity. Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! The season of her splendour Is ) its mo Yet everywhere its monuments remain: Temples which rear their stately heads high, Canals that intersect the fertile plain_ Wide streets and squares, with many a coi and hall, Spacious and undefac’dbut ancient all. me by, When I may read of tilts in days of old. Of tournays grac’d by chieftains of renown, Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors hold — If fancy could portray some stately town. Which of such pomp fit theatre may be, Fair Bruges ! I shall then remember thee. Southey. It has still many objects of interest, which deserve at least a day to be de- voted to them. They may be conve- niently visited in the following order:— Start from the railroad station, close to which is a Capuchin convent, by the Rue Zuidzand, which leads to the ca- thedral (ri.); thence to Notre Dame, which is at a short distance to the S. E. — on the W. of this .is the Hospital of St. Jean ; thence, by the Dyver canal, through the fish market, to the Hotel de Ville, Palais de Justice, and Cha- pelle du S. Sang; thence, by the Rue Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Rue Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Church, beyond which, near the ram- part, are the garden of St, Sebastian and Convent of English ladies : return by Rue and Pont des Carmes to the Academie and the Grande Place. The Cathedral (St. Sauveur), on the rt. side of the Staen street, leading from the Railway into the town, is a Gothic building, externally of brick, and ugly; but within, the handsomest church in Bruges (date after 1358). Of the pic- tures which it contains, some are curious for their antiquity,- and most as con- tributions to the history of Flemish art. Against the wall of the S. aisle hangs a small picture with shutters, representing the. martyrdom of St. Hip poly tus, who was torn in pieces by horses, by Hans Hemling. On the outside of the shut- ters are 4 saints in grey: inside, a crowned figure, and the donor and his wife, capital portraits, 'fhere is also a good picture of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah in the centre and at the side, by Peter Porbus. There are several paintings by the brothers Van Oost. On either, side of the altar is a fine marble tomb. In the Chapelle des Cordonniers, in the N. aisle, is a series of monumental Brasses built into the wall, interesting examples of early Flemish art in the 15th and 16 centuries. Ndtre Dame (Onse Vrouw) is a128 ROUTE 21.—OSTEND TO BRUGES. Sect. II. church surmounted by a tall brick tower, with stunted spire, less remark- able for its architecture than for the works of art to be found iu it. The pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- borate carving in wood, so common in the churches of the Netherlands. In a chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo, and believed by Sir Joshua Reynolds to have certainly the air of his school. There is a grandeur about the upper part of the Virgin’s figure, and in the turn of the head and in the features, which resemble some of M. Angelo’s works. The tradition in Bruges is, that a vessel which was con- veying it to England was lost on the neighbouring coast of Flanders. Ho- race Walpole is said to have offered 30,030 fl. for it. It was carried to Paris by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in the aisle S. of the choir, are the Tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur- gundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of the Empr. Maximilian, the last scions' of the house of Burgundy, and the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. The effigies of both father and daughter, made of copper, richly gilt, but not displaying any high excellence as works of art, repose at full length on slabs of black marble. Beneath and round the sides are coats of arms richly enamelled, ■«« which record the string of duchies, counties, and lordships which this illus- trious and amiable heiress brought to the house of Austria, and which after- wards swelled the empire, on which the sun never set, of her grandson Charles V. The exquisite richness of the monu- ments, the historical interest attaching both to the father and daughter, and the affection of the Flemish for the memory of this yoqpg countess, who died when pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from her horse, while hawking with her hus- band near Bruges, having long con- cealed, out of affection for him, the mortal injury she had received, render them objects worthy of considerable attention.” The Duke wears a crown on his head, and is decorated with the order of the Golden Fleece. The Monument of Mary of Burgundy was erected in 1495, and is far superior to the other. In 1558, Philip II. be- spoke one exactly like it for his great- great-grandfather, Charles the Bold,and paid one Master Jonghelinck for it 14,000 fl., besides 40 fl. to each of the workmen as compensation for the loss of his teeth in the process of enamelling. During the French Revolution these monuments were concealed, to preserve them from ^rapacity and Vandalism, by the beadle of the church, Pierre De- zutter, at the peril of his life, since a price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head in consequence of this good deed. Both monuments have been recently (finished in 1848) cleaned and regilt by a gold- smith of Bruges, M. Allard ; a charge of 50 cents per person is made for show- ing them. A wooden planking affixed to the railing of the chapel conceals them from view. A richly carved Gothic balcony, of the pew of the fa- mily of Gruthuyze, on the 1. of the high altar, and a painting in the style of John Mabuse (16th cent.), representing a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the centre, with 7 scenes from the life of Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, by Peter Porbus, hang in the side aisles, and are among the finest works of that artist. In the Ch. of St. Jacques (close to the Hotel du Commerce), a handsome building, rich in altars and marbles, are some interesting monumental brasses of a Spanish family: observe one, dated 1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla and his lady, in the chapel of Ste. Croix. They are worthy of notice, because few are now to be seen in Belgium. Close to Notre Dame is the Hospital of St. John, an ancient charitable insti- tution, where the sick are attended by the religious sisters of the house, whose duties resemble those of the Soeurs de la Charite. Portraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establish- ment hang in the Chapter House, which also contains the celebrated pictures, the pride of the city and admiration of travellers, painted by Hans Hemling, or more correctly Memling, and presented by him to the hospital out of gratitude'Belgium, route 21.—Bruges, pictures op hemling. 129 for the succour which he had received while a patient in it, suffering from wounds received in the battle of Nancy, 1477. The subject of one is the Virgin and Child, with St. Catherine; and on the shutters the Decollation of St. John Baptist and St. John Evangelist at Patmos: on the outside are several figures of saints. The artist never sur- passed, or even equalled, this great per- formance. The stiffness of the figures is usual in paintings of the period at which these were executed; but the careful finish of the heads,—equal to that employed in the finest miniatures, •—the exquisite character which they discover, and the beauty and vividness of the colouring, are rare and truly ad- mirable. They were executed in 1479, end bear his name. There is another small altarpiece by Hemling, also with wings : the principal subject is the Ado- ration of the Magi; at the sides are the Nativity and the Purification in the Temple. Besides these there are two heads by Hemling; also a Crucifixion by Franks, and a Holy Family said to be by Vandyk. Another hot less interesting object is the Reliquary or Chasse (Flem. Ryve) de St. Ursule, a wooden coffer for hold- ing the arm of the saint, painted by Hemling. On each side of the cover are 3 medallions, the smaller of which Contain angels playing instruments, the larger a coronation of the Virgin and the glorification of St. Ursula. On one gable end is the Virgin and Child, on the other St. Ursula. On the long Sides are subjects from the legend of St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at Co- logne. St. Ursula was the daughter of an English king ; with a train of 11,000 virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort of knights, she made a pilgrimage to Rome. On their return they all suf- fered martyrdom at Cologne. The paintings are executed with the most delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre- senting the landing at Cologne, the tra- veller will recognise the cathedral, churches, and other buildings of that city, copied with considerable fidelity. 2. The landing at Cologne. 3. The arrival at Rome; the Pope receives the pilgrims. 4. Return to Basle, and re- embarkation on the Rhine. 5 & 6 form one picture, the groups and background being continued from one to the other —the martyrdom of Conan and of St. Ursula in the camp of the Emperor Maximin, on the banks of the Rhine. “ These little pictures are among the very best productions of the Flemish school. The drawing in these small figures is much more beautiful than in the larger ones by the same master. There is nothing in them meagre, stiff or angular: the movements are free J the execution and tone of colour, with all its softness, very powerful; the ex- pression in the single heads, of the high- est excellence.”—Kugler. The large hall, divided by partitions into wards and dormitories, and kitchen for the use of the patients, is interesting for its cleanliness and good order, and, above all, for its antiquity. It is a Gothic hall, with rows of pointed arches on piers dividing it into aisles, and, probably, lias undergone no change since the day when Hemling was re- ceived into it. Admission is given at any time except when service is going on in the church. The Hdtel de Ville is an elegant Gothic structure, though of small di- mensions, built in 1377. The niches in front were decorated with curious sta- tues of the Counts of Flanders; but on the arrival of the French revolutionary army, in 1792, all these “ representa- tions of tyrants" were pulled down, broken, and burnt in the great square in a bonfire, the materials of which were composed of the gallows, the scaffold, and the wheel. At a window or balcony, in front of the building, the Counts of Flanders presented them- selves to the citizens after their acces- sion, and took the oaths, promising to obey the laws and maintain the privi- leges of the town. The Public Library (open 10—3) is now placed in the Grand Hall, extending nearly the whole length of the building, and is remark- able for its Gothic roof of wood. It is well furnished in the departments of French and Flemish literature, and contains a few curious MSS. Among o 5iao ROUTE 21.—BRUGES. Sect. II, other curiosities is, a Missal of the 14th eentury, and the; scheme of a, lottery drawn at Bruges in 1445—. aD earlier date than is usually given to the inven- tion of lotteries, which renders it pro- bable that they originated in Flanders, and not in Italy, as is commonly be- lieved. Adjoining the H.. de Ville is the Palais de Justice, anciently called Palais dp Franc de Bruges (the liberty of Bruges, an extensive district indepen- dent of the town). The back view of this building, toward the Fish-market, is curious. The Council Chamber of the magistrates is particularly deserv- ing of notice: .it is antique, though the rest of the building dates from 1722. 11 contains a magnificent chim- ney-piece, occupying [one side of the room, carved in wood (date 1529), including statues as large as life, and well-executed, of Charles V., Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian, Charles the Bold and Margaret of York, his third wife, surrounded with coats of arms of Burgundy, Spain, &c. It is also decorated with marble bas-reliefs representing the story of Susannah. There is a Gothic chapel in: the cor- ner of the square at the opposite end of the Town House, on the site of the 1 st dwelling of the Counts of Flanders, and called La Chapelle du Sang de Dieu, from some drops of our Saviour’s blood, brought by Count Thierry of Alsace from the Holy Land, and presented by him to the town, and now deposited in a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine of silver gilt, executed, in 1617, by Jean Crabbe. This is to be seen in the upper chapel, where is a pulpit with medallions carved in wood. The inte- rior has been recently restored, and is not worth seeing. Admission by tarif, 50 cents. The exterior of the staircase loading to the chapel is in a florid Gothic, and dates from 1533. The crypt, called, the Chapel of St. John, is the oldest building in Bruges, per- haps of the 9th cent. John Van Eyck, the painter, who died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in the former cathedral of St. Donatus, demo- lished by the French, which stood op- posite the Hotel de Ville. Its site-is now planted with trees, among which stands a vile clumsy statue of Van Eyck, being a painted plaster cast of the mar- ble statue in the Academy, executed by Calloigne, 1775—1830, a native of Bruges, and director.of the Academy.: .The Jerusalem Ch., in a very re- mote part of the town, is only re- markable on acconnt of a copy of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem contained in it, from which it gets its name. It is a fac-simile of the interior of the tomb, and it is recorded that the founder of the‘chapel, a burgomaster of Bruges* Pierre Adorner, who is buried here, with his wife, made 3 journeys to the Holy Land to perfect the resem- blance. There is an English nunnery here; it was founded more than, a century ago, for 40 nuns, natives of England and Ireland. The chapel is much admired. Strangers are admitted to hear the service, which is exquisitely chanted by the nuns. The Academy of Painting, in the Gothic building called Het Poorters Huys, originally the factory of the Biscayans, Academie Plaets, contains some fine old paintings. The most re- markable are, by J. Fan Eyck : — 1. The Virgin and Child, with St. George and St Donatus; the donor on his knees, holding a pair of spectacles; date 1436. “ It has great character of nature, and is very minutely finished, though the painter was 66 years old when it was done.” 2. A portrait of his wife, is painted1 in a very superior style, and deserves minute attention. 3. A head of Christ, with the date 1440.. The second figure 4 has been partly erased, so as to look like 2, which has given rise to the erroneous assertion that this was the first picture painted by this artist with oil colours,; (§ 25.) Hans Rending. — An altar-piece, with folding doors; in the centre the Baptism of Christ; on the wings por- traits of the donor of the picture, his wife and* family ; and on the outside, the Virgin and Child.: This is a beau- tiful painting, remarkable especially for the sweet expression of some, of theBelgium. route 21.—Bruges, xes halles. 13rl countenances, and their elaborate finish. It was formerly in the Town-House. Another altar-piece by the same pias- ter, but inferior to the preceding, re- presents St. Christopher with the infant Jesus on his shoulders. The portraits of the donors of this picture, and their family, are very fine. 3 or 4 other pic- tures shown here are attributed to Hemling, but their genuineness is doubted; at all events, they are far below the others in excellence. Not undeserving of notice are 2 portraits qf a burgess of Bruges and his wife (1554), and 2 Last Judgments, by Porbus the elder; and the Judgment of Cambyses, 2 subjects, by Ant. Claessens the elder. On one side of The Grande Place stands Les Halles,' a large building (date 1364), one wing of which was intended to be a cloth-hall; the other is -occupied as a flesh-market, The tower or belfry in. its centre is an elegant Gothic structure, imposing from its height. The view from its top is, as may be supposed, extensive; it com- mands the roofs of the city, and a sort of map-like panorama of the sur- rounding country. The Chimes (§ 26.) from this tower are the finest in Eu- rope, and almost incessant : they are played four times an hour by machinery, which may be seen near the top of the tower. 'It consists of an enormous brass cylinder, acting like the barrel of pn organ, and • setting in motion the keys of the instrument; but on Sun- days, from 11£ to 12, the chimes are played by a musician. On the S. side of the square, at'the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the house inhabited by Charles II. during his exile from Eng- land. It bears the sign “Au Lion Beige." Even in his banishment he was not without a regal title, for the Burghers of Bruges elected him “ King of the Company of Crossbowmen.” (Roi des Arbaletriers.) An Estaminet, in the opposite cor- ner of the Rue St.- Amand, now occu-’ pies the site of the Craenenburg, histo- rically remarkable as 'having been the prison of the Empr. Maximilian, 1487- 8, when his unruly Flemish subjects, irritated at some infringement of their rights, rose up against him, seized his person, and shut him up in this building, which they had fortified, and converted into a prison by barring the windows. For several weeks he remained in close confinement,and the citizens kept watch and ward over him. The pope menaced them with excommunication, and the aTmiesof the Empire were put in march against them. Nevertheless, Maxi- milian was not released until he had sworn upon his knees, before an altar erected in the middle of this square, in presence of magistrates, corporation, and people, to resign his claims to the guardianship of his son, to respect the liberties of Bruges, and to grant a general amnesty for past offences against his person and government. He ratified this treaty by the most solemn oaths on the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, and a fragment of the true cross ; in spite of which he broke it a few weeks after. The Princhenhof— the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders, in which the marriage of Charles.the Bold with Margaret of York, sister of Edward .IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where Philip le Bel, father of Qharles V., was born, is reduced to a few fragments qf ruined wall included in a private house, but retains the old name ; it is near the Rue Noordzand. The Hall of the Serge-makers’ Guild (date 1383), with a bas-relief of St. George and the Dragon over, the door; the house of the English Merchants’ Company, in which Caxton is said to have resided while learning the art of printing ; the house of Count Egmont, a few paces from the H. du Com- merce, are buildings interesting from age, architecture, or associations. The Beguinage, or Convent of Beguine Nuns, near the western extremity of the town, is inferior in extent to the one at Ghent; but travellers ought to visit one or other of these interesting esta- blishments. “ Le\ Couvent de TAssomption contains a small picture-gallery, a pretty chapel, a 6132 ROUTE 21.--BRUGES TO GHENT. Sect. H< and a school of 100 poor children, who are taught lace-making by the nuns, a touching sight.”—J. The Archers' Guilds deserve notice : In the hall of the Fraternity of St. Se- bastian or the cross-bowmen is a bust of our Charles II., and a portrait of his brother the D. of Gloucester. From the tower in the archery ground there is a good view of Bruges. Service is' performed on Sundays in an English Protestant Church. The Ramparts, extending all round the town, are an agreeable walk. The principal manufacture carried on in the town is that of lace; but even it is much fallen off. In the two Latin lines already quoted, § 25., this town is said to be famed for pretty girls. Bruges has not lost its reputation in this respect, and many a fair face and pair of black eyes will be met with peeping out from under the black hood of the mantle, called faille, which is generally worn by the females of the lower orders, or sur- rounded by the primly plaited frills of a lace cap. The invention of decimal arithmetic has been attributed to Simon Stevin, of Bruges. He was one of the best mathe- maticians of his age; he recommended, but did not invent, decimal arithmetic. He is the inventor of what is now called Bramah’s press. There is a heavy, ill- draped statue of him in the Place de Simon Stevin. The famous order of the Golden Fleece was established by Philip the Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the symbol of this institution he paid a just compliment to the skill of the weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- fection to which they had brought the manufacture of wool, had mainly contri- buted to the rapid advancement in prosperity of this country during the middle ages. The fleece, therefore, was very appropriately chosen as an emblem of the power and splendour of the rulers of Flanders. During the dis- contents which broke out in Belgium in the 14th cent., Edward III. in- vited many Flemings to England, who brought over with them the art of manufacturing the finer woollen cloths previously unknown, and by their as- sistance we soon surpassed those of Flanders in excellence. Six canals concentrate at Bruges, from Ghent, Sluys (Ecluse, the port of Bruges), Nieuport, Fumes, Ypres, and Ostend. On the sea-shore, about 7 m. N. W. of Bruges, is Blankenberg, a fishing village in the midst of the sand-hills, not unlike Scheveningen in Holland. It is frequented in summer as a bathing place. Inns : Bellevue; Hotel de l’Em- pereur. BRUGES TO GHENT. (45 kilom.) The Railway Station at Bruges is on the Vrydags Markt. The Grand Canal between Bruges and Ghent is bounded by high banks on each side, and for the greater part of the distance is lined with tall trees, en- livened by occasional villas and neat gardens. “ Europe can boast no richer, goodlier scene, By .fertile fields and fruitful gardens green.’ Dante {Infer, xv. 4—6.) compares the embankment, which separated the River of Tears from the sandy desert, with that which the Flemings have thrown up between Ghent and Bruges against the assaults of the sea. “ Quale i Fiamminghi tra Guzzante e Bruggia, . Temendo ’1 fiotto che in ver lor s’avventa, Fanno lo schermo, perchfe ’1 mar si fuggia.” The Railroad is carried a little to the S. of the canal. 12 Bloemendael St. 10 Aeltre St. 7 Hansbeke St. 3 Landeghem St. 13 Ghent Stat. on the S. E. side of the town, which stands princi- pally on the rising ground beyond the station. The trains leave the station by the same line in which they enter it. On the high ground to the left, on ar- riving, and on the other side of the Schelde, is the new Citadel—the church beyond, with a dome, is St. Pierre. Ghent(French, Gand; Flem. Gend; Germ. Gent.).—Inns : H. Royal; —ROUTE 21.—GHENT. 133 Belgium. Poste; both on the Kauter or Place d’Armes: H. de Flandres, clean and quiet. 2nd Class : Paradis: Lion d’Or : H. des Pays-Bas, Marche aux Grains; very comfortable, but small. Ghent lies upon the rivers Schelde and Lys, whose numerous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all directions: it has about 97,000 inhab. In the time of Charles V. this was, perhaps, the largest and most populous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses, and 175,000 inhab. ; and that emperor used sportively to say that he could put all Paris into his glove (gant). The circumference of its walls at the present day measures between 7 and 8 miles. In the 10th cent, it was the capital of Flanders, but in process of time the turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit of independence had early begun to work, rose up against their feudal superiors, and threw off their yoke; or obtained from them con- cessions and immunities which formed the origin of popular rights in Europe. At length its burghers became so bold and warlike, that they were able to re- pulse from their walls 24,000 English, commanded by Edward I., in 1297; hnd contributed to beat the elite of the French chivalry at Courtray, in the “ Battle of Spurs.” Their allegiance, both to the Counts of Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy, seems to have been little more than nominal; since, whenever these seigneurs attempted to impose a tax which was unpopular, the great bell sounded the alarm, the citi- zens flew to arms, and slew or expelled from the town the oflicers appointed by their sovereign. It did not take long to equip an armament of burghers and artizans, who had weapons always at band, and who repaired to the scene of action in their every-day or working dress, only distinguished by a badge, such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent in the 14th and 15th centuries in Ghent as they have been in Paris in the 19th, and rather more difficult to quell. On the other hand, it not unfrequently happened that the seigneur, aroused by some act of atrocity or insubordination, collected his forces together, and took signal and terrible vengeance. These courageous but undisciplined citizens then atoned for their audacity on the field of battle, being mowed down in thousands. Afterwards came the sea- son of retribution and humiliation for the town: enormous subsidies were levied on it: its dearest privileges were confiscated; and its most honoured ci- tizens and magistrates were condemned to march out of the gates in their shirts, with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust before the feet of their imperious lord and conqueror. The city of Ghent was several times forced to make such an abject and lu- dicrous act of submission. The imme- diate cause of its decline and ruin may be traced to this spirit of revolt. The citizens, “ intoxicated with the extent of their riches and the fulness of their freedom,” engaged in a contest with their sovereign, Philip the Good. It is no little proof of their vast resources that they were able to maintain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the end they were compelled to submit, with abject humiliation, heavy fines, and loss of trade. In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to have contained 80,000 men capable of bearing arms. The number of weavers then amounted to 40,000, and they alone could furnish 18,000 fighting men out of their corporation. A cus- tom derived from that period still exists in the town:—a bell was rung at morn- ing, noon, and evening, to summon the weavers to their work and meals: while it tolled, the drawbridges over the ca- nals could not be raised for the passage of vessels; and other persons were even enjoined not to go out into the streets^ for fear of interrupting the vast stream of population; while children were carefully kept within doors, lest they should be trodden under foot by the passing multitude. Though fallen from its high estate, it does not display the same signs of decay and listlessness as Bruges : it is still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, while united to France, it was ranked134 ROUTE 21.-T-GHENT. BEFFROI. ST. BAVON. Sect. IL by Napoleon as the third manufacturing town in his dominions, — after Lyons and Rouen. The Revolution of 1830, however, inflicted another vital blow on its prosperity. Several considerable manufactures are, however, carried on here, especially that of cotton. In 1801, a clever Fleming, named Lieven Bauens, brought over from Manchester English workmen and spinning jennies. The manufacture quickly took root, so as to employ in a few years more than 30,000 workmen. Sixty steam-engines ware employed, not long ago, in the town and neighbourhood to set in mo- tion the machinery of the various cot- ton mills. But since the Revolution many have ceased to work, and several proprietors have removed their esta- blishments to Holland. The picturesqueness of the houses of Ghent, the fantastic variety of gable ends rising' stepwise, or ornamented with scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger’s eye at every turn. (See § 25.) Among the chief buildings— The Beffroi—Bdfrey Tower, is one of the most ancient in the town, dating from 1183. One of the earliest pri- vileges which the citizens obtained from their feudal lords was to be allowed to build a belfrey, and they long regarded it as a kind of monument of their; power and wealth. It originally served as a watch-tower, from which the ap- proach of an enemy might be descried, and it contained the tocsin-bell, by the tolling of which the citizens were called together to arms or to debate. One of the bells still bears this inscription : — “ Mynen naem is Roelant, als ick clippe dan ist brandt; als ick luyde, dan ist Storm im , Vlaenderlandt.” The Gilt J5ragon, formerly on the top, which the Gantois carried off from Bruges in the wars of the 14th century, as a trophy pf their conquest of that town under the generalship of Philip’ Van Artevelde, has been taken down and placed in a house near the H. de Ville, 1843. It originally decorated one of the Greek churches in Constantinople, and was brought from thence by the .men of Bridges, who went on the first srusade as soldiers of Baldwin, Count of Flanders. The charters, title-deeds, and records of Ghent were originally deposited in the lower part of the building; it now serves as a prison. The view from the top is certainly far more striking than that from the great tower at Bruges; the watch. maker, through whose shop, at its base, the entrance lies, exacts as much as he can get for admission. Charles V., when recommended by the cruel Alva to raze to the ground this town, whose rebellion had given him so much trouble, took him to the top of the Beffroi, and showing him the vast city spread out beneath, asked, “ Combien ilfalloit de peaux d’Espagne pour faire un gant de cette grandeur?” — How many skins of Spanish leather would it take to make such a glove?.— thus rebuking the atrocious suggestion of his minister. It is, indeed, an interesting prospect; the number of the squares, and width of the streets, admit the eye to range over something more than mere roofs of houses. Besides the towers and steeples of many churches, and the im- posing mass of the Town Hall close at hand, in the distance may be perceived the site and ruined walls of the Citadel, built by- Charles V. to overawe the ci- tizens. Beyond this, if we continue the survey, is the Great Beguinage, with its streets and squares; and, fol- lowing the line of ramparts, still further to the left, near the ’ Promenade of the Coupure, the Maison de Force, a vast building, resembling a wheel in its ground plan, with the steeple of the prison church-rising in the centre. The Cathedral of St. Bavon (Fleiu. St. Baefs), though -somewhat heavy externally, is one of the most handsome in its internal proportions and splendid in its decorations.of all the churches in Belgium. It was founded in 944,.ti)p ■choir and crypt were rebuilt in 1228, and the whole was finished in the be- ginning pf the 16th century. The choir apd transepts are lined with black marble, the balustrades are of white or variegated marble, a species of decora- tion which though splendid, yet-being in the Grecian style, by no means befitsBelgium. route 21.^ghent. cathedral, 135 a Gothic church : the gates of the cha- pels are of brass* and statues and paint- ings ornament every vacant space. Over the.choir, at a considerable ele- vation, are affixed the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece. The last (23d) chapter of the order was held in this church by Philip II. of Spain, 1559. The pulpit was carved by Delveaux, an artist of Ghent. The high altar itself is a remarkable object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, in his ducal dress, by Verbruggen. , In front of it are 4 tall copper candlesticks, remarkable as having belonged to King .Charles I. It is supposed that they may have adorned the chapel of White- hall, or St. Paul’s church, and' that they were sold and sent out of England in the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. They still bear the arras of England. On each side of the choir, near the altar, are handsome monuments, with statues of 4 bishops of Ghent. The finest is that of Bp. Van Triest, by Duquesnoy. The 24 chapels in the side aisles and round the choir contain pictures, which are here enumerated in order, begin- ning with that on the right hand as you enter the west door; those in the 5th, 10th, 13th, and 14th chapels, are productions of first-rate excellence, which deserve attentive consideration. In the first chapel on the right is a painting by G. de Crayer—The Be- heading of St. John. 2. Paelinck■—St. Colette receiving a Grant from the Magistrates of Ghent to establish a Convent. 3. Cawer— St. John baptiz- ing Christ 4. Jansens-—Our Saviour’s Body in the Lap of the Virgin.. 5. The first chapel in the upper church behind the choir: Francis Porbus—Jesus in the: midst of the Doctors: most of the faces are portraits; among them Charles V. and Philip II. may be dis- tinguished: it is a beautiful painting, but in a bad light, 6. G. de Crayer— Martyrdom of St. Barbe. 7.. Vander Meiren (a pupil of,Van Eyck) —Christ between the two Thieves. 8. Vander Henvel—- The Woman taken in Adul- tery. In the 10th chapel or 6th be- yond the transept is one of the finest works 'ever produced by the early Flemish school*—the masterpiece of the brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (date 1432), celebrated all over Europe. The subject is, the Adora- tion of the Spotless Lamb. In the centre is seen the Lamb as described in the Revelations, surrounded by an- gels, and approached by worshippers in 4 groups: on the right, in the dis- tance, are the holy virgins and female saints; on the left, the bishops and founders of monastic orders: in the foreground, on the right of the foun- tain of life, are the patriarchs and pro- phets of the Old Testament; on the left, apostles and saints of the New; while, in the horizon, rise the towers of the New Jerusalem, copied from some old Flemish town. Two of the figures in the rt. hand corner of the picture represent the brothers Van Eyek. More than 300 heads rnajr be counted in this wonderful production, all finished with the most scrupulous minuteness. The upper part of the picture contains, in three compartments, the figures of God the Father, with John the Baptist on the one side, and the Virgin on the other; The beauty and grace of her countenance are only surpassed, probably, by some of the Madonnas .of Raphael. Considering the period when it was painted, this picture is remarkably: free from the stiffness of the early school: the finish of the faces is most elaborate, and the strength and freshness of the colours in a painting 400 years old is truly wonderful. Sir Joshua says, “ The figures are painted in a hard manner, but there, is great character of truth and nature in the heads, and the landscape is well coloured.” , . y : Two pairs Of shutters • or folding doors below, and ttvo above, painted within and: without, also by the Van Eycks, originally formed part of this picture. The whole was taken to Paris by Napoleon, but the centre portions alone have been restored. The six most important of the wings are now in the Royal Museum at Berlin, having been originally bought by a picture dealer for 6000 fr. (2504), and afterwards136 ROUTE 21.—GHENT. CATHEDRAL. Sect. II. sold, for at least ten times that sum, to the King of Prussia. The two ex- terior lower wings are said to be still in the possession of the chapter, but are shut up from motives of false delicacy, because they represent Adam and Eve in a state of nature. 11. G. Honthorst — The Descent from the Cross, and, at the side, G. Crayer, the Crucifixion. 12. N. Roose — The Virgin, surrounded by Angels; on the rt. is the monument of Bp. Van der Noot, who is kneeling before the -Virgin; opposite is the monument of another bishop, who is represented meditating on the scourging of our Lord. 13. Contains a masterpiece of Rubens, but not well preserved—St. Savon renouncing the. Profession of a Soldier to enter the Convent of St. Ainand as a Monk. The figure of the saint is said to be a portrait of the artist himself. “ This picture was for- merly the ornament of the high altar of this cathedral, but was displaced to make room for an ordinary piece of sculpture. When Rubens was thus degraded, one may conclude his fame was then not established: he had not been dead long enough to be canonised, as he may be said to be at present. The saint is represented in the upper part of the picture, in armour, kneel- ing, received by a priest at the door of a church: below is a man, who may be supposed to be his steward, giving- money to the poor. Two women are standing by, dressed in the fashion of the times when Rubens lived: one of them appears to be pulling off a chain, which falls from her neck, as if she in- tended to follow the example before ber. This picture, for composition, colouring, richness of effect, and all those qualities in which Rubens more particularly excelled, claims a rank among his greatest and best works.”— R. It was also carried to the Louvre. 14. Otto Vennius — The Resurrection of Lazarus; very good. 15. Seghers — Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 16. A copy from [Rubens— The Martyrdom of St. Catherine. 17. Opposite this Chapel is the monument of Bishop Van Eersel. 18. M. Coexie—The Seven Works of Mercy. Descending again into the lower church, we reach the 20th chapel. Here stands the brazen font at which Charles V. was baptized. 20. G. Crayer— Assumption of the Virgin. 21. G. Crayer—St. Maca- rius praying for those afflicted with the Plague, whilst he is himself struck by the Pestilence; a good picture. 22. Huffel—St. Lambert carrying Coals on his Surplice to set fire to the Incense. 23. Rombouts — The Descent from the Cross. Under the choir is a low subter- ranean chapel, in one corner of which lie buried Hubert Van Eyck and his sister, also a painter, who may be said to have been literally wedded to the art, since she rejected all offers of mar- riage in order to devote herself to it. This Crypt is reputed very ancient, but a large proportion of the low stumpy pillars are probably of the same age as the upper structure, and added as sup- ports to it. St. Bavon suffered material injury from the fanatic depredations of the Iconoclasts in 1566; 400 of the lowest class of the people entering the church by night, commenced by torch- light the work of demolition, dashing the images and painted glass to pieces with their pole-axes, effacing the rich sculpture, and cutting the pictures to shreds. Within 3 or 4 days every church in Ghent shared a like fate. Philip II.’s vengeance, thus aroused, brought upon Belgium the curse of the Inquisition, and the scourge of ah Alva: — confiscation, exile, or death were the consequences. In the Church of St. Michael “ is, or rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of Vandyck, for it is almost destroyed by cleaning. It appears, by what remains, to have been one of his most capital works. Vandyck has here introduced a most beautiful horse in an attitude of the utmost grace and dignity. This is the same horse on which he drew Charles V., which is in the gallery at Florence; the head of the emperor he copied from Titian.”—R. The pic- ture has been so much injured and re- painted that its original merits can hardly be determined. It stands inBelgium, route 21.—Ghent, h. de ville. market. the N. transept, with a curtain before it. There are numerous paintings by modern Belgian artists in this church. The most ancient church in the town is that of St. Nicholas, though much altered by repairs, conflagrations, &c. No other churches ill Ghent are of equal interest with the foregoing, either in their architecture, or the pic- tures they contain. The University is a truly handsome modern edifice, with a noble Corinthian portico, copied from the Pantheon at Rome, built partly on the site of a college of Jesuits. It was founded by William I., King of Holland, in 1826. The Entrance-hall, the Stair-case, and the Amphitheatre, where academic meetings are held and the prizes are distributed, are very fine, exhibiting great taste, and reflecting the highest credit on the architect, M. Roelandts. The Museum of natural history is of considerable extent, without any claim to great superiority for its collections. The library amounts to 60,000 volumes. The number of students is about 350. The entrance is behind, in the Rue longue des Marais. The Hdtel de Vide, not far from the Belfry, has two fayades in totally dif- ferent styles of architecture: the one (built in 1482), “a florid mixture of French Flamboyant and English Tudor gothic: the flat pointed arches are quite in the English pattern”—F. S. ; the other (1600-20), facing the Mar- che au Beurre, has columns of 3 differ- ent orders one above another. The Congress of Confederates, who assem- bled in 1576 to expel the Spaniards from Belgium, signed the treaty known in history as the Pacification of Ghent in the Salle du Trone. The interior of the building contains one or two modern paintings, but is not entitled to very great admiration. The Cabinet of M. von Saceghem con- tains some very superior old paintings. The Avocat cTHuyvitter has a collection of antiquities of the middle ages painted glass, goblets, vases, furniture, &c. worth notice. The Museum or Academy, Rue] St. Marguerite (entrance at the side of the Augustine Church: admission at all hours with a fee): has no good pic- tures. These are the best s Rubens — St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, or 5 holy wounds; formerly in the Church of Recollets, where Sir J. R. saw it. He says of the figure of St. Francis that it is “ without dignity, and more like a beggar; though his dress is mean, he ought surely to be represented with the dignity and simplicity of a saint. Upon the whole, Rubens would appear to no great advantage at Ghent, if it was not for the picture in St. Bavon.”—Sir J, R.—21. The Last Judgment; M. Coxie. — The Emperor Charles V. landing in Africa. — Fran- cis I. made prisoner at Pavia, yields up his sword to De Lannoy, a Flemish knight. — Rough sketched executed with great boldness, and made by Gas- par-de Crayer to decorate the arch of triumph, erected on the occasion of the visit of the Infant Ferdinand to Ghent. J. Jordaens — The Woman taken in Adultery. T. Duchatel — The Instal- lation of the Emperor Charles VI., 1668, as Count of Flanders, in the Marche au Vendredi. A great num- ber of figures in the manner of Teniers. A great part of the collection consists of modern pictures. The Marche au Vendredi (Vrydags Markt) is a large square, surrounded by ancient houses, named from the day on which the market is held in it. The ceremonies of the inauguration of the Counts of Flanders were celebrated on this spot, with a pomp and splendour hardly to be conceived at present. Here also was the rendezvous of the “ Trades’ Unions” of the middle ages, whenever a real or supposed breach of the privileges of their guilds or corpo- rations on the parts of their rulers ex- cited these turbulent spirits, “ ces tetes dures de Flandres,” to rebellion. Here their standards were planted, around which they rallied in arms. On this spot, Jacques van Artevelde, descended from one of the noblest families of Flanders, but called the Brewer of Ghent, because he had enrolled himself in the corporation of brewers to flatter138 ROUTE 21.—GHENT. VAN ARTE VELDE. Sect. n. the popular vanity by ranking himself among the people, at the head of his partisans, chiefly weavers, encountered the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic broil, with such bloodthirsty fury, that the presence of the host, which was brought out upoti the spot to separate the combatants, was disregarded, and 1500 corpses of citizens slain by fellow- citizens were left on the square. The -day was afterwards marked in the annals of the town as Evil Monday. It was in this place, 40 years after, that Jacques’s son, Philip van Artevelde, was saluted Ruwaert or Protector of Ghent, and received (1381) the oath of fidelity from his townsmen, when called upon to lead them against their oppressor, Louis de Male. The story of van Artevelde is told in Henry Taylor’s Drama. In the Marche au Vendredi, also, at a later period, under the Duke of Alva, were lighted the fires of the Inquisi- tion. Many thousands perished during those religious persecutions, which dis- > persed the best and most industrious citizens of Ghent over other lands, and struck a fatal blow at her commercial prosperity.—In a street close to the March£, called the Mannekens Aert, is an enormous cannon, one of the largest in existence, being 18 ft. long and 10^ in circumference, named De dttUe Griete, or Mad Margery; it is of hammered iron, was made in the days of Philip le Bon, and; used by the Gantois at the siege of Oudenarde, 1382, and again in 1452. In the Place St. Pharailde, near the Marche aux Poissons, still stands the old turreted gateway, called the Ottde- burg, or 5’ Greevensteen, the Count’s Stone (t. e. castle), a relic of the castle of the Counts of Flanders, built by Baldwin Bras de Fer, 868. The small portion that remains of the building, consisting of an old archway and turret, is now incorporated in a cotton factory. The area within is occupied by houses of the meanest kind. It deserves to be visited, however, as one of the oldest existing buildings in Belgium, and the interior contains some curious vestiges of its ancient origin. In the years 1338-9, it was the residence of Edward III. and his family; and his Queen Philippa here gave birth to a son, who was called, from his birth-place, John of Gaunt. An intimate alliance ex- isted for many years between the men of Ghent, or Gaunt, and the English, particularly during the reigns of the Edwards. The Flemings were deeply interested in procuring our wool for their cloths; the English sovereigns, on the other hand, were glad to secure “ the good towns” and weavers of Flanders as allies to assist them in their designs upon the crown of France, and threatened to prohibit the exporta- tion of wool when ■ the men of Gaunt opposed their wishes, or refused to eip- brace their cause. Jacques van Artevelde, the Brewer of Ghent, was a faithful ally of Edward III., who used familiarly to call him “ his dear Gossip; ” and the Queen Philippa stood godmother to his son Philip. It was at his suggestion that Edward assumed the title of King of France, and quartered the fleurs de lis with the arms of England, from which they were not removed till the end of the last century. The English con- nection was in the end fatal to Jacques, and led to his being killed by the citi- zens, whom he had so often led as easily as sheep,- by his talents, courage, and eloquence. In 1344, Edward III. crossed over to Sluys at the invitation of Jacques, who, relying on his influ- ence with the eitizens, had promised to make him lord' and heritor of Flanders. But this proposal was distasteful to the men of Ghent, who were unwilling to disinherit their natural lord; and, dur- ing Van Artevelde’s absence to confer with Edward, the popular discontent against him, increased by rumours that, during liis administration of the affairs of Flanders, he had secretly sent large sums of money out of the country to England, was excited in a high degree, and “ set them of Gaunt on fire.” “ As he rode into the town about noon, they of the town knew of his coming, and many were assembled together in the street where he should pass, and when they saw him they began to murmur.139 Belgium. boute 21.—Ghent. and to run together their heads in one hood, and said, ‘ Behold yonder great master, who will order all Flanders after his pleasure, the which is not to be suffered.’ As he rode through the street, he perceived that there was.some new matter against him, for he saw such as were wont to make reverence to him as he came by, turn their backs towards him, and enter into their houses. Then he began to doubt, and as soon as he was alighted in. his lodg- ing, he closed fast his doors, gates, and windows. This was scant done, but all the street was full of men, and espe- cially those of the small crafts, who assailed his house both behind and be- fore.” Though stoutly resisted, their numbers prevailed. : Artevelde. in vain addressed them from au upper .window; the eloquent tongue was now little heeded in the frenzy of popular excite- ment. “ When Jacques saw that he could not appease them, he drew in his head and closed the window, and so thought to steal out on the backside, into a church that joined his house, but it. was so ■ broken that 400 persons were entered. in, and finally there he was taken and slain without mercy, and one Thomas Denys gave him his death stroke.” — Froissart. A metal shield on the balcony of a house near the cor- ner of the Place du Calendre marks the; scene of his murder. ,Van Artevelde’s house was situated inthe Padden Hoek (Toad’s Corner). Many military and commercial trea- ties were made with the English; by both the Arteveldes : they aided each other with troops on land and ships at sea; and the connection. between the - two aountries, was not finally broken off until the time of Philip the Bold. The marriage of the Grand Duke Maximilian with .Mary, of Burgundy, heiress of CharleS the Bold, was cele- brated at Ghent, 1477. By this alli- ance the Low Countries were added to the Austrian dominions. A short time before it took place, the famous Oliver the Barber, called Le Diable, was dispatched;.by liis master, Louis XL, to obtain the hand of Mary for bis, soq, or, failing in this, to stir up VAN ABTEVELDE. rebellion among the men of Ghent. His mission failed; his intrigues were frustrated ; and he was dismissed with disgrace, after having impudently de- manded a private audience with the princess, which her council of state refused, alleging the laws of etiquette, and even of decency, forbade such an interview with “ cette jeune demoiselle qui etoit a marier.” The Emp. Charles V. was born at Ghent, in the palace now pulled down, but its site is marked by a street named after it, Cour des Princes. It is re- lated that he first saw the light in a water-closet, which ignoble birth-place was afterwards handsomely- furnished and transformed into a splendid apart- ment. The turbulence and sedition of 'liis subjects and fellow-citizens of Ghent repeatedly gave annoyance to Charles, till at length a . more formid- able insurrection broke -out, which, spreading through Flanders, threatened to sever the province from his domi- nions. It originated in the discontent caused by his demand of an enormous subsidy from the - citizens to carry on the war - against France; which was soon fomented into open rebellion. Having put the town into a state of defence, they, secretly tendered their allegiance to Francis I. He, however not only declined the offer, but very treacherously disclosed the. secret to the Emperor. Charles was in Spain ; but no sooner did this intelligence reach his ears than he decided upon putting down the treason in person. To save time he -daringly resolved to cross the dominions of his rival Francis (with whom he had recently been partially reconciled), trusting to his chivalrous generosity not > to take advantage - of this confidence; . Great tfas the con- sternation in Ghent when it was an- nounced-that Charles, who was sup- posed to be many hundred miles off, had suddenly arrived before the city, and had surrounded it with a large army. Messengers were dispatched to sue for his forgiveness ; but without granting conditions, he demanded in- stant admittance within the walls.; then posting guards at the gates, he pro-140 ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CHARLES V. CITADEL. Sect. II. ceeded to take measures for chastising the inhabitants. It was while deli- berating on the. punishment to be in- flicted, that the infamous Duke of Alva suggested the annihilation of the whole city (p. 134.). Charles, however, was satisfied with a cruel, but less sweep- ing, retribution ; 14 of the ringleaders were beheaded; others were banished, and their goods forfeited. The city was declared guilty of leze-majeste, and, in consequence, the magistrates and principal citizens, the chiefs of the guilds and of the corporation of weav- ers, were compelled to present them- selves before Charles in black gowns, with bare heads and feet, and with baiters round their necks, and to de- mand pardon on their knees. He ex- acted as a further penalty, that the magistrates should never appear in public without the halter. This, which was intended as a badge of ignominy, was afterwards converted into a decor- ation. The rope, in the course of years, became a rich silken cord, and was worn round the neck as an orna- ment, tied with a true lover’s knot in front. By the same sentence all the privileges of the city, together with the cannon and other arms of the common- alty {commune), of the trades, and of the weavers’ guild, were confiscated; and even the famous bell, called Ro- land, which was convicted of having played a very turbulent part with its tongue during the insurrection, was taken down from the Beffroi. As a further check to their turbu- lence, and for the entire restriction of their liberties, the Emperor soon after laid the first stone of the Citadel (chateau des Espagnols), situated on the eastern side of the town, not far from the Porte d’Anvers; to make room for it he removed 800 houses from the ancient quarter of St. Bavon. This fortress served afterwards as a prison to the Counts Egmont and Horn; and wheu the Flemings took up arms to throw off the Spanish yoke, 1570, it was besieged by the towns- people under the Prince of Orange. It was long and vigorously defended by the Spaniards. At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing white shirts over their clothes to distinguish themselves, attempted to carry it by assault on the 10th of November. The ladders, how- ever, were too short, and they were compelled to retire with loss. The next morning, while they were preparing to renew the attack, the Spaniards sent to capitulate. When at length terms were granted, the besiegers were not a little astonished to see the Senora Mon- dragon march out at the head of 150 men and a number of women and chil- dren, the sole remains of the garrison, whom she had headed and commanded during the whole siege, in the absence of her husband the governor, assisted by the other females. The citadel was afterwards levelled with the ground, by a decree of the States General; and the citizens, with their wives and chil- dren, working like common labourers, assisted in demolishing the stronghold of tyranny; but some of the casemates and shattered walls remain, as well as parts of cloisters and a small octagonal Chapel of St. Macarius, in the Ro- manesque style. These latter are the ruins of the monastery of St. Bavon. The lower story of the chapel is more perfect than any other part of the building. The vault has been covered with stucco, and ornamented with colours, now for the rinost part destroyed. The date of the building is probably about 1067. It is not far from the Railway station, towards th6 east. The Beguinage is one of the few nun- neries not suppressed by Joseph II.> or swept away by the torrent of the French Revolution. It is of great extent, with streets, squares, and gates surrounded by a wall and moat. It is certainly worthy a visit. At the hour of vespers, strangers should repair to the chapel, where they will have an Op- portunity of seeing the whole sister- hood assembled. They amount to more than 600, and many are persons of wealth and rank. The sight of so larg6 an assemblage, all in black robes and white veils (the ancient Flemish faille, which they still retain), barely illumi- nated by the evening light and a fewBelgium, route 21.—Ghent, byloque. promenades. 141 lamps, lias a picturesque effect. The novices are distinguished by a different dress ; and those who have just taken the veil wear a chaplet round their heads. “ The chanting of a small, but by no means select choir, in the music gallery, derives its interest and impres- siveness from the frame work (so to say) of scenery and costume in which it is set. As a whole, the service is very striking, and should on no account be missed.” — H. F. C. The sisters live generally in separate houses. On the doors are inscribed the names, not of the tenant of the house, but of some saint who has been adopted as its pro- tectress. This is the principal esta- blishment of the order, which numbers in Belgium 6000 sisters. The Beguines are bound by no vow ; they may return into the world whenever they please : but it is their boast that no sister has ever been known to quit the order after having once entered it. They attend to the sick in the Beguinage, or go out as nurses into the town, and are constantly seen at the Hospital. There is an English Church appro- priated to the Episcopal Service on the Braband Dam. It is the only Pro- testant church in Ghent. The Byloque (a Flemish word sig- nifying enclosure) is the principal Hospital of Ghent : it was founded 1225, and is capable of holding 600 sick. Jacques van Artevelde, it is believed, was buried in the church of the Byloque, after having been assas- sinated in his own house. It was in the Byloque that he was proclaimed by his townsmen Ruwaert, or Protector of Flanders, and here he assembled the men of Ghent to plead in favour of an alliance between them and Ed- ward III. The Promenades at Ghent are, the double avenue of trees by the side of the Coupure, or canal, cut in 1758, to unite the Lys and the Bruges canal together. Near it is the Penitentiary (Maison de Detention), an octagon building of vast extent, begun 1772, tuid finished 1824. A prison truly is an object which an Englishman can see frequently enough in his own country, but this is particularly well managed { it was held up as a pattern by Howard the philanthropist, and has served as a model for many others, not only in Europe, but in America. As in Bel- gium, the penalty of death is abolished ; criminals of the deepest dye are here confined for life, and made to work hard. The New Cassino, a handsome build- ing by Roelands, stands also near the Coupure, and is well worth notice. It has a literary and scientific as well a social destination. Exhibitions of flowers take place in the lower apartments. The Kauter (a Flemish word signi- fying a field), or Place d'Armes, within the town, is a large square planted with trees, and surrounded by large build- ings, among them 3 Clubs—of the mili- tary, nobles, and merchants. A military band usually plays here on summer evenings. The Boulevards around the town, anciently the ramparts, are also agreeable walks. On the Quai aux Herbes stands the Maison des Bateliers, the oldest house in Ghent, having the date 1513. The insignia of the waterman's craft (whose guild was held here) are carved on its gables (§ 25.). Hubert Van Eyck, the painter, lived in a house at the corner of the Rue des Vaches and the Marche aux Oiseaux, near the Kauter : it has received a modern front. A splendid collection of enamelled stone ware (Gres de Flandre), and of German and Venetian glass belonging to the family Huyvetter, is well worth a visit. Several buildings recently erected by the town of Ghent would do credit to the first capitals of Europe. A New Theatre has been built in the corner of the Place d'Armes. Its sa- loon, concert, and ball-rooms are mag- nificent, and they are well worth a visit. The building cost the town of Ghent 2,500,000 fr. The Palais de Justice, another striking new building by Roelands, stands in the Rue du Theatre, a new and handsome street. The ground floor serves as the142 BOUTE 21 A.--BRUGES: TO COURTRAI. Sect. ir. Exchange; the upper chambers are appropriated as courts of justice. The Jardindes Plantes, belonging to the University, said to be the finest in Belgium, is far from deserving the praise commonly given to it. The Post Office is in the Rue de l’Universite. Vigilantes, § 22. A. The modern Citadel, begun 1822, and finished 1830, is situated on the only height near the town, Mont Blandin ; it is one of the chain of fortresses de- fending the Belgian frontier, and com- mands the course of the Schelde and Lys. Ghent communicates with the sea by a grand' Canal, recently finished, which enters the Schelde at Terneuse. It gives the city all the advantages of a sea-port; vessels drawing 18 feet water can unload in the basin under its walls. At Sas van Ghent, about 14 m. north, are sluices, by means of which the whole country could be laid under water. Railroad. — Ghent to Courtrai and Lille (on the way to Paris). Rte. 15. Railroad, Ghent to Mechlin, 56 kilom. On quitting Ghent the Railway crosses the Schelde* and is carried along the S. side of it, approaching now and then one of its sweeping curves. 7 Melle St. 7 Wetteren St., 9000 inhab. 6 Wichelen St. 7 Audeghem St. Alost is 3 m. from this Stat. : omnibuSses ply thither, meeting the trains (see R. 19. p. 124.). The river Dender is crossed before reaching 2 Dendermonde Stat. (Inns: Aigle; Demi-Lune.) The Church of Notre Dame, the oldest building, contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shep- herds, by Van Dyk; a Virgin and Saints, by Grayer, and an ancient font. Ter- jnonde, or Dendermonde, a name ren- dered familiar to English ears by “ my Uncle Toby’s” constant reference to the siege of 1706, is a strongly fortified town of 8000 inhab. on the rt. bank of the Schelde, at its junction with the Dender. By means of sluices the sur- rounding country, which is marshy, can be laid under water. Louis XIV., who had been nearly drowned, along with his army, in attempting its siege in 1667, when told that Marlborough was about to besiege it, replied, “he must have an army of ducks to take it.” Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison were quickly obliged to surrender un- conditionally to the English. 9 Malderen St. 10 Capelle St, The Louvain canal is crossed shortly before the railway reaches 8 Mechlin Stat. (See Rt. 23.)’ ROUTE 21 a. BRUGES TO COURTRAI.---RAILWAY. Bruges. (Route 21.) Station, the same as that of the Ghent and Ostend Railway, Thorout Stat. Thorout stands in a fertile country. .A little coarse woollen cloth and much excellent lace is manu- factured here. Two annual fairs* in June and July, are held here. It is a very ancient town, and at the beginning of the eighth century is mentioned as a place of considerable traffic. It has a small Stad-Huys and a large collegiate church, but neither remarkable. Near it is the Castle of Winendale, once a hunting-seat of Robert the Frison, 10th Earl of Flanders (1090), and said to have been built by Odoacer V., Grand Forester of Flanders, in the early part of the 9th century. Here the Bp. of Lincoln and his fellow-commissioner, sent by Edward I. (1297), negotiated the marriages of Edward P, of Wales and the daughter of Phillip, King of France,- and of Edward himself and the sister of that monarch. Lichtervelde Stat. Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. This town is seated on a smaller stream, called the Mander, amidst very fine meadows. In ancient records it is called Rollarium in pratis. The Stad-Huys is a long ancient building in the market t- place, in the middle of the town. It has a large square tower, apparently more ancient than the bodyj of theBelgium. ROUTE 22.—GHENT TO ANTWERP. 143 building, at its southern end, and a slender but graceful miniature spire in its centre. The church is a plain and rather small structure, with a very beau- tiful spire. It stands to the rear of the west side of the market-place. As it was built on the site of an ancient church, burnt in 1478, its date must be about the beginning of the 16th cen- tury. Some of the best lace in Flanders is manufactured at Roulecs, and a small quantity of woollen stuff. I^pgliem Stat. Courtrai Stat. (See Route 16.) ROUTE 22. GHENT TO ANTWERP. — RAILROAD.: 31 Eng. miles, 2 hours. • The road passes through the Pays de Waes, one of the most populous districts, the best cultivated, and the most pro. ductive for its extent, in all Europe. At the time of the civil wars in Flanders, it was nothing more than a bare and open heath. At present there is not an inch of ground which is not rendered productive in the highest degree: every field receives as much care and attention as a garden, or a bed of tulips ; and the natural soil, little better than barren sand, has been covered artificially with the richest mould. (See Holland, In- trod. § 17.) Though the country is flat, it is far from uninteresting, being varied with large villages and neat farms, co- vered with beautiful cattle, the richest and closest fields of corn or crops of flax, and inhabited by a healthful popu- lation. The district of St. Nicholas, perhaps the most thickly peopled in Europe in proportion to its extent, numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square league. The mode of farming pursued in this district is worthy the attention of every agriculturist. Such a pattern of laborious cultivation is not to be found in the whole of Europe. The land is singularly subdivided among a great number of srtiall proprietors. In a distance of SO kilometres, 705 plots, belonging to 500 different persons, are crossed. Each holding averages §ds of a hectare, and is surrounded by hedges and trees. The castle of Loochristy, not far to the N. of the road, is an interesting specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16th cent. It is surrounded by a wide moat, approached by a draw- bridge. It was once a hunting-seat of the Bishops of Ghent. Bienvelde Stat. Lokeren, Stat. (Inn, Quartre Sceaux), a town of 16,000 inhab. There are extensive bleaching-grounds here. St. Nicholas, Stat. (Inn, H. de Flan- dres), 18,850 inhab., said to have the largest market of flax in the world. Its great square is scarcely big enough to hold the crowd assembled oil market days. Beveren Stat. Beyond the neat village of Zwyn- drecht, the cathedral of Antwerp comes in sight. For 3 years the whole dis- trict, and even the high road, lay many feet under water, introduced by cutting the dykes above the Tete de Flandres during the siege of Antwerp, 12 Dutch gun-boats floated over the polders, or -fields, which are many feet lower than the level of the river at high water. The coming and receding tides covered the surface with sand ; and the ground, saturated with salt water, and deprived, by its injurious influence, of all vege- tation, for a long time put on the ap- pearance of the sea-shore, or remained a barren morass, interspersed with pools. The industrious efforts of the owners- have made some progress in reclaiming from the condition of an unproductive waste this territory, which, owing to its natural fertility and its vicinity to a large city, was of very great value. Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so great a bend, as to convert its left bank into a tongue of land. The only ap- proach to Antwerp on this side lies along the top of the dykes which inter- sect the low polders, and divide them from one another and from the Schelde. At the extremity of this tongue of land is situated the Fort called Tete de Flandre (het Vlaemsche Hoofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of the Tiver, exactly opposite Antwerp,144 ROUTE 22.—GHENT TO ANTWERP. Sect. II. forming a principal outwork and tete du pont to that fortified town. It con- tains a few small houses within its ram- part. Napoleon considered its situation more advantageous than even that of Antwerp, and designed to found a new city here. See p. 155. The Ghent railway station is here; the passengers and private carriages are embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which plies across the Schelde every 1 hour. The best view of Antwerp is obtained from this point. The Schelde is nearly 500 yards wide here, and is deep enough for a 74-gun ship. The “ coupure,” or cutting of the dyke, by which the Dutch laid the land on the L bank under water, was made a little way above the Tete de Flandres, op- posite the citadel. The repairs of this breach cost 2 millions of francs. Antwerp (French, Anvers; Flem. Antwerpen; Span. Amberes). Inns: H. du Grand Laboreur, Place de Meir, an old-established house; — H. St. An- toine ;—H. dii Pare, both on the Place Verte, near the cathedral; both well managed, and much commended. Ta- bles-d’hbte at 2 and 41; good, and re- spectably attended. 2d Class Inns: H. des Etrangers, on the Quai; H. d’Angleterre ; FI. des Pays-Bas. Antwerp is a strongly fortified city, with a citadel, on the right bank of the Schelde (L’Escaut, Fr.), which is here navigable for vessels of large burden ; the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is brackish. The most probable and sim- ple derivation of the name is from the Flemish words “ aen’t werf,” on the wharf, or quay. Antwerp contains 79,000 inhab. In the height of its splendour and prosperity, that is to say, in the 16th century, it is said to have numbered 200,000, but it was then the richest and most commercial city in Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were princes in wealth, and their houses splended palaces. No city of Belgium presents grander streets and squares, tiie finest of which is the Place de Meir; and its magnificent line of Quays along the Schelde are unrivalled in the country. The cathedral, near the centre of the town, is surrounded by several open squares, but there is a want of a main street between it, the Place de Meir and the Schelde, to pierce the intervening stacks of buildings inter- sected by an intricate labyrinth of narrow lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. An old author, describing the condition of Antwerp in the days of Charles V., says that 2500 vessels were sometimes seen at one time lying in the river, laden with the productions of all quarters of the globe : 500 loaded wag- gons on an average entered its gates daily from the country. ,The money put into circulation annually exceeded 500,000,000 guilders, and 5000 mer- chants met twice every day on the exchange. The decay and. fall of its prosperity is to be traced to the tyranny of the cruel Alva, under the directions of his bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain. The establishment of the Inquisition by him, and the persecutions occasioned by it, drove thousands of industrious inhabitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. To this persecution England is indebted for her silk manufactures, which were introduced by Flemish refugees from Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. Another blow to its prosperity was the memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, which ended in its capture by the Duke of Parma, one of the most memorable exploits of modern warfare, whether we consider the strength of the place, the hearty resistance offered by the citizens, who yielded at last only when starved out by famine, or the political consequences resulting from it. (See p. 123.) Then came the loss of the navigation of the Schelde, which fell into the hands of the Dutch at the union of the Seven United Provinces; and the subsequent closing of the river by the peace of Westphalia, 1648, com- pleted its commercial ruin, from which it was only beginning to recover when the Revolution of 1830 broke out. In consequence of that event, the most profitable commerce which Antwerp carried on with the Dutch colonies is annihilated; the richest merchants have quitted it, repairing to Rotterdam or Amsterdam; its manufactures arePOL r> K R s ‘■'"•S',., ZWYKD RE C H T Fort du I Nord / •test _jp pflrejta S &»§©' JoRUf 1 Citadel 1 Cathedral.. 2 S? Jacques............. FF 3 StPaid (Dominicans J.....F d 4 Sf-Augustin...—--------- De 5 S?Andre _______________ Dd 6 St Antoine. (CapxuhinsX__Gf 7 S? Charles (Jesuits)....Fe 8 Museum —............... F e 9 Hotel de JTUe____________Ed 17 House of the Hanseatic league...H d> 18 Reguinage...... ... G f 19 Ralais de Justice E e 20 Salle d’Hccposition Y e 21 Theatre des Ycaietes.M f ID Bourse Longitude from Greenwich. 4°. 22'E. from Published by John. Murrxu) Albemarle Street London 1819. Engraved try J. te C .Walker.145 Belgium. route 22.—Antwerp, cathedral. nearly ruined, its docks comparatively empty, and its streets deserted. Within the last few years it has recovered a from its encouragement of the arts, and the eminent artists it has produced. It would be sufficient to mention the great names of Rubens (who lived here, and whose parents were of Antwerp), and of Vandyck, without alluding to others 'also great in their way, as Te- niers, Jordaens, Quentin Matsys, &c., who were all natives of Antwerp or its neighbourhood. Trade and commerce have, indeed, deserted it, but their con- sequences, in a variety of instances, par- ticularly in the great works of art produced here, still remain behind ; the power and genius of Rubens, espe- cially, whose masterpieces still exist here, are nowhere else to be equally understood and appreciated. The Aca- demy or Corporation of St. Luke, in this city, for the encouragement of painting, was one of the oldest societies of the kind in Europe; it was founded in 1454 by Philip the Good, and en- dowed by Philip IV. of Spain, and may be regarded as the cradle of the Flemish school. A colossal statue of Rubens, by Geefs, a native of Antwerp, has been erected on the Place Verte, in front of ' The Cathedral of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches and most beau- tiful specimens of Gothic architecture in the Netherlands. It is believed to have been commenced in the middle of the 13th century, and to have taken 84 years to finish. It was burnt in 1533, but the tower and choir were preserved. It was rebuilt the following year. The interior is simple and im- posing : it is 500 feet long and 250 wide, and the effect of the vastness of its lofty choir and nave, with treble aisles on each side, is assisted by its being all finished on the same uniform plan, and left open. In the choir, a chapter of the Golden Fleece was held in 1555 by Philip II. of Spain, at which nine kings and sovereign princes were present, and assisted as knights of the order. part of its fprmer prosperity. Antwerp enjoys a high The great attraction in this church is the celebrated masterpiece of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross. It hangs in the S. transept, near the door lead- ing out of the Place Verte. On one of the lateral pieces or folding doors is represented the Salutation of the Vir- gin ; on the other the Presentation of the Infant Jesus in the Temple; and on the back of them are a colossal figure of St. Christopher carrying the infant Saviour, and a hermit. “ This picture, of all the works of Rubens, is that which has the most reputation. I had consequently con- ceived the highest idea of its excel- lencies ; knowing the print, ’ I had formed in my imagination what such a composition would produce in the hands of such a painter. I confess I was disappointed. However, this dis- appointment did not proceed from any deficiency in the picture itself; had it been in the original state in which Rubens left it, it must have appeared very different; but it is mortifying to see to what degree it has suffered by cleaning and mending. That brilliant effect, which it undoubtedly once had, is lost in a mist of varnish, which ap- pears to be chilled or mildewed. The Christ is in many places retouched, so as to be visible at a distance; the St. John’s head repainted; and other parts, on a close inspection, appear to be chipping off, and ready to fall from the canvass. However, there is enough to be seen to satisfy any connoisseur, that in its perfect state it well deserved all its reputation. " The composition of this picture is said to be borrowed from an Italian print. The greatest peculiarity of this composition is the contrivance of the white sheet on which the body of Jesus lies: this circumstance was probably what induced Rubens to adopt the composition. He well knew what effect white linen, opposed to flesh, must have, with his powers of colouring; a circumstance which was not likely to enter into the mind of an Italian painter*, who probably would have * Rubens probably obtained the idea of this picture from a celebrated one of the same sub- H146 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. Sect. II. been afraid of the linen’s hurting the colouring of the flesh, and have kept it down by a low tint. And the truth is, that none but great colourists can ven- ture to paint pure white linen near flesh ; but such know the advantage of it. I consider Rubens’s Christ as one of the finest figures that ever was in- vented: it is most correctly drawn, and, I apprehend, in an attitude of the ut- most difficulty to execute. The hang- ing of the head on his shoulder, and the falling of the body on one side, gives it such an appearance of the hea- viness of death, that nothing can ex- ceed it. • “ Of' the three Maries, two of them have more beauty than he generally bestowed on female figures; but no great elegance of character. The St. Joseph of Arimathea is the same coun- tenance which he so often introduced in his works; a smooth fat face, — a very unhistorical character. The prin- cipal light is formed by the body of Christ and the white sheet; there is no second light which bears any proportion to the principal. In this respect it has more the manner of Rembrandt’s' dis- position of light than any other of Rubens’s works : however, there are many detached lights distributed at some distance from the great mass, such as the head and shoulders of the Magdalen, the heads of the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, and the back and arm of the figure leaning over the cross; the whole surrounded with a dark sky, except a little light in the horizon, and above the cross. “ The historical anecdote relating to this picture says that it was given in exchange for a piece of ground (belong- ing to the guild of Arquebusiers), on which Rubens built his house; and that the agreement was only for a pic- ture representing their patron, St. Chris- topher, with the Infant Christ on his shoulders. Rubens, who wished to surprise them by his generosity, sent 5 pictures instead of one; a piece of >n it Dy Micnaei Angelo; tn similarity in the two works. gallantry on the side of the painter, which was undoubtedly well received by the Arquebusiers, since it was so much to their advantage, however ex- pensive to the maker of it. It was undertaken 1611 and set up 1612. All those pictures were intended to refer to the name of their patron Chris- topher. " In the first place, the body of Christ on the altar is borne by St.John, St. Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Mag- dalen, &c. On one side of the left door is the Salutation of Mary and Eliza- beth. The Virgin here bears Christ before he is born.”—Sir J. R. The two doors when closed form a single picture, representing St. Chris- topher himself bearing the Infant on his shoulders, guided by the light of a hermit’s lantern. “ The hermit appears to be looking to the other side; one hand holds the lantern, and the other is very naturally held up to prevent the light from coming upon his eyes. On the reverse of this door, we have an- other Christopher, the priest Simeon bearing Christ high in his arms, and looking upwards. This picture, which has not suffered, is admirable indeed, the head of the priest more especially, which nothing can exceed ; the ex- pression, drawing, and colouring are beyond all description, and as fresh as if the piece were just painted. The colouring of the St. Christopher is too red and bricky, and the outline is not flowing. This figure was all that the company of the Arquebusiers expected; but Rubens justly thought that such a figure would have made but a poor subject for an altar.”—R. This picture was taken by the French to Paris, and while there underwent a very judicious reparation and cleaning; so that it is probably in far better con- dition now than when seen by Sir Joshua. At any rate, it is the opinion of the best judges, that his praise of this truly wonderful picture is on the whole too qualified. He has omittpd to men- tion the well-known story of the share which Vandyck is said to have had in the painting. While the work was in progress, and during the absence ofROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. CATHEDRAE. 147 Belgium. Rubens, the picture was thrown down by accident or carelessness of his pupils, and received serious injury in the fall. Vandyck was selected as the most skil- ful hand among them to repair the damage, and succeeded so well, that Rubens, on his return, declared that he preferred his scholar’s work to his own. The parts restored by him were the cheek and chin of the Virgin, and the arm of the Magdalen. In the opposite or N. transept is the Elevation of the Cross, “ the first public work which Rubens executed after he returned from Italy. In the centre is Christ nailed to the cross, with a num- ber of figures exerting themselves in different ways to raise it. One of the figures appears flushed, all the blood rising into his face from his violent efforts; others in intricate attitudes, which, at the same time that they show the great energy with which the busi- ness is done, give that opportunity which painters desire, of encountering the difficulties of the art, in foreshort- ening and in representing momentary actions. This subject, which was pro- bably of his own choosing, gave him an admirable opportunity of exhibiting his various abilities to his countrymen: and it is certainly one of his best and most animated compositions. “ The bustle which is in every part of the picture makes a fine contrast in the character of resignation in the crucified Saviour. The sway of the body of Christ is extremely well ima- gined. The taste of the form in the Christ, as well as in the other figures, must be acknowledged, to be a little inclinable to the heavy; but it has a noble, free, and flowing outline. The invention of throwing the cross ob- liquely from one corner of. the picture to the other is finely conceived ---some- thing in the manner of Tintoret: it gives a new and uncommon, air to his subject, and we may justly add, that it is uncommonly beautiful. The contrast of the body with the legs is admirable, and not overdone. “ The doors are a continuation of the subject. That on the right has a group of women and children, who appear to feel the greatest emotion and horror at the sight : [the Virgin and St. John, who are behind, appear very properly with more resignation. On the other door are the officers on horseback at- tending ; behind them are the two thieves, whom the executioners are nailing to the cross. “ It is difficult to imagine a subject better adapted for a painter to exhibit his art of composition than the present; at least Rubens has had the skill to make it serve, in an eminent degree, for that purpose. In the naked figures of the Christ and of the executioners, he had ample room to show his know- ledge of the anatomy of the human body in different characters. There are likewise women of different ages, which is always considered as a necessary part of every composition in order to pro- duce variety ; there are, besides, chil- dren and horsemen ; and, to have the whole range of variety, he has even added a dog, which he has introduced in an animated attitude, with bis mouth open, as if panting; admirably well painted. His animals are always to be admired; the horses here are perfect in their kind, of a noble character ani- mated to the highest degree. Rubens, conscious of his powers in painting horses, introduced them in his pictures as often as he could. This part of the work, where the horses are represented, is by far the best in regard to colour- ing : it has a freshness which the other two pictures want; but those appear to have suffered by the sun. The central picture, as well as that of the group of women, does not, for whatever reason, stand so high for co- lour as every other excellence. There is a dryness in the tint; a yellow-okery colour predominates over the whole; it has too much the appearance of a yellow, chalk drawing. I mean only to compare Rubens with himself: they might be thought excellent, even in this respect, were they the work of almost any other painter. The flesh, as well as the rest of the picture, seems to want grey tints, which is not a gene- ral defect of Rubens; on the contrary, his mezzotints are often too grey.. h 2148 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. STEEPLE. Sect. II. “ The blue drapery about the middle of the figure at the bottom of the cross, and the grey colour of some armour, are nearly all the cold colours in the picture, which are certainly not enough to qualify so large a space of warm colours. The principal mass of light is on the Christ’s body; but in order to enlarge it, and improve its shape, a strong light comes on the shoulder of the figure with a bald head the form of this shoulder is somewhat defective; it appears too round. “ Upon the whole, this picture must be considered as one of Rubens’ prin- cipal works.’’—R. It was executed in 1610, and retouched in 1627 by the painter, who added the Newfoundland dog at that time. A commission was appointed in March, 1849, to superin- tend the restoration of these two works of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross, and the Crucifixion. Over the high altar of the choir, which is fery splendid, hangs a third of Rubens’s most famous pictures, the Assumption of the Virgin. “ She is sur- rounded by a choir of angels: below are the apostles and a great number of figures. This picture has not so rich an appearance in regard to colour as many other pictures of Rubens; pro- ceeding, I imagine, from there being too much blue in the sky: however, the lower part of the picture has not that defect. It is said to have been painted in 16 days”—R. for 1600 florins ; Rubens’s usual terms being at the rate of 100 florins a-day. The Resurrection of our Saviour, by Rubens (in a small chapel S. of the choir), painted by him to adorn the tomb of his friend Moretus the Printer. “ An admirable picture, about, half the size of life; Christ coming out of the sepulchre, in great splendour, the soldiers terrified, and tumbling one over the other: the Christ is finely drawn, and of a rich colour. The St. John the Baptist on the door is likewise in his best manner, only his left leg is something too large. On the other door is St. Barbara, (? St. Catherine); the figure without character, and the colouring without brilliancy. The pre- dominant colour in her dress is purple, which has a heavy effect.”—R. Some curious pictures by Otto Vennius, lately discovered within one of the pillars near the roof, now hang in the small chapels. The New Stalls in the choir, designed by Professor Geerts, of Louvain, and executed by Durlet, of exquisite Go- thic tabernacle work, foliage, &c., in- terspersed with figures of saints, apos- tles, and scriptural groups, are remark- able for their elaborate execution. Only about ^ of them are fully completed; the figures occasionally betray rather a pedantic affectation of an archaic style, in long, lean forms, and stiff angular drapery. The Pulpit, carved in wood by Ver- bruggen, is a singular and tasteless piece of workmanship, representing Europe, Asia, Africa, and America; while the upper part consists of twining shrubs, and interlaced branches of trees, with various birds—mostly of species un- known in nature, — mere fanciful in- ventions of the artist; perched upon them. Some of the confessionals are also by Verbruggen, as well as several tombs and statues of marble in the choir; and the chapel of the Holy Sa- crament contains an altarcarved by him. In the chapel of St. Antoine is a painting by the younger Franck, of our Saviour disputing with the Doctors, among whom the painter has intro- duced portraits of Luther, Calvin, Eras- mus, and other reformers. “ There are some fine heads in this picture; particularly the three men that are looking on one book, are admirable characters; the figures are well drawn and well grouped; the Christ is but a poor figure.”—R. The Steeple, one of the loftiest in the world, 403 English ft. 7 in. high, is of such beautiful and delicate Gothic workmanship as to have caused the Emperor Charles V. to say it deserved to be kept in a case; while, from the minuteness of the carved work, Napo- leon compared it to Mechlin lace. It was begun by the architect Jan Amelius, 1422, and completed by Appelmans, of Cologne, 1518. It is not, however, toBelgium. route 22.—Antwerp, st. jacques. 149 be regarded as a structure solely of stone, but rather as a framework of iron bars, with bits of stone strung upon them like beads, held together by cop- per bolts, the gaps and interstices being filled up with plaster, and the joints partly covered with lead. The foun- dations of the tower descend many feet below the ground. It has been care- fully repaired and restored at great cost. The tower keeper (concierge) re- ceives 75 c. for 1 person, 1 fr. for 2, and 1 fr. 50 c. for 3 or more. According to the original design, it was intended to raise both towers to the same height. In the tower which is completed there is a very extensive set of chimes, composed of 99 bells and one very large bell, at the baptism of which the Emp. Charles V. stood god- father. It requires 16 men to ring it. During the partial bombardment of the town from the citadel in 1830, Gen. Chasse’s artillerymen knocked otf one or two small pinnacles of the steeple, and several shells fell into the houses immediately around the cathe- dral, and are preserved to this day as memorials. The view from the upper gallery takes in the towers of Bergen-op-Zoom, Flushing, Breda, Mechlin, Brussels, and Ghent. It commands the course of the Schelde; the position of the cita- del, Antwerp itself, and the surround- ing fortifications, with the entire theatre of the military operations of the French and Dutch in 1832 and 1833. (See pp. 143. and 156.) Near the foot of the tower is an old draw-well, now a Pump, covered with a broken Gothic canopy of iron, which deserves notice only from the tradition that it was the handiwork of Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp, who having fallen in love with the daughter of a painter, changed his pro- fession to obtain her father's consent to their marriage, and succeeded even better with the palette and pencil than he had at the forge and hammer, as his great work in the Museum here will testify. At the side of the west door of the Cathedral is a tablet to his me- mory with this Latin verse— ConnubialU Amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem. “ ’Twas love connubial taught the smith to paint.”—L.F.m. His body, originally buried in a church which the Spaniards pulled down to make way for the citadel, was re-in- terred at the foot of the spire in J629. St. Jacques is a very handsome church, even more splendid than the cathedral in its internal decorations of marbles, painted glass, carved wood, and fine monuments. The principal families of the town had their burial vaults, pri- vate chapels, and altars in this church. The most remarkable is that which be- longed to the family of Rubens, situ- ated exactly behind the high altar. The tomb of the great painter is covered by a slab of white marble, bearing a long inscription, let into the pavement of the chapel. In 1793, when every other tomb in the church was broken open and pillaged by the revolutionary French, this alone was spared. The altar-piece in this chapel was painted for it by Rubens, and is considered one of his best and most pleasing works. It is a Holy Family in which he has introduced his own portrait as St. George, those of his two wives as Mar- tha and Mary Magdalen, his father as St. Jerome, his aged grandfather as Time, and Ins son as an Angel; one of the female heads is said to be the same as that called the Chapeau de Paille. Sir Joshua says of it, “ For effect of colour, this yields to none of Rubens’s works, and the characters have more beauty than is common with him. . To the painter who wishes to become a colourist, or learn the art of producing a brilliant effect, this picture is as well worth studying as any in Antwerp. It is as bright as if the sun shone upon it.” The white marble statue of the Virgin, above the picture, of beautiful workmanship, executed by Du Quesnoy, was brought from Italy by Rubens himself. The entrance to St. Jacques is in the Longue Rue Neuve: the best time for visiting it is between 12 and h 3150 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. ST. PAUL. ST. ANDREW’S. Sect. II. 4£, when there is no service; the pre- sence of the Kuster must be secured to unlock the chapel. In the S. transept is a very curious Raising of the Cross, carved in high relief^ out of a single stone, by Ver- voort. In the second chapel on the left, as you enter the nave, is a good portrait (oval) by Vandyck, of Corne- lius Landschot. On the outside of St. Paid, or the Dominican Church (entrance in the Rue des Soeurs Noires), is an object deserving notice only as illustrative of the Romish religion. It is a repre- sentation of Calvary — an artificial emi- nence raised against the walls of the church, covered with slag or rock work, and planted with statues of saints, angels, prophets, and patriarchs. Oh the summit is the Crucifixion, and at the bottom is a grotto, copied or imi- tated, it is said, from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. On entering it, the body of Christ is seen encircled with vest- ments of silk and muslin ; while to the face of the rock, near the entrance, are attached boards carved and painted to represent the glowing flames of Pur- gatory, in the midst of which appears a number of faces, bearing the expres- sion of agony, and intended to remind the spectator of the sufferings of the souls of the wicked in that place of torment. Within the church, as you enter from the side of the Calvary, on the left of the door, is a singular painting by Teniers the father, representing the Seven Acts of Mercy. There is also here an excellent and wonderful pic- ture, the Scourging of Christ, by Ru- bens. “ This picture, though admirably painted, is disagreeable to look at; the black and bloody stripes are marked with too much fidelity; and some of the figures are awkwardly scourging with their left hand.”—R. The Ado- ration of the Shepherds is also attributed to him, “ but there is nothing in the picture by which his manner can be with ceTtainty recognised; there are parts which were certainly not painted by him, particularly the drapery of the Virgin.”—R. A Crucifixion, by Jor- daens, “ much in the manner of Rubens.” — Christ bearing the Cross, an early picture, by Vandyck. “ It is in many parts like the works of Rubens, parti- cularly the figure with his back towards the spectator, which is well drawn.”— R. The wood-work in this church is remarkably fine. St. Andrea's Ch. contains a fine altar sculptured by Verbruggen, and one of the most beautiful as well as singular of the carved pulpits so common in the Netherlands; it represents Andrew and Peter called from their boats and their nets by our Saviour, and was executed by Van Hool, the figures by Van Gbeel. It is a work of high merit; the figure of our Saviour displays a dignity not to be expected in this department of art. In the left transept is a picture of the Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto Vennius, Rubens’s master; and against a pillar facing the right tran- sept is a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, attached to a monument erected to the memory of two English ladies named Curie, who served her as ladies in waiting. One of them received her last embrace previous to her execution. The Ch. of the Augustins contains an altar-piece by Rubens, representing the marriage of St. Catherine, with the Virgin and Child surrounded by many saints. “ From the size of the picture, the great number of figures, and the skill with which the whole is conducted, it must be considered as one of the most considerable works of Rubens.” “ The Virgin and Infant Christ are repre- sented at one distance, seated on high on a sort of pedestal, which has steps ascending to it: behind the Virgin is St. Joseph ; on the right is St. Cathe- rine, receiving the ring from Christ. St. Peter and St. Paul are in the back- ground ; and to the left, on the steps, St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb and Angels. Below are St. Sebastian, St. Augustin, St. Laurence, Paul the Hermit, and St. George in armour ( Rubens himself). By way of link to unite the upper and the lower part of the picture, are four female saints half- way up the steps. The subject of this picture, if that may be called a subjectBelgium,, route 22.—Antwerp.; churches, museum. 151 where no story is represented, has no means of interesting the spectator : its value, therefore* must arise from another source : from the excellence of art, from the eloquence, as it may be called, of the artist. And in this the painter has shown the greatest skill, by. disposing of more than 20 figures, without com- position, and without crowding. The whole appears as much animated, and in motion, as it is possible for a picture to be, where nothing is doing; and the management of the masses of light and shade in this picture is equal to the skill shown in the disposition of the figures.” “ I confess I was so over- powered with the brilliancy of this pic- ture of Rubens, whilst I was before it, and under its fascinating influence, that 1 thought 1 had never before seen so great powers exerted in the art. It was not till I was removed from its in- fluence, that I could acknowledge any inferiority in Rubens to any other painter whatever.”—R. The head of St. Catherine is one of the most beau- tiful Rubens ever painted.. In the same church is the Ecstacy of St. Augustin, by Vandyck; it is, how- ever, by no means a faultless compo- sition. “ This picture is of great fame, but in some measure disappointed my expectations; at least, on just parting from the Rubens, the manner appeared hard and dry. The colouring is of a reddish kind, especially in the shadows, without transparency. The colours must have suffered some change, and are not now as Vandyck left them. This same defect of the red shadows I have observed in many of his pictures. The head of an elderly woman, said to be the saint’s mother, is finely drawn, and is the best part of the picture; and the angel sitting on a cloud is: the best of that group. The boy with the scep- tre is hard, and has no union with the blue sky. This picture has no effect, from the want of a large mass of light; the two angels make two small masses of equal magnitude.”—R. The Martyrdom of St. Appolina, by Jordaens. ■ “ There is not much to be admired in this picture, except the grey horse foreshortened, biting his knee, which is' indeed admirable, Jordaens’ horse was little inferior to those of Rubens.”—R. The Church of St. Anthony of Padua, or of the Capuchins, is only remarkable for two paintings contained in it, — a Dead Christ, by Vandyck; a Virgin and Child appearing to St. Francis, by Rubens. “ The Virgin and Christ are in a wretched hard manuer, and the characters are vulgar : there is, indeed, nothing excellent in this picture but the head of St. Francis, and that is ex- quisite.” — R. Church of St. Carlo Borromeo, or of the Jesuits. The very elegant fagade, erroneously attributed to Rubens, was designed by a Jesuit, Fr. Aguillon. • The interior was decorated with many fine pictures by Rubens, but it was der stroyed by lightning with its contents^ 1718. It was used as an hospital for wounded English soldiers after the battle of Waterloo. The Museum, or Academy of Paintr- ing, occupies the building of the sup- pressed Convent of Recollets, partly rc-built and newly arranged for its re- ception. It is opened to strangers daily from 10 to 3. Catalogue, 1 fr. 30 c. Entrance, Rue des Fagots. It contains a great many pictures, brought from suppressed convents and churches in the town, where they were seen and described by Sir Joshua Rey- nolds. The works of Rubens and Vandyck give the highest celebrity to this collection. There are no less than 12 or 14 finished works of the former, of the highest excellence, and 6 of Vandyck. Here is appropriately preserved, un- der a glass case, the chair of Rubens, President of the Academy of St. Luke, — an interesting relic. Among the paintings of the older masters are — Quentin Matsys: The Descent from the Cross, with two wings or shutters, formerly in the - cathedral, considered the master-piece of the artist. It displays the science and talent which are evinced in the famous Misers at Windsor, and, in spite of the stiffness of the figures, is worthy of minute attention. “ The middle part h 4152 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. MUSEUM. RUBENS. Sect. II. (2.) is what the Italians call a Pieta, a dead Christ on the knees of the Virgin, accompanied by the usual figures. On the door on one side (3.) is the daugh- ter of Herodias bringing in St. John's head at the banquet; on the other (4.) St. John Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. In the Pieta the Christ appears as if starved to death ; in which manner it was the custom of the painters of that age always to repre- sent a dead Christ; but there are heads in this picture not exceeded by Raf- faelle, and indeed not unlike his man- ner of painting portraits ; hard and minutely finished. The head of Herod, and that of a fat man near Christ, are excellent. The painter’s own portrait is here introduced. In the banquet the daughter is rather beautiful, but too skinny and lean ; she is presenting the head to her mother, who appears to be cutting it with a knife.” Frans Floris (properly de Vriendt), called the Flemish Raphael (but with little real claim to that honour) — (19.) St. Luke at his Easel — The Descent of the Fallen Angels (21.), painted 1524, “ has some good parts, but without masses, and dry. On the thigh of one of the figures he has painted a fly for the admiration of the vulgar; there is a foolish story of this fly being painted by Q,. Matsys, and that it had the honour of deceiving Floris. (20.) The Nativity. “ A large composition? and perhaps the best of his works. It is well composed, drawn, And coloured; the heads are in gene- ral finely painted, more especially St. Joseph and a Woman in the fore- ground.” The principal works of Rubens are (82.) a Pieta, the dead body of Christ laid on a stone table, covered with straw, mourned over by the Virgin. “ This is one of his most careful pic- tures ; the characters are of a higher style of beauty than usual, particularly the Mary Magdalen, weeping, with her hand clenched. The colouring of the Christ and the Virgin is of a most beau- tiful and delicately pearly tint, opposed by the strong high colouring of St. Joseph. I have said in another place that Rubens does not appear to advan- tage but in large works; this picture may be considered as an exception.” — R. (84.) The Virgin holding the In- fant Jesus, “ who stands on a table ; the Infant appears to be attentively looking at something out of the pic- ture : the vacant stare of a child is very naturally represented ; but it is a mean ordinary-looking boy, and by no means a proper representation of the Son of God. The only picture of Christ, in which Rubens succeeds, is when he represents him dead: as a child, or as a man engaged in any act, there is no divinity ; no grace or dig- nity of character appears.” (83.) “St. John; finely coloured ; hut this cha- racter is likewise vulgar.” (85.) A Holy Family. “ Far from being one of Rubens’s best pictures; it is scarce worthy to be considered a pattern for imitation, as its merit consists solely in being well coloured. And yet this is the picture which Rubens painted for the Corporation of St. Luke, and it was hung up in their Hall of Meet- ing.” At least the head of the Virgin is pleasing. (86.) Our Saviour on the Cross ; admirable. (72.) “ The fa- mous Crucifixion of Christ between the two thieves. To give animation to this subject, Rubens has chosen the point of time when an executioner is piercing the side of Christ, while ano- ther with a bar of iron is breaking the limbs of one of the malefactors, who, in his convulsive agony, which his body admirably expresses, has torn one of his feet from the tree to which it was nailed. The expression in the action of this figure is wonderful: the atti- tude of the other is more composed ; and he looks at the dying Christ with a countenance perfectly expressive of his penitence. This figure is likewise admirable. The Virgin, St. John, and Mary the wife of Cleoplias, are stand- ing by with great expression of grief and resignation, whilst the Magdalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and may be supposed to have been kissing his feet, looks at the horseman with the spear, with a countenance of great horror: as the expression carries withBelgium, route 22.—Antwerp, museum, rubens. 153 it no grimace or contortion of the fea- tures, the beauty is not destroyed. This is by far the most beautiful pro- file I ever saw of Rubens, or, I think, of any other painter ; the excellence of its colouring is beyond expression. To say that she may be supposed to have been kissing Christ’s feet, may be thought too refined a criticism; but Rubens certainly intended to convey that idea, as appears by the disposition of her hands; for they are stretched out towards the executioner, and one of them is before and the other behind the Cross ; which gives an idea of her hands having been round it; and it must be remembered that she is gene- rally represented kissing the feet of Christ; it is her place and employ- ment in those subjects. The good Centurion ought not to be forgotten, who is leaning forward, one hand on the other, resting on the mane of his horse, while he looks up to Christ with great earnestness.” “ The genius of Rubens nowhere appears to more advantage than here : it is the most carefully finished picture of all his works. The whole is con- ducted with the most consummate art; the composition is bold and uncom- mon, with circumstances which no other painter had ever before thought of; such as the breaking of the limbs, and the expression of the Magdalen, to which we may add the disposition of the three crosses, which are placed perspectively in an uncommon pic- turesque manner: the nearest bears the thief whose limbs are breaking; the next, the Christ, whose figure is straiter than ordinary, as a contrast to the others; and the furthermost, the penitent thief: this produces a most picturesque effect, but it is what few but such a daring genius as Rubens would have attempted. It is here, and in such compositions, we properly see Rubens, and not in little pictures of Madonnas and Bambinos. “ I have dwelt longer on this picture than any other, as it appears to me to deserve extraordinary attention : it is certainly one of the first pictures in the world, for composition, colouring, and what was not to be expected from Rubens, correctness of drawing." (73.) St. Theresa interceding for the Souls in Purgatory. “ The Christ is a better character, has more beauty and grace than is usual with Rubens ; the outline remarkably undulating, smooth, and flowing. The head of one of the women in purgatory is beautiful, in Rubens’s way; the whole has great harmony of colouring and freedom of pencil: it is in his best manner.” (74.) The Trinity. — Christ lying dead in the arms of God the Father. An un- impressive and irreverent representation of the Deity, under the figure of an old man. The Christ is foreshortened with great skill in drawing.” (77.) The Adoration of the Magi. — “A large and magnificent compo- sition of nearly 20 figures ; in Rubens’s best manner. Such subjects seem to be more peculiarly adapted to Rubens's style and manner ; his excellence, his superiority, is not seen in small com- positions. One of the kings, who holds a cup in his hand, is loaded with drapery ; his head appears too large, and upon the whole he makes but an ungraceful figure : the head of the ox is remarkably well painted.”-— It. (78.) A small sketch, or copy, of the Descent from the Cross, in the cathedral; good, though perhaps not by Rubens himself. (75.) The Virgin instructed by St. Anne. — “ This picture is eminently well coloured, especially the angels; the union of their colour with the sky is wonderfully managed. It is remark- able that one of the angels has Psyche’s wings, which are like those of a butter- fly. This picture is improperly called St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read; who is represented about 14 or 15 years of age, too old to begin to learn to read. The white silk drapery of the Virgin is well painted, but not histo- rical ; the silk is too particularly dis- tinguished, a fault of which Rubens is often guilty, in his female drapery; but by being of the same colour as the sky, it has a soft harmonious effect. The rest of the picture is of a mellow tint.” (76.) The Communion of St. Francis, u 5154 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. MUSEUM. YANDYCK. Sect. II. He is accompanied by many of his order, and “ appears more like a Lazar than a Saipt. Though there are good heads in this picture, yet the principal figure is so disgustful, it does not de- serve, much commendation.” It was the design, however, of the painter to exhibit the Saint in the act of receiving extreme unction immediately before his death, his body emaciated by dis- ease and abstinence; so that, however disagreeable, the picture has at least truth. (79.) Christ showing his Wounds .to St. Thomas. — The expression in the face of. the Saint is perfect. “ The head of the Christ is rather a good character, but the body and arms are heavy: it has been much damaged. On the inside of the 2 folding doors are portraits of the Burgomaster Nicholas Rokkox (80.), and his wife (81.), half lengths : his is a fine portrait; the ear is remarkably well painted, and the anatomy of the forehead is well under- stood. Her portrait has no merit but that of colour.”— R. Vdndyck.— (111.) A Crucifixion; St. Catherine of Sienna (Sir Joshua calls her St. Rosaria), at the feet of Christ, and St. Dominick. “ A sepul- chral lamp, and a flambeau reversed, are here introduced, to show that Christ is dead: two little angels are represented on one side of the cross, and a larger angel below. The 2 little ones look like embryos, and have a bad effect ; and the large angel is not painted with equal success to many other parts of the picture. The shadows are too red, and the locks of the hair are all painted in a hard and heavy manner. For its defects, ample amends are made in the Christ, which is ad- mirably drawn and coloured, and a breadth of light preserved over the body with the greatest skill; at the same time that all the parts are dis- tinctly marked. The form and cha- racter are of a more elegant kind than those we see commonly of Rubens. The idea of St Catherine closing her eyes is finely imagined, and gives an uncommon and delicate expression to the figure. The conduct of the light and shadow of this picture is likewise worth the attention of a painter. To preserve the principal mass of light, which is made by the body of Christ, of ;a beautiful shape, the head is kept in half shadow. The under garment of St. Dominick and the angel make the second mass ; and' the St. Cathe- rine’s head, handkerchief, and arm, the third.” — R. (112.) The dead Christ, with the Virgin supporting the body on her knees, in an attitude of the deepest agony, — Mary Magdalen kneeling. “ This has been one of the most chaste pictures, but the colouring is gone. The expression of the Virgin- is ad- mirable ; it conveys an idea that she is petitioning with an earnest agony of grief. The Virgin’s drapery and the sky, being exactly of the same colour, has a bad effect; the linen is remark- ably well folded.” — R. (113.) Same subject — differently treated. The Virgin behind; — the Magdalen, and St. John. “The Vir- gin’s head is admirable for drawing and expression. The figure of Christ is likewise finely drawn, every part care- fully determined; but the colouring of this figure, and indeed of the picture in general, is a little too cold; there is likewise something defective in one of the hands of the Virgin." — R. (114. 116.) Portraits of Caesar Scaglia, one of the Spanish negotiators at the Congress of Munster; and of Malderus, bishop of Antwerp. Seghers. (118.) — Marriage of the Virgin : “ one of his best pictures.” . Schut. (125.) — Martyrdom of St. George. “ It is well composed and well drawn, and is one of his best pictures; but the saint has too much of that character which painters have fixed for Christ. There is a want of brilliancy from its having too much har- mony ; to produce force and strength, a stronger opposition of colours is re- quired.” — R. Ambrose Franck. (54.) “ The Mar- tyrdom of St. Crispin and Crispinius has some good heads, but -in a dry manner.”—R. Cornelius de Vos. (99.)—St. NorbertBelgium. route'22 .—Antwerp, docks. 15'5 and another Saint receiving the Sa- crament. (97.)—The Family Snoeck presenting ^n offering to the Church of St. Michael. The portraits, are ex- tremely well painted. “ De Vos was particularly excellent in portraits.”— R. Of this there can be no better proof than is afforded by the portrait (98.) of the keeper of the corporation of St. Luke, i.e. the Academy of Antwerp, covered with the medals and other de- corations presented, along with the goblets on the table before him, to that Institution by princes and potentates, all of which have long since disap- peared. It is painted with wonderful force and truth. Titian. (23.)—Pope Alexander VI. introducing to St. Peter the admiral of his fleet against the Turks (a bishop of Paphos), is an interesting picture, in the early style of this master. It once belonged to the collection of King Charles I. Teniers. (233.)—Boors smoking, a brilliant specimen of the artist, pur- chased from the collection of M. Van Scbamps for 14,600 francs. A modern work (247.), the Death of Rubens, by Van Bree, President of the Academy, looks cold, raw, and feeble by the side of the pictures enumerated above, but it lias the good fortune to be highly admired by the citizens. A collection of paintings, chiefly of the older schools of Flanders and Ger- many, has been bequeathed to the city by the burgomaster Van Ertborn. The very dear and slovenly catalogue con- tains no notice of them, though they have been in the Museum for many years, nor are they numbered. The following, which may be found from their descriptions, are most worthy of notice: —Giotto, 2 small pictures, one representing St. Paul, the other a Bi- shop and a Nun. — Fra Angelico, an Emperor humbling himself before a Pope. — Anton di Messina, a Cruci- fixion. — A. Durer, Mater dolorosa.— Holbein, Francis II, when Dauphin; Portrait of Erasmus; of Thos. More. — John van Eyck, Portraits of a Ma- gistrate, and of two Monks; Interior of a Gothic church.—Margaret v. Eyck, Flight into Egypt.—Mending, Annun- ciation of the Virgin; Adoration of the Shepherds; the Virgin in a church, and a Bishop praying: Virgin and Child, white; surrounded by Angels, red.—Jean de Mabuse, Mount Calvary. — Quentin Matsys, Head of Christ, and of the Virgin. The Docks and Basins. — Napoleon laboured unceasingly to make Ant- werp the first sea-port and naval arsenal of the North, to render it the rival of London in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a naval establish- ment. He well knew that the trade of London would to a certain extent be at the mercy of a hostile fleet stationed so near to the mouth of the Thames as Antwerp. The works car- ried into execution by him are said to have cost 2,000,000/. sterling. Thp English all along endeavoured to frustrate so formidable a design ; and the ill-fated expedition of 1809 to Walcheren was designed for the de- struction of these works. Napoleon’s estimate of 4heir importance may be gathered from his own declaration to Las Casas at St. Helena: “ The works hitherto erected were nothing to what I intended. The whole sandy plain which now stretches for miles behind the Tete de Flandres, on the left bank of the river, was to have been enclosed by fortifications and formed into a vast The imperial dockyards and , the arsenal and magazine, were to have been constructed there; and those on the right bank were to have been abandoned to private merchants. Antwerp was to rise a province in it- self : — France without the frontier of the Rhine and Antwerp is nothing.” At the conclusion of the peace of Paris, in 1814, the dockyards were demolished in accordance with one of the articles of that treaty. The two basins were allowed to remain for commercial purposes, and form a chief source of prosperity to the city. In 1843, 1560 vessels entered here. One of the basins is capable of containing 34, the other 14 ships of the line. The entrance to them is difficult, owing to the strength of the current, h 6 city. basins156 ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. CITADEL. Sect. IL which sometimes catches the stern of a vessel and drives it ashore. The docks in winter are of great service in pro- tecting vessels, which, if allowed to re- main in the open river, would be seri- ously injured by the floating ice. They are lined with capacious warehouses; and between the two stands a venerable edifice, originally the factory of the Hanseatic League (Domus Hans® Teutonic®, Sacri Romani Imperii, 1568), called the Oosterlings. This building, a palace in extent, served as a warehouse and residence for the Consul or director of that celebrated association of merchants. At the head of the inner dock rises the handsome range of new Warehouses, 5 stories high, vaulted with stone, in- tended by the King of Holland for a custom-house and bonded warehouse ; the centre is ornamented with a Doric portico, hut is unfinished. The Citadel, remarkable for the siege which it endured in 1832, was erected by a celebrated engineer named Pac- ciotti, for the Duke of Alva, to keep in awe the citizens. It was long re- garded as a model of a fortress, espe- cially after the celebrated General Car- not had strengthened greatly its works, and exhausted all his science and skill as an engineer upon it. It withstood, under his command, a blockade of 4 months in 1814, and was at length yielded up to the British under Gene- ral Graham. The siege of 1832 began Nov. 29, and ended Jan. 23, when the garrison surrendered themselves prisoners of war. The whole French force in Belgium, under the command of Marshal Gerard, may be estimated at 66,400 men ; the troops actually em- ployed in the siege, at 55,000. Such a numerous army and tremendous train of artillery were probably never before brought to the siege of a fortress of so small extent, and were far greater than necessary to reduce such a place ac- cording to the usual practice of war. The troops in the trenches were com- manded by the late Duke of Orleans, and the chief engineer was General Haxo. The Belgians were allowed to fire the first gun from Fort Monte- bello. The Lunette St. Laurent, the part nearest the town, was first attacked, and was taken on the 14th. On the 21st batteries began to breach the Bas- tion de Toledo ; on the 23d the breach was nearly practicable, when General Chasse sent a flag of truce, and the garrison surrendered. The total loss sustained by the town on this occasion has been estimated at nearly 4,000,000 guilders. The number of the Dutch garrison under the veteran Chasse amounted to 4500 men, with 145 pieces of ordnance. The French had 223 guns, — an over- whelming weight of metal. The trenches dug by them measured be- tween 8 and 9 English miles; and no less than 63,000 projectiles were thrown by them ;--so that every wall or building within the fortress was all hut razed to the ground ; even many of the casemates and other parts which had been considered bomb-proof were shat- tered, and the subterraneous galleries used as an hospital threatened to fall and crush the wounded and dying de- posited in them, towards the end of the siege. In looking afterwards at the solid walls rent from top to bottom, and tottering, it might have been sup- posed that nothing but an earthquake could have caused such total desolation. The whole interior space presented a mass of ruins, the very ground being furrowed and ploughed up by the shot and shells ; and, to use the words of an eye-witness, there was not afoot’s space of ground or building that was not shattered or pierced. Of the little Gothic chapel which stood within the citadel, scarcely any part remained whole. In a military point of view, the in- juries done to the outer fortifications, excepting the breach, were not con- siderable. They have all been re- paired, and a new demi-lune has been erected to strengthen the works. Ad- mission to see the citadel may be obtained, by application through a laquais de place at the Hotel de Ville. At present no traces of the siege re- main, except in the absence of theBelgium. route 22.—Antwerp, h. de ville. bourse. 157 houses, barracks, and churcb, which previously filled the interior. The only objects worth notice are, the confined casemate in the Bastion Duque, origiu- ally used as a prison for galley-slaves, in which General Chasse was lodged for a month, deprived of the light of day; and the temporary Hospital, erected by the Dutch, consisting of a bomb-proof roof of earth 8 ft. thick, supported on planks by numerous trunks of trees 6 ft. high, with sloping beams of wood at the sides, instead of walls. There is a large and New Theatre, splendidly fitted up, but open only part of the year. The Hotel de Vxlle (1581), in the Grande Place, is not equal in splen- dour to those of Ghent, Brussels, or Louvain, but is still a handsome edi- fice, of Italian architecture, designed by Corn, de Vriendt (Floris), orna- mented externally with the 5 orders, one over the other. It contains, in the Passport Office, a painting of the Judgment of Solomon, by F. Floris; in the Salle des Mariages, a richly carved chimney-piece, representing the Mar- riage in Cana; and the town Library. The Bourse, built in 1531, is inter- esting, because it was “ there where merchants most did congregate” in the times when the whole world’s trade was carried on in it. Sir Thomas Gresham, who resided at Antwerp (1550) as British Agent, chose it as a model for the Royal Exchange in London. Round the inner court runs a species of cloister,' supported by columns of florid Gothic, not without beauty. The English established a connection with Antwerp at an early period: they had an Exchange of their own here, which still exists, retaining the name Engelsche Bears. Edward III. visited the city in 1338, and a son born to him here by Queen Philippa was named Lionel of Antwerp in consequence. Other antique buildings worthy of notice are, the Maison du Geant, Rue des Nattes, long occupied by the knights of the Teutonic Order; in the same street, a chapel, of the 15th cen- tury, in the house of M. van Cannaert; t he Vieilles Boucheries (1505), near St. Paul’s church, now a corn warehouse. See the old Council Room of the Brewer’s Company, which remains as it was 300 years ago. A chef-d’oeuvre of Jordaens is over the fire-place. There is a fine collection of paintings and antiquities belonging to Mdle, Herry. The Post Office is in the Place Verte, next door to the Hotel d u Parc. Letters may now he posted at the branch offices ( Bourse, &c.), as at Brussels. The house in which Rubens resided and died was situated in the Rue de Rubens, No. 1450, not far from the Palais du Roi. The screen, of rich Italian architecture, with the archway leading into the garden, was designed by Rubens himself. In the garden stands the pavilion where he painted, and the stone table at which he sat. The loyal Duke of Newcastle (the horseman), having quitted England in disgust after the Battle of Marston Moor, resided in this house, which he rented of Rubens’s widow, and enter- tained here Charles II. and other re- fugee cavaliers. The Quai, extending by the side of the Schelde, more than a mile, forms an agreeable promenade. At the en- trance of a street is a Triumphal Arch erected (1624) in honour of Philip IV. of Spain. “ Cul Tagus, et Ganges, Rhenus cui servit et Indus.” On the Porte de Malines is inscribed in large letters S. P. Q. A. (Senatus Populusque Antverpia) — a poor con- ceit, but adopted by all the Belgian cities in their prosperous days. ] The Place de Meir should be seen on market-day (Friday), when it presents a most lively scene, crowded with country-women in the picturesque Fle- mish costume. English Service is performed twice every Sunday at a church in the Rue des Tanneurs, on Sundays and Holi- days, at £ to 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Max Kornicker, a respectable book- seller, has a shop in the Place Verte, No. 732. “ Baillie's Indian Warehouse is worth visiting; the traveller will there see158 ' ROUTE 22 a.-ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT. Sect. IL the best specimens of the black*silk for which Antwerp has always been cele- brated, of which the mantillas are made. It is sold by the weight : the richest quality, about English yard wide, costs about 25 f. the Flemish ell. The colour does not change even on the ap- plication of lemon juice. A British Consul resides at Ant- werp. A Canal, capable of admitting ves- sels of 70 tons, runs from Antwerp through the desolate district of heath and morass, called the Campine, to Herrenthals, a distance of 10 leagues. Railways. (§ 22.)—to Malines, Brus- sels, Liege. Terminus outside the Porte Borgerhout. Omnibuses call at the hotels to convey passengers to and fro (See Rt. 23.) — to Ghent. Termi- nus beyond the Schelde, at the Tete de Flandres. Steamers to Rotterdam daily in sum- mer, in 9 or 10 hours (Rte. 13.) ; to London, Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Vigilantes (cabs) stand in the Place Verte and Place de Meir: fare £ fr. for a drive within the walls; or by hour, l£ and 1 fr. (§ 22 a.) ROUTE 22 a. ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT, AND THE BEL- GIAN PAUPER COLONIES. Diligence daily. The road traverses a wide district of heath, much of which is unreclaimed, but at first it passes many- pretty villas; the waste begins about 8 m. from Ant- werp. A little way short of Westmael is the convent of the monks of La Trappe, who have reclaimed an estate of 400 acres from the barren heath. It is a plain building, somewhat like a work- house. The brothers, nearly 60 in number, observe the strict rule of the order, in preserving silence, passing the night in prayer, &c. The garden is also the burial-ground, and a grave lies always open to receive him who is next to drop. Cleanliness is little attended to, for this order are the humble imita- tors of the ancient Anaohorets, by whom “ every sensation that is offensive to man was thought acceptable to God. The most perfect hermits are1 supposed to have passed many days' without food, many nights without sleep, and many years without speaking.” Westmael. About 7 m. N. E. of this is Wortel, a pauper colony esta- blished by the Dutch government in 1822, and containing 460 inhab. It stands in the midst of a-heath. “It was placed, at its foundation, under the direction of Capt. Van den Bosch, bro- ther to the General, and the plan of operation was similar to that of Fre- derick’s Oord. (See Route 7.) The company at Wortel contracted to main- tain 1000 paupers for 35 florins each, per ann.; other paupers were afterwards taken. Another pauper settlement was undertaken by one person near Bruges, who also agreed with government to maintain 1000 paupers for 35 florins each, per ann. ; but whether from the separation of Belgium from Holland, or whether the pauper colonists, chiefly idle vagrants sent ffom Brussels, being of an inferior class, certain, however, it is, that the pauper settlements in Bel- gium are far behind the colony of Fre- derick’s Oord in prosperity.”— Commerc. Statistics. 4 miles beyond is Merx* plas, a colonie forcee, to. which convicts are sent, and are compelled to work. Turnhout. Inn, Porte d’Or, — clean * small, and cheap. 12 miles S. of this is Gheel, a village of 7500 inhab., a large part of whom are occupied in taking charge of lu- natics sent hither from various parts of Belgium, amounting to 700 or 800. Some are sent hither by their friends ; the paupers are supported by the go- vernment, or their parish. The native peasants here have for generations de- voted themselves to this charge. St. Olympa, the patron saint of lunatics, was an Irishwoman, a daughter of a king of that island; and she is said to have suffered martyrdom here by the hand of her father, from whom she had fled, in order to devote herself to devo- tion and celibacy, in company with a Christian priest named Gerebernus. The church dedicated to her containsBelgium, route 23.:—Antwerp some curious carving in stone and oak, representing the legend of the saint, and a crucifixion ; .a tabernacle containing some of her relics ; a sculptured monu- ment to a Count de Merode and his Countess, 1550. ROUTE 23. ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS.---RAILWAY, BY MALINES. 44 kilometres = 27§ Eng. miles. Trains, 40 min. to Mechlin, and 35 thence to Brussels. Rt. is the village of Berchem, the head-quarters of the French general, Marshal Gerard, during the siege. In the orchards and gardens on the right the French commenced the trenches by which the approach to the citadel was effected. Many pretty country seats and gar- dens of the merchants and citizens of Antwerp lie near the railroad. Vieux Dieu (Oude God) Stat. Contich Stat. ; the village (3500 in- hab.) lies to the W. ; not far from it appears the Gothic castle of Ter Elst. Duffel Stat. ; the town is on the 1. At Lierre (13,500 inbab.), 1$ m. dis- tant, the Ch. St. Gommaire contains an exquisite Flamboyant rood-loft, re- cently restored in a manner creditable to the town. Beyond Duffel the river Nethe is crossed. Rt. at the entrance of the village of Waelhem, about 2 m. on this side of Mechlin, the remains of a low rampart or fortification may be; seen on either side of the road. This is' a relic of the struggle between the Dutch and Bel- gians, 1830-31. The narrow wooden bridge was the scene of a sharp skir- mish, in which the insurgent Belgians succeeded in driving the retreating army of the Dutch from a strong po- sition, and compelled them to retire under the walls of Antwerp. Mechlin Station, where the trains stop for a few minutes. It is 5 minutes’ walk from the town, which is entered by the picturesque Porte d’Egmont. This station is the point of departure from which 4 lines of railway ramify through Belgium. These are called in the time- TO BRUSSELS. MECHLIN. 159 tables, IAgne du Nord, which leads to Antwerp ; Ligne de FEst, to Louvain, Liege, Verviers ; LAgne de F Ouest, to Ghent, Bruges, and Ostend ; Ligne du Midi, to Brussels, and thence to Mons, Charleroi, and Namur, or to Lille. There is almost invariably great con- fusion, and frequently delay, here, from the meetings of the trains, Travellers should take care they are not put into the wrong train, and that they are not run over in. crossing the numerous lines of rails. Sheds, at least, ought to be constructed to protect passengers and their baggage from the rain. Mechlin (Fr. Malines; Flem. Meche- len ; Germ. Mecheln). Inns: H. St. Jacques ; — La Grue, in the Grande Place. Malines is situated on the Dyle, and has 24,600 inhab. It is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities, from the quaint architecture of its houses, and the multitude of signs over the shops, but presents now a deserted aspect. The railway was planned to traverse the midst of the city, but the magistrates (gaudet Mechlinia stultis, § 25.), like the wise men of Northamp- ton, Oxford, and Maidstone, stoutly resisted this, and with success. Now few of the millions who pass this city annually, enter it, and still fewer stop here. Malines is the see of the Belgian Primate. The Gothic Cathedral, dedicated to St. Rumbold (the choir finished in 1451, the nave in 1437), deserves to be visited. The interior is large and lofty. It has a carved pulpit, representing the Con- version of St. Paul, with the fallen saint and his fallen horse below; and an altar* piece in the N. transept, by Vandyck, of the Crucifixion, painted after his return from Italy. “ This, perhaps, is the most capital of all his works, in respect to the variety and extensiveness of the design, and the judicious disposition of the whole. In the efforts which the thieves make to disengage themselves from the cross, he has successfully en- countered the difficulty of the art, and the expression of grief and resignation in the Virgin is admirable. Upon the whole, this may be considered as one of the first pictures in the world, and gives160 ROUTE 23.—MECHLIN. CATHEDRAE. Sect. II. the highest idea of Vandyck’s powers : it shows that he had truly a genius for history painting, if it had not been taken off by portraits. The colouring of this picture is certainly not of the brightest kind, but it seems as well to correspond with the subject as if it had the fresh- ness of Rubens. St. John is a mean character, the only weak part in the picture, unless we add another circum- stance, though but a minute one—the hair of the Magdalen, at the foot of Christ, is too silky, and indeed looks more like silk drapery than hair.” — R. The picture was carefully cleaned in 1848, and seems to have been little re- touched. In the side chapels, around the choir, are 25 paintings by Michel Coexie, or at least of his time, repre- senting events in St. Rumbold’s life, very curious. The organ possesses a rich and full body of tone. The massive, though unfinished Tower, begun 1452, is 348 English feet high, that is, only 18 feet lower than the cross of St. Paul’s : had the steeple been completed, it would have been 640 ft. high. A story is told of an alarm being given in the town that the tower was on fire; but, when fire engines were brought, and the inhabit- ants had flocked together in haste to put out the conflagration, it was found to be nothing more than the light of the moon shining through the Gothic open work. This, which was probably only a malicious joke, has given rise to a sort of proverb, not at all relished by those to whom it is applied,—“ The wise men of Malines tried to extinguish the moon.” This church was built with • the mo- ney obtained by the sale of indulgences to pilgrims, who flocked hither in 1452, to celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the Pope throughout Christendom, on the occasion of the war against the Turks. In the Place in which the cathedral stands, are several ancient buildings, Leg Halles, with a turret, date 1340, and the Town Hall, called Beyard, a structure of the 15th century. In the Church of St. John is a very famous altar-piece with wings by Ru- bens, composed of the following pieces: — The Adoration of the Magi. “ A large and rich composition ; but there is a want of force in the Virgin and Child: they appear of a more shadowy substance than the rest of the picture, which has his usual solidity and richness. One of the Kings holds an incense vase. This circumstance is mentioned to dis- tinguish this picture from the many others which Rubens has painted of this subject. On the inside of one of the doors is the Decollation of St. John the Baptist; on the other, St. John the Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. The figures which are putting him into the caldron want energy, which is not a common defect of Rubens : the cha- racter of the head of the Saint is vulgar; which, indeed, in him is not an un- common defect. The whole is of a mellow and rich colouring. On the outside of those doors are John bap- tizing Christ, and St. John the Evan- gelist in the Isle of Patinos writing the Apocalypse: both of these are in his best manner ; the Eagle of St. John is remarkably well painted ; the Baptism is much damaged.”—R. Sir Joshua mentions 8 small paintings in panels under these, all by Rubens, but showing little merit, except facility of hand. — The subjects were the Cru- cifixion, the Nativity, and Resurrec- tion: the first alone remains; the others, it is believed, were not returned with the rest of the pictures from France.— “ Rubens was paid for these 8 pictures 1800 florins of Brabant, about 180/. English, as appears by the receipt in his own handwriting, still preserved in the sacristy; and the whole was begun and finished in 18 days.”—R. The elegant Gothic Ch. of Ndtre Dame, passed on the 1. hand in coming from the Railway, contains behind the high altar the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, by Rubens, painted for the guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his most masterly works; his excel- lence of colour, and rivalry of the Ve- netian school, are nowhere more con- spicuous than in this picture ; it ought not to be passed over unseen. On the wings or shutters are painted, — The Tribute Money taken from the mouthBelgium. route 23.—hanswyk. vilvorde. 161 of the fish, — Tobias and the Fish,— Peter, Andrew, James, and John, the 4 disciples who were fishermen. Be- neath these were three small pictures which also disappeared with the French. Rubens painted these 8 subjects in 10 days for 1000 florins. There is another Church of N6tre Dame here, called De Hanswyk; it owed its existence to a statue of the Virgin which floated up the river a- gainst the stream by miraculous agency, till it stopped and remained fixed at the spot where the church, which was built in consequence, now stands 1 This was not the only miracle performed by the image ; for it obtained such a high re- putation for curing all kinds of mala- dies, that the weak and the devout made pilgrimages to it from far and near. The image exists no longer, having been destroyed by sacrilegious hands when the army of the Confede- rates, under Oliver Temple, in 1580, took and pillaged the city. (Dead saints, images, and pictures were for- merly much given to make similar voyages by themselves. See curious in* stances at Valencia, Santiago, and Bur- gos. Span. Hdbk. pp. 449. 662. 901., 1st ed.; and at Leghorn, Hdbk. for N. Italy, 471, ed. 1847.) Mechlin was the seat of the Imperial Chamber, founded by Charles the Bold, 1473, which continued to maintain the reputation of a most upright court of justice for many centuries. Charles V. and Philip II. presided over it in person. Mechlin is the birth-place of Ernest Count Mansfeld, the celebrated leader in the 30 years’ war; of Michel Coexie (1497), the scholar and imitator of Ra- phael ; and of Dodonaeus the botanist (d. 1585). The manufacture of Lace, which re- ceives its name from Mechlin, is much fallen off; only 8 houses are now em- ployed in making it. It is a coarser and stouter variety than that made at Brussels. A group of 3 very picturesque old houses in the Kraam Straat are a fit subject for the pencil. “ The Porte d’Egmont, and the pile of buildings called B6guinage, near the entrance of Mechlin, are curious relics of anti- quity.”— P. H. The Railroad to Brussels, 20 kilo- metres, on leaving Mechlin, crosses the canal leading to Louvain. The Chateau of Rubens at Steen, of which place he was seigneur, still exists, though fast falling to decay, near the village of Elewyt, a little on the E. of the road between Malines and Vilvorde: it is surrounded by a moat. Teniers's house at Perck, 3 m. from Vilvorde and 2 m. from Steen, is called, from its 3 towers (none of which remain), Den Drey Toren, and is marked by the original gabled gate-house and the moat which surrounded it. A spread eagle on the folding doors is said to be the work of the artist himself. In the village church is his wife’s tomb, and a paint- ing by him. 10 Vilvorde, Stat. (2700 inhab.), a dull town, has an interesting Ch. con- taining fine carvings in wood. Tindal, translator of the Bible into English, suffered martyrdom here as a heretic, in 1536, being strangled at the stake, and then burnt, outside the town, near the Penitentiary, which stands on the site of his prison. On quitting Vilvorde many piretty country seats are seen on the banks of the broad canal which goes to Brussels, and outside of Vilvorde the vast Peni- tentiary mentioned above. On approaching Brussels, the Pa- lace of Laeken, belonging to the King of Belgium, appears at some distance on the right. It is handsomely fur- nished, but there is nothing to dis- tinguish it from other kingly residences, of which a traveller may see enough in a continental journey. It was origin- ally built for the Austrian governor of the Netherlands before the French re- volution, and was afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, who here planned his disastrous Russian campaign. The gardens and park are very beautiful. It is 3 m. from Brussels. Madame Malibran is buried in the Cemetery of Laeken : a statue of her in marble, by Geefs, has been set up as a monument by her husband, who caused her body to be removed hither from Manchester.162 ROUTE 23.—BRUSSELS., PARK. Sect. II. The Allee Verte, a long avenue of trees, extends nearly all the way to Brussels from Laeken. The Railroad runs on the opposite side of the canal, and terminates at the Forte de Cologne, near the botanic garden, opposite the Rue Neuve. 10 Brussels (French, Bruxelles; Flem., Brussel; German, Brussel).— Inns: H. de Bellevue ; charges — 1 wax candle, 1 fr.; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; breakfast; do.; table-d’hote, 3 fr.; bot- tle of ordinary wine, 3 fr. 50 c.; dinner in private, 4 to 5 fr. ; lodging, 2 fr. — H. de Flandre; very good. — H. de l’Europe; good. These 3 in the Place Royale. — H. de France, Rue Royale, corner of the Mont du Parc.; highly recommended; comfortable and mo- derate.—;H. Royal, new, in the lower town.—H. de la Regence, near the Place Royale; good, quiet, and mo- derate. — H. Britan nique. — H. de l’Univers, Longue Rue Neuve. — H. des Princes, Place de la Monnaie. — H. de Saxe, H. des Quatre Saisons. The expense of living at one of the principal hotels ought not to exceed 12 fr. a day, including a bottle of Bor- deaux wine. 2d class Inn: H. de Hollande ; where the expenses ought not to exceed 8 francs daily. H6tel Garni. Hotel Kreuznach in the Rue Royale. There are also several boarding-; houses, among which may be mentioned one in the new Quartier Louise, lead- ing from the Boulevard de Waterloo, kept by Mrs. Haydon. Brussels, the capital of the kingdom of Belgium, and seat of .government and of the Chambers, on the small river Senne, has 106,000 Inhab., or, including the suburbs, 145,000. It is divided into the upper and lower towns, the former being the newest as well as the most fashionable and healthy quarter, and built on a height. It con- tains the King’s palace, the Chambers, and the chief hotels. The foreign am- bassadors reside in the Rue Ducale : the Rue de la Loi is occupied by pub- lic offices. The lower town abounds in fine old picturesque buildings, the residences in former times of the Bra- bant noblesse, now occupied by mer- chants and tradespeople : the Grande Place, with its splendid Hotel de Ville, in this quarter, is beyond doubt un- rivalled as a specimen of Gothic splen- dour in civic edifices. The Quartier Leopold, containing some fine houses, is becoming the favourite paft of the town. French is the prevailing lan- guage, though many among the lower orders, and the majority of the popula- tion in the lower town, speak only Flemish. Those who are acquainted with the French metropolis will find here many similarities, which give Brussels the character of Paris on a smhll scale. Besides the language, which is the same, and a certain affectation of French manners and habits perceptible in so- ciety here, the town of Brussels has its little opera, in imitation of; that of Paris ; its cafes, 5n the manner of those of the Palais Royal; a palaca-garden, which pretends to a similarity with that of the Tuileries; and miniature Boulevards around the town. It is a brummagem Paris. Brussels abounds in English in search of cheapness, which thjeir pre- sence has banished. From the long sojourn of so many of our countrymen, the English language is very generally spoken, from the landlord of the hotels down to the shoeblack in the streets. The Park is a considerable inclosure in the higher town, forming the interior of a large square, laid out with avenues of trees, shady walks, arid verdant turf, and ornamented with statues ; serving as a promenade to the inhabitants, who are indebted to the Empress Maria Theresa for it. The most fashionable evening walk is on the left of the en- trance to the Place Royale. The park was the scene of the principal combat during the revolution of 1830. It was occupied by the Dutch troops, and the trees still bear marks of the pounds they then received. The H&tel de Bellevue, standing between the Place Royale, where the Belgian insurgents were posted, and the Park, was the centre of action, and was actually rid-Published/ by John Murray Albemarle Street London 1849. J.&C.Walker Sculp.Belgium. died with shot. To gratify the curio- sity of travellers, the landlord retained some of the cannon-balls in situ as long as the Belgic revolution remained a subject of curiosity. Among the buildings which form the sides of this square, and which im- mediately overlook the Park, are — The King's Palace; it has nothing very remarkable without or within. It is furnished in a costly manner, as palaces usually are; and those to whom suites of splendid apartments, and a few pictures of no great value, by David, &c., are an attraction, may ob- tain permission to see the interior when the royal family is absent, though with difficulty. Near to it is the Palace of the Prince of Orange (the late King of Holland), erected at the cost of the city of Brus- sels, and presented to the Prince. The building was finished and inhabited only one year before the revolution of 1830 broke out. The fine collections of pictures and furniture have been re- moved to the Hague. The Chambers of Representatives, or Palais de la Nation, built by Maria Theresa for the meetings of the Council of Brabant, are situated Rue de 1a Loi, at the end of the Park, facing the Royal Palace; within they resemble the French chambers at Paris previous to 1848. There is nothing to particularise in them, except perhaps three pictures by modern artists — the commencement of the Belgian Trois Jours of 1830, by Wappers, the Battle of Woeringen, by De Keyzer, and the Battle of Waterloo. Ladies, as well as gentlemen, are admit- ted during the debates. The entrance is behind, in the Rue de l’Orangerie. In the Place Royale stands a spirited bronze equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, by M. Simonis, erected in 1848. It was cast at Paris by Soyer. The Museum, in the Old Palace, for- merly the residence of the Spanish and Austrian Governors of the Low Coun- tries, and before that of the Dukes of Brabant, and now called Palais des Beaux Arts, contains — 1st. The Pic- ture Gallery. Here are 7 works re- puted to be by Rubens, mostly inferior | ROUTE 23.—BRUSSELS. MUSEUM. 163 to those at Antwerp, and probably- executed by his pupils. They are, however, not deficient in many traces of his transcendent power. Among them are, The Martyrdom of St. Lie- ven—a Coronation of the Virgin—■ Adoration of the Magi—Christ falling under the Cross — a Dead Christ at the Sepulchre — Christ armed with Thunder to destroy the World; an extravagant and unchristian allegory. “ Christ, with Jupiter’s thunder and lightning in his hand, denouncing ven- geance on a wicked world, represented by a globe lying on the ground with the serpent twined round it: this globe St. Francis appears to be covering and defending with his mantle. The Virgin is holding Christ’s hand, and showing her breasts; implying, as I suppose, the right she has to intercede and have an interest with him whom she suckled. The Christ, which is ill drawn, in an attitude affectedly contrasted, is the most ungracious figure that can be imagined : the best part of the picture is the head of St. Francis.”—R. The Assumption of the Virgin:—“The principal figure, the Virgin, is the worst in the composition, both in regard to the character of the countenance, the drawing of the figure, and even its colour; for she is dressed, not in what is the fixed dress of the Virgin, blue and red, but entirely in a colour be- tween blue and red, heightened with white; and this Coming on a white glory gives a deadness to that part of the picture. The Apostles, and the two women, are in Rubens’s best man- ner. The angels are beautifully co- loured, and unite with the sky in per- fect harmony; the masses of light and shade are conducted with the greatest judgment ; and, excepting the upper part, where the Virgin is, it is one of Rubens’s rich pictures.”—R. De Crayer, St. Peter Fishing; — P. Neefs, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral. Ger. Dou, a small candle-light piece, very capital. The number of pictures here exceeds 300: the bad preponderate much over the good; and the whole collection is far inferior to that at Antwerp; but it is full of instruction,164 ROUTE 23.—BRUSSELS. MUSEUM. H. DE VILLE. ,SeCt. II. and contains the works of some early Flemish masters that can nowhere be found in equal excellence. Bernard van Orley — The body of Christ, mourned over by his friends and by the women, one of his best works. “ It has great nature, but is hard, as the whole pic- ture is in a dry, Gothic style.” — Sir J. R. In the fatal bombard- ment of Brussels on the 20th of Au- gust, 1695, by the French under Mar- shal Villeroy, there were destroyed, in less than 48 hours, several thousand houses and 14»churches, the latter adorned with some of the finest works of Rubens, Vandyck, and other emi- nent painters, which thus perished in the flames, or were buried in the ruins. In the anterooms are specimens of the modem Belgian School of Art; very well worthy, of attention, especially the works of IVappers; Gallait; de Keyzer ; Verboekhoven — The Sheepcot in a Storm; Le Poiteven; de Caisne, &c. The collections of painting and na- tural history are open to the public Sun., Wed. ?, and Thurs. A stranger will gain admittance at all times by feeing the porter. There is also a cu- rious collection of models of engines, sluice-gates, machinery, &c. 2d. The Burgundian Library, under the same roof as the gallery, contains 18,000 MSS., &c., of great interest and value. They were collected at a very early period by the Dukes of Bur- gundy ; many are richly adorned with precious miniature paintings of the greatest beauty by the scholars of Van Eyck. The Chronicle of Hainault, consisting of 17 folio volumes, illumi- nated, deserves particular notice; also the Missal of Matthias CoTvinus, king of Hungary, and the Psalter of Louis de Male. This collection has been twice carried off to Paris by the French as the spoils of war. This library has been united to the Royal library, which was formed in 1837,' by the union of the libraries of the state and of the town of Brussels with that of Van Hultem, which was purchased for 315,000 francs. It contains 200,000 vols. of printed books. The library is open every day except Sun. and Wed., from 10 to 2 in summer, and from 10 to 4 in winter. 3d. The Museum of Natural History, on the lower story of the same build- ing, is probably the most complete in Belgium. The zoological department includes many specimens brought from the Dutch East Indian colonies. That of mineralogy is enriched by an in- teresting collection of Russian minerals presented by the late Queen of Holland. The specimens of chromate of lead and malachite are fine. There is a very complete series of the volcanic pro- ducts of Vesuvius, and of the fossils of Maestricht. This building serves likewise as a College, and public lectures, instituted by government, are given daily at par- ticular seasons, in various branches of science, literature, and art, to which all persons are admitted gratis. In the courtyard is preserved the inscrip- tion from the monument of Lipsius. The Palais d’Industrie, opposite the Ch. of St. Jacques Caudenberg, 1., in the corner, is appropriated to an exhi- bition, every four years, of the products of national arts and manufactures. It contains an incipient collection of an- tiques, some old armour, the cradle of Charles V., a font from Tirlcmont (date, 1149), &c. The Hdtel de Ville, in the Grande Place, is by far the most striking build- ing in Brussels, and one of the grandest of those municipal palaces which are found in almost every city of the Ne- therlands, and nowhere else of the same splendour. It was finished in 1442. The beautiful tower, of Gothic open work, 364 ft. high, was built by Jan van Ruysbrock. It is remarkable for not being placed in the centre of the building, which, after all, is no defect in this style of architecture. The gilt copper figure of St. Michael on the top, which serves as a weathercock, and turns with the wind, is 17 ft. high. The abdication of Charles V. (1555) took place in the Old Ducal Palace, which stood on the site of the Place Royale, burnt down in 1733, and not, as is often said, in this town-hall. That event is depicted on tapestries165 Belgium, route 23.—Brussels, ch. of st. gudule. preserved here; but as the interior suffered sad spoliation and wanton de- struction of its carvings and ornamen- tal work during the 1st French revolu- tion, it contains little worth notice. In the market-place, in front of it, the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded, by order of the cruel Alva, in 1568. They passed the night pre- ceding their deaths in the old Gothic house opposite, called the Broodhuis, or Matson du Roi, which once served the purpose of Hotel de Ville. Alva, it is said, looked on while the execu- tion was going forward, from a window in the building. The Collegiate Church of St. Gudule, the finest in Brussels, is a handsome Gothic edifice, in which chapters of the order of the Golden Fleece were held by Philip the Good in 1435, and by Charles V. in 1516. The existing choir and transepts were finished in 1278, the nave in the 14th century, and the-towers in 1518. The outside was well restored in 1843. The proper dedication is to the “ Saints Michel et Gudule; ” but, as in many similar cases, the female saint has eclipsed the archangel. It is remarkable for the beautiful painted glass in its windows, especially those by Roger van der Weyde in the great N. chapel of the St. Sacrement des Miracles, including portraits of sovereigns and princes of the 16th cent., by whom they were presented: two are dated 1546, and two 1547. The N. and S. windows of the transept are of 1557, the W. window 1528. Within the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 to John II., Duke of Brabant (1512), and Mar- garet his wife, Duchess of York; and one of the Archduke John (1596). A tablet of white marble covers the entrance to the vault of the royal fa- mily of Austria. In the chapel of the Virgin, S. aisle, is a statue, by Geefs, of a Count Merode, a hero or martyr of the revolution of 1830. He is re- presented in marble, wearing a blouse, the costume in which he was shot, wounded, and holding a pistol! The statues of the 12 Apostles placed against the pillars in the nave are partly by Duquesnoy. The carved pulpit, gene- rally considered the master-piece of Verbruggen, represents Adam and Eve driven out of Paradise, surmounted by the Virgin holding the infant Sa- viour, whom she is assisting to thrust the extremity of the cross into the ser- pent’s head ; it was originally in the church of the Jesuits at Louvain. In the chapel, called St. Sacrement- des Miracles, are deposited the Miracu- lous Wafers, said to have been stolen from the altar at the instigation of a sacrilegious Jew, and, with the view of showing his hatred and contempt for the religion of Christ, subjected to in- sults by himself and his brethren assem-. bled in their synagogue. To add to the sacrilege, the day chosen for com- mitting this outrage was Good Friday. When at length the scoffers proceeded so far as to stick their knives into the wafers, jets of blood burst forth from the wounds, and by a second miracle they were struck senseless. The sup- posed perpetrators of the crime were denounced by one of the pretended spectators, who had been converted to Christianity, and the accused were seized and put to death by the most cruel torments, having their flesh torn off by hot irons before they were burnt at the stake. This took place about the end of the 14th cent., and it proves that the Jews at Brussels must then have been so numerous and wealthy as to have been worth plundering. The miracle is one of many similar tales invented by de- signing men, who took advantage of the superstition of the age, and the general hatred in which the race of Israel was held, to incite the populace to deeds of cruelty, which enabled them to enrich themselves with the confiscated goods of the unbelievers. This triumph of the faith, as it is called, is still celebrated once a year, on the Sunday following the 15th of July, in the enlightened city of Brussels, by a solemn procession of the clergy, and by the exhibition of the identical miraculous wafers. A little book containing an authorised version of the story may be purchased at the church I A similar miracle occurred at Gorcum, the unbelievers there being166 route 23.—Brussels, palais d’aremberg. Sect. II. Zwinglians. The wafer which then bled, called la Santa Forma, is now at the Escorial. Span. Hdbk. 468. 2d ed. Hdbk.of Span. Painters, 20S. See also the El Santo Misterio at Daroca. Span. Hdbk. 520. The Church of N6tre Dame de la Cha- peUe, in the Rue Haute, which may be called a fine church in* a city where there is little ecclesiastical architecture, contains a picture by Crayer, Jesus ap- pearing to Mary Magdalen; a singu- lar pulpit, representing Elijah com- forted by an Angel, under a canopy of Palm Trees; the tomb of the painter Breughel, and a small paltry tablet to .his memory ; besides which, on the left of the high altar, there is the more pre- tending monument of thefamilySpinola. In the Palais de Justice, formerly a monastery of the Jesuits, a poor build- ing in the Square du Grand Sablon, are 2 fine works of the modern Belgian School, the Abdication of Charles V., by Gallait, and the Signing of the Compromise or Request, by Biefve. The Prison des Petits Carmes, near the square called Petit Sablon, stands on the site of the Hotel de Cuylem- bourg, memorable as the place of meet- ing of the Protestant Confederates in the reign of Philip II., who were the means of delivering the United Pro- vinces from the yoke of Spain. Gn this spot (1566) they drew up the famous petition to the Vice-queen Margaret of Parma, called the “ Request.” At the moment when it was presented, one of the courtiers was overheard to whisper in the ear of Margaret, who was rather abashed by the sudden appearance of the petitioners, “ not to be annoyed by such a parcel of beggars-” (Gueux). The leaders of the confederates hearing of this, and feeling that an epithet given to those who 'came forward in defence of their country and liberties, though meant as a reproach, became by its ap- plication a title of honour, determined at once to adopt it as their norm de guerre. The same evening, when they met at supper, some of them appeared on the balcony of the Hotel, with a beggar's wallet at their back and a porringer (jdtte') in their hand, out of which they drank success to the Gueux 1 The spark thus lighted was soon blown into a flame, and this is commonly consi- dered one of the leading events of that revolution which, in a few years, dis- possessed the House of Spain of the dominion of the Low Countries. Alva wreaked his blind vengeance on the building, where the meetings were held, by levelling it with the ground. The Palais cTAremberg, no. 17. P. du Petit Sablon, furnished with great splen- dour, contains a small but choice gal- lery chiefly of Dutch and Flemish masters, among them an Interior by de Hooghe ; Tobias’. Cure, Rembrandt; Marriage in Cana, Jan Steen; and a beautiful Paul Potter; a choice collec- tion of Etruscan antiquities, and much fine old furniture. In the library is an antique head, asserted to be that of the famous Laocoon, or at least of a statue similar to that in the Vatican. The Palace is shown in the absence of the family, and is well worth seeing ; so are the Gardens. The Picture Gallery of the Prince de Ligne is not readily shown. The Studios of Geefs, the sculptor, Rue du Palais, and of Verboekhoven, the painter, Rue Royale Exterieure, may be visited with pleasure. The Porte de Hal, a large and Gothic gateway now standing alone, the only relic of the old fortifications, erected 1381, was Alva’s Bastille during his bloody persecutions of the Protestants. It is now used as a Museum for a very interesting and well-arranged collection of ancient armour. The University, Rue des Sols, was originally Cardinal Grandvella’s Palace. The square called Place des Martyrs (Martelaers Plaets) contains a large monument erected over the grave of more than 300 of the “ braves Beiges ” who were killed in the last revolution, Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble statue of Liberty on a pedestal with a kneeling Genius in each of the 4 cor- ners, by Geefs. Below and around it runs a sort of subterranean gallery or catacomb, in which the slain are in- terred. Brussels is,the birthplace of Vesalius, the anatomist, to whom a statue inBelgium, route 23.—Brussels, lace manufacture. 167 bronze has been erected in the Place des Barricades; of Van Helmont, the chemist; of Margaret of Austria, Gouvernante of the Liow Countries, daughter of the Empr. Maximilian; of the painters Bernard van Orley, Philip de Champagne, and Van der Meulen; of the sculptor Du Quesnoy. The Theatre, in the Place de la Monnaie, is generally well conducted ; the performances are good, and the edifice itself handsome. It is open every day: admission to 1 st and 2d loges, 5 fr. and 4 fr. ; gallery and par- quet, 3 fr. 50 c.; parterre, 1 fr. 60 c. Theatre des Nouveautes, on the Bou- levard de Laeken ; Theatre du Vaude- ville, Rue de l’Eveque. There is also a smaller Theatre in the Park, in which vaudevilles are performed Saturday and Sunday. Cafes. — The best are, Cafe Suisse; des Mille Colonnes, in the Place de la Monnaie ; and Des trois Suisses. Restaurants: Du Bos, Rue Fosse aux Loups; reputed good, but dear. Dubos, Rue de la Putterie (No. 23.) ; a very good dinner, a la carte, 2 fr. and 3 fr. a head. Les Freres Provenceaux, Longue Rue de l’Ecuier, is much celebrated. The best ice is to be had at Velloni’s, in the Park, near the Theatre. Fiacres.—The fare is 2 fr. 1st hour ; 1^ fr. after; or fr. for any distance within the town. Cabs ( Vigilantes) cost fr. the 1st hour, and 1 fr. for a drive. A valet de place expects 4 fr. per diem here and elsewhere in Belgium. Post Office in the Rue de l’Eveque. Poste restante open 7 a. m. to 8 p. m. Letters unpaid may now be posted for England at any of the branch offices before 5 p. m. Passports are vise at the Ministere de Justice, Rue de la Regence, close to the Place Royale. The English Mi- nister lives outside the Porte Leopold, and the Prussian Embassy is in the Place des Barricades. The signatures of both must be obtained in order to enter Rhenish Prussia. Railroads.—Northern line ( Antwerp, Ostend, Liege). Terminus, Station du Nord at the end of Longue Rue Neuve. ----- Southern line (Namur, Mons, Valenciennes). . Terminus, Station du Midi near the Church of N. D. de Bon Secours. Omnibuses run from different parts of the town, calling at the chief hotels to convey passengers to the railroads. Diligences---Daily to Louvain. Booksellers. — Muquardt, 11. Place Royale, has a reading room and an English circulating library. N.B.— Belgian and French editions of English books are now absolutely prohibited at the British Custom-house. The best shops are for the most part in the Rue Montagne de la Cour and Rue de la Madeleine. The Gallerie St. Hubert, extending from the Marche aux Herbes to the Rue de l’Eveque, is an extremely hand- some arcade. The most remarkable manufacture at Brussels is that of Lace, celebrated all over the world. The peculiarity, in addition to the fineness, which distin- guishes it, is, that the patterns are worked separately with the most mi- croscopic minuteness, and are after- wards sewed on. At the house of Du- cepetiaux et Fils, No. 52, Rue Neuve de la Montagne, the whole process may be seen to advantage, and the visitor is not necessarily expected to make a pur- chase, though it is usual to leave a do- nation for the work-women. The flax employed in the manufacture grows near Hal; the best comes from a place called Rebecque. The finest sort costs from 300 fr. to 400 fr. per lb., and is worth its weight in gold; every thing depends on the tenuity of. the fibre. ^ yard (English) of the finest and most expensive kind of lace costs 150fr.; but a very good sort is sold for 50 fr., and the prices of some are as low as lOfr. per aune. It is said that the persons who spin the thread for Brussels lace; and also for the French cambric (ba- tiste) of St. Quentin, are obliged to work in confined dark rooms, into which light is admitted only partially by a small aperture ; and that by being thus compelled to pay more constant and minute attention to their work, they discipline the eye, and attain the faculty168 R. 23.—PROMENADES. R. 24.—BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. Sect. II. of spinning the flax of that web-like fineness which constitutes the excellence of these two fabrics. Very good carriages are made here, about two-thirds cheaper, though not equal in excellence to the English. M. Simon, in the Rue Royale, near the Gate of Schaerbeck, is recom- mended as the most eminent coach- maker. Money Changer. — Messel, 70. Rue de la Madeleine. Yates, Mont, de la Cour. There are two chapels in which the English church service is performed every Sunday, one close to the Mu- seum; the other on the Boulevard de l’Observatoire. Service at the Chapel Royal, Rue du Musee, at 9 a. M. and 2j p. m. At the Chape] on the Boulevard de l’Observatoire, 1 r. m. and 3 r. m. The shortest way to England. — London may be reached via Ostend and Dover in 16 hours. The steamers now go daily from Ostend to Dover. See p. 125. To reach Calais by rail- way takes 8 or 10 hours. The principal Promenades, besides the Park, mentioned before, are the Boulevards, extending nearly round the town; the most fashionable and fre- quented being those de Waterloo, du Regent, and de l’Observatoire, between the gates of Schaerbeck and d’ Anvers ; —an entirely New Quarter (Quartier Leopold) has sprung up between the Portes de Louvain and de Namur; — the New Botanic Garden, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, which is very prettily laid out, and isopen to the public Tues- day, Thursday, Saturday, from 10 to 3; —and the AU.ee Verte, a treble avenue of trees by the side of the canal leading to Mechlin. These fine avenues of limes were spared by Marshal Saxe, at the entreaty of the ladies of Brussels, when he besieged the town. Excursions may be made from Brussels to— Laehen (p. 161.). A fiacre costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided it be not detained more than 2 hours. Laeken is a railway station. From the fields near Laeken is the best view of Brus- sels. The Excursion to Waterloo (see Rte. 24.) will occupy about 8 hours, allow- ing 3 hours for the horses to rest and for surveying the field. A carriage with two horses (voiture de remise), to go and return, ought not to cost more than 20 fr., driver and turnpikes in- cluded. A vigilante (cab) may be hired for 10 fr. It is necessary to stipulate that you shall be taken to Mont St. Jean and Hougoumont; or, what is better, let the agreement be to convey you to any part of the field you please, otherwise you will be set down at the village of Waterloo, 2 m. short of the most interesting points in the field of battle, or be compelled to pay 2 or 3 fr. extra for going farther. The hire of a saddle horse ought not to exceed 8 or 10 fr. The field of Waterloo is 12J m. from Brussels, a drive of about 2 hours. The high road to Namur and Liege (Rte. 24.) runs through Waterloo, and across the field of battle. The Nivelles diligence traverses it daily to and fro; —those to Namur are given up. ROUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND NAMUR. ---DESCENT OF THE MEUSE, NAMUR TO MAESTRICHT. To Liege 16 Posts = 78 Eng. m. The quickest way to Liege is by the Railroad through Louvain (Rte. 26.), and to Namur by the railroad through Hal, R. 28.; but the following road possesses the recommendation of pass- ing by Waterloo and the beautiful valley of the Meuse. Diligence to Nivelles daily. Near the village of Ixelles, a good view of Brussels and of the country far and wide is obtained, on which account it is a crowded place of resort with the citizens upon Sundays. About 2 m. from Brussels the road enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne, now much curtailed and partly con- verted into cornfields. Byron, by a poetical licence, has identified it with the ancient Forest of Ardennes. The march of the British troops through it,ROUTE 24.--WATERLOO. 169 Belgium. on their way to the battle, is described by him in these beautiful lines : — Grieving, if aught inanimate e’er g Over the unreturning brave, — alai Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but above shall grow In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valour, rolling on the foe And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low.” The forest is about 9 m. long, and 7£ broad. 2 Waterloo. — Inn : H. de l’Ar- genteuil. This village, on the out- skirts of the forest, about 10. m. from Brussels, was the head-quarters of the English army, on the days before and following the battle to which it has given its name (June 17 and 19, 1815;. The Duke’s quarters were in the Post- house opposite the church. Here, after 16 hours in the saddle, he dis- mounted from his faithful steed Copen- hagen (long afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks of Strathfieldsaye), and the spirited animal, conscious of the termination of his labours, is stated to have kicked out in a manner which had nearly proved fatal to his rider. The moment a traveller comes in sight of Waterloo, he will be assailed by guides and relic-venders, claiming the honour of serving him in the capa- city of guide. The only mode of ap- peasing the clamours, and rescuing himself from the annoyance, is to fix upon one or other, informing him at the same time what will be his remu- neration. 3 or 4 francs will be enough for his services over the whole field; but if this be not settled before-hand, he will not hesitate to demand at least double. Edward Cotton, late serjeant- major in the 7th hussars, may be re- commended as the best guide to the field of Waterloo. He is well informed on the subject of the battle, having been present in it himself; and he has therefore some claim upon the patron- age of his countrymen. He has pub- lished an interesting soldier-like ac- count of it, under the title of “ A Voice from Waterloo.” His address is, Mont St. Jean, near the Barrier; his Mu- seum, which contains some really in- teresting objects, is in his house, op- posite the inn. By applying here, his services as a guide may be secured. The best native guides are Martin Pirson, Martin Visser, Jean Jacques Pierson, and Jacques Deligne; the last and Visser speak English. The little Church and church-yard of Waterloo are crowded with melan- choly memorials of English officers : they contain nearly 30 tablets and mo- numents to those who fell. Many a wounded Briton there was laid, With such poor help as time might theD allow From the fresh cnrnage of the field convey'd; And they whom human succours could not save. Here in its precincts found a hasty grave. And here on marble tablets set on high. In English lines by foreign workmen trac’d, Are names familiar to an English eye; Their brethren here the fit memorials plac’d. Whose unadorn'd inscriptions briefly tell Their gallant comrades’ rank, and where they fell. Among the curiosities of Waterloo, to the examination of which the most strenuous persuasion is used to invite the passing stranger, is the grave of the Marquis of Anglesea’s leg, and the house in which it was cut off, and where the boot belonging to it is preserved ! The owner of the house to whose share this relic has fallen finds it a most lu- crative source of revenue, and will, in spite of the absurdity of the thing, pro- bably bequeath it to his children as a valuable property. He has interred the leg most decorously within a coffin, under a weeping willow, and has ho- noured it with a monument and an epitaph. Waterloo is now nearly joined to Mont St. Jean, a long straggling village (the Hotels are decent little Inns), though once almost a mile from it, and lying on the edge of the field of battle. Here the road divides: the branch on the right leads to Nivelles ; the other, continuing straight on, is the high road to Genappe and Namur. Travellers not strong a-foot ought not to leave their carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont St. Jean, as it is still a mile short of the centre of the field, and this mile will considerably increase I170 ROUTE 24.—'"WATERLOO. Sect. II. the long walk which they must at any rate take in order to see the ground to advantage. It is more prudent to drive on to Hougoumont, 1 £ mile. If the traveller intend to proceed on to Namur, and not to return to Brussels, the carriage must stop at La Belle Al- liance, which is a sorry kind of public- house. Leaving the village of Mont St. Jean, the road reaches an open coun- try, almost entirely without trees; it ascends a gentle rise, and passes the large farm-house with offices called Ferme de Mont St. Jean, which during the battle was filled with wounded British, and served as a sort of hospital. The Mound surmounted by the Belgic Lion, by far the most conspicuous ob- ject in the field of Waterloo, now ap- pears in sight. It marks the spot which may be considered the centre of the conflict. The field had been examined by the Duke of Wellington in the previous year. In a “ Memorandum on the de- fence of the frontier of the Netherlands,” addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22d Sept. 1814, he says, “ About Nivelle, and between that and Binch, there are many advantageous positions for an army, and the entrance to the foret de Soignies by the high road which leads .to Brussels from Binch, Charleroi, and Namur, would, if worked upon, afford others.” — Despatches, xii. 129. Though not a strong position, it was the best between Quatre Bras and Brussels available for the protection of that capital. On arriving at the end of this ascent, the traveller finds himself on the brow of a hill or ridge extending on the right and left of the road, with a gentle hol- low or shallow valley before him and another ascent and nearly correspond- ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge on which he stands, the British army was posted, while the position of the French was along the opposite heights. The road on which we are travelling, intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, separated the 1. wing of the British and r. wing of the French from the main bodies of their respective armies. To render the declivity more gradual, the road has been cut through the crest of the ridge several feet deep, so as to form a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 Monuments have been' erected close to the roadside; that on the right (4 in the plan) ; a pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, bearing a most touch- ing epitaph, well worth perusal; that on the left (s), an obelisk in honour of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hereabouts the high road is tra- versed nearly at right angles by a small country cross-road. During the first part of the action, the Duke of Wel- lington stood in the angle formed by the crossing of these two roads, and on the right of the highway, at a little dis- tance from a solitary elm (* in the plan), called the Wellington Tree, from an unfounded report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew better than to post himself and his staff close to an object which must inevitably serve as a mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, however, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped by relic-hunters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About half-way down in the hollow which separated the two armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the Farm of La Haye Sainte (6) close to the roadside on the right. It was occupied by the soldiers, of the German Legion, and gallantly defended till their ammunition was exhausted, when they were literally cut to pieces: the French “ got possession ofit'about 2 o’clock, from a circumstance which is to be attributed to the neglect of the officer commanding on the spot, and were never removed from thence till I commenced the attack in the evening; but they never advanced further on that side.”— Despatches, xii. 610. A terrible carnage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Close to this house, a apot is shown as the grave of Shaw the valorous Lifeguardsman, who killed 9 French- men with his own hand in the battle. Not far off, on the opposite side of the road, a vast accumulation of bodies ofBelgium. ROUTE 24.—WATERLOO. 171 I 2172 ROUTE 24.—WATERLOO. Sect. II. men, intermixed with horses, were buried in one common grave. It was near this spot that the brave General Picton was killed, and Colonel Pon- sonby wounded. 5 Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. If we now proceed across the valley and up the opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle Alliance, a so- litary white house, on the left of the Toad (7), now a poor public-house. It was occupied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it; though towards the end of the en- gagement, Napoleon in person mar- shalled his imperial guards in front of it, for the final charge. Napoleon’s place of observation during a great part of the battle was nearly on a line with La Belle Alliance, at some dis- tance on the right of the road. The Prussians have erected a cast-iron monument (s) at a short distance on the left, in memory of their fellow- countrymen who fell here. Their loss in the battle amounted to nearly 7000; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity of Planchenoit, a village on the left of the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, which was stormed and retaken 3 times. It has been erroneously stated that Blucher met the Duke after the battle at La Belle Alliance ; but the fact is, that he did not overtake the Duke till he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison Rouge, or Maison du Roi, on the road to Genappe. Here the Duke gave or- ders for the halt of his troops. In spite of the fatigues of the day, he had pur- sued the French in person till long after dark; and when Colonel Har- vey, who accompanied him, pointed out the danger he ran of being fired at by stragglers from behind the hedges, he exclaimed, “ Let them fire away : — the victory is gained, and my life is of no value now.” A little way beyond La Belle Al- liance is the house of Coster (9), Na- poleon’s guide (since dead); and near this spot, a glimpse may be had of the farm of Hougoumont, 1 mile off on the right. Gros Caillou (I0), a farm-house in which Napoleon slept, was burnt in consequence by the Prussians next day, to show their hatred of their enemy. The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field has been made in the order in which a traveller would pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If he in- tend to turn aside and examine the'field more minutely, the following descrip- tion may assist him : — The Mound of the Belgic Lion (*) is by far the best station for surveying the field. It is a vast tumulus, 200 feet high, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie heaped indiscri- minately together. A flight of steps leads up to the top. The lion was cast by Cockerill of Liege, and is in- tended to stand on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. “ The mound and the lion have equally been the subject of ill-natured censures, but would appear appropriate enough, since they serve at once as a memorial, a trophy, and a tomb.” — Family Tour. The present appearance of the field differs considerably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the excavation made along the front of the British position, to obtain earth for this artificial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height; and the spot where the Duke of Wellington stood is quite cut away; the ground near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. From the top of the Mound, it will be perceived, that the ground is a per- fectly open and undulating plain. The British force was disposed in two lines along one of these undulations : the foremost line occupied the brow of the eminence, and wds partly protected by a hedge, running from Mont St. Jean to Ohain, which gave the name to the farm of La Haye Sainte (6); the second stood a little way behind, on the re- verse of the slope, so as to be partly sheltered from the enemy’s fire. The British were separated by the shallow valley above mentioned — varying from 500 to 800 yards in breadth — from the French, who were posted on the op-ROUTE 24.--WATERLOO. 173 Belgium. posite ridge. The situation of both armies was in many parts within point blank range of their opponent’s ar- tillery. The position of the British from right to left did not much exceed a mile and a half, — “ small theatre for such a tragedy; ” yet on this limited front did its commander place and ma- noeuvre an army of 54,000 men, a re- markable instance of concentration of force. ' It was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit the ground along the heights, and the right wing extended as far as Mirbe Braine. The right £ank of the centre stood 400 yards be- hind the house of Hougoumont (s), which was very strongly occupied ; the left of the centre was posted at a con- siderable distance behind the farm house of La Haye Sainte (°), which stood nearly midway between the 2 armies, and was also occupied and fortified as well as its small size and the time would admit. The distance between the 2 farms of Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 1300 yards. The French columns could not pass between them without being exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napoleon think it prudent to leave 2 such posts in his rear in the possession of his enemy ; and his first efforts, pre- vious to advancing against the English line, were to make himself master of them. The British army remained during the whole day firm in its position; and, formed into squares, received on this ridye, in front, and on each side of the ground now occupied by the Mound, the furious charges of the French ca- valry, who were on the plateau between the 2 high roads nearly £ of an hour, all firing having ceased on both sides. At the time of the appearance of the Prussians, not a square had been broken or shaken; the British had not swerved an inch backwards, but were rather in advance of their first position. The Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, July 2. 181 5 : “ Napoleon did not ma- noeuvre at all. He just moved forward in the old style in columns, and was driven off in the old style. The only difference was, that he mixed cavalry with his infantry, and supported both with an enormous quantity of artillery. I had the infantry for some time in squares, and we had the French cavalry walking about as if they had been our own. I never saw the British infantry behave so well.” Far on the left, in the direction of Wavre, are seen the woods through which the Prussians first advanced to the battle. The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- mont (3), about 3^- m. from Waterloo ch., l£ m. from Mont St. Jean, and ^ m. from La Haye Sainte, is decidedly the most interesting spot in the field of Waterloo, not only for its importance in the history of the battle, but because it still exhibits marks of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in fact, the key of the British position, and the possession of it would have enabled Napoleon to turn the English flank. It was on this account that he directed his utmost efforts towards it. At least 12,000 men, commanded by his brother Je- rome, were brought at different times against it, and the fierce attacks con- tinued with hardly any intermission during the whole of the day. It was an old-fashioned Flemish chateau, with walled gardens and farm offices at- tached to it. Had these buildings been formed for a fortress to resist the kind of assault which they endured, they could scarcely have possessed greater advantages; being surrounded on all sides by strong walls, which the Duke himself caused to be farther fortified by breaking loop-holes in them, through which the garrison, if it may be so called, directed the fire of their musket- ry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so furious were the attacks, and so dis- proportionably great the number of as- sailants, that it could not possibly have held out, but for the bravery of the troops by whom it was maintained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen-garden .were several times in the possession of the French, but they never succeeded in forcing the walled enclosures which surrounded the house. This little cita- del, though set on fire by the howitzers, I 3174 ROUTE 24.—WATERLOO. Sect. IL and almost gutted by the flames, was maintained to the last by the Cold- stream Guards. At the beginning of the battle, the house stood in the centre of a wood; but the trees were so mutilated by can- non shot during the action, that few remain. The old house set on Are by French shells has been entirely re- moved ; some of the outhouses, how- ever, still exhibit a shattered and patched-up appearance; and the walls of the orchard retain the loopholes formed by the English ; whilst on the outside they present a broken surface crumbling to the touch, from the effect of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them; the French, it is asserted, mistaking for some time the red brick wall for the English uniforms. “ The Belgian yeo- man’s garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies hung on the possession of this house.” In the little chapel is shown a crucifix, saved (as the peasants say) by miracle from the flames, which, after destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of the cross. The autographs of Byron, Southey, and Wordsworth, were once to be discovered among the names which cover the walls. Though it is not intended to give a history of the fight, the following ad- ditional facts will be not inappropriately introduced here :—the force which Na- poleon brought into the field amounted, by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 men : 54,000 men composed the whole of the Duke of Wellington’s army ac- tually engaged; of these only 32,000 were British or of the German Legion. It has been often asserted, and is still believed by many, that the Duke of Wellington was taken by surprise at Waterloo, and that he first heard the news of the advance of the French in a ball-room. This is not the fact: the intelligence was brought to the Duke on June 15. by the Prince of Orange, who found him at within 100 yards of his quarters in the park at Brussels, about 3 o’clock; and by 5 the same evening orders had been sent to all the divisions of the British army to break up their cantonments, and move on the left of Quatre Bras. A proposal was made to put off the ball intended to be given by the Duchess of Richmond that evening at Brussels; but it was thought better to let it proceed, and thus to keep the inhabitants in igno- ‘ ranee of the course of events: the Duke therefore desired his principal officers to be present, but to take care to quit the ball-room as soon after 10 as pos- sible : he himself stayed till 12, and set off for the army at 6 next morning. On the morning of the 16th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, rode across the country to Blu- cher, at Ligny, being unwilling to trust to any one the important point of concerting measures for the co-operation of the Prussians. Blucher then pro- mised to support him, early on the 18th, with two divisions of his army. This fact is important, and not generally known. Another common error re- specting this battle is, that the British were on the point of being defeated when the Prussians arrived: this is sufficiently refuted by the testimony of the Prussian general, Muffling, who expressly says that “ the battle could have afforded no favourable result to the enemy, even if the Prussians had never come up.” The Prussian army was expected to join the British at 2, but it appears from Blucher’s despatch that it was half-past 4 before a gun was fired by them, and that it was half- past 7 before they were in sufficient force to make any impression on the French right. At that hour Napoleon had exhausted his means of attack. He had no force but the four battalions of the old Guard in reserve. These gave way on the advance of the British line. The story of the Duke’s having thrown himself into the middle of a square of infantry during the charges of the French cavalry is also a pure fiction. The fertility of the ground on which the battle was fought increased greatly for several years after it took place. Nowhere were richer crops produced in the whole of Belgium, and the corn is said to have waved thickest, and to have been of a darker colour, overBelgium. route 24.—genappe. quatre bras.' 175 those spots where the* dead were in- terred, so that in spring it was possible to discover them by this mark alone. 4‘ But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree. Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around me the wide fields revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn’d from all she brought to those she could not bring.” Byron. as it a soothing or a mournful thought, \mid this scene of slaughter as we st Amid this scene ot slaughter as we stooa, Where armies had with recent fbry fought, To mark how gentle nature still pursued Her quiet course, as if she took no care For what her noblest work had suffered +lia*.a *JmiTUi?v The stranger arriving at Waterloo is commonly set upon by a numerous horde of relic-hunters, who bother him to buy buttons and bullets. The fur- rows of the plough during many suc- ceeding springs laid bare numberless melancholy memorials of the fight — half-consumed rags, bullets corroded and shattered, fragments of accoutre- ments, bones and skulls; but when the real articles failed, the vendors were at no loss to invent others ; so that there is little fear of the supply being ex- hausted. Beggars, too, a most perse- vering class of tormentors, beset every path, in many instances, apparently without the pretext of poverty. In 1705, the Duke of Marlborough was within an inch of fighting the French nearly on the same ground as Wellington. His head quarters were at Frischermont, and the French were posted across the Brussels road. He was thwarted, however, by the pig- headed obstinacy or cowardice of the Dutch commissioners who accompanied his army. The part of Belgium through which our route lies has been called the “ Cock-pit” of Europe, and has been for ages the ground upon which the powers of Europe have decided their quarrels. Besides the fields of Wa- terloo and Quatre Bras, through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, and the little village of Ramillies, where Marlborough gained one of his most famous victories over the French and Bavarians, lie within the province of Brabant, or only a short distance off our road. lj Genappe. — Inn: Hotel Martin- eau, indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels: 1800 inhab. ' It was on the road, a little way out of the town, that the Prussians captured the carriage of Napoleon, and nearly took him prisoner in it, on the night after the battle. [The road to the right leads to Ni- velles, 11 m. distant; {Inn; Cou- ronne) ; where, in the Church of St. Gertrude, there are two pulpits carved by Delvaux, said to be the finest in Belgium ; one, of wood, represents Elijah in the Desert; the other, of marble, the Good Samaritan. Jean de Nivelles is a colossal statue, which strikes the hours on the top of a tower. ] Between Quatre Bras and Nivelles is the estate presented by the King of the Netherlands to the Duke of Wel- lington, in gratitude for his great ser- vices. 3 m. E. of Genappe is the extensive Abbey of Villers in ruins, of Roman- esque architecture, date 1272. About 1^- m. from Genappe is the village of Baisy, where Godfrey of Bouillon, the leader of the first Crusade, was born, 1129. Tilly, 6 m. from Genappe, is the birthplace of the celebrated general of the 30 years’ war, the opponent Of Gustavus Adolphus, Count Tzerclas de Tilly. Nearly 3 m. from Genappe our road passes Quatre Bras, so called, because 4 roads, from Brussels, Charleroi, Ni- velles, and Namur, meet at this spot. An ingenious innkeeper of the place has discovered a different meaning for Qua- tre Bras, mid kindly translates it for the benefit of the English, by the words “ Three Legs I ” Here was fought that memorable engagement in which the brave Duke of Brunswick fell, at the head of his devoted black band (June 16. 1815). This position was con- sidered highly important by the Duke176 ROUTE 24v--SOMBREFFE. FLEURUS. NAMUR. Sect. II. of Wellington, as being the key of all the roads in the neighbourhood. He commanded in person during the en-, gagement, and repulsed Marshal Ney, securing the retreat of the British upon Waterloo, which had been rendered necessary by Blucher’s defeat at Ligny, in the face of the superior cavalry of Napoleon. The Duke was at one mo- ment surrounded and nearly made pri- soner in the farm-house, which stands in the N. E. angle of the 4 roads, by an unexpected charge of French cavalry, who dispersed 2 regiments of the allies, but were in their turn driven back by the English 'infantry, and none of the foremost of the pursuers were allowed to escape. The road which continues to the southward leads through Gosselies to Charleroi, 2| posts from Genappe : that which bears to the S. E. leads to 2 SombrefTe. 4 m. S.W. of Som- breffe lies the village of Fleurus, which gives a name to the victory gained here by the French over the Austrians in 1794. The same fields were witness to the repulse of the Prussians, under Blucher, by Buonaparte, who drove them, after an obstinate resistance, from their position at Ligny, a village 2 m. further on the 1. of the road to Som- breffe : this occurred two days before the battle of Waterloo, June 16. 1815. The Duke of Wellington visited Blu- cher a short while before the com- mencement of the action ; and here concerted with him measures of future co-operation on the 18th. The Duke’s practised eye perceived at once the faulty disposition of the Prussian army, and he foretold the defeat, which spee- dily followed. The Prussians were drawn up on the 1. of our road, near St. Amand and Ligny; Blucher stood near the Mill of Bussy. After the French had broken through the Prus- sian line, he headed a charge of cavalry in person; but, his horse having been shot under him, he was thrown to the ground, and 2 French regiments rode over him. In spite of his defeat, how- ever, he maintained his communica- tions with the English, and made good his retreat to Wavre : no beaten army ever rallied quicker. Two other bat- tles had been fought on nearly the same ground in 1622 and 1690. The road is uninteresting until, after crossing a small stream, it reaches the height overhanging Namur, which commands a fine view of its rock-built citadel and the valley of the Meuse. 2j Namur. — Inns : H. de Hol- lande, very good : H. de Harscamp. Capital of the Atuatici. Caesar (b.g. 2. 29.) well describes its situation, and its capture by him. It is now the ca- pital of the province of Namur, and a strong fortress with 21,500 inhab., built at the junction of the Sambre and Meuse. Owing to its numerous sieges and bombardments, it possesses few old buildings, and it has scarcely any ob- jects of interest, unless perhaps the tra- veller, calling to mind “my uncle To- by,” be induced, on his account, to pay a visit to Porte St. Nicholas. Namur was taken by Louis XIV., in 1692. Racine has written an account of the siege, and Boileau celebrated its cap- ture in a worthless ode ; it was retaken by the English under William III. from the French, after a siege of 10 weeks, in 1695. It was in this me- morable siege that “ my uncle Toby” was supposed to be engaged. The Cathedral of St. Aubin, one of the handsomest modern churches in Belgium, with a Corinthian fagade, was finished in 1766. It contains the mausoleum of Don John of Austria, the conqueror at Lepanto, who died in the camp at Bouge, a mile from Na- mur, in 1578, not without suspicion of poison from the jealousy of his brother Philip II. On the rt. of the altar is a monument to Bishop Pisani, by a sculptor of Ghent, 1829. A new pul- pit, erected in 1848, from the designs of M. Geerts, of Louvain, deserves no- tice. The figures cut in oak, life-size, are fine. Beneath the pulpit is a group, representing the Virgin guarding the City of Namur from the Demon of Pestilence. Namur is allegorically re- presented by a female. The Church of St. Loup, built by the Jesuits, is highly enriched internally with marble. It has a roof elaboratelyROUTE 24.—NAMUR. THE MEUSE. 177 Belgium. carved in stone by a brother of the order. The situation of Namur is most beau- tiful, and the best view is from the heights occupied by the commanding Citadel, which itself is well worthy of a. visit as a work of art: — an order of admission must be obtained from the commandant in the town. Namur and Huy are among the number of for- tresses greatly strengthened after the war, under the inspection of the Duke of Wellington, and partly at the ex- pense of Great Britain. They form part of the great barrier on the side of France; the work of centuries to erect, at the cost of vast sums of money, and as vast an expenditure of blood. Namur is the Belgian Sheffield ; — Its cutlery is celebrated, and is largely manufactured. It is said to approach nearer to the English than any made on the Continent; but is greatly inferior. The mines of coal, iron, and marble situated in the neighbourhood, give em- ployment to an industrious population. The crawfish of the Meuse are cele- brated, and the trout of the Sambre not to be despised. 3 miles from Namur is the Eremi- tage de la Montagne, cut in the rock by Carmelite monks. The valley of the Meuse above Namur, towards Di- nant (Rte. 30.), is even more pictur- esque than below the town. From Dinant an excursion may be made to the cavern of Hans on the Lesse. (Rte. 31.) A Diligence in 20 hours to Luxem- burgh, ( Rte. 29.) Railroad to Charleroi. (Rtes. 28. and 30.) The railroad to Liege will (1849) shortly he opened. The stations and distances will therefore be given here. It is a fine work: the engineer is G. Rennie, Esq. It runs close to the river, nearly the whole way, and on the left bank. The length is 61 kilo- metres, or 38^ Engl, miles. The sta- tion's outside the Porte de Fer. When it is opened, it will most probably put an end to the Steamers which ply on the Meuse, when there is water enough between Namur and Liege. In going to Liege, the voyage of about 45 m. is performed in 4 hours; from Liege to Namur takes 6 or 7 hours. During the summer two steamers a day leave Namur for Liege one at 6 a.m., the other at 3 f.m. A dam of masonry is thrown across the Sambre at Namur, with the view of rendering it navigable. Namur has a bridge over the Sam- bre, and one over the Meuse. They are both crossed by the road to Liege. An extra £ post is paid on quitting Namur with post-horses. From the right bank of the river the view of Namur and its lofty citadel, standing on a high promontory, at whose foot the two rivers unite, is very picturesque, and the scenery continues of a most interesting character for many miles, through which the road runs along the river bank. The banks of the Meuse between Na- mur and Liege are hardly surpassed in beauty by any river scenery in N. Eu- rope : rock, wood, and water have done their utmost, yet the scenery is not properly mountainous. The Meuse has been compared to the Wye; bilt is even more romantic than the English river. “ What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? Is this the stream, whose cities, heights, and plains, War’s favourite play-ground, are with crimson stains Familiar, as the morn with pearly dews ? The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains To tend their silent boats and ringing wains. Or strip the bow whose mellow fruit bestrews The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade. With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade, That, shaped like old monastic turrets rise From the smooth meadow-ground, serene and still I ” Wordsworth. The Meuse* affords a pleasing mix- ture of cultivation and wildness, of ac- tive industry and quiet nature, smoking steam-engines and naked and abrupt cliffs of limestone, ruined castles and flourishing villages, with huge many* windowed mills and factories, which give an agreeable variety to the road. * Mr. Dudley Costello’s “ Valley of the Meuse” contains full details respecting Routes 24 and 30. . . I 5178 ROUTE 24.—THE MEUSE. HUT. Sect. II. The district swarms with population all the way to Liege, and the soil is in the highest state of culture ; the lower grounds occupied by the richest corn fields and hop grounds, or the most verdant meadows. These, with the winding-river flowing between them, form the features of a most beautiful landscape: The numerous quarries in the limestone cliff along the river banks afford a very excellent marble, which is cut into blocks, and sent down the river to Holland, where it is used for flag stones, and even for finer purposes. On the banks are seen the red stains of the earth which furnishes alum to nu- merous works. (The 1.and rt. refer to the left and right banks of the river: the distances between the several stations are given in kilometres.) Not far from Namur the chateau of Brumagul is passed, and (/.) beneath some precipitous cliffs, — 7. 8^ Marche les Dames Stat., the mansion of the Due d’Aremberg, close to some iron works. It occupies the site of an abbey founded, in 1101, by 139 noble ladies, whose husbands had gone to the crusade along with Godfrey of Bouillon. 7. 2| Nameche Stat., a pretty vil- lage, shrouded by orchards. rt. Schlayen.—The neighbourhood abounds in coal mines. 1. Seilles, a straggling village, with marble quarries and limekilns. r. 7^ Andenne Stat., a manufac- turing place, having potteries. Clay for tobacco-pipes is exported hence to Holland. 7. Basse Oha Stat., a restored castle. The culture of the vine begins here, but it produces a poor wine. rt. On the heights are the'ruins of Beaufort Castle. Before reaching the next station, at Huy, the Railway is carried through a tunnel, in order to avoid a bend of the river: the fine scenery is thus shut out of view. rt. Sj Hot (pronounced We) Stat. Inn: Poste, at the water-side. Has 8000 inhab. ; it is romantically situ- ated on the Meuse, which divides it into 2 parts, and is traversed by an ancient stone bridge. Here the Meuse is joined by the little river Hoyoux, the scenery of which, for many miles above the junction, is very picturesque. Near Huy is the culminating point of the beauties of the scenery of the Meuse. The Citadel, repaired and strengthened on the most approved plans of modern fortification, under the direction of skil- ful English engineers, since 1815, com- mands the passage up and down the valley of the Meuse. The works are partly excavated in the solid rock, and high walls of most massive masonry have been added to the natural pre- cipices on which it stands. Strangers are allowed to see the fortifications. The Collegiate Church ofNStreDame, founded by St. Maternus, situated under the citadel, is approached on one side by a gateway, surmounted with sculptures in relief, from the Life of the Virgin ; the date of the present building is 1311; the interior is of a graceful style of Gothic, and is certainly worthy of being examined. In one of the suburbs stood the abbey of Neufmoustier (i. e. Novum Monas- terium), founded by Peter the Hermit, the preacher of the first Crusade (d. 1115), who was himself buried in it. His remains and monument were re- moved^ to Rome in 1634 : part of the cloisters remain; the church is gone. The site is in the property of the Baron de Cattus, who allows strangers to’ see the Hermit’s bhrial-place — a cruciform vault in the present garden. Neuf- moustier was one of the 17 convents which existed here, together with 14 parish churches, while the town was under the dominion of the' Prince Bishop of Liege, though the total po- pulation at the time did not exceed 5000! Huy contains many curious relics of its ancient religious houses, now turned into workshops, &c. At Huy the post road changes from the right to the left bank of the river. The hills are less lofty and precipitous than above Huy. Zinc and calamine works of considerable magnitude may be seen in full activity at Ampsin, near Huy, but on the left bank of the river. New establishments have lately beenBelgium. ROUTE 24.---SERAING. LIEGE. built for working these ores, which pre- vail along the valley of the Meuse be- tween Liege and Namur — particularly on the Liege side of Huy. 1. Corphalie, an extensive zinc ma- nufactory ; there are mines of calamine near this. rt. Chateau de Neufville, in the old French style, with two turrets. Amay Station. 1. The stately old abbey of Flone, a red brick building, now the residence of a lawyer. At Engis, close to which the railroad passes, there are alum works. 1. On an elevated and precipitous rock rises the Chateau of Chokietr, an old building, faced with a modern front, of Italian architecture, surmounted by a Ted tower. The scarped rock is skirted by the Railway. It was once taken and burnt by the Huitois. 11 Flemalle Stat. At this station a branch turns off which joins the Mech- lin and Aix-la-Chapelle railroad on the left bank. The Railway, which runs into Liege, crosses the Meuse on a bridge of 5 arches, 82 ft. span : opposite, rt., is Val St. Lambert, where are the largest glass-works on the Continent. 1^ m. lower down is rt. 4^ Seraing Stat., a populous village, stretching nearly a mile along the bank of the Meuse, and occupied by workmen, connected by- a handsome suspension bridge thrown over the Meuse with (1.) Jemeppe. This cp- lossal establishment was formed by the enterprising manufacturer the late John Cockerill, 1816. It is, perhaps, the largest manufactory of machinery in the world ; and occupies the former Palace of the Prince Bishops of Liege, which now serves but as the facade or vestibule of the other vast constructions since added to fit it for its present purpose, extending J m. back from the river, over the space once the Episcopal gar- dens, now blackened with coal, and piled up with iron. Amidst the smoke and flames issuing from its 40 or 50 tall chimnies, its palatial and ecclesiastical character have alike nearly disappeared. The vast pile of building forms a little town of itself; iron and coal are ex- tracted from mines within its walls, which also enclose a canal and railroad leading down to' the' river,' 4 blast fur- naces, 15 puddling furnaces, rolling mills, and forges, where iron is wrought into articles of all sorts, from penknives up to steam-engines and locomotives, inferior only to those made in England. A locomotive costs 37,500 fr. The Lion, on the field of Waterloo, was cast here. 3 to 4 thousand workmen are employed at Seraing, in addition to 15 steam-engines, equivalent to 700 horse power. Mr. Cockerill was ori- ginally in partnership with the late King of Holland ; but after his expul- sion from Belgium, in 1830, Mr. C. purchased his share. Mr. C. died at Warsaw in 1840, and Seraing has since been disposed of to a company, styled “ La John' Cockerill Societe,” by whom it is now worked. The place is not shown, except to persons bearing letters of introduction, which may be obtained in the office at Liege. 2 Ougree Station. 6^ Longdoz Stat. (Liege). The branch which turns off at Fle- malle, and runs along the left bank, is 11 kilometres. = 6 miles 7 furlongs, in length. The stations are, 3£ kilom. Jemeppe Stat., opposite to Seraing. 2 Tilleur Stat. 5£ Guillemins Stat. on the main line of railroad to Aix-la-Chapelle, and on the left bank of the river above Liege. 2 Liege (Flemish, Luyk; German, Liittich.)—Inns : H. de Bellevue, op- posite the Pont de la Boverie, new and good; room, l£fr. and upwards; break- fast, 1 fr. ; table d’hote at 1, 2^-fr.; Pa- vilion Anglais ; H. d’ Angleterre, good ; Hotel de Suede; H. del’Europe, good, and clean. P. A. le Sauvage, oppo- site the Cathedral; H. de France; Ho- tel de Londres, good and moderate. Liege is finely situated at the junc- tion of the Ourthe with the Meuse, in a fertile valley, most productive in vege- tables ; it has 74,650 inhab., and no other Belgian town appears to be so thriving. The clouds of smoke usually seen from a distance hanging over it180 ROUTE 24.—LIEGE. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY. Sect. II. proclaim the manufacturing city,—the Birmingham of the Low Countries; and the dirty houses, murky atmosphere, and coal-stained streets, are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in which its inhabitants are engaged. The staple manufacture is that of fire- arms ; Liege is, in fact, one great ar- moury, and produces a better article, it is said, at a low price, than can be made for the same sum in England. The saddlery is also very good here, and a particular kind of coarse cloth is manufactured in large quantities. There is a Royal Cannon Foundery in the suburb of St. Leonhard, and Mr. Cockerill’s establishment manufactures spinning machinery and steam engines to rival the English. The cause of this commercial prosperity is, as might be conjectured, the presence of coal in great abundance close at hand. The mines are worked upon very scientific principles: some of them are situated so near to the town that their galleries are carried under the streets, so that many of the houses, and even the bed of the river, are in sorqe places under- mined. Previous to the Revolution, Holland was supplied with coal from Belgium ; but the home, consumption has since increased to such an extent, from the numerous manufactories which have sprung up on all sides, that the Belgian mines are now inadequate to supply the demand, and a law has been passed permitting the importation of coals from Newcastle. Li£ge once contained 40 religious houses, 32 parish churches, and 7 col- legiate churches, besides the cathedral. 21 churches remain. The buildings best worth notice in Li£ge are, the Church of St. Jacques, and the court of the Palais de Justice, formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built by the Cardl. Bishop Erard de la Marck, 1533. The stunted pillars of the colonnade which surrounds it bear a resemblance to those of the ducal palace at Venice, and have a striking effect. Each pillar is carved with a different pattern. The front of the palace is modern—but in the rear remains much good Gothic of the 16th century. A tower of brick rising over the roof, now a prison, was originally the Bishop’s watch tower. In the square in front of the Bishop’s palace stood the cathedral of St. Lam- bert. It was utterly destroyed by the French revolutionists, and no traces of it now remain. The present Cathedral, formerly the collegiate ch. of St. Paul, was founded, in 967, by Bp. Heraclius. It is a fine building, 82 ft. high, of good propor- tions, surmounted by a black spire, with turrets at the angles (the choir erf the 13th century, the nave 1557) ; and its new cedar-wood pulpit, carved by Geefs, with 6 marble statues beneath it, is an example of the perfection to which this art is brought in Belgium. It also contains a picture by Lairesse. No one is ever buried here: why, is not known. St. Jacques, date 1513, 1528, lately repaired by the govern- ment, is the finest of the existing churches : the arches are elegantly fringed ; it possesses wide windows (filled with painted glass), elegantly mullioned; net-work screens, reeded pillars, branching into rich tracery, spreading over the roof, studded with embossed ornaments, containing within them gay arabescoes, medallions of saints, sovereigns, and prelates innu- merable, all most gorgeously, yet har- moniously painted and gilt.— Hope. The painted glass in the choir (date, early in the 16th century), ranks among the most perfect productions of the art in Europe. This church may be visited on the way to or from the railroad. Liege contains many churches of great antiquity. St. Bartholomew’s Church, a Basilica, built about 1000, is finely carved in front, and possesses a beau- tiful brass font, a masterpiece of Gothic art, in the beginning of the 13th cen- tury. St. Denis was consecrated in 990; it is chiefly Romanesque : the choir is Gothic. St. Croix is very ancient, with a tower in a Moorish style. There is a good view from the tower of St. Martin's. The University is a handsome build- ing, erected by the late King of Hol- land in 1817. It contains a Museum,Belgium. which, though not very complete or well arranged, possesses some objects of in- terest, as illustrating the natural his- tory of this part of Belgium ; such as the collection of fossil bones from this and the neighbouring provinces. “ Near Liege there are numerous caverns, which have acquired celebrity from the abun- dant and remarkable animal remains they have afforded, and the interest attached to them is heightened by the discovery of human bones and skulls in tbe same cave with bones of bears, hyasnas, the elephant, and rhinoceros. It would appear, however, that the remains of man were introduced at a later period than those of the animals. The principal caves are those of Engis, Chokier, Ramioul, Engihoul, Huy, Fond de Foret, Goffontaine.” (2’. T.) The library contains, besides books, many curious MSS. collected from suppressed monasteries. A Botanic Garden, well stored with plants, and beautifully kept, is attached to the University. There are 17 professors, who lecture to about 500 students in the various faculties. Post Office, Rue de la Regence. Vigilantes, § £22. A. There are 3 bridges over the Meuse : the Pont des Arches, the oldest, and lowest down the stream: the steamers bring-to near it; the Pont de la Boverie, of 4 arches, a truly handsome recent structure; and the Pont du Val Benoit, for the passage of the railroad. The Casino, in the outskirts of Liege, in the midst of some ornamental grounds, is worth a visit (§ 40.). En- glish strangers are admitted to the balls given here. Outside the walls, in the convent of St. William, is the grave of Sir John Mandeville, the English traveller. Gretry, the composer, was born here, in a house marked by an inscribed tablet on the front, in the Rue des Recollets. A statue of him, in bronze, 13 ft. high, by Geefs, is set up in the Square facing the University, which is called after him Place Gretry. The florist should visit Makois’ gar- den near Liege, one of the most cele- 181 brated in Belgium: from it there is a fine view of the town. Liege, in mediaeval Latin, was called Leodium, and is the capital of the Walloons, who spread from this to Longwy in France and to Mons, and are very anxious not to be supposed Flemish, claiming a descent from the Eburones. The Walloon language, spoken by the lower orders, differs from the German and the Flemish, re- sembling the old French of the 13th century, but contains many Celtic and some Teutonic words unknown to French of any age. The Walloons, like the Swiss, served in former times in the armies of Spain, Austria, and France; they were generally enrolled into cavalry regiments: a regiment of 700 men composed the standing army or body-guard of the Ecclesiastical Princes of Liege. The German emperors, as early as the 10th century, raised the bishops of Liege to the rank of sovereign and independent princes, and bestowed ter- ritory upon them, which they held as a fief of the empire. At the time of the visit of Pope Innocent II. with St. Ber- nard in 1131, the chapter of St. Lambert was the noblest known: of its 60 ca- nons, 9 were sons of kings, 14 sons of dukes, 29 counts, and 7 barons; one only was not of noble birth. The Pope sang mass before the Emperor Lothaire and the Empress, and crowned them in the cathedral. The government of the bishops was never strong, and the his- tory of Li^ge is little better than a narrative of a succession of bloody re- volutions, in which a discontented populace struggled for freedom and power and licence, with a despotic and often incompetent ruler. Li£ge, never- theless, remained under the dominion of its bishops down to the time of the French invasion, 1794. , It is recorded that one of them had the audacity to declare war against Louis XIV.; for which temerity he was chastised by having the town bombarded about his ears for 5 days, by Marshal BoufHers, in 1691. A visit to Liege, and the ancient ROUTE 24.---LIEGE.182 ROUTE 24.—LIEGE. QUENTIN DURWARD. Sect. II. Bishop’s palace, will call to the mind of an Englishman the vivid scenes and descriptions of Quentin Durward. He will, however, in vain endeavour to identify many of the places there spoken of with the spot. The Bishop’s “ Castle of Schonwaldt, situated about 10 m. from the town,” cannot be Seraing, as it was not built till a much later period. Sir Walter Scott never visited Liege himself, so that his localities are purely imaginary; yet from the vividness of his description of the town, and the perfect consistency of all his topogra- phical details, few readers would doubt that he was personally acquainted with it. He has also made a slight variation in the romance from the real facts of history, as far as relates to Liege: and as the events on which he founded the novel are of the highest interest, and serve to illustrate the story of this ancient “ Imperial free city,” it may not be amiss shortly to relate them. The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Commines says, by pride and riches, gave constant proofs of their boldness and independence by acts of insubordination, and even of Open re- bellion, against their liege lord, Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and against the bishops, who were his allies or sup- ported by him. He had inflicted severe chastisement upon the Liegeois after his victory at St. Trond (when many thousands of them were left dead on the field), by abridging their privileges and taking away their banners; and when they submissively brought him the keys of the town, he refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to batter down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He then entered by the breach, with his visor down, his lance in rest, at the head of his armed bands, as a con- queror; and further, to disable the bold burghers from mutiny, ordered all their fortifications to be demolished. This punishment was inflicted in 1467 ; but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of secret emissaries of Louis XI., seized upon the person of their bishop in his castle at Tongfes, and brought him prisoner to Liege. They were headed by one John de Vilde, or Ville, called by the French Le Sauvage: it is not improbable that he was an Englishman, whose real name was Wild, and that he Was one of those lawless soldiers who at that time served wherever they got best pay, changing sides whenever it suited them. The Liegeois, under this Vilde, committed many acts of cruelty, cutting in pieces, before the bishop’s eyes, one of his attendants, and murdering 16 others who were canons of the church, on the road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott’s romance, William de la Marck plays nearly the same part as Wild; but in reality this bishop succeeded soon after in making his escape. In 1482, 14 years after the events narrated in the novel, and long after the death of Charles the Bold, William de la Marck, The Wild Boar of Arden- nes, wishing to obtain the mitre for his son, murdered the Bishop of Liege, Louis de Bourbon, whom Charles the Bold had supported. When tidings of the proceedings of the men of Liege were brought to Charles the Bold at Peronne, he im- mediately laid Louis under arrest, exactly as described in the novel, and compelled him to march against the rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while he led on his own Burgundians. Louis showed little hesitation to comply with the proposal, though the citizens were his allies, and he had in fact fomented the rebellion. Nothing, however, ap- pears to have damped the courage of the Liegeois: they made 3 separate sallies out of their breaches and over their ruined walls. They were led on by the same Vilde, who in one of these attacks was slain, but not before he had laid low many of the bravest among the Burgundian guards. Their last sally was planned at a moment when the invad- ing forces, tired out with long watch- ing, had taken off their armour and retired to rest, previous to, the grand assault on the town, which Charles and Louis had arranged for the following morning. The foremost in this enter-Belgium. route 24.—liege, environs. 183 prise were 600 men from a town called Franchimont, on the road between Liege and Spa, firm allies of the citi- zens, and considered their bravest sol- diers. Like the Spartans and Romans of old, these 600 devoted themselves to the enterprise of seizing or slaying the 2 princes, as they lay in their quarters before the town, or agreed to perish in the attempt. About midnight the Scotch artliers and Burgundian guards attached to the persons of the 2 sove- reigns were roused by a terrible alarm of the enemy, who had penetrated al- most up to the 2 houses in which the princes were lodged, without discovery. The attack was so sudden, and the con- tusion which ensued so much aug- mented by the jealousy which subsisted between the Duke and the King, each believing the other to be concerned in the plot, that the enterprise had nearly succeeded. But having recovered from the surprise, and hastily put on their armour, they succeeded at last, with the aid of their guards, in driving back the assailants, and the brave men of Franchimont were for the most part cut to pieces. The next day the city was stormed, as intended; but the invaders found less resistance than was expected. It appeared that the citizens had supposed themselves secure on that day, because it was Sunday, and were taking some rest after the exertions of the preceding night. So unsuspicious were they in- deed, that the besiegers found the cloth laid in almost every house which they entered, as it happened to be dinner time. Many were slaughtered at once, to appease the vengeance of Charles; a great number fled to the woods, only to perish there of cold. The city was condemned by him to destruction ; and no sooner had he quitted it, than it was set on fire in three places, and all the buildings, except churches or con- vents, burnt to the ground. These events took place in 1468; before that time the number of inhabi- tants exceeded 120,000. Much interesting matter, relating to the town and its environs, may be read in.(( Promenades Historiques dans le Pays le Li6ge, par le Docteur B—y.” Environs. —■ A very extensive pros- pect may be obtained from the heights above the town, especially from the old citadel on Mont St. Walburg, on the 1. bank of the Meuse. Another good point of view is the Fort Chartreuse, an eminence on the opposite side of the valley. The junction of the 3 valleys of the Meuse, Ourthe, and Vesdre, close to the Liege, forms a landscape of no ordinary beauty. At Rohermont, a height above the Chartreuse, the Austrians, under the Prince of Coburg, suffered a defeat (1794) from the French under Jour- aain, which wrested the Pays-Bas for ever from the house of Austria. Herstal, see below, p. 184. Excursions to Spa and Chaud Fon- taine, described Route 25., and to the caves of Maestricht, which will occupy 6 or 8 hours by steamer. In order to gain admittance to see the Iron Works at Seraing, a written order must be obtained from the Cockerill Society’s office in Liege. An omnibus goes thither every hour. “ Steamers ply, when there- is water enough, daily to and from Namur; daily to Rotterdam, stopping for the night at Venlo. Liege to Maestricht.—Steamers twice a-day, in 2\ hours, returning in 4 h. Baggage is searched at the custom- houses. The landing-place of the steamers is close to the Pont des Arches. The first objects to remark are: 1. The Mont de Piete, of red brick with stone quoins, and the Royal Can- non Foundery, backed by tbe hill of the citadel. 1. A round tower; the stump of a burnt windmill. rt. Jupille, peeping from among the trees, with its ch., was the favourite resort of King Pepin, who died here 714. rt. Souverain Wandre. 1. About 3 m. from Liege. Herstal, birth-place of Pepin le Gros, Maire du Palais to the last Merovingian kings of France. There are some fragments184 ROUTE 25.—XIEGE TO AIX. CHAUD FONTAINE. Sect. II. of a Frankish (?) Palace with 2 turrets near the Town-house. The village has stretched itself nearly 3 m. along the shore towards Liege, and is nearly united to it. Its inhabitants are chiefly work-people. rt. Chateau of Argenteau: belongs to the wealthy Count Mercy. Argen- teau is finely placed on the summit of a rocky height. The court is con- nected by a bridge with another rock occupied by gardens. rt. Vise, once a fortress, was the head-quarters of Louis XIV. in 1673, during the siege of Maestricht. The fortifications were razed by the inhabi- tants, 1775. 1. Lixhe: Belgian custom-house. rt. Eysden : Dutch custom-house. The summit of the Petersberg is crowned by the Chateau Caster, be- longing to M. de Brouckere. The ruins of a Roman fort, called Lichten- berg, are also visible, and near it the entrance to the cavern. On the N. slope of the hill run the walls of the citadel. 1. MaeStricht (R. 27. p. 193.). The Inns are a good way from the water- side, but the guide to the quarries of the Petersberg lives a little way within the gate, near the Arsenal. ROUTE 25. LIEGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, BY VER- VJERS, RAILWAY.--VISIT TO SPA. 55 kilometres = 34§ miles. ' This Railway was finished in 1843— 44. Trains, in 2£ hours, exclusive of a stoppage of 1 hour at the custom-house of Verviers. The country between Liege andJAix- la-Chapelle presented serious obstacles to the formation of a railway, which have been overcome only by the utmost skill and arduous exertions of the en- gineer. The cost exceeded 25,000,000 francs; there are no less than 19 tunnels in the Belgian part of the line alone, so that it has been compared to a needle run through a corkscrew. It is con- ducted across the Meuse by a lofty bridge (Pont du Val St Benoit) of 7 arches, 469 ft. long, a little way above Liege. It afterwards follows nearly the same line as the high road as far as Limburg, crossing the Vesdre by 17 bridges, and repeatedly piercing the rock. The river Ourthe is crossed by a bridge of 3 arches at 4 Chenee St. — a place of manufac- ture at the junction of the Ourthe with the Vesdre (the s is pronounced in this word): the railway ascends the agree- able valley of the Vesdre, one of the most charming in Belgium, crossing the windings of the stream all the way to Limburg. The scenery is enlivened by neat villas and gardens, interspersed with orchards and green pastures, alter- nating with large manufactories, prin- cipally of cloth, giving to it an English character. 3 Chaud Fontaine Stat.—Inns: H. des Bains, a large bathing establish- ment : H. de Liege, excellent; table d’hote 2l fr. The hot spring, which supplies the baths, rises in an island in the midst of the Vesdre. The water is pumped up by a large wheel turned by the stream. This little village is a favourite Sun- day resort of the Liegeois : its situation is charming; the scenery around bears some resemblance to that of Matlock, and the wooded heights which enclose it, abound in shady walks leading to points of extensive view when the summit is reached. The Vesdre was a good fishing stream, but it is said that the grayling have been destroyed in this part by the erection of some zinc works about a mile higher up. 4 Le Trooz St. 4 Nessonvaux St. 5 Pepinster Stat. rt. is a modem Gothic castle of the Vicomtc de Viollay, a manufacturer of Verviers, said to occupy the site of King Pepin’s hunting lodge. rt. Here the road to Spa turns off. Coaches and omnibuses run thither, in hr. Fares, fr. in the coupe, 1 fr. in the omnibus, 6 or 7 frs. for a car- riage for S or 6 persons. Post horses may be had at Pepinster.ROUTE 25.--SPA. 185 Belgium. Excursion to Spa, 2£ posts. *** Travellers pressed for time, and wishing to make the best use of it, will hardly be rewarded in turning out of their road to visit Spa: as a watering- place it is much fallen off, and its scenery is inferior to that of the Rhine. At the village of Pepinsterre, a road on the right turns off to Spa, along the valley of the Hoegne, equally pleasing with that of the Vesdre, clothed with meadows of the brightest verdure, and enlivened by many country-houses, be- longing principally to the manufac- turers of Verviers. Long lines of cloth hung out in the sun proclaim the staple manufacture of the district. A little beyond the village of Theux, famous for its quarries of black marble, are “ The Towers qf Franchimont. Which, like an eagle’s nest in air, Hang o’er the stream and hamlet fair. Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amassed through rapine and through wron By the last lord of Franchimont. The iron chest is bolted hard, A huntsman sits, its constant guard ; Around his neck his horn is hung, His hanger in his belt is slung; Before his feet his bloodhounds lie, An’ ’twere not for his gloomy eye, Whose withering glance no art can brook, As true a huntsman doth he look, As bugle ere in brake did sound. As bugle ere in brake did sound. Or ever hallooed to a hound. “ To chase the fiend, and win the prize In that same dungeon ever tries An aged necromantic priest; It is an hundred years at least Since ’twixt them first the strife begun, And neither yet has lost i conjuror’s w bborn demon l And oft the bands of iron break And oft the conjuror’s words will make The stubborn demon groan and quake: Or bursts one lock, that still amain Fast as ’tis opened shuts again. Thus magic strife within th May 1 e tomb May last until the day of doom, Unless the adept shall learn to tell The very word that clenched ery word that clenched the spell, When Franchimont locked the treasure cell. id years are passed and gone, And scarce three letters has he won.” Walter Scott. An hund During the siege of Liege by Charles the Bold and Louis XI., 600 inhabit- ants of Franchimont banded themselves together with the design of seizing the persons of these two monarchs as they lay encamped before the walls. They failed in their bold attempt, as has been already related, and paid for their heroism with their lives. An inscrip- tion on the face of the rock, by the road side, still keeps alive the recollection of the deed. (See p. 183.) At the end of an avenue of lime-trees a mile long, lies 2|{ Spa. — Inns: H. de York. — H. de Flandre, has a good table d’hote, and is a fair house in other respects.—H. de Bellevue at one end of the town in an airy situation, civil and moderate in charges. Ld. St.—H. d’Orange.— H. des Pays-Bas, cheap. Table d’hote 2 fr. a head, very good. Charges. 2 to 5 fr. a day for'a room; table d’hote, 3 fr.; breakfast, 25 sous: dinner in private, 3 f. ; a bottle of Bordeaux wine, 3 fr. Servants are fed at 3;fr. a day. ‘When the party exceeds 2 or 3, or where per- sons take up their residence for some time, an abatement is made in the charges. A person about to make some stay may bargain beforehand to be boarded and lodged for 5 fr. a day. Persons may board and lodge at the Bellevue for and 4 frs. a-day during the winter. A good furnished house with stabling may be had for about 601. a-year. The small mutton of the Ardennes enjoys so high a reputation, even in other countries, that.instances have oc- curred of the larger portion of a sheep being conveyed in the Belgian ministers dispatch bag to some of the aristocratic dinner tables of London. Spa is almost made up of inns and lodging-houses, many of which are shut up in winter. The number of perma- nent inliab. is about 4000. It is very prettily situated in a sort of semi-basin, in the midst of mountains forming part of the Ardennes Chain; the heights overhanging it are covered with shrubberies, and intersected by healthful and airy walks, with pleasing prospects at intervals. A large part of the town is built close under the rocks, which, so far from holding out any en- couragement to this near approxima- tion, have on several occasions given the inhabitants a warning to keep at a respectful distance, by overwhelming their dwellings with vast masses of stone186 ROUTE 25.—SPA. Sect. IL detached from above. Several houses near the Promenade de Sept Heures remain either wholly or partly buried amidst heaps of debris, occasioned by a slide of part of the mountain. The hint has not altogether been attended to; the roofs shattered by the falling of rocks have been repaired, and the houses again tenanted, though exposed con- stantly to a recurrence of the danger. A new Bath House is built near the Promenade de Sept Heures. The principal spring, called the Pouhon (pouher, in Walloon, is the same as puiser, to draw), is situated in the centre of the town, under a colonnade built by the King of the Netherlands in honour of Peter the Great. The building contains a pump-room, in which a band plays from 7 to 9 a/m. and the newspapers of different coun- tries are to be seen. From this spring oomes the Spa water, which is sent to the ends of the earth for the benefit of invalids. It is an admirable tonic, good for nervous and bilious disorders. It owes its medical properties to the iron, with which it is impregnated in greater Quantity than any other spring known, mingled with a considerable proportion of salts; while the superabundance of carbonic acid in it renders it agreeable to drink, capable of being transported to great distances, and of being preserved in bottles for a long period without injury. Not many yards from this spring is the Redoute, a handsome building, which includes under one roof a cafe, a theatre, ball-room, and gambling-rooms, where rouge et noir, roulette, and similar games are carried on nearly from morn- ing to night. On Saturday a ball is given here during the season. In former times the gaming-houses belonged to the Bishop of Li6ge, who was a partner in the concern, and de- rived a .considerable revenue from his share in the ill-gotten gains of the manager of the establishment, and no gambling tables could be set up with- out his permission. The handsome edifice called Vauxhall, built as second Redoute, and much frequented in former times, though now aban- doned, has been used as a chuTch, where the English service is performed on Sundays; but an English chapel is about to be erected behind the Pouhon. A bookseller near the Pouhon has a reading-room, where “ The Times ” and one or two other English papers are taken in. A list is published from time to. time of all the arrivals in Spa; a large proportion of the names are English. Spa has, however, of late much fallen off in the number as well as rank of its visiters. It is, in fact, out of fashion. Since 1854 the En- glish have deserted it for the Brunnen of Nassau, which far surpass Spa in their situation, and have another ad- vantage in their near proximity to the beauties of the Rhine — in a district which offers excursions almost without end. During the time when Spa was the first watering-place in Europe, monarchs were as plentiful as weavers from Verviers now are at the springs ; and more than once a congress of crowned heads has met here for sana- tory, not for political purposes. Charles II. visited the spot while in exile; and Peter the Great repaired hither repeat- edly. The Baths are in a building sepa- rated from the spring ; they belong to the town. A bath costs 2 francs. Two English physicians are establish- ed at Spa, with the license of the Bel- gian government, Dr. Cutler and Dr. Dennis. The other mineral springs besides the Pouhon are 5 in number, and are at a distance of between 2 and 3 m. from the town. The principal are — 1. The Geronstire; it is very beautifully situated. 2. The SauveniSre, on the road to Malmedy, in a little plantation of trees. 3. The Groesheck, not far from the Sauveniere. 4. The Tonnelets, so called because the water was first col- lected in little tubs. There are baths attached to this spring. 5. The Bar- fdSCli'C* The daily routine at Spa is nearly as follows : — People begin the day with a preparatory glass at the Pouhon, to which they repair en deshabille, in their dressing-gowns, about 6 or 7 o’clock ; after which they proceed, generally onBelgium. horseback or in carriages, to the springs out of the town. Attached to almost all of them is a building corresponding to a pump-room, and they are sur- rounded with pleasure-grounds and walks, where a hand of music is sta- tioned, while the drinkers make their promenade to and fro till about 9 o’clock. At that hour the company return home, dress, and breakfast. As early as 11 in the morning the fatal Redoute opens, but there are the more healthy pleasures of exploring the walks and rides of the neighbourhood for such as do not patronise the gaming- table. It is the custom here for every body to ride on horseback. There are a great many ponies for hire; when a visiter finds out a tolerable one, he had better engage it for the whole period of his stay. The hire of a pony for the whole day is 5 or 6 fr., and 2 or 3 fr. are paid to go and return from the springs in the morning. A carriage for making the tour of the springs costs 8 fr., chars- a-banc and open omnibuses take per- sons round the springs at £ franc a-head. The dinner hour at the table d’hote is 2 or 3 o’clock. There are 2 packs of English hounds kept at Spa, one a subscription pack, known as the “ Venerie Ardenaise,” the other the “ Dwarf Harriers” of M. Vackell. There is much game in the neighbourhood, and good trout, and grayling fishings Spa is famous for a peculiar manu- factory of Wooden Toys, somewhat like the Tunbridge ware. The wood of which they are formed is stained by being steeped in the mineral waters, and receives a dark grey or brown tint from the iron. A considerable number of hands, and some artists of no mean skill, are employed in decorating them with paintings of flowers, &c. There are two walks in the town, called the Promenades de Quatre Heures and de Sept Heures, from the time of the day when they are frequented. Less monotonous are the winding paths up the heights overlooking the town. One of the walks near Spa is called the Colline de Luhin et Annette. The story ROUTE 25.—SPA. of these two lovers is not an invention of Marmontel, but a true history of two peasants, cousins, and natives of the neighbourhood of Spa. These two young persons, left together as orphans at a very early age, fell in love with one another, and formed a secret attach- ment, perfectly ignorant that the Rom- ish Church had declared the union of persons so nearly related to be a crime. They persevered in believing their union to be valid; and it is said that the Pope, when he heard their story, gave them a dispensation to legalise their marriage. Their cottage, built for them by an Englishman, stood till the end of the last century, near the road leading to the fountain of the Tonnelets. The Cascade de Coo, on the Ambliol, about 9 m. off, is one of the customary excursions of the visiters at Spa. Another is the ride to Montjardin, an old castle on the top of an escarped rock, still inhabited, and surrounded by gardens. 3'm. to the W. of Remouchamps is a little village on the Ambleve; and overhanging it the scanty ruins of ano- ther old castle, called by country peo- ple les Quatre fils Aymon (after these preux chevaliers of the nursery story- book) : though reduced to a few broken walls, the recollection of the old ro- mance gives an interest to it. It is likewise interesting as the residence of William de la Marck, the Boar of Ardennes, so called for the ferocity of his disposition, which has, however, been somewhat exaggerated by Sir Walter Scott, in the novel of Quentin Durward. He indeed slew the arch- bishop, but not in cold blood and at his own table, but in open fight, with arms in his hands, before the gates of Liege, in 1482. Some subterranean apartments, cut in the rock beneath the castle, are curious. A different road may be taken in returning to Spa, by Adseux, near which a river precipi- tates itself into a natural arch or ca- vern, and thence to Haute Beaumont (or Hodebomont). According to the notions of the peasantry, this and other caves of the country are haunted by188 route 25.—verviers. limburg. Sect. II. spirits; they call them Trous des So- tais. The limestone mountains, which com* pose the chain of Ardennes, abound in natural caverns. One of these is found near Spa, at a place called Remou- champs. It contains some fine stalac- tites ; but the views and descriptions published of it are on the whole ex- aggerated. The distance from Spa to the cave is about 9 miles, over a very stony cross-road, which will be difficult to find without the aid of a guide. It passes the village of La Reid up several steep hills, and across a wild heath, and thence descends into a rugged ra- vine, in which lie the caye and village of Remouchamps. At the little inn of the place the visiter is provided with a blouse to keep his dress clean, with candles, and a guide. The entrance is closed by a door, the keys of which are kept in the village, and it is shown for the benefit of the commune. The path is wet and slippery. The grotto is traversed by a stream which is supposed to be the same as that which buries itself in the ground near Adseaux, and which must pursue a subterranean course of some miles before it arrives at Remouchamps. The rock in which this cave is situated is that called by geologists the mountain limestone. It alternates with clay slate. ' The traveller may proceed at once from the Spa to the Rhine by way of Malmedy (Route 43.), and Treves, and thence descend the Moselle to Coblenz by steam; or he may post from Mal- medy to Prum, and there turning aside explore Eifel and its extinct volcanoes (Route 45.), and descend upon the most beautiful part of the Moselle, near the baths of Bertrich. By the first route it would take about 6 days to reach Coblentz, and by the second about 4 days. In travelling post, it is easy to reach Malmedy from Liege in one day, and Treves in a 2nd day. The borders of the Moselle abound in objects of interest, combining pictu- resque scenery, wonderful geological phenomena, and remarkable Roman remains. In going from Spa to Verviers we are compelled to. retrace our steps as far as Pepinsterre. From Liege to Aix, continued. The valley presents a succession of large cloth factories, alternating with the neat and handsome country houses and gardens of their proprietors. The railway passes through 3 Ensival St. 2 Verviers Stat. The baggage of travellers entering Belgium from Prus sia is examined here, a tedious process, detaining the train one hour or more, and the carriages are changed. The Inns near the station are so bad that it is preferable to repair to those in the town, although I m. off. Verviers (Inns: H. de Flandres :— H. des Pays-Bas : — H. de France), on the Vesdre: its population already ex- ceeds 27,000; an instance of recent and rapid growth, chiefly owing to the flourishing state of its cloth manufac- tories, which are said to produce se- cond-rate fabrics cheaper and better than those of England and France. They employ in and around Verviers 40,000 hands; the cloth is exported to Italy and America, and formerly was consumed in large quantities by Hol- land. The Belgian army is clothed from the looms of Verviers. The water of the Vesdre is said to possess properties which fit it admirably for dyeing. The Railway quits the valley of the Vesdre, after traversing a high em- bankment near (rt.) Dolhain, once a suburb of Limburg, now the town. On an eminence to the rt. above Dolhain, a church tower and some crumbling walls are seen : this is Lim- burg, formerly capital of the duchy of Limburg, now united to the province of Liege. The town, once flourishing and strongly fortified, is reduced nearly to ruin. Its outworks wfere blown up by the French in the time of Louis XIV., and various calamities of war and fire have made it little better than a heap of ruins. Even so late as 1833-4, a fire consumed 40 houses andROUTE 26.—BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. 189 Belgium. a church. The Ch. of St. George, gutted by fire not many years ago, plain within, contains an elegant Gothic ta- bernacle (date 1520), and a monument to a princess of Baden (1672). The view into the valley is pleasing, but there is nothing here worth stopping for. There are mines of zinc and coal in the neighbourhood, and much cheese is made in the district. 8 Dolhain St. Here passengers are sometimes made to alight in order that it may be seen that the carriages contain no small luggage. The Prussian frontier is reached at 7 Herbesthal St., where passports are called for and taken away, and if not vised and returned at once, they must be reclaimed at the Bureau des Passports, at the Aix-la-Chapelle sta- tion ; the baggage is examined at Aix or Cologne. The railroad is carried on a bridge of 17 arches, 120 ft. high in the centre, over the Valley of the Geule; penetrates a tunnel 2220 ft. long, pierced through a sand hill, and finally reaches Aix-la-Chapelle down an inclined plane, up which carriages are drawn by a stationary engine, in coming from Aix. Aix-la-Chapelle Terminus. — Close to (rt.) Borcette. The views of Aix and Borcette from the station are very pleasing. 15 Aix-la-Chapelle—(Route 36.) ROUTE 26. RAILWAY---MECHLIN OR BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY LOUVAIN. Railroad. Brussels to Liege 114 kilometres = 71^ miles. The journey to Liege requires 4 hours. In order to reach Louvain from Brussels by railway, it is necessary to go round by Mechlin. Brussels to Mechlin 20 kilom., 12^ m. See Route 23. Mechlin to Liege 94 kilom., 58jj m. The stations from Mechlin to Lou- vain are — 11 (from Mechlin) Haeght Stat. 2 Wespelaer Stat. Near this is a park and pleasure ground, laid out by a brewer’s widow of Louvain, in the French style, which is the delight of the cockneys of Brussels. The railway crosses the Dyle, and runs by the side of the Antwerp Canal, lined with a treble row of trees before reaching 11 The Louvain station, p. 190. There are 2 post roads from Brussels to Louvain, both the same length, viz., 3J posts, 15| m. a. By CortenbeTg, passing the village of St. Josse te noode (St. Joseph in need), a saint invoked by ladies wbo wish to have a family; near which is the old castle of the Dukes of Ursel, once a residence of the Cardinal Granvilla, now a farm-house; and a little inn or guinguette called het Schapraatje, from which there" is a fine view of Brussels. About 6 m. from Brussels the spire of the village church of Saventhem is seen on the left of the road, from which it is a mile distant. An admirable painting by VandycJt, to which the following story is attached, was restored to the church from the Louvre in 1817. — Vandyck having made great progress under his master, Rubens, was advised by him to go to Italy, and partly furnished by him with means to complete his studies there. He set out with the best intentions of devoting himself entirely to his art, on a white horse given him by Rubens; but had proceeded only thus far on his journey when he unluckily fell in love with a young girl of Saventhem, and there foolishly lost his time and money in pursuit of his passion. To show his devotion to her, and to comply with her request, he painted 2^ pictures for the parish church ; one, a Holy Family* in which he introduced portraits of his mistress and her parents : the other, in which he has represented himself as St. Martin, riding on the white horse given him by Rubens. Tidings of the truant at length reached the ears of his master, who sought him out, represented to him the folly of sacrificing his future pros- pects of fame and success to an obscure amour, and with some difficulty per- suaded him to tear himself away. The villagers have twice risen up to prevent the removal of these cherished works of190 ROUTE 26.-—LOUVAIN. HOTEL DB VILLE. Sect. II. art; first by a Dutch picture-dealer to whom they had been clandestinely sold by the priest, and again by the French; they are both still preserved to the church. Cortenberg. Louvain. b. The other road pisses through Tervueren — {Inns: Le Renard and L’Empereur), post horses are no longer kept here, the railroad having rendered them unnecessary. — Here there is a Summer Palace of the late King of Holland. It was the gift of the nation to him when Prince of Orange, in gratitude for the bravery which he had display ed in the battle of Waterloo. Its extent is not great, and there are no paintings of note in it, but it is very elegantly fitted up, with gardens in the Italian style around it. The Church contains some tombs of the Dukes of Brabant. Outside the walls of Louvain took place the memorable engagement of August, 1831, between the Dutch and the Belgians, in which the latter, com- manded by Leopold in person, ran away and abandoned their king, who narrowly escaped falling into the hands of the Prince of Orange. Louvain Station is outside the town; omnibuses and vigilantes. (§22 A.) The H. de Ville is only hr. walk from it through the Rue de Diest. lj} Louvain. (Flemish Loven, Ger- man Lowen).— Inns ; H. de Suede, Place du Peuple, near to the Station, good and moderate ; dinner in private, 3 fr., and other charges in proportion ; — Cour de Mons; — Sauvage, near the town hall. Louvain on the Dyle, with 24,000 inhab., is a city of very ancient origin : some have attributed its found- ation to Julius Caesar, and the old Castle, of which a small fragment re- mains outside the Mechlin gate, still goes by the name of Chateau de Cesar, though it did not exist till 890, when the Emperor Arnold caused it to be built as a barrier against the invasion of the Bormans. A high earthen ram- part encloses the town on one side, and is cut through by the roads to Brussels and Mechlin. It has a deep dry fosse on the outside, and is from 80 to 100 ft. high. The ruined bastions and case- mates are probably the works of the Spaniards. It is recorded that Edward III. of England lived for one year in the castle, and that the Emp. Charles V. was brought up in it. The citizens used to assert that their town had never been taken, though often besieged. Gene- ral Kleber, however, at the head of the revolutionary forces of France, put an. end to the boast, by making himself master of the place in 1792. The Hdtel de Ville is one of the richest and most beautiful Gothic buildings in the world. Every pajt of the exterior is elaborately decorated by the chisel. It was finished in 1463. It has recently been repaired at the joint expense of the town and government. ■ The deli- cate and rich masonry of the exterior, which had suffered from time and the weather, has been renovated entirely. The decayed stones were removed one by one, and replaced by others, care- fully copied and restored by the sculp- tor Goyers, in a style consistent with the original design,—and at least equal to the ancient workmanship. The sub- jects of the sculptured groups are, for the most part, taken from the Old Testament. The common council has decided that statues (in number about 250) shall be placed in the niches of the 3 facades and the towers. The niches on the ground floor will be reserved for celebrated persons born at Louvain, or who have been domiciled there, and likewise for persons who have rendered eminent services to the town : on the 1st story will be placed figures em- blematical of the ancient institutions of the commune; the Counts of Louvain,' the Dukes of Brabant, and the sove- reigns of the kingdom are to fill the niches of the upper story. All these statues will be the size' of life, and are to be executed in a style in harmony with that of the building. The pictures within the Town Hall are generally of little consequence: a few are curious from their antiquity. The Cathedral of St. Peter, near to the Town-hall, is also well worth seeing.191 Belgium. route 26.—louvain. university. It'was founded in 1040 ; but haying been twice destroyed by fire, the ex- isting building is not older than 1358, “ What is stated to be an original draw- ing of the west front is preserved in the Town Hall, together with a very elabo- rate and beautifully executed model of the same in stone as it was executed, with a singularly lofty tower and spire in the centre, and another on either side of it: only one of the side towers, how- ever, is shown. The drawing is on vellum, 9 fit. high and 2 ft. 9 in. wide, and is coarsely but carefully executed. The model is about 24 feet high, and 7 ft. 6 in. wide at the base. The centre spire, which is said to have been above 500 ft high (an extraordinary elevation, exceeding, by 100 ft., that of the spire of Salisbury Cathedral), was destroyed in 1606 by a storm, and in its fall ruined the side towers. The interior affords an excellent specimen of pointed architecture.” — G. Godwin; F. R. S. A highly decorated Rood-loft, between the choir and nave, is in the richest Flamboyant Gothic of the latter part of the 15th cent. Under the arch which separates the choir from its side'aisle, on the north side of the grand altar, is an elaborate Tabernacle of sculptured stone to contain the host. It is a hex- agon in plan, tapering upwards to. a point, and is about SO ft. high. Here are, among several nameless pictures of the old Flemish school, 2 altar-pieces by Hemling—the Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, a horrible subject, but treated with great propriety by the painter; and the Last Supper, a work of high merit. A Holy Family, by Quentin Matsys, in a side chapel at the back of the high altar, is considered the great ornament of the church t it was carried to Paris during the Revolution. On the shutters are painted the Death of St. Anne, a beautiful'composition, and the Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple. Another picture (artist un- known) represents a cook with bis apron on, chosen bishop, in consequence of tbe miraculous descent of a dove upon his head. In the foreground he appears to refuse the mitre; but behind, preparations are making for his instal- lation. Sir Joshua Reynolds says of it, “ It is a composition of near a.hundred figures, many in good attitudes, natural and well-invented. It is much more interesting to look at the works of these old masters, than slight common-place pictures of many modern painters.” The Pulpit of wood is an admirable specimen of carving, representing St. Peter on a rock, and the Conversion of St. Paul, surmounted by palm trees. The stricken horse and fallen rider are exquisitely executed : the form and ex- pression of both are perfect. .The carved woodwork of the main portals, in the inside, is remarkable as a work of art. “ The font, situated at the W. end of the nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane of iron attached to the wall near it, for the purpose of supporting the cover, now removed. One of the cha- pels on the N. aisle of the nave has a low screen of coloured marbles, exqui- sitely sculptured in the style of Louis XIV.”—G.G. The chapels containing the pictures by Hemling and Matsys are locked; to see them, apply to the custode. The University, suppressed by. the French, was re-established by the King of Holland in 1817. Since 1836 it has once more become the nursing mother of Romish priests for Belgium. There are about 600 students. In the 16th cent, it was considered the first uni- versity in Europe, and being especially distinguished as a school of Roman Catholic theology, it was then fre- quented by 6000 students. There were formerly 43 colleges, variously endowed by pious founders* dependent upon the University: of these only about 20 now remain, and their funds have been much reduced. The Col- leges du Pape, des Philosophes, du St. Esprit, du Faucon, &c., are sumptuous edifices. The Guildhall, or Halle, of the weavers,' erected in .1317, was appro- priated to the service of the University, after its first owners were banished for their refractory conduct. It still ex- hibits traces of the opulence of its founders, being decorated with carv- ings in wood, but is scarcely worth192 BOTJTE 26.—LOUVAIN. TIRLEMONT. ST. TROND. Sect. II. entering if the traveller be pressed for time. Far more interesting is The Cabinet of Paintings, belonging to M. Vandenschrieck, Rue de Paris, No. 86. ; is one of the most select now in the Netherlands as regards native masters. It contains good specimens of Cuyp, van Dyk, v. der Heyden, the Ostades, Rembrandt, Rubens, Ruys- dael, Teniers, the Van de Veldes, Wou- vermans, and of other leaders of the Dutch and Flemish schools: besides some .good works by modern artists. The carved wooden stalls in St. Ger- trude's Church, and the modern paint- ings by the Belgian artists Wappers, Matthieu, and de Keyser, in St. Mi- chael’s, are also deserving mention. The Tower of Jansenius, in which that celebrated theological writer com- posed the works which gave rise to those novel doctrines of grace and free- will, named after their author Jansen- ism, exists no longer. All the sights of Louvain may easily be viewed within a day ; and there is no inducement to remain longer, as the city has a solitary and deserted aspect, the more striking when contrasted with its ancient prosperity and swarming population. Its walls, now in part turned into boulevards, measured 7 m. in circumference, and in the 14th cent., when it was the capital of Brabant and residence of its princes, its inhabitants amounted to 200,000. Nearly half of them lived by the cloth and woollen manufactures established here. The weavers here, however, as elsewhere, were a turbulent race ; and their rulers, being tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 1382, a large number of them from the town, in consequence of a tumult in which they had taken part, and during which they had thrown 17 of the magistrates out of the windows of the Town-house. Many of the exiles took refuge in England, bringing with them their industry and independence; and, very much to the advantage of our country, established in it those woollen manufactures which have left all others in the world far behind. Louvain is famed at present for brewing the best Beer in all Belgium, I 200,000 casks are made here annually : a great deal is exported. It may be tasted at the Maison des Brasseurs, the Brewers’ Guild, a fine mansion, in the Elizabethan style, opposite the H. de Ville. The Railroad from Louvain leaves on the right the Abbey of Parc, still inhabited by Monks, and furnished with 3 fish ponds. 11 Vertryk St. The tunnel of Cumpticli is 984 yds. long. 7 Tirlemont. (Flem. Thienen.) — Inn ; Le Plat d’Etain ; tolerable. A town of 8500 inhab.: formerly much more considerable. The space included within its walk S. of the railway in- cludes, at present, very few houses: the gates are old. In the centre of it is a very extensive square. The Ch. of St. Germain, on a height visible from the railway, is one of the oldest in Bel- gium, built in the 9th cent. It con- tains an altar-piece by Wappers. The massive tower is of the 12th cent.' The Jesuit J. Bollandus, author of the Acta Sanctorum, was born here. Outside the gate leading to Maestricht are 3 large barrows, supposed to be the graves of some barbarian people in very re- mote times. Tirlemont Stat. overlooks the town and post road from an embankment. rt. The Lion on the Field of Water- loo, and the Prussian Monument, are vi- - sible at a great distance. 6 Esemael St. On approaching Landen, the rail- way traverses the plain of Neerwinden, celebrated for 2 great battles : in 1693, when the English under William III. were beaten by Marshal Luxemburgli and the French ; and in 1 793, when the Austrians defeated the Revolutionary army, and drove it out of Belgium. Leau, between Tirlemont and St. Trond, 5 m. to the N. of the railroad, was, in the middle ages, a fortified town, and part of the wall still remains. The Church of St. Leonard contains several Gothic altars, a luminaire (can- dlestick) of brass, 15 ft. high, orna- mented with figures of Saints, and a Tabernacle, sculptured in the style of the Renaissance ( Elizabethan), erectedBelgium, route 27.—Brussels to aix, by maestricht. 193 at the cost of the Seigneur Martin van Wilre, 1558. He is buried in the tomb opposite it. 7 Landen Stat. A branch railway runs hence to St. Trond, and Hasselt, 27 kilom., 16^-m. 3 Gingelom St. 5 Rosoux St. 6 Waremme Stat. (8 m. from Ton- gres, Rte. 27.) Waremme was capital of the district called Hesbaie, lying on the 1. of the Meuse. The old Roman road from Bavay to Tongres is crossed ; it is in good preservation, and is called by the people of the country, the road of Brunehaut (Brunehilde). 11 Fexhe Stat. 8 Ans Stat. is 450 ft. above the level of the Meuse, and the trains de- scend by two inclined planes, about m. long, in 15 min., being drawn up by ropes attached to stationary engines, in 12 min. The view, looking down upon Liege, is most striking. 6 Liege Terminus is on the 1. bank of the Meuse, close to the Quaid’Avroy. The Railway crosses the Meuse by the bridge of Val St. Benoit, of 7 arches. (Route 24.) ROUTE 27. BRUSSELS TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE BY LOUVAIN AND MAESTRICHT. As far as Landen the road is de- scribed in Route 26. ^ Landen to St. Trond Railway, 10 kilom., 6^ m. 5 Velm St. 5 St. Trond.— Inns ; L’Europe : — — Le Sauvage ; tolerable. A town of 9100 inhab., receiving its name from St. Trudon, who founded a monastery here, and gained great fame by the working of miracles. At Brustem, near this, a great battle was fought, in 1467, between Charles the Bold and his rebellious subjects of Li6ge. 3000 of them, who had posted them- selves in the town, were compelled to surrender it to Charles, to destroy the gates and ramparts, and to deliver up to him 10 of their number, whom he cruelly caused to be beheaded. This railway is carried on to Hasselt, 17 kilom., 10$ m. 7 Cortenbosch St. 5 Aiken St. 5 Hasselt St. St. Trond to Aix-la-Chapelle, 5 posts and 4* Germ. m. = about 44 Eng. miles. 2£ Tongres.—Inn ; Paon. A very ancient city, of 6000 inhab. The prin- cipal church was the first dedicated to the Virgin on this side of the Alps. The existing Gothic edifice dates from 1240, but the convent behind was built in the 10th or 11th century, and is the oldest of the kind in the country. The Waremme Station on the Railway is 8 m. from this. ( R. 26.) Near the town, on the estate of Betho, there exists a mineral spring, mentioned by Pliny in these words:— “ Tungri, civitas Gallia:, fontem habet insignem, pluribus bull is stillantem, ferruginei saporis quod ipsum non nisi in fine potus intelligitur. Purgat hie corpora, tertianas febres discutit, calculorumque vitia. Eadem aqua, igne admoto, turbida fit, ac postea rubescit.” It still retains its ancient properties, answering exactly to the description, and is known as the fon- taine de Pline or de JSt. Gilles. The Tungri, according to Tacitus, were the first German tribe, who, crossing the Rhine, expelled the Gauls, and settled themselves in their country. Beyond Tongres the road is bad. 2£ Maestricht. — Inns; Levrier (Greyhound); most comfortable. H. du Casque (Helmet) ; good.—Hof von Holland. Maestricht, the capital of the Dutch portion of the province of Limburg, has 22,000 inhab. It lies on the Maees, and is united by a bridge to the suburb called Wyck. It is one of the strongest fortresses in Europe; its works are very extensive, and partly undermined, with capabilities for laying under water great part of the land around, by open- ing the sluices. Together with Veri- K194 ROUTE 27.—BRUSSELS TO ATK, BY MAESTRICHT. Sect. IX. loo and Roermonde, 'it still belongs to the King of Holland, having . been ceded to him by the treaty of 1831: it is numerously garrisoned by Dutch troops. It was called by the Romans Trajectum superius (the upper ford), or Trajectum ad Mosam. The great strength of this town has subjected its inhabitants to the misery of numerous sieges. Among the most memorable was that of 1579, when the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, took it by assault, at the end of 4 months, after having been repulsed in 9 separate attacks by the garrison, which included a fewEnglish and Scotch soldiers : they were all put to the sword, and nearly 8000 of the townspeople massacred to satisfy Spanish vengeance. It was taken by Louis XIV. ; but William III. of England failed before it. There are few cities in Europe better fortified. There is an arsenal and a military magazine in the town. The Stadhuis, in the centre of the great Market-place, is handsome, in a modern style of architecture (date 1662). The Church of St. Servais is a fine Romanesque edifice, ornamented with 5 towers, and dating probably from the 10th century. It has a splen- did portal, with statues of kings (10th or 11th century), a cloister of the 15th century, and it contains a Descent from the Cross by Vandyck (?). The Ch. of Ndtre Dame rises from Roman sub- structions. The square called Vrythof, in which St. Servais stands, was the place where William de la Marck, nick- named “ le Sanglier des • Ardennes,” was beheaded, 1485. Some pretty Pub- lic Gardens were laid out in 1838. The most remarkable thing about Maestricht are the Subterranean Quar- ries under the hill called the Petersberg, on which the Citadel or Fort St. Pierre stands. The entrance is not quite 3 m. from the Inns, outside St. Peter's gate: the hire of a carriage is 6 fr. ; the fee of a sworn guide 4 fr. Some of the passages are wide enough to admit horses and carts. They cover a space of 4 leagues by 2 s- the number of pas- sages amount to 116,000, 20 to 50 ft. high and 12 broad, and a large part are now rarely explored. They are sup- posed to have been first worked by the Romans. The galleries, running gene- rally at right angles, and lined by many thousand massive pillars, 40 feet square, left by the excavators to support the roof, cross and intersect each other so as to fender it exceedingly difficult to find the way out; and it is dangerous to enter this singular labyrinth without a guide. Many lives have been lost from the want of this precaution; among others, 4 Recollet monks perished in 1640, in attempting to penetrate to a remote spot, where they were desirous of forming a hermitage. They had provided themselves with a olue, which they fastened near the entrance, but the thread on which they depended broke. They died of hunger, and their bodies, though they were diligently sought for, were not found till 7 days after. The only person competent to conduct strangers through the maze are a few experienced labourers who have spent a large portion of their lives in these caverns, and who assist their memory by marks made on the pillars and sides. In time of war the peasantry of the surrounding country have frequently sought refuge in the caves, along with their flocks and herds. The rock is a soft yellowish stone, not unlike chalk, and of the same geological age. It is used for building, but is ill adapted for the purpose, being much affected by the atmosphere; it does not make good lime, but when reduced to sand is very serviceable as manure for the fields. It abounds in marine fossil remains. Be- sides shells and crabs, large turtles are found in it, together with the bones of a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 20 feet long, called the fossil Monitor. Some of these relics of animals which do not now exist on the earth may be seen at Maestricht. The caverns are very cold, but are remarkably free from all moisture, and hence their tempe- rature scarcely ever varies. The walk through the caverns need not take up more than an hour. The view from the summit of the Petersberg is fine. The language spoken in and around Maestricht is an ancient dialect of theBelgium. route 28_________Brussels to namur. 195 German, resembling that of the Nie- belungen-lied. Steamers daily to .Liege, in 4 hours, returning in 2-£ hours (R.24.) : —to Rotterdam, stopping for the night at Venloo. . A Schnellpost daily, in 3£ hours, to Aix-la-Chapelle. A stone bridge across the Meuse leads from Maestricht to the suburb of Wyck. The road then passes several inconsiderable places to . 2\ Wittem, — about a mile beyond Bocbolz is the frontier of Prussia (§ 46, 47.). 2 Aix-la-Chapelle (Route 36.). ROUTE 28. BRUSSELS TO NAMUR BY CHARLEROI :---- RAILWAY. 109 kilometres = 68^ miles. Time 4 hrs. In Rt. 32. this railway is de- scribed as far as 30 Braine le Comte Stat. Here the line to Namur branches off E. from that to Mons (R. 32.), and travellers going to Namur change carriages. 6 Ecaussines St. Here are very fine blue limestone quarries. 9 Manage St. A branch Railway connects this station with Mons, in a di- rect line. (See Route 32.) The canal is crossed. There are coal mines near this. On the 1. lies Seneffe, where the Prince of Orange (William III.), scarce 24, ventured to measure his strength (1674) with the veteran Conde, It ended in a drawn battle, with 27,000 dead left on the field 1 7 Gouy-lez-Pieton St. 3 Pont-a-Celles St. 2 Luttre St. 5 Gosselies St. The Railway cuts through several beds of coal. 3 Roux St. Coalpits and tramways. The most interesting portion of the route lies between 3 Marchiepnes-au-Pont (Stat.) and Charleroi; the country being pictu- resque, and enlivened by manufactories, chimneys, iron-works, coal-mines, and villages. The Brussels and Charleroi, canal runs parallel with the railway, and enters the Sambre, which it joins to the Schelde, 2 m. above Charleroi. The Railway crosses the Sambre 14 or 16 times before reaching Namur. 4 Charleroi Stat. Inns : Pays- Bas, small, but good; — Grand , Mo- narque ;—1’Uni vers. Charleroi is a fortress on the Sambre, originally founded by Charles II. of Spain, and named after him; its works were razed 1795, and restored 1816, under the di- rection of the Duke of Wellington. It is also a manufacturing town, and. has 6150 inhab. About 6000 nail-makers ply their trade in and about the town, and there are said to be 70 high fur- naces, 50 iron founderies, and 90 coal- pits in the vicinity. There are extensive iron furnaces at CouHers, near. this. The surrounding district abounds in coal; 8345 miners and 118 steam en- gines are employed in the colleries. ' From Charleroi ; to Namur the railway descends the beautiful val- ley of the Sam- bre,. through. a very picturesque country. 5 Floreffe St. The village, of 1500 inhab., stands on the rt, bank of the Sambre. On a commanding height above rises the picturesque Abbey of Floreffe, founded by Godfrey Count of Namur, 1121. It is now a seminary for priests. • The cloisters and hall of the Counts of Namur are worth notice. On the 1., in a woody gorge, lies the Abbey of Majonne, and further on the 1. the new ch. of Beausse. 9 Namur St., outside the Porte de Fer, which leads to Louvain (Rte. 24.). 7 Chatelineau St. Iron-works. 3 Farciennes St. 5 Famines St. 2 Auvelais St. 6 Moustier St. ROUTE 28 a. CHARLEROI TO MORIALME :-RAILWAY. A railway, called “ Chemin de Fer de l’entre-Sambre-et-Meuse,” turns off196 RTE. 29.—NAMUR TO LUXEMBURG AND TREVES. Sect. II. from the Brussels and Namur railway between Charleroi and Marchiennes- au-Pont. It passes through the richest mineral district in Belgium, and has a great traffic in coal, coke, iron,, and zinc ore. When completed, it will con- nect the valley of the Sambre, at Char- leroi, with that of the Meuse a few miles above Givet, and also at Charle- ville and Mezieres. A portion—from Charleroi to Morialme (34^ kilometres =21| Eng. rn. in length), with a branch to Laneffe (6^ kilometres=4 Eng. m. nearly in length), was opened on 30th Nov. 1848. The stations, with their distances from Charleroi in kilometres, are as follows: — 2A La Sambre St. (Marchiennes.) 7-J Bomeree St. ISA Hameau St. 18 J Berz^e St. (Here a branch Hallway turns off by 2 Thy-le-Chateau St. to -4^ Laneffe St.) 21 x Walcourt St. 29§ Fraire St. On the high road between Charleroi and Philippeville a diligence runs twice a day, each way, between this station and Philippeville, in connexion with the trains. 34^ Morialme St. ROUTE 29. NAMUR TO LUXEMBURG AND TREVES. 23^ posts 'and 2 Prussian miles = 12l£ Eng. miles. Diligence every day, in about 20 hours. An excellent road, completed by the Dutch only 2 years before the Revo- lution of 1830. li Vivier l’Agneau. li Emptinnes. 2j La Marche. —Inn, Cloche d’Or ; intolerable. A pretty town, capital of the Famenne, a fertile corn district, named after its ancient inhabitants, the Phcemanni, mentioned by Caesar; 8 m. S. W. is Rochefort (p. 200.), once a strong fortress, where Lafayette was made prisoner by the Austrians, 1792. • The first stage out of La Marche, passing through the forest of St. Hu- bert, is very pretty indeed. This is Shakspeare’s “ Forest of Arden ; ” and so well does the reality agree with his description of its woodland scenery, that the traveller might almost expect to meet the “banished duke” holding his sylvan court under the greenwood tree, or to surprise the pensive Jaques medi- tating by the side of the running brook. 2£ Champion, a solitary post-house. A few miles beyond Champion the in- fant Our the is crossed. 3 Bastogne has no regular inn. There is a curious old church here. 2058 inhab. There is a road hence to St. Hubert (p. 200.), through Orten- ville, where is a comfortable auberge; and another to Liege through Houffa- lize (haut falaise), on the edge of steep cliffs overhanging the Ourthe, sur- mounted by a ruined castle destroyed by Marshal Boufflers. (/#», H. des Ardennes.) 2\ Martelange. 2^ Avion.—(Inn, H. du Nord: clean and comfortable sleeping quarters) — a rapidly increasing town, of 5000 inhab.: supposed to be the Roman Orolanum. A road strikes off from Arlon to Metz, which is the nearest way from London to Strasburg. (See Handbook for France.) By the recent partition of the Duchy of Luxemburg, in confor- mity with the Treaty of 1831, two- thirds of it have fallen to the share of King Leopold, and Arlon is become the capital of the Belgian part of the province. A diligence runs from Arlon down the picturesque valley of the Semoi to Florenville. (Inn, H. du Commerce.) Diligence to Metz daily. The Dutch frontier commences at Steinfurth. From Arlon to the fron- tier, German is the language of the in- habitants. 3^ Luxemburg. — Inn, H. de Co- logne ; the best, but not clean. The situation of Luxemburg is very singu- lar; and the extent and extraordinary character of its fortificat:ons combine to make it highly picturesque. The traveller from the side of Brussels comes upon it unawares, so completely is it wedged in between high escarped rocksBelgium. ROUTE 30.—THE MEUSE. DIN ANT. 197 on 'the margin of the Alzette. On entering from the German side, it is difficult to comprehend how these are to be surmounted, or the drawbridges reached, which appear to hang sus- pended in the air. The communication between the upper and lower towns is by flights of steps, and by streets car- ried up in zigzags, so as to be passable for a carriage. The defences, partly excavated in the solid rock, have been increased and improved by the succes- sive possessors of Luxemburg, by the Spaniards (1697), Austrians (1713), French (1684 and 1795), and Dutch, rendering it, in the words of Carnot, “ la plus forte place de l’Europe apres Gibraltar : —le seul point d’appui pour attaquer la France du cote de la Mo- selle.” It is now one of the fortresses of the German Confederation; and is garrisoned by 2000 Prussians. Under the direction of the German Diet it has been entirely repaired and greatly strengthened since 1830, and a new fort has been built outside the gate to Treves. The most remarkable part of the for- tifications is that called Le Bouc, a pro- jecting headland of rock, commanding the valley up and down ; its casemates, entirely excavated in the solid rock, are capable of holding 4000 men, and re- semble those of Gibraltar. The com- mandant will sometimes give strangers admission. The Grand Duchy, of which Lux- emburg is the chief town,' was given to the King of Holland, at the Treaty of Vienna (1815), in consideration of his abandoning his claim upon Nassau. The house of Luxemburg is highly dis- tinguished in history; it gave 5 em- perors to Germany, kings to Bohemia, Poland, and Hungary, several queens to France, and numerous exalted pre- lates to the church. John the Blind, King of Bohemia, killed by the English at the Battle of Cressy, from whom our Prince of Wales gains his motto (Ich dien), was buried here; but his body was removed at the Revolution to Mett- lach, in Prussia. Luxemburg contains 12,000 inhabitants. The G otliic Church of St. Peter was built 1120, but is not remarkable. Diligence* daily to Remich and Metz, and to Treves in 6 hours. The post- master at Luxemburg charges 35 sous for each horse per post, and has the right of attaching a third horse: the first stage is hilly ; the road good. 3^ Grevenmachern. The road here reaches the Moselle, and is macadam- ised : it proceeds along its left bank through charming scenery to Treves. The Prussian frontier is crossed at the bridge over the Sure, close to which is the custom-house. (§ 47.) 6 m. above Treves the road passes the very remarkable Roman monument of Igel, described in Rte. 41. The vil- lage stands opposite to the junction of the Saar (Savarus) with the Moselle. Conz, a village near its mouth, derives its name from the Emperor Ccmstantiue, who had a summer palace here, traces of which still exist in the foundations of brick walls, towers, &c. The Roman bridge over the Saar was blown up by the French, 1675. 2 Treves, Rte. 41. ROUTE 30. THE MEUSE. NAMUR TO DINANT AND GIVKT. 5\ posts = 27^ English m. Diligences daily; a good post road. A steamer descends from Dinant to Namur every morning, in 3 hours, in time for the morning train to Brussels ; it returns-to Dinant in the afternoon. The Meuse above Namur is not less interesting, though less visited, than be- low it. For a considerable distance the river is hemmed in by magnificent es- carpments of limestone, resembling in height and form the banks of the Avon at Clifton, and the vales of Derbyshire. The cultivation of the graceful hop here supplants that of the vine. The road ascends the 1. bank as jar as Dinant, where it crosses the river by a stone bridge. About 4 miles below Dinant, at I voir, on the rt. bank, is an intermit- tent spring, rising and sinking regularly every 7 minutes. Several villas and pretty chateaux are passed. Between x 3198 ROUTE 30.—THE MEUSE. DIN ANT. Sect. n. 2 and S miles below Dinant, on the rt. bank, rises the Castle of Poilvache, once “ la terreur des Dinantois,” now in ruins, of great extent and finely situ- ated. It was taken and destroyed by Bp. Jean de Heynsberg, 1429. ... Upon the top of a rock, ^ m. below Dinant, stands the ruined castle of Bou- vignes. During the siege of this place by the French under the Due de Nevers (1554) 3 beautiful women retired with their husbands into the tower of Creve- coeur, hoping to assist and encourage the garrison by their presence. The defence was obstinate, but at last all were slain but the 3 heroines, who, un- willing to submit to the brutality of the conquerors, threw themselves from the top of the tower, in sight of the French, and were dashed to pieces on tbe rocks. Dinant. — Inn, Post, best: a town of 5650 inhab., romantically situated at the base of limestone cliffs, to which the fortifications and the chapel on their summit add interest. There are caverns in the contorted convolutions of thelime- stone strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, render the summit ofthe cliffs above the town accessible to its inhabitants, but there is little or no view from the heights. Permission to enter the cita- del is given by the commandant. The Church is distinguished by a singular bulb-shaped steeple, its interior is in- teresting, and part of the building is very ancient. The door of the bap- tistery, and another which is blocked up, are of the 10th or 11th centy____T. The inhabitants of Bouvigne were rivals of those of Dinant in the manu- facture of copper kettles (called from the place dinanderies), and the ani- mosity thus created led to bloody and long-continued feuds betweenthem. In defiance of their neighbours, the men of Bouvigne built the castle of Crevecceur; and those of Dinant, to annoy them in return, erected which they were to destroy. Philip the Good, irritated by some act of aggression, besieged Dinant with an army of 80,000 men. The inhabi- tants, when summoned to surrender, that of Montorgueil, afterwards compelled replied by hanging the messengers sent with the proposals. The Duke, en- raged at this outrage, was preparing to take tbe town by assault when it sur- rendered. He gave it up to pillage for 3- days, and then set fire to it; and, while the flames were still raging, or- dered 800 of the inhabitants, bound two and two, to be thvown into the Meuse. Though weak from illness, he was car- ried in a litter to a spot whence he could feast his eyes on the conflagration and horrible execution; and not satisfied with this act of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull down the ruined walls remaining after the fire, that not a ves- tige of Dinant might survive. His son, Charles the Bold, who succeeded 8 years after, allowed the town to be re- built ; but it was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, in 1554, oy the French under the Due de Nevers,—- a misfor- tune occasioned principally by the inso- lence of the townspeople, in replying to the summons to surrender by a message to the effect, that if the Duke and the King of France fell into their hands they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. The excursion from Dinant to the grotto of Han sur Lesse is described in the following Route (31.). About ^ a mile above Dinant the road goes through a kind of natural portal, formed by the abrupt termin- ation of a long narrow ridge or wall of rock, projecting from the precipitous cliffs on the left, and on the right by a pointed and bold isolated mass of rock, called the Roche a Bayard. The cleft was widened by order of Louis XIV., to facilitate the passage of the road up the valley. Near this are quarries of black marble, and immediately above lies Anseremme, a pretty town with overhanging cliffs. The road afterwards begins to ascend. The finest point on the route is about 3 m. above Dinant, at the Chateau of Freyr, a country seat belonging to the Duchesse de Beaufort, on the left bank of the river, at the base of cliffs and richly-wooded hills, which are furrowed by ravines. Within the grounds is a natural grotto, abounding in stalactites,Belgium. route 31.—the ardennes. 1 199 and singularly lighted by an aperture in the rock. Opposite to Freyr the cliffs of limestone rise directly from the Meuse, much subdivided and broken up, presenting striking forms and out- lines ; sometimes jutting out in ledges more or less connected with the mass of the cliff, at other times separated into isolated fragments ; and occasion- ally the upper part of the range projects beyond the perpendicular, so as com- pletely to overhang the river. The banks present lofty cliffs, and romantic scenery as far as Flamignoul. At Heer a quarry of red marble is passed. The view of Givet from the top of the hill, surmounted by the road in approaching it, is very picturesque; the fortifications and windings of the river appear to great advantage. — T. T. 2£ Givet. — Inns : Le Cygne ; Le Mont d’Haurs______- Givet and Charle- mont may be regarded as parts of one town, prettily situated on opposite banks of the Meuse, but connected by a bridge. They belong to France, lying just within the frontier : the po- pulation is 4000: the fortifications were constructed by Vauban. The fortress of Charlemont (on the left bank) is placed on a high and commanding rock of limestone, which is sometimes of so fine a texture as to be quarried for marble. (See Handbook for France.) The grotto of Han sur Lesse may be visited from Givet, travelling over cross roads. ROUTE SI. THE ARDENNES.-----"DINANT TO HANS SUR LESSE, ST. HUBERT, AND BOUILLON. “ The characteristic feature of the Ardennes is wildness; heathy and rocky hills, with dark rapid streanis winding round them; vast forests of oak stretch- ing over the plains, and crowning the hills, peopled with deer, wild boars, and wolves ; villages at long intervals, dirty and poor ; cottages thinly scattered among the valleys, and castles frowning from rocky heights, embosomed in woods.”— C. One may live well on the fine mutton fed on the heathery hills, on wild boar and tame pig, fed on aoorns of the forest. Venison, hare, and other game are common fare. The rivers afford small trout and grayling, on which the angler may exercise his skill, and craw- fish : nowhere is richer milk or more delicious honey. A very good road, traversed thrice a- week by a diligence, but not as yet pror vided with post-horses, though horses may be obtained by writing on before^ hand, has been formed from Dinant to Neufchateau, passing through the midst of the Ardennes forest, and within 5 or 6 miles of the Trou de Han. “ The Inns are wretched, mere village cabarets; the country for the most part open, wild, and uncultivated; with some good wood scenery. The line is carried through Celles, Ardenne, a villa (or hunting-seat) of King Leopold, situated on the slope of a charming valley, the natural beauties of which have been enhanced by the taste of its royal owners.”—C. Beyond Almars, at Avenaye, travellers turn aside if they intend to visit the Trou de Han:; thence the vile cross-road touches Lorn* pretz, and Nieupont (Madame Randol- let’s inn), about 16 m. from Dinant; the river Lesse abounds with trout and grayling between Sechery and Nieu- pont. Through Neufchateau the road reaches Arlon. The cavern called Trou de Han is about 20 m. (8 post leagues) S. E. from Dinant. The valley oftheLesse is stopped up by a rocky barrier stretching across it, but the river precipitates itself into the cavern at the foot of this rock, called le Gouffre de Belvaux, and forces a passage through it. The distance from the entrance to the spot where the river quits the cavern is about 12 m. The cavern is accessible through the natural arch out of which the Lesse issues, in a boat kept by a man residing hard by, who serves as a guide, and provides torches. It consists of a series of cham- bers opening into one another_______some high, others low, some shaped like a syphon upright or inverted ; in places it contains some fine stalactites. The first hall or chamber is lighted by the reflection cast from the surface of the e 4200 ROUTE 31.—ST. HUBERT. BOUILLON. Sect. II. water up to the roof. The effect is very brilliant at 8 or 9 o’clock in the morn- ing, when the sun is opposite to the entrance. It takes about 2 hours to explore the cave: there is a poor ca- baret near it. From Nieupont the distance is about 12 m., by a cross road, through Hans sur Lesse, to Rochefort (Inn, l’Etoile, a neat homely inn, and good cuisine; charges for bed, dinner, and supper, only 3 fr.), on the Homme, surmounted by an old castle, commanding a fine view. The scenery of the valley of l’Homme above this is'very fine, es- pecially near Grupont, where the castle of Mirwart, one of the best preserved feudal strongholds in Belgium, which belonged once to the de la Marcks, is a striking object. Mirwart is about 6 m. from St. Hubert. A cross-road leads from Han sur L., by Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a distance of 12 or 15 miles, to St. Hubert (Inn, H. des Pays-Bas), a miserable little town of 1842 inhab., occupying a clearance in the midst of the forest of St. Hubert, which has a circumference of 40 m. The Abbey Church is a fine Gothic edifice inter- nally, adorned with precious marbles, and contrasting strangely with the humble buildings about it. The W. front with the 2 towers are Italian. Its founder, St. Hubert, the patron of hunters and sportsmen, was originally a dissolute prince, who, among other profane acts, was guilty of that of hunting on Sundays. He even did not hold sacred the holy festival of Good Friday; but, while engaged in his fa- vourite diversion on that day, a stag suddenly presented itself to him, bear- ing a cross growing between its horns. The apparition, which he believed to be miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, recalled him from his evil mode of life. Renouncing equally his vices and his pleasures, he passed the rest of his days in penance and prayer; and, devoting his fortune to the church, acquired such a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, not merely by his hands, but by his gar- ments ; so that even a shred of his mantle possessed virtue enough to cure hydrophobia, if placed on the patient’s head 1 The body of St. Hubert was deposited in the abbey, 825, but is sup- posed to have been burnt in the confla- gration caused by the Frerich Calvinists, who set fire to both church and monas- tery, 1568. In ancient times, the abbot of St. Hubert paid an annual tribute of 3 couple of hounds to the King of France, to be allowed to collect contri- bution for the monastery in his king- dom. There are cross-roads from St. Hu- bert to Chamolon and Marche; post stations on the high road from Namur to Luxemburg (Route 29.), to Bouillon, and by Neufchateau to Arlon, on the way to Luxemburg. A good road has been constructed from Dinant to Beauraing, and is about to be continued (it is said) to Bouillon : the entire distance is calculated at 8 posts, about 40 miles. Bouii.lok, once capital of the duchy of the same name, was pawned by Godfrey of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to raise funds for the First Crusade. In after times the bishops refused to allow it to be redeemed, which gave rise to a long series of feuds and fights between them and Godfrey’s descendants, so that the ter- ritory of Bouillon became truly debate- able ground. At length Louis XIV. directed Marechal Crequi to take pos- session of the town, “ not,” says his published declaration, “ for the purpose of prejudicing the Bishops of Liege, but for the protection of France, which is not sufficiently fortified in that quarter.” Louis, having thus realised the fable of the Oyster, protested, before the Congress of Nimwegen, that he was prepared to resign the province as soon as the umpires had decided to which of the contending parties it ought to belong. The dispute, however, was never settled, and the House of La Tour d’Auvergne assumed the sove- reignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, with the consent of Louis (1696). The town was ceded to the Netherlands by the treaty of Vienna. Bouillon is a town of 2500 inhab.: it is situated in a deep ravine, and surrounded by hills.ROUTE 32.—HAL. MONS 201 Belgium. The extensive Castle of Bouillon, re- paired and restored since 1827, and converted into a military'prison, oc- cupies the summit of a rock elevated high above the town, and washed by the river Semoi. No part of the ori- ginal castle remains except, perhaps, the dungeons hewn out of the rock. ROUTE 32. BRUSSELS TO MONS AND VALENCIENNES BY HAL---ON THE WAY TO PARIS---- RAILWAY. 93 kilometres — 58^ miles. Terminus at Brussels, Station du Midi, near the S. Boulevard. On quitting the station, the Boule- vard is crossed, the Porte de Hal is seen on the 1., and the river Senne is passed near Foret. Good view of Bruxelles. 6 Ruysbroeck St. The railway runs side by side with the Canal de Charleroi, whose bed is in some places higher than it. There are many cuttings on this line. 3 Loth St. 5 Hal Stat. (/wn; H. des Pays-Bas.) Hal is a town of 5000 inhab. on the Senne and the Canal de Charleroi. The Church of St. Martin, a pure Gothic edifice, contains a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on account of a miracle-work- ing image of the Virgin, of wood, 2 ft. high, which has acquired enormous wealth from the offerings of pious de- votees, including gold plate given by Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Ju- lius II., &c. In a side chapel, near one of the doors, railed off, are 33 cannon balls, which, having been aimed at the church during the bombardment, were caught by the Virgin in her robe spread over the town to protect it! The High Altar of this church is unequalled in the Netherlands. It is of marble, in the best style of the renaissance, sculp- tured apparently by Italian artists. Below is the depository for the Host: on the next stage is St. Martin dividing his cloak: the 2 lower rows of bas- reliefs represent the 7 Sacraments, ad- mirable as works of art; the whole is surmounted by the pelican. In the octagon baptistery attached to the ch. is the gorgeous font of brass, covered by a spire studded with sta- tuettes and groups in high-relief, of the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. It was cast at Tournay, 1467, by an artist named Lefebvre. 5 Tubise St. A tunnel precedes 11 Braine le Compte Stat. A town of 4400 inhab., named after Count Baldwin, who bought it from the monks of St. Waudru, at Mons, 1158. The district around furnishes some of the finest flax which is anywhere produced : it is employed in the manu- facture of Brussels lace. A few miles to the N.W. is Steenkerke, where Wil- liam III. was defeated by the Duke of Luxemburg, in 1692, with a loss of 7000 men. A railway is carried hence to Charle- roi and Namur, 38£ m. (R. 28.) 6 Soignies St. This town, of 6500 inhab., has a Ch. of St. Vincent, and a convent (perhaps the oldest in Bel- gium) founded in the 7th cent. There are tombstones of the 13th and 14th centuries in its churchyard. Soignies has given its name to the vast forest which reaches to Waterloo. The rail- way makes an abrupt bend W. to reach 13 Jurbize St. About 5 m. W. lies Belceil (Rte. 15.). Here a railway branches off to Ath and Tournay. (See Rte. 15.) To reach the Mons Station, the fortifications are cut through to admit the passage of the railway. 12 Mons. (Bergen in Germ, and Flemish.) — Inns: Couronne, best: — Aigle Noir, good. Mons, the capital of the province of Hainault (German, Hennegau ; Flemish, Hennegouw), is a fortified town, owing its origin to a castle built here by Julius Caesar during his campaign against the Gauls. It contains 23,500 inhab. The forti- fications were razed by the Empr. Jo- seph II., but have been renewed and strengthened since 1818. The facilities for laying the country round the town completely under water, by admitting the river Trouille, add greatly to its defensive capabilities. The east side x 5ROUTE' 32.—JEMAPPES. ST. GHISLAIN. Sect. TT. 202 is protected by tiro large ponds or lakes. Mons derives great advantages from the numerous and productive Coal Mines by which it is surrounded ; a great many steam-engines are employed to pump up the water and extract the coal, which is exported in large quan- tities to Paris, by the long line of inland navigation connecting these mines with the French metropolis. In 1840,26,000 persons were employed in 376 coal-pits of the'coal-field of Mons. There are also in the neighbourhood extensive bleaching grounds. The principal builds ings are the Church of St. Waudru ( Wal- trudis), a handsome Gothic edifice, begun in 1460* but not completed till 1580.' The interior is well worth no- tice ; the elegant and lofty reeded piers without capitals send forth a network of ribs over the roof. The high altar is decorated with curious marble bas- reliefs from the New Testament, cut by an Italian artist, 1556, which were sadly mutilated at the French revolu- tion. Here is also a curious Tabernacle. The Castle, a high tower or beffroi, was built in 1662, on the site of Caesar’s Castrum, as is reported. The Gothic Town HaU was built in 1440; the tower is a later addition, and the whole ranks far below other municipal edi- fices of Belgium. Mons was the native place of Or- lando Lassus, the celebrated musician of the 16th century. A communica- tion is opened between Mons and the Schelde by the Canal de Conde ; a new branch, called Canal d’A-ntoing, has been cut to avoid the French territory altogether, and to enter the Schelde lower down, at a point where both banks of that river belong to Belgium. About 10 m. S. from Mons, within the French frontier, was fought the bloody battle of Malplaquet, 1709, where the Duke Of Marlborough and Prince Eu- gene beat -the French, though with a loss of 20,000 men. A branch railway forms a direct communication between Mons and Ma- nage, on the Brussels and Charleroi railway, avoiding the detour to Braine le Comte. Its length is 24| kilometres, or 15j Eng. miles nearly. The stations are 9| kilom. Havre Stat. 9 J La Louviere Stat. Here a branch turns off on the right to Bascoup. Its length is 8 kilom., or 5 Eng. miles. 5£ Manage Stat. (See Rte. 28.) The Railway, on quitting Mons, crosses the river Trouille, and runs not very far from the Canal de Conde, and the sluices of St. Ghislain, by means of which the whole country around might be inundated. 4 Jemappes St. This village is celebrated for the victory gained by the French, under Gen. Dumouriez, and the Duke de Chartres, late King Louis- Philippe, 6th Nov. 1792, over the Austrians. Three coal-pits were filled with dead bodies of men and horses after the battle. The result- of this victory was to make the French mas- ters of Belgium. A stone has been set up close to the post-road to mark the scene of the battle. 5 Saint-Ghislain St. Near this is a populous and increasing colony, al- ready numbering 375Q inhab., though of recent origin, having been esta- blished by the late M. Legrand. It is composed principally of miners and iron-forgers, who are maintained by the mines of coal and iron here. Steam- engines are manufactured to a con- siderable extent here. The'village is built with straight streets on a uniform plan, the houses being of the same height. This country resembles much the neighbourhood of Manchester and Bolton : the roads are black with coal- dust, which in windy weather begrimes the face and garments of the traveller, and the dwellings partake of the same hue. Every cottage seems as populous as a hive. 2 Boussu St. 4 Thulin St.' 4 Quievrain is the station of the Belgian eustom-house. About £ a mile further on, the small river Aunelle marks the boundary of France. Blanc Misseron St. l£ Valenciennes (Rte. 15.). For the railway hence to Paris, see Hand* I book for Travellers in France.Germany. 28. passports and police regulations. 203 SECTION III. GERMANY. 28. Passports.—29. Inns and. Expenses.—30. Beds. —31. Valets-de-Place, —r S2. Custom-House League, Zoll-Verein. — 33. Distances, Travelling Maps. — 34. Modes of Travelling, Posting, Laufzettel. — 35, Diligences, or Eilwagen. — 36. Voiturier, or Lohnkutscher. — 37. Railroads. — 38. Baggage. — 39. Succinct Account of Germany. —• 40. Some Peculiarities of German Manners, Titles, Salutations, Recreations, Public Gardens, Kirmes, The Turnpikemen, Travelling Journeymen. — 41. Music.—42. German Watering Places.—43. German Towns, Firewatch, Woodcutters.—44. Clubs.—45. Burial Grounds. fN. B. — The information contained in this Section is of a general character and applicable to the whole of Germany. The details peculiar to different states of Germany will be found respectively under the Heads — Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, Austria, &c?] 28. PASSPORTS AND POLICE REGULATIONS. The strictness of passport regulations is much relaxed in Germany within the last 8 or 10 years, yet no one can travel without a passport, properly counter- signed. On entering a frontier town of Prussia, or any other state of Germany, and in most of the large towns of Austria and Bavaria, the traveller is requested at the gate to produce his passport. If it be a town of some importance, and he intend to sleep there, in all probability the passport must be forwarded to the Police-bureau to be examined and countersigned (visirt), in which case he will receive in exchange a ticket or receipt (schein), enabling him to get his passport back: in minor towns this proceeding may not be necessary, and the passport is merely detained 2 or 3 minutes, till the name be registered, and is then returned to the owner. It generally happens, however, that the traveller is requested to name the inn at which he proposes to take up his residence, in order that the passport may be sent after him : he is glad to avoid unnecessary delay, and the gate-keeper to have an opportunity of receiving a gratuity for his trouble, in taking the passport to the inn. As matters of this sort are totally foreign to English habits, and it is to travellers of this nation that the Hand-book is addressed, we shall dwell on a few particulars, which may be new to them, and useful to know. “ All innkeepers are compelled to submit to the inspection of the police the daily arrivals and departure of their guests; and not merely the name, surname, and country, but frequently the age, condition, whether marrried or single, pro- fession, religion, motives for travelling, and other particulars, are required. A book (called das Fremden Buch, Strangers’ Book), ruled into columns, and methodically classed, is presented to the traveller for him to fill up.”— S.204 28. POLICE REGULATIONS. 29. INNS. Sect. III. Before he has remained 2 days in the place (the period of time is different in different countries), he is required, under penalty of a fine, to send, or take in person to the Police Office (Polizei Direction) the ticket which he received at the gate; and if he intends remaining any time on the spot, he will, upon showing it, receive a permission of residence (A ufenthalts shein—permission de sejour), for a certain period, at the expiration of which it will be renewed, if required. When he has made up his mind to quit the place, his passport will be returned to him. It must then be vise : first, by the Police ; next by his own minister (if there be any resident English minister) ; and lastly, by the Ambassa- dors of the countries to which he is going, and through which he may pass. The arrangement of the passport should be attended to a day or two before the tra- veller’s departure, as the necessary signatures are often not to be got in a single day. As a general rule, never pass out of one state into another without having the signature of the minister of the state you are about to enter upon your passport. On leaving a great capital to pass through the dominions of several sovereigns, the passport should be signed by the ministers of all these sovereigns resident at the capital. %* Attention to the passport is particularly necessary when the traveller intends to enter Italy, or any part of the Austrian dominions. It connot be too often repeated, to impress it on the traveller’s mind, that without the SIGNATURE OF SOME AUSTRIAN AMBASSADOR, OR MINISTER, NO ONE IS EVER ALLOWED, ON ANY CONDITION, TO CROSS THE AUSTRIAN FRONTIER. The instances of delay, vexation, and trouble which annually occur to persons who, from igno- rance of this, proceed to the frontier, and are there stopped, are innumerable. 29. INNS. Great care has been taken in this work to furnish the traveller with the names of the best inns throughout Germany and the north of Europe, derived princi- pally from personal experience, or that of friends, and trusting as little as possible to the usual recommendations of Guide Books, unless they were ascertained to be well founded. As it is the first information which a traveller requires on reaching a place, the names of the inns in all instances stand first. German Innkeepers are, on the whole, of a higher class, and hold a superior position in their respective towns, to that occupied by persons of a similar calling in England. In N. Germany they are often men of considerable wealth and well connected. They usually preside at their own tables-d’hote, entering familiarly into conversation with their guests. It is rarely necessary to make a bargain beforehand with a German landlord, a precaution almost indispensable in Holland, Italy, and Switzerland. When, however, a traveller intends to take up his residence for several weeks, or even 6 or 8 days, in a hotel, it is a good plan, as well as customary, to come to an agreement with the landlord, who, under these circumstances, is usually willing to make an abatement of one-third from his usual charges. It is also a common practice to purchase a dozen or twenty tickets for the table-d’hote, which, when taken in such a number, are charged at a lower rate. The apart- ments are classed as to price, according to the stories on which they are situated, the size and the look-out — the highest and those turned to the back being least expensive.205 Germany. 29. expenses at inns; tables d’hote. Average charges of Inns in Northern Germany In Prussia. Dollars. Silver-gros. Bed-rooms, varying "| according to size i- from 1 to 10 or 12 = and situation - - J Dinner at table-d’hote - - 15 to 20 = -------in private room from 1 to 1 10= Tea or coffee, a portion for one 5 or 6 = Breakfast a la fourchette - - - 15 = Half a bottle of wine - - - 5 = ) Fankfort, "" ' Nassau, Baden, &c. from 1 f. 12 kr. to 36 kr. If. to 1 f. 48 kr. 1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 20 kr. 24 kr. to 30 kr. 36 kr. to 48 kr. 18 kr. These prices do not apply to Austria and Southern Germany. For those countries refer to Handbook for South Germant. Average expenses of living for a party of 6, not including wine, in Nassau, Wiirteinberg, and Baden :— Breakfast not less than - 4 florins' Dinner at table-d’hote rarely less than 1 fl. ; often \ 1 fl. 15 kr. or 1 fl. 20 kr. - - J ” Tea or coffee - - - - - 3 „ Beds - - - - - - 6 „ 19 florins. This is a very moderate calculation, and the sum will be exceeded if the travellers indulge in a private saloon. “ Persons who travel for pleasure must expect to pay liberally, and any attempt on their part to make close bargains will generally fail: there is a sort of ordinary charge, which the traveller soon finds out, and, with common tact and judgment, he may magage to visit most parts of the Continent without being entangled in annoying squabbles; but should a bill contain items of an unrea- sonably high price, instead of pointing them out to the waiter, and clamorously insisting on an immediate reduction, he should go himself to the master’s room, and speak to him when no servants are by: a remonstrance founded on reason, and politely made, will then generally have its effect: this mode cannot be too strongly recommended.” [5.] Travellers intending to set out early in the morning, should cause their bills to be made out and delivered to them over night, that they may examine the items at leisure; but they should not pay them until the moment of starting. It is indispensable to prevent fraud, to examine inn-bills, and to understand them before paying them ; he who neglects this offers a premium to dishonesty, and will scarcely escape being cheated. Servants in German inns can exact no fee; the head waiter (Oberkellner) usually receives 5 silver groschen, or 18 kr. per diem ; the boots (Hausknecht), silver groschen. The English have introduced this custom of feeing servants into continental inns, and something more is expected of them, especially as they often give much more trouble to the servants than the natives. “ The English are often accused of meanness to the servants at hotels. This frequently arises, not from want of generosity on their part, but from the rascality of couriers, or of the servants themselves, in appropriating the fees meant for the establishment- The best way to obviate this would be for the innkeepers to make a specific charge; or, failing in this, the traveller should write down on the bill the sum which he allots for the servants.” Tables-(TH6te. — The usual hour for dining is 1 o’clock ; in the North of Germany it is as late as 2 or 3; in the South it is even as early as 12. The table-d’hote is frequented by both ladies and gentlemen, and especially at the Watering-places, by persons of the highest ranks, from Grand Dukes and Princes, downwards. The stranger will find much more general urbanity than in a similarly mixed assemblage in England; the topics and news of the day are206 29. INNS. 30. GERMAN BEDS. Sect. in. discussed without restraint; and if the traveller be anxious to gain general or local information, he will frequently succeed at the table-d’hote; and should his visit to a town or place be somewhat rapid, perhaps he will have no other source to go to. - • Added to this, the best dinner is always to be had at the table-d’hote. It answers the landlord’s purpose to provide sumptuously, en groa, for a large company, and he therefore discourages dining in private. They who prefer taking their meals alone at- a lifter hour of the day, will probably dine on the refuse of the tablc-d’hote, and pay double price for an inferior dinner and a bottle of the same wine which at the public table passed for vin ordinaire. In fact, it discon- certs the system of a German household (and in Germany every thing is done systematically) to dress a dinner, or even a mutton-chop, out of the usual hours'; and when masters and waiters put themselves out of the way to comply with the foreign habits of English travellers, an extra price is regarded by' many as hardly a sufficient compensation. German innkeepers, however, are beginning now to be better accustomed to Englishmen’s habits of dining late; and in the hotels of many of the larger towns, such as Frankfurt, Coblentz, Baden, Wiesbaden, &c., there is a second table- d’hote at 4 or 5 o’clock, to accommodate the English: but not many years ago (and even at the present in the remoter parts of Germany), if a traveller hap- pened to reach an inn after the hour of table-d’hote, he stood a very poor chance of getting anything to eat at all. Those who intend to dine at the table-d’hote in a frequented inn at a full season should desire the waiter to keep their places. The guests are usually seated according to priority of arrival, the last comers being placed at the foot of the table. Supper, which, owing to the early hour of dinner, is a usual meal in Germany, is ordered from the Carte (Speise-Carte). Travellers on the Rhine during May should inquire for Maitrink, a spiced wine, or cup flavoured with some aromatic herb, peculiar to this part of the country; it sheds its flowers at the end of May. It used to be said to be best made at the small inn at Rolandseck. Few German inns afford what in England would be termed sitting-rooms; even the best apartments, on the lower floor, though furnished elegantly ,as a parlour, serve as bed-rooms, and contain one or more beds. The price of a room depends upon the number of beds in it, but the double-bedded rooms are invariably superior to those with only one bed. The partitions dividing the rooms of German inns are often very thin, and the rooms usually open into each other; the tenant should, therefore, remember that what he says and does is liable to be overheard. r 30. GERMAN BEDS. One of the first complaints of an Englishman on arriving in Germany will be directed against the beds. It is therefore as well to make him aware before- hand of the full extent of misery to which he will be subjected on this score. A German bed is made only for one; it may be compared to an open wooden box, often hardly wide enough to turn in, and rarely long enough for any man of moderate stature to lie down in. The pillows encroach nearly half-way down, and form such an angle with the bed that it is scarcely possible to lie at full length, or assume any other than a half sitting posture. Curtains are almost always wanting. The place of blankets is sometimes supplied by a light puffy feather-bed, which is likely to be kicked off, and forsake in his utmost need the sleeper, who, on awaking in cold weather, finds himself frozen: should it remain in its position in warm weather, the opposite alternative is that of suffocation beneath it; Mr. Coleridge has recorded his abhorrence of a German bed,Germany. 31. vaxets de plage, etc. 20? declaring “he would: rather carry his blanket about him like a wild Indian; than submit toithis abominable custom.” The Gernians themselves say that they use the feather-bed merely to cover thieir feet in cold weather. The stranger who appreciates this nuisance to its full extent is recommended to ask the chamber-maid for a counterpane (bett-decke), instead of the usual federbett. ■ SI. VALETS-DE-PI.ACE; OR, LOHNBEDIENTER. It has been the custom of many travellers who have published tours to speak very contemptuously of the class of guides who go by the name of yalets-de- place, though it may fairly be suspected that they owe much of the best part of their books to that despised caste. The fact is, that when a traveller arrives for the first time at a spot which he is desirous of seeing thoroughly, and at the same time does not intend to remain long in it, a valet-de-place is indispensable, unless he has friends who will perform the part of ciceroni for him. There are always a certain number of persons; experienced in the duties of a guide attached to every inn; and if the traveller, instead of engaging a person nominated by the landlord, for the sake of sparing a franc or two, put his trust in the boys who may accost him in the streets, he runs the risk of falling into bad bands, or of finding himself in situations in which it will be neither agreeable nor credit- able to be placed. The utility of a valet-de-place consists in his knowledge of the hours at which each church, picture gallery, palace, or other sight, is open, or visible; how to procure tickets of admission, and where to find the keepers of them, which spares the traveller much time in running about in, search of them, and, if he have a spare hour, furnishes the means of spending it advantageously. The valet-de- place will also know the residences of all the ambassadors, and the mode of obtaining passports, and will undertake to have them properly vise. Nothing is so annoying as to have to traverse the streets of a large town in search of ministers and consuls, and, on arriving, perhaps to find you have come at the wrong time, or at least to be compelled to dance attendance for hours. It is far preferable to promise your valet-de-place a franc or two, if he secure the proper signatures within a fixed time. At the same time, it is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the tricks of a valet-de-place. For his own advantage, and the interest of the inn- keeper his patron, he will often endeavour to detain the traveller, by framing excuses — that collections are not open — that the passport office is closed, or—— the minister out of town. It is better to state beforehand to the man what objects you desire to see, and how much time you can devote to seeing them; to ascertain from him at once at what hours different sights are thrown open to the public, and to make him arrange the order of proceeding accordingly. With respect to passports, it may be borne in mind that the hours of attendance at police-offices are, with very few exceptions, so regulated as never to detain persons who are anxious to proceed; and if the valet-de-place maintains there is any impediment, the best way to settle the matter is by calling in the landlord, or, if that will not do, by going in person to the police-office. The fee paid to a valet-de-place varies in different parts of Germany; and it will be found particularised in the description of almost all the great cities. It is not always necessary to engage him for the whole day: he may be hired by the hour, and paid accordingly. Travellers are warned on no account to take a valet-de-place with them into a shop where they wish to make purchases, since it is an acknowledged practice of the valet-de-place to demand of the tradesman a fee of 5 per cent, on the sum laid out by the stranger whom he conducts, and this is, of course, added to the208 32. CUSTOM-HOUSE LEAGUE. COINAGE. Sect. III. price paid by the purchaser. Another practice, in towns where palaces or churches are exhibited by fixed attendants, is for the valet-de-place to name a larger sum than is necessary as the fee to be paid to the attendant, part of which he receives back himself: unless the traveller ascertains that the fee named is fixed by tariff or usage, it is usually advisable to disregard altogether the sum mentioned by him. 32. GERMAN CUSTOM-HOUSE LEAGUE, ZOLL-VEREIN.-------COINAGE. Down to 1833 almost every state in Germany had its own tariff and system of duties, and the traveller was subjected to the inconvenience of custom-house visi- tations on the frontier of each state, however insignificant; while the vexatious impediments thrown in the way of trade were enormous. Some states, situated in the interior of the Continent, were compelled to pay 10 or 12 different transit duties for every article they imported or exported. An Association called Zoll-Verein (Toll Union), headed by Prussia, is now formed for the furtherance of trade by consolidating the different states of Ger- many, and uniting them under one system of customs. The members of this league have agreed to adopt the same scale of duties—to abolish all intermediate custom-houses, and to divide the profits among the states of the Union propor- tionately to the population of each. In consequence of this, many of the re- straints which impeded the communication from one part of Germany to the other have been removed. The conforming states are, Prussia, the head of the league, Bavaria, Saxony, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Brunswick, Hesse-Darmstadt, Cassel, Nassau, Frankfurt, the Duchies of Saxony, and Principalities of Anhalt. Those which have, up to the present time, held back from this commercial con- federation, are, Hanover, Oldenburg, Mecklenburg, Holstein, and the Hanse Towns, which have formed a minor league of their own. Thus the traveller who has crossed the outer line is freed from the vexations of the Douanier in every part of Central Germany, and may proceed without interruption from Belgium to the frontier of Russia, and from Tyrol to the Baltic, a distance of 700 or 800 miles : and a small transit duty enables goods to pass all the states of the Union. Austria still follows the ancient regulations in all the states belong- ing to her. This Confederation made the first step towards producing a political nation- ality in Germany. Another object effected by the League is, unity in the cur- rency. A money convention was entered into by the States forming the Union in 1837, who agreed on a new basis of valuation under the term Sud Deutsche Wdhrung (S. D. W.), at the rate of 24i gulden to the marc of fine silver, the marc of fine silver weighing 233 grammes -£^j. The term “ Vier-und-zwanzig-gulden-Fuss” implies that the marc of fine silver is coined into 24 gulden or florins. The florins coined by the Customs Union are nearly of this rate, differing 'only 2 per cent.; 1 fl. = 19gd., making the par of exchange with London 120J fl. S. D. W. = 101. According to the 24 gulden Fuss, 118 fl. = 10f. 1 jmarc of fine silver =14 Pruss. dollars = 24^ fl. of S. Germany = 20 fl. of Austria = 60 lire Austriache. Thaler = 1^ florin. Florin = $ thaler. Bavaria, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Frankfurt, and Saxony have issued coins at this rate : piece of 2 thalers = 3J florins, or j of the marc. It bears on one side the head of the sovereign, on the other the words “ Vereins Miinze'' 1 Centner of the zollverein = 50 French kilogrammes = 110^ lbs. avoirdupois. The ton of 4 scheffels = 6 Imp. bushels, nearly 1 per cent. more.Germany. 33. distances. 34. modes op travelling. 209 33. DISTANCES. — TRAVELLING MAPS. 1 German m. =4§ Eng. m. (say 5 Eng. m. on an average), or about 1 French post. 15 German miles or 14*77 Prussian make a degree. 1 Germ. m. = 22*803 Rhenish feet. 2 German m., or 4 stunden (hours), make one post =9$ Eng. m. The Ger- man post stunde is not quite 2$ Eng. m.; the Stunde zu Fuss (hour walking) is about 3 m., or as much as a man can walk in an hour without much exertion. In Rhenish Prussia the mile is divided into 100 parts, which are marked by small stones set up at the roadside. These stones are, therefore, 82 yards Engl, apart, and 21$ of these hundredths make an English mile, nearly. This sub- division of the German mile is used to express distances on the railroads. German post miles compared with English. Prussian, Bavarian, Hanoverian, New Saxon, Hessian Austrian ------ Old Saxon - - - - - French Poste - - - - - French Myriametre - - - - Eng. Ger. Eng. 4§ or 5 = 23 4$ — 5 = 23$ 5$ — 5 = 28$ 4| — 5 = 24 6$ — 5 = 31 L. R. G. The most clear, accurate, and portable Travelling Maps of Germany are, 1. Hendschel’s Post Map (published by Jiigel, Frankfurt) for the roads; 2. Wieland’s Zollverein Karte for the Custom-houses; 3. Bernhard’s Sprachkarte for the Dialects. 4. Hendschel’s Eisenbahn Atlas for the Railways, and “ Illustrations to the Hand-book,” being a series of separate maps of the Routes contained in this book, published at the suggestion of the Editor, will be found useful. 5. Hendschel’s Rhein-Panorama. There is a very good travelling map of Germany, with separate maps of the several railways, by Diez, published by Justus Perthes: Gotha, 1848. It costs, when mounted on linen and in a case, 3 thalers = 9s. 34. MODES OF TRAVELLING.-------POSTING, OR EXTRA POST.-----LAUFZETTEL. Posting throughout Germany has of late years been placed on a much im- proved footing, though still inferior to what it is in England, in the quickness of travelling, speed of changing, and goodness of the horses. On all the great roads, with hardly one exception, the postmasters will provide carriages (usually open caleches) for persons who have none of their own, but they are often dirty, and generally very uncomfortable. In the large towns of Germany, the traveller who requires post-horses must forward his passport beforehand to the postmaster. At least an hour’s previous notice is required. The horses should not be brought to the door a moment before they are wanted, as an extra charge is made for every half hour they are kept in waiting. The postmasters, in great towns, and where the king and court reside, &c., are entitled to make an extra charge of $ or $ post for horses, on the first stage into or out of the town, which is called a royal post (or poste de faveur). In Germany the traveller pays only for the actual number of horses he uses. On hilly stages the postmaster is empowered to compel travellers to take leaders (vorspann) to drag their carriage up the ascents. He receives a docu- ment, officially signed by the postmaster-general, to entitle him to make this de- mand, and must produce the paper if travellers require to see it. With these two exceptions, a traveller is obliged to take on, from every'post station, as many horses as brought his carriage to it. This may sometimes be avoided by paying210 Sect. in. 34. POSTING, ETC. a postmaster, at the beginning of the journey, for the additional horses he is en- tided to put on, without attaching them, or having them mentioned or included in the ticket. 'Be always on your guard against any concession in regard to extra horses, for if once on there is no getting them off again. Whenever an extra horse is taken either from necessity, on account of heavy roads, or in order to push on, take care to have this stated distinctly on the posting ticket. These posting tickets, or receipts, serve as a check against overcharges, and should always be demanded. German postilions are proverbial for their slowness, and, excepting in parts of Prussia, in Baden, in the countries where the post is managed by the Prince of Thurn and Taxis, and in some parts of Austria, 1 Germ. m. an hour, including stoppages, in as much as can be calculated on. Postilion's ■ Trinkgeld (drink-money). The best general rule is to pay him as a horse, or double the tariff, if the traveller is satisfied with the postilion. He is never restricted to the sum which he can legally demand, except when he has not given satisfaction. The wealthy Germans themselves pay a postilion in Prussia, &c. —: For 2 or 3 horses . 1 mile 10 to 12 silver groschen. — 4 — — from 18 to 20 — In Baden and South Germany — For 2 horses I post Id. to 1 fl. 12 kr. — 4 — — 1 fl. 30 kr. to 2 fl. When two carriages drawn by post-horses meet at or near the middle of a stage, the postilions generally expect to be allowed to stop and transfer them- selves and their horses, so that each may return home at once. In N. Germany this cannot be done without the traveller's permission. No variation is made in consequence in the sum paid to the postilion, who drives to the end of the stage. It is not wise to resist this, except under peculiar circumstances : the men usually drive, and the horses go better homeward; besides, a relay is thus sometimes secured on stages where horses are scarce. The German postboy is, sometimes, familiarly addressed by tbe term Schwager (brother-in-law); the reason of this singular title is not satisfactorily explained. At every posthouse a book is kept in which the traveller can enter all com- plaints which he has to make against the postmaster. These, of course, cannot be redressed unless the name and address of the complainant be affixed. “ In all cases of serious dispute with a postmaster or innkeeper, reference should be made to the magistrate of the district, not to the village officer, who is not likely to do justice to a stranger against a fellow townsman. The mere threat of this will often settle a dispute, by diminishing the probability of imposition being connived at.” L. M. r. A post-caliche costs about as much as a third horse. The Wagenmeister (coach-master), a kind of superior ostler, who super- intends the postboys, is sometimes entitled to a small fee on putting the horses to. Schmiergdd (grease-money). On driving up to the post-house, the traveller is often addressed with the words, “ Wollen sie schmieren lassen ? ” (Will you have the wheels greased ?). Whether this is done or not, in some countries the fee is exacted; but more frequently it is only paid when the grease is actually applied. There is a regulation in some parts of Germany which compels travellers who have arrived with post-horses, at any place where there is a post-station, to con- tinue their journey with post-horses, or else to remain 24 or even 48 hours on the spot, before they can avail themselves of any Other mode of conveyance. T'his rule is not always enforced.Germany. 34. posting, laufzettel. 211 Number of Horses. — An open carriage (caleche or britzka), not very heavy, and without an imperial, is very often drawn by two horses only, even with three persons; while a close chariot always requires three horses, even though there be only one person inside. Where 3 horses are necessary for a carriage, the third horse is not harnessed abreast, as in France and Belgium, but before the other two, at the end of the pole. In many parts'"of Germany, if the carriage be not provided with a box in front, from which the postilion can drive, a third (or extra) horse must be taken for him to ride on. 2 Horses. Postilion. Total. s. d. d. s. d. 'In Austria 0 5 2$ o n\ Comparative expense (exclu- Bavaria 0 5$ 2? 0 8| sive of Turnpikes) of Post— Prussia 0 6| 2| 0 9i ing per English Mile Belgium 0 6$ 0 10J England 1 6 3 1 9 L. S. Fuller details of charges for posting in the different countries of Germany will be found in the introductory information prefixed to the routes through each of those countries. Laufzettel. — Travellers pressed for time, and desirous of avoiding all delay at post-houses, may bespeak relays of horses along the road they are about to travel, on application at the Poste aux Chevaux, or the post-office of the town from which they set out. They must apply at least 12 hours before the time they intend to start, must state in writing when they intend to depart, the route they propose to follow, and.the number of horses they require ; and the post- master will send on beforehand, and make arrangements accordingly. This order is called a Laufzettel, and may be obtained at a trifling expense. “ It is in use, I believe, throughout Germany, certainly in Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, and Hesse Cassel. I found, indeed, that wherever a diligence or schnellpost travelled you might have a laufzettel. The value of this in short days, and when you wish to get rapidly over an uninteresting country, is very great; and in the harvest, when post-horses and postilions are constantly employed in the fields, you will sometimes find it difficult to get through 70 or 80 English miles in two days without a laufzettel. I always found my horses, on all routes, ready harnessed, and put to the carriage almost as quickly as is done at Hounslow, when I had taken the precaution of bespeaking them in this manner.” —D. j. “ In Austria, Prussia, and other parts of Germany, travellers have the power of taking the post-horses ‘ en courier ’ (courier-massig); the charge is about one-half more; but the postilion is bound to drive 2 German miles in 1 hour, and to change in 5 minutes by day, and 10 by night. 3 ‘courier horses’ will not cost more than 4 ‘extra post-horses,’ and will travel a great deal quicker.”^ Hr. S. The rate of ordinary posting is, at least in Prussia, 2 Germ, miles in 1 h. 20 min. Tolls.—The practice of including the tolls in the charge for the horses is extending in Germany, much to the convenience of the traveller.212 35. DILIGENCES. 36. GERMAN YOITURIER. Sect. III. 35. DILIGENCES; (called in Prussia Schnellposten, in Austria Eilwagen). The post-office and public conveyances belong to the Government, and are managed by its officers, with very few exceptions, in all the German states. The Schnell-post, or Eilwagen, is placed under the care of a guard, called Conducteur, or Schirrmeister. In most cases the seats are numbered, and passengers are placed in the order in which their places are engaged. The first numbers are affixed to the corner seats, which of course are more desirable than those in the middle, especially for night travelling. On this account, it will be perceived how advantageous it is to engage the place as long as possible before the time of starting. The fare must be paid beforehand, and a receipt is always given for it, and for baggage, whether the passenger takes it with him or sends it by the waggon. The greatest care is taken of the baggage of travellers all over the Continent: instances of loss are very rare. Every package must be distinctly addressed, with the name and destination of the person to whom it belongs; otherwise the post-office will not be responsible for it if lost. In Prussia, Austria, and many other parts of Germany, when all the places in the main diligence (Hauptwagen) are booked, additional carriages (bey-chaiscn) are prepared' for extra passengers — a very great accommodation. On some occasions, for instance during the Leipzig fair, as many as 20 or 30 additional carriages are attached, and set out and travel in company. Passengers cannot be called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence at the coach office, and must send their luggage at least an hour before. Every article is. weighed and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each passenger: all above that must be paid for: large trunks must be sent by a baggage-waggon. The Conducteur is usually a superior person to the English guard; and, besides his duties, has the charge of paying postilions, and is responsible for the baggage of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from them; indeed in many cases he is forbidden to accept any. Rate of Fares per Germ. m. 8 to 10 S. gr. = 28* to 36 kr. = 9^ to ll^d. Rate of travelling_In Prussia, on the best roads, 8 English m. an hour; in other parts, and in Austria, 6 m.; but sometimes only 1 Germ. m. per hour. Postwaggons. — Besides the Eilwagen, there is another species of public con- veyance of an inferior kind, not so well appointed, and much slower, called Fahr- post, or Postwagen. It is so tedious, usually on account of the long stoppages which it makes at every stage, that the traveller might get to his journey’s end nearly as soon on foot. On those roads where there are eilwagen the postwagen should be decidedly avoided, as these are commonly crowded by inferior persons ; but there are other roads which are only traversed by a postwagen. For ladies, or for a family, a diligence is by no means a desirable conveyance, and is not nearly so economical as a Lohnkutscher’s carriage. In many cases, where a party amounts to 3 or 4, it will be less expensive to buy a carriage and travel post than with the diligence. 36. THE GERMAN YOITURIER. --LOHNKUTSCHER. In all the large towns of Germany, coachmen (called Lohnkutscher or Land- kutscher), similar to the Italian Vetturini, abound, ready at all times to convey travellers in every direction. They are usually to be met with in the principal streets, in front of the great inns, where their carriages are stationed, and where they hang up boards, bearing the names of the places to which they are bound, and they are not backward in giving the same information verbally, as they213 Germany. 36. german voiturier. lohnkutscher. usually address every one who passes with the question, “Suchen Sie Gelegenheit, mein Herr?” (Are you in search of an opportunity [i. e. of travelling], sir?) The advantages of Vetturino travelling consist, first, in its being cheaper than posting, or even than the Schnellpost, when 4 persons join in taking a carriage; secondly, it is more independent than the diligence, as it allows the traveller to stop on the road, by having a previous understanding with the driver ; thirdly, as there are many roads on which German schnellposts and eilwagen do not"travel every day of the week, it is often the only mode of proceeding unless the traveller take post-horses; fourthly, it is almost the only available mode of travelling upon cross or side-roads which are not post-roads; —fifthly, it allows the traveller an opportunity of resting at night. At the same time it must be remembered that, as the Lohnkutscher travels with the same pair of horses, it is not an expeditious mode" of conveyance; 40 or 50 m. being the utmost extent of a day’s jour- ney; and 1 or 2 halts of an hour or two’s duration are necessary to refresh the horses each day. It will therefore not answer for the traveller who is pressed for time. The usual Vetturino carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut in with leather curtains or glass windows, and of accommodating 4 or 5 persons, and 1 on the box. The coachman undertakes the care and transport of baggage without any additional charge. Attached to the footboard behind is a large wicker basket for holding luggage, which is secured in its place by a chain. The usual cost per diem for the entire use of a caleche, drawn by 2 horses, is from 6 to 7 dollars in Prussia and the N. of Germany, and 8 or 10 florins in the S. near the Rhine; and along much traversed roads the rate is sometimes even higher. The driver, if he behave well, receives a trinkgeld of 12 groschen, or a zwanziger per”diem. In this is included every charge for tolls, barriers, ferries, &c., and the driver provides for himself and horses. When forage is dear or tolls heavy, some little difference may be made; but the above may be considered an average of the charges. As a further scale by which to calculate a Lohnkutscher’s charge it may be mentioned, that the hire of a carriage for 4 persons should not exceed ijds or ^ths the fare of 4 for the same distance in the Eilwagen. Upon much frequented roads the German Lohnkutscher has no right to claim hack fare, as he hardly fails to pick up passengers on his return; and indeed he will not hesitate to go to the most distant corner of Europe if he meets with a good offer. Before hiring a carriage expressly for a journey, it is advisable to ascertain whether there be no return carriages (retour chaisen) about to take the same route, as such may be engaged at a very reduced rate. A single individual has no occasion to take a whole coach to himself; he may secure a single place, paying proportionately; but then he must take his chance of the company he may have to encounter as fellow-passengers. He should make his bargain, and secure his place, over night: if he wait till the morning, he will probably find that all the Lohnkutschers have departed before he was up, as they set out betimes, and he will either be compelled to remain on the spot till the following day, or to hire a carriage expressly for himself. When the journey will last for several days, it will be well not to engage the coachman at once for the whole distance, but, if satisfied, to take him on day by day. It is better not to employ a driver upon a road which he has not travelled before, but to seek out one who will serve as a guide, and be able to give some information about the inns and country through which he has to pass. In Germany it is not customary or necessary to draw up a written agreement with the driver, as in Italy ; but it is sometimes the practice for him to deposit in the hands of the person who has engaged him a small sum of money (hand- or darauf-geld; in Italy, la caparra) as a surety that lie will not fail in his engagement, and run off, in case he can make a better bargain elsewhere. The214 36. GERMAN VOITURXER. LOHNKUTSCHER. Sect. III. receipt of this money is also binding on the part of the employer, who cannot afterwards put off the driver without paying him a consideration. Before engaging the whole carriage, a verbal stipulation should be made with the driver, that he is to take up no person by the way without his. employer’s consent; that he is to stop when and where he is bid; and, though it is an understood thing that he is to pay all tolls, &c., a foreigner had better mention this also. The time of startings and the length of the day’s journey, should also be fixed. The German Voiturier does not engage to provide you with meals, as the Italian; but he expects to be allowed to stop at inns of his own choosing,—a condition to which travellers are not compelled to agree, though they rarely object. He never fails to regulate his daily journey so as to make his mid-day halt at some place where there is a good dinner just ready to be served up. This mid-day halt of 2 or 3 hours’ duration will often suffice, to enable, the traveller to see as much as he can desire of many places where he would have no inclination to spend a whole day, and which he would merely drive hurriedly through in the public diligences. These directions will probably be found to be as ample as are necessary ; of course, the traveller must not always expect that matters will go smoothly. If he be totally unacquainted with the German language, he will obviously be exposed to numberless inconveniences, and, if he be prudent, will bear them quietly; in vetturino travelling, he must expect to start at break of day, in all weathers, and at a pace seldom exceeding a good ordinary walk; at mid-day to rest for three or four hours, possibly at a place of not the slightest interest, and to go to bed at the setting of the sun. When it has been said above, that a single individual may secure a place, paying proportionately, it may often happen to a traveller, especially an Englishman^ from ignorance, mismanage- ment, and other causes, to find that bis share will be two or three times greater than that of any of his fellow-passengers. Attempts, too, to limit the number of passengers below the usual complement frequently terminate in the traveller’s being both cheated and laughed at. 37. RAILWAYS. Railroads have extended rapidly in Germany within the last few years. The map, and the following routes, will show what lines are now open, or about to open. Many of the German rules and regulations are in the highest degree cum- brous, frivolous, vexatious, and useless; none more so than those relating to overweight (iibergewicht) of baggage. No more than 40 lbs. are generally allowed free; if you have-41 lbs. you pay as for 100. Travellers should be at the station, if they have luggage, some time before the train starts, as the weigh- ing, ticketing, and paying for the luggage is a very tedious process. Numbered tickets are affixed to very article, and a corresponding receipt is given to the owner, which he must produce at the end of his journey in order to reclaim his property. There is a sort of German Bradshaw, “ Eisenbahn Tele- graph," published by Jiigel of Frankfort, giving Time Tables of the German lines, which is very serviceable. 38. BAGGAGE. The Romans showed they fully appreciated the nature of baggage, in designa- ting it by the appropriate word “ impedimenta,” and truly the traveller will find it an impediment at every step. It is a source of much anxiety, trouble, and expense; and he alone can be called independent who can carry all his chattels on his back. Ladies should be cautioned not to encumber themselves withGermany, 37. railways. 38. baggage. 215 supernumerary cap- and band-boxes; even if they travel post in their own carriage, it will be less trouble and expense to buy such articles in the great towns, than have to take an extra horse in consideration of the number of packages. A person about to travel, not in bis own carriage, but in public conveyances, if he require much baggage, should distribute it into small packages; and, instead of taking one large box or trunk of wood (koffer), had better provide himself with two portmanteaus (felleisen) of leather, or with a carpet-bag. Throughout Germany, passengers by the schnell-post or eilwagen are very strictly limited as to the quantity of baggage; in general, one is allowed no more than SO lbs. free of expense—all above that is called over-weight (iiberge- wicht), and must be paid for. But even payment will not enable the passenger to take his baggage with him if it weigh more than 50 lbs., in case the eilwagen happen to be full. Where there is room it is commonly received, but if not, the director of the post-office cannot be compelled to take it, should it exceed by a few pounds the prescribed limits. It must, in that case, be sent by a separate conveyance, a baggage waggon (packwagen), which, being a much heavier and slower vehicle, usually sets out some time before the schnell-post, or eilwagen, and arrives after it. A traveller, loaded with heavy trunks, and ignorant of this regulation, may be subjected to great inconvenience by being separated for several days from them ; while he that is aware of it will deposit the articles immediately wanted in a light bag or valise, and send off his heavy baggage beforehand, some days before he starts himself. A receipt is given for every article forwarded in this manner; on presenting which in the post-office at the place where the traveller is bound, the luggage is delivered to him as soon as it arrives. When about to plunge into a mountainous country, where there are no car- riage roads, it is indispensable to diminish the baggage to the utmost. Trunks, boxes, and parcels may be safely forwarded by the government, or private eil- wagen, from one capital to another, or even across a frontier, into the territory of another sovereign. In the latter case, they should be addressed to the owner at the custom-house (Haupt Mauth, or Zollamt) of the place to which he wishes them sent, where they will be taken care of, and kept till called for. At the same time a letter of specification (frachtbrief) should be despatched, by post, bearing the same address as the parcel, and stating-the nature and value of.the contents, so as to identify them when the owner arrives. When he comes: to claim them, he will be required to show his passport, and to open the packages in the ordinary manner, in the presence of a Custom-house officer. ' . When a parcel is not sent-beyond a frontier, but is merely forwarded from one town to another, if the traveller have no friend - or agent in the town to whose care he can consign it, all that is required is, that he should address it poste restante, and it will be kept at the post-office till called for. 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY.* It will heighten the interest of a tour, and spread a more general acquaintance with a people, who may be called our first-cousins (cousins-German), whose character, manners, and language more nearly approach our own than those of any other nation, to give a short outline of the geography and history of their country. A. Geography and Statistics, &c. &c. — Germany, situated in the centre of Europe, reaching from the Adriatic to the Baltic and North Sea, borders to- wards the S. upon Switzerland and Italy, towards the N. upon Denmark, on * Furnished to the Editor of the Handbook by a very intelligent friend.216 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Sect. III. the E. upon Hungary, Poland, and Russia, on the W. upon France and the Netherlands; and contains 11,556 German square miles. Physical Geography. The central group of mountains, which may be termed the heart of Germany, is the Fichtelgebirge. From this branch out, crosswise, 4 principal chains of mountains, which influence the rivers, climate, and popu- lation. They stretch diagonally; the Thuringerwald to the N.W., the Erzgebirge to the N. E., the Bbhmerwald to the S.E., and the Rauhalp to the S.W. Each has its branches and prolongations, and, singularly enough, each quarter of lower country comprehended between the chains above mentioned has a separate group of mountains in it, except the southern. In the North the Hartz stands out alone, in the East the Riesengebirge, in the West the moun- tains of Westphalia and the Rhine. The Schwarzwald running from N. to S. is exceptional. The population, chiefly spread in small towns, there being but four of more than 100,000 people, (Vienna, Berlin, Prague, and Hamburg), amounts to above 36 millions. By race and language, 30 millions are of the Germanic, and the remainder of the Sclavonic race : 320,000 are Jews, &c. By religion, there are 20 millions Catholics, most of them in the south; and about 16 millions of the Lutheran and Calvinist (now in Prussia, and almost everywhere united, ) or Protestant persuasion, mostly in the north. The language, not beautiful in sound, but very rich, manly, and expressive, well suited to poetry and all other styles of writing, is the mother tongue of Holland, England, Switzerland, Denmark, and Sweden. It so nearly resembles English, that the bulk of our most necessary words for eating, drinking, for the limbs, colours, elements—in fact, words indispensable to a first state of society — are even now nearly the same. The best. German is spoken by the higher classes in Saxony and Hanover. The climate is temperate, and the weather being steady, it is in summer often very warm; in winter severe, but then with a clear sky. The great rivers, Rhine, Danube, &c., are very often frozen over from November to March. The most fertile parts are the great valleys of the Danube and the Rhine. “ So many leave England for climate, and expect to find an improvement as soon as they cross the Channel, that a few words on the climate of Germany may be useful. The N. W. is the dampest quarter, the S. W. the mildest, the S. E. the driest, the N. E. the coldest. ~ In general the whole basin of the Rhine enjoys a better climate, winter and summer, than the rest of Germany. The alternations are almost as frequent as in England, except in very cold winters, and they are more sudden, and range between higher and lower extremes, daily and yearly. The neighbourhood of Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, and Freyburg, is perhaps the best climate in Germany.”—F. S.. Living is about as cheap again in the south as in the north. A thaler here will not procure more than a gulden there. The common necessaries of life are one third cheaper than in England; and in many other things, education, doctors, law, &c., the difference is much greater. Agriculture flourishes : in the north there are yet many large estates; not so many in the south, where a free peasantry till their own soil. Although the too numerous subdivisions are felt as an evil, this is preferred to the opposite extreme of overgrown estates, cultivated by mere labourers. Produce for exportation is — com, wool, iron, and other metals, timber, wine, and mineral waters. The Manufactures vigorously reviving since the peace, and only surpassed by the genius, capital, and machinery of England, supply — linen cloth, cotton goods, silks, paper, leather, hardware, china, glass, toys, beer, &c. Importations: chiefly colonial produce and articles of British manufacture.Germany. 39. succinct account of Germany. 217 Germany takes more of the last than any country in the world except the United States,—to the amount of 4 million pounds sterling yearly. The principal Sea-port, almost the first of the Continent, is Hamburg. The chief Fairs are held at Leipsig and Frankfurt on the Maine. The golden era of German Commerce, when, along with that of Venice and Genoa, it became the most flourishing of Europe, was in 1364, at the time of the Hanseatic League, which comprised 60 towns on the Rhine, the German Ocean, and Baltic Sea. They were so powerful as to equip, on one occasion, a fleet of 248 ships, with 12,000 troops. They conquered Denmark and Sweden, forced France to stop its trade with England, and made England purchase peace at the price of a tribute. After the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope and America, and in conse- quence of the ravages of the 30 years’ war, German commerce died away; and it is but just beginning to assume greater importance. Down to the time of the French Revolution, the German Empire consisted of more than 300 distinct states, greater or smaller, which were divided into Ten Circles: — 1. Austria. 2. Burgundy (including Belgium, Luxemburg, Limburg, &c., belonging to Austria). 3. Westphalia. 4. Electoral Rhine, including the ecclesiastical principalities of Mayence, Treves, and Cologne, and the Palatinate. 5. Upper Rhine, chiefly the territory of the Landgrave of Hesse Cassel. 6. Swabia, the ^larger part made up of the domains of the Duke of Wurtemberg and the Margrave of Baden. 7. Bavaria. 8. Fran- conia, including the bishoprics of Bamberg and Wurzburg, the principalities of Baireuth and Anspach, the free city of Nuremburg, &c. 9. Lower Saxony, including Magdeburg, Brunswick, Mecklenburg, Holstein, &c. 10. Upper Saxony, or Pomerania, Brandenburg, Anhalt, Saxony (Electoral and Ducal), &c. The German Confederation now comprises 33 independent states:—One Empire: Austria, with a population of 11 millions (but 35 millions if we include the provinces which are not German). Five Kingdoms: Prussia, with 10 millions (and 3 millions not Germans); Bavaria, with 4 millions; Saxony, Hanover, Wirtemberg, each 1^ million. Seventeen Duchies and Grand Duchies: Baden, 2 Hessen, Holstein, Luxemburg, 4 Saxon Duchies, Bruns- wick, 2 Mecklenburgs, Oldenburg, Nassau, 3 Anhalts. Eleven Principalities: 2 Schwarzburgs, 2 Hohenzollern, Lichtenstein, 2 Reuss, 2 Lippe, Waldeck, Homburg. Four Free Towns: Frankfurt on Maine, Lubeck, Bremen, and Hamburg. The Army of the Confederation is, in peace, about 300,COO men; of whom 40,000 are cavalry. The finest forests are in the centre: in Franconia, Hesse, Westphalia; near the Rhine they are rarer. Enclosed countries are chiefly in the N., as in Hol- stein, Mecklenburg, &c., and near the Alps. Gentlemen’s country scats are confined to a few districts, of which the favourite ones seem to be : —the Rhein- gau — the environs of Constance—Holstein — Mecklenburg and Pomerania_____ Silesia, western part; ar.d of course the neighbourhood of some of the towns. Among the finest are:—Muskau, Lusatia; Ponimersfelden, Franconia — Count Schbnborn.—Johannisberg, Nassau; Konigswart, Bohemia—Prince Metter- nich. — Heiligenberg, Baden — Prince Fiirstenberg____Eisgrub, Moravia____ Prince Lichtenstein. — Waldleiningen, Osenwald—Prince Leiningen. — Heu- bach, on the Maine—Prince Lowenstein. B. History. — The German nations were never conquered by the Romans: at the grand migration they, on the contrary, broke down the Roman empire, and prevailed in Italy, Spain, France, and England. The Germanic Empire, founded by Charlemagne, a. d. 800, was dissolved L218 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Sect. IIL under Francis II., who, in 1806, exchanged the title of Emperor of Germany for that of Emperor of Austria, confining himself toliis hereditary dominions— Austria, Bohemia, Hungary, &c. In the olden time the Germanic empire was a league of barons, counts, and dukes. Seven of the most powerful (nine in later times) bore the titles of Electors, from their privilege to elect the emperor. The Electors were—the archbishops of Mayence (the archbishop and archchancellor of the empire), Treves, and Cologne, the Palatine of the Rhine, arch-steward of the empire ; the margrave of Brandenburg, arch-chamberlain; the duke of Saxony, arch-marshal; and the king of Bohemia, arch-cupbearer: to these were afterwards added Bavaria (1623), and Brunswick (1692). At first, those nobles held their dominions merely as vassals of the empire ; in course of time they kept them by inheritance. Nearly the same occurred with the title and office of Emperor (although the form of election was observed to the last); and it continued, almost uninter- ruptedly, in the Habsburg family, longer than in any other, from 1273 to 1806. After the extinction of the line of Charlemagne, the Emperors were chosen from the Saxons (in 919, Henry I. and Otho I.); from the Franks or Salians (in 1039, Henry III.) ; from the Suabians or Hohenstaufen (in 11.52, Frederick I.and II.); from the Austrians or Habsburgs (in 1273, Rudolph I., Max- imilian I., Charles V., and Joseph II.); of whom, those named are the most distinguished. The long line of fifty emperors exhibits not one tyrant, nor did any one of them fall by the fury of the people. The empire was by far the most powerful state in Europe, extending its sway over the Netherlands, over a great part of the eastern provinces of France, over Bohemia, Hungary, and Italy. This mighty state, which had existed paramount in Europe longer than any in ancient or modern times, in spite of the dangerous system of elected, instead of hereditary emperors, received its death-blow from the discord which followed the Reforma- tion. It sickened, undermined through foreign jealousy ; till, divided as it had been, it was dissolved under the influence of Napoleon. The more powerful princes who, at the dissolution of the empire, had with the titles of dukes and kings become independent sovereigns, afterwards coalesced together to the number of thirty-eight, Austria and Prussia at their head, four free towns at their tail, under the name of the German Confederation. This took place on the 8th of June, 1815; and the princes had, by their ambassadors, a permanent Congress or Diet, at present at Frankfurt on the Maine, in order to concert measures for the welfare or defence of their joint Father-land. Ger- many, with the dependencies of Austria and Prussia, presenting the mass of 60 millions of people, in the heart of the Continent, might, if well united, always command the first position in the affairs of Europe. The Constitution of Germany of 1815 may be called an Act of Confederation, by which the princes pledged themselves to maintain each other in independence: and by the 13 th article they promised their people to re-establish, or to con- stitute, legislative chambers 1 Law. — By the most ancient Germanic Law, there existed a kind of par- liament (“ the Mayfelder ”), trial by jury, and a public administration of justice. The Roman law has supplanted the Germanic, and is now the basis of the administration of justice—in Prussia, with important improvements by Fre- derick II. In the Rhenish provinces of Prussia, Hesse, Bavaria, on the left bank of the Rhine, the Code Napoleon, with open courts, and trial by jury, is still in force, and rooted in the attachment of the people. The same Code has partly been adopted by some of the southern states. Education. — The Germans flatter themselves that scientific education is more universally diffused amongst them than any where else. They possess twenty- three universities ; scarcely a town of some odd thousand inhabitants is withoutGermany. 39. succinct account of Germany. 219 a lycaeum, where, besides the ancient, the modern languages, history, geography, mathematics, &c. are taught. The people are actually obliged to send their children to school up to a certain age. The national education and medical affairs are not left to chance or free trade, but are everywhere placed undef the care of an especial minister of state. Prussia here takes the lead again. Character of the Germans. — Tacitus, even in his time, praises them for their bravery, good faith, good nature, and chastity. Their bonhommie has been ridiculed by the French, perhaps from their too great simplicity or modesty of deportment, and the negligence they are apt to show to externals. The Southern Germans are perhaps more guilty of this than the Northern, but then they possess more cheerfulness and hilarity, too, than the latter. They are sober, religious, without austerity or show, moral and generous, and of persevering industry and steadiness. With them the most rigid economy must be, and is observed, as, by the old Germanic law of inheritance, property is equally dis- tributed amongst the children. The translator of Schiller’s “ Song of the Bell,” a beautiful picture of German life, lays particular stress upon—“ The serious character of a people, who begin the common business of every-day life with prayer—who attach importance as well to the manner of performing an action, as to the action itself,—the custom of travelling either in their own or in foreign countries, in the interval between the completion of their education and their settlement in life,—the household manners, where great attention is paid to the minutise of domestic economy.” Society is very pleasant, the Germans being frank and sociable, and as, from the constant divisions of property, there are not such vast differences between man and man as elsewhere; most have a little, few too much. Their general information, the resources drawn from their passion for reading (about 8000 books are annually published), their love of music, furnish ample materials for rational entertainment. Perhaps an additional ch&rm of domestic life is the kindly apostrophe of Du (thou), amongst the members of a family, old friends, and school-fellows; which endearing term marks the more intimate circle of society. We conclude with some of the great names in literature and the fine arts. Philosophers: Leibnitz, PufFendort, Kant, Mendelssohn, . Jacobi, Herder, Fichte, Schelling, Hegel. Astronomers: Copernicus, Kepler, Herschel, Olbers, Gauss, Schdtter, L'ittrow. Mathematicians: Euler, Lambert, Vega. Historians and Critics: Johannes von Muller, Niebuhr, Heeren, Rotteck, Ranke; (In art), Winckelmann, Kiigler, Waagen, Von Rumohr. Natu- - ralists: Haller, C. Gessner, Werner, Klaproth, Blumenbach, Gmelin, Hum- boldt, Oken, Mitcherlich, Liebig, Fraunhofer. Lawyers: Hugo, Thibault, Savigny. Humanists : F. A. Wolf, HeyneJ Ernesty, Runkenius, Wytten- bach, Hermann, Bdckh, Muller, Welcker, Forchammer. Theologians: Schleiermacher, Liicke, Nitsch, Olsliausen, Neander, Umbreit, Ewald. Poetry only began to flourish with — Klopstock, 1748, Lessing, Gessner, Wieland, Gleim, Gellert, Voss, Biirger, Utz, Holty, Stolberg, Gothe, Schiller, J. P. Richter, Schlegel, Zschokke, Heine, Tieck, Uhland, Freiligrath, Ruckert. Dead, with the exception of the last four. In Painting, Germany maintains a very respectable position with the fol- lowing names: Lucas Kranach, 1472, Schoreel, A: Diirer, Holbein, Hemling, Rubens, Lingelbach, Ostade, Kraft, Mengs: and the living artists, Overbeck, Rottman, Cornelius, Hess (two), Schnorr, Kriiger, Bendeman, Lessing, Hildebrand, Kaulbach, Steinle, Magnus.220 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. Sculptors are— P. Vischer (1500), Dannecker, Rauch, Tieck, Schaller, and Schwanthaler. As for Music, Germany claims the palm for— the family Bach, Handel, Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Winter, the Rombergs, Fesca, Weigl, Weber, Hummel, Ries, Mendelssohn, Meyer- beer, Spohr, Marscliner, Lindpaintner, Mayseder, Strauss: the last 6 are living composers. German Inventions are— Gunpowder, by Berthold Schwartz at Freiburg, 1348. Watches, by Heele, at Niirnberg, 1510. The air-pump, by Guericke at Magdeburg, 1650. Lithography, by Senefelder, at Munich, 1800. Steam-press, by Konig, 1812. The two greatest blessings Germany conferred upon the rest of Europe are— The Art of Printing, by Gutemberg at Mentz, 1436. The Reformation, by Luther, at Wittenberg, 1517.—A. J. n. For a history of the countries upon the Rhine under the Romans, and during the middle ages, see Vogt, Rheinische Geschichten und Sagen, 3 vols. 8vo. Frankfort-a-M. 1817. 40. SOME PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. A fondness for titles, orders, and high-sounding forms of address, which was ever the characteristic of the Germans, though perhaps less intense than formerly, has by no means yet disappeared. The German is scarcely happy until he can hang a little bit of striped riband from his button-hole, and every effort of in- terest and exertion is made to increase the number of them, and of the crosses and stars which dangle from them. This is the eagerly coveted object of every placeman. “ There are two things,” says the Eckensteher, “ that a Beamte cannot avoid — Death, and the third class of the Red Eagle." At one of the diplomatic meetings, during the Congress at Vienna, when all the members were assembled in the hall of conference, a foreign envoy ap- proached Prince Metternich, and begged him to point out Lord Castlereagh. The Prince indicated to him the English minister, who wore neither star nor ■uniform. “ Comment,” said the doubting diplomatic; “ il n’a pas de decora- tion?’’— “ Ma foi,” replied Prince Metternich, “ e’est bien distingue.” One habit of German society, which cannot fail sometimes to occasion a smile to an Englishman, though -it costs him some trouble to acquire it, is the neces- sity of addressing every body, whether male or female, not by their own name, but by the titles of the office which they hold. To accost a gentleman, as is usual in England, with — Sir (Mein Herr), if not considered among the Germans themselves as an actual insult, is at least not complimentary; it is requisite to find out his office or profession. Madame and Mademoiselle, addressed to German ladies, are equally terms of inferiority. The commonest title to which everybody aspires is that of Councillor (Rath), which is modified and extended by various affixes and prefixes : there is a rath for every ; an advocate a justizrath, &c., &c.; and a person with no profession at all contrives to be made a hofrath (court councillor), a very unmeaning title, which is generally borne by persons who were never in a situation to give advice to the court. The dignity of Staats Rath (privy councillor) is given to members of the administration; some real dignity is at- tached to it, and the persons bearing it are further addressed by the title of excellency. The title Professor is much abused, as it is certainly appropriated by many persons who have no real claim to it by their learning or office. It is better, in conversing with a German, to give a person a rank greater than he is profession : an architect is a baurathGermany. 40. peculiarities op german manners. 221 entitled to than to fall beneath the mark. Geheim rath, for example, is higher than Professor. It is upon this principle that an Englishman is sometimes ad- dressed by the common people, to his great surprise, as Herr Graf (Mr. Count), and often as Euer Gnaden (your grace). “ Every man who holds any public office, should it be merely that of an under clerk, with a paltry salary of 40/. a-year, must be gratified by hearing his title, not his name. Even absent persons, when spoken of, are generally designated by their official titles, however humble and unmeaning they may be. The ladies are not behind in asserting their claims to honorary appellations. All over Germany, a wife insists upon taking the title of her husband', with a femi- nine termination. There is Madame general-ess, madame privy-councillor-ess, madame daybook-keeper-ess, and a hundred others.”—Russkl. Read and see Kotzebue’s amusing ridicule of this, in his Comedy called, Die Deutschen Kleinstadter. These titles sometimes extend to an almost unpronounceable length; only think, for instance, of addressing a lady as, Frau Oberconsistorialdirectorin (Mrs. Directress of the Upper Consistory Court). This may be avoided, how- ever, but substituting the words gnadige Frau (gracious madame), in addressing a lady. It must at the same time be observed, that this fondness for titles, and especially for the prefix von (of, equivalent to the French de, and originally de- noting the possessor of an estate), is, to a certain extent, a vulgarity, from which the upper classes of German society are free. The rulers of Germany take ad- vantage of the national vanity, and lay those upon whom they confer the rank under obligation; while they, at the same time, levy a tax upon the dignity proportionate to its elevation ; thus a mere Hofrath pays from 30 to 40 dollars annually, and the higher dignities a more considerable sum. If, however, the title is acquired by merit, no tax is paid, but merely a contribution to a fund for the widows and children of the class. Certain forms and titles are also prefixed on the address of a letter; thus a Count of the high nobility and ancient empire must be addressed Erlauclit (Illustrious); a Count of the lesser noblesse, Hoch-geborener-Herr (high-born Sir); a baron and a minister, even though not of a noble birth, is called Hoch- wohlgeboren; a merchant or roturier must content himself with being termed "Wohl-(well)geboren, while Hoch-edel (high-noble) is ironically applied to tradesmen. [It may be useful to observe, that should the traveller be present at any fete or reception given by one of royal blood, and not be prepared to appear in uniform, or in full court costume, black will be correct dress: blue coats with metal buttons, white waistcoats, nankeen trousers,'&c., will be quite incorrect: black is admissible, under the presumption that the party is in mourning______5.) At some courts (Wiirtemberg especially) black is not admitted, except during a court mourning: when this is the case, any one desirous of being presented to a reigning prince, should pay a visit to the head chamberlain, and request to be presented privately, in which case he may wear any evening or dinner dress he pleases. “ In one respect, in Germany, I think politeness is carried too far — I mean in the perpetual act of pulling off the hat. Speaking ludicrously of it, it really becomes expensive, for, with a man who has a large acquaintance in any public place, his hat is never two minutes at rest. The first instance of this practice that struck me forcibly occurred at Wietendorf. Mr.----------came in contact with hi9 inspector, or steward, as we call him here, and each of their heads was instantly uncovered. The next was at Dobberan, when 1 entered a mercer’s shop with Baron B. The baron took his hat off respectfully to the shopkeeper before he told him what he wanted at his shop. I found it to be the general custom; and222 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. more than once I saw mechanics and labourers saluting each other in the way I have described.”—Nimrod’s Letters from Holstein. A curious instance of the extent to which this practice of bowing is carried occurred to the writer in a small provincial town in the south of Germany. At the entrance of the public promenade in the Grande Place, he observed notices painted on boards, which at first he imagined to contain some police regulations, or important order of the magistracy of the town; upon perusal, however, it proved to be an ordonnance to this effect:—“ For the convenience of promenaders, it is particularly requested that the troublesome custom of saluting by taking off the hat should here be dispensed with.” It is not to friends alone that it is necessary to doff the hat, for if the friend with whom you are walking meets an acquaintance, to whom he takes off his hat, you must do the same, even though you never saw him before. German civility, however, does not consist in outward forms alone, and a traveller will do well to conform, as soon as possible, to the manners of the country, even down to the mode of salutation, troublesome as it is. If he con- tinue unbending, he will be guilty of rudeness: and on entering any public Office, even the office of the sclinellposts, the underlings of the place, down to the book-keeper, will require him to take off his hat, if he does it not of his own qccord. An English traveller repaired to the police-office at Berlin to have his passport signed, and, having waited half an hour, said to the secretary to whom he had delivered it, “ Sir, I think you have forgotten my passport." “ Sir,” replied the man. of office, “ I think you have forgotten your hat I” In thus recommending to travellers the imitation of certain German customs, it is not meant, be it observed, to insist on the practice prevalent among the German men of saluting their male friends with a kiss on each side of the cheek. It is not a little amusing to observe this, with us feminine, mode of greeting, exchanged between' two whiskered and mustachioed giants of the age of 50 or 60. “ Smoking is a most important branch of the business of life of almost every German of every condition; and to say the truth, I am rather inclined to think it a good thing for the common people. If they did not smoke, they would probably drink more.”— Lord Dudley. Universal as is the practice of smoking throughout Germany, it is entirely prohibited by the police in the streets-of the great capitals; and persons ignorant of this regulation, or wilfully infringing it, are often stopped by the sentinels on duty, and compelled to remove the pipe or cigar from their mouths. Public Gardens and Taverns_____The outskirts of every German town abound in gardens and houses of public recreation, whither the inhabitants, not merely of the lower orders, but of the most respectable classes also, repair on summer afternoons, and especially on Sunday, to breathe the fresh air and forget the cares of business in the enjoyment of coffee, ices, beer, and the never-absent pipe. A band of excellent music is not wanting; indeed it forms the great attraction, and is usually advertised in the papers for a day or two before-hand: it performs for the entertainment of high and low, and the exciting tones of the waltz seldom fail to originate a dance, in which the citizens' wives and daughters, with their husbands and sweethearts, whirl round for hours in the dizzy maze. It is true the time when these places are most frequented, and when the music and dancing are kept up with the greatest spirit, is the Sunday afternoon, which may, perhaps, shock the feelings of an English or Scotchman, accustomed to the rigorous Sabbath-keeping of his own country. A dispassionate examina- tion, however, of the two systems, and of the effects produced by each, will probably induce him to pause before he gives unqualified approbation and pre- ference to that of his own country.223 Germany. 40. peculiarities of german manners. These places of amusement do not open till after the hours of morning service in the churches, and most of the persons who resort to them have previously attended a church. A large portion are tradesmen who have been shut up in their shops, and artisans who have been working hard all the week. They come in their best clothes, and accompanied by wives and families, wlio, be it observed, are always made parties in these amusements; they content themselves with coffee, beer, or wine, in moderate quantities; spirits are never seen, and instances of noisy turbulence and drunkenness are almost unknown on these occasions. Such recreation, even with the mirthful exercise of dancing superadded, is surely harmless in comparison with the solitary orgies of the pot-house and gin-shop, to which the same class of persons but too often devote their Sundays in our country, squandering in loathsome intemperance the earnings of the week, which ought to be devoted to the wants of the starving and neglected wife and family, who are left behind in their close and miserable home. A certain intercourse and intermixture, also, is kept up between the upper and lower classes at these meetings, which cannot fail to have an advantageous influence in the relation between the different members of German society. The artisan does not jostle his superiors, or strive to imitate their dress and appearance, nor is he looked down upon as an intruder by them. All classes, high and low, mix together on an equal footing and without restraint. The fact is, in Germany, perhaps more than in any other country, not only the privileges of nobility, bu t of all grades, are so clearly understood, and kept distinct, that all parties, however intimate they may seem to be in public, know the exact bound* aries of their position in society, and act accordingly; hence the noble feels at ease, and is Conscious that his urbanity will not be abused; and the rest are in- fluenced by a similar feeling.- Kirmes.—“The Germans are not ashamed of being pleased with trifles, nor Of being pleased in very humble company ; they think only whether they enjoy ; and, if their enjoyment costs little money and little trouble, so much the better. They love their old customs and traditional festivals much better than we do, and keep to them more faithfully. Formerly, in England, many days were days not only of religious observance, but of festivity for the people ; and each had its appropriate shows and pastimes: but these are nearly all forgotten, and the few which are remembered are turned into days of importunate begging,, or. coarse riot; and the pleasures are such as people of refinement and taste can take no share in, nor love to witness: and thus they sink lower and lower, and the chasm between rich and poor grows wider and wider, for want of some common enjoyment to which the high might give order and refinement, and the low cor- diality and simplicity : and such an enjoyment is Kirmes.” “ A yearly festival is held in every village, when the poor people, who work hard all the year, meet together as on a Sunday, go to church together in their gayest clothes, and then make merry and enjoy themselves. It was, originally, the anniversary of the day on which the village church was consecrated;—[in some parts of Germany it is called Kirch Weih, the dedication of the church; j —but, as it was found that these anniversaries often fell at inconvenient times for the country people, they are, by common consent, held in autumn, just after the vintage. At this joyous season the country people are in high spirits, and have more leisure, and rather fuller purses than usual, and are well disposed to rejoice together in the blessing of their harvest. Every morning gay parties walk about on those beautiful hills, and those who can afford it dine at the inns, at every one of which is an excellent table d’hote at 1 o’clock and, after a merry dinner and a cup of coffee, they adjourn to the ball-room. The Kirmes at considerable villages draws people from all the towns and villages for miles and miles round; the tablos-d'hote, as well as the balls, are of several degrees, so that even the224 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect, III. poorest peasants may sit down to a good and social dinner adapted to their humble means. In the small villages there is most likely only one inn, and consequently only one table d’hote ; but almost all have more than one ball-room, even though the village consists but of a few poor cottages. This ball-room is often a large shed without windows, but always with an excellent floor, and a little orchestra at one end : and this, when lighted up, and filled with happy faces, and with such a company of musicians as many a fashionable assembly in. England cannot boast, is no despicable scene of festivity.” ******** “ I have nothing to tell you about the beauty and grace [of the rustic dancers], except that they had none ; they had, however, cheerfulness and perfect absence of affectation, which are always agreeable. The kind and familiar deportment* of their superiors inspires them with such confidence that they never seem to conceive that their innocent pleasures can excite disgust or ridicule ; and you may be sure they take care not to do anything which may drive away those who share in their amusements. * * * The scene of the ball-room was one of hearty enjoyment; but I saw not the slightest approach to rudeness, indecorum, or drunkenness : it was the merriment of people who feel that others have a good opinion of them, and an interest in their comfort.”—A Letter from. Bonn. The Turnpikeman. — A characteristic feature of the German character is the love of warmth in their clothes and habitations, and an unwillingness to expose themselves to the air. This effeminacy prevails even among the lower orders, who seem to breathe with reluctance when removed from the favourite atmo- sphere of their stoves, their tobacco smoke, and the fumes of their beer. It is shown in the great unwillingness which an Englishman experiences, on the part of his fellow-passengers in the cabins of steamers, and in public coaches, to allow a window to be open, even in warm weather; but it is most characteristically exhibited in an ingenious contrivance by which the turnpike-keeper avoids the necessity of leaving his chimney-corner, or exposing more than the extremity of his nose to the cold. A scene like the following occurs at the barriere in some parts of Germany : — “ On the horses stopping, which they seemed most loyally to do of their own accord, the person whose office it was to collect this road- money, or chaussee-gelt, in process of time appeared at a window with a heavy pipe hanging in his mouth, and in his hand an immense long stick, to the end of which there was affixed a small box containing a ticket, in exchange for which I silently dropped my money into this till. Not a word was spoken, but, with the gravity of an angler, the man having drawn in his rod, a whiff of tobacco was vomited from his mouth, and then the window, like the transaction—closed.” — Bubbles from the Brunnen. TYavrlling Journeymen, or Handwerks-Burschen. —.No one can travel along any of the great roads in Germany, without meeting, almost at every mile, a number of young men journeying on foot. The characteristics of the class are, a pipe in the mouth without fail, and generally a stick in the hand, with an enormous knapsack on the back, from the sides of which a pair of boots are usually seen to project. They are often respectably dressed, wearing a blouse (smockfrock), and having their hats carefully covered with an oil-skin, so that the traveller is sur- prised when, as his carriage comes in sight, they take off their hats, and com- mence begging for alms. These are wandering journeymen ; they are often not undeserving objects of charity ; and a German will generally put a few kreutzers or groschen in the cap which is held out, to help the owner on his way. By an ancient regulation prevailing very generally throughout Germany and Switzerland, no apprentice can obtain his freedom and become a master until he has passed a certain number of years in travelling, and in exercising his callingGermany. 41. german 'watering-places. - 225 in foreign parts. The intention of this is, that he should gain experience in his craft, and learn the methods practised in other countries besides his own, as well as some knowledge of the world. When he first sets out, he receives from the corporation or trade to which he belongs, a book in which he keeps a diary, of his wanderings (wanderbuch), and in which those from whom he may receive employment also write certificates of good and bad conduct. As soon as the novice reaches a place where he proposes to stop, he applies to the members of his own trade, and shows his credentials. If work is to be had he takes up his residence till it is finished ; if not, he is provided with clean straw and a roof to shelter him, with now and then the scanty pittance of a kreutzer or two from the funds of the guild, and next morning must trudge forward on his way to some other place where his services may be wanted. It will easily be understood that if work is scarce, and the apprentice have nothing of his own, he must often be reduced to great straits, and com- pelled to have recourse to the charity of the more wealthy : fechten, literally to fight, struggle, is with the journeymen the slang phrase for begging. (See Gdthe’s Wilhelm Meister.) Though there are many inducements to idleness in this system, it is not sur- prising that it produces a most intelligent set of tradesmen. The writer of this has frequently conversed with common shoemakers and bakers, speaking 3 or 4 different languages, well informed as to the state of most of the countries of Eu- rope, and possessing a general fund of knowledge far superior to what is found in persons of the same class in England. When the period of their wanderings (wanderschaft) is expired, the apprentice returns home, produces a specimen of his skill, and, if it is approved of, receives bis freedom, and is allowed to set up for himself. 41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. With the Germans an excursion to a watering-place in the summer is essen- tial to existence, and the necessity of such a visit is confined to no one class in particular, but pervades all, from emperors and princes down to tradesmen and citizens’ wives. The number of bathing places and mineral springs in Germany alone now amounts to several hundred : and every year adds to the list names, which, though seldom heard in England, are not without their little sets and coteries. The royal and imperial guests repair to them not merely to get rid of the trammels and pomp of sovereignty, though it is universally the case that they move about with no more show than private individuals, but they also seek such occasions for holding private congresses, for forming secret treaties, alliances, &c.; family arrangements and matrimonial connections are also not unfrequently here concocted. The minister repairs thither to refresh himself from the toils of office, but usually brings his portfolio in his travelling carriage, nor does he altogether even here bid adieu to intrigue and politics. The invalid comes to recruit his strength — the debauchee to wash himself inside and out, and string his nerves for a fresh campaign of dissipation — the shopkeeper and the merchant come to spend their money and gaze on their betters, and the sharper and black- leg, who swarm at all the baths, to enrich themselves at the gaming-tables at the seem naturally grouped according to the volcanic soil or other peculiarities of the mountain chains near which most of them are situate. The principal groups are the following : A. The Cis-Rhenane Baths, round the Eifel and its cognate hills, the Ar- dennes, viz., 1. Aix-la-Chapelle, or Aachen; 2. Burtscheid, or Borcette; S. Bertrich, near the Moselle; 4. Kreutznach, on the Nahe. expense of their fellow guests. The watering-places in Germany226 41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. Sect. III. Spa, the German Spa par excellence* is hardly to be counted, as it is now no longer in Germany. B. The Baths of the Taunus, round which they circle in Nassau and Hesse, viz., 5. Ems; 6. Schwalbach; 7. Schlangenbad; 8. Wiesbaden ; 9. Weilbach ; 10. Soden; 11. Selters Fachingen (waters); 12. Homburg; 13. Nauheim; 14. Wilhelmsbad. C. The Baths of Franconia, at the foot of the Rhbngebirge, viz., 15. Briick- enau; 16. Kissingen; 17. Bocklet. D. The Baths of the Black Forest, viz. 18. Baden-Baden; 19. Wildbad; 20. Rippoldsau; 21. Cannstadt. E. The Baths of Bohemia, viz., 22. Carlsbad; 23. Marienbad,— Liebe- werda; 24. Franzensbrun, or Eger; 25. Tbplitz. F. The Baths of Silesia, viz. 26. Charlottenbrunn ; 27. Warmbrunn ; 28. Landeck, county of Glatz; 29. Reinerz, county of Glatz. (Grafenberg- Wassercur? Austrian Silesia). G. The Baths of the Alps, vjz. 30. Gastein ; 31. Ischl; 32. Baden, near Vienna; 33. Heilbrunn, Bavaria; 34. Kreuth, Bavaria. . H. The Baths of Westphalia and Central Germany, viz. 35. Driburg; 36. Py.rmont; 37. Eilsen; 38. Hof-Geismar; 39. Neundorf: 40. Rehburg; 41. Alexisbad. . I. Sea Baths, viz., 42. Norderney and Wanger Oge (Heligoland); 43. Dob- beran; 44. Travemunde; 45. Putbus; 46. Swinemiinde. Carlsbad, Tbplitz, and Briickenau are the resort of emperors and kings; Baden and Ems of grand dukes, princes, and high nobility. Wiesbaden is a sort of Margate, wbither the overflowing population of Frankfurt repairs on Sunday afternoon ; whilst other Baths, like Schlangenbad, Kissingen, are fre- quented by those whose business is to be cured, and who are strenuously endea- vouring, by a few weeks of abstinence and exercise, to relieve themselves from the effects of over-eating and drinking. About the end of May the annual migration begins ; in June the whole re- spectable population of Germany may be said to be in motion ; July is usually the height of the season; the baths are then crammed, and it is necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand. There is but little fluctuation till the end of August; then the tide of visiters begins to ebb ; but if September be fine, many linger behind ; and a few remain till the end of October, unless a succes- sion of rainy weather put them to flight earlier. “ The effect of this natural passion for periodical bathing is, that throughout Germany, the Kurzeit (curing-time — season) of the baths, about three months in the summer, forms that sort of general break-up, to use a familiar phrase, in the system of town life, which the rising of Parliament and the pursuit of par- tridges and pheasants effects in the season of the British capital. The eapitals of the princes are deserted—court entertainments cease — the ambassadors and general officers obtain leave of absence from their posts — ‘ the weary states- man’ quits his bureau, and the merchant his counting-house, and the cumbrous retinue of the princes and their courts are put in motion about the month Of July for some favourite scene of picturesque beauty — where nature has placed her fountains of health amidst the wildest and most beautiful features of landscape— as if to mark out the spot at once for the solace and invigoration of the sick and debilitated, and the recreation and indulgence of the sons of pleasure and of toil. During three months, all that is distinguished in Germany is busied in the pursuit of health and dissipation at Toplitz, Carlsbad, Baden, Pyrmont, Wiesbaden, Ems, Schwalbach, and Aix-la-Chapelle. Festivity and forgetfulness of care are the general order of the day. State, and ceremony, and titled hauteur, are in a great degree thrown aside in the easy intercourse of the bathing-place; all ranks meet at the balls, the concerts, the saloons, and theGermany. 41. german watering-places. 227 wells. The prince arid the tradesman lay down their stakes side by side at the Rouge-et- Noir table. A princess does not disdain a donkey-ride on the moun- tains, and a sovereign duke may be seen at the table-d’hote side by side with a merchant or subaltern officer. All the machinery of amusement is to be found here — all the artists and artificers that contribute to the enjoyments and the follies of indulgence — actors from Vienna — gaming-table keepers and cooks from Paris — money-lenders from Frankfort — singers from Berlin — shop- keepers, voituriers, pastry-cooks, mountebanks, dancing-masters, donkey-lenders, black-legs, mistresses, lacqueys — all bustling and contriving in their several vocations to reap the short harvest of profit which the season affords. The scene of bustling and vivacity, occasioned by the concentration of several thousands of gay strangers, the greater part of some style and consideration,' with all the proportionate cortege of accessaries and dependents, in a little village of five hundred inhabitants, maybe easily imagined — the arrivals, the equi- pages, the varied costumes and physiognomies of different nations — the uni- forms, the decorations, the crowded promenades, the tables, the balls, the fetes champetres, the theatres, the concerts, and the effect of all this revelling and ex- uberant dissipation, infinitely heightened by the scene being laid in some deep sylvan valley, where the silence and serene beauty of nature contrasts strongly with the artificial enjoyments and agitating pursuits of the busy denizens. Perhaps you will think that the mere circumstance of nature having so lavishly bestowed on the Germans these Hygeian fountains, with their picturesque scenes, is of itself a sufficient cause to account for the fondness with which they are fre- quented. But other causes will be probably found. The pleasures of a country life are as yet almost unknown in Germany ; those mingled pleasures of enjoy- ment of scenery and rural beauties, domestic tranquillity and fire-side comforts, which so many of our own poets have enthusiastically described, and which every Englishman relishes.' With the exception of the chateaux of a few nobles, and the villas near a few mercantile towns, a gentleman’s country-house is hardly to be seen in Germany. The picturesque scenes, which are so abundant, never appear habited or habitable. Nature has here always a character of wild- ness and loneliness. The Germans likewise have no one great capital, possessing all those attractions which a metropolis affords. The provincial townsman has no Paris or London to fly to for amusement or change of scene. The summer season at the baths is thus the great object of desire, the rendezvous of friends, the indulgence to the young, and the relaxation of the busy and the care-worn. * “ Gaiety has a more decided character at a German watering-place—pleasure is more the avowed business of everybody, and if ennui may be the motive of as many visits to Aix-la-Chapelle, as to similar places in Great Britain, the remedy here appears more successful: for you can rarely read in a single countenance, as you so often may in the libraries of Brighton or Cheltenham, the inveterate disease of which persons come to be cured. The system of the day commences with a bath, taken before breakfast. Afterwards follow excursions in the en- virons, walks in the gardens, visits to the cafes and billiard-rooms, and, above all, the pleasures of the Redoubt, or Grand Saloon, which occupy the gay world till dinner, 2 or 3. This last-mentioned place of rendezvous is the greatest centre of attraction ; and, with the exception of much more gaiety, more avowed vice, and the absence of all pretence at rational resources, acts the part of the library at an English watering-place. The Redoubt is a large handsome build- ing, the ground-floor open, with a colonnade in front, appropriated to prints, toy-shops, &c.‘ After, depositing your hat and stick with the gens d'armes at the door, you enter the grand saloon—invariably a splendid room. On one side a crowd of motley, but well-dressed and gay-looking persons (T regret to say of both sexes), are pressing over each other’s heads, round large banks of Rovge-et-228 41. WATERING-PLACES. GAMING-HOUSES. Sect. ITT. ATot7. An anxious silence reigns, only interrupted by the rattling of the roulette, the jingling of the Napoleons and francs, and the titters and jokes of the few whose speculations are a matter of mere frolic. The play is frequently very high, hut the hank does cot refuse the stake of a solitary franc. Pretty in- teresting women were putting down their Napoleons, and seeing them swept away, or drawing them in doubled, with a sang froid which proved that they were no novices in that employment.”—Autumn near the Rhine. These German assembly-rooms are usually the property of the sovereign of the state in whose territory the watering-place is situated, and the gaming- houses are tolerated by him, upon the principle that, as it is almost impossible to prevent the scandal altogether, it is better to control it by taking such esta- blishments under his own surveillance, and to render them beneficial to the country by levying a high tax on them, than to prohibit them entirely. The Licensed Gaming-Houses at the German watering-places are a disgrace and shame to the minor princes, who not only tolerate them, but derive revenue from granting the permission, to the destruction of morality and honesty among their own subjects, as well as among thousands of strangers. The Austrian and Prussian governments are a noble exception, prohibiting all gaming within their dominions. English travellers should be placed especially on their guard against the sharpers who haunt the continental watering-places. The chances of being robbed are much greater than was formerly the case in Paris, as none of the precautionary measures are taken to prevent cheating in Germany. The princes who tolerate such a system must be content to bear the reproach of avarice and cupidity. In 1834, one company, consisting principally of French- men ejected from Paris since the suppression of public gambling there, had taken upon speculation, for a term of years, the Redoutes and rooms at Wies- baden, Ems, and Baden-Baden, furnishing and managing at the same time restaurants, theatres, and ball-rooms, and providing music upon the public walks. The gaming-tables were understood to be their principal source of profit. The evening’s entertainment concludes with a ball once or twice a week. A gentleman may ask any lady to dance, without the formality of being presented to her; but this kind of introduction does not entitle him to approach her as an acquaintance on future'occasions when he may meet her. To be properly enjoyed, a German, like an English watering-place, should be visited in company with friends, and there is little society to be found out of your own circle ; so that a solitary traveller, after having gazed about him for a day or two, will commonly not hesitate to take flight, in order to escape from ennui. This work does not pretend to describe the medical properties and sanatory powers of the various mineral springs; those who repair to them with a view of taking the waters or the baths should consult their own physician before leaving home. It is also prudent and customary to ask the advice of the physician resident at the baths as well, before commencing a course of waters. Physicians' Fees — “ If a patient is attended at a watering-place during the whole four or five weeks of which the ‘ course ’ of bathing and drinking com- monly consists, 10 thalers is a sufficient fee for the whole attendance, and is usually paid at parting. If the doctor is consulted only once or twice, lj to-2 thalers is the proper fee for each visit.”— H. T. 20 S. gros. is the highest sum allowed by the Prussian tariff as a medical fee. The mode and extent of using the waters, whether internally or externally, can only be regulated by a medical man acquainted with the case and constitution of each person; but there are a few general rules mentioned by Dr. Granville, which it will be useful to insert, from their universal application: the waterGermany. 41. watering-places. 42. music. 229 should be drunk on an empty stomach, and a short walk should be taken between each draught, but violent exercise is to be avoided. The baths, also, should never be taken after eating, and during bathing a strict attention to diet is advisable. Tea, pastry, acids, vegetables, fruit, and cheese should be avoided, and but little should be eaten at each meal. Wine, if light, may be sparingly used; but the beer of the country, or Seltzer-water, are preferable beverages. Those who travel in a party with the intention of repairing to any fashionable watering-place, in the height of the season, should not omit to write beforehand either to the keeper of some hotel, the bad-meister, or the physician, to secure rooms for them, if they wish to avoid the inconvenience of finding, on their arrival, that every bed and room in the place are engaged, an occurrence by no means unfrcquent. 42. music. “ Music naturally makes too large a figure in the expectations of many pleasure- travellers to be passed over here ; the more so because what they will find, and where they will find it, have not been stated with any completeness, fair compari- son, or adequate knowledge of the subject since the days of Burney ; and he wrote at a period when German music had hardly taken its peculiar form and colour. “ The tourist will find an Opera in almost every town ; its prices of admission moderate, and its performances on the average very good as regards orchestra and chorus. The musical establishments of Berlin, Dresden, Hamburgh, Brunswick, Frankfort, Cassel, and Hanover, are the most eminent among those within the range of this volume. Most of the above theatres are court-de- pendencies, presided over by composers of some note, and implying life-appoint- ments for the principal artists engaged. Hence very mature vocalists are a phenomenon more common than engaging. Further, the preference.of the gene- ral public for translated Italian or French musical dramas, and the limited number of classical German operas which keep the stage (a dozen at most), — add to this the admitted disregard of many among the classical composers for the refinements of vocal science, — have destroyed the possibility of a school of singing being formed; and kept that branch of art at a level, the lowness and unrefinement of which will strike ears used to Italian and French execution. One or two of the master-works of Gluck-, Beethoven, Weber, Mozart, and Spohr, however, in most cases, form a nominal part of every theatrical repertory. The summer and autumn are generally ‘ the flat seasons ’ of Opera in the large towns, — save in cases like the Frankfort and Leipzig fairs, where the managers endeavour to secure some great attraction to entertain the concourse of guests expected. The traveller, however, has always the chance of encountering some favourite singer or actor on ‘ a starring ’ excursion : or, as they phrase it in Germany, playing gast- rollen. It was not thought strange in recent years for the fanatico who longed to hear any particular opera in the theatrical repertory of a given town to adver- tise his wishes in the local newspaper, — of course in a complimentary fashion,— with a fair chance of their being acceded to within a few days. In orchestral music the Germans are generally far in advance of all other people. This pleasure too is more easily accessible than in any other country ; — it is best' to be enjoyed in the late autumn and winter, when the world of artists and au- diences has come home ‘ from the baths.’ The Symphonic Concerts of Berlin, and the subscription concerts at the Gewand Haus of Leipzig, will give the tourist the ‘ true reading’ of the works of the great German symphonists, and afford him also a chance of hearing the best solo players, home and foreign. They are also of a wise brevity, as compared with our more cumbrous and costly entertainments. The * high places ’ of chamber-music were recently Berlin, Leipzig, and230 42. MUSIC. 43. GERMAN TOWNS. Sect. III. Brunswick, each of which towns possessed a resident quartett of stringed instru- mentalists, possessing very high renown. But all periodical music is more or less interrupted by the fine weather, which tempts the world from home. “ From June till September the tourist has the chance of falling in with some celebration or festival, akin to our own provincial ‘ music meetings,’ but different, inasmuch as the chorus mainly consists of amateurs. These meetings are, on the average, interesting in the music selected, excellent as regards execution, from the heartiness, zeal, and patience in co-operation which pervade it, and most pleasantly social. It is the fault of bad English manners, if any Englishman, having claims on the good society of his own country, finds himself ‘ a stranger amongst strangers ’ on'these occasions; — a very slight introduction (and of course some power of communication) securing him a good-natured welcome. Those who winter in Berlin will of course make an effort to attend the meetings of the Sing Academie. This may be called the best and most renowned amateur vocal society in Europe, and its members occasionally, for purposes of charity, give public performances on a grand scale. Gentlemen, too, will do well to gain access to such meetings of the Lieder-tafel societies as may fall in their way. These are singing parties of gentlemen only, who execute the part-music of German composers with great spirit and energy , both the music and the execution calcu- lated, by their difference of style, especially to interest those who care for glees and madrigals at home. “ The best orchestral mass, probably, now to be heard in Europe, is that performed in the cathedral at Cologne. — The organs in Dresden, in the Sophieti Kirche, the Catholic Church, and one or two others — built by the Silbermanns, are well worth an effort to hear. “ Lastly, for those who search less scientifically than the traveller to whom the above hints are addressed, most attractive cheap music abounds in Germany. Al- most every town has its Casino or private subscription club:—its pleasure garden, and other public resorts, to which every one is admitted ; where a good band, often of wind-instruments alone, may be heard to play good music to good company, for a very small price of entrance. And these unpretending concerts (the very absence of pretension of which is an evidence of popular taste, as distinct from fashion) are sometimes diversified by very fair quartett singing. For the cha- racteristic of German musical execution is that generally every one occupied in its production takes pains in its production because he likes it. — In most of the above matters the traveller has better chance of gaining available and precise in- formation from the landlord of his hotel than in the place where he would natu- rally seek it — at the music-shop. The want of accuracy and backwardness as regards the amusements of the day, to be complained of on the part of those managing the latter establishments, will often puzzle and inconvenience a prompt and impatient Englishman.” — H. F. C. 43. GERMAN TOWNS. Fire-watch. — The highest tower or steeple of a German town is usually occupied by sentinels, who are continually on the look-out, night and day, to discover and give the alarm of fire as soon as it breaks out in any quarter. These guardians of the public safety are called the Fire-watch; and this police regulation prevails almost all over Germany, where, from the general use of wood as a building material, fires are both more frequent and more destructive than in England; where, however, some such provision is highly desirable. The destruction of a whole town or village by conflagration is no uncommon occurrence in Germany; witness the fearful conflagration of Hamburg in 1842. In 1834, the town of Wienerisch-NeustadUwas totally consumed; out of 400Germany. 43. GERMAN TOWNS. 231 houses, 14 alone escaped being reduced to ashes. The intelligence of a fire is conveyed to the town by the firing of cannon, and the quarter is indicated by holding out a flag by day, or a lantern at night, in the direction in which it has been seen. The following account of the proceedings on the occasion of a fire breaking out in a German town (Salzburg) is extracted from the note-book of a traveller. “ After dinner, as we were sittiug quietly in our room, T-----------writing his journal, 1 listening to the thunder, which, with the rain that accompanied it, had had the effect of detaining us within doors, when on a sudden we were startled by the louder and nearer report of 2 cannon shots, the signal of a fire in the suburbs, beyond the river. We seized our hats and rushed out; the smoke had hardly curled off from the cannon (those invariable ornaments of almost every Austrian town) in the Grand Place, where our hotel stands; yet we found every one already in motion, scampering to and fto, in the house and out of the house; some were getting out the engine, others were dragging towards it a pair of horses which had been ready harnessed for a vetturino’s carriage, and those not so employed, both male and female, were hurrying forward to the spot. Some bore leather buckets, others carried little tubs fastened to the end of a pole, so as to form a kind of ladle on a large scale, in their hands, in compliance with the regulations of the police, which compels all the townspeople, high and low, to render assistance on such occasions, either personally, or, in the case of the rich, by sending their servants and horses. We joined the throng of shop- keepers and labourers, who, having quitted their various occupations, were hastening to the scene of the conflagration: it was about 2 miles off, and the streets leading to it were so narrow that a wheelbarrow would almost suffice to block them up. Every now and then the clattering of hoofs and rattling of wheels announced the approach of an engine, and sent the crowd flying right and left; those who were not so fortunate as to squeeze themselves into some hole or corner ran the risk at least of having their toes run over. Several officers also passed us at full gallop, showing their zeal by hastening to the spot without their cloaks, in spite of the rain; and one or two companies of infantry and cavalry followed them as fast as their horses or their feet could carry them. After them came the commandant of the town himself, who, though a general officer of high rank, directed the operations, with the minuteness of an officer of police.” Besides the precaution of the fire-guardian posted on the steeple, the streets are constantly perambulated at night by a watchman, who chants in a doleful tone a few admonitory couplets of doggrel, addressed to all fathers of families, whether sleeping Or waking, recommending them to be on their guard against fire, and ending with a caution to look sharp after their wives and daughters. The Woodcutters. —“ In walking the streets of a German town, a provoking circumstance is, that frequently a third part, or even a half of the street, is rendered useless by heaps of wood, the fuel of the inhabitants. The wood is brought into the city in large pieces, from 3 to 4 feet long. A waggon load of these logs is laid down in the street, at the door of the purchaser, to be sawn and split into smaller pieces, before being deposited in his cellar. When this occurs, as it often does, at every third or fourth door, the street just loses so much of its breadth. Nothing remains but the centre, and that is constantly swarming with carriages, and carts, and barrows. The pedestrian must either wind himself through among their wheels or clamber over successive piles of wood, or patiently wait till the centre of the street becomes passable for a few yards. To think of doubling the wooden promontory without this precaution is far from being safe. You have scarcely, by a sudden spring, saved your shoulders from the pole of a carriage, when a wheelbarrow makes a similar232 Sect. III. 44. CLUBS AND READING ROOMS. attack on your legs. You make spring the second, and, in all probability, your head comes in contact with the uplifted hatchet of a woodcutter. The wheel- barrows seem to be the best off. Tiiey till such a middle rank between bipeds and quadrupeds, that they lay claim to the privileges of both, and hold on their way rejoicing, commanding respect equally from men and. horses.” — Russel’s Tour. 44. CLUBS AMD BEADING ROOMS. In all the principal German towns, Societies corresponding nearly with a London club, and known by such names as the Casino, Museum, Harmonie, or the like, are to be found. “ They are very rational establishments, fitted up with a commodious elegance, which make their resources doubly attractive. The reading-rooms are stocked with a profusion of journals, reviews, and pam- phlets, literary and political, from all parts of Germany; besides the French, and sometimes English and Italian newspapers. There is often a library of books of reference, and a conversation room, where talkative quidnuncs may be relieved from the silence prescribed in the reading-rooms, besides billiard-tables and card-rooms, and sometimes a good table-d’hote provided by a restaurateur of the establishment. The assembly-rooms, which form part of the edifice, are only open on occasions of balls, concerts, and evening societies: to these ladies are admitted, and they are kept sacred from the fumes of tobacco, which fre- quently perfume and tinge the other handsome apartments. The casinos are supported by subscriptions, — noblesse and bourgeoisie, excluding common tradesmen, being alike members. A foreign traveller obtains easy access to them by means of his banker, and very often through the landlord of his hotel, and finds much sociable respectability, as well as convenience and resources in them.” —■ Autumn near the Rhine. 45. GERMAN BURIAL-GROUNDS. One of the peculiarities which distinguish Germany from England is the different light in which the abodes of the dead are regarded by the living. Before a traveller completes his survey of a German town, it will not be unpro- fitable or uninteresting to visit the public burial-grcund — the “court of peace,” or “ God’s Acre,” to give the German names literally translated. In England, the churchyard is generally a small space in the precincts of the church, which is regarded as little else than a passage leading to it; or where it is separated, as it happens in many of our populous cities, it is a large enclosure overgrown with weeds and rank grass, which would indicate that it was “ by the world forgot,” except for the high walls, which serve the double purpose of keeping out nightly depredators (almost the only class who take an interest in its con- tents), and of screening the hateful object from the sight of the rest of the world. The French appear to introduce the national frivolity even into their burial-grounds, and have given to Pere-la-Chaise the air of a cimetiere oraee which is hardly befitting the silent city of the dead. In Germany the public cemetery is a spot in which the community seems to take much interest. It is a place of public resort at all hours,—its gates stand Always open. It is planted with a few trees, so that its aspect may not be altogether cheerless; but it is more thickly planted with crosses, gravestones, and monuments congregated together, thick as a forest, slowly advancing foot by foot, year after year, to occupy all the vacant space. The inventions of the mason and carpenter in fashioning a tombstone rarely go beyond a cross or an urn, a broken pillar or stone sarco- phagus ; the grave of the soldier is sometimes marked by a sword or helmet;Germany. 45. GERMAN BURIAL-GROUNDS. 233 but there are other tokens of honour and respect which show a continuance of attention on the part of the living. Gravestones of various shapes, with lengthy epitaphs, are common among us: here, however, the more touching and trust- worthy symptoms of continued recollection are every where observed in the fresh chaplet or nosegay, the little border of flowers newly dug, the basin of holy water, all placed by the side of the funereal hillock. At one end of the enclosure is usually a cloister or arcade, under which repose, beneath more sumptuous monuments, the rich and the noble. Communicating with it also is generally a building where the bodies of the dead are placed, in conformity with a police regulation adopted in most German towns, within 12 hours after death. At the appointed time the dead-cart calls at the door of high or low; and the only distinction made is, that the former repose in an apartment better fitted, hung with black, and lighted by a dismal lamp. In this gloomy chamber, the dead bodies, deposited in their coffins, await the time appointed for interment. In many places, particularly at Frankfurt, a peculiar precaution is adopted to guard against the accident of burial in cases of suspended animation. The fingers of the prostrate corpse are placed in the loops of a string or bell-rope attached to an alarm clock, which is fixed in the apartment of an attendant appointed to be on the watch. The least pulsation in the body would give the alarm, and medical aid would instantly be called in. It is melancholy, but impressive, to walk round the Friedhof until you come to the spot where the ground has been fresh turned up ; for every inch is disposed of systematically, and the vacant space is encroached'on only as it is needed. Here may be seen the fresh-painted, newly-gilt monument; then the grave on which the turf has been replaced, and has not united; beyond it the heap of bare mould, the grave of yesterday; and last of all, the open chasm with boards at its sides, gaping in readiness for those who are lying stiff hard by.234 SECTION IV. PRUSSIA—NORTHERN GERMANY—THE RHINE, &c. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 46. Passports. — 47. Custom Houses. — 48. Prussian Money. — 49. Travel- ling in Prussia; Posting or Extra Post; Roads; Tolls_50. Schnellposts.— 51. Inns. ROUTES. (The names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they are described.) ROUTE PAGE 34. The Rhine (B) Nymegen or Arnhem to Cologne by Dusseldorf - 239 35. Nymegen to Cologne by land, through Geldem, or Xanten 242 36. Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne — Railroad - 244 36 a. Aix-la-Chapelle to Diissel- dorf - - - 261 37. The Rhine (C) Cologne to Coblenz - - - 261 38. The Rhine (D) Coblenz to Mayence - - - 282 39. The Ahr Valley — Remagen to Ahrweiler and Altenahr - 302 ROUTE PAGE 40. The Lower Eifel—Excursion to the Lake of Loach, Mayen, and Lutzerath - - 304 41. Coblenz to Treves, Bertrich - 306 42. The Moselle — Treves to Coblenz - - - 313 43. Aix-la-Chapelle to Treves - 320 44. Spa to Coblenz - - 322 45. The Upper Eifel — Priim, to Gerolstein, Daun, and Lutze- rath - - - - 323 46. Bingen to Treves - - 325 47. Cologne to Frankfurt, by Siegburg and Limburg - 325 46. PASSPORTS. The Prussian minister in London rarely gives passports to any but Prussian subjects; but he will countersign a Dutch or Belgian passport, and there is no difficulty in procuring one from the Prussian consul for 7s. (see Introduction, d. Passports). Passports are seldom demanded in the Prussian dominions except on the frontier, where travellers’ names, &c. are entered in a book kept for the purpose at the police office. The arrangements of the passport department are such, that at whatever hour of day or night the traveller may arrive, his papers can be countersigned at once, without delaying him on his journey. Should the traveller take with him from London any other than a Prussian passport, he should at least secure, there or elsewhere, the signature of a Prussian minister or consul. On the whole, the police regulations are by no means troublesomely strict. The stranger is not stopped and questioned at the gate of every town he enters, but gives his passport to the landlord of his inn to forward to the authorities.Germany. 47. custom-houses. 48. Prussian money. 235 47. CUSTOM-HOUSES. The one-headed black eagle, and the alternate black and white stripe on toll-bars, doors, and sentry-boxes, invariably announce the Prussian frontier, and the vicinity pf the douane (zollhaus). The Prussian custom-house system (§ 32.) now prevails in the greater part of Germany, and is sometimes administered by Prussian officials, even in the states of other princes. The examination is strict, without being vexatious. The Prussian douanier (often an old soldier invalided) is above taking a bribe, or rather, government regulates matters so as to prevent his taking one. The person offering a bribe is even liablefrto punishment by law. Strangers are treated with invariable civility, provided they conduct themselves becom- ingly. The Hanse towns (excepting Frankfurt), Hanover, and Mecklenburg, have not acceded to the Prussian tariff. 48. Prussian Monet. The Prussian Silver Coins in use are — The Dollar (Thaler), containing 30 rilver groschen ( S. gr.), or24gute (good) groschen, = about 3s. English. (In Brunswick and Hanover accounts are still kept in good groschen). — The Double Dollar. The dollar is divided into pieces of Marked1 containing Jd, 3 einen thaler - 10 silver groschen £th, 6 5 A*, 12 - 2$ - £th, 24 - - 3'ath, ein silber Groschen. Copper Money: — 12 Pfenninge - Pieces of 4, 3, 2, and 1 Pfenninge are coined. English value. ■ = Is. - = 6d. • = 3d. . = 11* 1 S. gr. , Taper Money (Kassen Anweisungen or Scheme) is issued in notes of the value of 1 thaler, 5 thalers, 50 thalers, und upwards, which are very convenient for carrying, though sometimes dirty. As they are often called in, travellers should not retain them in their possession, as they might do, for another journey, as there is no chance for obtaining value for them afterwards. Accounts must now be kept in Silver Groschen (S. gr.) ; but sometimes, in private transactions, the old division of the Dollar into 24 good (gufe) groschen is made use of, especially in shops. Care should be taken not to pay in gute groschen an account which may have been made up in silver gr. Prussian Gold Coins are — Marked Double Friedrichs d’or 10 thaler = 11 dol. 10 S. gr. = 1Z. 13*. l\d. Single Friedrichs d’or 5 = 5 dol.20S. gr. = 16s. 9§7, by Otho III., after Pope Paschal III. had made Charlemagne a saint. He found the body of Charle- magne not reclining in his coffin, as is the usual fashion of the dead, but seated in his throne as one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was the crown, the imperial mantle covered his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was by his side, and the pilgrim’s pouch, which he had borne always while living, was still fastened to his girdle. All these venerable relics were removed, and used in the coronation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany. They are now deposited at Vienna. The throne, in which the body of Char- lemagne was seated, alone remains here: it is placed in the gallery (Hoch Munster) running round the octagon, facing the choir. It is an arm-Chair, in shape somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor, in Westminster Abbey, but made of slabs of white marble, which, during the coronation, were covered with plates of gold. It is protected by . wooden boards, which the sacristan will remove to satisfy a stranger’s curiosity. The arches of the gallery are now once more adorned with some of the 32 pillars of granite and porphyry, brought by Charlemagne from the Exarch’s Palace at Ravenna, and partly from the East: these were somewhat wantonly removed by the French : a part of them only were re- turned from Paris, the rest have been replaced by modern pillars given by the King of Prussia. In the side chapel of St. Nicholas stands an an- tique Sarcophagus of Parian marble, the work of Roman or Greek artists, ornamented with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of Proserpine: the feet of the dead Charlemagne originally rested in it, within his tomb. The Choir, a more modern addition, begun in 1353, finished 1413, “is of prodigious height (114 ft.) and light- ness, having the appearance of a stu- pendous lantern all of glass.” It con- tains a pulpit, covered with plates of silver gilt, richly ornamented with carvings in ivory and precious stones : this is concealed by a wooden case, which the sacristan will remove. Mary Queen of Scots presented the image of the Virgin over the altar with a crown of gold, which was stolen in 1843, and all traces of it are lost. The Emp. Otho III. is buried beneath the high altar. Full musical mass every Sun- day, at 10 a. m. The only paintings worth notice in the Dom are an ancient piece in an upper chapel, by William Kalb, and a fine altar-piece, in compartments, said to be by Albert Durer (?), in the sacristy. The Treasury or Sacristy of the church is very rich in relics. These are divided into the Lesser and the Greater relics. Among the former are the skull of Charlemagne, enclosed in a silver case, something like a barber’s block, and his arm-bone, both taken, it is said, from his grave. It is recorded of Charlemagne that he was of tall stature, and this is believed to be con- firmed by the immense length and thickness of this arm-bone;- unluckily it has been discovered by one whose knowledge of anatomy leaves no room for doubting the fact, that the bone is no arm at all, but a leg-bone, or tibia ! The case for the arm was the gift of Louis XI. of France, who had it made 1481. The rest of the bones of Char- lemagne were discovered here, in 1847, in a chest, put away in a dark closet. Besides these are the hunting-horn of Charlemagne, formed of an elephant’s tusk; also a locket of the Virgin’s hair, and a piece of the true cross, two relics which he wore round his neck, in his grave, as well as while alive. The leathern girdle of Christ (on which may still be seen the impression of Constantine’s seal), the cord which bound the rod which smote him, a nail of the Cross, the sponge which was filled with vinegar; that arm of Simeon, on which he bore the infant Jesus; some of the blood and bones of St. Stephen, some manna from the Wilderness, and some bits of Aaron’s rod, are still preserved here! It wasRhenish Prussia, route 36.—aix-la-chapelle. springs. 247 upon, these relics that the Emperor of Germany swore at his coronation. The Grandes Reliques are shown only once, in 7 years, from the 15th to the 27th of July. The next exhibition will take place in 1853. So sacred was this ceremony held, and so high was the privilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse of them, that in former times no fewer than 150,000 pilgrims re- sorted to the spot from all parts on this occasion; and in 1846, the last anni- versary, the number exceeded 180,000. These relics were presented to Charle- magne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Haroun king of Persia. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of artists of the 9th century, and consist of—1. The robe worn by the Virgin at the Nativity; it is of cotton, 5 feet long.—2. The swaddling clothes in which Jesus was wrapped; they are of cloth, as coarse as sacking, of a yellow colour.—3. The cloth on which the head of John the Baptist was laid. — 4. The scarf worn by our Saviour at the Crucifixion, bearing stains of blood. Intermixed with these religious relics are many curious antique gems, some Babylonian cylinders, and the like, which serve as jewels to ornament the saintly trea- sury. The church plate and articles, of goldsmith’s work, shrines, ampuls, re- liquaries, crosses, chalices, &c., pre- served in this sacristy, render it a perfect museum, and a real treasure of the best period of Gothic art, deserving attention for the inventive skill shown in the designs, and the excellent execu- tion of the ornaments. Those who despise the relics will at least be grati- fied by the sight of the cases in which they are enshrined. “ It is perhaps the richest collection of the kind re- maining, and gives a vast idea of the wealth of the ch. in former days. The most remarkable pieces are 2 large shrines of silver gilt enamelled, with figures and inscriptions, said to be gifts of Otho III. and Frederick II.; the golden plates that covered the throne of Charlemagne impressed with figures in the Byzantine style; a fine ivory cup; 2 pure Gothic reliquaries of gold, of the most beautiful workmanship, gifts of the Emp. Charles V. and Phi- lip II. of Spain, but evidently of much earlier date. All these well deserve the attention of the architectural student.” — F.S. The plate and the lesser relics are shown by the treasurer for a fee ,of 1 dollar or 4 fr. ; and the throne, sarco- phagus, and pulpit, by the verger, who expects £ a dollar from a party. The other churches are scarcely worth notice. St. Nicholas, or the Re- collets, contains over the high altar 3 good pictures, by Diepenback, of the Crucifixion. In St. Michael’s, or the Jesuits’, is a fine Descent from the Cross, by G. Honthorst. The Kornhaus is a curious building of the 12th cent., near the Dom, haying statues of the 7 Electors in front. A very handsome wide new street leads from the Railway to the hand- some Theatre, and to the Fountain of Elisa (Elisenbrunnen) a fine building with a Doric colonnade; it serves the purpose of a pump-room, and has a cafe attached to it, elegantly fitted up. The guests, or visiters, repair hither early in the morning to drink the water, which, though conducted in pipes di- rect from the emperor’s spring, retains a temperature of 43° Reaumur. A band of excellent music plays at the spot until the middle of September, from 6 to 8 a. si., which-is considered the end of the season; and breakfast^ or dinners are provided in the apart- ments adjoining the spring. The build- ing is named after the Queen of Prus- sia. The Mineral Springs of Aix rise in the centre of the town; they are of two classes. The upper, which are the strongest and hottest; the lower, which are weaker and cooler. In the first class the principal spring is the Source de VEmpereur; it contains a larger quantity of sulphur than any other known in Europe; and when the va- pour arising from it js confined, and not allowed to escape, it deposits crys- tals of sulphur. It has a temperature m 4248 ROUTE 36.—ALX. BATHS. BORCETTE. Sect. IY. of 143° Fahrenheit, and owes its dis- agreeable taste to the presence of super- sulphuretted hydrogen gas. This and the two contiguous sources supply — 1. The Bain de VEmpereur, situated in the street called the Biichel, and containing 20 baths. — 2. The Bain Neuf, comfortable, and better lighted than No. 1. The charge for the sulphureous bath is 1 £ fr. ; for the vapour bath 4 fr. — 3. Bain de la Seine d'Hongrie.—4. Bain St. Quirin, having only 38° Reaumur. So great is the heat of these springs that the waste water allowed to escape through the sewers of the town is employed by the common people to wash their linen ; and not only saves them the expense of fuel, but also of soap, since the natron or alkaline salt contained in it supplies its place. It may be ob- served, that linen washed in the water acquires so disagreeable an odour, that strangers will repent if they allow their clothes to be subjected to it. The baths supplied by the lower spring, situated in the street called Comphausbad are — 1. Le Bain de la Sose.—2. Bain St. Corneille.—3. Bain St. Charles. — 4. Comphausbad, appro- priated to the use of the poor. Besides the warm spring there are also sources of chalybeate water, to re- ceive which a Bath House and Hotel are erected in the Neue Strasse. The bath-houses are the property of the town, and are let to tenants : they contain lodgings, and are pretty much on a par. TheRedoute, or Gaming-house, in the Comphausbad-Strasse, corresponds with what in other watering places is called the Kursaal. The lower story is occupied by print and music shops, by a restaurant, and a reading-room, where the princi- pal European newspapers are to be found. In the grand suite of apart- ments, balls are given once or twice a- week, during the season, but they are principally devoted to gambling. — Games of hazard, rouge-et-noir, rou- lette, &c., are carried on in them, not only by night but by day, from ll£ in the morning till 2, and from 9^ in the evening till 12. The tables are open to all comers, except the inhabitants of the town and officers in the Prussian army, who are expressly forbidden by a police order to play at the tables, and a police officer is stationed in each room to prevent the infringement of this law; but it is evaded nevertheless. The rooms are principally trequented at noon, and after the theatre is over. Before 10 p.m. the lowest stake allowed is a thaler. Public gaming-tables are tolerated in no other 3pot in the Prus- sian dominions; and are only suffered here, in consideration of the benefit which the town derives from the num- ber of strangers whom they annually attract, and who would resort else- where if gaming were prohibited. The tables are let out to a company, who are compelled to apply a large portion of their gains to the improvement of the town, and the walks in the neigh- bourhood. The Manufacture of Cloth, the most important in Aix-la-Chapelle, employs 3000 persons in the town ; and more than 12,000 in it and its immediate neighbourhood are occupied in prepar- ing the wool. There are about 2000 needlemakers in the town, and it con- tains a large manufactory of spinning machinery. Nearly 50 large factories are in activity at Aix and Burtscheid. At Mayer’s Library a book is kept, in which the addresses of English visit- ers to Aix are entered. Here are to be found English newspapers. H. Benrath has a well furnished library, and music-shop. He keeps the sub- scription book for the English Church. The Boulevard above alluded to is a pleasant promenade, occupying the place of the levelled ditch and walls of the town, prettily laid out, shaded by fine trees. The Environs of Aix abound in beautiful walks. A pleasant walk of A of a mile from the gates of Aix leads to Borcette (German, Burtscheid), a small town of 5000 inhab. and a small watering-place, though of hum- bler pretensions, connected with Aix by an avenue of trees. On the way the noble viaduct is passed, which carries the Cologne railway (p. 249.) over the valley of Burtscheid. PersonsRhenish Prussia, route 36.—railway, frankenberg. 249 intending to take the waters, and desir- ing retirement, will find this a less ex- pensive place of residence than Aix. Inns: Bain de la Rose (Rosenbad), tolerable: baths, and a table-d’hote : — Bain de l’Epee, an old castle con- verted into an hotel; board and lodging less than 5 fr. per day. The principal source, called Fontaine bouillante, Kochbrunnen, is hotter than any at Aix (179° Fahrenheit); it re- sembles the Aix waters in its contents, but while they are nauseous from the taste of sulphur, this is almost tasteless: all that can be detected is a slightly saline flavour, by no means disagree- able. It rises in the open air, in the middle of the principal street. Burt- scheid also contains springs of saline water not unlike that of Wiesbaden. The hot springs are so copious that the rivulet formed by the union of them runs warm ;—das Warme Bach. About half a mile N. of Aix, on the Opposite side to Borcette, beyond the Sandkaul Thor, is the hill called the Louisberg, or Lousberg, 200 ft. high, surmounted by a pyramid or obelisk, raised for trigonometrical purposes, near which a beautiful view is obtained of Aix, of the line of the Railway, and along the rich valley (Siiersthal) strewn with country houses. The white pil- grimage church on the Salvatorsberg is a conspicuous object. The summit of the Louisberg may be reached in £ hour by an easy carriage road, and be- tween 4 and 5 crowds of people flock thither. On the lower slope stands a handsome Restaurant and Cafe, the Belvedere, with a salooD, commanding a noble prospect. About 3 m. off is a very pretty garden, called Kaisersruhe. On the way thither is Tivoli, an agreeable pleasure ground. About 21 m. from Aix, on the road to Treves (Rt. 43.), is Schloss Schonforst, one of the finest ruins in the vicinity of Aix. A pleasant walk, by the side of the Warm rivulet, is to the Frankenburg, described below, 1 m. dis- tant from the Adalbertsthor. About 2 m. out of Aix, on the right of the post road to Cologne, is the chateau of Kalkofen, in which General Elliot, the brave defender of Gibraltar, died, having killed himseli, it is said, by an excessive use of the waters. Carriages for hire are expensive at Aix; between 4 and 6 dollars are asked per diem. 2\ francs an hour, with pour boire to driver. There are droskies and omnibuses at the railway, § 20. A. Schnellposts (§ 50.) to Diisseldorf, Maestricht, and Treves ( Rte. 43.), and Crefeld. Railroads—to Cologne, trains 4 times a-day in 2£ hrs. ; to Liege, 4 times a- day; to Brussels and Antwerp, 3 times, and to Ostend twice a-day, in 12 hrs. (To Maestricht, begun.). Railroad to Cologne, 9*33 G. m. = 43^ Eng. m., or 71 kilometres. The Terminus stands midway be- tween Aix-la-Chapelle and Borcette. A noble Viaduct, 892 ft. long, and 70 ft. high in the centre, consisting of 2 tiers of 15 small and 20 large brick arches, carries the railway from the station across the narrow valley of the Wurmbach, in which Borcette is built. A good view is obtained of it, of Aix- la-Chapelle, and the Lousberg behind it. (1.) Close by the side of the railway, 1 m. front Aix, rises on a projecting rock the Castle of Frankenberg, an ivy- clad and ruined tower of considerable antiquity, to which a more modern edifice (date 1642) is attached. Char- lemagne is said to have founded and inhabited a castle on this spot; . and here, according to the legend, died hii beloved queen Fastrada. He caused her body to be enclosed in a coffin of glass, and never quitted it day or night, ne- glecting the concerns of his empire, and abandoning himself wholly to grief, until Turpin the Wise, watching one day until he slept, opened the coffin, took off the golden wedding ring from the dead queen’s finger, and thus re- leased the emperor from the spell of sorrow. The lake which surrounded1 the castle, and into which the ring was thrown, has been partly drained and converted into gardens. (1.) The village Nirm is seen just before we enter the cutting leading to the Nirmer Tunnel a costly work250 ROUTE 36.—RAILWAY. AIX TO COLOGNE. DUREN. Sect. IV. though only 327 yards long, which carries the railway through the hasin of hills which surrounds Aix. Traversing a beautiful wood called Reichswald, we reach 1*35 (rt.) Stolberg stat. (Hissels, and Welties Inns), a manufacturing town of 3000 inhab., lies about 3 m. S. of this, up a valley studded with mills, forges, and country seats. The town is surmounted by a picturesque old Castle on the top of the hill. The principal manufacture is that of brass, and the conversion of it into wire, &c. Zinc is obtained from mines in the vicinity. The district traversed by the railway, and in which Stolberg lies, is a produc- tive coal-field, furnishing the aliment to numerous other manufactories, iron and glass works, &c. It is scattered over with houses, steam-engines, and chimneys. (1.) The village Pumpe, which in- cludes extensive iron-works, is inhabited chiefly by coal-miners, and receives its name from the steam-engines used to pump water out of the coal-mine near to which the railroad passes. Excellent coal is furnished hence, and is much used by the steam-boats on the Rhine. Some of the shafts are more than 1000 feet deep. After crossing the Inde, the' small stream flowing out of the vale of Stol- berg, a second tunnel of no great length, driven through the rock of the Jchen- berg in a curve, brings the railroad to •43 (1.) Eschweiler stat. Inn: Post. This is an industrious town of 3600 inhab., on the Inde, having manufac- tures of silk, iron, wire, &c. and an old picturesque Castle, restored in the an- cient style, and rendered habitable, by a private gentleman. The fortress of Jiilich (p. 261.) is about 9 m. from this stat. We next pass 1. the sta tely old Castle ofNotbberg, flanked by 4 round towers, one of which has lost its roof. From the top of a high embankment, a good view is obtained of the pleasing vale of the Inde, which is finally concealed by the sides of the deep cutting leading to 1'05 Langerwehe stat. A viaduct of 7 arches conveys the railroad over the vale of the Wehe beyond this stat. On the right lie the village and castle Merode, — cradle of a family still existing in Belgium, one of whose ancestors, in the thirty years’ war, was leader of a free corps in the Imperial army, distin- guished above all others for its insub- ordination, habits of plunder, and bruta- lity. The name “ Merodeurer” became a by-word for a plunderer, and a name of terror so widely understood, that it has been adopted even in our own language in the word “ marauder,” pro- perly applied to undisciplined soldiers, who desert their corps to steal. The railway is carried through the midst of the village Dhorn, and a little to the 1. of Giirzenich, before it crosses, by a bridge of 6 arches, the Ruhr, a river well known in strategic history, especially in the revolutionary French campaign of 1792-3. Less than 1 m. beyond the Ruhr lies 1-25 Diiren stat. (Inns: Post (Pfiilzer Hof), good: — Bellevue,— Esser’s near the railroad, new and best,) is a town of 8000 inhab., devoted to manufactures, the chief of which are of cloth and paper. The church of St. Anne, surmounted by a fine Gothic tower, possesses the head of that saint enclosed in a strong box. A hand- some Protestant church has been built. Charles V. was nearly killed by a shot fired from the walls by a townsman, as he was besieging Diiren, which he took and destroyed, after an obstinate resistance, with a force amounting to 61,800 men, in the year 1543. Diiren owes its origin and name to the Roman station Marcodurum, mentioned by Tacitus. There is nothing very re- markable in the town. A pleasant ex- cursion may be made up the valley of the Ruhr to the picturesque village Niedeggen, 8 m. S. of Diiren, seated on the summit of a lofty rock, com- manding an extensive view, including the battle-field of Zulpich ( Tolbiacum), where Clovis defeated the Alemannf, a. d. 496, and, becoming a convert to Christianity, was baptised, it is said, inA 1 Cathedral........ 2 Stfeters......... 3 S. Ursula........ 4 Jesuits Ch •..... 5 S.Maria in Capitol 6 Apostles' Ch...... 7 SC Gereoru. 8 SSMartin..... 9 Ourdbert.. 10 SCjiuctaleon. H Minorites Ov. 12 S? George... 13 St Severin -- 14 St Maurice... la StAndrew..... 16 S. Cohanba... 17 S. John Bap t COLOGNE Schafea Thor Weyer Thor <- f lu G_ajut- KJi j Jljgitete~5t7L] IrLesen Thor -w 9 Cb G 18 ElendsJdrche........B 5 19 5". Cecilia 1) 3 20 S. Alban,: ........E 4 21 Museum............ F 4 22 Bathaus ...........E 5 ^Gereons Thor Steamers 23 Xutfhaus...........D 4 24 Zeughaus............F 3 25 Arrest Jams G 3 26 am Bomertiizuvn F 2 27 amJnch....... D 2 28 Bonn BazLway Station...........B 2 29 Air -la-Chapelle Railway Station.....H 6 30 Cologne & Minden Railway Station.....F 7 31 JutichS Rlate.......E 4 32 Landing place of the Busseldorf Steamet-s. D 5 33 D? of the Cologne D 6 34 Post Office ..........E 3 35 Police Office....... E 3 36 JPostdiorse JEstaJbl t E 3 A UTohaue Mill \ H I o p MM t——^ Bloating Baths IV____a 0 ______^ ^v. Cologue aihl Minxlp l - BailwaY^tati.oiL !>/ M.. U F/T ^-----------] 5oo loop 1500. Buhhs/ial by John Murray. A!betnuric Sheet, London 1841. .IS-C. Walker, Scalp'Rhenish Prussia. route 36.—cologne. 251 thc font still preserved in the venerable crypt under the parish church. Zul- pich is about 10 m. S. E. of Diiren. A cutting nearly 3 m. long carries thp railway through the high ground which separates the basin of the Meuse frctm that of the Rhine. It terminates a Kttle way short of I ‘25 Ruir stat. ,A high embankment next succeeds, carried over the lowlands of the valley of the Erft, which river is crossed a' litjle before reaching ,,, (l-5 Horrem stati on 3 bridges. (1.) Beyond ! the village rises the Castle of Frenz, whose ancient owners' were descended from one -of the 15 nople families of Cologne who traced their descent from colonists established jn that city by the Emperor Trajan, A. CD. 108 ! Thfe railway passes from the valley oflthe Erft into that of the Rhine by thft Konigsdorfer tunnel, 1 m. long, cafried through a hill of sand 136 ft. bejow the summit,, and- lined with brick. t67. Konigsdorf stat. Close beyond this the high road frcjm Cologne to Jiilich is crossed. (The low range of hills under which we have just passed is called Yille, a name derived, it is said, from the Ro- m^n inhabitants of Cologne, who built thipir villas on these genial slopes, above th$ Rheintlial. *88. Mungersdorf stat. A fine view is presented of Cologne, with its many towers and steeples ; conspicuous among which rises the ocfagon of St. Gereon. ’Just where the railroad arrives abreast of the walls, it passes, on the right, one of the de- tached forts, half-buried towers, a la Montalambert, each capable of mount- ing 100 guns, forming part of the de- fences of the city, and a second, on the left, shortly before reaching the *95. Cologne Terminus, which is on the left bank of the Rhine, below the city, and 3 m. distant from the stat. of the Bonn Railway. Omnibuses convey travellers to the several hotels (to the Bellevue, gratis). Cabs, called Droskies, Germ. Droschken, stand for hire. After passing along the winter harbour, Co- logne is entered by an old fortified gate- way,which is inconveniently narrow. Cologne (Germ. Koln, Dutch Keufen). Inns: Cour Imperiale (Kaiserlicher Hof), one of. the best, but a long way from the Rhine, and dear,, — Rheinischer Hof, good, clean, and well conducted,, though dear. — Grand Hotel Royal, very good :—Ho- tel de Cologne, moderate and quiet: — Hollandischer Hof: — Rheinberg, bad and dirty—these 4 arc on the Rhine Qiiay, close to the steamers:—Mainzer Hof, near the diligence office.—Inns in Deiitz, on the opposite side of the Rhine, united by the bridge of boats. Hotel, de Bellevue, excellent, com- manding from its front windows a fine view of Cologne, and not far.from the station of the Minden, Hanover, and Berlin Railway : — Prinz Karl. These two inns have gardens overlooking the river, in which there is cpmmonly music ,every evening in summer. Droskies (cabs) 15—20 S{ gr. the hour, a drive of 15—20 miniites, with 1 or 2 persons 5 S. gr., with 3 or 4, 10 S, gr. Cologne is a fortified town on the left bank of the Rhine. Population 85,000 (7000 Protestants), including Deutz, its suburb, and Tete flu Pont, on the rt. bank, with which it is con- nected by a boat bridge 14004ft. long. It is the largest and wealthiest city on the Rhine, and a free port. Cologne owes its existence to a camp pitched here by the Romans, under Marcus Agrippa, which was afterwards enlarged and rendered permanent by the removal, under Tiberius, of a na- tive tribe, called the Ubfi, from the r. bank of the Rhine (Tacitus j Ann. I. 36.), and their settlement at the spot now occupied by Cologne. This first city was called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 years after, Agrippina^ mother of Nero, sent hither a colony of Roman veterans, and gave to it her own name, calling it Colonia Agrippina. A part of its ancient appellation is still re- tained in the modern name of Cologne. Cologne abounds in historical asso- ciations. Traces of the possession of m 6252 ROUTE 36.—COLOGNE. HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Sect. IV. this city by the Romans remain not only in various fragments of walls, originally part of the outer defences, though now far within the city, and in the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, &c., which come to light almost wher- ever the ground is turned up; but even in the features and complexions of its inhabitants, who are said to betray their hereditary blood, and to differ considerably from their German neigh- bours. The inhabitants were so proud of their Roman origin, that up to the time of the French revolution, the higher citizens styled themselves patri- cians — the 2 burgomasters wore the consular toga, and were attended by lictors — while the town banners bore the pompous inscription S. P. Q,. C., The foundations of the Roman walls may be traced in the very heart of the present city through the street Auf der Burgmauer, by the Zeughaus— by the Klarenthurm, a tower of brick in opus reticulatum, called Roman, though really a work of the Franks—but standing on the Roman wall; thence through numerous gardens past the Apostles church to the Lach, where is another so-called Roman tower, and the Marsilstein; thence eastward to St. Mary’s Church, where the capitol stood; thence past the Rathhaus, which occupies the site of the Roman Prae- tor ium, to the Dom. The existing outer walls of Cologne present one of the most perfect exam- ples of the fortifications of the middle ages, with picturesque flanking towers and gate-houses. They were built between the 12th and 15th centuries. The greater part is probably of about the year 1185. The extent of Cologne along the bank of the Rhine, from the tower at the upper end, called the Bayenthurm, down to the small tower at the lower end called the Thiirmchen, is 11,560 Rhenish feet, about 2\ Eng. miles, and the extent round the wall on the land side between these same towers is 21,600 Rhen. ft., or about 4^ Eng. miles. Agrippina, mother of Nero, was born here, in the camp of her father Germanicus; Trajan here received the summons to assume the Imperial pur- ple ; Vitellius and Sylvanus were pro- claimed Emperors of Rome or the spot, and the latter was murdeicd in the Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis was declared king of the Franks at Cologne. From the middle of the 12th nearly to the end of the 15th century, Cologne was the most flou- rishing city of Northern Europe, one of the chief emporiums of the Han- seatic League, concentrating the trade of the East, and keeping up a direct and constant communication with Italy. From this connection, not only the productions, but also the arts, of the East, were at once transferred to the then remote West of Europe. The architecture of many of the oldest churches is identical with that of Italy, and there is some similarity between the paintings of the early Italian and Rhenish schools; it is even probable that the southern school of art was indebted to the artists of the North for some portion of its excellence. “ In the middle ages, ftom its wealth, power, and the considerable ecclesiastical foundations of its bishops, it was often called the Rome of the North.”—Hope, Another relic of the ancient alliance with Italy is the Cameval, which is celebrated here, and nowhere else in the North of Europe, in the same manner, and almost with as much spi- rit and pomp ofomasquerading, &c., as in Rome or Venice. The procession of masks is tolerated even in the streets here, and in one or two other towns of the Rhenish provinces, as an ancient custom. Another amusement com- mon in Italy, but found nowhere in Germany but at Cologne, is the Pup- pet Theatre (Puppen Theater—Hen- neschen), Blind-Gasse near the Hay- market, where droll farces are performed by dolls ; and the dialogue, spoken in the patois of the country, and full of satirical local allusions, is carried on by persons concealed behind the scenes. Cologne has an interest for the En- glishman, inasmuch as William Caxton settled here, 1470, and here learned the art of printing, which he speedily trans- ferred to his own country.Rhenish Prussia, route 36.— cologne, commerce. 253 In 1259, Cologne obtained the staple right by which all vessels were com- pelled to unload here, and ship their cargoes in Cologne bottoms. The Co- logne merchants enjoyed important pri- vileges in England ; Henry VI. granted them the exclusive use of the Guildhall in London. After its period of pros- perity and splendour, during which the city could send forth 30,000 fighting men, came the season of decay. Com- merce took a new route across the con- The uncontrolled sway of bigoted ec- clesiastical rulers,'on three occasions, marred its prosperity, and finally com- pleted its downfall. The first injurious act of intolerance was the persecution and expulsion of the Jews, 1425; the second, the banishment of the weavers; and the third, the expatriation of the Protestants, 1618. The injury done to the city by these arbitrary acts is best proved by the desolate condition to which they reduced it, contrasted with the increasing prosperity of Aix-la- Chapelle, Venders, Elberfeld, Diissel- dorf, Miihlheim, Solingen, and other cities, in which the exiles, victims of these persecutions, who were almost in- variably the most industrious and use- ful citizens, settled themselves. Dur- ing this period the number of churches and convents multiplied enormously. Cologne is said to have had as many steeples as there were days in the year; there are still 20 churches here. Be- fore the French revolution, the number of buildings devoted to religious uses was 200; she is now content with 29, but many of the buildings remain, ap- plied to the secular purposes to which the French first turned them. 2500 of the inhab. were ecclesiastics; and, as a natural consequence, more than twice that number were beggars, who sub- sisted principally on the monks. The French revolution nowhere created a greater change than here; the rich foundations were all plundered, the convents secularised, the churches strip- ped, and converted into warehouses and stables. The transport of corn and Rhenish tinent of Europe, and Cologne fell under the bliebtinsr domination of priests. wine down the Rhine, and into the neighbouring countries of Holland, Belgium, and Westphalia, employs a great many vessels and persons. There are considerable sugar refineries here. Of late years, trade has greatly re- vived ; improvements have followed in- creasing prosperity, and under the Prussian government, the town is Many of the streets have been widened and paved — new streets and houses built, and old ones repaired; and some of the thoroughfares boast of traffic and crowds like those of London. A large portion of the space enclosed within the walls, formerly the fields and gardens of conventional houses, is rapidly be- coming covered with buildings. One of the leading causes of the de- cline of the prosperity of Cologne in the T6th cent., was the closing of the na- vigation kof the Rhine by the Dutch. This restriction was removed in 1837, pursuant to treaty, and Cologne now trades directly with the countries be- yond sea. Seagoing vessels are con* structed here. A new quay with bonded warehouses has been con- structed just below the bridge. • Sea- going vessels lie alongside. 'Hie yearly increasing prosperity, fostered by' the continuance of peace, and augmented by the convergence to this point of the Railroads from Paris, Antwerp, and Berlin, have caused Cologne again to raise her head high among the chief cities of Europe. This huge carcass of ruined buildings and vacant enclosures, revived by increasing wealth, is swel- ling out into its former proportions, and flourishing both in population and industry. The objects of interest in Cologne being spread over a wide space, the following plan for seeing them in suc- cession, without retracing his steps, may be useful to the stranger : — Begin with the Cathedral; close to it is the Museum; thence by the Jesuits’ Church (a gorgeous combin- ation of Gothic and Italian architec- ture) to St. Ursula; (the curious in architecture should visit St. Cuni- throwing off the dirty and gloomy ap- Dearauce for which it was notorious.254 ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IY. bert’s;) from St. Ursula to St. Gereon, pass the Roman (?) Tower to the Apostles’ Church ; to St. Peter’s ; St. Mary’s in the Capitol; the Giirzenich, and the Rathhaus, which completes the circuit. The Cathedral ( Dom Kirche), though begun in 1248, by Archbp. Conrad of Hochsteden, remained up to the pre- sent time a fragment and a ruin. The choir was consecrated in 1322 : but in 1509 a stop was put to its further progress. Had the original plan been completed (views of the intended edi- fice are to be procured), it would have been the St. Peter’s of Gothic archi- tecture. Even in its present state, it is one of the finest and purest Gothic monuments in Europe. It is to be regretted that the name of the great architect who designed so splendid a structure has been lost: one Master Gerhard, who was living 1252, is the builder earliest named, but nothing is known of him. The two principal towers, according to the original de- signs, were to have been raised to the height of 500 feet. That which is most finished at present is not above one third of the height. On its top still remains the crane employed by the masons to raise the stones for the build- ing. And it has stood for centuries. It was once taken down; but a tremend- ous thunder-storm, which occurred soon after, was attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and it was therefore instantly replaced, or a similar one set up in its stead. Its permanent presence there may have indicated that the idea of completing this noble struc- ture was not abandoned; and until re- cently (1849), its completion appeared probable even in the present generation. From 1824 down to 1842 large annual grants, amounting to 215,000 thalers, had been made to the building by the late and present King of Prussia. All this, however, was expended merely in repairs rendered indispensable by long ages of neglect. This restoration has been conducted in a masterly man- ner, the faulty stone from the Drach- enfels, on the exterior, replaced by another of a sounder texture, and the workmanship in the new sculpture,and masonry is at least equal to the old. The stone used is no longer that of the Drachenfels, but is brought from An- dernach and Treves, and is of volcanic origin. A fresh impulse was given to the works on the accession of the present king, who contributed more largely to its funds, and on 4th Sept. 1842, laid the foundation stone of the transept. An Association, also, called Dom-bau Verein, has been established, with branches in all parts of Europe, to col- lect subscriptions for completing the edifice according to the original design, The architect, Zwirner, estimates the cost of finishing it at 2,OCX),000 dol- lars for the nave, transepts, &c.. and 3,000,000 doll, for the towers and fa- 9ade ; in all, 750,0001. In Sept. 1848, the nave, aisles, and transepts, were thrown open; a temporary wooden roof, covering in the nave and transept just above the triforium. It is pos- sible, therefore, now to judge of the full extent of the interior. The late King of Bavaria has presented 5 paint- ed windows, which have been placed in the S. aisle of the nave. The 5 painted windows in the N. aisle were executed in 1508; the 4th from the -W. en- trance is the best. The entire length of the body of the church will be 511 ft., equal to the height of the Towers when finished; the breadth, 231 ft., corresponds with the height of the gable at the W. end. “ The Choir is the only part finished; 161 ft. high, and internally, from its size, height, and disposition of pillars, arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured windows, resembling a splendid vision. Externally, its double range of stupen- dous flying buttresses, and intervening piers, bristling with a forest of purfled pinnacles, strike the beholder with awe and astonishment. If completed, this would be at once the most regular and most stupendous Gothic monument existing.” — Hope. The fine stained windows of the choir (14th cent.) have been thoroughly cleaned and repaired ; and some concealed frescoes brought to light on the walls, have caused themRhenish Prussia, route 36.—cologne, cathedral. 255 to be decorated afresh by Steinle and artists of the Diisseldorf school. Round the choir, against the columns, stand 14 colossal Statues of the 12 Apostles, the Virgin, and Saviour, gaudily co- loured and gilt, sculptured in the be- ginning of the 14th century. Of the same date are the finely carved stalls and seats of the choir. In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar is the celebrated Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, who came from the East with presents for the infant Saviour. Their bones were carried off from S. Eustorgio at Milan by the Emp. Frederic Barba- rossa, when he took that city by storm (1162), and were presented by him to Rainaldo Archbp. of Cologne, who had accompanied him on his warlike expe- dition. — N. Italy Hdbk. 166. The case in which they are deposited is of plates of silver gilt, and curiously wrought, surrounded by small arcades, supported on pillars, enclosing figures of the Apostles and Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolution, when the shrine and its contents were transported for safety by the chapter to Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the jewels were sold to maintain the persons who ac- companied it, and have been replaced by paste or glass imitations; but the precious stones, the gems, cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a fair notion of its riches and mag- nificence in its original state. The skulls of the three kings, inscribed with their names — Gasper, Melchior, and Balthazer — written in rubies, are exhibited to view through an opening in the shrine, crowned with diadems (a ghastly contrast), which were of gold, and studded with real jewels,: but are now only silver gilt. Among the an- tiques still remaining are 2, of Leda, and, Cupid and Psyche, very beautiful. On the front of the shrink are these two monkish leonine lines, asserting the possession of the entire royal re- mains, against all rival proprietors of relics; Corpora sanctorum recubant hie terna Mago* rum, Ex his sublatum nihil eat, alibive locatum. Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are still worth 6 millions of francs = 240,000/.; this is an exag- geration, no doubt. This shrine is opened to the public gaze on Sundays and festivals; but those who desire to see it at other times, or to have a nearer and more minute view of it, must apply to the sacristan, and pay a fee of 1^ Th., which admits a party to see it and the sacristy. Tickets at 15 S. gr. each are taken from the verger to see the choir, Dombild, and altars; 20 S. gr. are paid for ascending to the roof. Under a slab in the pavement, be- tween the high altar and the shrine of the three kings, the heart of Mary of Medicis is buried. In the adjoining side chapels around the choir are se- veral monuments of Archbishops of Cologne; the most remarkable are those of Conrad of Hochsteden (its founder), of bronze (1261), and that of Phillip of Heinsberg (1191), sur- rounded by a mural parapet, to signify that he built the walls of Cologne. In the side chapel of St. Agnes, on the right of the Magi, is a very ancient painting, in distemper, called the Dom- bild (the Cathedral picture), bearing the date 1410. It represents the Patron Saints of the city of Cologne, viz. in the centre, the Adoration of the Magi, or the Three Kings; on the one side St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins; on the other, St. Gereon with the Theban Legion. It is a masterly production for so early a period. The artist is not known, but is conjectured to«be Stephen of Cologne, a pupil of Master William of Cologne* mentioned in the Limburg Chronicle as the best painter in Ger- many. In the Sacristy are many relics of Saints, including a bone of St. Mat- thew; St. Engelbert’s shrine of silver, ornamented with reliefs of good work- manship, date 1635; some church plate, and the like curiosities; among them the Sword of Justice, with a finely255 r. 36.—cologne, sr. Peter’s, st. Ursula. Sect. IV. chased scabbard, borne by the Electors of Cologne at the coronation of the Emperor; and 10 elaborate carvings in ivory. The State Cross of the Arch- bishop, 7 ft. high, ornamented with enamel; and a Fax of solid gold, 5 inches by 4. It is well worth while to climb up to the triforium gallery to appreciate the grandeur of the edifice, and to examine the painted glass; or even to mount to the roof for the sake of the view of the town, and of the exterior of the edifice. No one should omit like- wise to visit the workshops (Bauhut- ten), to inspect the sculptured capitals, bosses, &c. prepared for the new build- ings : 20 S. gr. entrance. The best description of the Dom is that by Binzer. The Church of St. Peter contains the famous altar-piece of the Crucifixion of that Saint, with his head downwards, by Rubens, who presented it to this church, in which he was baptized. The picture usually exposed to view is a copy made when the original was car- ried to Paris; but for a fee of 15 S. gr. (for a party), the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the ori- ginal at the back of the copy. On Sundays and festivals, the original is turned outwards. “ It was painted a little time before Rubens’s death. The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is finely coloured (broad light and shade), and well drawn; but the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste of drawing; as is likewise his arm, which has a short interrupted outline. The action of the malefactors (execu- tioners) has not that energy which he usually gave to his figures. Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his own approbation of this picture, which be says was the best he ever painted; he likewise expresses his content and happiness in the subject, as being pic- turesque ; this is likewise natural to such a mind as that of Rubens, who was perhaps too much looking about him for the picturesque or something uncommon. A man with his head downwards is certainly a more extra- ordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this picture are so feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that Rubens died before he had com- pleted it, and that it was finished by some of his scholars.”—Sir J. Reynolds. “ The composition is the best part of this picture ; the bringing of the figures together is most original and skilful, and presents the difficulty of a bad sub- ject overcome. Still the painting, ex- cept in the left shoulder and breast of the Saint, is below the usual run of this great master—though done indeed with great power, yet in the drawing of the figures, the indication of anatomy is far from good.”— Wilkie. The 3 painted east windows are fine, repre- senting— 1. Christ bearing his Cross; 2. Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the Cross. They were executed 1523— 1530. The brazen font in which Rubens was baptized still exists in this church. The Ch. of St. Ursula, and of the 11,000 Virgins (built partly in the 12th, partly iu the 14th and 15th centuries), is too singular a sight not to be visited, It is situated just within the walls, and is not remarkable in its architecture, but is filled with the bones of St. Ur- sula’s companions. That saintly lady (according to the legend, a princess of Brittany or Armorica) set sail with her virgin train from Brittany for Rome, and sailed up the Rhine to Bale, whence she proceeded to Rome, on her return from which place the whole party was slaughtered at Cologne by the barbarian Huns, because they refused to break their vows of chastity. (See p. 129., and the Cologne version of the story, for there are many ver- sions, in Mrs. Jameson’s Sacred and Legendary Art, vol. ii. p. 115.) On en- tering the church these hideous relics meet the eye, beneath, above, around: they are built into the walls, buried under the pavement, and displayed in gauut array in glass cases about the choir. The Saint herself reposes in a coffin behind the altar, while the skulls of a select few of her associates areRhenish Prussia, route 36. — Jesuits, sajsta maria. 257 admitted to the Golden Chamber, en- cased in silver, along with a number of other relics, such as one of the stone vessels which held the water that was turned into wine at the Marriage in Cana, &c. A bad picture in the church represents the landing of this female army of Saints at Cologne. Some, who have been staggered at the number of Ursula’s maiden train, have supposed that the legend arose from confounding the name of one of her attendants, Undecimilla, with the number undecim millia (11,000). But it is hardly worth while to try to reduce the childish tales of the monks to the limits of proba- bility, more especially as in the cyclical revolution of opinions they have again found admirers. The church contains a curious series of old German pictures of the Apostles painted on slate, 1224. The Church of the Jesuits (Maria Himmelfahrt) dates from 1636', and, like others erected by the order, is overloaded with gorgeous decorations of marble, sculpture, &c. It contains the crozier of St. Francis Xavier, and the rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola. Its bells were cast out of the cannon taken at Magdeburg by Tilly, and presented by him to this church. Travellers interested in architecture will find in Cologne many excellent examples of the round style, with some specimens of the transition style firom the round to the pointed. Romanesque has been adopted as a general term to denote the round style ; Lombard, Norman, and Saxon, when speaking of it as varied in the countries to which those names refer. “ The east end of these [Romanesque] churches look like those of the Greeks, or the mosques of Constantinople."—Hope. The ar- chitects who designed these earliest churches at Cologne, and many similar along the Rhine, had evidently studied the Lombard churches of Pavia, which became familiar to the inhabitants of the banks of the Rhine by the residence of the Carlovingian emperors in that capital of their Italian dominions ( Hbk. for N. Italy, p. 208.; Gaily Knight, Eccles. Archit. of Italy, vol. i..; Bois- ser£e, Denkmale der Baukunst am Nieder-Rhein). The architectural tra- veller will visit St. Maria in Capitolio, the Ch. of the Apostles, St. Gereon, St. Martin, St. Cunibert, and St. Pan- taleon. Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called from its occupying the site of the ca- pitol of the Roman city, stands on a height surmounted by a flight of steps. The Frankish kings had a palace here, to which, in 696, Plectrudis, the wife of Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa- rated from her husband on account of his attachment to Alpais, the mother of Charles Martel. She, in 700, re- moved the capitol, and built a church and a nunnery on its site. It has been contended that the existing church is nearly entirely of that period. It is more probable that the greater part at least was built about 1000. Observe the upper circuit of the choir, both inside and outside. Inside, the coupled columns, with their rich arabesque capitals, are in the style of the 11th or 12th century; outside, the wall is crowned by a*row of arches on small pillars. The transepts are in an older and plainer style. The lower windows of the choir have been filled with tracery of the latest period of the pointed style. The pointed vaulting of the nave is apparently a restoration of the latter part of the 14th century. “ Externally, in the same style with the Ch. of the Apostles; internally resembling a Greek church still more, and, in fact, a coun- terpart of one existing among the ruins of Seleucia, since round its semicircular absides and east end run internally semicircular rows of columns support- ing round arches.”—Hope. The effigy of Plectrudis, a very early work (10th century), is let into the wall, outside of the choir. The doors of the N. transept, carved with scriptural sub- jects in relief, executed at the end of the 12th cent, at the latest, are very curious (compare the doors at Hil- desheim). The walls of the Hardenrath chapel are covered with paintings by an old German master (1466); and the windows have some good stained glass. That of the Schwarz family, with groined vaulting, contains the brass font (1594)*258 R. 36.-----COLOGNE. sx. gereon’s. st. martin’s. Sect. IV. surmounted by a figure of St. Martin on horseback. A picture attributed to Albert Durer is shown here, but is certainly not by him. The walls of the crypt, now a salt depot, are covered with ancient paintings nearly effaced. The tower was built after 1637, when the old one fell. The convent has dis- appeared. A cloister of the 10th cen- tury remains. The Apostles' Church, in the Neu- markt, was begun in 1020, and finished in 1035, It suffered from fire in 1098 and 1199, and was partly rebuilt in the beginning of the 13th century. It has a double transept. To the earlier building belong the choir, the eastern transept, and octagonal cupola, the two small towers, the lower part of the nave, and the great tower. The western transept and upper part of the nave are the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The vaulting of the nave, which had become ruinous, has been lately restored in wood, after the old pattern. This church has “ 3 absides, or £ circular cupolas, with slim octagonal steeples between them, rising undiminished to the top, from the transepts and the choir. Their common centre is crowned by an octagonal cupola, which, as well as the three absides, is belted, imme- diately under the cornice, by galleries of small arches, on small columns, coupled in the depth of the arch, rest- ing on a panelled balustrade^ such as is displayed by all the other churches here and on the Rhine, of the same period, and covered with a low ribbed roof of lead, so as to present a striking resem- blance to some of the oldest Greek churches in some of the remotest parts of Asia Minor; and at the same time in its proportions, as airy and elegant, and calculated to magnify its apparent size, as the heavy, clumsy, English, Saxon roof often does the contrary.” — Hope. St. Gereon's Kirche, another ossuary, since it is lined with the bones of tbe Theban Legion of 6000 Martyrs, slain, according to the legend told here, either on this spot or at Xanten (see p. 244.) during the persecution of Diocletian, is one of the finest and most ancient churches in Cologne. The decagonal portion dates from 1212*; the Test of the church, including the choir and the crypt, was built 1066-69. The earlier building is in the round style, except where some repairs were executed, as is thought, after a storm in 1434 : the latter shows a preponderating mixture of the pointed. “ By a' singular and theatrical arrangement, arising out of these various increments, its body pre- sents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, the pillars of whose internal angles are prolonged in ribs, which, centering in a summit, meet in one point, and lead by a high and wide flight of steps, rising opposite the entrance, to an altar and oblong choir behind it; whence other steps again ascend to the area between the 2 high square towers, and to the ^ circular east [end, belted as well as the cupola by galleries with small arches and pillars, on a panelled balustrade in the style of the Cb. of the Apostles. The entrance-door, with square lintel, low pediment, and pointed arch, is elegant; and the crypts show some remains of handsome mosaics.”—> Hope. The baptistery is a very elegant building, in the transition style of the decagonal church. It contains a font of porphyry, said to be a gift of Char- lemagne. The sacristy, in the pointed style, is apparently of the 14th century. It contains some painted glass. St. Martin. In 977, Archbp. Wa« rinus entirely rebuilt this church ; that founded by Pepin d’Heristal having fallen into decay. Of this building, the choir, the transepts, the central tower, and the aisles, remain. The tower was not, however, completed until the next century, and the 2 small towers on the E. side of it were added in 1072. The upper part of the nave and the vestibule are in the oldest pointed style; having been built by the Abbot Gotschalk about 1172. The interior was modernised in 1790. In the church is an octagonal font of white marble, a Roman work of the time of the empire, and having apparently been a labrum of a bath. “ St. Martin like- wise shows, internally, the Greek dis- tribution.”— Hope.Rhenish Prussia, r. 36. ■— cologne, the museum. 259 Near St. Gereon’s is the Arrest haus, or new prison, built on the radiating panopticon plan. St. Cunibert, finished in 1248, the year the Dom was begun, but in a style totally different from it, is a re- markable instance of the adherence to the older style, after the pointed style had become prevalent and perfect. The largest tower was burnt in 1376, and rebuilt in 138S, in the pointed style. It fell down in 1830, while undergoing repairs, and destroyed the vaulting of the adjoining parts of the nave and transepts: these have been restored. It contains the oldest painted glass in the country, of most glowing hues, and has an elegant portal. St. Pantaleon is in part, perhaps, the oldest Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge, and Castle of Deutz. The greater part of the present ch. is of the year 1622. It is now the Evangelic Garrison church, and its tower supports a telegraph. In the Ch. of the Minorites (13th cen- tury) is the tomb of Duns Scotus. St. George, 1060-74. The vaulting is later: the choir is higher than the nave: there is a crypt; and a baptistery of 1200. The Museum ( Trankgasse, No. 7. close to the cathedral, admittance fee 10 S. gr. each person; on Sundays and holidays it is open free from 10—12^) is chiefly occupied with works of art, bequeathed by Prof. Wallraff to his native city, consisting of early specimens of the School of Cologne*, which, however, are unnamed and uncatalogued. Among the more remarkable are—the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan \ 1410), (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school) ; the Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel, and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel von Meckenen (1488); also a Virgin and Child, and * See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting, $ xl. several others, by Master William of Co- logne (1380). These pictures deserve attention, as monuments of a school whose very ex- istence was almost unknown till the present century. We are now aware that, nearly simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, there sprung up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who succeeded in raising art from the degra- dation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence; and maintained that peculiar style which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and Schoreel. In order to appreciate tho- roughly the works of the early German painters, it is necessary to see the Boisser£e Collection, now in the Mu- nich Gallery, which was itself formed at Cologne. Among the pictures by modern artists, observe the Captive Jews at Babylon, by Bendemann, “ no less re- markable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness of feeling it expresses;” the Convent Court, in a snow-storm, by Lessing, is also good. In the lower story are many Roman antiquities, some of which are curious as having been found in or Hear Co- logne ; besides these are several busts and-statues, and one specimen of sculp- ture, distinguished as a work of Greeian art, of great beauty and value—it is the Head of Medusa, resembling the famous Medusa Rondonini, but larger, and it is said to be even finer. Those who take interest in Art will find maaj private collections of pictures here ; the most interesting being those of Messrs. Kerp (Johannes Strasse), Merlo (Unter Fettenhennen), Bau- meister, F. Zanoli, Sc. &c. ; they are, however, for the most part, limited to works of the old German masters. The Rathhaus (Town-hall) is a cu- rious building, erected at different pe- riods ; the Gothic tower containing the Archives, in 1414; the marble portal, or double arcade, in the Italian style,260 R. 36.-EAU DE COLOGNE. ALTENBERG. Sect. IV. in 1571 ; the ground-floor in the 13th cent. The interior contains nothing remarkable, but in the Gothic Hansa Saal, now closed, were held the meet- ings of that mercantile confederation which at one time carried on the com- merce of the world. In the ancient Kaufhaus or G'urze- nich (so called from the person who gave the ground on which it stands), finished in 1474, several Diets of the Empire were held, and many German Emperors entertained at the hospitable board of the patrician magistrates, in the huge hall which occupies the 1st floor : here the carneval balls are given, and the Art-Union exhibition takes place in July. It has a remarkably fine Gothic fireplace, The House of the Templars, in the Rheingasse, No. 8., supposed to be of the 12th or 13th cen- tury, lias lately been repaired, and now serves as the Exchange and Chamber of Commerce. The Casino is a hand- some new building, near the theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regierungs Gebaude is also a handsome edifice. Maria de’ Medici died, lb'42, in the house, No. 10, Sternen Gasse; her remains, except the heart, were carried to France. Rubens was born in the same house, 1577. Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, is an article of considerable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and several who bear the same name; but the original Jean Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the inventor (1670—1680), the best fabri- cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found opposite the Jiilichs Platz. Za- noli, Hochstrasse, also may be recom- mended ; a box (6 bottles) costs 2 Th. 10 S. gr. The value of this manufac- ture cannot fail to be appreciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Cologne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stranger; it occasioned the following verses of Coleridge :— Ye nymphs, who reign o’er sewers and sinks, The river Rhine, it is well known, Doth wash your city of Cologne : — But tell me, nymphs, what power divine Shall henceforth wash the river Rhiue ? Baedeker, Hochstrasse 134 a, has a good store of guide books, &c. Physician. Dr. Feist; who speaks English. rt. Deutz (Hotel Bellevue), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, connected by the bridge of boats, nearly 1400 ft. long, with Cologne, and strongly fortified as a tete de pont, is a favourite place of resort in summer evenings. It has capital inns and many guinguettes, which afford the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citi- zens. A large barrack has been con- structed here with magazines of artillery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constantine the Great. From the extremity of the bridge, the finest view of Cologne and its ranges of buildings, extending for 3 miles along the opposite bank, is obtained, t An exceedingly interesting excursion may be made from Cologne to the Cis- tercian Abbey of Altenberg, 14 m. dis- tant, 2^ hours’ drive, off the post-road to Minden. The Abbey lies about a mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, to the S. of the road, in the midst of beech forests, buried in the pretty retired val- ley of the Dhiin, and close to the rush- ing stream. There is no carriage road to it, but a pathway turns off from the road, a little short of Strasserhof, through a glen. The distance is a very long mile, and parts of the way are ankle deep in very wet weather. The church is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, the rest in 1379 ; it is 84 ft. high, and of graceful proportions. The windows contain some beautiful painted glass ; and re- mains of frescoes may be traced on its walls. The high altar, richly orna- mented with carvings, the pulpit, and numerous curious monuments of abbots and monks, knights and noble ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state. Among them are several of the Counts of Al- tena, and the Counts and Dukes of Berg, an ancient family allied to the reigning house of Brandenburg. It has been supposed that this church was designed by the architect of Cologne261 Rhenish Prussia, route 37. — the khine (c). cathedral; but the simplicity and so* lidity of the columns seem to indicate an artist of an earlier style. Observe the free and natural foliage of the capi- tals ; it is well executed, and with great taste. The choir windows are narrow, and tall out of all proportion; hidden on the outside by the projecting but- tresses, and rather poor when seen within. The conventual buildings, from which the monks were turned out only about 50 years ago, were built about 1214 : they were converted into a ma- nufactory of Prussian blue, and were destroyed in 1815 by a fire which be- gan in them, and reduced part of the church to a state of impending ruin. In 1836 the King of Prussia (then Crown Prince) undertook its restora- tion. This exquisite relic of Gothic architecture has thus been saved, though at a great cost, from the destruction which was imminent. A dinner, with trout from the Dhiim, may be had at the Inn (the Post) at Strasserhof. Drcskies (one-horse carriages) ply for hire in different parts of the town. The fare is fixed by a tariff hung up inside the vehicle, and the driver is bound to give a receipt for the money paid him, as a check to surcharge (See p. 251.). Railroads — to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 36.); — to Bonn (Rte. 37.);—to Diis- seldorf (Rte. 66.). Steamers several times a-day, up the Rhine to Coblentz ( Rte. 37.), and down to Nymegen and Arnhem (Rte. 34.), and thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12.).' Schnellposts (§ 50.) morning and even- ing to Coblentz (Rte. 37.), to Cassel (2); to Siegen (Rte. 45. a.); to Priim and Treves; to Cleves, in 13 h., and Nymegen (Rte. 35.). ROUTE 36 a. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO DUSSELDORF. The road from Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf is good. Schnellposts in 8 lirs. 3^ Juliers (Germ. Julich). Inn': Drei Konigen — civil people, and clean beds — a melancholy-looking fortress, with 3000 Inhab., in the midst of a plain, surrounded by marshes and stagnant ditches, which render it very unhealthy. The surrounding district, however, is so fertile that it has received the name of the Granary (Kornkammer) of the Rhine land. 3^ Feurth: a post house by the road- side. “ About 1^ Germ. m. from Neuss, on this road, a by-road of 2 Eng. m. conducts to the ancient Schloss Dyck, residence of the family of Salm Dyck, which once bore the title Altgraf; the principality was mediatised in the late war. The Castle is modernised, and offers little for observation, but the gardens are famous for a curious and rare collection of succulent plants,” — F. S. 2 Neuss. (p. 243.) The Rhine is crossed by a flying bridge. U Diisseldorf. (Route 36. p. 241.) ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank of the Rhine, according as they would lie on the right or left of a person looking down the stream. Delkescamp’s pictorial Panoramas of the Rhine and Moselle are useful and ingenious helps to tourists; also Hendschel’s excellent “ Topographi- sches Rhein-Panorama," published by Jiigel, Frankfort a. M. The Rhine. “ On the banks of the majestic Rhine, There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of ail beauties ; streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun- tain, vine. And chiefless castles breathing stem fare- wells From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd. All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the cloud,262 route 37. — the rhine (c). Sect. IV. There was a day when they were young and proud, Banner :v who fought are in a i edless But Andtl now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. “ Beneath these battlements, within those walls, Power dwelt amidst her passions; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a longer date. What want these outlaws conquerors should But have Hist reat ier £ topes wi ere full as brave gre vide: tory’s purchas’d page to call them it? A wider space and ornamented grave ? Their hopes were not less warm, their souls In their baronial feuds and single fields. What deeds of prowess unrecorded died And Love, shields, th eml pride, Through all the mail of Iron hearts would But still their flame was fierceness, and drew prowess unrecorded died ! hich lent a blazon to their shields, With emblems well devis’d by amorous Keen contest and destruction near allied, And many a tower for some fair mischief won Saw the discolour’d Rhine beneath its ruin run. : river! flow lure Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict,—then to see Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth pav’d like Heaven; and to seem such to me, Even now what wants thy stream? —that it should Lethe be. “ But Thou, exulting and abounding Making thy waves a blessing as they now Through banks whose beauty would endi for ever, “ A thousand battles have assail’d thy banks. But these and half their fame have pass’d And Slaughter heap’d on high his weltering ranks; Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? Thy tide wash’d down the blood of yesterday. Ana all was stainless, and on thv clear stream ' Glass’d with its dancing light the sunny ray; But o’er the blacken’d memory’s blighting dream Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. “ Adieu to thee, fair Rhine I How long de- lighted The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Dr lonely contemplation thus might stray; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here. Where Nature, nor too sombre, nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. “ Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu ! There can be no farewell to scene like thine: The mind is colour’d by thy every hue ; And if-reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish’d gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine 1 ’Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise: More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft,—the glories of old days. “ The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city’s sheen, The rolling stream, the precipice’s gloom, The forest’s growth, and Gothic walls be- tween, The wild rocks shap’d as they had turrets been In mockery of man’s art; and these withal A race of faces happy as the Beene, Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, Still springing o’er thy banks, though Empires near them faU.’’ Byron. To the above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate the feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Rhine is regarded in Germany; it is in- deed looked upon as the national river. “ There are rivers whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost every thing that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions, into the open sea, so it comes down from re- mote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events in the history of the neighbouring nations. A river which presents so many historical re-, collections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the cliivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and nego- ciations of modern times, of the coro- nations of emperors, whose bones re- pose by its side; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages; whose banks present every variety of wild and picturesque rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vineyards, some- times gently sloping, sometimes perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature; whose banks are ornamented with populous cities, flourishing towns263 Rhenish Prussia. R. 37. — the and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends are connected; with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral springs; a river whose waters offer choice fish, as its banks offer the choicest wines ; which, in its course of 900 miles, afford 630 miles of uninterrupted navigation, from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish protection to Germany, are also famous as the seats of Roman colonies, and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associ- ated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of man- kind ; —such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind of reverence, and frequently call in poetry Father, or King Rhine."— Da. Libber. Rafts on the Rhine. — Every tra- veller on the Rhine should have his attention called to the vast floating islands of timber which he will con- stantly meet with on that river. They are the produce of the forests which cover the remote hills and mountains traversed by the Rhine and its tribu- taries,—the Neckar, the Murg, the Main, the Mosel, &c. &c. They are first hurled down, in single logs, from the almost inaccessible heights where they have grown, and, having been felled, are committed to some rushing mountain rivulet, whenever its waters, swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice to float them. If the tree escape un- shattered from the rocks, against which it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, bound together with other logs, and again set afloat, till it is conveyed by the tributary rivulet into the recipient river, and reaches other stations on its banks, where it is again enlarged, and entrusted to the care of boatmen to navigate. It may thus bear the same motto as the snow-ball,' vires acquirit eundo, until, on reaching the lower part of the Rhine, it is carefully built into one prodigious fabric, which is then navigated to Dortrecht, and sold. These constructions have the appearance of a RHINE (C). RAFTS. floating village, composed of 8 or 10 little wooden huts, on a large platform of oak and deal timber. The rowers and workmen sometimes amount to 400 or 500, superintended by pilots, and a proprietor, whose habitation is superior in size and elegance to the rest. The captain places himself upon a raised platform or stage, from which he can survey the float from end to end, and direct, by words and signs, its movements. It is steered by means of anchors and the immense oars or sweeps of a quadruple row of rowers, placed fore and aft. The vast fabric bends and twists like a snake, when passing near dangerous eddies, and narrow straits, such as are met with in the Rhine under the Lurley Berg, and the Bingen Loch. The raft is composed of several layers of trees, placed one on the other, and strongly fastened to- gether by chains and rivets, planked over with rough deals so as to form a deck, which is sunk nearly to the level of the water. Several smaller rafts are attached to it, by way of protection, besides a string of boats loaded with anchors and cables, and used for the purpose of sounding the river and going on shore. The domestic economy of an East-Indiaman, or an English man- of-war, is hardly more complete. The boatmen are often accompanied by their wives and families, and spinning, knitting, tailoring, dressmaking, are carried on ; poultry, pigs, and other animals, are to be found on board — and several butchers are attached to the suite. A well-supplied boiler is at work night and day in the kitchen ; the dinner hour is announced by a basket, stuck on a pole, at which signal the pilot gives the word of command, and the workmen run from all quarters to receive their messes. The con- sumption1 of. provisions in the voyage is almost incredible. It has been stated to be, from the time the construction of the raft commences until it is sold at Dort, 45,000 lbs. of bread, 30,000 lbs. of fresh and dried meat, 15,000 lbs. of butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, 50 sacks of dried vegetables, 500 tuns of beer, 8 butts of wine, and several other articlesSect. IV. 264 R. 37.---THE RHINE (c). RAFTS. STEAMERS. in proportion. The expenses are so great that a large capital is necessary to undertake a raft. Their navigation is'a matter of considerable skill, owing to the abrupt windings, the rocks and shallows of the river; and some years ago the secret was thought to be mo- nopolised by a boatman of Riidesheim and his sons. At present the rafts are not so large as formerly; instead of 900 feet in length, they are now commonly not more than 600 or 700; they never ex- ceed 250 in breadth, and are subjected to be measured at Caub, to ascertain that they do not exceed this width ; if larger they could not pass through the narrow channel between the rocks at Oberwesel. They do not draw more than 2 or 3 ft. of water. The smaller rafts, which still often require 400 men to navigate them, are both more easily managed, and can also set out from a higher point up the river than the larger floats. A single float is com- monly the property of a great number of shareholders. The timber is sold at the end of the voyage, and sometimes produces from 300,000 to 350,000 florins (25,000/. or 30,000/.). Dur- ing the years 1839, 1840, and 1841, the average quantity of timber imported into Holland by the Rhine amounted annually to 110,500 tons Engl, weight, consisting principally of wood suited for ship and house building, wainscot logs, spars, weals, staves, and.firewood; the whole of which is consumed in Holland, with the exception of some trifling quantity sent to the colonies. The value of the Rhenish timber con- sumed annually in Holland amounts to about 170,000/. The voyage from Bingen to Dort may be performed, under favourable circumstances, in 8 days; but it sometimes takes up 6 weeks. It is curious to find that the boatmen who navigate the Rhine still call the left bank of the river Frank- reich (France), and designate the right Hessenland, — though these names no longer apply to the present possessors of either bank. “ These rafts are nearly similar in construction to those I have seen floating down the St. Lawrence. 1 n fact, floating timber down the Ameri- can rivers in large masses' was first at- tempted on the Hudson and St. Law- rence, by the early Dutch and German settlers. The rafts on the St. Lawrence and Ottawa are necessarily, on account of the rapids, bound stronger together than those on the Rhine.”—Macgregor Commerc. Statis. Steam*Boats on the Rhine. — (See Rte. 11.). 1. Cologne Company, plies between Cologne and Strasburg; 2. Diisseldorf Company, between Rot- terdam and Manheim; 3. the Nether- landish or Dutch Company, between Rotterdam and Manheim. At the rate of 10 or 12 m. against the stream, and of 15 m. with it. As the hours of departure and arri- val are constantly changing, the travel- ler is referred "to the Companies’printed Bills, which he may obtain at their offices, and find in every inn or steam- boat he enters; or to the numerous little books, with time tables, fares, distances, &c., published in France, Belgium, and Germany. The best are those compiled by Hendschel, and pub- lished by Jiigel, at Frankfort a. M., and that of Haase at Prag. “ Carriages are embarked and landed free of charge. The steam-boats are divided into 3 cabins : — 1. The pavilion — 2. The chief-cabin — 3. The after-cabin, for servants and inferior persons. The pa- vilion differs from the second cabin only in being more expensive; and unless a person wishes to be very exclusive, he has no occasion to take any othar place than the second cabin. Meals are provided on board, at prices fixed by a printed tariff hung up in the cabin. Dinner at the table- d’hote, at 1 o’clock, 17 S. gr.; at other times, apart, 1 dollar; half a bottle of wine, 6 S. gros.; tea or coffee, with bread and butter, 7 S. gr. Caution. — “ Places are booked at all parts of the Rhine and at Frank- furt direct for London, dailg, but the tickets so issued are available cnly for one set of steamers plying between Rotterdam and Loudon; One of the Rhenish companies corresponds withRhen. Prussia, r. 37.—-the ehine (c). cologne to bonn. 265 the Batavier, which sails only once a* week; consequently the unwary tra- veller may be detained 7 days at Rot- terdam, unless he choose to sacrifice the money which he has paid, and take a passage in one of the other companies’ steamers.” — P. F. Even upon the Rhine it is scarcely worth while, for the sake of a small saving, to bind one’s-self down to go by the boats of a particular company. If the hour of departure happen not to suit the tra- veller, or he arrive too late for the boat to which he is engaged, he must either forfeit his money, or wait till the next day. If he pay the money in advance, he has probably only one chance in a day ; if he is free, he has 3 or 4 up and down the river. In 1827, when the Cologne company commenced, 18,000 passengers were conveyed up and, down, between Co- logne and Mayence; the number in- creased to a million yearly, until tra- vellers were kept at home by the events of 1848. The traveller who confines himself to the Rhine and the routes contiguous to and branching off from it, will find that, with very few exceptions, he may make his way very well without know- ing any other language than French, which is generally spoken in the inns, passport, and coach-offices, and public conveyances, from Cologne to May- ence and Frankfurt, and thence to Baden. The money current upon the Rhine is, in Prussia, Dollars and Groschen (§48.) ; higher up, in Nassau, Frank- furt, and Baden, Florins and Kreutzers. (Section VII.) Scenery of the Rhine. — The glo- ries of the Rhine commence about 20 m. above Cologne with the beautiful cluster of mountains called the Sieben- gebirge; and the banks of the river afford, nearly up to Mayence, a suc- cession of scenes of equal beauty and variety. English travellers are often under the erroneous impression that they have seen the Rhine in passing up and down in a steam-vessel, and they hurry onwards to something be- yond the Rhine. It may be said of them, in the words of a homely phrase, that they “ go farther and fare worse.” The views in many places, looking down upon the Rhine from its lofty banks, far surpass those from the river itself; and the small valleys, which pour in their tributary streams on the right hand and left, have beauties to unfold, of which the steam-driven tourist has no conception, — which are entirely lost to him. At the same time, to avoid disappointment at first, he should remember that below Bonn or Godesberg he will find nothing to admire in the scenery of the river. In order thoroughly to explore and appre- ciate the Rhine, it is necessary every now and then to make a halt, and the following places appear the most ap- propriate stations to remain at: — Bonn, or Godesberg ; — Coblenz ; — St. Goar ; — Bingen, or Riidesheim.* Railroad. — Cologne to Bonn. 3 -9 Germ, miles = 18 Eng. m. Trains in about 1 hour. Terminus at Cologne, near St. Pantaleon’s Gate. Distance by the Rhine 22 E. m. The steamers take 2\ or 3 hours. The line runs through a plain of corn-fields, at some distance from the Rhine, and near a chain of hills called Vorgebirge. 1. Kalscheuren St. •5. Briihl Stat., in front of the Chd- teau, built by the Episcopal Elector, Clement Augustus, 1728, now be- longing to the Prussian Government. The King of Prussia received Q. Vic- toria here in 1845, during the Beet- hoven festival at Bonn. It contains some portraits of Electors and old German princes, and has a garden and an old-fashioned park attached to it. The ancient Franciscan convent is * Post-road____Cologne to'Coblentz. 11$ Pruss. m.=54 Eng. m. along the bank of the Rhine. Schnellposl every morning and evening, in 8$ hours. It takes rather longer to post. Bonn Remagen Andernach - Coblentz Pruss. i -raj : a On leaving Cologne, the church of St. Severin and the Bayenthurm are passed. N266: Sect. IV. BOUTE 37.--THE RHINE (c). BONN. now a seminary for schoolmasters. Briihl contains about 2000 inhab. 1. The hunting-seat of Falkenlust, united to Briihl by avenues of trees, also belonged to the Electors. *7. Sechtem. At Waldorf are remains of a Roman aqueduct, which, extending up to the course of the Erft, conveyed its waters to the Rhine. *8. Roisdorf, St. Here are mineral springs resembling the Seltzer water. The outline of the Seven Mountains beyond the Rhine are a pleasing feature in the view. The Kreutzberg (p. 268.) with its ch., and the village Poppelsdorf, are seen rt. before reaching. *9.' Bonn. — Terminus situated on one side of the horse-chestnut avenue leading to Poppelsdorf. Several steamers start every morning from Cologne to Coblenz,'making the voyage in 8 hours, descending in 5. Youmay reach Mayence in 14hrs. from Cologne, and in two more Frankfurt. At the upper end of Cologne, at the margin of the rivers rises the Bayen- thurm, a stately and picturesque Gothic tower, of the 14th cent. From its posi- tion, projecting into the river, it serves in winter to stave off the ice-shocks from the city below. From Cologne to Bonn the banks of the Rhine are as flat and uninteresting as in Holland, and the villages which lie on them do not require any notice. On nearing Bonn, the picturesque out- line of the Siebengebirge (7 mountains) on the rt. bank,.rivets the attention. . rt. The castle of Siegburg, rising conspicuously on an .'-eminence above the Sieg, about S m. E. of the Rhine, is now a lunatic assylum. rt. Mouth of the river Sieg. The Sicambri (Sieg-atnbri), an ancient people, lived upon its banks. rt. At Schwartz-Rheindorf, opposite Bonn, about £ m. below the bridge of boats, there is a curious architectural monument — a church of two stories. It was erected by Arnold Von Weld, Archbishop of Cologne, in 1151, yet it is entirely in the Romanesque style, showing no traces of the pointed Gothic. The upper church, now restored' for divine worship, is surrounded by an open gallery or arcade, supported by more than 100 little pillars, whose bases and capitals exhibit a prolific variety of ornament. It will interest none but architects and antiquaries. 1. Bonk. Inns: Der Stern (the Star), good and comfortable; Trier- ischer Hof (Cour de Treves), also good and moderate ; both in the mar- ket-place; Colnischer Hof (Cour de Cologne); Bellevue; Koniglicher Hof; both in the new part of the town, out- side the Coblenz gate ; the latter has a garden down to the water side : Rhein- ech, on the Rhine ; moderate. The red wines called Walportzheiiner and Ahr- bleichart, produced in the neighbouring valley of the Ahr, are very good here : the Roisdorf mineral water is used as a substitute for the Seltzer water. Bonn, a town of 15,500 inhab., on the 1. bank of the Rhine, is chiefly remarkable for its University, estab- lished by the King of Prussia, in 1818, which has attained a high reputation on the Continent, owing to the im- proved discipline maintained among the students, and to the discernment exercised by the government in the appointment of professors. Prince Albert was a student here. Among those who have already filled chairs here, the most distinguished are Nie- buhr and Aug. W, Schlegel, both dead. The Electors of Cologne formerly resided here, having removed their court hither from Cologne iri 1268. Their huge palace, built 17S0, nearly , m. long, now serves to contain the University; and includes the Lecture- rooms, Library of about 100,000 vols., and the Academical HaU, decorated with modern frescoes, painted under the direction of Cornelius, by his pupils. The subjects are the four faculties, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier and Linnaeus are conspicuous, and Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wicklifife, St. Jerome, and the Fathers, and Ignatius Loyola, and other divines, both Catholic and Protestant, are introduced. The same building contains the Museum of Rhenish Antiquities, a veryRhenish Prussia, route 37. — the Rhine (c). Bonn. 26T large and interesting assemblage of local remains discovered on thebanks of the Rhine, and relics of Roman settlement^ in this part of Germany. It is much to be lamented that the collection is, as yet, neither named nor catalogued. The following seem to be the most remarkable objects :—A Ro- man altar, dedicated to Victory, which formerly stood in the square called Romer Platz, and is supposed by some to be the identical Ara Ubiorum men- tioned by Tacitus (Annal. I. 39.). A brohze vase, bearing figures of Her- cules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at Zulpich. Nume- rous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass vessels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Hadderneim ; the gravestone of one M. Ctelius, who fell in the great battle of‘ Varus (hello Variano), a- gainst Arminius, very interesting from the event it commemorates,1,as well its for its representation of1 Roman mili- tary costume; Jupiter’s wig, and a thunderbolt of bronze, from the Hunds- riick ; tiles stamped with the numbers Of several Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these partsa Roman millstone of Mertdig tufa, and an an- cient German'shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westphalia, besides200 bronzes. The Universetatspedell shows the hall—fee- 5 S. gr., for the Museum 8 S. gh The'cdllections are opened to the public Mond. and Fri., 9—12 and 2—5. An Avenue rof chestnuts, about § a iti. long, forming an agreeable walk, conducts t'o'tbe ~Chateau of Poppehdorf, dontaining the Museum of Natural History. The collection of minerals and fossils isextensive and good, and especially interesting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits of the Siebengebirge and Eifelj arranged by Profr. Gold- fuss. ’ Among the fossil remains may be seen a complete series from the brown coal formation of Friesdorf, near1 Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, from the most perfect state dotra to that of a tadpole, discovered in the shale called paper-coal, deserves notice. Attached to the chateau is the Botanic Garden, very spacious, very rich, beautifully situated, and admirably kept. £ hour's walk brings you from this garden to the church on the Kreutzberg. The Minster, a fine building exter- nally, surmounted by 5 towers, was founded, it is said, by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and contains a bronze statue of her, in the style and of the age of Louis XIV. The dates of the building of the different parts of this ch. are not accurately known. Perhaps the high crypt on which is elevated the choir, belongs to the ch. of Helena. The circuit of the choir, and its 2 towers were apparently built in the 10th century: the rest, includ- ing the middle tower, about the year 1177. The more remarkable parts are the central tower, and the windows of the nave formed of 5 small pointed arches. The interior is very plain. The English Ch. Service is performed1 ort Sunday by an English clergyman. There is a very good club (§ 40.) here, called Lese- and Erholuiigs- Ge- sellschaft. Beethoven, the composer, was bom (1770, d. 1827) in the house No. 815.. Bonngasse, (934 Rheingasse ?). A bronze statue by Hanel was erected to him, in 1845, in 'the Miinster-platz. In the churchyard; outside the Sternen Thor, Niebuhr the historian is buried. His monument is by Rauch. Also Schlegel. Here also are the graves of several students killed in duels. . The most notable events in the an- nals of Bonn are its capture after a long siege, in 1584; by Archbp. Ernest of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been deposed from the see, because he had become a Protestant; and its surrender to the English and Dutch army under Marlborough, in 1703, after a siege, the operation's of which were conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. In the course of it a great part of the town was buhit. Bonn is mentioned by Tacitus as Castra Bon- nenSia, and was "the spot where Clau- dius Civilis, the rebel leader of the Batavi, was defeated by the Romans, a. d. 70. At Bonn the beauties of the Rhine268 ROUTE 37.--THE RHINE (c). BONN. Sect. IV. may be said to have already com- menced. There are several most agreeable excursions round about it, and the view of the Seven Mountains on the opposite side of the river is Strikingly grand. They are seen to great advantage from the Bastion, or terrace, called Alte ZoU, overlooking the Rhine. Finer still is the view from the church on the summit of the Kreutz- herg, one of the hills behind Poppels- dorf, l£ m. from Bonn. It was for- merly attached to a convent of Servites. It was built 1627. In a chapel be- hind the altar are shown the Sacred Stairs which led up to Pilate’s Judgment Hall, still bearing stains of the blood which fell from the wounds caused on the Saviour’s brow by the Crown of Thorns I They were built of Italian marble by the Elector Clement Au- gustus (1725), in imitation of the staircase at Rome called the Scala Santa : and no one is allowed to ascend them except on his knees. A trap- door in the pavement leads into the vaults under the church, remarkable for having preserved, in an undecayed state, the bodies of the monks buried in them. These lie in 25 open coffins, with cowl and cassock on: the flesh in some is preserved, though shrivelled up to the consistence of a dried stockfish ; they are, in fact, natural mummies, and their preservation is attributed to the dryness of the sandy soil. They have been interred here at various times, from 1400 to 1713. The church is annually visited by numerous pilgrims, chiefly the rude peasants of the Eifel. The other agreeable expeditions which may be made from Bonn are to — 1. Godesberg, on the road to Cob- lenz, and the Alum Works at Fries, dorf; — 2. The Drachenfels, and Siebengebirge, with the ruins of Heis- terbach on the opposite side of the Rhine, described further on; — 3. The Lower Eifel (Rte. 40.); —4. The valley of the Ahr (Rte.39.). The two last highly interesting and seldom explored. Steamer, Bonn to Coblenz, hrs. (1.) After leaving Bonn about 3 m., the road * passes a Gothic Cross called Hoclikreutz, erected by an Archbishop of Cologne, J331. Aboufl m. from this, to the right of the road, are the brown coal mines and alum works of Friesdorf. The stratum here worked is, in fact, a forest, buried in an early period of the world’s existence, and now converted into lignite, or brown coal. The trunks of trees are inter- mixed with clays and sands, and ex- hibit all the stages from fossil wood in which the vegetable fibre and texture are quite discernible, down to bitumi- nous earthy coal fit for burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and freshwater shells are found in these beds. Associated with the coal is a stratum furnishing the ingredients for extensive alum works. “ The alum of commerce is a compound of sulphuric acid, potash, and aluminous earth, and all these sub- stances are obtained on the spot, from materials found in contact with the alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed by the action of air and mois- ture upon iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previously gently roasted, and the potash from the ashes of the brown coal used as fuel in evaporating and crystallising the alum salt.” — H. “ The same mine furnishes a fine pot- ter’s clay, which is used in making the conical moulds employed in refining beet-root sugar, which is extensively manufactured hereabouts. ” — P. At Putzburg, near Friesdorf, gi- gantie trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. in diameter, occur embedded in the strata. The earthy brown coal worked here affords the valuable pig- ment known by the name of burnt umber, or Cologne earth. 1. Plittersdorf village. Here the steamer stops for passengers to or from Godesberg, 1 m. distant from the Rhine, and 5 from Bonn. Here is a ferry to Nieder Dollendorf (fare, 1 S. gr.). Godesbebg. Inns : Blinzler’s Ho- tel : — Hotel Bellevue ; both very * The Post-road quits Bonn archway under the Electoral PalacRhen. Prussia. r. 37.— the. Rhine (c). seven mountains. 269 good. “ The Bellevue was built as a Kur Saal by the last Elector of Cologne, who projected making Go- desberg a watering-place, but was prevented by the French Revolution. Prices: — Table d’hote, 15 S. gr. — in private, 1 th.; — Table wine ( Ober- Mosler), 15 S. gr. — Breakfast and tea, 10 S. gr---Bed, 15 S. gr.” — P. Visitors may board at 5 frs. a-day, ex- clusive of wine. Donkeys ply near the hotel, to convey persons up to the castle, or for other excursions in the neighbourhood. Godesberg, a village of 1000 inhab., on the high road, is, on account of its situation, one of the most agreeable summer residences on the Rhine. Near it is a mineral spring, called Draitscher Brunnen, where there are baths, 10 S. gr. each. Shaded paths wind round the hill to the ancient Castle Keep on its top. Jt was built by the warlike archbishops of Cologne, 1212, on the site of a Roman fort, and served them long as a strong-hold, till the Bavarians took it, and blew it up, 158?, because it held out for the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard Truchsess. The cylindrical Donjon tower (100 ft. high, built 1340) commands one of the most beau- tiful prospects on the Rhine. The key is kept at the well below. The in- terior of the castle is now the village Churchyard. Godesberg, l£ m. distant from the Rhine, is a convenient point for making excursions to—1. TTie volcanic hill of Roderberg. — 2. The Seven Moun- tains. The nearest way to therti is to cross the Rhine by the ferry-boat to Konigswinter, at the foot of the Drach- enfels. This excursion may be length- ened profitably, by ascending the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Roland- seck, p. 271., and, after exploring its ruined castle, crossing in a boat to Nonnenwerth, and then dropping down the river to Konigswinter. The ex- cursion will not take up more than a day, and is decidedly a very interesting one. — 3. The short tour up the valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39.). 4. “ A visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may be combihed with the tour of the Seven Mountains, but is better made sepa- rately ; crossing the Rhine by the ferry from Plittersdorf (1.) to Nieder-Dol- lendorf. About 2 m. inland S. E. from this lie the ruins of the Abbey of Heisterbach. A carriage road leads to it. The pedestrian, after passing OberJ Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded path into the Petersthal, a secluded valley at the base of the Petersberg, one of the Seven Mountains, in which the Abbey lies. A fragment — the apse of the choir — alone remains to attest its ancient magnificence. It is a beautiful specimen of the transition from the round to the pointed style in its perfection: begun in 1202, finished 1233. The building was sold for the mere value of the materials by the French in 1806, and the greater part was pulled down and removed to form the fortifications of Wesel. The beau- tiful fragment which still exists is care- fully preserved from further decay by the Count zur Lippe-Biesterfeld, its present owner, and well deserves the stranger’s attention. rt. Konigswinter. Inns: H. de l’Europe; comfortable, overlooking the Rhine; — Hotel de Berlin. A village of 1500 inhab., at the foot of the Drachenfels, which is most conveniently ascended from this in 30 minutes. Asses for the ascent of the mountain cost 10 S. gr. ; to Heisterbach, 2£ m., 20 S. gr. Boats to Nonnenwerth and back 20 S. gr.; to Bonn, 15 S. gr. rt. The Seven Mountains, Sie- bengebirge. This group of hills, in reality more than 7 in number, forms a grand commencement to the beautiful scenery of the Rhine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, en- tirely of volcanic origin, and consist of lava, trachyte, and basalt, ejected through the rocks, which form the basement of the surrounding country* by subterraneous eruptions, which took place previous to the existence of any human record or tradition. The names and heights of the seven principal summits (for there are many minof heights) are as follows: — Stromberg* 1053 ft.; Niederstromberg, 1066 ft.; Oelberg, 1453 ft. (the highest); Wol-270 ROUTE 37.------THE RHINE (c). DRACHENFELS. Sect. IV, kenberg, 1055 ft. ; Drachenfels, 1056 ft.; Lijwenberg, 1414 ft. (commanding a view considered by some superior to that from the Drachenfelds); andHem- merich. They are almost all crowned with the ruin of some ancient tower, chapel, or hermit’s cell, which add much to their picturesque features. The trachyte rock of the Wolkenberg is quarried to a considerable extent as building stone ; 'it abounds in the mi- neral called glassy felspar. The most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachekeels (Dragon Rock), whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side, crowned with a ruin. “ The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o’er the wide and winding Rhine, ■ Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine, i And hills all rich with blossom’d trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, : thes Have strew’d a seene which I should With double joy wert thou with me. **,And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, And hands which offer early flowers, Walk smiling o’er this paradise; Above, the frequent feudal towers : Through green leaves lift their walls of And many a rock which steeply lours, And noble arch in proud decay, Look o’er this vale of vintage-bowers; But one thing want these banks of Rhine,— ‘ Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine I The river nobly foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose ■ ■ Some fresher beauty varying round: The haughtiest breast its wish might bound Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear, Could thy dear eyes in following mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine I ” Byron. The summit of the Drachenfels com- mands a noble view, and it may be Teached in about half an hour from Konigswinter. In ascending it the traveller is shown the quarry from which the stones were taken to build the cathedral of Cologne, called, in consequence,-Dombruch, and the cave of the Dragon (from which the moun- tain was named) killed, as it is reported, by the horned Siegfried, the hero of the Niebelungen Lay. Near the top is a tolerable inn, where parties, may dine, and those who wish to enjoy the sun- rise from the summit find sleeping ac- commodation. The ruined. fragment on the top is of remote origin, and was once the seat of a noble race, long since extinct, named after the mountain on which they dwelt. They were depen- dent upon the Archbp. of Cologne as feudal superior, and seem to have chosen this situation for their castle from the facilities it afforded them for spying at a distance the merchant’s laden boat or labouring waggon, and for sallying down to pillage or exact tribute. The View hence extends, down the river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up- wards, the Rhine is shut in by rocks, which, however, are very grand, while Bonn and its University, with old castles, villages, and farm-houses, al- most beyond number, fill up the fore- ground of the landscape. The principal objects are the summits of the 7 Mourn tains, Remagen, and Apollinarisberg, the volcanic chain of the Lifel behind, Oberwinter, and the island Nonnen- werth, the ruined arch of Rolandseck, the extinct crater of Roderberg, and the donjon of Godesberg. ,; The ruins on several other summits of the Seven Mountains are remains of castles of the archbishops of Cologne, In that which crowned the Lowenberg, the reformers Melancthon and Bacer passed some time with the Archbp. Herman Yon Wied, who afterwards adopted the reformed faith; and his successor, the Protestant Archbp. Geby bard Truchsess, took refuge here, with his beautiful wife, Agnes von Mans- feldt, 1585. The view from this sum? mit extends back over part of the Wes- terwald and of Westphalia. 1. In the neighbourhood of Meh- lem is the Roderberg, one of the most interesting extinct volcanoes on the Rhine. Its crater is circular, nearly 4 m. in diameter, and 10O ft. deep. It is now covered with fields of corn. The sides are composed in many places of tufa and -scoriae, exactly similar to those found on Vesuvius. Frotn thisRhenish Prussia, k. 37.—the rhine (c). bolandseck. 271 crater you may walk through the gorge called Eliasschlucht to the ridge on which stand the ruined arch and tur- rets of (l.) the Castle of Rolandseck, an admirable point of view for surveying the Rhine. This ruin receives its name from a tradition that the famous nephew of Charlemagne chose this spot because it commanded a view of the Convent of Nonnenwerth, within whose walls his betrothed bride was immured. He lived here a lonely hermit for many years, according to the story, which has furnished the sub- ject of one of Schiller’s most beautiful ballads, “The Knight of Toggenberg.”, The scene, however, has been trans- ferred by Schiller from the Rhine to Switzerland. It is unfavourable to the truth of the story, that the castle is called, in the oldest records where it is mentioned, Rulcheseck. It was originally a nest of robbers, whose depredations rendered them the terror of the vicinity. The bold and precipitous rock of Rolandseck, composed of prismatic basalt, with its scanty and mouldering baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a very striking object from the river, and taken together with the Drachenfels on the opposite bank, serves as a fit portal to the grand scenery which lies above it. It projects so far forward, that the high road has barely room; to pass be- tween its foot and the. brink of the Rhine. There are. 2 inns hear the foot of the rock of Rolandseck. Exactly opposite, and in the middle of the stream, is the island of Nonnenwerth (Nun’s island), so called from the large building upon it, embowered in trees, an Ursuline nunnery, built 1771, on the site of that which was once the asylum of the bride of the unfortunate Roland. The amiable intercession of Josephine with Napoleon, on behalf of the nuns, is said to have preserved to them the possession of their ancient retreat, at the time when the other re- ligious establishments on the Rhine were secularised by the French. It was for some time converted into an inn, but still remains , in the condition in which it was left by its former in* mates. 1. Oberwinter, a village through which the road passes. The greater part of the road from Rolandseck to Remagen may be said to be literally quarried in the rock. It was begun by the Bavarians, continued by the French, and completed by the Prussians. The Romans, however, have the credit of laying the founda- tions of this noble highway, as was proved by remains turned up by the modern road-makers, such as coffins, coins, and a Roman, milestone, the in- scription of which proved, that under Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Yerus, a. d. 161—180, a road had been already formed here. 1. Opposite the village of Unkel is the Unkelstein, a hill composed of basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway. They are found both in a horizontal and vertical posi- tion, and extend far. into the bed of the Rhine, where they formed an obstacle to the passage of timber rafts, until the rock was blown up by the French. As it is, the current of the Rhine sweeps with great force past the Unkelstein. The basalt affords the best material for roads and pavements, on which account it is extensively quarried. In 1846 a landslip in the basalt lifted up the highroad 40 ft. above its former level.. 1. Apollinarisberg, a wooded height named after a Saint, whose head is. pre- served here. It is. surmounted by a beautiful Gothic Church, built from de- signs of Zwirner (the restorer of the Dom of Cologne), by Baron Fiirsten- berg of Stammheim, which is lighted by circular windows, and decorated in- ternally with frescoes. These, as some of the latest and most lauded of the works of the German fresco-painters, are worth the traveller’s attention. The subjects and. artists are as fol- lows:— Entering by the W. door: on the 1. are scenes from the life of Christ, by Deger: in the N. transept, St. Apol- linaris destroying, through prayer, the statue of Jupiter in the presence of the Roman Empr., by A. Muller. Figures N 4 ;272 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). REMAGEN. LINZ. Sect. IV. of Saints, by Ittenbach. The Cruci- fixion, and beneath, the Passion of Christ, by Deger. Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Temperance, by Ittenbach. Martyrdom of St. Apollinaris, b.y A. Muller. In the choir: on the 1. the Resurrection of Christ, by Deger. Noli me tangere, and Delivery of the keys to Peter, by Ittenbach. On the arch of the apse, the Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacraments, by C. Midler. In the apse, Christ among the Saints of the old and new Covenant, by Deger. On the r. of the choir, the Coronation of the Virgin, by C. Muller. In the S. transept, the Episcopal ordination of St. Apollinaris, by A. Muller. SS. Theo- dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and V. Paula, patrons of the founder and his family, by Ittenbach. Annunciation, Marriage, and Visitation of the Virgin (close to the window), by C. Muller. Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by Ittenbach. St. Apollinaris raises the daughter of the Governor of Ravenna, by A. Muller. On the r. on entering by the W. door, Scenes from the Le- gends of the Virgin, by Ittenbach. There is a very good distant view of the 7 mountains from the Apollinaris- berg. At the foot of the hill lies 1. Remagen (Inns: Konig von Preussen; Preussischer Hof, the best between Andernach and Bonn), the Rigomagus of the Romans, is a town of 1400 inhab.; it has nothing to -interest the traveller, except the Ro- manesque Gateway, part of the Palace of the Frankish kings, now leading to the Pfarrhof, close to the church, on which are sculptured the signs of the zodiac, executed probably at the end of the 11th cent, (these signs are seen on the portals of the Lombard churches in Italy): it may be seen while the horses are changing. During the construc- tion of the high road, many Roman Antiquities were dug up here. A most interesting excursion may be made hence by the Ahr valley (Route 39.). Landing here from the steamer, hire a carriage with post horses at the post, sleep at Altenahr, and return next morning with the same horses. The cost is about 7£ thalers for carriage and 3 horses, including driver, with an extra charge for horse-keep of 1 thaler at Altenahr. rt. Opposite Remagen rise the black basaltic precipices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler Lei. The ingenuity of man has converted these barren rocks, which are almost inaccessible, into a productive vineyard. The vines are planted in baskets filled with mould, and inserted in crevices of the basalt. By this means alone can the earth be preserved from being washed away by every shower. rt. The blackened walls of the ruined castle of Ockenfels. Below it lies - rt. Linz. (Inn: Nassauer Hof); an ancient fortified town, partly sur- rounded by walls of basalt; it has 2200 inhab. An Archbp. of Cologne, in 1365, built the tower, still standing, near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay- ment of tolls on the river, and to defend the place from the Burghers of Ander- nacb, who were engaged in almost per- petual feuds with him and the towns- people of Linz. The Pfarr Kirche, on the height behind, commands a fine view; it contains some curious monu- ments of the noble families of the neighbourhood, and 2 ancient pictures, each of 7 compartments, probably of the school of Cologne, bearing the date 1463 ; unfortunately almost destroyed. A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill be- hind Linz, as a memorial of the Battle of Leipzig. 1. The river Ahr issues into the Rhine opposite Linz. 1. 1^ Sinzig (Intis : Stern ; — Krone), about 1£ m. from the Rhine, but traversed by the high road, vyas the Sentiacum of the Romans. The Parish Church is an interesting build- ing, of the time of the transition from the round to the pointed style, dating probably from the beginning of the 13th cent. The decoration of the W. front, and of the ends of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller scale, those of the ch. at Neuss. The transition style is seen in the polygonal form of the choir, with a gable over each side.Rhenish Prussia. r. 37. — the Rhine (c). andernach. 273 The interior resembles the ch. at An- dernach, in having both pointed and circular arches, and over each aisle a gallery, called here the Mannhavs. According to an obscure tradition, near this spot the Cross appeared in the sky to Constantine, on his march to attack Maxentius. There is a rude painting representing this event in the church; and in an adjoining chapel, a natural mummy, called the Holy Vogt, carried to Paris by the French. rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Argenfels or Ahrenfels, the Stamm- haus, or cradle of the family von der Leyen, is seen in the distance behind the ancient village of Honningen. 1. The village of Niederbreisig, and, further from the river, Oberbreisig, with a curious cb. of the 14th cent. 1. The< castle of Rheineck, consist- ing of an ancient watch tower and a modern castellated residence adjoining, built, at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx, for Profr. Bethman Hollweg of Bonn. The architectural taste displayed in this edifice is very questionable; but it contains some modern pictures, and in its chapel are frescoes of the Beati- tudes by Stetnle. It is shown to stran- gers when the owner is absent. Its garden commands a fine view. 1. Brohl, a small village (Nonn’s Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the stream and valley of the Brohl. It possesses a paper-mill in which is a collection of Dutch pictures, and seve- ral others moved by the streams of the Brohl-Bach for grinding tuff-stone into trass (Dutch tiras—i. e. cement); and there are very singular cave-like quar- ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the stream. From the resemblance of this rock to the tufa formed at the present day by Etna, Vesuvius, and other ac- tive volcanoes, geologists conjecture that the tufa of Brohl has been formed either by a torrent of volcanic mud discharged from some extinct crater into the valley, or by showers of pu- mice and ashes, thrown up by one of the volcanoes of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mixing with the mud at the bottom of it, and now consolidated into a soft stone. This, when quarried and ground into powder, is called trass, and from its possessing the valuable pro- perty of hardening under water is in great request as a cement. Large quantities are exported from this to distant countries, especially into Hol- land, where it is employed in the con- struction of the dykes; it resembles the puzzolnna of Naples, and the imi- tation of it, Roman cement. The ancients made use of this kind of stone for coffins; and from its property of absorbing the moisture of the dead body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, i. e. flesh consumers. Votive tablets, bearing Roman inscriptions, have ac- tually been discovered in the quarries, proving at how early a period they were worked. Trunks of trees reduced to the condition of charcoal, and even land-shells of various species, are em- bedded in the substance of the rock. The mineral spring called Tonnis- stein, lies 4^ m. up the valley. (See R, 40. p. 304 ). The pleasant excursion to the Lake of Laach, described in Rte. 40., may be made from Brohl. The travelling carriage should be sent on to Ander- nach, and there rejoined. This excur- sion may be made in one long day. rt. On the summit of a bold, black, precipitous rock, stand the broken walls of Hammerstein castle, built in the 10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the emperor Henry IV., when per- secuted by his son. It was besieged by the Swedes in the 30 years’ war, and destroyed by the Archbp. of Cologne in 1660. The small old church within it is interesting. 1. Namedy has a pretty church. 2^ (1.) Andernach.—Inn: (Zur Lilie, The Lily, good), — one of the oldest cities on the Rhine, 3000 inhab. It was called by the Romans Antonacum, and originated in one of Drusus’ camps pitched on the spot. Most of the pre- sent fortifications date from 1577—83. The picturesque telescope Watch-tower, at the lower end of the town, by the water side, round below, and eight-sided above (date 1520); and the274 R. 37. —THE RHINE (c). ANDERNACH. NEUWIED. Sect. IV. Crane, a little lower down the stream, built 1554, add to its air of picturesque antiquity. There are two articles of traffic pe- culiar to this spot: millstones obtained from very singular quarries near Nieder Mendig, and exported to England, Russia, the East and West Indies, and to other remote parts of the world. They were used, by, the Romans, and have been found among Roman ruins in England, and are spoken of as Rhe- nish millstones by Latin authors. The stone is a species of basaltic lava which separates into columns, and is .used' as door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts at the corners of the streets, See. ( Rte. 40.) Another volcanic production is the trass, or cement, brought from the neighbouring quarries of Brohl and Kruft. A species of pumice called Oven-stone, because, from its resisting heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also obtained from 14 quarries at Bell near Nieder-Mendig. The Parish Ch. or Dom has 4 towers ; those at the W. end tall and much or- namented; the greater part of it was built in the beginning of the 13th cent., but the choir, the tower on its N. side, and the lower part of that on its S. side, belong probably to a preceding church of the 10th, which so far es- caped the destruction of Andernach by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv- ings of the capitals which support it, and the ornaments on the W. fa£ade, are interesting specimens of sculpture. The interior is supported upon two tiers of arches of nearly equal height; behind the upper tier runs a spacious gallery, intended for the male part of the congregation, and called the man- nerchor, or mannshaus; the women sate below. It- cofltains some curious carv- ings, and a Homan tomb, erroneously said to be of Valentinian II. The pul- pit once belonged to the abbey ch. at Laacb. The ' Franciscan ch. 1414-63, now a stable, has only 2 aisles. . Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jews’ Bath, of 'considerable antiquity (per- haps Roman). It has not been used since the Jews were expelled from the town, 1596; they have never since been allowed to settle here. The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Go- thic portal, not a Roman work, as is commonly reported. Adjoining it, on the right of the: road, are the extensive ruins of, the . castellated Palace of the Archbishops of Cologne, built, about the end of the 15th centy. The Palace of the Austrasian kings stood .either on this spot or close to the river, near an old gateway, which is possibly of Rq-. man origin. A short distance off, on the right of the road, are the noble ruins of the Abbey of St. Thomas, a convent for ladies of rank, whieh was bur nt in 1795. It is now turned into a very extensive tannery, and partly into an asylum for incurable lunatics. The architecture of St. Michael’s chapel, attached to it, is interesting: it was built in 1129. The excursion to the lake and abbey of Laach ( Rte. 40.) may be made in a carriage from hence, as a tolerable road leads thither through Wassenach (6 m.) At Andernach, the mountains on both sides of the Rhine again approach the river, and form a majestic defile. rt. At the water’s edge stands the ruined castle of Friedrichsstein, or the Teufelshaus, i. e., Devil’s House,: so called, probably by the peasants or serfs, who were compelled to build it by forced labour. It was begun in the 17 centy. by a prince of Neuwied, but never finished. rt. Behind the village of Irrlich the small river Wied issues out into the Rhine. A n avenue of poplars joins Irrlich with the town of rt. Neuwied. Inns : Rheinischer Hof: Anker:)—Wilder Mann, 2d class.— Caesar’s Hotel, good. A neat and uniform town of straight streets, crossing each other at right angles, (5200 inhab.), is the capital of the principality of Wied, now media- tized, and attached to Prussia. It was founded only as far back as 1737 by a prince .who invited colonists of all per- suasions, from all parts, to come and settle, with, the promise of perfect tole- ration. The wisdom of such liberality: has been proved by the flourishing con-Rhenish Prussia. r. 37. — the Rhine (c). weissenthurm:. 275 dition of the industrious manufacturing town which has sprung, up in conse- quence, .and by the harmony in which Jews, Catholics, Protestants, andHerrn- huters, live all together. The Palace ( Residenz Schloss) of the prince, overlooking the Rhine, pos- sesses a collection of Roman antiquities discovered in this neighbourhood, and principally derived from the buried city of Victoria, near the village of Niederbiber, 2 m. N. of Neuwied. The objects brought to light comprise a bronze genius nearly 2 ft. high, ar- mour, helmets, weapons, a plough- share, locks and keys, tools of various trades, and a sacrificial knife, pottery and coins in great abundance, tiles, hand-mills; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, and a large quantity of oyster-shells, proving that the garrison of a remote colony in the 3d century sent all the way to the sea for the luxuries of the table. Many tiles have been found stamped with the names and numbers of the legions quartered here. No coins have come to light of a later date than the time of Valentinian the elder, who died a. d. 375, which fixes the date of the destruction of Victoria with an approach to precision. The remains of the city from which these curiosities were derived have long since been covered up, and crops of com and grass again wave above its site. In the building called the Phea- santry (Fasanerie Gebaude) is the Museum of Natural History, principally remarkable for the collections made by Prince Maximilian of Neuwied dur- ing his travels in Brazil and North America, The Colony of Moravian Brothers exceeds 400, who occupy a distinct quarter of Neuwied: their establish- ment, church, schools, and workshops are worth seeing. The park and gardens of the chateau of Monrepos, situated between the Wied and the Rhine, 6 in. N. N. £. from Neuwied, form a pleasant excursion* and afford beautiful prospects.- There is a flying bridge over the Rhine at Neuwied. From Andernach to Coblenz the banks of the Rhine are flat. (1.) Weissenthurm (White Tower), so called from the square watch-tower built by the electors of Treves to mark the frontier of their domain, is a small village (whose new church is decorated with modern frescoes,) through which the road passes, a little above Neuwied, on the opposite bank. It is remark- able as the spot where the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the oppo- sition of the Austrians, in 1797. On on eminence behind, to the right of the road, stands an Obelisk, erected to the memory of the French general Hoche, who achieved that memorable exploit by throwing a bridge across to the island in the middle of the river. The monument bears the simple inscription, “ L’Armee de Sanibre et Meuse & son General Hoche.” Byron says of it, “ This is all, and as it should be ; Hoche was esteemed among the first of France’s earlier generals, until Napoleon mono- polised her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland.” Caesar, when lead- ing his army against the Sicambri, 17 centuries before, crossed the Rhine at the same spot, and has described the very curious bridge which he con- structed for the passage. (1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the road quits -the side of the Rhine, and con- tinues out of sight of it till near to Coblenz. (rt.) Engers, a small .village, with an old-fashioned Chateau, built 1758 by the Elector of Treves, facing the river; a short way above this, the remains, of a Roman bridge, built b. c. 38, are dis- coverable in the bed of the river. (rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the mouth of the river Sayn. A good road' strikes up the valley behind the village of Bendorf, and leads in 3 m. from En- gers, and about 8 m. from Coblenz, to the village and modern Chateau of Sayn, belonging to the Count Boos, overlooked by the picturesque ruins of the old castle of Sayn, destroyed in the 30 years’ war, above which rises the romantic Renneberg. Not far off are the Rnyal Cannon Foundry and Iron276 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). MARCEAU. Sect. IV. Works (Sayner Hiitte), equal in extent to some of the most considerable iron works in .England: very pretty cast- iron ornaments, similar to the black ware of Berlin, are made here. At the village of Sayn is a suppressed Prae- monstrant abbey, founded 1202, with a church in the transition style, having a pointed arch, cupola, and a choir formed by 6 sides of an octagon, built 1400. At the upper extremity of the valley is the castle of the Counts of Isenburg, whence they used to sally forth and plunder the merchants upon the Rhine. The whole valley is beau* tiful; the stream of the Sayn gives it verdure; its woody sides afford a cool shelter even in summer, and are inter- sected with walks, and provided with seats and summer-houses. It is a favourite excursion of the people of Coblenz. N. of the valley, about 1£ m. N. of Sayn, and as far N. E. of En- gers, on the slope of a hill, stands the noble abbey Rommersdorf. The church was consecrated in 1210 : the chapter- house and cloister were built between 1214—1236. The mouldings of the doors and arches, the quatrefoil open- ings, and pointed arches of the cloister show the approach of the pointed style. The abbey has become the property of a private individual, and is well pre- served. (rt.) Walls and buildings of the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein (p. 279.), on the top of its massive and commanding rock pedestal, - are visible long before Coblenz appears behind the green slopes of the 1. bank. 1. Neuendorf: here the comparatively small timber rafts from the upper Rhine and its tributaries, and from the Mo- selle, are formed into the large rafts which descend to Holland (see p. 263.). (1.) Near Kesselheim are remains of the chateau of Schonbornlust, originally ^palace of the Elector of Treves, and only remarkable because it was the residence of the Bourbon princes and their supporters who were exiled from France during the 1st revolution. It became the head-quarters of the army of the Refugees and their allies, and their plans of invading France were here concocted. The part of the building now standing serves as an inn. The plain between Andernach and Coblenz becomes every 3 years the scene of very extensive military re- views of the Prussian army; 25,000 men are manoeuvred on these occasions, usually in August or September, for the space of one month. (I.) Near the junction of the Moselle and Rhine stands the “ Monument of the young and lamented General Mar- ceau, killed at the battle of Altenkir- chen, in attempting to check the retreat of Jour dan, on the last day of the 4th year of the French republic.” (Sept. 21, 1796.) ng the summit or the verdaat mound; Beneath its base are heroes’ ashes hid, Our enemy’s — but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau ! o’er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush’d from the rough sol- dier's lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. “ Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes; And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for his gallant spirit’s bright repose; For he was Freedom’s champion, one of The fe The ch those, :w in i eiv in number, who had not o’erstept harter to chastise which she bestows On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o’er him wept." Byron. Byron adds: “ The inscriptions on his monument are rather too long, and not required: his name was enough. France adored, and her enemies ad- mired ; both wept over him. His funeral was attended by the generals and detachments from both armies.” It was in allusion to the last circumstance, that the words of the Imperial captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed his last under nearly similar circumstances, were inscribed on the monument. “ Je voudrais qu’il m’eut coute le quart de mon sang, et vous tinse en sante moil prisonnier I Quoique je sais, que l’Em- pereur mon maitre n’eut en ses guerres plus rude ni facheux, ennemi."—-Me-Rhenish Prussiit. route 37.—the rhine (c). coblenz. 277 moires de Bayard. On another side of tl e monument were inscribed the words, “ Qui que tu sois, ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune h£ros respecte les cendres.” This injunction has not been exactly complied with. The monument ori- ginally stood where the fort Empr. Francis now stands, but was pulled down in 1817, to make room for it. Hoche was buried in the grave with Marceau, though his monument is at Weissenthurm. Whether the bodies were removed or not is not clearly as- certained ; but some time after, the tomb was rebuilt at the command of the late King of Prussia, in a field to the right of the road from Cologne to Coblenz. 1. After passing under the works of the Fort Empr. Francis, which the French commenced, and called Fort Marceau, the road crosses the Mosel by a handsome stone bridge, a short distance above its confluence with the Rhine, and enters Coblenz. The breaking up of the frost is some- times attended with danger to the town of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the ice on the Mosel came down, while the Rhine was still frozen over; and being forced on by the current, while there was no outlet for its discharge, was raised into vast heaps near the junction of the river, so as to overtop the stone bridge across the Mosel, and the quays along its banks. Indeed, but for these quays, then recently bnilt, it is pro- bable some of the houses in the lower town would have been injured, as the icebergs were piled up against them to a height of 10 feet, and the boats moored in front of them were crushed by the weight. The water of the Mosel rose so high as to break over the tongue of land on its left bank, ^threatening de- struction to the village of Neuendorf, whose inhabitants took to flight; and it even floated up the Rhine on the top of the ice as far as Boppart! The fields between the 2 rivers were covered with ice, and all communication by the road cut off. The vast Palace of the Electors of Treves (now the Kings) (p. 278.), extending along the bank of the Rhine, is conspicuous, as the steamer reaches her moorings off 2£ 1. Coblenz. — Inns: The 3 fol- lowing face the Rhine; the Giant ( Riese), nearest to the landing place of the steamers, is very good and mo- derate. Charges, Table-d’hote, with wine, 24 S. gr.; Tea, 10 S. gr.; Break- fast, 12 S. gr.; Beds, 15 S. gr. to 21 S. gr. H. Bellevue, and next door to it, the Trois Suisses; Trierischer Hof (Poste), in the great Square. Those who do not mind crossing the bridge to Ehrenbreitstein will find the White Horse, Zum Weissen Ross (Cheval blanc) one of the best managed hotels on the Rhine. The landlord is a ci- devant major in the Wurtemberg army. Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and rt. of the Mosel. The Romans called it Confluentes, modernised into Coblenz, from its situation at the confluence of these 2 rivers. It is the capital of the Rhenish provinces of Prussia, and its population, including that of Ehren- breitstein, and 4000 men in garrison, is 26,000. The extensive fortifications, which occupied nearly 20 years to complete, connect the works on the 1. bank of the Rhine with the citadel of Ehren- breitstein on the rt. bank, and render Coblenz the bulwark of Germany and Prussia on the side of France. These vast defences form a fortified camp capable of containing 100,000 men, and are unique in their way, combining the 2 systems of fortification of Carnot and Montalembert. The works round the town, external and detached, are the Fort Kaiser Franz below it, on the left bank of the Mosel, which commands the approach from Cologne and Treves. The forts Alexander and Constantine, above the town, on the site of the convent of the Chartreuse, command the roads to Mayence and that over the Hundsriick mountains, and lastly, the many- mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, with some important works on neigh- bouring heights, sweep the stream of the Rhine, and the road to Nassau.' The presence of the military andSect. IV. 278 ROUTE 37.—THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. civil government, and of an extensive garrison; the situation of the town in the centre of the great highway, up and down the Rhine, nearly equi-distant from Cologne and Mayence, at the point of junction of the roads to Frank- ftirt and by Treves to Paris; its vici- nity to the fashionable watering place, £ms; and the number of persons daily arriving and departing by coaches, carriages, and steam-boats, render Co- blenz a lively and bustling place, espe- cially in summer. The objects worth notice in the Old Town are — The Church of St. Castor, at the very confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished by its 4 towers, is remarkable for its very great antiquity, having been “built chiefly at the expense, and consecrated in the presence, of Louis the. Pious (in 836), and is the earliest instance of the appearance, of the Lombard style in the Rhenish provinces.” — G. K. It was the place where the grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to divide his vast empire into Germany, France, and Italy. The oldest parts art the interior of the choir, and the lower walls of the western towers. In the 11th century it suffered from fire; the exterior of the choir, dates from 1157 and 1201; the nave and transept from 1208; the vaulting from 1498. In 1830 the church was restored, under the direction of Lassaulx. On the left of the chancel stands the beautiful tomb of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. of Treves (d. 1388); it is of the 14tb cent., and is ornamented with a painting of the Crucifixion, attributed to the old German master, William of Cologne. In 1338, King Edward III. repaired to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Lewis of Bavaria, who installed him in front of this church Vicar of the Empire, in order that he might secure the succour of the Crown-vassals on the 1. bank of the Rhine, to aid him in bis designs against France. In the square in front of this church stands a Monument, erected by the French in 1812. It is a Fountain bearing an inscription . to commemo- rate the Invasion of Russia by the French, affixed to it by the French Prefetof the Departement, at the time of Napoleon’s expedition. This in- scription had not stood many months, before the Russians, pursuing the army of Napoleon, arrived here on their way to Parish Their commander, St. Priest, instead of erasing the ob- noxious words, contented himself with the following sarcastic addition, which remains to the present time: “ Vu et approuve par nous, Commandant Russe de la Ville de Coblence, Jan- vier ler, 1814,” The Liebfrauenkirche.is very curious with early pointed arches and scalloped windows in the style of Cologne. It was originally built in 1259; the choir 1404—1431; the vaulting about 1500; the Upper parts of the towers after the siege of 1688. The Protestant Church contains fine painted glass, very early, in the style of that in the Jerusalem Chamber at Westminster, brought from Nassau. The person who keeps the keys lives in one of the oldest houses in Europe, close to the Ch.”— F. S. The Mosel Bridge (b. 1344) com- mands a pleasing view up and down the river, and along the picturesque old buildings which line the quay. Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient Town Hall, and the original Castle oj the Electors of Treves, built 1280, now a manufactory of Japan ware. One of the first buildings on the 1. hand, after passing through the archway from the bridge, is the “ Stamm Hans ” (family house) of Prince Mettermch, the Aus- trian Prime Minister, who was born ip it. There are many other seats of the ancient nobility of the empire, as that of the Princes von der Leyden, Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hospital is under the exemplary management of the “ Sceurs de^la Charity.” The principal building in the New Town is the Palace of the King, who has caused it to be fitted up for his summer residence. Its long and hand- some fa9ade extends along the Rhine, aboye the Bridge of Boats; its prin- cipal front is turned towards the Great Square, near which the parade is held between 12 and 1 o’clock, when the band plays. It was built by the last Elector of Treves, Clement Wences*Rhen. Prussia. b. 37.—the Rhine (c), ehbenbreitstein. 279 laus, Prince of Poland, Duke of Saxony, and uncle of Louis XVI., 1778—1788. The building was degraded by the French into barracks. It contains nothing worth notice. The service of the. Church of Eng- land is performed in the beautiful Pa- lace Chapel by an English clergyman twice every Sunday. On the top of the palace stands a telegraph, the first of a line, which communicates a. mes- sage to Berlin in about half an hour. The new Palace of Justice contains the Law Courts, which are open to the public. Justice is administered by judges in gowns, but without wigs, and by trial by jury. The assizes are held every 3 months.. The Casino, or town club, is of chaste architecture; it has an elegant ball- and good reading-rooms, and gardens. Close at hand is ah ancient Convent of Jesuits, now the grammar school. The Cellars beneath it well deserve to be visited from their vast extent ;, they are so lofty and wide that a stage-coach loaded might easily drive round them. They belong to Messrs. Deinhard and Jordan, bankers and wine merchants here, and contain about 300 vats of Rhine and: Moselle wines, each equal to 7 ohms, or altogether to about 400,000 bottles. • A very agreeable sparkling wine is made from the grapes of the Rhine and Moselle ; and the vines which grow under the very guns of Ehren- breitsfein. furnish, under skilful ma- nagement, a highly flavoured wine, which is no bad substitute for Cham- pagne. Coblenz is a free port, and carries on an active commerce, up and down the 3 rivers, Rhine, Moselle, and Lahn, supplying the country around with colonial produce. From its vicinity to the wine.districts, it forms the na- tural staple place of the Rhine and Moselle wines,- going down the river to Great Britain,.Holland, and other parts of the world. About a million jars of Seltzers, and other mineral waters from the Duchy of Nassau, are shipped annually from hence. Corn and the excellent iron of the neigh- bourhood are exported up the Moselle into France. The volcanic produce tions of this country form very peculiar articles of trade; such are the lava itself, in the shape of millstones, and the ashes, or pumice stone, ground to form Dutch tiras: these, as well, as potter’s clay from the Moselle, bark from the forests of the Eifel and Huns- driick, and stone ware from the Sauer- land, a mountainous and poor district of Westphalia, N. of the Duchy of Nassau, are much in request in Hol- land. Neuendorf a little below Coblenz, is the rendezvous for the great timber rafts. No town on the Rhine surpasses Coblenz in the beauty of its situation: from whatever side you approach, by land or water, it presents a beautiful picture. The views from the centre of the bridge of boats, from the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfaffendorf, ox of the Chartreuse, are all fine. The most interesting object in the vicinity, on account of its towering and majestic appearance, for the glorious view of the junction of the Rhine ami Moselle, and of the course of the Rhine from Stolzenfels down to An- dernach, which it commands, and for the vast extent of its fortifications, is the rock and fortress of (rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour’s broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. An order to see it must be obtained from the commandant in Coblenz (Regierungs gebaude), which a valet-de-place will easily pro- cure, on presenting the passport. This fortress, originally a Roman Casfruni, was, during the middle ages, the refiige and stronghold of the Elec- tors of Treves, who, in later times, oc-i cupied the Palace (now a flour ware- house) at the foot of the rock, before the erection of their more princely re- sidence on the opposite side, of the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by the French in 1688, under Marshal Bouf- flers, notwithstanding the celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XIV. repaired hither, in order to be the eye-witness of its surrender. But it fell into their280 R. 37. — THE RHINE (c). . EHRENBREITSTEIN. Sect. IV. hands in 1799, after a siege in which the garrison was reduced to such ex- tremities from want of food, that a cat was sold for florin, and horse flesh rose to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Luneville. “ Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter’d wall Black with the miner’s blast upon her Hack witn height, t sho ball Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ill foes was w; But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer’s rain — On which the iron shower for years had pour’d in vain.” — Byron. It is now no longer a ruin. Since 1814, the Prussians have spared no pains or cost in restoring it, and add- ing new works, which have been only recently brought to a conclusion, and it is considered to be stronger than ever. Prussia devoted to the re-con- struction of this fortress her share of the contribution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war ; but more than 4 times that sum has probably been expended on it by the Prussian government. The entire cost of the works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have exceeded 5 million! of dollars, and al- though they may be converted into a fortified camp holding 100,000 men, yet a garrison of 5000 is enough to defend them. The magazines are ca- pable of containing provisions for 8000 men for 10 years. Ehrenbreitstein is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would bid defiance to almost any assault: its weak -point is on the N.W, Here, however, art has done its utmost to repair a natural defect, and 3 lines of defences present themselves one within another, which would require to be taken in succession before the enemy could enter in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, serving as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of holding a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. Tbere is, besides, a well, sunk 400 feet deep, in the rock ^communicating with the Rhine: the Rhine water, however, is very unwholesome, from the quantity of vegetable matter decomposed in it. Those who reach Coblenz too late to get an order to see Ehrenbreitstein, may content themselves with the view from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (a hill on the same side of the Rhine), which is nearly as fine. (1.) Hill of the Chartreuse____The view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, even surpassed by that from the heights of the Chartreuse ( Karthauserberg), on the left bank of the Rhine, about £ m. above Coblenz. It receives its name from an old convent, now removed to make way for Forts Alexander and Constantine. It is nearly as high as Ehrenbreitstein, and that stupendous rock and citadel form the grandest feature of the view from this point: while, by approaching the verge of the hill, on one side, the Rhine is seen, with the fortified heights of Pfaffendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Moselle flows at the gazer’s-feet. There are so many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which Excursions may be made, that it deserves to be chosen as a halting place for some days, (a.) To’ the Castle of Stolzenfds, 3 m. up, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, on the road to Mayence, p.282. (vehicles (einspanner, with one horse) may be found near the Mainzer Thor to take you there and back for one thaler — with two horses 1 th. 10 S. gr.); (6.) to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz; (c.) to Ldhnstein, on the r. bank of the Rhine, p. 283.; (d.) to Sayn, and the Abbey of Rommersdorf, p. 276. Tours of a day may be made to the Abbey and Lake of Loach (Rte. 40.) ; to the Castle of Elz (Rte. 41.) ; to Neuwied below Engers, p. 274. ; to the Castle of Marhsburg, p. 283.; which may be thus arranged: — Hire a carriage to Niederspay, opposite Braubach (2 dol- lars), stopping to see Stolzenfels and Konigsstuhl. Cross the ferry at Nie-Rhenish Prussia, route 37.—the Rhine (c). Coblenz. 281 derspay, ascend to the Marksburg (2 hours required to see it). Descend the Rhine in a boat, which costs 20 S. gr., to Niederlahnstein and Coblenz. To Ems and Nassau (Rte. 95.) A pleasant excursion of 2 days may be made to the Baths of Bertrich, returning by the Moselle, and in this short space the traveller may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river pre- sents. (See Rte. 42.). The numerous forests around abound in game, roes, [stags, wild boar, and even wolves. The preserves of the Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are richly stocked, and they are known to be liberal in admitting foreigners to their shooting parties, so that Coblenz is good sporting quarters in autumn and winter. Hints for making the Tour of the Rhine, above Coblenz__The direct road to the Brunnen of Nassau (Rte. 95.) strikes away from the Rhine at Cob- lenz ; but as a great part of it is unin- teresting, and as some of the finest scenery of the Rhine lies between Cob- lenz and Bingen, those who wish to explore its beauties will find it far pre- ferable to adhere to the post road running along the left bank as far as Bingen, and there, crossing the river into the Rheingau, turn off to Wies- baden. In this case it is advisable to make am Excursion from Coblenz to Ems, and the castle of Nassau, 6 m. beyond it. (See Rte. 95.). A car- riage may be hired for dollars to Ems. Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beautiful Moselle to Treves (Rte. 41.), returning by the river in the Steamer (Rte. 42.). They who cannot spare time to go all the way to Treves, will find it worth their while to devote ]■£ or two days to an excursion to Munster-Mayfeld, the castle of Elz, and the village of Alf, situated on the Moselle, at a spot where its scenery is most beautiful, and to the Baths of Bertrich. (Rte. 42.). A good summer’s day’s excursion may be made by hiring a carriage from Coblenz, to go by the Treves nig, where are the remains of a fine old Romanesque church, with semicircular apsis, colonnade, &c., then to Miinster- Maifeld, p. 307., and so on to the hill above Elz, where leave the carriage to go to Gondorf, and cross the Moselle to Niederfell by the ferry, and refresh. Meanwhile the traveller can see Elz, walk to Moselkern, or to Hatzenport, there take boat and fall down the river to Gondorf or Cobern; after seeing which he can from either recross the river to his carriage at or near Niederfell, and back to Coblenz by the rt. bank, by a new, but bad, carriage road, p. 319. A long day and an early start are desirable, as it will be too late to return to Coblenz by the down boat, and the road is not to be recommended in the dark. The young peasant girls in the country around Coblenz wear before marriage a very elegant cap richly embroidered, with a silver-gilt arrow or stiletto stuck through their hair. First-rate physicians are Dr. Ulrich, Dr. Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who understand English. (For Fees see §41.) The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent. Baedeker, a very intelligent book- seller in the Rhein Strasse, 452, leading from the bridge, at the corner of the square, keeps a good assortment of English, French, and German books, guide-books, prints, maps, &c., and is the publisher of one of the best Tra- vellers' Manuals of Conversation. He has also translated and printed a Ger- man edition of the Hand-books, and is personally acquainted with all parts of his own country. Steamers several times a-day up to Mayence, and down to Cologne; up the Moselle daily to Treves, in 1£ day, returning in 10 hrs. (Rte. 41.) SchtieUposts (§ 50.) to Cologne twice a-day; daily to Mayence; to Treves ; to Cassel, by Wetzlar and Giessen, in 26 hrs. ; and to Frankfurt by Ems, Schwalbach, and Wiesbaden. Omnibus to Ems several times a- day. Droskies (cabs) are much cheaper than those hired at the hotels,282 R. 38.—THE RHINE (d). ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (o). COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. The post road along the 1. bank of the Rhine is 12 Pruss. m. = 56 Eng. m. Steamers (5 or 6 daily) upwards in 8 hrs.; down in 5 hrs. Schnellpost daily in 9 hrs. to Mayence ; in 7j hrs. to Kreutznach by Bingen. Immediately above Coblenz the mountains close in upon the Rhine, which flows througha contracted gorge, extending as far as Bingen. The dark shadows of the mountains, the nume- rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled and turreted towns, are the prominent features of its unrivalled scenery, the effect of which is heightened by histo- rical associations, and the charms of romance and chivalry. On quitting Coblenz, we pass (1.) Forts Alexander and Constantine; and on the rt. bank another fort, crowning the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a village of that name.. They have been fortified with as much care and expence as the citadel itself (rt.) Horchheim is the last Prussian village : it is opposite to the island .Oberwerth, upon which stands the country-house of Count Pfaffeuhofdn, formerly a nunnery. (1.) Stolzenfels, a castle, finely placed on a jutting rock overlooking the Rhine and the little village of Kapellen, and nearly opposite the confluence of the Lahn, 3 m. above Coblenz. Its picturesque outline and commanding position seem to justify its name of the Proud Rock, and render it one of the most imposing feudal castles on the Rhine. It is one of the nume- rous fortresses built by the Arch- bishops of. Treves, and was a favourite residence of several of those princely Prelates, The princess Isabella, sister of Henry III. of England, and bride of the Emp. Frederick II., was lodged here with a splendid retinue in 1235. It was destroyed hy the French- in 1688, and had been abandoned to de- cay, until it was presented by the town of Coblenz to the present king of COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. Sect. IV. Prussia, while Crown Prince, by whom it has been restored. Unfortunately, the repairs have been executed in very bad taste, recalling to mind the car- penter’s Gothic of Strawberry Hill. A fine carriage road has been formed, partly by bridging a ravine up to the castle, and is carried thence in zigzags to the top of the neighbouring hill. Pretty plantations and walks have been laid out around it. One apartment (the Rittersaal) is painted by Stilke with frescoes; representing the knightly virtues and accomplishments of Cou- rage, Fidelity, Justice, Perseverance, Love, and Music, by scenes from his- tory. 1. Courage: the death of the blind King John of Bohemia at the battle of Crecy, 27 Aug. 1346, after having fastened his horse to those of two knights. 2. Fidelity: Herman von Siebeneichen saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by exposing himself to the Guelph assassins, having compelled the Emperor to fly. 3. Love : the Emp- Fred. II. receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, sister of Henry III. 4. Music : Phillip of Swabia and his wife Irene sailing down the Rhine, sur- rounded by the most famous minstrels of their day. 5. Justice : Rudolph of Hapsbnrg re-establishes general peace. 6. Perseverance: Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his arms in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. On the window side are St. Gereon, St- George, St. Mau- rice, and St. Reinhold. In another room is an armoury, where are pre- served the swords of Tilly, Blucher, Napoleon, Murat, See. The castle is often resorted to by the, Coblenzers on account of its fine view. An hotel has been built at the foot of the rock, and donkeys swarm to convey the strangers up it. Not long ago, Stolzenfels was offered for sale at 70 dollars (Ilf.) without finding a purchaser. The King of Prussia received Queen Victoria here in 1845. Both banks of the Lahn and the rt. bank of the Rhine, nearly all the way hence to Mayence, belongs to Nassau. (rt.) Below the mouth of the Lahn stands the Church of St, John, built about 1100, but reduced to a ruinRhen. Prussia, r. 38.— Rhine (d). rhense. braubach. 283 through a law-suit about the liability of the titheowner to repair it, which lasted 40 years. The choir is square outside, but curved within; the sa- cristy has elliptical vaulting: a tower is raised very boldly upon columns : the great tower is the oldest. Beyond it is the village of Nieder Lahnstein, on the right bank of the Lahn. Here the Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the Rhine in 1814. Douquet’s Inn, at Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and its small court-yard commands fine views. There is a ferry over the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Lahnstein, and an- other over the Lahn at its mouth, and a good carriage road leads up its right bank to Eras. It is proposed to render the "Lahn navigable up to Weilburg, a .difficult scheme, but of vast importance to Nassau, by opening an outlet for the produce of its mines, and for that of the agriculture of Wetteravia and Upper Hesse. (rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, on the top, of a rock, are. the ruins of the Castle of Lahneck, which gave rise to Goethe’s verses .“ Geister Grass.” Oberlahnstein, an old unaltered walled town, whose most conspicuous edifice is the red Castle of the Electors of Mayence, on the margin of the Rhine. Just without its walls a little white chapel is visible among the trees; it is memorable as [the spot where the Electors met to pronounce the depo- sition of the weak and indolent Em- peror Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert emperor in his stead (1400). (1.) Rhense {Inn. Zum Konigs- stuhl), one of the least altered towns on the Rhine; its timber houses, few of which are newer than the 16th cen- tury, and some even of the 14th century, retain entirely the mediaeval German aspect. The road passes through it. A little below it is the Konigstuhl (King’s Seat), where the Electors used to meet to deliberate on affairs of the Empire.. It is an open vaulted hall with 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in the middle, and with 7 stone seats round the side, for the, 7 Electors'. Here many treaties of peace were concluded, emperors dethroned and elected, and here the Emp. Maximilian appeared in person to take the oaths. It was allowed to go to ruin under the French government, and was pulled down 1807, but has been rebuilt, in its original shape, and partly out of the old ma- terials (1843). This situation was selected from its vicinity to the terri- tories of the four Rhenish Electors. The town of Rhense belonged to the Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, Capellen and Stolzenfels to. Treves, and Braubach to the Palatinate; Thus each could repair to this spot, or retire from it into his own dominions, in a few minutes’ time. (rt.) Braubach, a small town, with a Chateau; at the water side (now turned into an Inn, zur Pliillipsburg), stands at the foot of a high and almost conical rock, surmounted by the imposing Castle of Marxburg, an unaltered speci- men of a stronghold of the middle ages, and on this account deserving of a visit. It is sometimes used as a prison, and is garrisoned by a corps of invalids. It is indeed the beau-ideal of the old Ritter- schloss, with mysterious narrow pas- sages, winding stairs; vaults hewn in the living rock, which served in former days as dungeons; among them the horrible pit called Sundloch ( Doghole), into which prisoners were let down, as a bucket into a well; by a windlqss ; and above all, a chamber of torture (Falter- kammer), whence the rack has been only lately removed. Here is shown, the cell in which the Emp. Henry IV. was confined. A secret passage is said to pass down through the rock to a tower on.the borders of the river. The view from the top of the Donjon keep (called Wimpel) will please the lover of the picturesque. Braubach is about 7 m. from Eras. A tolerable road connects the two places (R. 95.). £Just out of the town, at the road side, is a delicious spring of mineral _water, re- sembling that of Setters. In order to visit Marxburg from the 1. bank of the Rhine, cross the river at Niederspay, where there is a ferry to Braubach. (1.) Three small villages close toge- ther, called Mittlespay, Peterspay, and284 route 38. — the Rhine (d). boppart. Sect. IV. Oberspay. The Rhine here makes a very great bend, and does not recover its former direction till Boppart is passed. (rt.) 2 m. above Braubach, nearly opposite Oberspay, is a mineral spring, called Dinkholder Brunnen. (rt.) Above the little village of Os- terspay rises the Castle [of Liebeneck,' with white walls. (1.) Boppabt.* Inns. Post. Rhein- ischer Hof, new : Spiegel: A very an- cient walled town, with 3500 inhab. and dark narrow streets, no better than lanes. It was the Roman Baudobriga, and, like many other places upon the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle built by Drusus, and the walls of this Castrum, an oblong square of Roman masonry, still exist in the heart of the town: the outer walls date from the middle ages. Boppart was made an Imperial city, and many Diets of the Empire were held in it. The Haupt- kirche, built about 1200, and distin- guished by its twin pointed spires united by a gallery like a bridge, “ is remarkable for the various shapes of the arches, in its front sides and semi-octa- gonal absis : some of the latter being pointed, but evidently of the same age with the round headed : small gallery under the roof of the absis: inside gal- leries [over the aisles, mannercKore~\ with small round-headed arches, sup- ported on twin columns, and enclosed in larger ones: wall-plates with arches, some round, some pointed, some in slips: a rosette in the pediment. ”— Hope. A remarkable door on the 1. of the apse, at the E. end, surmounted by 3 concentric arches of peculiar arrange- ment is well worth the architect’s notice.” F. S. The Carmditerkirche contains a curious monument of the &mily von Elz, — rich specimens of sculpture of the 16th century, but mu- tilated. Within the picturesque streets, the antiquary, architect, and artist will find much to interest them. The Bayerhaus present some peculiarities of architecture. It was the house of the family of Bayer von Boppart, the ally of Rudolph of Hapsburg in the destruction of the robber-nests on the Rhine. The Tempelhof preserves the re- collection of the Knights Templars of Boppart, who first mounted the breach at the storming of Ptolemais in the 3d Crusade. The large Convent of Marienburg, built 1738, behind Boppart, once a cotton-mill, afterwards a girl’s school, is now converted into a medical board- ing-house for the Water-cure. The Miihlbad near the river is another es- tablishment of the same sort. Between Boppart and Salzig (1.), famed for its cherry orchards, the mountains recede somewhat from the banks of the river, and give place to corn-fields and meadows. (rt.) A little higher up than the vil- lage of Kamp, immediately above the ancient Convent of Bornhofen (where is a 2-aisled ch. exhibiting some bold construction), and opposite Salzig, rise the mouldering towers of the twin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, crowning the double summit of a lofty rock, covered with vines. They go by the name of the Brothers, and are inte- resting from their picturesqueness and the tale of their owners, two brothers, who having fallen in love with the same fair maid, became foes, and settled their rivalry by the sword, and fell by each others’ hands. The castles belonged to the Electors of Treves. (rt.) Ehrenthal, where are silver, lead, and copper works, producing 100,000 florins annually : a little above this is Welmich, a small village at the foot of a mountain, surmounted by the ruined castle of Thiirnberg, or Kunoberg, built by Kuno v. Falkenstein, the Archbp: of Treves (1363), called “the Mouse,” in contrast to “ the Cat," another castle above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, however, was generally the stronger of the two, so that the Cat trembled be- fore it. It is one of the most perfect castles on the Rhine; the wood-work alone is wanting ; the walls are entire! Fine view. (1.) Close above the town of St. Goar rises the vast Fortress of RheinfeU, the , most extensive ruin on the Rhine. The * 3 Germ, miles Boppart, relay.285 Rhenish Prussia, r. 38. — the original castle was built by a Count Diether of Katzenellnbogen (1245) as a stronghold where he could reside, and also exact toll, or, as we should say at present, levy transit duties upon all merchandize passing up or down the Rhine. An attempt, however, on his part to increase these duties roused the indignation of his neighbours, and his castle was besieged in vain for 15 months by the burghers of the adjacent towns. This unsuccessful attempt was productive of more important conse- quences : it was one of The circum- stances which gave rise to the extensive confederacy of the German and Rhenish cities, to the number of 60, whose more numerous and formidable armies re- duced and dismantled not only the castle of Rheinfels, but also most of the other strongholds, or robber-nests, upon the Rhine. This event took place in the latter part of the 13th cent. The castle afterwards came into the possession of the Landgrave of Hesse, who, at a very considerable expense, converted it into a modern fortress, with bastions and casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by an army of 24,000 French, under Mar- shal Tallard, who had promised the fortress as a new year’s gift to his master, Louis XIV. ; but, through the brave defence of the Hessian general Gortz, was compelled to break his word, and draw ofF his forces. His example was not followed in 1794, when, though its works had been greatly strengthened, it was basely abandoned by the Hessian garrison, without firing a shot, on the first appearance of the revolutionary French army, by whom it was blown up, and rendered useless. Below Rhein- fels lies the post-town of • (1.) St. Goar____Inn, Zur Lilie (the Lily), now united with the Kaiser von Russland. St. Goar lies in the midst of the finest scenes of the Rhine : it is, therefore, well placed for a day’s halt. The views in its vicinity are among the most picturesque in the whole course of the river, and the rocks which hem it in are peculiarly wild and * If Germ, miles St. Goar. RHINE (d). ST. GOAR. precipitous. The castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in appearance, and interest- ing from its history, rewards the trouble of the ascent by the view which it com- mands. Another very pleasing view is to be obtained from the summit of the heights above St. Goar, which rise immediately in face of the Lurleiberg. The spot is approached by a footpath, leading out of the high road to Bingen, 100 yds. before you come to the trumpeter’s grotto, by the side of the bed of a winter torrent; the way is not difficult to find. Another agreeable expedition is to the Miihlenthal, between Werlau and Karbach. The Protestant Ch., near the centre of the town, of pleasing architecture, stands over the crypt of the old Ch. of St. Goar (built 1465). In the Catholic Church of St. Goar is the rude image of that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, settled here to preach Christianity to the rude inhabitants, and who afterwards gave his name to the town. It is re- corded that once, to prove his sanctity, he hung up his cloak on a sun-beam, a miracle which was imitated by St. Elizabeth at Marburg, who hung her washing on a sun-beam to dry. His shrine, after his death, in 647, became a place of pilgrimage, and is still famed for working miracles, and his help is supposed to have rescued many a poor boatman who prayed to him from the perils of the Gewirr (a whirlpool in this part of the river), and the enchant- ments of the Nymph of the Lurlei. (rt.) The Nassau bank of the Rhine hereabouts also affords pleasant excur- sions and points of view. Boats are always ready at St. Goar, to transport visitors across the river to (rt.) Goarshausen (Inn, Nassauer Hof, comfortable, cheap, and good; the steamers will set you down here). Here mules may be hired to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai (Swiss Valley), traversed by a limpid stream descending in numberless small cascades between precipitous walls of rock, and turning many water-mills. At the en- trance of this valley, above the walled village of St. Goarshausen, rises the very286 r. 38.*—the Rhine (d). lurlei. oberwesel. Sect. IV.- picturesqne Castle of the Cat (a contrac- tion of Katzenelnbogen, Cat’s Elbow), the name of its original possessors. The view from it is not inferior to that from the left bank. Those who feel an ardour to climb still higher may reach the brow of the Lurlei, and gaze upon the Rhine from the brink o^ this lofty pre- cipice. Another agreeable excursion from Goarshausen will, occupy a morning. Ascend the Forstbach, or Schweitzer- thal, to the ruined Castle of Reichenbery, one of the most interesting in the vi- cinity of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined in 1302, but shortly after restored by Baldwin of Treves in an Asiatic style, traces of which may be observed in the gateway. It was destroyed by Tilly in the 30 years’ war. Return by the village of Patersberg, whence by tar the finest view of the Rheinfels is to be obtained. (rt.) A short way above St. Goar, but on the right bank, rises abruptly from the water’s edge the bare, black, and perpendicular precipice, called the Lurleiberg. (1.) At the side of the high road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a grotto occupied by a man whose em- ployment it is to awaken by pistol or bugle, for the gratification of travellers, the remarkable Echo of-the Lurlei, which is said to repeat sounds 15 times. The aspect of the Lurlei from this point is very grand. The German stu- dents amuse themselves by asking the echo, “ Who is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel?” Answer — “ Esel” (the German for Ass), a joke of which the burgomaster highly disapproves. There is a fishery of salmon in this part of the river. At the bend of the Rhine between St. Goar and the Lurleifelsen is the whirlpool (Wirbel) called the• Gewirr, and above it a rapid, called the Bank, formed by the stream dashing over a number of sunken rocks, increased by the sudden bend which the river here makes. . The passage of the large rafts which navigate the Rhine over this spot is difficult and dangerous : the forepart is often dragged 5 or 6 feet under the surface, the crews plunged up to their necks in water, and men have been washed overboard by the tumultuous waves dashing over the slippery plank. The perils of this spot, taken in con- nection with the mysterious echo, no doubt gave Birth to the superstition that the Lurlei' was haunted by a beauteous but wicked nymph, or Syren, who dis-^ tracted and beguiled the passing boat- man with her magical voice, only to overwhelm and drown him in the waves of the whirlpool. Above this, opposite the Castle of Rhineck, are the rocks called the 7 Sisters (see next page). (1.) Obebwesei,. — Inns : Rhein- ischer .Hof; — Trierischer Hof; — Im goldenen Pfropfenzieher (golden Cork- skrew — the sign painted by one of the Dusseldorf artists, Schrodter). Ober- wesel (the Vesalia of the Romans), a small town of 2300 inhab., one of the most charming spots on the Rhine, is highly picturesque from its lofty round tower ( Ochsenthurrn) at’the water-side, its many-turreted walls, and Gothic buildings. Among the latter is the Ch. of our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche), outside the towu at its upper end, one of the most highly decorated as well as tasteful examples of Gothic architecture upon the Rhine. It was consecrated in 1331. Its porches are richly sculptured; and the vaulting of the cloisters is sin- gular. The rood-loft (Lettner) is a rich specimen of Gothic. The choir is 80 ft. high. The altar-piece of carved wood, richly gilt, consisting of a series of niches, filled with figures of prophets, patriarchs, and saints, is of the same age as the church, and is the perfection of elegance and delicacy. In a side chapel are many monuments of the Schomberg family, bearing rudely- carved effigies of knights in armour, ladies in stomachers and rufts, and babies in swaddling clothes, like mum- mies, or the larva of insects. The older Ch. of St. Martin is also interesting from its" architecture. In it is a Deposition from the Cross by Liepenbeck. In some period of the dark ages, a boy named Werner is said to have been most impiously crucified and put to death by the Jews in this place. A similar story is told in many otherft. Prussia, r. 38.—the rhine parts of the world; even in England, at Gloucester, and Lincoln (vide Chau- cer.) It is probable that the whole was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext for persecuting the Jews, and extorting money from them. - A little Chapel, erected to the memory of this Werner, stands upon the walls of the town, close to the Rhine. (1.) Schonberg. This ruined castle on the rock was the cradle of an illus- trious family of the same name. The English Schombergs are a branch of it, and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal Schomberg, sprang from the same stock. It receives its name (Beautiful Hill), as the story goes, from 7 beau- teous daughters of the house, who by their charms turned the heads of half the young knights far and near; but were, at the same time, so hard-hearted that they would listen to the suits of none of them, and were therefore changed into 7 rocks, which are seen even to this day projecting out of the bed of the Rhine below Oberwesel, when the water is low. (rt.) Gutenfels, a ruined castle, above the town of Caub, traditionally (?) said to be named after a fair lady called Guda, who was beloved by Richard of Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, and bro- ther of our Henry III. In the 30 years’ war, Gustavus Adolphus directed an attack upon the Spaniards, posted on the opposite bank, from its battle- ments, but, after 6 days of unceasing hostilities, was unable to effect a pas- sage in the face, of the wary General Spinola. The .castle remained in habi- table condition down to 1807, when, owing to the expense of keeping it up, the roofs and wood-work were sold by auction, and the building converted into a ruin. (rt.) Caub (Inns, Nassauer Hof: — Griinewald) has slate quarries under- ground, and is principally remarkable as the spot where Bliicher’s army crossed the Rhine on New Year’s night, 1814. It was from the heights above that the view of the Rhine first burst upon the Prussians, and drew forth one simul- taneous and exulting cry of triumph. "To the Germans of every age this (d): GUTENFELS. PFALZ. 287 great river has been the object of an affection and reverence scarcely inferior to that with which an Egyptian con- templates the Nile, or the Indian his Ganges. When these brave bands, having achieved the rescue of their native soil, came in sight of this its ancient landmark, the burden of a hundred songs, they knelt, and shouted the Rhine ! the Rhine / as with the heart and voice of one man. They that were behind rushed on, hearing the cry, in expectation of another battle.” — 1. G. L. A toll is here paid by all vessels fta- vigating the Rhine, to the Duke of Nassau, the only chieftain remaining on the river who still exercises this feudal privilege. In the middle ages no less than 32 different tolls were es- tablished on the Rhine. In the middle of the river, opposite Caub, rises the quaint castle called the Pfalz, built by the Emperor Lewis the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a convenient toll-house; it now belongs to the Duke of Nassau. According to a popular tradition, it served, in former times, as a place of refuge and security whither the Countesses Palatine re- paired previous to their accouchements, which, were it true, would be a proof of the insecure life led: by princes as well as peasants in the turbulent times of the'middle ages. Such an occur- rence may have actually taken place in a single instance, but it is very un- likely that a rude toll-house should repeatedly have served as a princely abode. There. are dungeons under it below the level of the river, in which state-prisoners of rank were once con- fined. The castle is accessible by means of a ladder, and the only entrance is closed by a portcullis (Fallthur). The well which supplies it with water is filled from a source far deeper than the bed qf the Rhine. *(1.) Bacharach (Inn, Post) is en- circled by antique walls, and defended by 12 towers of strength in former days, of picturesque and ornamental appear- * If Germ, miles Bacharach.288 ROUTE 38. — THE RHINE (d). LORCH. Sect. IV. ance in the present. They are singular in their construction, having only 3 walls, the side towards the town being open, probably to prevent their com- manding the town in the event of an enemy gaining possession of them. The name, Bacharach, is only a slight al- teration of the words Bacclii ara, the altar of Bacchus; a name conferred upon a rock in the bed of the river, ad- joining the island a little below the town, usually covered with water, but in very dry seasons appearing above the surface. The sight of it is hailed with joy by the owner of the vineyard, who regards this as a sure sign of a fine vintage. As a proof of the goodness of the wine of this neighbourhood, we are told that Pope Pius II. (ASneas Silvius) used to import a tun of it to Rome every year; and that the city of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for 4 casks of it, which her citizens presented annually to the Empr. Wenzel. Down to the 16th cent. Bacharach was, jointly with Co- logne, the staple place for the wines of the Rhine. (1.) The truncated walls of the old castle of Stahleck, the ancient seat of the Electors Palatine, now the pro- perty of the Queen of Prussia, their de- scendant, crown the high hill behind Bacharach. Between them and the town stand the ruins of St. Werner’s Church, an exquisite fragment of the florid Gothic style, built of hard red sandstone in 1428. “ It was demolished by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ war, but still shows in its E. end a lantern, rising on a rock suspended over the river, like a fairy fabric, the remains of the highest and most elegant lancet style existing.” — Hope. The lofty pointed windows still retain in a per- fect condition the most delicate tracery work. The body of the child Werner having been thrown by the Jews, his mur- derers, into the Rhine at Oberwesel, instead of descending with the current, as all other bodies would have done, is reported to have ascended the stream as far as Bacharach, where it was taken up, interred, and afterwards canonized. To do honour to his relics, this beau- tiful chapel was-built over them. An hour or two should be devoted by every traveller to Bacharach, to enable him to enjoy the view from the castle of Stahleck, and to visit St. Werner’s chapel and St. Peter’s Ch., just below St. Werner’s, and close to the road. It was “ formerly a Templar Church, and one of the most curious, and perhaps the earliest example of mixed Round and Gothic style on the Rhine, resembling the churches of Lim- burg and Neuss. It deserves to be drawn in detail before it goes to utter ruin.”—F. S. (rt.) Nollingen, ruined castle; below it Lorchhausen village. Two stone gal- lows near this formerly marked the boundary line which divided the an- cient territory of Mainz from the Pa- latinate. (1.) The round Keep-tower and shattered walls of Furstenburg rise above the village of Rheindiebach. The castle was reduced to a ruin by the French in the war of the Orleans suc- cession, 1689. (rt.) Lorch (Inn, Schwann), is one of the oldest towns on the Rhine (Laureacum ?), snugly nestling in the mouth of the picturesque valley of the Wisper, whose entrance is guarded by the castles of Nollingen on the one side and Fursteneck on the other. It was anciently inhabited by a knot of noble (knightly) families, many of whose castellated mansions remain. Among them is the Burghaus of John Hilgen of Lorch, a contemporary of Franz of Sickengen, who fought against the Turks (date 1548). He is buried in the Church, a handsome edifice of the 12th cent, (with more recent addi- tions), containing an elaborate altar- piece of carved wood. Before the church stands a carved stone cross (date 1491). Here commences the district called the Rheingau (district of the Rhine), which extends upwards along the rt. bank as far as Walluf, and is remark- able as including all the most famous vineyards in which the best Rhenish wines are produced.289 Rhenish Prussia, route 38.-—the Rhine (d). lorch. 1. The ruins of the castle of Heim- burg appear above the top of the houses of Nieder Heimbach village, close on the shore. Higher up is the very pic- turesque turreted ruin of Sonneck; it was originally a robber-castle, and de- stroyed as such by the Emperor Ru- dolph, 1282. It is now restored. The river, on approaching Bingen and Assmanshausen, is truly “ the cas- tellated Rhine.” 1. The castle of Reichenstein or Falkenburg stands on the summit of a rocky height, and a little further up on the same bank is that of Rheinstein, perched upon a lower ridge. Beyond them, between the high road and the river, is the interesting Gothic Church of St. Cle- ment, admirably restored from a state of ruin by the Princess Frederick of Prussia. Most of these residences of knightly highwaymen fell before the strong arm of the law in 1282, having been condemned as robber strongholds. The forces of the League of the Rhine executed the sentence of the Diet of the Empire, by storming and demo- lishing them, and thus put an end to the arbitrary exactions and predatory warfare of their owners. The system of pillage which pre- vailed throughout Germany among the rulers of these almost inaccessible for- tresses until the vigorous opposition of the towns on the borders of the Rhine put an end to it, is well illustrated by the following anecdote. An archbishop of Cologne, having built a castle, ap- pointed a seneschal to the command of it. The governor, previous to entering upon his office, applied to the bishop to know how and whence he was to maintain himself, no revenue having been assigned to him for that purpose. The prelate, by way of answer, merely desired him to observe that his castle stood close to the junction of 4 roads. A practice very similar to the arbitrary mode of levying tolls and custom du- ties adopted by these feudal tyrants, prevailed up to the last century in our own country, in the black-mail exacted by the Highland chiefs and nobles from merchants on their way Jto and from the fairs or markets of the north. 1. The Cattle of Rheinstein, one of these ruins, has been restored as far as possible to its original condition, but only to serve the peaceful purpose of a summer residence for Prince Frederick of Prussia, cousin to the present king. The interior has been fitted up in imi- tation of a knightly dwelling of the days of chivalry; the walls hung with armour, the windows filled with painted glass, and the furniture either collected from ancient castles and convents, or made conformably to the fashions of former days. It is liberally shown to strangers, who are conducted round the castle by a domestic, who bears tlio ancient title of Schlossvoght. At the narrow pass below Rheinstein, which even now, after having been widened by French and Prussian engineers* leaves barely room for the road be- tween the rock and the river, there existed till very recent times a Jew's Toll, where certain fixed dues were levied upon all the Hebrews who passed. It is said that the contractors kept little dogs, who were trained to single out and seize the Jews from among the passing crowds! Wines and Vineyards of the Rhine. Opposite to Rheinstein is the village (rt.) of Assmanshausen, which has a warm mineral spring, and is about to be added to the number of the Brun- nen of Nassau by the construction of baths and hotels : it gives its name to a red wine of high reputation and price. The hills behind and around the ham- let which produce it are so very steep that it is only by artificial means, often by planting the vines in baskets, that any soil can be retained around their roots. The vineyards are nothing more than a succession of terraces, or steps, extending from the top to the bottom of the hills, some of which must be nearly 1000 ft. high. In some places more than 20 terraces may be counted, rising one above the other. They are supported by walls of masonry from 5 to 10 ft. high, and the breadth' of some of the ledges on which the vines grow is not more than twice the height of290 ROUTE 38.-—THE RHINE (d). RHINE WINES. Sect. IV. the walls. To’reach many of these nar- row plots, the vine-dressers, female as well as male, must scale the precipices, and hang as it were from the face of the rocks, while a great deal of the soil itself and every particle of manure must be carried up on their shoulders. This will give some idea of the la- bours and expense of such cultivation, and of the great value of every inch of ground in these narrow strips, to repay it. The life of the Rheinland vine- dresser indeed presents a rare example of industry and perseverance. Though by no means rich, they are generally the proprietors of the vineyards which they cultivate; and, though their ap- pearance does not altogether verify that which painters draw and poets describe, they at least exhibit an aspect of cheer- fulness and intelligence. Independently of the hardness of the labour of cultivating the vine, which is not confined to any one season, but must be carried on perseveringly through the whole year, and is most severe during the heat of summer, the vine is a delicate plant,—frost, rain, or hail may in a few hours annihilate the produce upon which the cultivator de- pends solely, for subsistence. One or two successive seasons of failure will ruin even an opulent family; but when the vintage is good, few of the small proprietors are rich enough to be able to wait until they can obtain a favour- able market, but must part with the wine soon after it is made to the rich speculators, who buy up the whole produce of a district, and take the chance of its turning out good or bad. Beyond the point on which Ass- manshausen stands, the Rhine, whose course has hitherto been from S.E. to N.W., changes materially its di- rection, and flows from E. to W., pursuing this direction from Mayence hither. From the advantageous exposure produced by this bend in the river arises the excellence of the wines of the district of the Rheingau, as the rays of the midday sun, instead of being received obliquely, fall full butt Upon the vineyards situated on the rt. bank of the river, and all the best wines are confined to that side. The slaty soil of the hills seems peculiarly fa-* vourable for retaining the intense heat of the sun’s rays, so necessary for bring- ing the grape to perfect maturity ; and, in addition, this favoured portion of the valley of the Rhine is sheltered from N. and E. winds to a great ex- tent, by the intervening barrier of mountains. The Rheingau is divided into the Upper and Lower Cantons (Gemnr- kung), relatively to the position of the vineyards near the summits of the hills, or on the margin of the river: the high grounds produce the strongest wine, while that of the low ground has an earthy taste; that which grows at a moderate height between the two ex- tremes is considered the most wholesome and the best; though much depends on the season, which is sometimes fa- vourable to the produce of the heights, sometimes to that of the inferior slopes. S Among the Rhine wines (impro- perly called Hock in England), the Johannisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on an equal footing, for their ex- quisite flavour and evanescent bouquet.’ Next follow Riidesheim (Berg) Marko- brunner and Rothenberg, which possess much body and aroma. Hochheim (which grows on the banks of the Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks with' the best of these second-class wines. Of the inferior wines, those of Erbach and Hattenheim are the best: The lighter wines, however, are apt to be hard and rather acid, as table wines: The Laubenheim and Nierstein, from the Palatinate above Mayence, and the delicately-flavoured Moselles, are much preferred to them as table wines in Germany. The best red Rhine wine is the Assmanshausen, produced • from vines originally brought from Bur- gundy. The vine chiefly cultivated on the Rhine is called Riesling; if yields a wine of fine flavour; the Or- leans grape produces a strong-bodied wine. .... The vintage on the Rhine used toRhenish Prussia, r. 38.—the rhine (d). bingen-loch. 294 take place in the middle of October; but, by the present system, it is de- layed, in the best vineyards, till No- vember : in fact, it is put off to the last moment the grapes will hang on the bunches. To make the best wines, the grapes are sorted, and those only of the best quality employed. The riper bunches are first selected, and the rest left to hang for days or weeks longer. The culture of the vine was intro- duced on the Rhine and Moselle by the Emperor Probus. The Rossel (rt.), a little tower stand- ing on the brink of the heights above Assmanshausen, and just discernible from the river below, is situated within the verge of the Forest of Niederwald, and commands one of the mbst mag- nificent views upon the whole course of the Rhine. Assmarfshausen is a good point from which to commence the ds^ cent of the Niederwald, though Bingen or Riidesheim, where the inns are bet- ter, should be made the head-quarters. We have now reached the upper limit of the gorge of the Rhine, com- mencing near Boppart, and affording so much grand scenery. Between Bin- gen and Boppart, the Rhine cuts across a chain of mountains running nearly at right angles to the course of its stream. There are good grounds for supposing that at one time (before hu- man record) this range entirely stopped its further progress, damming up the waters behind them into a lake which extended as far as Basle, and whose existence is further proved by numerous freshwater deposits, shells, &c., to be found in the valley of the Rhine, above Mayence. Some vast convulsions, such as an earthquake, or perhaps even the force of the accumulated waters alone, must have burst through this mountain- wall, and made for the river the gorge or ravine by which it now obtains a free passage to the ocean. A species of dyke or wall of rock, running obliquely across the river at this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this colossal barrier. It is passable for ves- sels only at one spot, where a channel called Bingen Loch (Hole of Bingen) has been cut through it by artificial means. The impediments occasioned by it in the navigation of the river have been reduced from time to time: but the greatest improvement was effected in 1830-32, by the Prussian govern- ment, under whose direction the passage has been widened from 20 to 210 feet, by blasting the sunken rocks in the bed of the Rhine. 1. In commemoration of this im- provement, a small monument has been set up by the road side; the pedestal of the obelisk is formed of the stones extracted from the bed of the river, rt. Tfiis navigable channel, 3 feet deep, lies near the rt. bank, under the shattered walls of the castle of Ehren- fels, an ancient stronghold of the Arch- bishops of Mayence, built in 1218,. to which they retired with their treasures in time of war and peril. It was stormed by Bernard of Saxe Weimar in the SO years’ war, but was destroyed by the French, 1689. Sometimes when the river is low in autumn, a strong team of horses stands ready on the rt. bank to assist in drag- ging the steamer up the rapid by the aid of a tow-rope. Near to the 1. bank, surrounded by the river, and not far from the spot where the waters of the NaRe unite with those of the Rhine, rises the little square Mouse Tower, renowned for The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. The summer and autumn had been so wet. That in winter the corn was growing yet,. ’T was a piteous sight to see all around, The grain lie rotting on the ground. Every day the starvlng.poor. Crowded around Bishop Hatto’s door, For he had a plentiful last year’s store ; And all the neighbourhood could tell His granaries were furnished well. At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day' To quiet the poor without delay : He bade them .to his great barn repair, ■ , And they should have food for the winter there. Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear, The poor folk flocked from far and near i The great barn was.full as it could hold Of women and children, and young and old.292 ROUTE 38____THE RHINE (d). BINGEN. Sect. IV. Then when he saw It could hold no more, Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; And while for mercy on Christ they call, He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all. “ I’falth ’tis an excellent bonfire ! ” quoth he, “ And the country is greatly oblig'd to me, . For ridding It, in these times forlorn. Of rats that only consume the corn.” So then to his palace returned he. And he sat down to supper merrily, And he slept that night like an innocent]man ; But Bishop Hatto never slept again. In the morning as he enter'd the hall Where his picture hung against the wall, A sweat like death all o’er him came, ts had eaten it out of the frame. For the rats As he look’d there came a man from his farm, 'He had a countenance white with alarm. “ My Lord, I open’d your granaries .this morn. And the rats had eaten all your corn.’*.. Another came running presently. And he was pale as pale could be : Fly ! my lord bishop, fly," quoth he, “ Ten thousand rats are coming this way ; The Lord forgive you for yesterday ! ” “ I’ll go to my tower on the Rhine,” replied he, “ ’Ti* the safest place in Germany; The walls are high and the shores are stei And the stream is strong, and the deep ! eep, wate Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten’d away. And he cross’d the Rhine without delay, _______ And reach’d his tower, and barr’d with care . All the windows, doors, and loop-holes there. He laid him down, and clos'd his eyes; But soon a scream made him arise, He started, and saw two eyes of flame On his pillow, from whence the screaming came. He listen’d and look'd: it was only the cat: But the bishop he grew more fearful for that, For she sat screaming, mad with fear At the army of rats that were drawing near. For they have swam over the river so deep, And they have climb’d the shores so steep, And now by thousands up they crawl To the holes and windows in the wall. Down on his knees the bishop fell, And faster and faster his beads did he tell, As louder and louder drawiug near, The saw of their teeth without lie could hear. And in at the windows, and in at the door, And through the walls by thousands they And down through the ceiling and up through the floor. From the right and the left, from behind and before, From within and without, from above and below; And all at once to the bishop they go. They have whetted their teeth against the stones. And now they pick the bishop’s bones ; They gnaw’d the flesh from every limb. For they were sent to do judgment on him. Southey. Having given the romantic tradition, it is proper to add the prosaic history of the little tower. It appears to have been built in the-13th cent, by a Bishop Siegfried (full 200 years after the death of Bishop Hatto), along with the oppo- site castle of Ehrenfels, as a watch- tower and toll-house for collecting the duties upon all goods which passed the spot. The word marts is probably only an older form of mauth, duty or toll: and this name, together with the very un- popular object for which the tower was erected, perhaps gave rise to the do- lorous story of Bishop Hatto and the rats. Bp. Hatto (originally Abbot of Fulda), was one of the wisest statesmen of his time, and the constant friend and ’councillor of the Empr. Otho the Great; he died 970. 1. The confluence of the Nahe and the Rhine. — Tacitus mentions tha bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the existing structure, erected 1011, and many times renewed, perhaps rests on Roman foundations. The Nahe di- vides the territory of Prussia from that of Hesse-Darmstadt. The pedestrian may save at least a mile by crossing the Nahe by the ferry, instead of going round by the bridge. 2. 1. Bingen. — Inns: Victoria, close to the Rhine, good and reason- able ;r— Post, not so well situated, but good in other respects; — Weisse Ross (White Horse),’ facing the river ; old Rhine-wine in the cellar. The very- interesting scenery in this neighbour- hood is entirely lost to those who merely pass up and down the river in a steam-boat. Bingen has .5000 inhab., and con- siderable trade in wine. It was raised to great prosperity in the 14th cent, by certain Italian families of merchants, from Asti: the Ottini, Montesia, Brog-* lio, Pomaris,&c., who settled here. In the town itself there is not much to be seen. The ruin called Klopp, or Drusus' Castle, above it, though not293 if. Prussia. , boute 38.—the rhine (d). niederwald. itself Roman, probably, occupies the site of one of the forts built by Drusus. The ruins, now enclosed within a pri- vate garden, command a very inte- resting view. From Bingen the traveller may ex- plore the Rochusberg, Rheinstein, and the Niederwald, in one day. A very pleasant excursion may be made up the Nahe to Kreuznacli and Oberstein (Rte. 100.) Eilwagen and omnibus (12 S. gr.) to Kreuznacli twice a day a coach thither and back, with 2 horses, costs 7 fl. ; 5 fl. with 1. 1. The white Chapel of St. RocK ( Rochus Capelle), occupies the summit of the hill above Bingen, opposite Rudesheim. The ascent to it takes half an hour — it may be made in a light carriage. The terrace behind the chapel almost overhangs the Rhine and commands a prospect not only up, but down the liver. The 16th of August is St. Roch’s day, when many thousand pilgrims assemble from'all parts to pay their vows, and offer their prayers to the saint, who is regarded as the averter of plague and pestilence. Goethe has written a very pleasing description of One of these festivals. He presented to the Chapel the altar-piece which deco- rates its interior. Instead of descending by the same road, it is well worth while to take the foot-path leading round the back of the hill to a knoli called the Scharlachkopf, which commands an entirely different view — of the valley and windings of the lovely Nahe; the horizon is bounded by the Hundsriick mountains and the Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg), while immediately under the spectator lie the bridge and town of Bingen. 'The slopes at the back of the hill have nearly the same exposure as the vine- yards of the Rheingau, and prodiice a wine, the Scliarlachberger, not much inferior to them. 1 \ hour will suffice for this walk, which, instead of a single view, presents a complete panorama of the surrounding country'. The favourite excursion, however, from Bingen is to the heights above Rudesheim and Assmanshausen, called the Niederwald, which may be made in 3 or 4 hours, but which well deserves to have half a day devoted to it. The following plan of the excursion, having been already tried, may be considered worth adopting by others. Take a boat from Bingen, and de- scend the Rhine in 20 minutes to the castle of Rheinstein (p. 289.). If you go on foot you will save a mile, by crossing the Nahe at the ferry under the church, instead of going round by the stone bridge. After seeing the castle, cross the Rhine to Assmans- hausen. This wine-producing village supports a troop of donkeys for the express purpose of transporting visitors to the top of the heights of the Nieder- wald. The charge for a donkey to Rudesheim is I d. 15 kr. Those who prefer walking may experience some difficulty in finding their way among the numerous paths through th$ woods, without a guide. After ascending the gully behind the village for about a mile, as far up as the vine grows, a path will be found to the right, which leads to the Jagd- Schloss, hunting seat of the Count Bassenheim, the proprietor of the Niederwald, where refreshments may be had. This may be reached in $ hr. from Assmanshausen; ten minutes more will bring you to the Bezauberte Hohle. (magic cave). Within the space of a. few feet, 3 vistas, cut through the trees, disclose 3 beautiful landscapes of the Rhine, each different from the other; and having all the effect of a diorama. . At no great distance from the cave is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched on the very verge of the precipice, which at a great height overlooks the black pools and turbulent eddies of the Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels appears half way down, hanging as it were to the face of the rOck. The view is not surpassed by any in the whole course of the Rhine. From this point the path again dives into the wood, and at the end of about a mile emerges at rt. The Temple, a circular building supported on pillars, planted on the brow of the hill, which commands another and quite different prospect, o 3294 route 38.—the Rhine (d). rudesheim. Sect. IV. extending up the Rhine and across to the hills of the Bergstrasse and Oden* Wald. The author of Pelham calls this “ one of the noblest landscapes on earth.” The agreeable shade of the beech and oak trees composing the forest of the Niederwald completely exclu des the sun, and renders this excursion doubly pleasant in summer time. To descend to Rudesheim from the Temple will not take more than half an hour by the path leading through the vineyards which produce the fa- mous Rudesheim wine. Late in the autumn, when the grapes begin to ripen, the direct path is closed up, and a slight detour of an additional quarter of an hour must be made. ' rt. Rudesheim. Inns, Darmstadter Hof; Krone ;—Rheinstein. The excursion to the Niederwald, which is not more than a mile distant, may be made from hence quite as well as from Assmanshausen. The traveller will generally find donkeys or mules ready saddled to convey him. Paths strike off from the Temple rt. to the Jagd Schloss, and 1. to the Rossel. At the upper end of the town rises a picturesque round tower, and at the lower extremity, close to the water’s edge, stands the Bromserburg, a singu- lar massive quadrangular castle of the year 1100, consisting of 3 vaulted stories, supported on walls varying be- tween 8 and 14 fit. in thickness. Though a .ruin, it is carefully preserved from further decay, and several rooms have been neatly fitted up in it by its present owner, Count Ingelheim. The tall tower, in the shape of an obelisk, ad- joining it, is called Boosenburg. Ano- ther castle, the Bromserhof, higher up, was the family residence of the knightly race of Bromser, long since extinct. “ Tradition says that one of these knights, Bromser of Rudesheim, on repairing to Palestine, signalised him- self by destroying a dragon, which was the terror of the Christian army. No sooner had he accomplished it, than he was taken prisoner by the Saracens; and while languishing in captivity, he qiade a vow, that if ever he returned to his castle of Rudesheim, he would de- vote his only daughter Gisela to the church. He arrived at length, a pil- grim, at his castle, and was met hy his daughter, now grown into a lovely woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved by, a young knight from a neighbouring castle — and she heard with consterna- tion her father’s vow. Her tears and entreaties could not change his pur- pose. He threatened her with his curse if she did not obey : and, in the midst of a violent storm, she precipi- tated herself from the tower of the castle into the Rhine below. A fisher- man found her corpse the next day in the river by the tower of Hatto : and the boatmen and vintagers at this day fancy they sometimes see the pale form of Gisela hovering about the ruined tower, and hear her voice mingling its lamentations with the mournful whistlings of the wind.”—Autumn near the Rhine. The Bromserhof is now turned into common dwelling-houses, and the anti- quities it contained are partly removed to Johannisberg. They consisted of old furniture, family pictures, &c., together with the chain which bound the knight Johann Bromser while a prisoner in Palestine. The best quality of the famed Riides- heim Witte grows upon the terraces overhanging the Rhine, close to Ehren- fels. There is a tradition that Char- lemagne, remarking from his residence at Ingelheim that the snow disappeared sooner from these heights than else- where, and perceiving how favourable such a situation would prove for vine- yards, ordered vines to be brought hither from Burgundy and Orleans. The grapes are still called Orleans. Close behind the houses of Rudesheim grovPs a very good wine, | called from the position of the vineyard Hinter- hauser. There is a ferry over the Rhine be- tween Kempten and Rudesheim; car- riages may be hired here to proceed on to Mainz or Wiesbaden, as well as job- horses : there are no post-horses be- tween Riideslieim and Mayence on the right bank of the Rhine. DiligencesB. Prussia, k. 38.—tRhine (d). geisenheim. johannisberg. 291 daily from Riidesheim to Wiesbaden. A Railway is projected. ASCENT OF THE RHINE, CONTINUED. , The shortest road, which is also the post road, from Bingen to Mayence is by Ingelheim (Route 98.), keeping on the left side of the Rhine. Those who wish to visit the Brunnen of Nassau on their way, cross over by the ferry above Bingen to Riidesheim, and take the more interesting road along the rt. bank of the Rhine. They should stop at Riidesheim to see the Niedetwald (if they have not visited it before); at Johannisberg to see the chateau and vineyard; at Hattenheim (where they may dine) to see the old convent of Eberbach, 2 m. out of the road; and they had better stipulate with the driver, before setting out, to make these baits. If they are bound to Schlangenbad (Route 95.), they may turn to the left, away from the Rhine, at Walluf; if they are going to Wies- baden they proceed on to Bieberich before they quit it; and if they wish to reach Cassel and Mayence they con- tinue by its side. The distance from Riidesheim to Cassel (opposite Mayence) is about 14 m. There is a schnellpost daily to Wiesbaden, but no post horses. Above the Niederwald and the Rochusberg the mountains subside into gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of Taunus recede to a distance from the river. Although the succeeding dis- trict appears tame in comparison with that already passed, when viewed from the river, yet when seen from any of the heights which command the Rhein- gau, it will be found to possess beau- ties of a softer kind, combined with a richness and cheerfulness which are well calculated to draw forth admira- tion. (rt.) Geisenheim (Inns: SchoneAus- sicht; Stadt Frankfurt), a town of 2400 inhab., distinguished by the twin gothic towers (b. 1839) of its old Church — in which is a monument to the Elector John Philip von Schon- born, 1675. There is another famous vineyard near this, upon the hill called the Rothenberg, which is much frer quented on account of its fine view. The country seat of Baron Zwietlein contains a fine collection of stained glass from the commencement of the art to the present time. rt. The very conspicuous white mansion on the heights, at some little distance from the river, is the Chateau of Johannisberg, the property of Prince Metternich, standing in the midst of the vineyards which produce the most famous of the Rhine wines. The house, built 1716, though seldom in- habited, has been enlarged by its pre- sent owner ; it is not remarkable, but the view from the bow-window . and terrace is very fine. In the Schloss- kirche is a marble monument to P. Metternich’s tutor, Nic. Vogt. It is difficult to obtain admittance to the cellars. The first owners of the vine- yard of Johannisberg were the monks; it was originally attached to the abbey and convent of St. John, afterwards secularised. It is still known by the name of Bischofsberg. In the begin- ning of the present cent, it belonged to the Prince of Orange; but before it had been in his possession three years, Napoleon made over the vineyard as a gift to Marshal Kellermann. At the close of the war it again changed hands, and in 1816 was presented by the Emperor of Austria to Prince Metter- nich, who holds it as an imperial fief. The best wine grows close under the castle, and indeed partly over the cel- lars. The species of vine cultivated here is the Riesling. The management of it at all seasons requires the most careful attention. The grapes are al- lowed to remain on the vines as long as they can hold together, and the vintage, usually begins a fortnight later than any where else. The vine-grower is not satisfied with ripeness, the grape must verge to rottenness before it suits its purpose; and although much is lost in quantity by this delay in gathering, it is considered that the wine gains there- by in strength and body. So precious are the grapes, that those which fall296 route 38.—the Rhine (d). erbach. Sect. IV. are picked off the ground with a kind of fork made for the purpose. The extent of the vineyard is about 70 acres, and it is divided into small compartments, the produce of each of whicli is put into separate casks : even in. the best years there is considerable difference in the value of different casks. Its produce amounts in good years to about 40 butts (called stiicks), each of 7^ ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 fl. A cask of 1350 bottles basbeen valued as high as 2200 florins : the highest price ever paid was 18,000 fl. for 1350 bottles, or rather more than £l 2s. a-bottle. The purchasers were, in moieties, George the 4th and The king of Prussia. The wine is depo- sited in the cellars of the chateau in cask, but always delivered in bottle, With the prince’s signet. In bad years, the juice of the grape never goes into the cellars at all, but is forthwith sold off for what it may fetch. The Rhine here attains its greatest breadth, 2000 ft., spreading itself out to about double the width which it has below Riideshcim; at Cologne it is only 1300 ft. broad ; and at Wesel only 1500 ft. In the middle of its channel are numerous small islands extending ill the way up to Mayence. rt. Winkel (Vini Celia, so called because Charlemagne’s wine-cellar was situated here), and Ostrich, 2 unim- portant villages, marked by the twin spires of open-work. At Mittelheim, near Winkel, is a curious church, date 1140, with a nave and 2 aisles all under one roof, and with a portal built of white and grey stone, in a mixed style of Moorish and middle-Italian. rt. Count Schonhorn’s chateau, Reichdrtshausen, at the lower end of the village of Hattenheim (1000 inhah.), contains an interesting collection of paintings, chiefly modern; among them are a capital work of our own Wilkie, called Guess my name;” a Holy Family, by Overbeck, in the chapel; Telemachus and Eucharis, by David; the dying robbers, by L. Robert; Italian Peasants, P. Hess; Raphael and the Fornarina, Picot, &c. A little higher up the river, upon the hill of Strahlen- berg, grows the famous Markobrunner wine, so named from a small spring or fountain close to the high road, which here runs on the borders of the river. The nobles of the Rheingau, once so numerous, rich, and powerful,are greatly diminished in number and wealth ; the chief of those ancient families still re- siding on its banks are the Counts Bas- senheim, Ingelheiin, and Schonborii; these, with Prince Metternich and the Duke of Nassau, possess the best vine- yards on the Rhine. (rt.) Erbach. — /«»,Traube; a small village. An excursion mAy be made either from Hattenheim (2j m.), or from Erbach, to the Cistercian Convent of Eberbach, once the most considerable monastic establishment on the Rhine. It is prettily situated at the foot of the hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur- rounded by woods, which, sweeping down the slopes, spread themselves like a mantle around it. It was founded by St. Bernard de Clairvaux in 1131. It is now the property of the Duke of Nassau, and is converted into a prison and asylum for maniacs, for which it ii well calculated by its vast extent. These establishments are exceedingly well managed, but they are not readily shown to strangers. More accessible and interesting to those who take plea- sure in architecture are the Churches, very pure specimens of the Romanesque style, derived doubtless from Cologne. The oldest of these, a small building, supported by 2 rows of slender columns, is probably part of the first founidation of St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now occupied by wine-presses, and some of the best Rhine wines are made in it. The larger Church, a spacious edifice, was built 1186: it is of severe archi- tecture. There are many curious monu- ments, especially of the Katzenellen- bogen, and von Stein (de Lapide); one of a knight “ amicus fidelis hujus monast” MCCC.; also of Abbots and Archbishops of Mayence, Gerlacli (1371), and Adolph II. vort Nassau (1474). The long dormitory, in the Pointed Gothic of the 14th cent.R. Prussia, r. 38___the Rhine (d). Steinberg, elfeld. 297 imposed on Round work, and the Chapter-house of the 15th, also merit notice. The vaults under these buildings are used by the Duke of Nassau as cellars, to contain what he calls his Cabinet of Wines, comprising a collection of the Choicest productions of the vineyards of the Rheingau. The celebrated Steinberg vineyard, once the property of the monks of Eberbach, now of the Duke of Nassau, lies upon the slope of the hill, close to the convent. The wine produced from it is esteemed quite as much as Johan- nisberg; and the culture of it is man- aged with even greater care and cost than that vineyard. It consists of about 100 valuable acres enclosed with- in a ring fence; the high wall is passed in going to Hattenheim or Erbach. In the spring of 1836 half of the finest wines in the Duke’s cellars were sold by public auction. The cask which was considered the best, the flower, or, as the Germans call it, the Bride (Braut) of the cellar, being cabinet Steinberger of 1822, was purchased for the enormous sum of 6100 fl. = about 500/., by Prince Emile of Hesse. It contained 3£ ohms, about 600 bottles; and the price was therefore equivalent to 16s. 4d. a bottle. From the Moss-house on the Boss, a neighbouring height, a view is obtained which the author of the Bubbles calls “ the finest he had witnessed in this country.” 1. In the distance, on the top of the hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with Eltville, may be discerned Ingel- lreim, the favourite residence of Charle- magne, now a poor village. (Rte. 98.) Charlemagne used to resort to the low islands in the middle of the Rhine from Ingelheim to fish. His unfor- tunate son Lewis, pursued by his own impious sons, ended his days (840) on one of them (the Sandau, opposite Hattenheim), a fugitive. rt. The large building between Erbach and Elfeld is the Draiser Hof, once an appendage to the convent of Eberbach. rt. Elfeld or Eltville (Alta villa) — Inns: Hirsch (Stag);—Engel;—is the only town of the Rheingau; it lias. 2000 inhab.; is conspicuous from its situation, and picturesque from its Gothic towers. The lofty watch-tower surmounted by 4 turrets, at the upper end of the town, is part of the castle built in the 14th century. Here Gun-, ther of Schwarzburg, besieged by his: rival Charles IV., resigned the crown/ 1349, and died, probably of poison. Around the town are many handsome villas and country seats of the German noblesse. In that of Graf von Elz are some good pictures,—a fine Domeni* chino, Susanna in the Bath. In the pretty valley behind Eltville lies the village of Kidrich, with a beautiful Gothic chapel of St. Michael, built 1440, conspicuous for its turret open-work. In the Ch. is curious woodwork, and ori- ginal galleries coeval with the building. The tower of Scharfenstein, once the residence of the bishops of Mayence, rises above Kidrich. The Grdfenberg wine is produced here. Schlangenbad is reached from this by a bridle-path through the woods, 6 m. long. rt. Nieder-Walluf: at the end of the Walldaffthal, about 4 m. N. W.» lies Rauenthal, famous for its wine. rt. Schierstein is a village with more than 1300 inhab. The Picture Gallery of M. Hubei contains many works by the old masters. Here ends, the Rheingau, “ the Bacchanalian Paradise,” which, bounded by the Taunus hills on one side, and by the Rhine on the other, extends along the right bank of the river as far down ag Lorch. It was given to the Arch- bishops of Mainz by a Carlovingian king, and was protected by a wall and ditch, some portion of which may still be seen near Biberich. A road turns off here to Schlangenbad, 8 m. (Rte. 95.) rt. About 4 m. behind Schierstein is the village of Frauenstein, with a ruined castle, and an enormous lime, tree. rt. Biberich (Inns; H. Bellevue; Rheinischer Hof), the Chateau of the Duke of Nassau, a red building, with o 5298 ROUTE 38i—THE RHINE projecting bow in the centre, is one -of the handsomest palaces on the Rhine ; the interior is remarkable only for the splendour and taste with which it is fitted up, and for the exquisite prospects up and down the Rhine. The gardens behind are very pretty, and are liberally thrown open to the public. They are famous for their white and red chesnuts, and near the gate is an aged white willow of great size. In the miniature castle of Mosbacb, within their circuit, a number of Roman antiquities are preserved. Biberich stands on the limits of the Duchy of Nassau. Above this, the rt. as well as the 1. bank of the Rhine be- longs to Hesse-Darmstadt. The Rail- wag from Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by Castel passes by Biberich, where there is a station. Passengers bound for Frankfurt or Wiesbaden may disembark here, and take the train to Wiesbaden in 10 minutes, and to Frankfurt in 1 j hr., saving thereby £ an hour’s detour and detention at Mayence. The train ib drawn by horses along a short branch from Biberich to the main line. R. 95. The red towers of Mayence (1.) now Appear in sight, surrounded by fortifi- cations, connected by a bridge of boats over the Rhine, with rt. The fortified suburb of Castel; (Bahrdt’s Inn, large and good, close to the Rly.), which forms the tete du pont. 1. Men’tz (Fr. Mayence; Germ. Mainz). — Inns : Rheinischer Hof, best; — Europaiscber Hof; — Hessis- cher Hot good and quiet; — Holliind- ischer Hof, good; —H. d’Angleterre* pretty good ; all .on the Quay close to the Rhine, but separated from it by a wall; —Drey Reichs-Kronen (Three Crowns);—at Castel, on the rt. bank of.the Rhine, near the Railway Station, Bahrdt’s Hotel. The landing-places of the steamers of the Upper and Lower Rhine are nearly a mile apart from each other. Porterage is very exorbi- tant. Florins and kreutzers here come into use (Sect. VIII.); but Prussian dollars are also current. Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Romans, belongs to the Grand Duke (d). mayence pom. Sect. IV.. of Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most considerable and important town in his dominions; but, as the chief and strong- est fortress of the German Confedera- tion, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austrian troops in nearly equal num- bers, and is commanded by a governor elected alternately from either nation for a period of five years. It lies on the left bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite the junction of the Main; it has 36,600 inliab., and 8000 men gar- rison. Upon the Quai, where the steamer stops, are 3 large red buildings ; — the Kurfurstliclie Schloss, or ancient Palace of the Electors of Mayence, now con- verted into a Museum. The Grossher- zogliche Schloss, originally Deutsches Haus (Teutonic House); it served as a residence for Napoleon, and has now become the Palace of the Governor of the fortress and the Arsenal. The most remarkable objects in Mainz are—the Cathedral, a. vast build- ing of red sandstone, blocked up on all sides but the E. by mean houses, less interesting for any beauty of architec- ture (as it is built in the massive, round-arched style) than for its great antiquity, having been begun in the 10th, and finished in the 11th cent.; but the date of the oldest parts now remaining, viz. the E. choir, transept and nave, may be referred to the period intervening between 978 and 1137. The building, however, has suffered so much .at different times from conflagra- tions, from the Prussian bombardment of 1793, and afterwards (1813) from having been converted into a barrack and magazine by the French, that the only portion of the original structure remaining in a tolerably perfect state is that behind the altar at the E. eud (978—1009). The octagonal tower (Pfarrthurm) at the E. end has been surmounted with a cupola of cast-iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. This church, as well as those of Worms, Treves, and Spire, has a double cliois and high altars both at the E. and W. ends, and 2 transepts. The western choir dates from 1200—1239: the side chapels on the N. side were added 1291:299 Rhen. Prus. route 38.—the rhihe. mentz. those on the S. 1332. The cloister 1397—1412. The most beautiful of them, that of All. Saints, containing a very fine window, was built 1317. The double chapel of St. Gothard, ad- joining the N. W. transept, is a parti- cularly interesting specimen of Gothic, on account of the period at which it was built (1136). It is therefore to be re- gretted that, for the sake of a few paltry dollars’ rent, it should be let as a leather warehouse. The interior of the cathedral is filled with Monuments of Episcopal Electors of Mainz; the greater num- ber, placed upright against the piers and walls, are interesting illustrations of the progress and decay of the tem- poral power of the German church. The Archbishops of Mainz had the right of placing the crown an the head of the German Emperors, and are sometimes represented on their tombs in that act. That of Archbishop Peter von Asfeldt (1305—1320) bears, in addition to his own effigy rudely carved, those of the Emperors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, and John King of Bohemia,—all of whom he had crowued: but while his figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs are only half the size, and appear like children beside him. The Egyptians in their sculpture resorted to the same method of giving importance to their chief personages, and Sesostris appears a giant among pigmies. The monuments best worth notice in point of art are the following, exe- cuted at the end of the 15th or begin- ning of the 16th cent.: Prince Albert of Saxony, 1484 ; . Canon Bernhard von Breidenbach, 1497, executed with great truth of expression and most delicate finish; Archb. Berthold von Henneberg (1504), still more pure in style; Archb. J^cob of Liebenstein (1508), and Uriel von Gemmingen. Among those of later date we may mention that of Baron Dalberg(1606), the oldest Baron in Germany. Three other monuments deserve mention on account of the persons whose memories they record. One is that of Fastrada, 3rd wife of Charlemagne (794), by the side of the Beautiful Doorway leading into the cloisters, lately restored. She was not buried here, but in a church now destroyed, from which the monu- ment was removed. Another is the tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger Frauenlob, “ Praise the Ladies,” so called from the complimentary charac- ter of his verse. His real name was Henrich von Meissen. He was a canon of Mainz cathedral, and so great a favourite of the fair sex, that his bier was supported to the grave by 8 ladies, who poured over it libations of wine at the same time that they bathed it with their tears. His monument, a plain red tombstone, stands against the wall of the cloisters. It bears his portrait in low relief, copied (1783) from the original, which was destroyed by the carelessness of some workmen. A more worthy monument from Schwanthaler's chisel was erected in 1843 to the “ Ladies* Minstrel ” by the ladies of Mayence. On the 1. side of the nave is a red sandstone monument, erected 1357, to St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, and first Archbishop of Mayence. He was an Englishman, named Winfried, born at Crediton in Devonshire, of noble and wealthy parents; and became a monk in the Benedictine Abbey of Nutsall, near Winchester, in which, in the begin- ning of the 8th cent., he taught poe- try, history, rhetoric, and the Holy Scriptures. He left his country with 11 other monks, to preach the gospel to the barbarous nations of Germany; in the course of his mission he converted more than 100,000 heathens; his mis- sionary labours, interrupted only by 3 short visits to Rome, lasted more than 30 years, and extended from the Elbe to the Rhine, and from the Alps to the ocean. He was created a bishop, but without a diocese, by Pope Gregory II. Archbp. and Primate of all Ger- many by Gregory III. And by Pope Zachary, Archbp. of Mentz, then first constituted the metropolis of the Ger- man churches. The attention of travellers should also be directed to the pulpit, a modern restoration; the figures of the apostles are copied from those by Peter Vischer300 route 38.—the Rhine (d). mayence. museum. Sect. IV* at Niirnberg. An ancient font of lead, formerly gilt (1328), behind the eastern altar, and the brazen doors opening into the Market-place (called Speise Markt), On the N. side of the cathedral, also deserve notice; they were brought from the ruined Liebfrauenkirche, and are as old as the 10th century. In 1133 Bishop Adalbert I. caused to be en- graved on the upper valves of the doors an edict, by which he conferred various important privileges upon the town, in consideration of the aid which the citizens, his subjects, had afforded him, in rescuing him out of the hands of the emperor. They procured his release from prison by seizing on the person of the emperor, and detaining him as a hostage until their own sovereign was delivered up. In the Sacristy are preserved two very ancient chalices, probably of the 10th century; one, the gift of Arch- bishop Willigis, is a curious sample of Byzantine art. The Elector of Mayence, who was also Archbishop, was premier prince in the German empire; he presided at Diets, and at the Election of Emperor, where he exercised very powerful in- fluence; so that one Primate, Werner, on proposing a candidate, is reported to have added, “ I have others in my pocket.” His dominions comprehended 146 German square miles, with a population of 400,000 souls, and a re- venue of million of florins. He maintained a body-guard of 2000 men, and a Squadron of hussars. The canons of the Cathedral, sup- ported by its enormous revenues, lived a jovial life, as may be gathered from the answer they returned to the Pope, who had reproved them for their worldly and luxurious habits: “We have more wine than is needed for the -mass, and not enough to turn our mills with.” St. Stephen's Ch. (in the S.W. part of the town), built 1317, has a nave and 2 aisles of nearly equal height: the cloister is of the 15th cent. It con- tains some old paintingson gold grounds and numerous monuments. Museum, in the ancient Kurfurstliclie Schioss (about the middle of the long street called Die grosse Bleiche in the N. part of the town). The collections consist of, 1., Paintings, of no great excellence. The best works are, 1. Christ and the Four Penitents, Davidr the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, by Otto Vennivs i 2. a Carmelite Monk receiving the dress of his order from the Virgin, A. Caracci; 3. St. Francis receiving the Stigmata (five wounds), Guercino; 16. Virgin and Child, Lorenzo da Credi, the gem of the Collection; 17. St. Apollonia, Domenichino; 18, St. An- drew and St. Ursula, by Lucas van Leyden, or some old German master, and 20—28. The Life of the Virgin, by M. Griineioald, are curious: also Adam and Eve by Albert Durer, but so much injured and painted over as to show few traces of the master. 2. Antiquities, curious, because for the most part found in the neighbourhood, such as Roman altars, votive tablets* and inscriptions, in which the names of the legions stationed on this spot are commemorated. There are also several capitals of columns from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, in the style of Roman architecture; being in fact the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy: some fragments of sculpture from the venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down without cause in 1805; and a model of the double stone bridge which Napoleon proposed to throw over the Rhine here. The Town library is a very respectable collection, where are preserved some interesting specimens of the earliest printing. The Theatre is a handsome building designed by Mollcr, after the classical model of the theatres of the ancients, in which the outer form bears some re- lation to the interior. The Public Gardens (die Neue An- lage) outside the fortifications, on the S„ beyond the Neue Thor, and nearly opposite the mouth of the Main, are highly deserving of a visit, on account of the beautiful view they command of the junction of the Main and Rhine, of the town of Mayence, the Rheingau, and the distant range of the Taunus.Rhen. Prus, route 38.—The RUiNe (d). mayence. 301 They occupy the site of the suburban Palace of the Electors called the Fa- vourite. To add to the attractions of this charming spot, the excellent mili- tary bands of the Austrian and Prussian regiments play here once a-week, Fri- day, between 4 and 8 p.m. There is a cafe at one extremity of the garden, forming the favourite evening resort .of the inhabitants in summer. Another good view may be had from the top of the Tower of Drusus, an ancient Roman structure, believed by some to be the tomb of Drusus, son- in-law of Augustus, the founder of Mayence, whose body was brought hither after his death. From mutila- tion or decay, its base is now reduced to smaller dimensions than the upper part, which may have produced in it a fanciful resemblance to an acorn, and perhaps have given rise to the name, Eichelstein, acorn, by which it is vul- garly known. All the external and well-fitted masonry has long since been stripped off, and the passage for the staircase leading to the top was drilled through the solid mass in 1689. It Stands within the citadel, but is readily shown by one of the soldiers. Excava- tions made in forming new fortifications have laid bare the foundations of the original Roman Castellum Mogunlianum of Drusus, and show that it- was an oblong square, with -flanking towers, planted On the eminence overlooking the confluence of the Main. The music of the Austrian and Prussian military bands, which may be heard on parade almost every day in the week during summer, is remarkably good. Mayence has been from very early times a frontier fortress. It owes its existence to the camp which Drusus pitched here, which he immediately afterwards converted into a permanent bulwark against the Germans. It Soon became the most important of that chain of fortresses which he built along the Rhine, and which were the germs of most of the large towns now existing on that river. Though reduced from its former wealth and splendour by the fortunes of war, and still showing, in its irregular streets and shattered and truncated buildings, the effects of sieges and bombardments, it ought not to be regarded merely as a dull garrison town. Europe is indebted to this city for two things which have had thd greatest influence in effecting human improvement:— The liberation of trade from the exactions of the feudal aristo- cracy, and the Printing Press. It was a citizen of Mayence, named Walpol- den, who first suggested the plan of freeing commerce from the oppression of the knightly highwaymen, with whose strongholds the whole Continent was overspread at the beginning of the 13th century, by a confederation of cities which led to the formation of the Rhenish, and afterwards of the more famous Hanseatic League. This same Walpolden deserves to be held in grate- ful remembrance by every Rhine tourist; since many of flie ruined castles which line its banks were reduced to their present picturesque condition at his instigation, and under the ener- getic rule of the Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg, as being the haunts and strongholds of tyranny and rapine. Mainz was the cradle of the art of Printing, and the birth-place and re- sidence of John Gensfleisch, called Gutemberg, the discoverer or inventor of moveable types. In 1837 a bronze statue of Gutemberg, modelled by Thor- waldsen, a Dane, and cast at Paris by a Frenchman, was erected in the oped space opposite the Theatre. The ex- penses (26,000 fl.) were defrayed by subscriptions from all parts of Europe. Gutemberg’s house no longer exists} but upon its site stands the Civil Casino, a club or reading-room at the end of the Schuster Gasse, the members of which have erected a small statue of him. Gensfleisch (literally, goose-flesh) was born between 1393 and 1400, in the corner house between the Emmeran St. and the Pfandhaus St., which still exists, and his first printing-office, from 1443 to 1450, is the house called Hof zum Jungen, or Farberhof. He was buried in the church of St. Francis, now pulled down: it stood opposite t6 the Hof zum Humbrecht, and the new302 ROUTE 39.—THE AHR YAXLEY. ALTENAHR.. SfiCt. IV. houses of the Schuster Gasse now occupy its site. Th% English Church service is per- formed every Sunday by a clergyman licensed by the Bishop of London, in the Lyc£e, formerly Jesuits’ College. Near the village of Zahlbach, about a mile beyond the Gauthor, are con- siderable remains of a Roman aqueduct nearly 3000 ft. long, which conveyed water to supply the garrison : 62 pil- lars remain, but it is said to have ori- ginally consisted of 500. The reser- voir which it fed is hardly to be de- tected at present in a small pond near the Gauthor, called the Duck-puddle (Entenpfuhle). Excellent Hochheimer and Rhine wine may be procured at the house of Hoff- man. A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or Castel (CaStellum Drusi), a busy and flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified as a tete de pout. At the extremity of the bridge a bomb-proof block-house serves in time of peace as a barrack; but in case of war the roof can be removed, and the upper platform mounted with camion. There is a heavy toll for car- riages passing the bridge. Railway to Frankfurt in 1 hour ; — to Wiesbaden by Biberich in 16 mi- nutes— Trains 6 times a-day. Eilwagen daily to Darmstadt; to Coblenz, to Worms, and Manheim; — to Saarbruck, Metz, and Paris. (Rte. 101.) The excursions, to be made from Mayence are, —to Frankfurt by rail- way ; to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), visit- ing the Chateau and Garden of Bibe- xich on the way. (Rte. 95.) Steam-boats go from Mayence 6 times a-day to Coblenz and Cologne, twice a day to Manheim during summer, and daily to Strasburg (see Rte. 102.). ROUTE 39. THE AHR VALLEY____REMAGEV TO AHR- WEILER AND ALTENAHR. From Remagen to Altenahr, by the carriage road along the valley of the Ahr, 4 Germ, m. = 19 Eng. m. — by the bridle road over the hill direct, 3| Germ. m. = 17£ Eng. m. The scenery of the Ahr valley is by many esteemed equal in beauty to that of the Rhine. By means of excellent roads it may be explored with the ut- most ease and convenience. Schnellpost daily to Altenahr, in 4 hours. cp A carriage may be h ired at the Preuss- ischer Hof in Remagen, with 1 horse, io Altenahr and back, for 3 thal. Pas- sengers by the steamer may land at Linz, and crossing the Rhine to Kripp engage a carriage there, or start from Sinzig. The pedestrian may find a direct road over the hills from Bonn to Altenahr, by the Kreuzbeig, Ippendorf, Rott- gen, and Meckenheim, or landing from the steamer at Remagen, after seeing the church on the Apollinarisberg may walk over the shoulder of the hill, and join the carriage road at Heppingen; those who travel in a carriage will fol- low the road on the 1. bank of the Rhine, as far as Remagen (p. 272.). Between Remagen and Sinzig the Ahr in summer often dries up to a mere thread, but swelling in winter to a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A carriage road, turning off abruptly at the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley along the 1. bank of the stream, passing through Bodendorf and Lorsdorf; and under the basalt-capped hill of Lands- kron. The ruined walls on its summit are those of a castle, built ] 205 by the Emp. Philip of Hohenstauffen during the war between him and Otho of Brunswick, for the Imperial crown, 1198—1206. Hence, during these wars of Guelph and Ghibelline, liis troops attacked the Archb. of Cologne, and laid waste the neighbouring towns. It was destroyed by the French 1689 ; only its chapel escaped, partly built over a cave lined with basaltic columns, which serves as sacristy. There is a good view from this hill of the winding of the Ahr. Close by the road side, at Heppingen, there is a mineral spring. Below Ahrweiler the valley is tame and.open, though rich and well culti- vated.303 Rhenish Prussia, route 39.—the ahr valley. ,. 2^ Ahrweiler (12 m. from Remagen by the carriage road, by the road over the hill). (Inns ; Kreuzberg; the host has capital Ahrbleichart; — Kai- serlicher Hof; ■— .Stern, good), a town of 2500 inhab., whose chief occupation and wealth are derived from their vine- yards, which cover the slopes of the valley. Ahrweiler is the centre of the wine trade of the valley : the average annual produce is 19,000 ohms. The si- tuation of the town is pretty ; it is still surrounded by walls, and is approached by 4 gates. The church is a beautiful Gothic edifice, with a treble choir (date 1245—74.) The town was burnt by the soldiers of Turenne, 1646, and suf- fered again from the French in 1688. The picturesque Calvarienherg, on the opposite side of the Ahr, is crowned with a Franciscan convent, which has been converted into an Ursuline nun- nery, and occupied by sisters from Montjoie, who keep a ladies’ school. The gate tower at the entrance of the town from Walporzheim is an interest- ing object, well preserved externally. At Walporzheim, the first village traversed by the road after leaving Ahrweiler, the Burgundy grape is cul- tivated, and produces a strong red wine, which is highly prized. Ahrbleichart (i. e. Bleich-roth, pale red). Here the valley contracts, and is hemmed in by rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful scenery which has obtained for the val- ley the name of “ Kleine Scliweitz,” begins. At Marientbal, to the rt. of the road, are the ruins of a convent. Above the road.rise singularly formed, jagged precipices, 200 feet high, from which an isolated block, called die Bunte Kuh, projects over the road. A footpath leads over the. hills from be- hind the village of Dernau to Alten- ahr; “the carriage road, now conti- nued uninterruptedly along the 1. bank of the Ahr, passes in sight of the pictur- esque village of Rech, and under a rock crowned by the ruined castle of Saffenburg, to Mayschoss. The pa- tient toil exerted in cultivating the vine on every accessible shelf of rock up the declivities of the hills around, is not surpassed in the most valuable vineyards on the Rhine. Here and aft Lochmiihle. is the principal fishery of Riimpchen (minnows), which are taken in baskets (like eel pouts) placed in weirs or dams of the river. They should not exceed an inch in length, and hav- ing been cooked in cider and water, are packed in baskets made of willow bark, which imparts to them the bitter flavour for which they are esteemed. The Ahr is also celebrated for its craw-fish and trout, which, however, are taken chiefly in its tributary streams. “ The rocks at Lochmiihle are low and narrow, and a passage has been cut through them by which the road passes without fol- lowing the windings of the river round the projecting hill, but rejoins it on the other side of the cutting, The road then makes a nearly semicircular sweep along the river side, being supported on a wall washed by it.”—T. H. Before reaching Altenahr, a most striking scene opens out: precipices of slate rock rise round to a height of 350 ft., partly wooded, partly covered with vines, and on their highest peak are perched the ruins of the Castle of Al- tenahr, the finest object in the whole valley. A footpath strikes off to the rt. above Reimerzhofen, and leads to the Cross, the best point of view in the valley, whence the castle is well seen. A path on the opposite side leads up to the castle, or down into Altenahr. The traveller should send on his carriage from this to Altenahr, and walk up to the cross. The precipitous rock, crowned by the castle, seems to deny all passage up the valley; the river.sweeps round its base, and forms so complete a curve, that, after a course of a mile and a half, it almost returns to the same point. A tunnel 192 ft. long has been cut through the rock to allow the passage of the road. Altenahr (Inns; Ulrich’s; at the entrance of the town, and Caspari’s are good and clean) is a village of 400 inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of Ahre, above, the town; the view will richly reward the trouble of the ascent. The traveller should then ascend the hill on the W. side of the valley, be- yond the bridge of Altenahr, in order304 ROUTE 40.---THE LOWER ElFEL. Sect. IV. to command a full prospect of the winding course of the Ahr; the path* however, is steep. | Travellers having come to Altenahr in a carriage, or being unable to walk, will of course retrace tiieir steps to the Rhine. A moderately good walker may cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, by the directions given below, he can easily find without a guide, provided he can speak a little German, from the vale of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 stunden = 20 miles) (Rte. 40.), whence he should return to the Rhine through the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought not to be missed. The carriage road from Altenahr up the valley proceeds by way of Alten- burg, situated under a singular isolated rock, formerly crowned by a castle of the lords of the Ahr, The castle of Kreutzberg, with the village of the same name, presents a striking point of view, and the church of Fiitzfeld, perched up in the rocks, with a singu- larly high steeple, is also very pictur- esque. The road continues through Briick and Honningen to Diimpelfeld, where the Adenau falls into the Ahr, and the traveller proceeding to Treves, quits that river. The carriage road ceases at 3j Adenau, a town of 1200 inhab., on one of the tributaries of the Ahr, under the mountain called Hohe Acht, 2434 ft. above the sea, and from which there is a fine view. Adenau itself contains nothing worth notice ; but not far distant are the ruins of the castle of Nurberg, the finest and most extensive feudal stronghold in the Eifel. From hence the traveller may find his way to Mayen (p. 306.), passing another old Castle, Virneberg, whose lords in ancient days, besides other possessions, were the proprietors of 23 villages. The traveller proceeding on foot to the Abbey of Laach from Altenahr, Should proceed up the valley on the road to Adenau by Altenburg and Putzfeld to Briick, and there turn to the eastward along the Hurein brook or Kesseling thal. He need not go along the road as far as Briick; but may if he pleases cross the shoulder of the hill above Fiitzfeld into the Kes- seling valley. Proceed up this valley through Kesseling (2 hrs. from Alten- ahr) and Staffel; a little beyond which latter place, where a brook comes down a valley and falls into the Hurein, turn to the right, i. e. the S., and skirting along the side of the hill to the E. of the brook, proceed to Nieder Hecken- bach. At the sign post in this village turn to the left to Ober Heckenbach, and so on to Hannebach. In passing over the high ground between these two places there is a fine view of the seven mountains: and just after leav- ing Hannebach the castle of Olbriick is seen standing out boldly on the left. From Hannebach proceed over the ridge to Engeln, thence over the high land in a S. E. direction to two crosses, or rather a broken cross, where the rt hand road leads to Mayen, and that on the left to Laach. About J hr. further on, a sign post at the entrance of a beech wood, points with one of its arms to Laach ; plunge boldly into the wood, and after a short walk the lake and abbey burst upon you. ROUTE 40. THE I.OWKR eifel. excursion to the lake of laach, mayen, and lut- zerath. The traveller may leave the Rhine at Brohl, or Andernach (see p. 273.) Suppose he starts from Brohl, (where Nunn’s inn is good,) a cross-road, but calculated for light carriages, as- cends the beautiful, valley of Brohl, passing in succession Nippes, a hamlet named from the Dutch Nieuwc Huis, the paper mill and trim garden of M. Fuchs, the Trass mills and quarries, the Castle of Schweppenburg, once be- longing to the counts of Metternicli, beneath which are many spacious halls and cavernous chambers hollowed out of the rocks. Our path here turns out of the Brohlthal, diverging to the 1. into a side valley, in which issues forth the spring of' Tonnisstein (4£ m.), whose agreeable mineral water resembles those of Setters, but are more effervescent.Rhenish Prussia, route 40.—-the lower eifel.. 305 Mixed with Rhenish wine and sugar it is very palatable. Near the spring stood an ancient Carmelite convent, almost concealed beneath cliffs of tufT stone and slate r it was demolished, and the materials sold for their value, in 1829. Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue out of the rocks in this neighbourhood, some of which have been ingeniously collected by the owner of a chemical manufactory, and are employed in his works. The scenery of the pretty wind- ing valley is very pleasing as far as Wassenach, a small village (6 m. from Brohl), lying at the foot of the hills, whose interior includes the lake of Laach, and having an humble inn, Laa- cher Hof, where pike from the lake may generally be had. A continued ascent of about 1 m. from the village leads to the margin of the Laacher See, a most singular lake, of a nearly circular form, supposed to occupy the crater of an ex- tinct volcano, and nearly resembling the crater lake of Bolsena, in Italy. It lies 666 ft. above the Rhine, is about 1J m. long, and about l£ broad, its area being 1300 acres. The depth is great, increasing towards the centre, where a plumb-line sinks to 214 feet. There is a popular notion similar to that attached to the lake Avernus, in Italy, that no bird can fly over the Laacher See, in consequence of the poi- sonous vapours arising from it. This belief seems to have originated from the circumstance that a jet of carbonic acid gas issues from a scarcely percept- ible opening on the N. E. side of the lake. It is the only remaining^ symp- tom of the volcanic action once so pow- erful in this district. Bodies of birds, squirrels, bats, toads, &c., have been found in a pit near this jet, killed by the noxious vapours, which resemble those of the Grotto del Cane, in Italy. The Laacher See is fed by numerous Springs below the surface, which keep its basin constantly filled. It has no natural Outlet; but the superfluous wa- ters are carried off through a subter- raneous canal or emissary, nearly 1 m. long, cut by the monks in the 12th century, after an inundation which threatened to overwhelm the abbey< A new tunnel is projected by the pro* prietor, to lay dry a portion of the lake bed. The appearance of the deep blue lake, hemmed in on all sides by it ridge of hills completely covered with luxuriant wood down to the water's edge, is exceedingly imposing as well as singular. On a near examination its banks will be found to be scattered over with masses of scoriae, cinders, ashes, and pumice, and other volcanic products. At the opposite extremity, in a quiet secluded nook, shut out as it were from the whole world, lies the deserted Abbey of Laach, a picturesque object, with its 6 towers. It was ori- ginally a very wealthy Benedictine Convent with more thah 200 chambers,' There were 52 monks at the time of its suppression by the French. Its revenue having been sequestrated at the time of the French Revolution, it was sold a few years ago, together with the lake and woods adjoining, for only 40,000 thalers. It is the property of the Prasidentinn von Delius, by whose family it is inhabited during the sum- mer, and seems to be kept in perfect repair. A great portion of the build- ing is now, however, used for farming purposes, and its once hospitable halls occupied by cow-stalls. The Churchi however, containing several old family monuments, has been purchased aind re- stored, at the expense of the K. of Prus- sia. The colouring in the ch. and cloisters is the same as that which was discovered under the whitewash to have originally decorated the archi- tecture. It is perhaps the most perfect and complete example known of an edi- fice in the round-arched style. It was built between 1093 and 1156. It is entered at the W. end through a cloister. The tomb of the founder, Pfalzgraf Hen; II. stands, within the ch. at the W. end, surmounted by his effigy in wood. He is represented in his princely mantle and hat and bearing in his hand the model of the ch. There is an old chapel at a short distance from the convent, in thd same style as the abbey church, and ap- parently of the same date, which is rtowf306 ROUTE 41.-!—COBLENZ TO TREYES. BERTRICH. Sect. IV. used as a granary. There is a small Inn in the abbey close, which will fur- nish refreshments and provide Ji or 3 bed rooms. There is a most picturesque view of the abbey and lake from the hill about £ mile on the road to Mayen on the first ascent from the shore of the lake. . The traveller may return by way of Wassenach to Andernach along a toler- ably good carriage road, a drive of about 2£ hours; but if he has time, from Kloster Laach he should visit the great Millstone quarries of Nieder Men- dig, 2 miles S. £. of the abbey, which have been worked, it is supposed, for 2000 years. The hard porous lava, which was probably a stream from one of the neighbouring volcanoes, ex- tending nearly 5 miles in length by S in breadth, has here been hollowed out by the quarriers into funnel-shaped pits, from the bottom of which spacious subterraneous caverns ramify, deserving by all means to be explored. The lava separates into gigantic columns from 15 to 40 feet high, by natural seams or fissures, and some of them are left to support the roof. The small additional expense of torches to light up these caverns will be well repaid. Their temperature is icy cold. ; From Mendig (where there is no good inn) the traveller may return to the banks of the Rhine at Andernach (6 m.), by a bad road. There are, however, many other objects of interest, both for the lover of the picturesque and for the geologist, in this district. About 2 miles S.W. of Laach are the cave-like excavations of Bell, whence oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. The direct road from Mendig to Cob- lenz (14 m.) passes the ch. of St. Ge- novefa. A tolerable road leads from Mendig to Mayen, along the banks of the Nette, passing the interesting and well-pre- served castle of Burresheim, under the Hoch Simmer, a volcanic mountain. There are many other fine old ruined eastles in the Eifel, as Yirneberg, Ol- briick, a noble ancient fortress: its donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 at its base, and it has a tower 170 ft. high. Wer- nerseck and Manderscheid (p. 325.) are two more remarkable castles. Mayen (Inns: Post: — Stern, com- fortable) is a picturesque and ancient town, 6 miles from Laach, through Bell and Ettringen, with a castle, surrounded by walls and gardens. There are many millstone quarries near it. Schnellpost daily to Coblenz. From Mayen the traveller has the choice of the following routes: — 1. By Polch to Munster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, Treis, and Carden, where he will find himself in the most beautiful spot on the Moselle, and may ascend that river to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. Starting from Mayen very early in the morning, and proceeding through Collig to Pillig and Schloss Pyrmont in a carriage, the traveller may, after in- specting Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the country to Schloss Elz, see that, and descending the valley of the Elz reach Moselkern in time for the steamer descending to Coblenz. 2. The high post-road to Treves and Coblenz ( Route 41.). 3. If he take an interest in geo- logy, he may proceed by a rough cross- road to the mountain called “ Hohe Acht,” near Kaleborn, 2200 feet above the sea, commanding from its summit a most extensive view. He will find a road leading- thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (p. 307.) to Abr weiler (p. 303.), and to the Upper Eifel (p. 323.). ROUTE 41. COBLENZ 'TO TREVES_BERTRICH. 15§ Pruss. miles = 71 Eng. miles. Schnellpost daily in 16 hours; with extra post the distance may be travelled easily in 12. The road, though veiy hilly, is good, and the country (especi- ally in the neighbourhood of Liitzerath) not unpicturesque. Within a short dis- tance, between the road and the Moselle, there are some charming scenes. As there is no post-road along the banks of the Moselle, the best way to explore its beauties is to ascend or descend it in the steamer (p. 313.). Upon the first stage from Coblenz to Treves lie many unimportant villages;Wien. Prus. ROUTE 41. —BATHS OF BERTRICH. WITXLICH. 307 but the first of them, Metternich, gives its name to a family now known all over Europe. [Twice a week the schnellpost, in- stead of passing through Polch, makes a slight detour by the little town of Mayen, 3£ G. m. (Route 40.) to Kai- sersesch, 1^ m.] 3} Polch. [The small town of Munster-Maifeld {Inn, Bey Canaris) lies on the left of the road, about 5 m. off, in a beautiful situation. By some it is said to have been the birth-place of Caligula (?). The Ch. of St. Martin, standing on a Roman foundation, “ is handsome in the interior, though plain. It contains a marble group, nearly life-size, of the Deposition, and 2 fine sculptured Tryp- tychs or folding altar-pieces, painted. The W. end is quite castellated.” — F. S. About 3 m. distant, in the midst of one of the most picturesque of all the tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands the very interesting old castle of Elz, described in Route 42. The castle is about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. About 3 m. higher up the valley is another castle, Pyrmont, in ruins, having been burnt by the Swedes in 1641; near it is a cascade.] . Halfway between Kehrig and Dun- genheim the road crosses the picturesque valley of the Elz. : The traveller coming from Treves, and wishing to explore the Lower Eifel (Route 40.), would turn off to the left at Kehrig, towards Mayen, instead of proceeding at once to Coblenz.. 2\ Kaisersesch. Cross the picturesque Martenthal. . 2-J Liitzerath. Inn, Post; not good. A public carriage goes daily brom Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle : it belongs to the post-master, who is also post-master at Alf. He runs another carriage to Dreis. See Route 44. This is the best starting-point for an excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper Eifel. ( Route 45.) An excellent road leads through most interesting Scenery from Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle, about 10 m., pass- ing the very retired Baths of BertricA, nearly half-way. They lie in the depths of the narrow: valley of the Ues, or Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities; which present, a succession of scenes; varying every few; yards, and for the umbrageous foliage of the woods, which clothe its sides from top to bottom- Just before the road descends into the valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, a conical hill cut in two as it were, crested with, basalt, in the crannies of which the falcons nestle. It was probably a vol- canic crater, from which a stream of basalt, occupying the lower part pf the valley above the slate rocks which form its sides, may have issued, though the lava current has not been absolutely traced to this source. Its gloomy cre- vices and grottoes, glazed with black, are well worth exploring. A mile farther, at the junction of a little rivulet with the Iss, another basaltic current enters the valley. It appears to have been cut through by the stream, which, falling in a small cascade, has laid open a singular grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of which consist of small basaltic columns, worn away at the joints, so as to re- semble cheeses. This has obtained for the cave its common name of cheese? cellar (Kasekeller). The junction of the clay-slate and lava is very distinctly seen in the bed of the rivulet. The Baths of Bertrich consist of an assem- blage of inns and boarding-houses, (among which Werling’s Inn, the Kur- haus, is very good) in a romantic and retired spot, shut in by hills, and air most canopied by woods, intersected by agreeable walks. The waters are warm (90° Fahr.) and sulphurous. The sea- son lasts till August; but Bertrich is a quiet rather than fashionable water- ing place, and its accommodations are homely compared with Baden or Wies- baden. It is well situated as head- quarters for travellers intending to ex- plore the Moselle. The steamboat from Coblenz to Treves touches daily at Alf, a village at the junction of the Issbach and Moselle, 5 m. below the Baths. (Route 42.) A capital road leads thither. From Bertrich to Treves, a rough but picturesque road, over the mountains, falls into the high road at Wittlich (8 m.); see below. s 308 ROUTE 41.—TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. Sect. IV. About 2 miles out of Liitzerath the rOad crosses what is called the Liitze- ratber Kehr (from kehrett, to turn), one of the valleys peculiarly characteristic of the Eifel district, and remarkable for their wonderful windings and con- tortions. Every projection on the one Side of it corresponds with a bay or recess on the other, so that the stream of the Ues or Jss-bach, which flows through it, driven from one side to the other, by these advancing and retreat- ing buttresses, is seen at one time in 7 different bends or turns, taking at every bend which it makes an exactly opposite direction to that in which it had pre- viously flowed. It is altogether a sin- gular scene. 2J Wittlich (Inn, Post; good), a town of 2200 inhab. An extremely bad' cross-road leads hence to Bertrich baths, (8 m.). The descent into the glen on this side is very fine. 2 Hetserath. Beyond Schweich, the Moselle is crossed by a ferry, and the road pro- ceeds by the rt. bank to Treves, passing, hear the entrance of the town, the Porta Nigra or Black Gate (p. 311.). Treves (German, Trier) Inns: Trierischer Hof; — Das Rothe Ilaus (the red-house), comfortable and well situated; — Luxemburger Hof. - This very ancient city stands on the ft. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, surrounded by low, vine-clad hills; it has 16,000 inhab. An inscription on the wall of the Rothe Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts that Treves was built before Rome — *• Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC.” Without giving credit to this, it may fairly be considered the oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, when he flrst led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, found Treves (b.c. 58) the flourishing capital of a power- ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, tendered them great as- sistance in conquering the neighbouring tribes. The Empr. Augustus estab- lished here a Roman colony, under the hame of Augusta Trevirorum, and be- stowed on it the privileges of having a senate and magistrates of its own. It became the capital of First Belgic Gaul (which, it must be remembered), com- prised not only Gaul, properly so called, but the whole of Spain and Britain) ; and in later times it was the residence of the emperors Constantius, Constantine the Great, Julian, Valen- tinian, Valcns, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so eminent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. . It was indeed the capital of the Roman empire N. of the Alps. Although almost annihilated during the invasion of the Goths, Huns, and Van- dals, it arose to a height of splendour nearly equalling its former state, under the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, who were Princes and Electors of the empire. Many of them seem to have aimed more at temporal than spiritual sway. They maintained large armies,' which, after the fashion of the times, they did not scruple to lead in person, clad in armour. The ambition and talents of many of these episcopal rulers increased their dominions so much, a» to obtain for them considerable political influence in Germany. Treves was taken by the English under Marl- borough in the War of the Succession, 1702-4; and at the French Revolution suffered the usual fortune of having its churches and convents stripped of their wealth-, and the buildings turned into stables or warehouses. Before that event Treves boasted of possessing more ec- clesiastical buildings than any other city of the same size. Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it possesses for the traveller to the Roman remains still existing in and about it. No other city of Germany or northern Europe pos- sesses such extensiverelicsofthemasters of the world. They are not, it is true, in the best style of art, and are remark- able rather for vastness than beauty; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in the S. of France or in Italy. They have like- wise suffered severely, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals them-Rhen. Prus. route 41.—cathedrae, heidenthurm. 309 selves, but from the prejudices of the early Christians, who believed they were doing good service to their religion by effacing all traces of Paganism from the earth. Many of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish materials for modern constructions. In the market-place stands a pillar of granite, surmounted by a cross, raised to commemorate the appearance of a fiery cross in the sky, seen, according to an obscure tradition, in 958. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen is an irregular building, chiefly in the earliest Romanesque or Byzantine style. The semicircular terminations both of the E. and W. ends are full of Roman bricks. Indeed the nucleus of the building is supposed to have been of Roman construction, and to have been built by the empress Helena, mo- ther of Constantine the Great, who de- posited in it the supposed relic, our Saviour’s Coat without seam; which, after an interval of 34 years, was exhibited for 8 weeks in 1844 to 1,100,000 pil- grims I The first historical mention of it is in 1190; a full account has been published by Prof. Marx, of Treves. The original building of Helena is sup- posed to have consisted of 9 arches, supported in the centre by 4 colossal pillars of granite ; S of these still exist in their place ; indeed, all the 4 Corin- thian capitals are visible in the interior of the church. The fourth gave way, and, to prevent the total destruction of the building, its place was supplied by a square pier of masonry, and the others were walled up by Archbp. Poppo, who repaired the church in the 11th cent. This fractured column lies at present on the outside of the church ; it must have been brought from a distance, — perhaps from the Odenwald. The E. choir was added in the latter half of the 12th cent., 'and is an instance of the latest and lightest Romanesque. The church was roofed and altered about 1200, at which time additions in the pointed style were introduced. Within the church are numerous monuments cf Electors of Treves, including that of the warlike prelate Richard von Greif- cnklau, who defended the city in person against Franz of Sickingen. “ A marble bas-relief, on the tomb of Archbp. Hugo, of the Adoration of the Magi, is worthy of observation.”—D. J. The carving of the marble pulpit is good, as far as the mutilations, caused by the French leave the means of judging. The seats of the choir are singularly inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic (Marquetrie). A portion of the large funds derived from the exhibition of the Holy Coat are being applied to the restoration of the Cathedral, which is carried into ef- fect by painting over the marble and wood carving, and whitewashing the stonework. The cloisters date from a very early period. >/ Adjoining the cathedral stands the far more graceful Church of Our Lady (Liehfrauenkirche), built in the most elegant Pointed style, between 1227 and 1243 ; and, being one of the earliest specimens of pure Gothic, to be com- pared with the similar and contem- poraneous churches of Marburg in Hesse, Altenberg near Cologne, and the cathedrals of Amiens, Salisbury, and Cologne. The semicircular portal is richly ornamented with sculpture, and the interior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is supported by 12 pillars, each bearing the picture of an apostle. A little black stone in the pavement near the door is the only spot whence all these can be seen at once. The monu- ment of Archbp. Jacob von Sirk is a fine work of an unknown sculptor. A doorway in the N. Transept also is well worth attention. The Portal of the Jesuits' Church is very good. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, a very handsome and extensive build- ing, is now a barrack. The principal staircase displays much rich and elabo- rate carving. This palace stands partly upon the site of an enormous Roman edifice, only a fragment of which re- mains ; the larger portion having been demolished to make way for the epis- copal edifice, erected in 1614. This co- lossal fragment has been included in the palace, and goes with the vulgar by the name Of the Heathens' Tower (Heiden- thurm). It was probably the Basilica. or imperial hall attac\ied to the Palace,310 ROUTE 41—TREVES. BATHS. AMPHITHEATRE. Sect. TV. the semicircular termination or apse at the E. end having been the tribunal; and the whole perhaps at one time turned into a church ; as was the case with si- milar halls in Rome. Be this as it may, the gigantic proportions of this Roman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 feet high, and 10 feet thick, give a very good idea of the vast dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a master-piece of architecture ; as the bricks and tiles, of which it is wholly composed, remain to this day perfectly smooth on the surface, solid and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack or seam; but the King of Prussia has caused it to be cleared out and restored in its original condition, and to its former use as a Ch. Additional interest attaches to these old walls, if we con- sider them as the favourite residence of Constantine, and that out of them issued the decrees which governed at the same time Rome, Constantinople, and Bri- tain. In front of this building extends an open space of ground, now used for drilling troops; at its further extremity stand the shattered remains of the Baths, Therma? ( Beider-Pallast). Until within a few years, they were included in the S. E. angle of the fortifications of the town, and were half buried in the earth; so that the windows on the first story being on a level with the ground, served as an entrance into the town, and were barbarously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market carts of the peasantry: ’ from this the building got the name of the White Gate. Under the direction of the Prussian govern- ment these ruins have been laid bare. They resemble, on a small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla and Domitian at Rome. Vaulted rooms, reservoirs, re- mains of a hypocaust, earthen pipes, and channels for the passage of hot as well as cold water, have been brought to light, and seem to explain the original destination of the building. The mas- siveness of the well-turned arches, and the thickness of the walls, will excite admiration at the skill of the builders who raised them, and surprise at the violence which has reduced them to se utter a state of dilapidation. About 5- m. to the E. of the baths, outside the walls, on the road to Olewig, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It comes unexpectedly into sight, being scooped out of the side of the Marsberg, a hill covered with vineyards, which but a few years ago extended over the arena itself.' The late king of Prussia purchased the ground, and cleared away the earth which covered it to the depth of 20 ft. It is interesting in an historical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantine en- tertained his subjects with a spectacle, which he called Frankish sports (Ludi Francici), and which consisted in ex- posing many thousand unarmed Frank- ish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. He twice exhibited these diver- sions (a. d. 306 and 313), and the fawn- ing chroniclers of the time have not scrupled to call it a magnificent sight, “ magnificum spectaculum, — famosa supplicia.” So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts de- sisted of their own accord from their work of destruction, and left many alive, fatigued with slaughtering. Those who survived were made to fight as gla- diators against one another ; but they are said to have spoilt the amusement of the hard-hearted spectators, by vo- luntarily falling on each other’s swords, instead- of contending for life. The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully levelled, is 234 ft. long and 155 broad : deep channels for water run round and through the centre: they were supplied by an aqueduct from the stream of the Ruwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of various wild animals have been discovered in digging, and one or two cave-like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previously to exhi- bition. This Amphitheatre, capable of holding about 6000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison with those of Nismes, Verona, or the Coli- seum, as, instead of being surrounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena,Rhen: Prus. route 41.—tkeves. abbeys, black gate. 311 served to support the seats for the spectators. All traces of these have dis- appeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphi- theatre was long regarded no otherwise than as a quarry. Archways of solid masonry flanked by towers (no part of which now remain) formed the main entrances to the arena at the N. and S. £. extremity; in addition to which, 2 vaulted passages (vomitoriaV bored through the hill, led into the arena from the side of Treves, and still remain in tolerable preservation. One of them has been converted into a cellar, and contains the wine which grows imme- diately over it. It is commonly called the Kays Keller (Caesar’s cellar), be- cause it is supposed to have led to the Roman emperor’s private box. The other is not yet cleared out. The Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water to Treves from the Ruwer, still exists in those places where it passed under ground; it was 3 or 4ft. broad, and nearly 6 ft. high. The part which was supported upon pillars across the val- leys has entirely disappeared. The Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwartzes Thor), called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monu- ment of antiquity in Treves; and has all the massive simplicity of the Roman style. Neither its age nor use has been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is reputed ( with much probability) to have been built in the days of Constantine the Great, between S14 and S22. Kugler, indeed, regards it as a work of the Franks, dating not from classic times, but from the middle ages. Its front is decorated with rows of Tuscan columns, its lower story is very massive; and it niay have originally been the entrance gate on the N. line of the city wall. Some have fixed the date of the building prior to the arrival of the Ro- mans, and have called it the Forum, Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- gse; but the style of architecture favours the belief that it was a work of the Lower Empire. In the 11th cent., an anchorite named Simeon of Syracuse, who bad been a monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, on his return from the Holy Land, posted himself on the top of the build- ing, in imitation of bis namesake Simeon the Stylite. His ascetic and eccentric life gained for him the repu- tation of sanctity ; and in consequence he was enrolled in the calendar. Not long after his death, the building was consecrated and dedicated to St. Si- meon by Archbp. Poppo. To fit it for the service of religion, he added a semicircu- lar apsis to one end, which still remains a curious specimen of architecture, and formed S churches in it one above the other, in which service was regularly performed down to the beginning of the present century. Like most ancient structures, the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had become buried beneath earth and rubbish, so that the entrance to it was by a long flight of steps, leading to the first floor. In this state Napoleon found it on his arrival at Treves. It is insinu- ated, that a want of ammunition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to free the building from its incumbrances, as he went no further than tearing off the thick lead from the roofr which he melted into bullets. The work of im- provement has been executed by the Prussian government; the building has been divested of its ecclesiastical cha- racter, and restored, as far as possible, to its original condition, the earth having been cleared from its base. It exhibits various marks of the dilapida- tions of barbarous ages and people; The masonry, of vast blocks of sand- stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned ; but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their corners. The interior serves to hold a few shat- tered fragments of antiquity, of no great interest, dug up in the neighbour- hood : the most curious pieces are, a bas-relief of gladiators found in the amphitheatre, a mermaid with 2 tails,312 BOTJTE 41---TREVES. TOWN LIBRARY. Sect. IV. several earthenware pipes from the baths, and 2 Roman milestones from Bit burg. Besides the Roman remains already enumerated, there is within the town (in the Dietrichs Strasse, not far from the Rothe Haus), a Tower or Propug- naculum, in an excellent state of pre- servation. The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Roman monument in Treves, and founded in the time of Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its construction has been fixed by a learned antiquary about 28 years b. c. It originally stood near the middle of the town, which has gradually dwindled away till it has left the bridge at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIV.! In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining are the piers of large stones, brought from the lava quarries at Men- dig, near the Lake of Laach. Many single blocks are from 6 to 9 ft. long, 3 broad, and 3 thick. There were anciently 4 abbeys at Treves, celebrated for their riches and extent all over Germany ; but of their wealth nothing now remains, and even the original edifices, destroyed by fires and violence, are replaced by modern structures. They are — St, Matthias, about a mile above the town, now con- verted into a school. The ch. (partly ancient) is actually visited with many thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin, at one time perhaps the richest Benedictine monastery in Germany, is now used as a barrack; it occupies the site of a palace of Constantine, but possesses no other interest. St. Martin’s on the Moselle is a china manufactory. St. Mary of the Fovr Martyrs, below the town, stands where the residence of the Roman Prefect stood, and where 4 soldiers of the Theban legion suffered martyrdom, according to the tradition. - In the Gymnasiums Gebaude (for- merly a University, now removed,) is the Town Library of 94,000 vols., containing many literary curiosities, the chief of them being the famous Codex Aureus, a MS. of the four Gos- pels written in golden letters, formerly in the abbey of St. Maximin, to which it was given by Ada, sister of Charle- magne. It is bound in plates of silver gilt, on which are embossed figures in high relief, interspersed with precious stones ; and in the centre is a splendid cameo, said to represent Au- gustus-and his family. There is also here Archbishop Egbert’s copy of the Gospels, as well as other MSS., and many printed books of great value; among them Gutemberg’s first Bible. There is also a large collection of an- cient coins and medals, and Romau remains, principally found at Treves. The Fathers of the Church, St. Am- brose was born here, and St. Jerome studied here. The Environs abound in delightful points of excursion, fine views, &c. Pallien, a village on the left bank of the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine up which the road to Aix-la-Cbapelle is carried, is worth visiting on account of the picturesque character of the rocky dell, of the water-mills enclosed be- tween its cliffs, and of its brick bridge of a single arch thrown over the ravine by Napoleon. (Rte. 43.) On the height al>ove Pallien stands a pretty villa, called the White House; it com- mands a good general view of the valley oft the Moselle, and of the town of Treves. Igel, a small village, with an inn, about 6 m. from Treves, on the high road to Luxemburg, and upon the an- cient 'Roman highway, is particularly deserving of a visit from all who take an interest in remains of antiquity, on account of the Igel Saule (monument of Igel), a beautiful Roman structure, standing in the midst of it, close to the road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sandstone, more than 70 ft. high, bear- ing carvings, inscriptions, and bas- reliefs, but so mutilated in parts, that neither its age nor destination has yet- been precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 dif- ferent explanations have been given of it, and at least as many readings of the inscriptions by. the antiquaries. . OneRhenish Prussia, route 42. — the moselle. 313 states it to have been raised^ to com- memorate the marriage of Constantine and Helena; another, that it records the birth of Caligula, tracing some re- semblance between his name and that of the place, Igel. A third considers it to allude to the apotheosis of some person of imperial rank. The plain matter of fact seems to be, that it was set up by two brothers named Secundi- nus; partly as a funeral monument to their deceased relatives; partly to cele- brate their sister’s marriage, which is represented on one of the bas-reliefs by the figures of a man and woman joining hands. The Secundini were a rich and powerful family, who, it appears from the inscription, in addition to other offices, held those of post-master and chief of the commissariat, and sup- plied the Roman army with food, accoutrements, and carriages, which is further denoted by the figure of a cha- riot, filled with armour, &c., the sub- ject of another bas-relief. From the style of the architecture and carvings, the monument has been referred to the time of the Antonines: some imagine it to belong to the era of Constantine. Malte Brun says, “ the end of the 4th century.” “ It has great excellence as a work of art, and as a successful ex- ample of the combination of monu- mental architecture with sculptural decoration ; as a whole, its preservation also is remarkable.”— G. C. L. Schnellposts daily from Treves to Coblenz in 14 hours, to Luxemburg in 6 hours, to Metz in 15:—to Bingen (Rte. 46.); and to Aix-la-Chapelle in 19hrs. (Rte. 34.) Steam-boats on the Upper Moselle between Treves, Thionville, and Metz during the summer. See Handbook for France. Daily between Treves and Coblenz. (Rte. 42.) ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. -FROM TREVES TO COBLENZ. Distance, about 150 Eng. m.: — more than double that of the land journey, owing to the windings of the river. Steamers daily :— up to Treves in 1 £ day, starting from Coblenz at 6 a. m. for Bcrncastel, and proceeding on the following day to Treves; down in 13 hrs., starting from Treves at 5 a. m. They take carriages. Row-boats may be hired at every village to cross or drop down the river for short dis- tances. Becker’s “ Map of the Course of the Moselle,” and Delkescamp's “ Pano- rama,” may be useful. The voyage up or down the Moselle is a most interesting excursion ; 3 or 4 days may be very agreeably spent on its banks. This river offers a new and pleasing route to travellers visiting the Rhine, who have hitherto been content to go and return by Cologne, thus re- tracing their steps over ground they have seen before. The route by the Moselle is equally accessible ; by taking it, they will add variety to their jour- ney, and make a better use of their time. An agreeable way of seeing the lower part of the Moselle in detail in one day, is to take the steamer from Coblenz up the river to any given spot of interest where it stops, just far enough to allow the traveller to visit the glens and ruins on each side, making use of a boat occasionally, and working downwards, taking care to stop at some village where the down steamer will put in to take up passengers. Thus he may go up to Carden, Aiken, take a walk to Ehrenburg, cross to Gondorf, go up to Cobern, cross back to Niederfell in time for the evening boat, and so return to Coblenz. The Prussian government have de- voted a considerable sum to the im- provement of the bed of the Moselle between Coblenz and Treves. In order fully to appreciate the beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary to land at certain points indicated in the following route, and view it from its high banks. The Pedestrian alone can reach by bye-paths and cross-roads, not passable for carriages, the finest points of view ; at one time creeping along the margin P314 ROUTE 42.—THE MOSELLE. Sect. IV. of the river, at another surveying it from the heights above. In every village he may find a boat in which he may embark when tired, and may thus shift about from one side of . the river to the other. By crossing the narrow necks of land, he may often save 6 or 8 miles, and reach in half an hour a spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 to arrive at. In making these short cuts, however, he may sometimes miss fine scenes on the river. The Inns upon the Moselle are im- proved, but many of them will by no means satisfy fastidious travellers. Those at Berncastel, Alf, and Carden, are capital; at Zeltingen tolerable. The usual Charges at the Inns, seen and confirmed annually by the magis- trates, are, for dinner 1^ S. gr., tea or coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. The banks of the Moselle, though on the whole inferior in beauty to those of the Rhine, by no means present a re- petition of the same kind of scenery. It is generally of a less wild and barren character; instead of black bare ravines and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by round and undulating hills, covered not merely with vines, but often clothed in rich woods, such as the Rhine can- not boast of. It is much enlivened with picturesque towns and villages, of which there are more .than 100 be- tween Coblenz and Treves, while ruins of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic church steeples are not wanting to give a religious or romantic tone to the landscape. The Moselle is particularly remarkable for its very complicated windings, which in several parts of its course form projecting promontories, almost isolated by the river. Some of the side valleys, too, which merge into the Moselle, are in the highest degree picturesque ; and the view of the ex- traordinary windings of the river, from the heights above it, are as singular as they are enchanting. The Moselle is not deficient in classical associations: it is even the subject of a poem by Ausonius, written probably during his residence at Treves; and traces of the Romans may be discovered in almost every village along its banks, if not above ground, at least wherever the soil is turned by the spade. The first part of the voyage from Treves to Berncastel presents nothing of great interest: and it is not worth while to enumerate names of unimpor- tant villages. 1. The tall chimneys, in the recess of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke proceeding therefrom, proclaim the iron- works of Quindt. rt.. Neumagen is the Roman No- viomagus, where Constantine had a palace, the “ inclyta castra Constan- tini” of Ausonius, of which few frag- ments now remain. The Church was built 1190, partly with the materials of the Roman palace. 1. Pisport (Pisonis Porta), Hain’s Inn. One of the most famous vine- yards on the Moselle. rt. Opposite Dusemond is another vineyard, producing the capital wine called Brauneberger. rt. Miihlheim. Here the scenery improves in beauty. rt. Berncastel (Inns: Drei Ko- nige, clean and good fare, and most comfortable; the landlady speaks En- glish :— Bey Niederehe;—the Post, not bad;)—a dirty town of 2000 in- hab., on the way from Bingen to Treves ( Rte. 46.), picturesquely situated under a ruined castle perched on a ledge of the Hundsriick mountains, which here approach close to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. Travellers tired of a boat should by all means cross the hills to Trarbach, an agreeable walk of an hour from Berncastel. The distance by land is about 3 miles, by water 15. The inn at Trarbach is bad. 1. Directly opposite Berncastel lies Cus. The Hospital was founded by Cardinal Cusanus, who was born here, the son of a poor fisherman, and raised himself to that dignity by his talents. Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con- taining the very fine monument of John of Neuberg (1569). . The rt. bank of the Moselle is here draped with vine-Rhenish Prussia, route 42. •— the moselle. 315 yards from top to bottom. (rt.) A little below- Graacli is the Priory of Martinsliof, now secularised. xt. Zeltingen.—Huber’s Inn, toler- ably comfortable and moderate. This ipay be said to be the centre of the wine district of the Moselle, in which all the best sorts are produced. 1. Uerzig. Below this village, in the face of a tall red cliff called Michael- sley, a castellated wall is visible. It covers the mouth of a cave which once served to harbour a band of robber- knights, and afterwards to shelter a hermit. It was accessible only by means of high ladders. rt. Trarbach (the derivation of the name, from “ Thronus Bacchi,” is pro- bably fanciful). — Inns: Brauneberg, and Grafinburg. The best red wine of the Moselle may be had here. The situation of this highly picturesque but most dirty little town, of 1300 inhab;, is very beautiful; it lies in the mouth of a side valley, opening upon the Mo- selle ; but it is not otherwise interest- ing, and its narrow and dirty streets offer no temptation to penetrate within its gates. A neat Townhall, in modern Gothic style, has been built. The castle above it, called Grafinburg was one of the strongest between Treves and Coblenz: commanding entirely the passage of the Moselle. It was the family residence of the noble Counts of Sponheim, and was built in the 14th century (1338) with an Archbishop’s ransom. A long and deadly feud had existed between the Archbishops of Treves and the Counts of Sponheim, when, in 1325, the death of Count Henry held out to the reigning Arch- bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich- ing himself at the expense of the widowed Countess; taking advantage, therefore, of her unprotected position, he made inroads into her domain, plundering her subjects, and laying waste her lands. The Countess Loretta, how- ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, and was not a person to submit tamely to such insults and injury ; so, calling together her vassals, she boldly ex- pelled the intruders with loss and disgrace; equally to the surprise and indignation of Baldwin, who little expected such opposition from a fe- male. The very same year, as the bishop was quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small retinue, his barge was suddenly arrested nearly abreast of the Castle of Strakenburg, by a chain stretched across the river below the surface; and before he had time to recover from his surprise, armed boats put off from the shore, and he was led a prisoner into the Castle of the Countess. She treated her persecutor with courtesy, but kept him fast with- in her walls until he agreed to abandon a fort which he had begun to build on her territory, and paid down a large ransom. The finest scenery of the Moselle lies between Trarbach and Cobern. 1. Traberi.—Inn, Hotel Claus, un- pretending, but clean, and moderate. Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, converted into a promontory by the windings of the Moselle. On the submit of it, Vauban constructed for Louis XIV. (1681), in the time of peace, and upon German territory, a strong fortress, completely command- ing the river up and down. The pre- text for this proceeding was the unjust claim urged by Louis to the domains of the Counts of Sponheim. AfteV 8000 men had been employed in con- structing it, and an expenditure of many millions of francs had been in- curred, it was razed to the ground, in conformity with the treaty of Ryswyk, 16 years after it was built, and a few broken walls and shattered casemates alone mark the site of Fort MontroyaL The view from it is grand. rt. Starkenburg, a village on an eminence, which once bore a castle of the same name, belonging to the Counts of Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its outworks extended down to the water side, and some towers and walls still remain. rt. Enkirch, a village of 2000 in- hab. ; near it are fragments of shafts of pillars, which go by the name of the Temple, and are perhaps Roman. On approaching (rt.) the village o.316 ROUTE 42.---THE MOSELLE. Sect. IV. Punderich, the ruins of (1.) Marien- burg, alternately a nunnery and a for- tress, appear in sight; and from their position, on the summit of a high dor- sal ridge, which the Moselle by its windings converts into a promontory, remain long in view. The distance to Alf, from (1.) the village of Reil, near which a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the red colour of the soil) strikes upwards through the vineyards across the Isthmus, is under 3 miles; by the winding Moselle it is a voyage in ascending of hour. Travellers should on no account omit to land here, opposite Punderich, and walk across the neck to Marienburg and Alf, which may be done in an hour. The view from the eminence a little to the W. of Marienburg, called Prinzenskopfchen, is the most surprising and pleasing that the whole course of the Moselle pre- sents. It is a little like that from Symon’s Yat on the Wye, but is on a much grander scale. Owing to the excessive sinuosities of the river, 4 different reaches appear in view at once, radiating as it were from the foot of the rock on which you stand. A wav- ing amphitheatre of hills, covered with dark forest, occupies the horizon, and nearer at hand vine-clad slopes, villages at the water side, and old castles, with the Fort Arras on the Issbach, to the W., are the accessories of this beautiful panorama. There is a little inn with- in the ruins of Marienburg, where you may breakfast or dine. rt. Zell (Koch’s Inn, not bad) is a little town of 1800 inhab. opposite the point of the promontory on which Ma- rienburg stands, overlooked by a guar- dian watch-tower. 1. Alf. (Inn, Bey Theissen, ex- cellent—the best on the Moselle.) Alf, a good halting-place for the traveller on the Moselle, is a village prettily situated at the mouth of the winding valley of the Issbach; above it stands the church, and further up the valley rises the picturesque hill fort of Arras, which stood out for a long time in J138, against Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who swore not to shave till he had taken it, and kept his word. 2 m. up the valley are the extensive iron forges and furnaces of M. Remy, con- structed according to the most improved English method. The iron is brought from Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the mines of Saarbruck. About 6 m. up this sylvan valley are the retired Baths of Bertrich (p. 307.); an excel- lent new carriage road leads to them from Alf, where vehicles may usually be procured. No one should quit Alf without enjoying the very extraordinary prospect from the Prinzenskopfchei) near the Marienburg mentioned above — half an hour’s walk. Soon after leaving Alf there is a very remarkable echo. 1. Bremm, a wide and solitary spot, enclosed by huge dark hills. It is difficult to guess how the river finds its way out; indeed it has very much the appearance of the head of a lake. The steep slopes behind the village re- semble somewhat the cliff of the Lur- ley in boldness, but they are covered with vines to the very top. rt. On the pretty green meadow opposite stood, until the time of the French Revolution, the nunnery of Stuben ; the massive wall of a ruined chapel, pierced with pointed windows, still remains. 1. There is a path from the village of Eller over the hills to Cochem, only 4 m. long. The windings of the river between these two places cannot be less than 12 m., but those who avail themselves of this short cut will lose some of the prettiest scenery on the river. 1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 1. Senhals. Heinrich’s Inn. Little else than vines visible hereabouts, (rt. ) Senheim at a little distance from the river. rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra- vellers should on no account think of stopping here. One of the most pic- turesque ruined castles on the Moselle, surmounted by a square donjon-keep, overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the Electors of Treves, who deputed their noble vassals, the Metternichs andR. Prus* R. 42. — MOSELLE. TREIS. CARDEN. SCHLOSS ELZ. 317 Winneburgs, to hold it for them. The small village nestles at the foot of the rock, on which it stands. 1. Cochem. — Inns: H. del’Union; Cornreichs; Romischer Konig. The distant view of this ancient town of 2500 inhab., guarded as it were by the 2 picturesque castles aloft upon the hills behind, is most romantic and at- tractive. But let the stranger be satis- fied with admiring it at a distance, since, within, it surpasses in the filth and closeness of its streets all other towns on the Moselle. The Castle at the upper end was an Imperial fortress; in 1689 it held out, together with the town, for a long time against the forces of Louis XIV., but being at last, after 4 separate assaults, taken by storm, the greater portion of the garrison, consist- ing of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many of the citizens, were inhumanly put to the sword, and the houses and castle burnt. This atrocious act was ordered by the French Marshal Boufflers, and executed by his subordinate officer, M. de Grignan, the son-in-law of Madame de Sevigne. The lower castle of Winneburg is lost from yiew as you draw near the town, being situated some way up the glen of the Endertbach. It is the most ancient family seat of the Metternichs; the head of the house at present being the late Austrian prime Minister, Prince Metternich, who has recently repaired it, and fitted it up. The large building seen above the spire of the church, near the lower end of the town of Cochem, was originally a Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 1. Clotten, a small village, with a church on an eminence, in the gap of a valley overlooked by a ruined castle. Monotonous hills intervene for a considerable distance between Clotten and rt. Treis, situated within a little amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a short distance from the river, 2 castles look down: one of them, Wildburg, was won in hard fight by an Archbishop of Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant modern church has been erected at Treis. 1. Carden (Spikerman’s inn, good and clean. N. B. No good inn between this and Coblenz), is a picturesque old village, in one of the most lovely situa- tions on the Moselle. The Church, conspicuous with its 3 towers, was built in the 12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, whose body was buried here, and afterwards removed to Coblenz. The exterior and E. end are in the Romanesque style of architecture. Within, there is a curious antique font, and a representation of the Entomb- ment ; the figures are of stone, as large as life. At the lower end of the town, by the water-side, stands a picturesque castellated building, with projecting turrets, surrounded by a red fringe-like ornament, and surmounted by peaked roofs; but of its history nothing is known. “ Behind it is a Romanesque dwelling-house, of the 12th or 13th cent., free from alterations and inter- polations,which has been unaccountably neglected by draughtsmen and anti- quaries.”— F. P. A road runs from Carden to the very interesting old Castle of Elz, the beau-ideal of a feudal fortress of the middle ages; but the walk to it is still further shortened by landing at the village of I. Miiden, from which it is not more than 2 miles distant. A steep path ascends the hill, behind the vil- lage ; then striking through fields- and orchards to a farm-house, reaches a pretty green meadow, from which the winding vale of the Elz is visible, and out of which peer the singular peaked turrets of its castle, which no traveller should pass without visiting. - The little stream of the Elz, remark- able for its excessive windings almost encircles the tall bold rock on which the castle stands. A narrow isthmus of rock prevents its being an island, but this has been cut through, and over the ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, forming the only approach. The banks of the river are thickly grown over with trees and brushwood; and a second and rival castle, rising opposite to l* 3318 ROUTE 42.—THE MOSELLE, EHRENBERG. ALKEN. Sect. IV. Schloss Elz, and within boW-shot of it, contributes to the beauty of this roman- tic valley. The Castle of Elz is a sin- gularly irregular building, or group of buildings, adapted to the form of the rock on which it stands. The whole pile rises so abruptly from the preci- pitous sides of the rock that its pedes- tal appears scarcely large enough to hold it. The path leading up to the main entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep and slippery. It is the cradle of one of the most ancient and noble families in this part of Germany, and is an almost solitary example of a feudal residence spared by fire, war, and time, and remaining in nearly the same con- dition that it was 2 or 3 centuries ago. It has lately been repaired, and is in- habited. The interior is a labyrinth of passages, turret-stairs, and chambers, many of which are of irregular shapes. Many of the apartments are hung round with family portraits, having the same degree of merit which similar subjects in English country houses usually exhibit. There are curious ornamented fire-places (not stoves), and some rooms are paved with mon- astic-looking tiles, with patterns im- pressed, not coloured. In one room there are a few pieces of armour, and one or two morsels of painted glass. These relics, and old furniture, tapestry, &c., are interesting, as illustrating the mode of life of generations long passed away. The stream of the Elz is seen from the projecting turrets, flowing in its snake-like course in the depth of the wooded gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The rival castle before alluded to, Trutz-Elz, on the opposite rock, was built to defy the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin, Bishop of Treves, who be- sieged them for many months, and cut- ting off, by this counter castle, the approaches to their stronghold, at length compelled them to surrender. They afterwards held this castle also as a fief front-the Bishop, whose vassals they became. ■ About 3 m. higher up the valley stands another castle, Schloss Pyrmont, burnt bv the Swedes in 1641; and near it is a cascade. About 3 m. N. of Elz lies Munster-Maifeld. (Rte. 41.) The Elz falls into the Moselle at Moselkern, about 4 m. below the Cas- tle, but the path down the picturesque valley is very bad, fording the stream, or crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 times in that short distance. The easier way to Moselkern is to cross the hill, or follow the heights along the brink of the glen, which command noble views. 1. Moselkernj (Inn enlarged,) a village at the mouth of the picturesque* vale of Elz. 1. The Castle of liischofsstein was a stronghold belonging to the Arch- bishops of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon tower is girt round with a white streak, and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was built 1270. 1. Hatzenport. Moritz’s Inn. rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the Ehrenbach. The ravine out of which it issues should by all means be explored. At first gloomy and dark, it in a short while opens out, and discloses a lovely valley with green meadows, vineyards, and water-mills closed up in front by a rocky height, on the summit of which, only 2 miles distant from the Moselle, stands the castle of Ehrenberg, towering above the tree tops. It is a splendid monument of old times still in a tolerable state of preservation; as it owes its decay to time and neglect, not to violence. It may be said to surpass in beauty any individual castle on the' Rhine, and is well worth visiting. It now belongs to the family of Von Stein. rt. Aiken, an ancient town, con- nected by a chain of towers with Schloss Thuron, one of the most picturesque castles on the Moselle, on the height above. It has two circular keeps, and the green ivy creeps along its walls. It was built in 1209, and was held in 1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalz- grave Zorn.- Having committed de- predations in theterritory of his neigh- bours, the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he was besieged for 2 years by their combined forces, who, during that time, emptied 3000 butts of wine.Rhenish Prussia. Route 42.—the moselle, cobern. 319 The garrison, having consumed all their provisions, surrendered the castle; but Zorn cut his way through the enemy. 1. The village of Catenes is said to derive its name from a chain (ca- tena) formerly stretched across the river at this point, to arrest boats and com- pel them to pay toll. 1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build- ing at the upper end of this village, by the water-side, is the family man- sion of the Counts Yon der Leyen, another of the oldest and most noble races on the Moselle; which numbers among its members many generals in the Imperial armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and Cologne. The building was repaired in 1814, and has since passed out of the possession of the Von der Leyens. At the lower end of the village stands a gable-faced house, connected with a tall tower of defence, built 1850, and said to have belonged to the Knights Templars. A large quantity of potters’ and pipe clay, obtained from pits 3 m. off, at Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutchmen. It is quite white, and of good quality: it is dug out from be- neath a bed of gravel. 1. Cobern. The heights behind this little town are crowned by 2 ru- ined castles—the lower, or Niederburg, and the Oberburg. Within the en- closure of the upper castle stands the very remarkable Chapel of St. Matthias. The way to it passes the new church, and the house of the pastor, who keeps the keys of the chapel, and will lend them to discreet persons. A steep foot- path strikes up from a mill, through the vineyards, and behind the lower castle, which it leaves on the right. The view from the top is fine, and it takes about 20 minutes to reach it. St. Matthias's Chapel is an elegant little Gothic structure, in the form of a hexagon, supported within upon 6 clusters of columns, each formed of 5 detached marble pillars. The exact date of the'building is uhkiiown, but the style of the architecture is that of the first half of the 13th century, and its founders are supposed to have been Crusaders, who caused it to be erected on their return from the Holy Land. This may account for the somewhat Saracenic aspect of its interior. All the arches' are rounded, except those which support the central tower, which are pointed and slightly horse-shoed; the lower windows are in shape like the ace of clubs. The effect of the interior is extremely light and graceful, and this chapel deserves to be visited by all who interest themselves in archi- tecture. It has (been repaired by the architect von Lassaulx. rt. Diebelich (quasi Diabolich) is famous for witches, who in the mid- dle ages were believed to haunt pecu- liarly this spot, and to hold meetings for midnight revelry on the top of a neighbouring mountain. At the end of the 15th century, a bishop, who had written a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 persons to be burned here for that crime! This is a pretty spot, sur- rounded by orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded banks opposite. 1. Winningen is a Protestant vil- lage, though all around are Popish. A neat modern school-house faces the river. rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the ffost in the Moselle in 1830, this village was buried nearly 30 feet deep in ice, which broke the timber frames work of many of the houses, and en- tirely swept away several ; overspread- ing all the lower vineyards. (See p. 277.) 1. Giils, distinguished by its mo- dern twin spires, is surrounded by or- chards, which furnish cherries and walnuts in large quantities for ex- portation to Holland. A very narrow and dangerous carriage-road has been completed along the rt. bank of the Moselle, from Moselweiss to Niederfell. When improved and extended farther upwards, it will become equally con- ducive to the convenience of the tourist, and to the prosperity of the valley; 1. The spire of the Church -of Metternich is seen above the trees. rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup- p 4320 ROUTE 43.—AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. Sect. TV. posed to be the Vicus Ambitianus of the Romans, and the spot where Agrip- pina gave birth to Caligula. The tower of the church is of great anti- quity, and is mentioned in records of the year 1209. Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications of Fort Alexander, one of the outworks of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle and the Rhine. rt. Coblenz, (p. 277.) Some of the finest scenery on the Moselle may be explored in 2 days, from Coblenz, thus: Take the steamer as far as Alf, and put up at the good inn there (p. 316.) ; proceed thence in a post-chaise to the Baths of Bertrich, 3 m. off, where the Kurhaus affords good quarters : here dine; and if time can be spared, proceed after dinner to the Falkenlei, and return to Alf to sleep. Next morning rise early, and ascend the hill called Prinzenskopf- chen ; then take the descending steamer and return to Coblenz, or, if time will allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive to Schloss Elz, and Munster- Maifeld ; returning to Carden to sleep. Next morning hire a row-boat to Aiken, and walk thence in 2 hours up a side valley to the interesting castle of Ehrenburg, returning in time for the steamer to Coblenz, or proceeding thither by the carriage road down the right bank of the Moselle. A shorter excursion may be made by taking the up steamer as far its Treis, in the morning, returning by the down boat in the afternoon. ROUTE 43. - AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 20 Pruss. m. =93^ Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. The only tolerable sleeping quarters are at Priim, but they are indifferent. This excellent macadamised road was completed in 1836, by the Prussian government, to open a communication along the Belgian frontier; its design seems rather military than commercial. It lies through a country wild and dreary in parts, in others very beau- tiful ; in all most interesting to an English botanist, who will find in the wild heath between Treves and Mont- joie, and in the latter town itself, some of the rarest plants of his own country. The accommodation for travellers is on a very low scale. The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle is carried under the Cologne railway, and past the picturesque, ruined, moated castle Schonforst, near which is a very large lime tree. About 7 m. from Aix is the village of Corneli-Miinster, with 750 inhab. The extensive remains of its ancient convent, founded 815, by Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth manufactory. 2\ Konigsberg. Monijoie (pronounced Mon- schaw), a small town of 3000 inhab., on the Roer, manufactures much cloth. [Bauer’s Inn is the best.] Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was almost en- tirely pulled down 1836. There are slate quarries outside the town. The village of Kaltenherberg (1370 inhab.) lies at the foot of the mountain range called Hohe Veen (Fr. Hautes Fanges, The High Fen). Their highest summit is 2200 ft. above the sea: this is a wild and sterile district, abounding in bogs and marshes. The inhabitants are chiefly Walloons. 2J Biitgenbach {Inn, Poste), a vil- lage of 500 souls. A cross road hence to Spa, by Malmedy (Rte. 44.). This stage lies over a wild dreary track, part heath, part forest, which is burnt -for charcoal, to 2 Losheim, a small village. Its Church contains some relics—the cloth with which our Saviour girt himself, and dried the apostles’ feet — a part of his winding-sheet — fragments of the scull of St. Cornelius !! Near this, a good cross road, on the left, leads from Los- heim to Hilleslieim, in the Eifel (p. 323.). Here begins the chain of hills called Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifel). 2- Priim, — Inn, Goldner Stern, the best sleeping quarters between Aix and Treves, but indifferent. — D, G. Cheap and dirty. Bed, 15 S. gr.; tea, 8 S. gr. ; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small town lies at the S. extremity of the Schneifel, immediately beneath aRhen. Prus. r. 43.—aix-la-chapelle to treves. 321 beautifully wooded hill, and has 2100 inhab. Early in the 17th cent., the Benedictine monks fixed upon this agreeable valley, sheltered by hills, and shrouded in woods, to build a monas- tery, which in the course of time be- came one of the most wealthy near the Rhine. Its abbots had the rank of princes, and their estates lay not only in the immediate neighbourhood, but in Picardy, Zutphen, Gueldres, &c. Arn- heim and St. Goar were possessions of the convent. Charlemagne bestowed large grants upon it: his natural son, Pepin, became a monk here, after in- curring his father’s displeasure by his disobedience. The Empr. Lothaire retired hither, and also took the cowl; he converted his crown into a crucifix, which was preserved down to the time of the French Revolution, when all the property of the monastery was con- fiscated. - A portion of the old convent alone survives, and is now converted into a school. The church near it, in the Italian style, and uninteresting, re- places the magnificent original church of the Abbey Sancti Benedicti ad Pratum (whence the modern name Priim), of which no vestige now re- mains. In the burial-ground, outside the town, a stone cross is planted, on the spot where the high altar stood ; the walls of this edifice were pulled down to furnish materials for rebuilding the houses of the town, after it had been destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur- sion to the Upper Eifel (Rte. 45.). may be made from Priim. There is some difficulty in obtaining a carriage here, except from the postmaster. In 1837 one with 2 horses was hired here for 3 dollars a day; the distance to Gerolstein is about 12m.; the road is practicable only for light carriages. Hereabouts the modern road falls in with the great Roman highway from Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an inscription found at Marmagen,' that Agrippa was the director of this, the greatest work of the Romans in their Rhenish provinces. It was car- ried through a country still wild and unpeopled, but in their days as little trodden as the backwoods of America are now. It appears by the Roman Itinerary, that besides numerous post- houses (mutationes, for changing horses), there were 6 mansiones along this line of road, serving at the same time as military posts, garrisoned with troops ; as hotels, in which the emperors them- selves were accommodated on their journeys; and as stations of relays of horses for couriers : the first of these was at Tobliacum (Zulpich, the spot where Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemanni), the last at Baedse Vicus (Bitburg). Accounts have been pub- lished of a vast subterraneous aqueduct, extending all the way from Cologne to Treves, nearly parallel with the high road ; and it is certain that remains of such a structure are still visible at 10 or 12 different places between the 2 cities. Considering that both these cities were situated on great rivers, well furnished with water, it is difficult to comprehend the use of so extensive a conduit. The writers of the middle ages, indeed, have not scrupled to affirm, that it was intended to convey a stream of wine between them 1 The most probable explanation of it is, that instead of being one continuous water- course, it is nothing more than a num- ber of small unconnected aqueducts built at the same time, and probably with similar materials, to supply dif- ferent stations on the Roman road with water. About 4^ miles beyond Priim is Schonecken, a small village of 1538 inhab. The ruins of the ancient castle stand upon a commanding height. It originally belonged to the family of the Counts of Vianden, who possessed the advowson of the abbey of Priim; it was destroyed by the French in 1802, and sold by them for building mate- rials. 2j Balesfeld. Between this and Bit- burg, the road does not pass a single village; the country is a tract of high land, with a rough climate, and a barren soil, but abounding in woods, and frequently opening into beautiful views. The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, their houses and persons alike slovenly, in proportion as the land r 5322 ROUTE 44. — SPA TO COBLENZ. Sect. IV. they inhabit is wild and remote. They are also ignorant and superstitious ; and not contented with keeping the usual holidays and festivals of the church, almost every village has a patron saint of its own, in whose honour festi- vals are celebrated. Each saint is sup- posed to have a peculiar province, and to preside over some particular Class of diseases. Thus St. Apollonia is in- voked in cases of tooth-ache; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats; St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy; St. Odilia, for sore eyes; St. Lucia, for other complaints; St. Gertrude is engaged to drive away rats; and St. Wendelin is looked upon as the protector of cattle. On their anni- versaries the people flock in crowds to the churches dedicated to these medical saints so rich in remedies, bringing offerings not only of money, but also of butter, eggs, pigs’ heads, &c., which give the church the appearance of a market-place, rather than a place of worship. Upon those days no work is done, and the evening concludes usually in drinking and gambling. 2. Bitburg {Inn, Poste, not good), a town of 1700 inhab., anciently a Ro- man station, Bxdse Vicus. About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within the frontier of Luxemburg, but scarcely accessible by roads, stands Vianden, a castle exceeding in extent almost any on the Rhine, an ancient possession of the house of Nassau, seated on a rock above the river l’Our. It was in good preservation until within a few years, when it was put up for sale, and un- roofed. It has a remarkable chapel in the form of a decagon. 17 m. S. W. of Bitburg is the ancient convent of Echternach, also in Luxemburg. Its Church of St. Willibrod is a basilica of great antiquity: its pillars, decorated with Corinthian capitals, may be relics of some Roman edifice. At Fliessem, about 3 miles from Bitburg, on the road to Priim, and not more than ^ a mile [from the road, is a Roman villa. It contains very perfect and beautiful mosaics, and a liypocaust in excellent preservation, curiously illustrating the mode of heating build- ings and apartments by the Romans. Two Roman mile-stones were dug up in a wood near Bitburg; they stood on the ancient high road, a short distance from the new post-road. They bear the name of the Emperor Hadrian, in whose reign they were set up, and the distance marked upon them was 22,000 paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Between Bitburg. and 1^ Helenenberg there is not a single village ; but traces of the Roman road appear in sight, from time to time. The very beautiful church at Helenen- berg (called also the hospital) is now turned into a barn. Near PalUen, a village whose inhabitants live partly in caves cut out of the rocks, the road is carried over a deep ravine upon a bridge of a single arch, built by Napo- leon (p. 312.) ; and a passage has been hewn for the road itself in the solid rock, for a considerable distance, until it reaches the bank of the Moselle, immediately opposite the city of 2^ Tbeves—see p. 308. The view of Treves in descending is very striking; the traveller should therefore contrive to arrive before dark. ROUTE 44. SPA TO COBLENZ, 20^ Pruss. miles = 93^ Eng. Two easy days by post — to Hilles- heim the 1st day. The engineering and making of the road is very good, and passing through a volcanic country, it is chiefly formed with an excellent material — basalt. Though carried through a hilly country, the road is so well laid out, that 8 miles an hour on an average may be made. The country offers very varied scenery, hill and vale, beech-forests, heaths, corn, and grass- lands. A gradual ascent of nearly 4 miles, shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, leads out of the valley of Spa, passing first the abandoned gaming-house, and afterwards the mineral spring of Sau- veniere, situated in a clump of trees. Beyond this lies a high, level, and bare district of barren heath, resembling Dartmoor. At the village, of Francour-Rhenish Prussia, route 45. — the uppek eifel. 323 champs the road to Malmedy, turning to the left, leaves that to Stavelot, in whose church is preserved the very curious Shrine ( Chasse) of St. Remaele. It is of copper gilt, ornamented with precious stones, mosaics, and statuettes of the Saint, the Virgin, and twelve Apostles, of silver gilt. It is probably a work of the 11th cent. About l£ mile further runs the Prussian frontier, where baggage is slightly examined (§ 47.). A fine view is gained on winding down the steep hill, of red sandstone, from the table land into Malmedy. 2J Malmedy {Inn, Weisses Ross, a humble inn), a small town of 4000 inhab., famous for the manufacture of sole leather for shoes, there being 50 tanneries here in active work. The hides are derived from South America; the Ardennes forest furnishes the best bark; the greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedy and Stavelot, and many of the tanners are very wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and- around the town, chiefly their property, are somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, Montbijou, lies on our road a little way out of the town. The road enters the great highway from Aix to Treves (Rte. 43.), about 8 m. from Malmedy, a little beyond 2 Biitgenbach (Rte. 43.). 2 Losheim, in p. 320. Here a road branches off to the E., passing under the ruined castle Kronenburg, to ] | Stadtkyll. Inn, Post (on the high road from Treves to Cologne): crossing it you reach - 2 Hillesheim. — Inn, Post; com- fortable, with civil people, who make high charges; a curious old town, sur- rounded by walls, from which there are fine views. From a hill near it a fine view is obtained of the Eifel. The country hence to Kellberg and Mayen presents fine forests and patches of beech, and some oak, with hills of volcanic forms in all directions. 3 Kellberg. — Inn, Post. A public carriage runs between the Ahr valley and Kellberg, meeting that between Coblenz and Losheim. Views of the. castle of Nurberg. Through an inte- resting country, passing many dome- topped hills (from whose egg-shape perhaps the district is called Ei-fel (?) and near to the picturesque castle Vir- neberg, to Mayen. See Rte. 41. and 40. on the post-road to 3 j Coblenz. ( Rte. 37.) ROUTE 45. THE UPPER EIFEL PRUM TO GEROLSTEIN, DA UN, AND LUTZERATH. The country of the Eifel Gebirge is particularly interesting to the geolo- gist, from the decided traces of volcanic agency which it exhibits in its lava currents, and numerous extinct craters, many of them now filled with lakes or tarns. Apart from this consideration, the scenery of the Eifel has many fea- tures of no inconsiderable beauty and interest to induce the ordinary traveller to visit it. “ The high ground consti- tuting this tract of country is much diversified with, finely formed emi- nences, which are often conical or crater-shaped, and frequently wooded; the valleys are remarkable sometimes for their bold and rocky sides, frequently capped with old castles, and contracting into narrow glens ; sometimes for their softer or wooded and verdant charac- ter ; above all, the great peculiarity of the district is the secluded, often much concealed, and singular ‘ maars ’ or crater-lakes."— T. T. Meres in En- glish. The region of the Eifel is still the haunt of wolves and wild boars ; the former not unfrequently approach hu- man habitations in the winter, and commit depredations on the flocks. The traveller visiting the Eifel from Aix-la-Chapelle or Spa, will proceed by the roads described in routes 43. or 44. as far as Friim (Rte. 43.). A post- road runs hence to Bonn and Cologne. At Piiim we may turn aside to enter upon the district of the Eifel. The roads throughout it are almost invari- ably bad, especially in wet weather, and the country hilly. p 6324. ROUTE 45. — THE UPPER EIFEL. Sect. IV. Gerolstein, where the tour of the Eifel properly begins, is about 10 m. from Priim. It has a tolerable inn, with good beds, kept by the Burgermeister (Schreiber). It is a picturesque town on the Kyll, in a valley running between cliffs of lime-stone and dolomite, which, more particularly on the north side, often present precipitous and striking escarpments, and peculiarly formed, and sometimes isolated rocky eminences. Above the town are the ruins of a Castle. An interesting excursion, and one that may easily be accomplished in a forenoon, is to start by the footpath leading to the clear carbonated spring at the bottom of the valley, to cross the river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite (to. the north of the town-). On the summit is a perfectly formed dry crater called the Pfaffenkaule. The surface of the hollow is now cultivated, but traces of volcanic action are every where apparent. A little to the west is a stream of lava, which divides into 2 branches, and includes a hollow space termed the Hagelskaule. Near it, to the south, there is a considerable cavern, situated in the cliffs termed the Buchen- loch, formed by one of the numerous fissures in the strata, but probably en- larged by art. Thence the field may be crossed to the Ice grotto of Roth, in order to see which lights and a guide may be procured at a farm-house, and inn near the church of Roth. In this cavern, which is a sort of natural ice- house, ice is always to be found during the summer, but it is said to disappear in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, the road may be varied by crossing the base of the Auberg, where innumerable fossil shells, corals, See. are found strewed over the surface of the fields. Several persons in Gerolstein form collections of them for sale. — T. T. One of the curiosities of the neighbourhood is a mineral spring, called Brudeldreis, op- posite Birresborn, on a hill within the Gerolstein wald. In the summer it dries up ; but if a cupful of water be thrown into the basin of rock from which it issues, a rattling is heard, and ajet of water spirted out. Dead bodies of birds and other small animals are often found near it, destroyed by having alighted within the range of the noxious vapour issuing from it (carbonic acid gas), but it is a fable that birds are killed ip flying over it. Peasants stoop- ing down to drink are repulsed by the suffocating vapour, which being heavier than the air lies along the surface of the water, in a stratum more or less deep as the atmosphere is agitated or calm. The road from Gerolstein to Kirch- weiler (3 miles) passes the Casselburg, a picturesque stronghold, surmounting a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 3 miles farther, is a village built of lava. Near it, to the N. W. is a large basin-shaped crater called Dreiser- Weiher, which, though now a meadow, was evidently at a former period filled with water, and is still remarkable for its numerous mineral springs. Dreis, in the dialect of the Eifel, means a mineral spring. Olivine, a compara- tively rare mineral, is found at the south side of the crater, sometimes in masses 18 inches in diameter, and augite is also met with. Glassy felspar is found at Hohenfels, near this. Some of the highest hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser-Weiher. 5 miles from Dochweiler lies Daun ; where Holzer’s inn is good. The castle was the family residence and the birth- place of the Marshal who led the Aus- trian armies in the Seven Years’ war, and defeated Frederick the Great at Collin. On the summit of a steep ac- clivity near this lie 3 crater lakes, separated from each other by a narrow partition of slaty rock. The principal one, the Gmunden Maar, is very beauti- ful. From Daun, a detour should be made by Stadfeld to Manderscheid, in order to see its old castle and the Meerfelder Maar, another considerable crater-lake in a perfectly circular basin, 100 fathoms deep ; the water does not occupy the whole of it. Close to it rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable for its 4 volcanic cones of slag; 3 of them are perfect; 1 is broken down on the south; from 1 of them a cur- rent of basaltic lava descends into the valley.Rhenish Prussia, route 46.—bingen to treves. 325 Gillenfeld (Burgermaster Zilchen’s Inn), on the road to Liitzerath, passing Hedersdorf, is the next point of in- terest. Here is situated the Pulver- maar, one of the largest and most beautiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 ft. deep. On the way from Gillenfeld to Liitzerath is the village of Strotz- busch, built in the hollow of a crater- lake, and near it there are remains of another crater, formerly perhaps a lake. There is a post road from Liitzerath to Daun, Germ. m.; but it does not pass through Gillenfeld or Strotz- busch ; and from Daun through Doch- weiler to Hillesheim, 2£ Germ. m. Liitzerath is distant from Daun, by the direct road, about 12 English m. We have now entered upon Route 41. ROUTE 46. BINGEN TO TREVES. 16^ Pruss. miles = 76 Eng. miles. Schnellpost daily in 14^ hours. It sets out from the post-house on the 1. bank of the Nahe, close to Bingen bridge. The chief part of this road is excellent, though hilly; it is carried out of the valley of the Nahe by well constructed zig-zags, and at one point, where seats have been erected, com- mands a charming view. There is considerable beauty in the gorge leading down to the village of 1^- Stromberg, with the ruins of Castle Goldenfels, which was bravely defended against the French, 1793, by the Prussian Lieut, v. Gauvain, with 35 men. A monument commemorates the event. 3 Simmern. (Inn Post.) We follow the line of the old Ro- man road as far as Kirchberg. 2| Buchenbeuern. From this to Berncastel the road is very hilly, run- ning over the high table-land of the Hundsriick (Dog’s Back) which ex- tends between the Rhine, Moselle, and Nahe. For a considerable distance neither house nor human being is to be seen. The country is a bleak uncul- tivated waste of moor and moss, with forest interspersed. Here and there a distant view over hills and valleys ap- pears. We again follow the line of the old Roman road, called in the country Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen a small truncated tower (Stumpfe Thurm), said to be(?) a Roman work. It is supposed, indeed, that the Ro- man station Belginum, or Taberns, may have stood upon this spot. A little farther on, the road descends through a narrow and winding ravine (the Tiefenbach-thal), whose sides, formed of ragged slate rocks, are ex- ceedingly picturesque, in many places overhanging the road, and sprinkled over with trees and underwood. Con- siderable mines have be.e n driven into these rocks, and roofing slate is ob- tained from them. Many of the en- trances to them open close upon the road side. At the bottom of this steep descent lies 3j Berncastel, on the Moselle. — Inn, Three Kings. Page 314. The Moselle is here passed by a ferry-boat; a good road leads to 35- Hetzerath, on the high road from Coblenz to Treves. 2f Treves. At page 308. ROUTE 47. COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT, A. M., BY SIEBURG AND LIMBURG. 23J Germ. m. =105 Eng. m. A macadamised post road, 1^ Germ, m. shorter than that by Coblenz. In wet or foggy weather it is preferable to that by the Rhine: no inn between Siegburg and Limburg. Schnellpost daily in 23 hrs. 3^ Siegburg (Inn, Star, tolerable), a town of 2500 inhab., on the Sieg, about 4 m. above its junction with the Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael, in a singularly beautiful situation, im- mediately overhanging the town, stands the ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded in 1060 by Archbishop Hanno, who is buried within the fine Church. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. A new road326 ROUTE 47.—- COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT. Sect. IY. runs to Bonn, crossing the Sieg by a ferry some way below Siegburg, and the Rhine by the flying bridge. 2 Uckerath. Weyerbusch. 1 A'ltenkirchen. Here the brave French General Marceau (the Bayard of the republic) received his death wound in an action with the Austrians under the Archduke Charles. 1 Wahlerod or Wahlroth, the first station in the territory of Nassau. 2 Freilingen. *1 Country high and 2 Wallmeroth. J woody (the skirt of the Westerwald) as you approach the Lahn. 2 Limburg (Inn, Post), in Rte. 96. Nieder-Selters, whence the celebrated water is obtained, is passed on this stage; it is described under the head Schwalbach, in Rte. 95. 3 Wiirges, 3 Konigstein, Rte. 97. 2£ Frankfukt a. m., Rte. 95.327 SECTION V. PRUSSIA, continued_MECKLENBURG_ HANOVER — BRUNS-. WICK —HESSE CASSEL —THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. ROUTE PAGE 56. London to Hamburg - 327 57. Hamburg to L'ubech and Tra- vemiinde - - 333 58. Hamburg to Stralsund, and Riigen, by Schwerin, Dob- beran, and Rostock - 337 53. Hamburg to Hanover, Bruns- wick, or Hildesheim, Rail. 338 60. Hamburg to Bremen and Oldenburg - - 339 61. Hamburg to Berlin, Rail. - 339 62. Berlin to Magdeburg, by Fotzdum and Brandenburg, Rail. - - 357 63. Berlin to Leipzig, by Written- burg, Kothen, Halle, Worlitz, and Dessau, Rail. - 361 64. Magdeburg to Leipzig by Ko- tlien, Rail. - - 365 65. Berlin to Dresden, Rail. - 366 66. Cologne to Berlin, by Min- den, Hanover, Brunswick, and Magdeburg, Rail. - 366 ROUTE PAGE 67. Dusseldorf to Berlin, by El- berfeld, Cassel,Eisleben, and Halle - - - 373 68. Cologne, by Paderborn, to Brunswick - 376 69. Diisseldorf to Bremen, by Munster - - - 378 69 a. Paderborn to Hanover - 382 70. Frankfort-A.-M. to Cassel - 383 71. Cassel to Hanover, by Pyr- mont - 388 72. Cassel to Hanover, by Got- tingen - -. - 391 72 a. Hanover.to Bremen, Rail. 393 73. The Hartz.— Gottingen to Clausthal; Goslar, the Broc- ken, the Rosstrappe, the Valley of the Bode, and Alexisbad - - 393 74. The Hartz. — Nordhausen to Magdeburg - - 401 74 a. Descent of the Weser. — Cassel to Bremen - 403 ROUTE 56. LONDON TO HAMBURG. Steam-boats start from London and from Hamburg, Wednesday and Sa- turday mornings: they set off so early in the morning that it is advisable to sleep on board the night before. The average passage is about 52 hours, though it sometimes takes 60 or 70. About 25 miles from the mouth of the Elbe lies the island of Heligoland (Holyland), so named.from the Temple of Hertha (Earth), the goddess wor^ shipped by the ancient Saxons, which stood on it. It was ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and some fortifications are raised on it. Its population amounts to 3,000. At the time when Napoleon had excluded England from the con- tinent, it was important as a war-sta- tion; and from its situation near the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, it then became a considerable smug- gling depot. Its male inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, sailors, and pilots. The destruction of its shores by the sea has been much exaggerated. It328 ROUTE 56.—CUXHAVEN. AUTONA. HAMBURG. Sect. Y. has been recently shown that the well- known map of Heligoland, by Meyer, according to which the island contained 9 parishes, is entirely a work of ima- gination. On comparing a map made in 1793 by the Danish engineer, Wes- sel, with the measurements of M. Wiebel, recently made, it appeared that the whole circumference wasted on an average 3 ft. in a century. It appears also that in the time of Adam of Bre- men, whose description is extant, and of Charlemagne, the island was only a little larger than at present. Sqe Geol. Journal, No. 14. 1. At the mouth of the Elbe stand the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven, on a small angle of territory belonging to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off this place waiting for favourable winds. It is a watering-place frequented by the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea- bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is frozen over, it is necessary to proceed from Hamburg by land to meet the steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to Haarburg, and descending its 1. bank. Beyond Cuxhaven, the left bank of the Elbe belongs to Hanover. Op- posite to Stade, an Hanoverian sloop of war is stationed to enforce the toll levied by Hanover in virtue of an ancient imperial grant on vessels and cargoes passing up the Elbe. The land on the rt. bapk is the territory of the Duchy of Holstein, belonging to Denmark; it rises in gentle slopes, covered, for some dis- tance below Hamburg, with wood, interspersed with handsome villas and gardens belonging to opulent merchants. On this side lies the small town of Gliickstadt, with G000 inhab., now connected with Altona by Railway. Higher up the little fishing village of Blankenese, with its houses scattered along the slope and among the trees one above another, is passed ; and above it, the town of rt. Altona, which joins Hamburg, and from the river seems to form a part of it, though within the Danish terri- tory. It has risen to great mercantile prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of its neighbour, so that the Hamburghers say that its name agrees with its situa- tion, as it is All-zu-nah (All too near). In commercial respects it is a perfectly free town, — no duties being levied, and the custom-house line for Holstein runs outside of it. It is the most commer- cial attd populous town in Denmark next to Copenhagen, having 27,000 inhab. A Railroad runs from Altona to Kiel on the Baltic. (See Hand- book for N. Europe, Denmark, &c.) A handsome new Quay has been constructed at Hamburg along the Elbe, and the harbour has been deep- ened, but passengers by sea-going steamers usually embark and disembark in boats to and from the vessel., rt. Hamburg.—Inns: Streit’s hotel, very comfortable, the best; the land- lady is English; Hotel St. Petersburg, well situated at the corner of the Jung- fernstieg and the Alster Arcades. Hotel de Russie; Kronprinz; Victoria Hotel; Alster Hotel; Hotel de 1* Europe. These are on the old and new Jungfernstiegand the Alsterdamm. Charges: bed and dinner 24 sell. each, breakfast 12 sch., £ a bottle of wine ] 6 sch. Hamburg is situated about 80 m. from the mouth of the Elbe, at the junction of a small stream called the Alster, with the Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties levied are so small that travellers are not bothered with any Custom-house examination on landing; but passports are sopietimes demanded. Its population is reckoned at 145,000. There are about 10,000 Jews. The Current Coins are — The Mark Courant Double Mark Pieces of 8 Schillings ---------4 Sch. 1 Sch. (copper) nearly Rix dollar (specie) Mark Banco (imaginary) English. Fruss. s. A. Sgr. = 1 2}=12± = 2 5 = 0 7 = 0 3£ = 0 1 = 4 7 = 1 5| = 15 Most of these coins are so much worn, that care is required in taking them : even the natives are sometimes puzzled1 S?Peter............E e 2 Si Nicholas........E d 3 Si Michael-____.___C d 4 Bars e-Exchange...H d 5 SlCatheriiie........E d 6 SiJacobi.......... F c 7 Joharmeum._______E d 8 Roding s Museum....F d 9 Stadthaus........ B d 10 Great Hospital—....G a 11 Oip/um. Asylum ...D e 12 Elopstocks house.— D c 13 Theatre... .... 1) b 14 Thalia Theatre....E c 15 Elbe BavilioJh....B e 16 New Tost Office.... D c 17 Engl. Episcopal Ch. C e \jl8 Elbhohe--...........B e j\ubUc Cartel01 B i NNEX_ AlSTER 4)bser -j i 18 Elbkahe of the St I Or. G. Grosse, Great I M.Mxrkt,Market g S.St. Strasse, Street ' Th.TTier, Gate Published bg John Murtxiy Albemarle Street London 1849. Engraved "by J. & C.Walkser.Prussia. ROUTE 56.--HAMBURG. 329 to know what they are. Many of them are valueless out of Hamburg. The landlords at the hotels will gener- ally change English money. The regular money-changers are very ex- tortionate. The English sovereign usually realises 17 marks 4 sell., and is sometimes taken in payment for 17 m. 8 sch. Money accounts are kept in marks and schillings; there are 16 schillings in a mark. The marc banco and rix dollar banco are imaginary coins. The mark banco is to the current mark as 20 to 16. The piece of ij dollar Kas- sengeld is the most common, and is worth 31 schillings currency. There are also pieces of 2 schillings, ^ Sch. (called a Sechsling), £ sch ( Dreiling). The Pruss. dollar goes for 40 sch. 1 Danish mark = 5 schillings. Piece of 8 Rigsbank skillings = 2^ sch. Hamburg is one of the four remain- ing Free towns, and is chiefly remark- able as the first trading sea-port of Germany. It is intersected by canals, Called Fleethen (Fleet ditches?), and in this respect, in the antiquated ap- pearance of its houses, and in the trees growing in its streets, bears a resem- blance, in the old part of the town, to the towns of Holland. During the last 4 years, on an average 4000 vessels entered. The Elbe is navigable thus far for ships of considerable burden, which can enter the harbour and trans- fer their cargoes in barges to the mer- chants’ doors, whose warehouses and dwellings generally adjoin. There are no docks. Much banking and funding business is done here ; besides which it is the depot for a large part of the exports and imports of the North of Europe. The sugar refineries have diminished of late. By the dreadful fire of 1842 Ham- burg sustained a calamity unequalled in extent except by the fire of London. The conflagration broke out in the Deiclistrasse, near the Elbe, on Thurs- day, May 5., from what cause is un- known, and raged until the following Sunday in spite of all efFo/ts to oppose it; widening as it advanced until it had involved in destruction 2 sides of the Alster Basin, levelling almost all the buildings, public and private, over an area of many acres, nearly in the form of a triangle, sweeping down 1749 houses, 61 streets, besides courts and alleys, and even crossing the broad canal of the Alster. The attempts made to arrest the flames when the en- gines had proved useless, were, first, to pull down the houses, but in unroofing them the timbers and rafters were laid open, and more readily caught fire from the sparks lodging in them. Artillery was next employed to batter them down, but the balls only made holes in the walls, and passed through. Finally, the plan of blowing them up with gun- powder was resorted to; and this use- ful but dangerous task was executed by the English engineer Lindley, who, for- tunately for the town, was'present at the time and understood the proper mode of proceeding. The first check was given to the fire by blowing up the Rathhaus and Bank, in whose cellars were deposited a vast treasure in silver bars. The churches of St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and St. Gertrude were speedily consumed; the New Exchange, though surrounded by the flames, escaped almost by a miracle uninjured. The sympathy caused by this event in all parts of the globe was proved by the voluntary subscriptions raised for the sufferers, amounting to near 400,000/., of which England contributed 41,000/. Besides this immense sums were raised by loan, so that Hamburg has now the largest national debt, in proportion to its po- pulation, of any continental state, and is in this respect nearly on a par with Great Britain. Hamburg has profited to a certain extent by the calamity in the improve- ments introduced in laying out the new buildings, the widening of streets, the construction of sewers, and the filling up of some of the stagnant fleeths or ditches. These improvements were planned and conducted by Mr. Lindley. A new and handsome Rathhaus is to be built on one side)jf a new square front- ing the Borse. The finest of the new buildings are near the Alster. Many of them are of vast extent, and have330 ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. Sect. V. been constructed at an enormous cost. The foundations are mostly of granite —the superstructure of brick and stucco. The designs show great variety and sometimes beauty. ■ The arcade open- ing out of the Jungfernstieg is deserving of attention for its extent and beauty. Other improvements consist in conduct- ing the drains to the Elbe without al- lowing them to enter the canals, and in causing the water of the Alster basin to flow through the town canals, and in the conversion into a new quarter of the town of a low marshy tract on the rt. bank of the Elbe Called Hammer- brook. It has been intersected by ca- nals, the water pumped out by a steam- engine— the surface raised 4 ft. over a space of an English square m. by the rubbish arising from the fire; thus turning to account [what would other- wise have been an encumbrance; and the whole is being covered with streets and warehouses. The objects chiefly calculated to at- tract a stranger’s attention are, first, the Costumes seen in the streets of Ham- burg ; they are not a little singular. Servant girls, housemaids, and cooks, according to the custom of the place, rarely appear in public except in the gayest attire ; with lace caps, long kid gloves, and a splendid shawl. The last article is elegantly arranged under the arm, so as to conceal a basket shaped like a child’s coffin, containing clothes, butter or cheese, or other articles pur- chased at market, as the case may be. The peasants who frequent the market wear a very picturesque attire; they are chiefly natives of a part of the Hamburg territory bordering on the Elbe, called Vierland, which is principally laid out in gardens, and supplies the market with vegetables. The costume of some of the other peasant women of the neighbourhood is likewise picturesque: they are distinguished by a small cap at the back of the head, covered with gold or silver embroidery, and a gaily decorated boddice. Funeral processions in Hamburg are not composed of friends of the deceased, but of hired mourners, called Reiten keener, dressed in black, with plaited ruffs round their necks, curled and pow- dered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, and swords. The same persons, whose num- ber is limited to 16, attend at marriage festivals, and form also a sort of body- guard to the magistrates. Their situ- ations were formerly purchased at a high price, in consideration of the per- quisites and fees attached to them. Upon the death of a burgomaster or other personage of importance in the town, the town trumpeter, a civic offi- cer, is set to blow a dirge from one of the steeples. The churches have little architectural beauty. St. Nicholas, however, with a tower at the W. end, of openwork, will be a beautiful building. It is designed by the English architect Scott, who built Camberwell Ch. St. Peter's has been rebuilt, and is a fine lofty church. St. Michael’s has one of the loftiest steeples in Europe, 456 feet high, about 100 feet higher than St. Paul’s in London (340 ft.), from which the town and the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, Holstein on the N., and Hanover on the S., present themselves advantageously to view. It is also the station of the fire-watch (§ 43.). The Borse (Exchange), a fine build- ing on the Adolphs Platz, is well de- signed. It forms a noble hall 48 paces by 26, exclusive of the surrounding co- lonade. On the first floor are reading rooms, offices, &c., corresponding with Lloyd’s in London, and called the Bor- senhalle. A stranger can be introduced to read the papers. It is also the seat of the Commercium, or Board of Trade, of the Chamber of Commerce (Han- delsgericht), presided over by 2 lawyers and 9 merchants, as judges. Change commences at 1 o’clock, and it is worth while to see the crowd that comes throng- ing in at that hour. At this time the smartest and prettiest of the Vierlander flower girls may be seen about the Borse. The Schulgebaude, erected 1834 on the site of the ancient Dom, includes the Johanneum, a college under the care of excellent professors, where a good classical and commercial education is given for 120 marks per annum. Thej'Prussia. ROUTE 56. -^-HAMBURG. 331 Town Library, consisting of about 200,000 vols. and many curious MSS., has been removed to this building.- The charitable institutions of Ham- burg are on a very munificent scale. The Orphan Asylum (Waisenhaus) pro- vides for 600 children, who are1 received as infants, reared, educated, and bound appentices to some useful trade.- The Great Hospital (Krankenhaus), in. the suburb of St. George, is capable of containing from 4000 to 5000 sick. The yearly cost of supporting this admirable institution is nearly 17,0001. Its utility is not confined to the poor alone, as even persons of the higher classes resort to the hospital to avail themselves of the advantages of the excellent medical treatment which they may here obtain. Such patients are admitted as lodgers, on payment of a sum varying from 8d. to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a painting by Overbeck (a living artist)* Christ on the Mount of Olives. The House in which Klcipstock the poet lived 30 years (1774-—1803), and died, is No. 27. in the Konigstrasse; Some of the merchants possess: a few good pictures, but there are no collec- tions of much consequence here. Reeding-s Museum is a collection of odds and ends, with some real curiosi- ties, where half an hour may be spent when there is nothing better to do. - - The old and new Jungfernstieg (Mai- den’s Walk) and the Alsterdairim are broad walks around the sides of a basin of water formed by damming up the small river Alster. Here is the fash- ionable promenade, especially resorted to in the summer evenings, when the surface of the water is covered with gaily painted boats filled with water parties. It is flanked on 3 sides by handsome rows' of new houses, and has a broad terrace all round its mar- gin; At the water-side are the two most frequented cafes in the town* called Pavilions. There are floating baths on the Alster. The Stadt Theater is one of the largest in Germany, and the perform- ances and music generally very good. The play begins at 6% and usually ends before 1 Or The Thalia Theatre, Pferde Market, is chiefly famed for comic pieces, and is a popular resort. The public ball rooms in arid about the town, though not frequented by the most respectable classes, being often the resort of low company, deserve to be looked at as one of the peculiarities of the place. The best are the Elbe Pavilion, and the Schweitzer Pavilion. Public Amusements in Hamburg and the neighbourhood are advertised in the daily papers taken in at all the hotels and cafes. The Hamburg hung beef is cele- brated. Hamburg had once the misfortune to be a fortified town, and in conse- quence was subjected to the horrors of a siege from the French, and was twice occupied by their armies, who, under Davoust, in 1813, exercised the most cruel severities and atrocities upon the inhabitants ; many hundreds of whom, inen, wom&n, ahd children, were driven out Of the town to perish; The Ramparts no longer exist, beirig levelled and converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, which extend nearly round the town, and between the two Alster basins. The most pleasing view of the town and river, the shipping and opposite shore of the Elbe, presents itself from the eminence, at the extremity of these walks nearest to Altona, called the Elbhohe, or Stintfang. The picturesque part of the city runs eastward from the harbour. The weighing-house and many of the brick- nogging tumble-down old buildings, along the waterside and the adjoining canals, offer admirable subjects for the pencil. In the morning these canals are crowded with the Vierlanders, in their picturesque costume, and boats laden with vegetables, fruit, &c. There is also a picturesque old church in this neighbourhood, most rich in colour* and quaint in outline. About this part of the town a large portion of the poorer inhabitants live in cellars under the houses. In winter* and after a prevalence of west winds; which drive the waters of the German332 ROUTE 56.--HAMBURG. Sect. V. ocean into the mouth of the Elbe,'the tides rise to a great height (sometimes 20 fit.) inundating all the streets near the river. The tenants of these cellars are then driven from their habitations by the water, which keeps possession of them for days, leaving them filled with ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition from the moisture. The upper part of the house is let under condition that the occupiers of the cellars are to re- ceive shelter at such seasons of cala- mity. Outside the Damm Gate, not far from the Jungfernstieg, is the public Cemetery, which deserves a visit, as ex- hibiting the customs and usages of Germany with regard to the resting- place of the dead. (§ 45.) The merchants of Hamburg are ce- lebrated for their hospitality and the goodness of their dinners, as all stran- gers can testify who are well introduced. It is customary to give vails to ser- vants in private houses; — they expect at least two marks from each visitor. The English residents here are very numerous, and their language is almost universally understood even by the Ger- mans. They have recently erected, with partial aid from the British Go- vernment, a Church for themselves. A British charge d’affaires and consul general and vice-consul reside here. Reading Rooms — At Perthes, Besser, and Maukes, 12. Jungfernstieg, more than 150 newspapers and journals are taken in. Entrance for a week, 1 mark. The best shops are upon the S. side of the Jungfernstieg, and the adjoining street Neuer Wall. Post Office. — Many foreign states have separate post-offices at Ham- burg. The City post, the Thurn and Taxis, and Hanoverian post-offices, are in a large building with a lofty tower, on which the telegraph is placed, in the Post-strasse ; the Prussian, is in the Gansemarkt; the Danish and Mecklenburg, in the grosse Bleichen; and the Norwegian and Swedish in the Grosse Theater-strasse. The City post is the office for letters to and from England. Consuls.—All the states of the new and old world are represented here. The British and most of the other Consulate Offices, are near the har- bour. Travellers not already pro- vided with a vise to their passports for the countries they intend to visit had better procure them here. Hackney-coaches, called Eroskies, ply for hire in all the principal tho- roughfares of the town. They are good and cheap. Any distance within the town costs about 8d., and if hired by the hour the charge is Is. 6d. The gates of Hamburg are shut every evening at dusk, and a toll, in- creasing progressively every hour till 12, is demanded, after which persons may pass and repass all through the night, upon payment of 1 mark each. All eatables brought into the town are taxed at the gates, and even private carriages are sometimes searched, and game found in them has been seized. Omnibuses ply through the town in various directions, to Altona and Rain- It is a very pleasant drive to descend the right bank of the Elbe from Altona to Blankenese. The slopes bordering on the river are stud- ded with country seats of merchants, and possess considerable natural beauty. Between Hamburg and Altona runs a narrow strip of about half a mile, called Hamburgerburg, occupied by low ta- verns and dancing-rooms; in fact, a sort of Wapping, extending to the gate of Altona, where the uniform of the sentinel and the Danish coat of arms mark the frontier of Holstein. At the further end of Altona is the suburb of Ottonsen, where the brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 1806, from the wound he had received in the battle of Jena. In the churchyard, by the side of the road, and under an umbrageous elm, is The Tomb of Klopstock, author of the “ Messiah.” Here is also a monument to the 1138 Hamburgers, who perished in 1813—14, during the siege and occupation of Hamburg by the French, and are interred here in one common grave: — the subject of a pretty poem by Ruckert. Further on is Rainville's Tavern and garden, over- ville’s garden. Environs. -Prussia. ROUTE 57.-HAMBURG TO LUBECK. 333 looking the Elbe. The house itself was inhabited successively by Dumou- rier and Bourrienne. The view is fine, the cuisine very tolerable, and in fine summer afternoons very respectable company repair hither to dine or take coffee. Booth's Nursery Gardens, near Wandsbeck, contain many choice and rare flowers. The amateur of horti- culture will do wisely in purchasing seeds of stocks, wall-flowers, &c., which are brought to singular perfection here. At Blankenese, about 6 miles from Hamburg, Mr. Bauer's Vleasure Grounds, laid out in the Dutch taste, thrown open to the public on Thursdays and Sundays, are a com- mon resort of the cockneys of Ham- burg. In an opposite direction, about 3 m. N.E. from Hamburg, lies the Holstein village of Wandsbeck, in a very pretty situ- ation. Every Sunday and holiday it over- flows with visitors from Hamburg of all classes, who repair hither to walk in the gardens of the Schloss, and enjoy the amusements of waltzing and music. Tycho Brahe the astronomer lived in the chateau, and Voss the poet also re- sided here. Steam-boats across the Elbe to Haar- burg 8 times a day. (Rte. 59.) To Amsterdam every 5 days, in 30 or 40 hours ;—to London, Tuesday and Fri- day at night: in winter, they start from Cuxhaven; — to Hull, 4 times a week, average passage 42 hours; to Havre, once a week in 50 or 60 hours; to Cuxhaven, 4 times a week, in 6 or 8 hours ; — to Heligoland, and up the Elbe to Magdeburg, daily. Schnellposts daily to Bremen — to Liibeck twice a-day. Railroads to Berlin (Route 61.); —to Kiel (from Altona). ( See Hand- book of Northern Europe); — to Ha- nover (Rte. 59.). Care should be taken to allow plenty of time for reach- ing the station of the Kiel railway, which is] a considerable distance from Hamburg, and the droskies are very slow and uncertain conveyances. Tra- vellers are conveyed by steamer to the station at Harburg for the Hanover line. ROUTE 57. HAMBURG TO LUBECK AND TRAVEMUNDF. by Schoenberg 8 Germ. = 38^ Eng. miles; by Oldeslohe 9^ Germ. = 46 Eng. miles. Schnellpost, by Oldeslohe, twice a day, 6 hours. This road, down to 1840 a disgrace to a civilised country, is now good, and macadamised ;• but it makes a considerable detour through Oldeslohe. It lies through a pleasant and fertile country. The territory of Hamburg ends at Wandsbeck. In the churchyard is the grave of Claudius. 3 Ahrensburg in Holstein. 3 Oldeslohe on the Trave : salt- works. A kind of long cart, called Stuhl- wagen, is much used in this country upon the sandy cross roads. The body is made of wicker-work, so that it bends and yields to the ups and downs of the road. The seats are suspended across it, but as it is not hung on springs, the jolting is intolerable, and the best plan is to fill the bottom with hay, upon which the traveller may re- cline more at his ease. The territory belonging to Liibeck begins about 6 m. from its walls: it is limited, comprehending altogether 36,000 inhab., and is bounded by Hol- stein, Lauenberg, and Mecklenburg. 3£ Lubeck.—Inns, Stadt Hamburg; very good:—bed, 1 mark 8 schillings; breakfast, 12 schill. ; dinner, with bottle of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12 sch. ; H. du Nord, also very good : — table d’hote at 3 o’clock, 1 mark 8 sch.; Fiinf Thiirme (5 towers); Stacft Lon- don. Money. Accounts are kept in marks courant and schillings as at Hamburg, except banking accounts, which are in marks banco. The small current coin is as much worn as at Hamburg, and is valueless out of Liibeck. The Free Hanse town of Lubeck is built on a ridge between the rivers Trave and Wackenitz, which entirely surround its walls, and has a population of 25,600 souls; including its surround-334 BOUTE 57.—> LUBECK. THE DOM. Sect. V. ing territory, -47,000. Lubeck was built by the Emperor Conrad, a. d. 1066. It was repeatedly destroyed by the Danes. In the commencement of the 13th cent, it was declared a free imperial city by the Emp. Frederick II. At a later period it entered into, and subsequently became the most con- siderable of the towns forming, the Hanseatic League, and as such de- served the name f the Carthage of the North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 to 1669, Lubeck maintained that pro- minent position, the seat of the govern- ment of the Confederation, the re- pository of its archives, and the station of its fleet, to the command of which she was entitled to appoint one of her own citizens. From the dissolution of the League, however, her importance diminished, and her commerce decayed, until she dwindled into the existing state of insignificance, from which she is not likely soon to emerge, and which is at once made evident to the stranger, by the deserted and grass-grown streets, and the numerous empty houses. After the fatal defeat of Jena (1806), Blucher, retreating with the wreck of the Prussian army, and hotly pursued by 3 French generals, Bernadotte, Soult, and Murat, threw himself into this unfortunate town, in spite of the remonstrances of its senate and citi- zens, and thereby involved it in his own ruin. A bloody engagement com- menced outside the walls, but continued through the streets, and ended in the expulsion of the Prussians, and in the sacking and pillage of Lubeck for 3 days. The French army of 75,000 men was long quartered upon the town, to complete its ruin and misery. It is an interesting town, prettily situated. Its haven, enlivened by ship- ping, is bounded on one side by the quay and its picturesque or grotesque old houses and magazines, and on the other side by the lofty Ramparts, pro- bably some of the largest mounds of earth that were ever made; planted with avenues, and laid out with walks and drives, from which the eye looks down on the water and shipping. Lubeck is one of the most picturesque old towns in Germany, and deserves more attention than is usually given to it by travellers. In external appear- ance, its buildings have undergone little change since the 15th century. Its houses, distinguished by their quaint gables, and often by the splendour of their architecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic churches, and its venerable Rathhaus, all speak of the period of its prosperity as an imperial free city. Principal Buildings :—- The Pom or Cathedral at the S. end of the town (begun 1170, and finished, after inter- ruptions, 1341), contains, in its side chapels, the monuments of many of the patrician families of Lubeck, and, in the choir, the tombs of numerous bishops and canons. The screen of the choir is perhaps one of the finest existing specimens of wood carving of the early German school, about the period of Lucas Cranach. The figures are the size of life, full of expression, and ad- mirably executed. But the finest work of art in Lubeck is in one of the cha- pels in the N. aisle. It is an altar- piece with wings/covered with a double set of shutters. Outside the outer pair the Annunciation is represented in gri- saille. The drawing is more free and graceful in this than in the coloured pictures. The first pair of shutters being opened, St. Blaize, St. John, St. Jerome, and St. Aigidius are seen-— noble and grave figures, betraying some timidity in drawing, but with heads full of character and individuality. These figures are executed in the most finished manner, and with the richest colours. When the second pair of shutters is opened, the Pictures of the Passion are seen in 3 compartments, each having a principal subject ; but Memling, as was usual with the early masters, both German and Italian, has introduced, in no less than 23 distinct groups placed in the background, many of the events previous and accessory to the principal event set forth. The main group on the shutter on the left hand of the spec- tator represents Christ bearing his Cross, and the preceding events begin- ning with the agony in the garden, are depicted in the background. In thePrussia. ROUTE.57. —-HAMBURa TO LUBECK. 335 centre is the Crucifixion ; and on the other shutter on the right are two groups nearly equally important, the Entombment and the Resurrection; the subsequent events until the Ascension being seen in the background. The figure of our Saviour in these compo- sitions is, as usual, somewhat of a failure; but in the other figures may' be seen heads finely drawn and full of character. Observe the affecting scene of the En- tombment, and the heaviness of the corpse round which the shroud is most gracefully arranged: also the beauty of some of the landscape backgrounds. Considering the period at which this work was painted, 1471, it is a marvel of art. It is wonderful for composition, expression, colour, and finish. The pic- ture is only dated and not signed, but there can be. no doubt of its being one of the finest works of Memling. ' It is in the finest state, and was carefully washed and revarnished in 1845. It escaped a journey to Paris by being concealed in the roof of the Cathedral. The stone pulpit, with panels of ala- baster (1568), and brass font (1455), are both of excellent workmanship. According to a tradition, this church is built on the spot where Henry the Lion, while engaged in the chase, fell in with a stag having a cross growing between its horns, and a collar of jewels around its neck, with the produce of which the first church here was built. The! legend is commemorated in two rude frescoes on the S. side of the nave. Among other curiosities is the bronze effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, which adorns his monument, and a richly engraved brass, of 2 bishops who died 1317 and 1330. Observe likewise here the circular vaulting in the nave and cross, underpinned and pointed; pews, cloister and hall, the N. porch, and the roodloft. The Mdrienkirche is a lofty church, date 1300, of elegant pointed Gothic, and entirely of brick, even to the reeded pillars, which are of moulded brick. The architecture and orna- ments of the interior are even more interesting than at the Cathedral. The objects to be noticed in it are the Chapel at the E. end, resembling Becket’s Crown at Canterbury ; a handsome brass screen all round the choir; a Dance of Death, dated 1463, curious for the costumes of the period represented in it, as well as for its being painted 35 years before the time of Holbein; the organ and carved wood- work of the Burgomasters’ seats; the beautiful and highly antique brass font and .sacrament pans; a chapel on the S. side; and the painted glass of the windows, said to be by an Italian ar- tist, Fr. Livi, who afterwards (1436) furnished those for the Duomo in Flo- rence. They have riot long been in this church, having been formerly in the Burgerkirche, which has been pulled down. They are very inferior to the windows at Florence. At the W. end is an enclosed space formed by closing the W- door, where are deposited se- veral curious old paintings: one at- tributed to Wohlgemuth -— perhaps correctly ; another is an altar-piece with double shutters. On the first pair being opened 4 paintings are seen, said to be (but erroneously, no doubt) by A. Durer. Inside the second pair of shutters, and in the centre, are ela- borate carvings in wood of figures and Gothic tracery,-r-all gilt. except the flesh,— representing events from the Gospel history: it resembles a Spanish retablo, and is curious. The lion of the valets de place is a clock, behind the high altar, constructed in 1405, which sends forth at noon figures of the 7 Electors, who march in review before the statue of the Emperor: each as it passes makes a reverential obeisance, and then disappears. Overbeck is a native of Liibeck, and two of his most esteemed pictures are in this church— Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, painted in 1824; and an Entombment, in 1845. The Heiligengeist Spital, a hospital of the 15th century, has a singular but pretty W. front, and vorhalle or ante-chapel. The Katharinen Kirche, though now a gallery, retains many altars and or- naments untouched, a good rood and old paintings. The Crypt, unusually lofty, and above ground, is laid open. The architect should visit the Jacobs336 ROUTE 57. — LUBECK. THE RATTTfTATTS- Sect. y. and Egidi Kirchen (with the ruined Kloster). The Gothic Rathhaus, close to the Marienkirche, was built between 1442 and 1517, but has suffered much from recent repairs. It presents its finest front to the market-place. The street entrance is by a vestibule of very neat and elegant design. The bronze figures on the door are very curious; upstairs is a gallery with good elliptic vaulting. Within its walls in ancient times the deputies from 85 cities of Germany, who composed the Hanseatic League, held their deliberations. Here were concerted those wise measures which raised the confederation from humble beginnings to a height of power and wealth, which not only enabled it to establish factories in all the great cities of Europe, including Bergen, Novgo- rod, Bruges, and London, but obtained for it the supremacy of the ocean, enabling it to wage successful war against neighbouring states, with an army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose powerful monarchs and form treaties with great kingdoms. The beautiful Hall of the Hansa, in which this coun- cil met, is divided into small rooms, and the Rathskeller, dating from 1443, is modernised by the Restaurateur who occupies it. The senate of the town now assemble in the lower story. The presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the title of “ your Magnificence,” the learned Senators are addressed “ high wise,” and the merchant Senators “ well wise Sirs.” In the Market-place is a stone, upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Liibeck, was beheaded for running away from the Danish fleet. Sir Godfrey Kneller and the bro- thers Adrian and Isaac van Ostade were born here; their houses are still pointed out, as well as that in which Count Struensee lived, near the Cathedral. The stranger should not omit to ob- tain a sight of the curious and well executed carvings in wood, by an un- known artist, which ornament one of the rooms in the house, No. 194. in the Schiissel-buden Strasse. The Holsteiner Thor (Holstein Gate) is a singular and interesting specimen of ancient feudal fortification, in an unaltered condition. The Burg Thor is a very curious and at the same time ornamental building. Until the French gained possession of Liibeck, no Jews were tolerated with- in the town; they were banished to the neighbouring village, Moisling, which they still occupy almost exclusively. The trade of the town, which is still considerable, chiefly consists in the ex- port of grain produced in the neigh- bouring districts, and in imports of wine, colonial produce, and manufac- tures of its own consumption, and that of the surrounding countries. Great trade is also carried on in goose quills for pens. Great exertions have been made for the construction of a railroad between Liibeck and Hamburg: but the Danish government refuse their consent on the ground that it would be prejudicial to Kiel. Schnellpost. — Daily to Hamburg in about 6 hrs. Persons going to Ber- lin need not pass through Hamburg, but can join the railway at the Scliwar- zenbeck station, for which a Schnell- post leaves Liibeck every morning, and arrives in hrs. Persons going by steam to St. Peters- burg must have their passports signed by the Russian Consul before they can secure a berth. For all particulars re- specting a journey in Northern Europe, see Handbook for Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. As the depth of the Trave at Liibeck is not sufficient for vessels of draught, the large steamers to St. Petersburg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dobberan start from Travemunde, about 10 miles off, at the mouth of the Trave. Two small steamers convey passengers up and down the river, the distance by water being 18 m., on account of the windings, and the fare marks = 3s. 4d. There is nothing to be seen on the river, and the passage takes about 2 hrs., and a coach will take you for the same price in 1^ hour, so that the ride is decidedly preferable in bad weather. The road is now excellent. There is a ferry, but it occasions little delay. ThePrussia. ROUTE 58.—HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. 337 hire of a carriage fromLiibeck to Trave- miinde is generally 5 marks. This is exclusive of the tolls and the driver, for which 2 more are amply sufficient. There is a fine avenue of lime trees for some distance from the town on the Travemiinde road. Travemunde (i, e. the Mouth of the Trave), the port of Liibeck, is a pretty small bathing-place, much resorted to in summer by Germans of the upper classes. There are good inns, Stadt Liibeck, a bath-house, provided with reading room and library, Stadt Ham- burg; both having restaurants attached. There are bathing-machines on the shore in the English fashion (called English bath-coaches), and warm sea- baths, which cost 24 schillings. Steam-boats.—Berths may be secured at the offices at Liibeck:—to St. Peters- burg once a week, from the middle of May to the middle of October;—to Copenhagen Monday and Wednesday, about 9 a. m. in about 20 hours, and to Stockholm once a week. ROUTE 58. HAMBURG TO STRALSUND AND RUGEN BT SCHWERIN, DOBBERAN, AND ROS- TOCK. 36 Germ. m. = 172 Eng. m. Schnellpost 3 times a week by Molln and Gadebusch to Schwerin and Ros- tock. The best and quickest way is to take the railway from Hamburg to Berlin (Rte. 61.) as far as 12£ Hagenow, whence a branch line is open to Schwerin and Wismar. 4^ Schwerin (Inns: H. du Nord : Stadt Hamburg; Deutsches Haus), capital of the Grand Duchy of Meck- lenburg-Schwerin, 13,500 inhab., is prettily situated on the Lake of Schwer- in, which is 14 m. long. The Dom is one of the finest Gothic churches in N. Germany; begun 1248, finished in the 15th cent., recently restored. The chapel of the Sacred Blood—the bu- rial place of the Grand Ducal family— has been ornamented with paintings by Cornelius, and stained glass windows. The monument of the Duchess Helena (1524), of bronze, was cast by Peter Vischer. The Duke’s picture gallery, Alexandrinen St., No. 1025, consists chiefly of Dutch and French works, and is shown daily (except Tues. and Sat.) 11—2. The Antiquarium contains ob- jects of antiquity found in Mecklen- burg. The Palace, a new edifice on an is- land, occupies the site of the Schloss, erected by Wallenstein while Duke of Mecklenburg, recently pulled down. 2 Ziekhausen on the lake, pleasing scenery. 2 Wismar (Inn, Post) has 10,000 inhab., and lies at the extremity of a bay, which forms one of the best har- bours in the Baltic. Its buildings are exceedingly curious and picturesque. (A railway is to be carried on to Rostock, turning out of the Wismar and Schwerin line, about halfway be- tween these places, and passing by 4 Warin, 2 Biitzow, and 2 Schwaan.) 3 Neubuckow. 2 Dobberan. — Inn: Great Lodging- house (Grosse Logerhaus) will furnish good accommodation to those who make any stay here, — Lindenhof. Dobberan is a small market-town of 2200 inhab., pleasantly situated in sight of the Bal- tic, in a pretty country, more hilly and woody than the shores of the Baltic usually are; the woods are of beech. It is a fashionable sea-bathing place, and would be even more frequented for the sake of its quiet rural situation, were the roads better. It contains the Pa- lace of the Grand Duke of Mecklen- burgh-Schwerin, surrounded by a park and garden, and an old Gothic Church, in which are many monuments of the Grand Ducal family. The Baths are about 3 m. offi On the sea-shore, at a place called Der Heilige Dam, from a huge bank of shingle, thrown up, according to the story, in a single night, to protect the country from inundation, a new bath- house and lodging-houses have been built for those who prefer residing on the spot. Refreshments of all kinds may be procured at the baths. . The great body of visitors reside in Dobberan, and drive over to the baths to breakfast. Omnibuses run to and338 rou;te 59. —Hamburg to hanover. Sect. V. fro. It is customary to set out at 6 in the morning for Heilige Dam, to bathe, and return by 10. At 11 the guests meet on the Kamp Promenade, and continue walking till dinner-time. The table-d’hbte dinner in the Great Di- ning-room in Dobberan takes place at 2 o’clock, and is commonly attended by the Grand Duke and his court, in the simple fashion prevailing among German princes. After dinner there are the amusements of the theatre, or gaming table, or rifle shooting, for those who choose them. But many will prefer a walk in the Duke’s park. The finest and most extensive view in this neighbourhood is that from the top of the Dietrichshagen. The Gestlischaftshaus contains ball and concert-rooms, adjoining the Pavi- lion in which the great dining-room is situated. Horse-races in August. In summer, a steamer every week to Stralsund. 2 Rostock. — Inns : II. de Kussie ; Stadt Stettin. This is the largest and most populous town in Mecklenburg ; it stands on the Warnow, has 19,000 inhab., and resembles Liibeck somewhat in the antiquity of its buildings."" It is the birth-place of General Bliicher; his statue of metal is placed in the square named after him, Bliicher’s Platz. The house in which he was born, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bet - tel-monchs-strasse. The great Ch. of St. Mary is very light and tall, date about 1300; its curious brass font is probably older. Inscriptions on each side of S. door in low German and Latin barely intelligible. The house in which Grotius died is in one corner of the market-place, close to the Ralh- haus. The Rathhaus, with its 7 towers, is a singular building, resembling that of Stralsund, but inferior to it. The Uni- versity of Rostock was founded in 1419; there are not more than 150 students. Keppler was professor here for ai short time, appointed by Wallenstein, then Duke of Mecklenburg. Warnemiinde, on the shore of the Baltic, at the mouth of the Warnow (9 m.), is the port of Rostock. Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 10J hours. Fine forests. The road is good as far as Ribnitz, on the backwater called Saaler-Bodden. ^ Dammgarten, on the Rechnitz river, which forms the boundary line between Mecklenburg and Prussian Pomerania. Si Stralsund in Route 76. ROUTE 59. HAMBURG TO HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, OR H1LDESHEIM, Railway from Haarburg. Trains twice a-day, in 4 or 5 hrs., to Lehrte. The country over which it passes is desolate and monotonous, chiefly heath. Steamers.—8 times a-day, in 1 hr., from Hamburg, across the Elbe, to Haarburg (Inns„• Post; Konig von Schweden; good), on its left bank, a town of 4000 inhab. Passengers are landed from the steamer at some dis- tance from the station upon an island, united by a wooden bridge to the town, which they do not enter. A dock and canal have been constructed to admit vessels to pass from the river up to the station of the Railway. In 1813, the French, under Marshal Da- voust, connected Hamburg with the outworks of Haarburg by a cliaussee across the island of Wilhelmburg, wooden bridges being thrown over the marshes. This work was much over- rated, aDd was removed as useless in 1818. The French bridge was not thrown over the Elbe itself, the N. and S. arms of which were passed by fer- ries. The view from the Schwartze Berg, behind Haarburg, is fine. Winsen Stat. Liineburg Stat. — Inns: Hoffnung, Stadt Hamburg. A town of 13,000 inhab., with salt springs and salt works. Old walls. Uelzen Stat. Celle Stat.— Inn, Hanoverische Hof; Sandkrug. A town of 10,000 inhab., on the Aller, in the midst of a sandy plain., The Royal Palace, lately re-Prussia. ROUTE 60. — HAMBURG TO BREMEN. 339 paired, has a fine chapel. In the French garden stands a mediocre monu- ment to Matilda, Queen of Denmark, sister of George III., who died here. The ancient Parish Ch. contains the burial vault of the house of Brunswick- Liineburg. From one of its dukes, Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, the two houses of Hanover and Bruns- wick, including the Royal Family of England, are descended. The King of Hanover has a splendid Stud here. Burgdorf Stat. Lehrte Stat.—Here 4 lines meet, from Haarburg, Hildesheim, Han- over, and Brunswick, and passen- gers are transferred from one train to another: they must therefore take care that they get into the right one. For the route from Lehrte W. to Hanover, or E. to Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway runs southward to Hildesheim. Station, Rte. 72. ROUTE 60. HAMBURG TO BREMEN AND OLDENBURG. 22^ Germ. m. = 109^ Eng. m. A good road, traversed by a schnell- post daily, in 15 hrs. to Bremen. 14- Haarburg. See preceding Route. 3^ Tostedt. — Inn small, but toler- able. 3^ Rothenburg. — Inn, clean and comfortable. 2\ Ottersberg. Bremen, in Rte. 69. 2 Delmenhorst. 2 Sandersfeld. 2 Oldenburg. — Inn: Erb Prinz best, and well situated. A very dull town, in a flat country, on the small river Hunte, which is navigable up to the town. Capital of the Grand Duchy with 8000 inhab. The chief buildings are the Grand Duke’s Palace, of antique architecture, furnished in a moderate style; and containing some very poor paintings by Tischbein. In one of the outhouses of the palace is a gallery of pictures, some of which bear great names; but it is difficult to fix on any which make the collection worth avisit. Near the palace is a beautiful garden and park, and the Church of St. Lambert. Communication between Oldenburg and Bremen is kept up in summer by steamers, and considerable works have been executed on the Weser below Bremen, in order to increase the depth of water. A small steam-boat leaves Oldenburg early in the morning, and descends the Hunte to Els'fleth, where the passengers are transferred to larger boats, going up to Bremen and down to Bremerhafen: having received the passengers who have arrived from those places, it returns to Oldenburg. The steamer which meets that from Olden- burg at Elsfleth leaves Bremen early in the morning. ROUTE 61. HAMBURG TO BERLIN.---RAILWAV. 38 Pruss. m. = 178 Eng. m.—Trains in 9 hrs. The line is carried across the marsh land on the north of the Elbe through the district of Vierland (four lands, so called from its having 4 villages), re- markable for its market gardens, and the picturesque costume of its peasantry, who are believed to be the descendants of a Dutch colony. 2-1 Germ. m. Bergedorf Stat.—A village on the confines of the Ham- burg territory. The country traversed is, for the most part, entirely flat. It is a portion of that great plain of sand which extends almost uninterruptedly from Holstein to St. Petersburg. Generally speak- ing, it has a character of extreme bar- renness, producing little but heath and scanty plantations of fir. The whole of this vast plain is scattered over with rounded fragments of slate and granite rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ be- tween the Elbe and Baltic, nor any- where nearer than the mountains of Norway and Sweden, from whence they must have been torn, and transported over the Baltic, but whether by some vast current of water, or by icebergs or glaciers, are questions on which geolo- gists are not agreed. These boulders occur above and below the surface, from the size of a pebble to that of a house. - Q 2340 ROUTE 61.—HAMBURG TO BERLIN. Sect. V. •5 Reinbeck Stat. *9 Friedrichsruhe Stat. 1 *4 Schwartzenbeck Stat.; a great deal of fir forest. 1 '4 Biiehen Stat. — [A branch line is carried S. from here to the Elbe at Lauenburg. — Inns: Rathskeller ; Schwan. A town of 3400 inhab. upon the Elbe, where the king of Denmark levies toll on all vessels passing the Elbe.] The canal of the Stechnitz, join- ing the Elbe to the Baltic, crossed by the railway near Biiehen Stat., is one of the oldest in Europe. We enter the territory of Mecklenburg- Schwerin, a few miles before reaching 1’8 Boitzenburg Stat. (Klepper’s Inn is tolerable), a small town upon the Elbe. Here, and at the small for- tress of Dbmitz, the Duke of Meck- lenburg exacts a productive toll, though only a narrow slip of his territory touches the river at these points. A large part of Mecklenburg is fer- tile corn-land, contrasting remarkably with the sandy deserts of the duchy of Lauenburg, near Hamburg, and the dreary waste around Berlin. Upon the heaths and commons numerous flocks of geese are fed, which furnish a large portion of Europe with quills, and the inhabitants of this country with a delicacy called goose-breasts, consist- ing of that part of the bird smoked and cured like bacon. 1 ‘8 Brahlsdorf Stat. 2 •6 Hagenow Stat. Hence a branch line diverges N. to Schwerin and Wis- mnr, and is to be carried on to Ros- .tock. (Rte. 58.) 2 -8 Ludwigslust Stat. — Inn, H. de Weimar. A town of 4000 inhab., the ■summer residence of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Sehwerin, whose Pa- lace is the principal building. It con- tains a small cabinet of pictures, among them some good specimens of the Dutch school, and a collection of Sclavonic antiquities, chiefly found in Mecklen- burg. Many were dug up on the site of the Temple of Radegast. Attached to the palace are a spacious park and ■garden. The Russian chapel, contain- ing the mausoleum of the Arch- Duchess Helena, might interest those who have never before seen a cbapel dedicated to the service of the Greek church. The Stables of the Grand Duke are extensive. He possesses a fine stud, and pays great attention to the im- provement of the breed. At the village of Wobbelin, on the road to Schwerin, is a cast-iron monu- ment to Korner, the German Tyrtaeus, poet and warrior, who fell in an action near Gadebusch, fighting against the French, 1813, a few hours after com- posing his celebrated “ Schwerdtlied.” His remains rest under an oak, where they were interred by his brothers in arms, and a monument of cast-iron marks his grave. 1 Grabow Stat., a small town of Mecklenburg, containing large store- houses for butter, which is sold in great quantities at 6 fairs held here annually. The Prussian frontier is crossed a little way beyond Grabow: but the Custom-house examination takes place at Berlin. The railway then bends S. towards the Elbe, which it reaches at 4'9 Wittenberge Stat. (not to be confounded with Luther’s burial-place, Rte. 62. a. ) From Wittenberge a line will branch off to Magdeburg, crossing the Elbe, and passing by Osterburg and Stendal. 1 ’8 Wilsnnck Stat, l-5 Gldwen Stat. 2 Zernitz Stat. 1 Neustadt, on the Dosse Stat. About 12 in. E. of this, near Neu Ruppin, is the Chateau of Rheinsbsrg, where Frederick the Great spent many of his youthful years, and, according to his own account, the happiest of his life. Ziethen, one of the generals of the Seven Years’ War, was buried at Wustrau. 1 -8 Friesack Stat. At Fehrbellin, a few m. north of Friesack, the great Elector of Bran- denburg, in 1675, gained a decisive victory, with 5000 cavalry, over the Swedes, 11,000 strong, by which he laid the foundation of the future great- ness of the house of Brandenburg. 1‘7 Paulinenau Stat.Published by John Murray Albeouirle Street London 1SJ9. J.yCMaUw S.-ulr.Prussia. route 61. — Berlin, inns. 341 1 ‘8 Nauen St. — Inns: Stadt Ham- burg ; Golden Stern. A town of 3050 inhab. The greater part of it was destroyed by fire in 1830. 3 '2 Spandau Stat. — Inn : Rother Adler. A strongly fortified town of 7000 inhab,, at the junction of the Spree with the Havel, which is here crossed by the railway. These rivers afford the: means of inundating the surround- ing country, in the event of a hostile attack. Its citadel stands on an island. Thje Ch. of St. Nicholas, a Gothic edi- fied of the 16th cent., contains several curious monuments, and a very ancient metal font. The Penitentiary, once the Pajace of the Electors of Brandenburg, is admirably managed, and is capable of Containing 500 prisoners. 0n the right, about 3 miles before reaching Berlin, are the Palace and Gardens of Charlottenburg. (See p. 356.) I ‘5. Berlik. — Inns : Stadt Rom, Unter den Linden, very good ; — II. de Russie near the Schlossbrucke, much recommended ; — H. de Peters- burg ; — H. de Brandenburg, com- fortable ; — British Hotel, Unter den Linden, good ; — H. du Nord, con- taining the English chapel;—Golfi- ner Adler; — H. de 1’Europe. 2d class inn : Rheinischer Hof, near the Anhalt Railway Station, good and moderate. Charges, &c., see § 51. Tatle d’hote, without wine, 15 Sgr. ; rooins, from 10 Sgr. upwards. The Passport-office (Pass-bureau), is at No. 2, Molkenmarkt. The Post and Schnellpost-office, No. GO, Konigsstrasse, are open from 7 a.51. to 8 r. 51. " Droschkies (open hacltney coaches) plyifor hire in the principal streets. Fates for 1 or 2 persons: a drive 5 Sgr. ; 3 or 4 persons, Sgr.; by the hour, 15 and 17i Sgr., 1 or 2 horses alike. Every person is presented by the driver with a printed ticket, bear- ing his number and the date of the month, — an excellent regulation. A Valet de place receives usually 1 dollar per diem ; 15 Sgr. for half a day. The lest laths are at No. 1, Neuer Packhof, and 19, Neue Friedrichs- strasse. English Church.—An English Epis- copal chapel has been fitted up, close to, and connected with the Hotel du Nord, Unter den Linden, 35. Time Table of Sights. Daily, except Sunday. — Royal Pa- lace, 10—3 (p 344.). Museum of Paintings and Sculpture, 10—4 sum- mer : 10—3 winter (p. 346.). Zoolo- gical Garden (p. 356.). Raczynski Picture Gallery (p. 353.). Changing Guard, 11 a.m., and Military Band opposite the Guard House (p. 343.). Monday.—Vases, Bronzes, and Gems in Museum, 10—4 (p. 347.). Tuesday. — Kunstkammer, 12—4 (p. 344.). Zoolog. Museum, 12—2 (p. 351.). Modern pictures in Schloss Bellevue, 10—1 and 2—6 (p. 353.). Cabinet of Engravings, and National Collection, in Monbijou, 10—>• 4 (p. 352. ). Schinkel Museum in the Bau- schule, 11—-1 (p. 353.). Pfauen-Insel (p. 357.). Wednesday. — Anatomy Museum, 4—6 (p. 351.). Royal Library, 10— 12' (p. 350.). Arsenal, 2—4 (p. 352.). Kunstkammer, 10—4 (p. 344.). Vases, &c. in Museum, 10—4 (p. 347.). Thursday.—Kunstkammer, 10—4 (p. 344.). Egyptian Museum, 10—4 (p. 351.). National Collections, 10—4 (p. 352.). Pfauen-Insel (p. 357.). Friday.— Kunstkammer, 10—4 (p. 344.). Modern pictures, 10—1 and 2 —6 (p.353.). Vases, &c. in Museum, 10—4 (p. 347.). Engravings, 10—4 (p. 352.). Schinkel-Mus., 11—1 (p. 353. )» Botanic Garden (p. 355.). Zoolog. Museum; 12—2 (p. 351.). Saturday. — Roy. Library, 10—12 (p. 350.). Arsenal, 2—4 (p. £52.). Anatom. Museum, 4—6 (p. 35I;.). Berlin, the capital of Prussia, stands on thfe Spree, a small stream with- a very sluggish current; which, however, by means of canals, communicates with the Oder and the Baltic on the one hand, and flows into the Elbe on the other. Population 400,000 ; of whom 8000 are soldiers of the garrison, 7000342 ROUTE 61. —- BERLIN. SOCIETY. Sect. Y. Jews, and 5300 descendants of the French Protestants driven out of France by the religious intolerance of Louis XIV., and 15,000 Catholics. It is the residence of the king, and of the foreign ministers, among them of an English minister, and the seat of go- vernment. The great number of sol- diers gives to Berlin almost the air of a camp. The city is situated in the midst of a dreary plain of sand, destitute of either beauty or fertility. It is surprising that the foundation of a town should ever have been laid on so uninteresting a spot; but it is far more wonderful that it should have grown up, notwith- standing, into the flourishing capital of a great empire. Previous to the reign of Frederick I. it was an unimportant town, confined to the rt. bank of the Spree, and to the island on which the Palace and Museum now stand. Since that time, in 150 years, its population has increased ten-fold, and its limits have extended until its walls are 12 m. in circumference. Frederick the Great,, being ambitious to possess a capital proportionate to the rapid increase of bis dominions, at once enclosed a vast space with walls, and ordered it to be filled with houses. As the population was scanty, the only mode of comply- ing with the wishes T>f the sovereign was by stretching the hduses over as wide a space as possible. In conse- quence, some of the handsomest hotels are only two stories high, and have as many as 20 windows on a line. The streets arc necessarily broad, and there- fore generally appear empty. Owing to the want of stone in the neighbour- hood, the larger part even of the pub- lic buildings are of brick and plaster. The flatness of the ground and the sandy soil produce inconveniences which the stranger will not be long in detect- ing. There is so little declivity in the surface, that the water in the drains, instead of running off, stops and stag- nates in the streets. In the Friedrichs- strasse, which is 2 m. long, there is not a foot of descent from one end to the other. In the summer season the heat of the sun reflected by the sand becomes intolerable, and the noxious odours in the streets are very , un? wholesome as well as unpleasant. A third nuisance is, that the streets are only partially provided with trottoirs, so narrow that two persons can scarcely walk abreast, and many are infamously paved with sharp stones, upon which it is excruciating pain to tread. The mere passing traveller in search of amusements, will exhaust the sights of Berlin perhaps in a fortnight, and afterwards find it tedious without the society of friends. The stranger com- ing to reside here, provided with good introductions, may find an agreeable literary society composed of the most talented men in Germany, whom the government has the art of drawing around it in an official capacity, or as professors of the university. The names of Humboldt the traveller, Savigny the jurist, Ranke and Raumer the histo- rians, Ehrenberg the naturalist, Von Buch the geologist, and Ritter the geographer, Grimm the philologist, and editor of the Kinder and Haus-Mar- chcn, Schelling the metaphysical wri- ter, Cornelius the painter, Tieck the author (who spends 3 months of the year here, the King having granted him a pension on that condition), all residents of Berlin, enjoy a European celebrity. The society of the upper classes is on the whole not very acces- sible to strangers, nor is hospitality exercised to the same extent among them as in England, chiefly because their fortunes are limited. The Hotels of the diplomatic corps are an excep- tion, and in them the most agreeable soirees are held in the winter season. Notwithstanding the disadvantages of situation, Berlin is certainly one of the finest cities in Europe. Some of the most splendid buildings are con- centrated in a very small space between the Palace (Schloss) and the Branden- burg gate, or very near it. Few Euro- pean capitals can show so much archi- tectural splendour as is seen in the colossal Palace, the beautiful colonnade of the new Museum, the chaste Guard- house, the Italian Opera, and the Uni- versity opposite. These, with the Ar-Prussia. ROUTE 61.---BERLIN. STATUES. 343 senal, by some considered a most per- fect specimen of architecture (?) in the city, and the Academy of Arts, are all within a stone’s throw of one another, and the greater part may be seen by turning round on one’s heel, while the 2 churches and theatre in the Gens d’Armes Platz are not many paces off. Most of these buildings are situated in the street named Unter den Linden, from a double avenue of Lime Trees, which form a shady walk in its centre, while on each side of it runs a carriage road. It is the principal and most frequented street in this city. The view along it is terminated by the magnificent Brandenburg Gate. The Brandenburg Gate is said to have been designed as an imitation of the Propylteum at Athens, but on a larger scale. The car of victory on the top was carried to Paris as a trophy by Napoleon, but it was recovered by the Prussians after the battle of Wa- terloo, who bestowed upon the goddess, after her return, the eagle and iron cross which she now bears. A French authority (Malte Brun) describes it thus:—“ Le quadrige de cuivre qui fut enleve par les Fran9ais lors de la premiere campagne de Prusse, et qui a et£ a Paris depuis 1806 jusqu’a 1814, ne decora jamais aucun des monumens de cette capitale ; — chef-d’oeuvre de patience plutot que de l’art, il fut execute par un chaudronnier de Ber- lin ; ce n’est point un ouvrage de ciselure, mais un simple releve en bosse sur du cuivre lamine.” , The Prussians have exhibited their gratitude and respect to the memory of the worthies of their country, in the statues of them erected in the streets and squares of the capital. Those .to whom this honour has been paid are, without exception, military heroes. The Government is rendering only tardy justice to the greatest of them all, Frederick the Great, to whom an eques- trian statue in bronze, modelled by Rauch, is about to be erected in. the Unter den Linden, opposite. Prince William’s Palace and the University. It will be probably the grandest monu- ment in Europe; the colossal eques- trian statue of old Fritz, in his own proper costume on horseback, (the horse 16 ft. high,) will be raised on a pedes- tal, and at its corners will be statues as large as life, also equestrian, of his 4 greatest generals ; the intervals being filled up with groups of his other com- rades in arms. The model of this monument may be seen in Rauch’s studio. On the long bridge leading from the Konigstrasse to the Schloss Platz, is the equestrian statue of the Great Elector Fred. IVm., in bronze, designed by Scliliiter, and possessing considerable merit as a work of art. Opposite the Grand Guardhouse (Haupt-wache) stands the bronze sta- tue of Bliicher, a spirited figure, well executed; the pedestal is decorated with good bas-reliefs. Facing him, on each side of the Guardhouse, are the marble statues of Bulow von Dennewitz and of General Schamhorst, the reformer of the Prussian army after the battle of Jena, and the founder of the present military system of Prussia. These 8 statues are by the Sculptor Rauch. The cannon and mortars behind the Guardhouse were brought from Paris, 1816 ; the mortars were cast in France, to be employed in the siege of Cadiz, and are the fellows of the one in St. James’s Park. The cannon originally came from Liibeck, and was carried oft* by the French in 1806. In the square called Wilhelms Platz, near the Potzdam Gate, are the statues of six heroes of the Seven Years’ war, the Prince of Anhalt Dessau, Gene- rals Ziethen, Schwerin, Wint.erfeldt, Keith, and Seidlitz. They are for the most part of little merit as works of art, and the classical tpgas and armour in which some of them are dressed out are incongruous and in bad taste. The Churches are not the objects which will attract the most notice in Berlin. In St. Nicholas, a Gothic edifice of different periods, in the old town, is the tomb of Puffendorf* who died here in 1690. He was historio- grapher, privy counsellor, and judge at the court of Frederick William, Elector of Brandenburg. The Cathedral (Dom) between the344 ROUTE 61.--BERLIN. CHURCHES. PALACES. Sect. V. Palace and the Exchange, built 1747, is ugly in its exterior, and within has hardly the air of a church. It is the burial-place of the Royal Family, and contains the remains of the Great Elector and of Frederick I., king of Prussia, in gilded coffins. The bronze effigy of the Elector John Cicero, cast by a Burgundian artist, in 1540,—that of the Elector Joachim, made by one Adam Vischer of Nuremberg,—and a mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope Pius VII. to the late king, on one side of the altar, deserve notice. Contiguous to the Dom, a cloister has been constructed as a royal burial- place, on the plan of the Campo Santo, at Pisa, and has been adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. The two churches in the Gens d’Armes Platz are admired for their architecture. The Catholic Church of St. Hedewig is a poor imitation of the Pantheon. The Garnison Kirche is attended by the soldiers of the garrison: the music is good. It contains paint- ings by Rhode, of no great merit, and very inappropriate to a church, repre- senting the death of some of the gene- rals of the Seven Years’ war. Against the walls are hung tablets bearing the list of names of those who fell in the war of liberation, 1813—15 : a similar memorial will be fonnd in almost every parish church in Prussia, with the simple inscription, “ They died for their King and Fatherland.” The Church of Friedrichswerder is a modern Gothic structure, designed by Schinkel. It is of brick, and the mouldings, window tracery, cornices, corbels, and other ornaments usually cut out of stone, are of clay moulded and burnt into brick, an important application or revival of the use of that material to the purpose of ornamental architecture. Palace. — At the gate on the side of the Lustgarten stand casts in bronze of the horses and grooms from the Monte Cavallo, Rome, gifts of the Empr. of Russia. The Berliners have nicknamed them Gehemmte Fortschritt, and Be- forderte Riickschritt. The Royal Palace, or Schloss, is in- debted to its vast size for the marked air of grandeur which its exterior pos- sesses. Within it is sumptuously fur- nished ; the state apartments are shown by the castellan, who lives in the 2nd court on the 2nd floor. In the Ritter- saal (Knights’ Hall), a splendid apart- ment, is the throne and a sideboard covered with massive old plate of gold and silver. In the White Hall, recently fitted up at great cost (£120,000.), de- corated with the statues of the 12 Brandenburg Electors, and the 8 Prus- sian provinces, the 1st meeting of the Prussian Parliament was held, April, 1847. The most interesting rooms are those which were inhabited by Frederick the Great, at the corner of the building facing the Schloss Platz, and nearest to the long bridge on the first floor. The best paintings have been removed by the king’s permission to the Museum : among those that re- main are Charles I. and his Queen Henrietta, by Vdndyk — Marriage of St. Catherine, by Giulio Romano—Vir- tue quitting the Earth, Mars and Ve- nus, by Rubens—Napoleon crossing the Great St. Bernard, by David—and in the White Hall a portrait of the late King of Prussia, by Sir Thos. Law- rence, a present from Geo. IV—Queen Victoria, by llayter. There are some good works of the modem German school: Leonore (Burger’s), by Les- sing ; Jeremiah, Bendeman, &c. In former times, according to vulgar belief, this building was haunted by a ghost called the White Lady, who ap- peared only to announce the death of a member of the royal family. In the attic story of this palace, on the side towards the Lustgarten, is the Kunstkammer (Chamber of Art). Its collections (about to be removed to the New Museum, when it is finished,) are well worth seeing ; they are showed on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Friday, from 10—4 in summer, 10—3 in win- ter, by tickets, and as only 30 are issued each day, it is advisable to apply for them early—the day before—to the castellan of the museum. “ By sending your card to the directors, you will be allowed to join a party without waiting for your turn, which may not be for a fortnight.”—J. M. One room is occu- pied by a collection illustrative of thePrussia, route 61. — Berlin, the royal palace. 345 manners and customs of different parts of the world, especially of savage nations; such are a clonk of feathers, presented by Tamehameha, king of the Sandwich Islands, with a complimentary letter to the late king of Prussia, in return for which he received the full uniform of the 2d Regt. of Prussian Guards — a model of a Chinese lady’s foot, to show the manner in which they are pinched and contracted—a filigree silver case, like a claw, nearly three inches long, worn by ladies of rank in China, to protect their finger-nails, which it is the fashion to let grow to that length —coloured pieces of paper used instead of napkins at dinner—a variety of Chi- nese dresses, among them the military uniform of a captain — a lasso from S. America — a cigar smoked by the ladies of Lima, ] £ foot long and thick in proportion — large disks of wood inserted by the Botocudos Indians in their ears and under-lips—tatooed head of a New Zealander—weapons brought from Africa by Ehrenberg the traveller ■— an Australian necklace of human teeth—staves covered with Runic in- scriptions carved on them, and a Runic almanac cut on 12 tablets of wood— the costumes of Mexico, in a series of coloured wax figures — copies of two of Northcote’s pictures, by Chinese native artists, very well executed — a vast assortment of Chinese musical in- struments ; the modern invention of the mouth harmonica was taken from one of them — Japanese weapons : one of the most formidable is a sort of scythe fixed vertically upon the end of a long pole — saddle of the Turkish Pasha of Shumla, strangled for having yielded that fortress to the Russians in 1828. The Asiatic collection was chiefly formed by Kruger. A model of the mines of Freiberg. The head and horns of a stag in the centre of the trunk of a tree, which has grown around them so that the points of the antlers alone project. The Historical Collection is highly interesting as illustrating- in many in- stances the characters and lives of re- markable men, and it is for the most part undoubtedly authentic: it con- tains— the model of a windmill made by Peter the Great with his own hands, while working as a ship-carpenter in Holland. — The Robes of the Orders of the Garter given by George IV., and of the Holy Ghost given by Louis XVIII., to the late king of Prussia; between the two is the scarlet dress of a Doctor of Civil Law given to him by the Uni- versity of Oxford, on the occasion of his visit in 1814. The hussar dress, and cap surmounted with a black eagle’s wing, worn by the Prussian General Ziethen — two cannon balls, each with one side flattened, are said to have been fired by opposite parties in the siege of Magdeburg, and,to have met together in the air I Some of the relics here preserved are peculiarly national, such as — a cast taken after death from the face of Fre- derick the Great, — the bullet which1 wounded him in the battle of Rossbach, 1760, — a wax figure of him clothed in the very uniform he wore on the day of his death ; the coat is rusty and tar- nished, the scabbard of the sword is mended with sealing-wax by his own hand; his books and walking-cane, his baton, and the favourite flute, his solace in hours of relaxation, are carefully pre- served here along with his pocket-hand- kerchief, which he used to the last; it is a dirty rag, very tattered, though patched in many places. This confirms the description of Dr. Moore, who visited the palace in Frederick’s life- time. “ The whole wardrobe consisted of two blue coats, faced with red, the lining of one a little torn ; two yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled with Spanish snuff; three pairs of yellow breeches, and a suit of blue velvet em- broidered with silver, for grand occa- sions. I imagined at first that the man had got a few of the king’s old clothes, and kept them here to amuse strangers; but, upon inquiry, I was assured that what I have mentioned, with two suits of uniform which he has at Sans Souci, form the entire wardrobe of the king of Prussia. Our attendant said he had never known it more complete.” Opposite the figure of Frederick is placed a glass-case containing the stars, o 5346 Sect. Y. BOUTE 61.---BERLIN. MUSEUM. orders, : and decorations presented to Bonaparte by the different sovereigns of Europe, one of the most conspicuous being the Prussian black eagle: Eng- land alone, it appears, contributed none. They were taken by the Prussians after the battle of Waterloo, in his carriage, from which he escaped so narrowly that he left his hat behind him, which is also preserved here. Not far off are Bliicher’s orders. A cast in wax from the face of the beautiful queen Louisa of Prussia. A cast of Moreau’s face, taken after death. The camp chair of the great Gustavus Adolphus. Fre- derick the Great’s father’s collection of well used tobacco pipe's. The cap and sword worn by the Great Elector at the battle of Fehrbellin. A white dress that belonged to Murat is so fantastic in shape, and gaudy in gold lace, as fully to explain and justify the nick- name of Franconi, given him by Bona- parte. Two executioner’s swords, remarkable on account of the persons whose heads have been cut off by them. A rich and elaborately ornamented cabinet, called the Pomeranian Chest, was made at Augsburg, 1617, for Phi- lip II. Duke of Pomerania, and is a mine of art in itself. A great variety of articles made of amber, and many specimens, rough and cut, of this mi- neral, which is found in great quantities within the Prussian dominion. Among the works of art in this mu- seum are a head carved in wood, by A. Durer. A bas-relief of Orpheus and Eprydice, in bronze, by Peter Fischer. An ivory crucifix, attributed to M. Angelo. A large basin with bas-reliefs in ivory. The Descent of the Fallen Angels, an elaborately minute carving of many figures in ivory. The whole life of Christ, minutely carved in wood. A battle piece, by A. Durer. An ex- tensive collection of carvings and reliefs in ivory, gold and silver plate, cups and vases enriched with bas-reliefs and precious stones. An elephant’s tusk carved with hunting scenes, probably a work of the 10th cent., is curious for its antiquity. The old ivories and ena- melled reliquaries are very fine. Here are some red cups of Bottcher’s original Dresden china-ware, and 2 pale ones with Gothic patterns, very rare spe- cimens. Baron Trenck’s drinking cup* engraved by him while in prison. Lu- ther’s beer jug, very large measure. A very beautiful series of miniature "por- traits ; among them Gustavus Adol- phus and his daughter Christina. A detailed catalogue of the Kuntskammer, modest mansion opposite the arsenal, is preserved just as it was left by its former occupant; and in its interior decoration it displays the simplicity and good taste which characterised him. The furniture and decorations are of native manufacture; the pictures, &c. are the productions of national art and talents. In the principal apartment are very good copies of Raphael’s best pictures by Prussian artists. The Museum, facing the Lustgarten. —This very handsome edifice was fi- nished in 1830, from the designs of the distinguished architect Schinkelits foundations are laid on many thou- sand piles, as the spot on which it stands was previously a branch of the Spree, which has been filled up. Before the entrance is a gigantic basin of polished granite, 22 feet in di- ameter. The block out of which it was formed was a vast isolated boulder, known as the great Markgrafenstein, and lay at Fiirstenwald, nearly 30 m. from Berlin. It was conveyed thence in a flat -bottomed boat along the Spree to Berlin, and there polished by the aid of a steam engine. At the rt. side of the staircase, is a group in bronze, representing the com- bat of an Amazon with a tiger, by Kiss. The walls of the noble colonnade running along the front have been adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. They were executed under the direc- tion of Cornelius from the designs of Schinkel, and are so illustrative of a style of composition frequently dis- played in German art, that the expla- nation of the obscure allegories which they contain is here given. They pro-! fess to illustrate allegorically the history of the formation of the universe and the intellectual development of mankind. On the left of the entrance, on ascend- drawn up by Kugler, has been printed The late King's Private Residence, iPrussia. 347 ROUTE 61.---BERLIN. MUSEUM. ing the steps, are represented “ the sun In his chariot rising from the sea to give light to the world. In the clouds which reflect his glory are the Graces, with the sacred swans of the deity. Lively pictures of hope for the coming day rise out of the morning clouds. A choir of harpers in the clouds an- nounce the rising of the sun. The life of the day is represented by various allegories. The grand and beautiful female who spreads over herself a man- tle, under which several groups of sleepers repose, is the Night. Selene shedding light drives her chariot through the night. Saturn and the Titans withdraw into the gloom of past time. Lastly, Uranus is leading the dance of the starry host.” On the right of the en- trance, the spring of Imagination rises under the stroke from the hoof of Pega- sus. Morning and Spring of Life : — shepherd races in the enjoyment of nature by poetry, and games of strength and activity. Beginnings of art in the out- lines of shadows. Summer and Mid- day :—the harvest and its joys. Behind the waterfall from the fountain of poetry, resembling a veil, sit the Fates in the lap of the earth j while every thing draws animation and strength from the foun- tain. Evening and Autumn : — vin- tage,workshops of artists, and discovery of the Corinthian capital. Warriors return home, and Age is delighted by the visit of the Muses. Night and Winter : — the wise man watched by Psyche investigates the course of the stars. The moon descends into the sea. The grey-headed old man is absorbed in considering the elements. The sea- man launches out into the ocean over which the moon sheds its light. The collections which the Museum contains consist of — 1. Vases and bronzes, on the ground floor. — 2. The Sculpture Gallery, and collection of old china and painted glass, on the 1st floor__3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper story. 1. Collection of Vases, Bronzes, and Gems.—Entrance at the back of tlje Museum. —Admittance, Mond., Wed., and Fri., 10 to 4, by tickets. Among the most remarkable objects in bronze, are the following: — An extensive se- ries of Roman Penates, or Household Gods; Roman arms, armour, spear, back and breast plates, greaves for the legs, and various utensils; a sacrificial axe, a large circular shield, a small statue of an elephant, of good work- manship. There are numerous articles in terra cotta, and various inscriptions on stone and metal. Among the 2814 gems, are many first-rate works, from the collection of Stosch; a cornelian with the 7 before Thebes; portrait of Pompey ; young Hercules; Jupiter, Serapis, and Ceres. The vases amount in number to 1600. They are exceedingly well clas- sified, according to country and shape, and those bearing designs on the lower side, arranged upon tables of looking- glass. The contents of this portion of the Museum are principally derived from the collections of Bartholdy, Pruss. minister at Rome, Von Kollar, Austrian commander at Naples, and from that formerly in the Palace. From its nature, it is better calculated to in- terest the antiquarian than the general observer. 2. The entrance to the Sculpture Gallery is through a grand circular hall extending the whole height of the building, and very imposing from its size and proportions. Around it are antique statues, and in the centre a magnificent malachite vase, a gift of the Emp. Nicholas. The antiquities are principally composed of the col- lection of Cardinal Polignac. It may be premised that few of them are above mediocrity as works of art, and that a large part of them are much indebted to modern restorers. There is, how- ever, at least one exception. The Boy praying is one of the finest antique bronze statues in existence; it was found in the bed of the Tiber (140) — Apollo restraining Hercules from car- rying away the Delphic tripod, a bas- relief. (81).—A Venus (113).— Daugh- ter of Niobe (217).—A Wrestler (129). — A Bacchante (130)--------The proces- sion of Bacchus and Ariadne (146).— Bust of Julius Caesar; it used to stand on the table of Frederick the Great348 ROUTE 61.---BERLIN. PAINTINGS. Sect. Y. (295); — a hero or Mercury, found at Syra, 1831, the head and arms mo- dern ; — Bust of Pericles (396); — Ca- nova s Hebe—are almost the only others worth notice. There is a catalogue costing 7j Sgr. In side apartments (open Tues. and Fri.), leading out of the Sculpture Gallery, are the collection of China — of Majolica, from the year 1519—together with works in baked clay, glazed: among them is a large altarpiece by Luca della Robbia, a beautiful high relief of clay gilt, representing the Trinity; — and some painted glass. In the Antiquarium is the golden shrine of St. Patroclus, brought from Soest, of very beautiful workmanship (date 1313?), also a richly embossed silver dish, of cinque cento work, possibly by Benvenuto Cellini. 3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper story of, the building, is divided into numerous small compartments, by par- titions or screens extending from be- tween the piers of the windows nearly to the opposite walls. The collection is composed of, 1st, a selection from the paintings formerly in the Royal Palaces of Berlin, Sans Souci, and Charlottenburg, which the late king allowed to be removed to the Prussian National Gallery. They are marked in the Catalogue K. S. The Giustiniani collection (marked G. S.), from Venice, and the pictures of Mr. Solly, an English merchant (marked S. S.), both of which have been pur- chased by the Government. The Berlin Gallery ranks below the Galleries of Munich and Dresden in works of first-rate excellence, but it has good specimens of a great number of masters, especially of the early German and Italian schools. For those who are desirous of studying the history and progress of the art, from the By- zantine schools through those of Flo- rence and Sienna, to its period of ex- cellence, and thence to trace its gradual decay, there can be no better oppor- tunity than is here afforded them. The Director Waagen has prepared an admirable catalogue, with a short introduction to explain the origin and character of each school. His arrange- ment, combining the chronological or- der with the classification according to schools, is very good. The gallery is divided into 37 ca- binets or compartments, each distin- guished by a number over the entrance. In the 4 th cabinet on the left of the entrance begin the Italian schools; on the one next to it, i. e. the 5th from the entrance, begin the Flemish schools. These two cabinets therefore may be considered as points of departure. If the spectator continue oh to the left, he will pass in succession through the cabinets devoted to Flemish art, com- mencing with the Van Eyck’s, and ending with the followers of Rembrandt and Rubens; if he take an opposite direction, to the right, he will find in regular order the works of the schools of Venice, Lombardy, Rome, Bologna, &c. The gallery is by no means deficient in fine works of the great Italian mas- ters, but it is particularly rich in the Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the pictures which appear most deserving of attention are the following : — Italian School. — Andrea Mantegna ; Angels weeping over Christ. Fran- cesco Francia; the Virgin in Glory worshipped by six Saints. Pinturicchio; the Adoration of the Magi. Titian; portrait of his daughter Lavinia. Raphael; Virgin and Child, called Madonna di Casa Colonna; — in his best manner. Another Holy Family, with the Adoration of Magi, called Madonna Ancajani, from a family of that name at Spoleto, its former own- ers, is the largest picture by Raphael in Germany, after the San Sisto at Dresden, but unluckily it is half de- stroyed ; in many places the colour is so far gone as to show the outline and contour of the figure, and the variou^ layers of colouring in proportion as they are worn away. Instead of re- touching the defective parts, by which the original composition would have been entirely obliterated, a finished copy has been made by a skilful artist, to give an idea of what the picture was when perfect. (The original is inPrussia. ROUTE 61.—-BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 349 a side room, of which the door is locked, but the attendant of the gal- lery will open it on application.) There is an interesting altar-piece by Raphael’s father, Giovanni Santi. The little child with folded arms opposite to St. John is supposed to represent Raphael at the age of 3 years. Correggio; Leda and the Swan — To and the Cloud, a repetition of that at Vienna, but inferior to it, as the flesh seems to have faded, and the shadows to have become black. These 2 pic- tures formed the gems of the gallery of the Regent Duke of Orleans; his son, from prudish motives, cut out the heads of Io and Leda, and burnt them, and cut the picture of Leda to pieces; luckily they were preserved, and pur- chased by Frederick the Great, for Sans Souci. The existing heads are insertions; that of Io was painted by Prudhon, a French artist. The Leda was most injuriously retouched by the French, who removed the picture to Paris, but has been recently restored to its original condition, and a new head painted for it by a German artist. Fra. Bartolomeo; the Assumption of the Virgin. Sabbattini da Bologna; the Virgin on a throne with three Saints. Guido Beni; the Hermits Paul and Anthony discoursing. Ludovico Caracci; Christ feeding the 5000. Michel Angelo Caravaggio; Christ in the Garden. Sassoferrato; Joseph and the Infant Christ. Carlo Dolce; St. John the Evangelist. Luca Giordano; the Judgment of Paris. French School. — Nicolas Poussin ; the Education of Jupiter; Landscape, with the story of Juno and Argus. Lesueur; St. Bruno. Spanish School. — Murillo; St. An- thony of Padua embracing the Infant Christ. Flemish and Dutch Schools. — John and Hubert Van Eyck; 12 paintings which formed the side wings or shut- ters of the famous altar-piece known as “ The Worship qf thte spotless Lamb,” in the church of St. Bavon at Ghent, where the central portion still^emains. (See p. 135.) They are decidedly the finest works which the Berlin Museum possesses. They represent, 1st, The just Judges ; the man on the white horse is the painter Hubert Van Eyck; the figure in black, looking round, is his brother John. 2d, The Soldiers of Christ: here are introduced portraits of Charlemagne and St. Lewis. 3d and 4th, Angels singing and playing. 5th, The Holy Hermits. 6th, The Holy Pilgrims. At the back of the above 6 pictures are painted the 6 following : once every day the shutters are reversed by the guardians of the museum; so that those which were exposed in the morning are turned to the wall in the afternoon, and visiters have an oppor- tunity of seeing both:—7th, John the Baptist. 8th, Portrait of Jodocus Vyts, Burgomaster of Ghent, for whom the picture was painted; the expression of piety and devotion in the countenance is most truthfully depicted. 9th and 10th, The Annunciation, the Angel Gabriel and the Virgin. 11 th, Eliza- beth, wife of Jodocus Vyts. 12tli, St. John the Evangelist. These admirable pictures were finished 1432. — Hans Mending, a series of paintings obtained from a convent in Mechlin. The Birth of Christ.—The Sybil of Tibur an- nouncing .the Birth of Christ to Au- gustus.—The three Kings adoring the Saviour. — Elijah fed by Angels. — The Crucifixion: nothing can exceed the softness and minute finish of the female faces, while the expression of grief in the Virgin and Magdalen is most true to nature. Lucas Cranach; portrait of Melanc- thon; portrait of Luther, with musta- chios, as the Junker (Squire) George, taken while he was concealed in the castle of the Wartburg : interesting. — Hans Holbein; portrait of George Gyzen, a merchant of London. Christopher Amberger; portrait of the geographer Sebastian Miinster____Quen- tin Matsys; Virgin and Child. Rubens ; The Resurrection of Laza- rus.—The Daughter of the painter.— St. Cecilia. — Helena Forman, his 2d wife. — The Entombment of Christ. Van Dyk; portrait of Prince Thomas of Carignan. — Portrait of a Daughter350 ROUTE 61.---BERLIN. ROYAL LIBRARY. Sect. Y. of Charles I. in a blue dress, with a white lace apron, beautifully painted. Had Sir Joshua known this picture, the Blue Boy of Gainsborough need not have been painted. — St. John Baptist and St. John Evangelist. — Portraits of the Children of Charles I. with a Dog. — Three Penitent Sinners before the Virgin and Child. Teniers ; Peasants in an alehouse.— The Temptation of St. Anthony, a very humorous picture: there is a great deal of whim and drollery in the devils. Under the figure of the Saint, Teniers has portrayed himself; the younger woman is his wife, with a little bit of a devil’s tail peeping from under her gown; the old woman was his mother- in-law, a more decided devil, with horns and claws. Rembrandt; Portrait of Duke Adolph of Gueldres, shaking his clinched fist at his father—a master-piece of the artist: a powerful representation of uncurbed passion. Jacob Ruisdael; a sea-piece. Jan Both ; a landscape with a hunting party. De Heem; a flower and fruit piece. Frans Snyders; a bear hunt. Balthazar Benner; a portrait of a man, admirably executed, was purchased for 10,000 dol- lars (about 1500/.). Two considerable divisions of the gallery are occupied with works of the earliest period of art, which may be regarded as the antiquities of painting, and are almost exclusively interesting, in an historical point of view, as illus- trating the progress of the art. They consist of Byzantine, Italian, and early Flemish works. In the rear of the Museum, and con- nected with it by a covered bridge carried over the street upon columns, is the New Museum, designed by Stiller. The ground floor is to con- tain ethnological antiquities, in rooms whose architecture accords with the objects they contain. Here will be placed the collection of Egyptian an- tiquities now in the Palace of Monbijou. These rooms are decorated with faith- ful imitations of genuine examples of Egyptian decoration, copied on -the spot. In this part of the museum is an Egyptian hypaethral atrium, with colonnades at the sides. The rooms on the first floor are to contain a valuable and extensive col- lection of casts. The second floor will contain the collections of engravings and draw- ings- The principal staircase is to be deco- rated with a series of colossal statues and frescoes, — the latter by Kaulbach. It has a magnificent timber roof. The Royal Library (entrance in the Opern-Platz), a tasteless building, which owes its shape, it is said, to a whim of Frederick the Great, who desired the architect to take a chest of drawers for his model, contains about 500,000 vols. and nearly 5000 MSS. It is shown to strangers on application to the Librarian, Wed. and Sat., 10— 12. Among its curiosities are — Lu- ther’s Hebrew Bible, the copy from which he made his translation, with marginal notes in his own hand. The MS. of his translation of the Psalms, with his corrections in red ink. The Bible and Prayer-book which Charles I. carried to the scaffold, and gave before his death to Bishop Juxon : Gutemberg’s Bible of 42 lines in a page, (on parchment, date 1450—55,) the first book on which moveable type was used. A consular diptych of ivory with reliefs, date 416, one of the ear- liest known. The Codex Wittekindii, a MS. of the 4 gospels, given, it is said, bjr Charlemagne to Wittekind (?) ; it is of the 9th or 10th century, and the ivory carvings in the binding are in the style called Byzantine. Several Ivories (diptychs) of the earliest Chris- tian times, and of Roman work. An album, with 6 beautiful miniature por- traits by Luke Cranach ; among them are his friends Luther, Melancthon, and the Elector John Frederick of Saxony. 36 vols. of engraved portraits of dis- tinguished men of various times and countries, accompanied by autographs in alphabetical order. Two hemi. spheres of metal, with which' Otto Guericke made the experiments which led him to discover the air-pump, are also preserved here. When he hadPrussia, route 61.—Berlin, university, museums. 351 exhausted the air between them, he found that the force, of SO horses was unable to separate them. The Public Reading-room of the Li- brary, where books may be consulted, is open daily. Inhabitants of Berlin, and even resident strangers properly recommended, are allowed to take books home with them under certain restrictions. There is a private reading- room on the ground-floor, in which the new books and principal journals of Europe are deposited. Admission can he obtained by a ticket from one of the head Librarians, which is only given to persons known to them. It is open daily from 10 to 12. The University (Unt. den Linden) established in 1809, possesses a high reputation from the talent of its teach- ers and a better system of discipline than Jena and Heidelberg. It ranks among the first academical establishments in Germany, especially as a medical school, and is the most numerously attended (after that of Vienna), the students amounting to 1500. The Museum of Natural History is within the 1. wing of the building. The Zoological Collection is open Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 2; tickets are given out the day previous by the Di- rector of the Museum. This collection is one of the richest and most extensive in Europe, especially in the depart- ment of Ornithology; it includes the birds collected by Pallas and Wilde- now, and the fishes of Bloch. The best specimens are those from Mexico, the lied Sea, and the Cape. The whole is exceedingly well arranged and named for the convenience of students. The Minerals are shown at the same hours, by tickets given by the director who resides in the house. Among the curiosities of this collection are — a piece of amber weighing 13 lbs. 15oz., the largest known, and worth 10,000 dollars; it was found in a field, at a place called Schlappacken, 20 Germ, in. from the Baltic. Malachite from Russia. Topazes of two distinct co- lours, yellow and amethystine. A mass of platina, weighing 1088 grains, and a splendid fiery opal, both brought from South America by Alex, von Hum*, boldt. A large portion of the collec- tions made by him during his travels in America and Asia are deposited here. The Anatomical Museum in the rt. wing will be highly appreciated by the medical student; it is one of the best in Europe, particularly rich in pre- parations of human and comparative anatomy. It is shown Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 4 till 6 in summer,— 2 to 4 in winter, by tickets. The Botanic Garden, belonging to the University, outside of the town, is described p. 355. The Egyptian Museum is in a wing of the Palace of Monbijou, occupied by Peter the Great while at Berlin, much to the loss of the reigning queen, to whom it belonged, as the filthy and violent habits of her Russian guest greatly injured it. It is destined to be removed to the new Museum, where it will be better arranged. The collection of Egyptian antiquities now placed in it was formed by M. Passalacqua and General Minutoli, and is one of the most curious in Europe. Admission is given to the public every Thurs. from 10—4. Strangers and men of science can obtain access at other times on ap- plying to the Directors. In addition to mummies, scarabaei, statues of Apis, coins, &c. which may be found in other cabinets, there exists here a collection of arms, implements used_ in various arts; utensils of all sorts, &c., highly illustrative of the whole household economy of the Egyp- tian nation, as it existed some thousand years ago, all in such perfect preserva- tion as to give a wonderful insight into the state of arts, and habits, condition and civilization of the Egyptians at that remote period. Specimens of the produce of a great many trades are here to be seen. Gar- ments nearly as fine as muslin ; a pair of braces! said, by Champollion, to have belonged- to an Egyptian monarch; sandals ; a medicine chest filled with drugs, in alabaster phials, is also sup- posed to have belonged to a king. By the side of the figures of the352 ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. ARSENAL. Sect. V. various Egyptian deities are placed the symbols belonging to each, worn, it is supposed, as amulets on the person. Among them is a beetle, with the head of a sphinx. An assortment of the vari- ous kinds of cloth and linen found upon the mummies shows great perfection in the art of spinning and weaving. The objects for the decoration of the person include mirrors of brass, pins of brass and ivory, necklaces, one of which was borrowed by the Duchess of Berry to wear at a Parisian fancy ball. Spe- cimens are shown of the various balsams and asphaltum used in embalming. It is a curious fact that mummies are now imported into Europe for the use of apothecaries and painters, on account of the bitumen they contain. The in- struments used in embalming,—the Ethiopian knives of sharpened flint, and the brass hooks with which the brain was extracted through the nos- trils, are perhaps peculiar to this col- lection. It would be tedious to give more than a slight enumeration of other objects, such as arms, spears, bows and arrows, &c.; a plough ; a spindle; dis- taff, and comb for flax; measures of rope and wood divided by knots or notches; a painter’s palette and paint- box, with sliding lid. 7 different co- lours are preserved here. Herodotus mentions only 4. Part are placed in small shells, as is the modern practice. Writing materials; architect’s appa- ratus; dice; weights; sandals, and shoes of leather and palm-leaves; fishing nets, with floats formed of calabashes; mu- sical instruments; the flute and sis- trum; mummies of the sacred animals worshipped by the Egyptians, as cals, fish, serpents, young crocodiles, frogs, ibises, lizards, all embalmed and wrapped in cloths; a human monster, without brain or spine, embalmed. It has been described by Geoffrey St. Hilaire. Perhaps the most curious objects in the whole collection are the contents of the tomb of an Egyptian high-priest, dis- covered and opened by Passalacqua in the Necropolis of Thebes. The body was enclosed in a triple coffin. By the side of it were deposited the sacred wand or priest’s rod, the skull and leg- bones of an ox, branches of sycamore, and 2 models of Egyptian vessels (such as navigated the Nile 3000 years ago), neatly finished, and completely rigged, having on board a dead body, and a party of mourners accompanying it to the tomb. “In another wing of Monbijou is a collection of Barbarous German An- tiquities, celts, arrow heads, arms, &c., and a large bronze idol of the Sun, (Thor?) found at Collin, which is pro- bably rather Sclavonic than Teutonic. A catalogue is much wanted.”—F. S. In Monbijou is also the Royal Ca- binet of Drawings and Engravings, containing cartoons of Raphael, and a fac-simile of the original architectural drawing for the Dom of Cologne. The Arsenal (Zeughaus), esteemed a building of almost faultless archi- tecture, was erected in 1695. Above the windows round the inner court are 22 masks, admirably carved in stone by Scliliiter, representing the human face in the agonies of death. On the ground-floor are cannon and artillery of various kinds, such as 2 leather guns, used by the Great Gustavus in the 30 years’ war; a field-piece named die Schone Taube (beautiful dove); a da- masked cannon; 2 Turkish pieces. On the first floor are ranged 100,000 stand of arms. These apartments form a kind of Military Museum. Specimens of the arms and accoutrements used in every army in Europe are deposited here. There are fire-arms, from those used at the first invention of gunpowder, to the most perfect made in the present day. Many ancient weapons and suits of ar- mour—one suit belonged to Francis I.; 7 bunches of the keys of captured fortresses—some taken from theFrench. A standard, and the key of Adrianople, taken from the Turks by the Russians in the last war, and presented by their emperor. Against the walls and pillars are hung nearly 1000 stand of colours, chiefly French, and bearing the dates and emblems of the Revolution. They were captured by the Prussians in Paris, 1815. In consequence of the plunder of the arsenal during the riots of March, 1848, some of the interest-Prussia, route 61. — Berlin. PALACES. ACADEMIES. 353 ing objects formerly to be seen here may be missing. Admission, by tickets, which may be had at the War Office (Kriegs ministerium) Leipziger Strasse, No. 5, and which the valet de place will procure. The Palace of Prince Carl, 9. Wil- helms-Platz, fitted up by Schinkel, contains' a very choice and valuable col- lection of armour. A shield of beaten silver, with raised groups in the style of B. Cellini,jand the Kaiserstuhl, an arm- chair of bronze, from the Dom in Gos- lar, deserve mention. The Palace of Prince Albert, 102, Wilhelms Strasse, also arranged by Schinkel, is a handsome building, and it is shown to strangers. The Palace of Prinz Wilhelm of Prus- sia, brother to the king and heir pre- sumptive, Unter den Linden, close to the library, contains some elegant apart- ments. Count Raczynshi's Gallery has been purchased by the king, and placed in a new building, on the Exercier-Platz, outside the Brandenburg Gate. It contains interesting specimens of mo- dern German art: the finished Sketch of Kaulbach's Battle of the Huns ; a Sposalizio, hy Overbeck; Sohn's Two Leonoras ; Leopold Robert's last work, &c. ; Cornelius's Christ in Limbo. The house of Cornelius, built for him by the king, is near this. In the Schloss Bellevue, m. outside the Brandenburg Gate, is a collection of modern paintings belonging to the King, which is shown Tues. and Fri., 10—1 and 2—6. Consul Wagner, 5, Briider-str. has a very fine collection of paintings of modem German schools, which he readily allows to he seen. The Iron Foundry (Eisengiesserei), outside of the Oranienburg-gate. A great variety of articles, as busts, sta- tues, bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, monumental slabs, joists, beams, and rafters for houses, and even bells, are cast here. At the time when the final struggle commenced between Prussia and Na- poleon, the patriotism of the Prussian ladies was particularly conspicuous. With the noblest generosity they sent their jewels and trinkets’ to the royal treasury to assist in furnishing funds for the expense of the campaign. Rings, crosses, and other ornaments of cast iron, made in this manufactory, were given in return to all those who had made this sacrifice. They bore the in- scription “ Ich gab Gold um Eisen" (1 gave gold for iron), and such Spar- tan jewels are, at this day, much trea- sured by the possessors and their fami- lies. The black varnish with which the iron ware is covered, to prevent rust, is made of amber dissolved, and mixed with lamp black. The China Manufactory was founded by Frederick the Great; the painting is very good, but the porcelain is rather thick and heavy. The quality of the clay is not good, but great pains is taken to purify it by passing it through a number of vats. The Taub- Stummen-Institut, Institu- tion for instructing the deaf and dumb, situated in the Linien Strasse, Nos. 81 and 82, is a very interesting esta- blishment. The Academy of Fine Arts, Unter den Linden, was placed by Frederick the Great above the Royal Stables ; hence some one proposed to inscribe over the door “ Musis et Mulis.” An exhibition of modern works takes place here annually between September and December. The Gewerbe Schule, School for Trade, is an establishment of a kind only re- cently introduced into Great Britain : it is a school for instructing gratui- tously promising young artisans in drawing, modelling, and other branches of the fine arts calculated to be of prac- tical use, in their trade, with a view of improving the designs of articles of furniture and patterns in stuffs of all sorts, and the like. The Architectural Academy (Bau- Schule) S. of the Schloss-briicke, esta- blished under the direction of Schinkel, is one of the most original constructions of thatgifted architect, now no more. It is of red brick, and the external orna- ments are of the same material, i. e. of terra cotta, or clay moulded and baked. Within may be seen some paintings354 ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. THEATRES. MUSIC. Sect. V. and sculpture by Schinkel, for he was also distinguished in the sister arts. The Studios of some of the Berlin artists deserve to be visited, particularly those of the sculptors Rauch and Tieck in the Lager Haus, and the painter Kruger. Theatres. — 1. Italian Opera House, rebuilt 1845, after a fire, is a building of great splendour near the Linden. In it, German and Italian operas, the national drama, and tragedy and co- medy, are performed, generally 3 or 4 times a-week alternately with the Schauspielhaus, though in winter the Opera is open every day : it holds 2000 spectators. The Box-office of the Opera House is not in that building, but in the lower story of the Schauspielhaus, where tickets are given out for both theatres. Opera begins at 6£. 2. New Play House (Schauspielhaus) built by Schinkel, in 1819, lies between the two-churches in the Gens d’Armes Platz. It is decorated with a good deal of sculpture, by Rauch and Tieck, representing mythological subjects_____ The performances consist of German and French plays alternately ; an ex- cellent French company resides here permanently. “ It is a great treat to see a Greek tragedy, such as the An- tigone of Sophocles, performed here; the stage and theatre being fitted up as nearly as possible in the ancient Gre- cian classic style.”—De S. The stage is on the second floor of the building, so that it is necessary to go up stairs even into the pit; adjoining it, is the Concert Room, holding 1200 persons, much admired for its architectural pro- portions, and the taste of its deco- rations. Besides Concerts, a certain number of Subscription Balls take place here in winter. The king and royal family are often present. Be- gins at 6. 3. Kbnigstddtisches Theater, near the Konigsbrucke.' Begins at 6. Music. See § 42. The Sing Academie is a private asso- ciation of from 200 to 300 amateurs, male and female, of the respectable and upper classes, who meet together to practise, every week during the whole year, and give annually several delight- ful concerts, to which the public are admitted in the tasteful Grecian Build- ing of the Academy, designed by Ott- mar, behind the Grand Guardhouse. The performance of sacred vocal music is probably not carried to greater per- fection in any part of Europe ; the strength of the chorus, and the perfeet precision and unity of so many voices is very striking. This institution has been imitated in the Exeter Hall Asso- ciation in London, The Coliseum, Alte Jacob’s Strasse, No. 51, is a very handsome Ball-room, designed principally for the Bourgeoisie to dance in, but often visited by the upper classes, as lookers on. The Winter Gardens are coffee- houses under glass ; — conservatories filled with exotic plants, provided with tables for refreshments, and newspapers. They are splendid and popular esta- blishments,where excellent dinners, mu- sic, &c. are provided. The best is Kroll’s, in the Thiergarten, answering to the Yolksgarten in Vienna, where evening concerts are given. The ices are good. There is a table d’hote on Sundays, at 15 Sgr. a head. Restaurateurs, where dinner and sup- per are served a la carte. The best are Mielentz’s (formerly Jagor’s), No. 28, and Meinhardt’s, or Cafe Royal (very superior cuisine), No. 33, Unter den Linden. ( Meinhardt’s is now a very good hotel, with an excellent table d’hote.) Tietz, 25, U. d. Linden. Stagge (Cafe Belvedere), near the Ca- tholic Ch. Cafe de la Gaite, Charlotten Strasse, 60. Peculiar delicacies of the Berlin cuisine are the Sandra, or pike- perch, a very delicate fresh-water fish, Teltower Riiben (very small and sweet turnips, resembling parsnips in shape, from Teltow, a neighbouring village). 3 or 4 is the fashionable hour of dinner in Berlin. The Merchant's Club is over the Ex- change, to which a banker will intro- duce you to read the papers. An introduction from the English minis- ter will procure admission to the Club of Nobles. The Confectioners' shops (Condito-Prussia. ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. ENVIRONS. 355 reien), corresponding nearly with the cafes of Paris, supplying ice, coffee, newspapers, &c., become the general lounge and resort about I or 2 o’clock, it being a usual practice here to take a cup of chocolate in the middle of the day. The best are Stekelys, 36, Char- lotten Strasse, behind the Schauspiel- haus, where French, German, and En- glish Journals, including the Times and Galignani, are taken in. Josti, 1. Stechbahn (good bon bons) ; — Kranz- ler, 25, U. d. Linden (capital ice); Fuchs, 8, U. d. Linden, superbly fitted up by Schinkel and Stiiler; Spargna- pani, U. d. Linden, 50 ; Koblank, 44. The lower classes resort to the wine and beer-houses (Bierlokale), which, in splendour, may vie with the gin palaces of London, and are nearly as much crowded, and as injurious to . public health and morals. The best are (where men sup after the theatre),— for Berlin Weissbier, Volpi, Stechbahn, 3, and Mohren Strasse, 37 a.; Klausing, Zim- mer Strasse, 80; — for Bavarian beer, Happold, Grim Strasse, 1; Wallmiiller, Jiiger Strasse, 33. “ The porters of Berlin are a pe- culiar race, celebrated all over Ger- many. They are called ‘ Eckensteher,' from their habit of collecting at the Corners (Ecken) of the streets (like their Highland brethren in Edinburgh). They have a badge on their arm, and are readily known by their original humour. They bandy sharp words, in their peculiar Berlin dialect, with great effect. Nante Strumpf, the Sam Weller of Berlin, has been made the representative of this class.”— Howitt. The best shops are in the Unter den Linden, Schloss Platz, Breite Strasse, in the Bau-schule, and between the Schloss and the Opera House, Konigs Strasse, and Behren Strasse. Among the articles peculiar to Berlin, and best worth purchasing, are the trinkets, ornaments, busts, bas-reliefs, &c. of cast iron; the pictures in transparent China (Lithophanies). Gropius Bazaar, Ge- orgen Strasse, No. 12, is worth a visit. Pistor and Martins, the best makers of philosophical instruments, 34, Mauer Strasse, sell admirable microscopes. iS’cAropp,map-seller, 24, Jager Strasse, publishes good maps, a geological map of Europe, a chart of the moon, and many others of gTeat excellence and use to travellers. Railroads' Termini — to Potzdam, Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the Potzdam Gate; — to Leipzig and Dres- den, outside the Anhalt Gate; — to Hamburg, outside the New Gate; — to Stettin, outside the Oranienburg Gate; — to Frankfurt on the Oder and Breslau, near the Stralauer Platz. Schnellposts to Danzig, Kdnigsberg, Posen, Rostock. The office (Melde- zimmer, § 33, 46.), in the inner court of the Post-office, Konigs St., No. 60, and Spandauer St., 19—22, is open from 7 a.m. to 8 P.M. Environs. — The gates of the city were originally named after the places to which they led, but the great lines of high roads have been so much changed, that it is not now the Halle Gate, but the Potzdam Gate, which leads to Halle, nor the Hamburg Gate which leads thither, but the Branden- burg Gate; and to proceed into Silesia you issue out of the Frankfurt, not the Silesian Gate. At Tegel, 7 m. beyond the Oranien- burg Gate, is the seat of the late Wm. von Humboldt. In the garden is a monument to bis wife, a statue of Hope upon a pillar, the work of Thorwaldsen. In the churchyard outside of the Ora- nienburg Gate, are buried Fichte, Hegel, and Schinkel. About l£ mile outside of the Potz- dam Gate, near the village of Schone- berg, is the Botanic Garden. The conservatories and palmhouses are on a large scale. Palms are seen growing in them to a height of nearly 30 ft. It is open to the public on Friday. Strangers may obtain admission at other times. Outside the Halle Gate, in the Belle- Alliance-Platz, rises the Friedens Eenk- mal, a pillar of granite, surmounted by Victory, by' Rauch, erected 1840, to commemorate the Peace which had then lasted 25 years. About £ a mile beyond the Halle Gate is a low sandhill called the356 ROUTE 61.--BERLIN. CHARLOTTENBURG. Sect. V. Kreutzberg, almost the only eminence near Berlin, and commanding a toler- able view of it. It is named from a Gothic Cross of cast iron upon its sum- mit, called Volks Denkmal (People's Monument), erected by the late king, as a memorial of Prussia’s recovery of independence from the French, and thus inscribed: “ The King to his peo- ple, who at his call nobly offered life and property to their country ; a monu- ment to the fallen ; an acknowledgment to the living; an example to posterity.” Schinkel designed it, and Rauch and Tieck executed the statues of Prus- sian warriors in the niches, and the bas-reliefs representing the principal victories gained by the Prussians — as Gross Gorschen, Leipsig, Katzbach, Paris, Belle Alliance. The whole was cast in the Royal Iron Foundry. Upon the slope of the Kreutzberg is Tivoli, a sort of Vauxhall Garden, in- cluding a Russian Mountain, down which visitors descend in cars. There is a ball-room for waltzing, and numerous boxes, in which the crowd may be seen taking refreshments. Immediately beyond the Branden- burg Gate commences the Park ( Thier- garten), an extensive plantation, inter- spersed with flower beds, with open spaces here and there, and ponds, coffee-houses, &c., among them, not unlike the Champs Elysees at Paris, and equally dull, except when thronged with people on a fine Sunday after- noon. Half an hour’s drive beyond the Brandenburg Gate, behind the Hof- jagers, is the Zoological Garden, con- taining the Royal Menagerie, once at the Pfauen Insel. It resembles that in the Regent’s Park. It is open daily ; admission 5 Sgr. N. B. “ Man hiite sich vor Taschendieben”—beware of pick-pockets! Two excursions should on no account be omitted—one to Charlottenburg, which will not take more than 3 hours,—the other to Potzdam, about 19 m. Rail- road trains go thither 6 times a-day. Rte. 62. Excursion to Charlottenburg. — The road thither about 3 m. long, passes through the Brandenburg Gate, and forms a long straight avenue through the Thiergarten, bordered as it ap- proaches Charlottenburg, by many country houses of the citizens. Charlottenburg itself is a small village on the Spree, made up chiefly of villas and taverns, the summer resi- dence of the rich, and the summer re- sort of the humbler classes from Berlin. The Palace (Schloss) “was built by Frederick I., who married an English princess, Sophia Charlotte, daughter of George I., which will account for the English aspect of its interior. Many rooms are furnished with taste and magnificence. Here are several good pieces of sculpture, as a head of our Sa- viour by Rauch.”—Ld. F. The Gar- dens behind it are exceedingly pretty, and are at all times open to the public. The entrance to them is through tho Orangery, at the extremity of which is the Theatre, where the Berlin com- pany performs generally twice a-week, in summer. The gardens are the great resort of Sunday strollers from Berlin. They are prettily laid out, varied by the windings of the Spree, and by sheets of water, abounding in carp of large size and great age. Visitors are in the habit of feeding them with crumbs, and collect them together by the ringing of a bell, at the sound of which the fish may be seen in shoals, popping their noses out of the water. The object of greatest interest at Charlottenburg is the monument of Louisa Queen of Prussia, the most beautiful and amiable, and at the same time unfortunate princess of her day. She is buried within a small Doric temple, at the extremity of a shady walk, in a retired part of the garden. The Castellan residing in the palacd keeps the key, and will show the mo- nument to strangers. It is allowed to be the master-piece of the sculptor, Rauch. The figure of the queen re- poses on a marble sarcophagus. It is a form and face of the most exquisite beauty, but, at the same time, a most perfect resemblance. “ The expression is not that of dull cold death, but of undisturbed repose. The hands are modestly folded on the breast; the atti-Prussia. ROUTE 62. — BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG. 357 tude is easy, graceful, and natural. Only the countenance and part of the neck are bare, the rest of the figure is shrouded in an ample and extremely well-wrought drapery. The great charm of the figure is the decent, sim- ple, tranquil air, without any striving after effect. I observed no inscription — no pompous catalogue of her titles— no parading eulogy of her virtues ; the Prussian eagle alone, at the foot of the sarcophagus, announces; that she be- longed to the house of Hohenzollern, and the 7 withered garlands which still hang above her, were the first offerings of her children at the grave of their mother.” — Russell. The late king is buried i here by the side of his queen. A recumbent statue of him “ with his martial cloak around him,” by Rauch, is placed beside that of his queen. On St. Bartholomew’s day (Aug. 24.) a popular festival takes place at Stralow, a small village on the left bank of the Spree, and right of the lake of Rummelsburg. It is called the Fishery ( Fischzug), and originated in the practice of dragging the waters with nets on that day 3 times; 1st, for the benefit of the magistrates; 2dly, for the minister; 3dly, for the elders of the village. It is a favourite ex- cursion with the Berliners to proceed by water to the scene of action, where a great fair is held on the river banks, and to dine on fish. In the course of the autumn, gene- rally in September, a Grand Review of the garrison takes place in the neigh- bourhood of Berlin : 20,000 troops are sometimes collected, and the ma- noeuvres last several days. “ To see the reviews to advantage a uniform is desirable, though not absolutely neces- sary. A good horse warranted to stand fire may be hired for a leuis a day ; with these you may ride on the ground and join the staff, which sometimes amounts to 500 officers of all nations. The reviews are generally held on the ground near the Kreutzberg. The field manoeuvres usually take place between Charlottenburg, Spandau, and Potzdam. They last several days, the regiments bivouacking at night. The operations begin each day about 9. Ladies in carriages are enabled to see the whole by the good arrangement of the gendarmerie. A carriage with a pair of horses may be hired for the day at 5 thalers (15s.).”—T. R. S. ROUTE 62. BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG, BV POTZDAM AND BRANDENBURG______RAILWAY. 18^ Pruss. m. = 85^ Eng. m. Trains to Potzdam six times a day, in 45 minutes. To Magdeburg 3 trains daily in hours; Terminus (Bahnhof) outside the Potzdam Gate. The line proceeds past country-seats, taverns, and coffee- houses, the resort of the citizens, leaving on the rt. the Botanic Gardens and village of Schoneberg, in sight of the iron cross on the Kreutzberg on the left, to 2 Zehlendorf Stat.—Beyond this the road passes through a wood of firs. About 2 m. before reaching Potzdam, on the right, is the Peacock Island (Pfauen-Insel), surrounded by the Havel. It was a favourite summer retreat of the late king of Prussia, originally a rabbit-warren, but con- verted into pleasure-grounds. The scenery of the lake itself is picturesque, more especially when contrasted with the monotonous sandy plains round Berlin. The Peacock Island has been allowed to fall somewhat into neglect since the death of the late king. 3£ Potzdam Stat. — Inns : Einsied- ler (Hermit) ; Deutsches Haus (Ger- man House); Goldner Adler. There is a good Restaurant at the Bahnhof. M. Scholtz is recommended as a good guide to Potzdam and its neighbourhood, being honest and well informed. He is to be heard of at the Einsiedler. Potzdam, the Prussian Versailles, lies on the rt. bank of the Havel, which here expands into a lake, with finely wooded, picturesque, sloping banks; it has 33,255 inbab., including a large garrison. Founded by the Great Elec- tor of Brandenburg, it became the re- sidence of the Prussian Princes during358 ROUTE 62. — POTZDAM. SANS SOUCI. Sect. y. the rising fortunes of the Royal house, but it owes all its splendour to Fre- derick the Great. It may be called a town of palaces, not only from the 4 Royal residences in and about it, but because even the private houses are copied from celebrated edifices, each of which may comprise within it the dwellings of many families. The dul- ness of the streets, indeed, often con- trasts singularly with the splendour of their architecture. The 4 Palaces (that in the town, Sans Souci, the Neue Palais, and Charlottenhof) can be seen in 3 hours, by taking a drosky and com- missionaire from the railway station. The principal buildings are, The Gamison Kirche (Ch. of the Garrison). Frederick the Great is buried beneath the pulpit, in a plain metal sarcophagus above ground. His sword, originally laid upon it, was carried off by Napoleon, and all traces of it are lost; but over the tomb, on each side of the pulpit, now hang the eagles and standards taken from Napoleon’s armies by the Prussians: a fitting retribution, and as it were an atonement, to the shade of the hero for this paltry theft. The other coffin of marble, in the same vault, is that of William I. Around the walls of the church, tablets inscribed with the names of the brdve soldiers who distinguished themselves, and pe- rished during the war of Liberation, are suspended. The New Ch. or Nicholaikirche, op- posite the Schloss, built, 1830-37, by Schinkel, is of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a dome. The fronton of the portico, and the soffit of the chief door, are ornamented with bas- reliefs of the Resurrection and Sermon on the Mount, but the outside is not very successful. The interior is splen- did, decorated with fresco paintings on a gold ground, of the 12 Apostles, &c., by the first artists of Berlin and Dusseldorf. The ornamental cornices, the capitals of the columns, the pulpit, and the balustrades; are of zinc, which is cheaper, because more easily cast than iron, and strong enough. The Royal Palace, within the town, contains little worth seeing, except the apartments of the great Frederick, which remain nearly as they were when he was alive. Here are shown his writing-table, blotted all over with ink, his ink-stand, music-stand, piano, with music composed by himself in his own writing, green eye-shade, book-case filled with French works, and the chairs and sofa which he used, their silken covers nearly torn off by the claws of his dogs, and stained with the marks of the plates from which they were fed. The truck bed on which he slept, de- spising any more comfortable couch, stood behind the silver balustrades, but has been removed because it was worn out, and almost pulled to pieces by relic-hunters. Adjoining the bed-room is a small cabinet with double doors, provided with a table which ascends and descends through a trap-door in the floor, while plates and dishes were removed by another trap-door. Here the monarch could dine tete-a-tete with a friend, without being overheard or overlooked, while the dinner was served without requiring the presence of a servant. The singular smoking club, or Tabacks-Collegium, established by Frederick the Great’s father, used to hold its eccentric and boisterous meet- ings in the building called Haus am Bassin. Potzdam is the birth-place of the late king of Prussia, to whom a statue by Kiss has been set up in the Wil- helms-platz, and of the distinguished traveller and philosopher Alexander von Humboldt. The view from the Brauhausberg should not be passed over; it includes Potzdam and all its numerous palaces, the intricate windings of the Havel, and the beautiful green islands which it encircles,—-a very pleasing prospect. Sans Souci. — The Gardens begin a few hundred yards outside of the Bran- denburg Gate, W. of Potzdam. They are laid out in the stiff formal French taste, with alleys, cut hedges, statues, basins, &c., and have lately been put into perfect order. A broad avenue runs through them ; at the extremity of it lies the New Palace. Near to Potzdam, and on the right of thePrussia. ROUTE 62. —POTZDAM. SANS SOUOI. 359 avenue, is the Palace of Sans Souci, b. 1745-47, by Frederick the Great, on the top of a flight of step-like terraces. They are fronted with glass, beneath which grow vines, olives, and orange-trees. Frederick, who took much pride in his gardens and hot- beds, complained once to the Prince de Ligne of the climate and soil under which his orange-trees and vines were pining. “ Sire,” replied the courtier, “ it appears that with you nothing thrives but your laurels.” The Palace, recently restored and fitted up as a residence for the present King, but without altering its original character, stands on the highest terrace ; it is a low, and not a handsome building, but the colonnade behind is fine. At the extremities of this terrace are the graves of Frederick’s favourite dogs, and of his horse that carried him through many of his battles. By his will he directed that he himself should be buried among them, an injunction which was not complied with. This spot was the favourite resort of the old warrior: here he was brought out in his arm- chair, surrounded by his dogs, a short while before his decease, to bask in the sun. “ Je serai bientot plus pres de lui,” were nearly his last words. With- in the building may be seen his bed- room, where he breathed his last; a clock, which he always wound up with his own hand, hut which, being for- gotten at last, stopped at the moment of his death, and still points to the hour of his decease, 20 minutes past 2. A portrait of Gustavus Adolphus hangs on the wall, its sole ornament; the bed and arm-chair of Frederick have been removed. Voltaire’s apartment is also pointed out at some distance from that of his Royal Host; its walls are co- vered with figures of monkeys and parrots. In the gallery hang some paintings by Watteau. On the right and left of the palace, but in separate buildings, are the state apartments, and the Picture Gallery; but all the best pictures are removed to Berlin, ipuch time need not be wasted upon it. Among those that remain is one to- lerable picture, a Virgin and Child, by Rubens, and there are many by his pupils and imitators, Pan Tidden and the like, of inferior merit and value. Frederick the Great was not satisfied with his reputation as a general ; he must be considered a man of taste, and a judge and patron of art; and as he know nothing about it, and still would possess a picture gallery, he was most egregiously cheated and imposed upon by the agents and picture dealers whom he employed ; paying enormous sums for worthless pictures, and re- jecting others of very high merit. Thus a painting of Lot and his Daugh- ters, sold to him for SO,000 ducats, as a Raphael of the highest excellence, turns out to be the work of a second- rate Flemish master, Floris, and worth not more than 501. He rejected the Holbein now in the Dresden Gallery, which is esteemed the best work of that master. Isaac blessing Jacob, attri- buted to Vandyk, is a picture of no value, and Titian’s Venus is so seri- ously damaged and repaired as to have no traces of the painter whose name it bears. The famous Windmill of Sans Souci stands close behind the palace, and still belongs to the descendants of the miller who refused to yield it up to Frederick, when he wanted to pull it down and include the ground in his own gardens, which are rather confined on that side. “ The original mill was a very small one; but after Frederick lost the law- suit against the miller, he erected for him the present one on a much larger scale.” Some years ago adverse cir- cumstances compelled the owner of the mill to make up his mind to part with it. He in consequence offered it for sale to the late king, who, instead of availing himself of the opportunity, generously settled on the miller a sum sufficient to extricate him from his difficulties, and enable him to maintain himself in his property; saying that the mill now belonged to Prussian his- tory, and was in a manner a national monument. The broad walk, before mentioned, leads from the foot of the terraces of Sans Souci to the New Palace (Neue360 ROUTE 62.--POTZDAM. CHARLOTTENHOF. Sect. V. Palais), about two miles from Potz- dam, a vast brick building erected at enormous cost by Frederick, by way of bravado, at the end of the Seven Years’ War, to show his enemies that bis finances were not exhausted. It was built in six years, between 1763 and 1769, on a spot previously a morass. It contains 200 apartments, and ex- hibits many remains of gaudy magni- ficence ; marble has been most pro- fusely lavished on the walls and floors; and one large apartment is lined en- tirely with shells and minerals, in very bad taste. There are still some toler- able paintings by Schneyders, and one or two very excellent Luca Giordanos. In the small library is a copy of the works of Frederick the Great, “ Des CEuvres Melees du Philosophe de Sans Souci. Avec privilege d’Apollon.” This copy is a curiosity, as it contains many notes in the hand-Vritirig of Vol- taire, some of them severe and cutting criticisms. Thus, finding the word plat in three or four consecutive lines of the same poem, he writes “ Voici plus de plats que dans un trcs bon souper.” At another place he writes, “ S’il faut conserver cette epigramme, il faut la tourner tout autrement.” He points out a piece of false grammar thus, “ On ne dit pas louer a.” The remarks, however, are not all in this cutting tone, and in other parts the margin is plentifully sprinkled with “ admirable,” “ rien de mieux ; ” while at the end of one of Frederick’s letters is written, “ Que d’esprit! de grace, d’imagination ! qu’il est doux de vivre aux pieds d’un tel homme !" The offices for servants attached to the New Palace are now converted into barracks for the trained infantry — a draft from every regiment in the Prussian service —who are instructed and replaced every year by fresh corps, the old ones being distributed through the army to intro- duce uniformity in the drill and regu- lations. Sans Souci. Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday the Waterworks play. The main fountain rises in a jet 130 feet high. The Gardens abound in temples, pa- godas, &c. In the building called the Antique Temple is a statue of the late Queen of Prussia. It is an improve- ment on that at Charlottenburg, the result of 15 years’ thought and study on the part of the sculptor, Rauch : it is even more beautiful and touching. It is no larger than life, and represents her asleep. The view from the Chinese Tower on the height is extensive and pleasing. A new church in the style of a basilica has been built on the mar- gin of the park. Within the gardens of Sans Souci stands Charlottenhfif, a villa of the pre- sent king, built by him when crown prince, in the style of a Pompeian dwelling; following as nearly as pos- sible the arrangement and dimensions of the houses of Pompeii. It exhibits the utmost taste and elegance. In the beautiful garden is an exact imitation of a Pompeian bath, built for use as well as ornament, and beautifully deco- rated with frescoes. The fountains, an antique altar, and several statues and bronze, were brought from Hercula- neum or Pompeii. N. of Potzdam lies still another pa- lace, called the Marble Palace, from the extensive use of marble in its decora- tions, upon which, however, it is not worth while to waste much time. More deserving of notice is the Russian Co- lony, or village, situated nearly in the same direction. It consists of 16 hobses (Izbas), built entirely after the Russian fashion, and given by the late king, with a piece of land, to a party of Rus- sians sent hither by the emperor. The little church belonging to the colony, surmounted by 3 bulb-shaped domes, like those of the Kremlin, is beautifully fitted up, and adapted to the Greek church service, with paintings, silk cur- tains, and silver plate. On quitting Potzdam the railroad crosses the HaVel, leaving the gardens of Sans Souci on the right. Werder Stat. A small town in a lake formed by the Havel. Gross Kreutz Stat. 4. Brandenburg. Stat. — Inns: H. de Brandenburg; Schwartzer Adler; Weisser Schwan; Goldner Engel; Re-Prussia, route 63.—Berlin to Leipzig, railway. 361 staurateur at the Station. A town of 14,000 inhab. on the Havel, the quarter called the Burg, in which the Cathedral stands, being on an island in the river. It is the seat of considerable coipmerce. The Dorn. The crypt is probably of the 10th century, the nave of the 10th, and the rest was built about 1318. It was restored externally in 1836 by Schinkel. At the principal entrance are relievi satirising the monks. A fox preaching to a congregation of geese. The interior is ornamented with antique statues and paintings representing SS. Magdalen, Benedict, Bernard, and Ur- sula with the Fathers of the Church of the j^ear 1518, in the style of Mat. Griinewald. Here are the tombs of 3 Episcopal Markgraves. In the choir is a richly carved altar with iigures of the Virgin, St. Peter, and St. Paul (1518). In the crypt is the old bishop’s throne. In the chamber of antiquities adjoining the Ch. is a model of the Marienkirche, a very curious monument of Byzantine architecture of the 12th century, de- stroyed in 1722. In a second chamber are some curious relics once held in great veneration here, e. g. a stud from . the bedstead of the Virgin; the manger out of which Joseph’s ass fed in the flight into Egypt; the pocket of David’s sling; the head of Goliath’s staff and his purse, &c. The Ch. of St. Katherine, built 1401, and of brick, but richly decorated ex- ternally, contain a brass font adorned with many figures, by F. Morner, 1440, and several curious monuments. St. Gotthard's Ch., b. 1324, contains a font of the 12th century. The Rathlians is a fine Gothic monu- ment, and several of the town gates deserve notice. In the market-place is a Roland Salile 18 ft. high. 1£ Wusterwitz Stat. On the lake of Plauen, which is connected with the Elbe by a canal. The rail runs near the canal on its S. side. 2$ Gen thin Stat. Inn, Goldene Stern. Giisen Stat. 3^ Burg. Inns kept by Roland and Schrader. A busy and flourishing town of 11,000 inhahs., jth of whom are engaged in the manufacture of cloth, established here originally by French Protestant emigrants. Hohenwarte Stat. Sf Magdeburg. Stat. Rte. 68. The Elbe spreads itself Jout, and forms several islands, which are crossed in coming from Berlin: on one of them stands the citadel. ROUTE 63. BERLIN TO LEirZIG.---RAILWAY. 29 Prus. m. = 137 Eng. m. Terminus outside the Anhalt gate. On quitting Berlin the Kreutzberg is passed on the left, soon after the tower of Teltow rises on the right. 2^ Gross Beeren Stat. The church, with its seven turrets, is seen on the left. An obelisk, ornamented with a cross, commemorates the victory of Aug. 23. 1813, gained here by the Prussians under Biilow, over the French under Oudinot. 2 (rt.) Trebbin Stat., a town of 1400 inhab. 2 (1.) Luckenwalde Stat., a town of 5000 inhab., on the Nuthe, famed for its manufacture of broad cloth. (1.) In a wood, near the convent of Zinna, the monk Tetzel was waylaid and robbed of the money he had ob- tained by selling indulgences. if (1.) Juterbogk Stat. — Inn, Post. This ancient Wendisch town of 5000 inhab. is 1 m. from the railroad. In the Ch. of Saint Nicholas is preserved the Indulgence-box (Ablass kasten) of Tetzel, Luther’s antagonist, who was waylaid by a robber knight, Hans von Hacke, as he was returning with it filled with gold, the produce of the pardons he had sold. Tetzel had pre- viously granted the knight an indem- nity for any sins he might commit. “ It is a large wooden coffer, hooped with iron, having a slit on the top; and from the figure which it makes in the history of the Reformation, is an object of curiosity.’’—Ld. F. The railroad to Dresden turns off here. A little beyond Juterbogk, on the 1., is Dennewitz, another battle-field, R362 ROUTE 63.—BERLIN TO LEIPZIG. WITTENBERG. Sect. V. where the Prussians under Billow were successful, Sept. 6. 1813, against the French, under Ney and Oudinot. 10,000 French were taken prisoners, and Berlin saved from falling into their hands. A monument of the battle has been erected near Nieder-Golsdorf. (1.) Zahna Station. 1J Wittenberg Station.—Inn, Stadt London. A fortified town on the rt. bank of the Elbe, 7000 inhab. dirty and ill paved. 3 or 4 hours will suf- fice to see it. It has been termed the Protestant Mecca. It was the cradle of the Reformation, since it was in this place that Luther openly engaged in opposition to the Church of Rome, and denounced its evil practices and abuses. He was professor of theology and phi- losophy at the once famous University (founded here by the Elector of Sax- ony, now removed and incorporated with that of Halle), which it will be remembered is mentioned by Shak- speare as the school where Hamlet studied. Luther and his friend Me- lancthon are both buried in the Schloss Kirche; two tablets of bronze inserted in the pavement mark their graves. Here are also the tombs of Frederick the Wise and John the Steadfast, Elec- tors of Saxony, the friends of Luther and of the Reformation. The monu- ment of Frederick is a fine work of art, by Peter Vischer; his bronze statue is full of life, and of a noble character, while the Gothic work of the niche in which it is placed also deserves notice. Against the doors of this church (burnt by the French, replaced by others of metal), Luther hung up his 95 theses or arguments condemning the doctrine of papal indulgences, which he offered, after the fashion of the times, to defend against all comers. Luther's house or lodging in the old University Buildings, formed out of the ancient Augustine Convent, where he lived after his marriage, still remains almost unaltered. In it are kept his chair and table at which he wrote, the jug from which he drank, his stove made according to his own directions and a very curious cast of his face after death. Over one door is the auto- graph, in chalk, of Peter the Great, now cOvered with glass to protect it. These two' places are shown by the same person who dives near the Post, and are at opposite ends of the town. In the way between are pointed out the houses of Cranach and Melancthon, and nt the Elster Gate, immediately beyond the house of Luther, is the Oak Tree planted on the site of that under which Luther burnt the Papal Bull, Dec. 10. 1520. In the Market Place in the middle of the town, beneath a Gothic canopy of cast iron, is a bronze statue of Luther, by Schadow, erected in 1822: on one side of the pedestal are inscribed the words— “ Ist’s Gottes Werk, so wird’s bestehen, Ist's Menschen Werk, so wird’s verge- hen.” (If it be the word of God, it will en- dure ; if of Man it will perish). On another—> “ Eine feste Burg ist unser Gott.” Close to this is the Rathhaust which is shown by a man who is to be found at the door. It contains por- traits of Luther and Melancthon, with their contemporary professors, by Cra- nach, who was burgomaster here ; also a singular picture painted by him 1516, illustrative of the 10 commandments, according to the old division;—also an original portrait of Gustavus Adol- phus, his sword,, which he left as a present after a visit to the sights of Wittenberg, and among other relics and curiosities illustrating the history of the Reformation, the top of Luther’s sacramental cup, and his rosary which he carried when a monk. In the Stadt Kirche, close at hand, there is a bronze font by Herman Vischer, 1457, whence Luther and Me- lancthon baptized. Here also (though not from the existing pulpit) Luther preached. Here are two curious pic- tures by Cranach :—1. The altar-piece representing the 4 sacraments; the Lord’s Supper, in which the painter with peculiar devices, his professor’s himself appears as a servant; Bap- chair, 2 portraits of him by Cranach, | tism, in which Melancthon officiates ;Prussia, route 63.—Berlin to Leipzig, dessau. kothen. 363 Preaching, in which Luther addresses a congregation of which the two foremost figures are his wife and sonj Penance, administered by Bugenhagen. 2. In one of the aisles a painting represents the Vineyard of the Lord as misused by the Pope and his followers, and well culti- vated by the Reformers. ”— W. S. Wittenberg has suffered severely from sieges. In 1760, the chief public buildings and one-third of the town were destroyed by the Austrian bom- bardment. It was taken by the Prus- sians under Tauentzien, from the French, by storm, in 1814, after a siege of ten months, during which the suburbs were laid in ruins. The railway, proceeding along the right bank of the Elbe, enters the territory of Anhalt Bernberg. l£ Koswig or Coswig Station. An old town of 2800 inhab., on the rt. bank of the Elbe, well placed, but behind it is a sandy desert. 3 m. from this, on the opposite bank of the Elbe, is Worlitz, (Inn, Eichenkranz,) the Prince of Anhalt Dessau’s summer residence, famed for its Gardens, or Park as it is termed, which are among the finest ^ in Germany, and though in a flat, are worth a visit. The great beauty of the trees, many fine speci- mens of American oaks, and the good keeping of the place are remarkable. They may be reached from Coswig by a [ferry, 1 m. below the town. The gardens are separated from the Elbe by a high embankment which is ren- dered ornamental by plantations, and commands a good view; their great ornament is a fine lake, from which streamlets and canals are conducted to all parts: ornamental buildings, temples, bridges, &c., are profusely scattered through the grounds. The Neumark garden occupies 3 islands. In Schoch’s garden is a Gothic house, containing paintings by old German masters, L. Cranach, &c., a bas-relief carved in wood by A. Durer, some old armour, and other curiosities. In order to visit Worlitz the railway should be left at Koswig, and a car- riage hired as far as Dessau, another railroad stat. (or vice versa if the traveller is going to Berlin). Orani^n- baum, a ducal Palace, may be seen between Worlitz and Dessau. 2\ Roslail Stat. A town of 1000 inhab., at the junction of the Rossla with the Elbe. Here is a ruined Castle of the princes of Anhalt Kothen. The railway is next carried over the Elbe by a bridge 721 feet long, approached by several smaller bridges, and shortly afterwards it crosses the Mulde. % Dessau Station, outside the Aken gaite. Dessau, capital of the duke- dom of Anhalt Dessau, is a town of 12,000 inhab., On the left bank of the Mulde, which enters the Elbe a little below it. (/an*.- Beutel; Ring ; HiTSch.) Owing to a conflagration which consumed the town (1467), it has no ancient buildings. The Ducal Palace is the principal edifice; it was built 1748, and contains a Library, in which are many MSS. of Luther, a cabinet of curiosities, jewels, antiques, &c.; and a Picture Gallery, including a painting which Calls itself a Raphael, but without just claim. In the Schloss Kirche, a building of the 16th cent., is a celebrated Last Supper by Cranach, who introduced into it portraits of the chief agents and promoters of the Reformation. Here the ducal family are buried. Moses Mendelsohn was born at Dessau. The vicinity of Dessau, originally a sandy waste, has been converted into gardens, which form its chief^drrfament? these are called Georgengarteh^ Loui- sium, and Sieglizerberg: but more rar markable by far are those of Worlitz, 7 m. from Dessau; see above. Kothen, or Cothen, is a central station on the railroad, where the lines from Berlin, Magdeburg (Rte. 64.), Bernburg and Leipzig meet. Trains are here changed, and a halt of half an hour takes place in conse- quence. The station-house, built by the Duke of Cothen, includes a refreshment room, where & good dinner may be obtained, and a Gaming-house, where passengers may lose their time and364 ROUTE 63.—BERLIN TO LEIPZIG. HALLE. Sect. V. cash during the half hour they are compelled to wait here. This esta- blishment, so discreditable to the ducal founder, has been built expressly since the completion of the railway. Cdthen is a town of - 6000 inhab. (/nras.- Grosser Gasthof; Prinz von Preussen), and residence of the Duke of Anhalt Cdthen. [A branch railway runs from Ccthen to Bernburg on the Saale, a distance of 2% Pruss. m., done in ^ hr. The stations are Biensdorf, 1^ Bernburg. Inn: Goldne Kugel. Capital of the duchy of Anhalt Bernburg, with 7000 inhab , on the river Saale. The Schloss stands on the summit of a height rising precipitously from the Saale ; its oldest part is a keep tower, called Eulenspiegel, more than 120 ft. high; the rest of the edifice was erected in the 15th and 17th centuries. It is now the residence of the Erb- prinz, and contains a collection of family portraits. The Marien-kirche is an ancient edifice, founded in the 10th century, but repaired internally in 1811; above the choir are statues of eight princes of the house of Anhalt. St. Nicholas, in the new town, is also an old church. A coach twice a day Alienee to Quedlinburg.] • The line to Leipzig leaves, a little .on the left, the old Wendisch town of Zorbig, near to 2£ Stumsdorf Stat.; and on approach- ing Halle, passes, on the right, the ruined castle Giebichenstein, once a state prison of the emperors of Germany, out of which the landgrave Louis of Thurin- gia, imprisoned by the Empr. Henry IV., escaped by leaping from a window. 2§ Halle Stat. — Inns: Stadt Zu- rich ; Kronprinz, both good: Railway Hotel (zur Eisenbahn) new and do. A town of 27,000 inhab., on the Saale, principally remarkable for its Univer- sity, founded in 1694, by Frederick I. of Prussia, to which that of Witten- berg was transferred in 1815. The average number of students at present is 750. It is especially renowned as a school of Protestant theology. Its professorsTholluk and Gesenius (lately dead) rank as the two most eminent Hebrew scholars of the age. The handsome University building, outside the town, was built 1834. Near it is the new Zuchlhaus (Penitentiary). Halle is an antiquated town, possess- ing several curious architectural monu- ments, among them the Red Tower, standing isolated in the market-place, and not far from it. The Markt-kirche, an elegant Go- thic building, completed 1554, flanked by 4 towers, 2 of which, joined by a bridge, are inhabited by the custos. It contains a remarkable picture by Lucas Cranach, turning on a pivot, and opening with four shutters : the chief subjects are the Annunciation, and the Madonna and Child on the crescent, surrounded by angels, with the Cardl. Albert of Brandenburg (for whom it was painted) in the corner, and a back ground of landscape. The wings or shutters bear figures of saints. The altar-piece (the Sermon on the Mount) is by Hiibner, an artist of the Diisseldorf school. The Marriage of St. Catherine is likewise by Cranach. High up against the triforium is a co- loured medallion head, probably of terra cotta, of Luther, inscribed “ Sanc- tus Doctor M. Lutherus, Propheta Germanise,” &c. The Moritz-kirche (built 1156, choir 1388, restored 1840), a small but fine Gothic church, elaborately vaulted, with stone pendants descending from the roof, has a very remarkable altar- piece of carved work, 20 feet high, in the style of the Custodias of Israel von Meckenen, date 1488. The centre opens and discloses niches, each filled with a bas-relief from our Lord’s passion, painted and gilt. On the outside are 10 paintings of the Westphalian school, also on shutters. The pulpit is of sand- stone, elaborately carved in the style of a later period (1588) and gilt. The stem bears the representation of Sin, Death, and the Devil (the Temptation of Eve) ; the other carvings are scrip- tural subjects from the Creation to the Crucifixion. In the Residenz, once palace of the Archbishop, occurred the humiliation of the unfortunate Philip LandgravePrussia. ROUTE 64.—MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG. 365 of Hesse, who was here obliged to throw himself at the feet of the Empr. Charles V., after the defeat of the Protestants at Miihlberg. The Orphan House ( Waisen haus), in the suburb of Glauca, called from its founder (1698), who was a clergyman and professor of Halle, Franke’s Inslitvt, is a liberal and munificent establish- ment. It embraces also schools for the education of children of both sexes, and of various stations, though chiefly of the poorer classes, to the number of 2220; a Laboratory, where medicines are prepared and distributed, and a Printing Office for Bibles, which are sold at a low price. Franlte begun without funds of his own, with no resource but a reliance on Providence. The building is now ornamented with an admirable Statue in bronze of the Founder, by Rauchj raised to his me- mory by a public subscription, to which the late king of Prussia largely contri- buted. The name Halle (Greek olAj?) is derived from the Salt Springs, which have been known from very remote times. The labourers employed in them are a peculiar and distinct race, called Halloren, supposed to be the descend- ants of the Wends, who anciently peo- pled this country. They are said still to preserve the physiognomy, customs, and even costume of their ancestors. Some of the springs rise within the town, and are boiled there, but the Royal Salt Works ( Salinen) are situ- ated without the walls on an island in the Saale. The brine is pumped up by a steam-engine, and is conveyed to them in pipes ; it is strong enough to be fit at once for boiling ; the fuel used is the brown coal, which abounds in this neighbourhood. The annual pro- duce is 220,000 cwt. of salt, valued at 125,000 dollars; it forms almost the sole article of commerce. Outside the walls, on the E., is an elegant monument to the soldiery who died here of the wounds received in the battle of Leipzig, 1813. The old castle of Moritzburg was reduced to a ruin during the Thirty Years’ war. Carding thistles .and carraways are largely cultivated in this neighbour- hood : it also furnishes the greater portion of what are called Leipzig Larks, which are caught by the Hal- loren, and sent to Leipzig as dainties for the table. Railway to Weissenfels, Weimar, and Eisenach (Route 86.). An interesting excursion may be made from Halle to Krollwitz, and Giebiclicnstein (seep. 364.). 2-J- Schkeuditz St. Ascending the valley of the Elster, we pass (1.) the battle-field of Breiten- feld, where Gustavus Adolphus de- feated Tilly, 1631, and the Swedes were a second time victorious, 1642. Mockern, close to the line (rt.), dis- tinguished by its ch. spire, was a fiercely contested point during the battle of Leipzig, between the troops of York and Marmont, until Bliicher drove back the French. lj Leipzig. (Rte. 86.) Terminus between the suburbs of Halle and Grimma, close to that of the Dresden Railway. ROUTE 64. MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG BY KOTHEN. ■— RAILROAD. 15§ German m. = 73 English m. Trains 3 times a day, in 3£ hours. Terminus in Magdeburg, at the Fiirstenwall, close to the Elbe bridge. Magdeburg is described at p. 371. The train, on quitting the fortifica- tions, passes near the celebrated Fort Sternschanze, p. 371. 2 Schonebeck Station. There are considerable salt works here and at Gross Salza on the right. (1.) Gnadau is a Moravian colony. The most considerable work on this line is the bridge, 1370 ft. long, resting on 30 piers, by which the railroad is carried over the river Saale near Grizena. 1| Saale station. Situated 1 m. below Kalbe, an old town of 4000 inhab. rt. The towers of Bernburg (p. 364.) n 3366 ROUTE 66.—COLOGNE TO BERLIN. RAILWAY. Sect. Y. are just visible from the railroad. (1.) Aken, a Prussian town of S20Q inhab., near the Elbe, is seen before reaching 2J Kothen Station, where the lines to Berlin and Leipzig meet (see Route 63.), and where the train stops half an hour, p. 363. ROUTE 65, BERLIN TO DRESDEN.—RAILWAY. 25^ Germ. in. =117 Eng. m. Trains twice a day each way, morn- ing and afternoon, in 6 hours. As far as 8^- Jiiterbogk is described in Rte. 63. From Jiiterbogk the railway (10i Germ. m.) runs to the westward of the old post road, passing by (1.) Herzberg and (rt.) Miihlberg, see Rte. 87., and falls into the Leipzig and Dresden rail- way, opposite to Riesa. See, for the rail- road thence to Dresden (6£ Germ, m.), and description of Dresden, Rte. 87. ROUTE 66. COLOGNE TO BERLIN BY MINDEN, HAN- OVER, BRUNSWICK, AND MAGDEBURG. ---RAILWAY. To Minden 35 Germ. m. — Hanover 45.—Brunswick 53.—Magdeburg 66^. — Berlin 86^ = 403 Eng. m. The station is in Deutz, on the op- posite side of the river to Cologne. There is a steam-ferry below the bridge of boats, opposite to the station. £ Miihlheim Stat. lj Kiippersteg Stat, 1 Langelfeld Stat. 1 Benrath Stat. 1 Diisseldorf Stat, See Rte. 34. p. 241. 1 Kalkum Stat. £ m. from Kaiser- werth, p. 241., and not far from Schloss Heltorf, p. 242. 1 GrossenbaUm Stat. 1 Duisburg Stat. See Rte. 34. p. 240. After leaving Duisburg, the line, which has hitherto run in nearly a N. direction, turns to the E., and crosses the river Ruhr, about halfway between Duisburg and 1 Oberhausen Stat. There are ex- tensive coalfields on the banks of the Ruhr, and about 4 m. S. of this station lies Miihlheim on the Ruhr, an indus- trious town of 6400 inhab., where steam engines are made. It is con- nected with the main line by a branch railroad. 1 Berge-Vorbeck Stat. 1 Essen Stat. After leaving this, until the next station but one is reached, the line passes over a rich coalfield, in working which many steam engines are employed. 1 Gelsenkirchen Stat. 1 Herne-Bochum Stat. 1 Kastrop Stat. 1 Mengede Stat. 1 Dortmund Stat. Inn, Romischer Kaiser, 6500 inhab. This ancient city was once a free city, and seat of the Vehme. Charlemagne had a villa here. In the Bahnhof itself was the place of meeting of the most celebrated of all the tribunals held in the. district of the “ Red earth.” Under the two. lime trees still growing, the sword of justice was laid upon a stone table. In the former Dominican ch. are some curious paintings by native artists, V. and H.: Dunwege (1521—23.). Dortmund is now a place of considerable manufac- turing industry. The railroad then passes through the extremely fertile district called the Hellweg, which is the northern part of the Grafschaft Mark. 2 Kamen Stat. [A little to the S. of this lies Unna. — Inn, Konig von Preussen. Between this town and the station are the very extensive salt works, supplied by brine springs, and the newly opened baths of Konigsbom. Here was the head-quarters of the Vehmgericht (see p.375.).] 2 Hamm Stat. Here a branch line turns off to Munster (see Rte. 69,), and one is projected to Paderborn by Soest and Lippstadt. Hamm on the Lippe is the principal town of the Grafschaft Mark, and has 3700 inhab., 3 Protest- ant churches and 1 Catholic. 3 Beckum Stat. 1 Oelde Stat. 1 Rheda Stat.Pintssia. route 66.—cologne to Berlin, minden. 1 Giiterslph Stat.—Inn, Rieter’s. His Westphalian hams, and the spirit extracted from wacholder berries, called steenhager, are celebrated. The best Westphalian hams are to be had at Giitersloh, and cost about 4 groschen a-pound. 2 Brackwede Stat. 1 Bielefeld Stat, — Inns: Deutsches Haus; Ravensberger Hof. The centre of the Westphalian linen trade ; a town of 6000 inhab. Its fine old castle is turned into a prison. The surrounding country of the Teutoburger Wald and the walks around the town are pretty. A coach goes hence to Pyrmont daily in summer. There is a good road to Detmold from Bielefeld, 3 G. m. It is supposed that Herman (Ar- minius) fought the great battle against the Romans (Clades Varana) some- where on the banks of the Senne: and the numerous tumuli on its banks, with the urns and other funeral remains found in and about them, confirm the belief. (See Rte. 68.) 2 Her ford. —Inns: Preussischer Hof; Stadt Berlin. On the Werre, a small stream; 6700 inhab. The Abbey, called Monchkirche, of great antiquity, as well as some other old buildings, deserves the artist’s attention. At Engers, 5 miles to the E., is shown the tomb of Wittekind, chief of the Saxons. About 20 m. S.E. lies Detmold. (See Rte. 69 a.) 1 Rehme. — Inn,, Post. Here are considerable salt-works; the salt water obtained by boring to a depth of 1500 ft. is converted into brine, fit for boil- ing, by being allowed to trickle over stacks of faggots. 2 Porta Stat. Within about 2 m. of Minden, the rail- road traverses the celebrated pass called Porta Westphalica, It is a rent in the chain of mountains called Wiehen- Ge- birge, through which the river Weser finds a passage to, the sea. not unlike the gorge of the Neckar at Heidelberg, except in having a plain above as well as below the pass. The hills on-cither side of 'this breach, the “ door-posts,” as it were, of the gates, are called Jacobsberg and Wittekindsberg; the 367 last is named from a castle of the Saxon hero which once stood on it, and is now replaced by a Belvedere or stone tower. Near it is a ruined chapel in which, according to the tradition, Wittekind was baptized by Charlemagne. Tbe view from the tops of these hills is very extensive. 1 Minden (Preussisch) Stat. — (“ Travellers going towards Cologne should remember that here they enter the territory of the Zollverein, and that luggage is examined. If they omit to see that their luggage is passed through the custom-house, they will find, on reaching Cologne, or any of the inter- mediate stations on the line, that it has been left behind in the Minden custom-house."— G.H.N. On entering the State of Hanover from the territory of the Zollverein, luggage is usually examined at the station at which the traveller leaves the train.)—Inns: Stadt London; Stadt Bremen; Westphalis- cher Hof. A strong fortress, belonging to Prussia, with 8000 inhab. including garrison. It was the residence of several early German Emperors, and many Diets were held here. The Ca- thedral is a fine building, remarkable for the fan-shaped tracery of its win- dows (13th cent.) In.it is a curious painting of Wittekind coming to Char- lemagne to be baptized. Both it and the Ch. in the Proviant Platz are in the pure early pointed style. Herr Kruger’s cabinet of pictures contains early works of German mas- ters, and curious specimens of the Westphalian school. The Westphalian Museum, contains some interesting curiosities. N. of the town, around the village of Todtenhausen, lies the field of the Battle of Minden, gained by Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French in 1759. The victory would have been more complete had tbn English cavalry advanced; and theixr commander, Lord George Sackville, was in consequence tried, and deprived of his military rank. Some doubts, however, have been entertained of the justice of the sentence of the court- martial ; and it is even supposed that368 ROUTE 66.-—BRUNSWICK. MUSEUM. Sect. V. the confused orders which prevented the advance of the British arose from the jealousy of the Germans. Steamers on the Weser, down to Bremen, and up to Miinden. (Rte. 74 a.) The Weser, which is crossed by a stone bridge, 600 ft. long, built in 1518, separates here the Prussian ter- ritory from the domains of Lippe Schauenburg, a pretty country. Biickeburg Stat. is the chief town of the little principality of Schauenburg Lippe, and contains 2000 inhab. The prince resides in a large and ugly Palace, with a pretty garden. Stadthagen Stat. The handsome mausoleum of Prince Ernest, attached to the church, deserves notice. Haste Stat. [About 4 m. S. of this lies Nenndorf, a watering-place be- longing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a chateau here. Strangers are ac- commodated in the three bath-houses, and there is a table d'hote, daily, dur- ing the season, in the Arkaden Saal. The waters are cold and sulphureous, and are used for drinking as well as for baths.] Wunstorf Stat. Here is the junc- tion of the railroad from Bremen. Hanover Station. (Route 71.) Lehrte Stat. Here is the junction of the lines from Haarburg (Rte. 59.) and Hildesheim. Peine Stat. Veschelde Stat. Brunswick Stat. — (Here the terri- tory of the Zollverein begins, and lug- gage is examined, see p. 367. at Min- den.)—Inns: Rhein Hof, and next to it, Das Deutsche Haus; H. d’Angleterre; H. de Prusse ; Prinz Wilhelm. The capital of the Duchy and residence of the Duke of Brunswick is a very an- cient town on the Ocker, with 38,000 inhab.; cleanly in its streets, and dis- playing much picturesque architecture in its antique houses; many of wood, with dates on them of 1488-91-92. The latter half of the 14th, and beginning of the next century, was the golden age of Brunswick, when it became a place of great commercial importance, and a leading member of the Hanse League. It is no longer fortified, but surrounded by plantations and walks, which occupy the site of the former ramparts. The Palace or Residenz-schloss is a magnificent and tasteful building, erected from the designs of Ottmer, supplying the place of that called Graue Hof, which was burnt in 1839 by the mob. It is handsomely fur- nished, and contains an interesting pic- ture of M. Theresa’s children. A party may see it by paying a fee of 2 dollars, but it is scarce worth it; the garden only, which is open to the public, being worth seeing. The Museum, in the Zeughaus (Ar- senal), near the Cathedral, well ar- ranged and kept, consists of, 1. Gallery of Paintings, containing many works of high merit, particularly two Jan Steens, the best pictures by that artist, probably, existing: one represenfs a Marriage Contract, the other a musi- cal party; Van der Heist, a woman and child; Holbein, Sir Thomas More; Rembrandt, two excellent portraits, in his clear manner, of Grotius and his wife, and a good landscape ; Mierevelt, fine portraits; Giorgione, Adam and Eve, a very good picture, though it is perhaps incorrectly assigned to this master. It is more probably a work ot Palma Vecchio. Steenwyh, the Deli- verance of St. Peter, a large picture; a fine Guido; a portrait by Raphael, erroneously said to be of himself. 160 pictures out of this collection were transported to Paris by the French. The greater part were originally in the gallery at Salzdahlum. 2. A collection of Natural History of second-rate excellence : it includes some very perfect fossil bones of the Cave Bear from the Hartz. 3. Classical Antiquities. — Statues, bronzes, &c. from Greece and Italy. The famous Mantuan Vase of Onyx was carried away by the former Duke Charles. 4. Antiquities and Works of#Art, of more recent times. At the head of them must be placed an exquisite carv-Prussia. ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. CATHEDRAL. 369 ing in steatite by Albert Durer, repre- senting St. John preaching in the Wil- derness. It is a masterpiece of its kind. Some of the figures are detached and finished all round, and in one or two instances, where their backs are turned outwards, it will be foilnd that the faces are made out with the utmost de- licacy and beauty, though there is barely room to pass the blade of a knife behind them, a fact which in- creases our admiration of the dexterity of the artist. Here are preserved the uniformof Frederick the Great, worn at Mollwitz, in the Seven Years’ War ; uniform and sword which the Duke of Brunswick carried at Quatre Bras, and Luther’s ring. There are many other valuable objects of art and vertu ; rich silver plate, carvings in ivory, am- ber, wood ; also a crucifix by M. An- gelo, with bas-reliefs in silver by Ben. Cellini; and a collection of Majolica, amounting to 1000 pieces, perhaps the finest in Europe. This collection suf- fered by its trip to Paris; many of the finest specimens being found missing on its return. It was formerly kept at the castle of Salzdahlum. French ena- mels made at Limoges, collected by Tavernier to take to Persia, — a very fine collection. Kociuszko’s cup carved in prison. Fine MSS. of the gospels 1000 or 1100; others with rich gold and ivory covers. The Museum is open to the public daily except Monday, from 11 to 1 ; at other times admittance can only be obtained by special application to the Director, and by payment of a fee of dollars. The Dorn or Cathedral of St. Blaize (Patron of Brunswick) is a plain, solid structure in the Norman style, of great antiquity, 1176—1250, begun by Henry the Lion, one of the most illustrious princes of the house of Guelph, (from whom the royal family of England are descended,) after his return from a pilgrimage in the Holy Land. It has recently been repaired and cleared of whitewash, by which some very curious frescoes (Italian in style) of the 13th century, have been laid bare. The N. aisle is of much more recent date (1469), and is sup- ported by lythe twisted, or screw pil- lars, of the utmost elegance, and very unusual. The altar in front of the roodloft is a slab of Purbeck marble, supported by 5 bronze pillars; it was presented by the Duchess Matilda. The seven-branched brass candlestick, (a copy, it is said, of that which stood in the temple of Jerusalem,) on a pedes- tal ornamented with grotesque mon- sters, was made by command of Henry the Lion, and in the Byzantine style of art. Henry himself, and his wife Matilda, an English princess (daughter of Henry II. and sister of Richard Cceur de Lion), are buried in this church. Their effigies recline upon a sarcophagus in the central aisle. The Vaults beneath the church are the burial-place of the Ducal family. No fewer than 9 of the princes here in- terred perished in the field of battle. The most remarkable among this range of coffins, in the eyes of Englishmen, are those containing the bodies of the Duke, who was mortally wounded at the fatal battle of Jena, and of his son who fell at Quatre Bras, having nobly avenged his father’s death, at the head of bis devoted black band. “ Two small (black) flags, the one an offering from the matrons, the other from the maidens of Brunswick, are suspended above his coffin; still sprinkled with the brown and withering leaves of the garlands which the love of his people scattered on his bier, when at midnight he was laid among so many of his race who had fought and fallen like him- self.”— Russell. Beside the coffins of these two heroes is placed that of Caro- line of Brunswick, consort of Geo. IV. The silver plate, sent from England, bore the words, dictated by herself, “ Murdered Queen of England,” but it was removed and replaced by ano- ther, inscribed simply with the name, dates, and titles, in the usual form ; the marks of the nails which fastened the original plate are still visible. Some of the relics brought by Henry the Lion from Palestine, which cost him vast sums, are preserved in an ante- chamber leading into thd Royal vault; r 5370 ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. CHURCHES. MONUMENTS. Sect. V. one of them, which the monks had palmed upon his credulity as a “ Grif- fin’s claw,” and which long passed for such, is now ascertained to be the curved horn of a particular species of antelope ! Here are also shown the ivory horn and pipe of St. Blaize; a statue of Henry the Lion made proba- bly in his lifetime; a singular pillar of wood, bearing the emblems of the Pas- sion of Christ, as the spear, nails, crown of thorns ; St. Veronica’s handkerchief; St. Peter’s sword; the high priest’s servant’s ear; the cock which crew, &c. &c. The bone of a whale or mam- moth, in this vault, long passed for one of Goliath’s ribs! In the centre of the square near the Cathedral stands an' ancient bronze Lion, of stiff Byzantine workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Hertry the Lion. In the Alt Stadtmarht, is a rich Gothic fountain of bronze, ornamented with' figures, devices, and coats of arms: date 1408. The Mansion-house (Altstadt Ratlihaus'), a beautiful speci- men Of German architecture (about 1300), having statues of Guelphic princes in front. The building is deserted and decayed: its dungeons are turned into wine cellars. St. Mar- tin’s Ch. opposite, is an interesting Gothic edifice of the 12th century, but St. Anne’s chapel at the S. W. dates from 1441. On the outside, in one corner, is a monument with effigies in relief of a man in armour, d. 1615. The bronze font, 1441, the statues on the pulpit (end of 16th century), and those of the high altar (1725), de- serve notice. The outsides of the Pe- trikirche, said to have been built by Henry the Lion, and of St. Andrew’s Ch. (1200—1340; finished in the mid- dle of the 16th century) ornamented externally on the S. side with figures of cripples (d. 1400), have a grand effect. St. Catherine's Ch. (latter half of 13th century: choir finished 1450) re- sembles St. Andrew’s, and is an orna- ment to the town. Here are some fine monuments of the ,16-18th centuries, and painted glass, 1553. The old houses, Nos. '772, 773, in the Breiten St., and No. 456, Stein St., have curious carvings of the 15th cen- tury. Close to the August Thor, on the finest site that the levelled ramparts afford, a cast-iron obelisk, 60 feet high, has' been erected by the citizens to the memory of their two dukes, who fell' at Jena and Quatre Bras. About a mile outside the Stein Thor a monument and chapel have been erected to the' memory of the brave but luckless Schill (Route 76.) and his companions in arms, 14 of whom were shot here by the French. Schill’s head, formerly preserved in spirits at Leyden, is now buried under the monument along with his body, and his bust, a gift of the King of Bavaria, is deposited in the chapel, along with many other relics of the War of Inde- pendence. Schill headed a patriotic rising against the French in 1808, which, though premature, and quickly suppressed, led the way to the well concerted opposition to Napoleon, which, in 1814, freed Germany from his thraldom. The famous corps of black Bruns- wichers, remarkable for their bravery and devotion to their princes, as well as for their sable uniform, black horse- hair plume, and ominous death’s head and cross-bones, are the Duke’s Body- guard. A celebrated Fair is held at Bruns- wick. In the small Magni Kirchhof is the grave of Lessing (d. 1781), marked by a simple stone. [3 Germ. m. on the old post road to Magdeburg is Konigslutter — (Inn, Stadtkeller)—a town of 3000 inhabs., “ at the foot of the Elm, an insu- lated range of hills furnishing good building stone. It is worth a visit. The Benedictine Ch. is a very perfect and pure Romanesque building, like those of Hildesheim and Goslar. Its cloister, where the master and ap- prentice stand as caryatides, the N. door, the triple apse, and the Lombard style of grotesque ornament, are the most remarkable features.”—F. S. ItPrussia. ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK TO MA&DEBURC. 371 contains monuments of the Empr. Lo- thaire and his Empress .(modern), and of Henry the Proud, all ancestors of the family of Brunswick. The other Church near the Inn is small, and very English in character, Norm, tower, square E. end with 3 lancets; the in- side very good early English, with dogs’-tooth moulding.] Railroad. — Brunswick to Magde- burg. with branches to Hartzburg and Halberstadt. 13f Germ. m. The road Tuns near the Ducal chateaux of Rich- mond and Williamscastle, to Wolfenbiittel Stat. Wolfenbuttel, a town of 9000 inhabs., on the Ocker, remarkable for its Library of 200,000 vols., containing a vast number of Bi- bles, among them Luther’s Bible, with notes in his own hand. His marriage ring, doctor’s ring, spoon, drinking glass, and his portrait, by Cranach, are also preserved here. MSS. Magso- Gothic, Icelandic, Latin, of 12th and 13th cents., Cufic, Greek; Sachsenspie- gel (Saxon laws) full of figures. Lessing lived a long time here, as librarian to the Duke. [A branch railroad is carried from Wolfenbuttel to Hartsburg, 6 Germ, m. = 28£ Eng. m., in the vicinity of Goslar. By means of it the excursion to the Hartz (Route 73.) may be conveniently made from Brunswick. Hartzburg Stat. (A good restaurant and hotel at the station; Braunschwei- ; get Hof.) Carriages, guides, and asses may be hired here. Hartzburg consists of a few scattered houses at the foot of the mountains.] 24- Schoppenstadt Stat. If Jerxheim Stat. 2 Wegersleben Stat, The wooded hills of the Hartz (the Brocken) ap- pear against the S. horizon. If Gross Oschersleben Stat. (A branch railway hence to Halber- stadt, 2j Germ. m. Rte. 74.) 1 Hadmersleben Stat. 2 Langenweddingen Stat. Within a circle of a few miles from Magdeburg lies some of the most fertile corn-land in Germany. It is, how- ever, an open and unpicturesque plain, scarcely a hedge or tree visible. Much chicory; is .cultivated in this district: after being roasted at some of the kilns near the town, it is largely exported as a substitute for coffee. Most of the churches of Magdeburg have twin towers nearly alike, so that seven pair of steeples may be. perceived on ap- proaching it, rising above the level lines of green ramparts. 2 Magdeburg Station. Magdeburg.—Inns: Herzog Ste- phan, close to the Station, new and good; Stadt London ; Stadt Peters- burg. The capital of the Prussian province of Saxony is built on the Elbe, and has 66,000 inhabs., including the gar- rison (2000 R. Catholics). It is a fortress of first class, and from thejiug- mentation and improvement in its de- fences since the war is now considered one of the strongest in Europe. Owing to its vast extent, it could not be in- vested by an army of less than from 50,000 to 100,000 men. The Citadel, on an island of the Elbe, one of the oldest.parts of the fortifications, serves also as a state prison; Lafayette and Carnot were confined in it. The fa- mous Baron Trenck was long im- prisoned in the Stem Schanze (Star Bastion) outside the Sudenberger Thor: it is considered one of the strongest points. The newly erected defences are Fort Scharnhorst and the Thurm Schanze. In spite of, or rather in con- sequence of the strength of its bul- warks, Magdeburg has endured the miseries of war at different times, and to a terrible extent, especially during the 30 years’ war. It resisted the army of Wallenstein for 7 months (1629), but was taken at the end of 2 years (1631) by the ferocious Tilly, who carried it by assault, sacked it, and massacred 30,000 of its inhabitants without distinction of age or sex, with accompaniments of brutality and atrocity which alone will serve to affix for ever the above epithet to his.name. The church of St. John, in which many hundred women had taken refuge, was nailed up and burnt, and the troopers fastening to their saddle-girths the wives and daughters of murdered citizens, dragged them off372 ROUTE 66.—MAGDEBURG. CATHEDRAL. Sect. V. to the camp. In the despatch in which Tilly announced the capture, he says, “ Since the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy, such a victory has not been.” The gate by whiph he entered the town still continues walled up, and upon the House of the commandant, whom he beheaded, may be still read the words, “ Remember the 10th of May, 1631.” After this calamity, only 139 houses were left standing. In 1806 the For- tress, though garrisoned by 20,000 men, was basely surrendered to the French by General Kleist, after 14 days’ siege, in consequence, it is supposed, of either cowardice or a bribe. The last siege was the long and obstinate one which it endured in 1813-14. Magdeburg, from its position on the Elbe, is the entrepot of the merchan- dize which enters Germany by that river, and is a place of considerable manufacturing industry, as well as of active commerce. A canal, commenc- ing 20 miles below the town, unites the Elbe with the Havel. The finest street is the Breiteweg, running N. and S. through the town, and almost the only fine building is • The Cathedral, one of the noblest Gothic edifices of N. Germany, erected between 1211 and 1363. It was shamefully injured, and turned into a warehouse and stable by the French, but has been recently repaired at the cost of 300,000 dollars, by the Prussian government. “ All the lower part of the building dates from about 1200. It succeeded an older Dom, erected by the Empr. Otho, of which a curious model is preserved in a side chapel; it was round, and probably one of the largest churches of that form. 3 im- posing colossal statues behind the choir, various marble and granite columns, and perhaps the small figures now in the walls of the choir belonged to the old Dom.”—F. S. This ch. is 364 ft. long. The roof of the nave is 110 ft. high. The tomb of the Empr. Otho and his queen Editha (daughter of Edmund, king of the Anglo-Saxons) is of the 14th century. The horseshoe arches of the E. end are very elegant. The pulpit of alabaster, now sadly mu- tilated, is the work of one Sebastian Extel, 1594; there is a monument by the same hand in the church, and others displaying fine cinque-cento bas- relief. In a chapel at the W. end, singu- larly placed between the two towers, where the principal entrance ought to be, is the monument of Archbp. Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, Peter Fischer. The figures of the 12 Apostles around it are worthy of minute examination as works of art of great excellence. A branched bronze candelabrum, and 2 chandeliers, as well as the iron screen, are of ancient work. Among other remarkable monuments is that of one Bake, a canon of the cathedral, who saved the building from destruction by interceding on its be- half with Tilly, whose schoolfellow he had been; also that of tlie Frau von Asseburg, who returned heme the night after her burial, and lived with her husband for 9 years after her first in- terment ; a story which the sexton will not fail to tell. Tilly’s helmet and gloves are shown here. Against the walls are placed tablets bearing the names of the men of Mag- deburg who fell in the War of Libera- tion, with this simple heading,—“ Aus dieser Stadt starben fur Konig und Vaterland.” In order to see the fine view of the town and fortifications, from the top of the towers 350 ft. high, permission must be obtained from the commandant; but you can ascend as far 'as the roof with the Dom-Custos. The Marien or Catholic Ch. is older than the present cathedral. In St. Se- bastian's Church is the grave of Otto Guerike, the inventor of the air-pump. In the Alte Marht, opposite the Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue of the Emperor Otho, with his two queens, one on either side. It is the oldest monument in Magdeburg, erect- ed by the grateful citizens after his death (973). The Public Gardens, called Frie- drich Wilhelms Garten, outside the Sudenberger gate, and by the side of the Elbe, are tastefully laid out, com-Prussia. ROUTE 67.—DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. 373 maud fine views, and are a great re- source 10 the townspeople. The Prince’s Rampart (Fiirstenwall), a sort of ter- race and parade-ground running along the margin of the Elbe, — named from Prince Leopold, of Dessau, — not far from the Dom, is a fine walk. Beneath it are casemates, whose chimneys pro- ject through the ground among the trees. Luther went to school at Magdeburg, and has recorded in his writings, that while a poor scholar here, he often sang in the streets and at rich men’s doors (as is still the custom with poor cho- risters) to earn a scanty pittance, which helped to support him. The French republican General Car- not is buried in the church-yard out- side the Krokenthor; he received an asylum here from the Prussians after being banished from France, in conse- quence of the restoration of the Bour- bons, and d. 1823. There is a Theatre here. The Frie- drich Wilhelms garlen beyond the glacis occupies the site of the garden of the Convent of Berg, founded 937, sup- pressed 1810: it commands an ex- tensive view. For the Railway from Magdeburg to Berlin, see Rte. 62. ROUTE 67. DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, CASSEL, EISLEBEN, AND HALLE. 83^- Pruss. m. = 389^ Eng. m. Railway from Diisseldorf to Elber- feld and Schwelm, 5 Germ. m. in 1£ hr., to be continued thence by Hagen to Dortmund, where it will enter the railway from Diisseldorf to Minden (Rte. 66.). Gerresheim Stat. This old town once contained a celebrated Nunnery for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt eloped from it with Geb- hart Truchsess, Archbishop of Co- logne, in 1582. The Church is a fine Gothic edifice, of the 12th centy. Erkerath St. Beyond this is an inclined * plane, which the carriages ascend by the weight of a descending train coming in the opposite direction. Hochdahl St. is 1 m. distant from the Neanders Hohle. Vohwinkel St. A few miles S. of this lies the town of Solingen (Inns : Baerischer Hof; Stadt Konigsberg), 4000 inhab., famous for its extensive manufacture of sword-blades, foils, scis- sars, and other articles of cutlery and ironware. A branch railway, called Prince William’s railway, runs N. from Vohwinkel to Steele. Near the village of Sonnborn, the train crosses the vale of the Wiipper on a bridge of 6 arches, and along the shoulder of a hill reaches Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 Sgr.) into the town. The valley of the Diissel is pic- turesque, enlivened also by large villages and manufactories. Near Mittman (Inn, Post) is the romantic ravine called Das Gestein, in which is a cave named Neanders Hohle, from a poet, author of many hymns, who sought refuge in it from religious per- secution between 1640-60 : an entrance ticket to the cave is charged 2^ Sgr. 3% Elberfeld.— Inns: Kurpfalzer Hof ( Cour Electorale);—Zweibriicker Hof;—Weiden Hof. This is one of the most important towns in the Prus- sian dominions, from its extensive ma- nufactories. It has a population of 45,000, and is joined to another town, Barmen, with 32,000 inhab., forming an uninterrupted street, several miles long. Its situation in the pretty valley of the Wiipper, is picturesque, healthy, and advantageous to its commerce, but the town itself is dirty and not prepossess- ing. It has rapidly risen to its actual extent and height of prosperity within the present century. Its principal ma- nufactures consist of cottons, thread, silk, and the dye called Turkey red, which is produced here of so excellent a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton yarn is actually exported to a consider- able extent from Glasgow and else- where, and is afterwards reimported from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829, the annual produce of the manufactures here was valued at more than 3 millions sterling. There are few districts in374 route 67.^-dusseldorf to Berlin, schwelm:. Sect. V. Europe at present, which exceed in manufacturing enterprise, wealth, and population, that part of the Rhenish provinces of Prussia which anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. It may be nearly included within a tri- angle drawn from Cologne, along the Rhine to the mouth of the Ruhr, and from these two points to Hagen. The valleys of the Wiipper, and of the streams pouring into it, are scenes of the most active and intelligent industry, and their .manufactures of cotton, iron, cutlery, and brass, nearly equal those of England, while they surpass our own in cheapness. The prosperity of the country is visible at every step : coal, the origin of all manufacturing prosperity, is found in abundance; water-power is furnished by the nume- rous streams; steam-engines have been erected every where, and the hills are covered with habitations even up to their summits. The new Rathhaus is ornamented with frescoes by the Diisseldorf artists. The object best worth visiting here,' is the Belvedere (Rundschau auf der Hardt), a round tower on the top of the hill of Hardt, surrounded by plea- sure grounds, a charming point of view, overlooking the Wiipperthal, accessible in less than £ an hour from the Hotel. SchneUposts daily to Iserlohn,— to Cassel in 29^ hours. - The Catholic Ch. at Elberfeld, in the Byzantine style, and the Protestant Ch. at Barmen, both modem buildings, de- serve notice. Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a bridge, so that they seem to form but one town, both ani- mated by the same spirit of industry. Barmen is a long straggling street of nearly 8 miles, with manufactories and human dwellings on either side. At every step the country displays the most agreeable signs of industrious prosperity,—indeed this portion of the Duchy of Berg may be looked on as one vast workshop. It is the most populous district of Prussia; the num- ber of inhabitants is calculated at 18,000 to the German square mile (20| Eng. square m.). Beyond Bar- men, the view from the top of the hill near Rittershausen, over the beautiful and populous vale of the Wiipper, is particularly pleasing. 1 £ Schwelm—Inn, Markischer Hof. —An active little town of 3400 inhab. The vale of Ennepe swarms with life and industry. Villages occur at every few miles of road, chiefly busied in various manufactures of iron. Ma- chetes, here called Sackhauer, for cut- ting the sugar-cane in the West Indies, &c., are made here. Hagen..—Inn, Hagen Preussischer Adler. ’—A manufacturing town of 3500 inhab. The road from Dortmund comes in here. Between this and Unna lie the coal-mines, the chief source of prosperity to the surrounding district. The road makes a considerable bend to cross the Lenhe, approaching the small town of Limburg (Inn, Bentheimer Hof, beautifully situated), and the chateau of the Prince of Bentheim- Tecklenburg-Rheda, which is in a very picturesque situation. At the point where the Lenne joins the Ruhr, N. W., in the distance are seen the ruins of Holieh-Syburg, the old castle of Wittekind, last Duke of the Saxons, who was here conquered by Charle- magne and compulsorily baptized. Af- ter passing near the Griirmannshohle, nearer Iserlohn, at Grime, a colossal cross of iron is discernible. It was set up as a memorial of the War of Libe- ration. 2^ Iserlohn (Inn, Quinke’s Hotel), one of the most considerable manufac- turing towns in Westphalia, with 9400 inhab. : it may be regarded as the Birmingham of Prussia, where steam-engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c. are made. The country round abounds in workshops, forges, paper- mills, &c„ is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined castles of antiquity, and roman- tic valleys and glens. At Hemar, 3 m. on the high road, the traveller, by turning rt. to the village Sundwich, may see the Sundwich Hohle, a cave containing fossil bones, and the Sea of Rocks (Felsen Meer). ■ We are now in the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the country of the red earth, over which,Prussia. route 67.—dusseldorf to Berlin, cassel. 375 in former times, the jurisdiction of the mysterious Vehm Gerickt, miscalled the Secret Tribunal, extended. The na- tional food of Westphalia is brown rye bread, commonly called pumpernickel, described by Voltaire as “certaine pierre dure, noire et gluante, composee 4 ce qu’on pretend, d'une espece de seigle;” it is found on the tables of rich and poor, and horses are fed on a eoarse sort of it, as well as men. ■ 2^- Wimbern. — Inn, Post; civil peopl e but poor accommodation.—R. T. Hence to Werl, on the high road to Munster and Paderborn, is only one German mile. The road approaches the Ruhr, and continues along its banks for many miles, crossing it at Neheim. 2f Arnsberg.—Inn, Kdnig von Preus- sen, good.—A town of 4000 inhab., prettily situated on an eminence half encircled by the Ruhr. On one of the gates are groups of stags and boars not ill executed. There is an extensive view from the ruins of the Old Castle, in the Court of which ( Baumhof), or in a field on the left of the road to Iser- lohn, the judges of that which has beeh called the Secret Tribunal used to assemble for deliberation. • • The holy Vehm numbered in Westphalia (which anciently comprehended the country between the Rhine, Weser, and Ems,) 100,000 Wissenden or initiated. This ancient court of justice, now errone- ously regarded as a sort of German inquisition, was in truth only a separate jurisdiction; its meetings were held in public places, and in open day; and its proceedings were neither secret nor ty- rannical. The words Secret Tribunal are in fact a mistranslation of the words “ Separatum judicium.” Part of the old castle is fitted up as a residence for the family of Hesse Schomberg, and contains some good pictures, pottery, and glass. The gardens are much fre- quented by pic-nic parties from the neighbouring places. At the foot of the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine Abbey Weddinghausen. Schnellpost to Munster. Pretty country to 2| Meschede, a pretty town on the Ruhr. Schaffers Inn. 3 Brilon (Inn, Post) is one of the oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776. (?) This stage lies over a lonely heath (Thurler heide), with scarcely a house in sight. . 2 Bredelar, on the Diemel. The post house was once a monastery, now turned into an iron work. The old road goes by Arolsen (2f), residence of the Prince of Waldeck (Inn, Waldeckscher Hof); Volkmarchen, 1}; — Westuffeln, 2: but the new road, made as far as possible within the Prussian territory, skirts Waldeck, and passes through Sj Ossendorf. Beyond, however, it is necessarily carried across a portion of the Electorate of Hesse, which, in Con- junction with Waldeck, separate the Westphalian and Rhenish provinces of Prussia from the rest of her empire. 2£ Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 2£ Cassel.—In Route 70. p. 385. 2 Helsa. Near Alinerode, the Mount Meissner, 2300 feet above the sea-level, chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the S., and it may be conveniently ascended from that place. Scenery, pretty and varied, to 2j Witzenhausen (Jans: Konig v. Preussen ; Goldne Krone), prettily placed on the Werra, 2500 inhab. ; the last station in Hesse Cassel. There is an elegant Gothic chapel, with elaborate open-work turret, near the bridge: it deserves being drawn. “ There is a charming drive along the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to Allendorf, and down to Miinden in Hanover; through woods the greater part of the way. The forests in Hesse are among the finest in Germany, owing to the large trees they contain, which are no longer found in those nearer the Rhine.” — F.S. 3 Heiligenstadt.—Inns: Preussischer Hof; Deutsches Haus.—'Has 4000 inhabs. ; it was formerly the capital of the principality of Eichsfeld, but now belongs to Prussia. Its Jesuits’ College is converted into a gymnasium. The Ch. of the Apostles has 2 octagonal376 ROUTE 68.—COLOGNE TO BRUNSWICK. Sect. Y. towers, and in the church-yard is an octagonal chapel, intended apparently for a Baptistery. 3 Wulfingerode. A hilly stage to 3 Nordhausen.—Inns: Romischer Kaiser; Berliner Hof; Englischer Hof; Deutsches Haus, outside the town, good.—A flourishing town of 12,000 inhab., at the S. extremity of the Hartz mountains, in a country very fertile in com. It has the most extensive dis- tilleries in Germany. In the Ch. of St.Blazius are two paintings by Luke Cranach; an Ecce Homo, and the bu- rial of the young man of Nain, painted to adorn the tomb of a friend of the painter, who has introduced among the mourners portraits of Luther and Me- lancthon. Wolf the philosopher was born here. The walks and gardens on the upper side of the town are beautiful. There are many interesting points in the neighbourhood, such as the castles of Hohenstein, and Ebersburg. The road from hence to Magdeburg and the Hartz is described in Route 74. Near Nordhausen begins the fertile valley called Goldener Aue, watered by the winding Helme. It extends to Rossleben and Sangerhausen, near which it falls into the Unstrut. 11m. S. of Nordhausen lies Sondershausen (/ran, Erbprinz), capital of the small principality of Schwarzburg.—S. In the palace is a small collection of an- tiquities, among them a bronze image, said to be a Saxon idol called Piisterich, very old. At 2jj Rossla, on the Helme, 1200 inliab., Count Stolberg has a chateau. On the rt. of the road rises the hill called Kyff- h'duser (1353ft. high): on it may be seen ruins of a tower, said to be the remains of an imperial castle, built by the Empr. Barbarossa, whose spirit is fabled still to haunt its chambers, and some among the peasants and miners affirm they have seen him with his head resting on his arm, and his red beard growing through the stone table at which he sits! 2^ Sangerhausen.—Inn, Lowe. In the Church of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who vowed to build a church to St. Ulrich, provided he succeeded in jumping safely out of the window of his prison near Halle: from this circumstance he ob- tained a nickname, and the saint a church. Near the town are mines of brown coal and copper. 2j Eisleben.—Inn, Goldenes Schiff. A town of 7000 inhab. on the Bose, a small stream. It is only remarkable as the native^place of Luther. The house in which he was born, 1483, and died, 1546, is not far from the gate leading to Halle, a few doors from the Post-office; his portrait is placed over the entrance. The original building was partly consumed by fire in 1689, but there is still enough of it left to give interest to it. It is now converted into a Free School for the education of poor children, and contains the cap, cloak, and other relics of the great re- former. In St. Andrew's church is the pulpit from which he preached, and some tombs of the Counts of Mansfeld. Luther was the son of a poor miner here, and the greater part of the inha- bitants still follow the same occupation, working in the neighbouring copper- mines. The ancient castle was the re- sidence of the Counts of Mansfeld. The road traverses an open country bare of wood, passing two small lakes; the one on the right is salt, the other fresh. 2^ Langenbogen. There are brown coal-mines near this. 2 Halle. See p. 364. Railway hence to Berlin. Route 63. ROUTE 68. COLOGNE BY PADERBORN TO BRUNSWICK. A railway is constructing which is to turn off from the Cologne and Minden railway at Hamm, and pass through Soest to Paderborn. At present pro- ceed by railway as in Route 66. as far as the Kamen station, then turn off to 1 Unna. Route 66. 2 Werl. (Inn very bad.) Here are salt works, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to which many thou- sand pilgrims repair annually. Soest.—Inns: Bey Oberweg, com- fortable and clean. A singular anti-Prussia, route 68.—cologne to Brunswick, cathedral. 377 quated walled town, with 7600 in- hab.; reckoned the cheapest place in Germany. It contains several very cu- rious churches, “ which deserve elu- cidation by some competent architect. Many of them seem to be works of colonists from the Rhine, and are very Roman in the appearance of their archi- tecture and masonry. In the tower of one of them there still remains a heap of old cross-bow bolts and cross-bows in a state of decay. The more modern churches of the 13th, 14th, and 15th cen- turies are equally good, and seem to be emanations from the tasteful Gothic architecture of Munster. Some of the shrine work is particularly worthy of imitation from its richness and purity. ”— F. S. The Font, a Byzantine edifice; the Wiesen- Kirche, a splendid specimen of German pointed Gothic (the altar-piece —the woes and joys of the Virgin (1437) is fine); and the Petri-Kirche,in the By- zantine, or round-arched style, especially deserve notice. During the middle ages, Soest was a most flourishing and popu- lous town, lying on the great com- mercial high road from Bruges and Antwerp, across Germany, by Co- logne to Brunswick and the Baltic. In the 15th cent, it withstood a me- morable siege from Dietrich, Archbp. of Cologne, an ambitious prelate, who sought to subject Westphalia to his rule. In spite, however, of the long train of princes and nobles whom he gained over to his cause, and in spite of his army of 60,000 men, including a horde of 20,000 Bohemian mercenaries, the Bishop was compelled to raise the siege and retire from the walls, so bravely were they defended by the citizens who served the artillery, and by their wivesVho wielded pots of boil- ing pitch. Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. About a mile off, on the left of the road, are the salt works and baths of Sas- sendorf. 2\ Erwitte has a conspicuous high tower. Here the road to Paderborn branches off from that to Minden. Scarcely a house is passed on this stage as far as l| Gesecke.—Inn, Post, tolerable. The road passes on the left the Saueiche (pig’s oak), and on the left the Stelper Lime. 1 Salzkotten (Preussens Inn), a town of 1500 inliab., with considerable salt- works. l£ Paderborn. — Inns: Preussischer Hof; Romischer Hof, dirty; Schwan; none good. A very ancient and gloomy town of 8200 inhab., formerly capital of an ecclesiastical principality and seat of a University, now a Catholic Bishop’s See, full of curious old houses. The Cathedral is a large and curious, rather than handsome, edifice, built 1133, 345 ft. long, 66ft. high, has re- markable sculptures over the portal, and contains the sarcophagus of St. Li- borius of silver gilt, and numerous monuments of its bishops, &c. In an angle between the nave and the tran- sept is a well 80 ft. deep. The sacristy abounds in articles of church plate, and in splendid priests’ vestments. Below the Dom runs the stream of the Pader, out of five sources, in sufficient copious- ness to be able to turn a mill at the distance of a few yards. The ground on which the town stands teems with springs of water, bursting forth in the very streets; it is said there are not less than 300 in and about it; some of them warm. The Stadthaus is a very pic- turesque building. The University is now replaced by a Catholic Seminary. There is a fine walk round the town. The road ascends through the Teu- toburger Wald, — the Saltus Teuio- bergicus of the Romans,—covered with oaks and beech. This ridge is supposed to be the scene of the defeat of the le- gions of Varus by the German chief Arminius( Herr-mann, the leader of the army). Allowing the Romans to ad- vance across the plains of Westphalia, he awaited them in the first difficult country, on the skirts of the Great Hercynian, Forest, a strong position, covering the district up to the Weser, where Roman discipline being of no avail, the invaders suffered one of the most serious defeats recorded in their annals; which arrested for ever their progress in this direction. The battle field is supposed to lie between Driburg378 ROUTE 69.—DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER. Sect. Y. and Bielefeld. ( R„ 66.) Many of the present names, of hills, forests, streams, and villages, in this district correspond with those mentioned by -Tacitus, near the scene, of the battle. The road to Brunswick proceeds from Paderborn to ; 2f Driburg.—Inns; Kothens Hof, in the town ; Deutsches Haus, at the Wells : both good.—-The town contains 2000 inhab. A little to the east of it, on the road to Hoxter, beneath. the old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths, supplied by a chalybeate spring, one of the strongest known. They are annually frequented by 'some hundred visitors. A covered gallery, 250 ft. long, serves as a promenade in bad. weather. A new macadamised road leads over the Bergstiege to 2 Braekel (Aims.- Berliner Hof;— Deutsches Haus), at the junction of the Brucht and Nethe. Population 2700. 2£ Hoxter.—itlnns: Berliner Hof; Stadt Bremen.—A walled town, 3500 inhab., the last in Prussian West- phalia, on the 1. bank of the Weser. Near it Charlemagne fought one of his hardest battles against the Saxons. Here is a Gothic building, once a Benedictine monastery, afterwards a theatre, now a warehouse. A fine avenue of chesnuts, 1 m. long, leads to the suppressed Benedictine Abbey of Corvei (Corveia), (ho Inn), one of the most ancient ecclesiastical' establish- ments in Germany. It was founded in 823, by Louis the Pious, and received from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. Vitus; it became the centre from which the civilisation of. the district proceeded. The only existing MS. of the first 5 books.of Tacitus was dis- covered in the convent library, 1514, and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. The Convent, a handsome modem edi- fice, is now a seat of the Prince of Hohenlohe Schillingfiirst, but too vast for any private family of whatever rank, and void of interest. The only remains of the old Abbey are in the W. front of the Church, and the story over it, with the columns. of single blocks in the vestibule,, attributed with some proba- bility to 4he age of Charlemagne ; the body is of the 15th cent. The castle of Braunsberg, once esteemed the strongest -in Germany, now in ruins, is also in this neighbourhood. Be- yond this, as far as Eschershausen, the road is fine. If Holzminden in Brunswick. 2f Eschershausen. 2A Muhlenbeck. li Gandersheim. If Seesen. — Steigerthal’s Inn is the best: the town has 2000 inhabitants. If Lutter, where Tilly gained a vic- tory over the Protestants under Chris- tian of Denmark, so decisive that he received for [it the thanks of the Holy See. Lutter, Salzgitter, and Beinum lie wit bin . the Hanoverian territory. 3f Immendorf. 2 Brunswick. See Route 66. ROUTE 69. DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER, RAILWAY. AND TO BREMEN. For the Railway as far as Hamm (20 Germ, m.), see Route 66. At Hamm a branch line turns off to Munster, trains in 1 hour, 4£ Gerrfl. m. The many towers of Munster have an imposing appearance at a distance. Munster Stat.—Inns : Miinsterischer Hof, comfortable and good table d’hote; — Konig von England, in the market- place, better situated. The capital of the province of Westphalia; has 24,000 inhab., and is a place of considerable trade and commerce. It was formerly ruled by archbishops, who were princes independent of the Empire ; it is now a Catholic bishop’s see. It is .one of the most curious old towns in Germany, though it has not the high antiquity or fine situation of those on the Rhine and Danube. Along the ground floor of the houses of the main street run arcades, supporting the upper stories, reminding the traveller of Padua and Bologna. Its Gothic buildings are re- markable for their good taste and pictu- resque beauty. The most remarkable are, the Cathedral, an ancient Gothic structure. “ The parts of it most worthPrussia: route 69.—munster. the anabaptists. 379 notice are, the S. Transept (outside), and the S; porch or Patadis, as it is called. Inside, the Roodloft and its staircases, the sacraments houses, the brass font, and stained glass. ”—F. S. The body of the church is remarkable among German cathedrals for its low- ness. The choir has been vilely daubed with peach-colour, and green, and mi- serable arabesques. Observe the tomb of Bitohop Galen, who, notwithstanding his ecclesiastical title and profession, spent a life of perpetual warfare; main- taining an army of 42,000 foot, 18,000 horse, and 200 cannoneers. He is ap- propriately styled in his epitaph “ Hos- tium terror,” but he was equally dreaded by his friends; for being offended soon after his accession by the conduct of the townsfolk, he mercilessly bom- barded the town, until he was appeased by promises of submission. In order, however, to make sure of obedience, he erected the very strong Citadel. The English government considered him a person of so much importance, that they sent Sir Wm. Temple, in 1664, to negotiate an alliance with him ; but the Bishop had previously sold himself to the Dutch. Under a simple slab lie the remains of the Celebrated Archbp. of Cologne, Clement August von Droste, well known for his opposition to the King of Prussia — died, 1845. The Oberwasser Kirche is a'fine spe- cimen of Gothic, art, which seems to have flourished in its best state in Westphalia, during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ludgeri Kirche is the oldest in the town. The interior of the body of the ch. has massive piers supporting circular arches. The lower portion of the tower is also Romanesque. The choir and the graceful octagonal lan- tern of the tower are in the pointed style. From the tower of St. Lambert's Ch., also in the best Gothic style, still hang the' iron cagis in which the bodies of John of Leyden, the Tailor King, Knipperdolling, and Kretching, his two ministers and colleagues,—-the leaders of the Anabaptists,—wete suspended, after they had been cruelly tortured^ for the space of ail hour, with red-hot pincers, previous to their execution in the Great Square. These fanatics, after expelling from the town, in 1534, all the respectable and rational inhabitants, and filling it with ignorant peasants and enthusiasts, who flocked hither from Holland, Friesland, and West- phalia, proclaimed Munster to be the New Jerusalem mentioned in the pro- phecies. They appointed themselves its sovereigns, and maintained, posses- sion of it for the space of many months, establishing a community of goods and of women, attacking all constituted au- thorities, as the only means of rooting out evil from the earth (1), committing the most horrid atrocities, substituting polygamy for marriage, and the like. The house of John of Leyden, orna- mented with curious carvings, still exists in the market-place. The Rathhaus is a singular and beau, tiful specimen of Gothic, 14th cent. Under a colonnade running round the lower story, are exposed the tongs and pincers with which the Anabaptists were tortured previous to their execu- tion. In the Frieden Saal, which is well preserved and well worth seeing, the Peace of Westphalia, which ended the Thirty Years’ War, was signed May, 1648. It contains paintings of the am- bassadors and sovereigns who took part in the Congress; the cushions they sat upon still cover their seats. Here also are shown John of Leyden's hand cut off before his execution, shrivelled and dried, his carved bedstead, and.' his wife’s shoes. The Schloss, formerly Palace of the Bishop, now the residence of the com- mandant, is handsome, and has a fine staircase, but is fast falling to decay. Behind it there are pretty gardens, oc- cupying the site of the old citadel. The fortifications, now levelled and planted, form agreeable walks round the town. The Catholic University, which for-; merly flourished here, is supplanted by that of Bonn, and reduced to a College of the theological and philosophical fa- culties. The building, originally a convent, contains a small collection of natural history.380 ROUTE 69.—OSNABRUCK. BREMEN. Sect. V. The Provincial Museum and Kunst Verein possess curious ancient paintings of the Westphalian school. There is a considerable trade in Westphalia hams here. Munster is connected with the river Ems by a navigable Canal. A Schnellpost daily in 23 hours to Bre- men. There are two roads to Osna- briick, one by Lengerich, 6^ Prussian miles, or about 30 English, is shorter, but not so good as the following, by Telgte, on the Ems; a neat.town of 2000 inhabs. A large and venerable lime-tree stands by the roadside at the entrance of the town, out of which, says the legend, grew formerly an image of the Virgin. This tree is still the ob- ject of great adoration in the little town, and receives every year the homage of the different images of the same saint, which are brought there from Miinster for that purpose. Ostbeyern is the last place in Prussia. The road now improves. Fine view from the hill above Iburg; the vale of Osnabriick very pretty. 2j Glandorf, in Hanover. Iburg is an old castle, and the official residence of the Bishops of Osnabriick. In it is a curious collection of the portraits of all the bishops ending with that of the Duke of York, who is represented with his crosier. Here George II: was born. George I. died in his carriage on the road to Osnabriick, 1727. It is said that on landing in Germany from Eng- land, a letter had been put into his hands from his deceased wife Sophia Dorothea, whom he had kept in con- finement many years, written shortly before her death, maintaining her in- nocence, and summoning him to ap- pear before the Divine tribunal within a year and a day. On reading this mysterious summons, he is reported to have fallen into convulsions, which car- ried him off before he could reach Osnabriick. 3^- Osnabriick. — Inns : Krummer Ellenbogen ; Romischer Kaiser ; Der .Etna.—Capital of a Hanoverian pro- vince (or Landrostei) of the same name, has 11,030 inhab., half Catholics, half Protestants. The governor, nominated by the king of Hanover, bears the title of Bishop, without sharing the eccle- siastical dignity. Thus the late Duke of York was made Bishop of Osnabriick while an infant. The Cathedral, very old, in the style of Cologne; square E. end, and chapel, with triple win- dows; side screens to choir; sacristy 1150-1200, cloisters. . Johann Kirche, evidently copied from the Dom, but a century later, square E. end; old altar now at the end of N. aisle; fine old silver crosses in the sacristy. The Rathhaus, a castellated building, in which the negotiations for the peace of Westphalia were partly carried on, con- tains a curious collection of old plate ; some of fine models. Fine-freestone for building isa obtained here. In the Dom- freiheit stands Justus Moser’s monu- ment. The road to Bremen is good, but passes through a dreary country of heath, sand, and bog. Some fine oaks near the villages. 3 Bohmte. Inn, Post; comfortable. 2 Lehmforde. After this the road passes on the 1. a large lake or mere called the Diimer See. 2^ Diepholz.— Inn, Post; very com- fortable. A village of 1900 inhab. 2£ Barnstorf. At 3 Bassum {Inn, Stadt Bremen; very good) is a chapter of noble cha- noinesses; old brick Ch. in the round style, square Norman tower. 4 Bremen. — Inns : Stadt Frank- furt ; Lindenhof; both very good. Stadt London. Bremen is a beautiful flourishing town, as clean as those of Holland, surrounded by gardens and new white houses, and containing many curious buildings within. It was anciently a Free City of the Em- pire, and is still one of the three Hanse towns; it has 50,000 inhab. The old town lies on the rt. bank of the Weser, and the new town on the 1.; they are connected by a handsome bridge. Its entire territory is about 3£ German square miles in extent, consisting chiefly of drained marsh-land, inter- sected by ditches and canals, affording . good pasturage to cattle. The dyke ofPrussia. ROUTE 69.—BREMEN. MUSEUM. 381 the Weser causes some apprehension to the town. No dredging beiug used to deepen the channel, the bottom of the river rises by degrees, and the dyke is raised year after year in consequence, so that in time the bed of the river will be on a level with the town itself; and were the dyke to break, immense in- jury would ensue. The dyke gave way during the winter a few years ago, and overflowed a large tract of land, besides washing away many houses. The total population does not exceed 60,000 souls; it is surrounded by the terri- tory of Hanover and Oldenburg. It is governed by a senate, which enjoys the dignified title of Die Wittheit (The Wisdom). It has some manufactures, but its prosperity depends chiefly on its shipping and trade with France, Great Britain, N. America, the Baltic, and Spain. A greater quantity of tobacco is imported here than in all the other ports of Germany put together, ave- raging more than 24 million lbs. annu- ally. The improvements in the navi- gation of the Weser and its confluents have extended the relations of Bremen into the heart of Germany. In the Dom (Lutheran), a fine build- ing, resembling in parts the E. English style, observe the square E. end, the brass font, and the open gallery in the N. E. aisle. Under it is a vault (Blei- heller) which has the property of pre- serving free from decomposition, after the lapse of centuries, several bodies interred in it. The sexton who shows them to the curious stranger recounts their names and histories, as though he were describing a gallery of pictures. The ancient and beautiful Eliza- bethan Rathhaus, in the market-place, ornamented on the S. side with statues of the 7 electors and an emperor, has been recently restored. In a particular compartment of the cellars beneath it, shown only by permission of the burgo- master, are casks called the Rose, and the 12 Apostles, filled with fine hock, some of it a century and a half old. It is sold in glasses or bottles. This nectar was at one time valued at a ducat a glass. “ The arches along one side of the large vaulted cellar are enclosed by wooden partitions with windows and doors, and the closets or boxes so formed are fitted up with tables and benches. Hot suppers and good oysters may be had here; and as an abundant supply of excellent Rhenish is close at hand, and admirable cigars may be procured in Bremen, a very pleasant evening may be spent in this crypt.”— G. H. N. In the market-place, opposite the Rathhaus, is a curious Statue of Roland, 18 feet high, a symbol of the rights and privileges of the town. The drawn sword and the head and hand at his feet refer to the power of life and death in criminal causes enjoyed by the ma- gistrates, and much envied and esteemed both by corporate bodies and individuals in ancient days. In the same place is the Exchange (Borse), and the Schiitting (an old Scandinavian word signifying place of assemblage), where the head merchants meet to transact business. The Museum is a club where news- papers are taken in, and to which a good collection of natural history is attached. Here is a skeleton of a Ger- man Thug or murderess, who killed 40 persons, including her 3 husbands. Olbers, the astronomer, who disco- vered in his observatory here the Planets Vesta and Pallas, was a native of this place, as well as Heeren the historian. There are pleasant Walks on the site of the rampart or Stadt Wallround the town, and a Theatre for German plays and operas. ' Railroad from Bremen to Lehrte, where it meets the lines from Hanover, Brunswick, and Hildesheim. Eilwagen to Hamburg, Minden, Munster, Oldenburg. Steamers ascend and descend the We- ser every day between Bremen and Mlinden, which is only 3 hours’ drive from Cassel (Rte 74 a.). The depth of water in the Weser at Bremen is only sufficient to admit small vessels drawing 7 ft. Ships of burthen unload their cargoes at the port of Bremerliafen, near the mouth of the Weser, 30 miles below Bremen, opened in 1830, and built on a piece of ground ceded by the government of Hanover. It is rising rapidly into importance:382 ROUTE 69 a.—PADERBORN TO HANOVER. . Sect. V. (3000 inhab.) 35,000 German emigrants embarked here for America in 1845. Steamers are continually running in. summer between Bremen and Bremer- hafen. Steamers ply 'every; week in summer to the island Nordemei, one of the chain of broken Dunes, or sand bills, which skirt the coast of Germany from Holland to Denmark. It is fre- quented as a watering-place by the Ger- mans. (Inns : Logirhaus; Kruse’s and Schutte.) At low water the island may be reached on foot or in a carriage from the mainland. A guide, called Strand. Voight, shows the way. Steamers run between Hull and Bre- merhafen every week. They are screw propellers, and make the voyage in about 40 hours. The Weser is usually accessible in winter, and the landing is in a commodious dock at Bremerhafen, from which place to Bremen there is a good post road, well found in post- horses. ROUTE 69 a. PADERBORN TO HANOVER. 16} Germ. m. =78} Eng. m. Paderborn. (See Rte. 68.) • The principal posting road, and the shortest from Paderborn to Hanover, is an interesting road, now very good, which leads from Paderborn to Pyr- inont by Horn and Meinberg, crossing the range of the Teutoberger Wald, and passing on the 1. the Teut hill, on which stands the colossal Herrmann’s Denkmal (see below), whence most extensive views open out over West- phalia and the principality of Detmold. It then, descending a long and steep hill covered with wood, and threading a gorge, passes through the Exters- teine, a cluster of bold but grotesque rocks of sandstone, rising out of the woods, picturesquely situated by the side of a sheet of water, with trees growing from many parts of them. They are said to have been held in respect by the Druids, who, according to the tradition, here sacrificed the Roman prisoners taken in the Herr- manns Schlacht. One rock has been excavated, in ancient times, into a her- mitage or chapel, with stairs, windows, &c. On the face of the rock has been carved a rude bas-relief of ;the Cruci- fixion, dating probably from the 10th century. These rocks have been ren- dered accessible by steps with railings, and a bridge thrown across one of the chasms, so that you may ascend to all the summits, and enjoy an extensive view. The loftiest mass is 125 ft. high. The grounds about are laid out in gar- dens. This is a favourite rendezvous for pic-nic parties from Pyrmont, Det- mold, and Meinberg. Close at hand is an inn. A few miles further lies Horn, after passing, through which Herrmann’s Denkmal is seen at a con- siderable distance W. on the summit of a hill. At Horn horses' are changed during the winter, but at other seasons at 4 Meinberg. Inns Zur Rose (Post), and zum Stern. This is a small but very pretty watering-place, with sulphur and other baths, besides gas-exhalations, which are used in cases of weak eyes. The waters have the reputation of producing the same effect as an invocation of St. Josse-ten-noode at Brussels. The gardens are exten- sive, and neatly laid out. Herrmann’s Denkmal may be visited from Meinburg by taking a light car- riage with 2 horses from thence. The road thither lies through Detmold, arid the ascent from Meinberg occupies 2} hrs., and the return 1} hr.: the hire of a carriage will be about 6 thalers. The road ascends from Detmold : it "is not very steep, and is in tolerable order. On the Grotenberg (Teut), the high- est summit of the Teutoberger Wald, 1200 ft. above the sea level, a monu- ment to the old German hero Herr- mann, or Arminius, who defeated the Roman legions under Varus (p. 377.), has been raised,: after a lapse of 19 centuries since that event, by subscrip- tion throughout Germany. It is to be a colossal statue of hammered copper, 45 ft. high, and. 80 ft. to the point of the swoTd. The pedestal which sup- ports it is a circular Gothic temple ofPrussia. route 70.—frankfurt a. m. to cassel. 383 sandstone 90 ft. high. The statue was made at the copper works in Lemgo, and lies in disjointed portions in a shed. The temple is nearly finished, but from want of funds the works have been suspended for some years. The projector and architect is Mr. Bandel. It stands in a wild and gloomy situa- tion, and overlooks the spot where the battle is supposed to have been fought. The view from it is truly magnificent, and will alone repay the trouble of ascending the mountain. There is a so-called Hunnish Ring, or rampart of loose stones, and barrows (Hiinengra- ber) near the spot. The schnellpost from Paderborn, in- stead of passing through the valley of the Extersteine, goes round by Det- mold to Meinberg. 4 “ Detmold (Inn, Stadt Frankfurt, tolerable), 4000 inhab., is the capital of the principality of Lippe Detmold. The Palace is a fine old castellated building, somewhat in the style of the castle of Glammis in Scotland, having a vast round corner tower or Donjon, with additions of an Elizabethan cha- racter, The: best view of it is from the upper windows of the Inn, which is opposite to it. The prince is very rich, being the owner of almost all the large estates in his dominions, and all the forests, which are as abundantly stocked with game as any in Germany. He is consequently able to support all the expenses of the government, so that the inhabitants are required to pay hardly any taxes, and are much envied by their neighbours, who are not equally exempted. The Palace Gardens are prettily arranged. The Marstall is a very fine stable, remarkably well kept, and worth the inspection of those: who take an interest in horses. It contains in general 60 entire horses for the use of the prince. They are all of the Senner race,, and are bred at the esta- blishment of Lobshorn, about 5 m. from Detmold, also belonging to the prince. This breed of horses is pe- culiar ; they are allowed to run wild in the Senner Wald (from whence they take their name), which is of great extent, and possess in consequence great endurance, and are Very hardy; but, on the other hand, very shy, and trouble- some to break. They are taken up on the 1st of November, and turned out again on the 1st of May, without any reference, either to - their condition at the time,' or the state of the weather. The race is of Arabian origin, and has been occasionally refreshed by new Arabian blood. There is evidence ot a stud having existed here since the 15th cent., and it is supposed to be still older. Experiments have recently been made for the first time in crossing this race with the best English blood. The establishment possesses about 120 mares.” — L. S.b.e. Interesting ex- cursions may be made from Detmold to the Extersteine (p. 382.) by the village of Horn;—-also to the statue of Herrman, p. 382. (Nearly N. of Detmold, and l£ Germ. m. distant on the road to the Herford station on the Cologne and Minden railway, is the curious old town of Lemgo, containing singular specimens-of old Gothic architecture, among which is a picturesque Rathi- haus. Lemgo is 2^ Germ. m. from the Herford station, Rte. 66.) 1 Meinberg. Beyond Meinberg the road passes through a beautiful country to 3^ Pyrmont. For an account ot Pyrmont, and the rest of the road to Hanover, see Rte. 71. ROUTE 76. FRAKKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL. 22 Germ, miles = 106 Eng. miles; a good macadamised road; an Eilwagen daily, in 20 hours. A Railway in pro- gress nearly follows the line of the road as far as Marburg. 1 Vilbel. The Basilica Ch. of II- benstadt, towers of the 12th cent., on the road to Hanau, belonging to Count Leiningen, is seen in the distance. 2£ Friedberg (a fine new Hotel), a town of Hesse Darmstadt, with 3300384 ROUTE 70.—GIESSEN. MARBURG. Sect. y. inliab. The situation on a hill, and the old walls, with one lofty round tower, are very fine. It has an old castle, and two handsome Gothic churches; one in the town ruinous, the other in the castle. Near Friedberg there are extensive salt works. If Butzbach. The German vagrants, known in London as Bavarian broom girls ( Fliegenwedel-hiindler), come, not from Bavaria, but from villages in this neighbourhood, to the N. of Frankfurt, in Nassau and Hesse. Friedburg, Butzbach behind the Hausberg, and Espe, have for 20 years past sent forth crowds of them annually. At first they were taken over by the broom- makers, ready to sell their brooms, but in a short time they discovered other and less moral modes of earning money. The speculators, perceiving this, en- ticed from their homes many young girls, under pretence of hiring them as servants. Some of these poor creatures have never been heard of by their pa- rents, others have returned ruined and broken in constitution, and innumer- able actions have been brought against the planners of this disgraceful traffic. The magistrates of these towns have at length interfered, and any person dis- covered taking away a child, or any female but a wife, is subject to heavy penalties. Waldburg, near Butzbach, is a very beautiful spot. 2^ Giessen. — Inns : Rappe, good ; Post; Einhorn (Unicorn), only toler- able. This, the chief town of the pro- vince of Upper Hesse, is beautifully situated on the Lahn; it has 8000 inhab. The University, founded in 1607, has an excellent library ; a large barrack has been converted to the uses of learning, in addition to the building of the University itself. Liebig the chemist is professor here. The excursion down the vale of the Lahn, hence to Wetzlar, Coblenz, and Ems is very agreeable. (See Rte. 96.) Eilwagen to Coblenz — to Fulda. 2 Bellnhausen is the first station in Hesse Cassel. Cross the Lahn. 1^ Marburg.— Inn, Deutsches Haus, Ritter. Marburg is a town of 7600 inhab., on the Lahn; picturesquely situated on the side and slopes of a hill, but with narrow and dirty streets. • The University was the first founded in Germany after the Reformation (1527); it has 40 professors, but not more than 200 students; it has a good library. The Church of St. Elizabeth, begun in 1235, and completed in 48 years, is a most elegant and interesting Gothic edifice, as a specimen of very early purity in the pointed Gothic style; and at the same time in the most per- fect state of preservation. In many parts it exhibits the transition from the Byzantine into the pointed style. In one arm of the transept is the richly ornamented Gothic Chapel of St. Eliz- abeth (of Hungary), to whom the church is dedicated. She was a Landgravine of Hesse, and was canonised for the sanc- tity of her life in 1231. The stone steps around it are worn hollow by the knees of pilgrims who resorted to it for many ages. Within is a carved tablet, re- presenting the saint lying on her coffin surrounded by cripples and sick per- sons, the objects of her bounty: her soul is seen hovering above her head, on its way to heaven, whence Christ extends to her his hand. The Shrine which contained her body, is now placed in the sacristy; it is of oak covered with plates of copper gilt, and orna- mented with bas-reliefs of solid silver gilt. It was originally richly inlaid with, pearls, antique cameos, and costly gems, but a great part of these were stolen in 1810, when the shrine was removed by the French to Cassel. In the opposite transept are the curious monuments of some of the Landgraves of Hesse in stone, with the ornamental parts of brass, in relief,'and handsome in their way, quite different from English brasses. The painted glass in the windows of the choir is very beautiful. On the Schlossberg rises proudly the ancient Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse, a structure of the chivalrous ages, now a penitentiary, in which the prisoners are employed in various trades: the produce of their industry being sold in the castle by the overseer. ItPrussia. ROUTE 70.—CASSEL. MUSEUM. 385 commands a very fine prospect. It is well worth seeing, both for its archi- tecture and situation, particularly the Gateway, the Chapel, and the Knights Hall, in which Luther and Zwingli dis- cussed the question of Transubstantia- tion, in the presence of the Landgrave (Philip the Magnanimous) of Hesse, 1529. The Lahn is again crossed. l£ Schonstadt. 2 Jossbach. ‘ 2 Jessberg. Kerstenhausen. — Inn, Post, lj Fritzlar.— Inn, H. d’Angleterre. On the Eder, from whose sands gold is washed. The beautiful Stiftskirche is Gothic of the 12th cent. The straggling Castle of Gudens- berg rises on the 1. on one of the numerous tabular hills of basalt which diversify this region. Dissen. The Colossal Hercules at Wilhelmshohe (p. 387.), on the edge of the Habichts-wald hills, is visible before entering 2 Cassel. — Inns: Konig von Preussen (in the Konigs Platz, an oval Pluce, remarkable for the echo in the centre); — a good inn, but rather dear: Romischer Kaiser. The capital of the Electorate of Hesse Cassel is situated on the Fulda, and contains 31,500 inhab. It is the resi- dence of the Elector (who retains the title, though there is now no Emperor of Germany to elect), and seat of the government. The [old town lies low down, close to the river banks, and consists of narrow and dirty streets, while the new part, built upon an ele- vation formerly occupied by a fortress, is airy and agreeable. In the Frie- drich’s Platz, the largest square in any German town, stands the Elector'S Pa- lace, a building of no very imposing appearance, surpassed indeed by the hotels of several bankers in Frankfort. Next to it is the Museum, the hand- somest building in Cassel; beyond it are the government offices. One side of the square, on the brow of the hill, is very judiciously left open, to admit the view of the valley, the windings of the Fulda, and the distant Mount i Meissner. On this side a light gate- I way leads to the Public Garden (Au- garten), a very handsome park, abound- ing in fine trees (obs. the Weymouth pines), but subject to inundations. In the middle of the square is placed the statue of the Elector Frederick, after whom it is named. To this prince Cassel owes its principal embellish- ments and collections of art, &c. &c. His wealth was acquired by trafficking in the lives of his subjects, whom he lent to the king of Great Britain to fight his battles in America and else- where ; 5000 Hessian troops were hired with the consent of Parliament against the Pretender in Scotland. The Museum, open to the public from 10 to 1 daily, includes, 1. A Library of 90,000 volumes, useful, but not cal- culated to interest a passing traveller. 2. A Cabinet of Curiosities in art and nature. One room is nearly filled with watches and clock work, from the earliest invented watches made at Nu- remburg, shaped like eggs, and wound up-with a piece of catgut, instead of a chain, to the most perfect chronome- ters. One of the Electors was an amateur watch-maker, and several specimens of his work are here pre- served. Here are also a great variety of agates from the mines near Marburg, in the Elector’s dominions, now aban- doned ; one single mass is formed into a staff 3 or 4 ft. long. Among many elaborate carvings in wood and ivory is one attributed to Albert Purer. An enamelled dagger hilt is believed to be by Benvenuto Cellini. A sword given by Pope Innocent VIII. to a Land- grave of Hesse. 2 hunting cases, with coats of arms in brass. Many cases are entirely filled with objects of art and virtu, in amber, ivory, precious stones, gold and silver plate. Antiqui- ties. These were chiefly brought from Herculaneum. A little bronze statue of Victory, known by casts all over Europe, is the gem of the collection; an exquisitely shaped bronze vase also merits notice. Many of the remains are interesting, from having been found in Germany or Hesse Cassel itself: a Roman Eagle of the 21st Legion, and a helmet, were dug up at Wiesbaden. S386 ROUTE 70.—CASSEL. MUSEUM. Sect. V. The coins, medals, and cameos are well arranged for general inspection, under glass cases. Antique Statues. A Minerva, a bas-relief of the Triumph of Bacchus, and a bronze head of Mars, are the best; they were purchased from the Pope for 40,000 dollars. Among modern works are several busts by Canova, of Napoleon, of his son when a child 5 years old, and of his family. The Cork Models of ancient buildings are good. . The Collection of Natural History is not very extensive or excellent. Be- sides the usual quantity of stuffed birds and quadrupeds, there are specimens of the woods of 500 different European trees, made up in the form of a library; each specimen has the shape of a volume; the back is formed of the bark ; the sides of the perfect wood; the top of the young wood, with nar- row rings; the bottom of old wood, with rings wider apart. When the volume is opened, it is found to be a little box containing the flower, seed, fruit, and leaves of the tree, either dried or imitated in wax. A trunk of a laurel which grew in the orangery here, 58 ft. high and 2 ft. diameter, is another botanical curiosity. Among the fossils are two specimens of the gigantic Chama shell dug up by the side of the road to Frankfurt; this shell exists at present only in tropical seas. The Museum is shown by. the Direc- tor, who receives a fee of 2 dollars, and 1 dollar for a single person; but when the party is numerous, 8 or 10 gute groschen are enough from each person. The Picture Gallery, in the building called the Belvedere, contains a few very good pictures among a multitude of bad; it is very ill arranged, and not always accessible, as an appointment must be made the day previous to the visit with the Custode, who must show it in person, and receives a fee of 3 dollars from a party. The best pictures are of the Dutch school, viz. there are some excellent portraits by Rembrandt, others particularly fine by Vandyke, a remarkably fine Rubens — the Meeting of Abraham and Melchisedec, figures life size; Rembrandt, the capture of Samson; Vandyke, Portrait of Syndic Mostraeten, and a family group; Teniers, Peasants at a Kirmess ; Sile- nus by Jordans, nearly equal to Ru- bens ; and a good piece by Terburg. Many of the best pictures have been removed to the Hermitage, St. Peters- burg. In the Church of St. Martin are several monuments of the Electoral family, whose burial vault is beneath it. That of Philip the Magnanimous occupies the place of the high altar (d. 1567). A little below the Friedrichs Platz may be seen the foundation and first story of a vast Palace, called Kattenburg, begun 1820, by a former Elector, and stopped by his death the year follow- ing its commencement. The Marble Bath, in the Augarten, is a sumptuous piece of extravagance. Though it really contains a bath, this was introduced merely as a pretext for spending money and employing marble, with which its walls are covered. It is stocked with statues and bas-reliefs, by Monnot, an artist of the last cen- tury, whose works, deficient in elevation and purity, have been termed the “ Dutch School" of sculpture. Near this building is the Orangery. The Theatre, at the corner of the Friedrichs Platz, is generally open 4 times a-week; the Opera is tolerably good. Spohr the composer resides here. Cassel and its rulers afforded an asylum to the fugitive Flemish Pro- testants driven from their country by the persecutions under Alva; and afterwards to the French Huguenots, exiled by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. These colonists contributed much to the wealth and prosperity of the town by their industry, as well as to its extent. — One part of it is still called, after them, the French quarter. Johann von Muller, the Swiss his- torian (died 1809), is buried in the old churchyard, outside the Todten Thor. The old porcelain figures of Cassel are much esteemed. Bookseller. — Fisher, an intelligentPrussia. ROUTE 70.—CASSEL. WILHELMSHOHE. man, speaks English, and is ready to give information to travellers. Cassel lies on the high road from Cologne and Diisseldorf to Berlin. (Route 64.) Schnellposts to Halle, Magdeburg, Cologne; daily to Frank- furt, Hanover, Fulda, and Eisenach. Railways in progress—to Frankfurt —to Eisenach. Wilhelmshohe. No one should quit Cassel without visiting the famous Gardens of Wilhelmshohe, the Ger- man Versailles. The Elector’s sum- mer palace, within them, is only 3 m. from Cassel, 1but they extend behind it to the top of a high hill, which is a good hour’s walk in addition. Wed- nesday and Sunday are the best days for going thither, as the water-works then play, generally at half-past 2 in the afternoon. A day may be agree- ably spent here in exploring the line views and natural beauties of the spot, setting aside its artificial marvels; and there is a very good Inn close to the palace, to accommodate visitors. A straight avenue of limes leads from the Wilhelmshohe- Gate of Cassel, where carriages stand for hire to convey pas- sengers. On the right, on quitting the town, is a huge edifice built by Jerome Buonaparte, while king of Westphalia, as a barrack, now turned into a manu- factory and poor-house. The vista is terminated by the figure of the Colossal Hercules on the top of the hill behind Wilhelmshohe. The Palace lies at the foot of the hill; at the side of it stands the Theatre, built by king Jerome Buonaparte (quondam cloth merchant at Baltimore), in which he used himself to act; it is now turned into a ball-room. Behind it are the Conservatories, and the Fountain, the highest] in Europe, which throws up a jet of water, 12 inches in diameter, 190 feet. It is supplied from reservoirs 300 feet higher up the hill. At the back of the pond out of which it rises, is an artificial waterfall descending from a tall aqueduct. Both it and the Foun- tain remain inactive and empty, except on Sundays and Wednesdays. Their performances do not continue more than 50 minutes. 387 The more ancient Cascade of the Carlsburg consists of a flight of stone steps, 900 ft. long, leading up to the colossal statue ; over which a stream of water is at times admitted to fall. A carriage road conducts by the side of this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to the very top of the hill. Upon a sort of landing-place or platform, half way up the stairs, is a rude representation of the Giant Enceladus, lying on his back, with a mountain of rocks heaped on his breast; it was the intention of the artist who formed him that he should spout from his mouth a jet of water 50 feet high ; this is now dried up. The stair- case of this chateau d’eau (imitated, it is said, from that in the villa d’Este) is surmounted by an octagon building 1312 ft. above the Fylda, surmounted by a pyramid, serving as a pedestal to the Colossal Hercules, 31 feet high, of beaten copper. It is possible to mount up into the figure ; 8 persons can stand at one time in the hollow of the club, and, out of a little window formed in it, enjoy a prospect extending nearly as far as the Brocken. But the delightful view can he obtained from the top oF the hill without so much trouble. The aquatic staircase, and the octagon Temple of the Winds, as it is called, on its summit, with the statue, and other extravagances connected with it,, are reported to have employed 2000- men for 14 years. When their labours were completed, the cost was found to be so enormous that the accounts were burnt, to destroy all records of it. In descending, a visit may be paid to the Lowenburg, a toy-castle, built to imitate a stronghold of the middle ages, with drawbridges, battlements, towers, and ditches. Among the rusty suits in his armoury, is one which belonged to the Great Conde ; there is also a very curious collection of drinking-glasses, a series of portraits of the Tudors and Stuarts, and a library filled with ro- mances alone. The Elector who built this castle is buried in the chapeL Those who have no taste for the follies above tified prospects from the slopes of the Lpwen- enumeraled, will at least be gra- with the charming and various388 ROUTE 71.— CASSEL TO HANOVER. PYRMONT. Sect. V. burg, and its agreeable gardens and pleasure-grounds. ROUTE 71. CASSEL TO HANOVER BY FYRMONT. 20j Pruss. miles = 96 Eng. miles. A post road, macadamised nearly all the way. ( A railway has been opened this year, 1849, from Cassel to Karls- hafen: 5^ Germ. m. = 25£ Eng. m. in length.) Schnellposts from Cassel to Pyrmont 2 or 3 times a week ; thence to Han- over twice a week: Pyrmont to Han- oVer takes 8 hours. Wilhelmsthal, a country seat of the Elector, is like a good English country house, with pleasure grounds and line trees, furnished in Rococo style of Louis XV. time, and with portraits by Tischbein. 3 Hof Geismar Stat., a town of 3200 inhab., having warm chalybate springs, not much frequented. The Bath-houses lie in a valley about 1J mile off. There are pleasant walks in the neighbour- hood, and at a short distance a chateau of the Elector’s, called Schonberg. Handsome barracks have been built here. The castle of Trendelburg, on the Diemel, is picturesquely situated near the road. 3 Karlshafen (Inn, Schwan, tole- rable) is beautifully situated on the Weser, but subject to floods ; 1600 in- hab. It was founded in 1700, and colo- nised by emigrant Huguenots driven out of France at the revocation of the edict of Nantes. Many of them came from val- leys in the French Alps which border on the country of the Vaudois, — Val Pragelas, Clusone, Embrun, &c. l£ Gr. Oschersleben Stat. For the rest of the line to Magde- burg see Route 66. -# ROUTE 74a. DESCENT OF THE WESER. CASSEL TO BREMEN. Steamers of a company called the Weser Steam Navigation Co. have since 1844 navigated the Weser be- tween Hannoverisch Miinden, and Bre- men. The navigation is sometimes interrupted in summer by want of water. The distance by the river from Miinden to Hameln is 18 Germ. m.; from thence to Minden 9 Germ. m. Steamers start daily, descending in 2 days: ascending in 3, halting for the night at Minden and Hameln. Fare 6 Thalers. 2d class 3 Thl. The sce- nery down to Minden is pleasing, with many points of interest; below Minden the banks of the river are fiat and un- interesting. The Weser has a course of 62 Germ. m. = 300 Engl, m., with a fall of 397 ft. to the North Sea. Cassel to Miinden Germ. m. by the post-road. (See Rte. 72.) i Descending the Weser from Miinden, by steamer, rt. The wooded hills of the Bram- wald. 1. Reinhardswald. 1. Veckerhagen. 1800inhab. Here was formerly a castle of the Electors of Hesse, now Chemical Works: in the neighbourhood are iron mines. The Weser makes a great bend round the ruins of the castle of Bamburg, rt., which remain long in sight. rt. Bursfelde, here was a Benedic- tine abbey of the 13th cent., now an estate of the King of Hanover. The church is the best preserved monument of Byzantine architecture in Germany, rt. Lippoldsberge. 650 inhab. A404 route 74 a.—the weser. cassel to Bremen. Sect. V. fierce engagement took place here be- tween the Saxons and the Francs under the Archbp. of Mayence. rt. Bodenfelde, both these are pic- turesque villages. The banks of the river are here covered with a thick forest, part of the romantic scenery of the Solnick : the river forces its way among high rocks. 1. Karlshafen. Inn: Schwan. 1600 inhab. at the junction of the JDiemel with the Weser, in a picturesque situa- tion, with cliffs of red sandstone. A railway w.as opened this year (1849)be- tween Cassel and this town, which is in- tended to forma great commercial place. There are large magazines built by the Landgrave Charles in 1700; and the French Huguenots were hospitably re- ceived by him in 1699 and settled here. (Rte. 71.) In the neighbourhood, higher up the river, are two settle- ments, named by them in the style of the Puritans, Gottestreue, and Gewiss- enruhe, (Truth of God and Rest of Conscience). The inhabitants still pre- serve their French features. A little below Karlshafen, the Prus- sian territory begins on the 1. bank. 1. Heerstelle. A stronghold of Charlemagne, where in 797, during his campaign against the Saxons, he re- ceived the ambassadors of the Avars, and of Arragon and Castile. It is named after the cradle of his family, —Heristal, on the Meuse. No trace of the original castle remains. Its site was subsequently occupied by a palace of the Bp. of Paderborn, which was de- stroyed in the 30 Years’ War. In its place a modern Gothic chateau lifts its roof above picturesque groups of trees. Below is the village of the same name. 1. Beverungen, a Prussian village marked by an old prison tower. rt. Lauenforde, a Hanoverian vil- lage. 1. Blankenau. Formerly a fortress of the Abbot of Corvey, built in the 13th cent., afterwards a stronghold of the robber knight of Falkenberg. Now a Prussian public office. Opposite is the village of rt. Meinbrexen, in Brunswick. 1. Godelheim, at the foot of the Brunsberg: here are mineral springs Opposite is rt. Fiirstenberg. A castle of the Duke of Brunswick, upon a spur of the Soiling. Since 1753 it has been a china manufactory. rt. Bofzen. 1. Hoxter. Rte. 68. 1. Corvey. This vast monastic edi- fice, with its numerous courts, and sur- mounted by the twin spires of its abbey ch. : once the most eminent Benedic- tine convent in Germany, is now the residence of the Prince of Hohenlohe- Schillingfurst, Prince of Corvey. See Rte. 68. rt. Holzminden, a town of Bruns- wick at the N. extremity of an offset of the Sollinger-wald hills. It has con- siderable iron and steel works, mills for cutting paving stones, an article of export to Bremen, and a celebrated school or gymnasium dedicated “ Deo et literis.” Near the town are the ruins of Eberstein, a famous stronghold of the counts of that name. 1. Heinsen, below this the Weser makes a great bend to 1. Polle: here are the ruins of a castle destroyed in the 30 Years’ War. It had been the principal castle of the counts of Eberstein. rt. Dolme. A singular cliff goes by the name of the Pastor von Dolme. Opposite 1., in a narrow gorge, a small stream descends and turns the wheel of the Teufelsmiihle (the Devil’s mill),* mentioned in legends of the 13th cent. rt. Bodenwerder. A small Hano- verian town on an island with a boat bridge. The red sandstone displays itself in a peculiar manner on the rt. bank. 1. Kemnade, with a flying bridge. It was the site of a nunnery founded in 1025. The old ch. contains the tombs of many noble families. 1. Hehlen. The stately chateau, surmounted by 4 towers, was built in ] 560, by Count Schulenberg, in whose family it still remains. It was one of this family, who as Field Marshal in the service of the republic of Venice,Prussia. ROUTE 74 a.—CASSEL TO BREMEN. so bravely defended Corfu in 1716 against the Turks. Turkish arms and horse-tail standards, his trophies, are still preserved here. rt. Hagenossen, with a mansion, formerly belonging to the Counts of Eberstein. 1. Grohnde has a monument of a battle between Duke Wm. of Bruns- wick, and the Bp. of Hildesheim, 9. April, 1422. 1. Ohr, has a new church, inscribed “ Der Geisfist frey, und ohne Zwang die Glaube.” From the top of the Ohrberg, above the village, there is a beautiful view towards the high land about Pyrmont. rt. Hameln. Rte. 71. Coached hence to Pyrmont (3 Germ. m.), and to Hanover. rt. Fischbeck, in a fertile country : here is an ancient church and nunnery, founded 954, now a school for young ladies of noble families. rt. Oldendorf. Inns : Stadt Cassel, Rathskeller. 1400 inhab., a town of the Elector of Hesse. 1 m. E. rises the Hohenstein, a table rock 1075 ft. high, with precipitous sides. N.W. from Oldendorf is the castle of Schaumburg, built 1030, the family seat of the Counts of that name. In one part of the castle is a gate called “ the gate of Heaven,” so called from the beautiful view suddenly opened to the visitor. A cliff, called Paschenlmrg, 1200 ft. high, hangs over the castle. An hotel, much resorted to, is found on this elevated spot, the residence of the ranger of the surrounding forests. 1. Rinteln. Inns: Stadt Bremen, Rathskeller. 4000 inhab., capital of the Hessian county of Schauenburg, with a stone bridge over the Weser. Until 1809 there was an university here. A beautiful road leads hence to the watering place of Eilsen; to the Ludnerclippe, 3 m. off, a cliff, from which there is a fine view; and to the Arensburg, a castle belonging to the Prince of Schaumburg-Lippe, with a collection of antiquities, a picture gal- lery, and furnished in the style of the middle ages. It is shown to strangers. 405 1. Mdllenbeck, formerly a convent, containing a gothic church. 1. Varenholz, with a castle, dating from 1595, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill. 1. Vlotho, a Prussian town of 2200 inhab., with considerable trade. 1. Rheme, containing salt works be- longing to the Prussian government. The brine is raised from an Artesian well 2000 feet deep, and at its natural heat possesses medicinal properties.- Here the Minden and Cologne railroad crosses the Weser. 1. Wedigenstein, with a ruined Saxon castle, the residence of the Saxon Duke Wittekind, the successful op- ponent of Charlemagne, rt. the range of the Siintel; 1, that of the Weden- berg, approach and form Weserscharte — the Porta Westphalica, through which the Weser enters the plain of N. Germany. The hills immediately above the pass are called, 1. Witte- kindsberg, on the rt. Jacobsberg. On the former, 780 ft. high, is a tower 60 ft., dedicated 1830, “ to the admirers of nature,” and not far off from it is St. Margaret’s chapel, built in the 14th century. Jacobsberg was formerly called Mt. Anthony, but the present name was given by Frederic the Great, from one of his old soldiers who settled here as a vintager, and supplied the king with excellent grapes. At the foot of the Jacobsberg is rt. Haus- berge. 1. Minden. See Rte. 66. Below Minden down to Bremen, the shores of the river are flat. 1. Todtenhausen, scene of the battle of Minden, 9 Aug. 1759. Rte. 66. 1. Petershagen : the former residence of the Bp. of Minden. 1. Schlusselburg, with an ancient house, containing public offices, for- merly an episcopal stronghold. 1. Stolzenau: Inn, D. of York. First Hanoverian place on the lower Weser, a pretty village, with an old castle, formerly the residence of the Counts of Hoya : afterwards an occa- sional resort of George II. of Eng- land. “406 ROUTE 74 a.—CASSEL TO BREMEN. Sect. Y. 1. Liebenau, also a castle of the Counts Hoya. rt. Nienburg, a station on the Bre- men and Hanover railroad. Rte. 72 a. rt. Drackenburg, here the Smalkaldic League defeated the Imperialists, 23 May, 1547. 1. Hoya. Inn, Stadt Hanover. 2000 inhab. An iron bridge here crosses the Weser. In the neighbourhood is the Holy Mount, covered with trees, where, from time immemorial, vast numbers of herons have built nests. rt. At a distance above the junction of the Aller with the Weser, is seen the town of Verden, with its cathedral. Rte. 72 a. rt. Arbergen is the birthplace of Olbers the astronomer, and Heeren the historian, Bremen, Rte. 69.407 SECTION VI. PRUSSIA — continued. route „ PAGE 75. Berlin to Stettin, Raihoay— Stettin to Danzig - - 407 76. Stettin to Stralsund, the Baths 409 77. Berlin to Danzig - - 41‘2 78. Danzig to Konigsberg - - 415 79. Konigsberg to Memel, by Til- sit - - - - 41-7 80. Berlin to Danzig, by Brom- berg■ - - - - 418 80 c. Berlin to Posen - - 418 80 6. Posen to Stettin,— Bailway 419 81. Berlin lo Breslau by Frank- furt on the Oder,—Railway 419 of Putbus, and the Island of TiYifipn. ■ • • •• ROUTE PAGE 82. Dresden to Breslau - - 422 83. The Riesengehirge—Berlin to Hirschberg, Warmbrunn, Schmiedeberg, Landshut, and Adersbach ... 424 84. The Riesengebirge— Bres- lau to Schweidnitz, Traute- nau, and Prague - - 428 84 a. Dresden to Zittau, and Reichenberg, by Hermhut 429 85. Breslau to Prague, by Glatz 4SO 85 a. Breslau to Cracow,—Rail- way - 432 85 6. Breslau to Vienna, — Rail- way - - - - 433 ROUTE 75. BERLIN TO STETTIN AND DANZIG. Railroad to Stettin 18 Germ, m., 85 Eng. m, 2 trains daily in 4 J hours. Terminus outside the Oranienburg gate. The line makes a bend at first, passing the village of LouiSfenbrunnen, Pankow, &c., to 3 Bernau St., a town whose inhab. defended themselves stoutly against the Hussites 1432, and captured some of their armour, still preserved in the Rathhaus. 3 Nenstadt-Eberswald Stat.—Inns: H. de Prusse; Sonne. A manufac- turing town, of 3500 inhabs., on the Finow canal, which connects the Oder with the Havel. There are very ex- tensive paper-mills near this. 2 G. m. E. of this lies Freienwalde, a watering- place on the Oder. (Inns: Konig v. Preussen; Adler.) In the next stage the Finow canal is crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cis- tercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen of N. German Gothic, in tolerable pre- servation, now a tavern, and several small lakes (Paarsteiner See), are passed. 3 Angermiinde Stat.,’ a very old town, with an old high church; 3000 inhabs. 2j G. m. from this, on the Oder, lies Schwedt—■. (Inn, Deutsches Haus) — a town of 4600 inhabs. : many of them are descendants of French emigrants, an$I a portion are Jews. The Palace was originally the residence of a branch of the family of Markgraves of Bran- denburg, now extinct. Their summer palace Montplaisir lies at the termina- tion of an avenue 2 miles from the town. One of the Markgraves and his403 ROUTE 7O.—BERLIN TO STETTIN. Sect. YI. wife are buried in granite coffins in tlie French Church. 3 Passow St. 3^ Germ. m. N. W. of Passow is Prenzlow on the Unter- Ueker See. “ The foreign musical journals have spoken so highly of an organ recently erected in a church here (announcing it as a possible rival to the organs of Haarlem and Fribourg), that a halt of half a day might not be ill bestowed by those whom such mat- ters interest.”—H. F. C. 3 Tantow St. The railway is car- ried partly on embankments along the valleys of the Randow and Welse. On the rt. views are obtained of the lake of Damm, formed by the Oder spreading out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The railway is carried through the fortifications to reach the terminus at 3 Stettin (Inns : H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strasse; Drei Kronen), a flourishing town, where there is little to see; it is the capital of Pomerania, upon the bank of the Oder, but con- nected by bridges with the suburb Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 40,000 inhab., including the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and place of considerable commerce, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia conveyed down the Oder from Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depot for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. About 1000 vessels enter the port yearly, and 160 belong to it. The Schloss Kirche contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The Schloss, built 1.577, and now converted into government offices, was the resi- dence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who died out 1637. At the Peace of Westphalia, Stettin was given over to Sweden, and by that of Stockholm, 1720, transferred to Prussia. Fine view from the Trappenthnrm of the Schloss. The Rathhaus dates from 1245. In the Konigsplatz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great, by Scha- dow. In the Marienplatz is the New Gymnasium, to which an observatory, library, and museum are attached. Two empresses of Russia were born here — Catherine the Great (1729), and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the Empr. Paul (1759). There is a hand- some new Borse, and a Theatre here. The chief Promenade is the Plantage, outside the Anclam Gate. An English Consul resides at Stettin. The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, in four branches, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff; this again communicates with the Baltic by 3 mouths, which form the 2 large islands, Usedom, on which lies Swinemiinde, and Wollin. Schnellpost to Danzig;—to Slral- sund. Steamers once a week to Copenhagen in 24 hours;—every Saturday to Put- bus in Riigen, returning the following Monday ( Rte. 76.);—to St. Petersburg in 70 hours;—to Schwedt on the Oder, daily, in 5 or 6 hours, between Stettin and Swinemiinde.—Inns: Olthoffs; Kron Prinz. This town, of 3500 inhab., has latterly acquired importance from the improvements made in its harbour, which have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive moles and works have been erected to remedy this defect, and it is now capable of admit- ting vessels drawing 1 8 or 19 ft. water to unload their cargoes, which are transported to Stettin in lighters. Swinemiinde stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stettiner Half, separated from the main land by the Swine and other mouths or channels through which the Oder empties itself into the sea. About l'i mile from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemiinde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assembly- room (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily table d’hote dinner at one. Visitors usually lodge at the inns in the town. * Distinct spots, separated by consider- able intervals, are marked out on the sea-shore as bathing-places for ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bath- ing-machines or covered cabinets; atPrussia. ROUTE 76.—STETTIN TO STRALSUND. 409 the opposite end the females enjoy the same privileges, and between these re- mote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex. Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan re- public, described by chroniclers as the greatest city of Europe in the 11th cent., stood on an island at the mouth of the Oder. Its exact site is not deter- mined. - It was upon this island of Uscdom, June 24. 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he fell on his knees, and after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. When tidings of this event were brought to the Emperor Ferdinand, he made light of the mat- ter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader “ a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate.” The following year 6000 English volunteers (among whom must have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. Stetlin to Danzig. 475- Pruss. m. = 124 Eng. m. Schnell- post daily in 33 hours. An excellent macadamised post road, running nearly parallel with the shore of the Baltic. It is carried side by side with the rail- way (p. 408.) across the 4 branches of the Oder along a dam of masonry, 4jm. long, and over 3 long and 20 shorter bridges, to lj Alt-Damm, a town and fortress on the right bank of the Oder. 1 Hornkrug. 2 Gollnow on the Ihna. 3^ Naugard. A Penitentiary here. 2A Plathe. 2* Reselkow. 3| Cdrlin. 18 m. N.W., close to the sea, lies Colberg (Inn, Kdnig von Preussen J, a fortress bravely defended against the French in 1806-7. The modern Rathhavs, and the Marienkirche, with its antiquities, candelabra with statues of apostles, and carved wood- work, merit notice. 3% Coslin. Inn, Bar, 4 m. from the Baltic, the largest town on the road. 2i Pankenin. 2J Schawe. 3£ Stolpe. Kutscher’s Inn. 3^ Poganitz. 3^ Lauenburg. 2 Klein-Anke'rholz. 2jt Neustadt. 3x Katz, on the Baltic shore. 2J Danzig, in Route 77. ROUTE 76. STETTIN TO STRALSUND AND THE ISLAND OF RUGEN---THE BATHS OF FUTBUS. Riigen, the largest island belonging to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, separated only by the narrow strait (of Gellen) from Prussian Pomerania, in which province it is included. It abounds in romantic scenery, on ac- count of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it affords, it is much frequented in summer by visitors from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resem- blance to the English Island in the conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is fur- ther distinguished by the narrow bays or bights which penetrate far inland. Steamers in summer from Swine- in unde to Putbus, in 8 to 10 hours, 4 times a week. There is an excellent post road from Stettin by Pasewalk, passing the fine Rothmiiller Wald, to Anclam. Picturesque gate tower; the town contains many specimens of the peculiar style of the Hanseatic or N. German architecture very like the Flemish. Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus), a curious old sea-port town, of 8000 inhab., possessing an University, found- ed 1456, which numbers about 200 students. The square and churches are highly grotesque. There are 2 Ferries across the Strait separating Riigen from the mainland : — 1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer T410 route.76.—stettin to straxsund. pijtbus. Sect.VI. F'dhre. At Glewitz"the landing place (2§ German m.), conveyances may usually be hired to Putbus, 2| German miles by Garz. 2d. From Stralsund by the kite F'dhre, a shorter and safer passage in stormy weather, the strait not being more than a mile broad here; the other ferry is 2 miles. Stralsund (Inn, Lowe (lion), in the Alten Markt, best), an interesting and nearly unaltered town, was formerly capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a fortress of great strength. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situ- ated on the borders of the strait called Gellen, separating Riigen from the mainland. The town is entirely sur- rounded by water, and approachable from the S. only by bridges. It has 17,000 inhab. The Nicolai Kirche, of brick, begun 1311, is very lofty, richly ornamented within, and con- tains a good deal to see; an iron screen all round the choir worthy of imita- tion, and much painting and carving, also an engraved monumental brass, 1354 (?); the view from , its tower is remarkable. The Rathhaus, a fine edi- fice surmounted by 7 towers, was built 1316; within it is shown the stone on which the indefatigable Charles XII. was found, by the sentinel on duty outside the walls, fast asleep, before the gate, on his return from Bender. Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, without authority from his sovereign, in the^ hope of freeing Germany from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie, in the Fahrstrasse ; a stone marks the spot. The public fountain is named after him, Schillsbrunnen. A simple marble monument, bearing the inscrip- tion “ Magna voluisse magnum,” marks the spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground, where the remains of that brave sol- dier, robbed of the head, were origi- nally interred ; but they have lately been removed to Brunswick. During the 30 Years’ "War (1628) Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the previously ir- resistible Wallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, “ even though it were fastened by chains to heaven ; ” vowing vengeance upon the child un- born, when he should gain possession.’ This impious boast, however, was not destined to be fulfilled, for through the brave defence of its citizens, aided by a party of Scotch mercenaries, in the pay of Denmark, he was at last compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men before its walls. In 1715, the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prussians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., then re-* cently escaped from Turkey, conducted the defence for a considerable time ; at length he was obliged to retire, and the town surrendered to Denmark. 2 Prussian and 2 Swedish Steamers to Ystad and Stockholm, Tuesday and Thursday. (Handbook for Denmark.) Schnellpost daily to Passow on the Berlin and Stettin railway.; to Rostock. In going from Stralsund to Putbus, the old Ferry, Altfahre, about a mile broad, is crossed. 2| Garz. Busch’s Inn. lj Putbus. — Inns: Fiirstenhof, best; Bellevue; Schwartz’s. A bed- room costs ll£ Sgr. ; dinner, 12£ Sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent inhab., belonging to the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal de- scendant of the ancient Kings of Riigen. His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the prin- cipal building in the place. It con- tains a chapel, library, some good paintings, and statues (3 by Thor- waldsen), and a collection of antiqui- ties -found in the island. Adjoining the Palace is the Saloon or dining- room, where there is a daily table- d’hote, and the Pavilion, containing assembly and music rooms for the use of the visitors; the Theatre, and the Neio School, opened 1836. Attached to the palace is a delightful Park, with gardens and pleasure grounds open to the public. The Prince’s stables contain a very superior stud. A mile from Putbus, on the sea- shore is the Badhaus, supplied with warm sea-baths. There are also bathing-machines for those who perfer the open sea.:Prussia. route 76.—sagard. stubbenkammer. 411 The great attraction* of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders of a bay with an island in front. High wooded banks and long indented pro- montories shelter it from the Baltic. It bears a miniature resemblance' to the bay of Naples. From the excel- lent accommodation furnished by the lodging-houses, Putbus is the best head quarters for those who intend to explore the island. All charges are fixed by printed tariff. The Prince’s agent lets out horses and carriages for hire at a moderate charge. . The Steamer from Swinemiinde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lau- terbach, 2 miles from the Baths. Pas- sengers arriving by the boat, and in- tending to return by- it, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, set out at once on the excursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return. The following sketch .of a tour round the Island includes all the most remark- able objects, starting from Putbus to the 1 £ Jaghaus (Inn in summer), a hand- some hunting lodge of Prince Putbus, commanding a delightful view over the hills called Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called Schmaler Heide, which unites the pro- montory Jasmund to the main island. Sagard.—Inn, Fiirstenkrone. Near this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth. The N. extremity of the island Rugen consists of a long narrow pe- ninsula, or rather of two peninsulas ; that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of Wittow, connected with each other and the main island by two narrow necks Of land. The length of this united promontory is about 25 miles. The bay or firth which it encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, at which car- riages and foot passengers can be trans- ferred from one side to the other; thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona. Beyond Sagard, the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here the goddess Hertha (Earth) was wor- shipped by the Pagan Saxons, and here stood her temple described by Tacitus. It abounds in stone sepulchres, called Hunengraber by the peasants, in which skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole dis- trict is likewise celebrated in Scandi- navian poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mysterious grove lies the Hertha See, called the Black Lake, from the dark shadows of the beech woods around; it is still looked on with veneration by the inhabitants.' It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess additional interest; if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown after an existence of 12 centuries: Odoacer, who finally captured the Im- perial city, was king of the Riigii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed his army was this remote and insignificant island, and the neighbour- ing coast of Pomerania. 3 Immediately beyond the Herthft See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a precipice of chalk, 440 feet high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shak- speare’s cliff at Dover. A large Inn, called Gross Schweitzer Haus, has been built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock leads from the shore to the highest summit, called Konigsstuhh Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the W. the promontory of Arkona, the most northern point of Rugen, stretches far out into the sea. The Stubbenkammer is about 20 miles distant from Putbus, and 15 from Bergen. Close to this is the Hertlia- burg, an eminence crowned by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment constructed by the ancient Sclavic inhabitants of the island. Within the enclosure, the Temple of the Heathen goddess Hertha is said to have stood. At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, a rude block traversed by a groove or channel, to collect, it is conjectured, the blood of human victims. Spieker, a country seat of Prince Putbus, is a t 2412 ROUTE 77____BERLIN TO DANZIG. Sect. YI. fanciful castle, built by Baron Wrangel, after the 30 Years’ War. The way from Stubbenkammer to Arkona lies along another narrow tongue of land, called Die Schabe, which unites the promontory Jasmund to that of Wittow. At the village of Altenkirchen (Haas’s Inn), the poet Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is bu- ried. For 8 successive Sundays, during the season of the herring fishery, the minister preaches upon the shore to the fishermen assembled around him in their boats, from the neighbouring islands. A figure, said to be of the idol Swan- tewit, is built into the wall of the Church. 4 Arkona, the most northern pro- montory of the island, partly a chalk cliff, 173 feet above the sea, is sur- mounted by a lighthouse, which fur- nishes accommodation to travellers. The view from it extends over the coast of the promontory Jasmund, to the island Hiddensoe, and to the more dis- tant Danish island Moen. Upon Arkona stands the ancient Fortress of the Wends, who at one period inhabited this island, called Burgring. It is a circular entrench- ment, from 30 to 40 yards high, with an opening to the N. W. Within it stood the temple of the god Swantevit, destroyed by the Danes under King Waldemar, who took it by storm 1168, carried off its treasures to Denmark, and introduced Christianity into the island. Saxo Grammaticus, the histo- rian, was present at the capture. Travellers must now either return by Altenkirchen and Wiek to the Wittow Ferry, and after crossing it, proceed .direct to 5£ Bergen, or they may prolong their ■tour by taking boat, and making an excursion to the neighbouring island Hiddensoe, whose inhabitants, a poor and primitive race, not much raised above the condition of Esquimaux, live chiefly in turf-covered huts, and support themselves by fishing. Many of them spend their whole lives on the spot, and never set foot even on Rugen. There is not a bush on the whole island; for fuel the people have recourse to peat or cow-dung ; yet, with so few attractions, the island is said to be dear to its child- ren, who call it “dat sote lanne,” the sweet little land. Bergen (Inn, Golden Anker) is the chief town in Rugen, and has 2600 in- hab. To the N. of it rises the hill of Rugard, the highest in Rugen, sur- mounted by the ruins of the ancient fortress destroyed 1316. From this spot the whole island with its deeply in- dented shores, may be surveyed, as a map laid open at the spectator’s feet. The distance hence to Stralsund is about 16 miles, including the ferry. From Bergen to Putbus is 6 miles. Plan for an excursion of 1 dag round Rugen, starting from Putbus: to the Jagdschloss, Schmaeler See, Prora and the Schanzenberg, by Lanken and the new wood-road to Stubbenkammer ; return by Sagard, the Jasmund ferry, and Bergen, to Putbus. Distance about 45 miles. ROUTE 77. BERLIN TO DANZIG. 6l£ Pruss. miles =284 Eng. miles. Courier 4 times a week in 37 hours,— Personen-post daily in 52 hours. The quickest way at present, owing to the Railroad, is by Stettin; Schnellpost twice a week. (Route 75.) The coun- try is dull and uninteresting all the way 'to Danzig ; the road is macadamised, and good all the way ; the inns are for the most part bad, so that those who can bear the fatigue had better sleep in their carriage at night, instead of stop- ping by the way : the journey to Danzig may thus be performed in 48 hours. 24- Dahlwitz. 2x Lichtenau. 2} Miincheberg. Here the post road to Frankfurt on the Oder branches off. 2j Seelow. 24 Kiistrin. — Inns : Kron Prinz ; Adler. A strong fortress and town of 4700 inhab., surrounded by marshes, at the junction of the Warthe with the Oder, over which a bridge 875 ft. long is thrown. Frederick the Great wasPrussia. ROUTE 77.---BERLIN TO DANZIG. 413 confined in the old castle by his impe- rious and crazy father, and compelled to look on while his friend Katte was executed on the ramparts. The great post road from Berlin to Posen and Warsaw strikes off here to the E. (Rte. 80 a.). 6 m. N. of Kiis- trin is the village of Zorndorf where Frederick the Great, with 30,000 Prussians, defeated 50,000 Russians, under Fermor, in 1758. A monument marks the spot where the king stood. The road runs nearly parallel with the Warthe, as far as 34 Balz. — Inn, Post. 3 Landsberg.—Inn, Golden Hirscli, good. A flourishing small town, of 10,000 inhab. 34 Friedeberg. Several small lakes are passed on this stage. 2^ Woldenberg. The country is rather picturesque as far as 2 Hochzeit, and is ornamented by other lakes. 1 Ziitzer. 2£ Ruschendorf. Here the road to Konigsberg by Bromberg (Route 80.) diverges. 2\ Deutsche Krone. Inn, not very good. 2 Schonthal. 2 Jastrow. Inn, tolerable. 3^ Peterswalde. 3 Schlochau. 2 Konitz. — Inns: Lowe; Kron- prinz. A town with a population of 2600.' A monument commemorates the defeat of the Hussites. On the Kreutzberg, outside the town, Casimir of Poland was defeated by the K nights ofthe Teutonic Order, and lost his crown. 4 Czersk. 3 Frankenfelde. Forests. 3 Preussisch-Stargard.^— Inn, Gol- dene Krone; tolerable. 3 Dirschau on the Vistula (Weich- sel); here the road to Danzig turns off* from that to Konigsberg ; the traveller who does not intend to visit Danzig continues on direct to Marien- burg. 4£ Danzig (in Polish, Gdansk). — Inns : H. de Berlin, good ; Englisches Haus. Danzig, one of the oldest cities in Prussia, abounding in picturesque old buildings, is situated on the left bank of the W. arm of the Vistula, or Weichsel, about 3 m. above its influx into the sea, It is traversed by 2 tri- butaries of that river, the Mottlau and Radaune, and has 62,000 inhab. It is a fortress of the first class, and the principal sea-port of Prussia. It was anciently a leading member of the Hanseatic League, and a free city: it is still a place of great commerce, espe- cially in wheat brought down the Vis- tula from Poland, and other corn-pro- ducing countries, and shipped from hence to all parts of Europe. The exports of wheat are greater than from any other port in the world. Here are extensive distilleries of brandy, which hence gets the name of Danzig. The granaries, of enormous dimensions, capable of holding 500,000 quarters of corn, are situated on an island called Speicher lnsel. To avoid the risk of fire, no one lives upon it, nor are lights ever admitted. The timber trade is also very considerable. The chief object of curiosity is the Cathedral (Dom, or Marienkirche), begun in 1343, by Von Waizan, grand master of the Teutonic knights, who sent an architect, Ulric Ritter of Stras- burg, to Constantinople, to make drawings of the church of St. Sophia there. The plan of copying that edifice, however, was not carried into execution. The church* as it now stands, was not finished till 1503. The vaulted roof, supported by 26 slender brick pillars, is 98 ft. above the pave- ment. Around the interior are 50 chapels, originally founded by the chief citizens as burial-places for themselves and their families. It possesses a fine brass font, cast in 1554, in the Nether- lands ; and an astronomical clock, which has long ceased to move. It was made by an artist named Duringer, who, according to the story, was de- prived of his eyesight by the citizens of Danzig, to prevent his making a similar clock for the rival town of Hamburg. The blind artist, a short time before his death, was led, by his desire, to the spot where his master- piece was placed; and, with a pair of414 route 77.—Berlin to dauzig. Sect. YI. scissors, cut a single small wire, which sufficed at once to stop the clock, and no subsequent attempt has succeeded in repairing the injury. Such is the tradition. The great ornament of the Dom is the celebrated Last Judgment, attributed to John Van Eyck (it has also been attributed to M. Wohlgemuth, Hugo van der Goes, and Justus of Ghent, see Kugler, § xvii. note by Sir E. Head), known as the Danzig Picture. It was painted for the Pope, and while on its way to Rome was intercepted by pirates ; but was retaken by a Danzig Vessel, and deposited in the Cathedral, where it remained till 1807, when the French transported it to Paris. “ On Its return, after the war, the king of Prussia was very anxious to retain it at Berlin, and offered 40,000 dollars as a compensation; but yielded to the pressing instances of the rightful owners for its restoration.” The picture is said to bear about it the date 1367 ; if so, it cannot be by the Van Eycks, as they were but just born at that time. A crucifix, carved on wood in a very admirable style of art, and with great truth of , expression, is the second .curiosity of this church. It has been here since the middle of the 15tli cent., ,but the artist’s, name is unknown. According to the story, he actually crucified one of his apprentices, in (order to study more exactly the agonies of a human^being dying under, such circumstances. , . The Long Market abounds in antique buildings; the finest is the Exchange, called Arthushof, an imposing Gothic edifice, built 1379. In its great hall, the vaulted roof of which is supported by 4 slender pillars, the guilds and cor- porations formerly met. Their laws, in rhyme, are still hung up in it; and its walls are further decorated with carvings, old armour, and pictures; fhe most singular of which is a repre- sentation of the church, under the form of a ship, sailing to heaven full of monks, who are throwing out ropes, hooks, &c., to haul on board a few miserable sinners, who but for their assistance would inevitably be drowned. Notice should be taken of two pictures by Danzig artists, a Last Judgment, by A. Muller, a pupil of Raphael, 1601, and a Madonna and Christ, by Andreas Steck. In front is a fine fountain, ornamented with bronze figures of Neptune drawn by sea-horses. Not far from the Arthushof is the Senate House, built probably in 1311, with a belfry, dating from 1581. The tall brick tower, called Stockthurm (1346), was originally one of the entrances into the town : it is now a prison. The Griine Thor, a large building, originally designed as a lodging for the King of Poland, is now converted into a Museum. The collection of im- plements, dresses, etc., was presented by Sir Joseph Banks. There is a theatre here. A British consul resides here. One quarter of the town is called Schott- land, from a colony of Scotch weavers who settled here in the 14th century. By means of the gigantic sluice-gates near the Lege Thor, the country around three sides of the town can be laid under water, so as to contribute ma- terially to its defence from an hostile attack. There are besides several strong external forts, as the Hagelsberg and the Bischofsberg ; the last has been greatly strengthened of late, and com- pletely commands the town. P'ahrenheit the optician, who invented the thermometer named after him, was born here. Marshal Lefebre, Napo- leon’s general, was created by him Duke of Danzig, in consequence of his having taken the town in 1807. It was yielded back to the Prussians in 1813, after an obstinate resistance, maintained by the French under General Rapp for many months, until the town was reduced, by famine and pestilence, to the lowest depth pf dis- tress. The port of Danzig is Neufahrwasser, at the mouth of the western arm of the Vistula. It is defended by the fort Weichselmunde, has a light-house and an extensive pier at the entrance of the channel. Steamboats daily, except Sunday, to Konigsberg. Schnellposts to Stettin, Konigsberg, and Berlin, At the Convent of Oliva (suppressed 1830), 7 m. N. W. of Danzig, the treaty of peace between Sweden and PolandPrussia. , ROUTE 78.—DANZIG TO K.ONIGSBERG. 415 was signed 1660. The Church and clois- ters remain. The Abbot’s Castle now belongs to the King, and has fine grounds. ROUTE 78. DANZIG TO Ko NIGS BERG. _ 24^ Pruss. m. =113^ Eng. m. . Courier-post, 5 times a-week, in 17 hours. In going from Danzig to Konigsberg, the preceding route must be retraced as far as - 4| Dirschau. The W. arm of the Vistula is here crossed by a ferry, and the road then traverses the fertile trian- gular plain, or Delta, deposited by the river, which is bounded at the further extremity by.the eastern arm, called Nogath. The country between the Vistula and :Nogath lies below the level of these rivers and of the Baltic, and is protected firom inundations solely by dykes and wind-mills, as is the case in Holland. A bridge of boats is thrown across the Nogath, and on its right bank stands ■ 2^ Marienhurg. Inn, Hochmeister. An ancient town of 5400 inhab., chiefly remarkable as the seat of the once powerful Knights of theTeutonicOrder, to whom this country was ceded in the }3th cent, by the King of Poland. After a struggle of 58 years, the knights effectually subdued the pagan and then barbarous Prussians. The germ of the present Prussian empire sprung, in fact, from them; and they appear likewise to have laid the foundation of that military spirit which still animates the nation. The Castle, or Palace of the Grand Masters, an imposing edifice, in a style of Gothic peculiar to the vicinity of the Baltic, was built at different periods; the Alte Schloss, now much decayed, in 1276 ; the Middle Castle in 1309, at the time when the seat of the Order was removed hither from Venice ; in 1457 it was surrendered to the Poles, after having been in the possession of the Order 148 years, and having been governed by 17 Grand Masters. The Chapter-House (Remter) in which assemblies of the Order were held, and foreign ambassadors received, is a circular apartment, supported by a single pillar of granite in the centre. The Poles, while besieging Marienburg in 1410, endeavoured to aim a cannon- ball so as to shoot away this pillar, and overwhelm at one blow beneath the ruins the Grand Master and all his knights, whom they knew, from the information of a deserter, to be at the time assembled in conclave. The ball missed its aim, but lodged in a corner of the chimney, where it still remains; The Church, in a very chaste style; and tolerably perfect,'is decorated ex- ternally with a figure of the Virgin, in relief, of stucco covered with coloured and gilt mosaic, 26 feet high; it dis- plays considerable skill and knowledge of art. Many of the Grand Masters of the Order repose in vaults beneath the Church, in simple coffins. Many cells of the knightly monks, and .their subterranean dungeons, still exist. The building has been rescued from ruin, and partly restored by the taste and munificence of the King. The Butter- milk Tower is so called, because, accord- ing to the tradition, the peasants, com- pelled to build it by forced labour for the Order, were also obliged to slake the lime with buttermilk. Beyond Marienburg, the road passes through a populous country, abounding in villages, and showing evidences of prosperity and improvement. 4^ Elbing.—rlnn, Stadt Berlin. A flourishing trading town, with a popu- lation of 24,000, on the Elbing, a navigable stream emptying itself into the Frische Half, an extensive lake sepa- rated from the Baltic by a narrow strip of land, and receiving a large portion of the waters of the Vistula. ,, On quitting Elbing a good view is obtained of it. Steamers ply to K onigsberg daily. 2 Hiitte. 15 Frauenburg, a small town on the shore of the HafF. Copernicus, the great astronomer, died here, and is buried in the Cathedral, a handsome building on a height overlooking the town and HafF (erected 1342), contain- ing, besides his tomb, which is a simple tablet bearing a globe, some curiosities, as crucifixes, monstrances, &c. Coper- nicus was a canon of the cathedral, and416 ROUTE 78.—KONIGSBERG. CATHEDRAL. Sect. VI. lived in one of the houses which sur- round it. Within the enclosure is a well, furnished with water by an aque- duct and Jiydraulic works, constructed by him. The machinery of the pumps which he erected has long since dis- appeared, but a model of it is still pre- served in the cathedral, and is supposed to have been imitated in the waterworks at Marly, near Versailles. The tower which contained it still stands near the cathedra], and is called Kunst Thurm. It bears on its southern wall the follow- ing inscription : — “ Hie patienter aquae sursum properare coactae, Ne carcat sitiens incola montis ope. Quod Natura negat, tribuit Copernicus arte ; Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus.” Besides supplying the Domberg, or cathedral hill, he introduced into the town, by collecting the neighbouring streams, a current of water sufficient to turn a corn mill, an advantage which its inhabitants did not before enjoy. It is a curious fact, and perhaps not generally known, that the Papal excom- munication of Copernicus, for publish- ing his system of the Heavens, was revoked in 1821. 1^- Braunsberg.— Inns: Deutsches Haus; Schwarzer Adler. A town of 7300 inhab., on the Passarge. Baron Trenck, the prisoner, was born here. 2^ Quilitten. The road continues by the water-side all the way to Konigs- berg. 24 Brandenburg. 2| Konigsberg (Polish', Krolew- lecz; Latin, Regiomontum; Lithu- anian, Karalanczug). Inns ; Schon- berg’s Hotel; Rheinischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. Konigsberg, once the capital of Prussia Proper, and long the residence of the Electors of Brandenburg, still ranks as third city in the Prussian do- minions in extent of population, having 80,000 inhab. It is being strongly re- fortified, on the plan of detached forts. The Defensions Caserne is finished. Its Palace (Schloss), now converted into a government-house, was founded by Ottokar, King of Bohemia, after leading a crusade against the heathen Preussi, 1257. It afterwards became the residence of the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order. Under one wing is a large wine cellar, extending below the ground; over it is the Schloss- kirche, in which Frederick Elector of Brandenburg in 1701 placed the crown on his own head, assuming the title of Frederick I. King of Prussia. Above the church is a vast hall, 300 ft. long, 60 broad, and only 19 high, destitute of ornament, called Moskowitzer Saal. A thick pillar runs through every floor from the cellar upwards, and on break- ing into it some years ago, it was found to be hollow, and partly filled with bones of persons.executed during the rule of the Order, and whose bodies had been thrown down from above. One of the apartments is termed the Amber Chamber, from being decorated with that mineral. The Cathedral, in the quarter called Kneiphof, On an island in the Pregel, built 1332, is the finest edifice here, and deserves notice. It contains the monuments of some of the Dukes of Brandenburg, of many Teutonic Knights, and of Kant, the metaphy- sician, author of the System of Pure Reason, as it is called, who died here in 1804. The house in which he lived still exists in the Princessinn Strasse ; it is now a coffee-house. The University, founded 1544 by the Markgrave Albert, and called the Albertina, has about 450 stu- dents, and a Library of 60,000 volumes deposited in one of the towers of the Cathedral. It contains several manu- scripts of Luther, a letter from him to his wife Catherine a Bora, and the safe conduct given to him by the Empr. Charles V. to enable him to travel to Worms. A bust of Kant, by Scha- dow, is placed in the Academic Hall. Konigsberg is the see of the first Pro- testant Prussian Archbishop. The Scldoss-Teich is a pretty sheet of water, surrounded by gardens, near the Palace. A bridge leads over it to the Konigs-Garten, where a statue of the late king by Kiss is to be set up. After the fatal battle of Jena, the. Prussian royal family escaped to this place; and, on the approach of thePrussia. ROUTE 79.—KONIGSBERG TO MEMEL. 417 French, were driven to take refuge in Memel. A British Consul resides here. The chief journals of Europe are to be found at the Borsenhalle. The river Pregel, on which Kdnigs- berg is built, is not sufficiently deep to admit large vessels, which, therefore, unload at Pillau, the sea-port of Konigsberg, a flourishing little town of 4000 inhab., on the Baltic, at the en- trance of the saltwater lake called Frische HafT. The trade of Konigs- berg consists of corn, hemp, flax, lin- seed, tallow, bristles, wax, &c„ but it has fallen off since the end of the last century, when it had reached the height of prosperity. There is a considerable fishery of sturgeon at Pillau. An ex- tensive trade in amber was formerly carried on at Konigsberg ; there were at one time 70 amber turners in the town. That substance is still one of its exports; the chief Consumption of it being in the Levant, where it is sold for pipe mouth-pieces. Amber is found all along the coast of East and West Prussia. A large quantity is ob- tained from the sea, which after high winds, especially those blowing from the N., throws up a vast accumulation of sea-weed. The amber fishers, sta- tioned on the shore wait till the floating sea-weed approaches near to it. They then send in their people up .to their necks in water, provided with nets, by which they draw the weeds to land. The amber is found adhering to, or entangled in them, and is immediately' collected and sorted by women and children. In one instance an attempt was made to employ divers to collect it from the bottom, but this failed. Much amber is obtained by digging up the soil even at a considerable distance from the sea. It usually occurs near the surface, but in some instances shafts have been successfully sunk. The spots where it has been found in greatest quantity are Gross Hube- nicken, Warnicken, and Griinhof The trade in amber was first appropriated by the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, who often paid the entire ex- penses of their court out of the revenue I derived from this source. It after- wards became a royal monopoly, and was guarded in early times by laws of the utmost severity. Watchmen were stationed all along the coast, and the peasant who concealed or attempted to dispose of any pieces he had found was condemned to be hung up to the nearest tree. Afterwards a range of gallows was set up on the shore in terrorem. Since the commencement of the pre- sent century, the government has let out the right of collecting amber to private contractors for 10,000 dollars yearly, and though these rigorous enactments are now modified, a person who retains a piece of amber found accidentally is liable to be punished for theft. The inhabitants of Konigs- berg are allowed to bathe only at one particular spot, and cannot wander along the sands without subjecting themselves to be searched by the strand riders set to watch. Steamers daily to Pillau and Elbingv —to Danzig. ROUTE 79. KONIGSBERG TO MEMEL BY TILSIT. 29j Pruss. m. = 137 Eng. miles. Personenpost daily to Tilsit, to* which place the road is macadamised. There is a second and more direct road to Memel along the Strand, a narrow tongue of sand between the Baltic and the Kurische Haff; but, as it is very ill kept, and not provided^ with post-horses, it is little used. “ It was formerly the most frequented, andr were it not insufferably tedious, with an awkward ferry across the port of Memel at the end, would be worth travelling for its singularity. There are 3 posts between Konigsberg and Memel on the tongue of sand. As it is impossible to make a firm road, the carriage must be driven with one wheel almost in the sea, and it re- quires 1 or 2 additional horses. The Nehrung, as the sand-bank is called, is like the Dunes of Holland, but it seems difficult to conceive that such broad, high, and steep hills can be all t 5418 E. 80.—BERLIN TO DANZIG. 80a.—BERLIN TO POSEN. Sect.VL drift sand. The name Kurische Haff is derived from the Kurs, inhabitants of the neighbouring Courland. The traveller obliged to walk by the side of his carriage will have plenty of time to seek for amber.”—F. S. ■ Pogauen. 2i Tapiau, a town of 3000 inhab. The castle, built by the Teutonic knights, is now a poor-house. 2^ Taplaken. S Melilawischken. 2£ Kelmienen. 24 Tilsit (Cronopolis). — Lins: Priuz Wilhelm ; H. de Russie. A town of 12,000 inhab., earned from the Tilse, a small stream which falls into the Memel, here crossed by a bridge of boats, 1150 ft. long. Upon a raft, moored a little below it, in the middle of the river, Napoleon, the Empr. Alexander of. Russia, and the King of Prussia met, July 9. ,1807, to sign the treaty of Tilsit, by which half the territory of Prussia was se- vered from her. The new road from Berlin to St. Petersburg avoids Memel altogether, and stretches across at once by Tau- roggen to Mittau and Riga, thus saving a distance of 14 Pruss. m.— From Tilsit to Memel the road is bad. 31 Szameitkehmen. 2| Werdenberg. l| Norkaiten. 2^ Prokuls. 3 Memel. —- Inns : H. de Russie; Sonne. This is the most northern town of Prussia. It lies at the en- trance of the Kurische Haff, and has 9000 inhab. It is the central point of the Baltic timber trade, and exports also a vast quantity of raw hides. A British Consul resides here. ROUTE 80. BERLIN TO DANZIG BY BAOMBERG. 69 Pruss. m. = 324 Eng. miles. A- macadamised road. Schnellpost in 65 hours. The same road as Route 77. as far as 30.1 Ruschendorf. 1# Arnsfelde. 2| Schneidemiihl. — Inn, Goldener Lowe. A town of 3000 inhab. 21 Grabowo. 21 Wirsitz. 3^ Nakel----Inn, the Post. A town of 2000 inhabitants. 4 Bromberg. — Inns: H. Moritz; Hotel de Berlin, in the Posener Vor- stadt. A town of 8000 inhab., on the Brahe. The canal which passes this town was made by Frederick the Great, and serves to. open a commu- nication between the Vistula and the Oder. Schnellpost daily to Danzig. The road runs along the 1. bank of the Vistula, generally within view of it, and is macadamised. * 34 Niewiesczyn. ,-2J Schwetz. On the rt. bank of the Vistula lies Culm, a town of. 5000 inhab. Truffles abound here. 24 Gruppe. On the rt. bank lies the strong fortress of Graudenz, with 9000 inhab. It was not yielded up to the French. 3 Neuenburg. A road leads from this across the river to Marienburg. Me we. 4 Dirschau. 1 44 Danzig. .) 413. Rte. 77. ROUTE 80 a. BERLIN TO POSEN. 334 Ptfuss. m. = about 163 Eng. m. An excellent chaussee. The posting well conducted. Schnellpost daily in 27 hours. 114 Kiistrin. Thus far along the Danzig road, Route 77. 24 Limritz. 2x Waldowstrenk. 24 Schwerin, a small but good sleep- ing place. 44 Kaehme. 3 Pinne, 34 Gay. 3 Posen. — Inns : H. de Vienne, good and reasonable; H. de Saxe. The capital of the province is a cheer- ful town of 38,000 inhab., including 5600 Jews, situated on the river Warte.Prussia. . ROUTE 806.—POSEN TO STETTIN. 419 It is a strong fortress on the frontier of Russia. Very interesting and pic- turesque fortifications are in progress of construction here. The system adopted differs from that used at Cob- lentz, and is attributed to Col. Breza,. of the Prussian Engineers. . The Ch. of St. Stanislaus is a fine building in the Italian style. The Gothic Dom is distinguished by the simplicity of its architecture. The Golden Chapel has been painted and gilt in the Byzantine style at Count Raczynsky’s expense. Two bronze statues of the first kings of Poland, by Rauch, merit notice.. The Rathhaus is a Gothic building, and above it rises the loftiest tower in the town. A considerable wool-fair is held here in June. Posen lies on the direct road from Berlin to Warsaw, but for about 40 miles to the Russian frontier there is no chaussee but a deep sand. A good road leads from Posen to Breslau, 28 Pruss. miles, by 3 Stenszweo. 3 Kosten. lj Schmiegel. Lissa. 2A Fraustadt. 3§ Glogau. A branch railway hence to the Frankfurt and Breslau line. See Rte. 81. 2j Polkwitz. 2 Liiben. 3 Liegnitz. This is a station on the Berlin and Breslau Railway. For the route hence to Breslau, see Rte. 81. ROUTE 80 l. POSEN TO STETTIN. RAILWAY. 26 Germ. m. = 12l£ Eng. m. in about 6 hours. Posen. Rte. 80 a. Samter Stat. Wronki Stat. The railway here crosses the river Warte. Mialla Stat. The railway crosses the Netze before reaching Drage Stat. Woldenberg Stat. This is on the road from Berlin to Danzig. Rte. 77. Augustwalde Stat. The railroad proceeds near a succession of sma'l lakes or meres, to Arnswalde Stat. Dolitz Stat. Stargard Stat. A town of 10,000 inhab., on the Ihna, surrounded by perfect ramparts, watch-towers, and gates. The Marienkirche (14th cen« tury) a fine building, and the Rath- haus (16th cent.) deserve notice. In the Johanniskirche are a font, and some sculpture at the altar of some interest. The railway skirts the N. shore of the Madue lake, passing near Alt Damm and the S. shore of the Damm lake to Stettin. See Route 75. ROUTE 81. BERLIN TO FRANKFURT ON THE ODER' AND BRESLAU. --------RAILWAY. 47£ Pruss. miles = 222 Eng. m. Terminus in Berlin, near the Stra- lauer Platz. l£ Copenick Stat. on an island in the Spree. The line now skirts the lake called Miiggelsee. 1J Erkner Stat. Lime works near this. 3 Fiirstenwalde Stat, Near Rosen- garten, the line crosses the watershed between Elbe and Oder. 2 Briesen Stat. 2j Frankfurt on the Oder, Stat. — Inns : Kaiser von Russland, near the Bahnhof; Adler; Deutsches Haus. A city of 21,000 inhab., no longer fortified.. A bridge of wood, loaded with heavy stones to prevent its being washed away by floods, conducts the old town oil the 1. bank of the Oder, with the suburb on the rt. bank. The prosperity of the town arises from its situation upon the great Silesian highway, and upon a navi- gable river communicating by canals with the Vistula and the Elbe, which combine in causing the greater part of the manufactures of Silesia to pass through it; and from three consider- able fairs held here annually. It is far inferior, however, in commercial acti- t 6420 ROUTE 81.—BERLIN TO FRANKFURT. Sect. VI. vity, to its namesake on the Maine. The University was transferred to Breslau in 1810. The chief buildings are the Oberkirche, 13th cent., and the Rathhaus, 1607. A monument has been erected, beyond to Prince Leopold of who was drowned here in 1785, while attempting to rescue an unfortunate family from an inundation of the Oder. The battle of Kunersdorf, one of the most memorable of the Seven Years’ War, in which Frederick the Great encountered the united forces of Aus- tria and Russia, amounting to 80,000 men, and, though worsted, did not sustain a serious defeat, was fought within 3 m. N.E. of the town, in 1759. The poet Kleist died at Frankfurt of a wound received in that engagement. A monument has been set up to his memory. 1 Krebsjauche Stat. 1 Fiirstenberg Stat. 1 Neuzelle Stat. 2£ Guben Stat. A town of 8000 inhab., on the river Neisse, whose banks are here planted with vines. l£ Starzeddel Stat. 1^ Sommerfeld Stat. 3 Sorau Stat. A town of 5000 inhab., in a sandy plain. A road leads from here westward to Muskau, Rte. 82. 1 Hansdorf Stat. [A railway runs from this station to Glogau. Distance 9 Germ. m. Stations. — 2 Sagan. Inn, Ritter St. Georg. A town of 5500 inhab., on the Bober. The Chateau was begun by Wallenstein; attached to it is a fine garden *and park. It now belongs to the Prince of Hohenzollern Hech- ingen. 2 Sprottou Stat. — Inn, Deutsches Hans. A town of 3000 inhab. Beyond, the road runs not far from the Bober. Gloomy fir woods, rarely enlivened by a woodman’s hut, a pitch oven, or an iron forge, spread themselves over the district. 3 Quariz Stat. 2 Glogau Stat. — Inns : Deutsches Haus; Schwarzer Adler. A fortress of the bridge, Brunswick. the 2d rank on the left bank of the Oder, 12,000 inhab. The Dom upon an island dates from 1120.] 1 Halbau Stat. l£ Rausche Stat. . 1^ Kohlfurt Stat. Here the rail- way joins that from Dresden. 2^ Siegersdorf Stat. 2 Bunzlau Stat.—Inns: KronPrinz; Deutsches Hans. A small well-built town, of 5000 inhab., on the Bober, situated on the verge of the most pic- turesque as well as industrious district of Silesia, which extends as far as the mountains. In the market-place is an Iron Obelisk, by Schinkel and G. Scha- dow, to the memory of the Russian General KutusofF, who died here, 28th April, 1813. The father of German poetry, Opitz, was born in a house in the Ring, No. 66. Much pottery is made here. About 2 miles off lies the Moravian colony of Gnadenberg. 3jj Hainau Stat. 2^ Liegnitz Stat. — Inns : Rauten- kranz, good ; Schwarzer Adler. This town, of 11,700 inhab., is handsomely built, and prettily placed on the junc- tion of the Katsbach and Schwarz- wasser. The Schloss, though called old, was rebuilt 1834. In the Fiirsten- capelle, which is poor, are the monu- ments of the Piast Dukes : the family became extinct 1675, after having given 24 kings to Poland, and 123 dukes to Liegnitz, dating from 775. The build- ing of the Ritter Academie, an institu- tion for the education of the sons of Silesian nobles, is handsome. The New Cemetery for Protestants and Catholics, outside the town, on the right of the road to Breslau, should be visited. The Katsbach, though a small stream, is memorable in history from the battle named after it, gained over the French in 1813 by Bliicher, who received, as a reward for his services, the title of Prince of Wahlstadt, from a small village of that name, with a convent, now suppressed, between Liegnitz and Jauer. It had rained for four days in succession previous to the battle, and continued to rain while it lasted, so that powder was useless; and the victory was gained by thePrussia. ROUTE 81.—BERLIN TO BRESLAU. 421 bayonet and the butt-end of the musket; 102 French cannon were taken. The fiercest part of the battle raged between Wahlstadt and Eichholz, near which a monument has been erected by the King of Prussia. The convent of Wahlstadt was built to commemorate the triumph of the Christian chivalry of Europe over the barbarous hordes of Asia, in a great battle, fought near the same spot in 1241, between the Duke of Silesia and the army of the Mongul Tartars. ] £ Spittelndorf Stat. Maltsch Stat. The railway here approaches the Oder. 1 Neumarkt Stat.—Inns : Die Hoff- nung; Hohes Haus. A town of 3000 inhab. li Nimkau Stat. l£ Lissa. After the famous battle of Lissa (Leuthen), 5th Dec. 1757, in which Frederick the Great, with 30,000 men, defeated the Austrian army of 90,000, he unexpectedly rode on to the castle of Lissa, a small village on the approach to Breslau, which still remained in the hands of the Austrians. A party of Austrian officers were not a little surprised when their conqueror entered the room where they were assembled, modestly inquiring, “ Have you any room for me here, gentlemen ?” 1^ Breslau.—Inns : Goldene Gans (Golden Goose), best and good; Hotel de Silesie; Drei Berge. Breslau (a fine flourishing town) is the capital 'of Silesia, and the 2d city in Prussia in point of population, having 98,000 inhab. (28,600 R. Catholics). It is built on both banks of the Oder, which is crossed by an iron bridge. The for- tifications were partly demolished by the French in 1806-7, and since then have been levelled, and converted into Boulevards for the recreation of the inhabitants. They have been tastefully planted, and laid out ill gardens and pleasure grounds; the bastions con- verted into terraces, and the ditch into an ornamental sheet of water ; so that the whole forms a delightful belt of verdure, separating the old town from the suburbs. From, the Sand and Taschen Basteien the town is best seen; and from the Ziegel Bastei there is a good view of the Oder, which, though rarely picturesque below Bres- lau, here assumes a pleasing character. Breslau is interesting to passing tra- vellers, not only as a commercial town — bustling, prosperous, and wealthy—- but also on account of various objects of art and antiquity contained in it. . The Churches, divided between Pro- testants and Catholics, “ are exceed- ingly interesting, from the number of mural monuments and other works in alto-rilievo, which decorate their porches and exterior walls. These sculptures are of the finest style of Nuremberg art. The Cathedral of St. John, built 1170, stands upon the Dam Insel. It is exceedingly curious for its quaint, and not ungraceful architecture of red brick.” In the Lady Chapel, which has a square end, is the tomb of the founder, and some fine iron-work and brasses. The Kreutzkirche is built upon a more ancient church, and this substructure is particularly curious. The monument of Duke Henry IV., its founder (1290), with' his effigy of terra-cotta, supported by angels and priests, is curious. The bronze relief of Bp. Johann von Breslau (1496) is said to be by Peter Fischer. St. Eliza- beth possesses the highest tower in Prussia (364 feet high). It is remark- able for curious monuments of all sorts, pictures, enamels, altars, sculpture, &c. It is not common to see a Protestant church so well furnished. The church of Our Lady on the Sand has aisles higher than the nave : vaulting alternate. In the large square, called Grosse Ring, stands the antique Rathhaus, a large and quaint structure, very re- markable for its architecture within and without; built, it is supposed, at the beginning of the 14th century, by King John of Bohemia. It is deco- rated with singular sculptures, in one of which the Devil is wheeling his grandmother in a barrow. In the apartment called Furstensaal the al- legiance of the states of Silesia was tendered to its princes, and among them to Frederick the Great. The Government House, formerly the Pa-422 ROUTE 82.—DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. Sect. VI. lace of Count Hatzfeld, is a fine build- ing ; the Palace (Schloss) scarce de- serves the name. . The finest streets are the Schmiede- briicke, the Albrechts and Friedrich Wilhelm’s Strassen. The Square, named after Bliicher, is ornamented with a colossal bronze statue of him, by Rauch. The Tauenziens Platz bears a statue of the General of that name, the brave defender of Breslau against the Austrians, under Loudon, 1760. The University, transferred hither from Frankfurt on the Oder in 1811, numbers about 700 students. The building, originally an Imperial Palace, and afterwards a Jesuits’ College, con- tains one very fine apartment, called Aula Leopoldina. Connected with the University are the following col- lections : — A Museum of Natural History; the Central Library of 800,000 volumes, open daily from 9 to 12; the Cabinet of Antiquities—the larger portion are German and Sclavonic; the Picture Gallery, made up of 700 paintings, chiefly trash. The Botanic Garden is rich, and well looked after. The Theatre here is not good. It is not surprising that Breslau situated in the centre of the most pro- ductive manufacturing province of the Prussian .dominions, concentrating also the trade of a large portion of Poland and Russia, by means of the advan- tages of land and water carriage, which it possesses in the greatest perfection, should enjoy extensive and increasing prosperity. The articles of commerce are various and important. Corn; metals of many sorts from the Silesian mines; cloths, linen-, timber, and fire- wood are the principal. There are nearly 100 distilleries in the town. In addition to this, Breslau is the first market for wool on the continent. Wool-fairs are held here twice a-year, June and October. In March 1818 the youth of Prussia here rallied round their king; and here began that patriotic resistance to the French, which led to the liberation of their country, and to the occupation of Paris. Poles are very numerous, and their language so prevalent that many of the shop-boards are inscribed with it. Silesia has a considerable Sclavonic population. It was at one time ruled over by dukes of its own; when their line became extinct it was transferred to Austria, from whom it was conquered (1742) by Frederick the Great. Railroads—to Freiburgand Schweid- nitz 7§ Germ. m. (Rte. 84.)—to Ber- lin— to Cracow (Rte. 85 a.)—to Ra- tibor and Vienna (Rte. 85b.). 18 m. E. of Breslau is Oels, chief town of the mediatised principality of Brunswick-Oels, with 6000 inhab., apd a chateau. At the village of Krieblowitz, 14 miles from Breslau, Marshal Bliicher died, in 1819. (See p. 428.) ROUTE 82. DRESDEN TO BRESLAU.---RAIL WAT. 35 Pruss. miles = 163| Eng. miles. To the Saxon frontier the country is very picturesque. Radeberg Stat. Near here the rail- way crosses the Roder. 5 Bischofswerda Stat. Inn, Engel. 2^ Bautzen (Budissin) Stat. Inns : Goldene Krone, comfortable ; Das Lamm, in the suburb. The capital of Upper Lusatia (Ober Lausitz), is very beautifully situated on the Spree, and has 12,000 -inhab., who carry on flourishing manufactures of cloth and cotton. The parish Church of St. Peter is shared be- tween Catholics and Protestants. The Estates of the province hold their meet- ings in the Landhduser. A vast mo- dern-Gothic Rathhaus has lately been built. Close to the town lies the old castle of Ortenburg, formerly the resi- dence of the Margraves of Meissen, ancestors of the Saxon Royal Family, In the neighbourhood was fought the battle of Bautzen, May 1813, when Na- poleon compelled the allies to retire, after dreadful slaughter on both sides, and very little advantage on his. Here it was that Duroc, the most faithful and attached friend perhaps that hePrussiaroute 82.—lobau. gorlitz. liebwerda. 423 ever had, was shot by his side. After quitting Bautzen, the steeple of Hoch- kirch, seen on the left, marks the scene of one of the most bloody battles of the Seven Years’ War. It was fought in 1746, by night. Marshal Keith, one of Frederick’s best generals, by birth a Scotchman, who was killed in it, is buried within the church of the village ; a monument was erected to him by his brother, the Earl Mareschal. About SO miles N. of Bautzen is Muskau, once the seat of Prince Piickler Muskau, who wrote a book about England. The park is laid out in the English style, with considerable taste. Muskau is now the property of Prince Frederick of the Netherlands. 2\ Lobau Stat. (Inn, Lamm, tolera- ble) ; a town of 2500 inbab. In the ancient Ratlihaus, the deputies of the 6 towns of Lusatia met, during 5 cen- turies, from 1310 to 1814. Besides the German churches, there is a Wen- dish church diere ; 50,000 of the in- habitants of Lusatia are Wends, of Sclavonic origin, differing from the Germans even in the present day in speech, dress, and manners. A railway runs from Lobau by Herrnhut to Zittau. Length 3 J Germ, m. Herrnhut lies about 6 Eng. miles S. of Lobau. (See Route 84 a.) The first place within the frontier of Prussia is « Reichenbach Stat. Inn, Schwan. Gorlitz Stat. Inns: Goldener Baum; Brauner Hirsch. A flourish- ing little 'town, which belonged to Saxony previous to 1815; it is pic- turesquely situated on the Neisse, with 15,700 inhab. Its houses, like the towns to the eastward and those of Italy, are furnished with arcades. Much cloth and linen are made here. The Ch, of St. Peter and St. Paul (15th century), one of the largest in Saxony, is light and clean, and has 5 aisles ; the windows of the N. side, as well as the triple altar end, are hand- some. The subterranean chapel, hewn in the rook beneath, is curious. The Kreutzkirche, outside the town, on the road to Muskau, is a very curious re- presentation of the buildings and locali- ties of the Holy Sepulchre, not com- prehended in a church, but scattered about a field. It was built (1480—89) by a Burgomaster of Gorlitz, who tra- velled to Jerusalem with an architect and a painter, to copy exactly the original. His portrait may be seen in the church, an elegant building. There is a curious house opposite the inn, covered with Scripture carvings. Some picturesque towers about the town are best seen on the side of Lauban. About S m. off, in the valley of the Neisse, rises the picturesque hill of Landskrone, surmounted by basalt, and command, ing a fine view. General von Winter- feldt, another favourite officer of Fre- derick the Great, fell in battle against the Austrians on the Holzberg, near Gorlitz a monument marks the spot. From Gorlitz an excursion may be made into Bohemia, to the Baths of Liebwerda, about 18 m. distant, ro- mantically situated, and provided with good accommodation, though retired and not much frequented. The waters resemble those of Spa, There are some beautiful valleys around it, and in the neighbourhood the convent of Haindorf, and the old Castle of Friedland, from which the celebrated Wallenstein re- ceived his title of Duke. It was pre- sented to him, with its dependent estates, by the Emperor Ferdinand, as a compensation for the property he had sacrificed in his cause. It now be- longs to the Count Clam Gallas; and still contains some relics of Wallen- stein, his portrait, and his sword, with collections of armour, pictures, &c. The Upper Castle-was built by Wal- lenstein. The dungeons beneath the thick round tower are horrible. — Inn, am Schloss, good, * The ascent of the Tafelfichte, 3400 feet high, may be made from Lieb- werda, from which it is about 4 miles distant. 14 miles S. of Friedland is Reichenberg. (p. 430.) Fenzig Stat. 3^ Kohlfurt Stat. Here this rail- way joins that from Berlin to Breslau, and for the rest of the way see Rte. 81. p. 420. Breslau Terminus, p. 421.424 ROUTE 83.—THE RIESENGEBIRGE. Sect. VI. ROUTE 83. THE RIESENGEBIRGE. * BERLIN TO HIRSCHBERG, WARMBRUNN AND LANDSHUT, EXCURSION TO ADERS- BACH. The range of mountains separating Silesia from Bohemia, is called Rie- sengebirge (Giant Mountains); the chief of this chain is the Schneekoppe (Snow.head), the highest mountain in Germany north of the Danube, being 4983 feet above the sea. The outline of the chain is rather swelling than bold, but within its valleys are scenes of great beauty, enhanced in the eyes of the Germans of the north by being contrasted with the wearisome flatness and monotony of their own country. It must be understood that the scenery of the Riesengebirge will bear no com- parison with that of the Alps, either in elevation, grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties are limited to a pleasing va- riety of hill and dale, wood and water, rich verdure and fertility of soil, nu- merous towns and villages planted in romantic valleys by the sides of rivers, inhabited by an industrious population and enlivened by prosperous manufac- tures. These features give to the country an agreeable aspect; and, in conjunction with its Mineral Baths, render it annually the resort of a mul- titude of strangers. The best approaches to the Riesen- gebirge are from Dresden or Breslau. (Routes 81. and 82.) The following are some of the most interesting points proceeding from W. to E., and passing from the Saxon and Prussian into the Austrian territory. The Moravian colony of Herrnhut (p. 429.), though not within the Rie- sengebirge, lies at a short distance from their W. extremity. The Baths of Liebewerda, and Wallenstein’s castle of * Corrections and additional information respecting tlie Riesengebirge are particularly requested by the editor from any travellers personally acquainted with that district. Friedland, under the Tafelfichte (p. 423.), one of the highest of the range of the Riesengebirge, may be visited by making short detours from the high road. The tour of the Riesengebirge pro- perly begins at Hirschberg and Warm- brunn (p. 425.), which are the most central points for making excursions, and the best head-quarters, as affording tolerable accommodation. Owing to the changeableness of the weather, the ascent of the Schneekoppe, which is usually made from Hirschberg or Schmiedeberg, very often does not re- pay the trouble. The river Elbe rises from the S. base of this mountain, at the head of a beautiful valley. — The country between Hirschberg, Schmiede- berg, and Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia. No one should quit the Giant Moun- tains without exploring the Labyrinth of Adersbach (p. 427.), the most sin- gular spot in the district, but lying within the Bohemian frontier. It may be visited from Landshut, or Walden- burg; the nearest towns to it are LiebaU and Trautenau. Between Schmiede- berg and Breslau rises the Zobten, an isolated mountain ; the advanced guard, as it were, of the Riesengebirge towards the north ; commanding a very exten- sive view. The Riesengebirge are the theatre of the exploits of the mischievous spirit called Riibezahl, whose name is well translated into English by that of Number Nip (i. e. turnip numberer). There is hardly a mountain or a glen in the country without its legend of this popular demon. There are very good Inns at the towns of this district; and in remote spots on the mountains the traveller, not over fastidious, may be tolerably well accommodated, without any lux- ury, in the buildings called Baude (S£ot. Bothie), resembling somewhat the chalets of the Alps. Guides are appointed by the local authorities in the Prussian territory, and receive lj dol. a-day, for which they carry the baggage. In Austria they are not licensed, nor is their charge fixed. De-Prussia, route 83.—the riesengebirge. warmbrunn. 425 tailed information respecting the most remarkable spots in the Riesengebirge is given in this and the following Routes. The traveller coming from Berlin or Dresden should proceed by the rail- ways described in Routes 81 and 82., as far as the Bunzlau Stat. From thence an excellent macadamised road runs S. to Lowenberg; the country displays at'every step increasing natural beauties; a dense population, and a fertile soil. A constant intermixture of wood and verdure, hill and dale, give a peculiar charm to the landscape. Lowenberg.—Inns: H. du Roi; Weisses Ross. A town of 4000 inhab.; on the high road from Dresden to Breslau, and in a beautiful situation. At Neuland, in the vicinity, are con- siderable quarries of gypsum and of millstones. When about four-fifths of the stage are accomplished, a slight eminence' over which the road passes displays to the view of the traveller the fertile and populous valley of Hirsch- berg, bounded by the distant range of the Giant Mountains, “ a ravishing prospect in any country.” The Schnee- koppe is seen rising in the centre. 4J Hirschberg. — Inns : Deutsches Haus, good ; Weisses Ross. The prin- cipal town of the district is beautifully situated at the foot of the mountain, at the junction of °2 small streams, the Bober and Zacken, 1000 feet above the sea, and has about 7000 inhab. Its flourishing linen manufacture is re- duced from what it was in the middle of the last century, though a large quantity is still made here; and this is considered the central point of this branch of industry. The chief buildings are, the Gothic Catholic Church, and the Protestant Church, which has some curious mo- numents in its cemetery. The Kavalierberg, and a low fir- clad eminence called Mount Helicon, are 2 agreeable places of resort in the neighbourhood. At a distance of about 4 m. from Hirschberg, lies Warmbrunn. Inns: Schwartzer Adler, good, but dear, S.; Anker; Schwartzes Ross. This is a pretty,' retired, quiet watering-place, lying in one of the most romantic valleys of the Riesengebirge. The visitors usually amount to between 2000 and 3000 annually. July and August are considered the height of the season. The company is not so aristocratic as that which frequents the baths of To- plitz and Carlsbad. Good Prussian society is to be found ; and the owner, Count Schaffgotsch, is strenuous in his efforts to improve the place, and is anxious that it should become more known to English travellers. The lukewarm sulphureous springs resemble those of Aix; in temperature they vary from 97° to 99° Fah. They are con- sidered efficacious in cases of gout and rheumatism, &c., and owe their virtues to the presence of sulphur and alkaline salts; their odour is fetid, and not agreeable. The principal Public Baths are Das Grafliche Bad (the Count’s bath), and the Propster Bad (Prior’s bath); they are capable of containing 30 or 40 persons, and it is not un- common to see them full of bathers of both sexes. In order to accommodate the great number of bathers, they are divided into classes. The first class bathe first, paying 2 dollars a-week; the 2d pay 1 th. 10 sg.,and follow them; and the Sd, chiefly poor people, come last, and pay very little. In order to enter them, a ticket of admittance must be obtained from the master of the ceremonies. There are also private baths. The Russian Baths are the newest and best fitted up; and are pro- vided with vapour baths, in the Russian fashion. Warmbrunn originally be- longed to the Convent of Grassau, but is now the property of Count Schaff- gotsch. The building called Gallerie, or Gesellschaftshaus, comprises a ball, or assembly-room, and dining-room; where the best daily table-d’hote is to be found. The adjoining gardens and park of Count Schaffgotsch, and the allee of poplars, afford agreeable walks to invalids and water-drinkers. Gaming of every sort is strictly forbidden, under penalty of a heavy fine. Very beau- tiful glass of various colours, manu- factured in Silesia, and numerous half-426 ROUTE 83.—-THE RIESENGEBIRGE. SCHNEEKOPPE. SeCt.VL precious stones; found in the "vicinity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, may be purchased here, and will serve as memorials of the Riesengebirge, to friends at home. . Warmbrunn is, from its centrical situation, the best point for making excursions among the Riesengebirge. There are public conveyances daily in: summer hence to Breslau and Hirsch- berg. • At Briickenberg is an old Wooden Churchy which has been transported hither from Norway bit by bit, and is a. curious specimen of a style peculiar to Scandinavia. * The small river Zacken is remark- able for a phenomenon not satisfactorily explained. At times its waters sud- denly disappear, and cease to flow for several hours; after which they again burst forth, and assume their usual level. t The most agreeable walk in the neighbourhood is to the Kienast, an ancient castle now in ruins, having been destroyed by lightning. It is perched on a rock detached from the main body of the mountains, and its walls rise grandly from the brink of almost perpendicular precipices, so that it is accessible only on one side by a drawbridge. The view from it is very extensive. In ancient times the daughter of a lord of this castle, named Cunigunda, who was as cold and hard- hearted as she was beautiful, m'ade a vow to accept no one, as a lover, who should not previously ride round the castle on the top of the outer wall. She had many suitors, but upon this announcement the greater number re- tired : a few made the attempt, and were dashed ta pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady showed no signs of compunction or pity ; she desired to remain single, and was glad to be re- lieved from the importunities of so many lovers, all of whom were equally indifferent to her. At last, a knight presented himself to try the perilous adventure, whose manly beauty and engaging manners interested her so much, that she repented of her vow, and beheld him with" fear and trembling' mount the wall upon his steed. To her great joy he performed the exploit in safety ; but to her surprise, when she advanced to throw herself into his arms as her destined bridegroom, in- stead of a kiss he gave her a box on the ear and a smart reproof; and then leaping on his steed, left her in shame and amazement. It was the Land- grave Albert of Thuringia, a married man, who, wishing to avenge the death of a younger brother, had previously practised his steed in this dangerous exercise. The Schneekoppe (snow-head), or Riesenkoppe, the highest summit of the Riesengebirge, 4983 feet above the sea-level, may easily be ascended in 5 or 6 hours from Wambrunn. The traveller who makes the ascent should be prepared, if he intend to pass the night on the mountain, to sleep on hay, and he will act wisely in taking provisions with him, as the accommo- dation of the haude is far from good. He should also be prepared for mist, rains, and the probability of not seeing the view in consequence. The rOad usually taken leads by Seidorf, where guides may be found, and chairs, asses, and mules are kept for hire.— St. Anne’s Chapel—across Riibezahl’s (Number Nip’s) skittle-ground,passing the Ham- pelsbaude, a humble inn or chalet, only 20 minutes’ walk from the summit. Those who choose to pass the night on the mountain, for the sake of seeing the sun rise, will And better accommoda- tion in the Grenzbaude (called also Bohmische baude). The' top of th mountain is crowned by a small chapel, now converted into an inn, standing on the frontier line of Austria and Prussia. The prospect is extensive when the state of the weather allows it to be visible. On the side of Silesia the slop is most abrupt, but the scenery is rich and populous; on the S. towards Bo- hemia, it is wild, and descends more gradually in a series of terraces inter- sected by the rugged glen of the Riesen or Aupengrund, 2000 feet below. Bres- lau, 45 m. off, is sometimes seen from.Prussia, route 83.^—the riesengebirge. adersbach. 427 hence, it is said. The want of water, however, is a great drawback in the landscape. •* The sources of the Elbe are situated under the S. roots of the Schneekoppe. The Weisswasser is regarded as the proper source of the Elbe, and its fountain hdhd is a strong spring, which never fails, rising close to the Wiesen- baude, 4380 feet above the sea in the Weisse Wiese. Another stream from the valley called the Nawarer Wiese unites with it in the Elbegrund.. These are troublesome to reach, surrounded by marshy ground ; but the vale of the Elbe is very picturesque. The pedes- trian has the choice of descending from the Schneekoppe into Bohemia, and proceeding at once to Adersbach, and its wonderful rocks —by Klein Aupe to Schatzlar (about 4 hours), where the Burgomaster’s inn is good —and near which the Bober rises from a well in the forest. Thence to Adersbach is a walk of 6 hours,' a beautiful and gra- tifying excursion. Or if he prefer it, there are paths direct from the Schnee- koppe to Schmiedeberg; the time oc- cupied in walking-thither is about five hours. The post-road from Hirschberg thi- ther passes near the mine of felspar, which supplies material for the Berlin china. On the way lies Erdmannsdorf, seat of the ' late General Gneisenau, now the property of the King of Prus- sia, who has recently given an asylum, and allotted land here to about 400 Tyrolese Protestants, who were driven out of their native valley, the Ziller- thal, on account of their faith, by the intolerance of the Romish priesthood. The houses forming the colony are built' by the Tyrolese1 themselves, in their own peculiar and picturesque architecture. . Fischbach is the beautiful seat of the King of Prussia, in a charming situa- tion, Upon the neighbouring Ma- rianne’s lock is a colossal lion (cross), of cast iron. Further on is the Ruhe- berg, a country-house of Prince Rad- zevil. 2 Schmiedeberg.—Inns: Schwartzes Ross, good; Goldene Sterne’; Deutsches Haus. A manufacturing town, in a pleasant situation, with 3500 inhab., owing its prosperity chiefly to its ex- tensive iron furnaces, mines, &c. The road hence to Landshut is the highest in Prussia practicable for carriages, rising 2233 feet. It passes through a delightful country, within a-quarter.of an hour’s walk from the Friesensteinj a group of rocks 2888. ft. above the sea level. The view is magnificent; 2^ Landshut. — Inns : Schwartzer Rabe, good; Goldener Lowe. Roman- tically situated at the foot of the Rie- senebirge, on the Bober ; has 3500 inhab., considerable bleaching-grounds, and manufactures of linen. The convent of Griissau, with its ancient church and chapel, are worth seeing. The Rock Labyrinth of Adersbach is situated within the frontier of Bohemia* about 19 m. from Landshut, 17 from Waldenberg, and 12 from Trautenau. The Prussian Custom-house, on the road to it, is at Liebau ; the Austrian* at Kdnigshaus. The road from Liebau is very bad, and only narrow axles can traverse it at all. . Adersbach. — Inn, Traiteur Haus; good and clean, but small; delicious mountain trout may be had here. The Rocks of Adersbach are a most wonder- ful assemblage of masses of sandstone,' extending in all directions over a space 3 m. broad and 6 or 8 long, separated into fragments of various sizes by open- ings, gulfs, and fissures. “ They resem- ble those of the Heuscheuer (p. 431.) and Saxon Switzerland, but far surpiass them in size and number. You walk* as it were, in a narrow street, with im- mense smooth walls on each side of you, opening here and there into squares, whence is obtained a view of the countless number of giant rocks which surround you on all sides. This locality does not present the extraor- dinary natural figures existing at the Heuscheuer : the wonder- of Adersbach consists in the vast size and number of rocks here clustered together; and it is very annoying to have the attention diverted every moment from the con- templation of them, by the pertinacity with which the guide is determined428 ROUTE 84.—THE RTESENGEBIRGE. SCHWEIDNITZ. Sect. YI. to acquaint you with the names of various rocks, none of which bear the least resemblance to the objects after which they are called, except, perhaps, the ‘Burgomaster,’ which is curious.” — T. E. R. Among the rocks there is a remarkably fine waterfall, seen from the recesses of a grotto, affording pic- turesque effects of light and shade. By moonlight the aspect of the rocks is highly romantic. In number the rocks amount to many thousands; and often rise to a height of more than 200 ft., the highest being 280 ft. So nu- merous and intricate are the passages among them, that they form a complete labyrinth, among which there is danger of losing one's way without a guide. There can be little doubt that the whole was at one time a continuous and solid stratum of sandstone, and that it owes its present form to the passage over it of floods or currents of running water, which, haviug found their way into the crevices and clefts, have gradually worn down the softer parts into gutters and channels. The rocks, like those of the Saxon Switzer- land, belong to the formation called by the Germans Quadersandstein, corre- sponding with the Green Sand of Eng- land. Adersbach is certainly a curi- osity without parallel in Europe, and well deserves to be visited. The whole is imperial property, ,and the guide, who is to be found at the inn, at the entrance to the rocks, is entitled to a fee of 3 groschen. Landshut is in the road between Bres- lau and Prague, described in Rte. 84. ROUTE 84. THE RIESENGEBIRGE. BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ, LANDSHUT, ADERSBACH, AND BY TRAUTENAU TO PRAGUE IN BOHEMIA. The road is macadamised. A Rail- road, Germ. m. long, is opened be- tween Breslau, Schweidnitz, and Frey- burg; thence a Schnellpost daily. 14 m. from Breslau, and 3 to the rt. of the road, is Krieblowitz, where Marshal Bliicher lived and died (1819). He is buried in the open air by the roadside, under the shade of 3 lime trees. A huge block of granite was dislodged from the top of the Zobten to serve as a monument. 3^- Schiedlagwitz. E., about 6 m. off the road, is seen the Zobtenberg, an isolated mountain, rising out of the plain, and commanding a wide prospect over Silesia. 3j Schweidnitz. — Inns : Krone ; Scepter. A beautifully situated town on the Weistritz, with 10,000 inhab. It was formerly a strong fortress, but the greater part of its works were de- molished by the French in 1806. The Castle, formerly the residence of the Piast Dukes, has now become a poor- house. The town itself is dull, but the traveller will find good cause to tarry until he has explored its beau- tiful environs. The most pleasing ex- cursion is that to the Castle of Fursten- stein, a modern edifice, perched on the summit of a wooded hill. It was built about 40 years ago, on the site of an older castle, and in imitation of a feu- dal residence of the middle ages, by the Count of Hochberg, but has been recently purchased by the King of Prussia. It has an armoury, in which is preserved the camp bed of Frederick the Great; and a few family portraits decorate its walls. Its towers com- mand an admirable panorama of the surrounding country. Directly oppo- site rises another Castle, which, though called New, is as old as the 13th cen- tury, and has stood sieges from Hus- sites and Swedes. It is now converted into a dwelling, and surrounded with terraced gardens. The valley which separates the two castles is exceedingly beautiful. 1 J Freyburg.—Inn, Rother Hirsch. A town of 2000 inhab., under the Fiirstenstein. The battle of Striegau, gained by Frederick the Great, in 1745, was fought near this; in the vicinity was his fortified camp of Bunzelwitz. 5 m. from Freyburg are the Baths of Salzhrunn (Inn, Preussische Krone), a dull village, scarcely worth stoppingPrussia. ROUTE 84 a.-DRESDEN TO ZITTAU. 429 at; and 6 m. S. of Freyberg is Wal- denberg, a good station for visiting the rocks of Adersbach, about 17 m. distant. (See p. 427.) !■£ Reichenau. 2 Landshut, in page 427. 4 Trautenau. — Inn, Weisses Ross, best, but not very good. The first town in the Austrian territory ; popu. 2400. It was the birthplace (1360) of John Zisca, the Hussite leader, “ Cap- tain in the hope of God,” as he called himself. Much linen is made here. Adersbach is about 12 m. off, in a direct line (p. 427.). 2 Arnau (or Nieder Oels) has 2300 inhab., chiefly weavers. It lies on the Elbe, which takes its rise about 25 m. N. of this (p. 427.), among the roots of the Schneekoppe. A pleasant ex- cursion may be made to the source, fol- lowing its banks, and passing the pretty town of Hohenelbe (Inn, Schwartzer Adler, middling), and the cascades of Elbfall and Weisswasser. 2 Neu Faka; the Post. 2 Gitschin. — Inn, Goldener Lowe. The castle was built by Wallenstein, 1610. 2 Sobotka. 3 Jung Bunzlaw. This town of 5000 inhab., on the Iser, manufactures much printed cotton. Tycho Brahe died, 1601, in the small town of Neu Bena- tek, not far from 2 Alt Benatek. In the town of Alt Bunzlau, opposite Brandeis, is an image of the Virgin, which attracts many pil- grims. At the door of the Collegiate Church, Boleslaw, king of Bohemia, murdered, at the instigation of Draho- mira, his brother Wenceslaus, who was afterwards canonized, and now ranks as a patron saint of Bohemia. Beyond this the road crosses the Elbe by a bridge to 2 Brandeis. 3 Prague. Handbook South Ger MANY. ROUTE 84 a. DRESDEN TO ZITTAU AND REICHENBERG BY HERRNHUT. The railroad from Dresden to Bres- lau (Route 82.) is followed as far as Lobau Stat. (p. 423.), where a branch railroad, 3^ Germ. m. long, strikes off S. to Herrnhut and Zittau. Hernnhut (Inn, Gemeinlogie ; very good) is the mother colony of the sect of Moravians, or Herrnhuters. It was established by fugitives, driven from Austria in consequence of the perse* cution of the Jesuits, 1721-25. They were received by Count Zinzendorf, a Saxon nobleman, who granted them an asylum and lands on this spot; and is considered as their founder. Near the highway, in the midst of a wood inter- sected by pleasant walks, a monument marks the place where he caused the first tree to be felled in 1722, to clear ground for the settlement, the country being then a vast forest. The commu- nity derives its name of “ Herrnhuter,” i. e., “the Lord’s watch,” from a pas- sage in the 84th Psalm, “ Den Thur huten in meines Gottes Hause,” — “to watch the door in the house of my God.” It is now a flourishing little formal town, of 1400 inhab., distin- guished by the order, stillness, and cleanliness which prevail in it; situated in the midst of a somewhat tame country of undulating hills, now nearly cleared of wood. It is the seat of a bishop, and the central point of the government and commerce of the sect, which, in 1832, numbered 42 settle- ments in different parts of the world. The Moravians profess the doctrines of the Confession of Augsburg, but, ex- cepting their love for music and danc- ing, they bear, some resemblance to the Quakers in their inspirations, and the plainness of their dress. The female costume is distinguished by variously coloured ribbons. The girls wear deep red; unmarried women pink ; married, blue ; and’ widows, grey or white. The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for480 ROUTE 85.—BRESLAU TO GLATZ AND PRAGUE. Sect. VI. the articles manufactured here, and the Cemetery of the community orr the Hutberg, all deserve to he visited. The Cemetery is a very interesting spot, com- manding a lovely prospect. It is sur- rounded by a tall hedge of hornbeam, and intersected by avenues of the same, between which are laid the flat grave- stones, quite plain, and bearing merely the name, and dates of birth and death. Those of the Zinzendorf family, in the centre, alone are distinguished from the rest by their larger dimensions. That of the founder bears an inscription com- memorating his bounty. Above the Friedhof rises the Hutberg, or watch- hill, a sort of cliff or group of rocks, surmounted by a temple or look-out house, commanding a fine panorama, — a wide prospect over the town, the estate bequeathed by Count Zinzendorf to the colony, Berchtoldsdorf, contain- ing the house where he died, and in the distance the hill called the Saxon Crown. The Museum of natural history, col- lected by Moravian missionaries in the most distant corners of the earth, is interesting. The Hermhuters are an industrious community : the linen ma- nufacture of Saxony may be said to owe its development to them. Zittau. — Inns : Sonne, good ; Sax- ischer Hof. “ A fine and prosperous manufacturing town of 8000 inhab., situated on the river Neisse. It is the centre of the linen trade of Saxony; and in its immediate vicinity -cotton and woollen manufactures are extensively carried on. A splendid new Rathhaus has been built. From its proximity to the Bohemian frontier it enjoys a con- siderable traffic with that country. The mountains which here form the Saxon boundary rise to a commanding height, and, although 25 m. distant, are a pro- minent object in the view from the Saxon Switzerland. The ruins of an extensive monastery are situated on one of the hills above Zittau. In the town itself the most attractive object is the Church of St. John, in the Byzantine style.”—J. E. T. A delightful walk of 3 m. from Zit- tau brings you to the Oybin, where is a beautiful chapel in the best pointed style, partly cut in the rock; but now a-'ruin. It stands in a cave or recess in the face of the cliff, and commands an extensive view over forests and valley.) From Zittau excursions may be made to Wallenstein’s castle Friedland (p. 423.), and to the Baths of Liebwerda. Within the Bohemian frontier lies 3 Reichenberg (/«n, GoldenerLowe; middling), the most rising manufactur- ing town in Bohemia, second to Prague alone in population, having 12,000 in- hab. Its manufacture of linen is very flourishing and of great importance. This town is on the high road be- tween Gorlitz and Prague, and is 9 Germ. m. distant from Jung Buntzlau, on the road from Breslau to Prague, described in Rte. 84. ROUTE 85. BRESLAU TO GLATZ AKI) PRAGUE BY THE HEUSCHEUER. 36 Pruss. miles = 168^ Eng. miles. Schnellpost daily. N. B____An Austrian signature on the traveller's passport is indispensable before he can enter Bohemia. 2 Domslau. The country is pretty and fertile. The Zobtenberg is con- spicuous on the right; it is about 10 miles distant from 3 Jordansmiihl. Nimptsch. — Inns ; Schwartzer Bar; Weisser Schwann. A prettily situated town of 1600 inhab. The old castle is seen on the right in entering. Many bloody contests took place here during the Hussite wars. Beyond Ziitzendorf the road passes the neigh- bourhood of the Chrysoprase Mines of Kosemitz (now disused), and of Schrebsdorf. Near Protzen there is a mine of opal, 2 Frankenstein. — Inns : Deutsches Haus ; Schwartzer Adler. A town of 6000 inhab. 7 m. W. is the mountain fortress of Silberberg; it may be called the Gibraltar of Prussia, in so far as its defences, bastions, casemates, &c., are almost entirely hewn out of the solid rock. They were constructed by Fre-Prussia. route 85.—breslau to glatz and: Prague. derick the Great, to guard the passage from Bohemia; at an. expense of. 4-£ millions of Prussian dollars. The Catholic Church, in the market- place of. the little town of Wartha (through which the road passes), con- tains a miracle-working statue of the Virgin, to whose shrine, in some years, 40,000 pilgrims repair to offer up their vows and prayers. A steep road, marked by chapels, leads up to the chapel on the Wartberg, at a height of 1772 feet above the sea; the view from thence is fine. The banks of the river Neisse are very picturesque; near the town it forces a passage through the rocky gorge called Warthapass. After a steep ascent and descent, the road enters Glatz over a wooden bridge, be- tween the ancient and modern fortress. A fine view over the basin-shaped val- ley forming the County of Glatz, and of Bohemiau mountains beyond. Glatz. — Inns: Weisses Ross ; Krone; both in the suburb. A strong fortress on the Neisse, having about 9000 inhab., garrison included. A per- mission from the commandant is ne- cessary to view the works. The statue of St. John Nepomuk was placed upon the donjon, by order of Frederick the Great, after he had taken the fortress. Baron Trenck escaped from its dun- geons by jumping from the ramparts. 15 m. S. E. of Glatz are the baths of Landeck, in a picturesque country, with an excellent trout stream, running throught it. Inns: Weisser Lowe ; Scblossel; Goldene Krone. The wa- ters are tepid, sulphurous. The town is~a mile distant from the Baths; it is a good station for visiting the Sudetic mountains. 36 m. beyond Landeck, through Jawornik (a bad road), is the Water-Cure Establishment of Vincent Priessnitz at Grafenburg, a village in the Austrian territory, 18 m. from Neisse. 3 Reinerz.—Inns: Goldene Krone; Schwartzer Bar. A small town of 2100 inhab., surrounded by mountains. About a mile off, in a secluded valley, are some mineral Baths, much fre- quented in summer. A few miles N. of Reinerz rises the Heuscheuer, or aai Heiischeune (Hay-barn, so called from its shape). “ A vast assemblage of de- tached masses of rock, many of them formed into the most curious shapes, from the sculpturing of nature, and named after various objects, to which they bear a very exact resemblance. The most perfect likenesses are those of a ‘bear,’ a ‘ camel,’ a ‘seal’ (See- hund), a * Moor’s head,’ and a ‘ laugh- ing profile,’ — all natural productions.” —J. E. R. The highest point is the Grossvaters Stuhl — (Grandfather’s Chair)—2800 feet above the sea: from it the Carpathians are visible. The key of this very curious mountain is kept at Carlsberg, a little village on the W. side of it. Not far from this is the village of Alberndorf, remarkable for containing a much frequented Pilgrimage Church, with several minor chapels and sta* tions, ornamented with figures of saints; and rude paintings representing the his-, tory of Christ. In the printed de- scriptions of this town it is called a second Jerusalem ; and in order to make out a resemblance to the real Jerusalem it has twelve gates; while a stream running through it is called Brook Kedron ; and the pool of Bethesda, the house of St. Anne, and the palace of the High Priest, all have their representa- tives within the walls. The traveller puts up or is taken in at the Judg- ment-hall of Pilate! The last Prussian village is Lewin; beyond it is the Austrian custom-house. About 4 m. from Lewin, off the road, lies Cudowa, whose mineral springs furnish a chalybeate, very strongly im- pregnated with - carbonic acid gas; There are 2 lodging-houses and an as- sembly-room on the spot. The in- habitants of the village are chiefly de- scendants of Bohemian Hussites. 3 Nachod. — Inn, Lamm. The first town in Bohemia; it has 2200 inhab., chiefly weavers. Its Castle is said by some to be the birth-place of the re- nowned Wallenstein ; it belonged to his brother-in-law, Terzki, and at their death was confiscated, and bestowed upon the traitor Piccolomini. It com- mands a fine view of the whole range432 ROUTE 85 a.—BRESLAU TO CRACOW. Sect. VI. of the Riesengebirge. Nachod is a good starting point to explore these mountains. 2 Jaromierz, on the Elbe. Near this, on the left bank of the river, stands the fortress of Josephstadt. — Inn, bey Wesseley, very good. 2^ Koniggratz. — Inn, Das Goldene Lamm. Another frontier fortress, with large barracks for a garrison, and 7500 inhab.; lies on the Elbe. The Ca- thedral, and the Church and Convent, which formerly belonged to the Jesuits, are the most remarkable buildings. Much cloth is made here. From Kb- niggratz the best way to Prague is to- proceed to the Pardubitz station on the Prague and Vienna Railway, which is Sj Germ. m. distant from Koniggratz. The old post road continues as fol- lows : — 3 Chlumetz, a town of 2600 inhab., with a fine Chateau belonging to Count Kinsky. 8 Podiebrad, a town of 2800 inhab., on the rt. bank of the Elbe. The ancient Castle near it was the family seat of George Podiebrad, King of Bohemia. 2 Wellenka. 2 Gross Nehwizd. 3 Prague. Hand-book S. Ger- the battle-field of Mollwitz, where Frederick the Great defeated the Aus- trians, 10 Apr., 1741. From Brieg a branch railway runs to the town of Neisse, a distance of 61, Germ. m. The stations are 3 Grott- kau, 3£ Neisse. 4 Germ. m. south of this on the post road is Freiwaldau. Inn, Silber Krone, near which is the celebrated Water-Cure Establishment of Grafenburg, under Priessnitz. 1^ Lossen Stat. 1 Lowen Stat. After leaving this the railroad crosses the Neisse and the Oder, just before reaching 3 Oppeln Stat. Inns: Schwartzer Ad- ler, good ; Sachsischer Hof. The capi- tal of Upper Silesia, with 6800 inhab. ; formerly the residence of the Dukes of Silesia. Gogolin Stat. About 1 Germ, m. beyond this station, and at about the same distance from the railroad, is the Annaberg, on the summit of which stands a building formerly a Franciscan convent, containing a miraculous image. It is a greatly frequented place of pil- grimage, especially on St. Anna’s day. i The railroad crosses the river Klod- nitz and its canal to 2f Kandrzin Stat. On the opposite bank of the Oder, which is crossed by a wooden bridge, lies the town and fortress of Kosel, 2900 inhab. At this station the railway which connects the Upper Silesian Railway with the Prague and Vienna Railway turns off southwards to Ratibor. (See Route 85 b.) The railway to Cracow runs east- ward up the valley of the Klodnitz to 2 Rudzienietz Stat. 2^ Gleiwitz Stat. A town of 9000 inhab. on the Klodnitz, in the mining district of Upper Silesia. There are considerable iron works in the town and in the neighbourhood, also many iron mines. The railway passes on the 1. Za- brze to 2 Konigshiitte Stat.: at both which places there are large iron works. 3 Mvslowitz Stat. Beyond this the railway crosses the river Schwarze Przemsa, which was the boundary of Brieg. A little to the westward is [ Silesia and the territory of the republic ROUTE 85 a. ; BRESLAU TO CRACOW.----RAILWAY. S4j Germ. m. =160 Eng. m. Trains in about 9 hrs. This railway, as far as the Prussian and Austrian frontier, is called the Upper Silesian Rly. (Oberschlesische Eisenbahn). Breslau. Route 81. 14 Cattern Stat. 14- Leisewitz Stat. A Ohlau Stat. Inn, Goldene Krone. On the 1. bank of the Oder, has a palace and a picture gallery. Brieg. Inn, Goldenes Kreutz. On the 1. bank of the Oder, with 12,000 inhab. The palace here was formerly the residence of the Dukes ofPrussia. ROUTE 8 5 b.—BRESLAU TO VIENNA. 433 of Cracow, and now divides Silesia from the Austrian dominions. 8^ Cracow.-—Inns : Hotel de Russie; H. de la Rose; Kdnig v. Ungarn ; 37,000 inhab. Since 1846 this has been an Austrian city belonging to the pro- vince of Gallicia. Up to that time it was a free town, and the last remnant of the once great kingdom of Poland. (See, for description of Cracow, Handbook of South Germany.) ROUTE 85 b. BRESLAU TO VIENNA.--RAILWAY. Proceed by the Upper Silesian Rail- way (Oberschlesische Bahn) as far as the Kandrzin Stat. (16 Germ. m. 4^ brs.), as in Route 85 a. At Kandrzin a railway, which between this and the Austrian frontier is called the Wil- helm’s-Bahn, branches off to the S. Its length is 7^ Germ, m., which is traversed in l^hr. 2 (Germ. m. from Kandrzin) Ham- mer Stat. 2 Ratibor Stat., a town of 6000 inhab., on the Oder, which here be- comes navigable. 3^ Oderberg Stat. Here is the Austrian frontier. The railway, called the Kaiser-Ferdinand’s-Nordbahn, con- nects this with Vienna. The distance is 37 Germ, m., and the time occupied in the journey 10 hrs. At Prerau this line joins that from Prague to Vienna. (See, for the rest of this Route, Hand- book of South Germany.)434 SECTION VII. SAXONY. introductory information.—52. Money.— 53. Posting. ROUTE PAGE road to Altenhurg—the Erz- gebirge - - -477 92. Cassel to Eisenach, Meiningen, and Coburg - - - 479 93. Gottingen to Gotha, Coburg, and Bamberg, through the Thvringian Forest, with excursions to the Baths of Liebenstein, and to Schmal- hald - - - - 481 94. Leipzig to Coburg by Jena, Budolstadt, and Sonnen- berg, with excursions to Paulinzell, Sfc. in the Thu- ringian Forest - - 482 94 a. Weimar to Carlsbad, by Jena, Gera, and Altenhurg 488 94 b. Erfurt to Coburg - - 484 § 52. MONEY. Saxony has now adopted the same currency as Prussia, aiyi the other States of the Zollverein (§ 48.), of which the dollar is the unit. See § 48. Accounts must be kept in Neugroschen = silver groschen of Prussia, of which 30 make a thaler; but in private transactions, especially in inns and shops, the old mode of reckoning by gute groschen (24 to the dollar) is still in use, though prohibited by law. f 2 thaler (| mark silver) "| Silver Coins -j 1 do. do.) - >■ See § 48., p. 235. If—£-4 °f a dollar- J Kassen Scheme. — Notes of Saxony are in use as well as those of Prussia. The Leipzig and Dresden Railroad Company has also been allowed to issue paper money, but it is not taken at the public offices, nor at theatres. Gold Coins. s. d. Augustus, or piece of 5 dollars, = 16 5A Halfdo. - - - 8 2| Ducat - - - -95 ROUTE PAGE 86. Frankfurt on the Main to Leipzig, by Fulda, Eise- nach, Gotha, Erfurt, and Weimar - - - - 435 87. Leipzig to Dresden, Railway 445 88. The Saxon Switzerland (A), Dresden to Pilhiilz. The Bastei, Schandau, Kuhstall, Prebisch Thor - - 466 89. The Saxon Switzerland (B), Descent of the Elbe—Schan- dau to Dresden by Konig- stein - - - - 472 90. Dresden to Nuremberg, by Freiberg, Chemnitz, Zwick- au, and Hof - - - 473 91. Leipzig to Carlsbad, by Rail- § 53. posting tariff. The posting tariff is now the same as in Prussia (§ 49., p. 236.). 12^ Nem groschen per horse each German-mile, and 15 N. gr. for a courier’s horse. The long miles of Saxony are also abandoned for the Prussian mile.Saxony. ROUTE 86.-FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. 435 ROUTE 86. FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN TO LEIPZIG, BY TULDA, EISENACH, GOTHA, ERFURT, AND WEIMAR. Post road from Frankfurt to Eisenach, 23 Germ. m. = 107^ Eng. m. Railway from Eisenach to Leipzig, by Halle, Eisenach to Halle 25 Germ, m. =116^ Eng. m. Between Frankfurt and Leipzig the road passes through the territories of 7 different states. About 4 m. from Frankfurt it enters the Electorate of Hesse Cassel. The Elector has a chateau near Hanau, called Phillipsruhe, on the banks of the Main, about a mile to the right of the road. The Baths of Wil- helmsbad, occupying a deserted chateau in the midst of neglected gardens, lie at nearly the same distance on the left. They are resorted to by the Frank- furters; their chief attractions are the walks in the wood. A railway is being constructed between Frankfurt and Hanau. 2 Hanau. — Inns : Post; Riese, comfortable though small, but dear. This is the most considerable town of Hesse after Cassel, having 14,800 in- hah.; it is situated near the junction of the Kinzig with the Main. It was defended by Ramsay, a Scotchman, for 9 months, against the Imperialists in the 30 Years’ War. On quitting the town, the road passes the battle-field of October 30 and 31. 1813, where Napoleon, retreating from Leipzig with the wreck of his army, cut his way through the Bavarians and Austrians. The loss of the allies exceeded that of the French; it would have been greater, but for the manoeuvre of a miller, who, observing the German infantry hard pressed by a body of French cavalry, suddenly let the water into his mill- stream, between the two parties, and thus secured the retreat of his own friends. 3 Gelnhausen — (Trans : Hirsch ; Griiner Baum; Sonne, a clean country inn,) stands on the Kinzig, and has 3700 inhab. It was once an Imperial city of note, having been chosen as a residence by the Emp. Frederick Bar- barossa. The ruins of his Palace, built about 1144, still exist on an island in the Kinzig, in the lower part of the town, but are fast going to de- cay. The style of its architecture is that called by the Germans Byzantine, and shows, indeed, traces of an Eastern origin. The walls are of the most massive masonry. The chapel and the Imperial Hall ( Reichssaal) where Bar- barossa administered justice, deserve particular notice. On one side is a range of small round arches, supported by short pillars with foliated capitals; on the other is the throne of Barba- rossa, with singular bracketed columns, and ornaments resembling basket-work on the wall. The Cathedral also is interesting in an architectural point of view, as it was built in the first half of the 13th century, and shows the transition from the round into the pointed style of Go- thic, and proves the late introduction into Germany of the pointed style. It has many peculiarities,— as a twisted spire, a cupola, wood-work, and old triptychs, a stone screen, with altar towards the nave. The doorways and capitals of the columns are richly or- namented, and the windows are filled with fine stained glass. The remains of St. Peter's Church present an early example of the round arched style. The greater part of the next stage lies through a corner of Bavaria. Saalmiinster. — Inn : Post. Dol- lars and groschen here take the place of florins and kreutzers (§55.), and the posting is paid for in them. 2 Schliichtern.— Inn : Zur Goldene Sonne. 14 miles to the E., lie the Baths of Briickenau, a much frequented water- ing-place. (See Handbook, South Germany.) The road thither is im- proved, but is very hilly. The stage of 3 Germ. m. takes 3j hours; or 11 hours from Frankfurt. 2 Neuhof. ljj Fulda. —Inns : Kurfiirst (Elec- tor), very fair; Post, a neat and u 2436 ROUTE 86.—EISENACH. WARTBURG. Sect. VII. people. A town of 10,000 inhab., on the Fulda. The principal buildings are, the Cathedral, a handsome mo- dem edifice, containing the shrine of St. Boniface, in which was once de- posited the body of the saint, a much revered relic, now reduced to a frag- ment of bis skull. Here are two old figures of Charlemagne and of a Scottish princess on horseback, said to liave been converted and brought over to Germany by St. Boniface; also in the sacristy, his crozier of ivory, and the dagger with which heiwas murdered by the Frisians. The old porcelain figures of Fulda are much esteemed. The Palace was formerly the resi- dence of the prince-bishops, to whom Fulda belonged. A. statue of St. Boniface has been erected in the open space before it. St. Michael, is a very curious round church, of high anti- quity, founded 822. The existing crypt, probably of that age, is sup- ported in the centre by a stunted column, with a rude Ionic capital ; a circular passage surrounds it. The tower and Langhaus were built in 1092. Most of the monasteries have been turned to secular purposes. 2 Hiinfeld. Near the end of this stage the road quits Hesse Cassel, and enters Saxe Weimar. 2 Buttlar. — Inn, Post; nc-at and good. Fine views of the broken ridge of the Rhon-gebirge from this. Vach. Here are " two round towers, similar to those of Ireland ; one of them is perfect, and has a conical top, which, however, differs in form from those of the Irish towers. 2^ Marksuhl. The road now enters upon a portion of the Thuringerwald (Thuringian forest) ; a great portion of the country is covered with un- broken wood. On descending the last hill, to enter Eisenach, the castle of the Wartburg, Luther’s prison, is seen on the summit of a hill on the right. 2 Eisenach. — Inns : Rauten-kranz ( Rue Garland) ; Halbe Mond. This is the principal town of the Thurin- gerwald ; it is clean, thriving, and in- dustrious ; popu. 10,000; and is prettily situated, encircled by wooded hills, Sebastian Bach was born here. The oldest buildings are the Nicolaikirche, a tower and gate, the arch of which resembles Roman work. A good carriage road, to be sur- mounted in a half hour’s walk, of con- tinued ascent, leads to the Castle of Wartburg, the ancient residence of the Landgraves of Thuringia, but more remarkable as the asylum of Luther, for the space of 10 months, from May 4. 1521, to March 6. 1522. It was while returning from the Diet ot Worms, where he had so nobly stood forth in defence of his faith, unmoved by threats or cajoling, and had thereby incurred the papal excommunication, that on reaching the borders of the Thuringian forest, he was waylaid by a party of armed and vizored knights, his attendants dispersed, and himselt made prisoner. So secretly was the capture effected, that no one knew for a time what had become of him; even Luther himself, it is believed, at the moment of his seizure, was not aware that the whole was merely the device of his friend, the Elector of Saxony,, adopted with the view of rescuing him from the dangers which at that moment threatened his life. He was silently conveyed away to the. Wartburg, where he passed for a young nobleman, wear- ing a suitable dress, allowing his mus- taches to grow, and taking the name of Junker Georg (Squire George). During the time which he spent in this solitude, which he often calls his Pat- mos,” he wrote several works, and com- pleted a large portion of his translation of the Bible. The Wartburg, whose oldest por- tion, recently brought to light, dates from the 12th century, is by no means a picturesque castle, but it is finely situated, overlooking a wide-range of wild forest-clad hills. The chamber which I.uther inhabited is pointed out. His bedstead and chair have been car- ried away in chips by visitors as relics. His table has been prevented sharing the same late by a strong iron band. He has himself described in his writ- [ ings the attacks to which he was here437 Saxony. route 86.—wartburg. gotha. subjected, in his solitary hours, from the Evil One, whom he is reported to have repulsed by throwing the inkstand at his head ; and, in confirmation of the tradition, the ink spots were shown upon the plaster wall, which has, in consequence, been scraped away by the relic collectors. In another division of the castle is a very curious Armoury, in which are several beautiful suits of the 16 th and 17th centuries, and some attributed to the 13th or 14th. Many of the suits are assigned to great persons, such as Pope Julius II. and Henry II. of France, both finely worked ; that of ■“ Frederick with the bitten cheek” (so called because his mother, in the anguish of parting with him when a child, bit his cheek till the blood came), and of Lewis the leaper. Here are shown — the armour.of Kunz of Kaufungen, a robber knight of gigan- tic stature, who stole away two of the Saxon princes, and was beheaded at Freiberg; two suits, said to have been ■worn by Cunegunda and Agnes, Saxon princesses and heroines; the Constable de Bourbon’s armour, which he wore at the moment of his death, while in the act of sealing the walls of Rome ; that of Feige von Bomsen ; and- of many dukes and landgraves of Thu- ringia. The Wartburg was the resi- dence of the pious S,t. Elizabeth of to the poor from hei^ apron, and being asked what she had there, replied, " Flowers.” The husband, thinking to detect her in a falsehood, tore open the garment, and lo 1 flowers fell out. By a miracle, to cover the pious fraud, and reward the lady’s charity, the bread and eheese had been turned into roses and lilies! In 1207, the Minnesangers (Northern Troubadours) assembled on the Wartburg'to hold a trial of skill. In 1817, 500 riotous students collected here from different German universi- ties, chiefly from Jena, with several professors, and made some seditious and revolutionary speeches, which led to several arrests. The old castle has undergone repairs: a curious gallery Thuringia, who, being discovered by her stingy husband distributing victuals of Byzantine arches in the upper story has been restored with care, and the hall has been covered with modern paintings relating to its history. Though the country of Saxe-Eisen- ach belongs to Weimar, it is separated from the rest of that duchy by Saxe Gotha, and a part of Prussia. From Eisenach a railway extends to Halle, on the Berlin and Leipzig railway. 3-^ Gotha.—Inns : Der Mohr (Moor); good hotel upon the high road on the outskirts of the town. Napoleon rested for some hours in this house, on his flight from Leipzig; — Der Riese, in the market-place. Gotha, the chief town of the duchy, and, alternately with Coburg, the resi- dence of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, has a population of 13,000 souls. The Palace, called Friedenstein, is a large, but not a handsome building, conspicuous at a distance, surrounded by terraces, commanding fine views. It contains, 1st, a Picture Gallery, not of first-rate excellence, but including good Cranachs, and Dutch pictures, particularly a female portrait by Van der Heist; Rembrandt's Mother; Ru- bens' Wife, and 2 Van Goyens. Two little Saxon princes, supposed to be Ernst and Albert; a sereen of A Durer’s school, and some good small specitnens of ancient Florentine paint- ing; a portrait of Agnes von Mansfeld; Pope Pius VII., by Camuccini, and Charles IX. firing on the Huguenots, by the Belgian Wappers. The cabinet of engravings is large and excellent. In the Kunstkammer may be seen the swords of Charle- magne and Sobieski; the prayer-book of James I. and Anne of Denmark, bound by Cellini ; a ring of Mary Stuart ; Louis XIV.’s head on an amethyst ; fine gold-mounted nautili, and some capital figures executed in wood. Among the gems is a Medusa’s head in sardonyx, &c. 2d, a Library of 150,000 vols , including the collec- tion of 2000 MSS. made in the East by Seetzen, many of them very valu- able. 3d, a Museum of Natural His- tory, interesting: the specimens of u 3438 route 86.—gotha. erfurt. Sect. VII. cheirotherium, mammoth, and amber are fine. 4th, Coins and Medals, very extensive and complete; one of the finest collections of the kind in Europe. 5 th, a Japanese and Chinese Museum, contains many curiosities seldom seen in Europe; such as rare Chinese and Japanese books, articles of furniture, weapons, &c. A tariff of the fees to be paid for seeing the different collections in the Schloss is hung up at the inns, and should be consulted before visiting it. Notice should also be sent from the inn to the several keepers, to secure their attendance. The Almanack de Gotha is the title of a pocket-book printed here, which gives the names, ages, and pedigrees of all the reigning princes of Europe and their families. Berghaus’s maps and charts, pub- lished by Perthes, are very excel- lent. A porcelain manufactory, formerly in some estimation, is carried on here. The Gardens and Terraces belonging to the palace, and the Boulevards round the town, are 'agreeable promenades. There are many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood, but its beauties are perhaps somewhat exaggerated by the natives. A visit to Beinhardsbrunn (9 m.), a ducal country seat, in the form of a Gothic chateau, erected on the site of an ancient Benedictine ab- bey, destroyed in the Peasants’ War, 1525, is particularly recommended to strangers who can spare 5 or 6 hours to such a detour. Several curious old monuments of Saxon princes are placed in the Chapel. The country about it resembles a beautiful park. The In- selsberg, 2^ hours’ walk from this, com- mands from its top a finer view than any other mountain.of the Thuringian range. Schnepfenthal, the celebrated institution for education (Erziehung’s Anstalt) of Mr. Salzmann, is on the road. At Siebleben, about a quarter of a mile out of the town, on the way to Erfurt, Grimm, author of the “ Cor- respondence,” is buried. On the sum- mit of a hill to the right is seen the observatory of Seeburg, formerly the resi- dence of Baron Zach, the astronomer. At Dietendorf, a few miles off, there is a Moravian colony. The Hamster rat increases at times to such an enormous extent in the Thu- ringer Wald as to become a plague. In 1817-18, 200,000 were taken in the neighbourhood of Gotha. On the right of the road to Erfurt may be discovered the three castles called the Drei Gleichen. They are of great antiquity, and belonged to differ- ent owners, but were all struck with lightning in 1250. Miihlberg is a total ruin, except its donjon tower. Gleichen is in a better state of preservation, the roof remaining in part: the Wachsburg is still entire and inhabited. They are situated in the most beautiful part of Thuringia. About half-way between Gotha and Erfurt we cross the boundary of Prus- sia. At a little distance from the walls of Erfurt, the strong citadel of Cyriaks- berg is passed on the right. 3 Erfurt Stat.—Inns : Zum Kaiser; Weisses Ross. This town was at One time capital of Thuringia ; it now be- longs to Prussia, and is a fortress of second class, important from its situa- tion on the great high road of central Europe. The fort Petersburg within the walls, and the citadel of Cyriaks- berg without, contribute to its strength. It is a dull and inanimate town, ex- hibiting marks of decay, and its popu- lation has shrunk to 28,000; not more than half of what it once possessed. It has a garrison of 4000 men. The Horn (Cathedral), well situated, and originally a fine Gothic structure, has been seriously injured by war; but the king of Prussia has expended con- siderable sums in repairing it. The choir dates from 1353, the nave from 1472. The 3 stately towers are of the 12th century. It possesses a famous bell, called Gloriosa, weighing 275 cwt. The N. portal resembles the W. porch of Ratisbon, and is much admired. The altars on the 1. as you enter are very elegant. Notice should be taken of a bronze bas-relief of the Corona- tion of the Virgin, by Peter Vischer of Nuremberg, a highly finished work. Within the choir, which is very fine, isSaxony, route 86.—frankfurt to Leipzig, weimar. 439 a very old bronze candelabrum, repre- senting a penitent holding tapers, with an inscription not satisfactorily ex- plained. The stalls are partly ancient. There is a very good Holy Family, by L. Cranach, and a still older painting, perhaps by Van Eyck, on the door of a reliquiary in the wall. The cloister is good, but ruinous. In the Barfusser Kirche is a carved altar-piece of the Coronation of the Virgin, with statues of Apostles. The interior of the Pre- diger Kirche (1228) is very fine. In the Church of St. Severus, over an altar, is a fine high relief of the archangel Michael, of excellent workmanship, and a richly decorated font, date 1467. There is one object of particular in- terest here: it is Luther's Cell in the Augustine convent. The building is now converted into an Orphan House ( Waisenhaus), hut his apartment is pre- served as nearly as possible in its origi- nal condition, and contains his portrait, Bible, and other relics. He entered the convent as a monk, July 17. 1505, in consequence of a vow made 14 days before, on the death of a friend who was struck by lightning at his side. Here he spent several years of his life : at the altar in the chapel he read his first mass, and here, perhaps in this very cell, he first studied the Bible, of which he never saw a copy until he was 20 years’ old, when he picked one up, by accident, in a corner of the library. Schropp’s models of Gothic build- ings, &c., are worth seeing. The University of Erfurt was sup- pressed in 1816, and of the numerous convents which existed here till very recently one only remains, the Ursuline Nunnery. It is worth visiting, as an interesting specimen of a monastic establishment. The sisters employ themselves in teaching a school. From the 14th to the 16th century, Erfurt was a staple place of the trade of a great part of Europe. The great commercial highway between the Baltic and the Hanse Towns on the one hand, and Italy and Venice on the other, lay thVough Augsburg, Nurem- berg, Erfurt, and Brunswick, to Liibec and Danzig. A congress of sovereigns was assem- bled at Erfurt, 1807, by Napoleon. Shortly after leaving Erfurt the rail- road quits the Prussian dominions, and enters Saxe Weimar. 3 Weimar Stat.— Inns: Erbprinz, improved; Elephant, not good; Russis- cher Hof, best. Weimar situated on the Ilm, is the residence of the Grand Duke of Saxe Weimar, and capital of his dominions; it hais 13,000 inhab. To a stranger it will probably appear a dull and provincial looking town. It has no trade to give it activity; nor can the presence of a court supply this want. It has also lost its claim to its former appellation of The Athens of the North since the deaths of Schiller, Gothe, Wieland, Herder, and other men of genius and learning, who, though not natives of the duchy, resided here by invitation of the former Grand Duke, and conferred a lustre on his court and capital. There are few sights at Weimar to detain a traveller. The chief buildings are the Stadthirche (town church). The altar-piece of the Crucifixion, by Lucas Cranach, contains portraits of the artist himself near the cross, and of his friends Luther and Melancthon. 44 members of the Ducal Family of Saxe Weimar are interred here. The most illustrious among them is the Grand Duke Bernard, the brave gene- ral of the Thirty Years’ War, the ally of Gustavus Adolphus, and second to him only among all the Protestant leaders. His grave has no other dis- tinction than a simple brass plate. A tablet in the pavement bearing the name of Herder, marks the spot where that eminent writer is buried. In the Cemetery of the Schloss Kirche, or church of St. James, is the tomb of Lucas Cranach (d. 1553). The mason who carved his epitaph has written pictor celerrimus, instead of celeberrimus; it can hardly be said by mistake, because both epithets are equally deserved, from the immber as well as merits of the works he has left behind. In the same place are the graves of Musaeus the poet (d. 1787), and of Bodaeus.440 ROUTE 86.—FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. WEIMAR. Sect. VII. The Palace is a handsome building, tastefully furnished, but not otherwise remarkable. A suit of apartments has been decorated by modern artists, Neher, Preller, &c., with frescoes, illus- trating the works of Schiller, Gothe, and Wieland. Duke Bernard’s armour is kept in one of the rooms; and beside it, in a box, one of his fingers, which was cut off in an encounter with an enemy, and afterwards preserved and carried about by its owner. Near the palace is the Public Library. Within it are several portraits of emi- nent persons by L. Cranach and other artists; colossal busts of Schiller, by Dannecker, and of Gothe, by David; busts of Herder and Wieland. There are also a few relics of great men,— such as the black gown worn by Luther when a monk; Gustavus Adolphus’s leather belt, pierced by the bullet which caused his death at Liitzen. The house of Gothe, in which he died (1832), is in the Frauenplatz. The interesting relics of him, and the col- lections which he left behind, are shown to the public, having been purchased by the German Diet, and made na- tional. The furniture is of a very homely description; in his study are a common deal table, at which he wrote, which belonged to Schiller, his desk, and stool. He never had an arm-chair until he was 80. His drawing-room is decorated with casts from the antique; with models and drawings- by the old masters. The house of Schiller is also pointed out in the Esplanade. The Theatre was once under Gothe’s and Schiller’s management. The per- formances and music are still tolerable. The audience has the character of a large family party. Females come and go Unattended; and ladies need appear in no finer costume than a bonnet and morning dress. The play is generally over by nine. In the New Churchyard, beyond the Frauenthor, beneath a small chapel, is the Grand Ducal burial-vault. Gothe and Schiller are here interred. The late Duke, Charles Augustus, their patron and friend, intended that their remains should have been deposited on each side of him, but it appeared that courtly etiquette would not permit this proximity, and they have therefore been placed in one corner, at a respectful distance. Hummel the composer is also buried here. The apparatus assorted to, to prevent premature inter- ment, is curious (§ 41.), and should be seen. The grounds belonging to the Palace are laid out in a Park and Gardens, extending along the pleasant banks of the Ilm. They are much esteemed by the inhabitants as a promenade. Within them is situated the summer residence of Gothe. The park communicates, by an avenue, with the summer villa called Belvedere (2 m.), commanding a fine view, and having a hothouse, con- servatory, and fine garden attached to it. Another chateau of the Grand Duke is prettily situated at Tieffurth. It is worth a visit. It contains an immense quantity of rococo of all de- scriptions. The kitchen is lined with old Dutch tiles, and the dressers covered with all sorts of game, fruit, fish, &c., in porcelain, delf, and papier mache-. Wieland’s grave is at Osmanstadt, 5 m.- on the way to Jena from Weimar, in the midst of his garden. Eilwagen daily to Jena, Gera, and Altenburg. About 12 m. E. of Wei- mar is Jena, remarkable for its Univer- sity. (See Rte. 94 a.) There is a direct road from Weimar by Jena and Altenburg to Dresden, passing Freiburg, or to Carlsbad. (Rtes. 91 and 90.) Apolda Stat- The field of the battle of Auerstiidt, or Jena, so disastrous to Prussia, 14 Oct. 1806, lies near Hassenhausen, S. of the railroad, between the Apolda Stat. and Naumburg. A small pillar has been erected by the King of Prussia in a field to the S. of the road, between Eckhardsberge and Naumburg, to mark the spot where the Duke of Brunswick was mortally wounded. Sabza Stat. Some way beyond this the Duchy of Saxe Weimar terminates, and Prussia is entered. About 3 m. from Naumburg, the road crosses the narrow defile of theSaxony, route 86.—frankfurt to Leipzig, naumburg. 441 Saale. In it are situated the salt-works, baths, and mineral springs of Kosen, the approach to which is singular and picturesque ; on the right, high above the Saale, is the Castle Saaleck. The baths are supplied from the brine, or mother liquor, left in the pans when nearly all the salt has been extracted. A little to the S. of the railroad lies the curious village Schulpforta, whose Church is a noble Gothic building (the choir, 1251-68), and in whose School, 300 years old, Klopstock and Lessing were educated. 2^ Naumburg Stat. — Inns; Blaue Hecht, in the town; Preussischer Hof, good, in the suburbs. Naumburg is an industrious town, of 12,650 inhab., beautifully situated in the valley of the Saale, in the midst of an amphitheatre of hills covered with vines and dotted with country-houses. The Cathedral is a remarkable Gothic edifice, with double choir at the E. and W. ends. The nave, transepts, crypt, and part of towers are Romanesque. The W. choir is pointed in the purest style; the statues of the founders against the pillars are very fine works of the 13th century. The W. roodloft is also of the best period of the pointed Gothic. The crucifix is placed underneath, in the doorway; the front is ornamented with bas-reliefs. The E. roodloft is Romanesque, with round arches, a rare example of the style. In the church of St. Wenzel is a pic- ture of Christ blessing the children, by Cranach. Naumburg was a place of great importance during the Thirty Years’ War, and in the campaigns of 1806 and 1813. Here were the Prussian maga- zines. Napoleon having turned the flank of the Prussian army seized the town, and this proved one of the main causes of the disastrous defeat at Jena. This town was again occupied by the French, previously to the battle of Liitzen, 1 May, 1813, and its posses- sion was long and fiercely contested between the French and Russians. After the rout of Leipzig, the allies having occupied Naumburg, Napoleon was obliged to turn aside towards Freiberg, out of the main road, the defiles near Naumburg being occupied with cannon. Naumburg and Weissenfels are among the most northern points in Europe where vineyards are planted ; but the greater part of the wine pro- duced from them so nearly resembles vinegar, that it is chiefly profitable when sold as such, or when distilled to make brandy. The castles of Schonberg and Go- seck are seen 6n the left, before reaching 25- Weissenfels Stat. (Inns: Drei Schwane, good; zum Schutzen, good ; once a convent. Wallenstein retired hither after the battle of Liitzen), is a town of 6000 inhab., on the Saale. The Castle on the height, to the S.W. of the town, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Weissenfels, is now a barrack. The dead body of Gustavus Adol- phus was brought hither after the battle of Liitzen, and embalmed in a room of the Town-house ( Amtshaus), in the presence of Bernard of Saxe Weimar. It is recorded that his heart weighed 1 lb. 2 oz.; that the body bore the marks of 8 wounds, i. e. 5 gun- shots, 2 cuts, 1 stab. A part of the wall, which was stained with his blood, is still preserved from external contact. His widowed queen repaired hither to receive the body. The heart was in- stantly conveyed to Stockholm ; but the bowels are interred in the Kloster Kirche, in Weissenfels. About 5 m. N. W. of Weissenfels is Rossbach, the scene of one of Frede- rick the Great’s most memorable and unexpected victories, which he gained with an army of only 22,000 Prus- sians over 60,000 French and Aus- trians under Soubise, Nov. 5. 1757. The King directed his mauceuvres, previously unrivalled in military tac- tics, from' the castle of Rossbach. From the ridge on which it stands he despatched Sedlitz, at the head of his cavalry, ta sweep down the French in successive charges, so as to drive them from the field in less than half an hour. The enemy, previously certain of vic- tory, had directed their chief efforts to u 5442 ROUTE 86.—FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. LUTZEN. Sect. VII. prevent the escape of Frederick, and had weakened their line by so doing, which caused their defeat. Merseberg Stat. (Inns : Sonne ; Arm; Hof,), a town of great archi- tectural interest, with a chateau and a fine Gothic Cathedral on a rock over- looking the river, the choir built in 1200, the nave 1500; having a rich portal and containing the tomb of the rival Emperor Rudolph of Swabia, 1080, killed in combat with Henry IV. 2 Halle Stat. Railroad thence to Leipzig. (See Rte. 63.) The direct post road to Leipzig from Weissenfels, avoiding the circuit by Halle, passes through Liitzen. In the defile of Rippacli, 3 miles from Liitzen, Marshal Bessieres was killed in a skirmish the day before the battle of 2d May, 1813. 2 Liitzen. Inns not good. A small village, whose name would never have been heard of, but for the great battles fought in its vicinity. About a mile out of the town, by the side of the high road to Leipzig, a rude unsquared block of granite, one of the most southern of those mysterious boulders which have been transported from the mountains of Scandinavia, is set up, shaded bv a few poplars, and further distinguished by a Gothic canopy of cast iron, raised over it 1838. This is called the stone of the Swede ( Schwedenstein), and marks the spot where Gustavus Adolphus -fell, in the midst of the battle of Liitzen, 1631. This was one of the most fiercely con- tested engagements recorded in history. In the course of it, Piccolomini had seven horses killed under him, and Pappenheim was mortally wounded, and died the next day at Leipzig, while their colleague, the Imperial Generalissimo Wallenstein rode un- hurt through a shower of balls. The Swedish cavalry fought long and bravely for the possession of the corse of their sovereign, and at last bore it off triumphantly to the church of the neighbouring village of Meuchen. Liitzen is also memorable for a more recent battle, fought on the 2d of May, 1813, between Napoleon and the al- lies. The former maintained pos- session of the field, but gained no other material advantage, after a bloody engagement. The Prussian General Scharnhorst died of a wound received on this occasion ; Bliicher was also severely wounded. The Prussians have named this battle after the village of Gross Gorchen, a little to the S. of Liitzen, and near which and Kaia the field of battle lies. This was the first occasion in which they measured their strength successfully with the French, after the fatzfl battle of Jena. The campaign of 1813 was fought over a great portion of the same ground as that of 1806 ; the same posts were contested and defended, but with very different results. Napoleon, who was successful in the first instance, suf- fered, in the neighbourhood of Leip- zig, the most decisive defeat. On the 2d occasion, the operations of that memorable battle of the 17th, 18th, and 19th of October, 1813, extended to a distance of nearly 10 m., on all sides of Leipzig. The Prussian territory terminates 3 m. beyond Liitzen. Marktrannstadt is the first town in Saxony. In the castle of Alt Rannstadt, Charles XII. fixed his head quarters after the con- quest of Saxony by his army and the dethronement of Augustus. Hence he called on the cabinets of Europe to acknowledge Stanislaus Leczinsky, the monarch whom he had placed on the throne. The Duke of Marlborough here visited the youthful monarch on a secret mission, and complimented him by expressing a wish to serve a cam- paign under so great a general. Within the suburbs of Leipzig the road crosses the bridge over the river Elster, "which was blown up, towards the end of the battle of October 19. soon after Napoleon had crossed it, and while a large portion of his re- treating army was still on the opposite side. This mistake caused the capture of 25,000 French soldiers, and the death of many hundreds, who, with waggons, cannon, and horses, were precipitated into the Elster by the rush l and pressure which ensued. The mostSaxony. ROUTE 86.—LEIPZIG. 443 lamented and eminent of those who thus perished was Poniatowski. His monument, near the spot where his body was found, stands in Gerhard’s garden,' on the right, before entering the town. (See p. 445.) 2^ Leipzig.—Inns: H. de Baviere, very good indeed; H. de Russie; Blumenberg, well situated; H. de Prusse, Napoleon’s quarters 1813; H. de Saxe; Stadt Rom, near the Rail- way Terminus ; Rheinischer Hof; the two last moderate, 2d class inns. During the fair the charge for a room is double the ordinary price, or a dol- lar, instead of 12 g. grosch. Aecker- lein’s Restauration, in the Market- place, is very good. Fetsche’s Coffee- house is prettily situated. Carriages are sent from the different inns to con- vey travellers to and from the railways —charge 5 Sgr. Leipzig is built on the small rivers Elster and Pleisse, and has 50,000 inhab. and 2000 houses; it is a place of considerable historical celebrity, and of greater commercial importance; yet it is likely that it will appear #dull to the traveller in search of amuse- ment, unless he happens to visit it during the fair (when it is seen to great advantage), as it has neither very fine buildings nor remarkable collections to arrest the attention. The town, formerly confined within walls, has now removed its gates, and thrown out fine suburbs beyond—proof of in- creasing prosperity. Three Fairs are held here annually ; —at Easter j( Oster Messe, beginning on the 2d Sunday after Easter), which is the most important. At Michael- mas (beginning 1st Sunday after Mi- chaelmas day), and the Neu Jahr Messe (beginning on New Year’s day), the least important. They last three weeks, and while they continue, Leip- zig is the mart and exchange of central Europe, and is visited by merchants and foreigners from the most distant, parts of the globe, sometimes to the number of its actual population. The money transactions at one time amount- ed to 80 millions of dollars annually, though of late they have fallen short of this sum. The streets and‘squares are then occupied by temporary booths, in addition to sthe ordinary shops, in which goods of all kinds are exposed for sale. Every hotel and lodging- house is filled to overflowing, the streets are thronged with strange cos- tumes and faces; Jews from Poland, Tyrolese, Americans, and even Per- sians from Teflis, Armenians, Turks, and Greeks, are mingled together as in a masquerade, and most of the countries of Europe send representa- tives hither with their produce. 300 or 400 guests sit down daily to the tables-d’hote of some of the principal hotels; gardens and coffee-houses are thronged. The sale of books forms one of the most important branches of commerce here; it alone is said to amount to 10 millions of francs yearly. In fact the whole book-trade of Germany is centred on the spot, and every book- seller in Germany and the adjoining countries has an agent here. 600 booksellers sometimes assemble at the Easter-fair, to settle their annual ac- counts and purchases, and there are more than 100 residents. They have an Exchange of their own, called Deutsche Buchhiindler Borse, where they meet and transact business. Leipzig is likewise celebrated for its University, the oldest in Germany after that of Prague, having been founded in 1409 by German seceders from the Bo- hemian University. Several buildings near the Grimma gate are appropriated to its use, the chief of them being the Augusteum, finished 1836, from Schin- kel’s design, and containing the Library of 100,000 vols., including a beautifully illuminated Hebrew MS., 12th cent., a collection of autographs (Letter of Sir T. More to Erasmus), early woodcuts and black books, the Paulinum, wherein the museums of natural history and anatomy are deposited, and the Fiirsten Collegium. It numbers about 60 pro- fessors, 70 private teachers, and 900 or 1000 students. “ This is one of the few scholastic establishments on the Continent which has retained its own landed estates, most of the others having444 ROUTE 86.—LEIPZIG. Sect. vn. been stripped within the last 50 years, and being now supported by annual giants. In other respects, also, it re- sembles our English universities; ‘com- mons’ being kept for 300 students, who demand it on the plea of poverty, with a small additional subscription of 2 gros. a week 'for pepper, vinegar, and salt ’ from those who participate.”—L. M.r. “ The Town Library, in a very long and striking room, besides European works has a remarkable collection of Oriental MSS. ; many Turkish books obtained by the Germans in their vic- tories over the Turks in Hungary, such as pay lists ; officers’ commissions, dating from 1683, when Sobieski re- scued Vienna; a portion of an almost unequalled Koran which belonged to a mosque at Snltanieh, and another brought from a mosque at Buda, when that city was Mahommedan.”—L. M.r. St. Nicholas is the finest church in the town, but its architecture is of question- able taste, rather overloaded with orna- ment. The pictures of CEser are not very interesting. The Heilige Dreifaltigkeits Kirche, built from designs of HeidelofF, is a very fair specimen of modern Gothic, and is worth entering. The Great Market-place is picturesque, from the quaint architecture of its build- ings, particularly of the Town House (Ratlihaus) built 1556, on one side of it. In this square the allied sovereigns met after the battle of Leipzig. The house called Konigshaus, because for- merly inhabited by the Electors and Kings of Saxony on their visits to the town, was occupied by Napoleon during the battle; here he had his last inter- view with the king, who was afterwards detained prisoner in it by the allies as an adherent of Napoleon, and here Mar- shal Schwartzenburg, the General of the allied army, died in 1820. Next door to it is Auerbach's Cellar, a vault under an old house near the market-place, where beer and wine are sold, and where, ac- cording to tradition, the famous ma- gician, Dr. Faustus, performed his feats, which are represented in 2 rude daubs on the walls. Giithe has laid in this cellar a scene of his tragedy of Faust, in which the drunken students are sup- plied by Mephistophiles with various kinds of wine, out of holes bored with a gimlet in the table. It is said that the poet, as well as his hero, not un. frequently caroused here while a stu- dent. The New Post Office in the Dresdener Strasse, Grimmiiische Vorstadt, is the finest building here, after the Augus- teum. Beyond it is the Ch. Yard of St. John, containing the graves of some remarkable men, Gellert, Spohn, Rosen- m'uller, Politz, &c. The Castle of Pleissenburg, the an- cient citadel, at the S. E. angle of the city walls, withstood the attacks of Tilly during the Thirty Years’ War, several weeks after the town had surrendered. The lower part of it is now turned into a wool warehouse, and the tower into an Observatory, from the top of which a good view may be obtained of the town. The surrounding country is flat, but it is interesting as the scene of the memorable battle of Leipzig, distin- guished by the Germans as the Volker- schlacht, “ Battle of the Nations.” It was one of the longest, sternest, and bloodiest actions of the war, and one of the largest battles recorded in history, from the number of troops engaged, amounting to 136,000 on the side of Buonaparte, and 230,000 on that of the allies, with 1600 cannon, and the space of ground over which the operations extended ; and it decided the fate of Europe. After the conflict had raged for 3 days in the vicinity of Leipzig, on the 19 th October, 1813, it reached up to the very walls, and cannon-balls fell in showers in the streets. On the morning of that day, Napoleon and part of his army passed through the town, quitting it on one side almost at the moment when the allies entered it on the other. Indeed it is doubtful whether the emperor himself would have escaped, but for the bravery of Macdonald and Poniatowski in cover- ing his retreat, and for the premature blowing up of the bridge beyond the Ranstadt gate, at the moment when many of the French troops were in theSaxony. route 87.—Leipzig to Dresden. 445 act of passing, and thousands remained behind. This event, whether designed or accidental, caused the death of Poni- atowski, and many hundreds of less note ; the spot where he was drowned may be discerned from the tower. It is situated, in M. Gerhard's (formerly Reichenbach’s) Garden, just beyond the walls, and is marked by a small and humble stone monument close to the margin of the Elster, a mere ditch in size, but at the time of the battle so choked up with bodies of men and horses, dead, dying, or struggling to cross, that the sorry steed on which he was mounted, his own having been killed under him, was unable to swim among them. The brave Pole, already twice wounded, and borne down in the throng, sunk in attempting the passage. Mac- donald, better mounted, passed it in safety nearly at the same spot. In another part of the garden is a stone tomb, with inscriptions in Polish and -Latin, erected by the soldiers of his regiment to their commander, on the spot where his body was found 4 days after. The road to Grimma (towards the S. Er) leads over the most interest- ing portion of the field of battle. The keeper of the Observatory will give every information respecting the battle, and point out all the interesting spots. An account, with plans of the battle, has been published (in German) by K. Heubel. There is nothing more agreeable here than the Gardens round the city walls, and between them and the suburbs. The entire circuit of these walks may be made in J of an hour, and it will be found they are not surpassed in any town of Germany, especially in the part near the Grimma Gate. Rosenthal, a park a little beyond the walls, is much frequented in summer. Leibnitz the philosopher, who was a native of Leipzig, used to study and meditate in it. Baron Speek von Stern- berg’s cabinet of paintings at Liitzschena, 5 m. from Leipzig, includes some first- rate works. Leipzig is famed for 2 delicacies of the table, larks, and apples ; the last are named from the neighbouring village of Borsdorf. A British Consul General resides here. Railroads from Leipzig—to Magde- burg ; to Berlin ; to Dresden ; and to Altenburg and Reichenbach. Schnellposts daily to Chemnitz; to Merseburg ; 3 times a week to Frei- berg and Annaberg. ROUTE 87. LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. --RAILROAD. 151 Germ. m. = 72 Eng. m. Trains go twice a day, in 3^ to 4 hours. Fares, 3, 2, and 1^ dollars. Terminus in Leipzig, between the Halle and Grimma gates. There is a police office near it, whither passports are taken, to be returned at Dresden. From Leipzig the railway runs pa- rallel with the high road, and at a short distance from it as far as Oschatz, crossing it twice. Both roads, on quitting Leipzig, tra- verse a portion of the battle-field of 1813 (p.444.). During an engagement between Ney and the Crown Prince of Sweden, near the village of Paunsdorf on the post-road, the Saxons went over to the side of the allies. Althen Stat. Near this (1.) is Bors- dorf, famous for apples The river Mulda is crossed by a bridge of 19 arches, shortly before reaching 31 Wurzen Stat., a town of 3000 in- hab., no good inn. 2J Luppa Dahlen Stat. The vale of Dollnitz is traversed on a lofty viaduct on approaching 1 ^ Oschatz Stat. (Inn, Lowe), a town of 5000 inhab., surrounded by ancient fortifications. In the neighbouring cha- teau of Hubertsburg the treaty of peace, which terminated the Seven Years’ War, was concluded, 1763, between Frederick the Great and the Empress Maria Theresa. The building is now con- verted into a pottery. 2 Riesa Stat. Here is the junction of the direct line from Berlin to Dres- den. This little town lies on the left bank of the Elbe. On quitting the sta- tion we leave the post road on the rt.,446 ROUTE 87.—LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. MEISSEN. Sect. VII. and traverse the Elbe on a bridge of nine arches, and then follow the rt. bank of the river for a short distance, crossing the long viaduct of Roderau, which rests on 64 piers, to 2^ Priestewitz Stat. Grossenhavn, on the post road from Berlin to Dres- den, is about 7 m. N. of Priestewitz. Schnellposts run hence to Berlin. ( Rte. 62 a.) About 10 m. N. W. of Riesa, on the Elbe, is Muhlberg, where the battle was fought, in 1547, when the Pro- testants under John Frederick, Elector of Saxony, were defeated by Charles V., and their leader made prisoner, and compelled to throw himself at his con- queror’s feet. A Tunnel, the only one on the line, about 500 yards long, is traversed at Oberau. Near this a glimpse is ob- tained, on the right, of the town of Meissen, on the opposite side of the Elbe, 4 m. off. Coaches (postwiigen) go thither from Oberau 4 times a day. Meissen. — Inns : Sonne, the best, but dirty and dear; — Hirsch. A town of 5000 inhab., prettily situated on the S. bank of the Elbe, which is here crossed by a bridge. The old Castle on the precipitous rock above the town, formerly the residence of the Saxon princes, is now converted into a porcelain manufactory, in which the famous Dresden China is made. The view from it on all sides is charming, and its Gothic architec- ture presents much that is worthy of admiration, especially in the two ele- gant corkscrew staircases, the vaulting of the ceilings, the cross room, and a polygonal turret room ; the windows are of a curious late Gothic, inclining in shape to those of Batalha and St. Mary’s Redcliffe. China ware or porce- lain was originally brought from the country after which it is named, and was first made in Europe at this place, in 1710, by one Botticher, an alchemist, who, after wasting a great deal of the gold of his patron (Augustus I., King of Poland and Elector of Saxony) in his search for the philosopher’s stone, stumbled, by accident, upon a more sure method of producing the precious metals by the discovery of an art which has served to enrich his countrymen. This manufactory, so celebrated in the time of Augustus II., received its death-blow in the Seven Years’ War, being then plundered, and its workmen and models, along with the archives, carried away by Frederick the Great. It continued to enjoy royal patronage at a heavy expense to the private purse, of the Saxon Sovereign, but the King has lately ceded it to the Government. It is now carried on for profit, and cheapness being the object, it now makes a revenue, but the articles made are very inferior to those of former times. The managers of the establish- ment are very civil in showing it to strangers, who will find here a very large assortment of articles for sale or inspection. Contiguous to the manufactory is the Dom, a beautiful Gothic building, begun in the ISth and continued to the 15th cent., with an exquisite spire' of open work. The interior is re- markable for the purity of its style. The receptacle for the sacrament near the altar is very elaborately carved in stone. The painted glass in its win- dows, the Descent from the Cross by L. Cranach, in which are introduced the portraits of Luther, his wife, and his friend the Elector, a painting by A. Durer, and the roodloft, are worth notice. Attached to the W. end is the Prince’s vault (Fiirstengruft), where many early princes of the Saxon house are interred, including the 2 princes Ernest and Albert, the founders of the Royal and Ducal lines of Saxony. Here are some fine brasses, like those of Breslau and Freiberg, a bronze monument of Friedrich der Streitbar is the most remarkable. A Tunnel — a gigantic work, 24 m. long, has been in progress many years from the level of the Elbe at Meissen to Freiberg, in order to drain the, sil- ver mines around that town, which have been for ages choked with water. From Meissen to Dresden the Elbe runs at the foot of a range of sloping hills, covered with vineyards, produc- ing, under skilful management, a toler-References 1 Post Office............D e 2 FraxtenJcircfie_______fj d 3 Catholic Church_____ ..Dd ATerrace ofPrilhl.......„ Ed \Palace of Do-,_____ Ed b Hoyal Palace,----------T)d 6 Picture Gallery------Ed 7 Zwinger Lfd 8 JccpanesePalace-- ... D b 9 Theatre................ Dd 10 Lcmdhaus............. EJV H Polytechnic Inst------E e ' 12 Synacfocpre___________ Ed 13 Spphienkirche:......... De ^AAeJfcuzterdie...,..........E e 15 Zeiighaus (Arsenal )-----P d Talai Plat O StTdr Gehege Togelwies e 'rs\/'x Plat* i Alt Markt S cade Published by John*Murray Albemarle Street dcntdan 1849. J.&CWaJOcer Sculp.Saxony. route 87.—Dresden, bridge. 447 able wine, and dotted over with elegant. villas and country houses, called Wein- bergs. 2 Niederau Station. The high road from Meissen to Dresden is crossed at Coswig, beyond which the railway again reaches the right bank of the Elbe, and continues near it all the way to 2 Dresden. Terminus in the Neu- stadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe. Fiacres and omnibuses are ready to convey passengers to all parts of the town, for 10 and 5 neu groschen. Dresden. — Inns : H. de Saxe, in the NeU Markt, first rate. Table d’hote in summer at 1 and 4 o’clock, in winter at 3. Single bedrooms from 10 ngr. to 1 thaler. Families with their servants, may live en pension at this hotel during the winter on very moderate terms. The three principal floors are carpeted from October till the end of May. Stadt Rom, in the Neu Markt; — British Hotel, good, well furnished; — H. de France, Wils- druffer Gasse, very good ; — Stadt Berlin, very good; — H. die l’Europe ; — Stadt Wien, in the Neus'tadt over- looking the river and bridge, ^pod, but remote. ' (Population in 1847, 89,243.) , The capital of Saxony, residence of its sovereign, of the Albertine line, and seat of the government, is situated on the Elbe, which divides the old town from the new. Dresden was named by Herder ‘‘the German Florence;” and in its pleasing situation, in the number and excellence of its collections, and more especially in its richly stored Picture Gallery, it may deserve to be compared, at a respectful distance, with the Florence of Italy. Few European capitals contain a greater number of objects calculated to gratify the curio- sity of an intelligent traveller. It is the residence of many men of learning and talent, who contribute much to' render society agreeable. The opera is good, and music is much cultivated : the climate is generally mild and agree- able, food and lodgings are cheap. The German language is spoken with purity, so that the situation is eligible for those who wish to acquire proficiency in it. The town itself is more pleasing at a distance, than striking, when examined in detail; it has neither fine streets nor imposing public buildings, but its situ- ation is pretty, and its environs are de- lightful. The most healthy localities are the Neustadt and the S. streets of the old town, Waisenhaus Strasse, Halbe Gasse, sometimes called the English quarter. The Post and Diligence offices are included in one handsome building in the Wilsdruffer Platz. The office for Extra-post horses is in the Annen Gasse. Fiacres are stationed in all the public places; the charges vary according to the number of passengers, the number of horses, and the distance. For any distance within the town, for one person with one horse, the charge is 5 Neu gr., for 2 persons Neu gr. There are also Droschken (covered cabs) with one horse, of which there are now about 200 fares, for a drive (Fuhre), in the inner circle of the town 4 N. gr., in the outer circle or suburbs, 6 N. gr. Sedan chairs are used, and the fares are low, 5 Neu gr. within the town, and 10 Neu gr. from it into the Neu- stadt or suburbs/ The Bridge over the Elbe is regarded as the longest and finest structure of the kind, entirely of stone, in Germany. It commands an excellent view of the town and valley of the Elbe. It was originally built with money raised by the sale of dispensations from the pope, for eating butter and eggs during Lent. It is of a very solid construction, in order that it may resist the force of the stream (which often rises 16 feet in 24 hours, when the snow begins to melt), ;and the shocks of floating masses of ;ice in the spring ; during the months .'of January and February the river is usually frozen over. The fourth pier from the side of the Altstadt, was blown up by the French general Davoust, in 1813, to facilitate his retreat to Leip- zig, and the two adjoining arches fell; and in the winter of 1845-6, the pier between the 7th and 8th arches from the Altstadt side gave way, owing to448 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. PALACE. BRUHL TERRACE. Sect. VII. underscouring during the flood, caused by the melting of the ice, when the adjoining arches of course fell. N. B. Foot passengers in crossing the bridge always take the path on the right hand, “ a rule of the road,” which is enforced by the police, and prevents collision and confusion. The piers and four arches of another bridge are completed (July, 1849), lower do.wn the river, for the railway which will connect the Leipzig with the Prague line. This bridge will also have a carriage and foot way. It is to be completed by the end of 1850. The Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) is a very handsome edifice en- tirely of stone, even to the dome, which is of such solid construction that the shells and halls directed against it by Frederick the Great during the Seven Years’ War (in 1760) rebounded from its surface, without doing it any injury. A good view may be had from the out- side of the cupola, and an easy stair- case leads up to it. The Catholic or Court Church be- tween the bridge and the palace is a profusely decorated but tasteless build- ing, in the Italian style. It is connected with the palace by a bridge thrown over the street, and is attended by the royal family. They have professed the Ca- tholic faith, though their subjects are Lutherans, since the time of Augustus II. (1697), who, as the price of ob- taining the crown of Poland, abjured the religion of which his ancestors had been the earliest and most faithful sup- porters. The music in this church is celebrated all over Germany. It is under the superintendence of the direc- tor of the opera, who merely transfers his band from the orchestra to the organ loft. High mass is performed on Sundays and festivals, from 11-to 12, and no stranger should miss hearing it. During service, the male and female part of the congregation are arranged on opposite sides of the church. The organ, made by Silberman, is considered very good. The altar-piece is by Raphael Mengs, a native artist." No other church merits particular notice. . The Terrace of Bruhl, formed after the destruction of that minister’s Palace ■ and Gardens in the Seven Years’ War, approached by a grand flight of broad steps from the foot of the bridge, runs along the left bank of the Elbe, and commands a delightful view. It is a deservedly favourite promenade and lounge of the inhabitants, who resort much to the places of entertainment situated on it, that is to the Cafe Reale for ices in the afternoon, and to the Restaurateur at the Belvedere in the evening for supper, tea, beer, and music. In the Palace of Bruhl, contiguous to the terrace, named after the pro- fligate minister of Augustus II., is a collection of 50 landscapes by Bernardo Canaletto. Many of them are views of Dresden and its vicinity; but the greater part are inferior productions. The Royal Palace, opposite the bridge, is an ancient building, of very ungainly architecture externally. Within, it is decorated with the splen- dour usual in palaces. It possesses a great attraction for the lovers of modern art in the frescoes, by Bendeman, in the Thron Saal. A series of scenes painted on gold grounds, representing the Pro- gress of the Human Race, form a frieze round the room. At the lower end are figures of heroes and great men ; at the upper, some large compositions from German history. For brightness and clearness of colouring, pleasing sub- ject, .and graceful design, the paintings forming the frieze are superior to most of the modern German frescoes. A short account of the subjects (in Ger- man) printed on a single sheet may be obtained from the person who shows the room. The state-rooms are shown, when the court is absent, by an officer . called Bettmeister. The Green Vaults in the lower story form a separate and curious exhibition, de- scribed further on. The Collections at Dresden are open to the public from April to October, on certain days and at fixed hours; in almost all instances, however* only by means of tickets, a limited number of which are given out gratuitously for each day; thus, 115 are issued for theSaxony. route 87.—Dresden, green vaults. Cabinet of Natural History; 36 for the Armoury. The Green Vault is shown only by tickets, which cost 2 dollars, and admit 6 persons. The Library is open daily, and without tickets, all the year round. All the collections may be seen du - ring the months, the days, or hours, when they are not open to the public, by paying a fee of 2 or 3 dollars for a ticket (Einlass-karte), which usually admits 6 persons, and also secures the attendance of their directors; but an appointment must be made with them beforehand. The directors of the col- lections are always men of intelligence, possessing, and willing to impart every information respecting the objects of which they have charge, and will di- rect the stranger’s especial attention to the things most deserving minute ex- amination. The closing of the Picture Gallery and other collections in winter is a great drawback to Dresden, as a residence, since it operates practically to the exclusion of the stranger, unless he will pay 2 or 3 dollars. The services of a valet de place (who usually receives 1 dollar per diem) are particularly required at Dresden, to procure tickets for the open collections, and to make appointments during the close months, and for those collections which are shown only on payment of a fee. If a foreigner were to undertake this for. himself, he would sustain a great loss of time. The tickets are usually all engaged a long while be- forehand, so that a stranger pressed for time has little chance of obtaining them exactly at the moment when he wants them, except by the agency of a valet de place. By his aid, also, the solitary traveller is enabled to join par- ties about to visit the collections ; and, instead of paying the entire fee, which is onerous for one or two persons, may contribute only bis share, by which considerable expense is spared. Days and hours of admission to the Collections in Dresden, from May 1st to Oct. 31st. Daily.—Picture Gallery, 9—1, gra- tis, without tickets. Sunday, 12^—3. Library, on an hour’s warning, 9—I, 449 do. Green Vault, 8—12 and 2—6, fee of 2 dollars. Monday. — Historical Museum (Ar- moury) in the Zwinger, 8—12 and 2 —6, with tickets, of which only 36 are issued. Tuesday.— Collection of Engravings and Drawings, 8—12. Gems, 8—12. Wednesday. — Antique Sculpture, 8—12. Museum of Natural History, 8— 12 and 2—6. Collection of Por- celain, 2—6. Cabinet of Minerals, 9— 12 (tickets). Cabinet of Zoology, 3—6 (tickets). Thursday. — Historical Museum, 8—12 and 2—6 (tickets). Meng’s Plaster Casts, 8—12. Friday. — Canaletto’s Views in Briihl’s Palace, 9—1. Museum for Historical Antiquities (Great Garden), 3—6. Mathematical saloon and mo- dels, 8—12. Saturday. — Antique Sculpture, 9— 1. Tickets are given out at 7 a. m. N. B. The “ Dresdner Anzeiger ” newspaper gives a list of the sights open every day, with the modes of obtaining admission. The Green Vault (das Grune Gewolbe'), a range of vaulted apartments, on the ground floor of the Palace, are so called, probably, from the colour of the hangings with which the chambers were originally decorated. They are shown on week days from 8 to 12, and from 2 to 6. An appointment must be made previously with the inspector, who conducts parties not exceeding 6 in number, and explains every thing to them. He receives a fee of 2 dol- lars. The Saxon princes, besides being far more powerful and important in former times than at present, were also among the richest sovereigns of Europe; the Freiberg silver mines alone were an immense source of wealth, previous to the discovery of America. The nu- merous and valuable collections of va- rious kinds, still existing in the capital, are proofs both of their riches and their taste. One mode by which they showed their magnificence, and expended their money, was in the accumulation of all kinds of rare objects, such as jewels450 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. GREEN VAULTS. Sect. VII. and exquisite carvings, in the precious metals, and in other costly materials, which were deposited in a secret strong room under their palace, where it is be- lieved that vast treasures of money were also accumulated. This is the origin of the celebrated collection now known as the Green Vaults. It is probably the richest which any Euro- pean monarch at this time possesses; indeed, the treasures remind one rather of the gorgeous, dazzling magnificence of oriental despots, or the magic pro- ductions of Aladdin's lamp in the east- ern tale. The value of the whole must amount to several millions. The political economist would re- gret that so much capital should lie idle, while the man of taste may affect to despise what, at first sight, he might deem a collection of toys ; but in truth he will find, on a nearer examination, that a large portion of the objects are in the highest degree worthy of at- tention as works of art, while others are at least wonderful as the elaborate productions of patient toil and skill, and of arts which in the present day may be said to be almost extinct, or at least to have degenerated. The trea- sures are contained in 8 apartments, each exceeding the previous one in the splendour and richness of its contents ; the whole has been re-arranged within a few years. The objects are so nu- merous, that it is quite impossible to allude to more than a few of the most striking in each chamber. 1st room contains objects in bronze, as, a Crucifix, by John of Bologna, a masterpiece; — a little dog scratching itself, by Peter Vischer ;—a copy of the Farnese bull;—the Rape of Proser- pine. A statue of Charles II. of Eng- land on horseback, in the character of St. George, cut out of a piece of solid cast iron. 2nd, or Ivory Cabinet; a Crucifix attributed to Michael Angelo, and not unworthy of him;—a battle piece by Albert Durer (?) — a number of beau- tiful vases, some of large size, cut out of a single piece of ivory;—a cup, on which is carved the story of the Fool- ish Virgins;—the Fall of Lucifer and the Wicked Angels, a most wonderful group of 85 figures, carved in one piece of ivory, 16 inches high;—2 horses’ heads in relief, by Michael Angelo. There is an interesting work of the present day, a goblet of stag’s horn, cut in the manner of a cameo, with figures representing a hunt, by Schulz, an artist of Meiniugen. 3d contains Florentine mosaics; en- graved shells; ostrich eggs, carved and ornamented: No. 41. is an egg said to have been laid by an ostrich kept in the Menagerie of Moritzburg; objects in amber, particularly a cabinet, en- tirely of this precious material; — a chimney-piece of Dresden china, orna- mented with precious stones, all of them the produce of Saxony; paint- ings in Enamel, especially a Madonna and Ecce Homo, by Raphael Mengs when young; — portraits of Peter the Great and Augustus the Strong, by Dinglinger;—a fruit dish, with a battle piece, by Noel Landin of Limoges, a celebrated artist in enamels. 4th is filled with gold and silver plate which adorned the banquets of the Saxon palace. A part of this collection was carried to Frankfurt at the coronation of the Emperors by the Electors of Saxony, who possessed the hereditary office of Arch-Marshal at those cere- monies. 5th. Vessels formed of half-precious stones, such as agates, chalcedony, rock crystal, lapis lazuli, &c. ; — 2 goblets composed entirely of cut gems (some of them antiques), are valued at 6000 dollars each. Au antique onyx cameo, bearing the portrait of Augustus. The cups of Moss agate are particularly beautiful. Here may be seen the largest enamel known, a Magdalen, by Dinglinger.—• A set of vessels cut out of solid rock crystal, are valuable for their size and brightness; the modern manufacture of crystal glass, however, has attained such excellence, as nearly to equal them in appearance. 6th room contains a large assem- blage of cleverly cut figures in ivory and wood, also numerous caricature figures of men and animals formed ofSaxony. route 87.—Dresden, green vaults. 451 single pearls, of odd shapes and un- usual size, chiefly found in the Elster, a Saxon river. For instance, the body of a court dwarf of the king of Spain, is formed of a pearl as large as a hen’s egg. Besides these, there are a num- ber of other most costly jewels and trinkets, on which a vast deal of inge- nuity and wealth must have been ex* pended. Two old watches, called Nu- remberg eggs (there is a finer one in the Rustkammer) from their shape and the name of the place where they were first made, in 1500. Among the carvings in wood are two combats of knights, by that emi- nent sculptor, Colin of Mechlin, who executed the reliefs on Maximilian’s tomb at Innsbruck; others are attri- buted to A. Durer. The 7th room. The regalia used at the coronation of Augustus II. as king of Poland. The 8th and last apartment sur- passes all the others tenfold in the Va- lue and splendour of its contents. Among the wonders of this cabinet, are the works of Dinglinger, an artist who may be fairly termed the Saxon Benvenuto Cellini. He and two re- latives of inferior skill were almost entirely employed by the Electors of Saxony; and a close examination of the workmanship displayed in his per- formances will show that they are the productions of no mean artist. One of these pieces is called the Court of the Great Mogul, and represents the Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, surrounded by his guards and courtiers, in the most appropriate costumes ac- cording to the description of Taver- nier, to the number of 1.38 figures, all of pure gold enamelled. The variety of character, and the true expression of each of the figures, deserve the mi- nutest inspection. This elaborate trin- ket begun in 1701, employed Dinglin- ger 8 years, and cost 58,400 dollars. Another piece, by the same artist, pourtrays artizans of different trades, all remarkable for the delicacy and per- fection with which they are executed. There are many other specimens of Dinglinger’s skill ; he flourished be- tween 1702 and 1728, and was court jeweller at Dresden. Other things to be noted in this room are — an immense specimen of uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by Rudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony; a portion of a mass of solid native sil- ver from the Himmelsfiirst mine at Freiberg. It is recorded, that no less than 2176 cwt. of silver were ob- tained in the course of 50 years from that mine alone. The Saxon Regalia include — the Electoral sword borne by the Saxon princes at the Imperial Coronations ; the decorations belong- ing to a miner’s uniform, made for the Elector John George, 1676; a large collection of chains, collars, and orders; among which are the Garter, Golden Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c., worn by Saxon princes. The largest sardonyx known, 6j inches long, and 4^ broad; it is oval, and beautifully regular. Last of all comes a glass case filled with most precious suits of the most costly jewels; —the first division con- tains Sapphires, the largest of them, an uncut specimen, was a gift of Peter the Great; — the 2nd, Emeralds ; — 3rd, Rubies, the two largest spinels weigh 48 and 59 carats ;—4th, Pearls, one set of native Saxon pearls, from the Elster in Voightland, are of course .inferior to the oriental. Among 63 rings there are two which belonged to Martin Luther ; one a cornelian bearing a rose, and in its centre a cross ; the other his enamelled seal ring, bearing a death’s head, and the motto, “ Mori saepe cogita.” The 5th division is devoted to Dia- monds. The diamond decorations of the gala dress of the Elector consist of buttons, collar, sword hilt and scab- bard, all of diamonds; the 3 brilliants in the epaulette weigh nearly 50 carats each. But the most remarkable stone of all, which is considered unique, is a green brilliant, weighing 160 grains = 40 carats. 6th division, also fitted with diamonds, includes the Saxon order of the Rue Garland, and 7 orders of the Golden Fleece, &c. &c. &c.452 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. The Picture Gallery* stands in the New Market. Tt is open to the public gratis, every day, from 9 to 1 (except Sunday, when it is open from 12^ to 3), from April 15. to the end of October. Admissions at other hours are obtained upon payment of a fee of 3 dollars. This Gallery is the finest collec- tion of paintings to be found in Ger- many. It appears that something like the rudiments of a collection were made in the reign of Duke George, the friend of Lucas Cranach; but Augus- tus II. may be regarded as the founder of the Gallery. It was greatly in- creased, and received some of its bright- est ornaments in the reign of Augustus III., who purchased the collection of the Duke of Modena, and the famous Madonna di San Sislo of Raphael. “ While lingering among the great productions of a captivating art, it is a pleasant feeling that they have had the rare fortune to be treated with reve- rence by every hostile hand. Frederick the Great bombarded Dresden, bat- tered down its churches, laid its streets in ruins, but ordered his cannon and mortars to keep clear of the Picture Gallery. He entered as a conqueror, levied the taxes, administered the go- vernment, and, with an affectation of humility, asked permission of the cap-, tive eh’ctress to visit the Gallery as a stranger. Napoleon’s policy, too, led him to treat Saxony with much consi- deration, and was the guardian angel of her pictures. Not one of them made the journey to Paris.”—RusselFs Germany. It is much to be regretted that many of the pictures of this gallery, includ- ing the Raphael and the Correggios, have suffered greatly, first, from ne- glect, and, afterwards, from injudicious cleaning. A few of the choicest works are here set down, with the view of guiding the eye of the spectator in a collection so * See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting, Part I., Italian School, edited by Eastlake: and Part II., Germany and Netherlands. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. ENTRANCE. extensive, sparing him the fatigue of examining productions less worthy of attention, and at the same time reliev- ing him from the mortification of hav- ing passed over any of acknowledged merit. Exterior rooms, A to H, contain Flemish, Dutch, French, German, and Spanish paintings, and room B a few Italian. Rooms Aa to Ee of the in- terior gallery, and Ff of the exterior, contain Italian works only. Italian Schools. — No collection out of Italy can compete with this in the works of the Venetian masters, of Ra- phael and of Correggio. Giovanni Bellini—Christ, a whole- length figure, full of majesty. Titian — The Tribute Money, known as “ II Christo della Moneta,” a painting unique in its kind, uniting all the richness of colour which characterises the master, with a minuteness of finish equal to a miniature, and rewarding the closest examination; Titian’s name is written in the corner; — A reclining Venus, like that in the Fitzwilliam Museum, probably a copy; — Portrait of Pietro Aretin ; — A young woman called Titian’s mistress. - Palma Vecchio — The Virgin and infant Jesus with St. John, a work of the most fascinat- ing beauty. Paul Veronese—A Virgin and Child, before whom a pious family are paying adoration, accompanied by453 Saxony. route 87—Dresden, picture gallery. 2 Saints, while Religion, in a white garment, stands by ; a masterpiece of the artist;—Christ with his Disciples at Emmaus; — The Finding of Moses; — The Ceremony of the Marriage of the Adriatic by the Doge of Venice. Giorgione—The Meeting of Jacob and Rachel. Dosso Dossi — The Four Doctors of the Church, a grand work. Benvenuto Garofalo — Virgin kneeling before the infant Saviour, while an Angel appears on the opposite side. Raphael’s Madonna di San Sisto is the gem of the Dresden Gallery; a capital painting, scarcely surpassed by any work of Raphael’s existing in Italy, and equalled by none out of it. It is in his latest and best manner, and was executed only a few years before his death. The sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom the picture is named, is repre- sented on the one side gazing with pious and trembling awe upon the figure of the Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven in all the majesty with which the Roman Catholic religion has surrounded her, bearing in her arms the Divine child. “ The head of the Virgin is perhaps nearer the perfection of female beauty and elegance than any thing in paint- ing ; it is truly impressive and beau- tiful.”— Wilkie. Opposite to the Pope kneels St. Barbara; her youthful beauty and fervour contrast admirably with hisvaged and emaciated form. Below this group are two angelic children, their countenances beaming with inno- cence and intelligence, their eyes up- turned towards the central figures of the picture ; they are among the hap- piest efforts ot art. This picture was purchased from a convent at Piacenza for 17,000 ducats (about 8000/.). Cokheggio. — Excepting at Parma, so many and such excellent works of this artist are to be met with nowhere in Europe. The following 6 paintings are num- bered and arranged here according to the periods of the artist’s life at which they were executed, as it is peculiarly interesting to watch the change in style and the progress to perfection made by so great a master in his art:— 1. The Virgin and Child with St. Francis, painted, it is said, at the age of 18. 2. Portrait of a Man, supposed to be the physician of the artist. 3. The far-famed picture of the Virgin and infant Jesus in the Manger, known by the name of “ I,a Notte," the Night. “ Correggio has here converted the literal representation of a circumstance of sacred history into a divine piece of poetry, when he gave us that emanation of supernatural light streaming from the form of the celestial Child, and illuminating the ecstatic face of the Virgin mother, who bends over her infant undazzled ; while another female draws back, veiling her eyes with her hand, as if unable to endure the ra- diance. Far off through the gloom of night we see the morning just breaking along the eastern horizon—emblem of the ‘ day-spring from on high.’ ”—Mrs. Jamieson. “ The Notte of Correggio is what I expected the most from, and the condition of which has given me the greatest disappointment. Yet, how beautiful the arrangement 1 All the powers of the art are here united to make a perfect work. Here the sim- plicity of the drawing of the Virgin and Child is shown in constrast with the foreshortening of the group of Angels; the strongest unity of effect with the most perfect system of in- tricacy. The emitting the light from the child, thought a supernatural illu- sion, -is eminently successful; it looks neither forced nor improbable. What- ever the Notte may have been, the hand of the picture-cleaner is here manifest; and those who like bright day-light effect will have it here to their heart’s content. Correggio did not, like Rem- brandt, in these effects attempt to give the colour of lamplight; the phospho- rescent quality of light was more his aim, as in his ‘ Christ in the Garden.’ But here the light on the Virgin and Child is white, chalky, and thin; and the rest of the picture has somewhat the poverty of a copy. The group of shepherds indeed appear, in character and in the beauty of painting, infe- rior to the general run of Correggio’s figures; the man at the side is even coarse. Still, however, the matchless454 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. beauty of the Virgin and Child, the group of Angels over head, the day- break in the sky, and the whole ar- rangement of light and shadow, give it the right to be considered, in con- ception at least, the greatest of his works. * * It is a rubbed-out pic- ture ; yet still, though ‘ shorn of its beams,’ it is not less ‘ than archangel ruined.’ For the conception, purpose, and originality, — as an arrangement of colour, effect, and of sentiment,— I consider it one of the first works the art of painting has to boast of; and, in the adaptation of light and shadow to the illusion of the subject, one of the triumphs of modem art.” — Wilkie. This picture was begun about the year 1522, and is one of the most admirable specimens of that masterly management of light and shade in which Correggio is unrivalled. 3. Virgin and Child, with St. George. The figures of the children and woman are particularly admired for their grace and sweetness of expression. 4. The recumbent Mag- dalen, one of the sweetest and most pleasing, as well as the most faultless pictures ever painted. It is distin- guished for its peculiar softness of out- line, and is executed in the artist's best manner. “ It is in its pristine con- dition ; almost as left by the master, without even varnish. The head, neck, and arms are beautiful; the face and right arm one of the finest pieces of painting I have witnessed. The sha- dows are extremely loaded ; the lights, though painted flat and floating, are, compared with them, thin and smooth. The background and darks of the pic- ture, even the blue'drapery, want rich- ness and transparency.”— Wilkie. 4. The Virgin and Child with St. Sebastian, painted about 1528, is one of the most striking examples pf the master’s magic chiaro-scuro, remarkable, to use the words of an eminent artist, for the “ exquisite truth of tint in the passage from light to dark; so that in this picture, as in nature/the spectator is soon unconscious of the presence of shade.” Parmeggiano — Virgin and Child, known as the Madonna della Rosa. Baroecio— Hagar in the Desert. And. del Sarto—The Sacrifice of Isaac. Julio Romano — Virgin and Child, with a basin. A copy of Raphael’s Madonna della Seggiola, not much inferior to the original at Florence. Vicenzio di San Gimignano — A Virgin and Child; an exquisite little picture, one of the most pleasing in the Gallery. Leonardo da Vinci — A portrait attributed to him, and called Lewis Sforza in the cata- logue, is now ascertained to be the likeness of a burgomaster of Basle, and the work of Holbein : it is admirahly painted and most carefully finished, though in a rather dry manner. Gau- denzio Ferrari—a Very good specimen of this artist. Carlo Hold—St. Cecilia; one of the best pictures of the painter. — Our Saviour blessing the Bread, the same as the picture at Burleigh. Annibal Caracd—St. Matthew writing his Gospel under the superintendence of the Virgin.— Fame soaring upwards; a masterly performance, which the ar- tist has hardly surpassed. Caravaggio — The Card-players; full of truth and nature. Francesco Albano— A Dance of Cupids. Guido— Venus ; — Bacchus. Carlo Cignani — Joseph and Potiphar’s Wife ; a masterpiece. Dutch, Flemish, and German schools. The works of the early German and Flemish masters here, are far inferior to those at Munich, Berlin, and Vi- enna ; but in the productions of the later period of these schools, the Dres- den Gallery is very rich indeed. A. Durer—Portrait of a Man, probably Lucas van Leyden ; —a Rabbit in wa- ter colours, very well done. Hans Holbein the younger — The family of Jacob Meyer, Burgomaster of Basle, kneeling before the Virgin. This is, without doubt, Holbein’s chef-d’neuvre. — The portrait of a Burgomaster of Basle, before alluded to, a very first- rate performance. — A portrait, said to be of Luther; doubtful. L. Cranach -— Portraits of Melancthon, Erasmus, and of himself, are interesting. Gerard Dow—The artist himself, when young, playing on a violin;—another of him, painting;—a Hermit in a cave, ela- borately finished;—a Dentist drawing a Boy’s Tooth. Teniers—The Al-Saxony. route 87.—Dresden, picture gallery. 455 chymist’s Shop ; — A Village Fete. Ostade — The Painter in his Study, a Girl reading at an open Window. Franz Mieris — A travelling Tinker scrutinizing a worn-out Kettle. Netscher —A Lady playing while a Man by her side is singing; — portrait of Madame de Montespan ;—the artist’s own por- trait. Paul-Potter—Two cattle-pieces. Rubens — A sketch for “ The Descent of the Fallen Angels,” at Munich ; — the Judgment of Paris;—Neptune still- ing the Tempest (called the “ quos ego ") upon the passage of the Cardinal Ferdi- nand of Austria from Spain to Italy ;— the Lion Hunt. Van Dyk — Portrait of Charles I., of (his queen, and his children ; — portrait of Old Parr, an Englishman, at the age of 151 years. Rembrandt—His own portrait, with his wife sitting on his knee, and a glass of wine in his hand ; — his daughter; — and mother. Ferdinand Rol—Joseph presenting his Father to Pharaoh ; worthy of Rembrandt; — the Repose in Egypt. Ruisdael—The Hunt, a wooded scene, with a piece of water in the foreground; the figures are by Vandevelde : this is considered one of the best pictures Ruisdael ever painted: the effect of the light thrown upon the water is quite magical; — the Chateau of Bentheim. These two pictures are perfect---The Jews’ Burying Ground. Metzu — The Poultryman. Schwane- veldt—A good landscape-. Wouvei'mans — There are no less than 55 pictures by him. There are many of his best efforts here; as the Horse Market, the Camp, the Smithy, the Mill; — the Skirmish of Cavalry, and several battle-pieces. Slingelandt — some of the best works of this master are here. Henry Roos—A cattle piece. Claude — Acis and Gala- tea, admirable for the depth and clear- ness of the brightly illuminated water, combining haTmony of the whole with decision in parts;—the Flight into Egypt. Nic. Poussin — Moses dis- covered by Pharaoh’s Daughter ; — the Sacrifice of Noah ;—the Adoration of the Magi. Modern works — the portraits of 2 children, a popular picture, by Vogel the elder, a Saxon artist. Gerard’s por- trait of Napoleon in his coronation robes is historically interesting. A large series of drawings in crayon (pastel) are hung between the windows in several rooms. The best are the following, by Raphael Mengs :—Cupid sharpening his Arrows, is excellent; — his own portrait, and that of Metas- tasio. La Belle Chocolatiere, a wait- ress at a coffee-house in Vienna, and a celebrated beauty of the last century, who married into a high Austrian family (the Dietrichsteins), and la belle Lyonnaise, a likeness of the Duchess of Kingston, in a French dress, reading a letter, are by Liotaud, in crayons. The remainder are, for the most part, by Rosalba Camera, a female artist of Venice, and of inferior merit. Below the Picture Gallery is a Col- lection of Plaster Casts of the most famous antique statues known. They are called the Mengsische Abgiisse, hav- ing been made by and under the su- perintendence of the celebrated artist, Raphael Mengs. “ Besides perfect ac- curacy, many parts of the figure, such as the hair, are finished with a-much higher degree of industry and precision than is usually found in this department of the plastic art. ” — Russell. Amongst other interesting objects is a group representing Menelaus carrying away the body of Pat rod us, put to- gether and restored from antique frag- ments in the Pitti Palace at Florence. The exertion and muscular display of the one figure, contrasted with the im- potent lifeless limbs of the other, are not to be surpassed. The Boy on the Dolphin, by Raphael (?), cast of Venus, and colossal bust of Juno, also deserve attention. A new Picture Gallery is now (1849) building on the N. E. side of the Zwin- ger, from the designs of Professor Semper, the architect of the new theatre. As it will not be sufficiently large to contain the whole collection, the best works only will be deposited in it. It will be completed about the end of 1851. The plaster casts of Mengs, and perhaps other similar collections, are to be placed in this new “ Museum.” The Zwinger.—This building, erected456 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. THE ZWINGER. Sect. VII. in 1711, was intended merely as the fore-court and entrance yard to a new and magnificent palace, designed by Augustus II., but never carried fur- ther. It is an enclosure consisting of an arcade, which, with the portal in front, are light and handsome, but sur- mounted by heavy and inelegent pa- vilions at the sides. These buildings are now occupied by the following collections: — 1. The Historical Mu- seum. 2. Museum of Natural His- tory. 3. Cabinet of Prints and Drawings. 1. The Historical Museum (His- torisches Museum, formerly called Rust- hammer— Armoury) is well arranged in the N. wing of the Zwinger. It is opened to the public only twice a week in the summer months, on Monday and Thursday, from 8 to 12, and 2 to 6, by tickets, only 36 of which are given out at a time, so that the best way to see it is to pay the fee of two dollars, and make an appointment with the inspector for a private view at other hours. This is undoubtedly one of the finest collections of the kind in Europe. Though less interesting, as an histo- rical collection, it surpasses the Am- bras collection at Vienna in armour of rich and studied workmanship, and leaves the Armoury in the Tower of London very far behind. It contains all the weapons, offensive and defensive, of chivalrous warfare ; all the trappings and accoutrements of the tournament and other wild sports of feudal ages. Wealth and skill appear to have been exhausted in the materials and deco- ration of'the armour. The elaborate workmanship in gold, silver, and ivory expended on the smaller arms, as the hilts of swords, stocks of guns, bits and stirrups, the rich damasking of the plate armour and gun-barrels, and the carving and inlaid work so profusely bestowed, are sufficient to excite wonder and admiration. Sir Samuel Meyrick says of this Museum, that there are no suits in it older than the time of our Henry VIII.; but several of Queen Elizabeth’s period, for man and horse, are covered with reliefs executed in the richest style. The 1st room contains specimens of painted glass of the 16th and 17th centuries ; portraits of the Saxon princes of the Ernestine and Albertine dynas- ties. Those of Albert and his wife are by L Cranach : the rest are for the most part copies. Around the room are arranged many articles of old furniture, cabinets, &c., almost all of which are ascertained to have belonged to the worthies whose effigies now decorate the walls. The work-table of the Electress Anne (1585) may interest the ladies. A cabinet given to Martin Luther by his friend the Elector John Frederick, containing relics of the great reformer; together with a small sacramental cup, of silver gilt and ebony, which was presented to him by the Elector. A great uumber of ancient drinking ves- sels, horns, goblets, cups, for all varie- ties of potations:—the reader of Walter Scott will be pleased to discover among them the type of the blessed bear of Bradwardine. The 2d room is filled with imple- ments of sports, pastimes, the chase, gardening, turning,. &c. ; spears, knives, bows, hunting-horns, and game-bags. A carved hunting-horn of ivory (12th century?) ; the hunting-knife and horn of Henri IV. of France; the cross- bow of the Elector Maurice (d. 1653); of John Frederick, 1554, ornamented, with a representation of Orpheus on one side, and a chase on the other. Game-bags (Schwedler) embroidered by princesses; a collection of dogs’ collars, arranged in chronological order from the time of Henry the Pious, 1541, to John George I., 1656. 3rd. Gallery of Tournament, occu- pied almost entirely with parade arms and armour, employed in the tilts and tournaments of the times of chivalry. Of a collection of swords here shown, the oldest is a French blade, bearing the date 1293. The labour and skill bestowed on the ornaments of some of the sword-hilts should not be over- looked. In this gallery of iron statues,Saxony. ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 457 horse and foot, the most remarkable suits are,—one, probably, of the 16th ■century, a present to the Elector from Philip Emanuel, Duke of Savoy. Near it is a black suit worn at the burial of the Elector, Augustus I. A knight, in black armour, on horseback, usually -formed part of the funeral procession of the Saxon princes; several black suits in the collection have been made or used for this purpose. In the same way, on gala days and at great festivi- ties, such as the accession, marriage, or the like event in the life of a Saxon prince, a knight in a suit of gold and silver armour, as gaily and as splen- didly decorated as possible, made part of the show. On these joyous occasions, thehorse was called Gala Horse ( Freude Pferd), and on the more mournful, Mourning Horse (Trauer Pferd). A suit of armour (No. 316.) for man and horse, manufactured in Italy, is hardly to be surpassed in the elabo- rate workmanship with which it is decorated. Its surface is covered with reliefs, representing the Labours of Hercules, the Golden Fleece, Theseus and Ariadne, and similar mythological subjects, all evincing the hand of a masterly artist. Another suit, of iron and copper gilt, was made, 1599, by Colman, an armourer at Augsburg, for Christian II. Several shields and helmets of iron, beautifully chased, and ornamented with reliefs, such as are usually employed only in decorating plate or other arti- cles, formed of the precious metals. It is well known that the invention and taste in design of the most talented artists was called in to aid the skill of the armourers of those days. Near the end of the room are several tilting suits. Two of these in par- ticular deserve notice. They are the complete equipment of two knights on horseback for the more earnest species of tournament, the duel (Scharfrennen, Germ.), which sometimes ended in the death of one of the parties. The weight of each of these tilting suits is nearly 2 cwt. They are so ponderous and unwieldy, that the slightest motion was hardly possible; the wearer could not even turn his head, but must con- tent himself with looking straight for- ward through the scanty opening of his heavy helmet. The suits consist of a breast-plate, to which is attached a shield, and over it a black target of wood, still bearing the dents of the lance, and a back piece. To this was screwed a sort of hook, serving as a rest for the lance, attached to the saddle behind. Without this provision it would have hardly been possible to support, in a horizontal position, the heavy lances used in the tournament.- The thighs were not encased, but pro- tected by two shields, or pieces of iron, projecting from the saddle on each side. The inspection of these very interesting suits will give a far better insight into the nature of a tournament than the best description. The two different kinds of lance in use at the tournament are here exhibited, one pointed, and intended to pierce through both armour and wearer, and used only in the com- bat for life and death ; the other ending in several small spikes, and intended to attach itself to the outside of the armour, when driven against it. The 4th room. Another long gal- lery is filled with warlike arms for use in the field, not for show, less pon- derous and unwieldy than the pre- ceding. A large part have been worn in battle. Many of the suits were made for Saxon princes, and other historical characters, and are chronolo- gically arranged. The first is that of George the Bearded, Duke of Saxony. Near it is the sword of Thomas Miinzer, the leader of the rebellious peasants in Thuringia, in 1525; a character who. united the knavery of Jack Cade with the religious madness of the chiefs of the Covenanters in Scotland. The armour of Henry the Pious; of John Frederick the Magnanimous, worn by him when taken prisoner at Miihlberg, 1547. There arc 3 suits of the Elec- tor Maurice; near them is preserved the blood-stained scarf which lie wore at the battle of Sievershausen, and the bullet fired (according to tradition) by. a traitor on his own side, which killed him, 1553. The fluted armour of458 ROUTE 87.—DRESDEN. ARMOURY. Sect. vn. Christian I. is very handsome. Near it is the sword with which the Chan- cellor Crell was beheaded, in spite of Queen Elizabeth’s intercession on his behalf. It bears the motto, “ Cave Calviniane.” The figure which stands 11th in the row of Saxon princes, is that of the Elector John George, who was a leader in the Thirty Years’ War. The 15th, a brown suit, is the armour of Gustavus Adolphus, which he left at Weissenfels before the battle of Liit- zen (in the fight he wore a suit of .buff leather, now preserved at Vienna). The marshal’s staves of his opponents, Counts Tilly and Pappenheim, are also preserved here. )) | Among the most interesting histo- rical relics is the scale armour worn by the heroic John Sobieski, at the siege of Vienna, in 1683; near it are dis- played the trophies, arms, horse-tail standards, &c., gained by the detach- ment of Saxon troops who fought under him on that occasion. Their com- mander, the Elector of Saxony (whose armour is also here), was the first who planted a Christian flag in the Turkish camp. Farther on is the cuirass of Augustus II., surnamed the Strong, weighing 100 lbs. It would be diffi- cult to find a man at present who could walk in his armour, “ which you can hardly raise from the ground; or wear his cap, which encloses an iron hat, heavier than a cauldron. But Augustus, if you believe the Saxons, was a second Samson.” He is said to have “ lifted a trumpeter in full armour, and held him aloft in the palm of his hand—to have twisted the iron banister of a stair into a rope—and to have made love to a coy beauty by pre- senting in one hand a bag of gold, and breaking with the other a horse-shoe.” —Russell's Germany. , Against the walls and pillars of this room are arranged a variety of swords and other weapons, many of which are remarkable for their workmanship, others for their history. Battle-axes and maces, of various dates and patterns. A dagger which, after being thrust into the body, separates into three parts on touching a spring, so that it would be impossible to extract it from a wound. A short sword, notched on one side, in- tended to catch the blade of an adver- sary, and break it short off before it could be c disengaged. The dagger of Rudolph of Swabia, who lost his hand while raising it to wound his brother, the Emperor Henry IV., in a single combat at Merseberg, 1080. The workmanship is very fine. The weapons with which the Bohe- mian peasants armed themselves during the Hussite War consist of flails shod with iron ; a Polish battle-scythe, of the period of Kosiusko’s revolution — a most fearful weapon, which with one blow might cleave horseman and horse in twain ; the sword of Don John of Austria, who commanded at Lepanto. The fifth room contains fire arms, from their earliest invention in Europe. One of the oldest weapons of this kind is a rude sort of pistol, supposed to date from the end of the 15th century, a mere iron barrel, 1inches long, with a touch-hole in the side. It was fired not by a flint falling upon steel, but by the friction of a file upon a piece of firestone (pyrites). The file was inserted in a groove by the side of the touch-hole, it was then covered with powder, and the firestone screwed down tightly in contact with it. When the file was smartly drawn out, the friction served to ignite the powder. The first step .of improvement after this was a pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted tow; then came the wheel-lock, and afterwards the falling-lock, with flint and steel. Specimens of all these va- rieties are preserved here; also the pistols of Maurice of Saxony, splen- didly inlaid with silver and ivory. Another pair, remarkable for their plainness, belonged to Charles XII. of Sweden, and were borne by him on the day of his death at Frederickshal. 6th. This room is filled with costly stuffs used at the coronations and other festivities of Augustus II. and III., Kings of Poland; trappings and harness for horses, of most rich materialsj splendidly embroidered bits and stir- rups, and housings for sledge-horses,Saxony. ROUTE 87.--DRESDEN. MUSEUM. 459 &c., on which the most elaborate orna- ments have been expended. One set of harness is of gold, splendidly ena- melled, set with rubies ; another of silver set with pearls. In the 4 large cabinets are the state costumes of princes from the 16th to 18th centuries, and in 2 smaller ones are shoes of dif- ferent nations ; also those of Kant and Wieland, and the boots of Murat ; likewise mitres worn by the bishops of Meissen. The 7th room is fitted up with a Turkish tent, taken at the siege of Vienna, 1683; and its contents are chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 8th. Includes an ethnographical col- lection ; the garments and weapons of various barbarous and savage nations, partly formed by Prof. Poppig in S. America,—as hammocks, clubs, poi- soned arrows, shooting tubes, dresses of coloured feathers, teeth, and claws, arms of the S. Sea Islanders, &c. 9th. Contains riding equipments and parade trappings. Among the historical relics in the last and splendidly orna- mented apartments are, the robes worn by Augustus the Strong at his corona- tion as King of Poland. By the side of them, as it were to show his claim to the by-name of “ the Strong,” is kept the horse-shoe which he broke in two between his fingers; together with the written testimony of those who were witnesses of this feat of strength. The swords deposited here are among the chief ornaments of the collection ; the iron hilts being of carved work, exe- cuted at Nuremberg with surprising correctness; there are several hundred of them. The little cocked hat of Peter the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned with his own hand, are among the curi- osities here. Last of all, here may be seen a saddle of red velvet, which be- longed to Napoleon ; the boots which he wore at the battle of Dresden, which seem to have sadly needed cobbling; and the satin shoes worn by him at his coronation.- Electrotypes of the objects of this collection are made of various sizes by the inspector, Mr. Biittner. There is also a collection of 2000 guns of va- rious fashions and ages, which may in- terest sportsmen and soldiers, and a series of twenty pictures representing tournaments, with dates and descrip- tions. The Museum of Natural History, oc- cupying the lower story of one side of the Zwinger, is shown gratis from April to October, on Wednesdays and Saturdays:—the minerals from 9 to 12 ; the zoology from 3 to 6; by tick- ets, only 15 of which are given out at once. A fee of 2 dollars will procure admittance at other times, if intimation be sent to the curators. This collection is not on a par with many others on the continent, and is kept in a very slovenly state, but still contains some objects which a person interested in science would be sorry to have missed. When the Opera-house of the Palace was burnt, during the insurrection of 3d to 7th May, 1849, a part of this wing of the Zwinger was destroyed, containing the cabinet of stuffed birds, and the valuable Herba- rium of Prof. Reichhard. Minerals___-The specimens from the Saxon Mines, of the ores of silver, co- balt, lead, and iron, are very complete, especially those from Freiberg and the Erzgebirge. One specimen of native silver formed part of a mass of pure metal large enough to serve as a dinner- table for the Elector, when he visited the Schneeberg mine, in which it was found. The collection of fossils is large. The specimens of petrified monocotyledon- ous plants from Chemnitz deserve par- ticular notice. Among them is an enormous tree, 5^ ft. diameter, petrified root and branch. Another curiosity is a tube, many feet long, formed by light- ning falling upon a bed of sand, which has been partially melted by the electric fluid, wherever it took its course. It was found behind the baths of Link. The like have been discovered in Eng- land and other parts of the world. Zoology. — This part of the museum, scarcely worth visiting, has been neg- lected, and is not very complete. As curiosities, we may mention the horse of Augustus II., stuffed. Its tail mea- x 2460 ROUTE 87*—DRESDEN. ANTIQUITIES. Sect. VII. sures 24 fit. ; its mane, 16 ft. Two of his dogs are also preserved here. One is 3 feet high, and measures 5 feet from the snout to the tail. The other is 5 inches long, and 1J inch high. The beaver from the Elbe, the horns of a stag embedded in the centre of the trunk of a tree, and a Guanche mummy, also merit notice. . Cabinet of Engravings (Kupferstich- Sammlung) is shown to artists and amateurs on Tuesdays, from 8 to 12, by tickets, which are given out in limited numbers by-the curator. Strangers who wish to see it at other times must secure the attendance of the manager, M. Frenzel. That amiable and erudite gentleman will give every information respecting it. On such occasions a fee of 3 dollars (for a party), is usually put into the hands of his attendant. This is “ one of the most complete collections of copper-plates in Europe, containing every thing that is interest- ing in the history of the art, or valuable from practical excellence, and forms a supplement to the Picture Gallery. The oldest is of the date 1466, and is said to be the earliest yet known. Whoever wishes to study the history of this beau- tiful art, and to be initiated in the mys- teries of connoisseurship, can find no better school than the cabinet of Dres- den. It overflows with materials, and is under the direction of a gentleman who not only seems to be' thoroughly master of his occupation, but has the much rarer merit of being, in the highest •degree, particularly attentive and com- municative. ” — Russell. There are 300,000 engravings in ■this collection. It is rich in the early ■German masters, Mechenen, Schcen- gauer, Albert Durer, Wohlgemuth, &c., and has some valuable Marc Antonios. The 50 portfolios of Drawings by the old masters, especially of the early Ger- man, Flemish, and Dutch schools, form a very interesting and prominent por- tion of this cabinet. There is, beside, a most valuable collection, unique pro- bably of its kind, of portraits, to the number of nearly 450, of all the most distinguished characters of the 19 th century in Europe; sovereigns and royal families, statesmen and ge- nerals, artists and men of eminence in science and literature, all find a place here. They have been taken from the life by Professor Vogel of Dresden, are drawn with a masterly pencil, and the likenesses are perfect. Several of the most'eminent artists of our own country are included in the series. The Japanese Palace, situated in the Neustadt, on the right bank of the Elbe, close to the Leipzig gate, was built by Augustus II., as a summer residence. It receives its name from some grotesque oriental figures and ornaments with which- it is decorated. It now serves only the purposes of a Museum, and contains the following collections : — 1. The Museum of Antiquities. 2. The Library. 3. The Collection of Porcelain, and Terra Cottas. 1. The Antiquities, open Wednesday and Saturday, from 8 to 12, from the 1st of May to the 31st of Oct., are placed on the left-hand side of the en- trance hall, on the ground floor. A traveller fresh from the galleries of Rome and Florence may perhaps be disposed to despise this collection, which indeed ranks after that at Munich, &c., and has moreover suffered both from the ignorant mutilations of a barbarous age, and from the reparations and re- storations of a more enlightened period. Nevertheless, there are many objects of high interest, both in point of art, and as illustrations of antiquity. There is a good - catalogue which is to be bought in the Waltherschen Hofbuch- handlung for 20 ngr., or which may be hired of the attendant at the gallery. In the 1st hall are modern works in bronze, and marble, and copies : in the 2d hall called that of the 3-sided altar, are one or two modern works which deserve notice, as, 83. A bronze bust, of Gustavus Adolphus, made from a cast taken after his death; —87. A bust of Charles I. of England ; — 94. A bust of Cardinal Richelieu, of bronze, a cha- racteristic likeness, of good workman- ship ;—100. A triangular altar with niches for Lares; —101. Deianira car-Saxony. route 87.—Dresden, antiquities. 461 ried off by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of John of Bologna. Third HaU. No. 128. A bead of Niobe, like the one at Florence, and, though inferior to it, showing that beautiful expression of intense mental agony, of which, it is said, the masters of the Bolognese school sometimes availed themselves in their represen- tations of the Virgin, especially in those paintings of the Descent from the Cross, or burial of the Saviour, in which the body lies in the Virgin’s arms. 129. A female bronze head, bust of coloured marble: called the eldest daughter of Niobe. 158. A triangular pedestal of a candelabrum, of Pentelic marble; the relief carved on one side represents Hercules with- held by Apollo from carrying off the sacred tripod from Delphi; on an- other side is the reconsecration of the restored tripod; on the 3rd is the con- secration of a sacred torch. They are executed in the style called Eginetan. This specimen is curious, as showing the early progress of the art. The faces are all alike, and without expres- sion ; the draperies are stiff, and the hair resembles a coil of rope. 154. A Torso of Pallas Promachos, known as the Dresden Minerva; she is clad in the peplus, woven for her by Athe- nian virgins; a strip in front, repre- senting rich embroidery, is divided into 11 compartments, the subjects being the battles of the Goddess with the Titans. 152. is a restoration of the above statue in clay by Professor Rauch of Berlin. _ Fourth Hall. —187. Minerva repre- sented as the goddess who presided over the intellectual part of warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. (Mars was the god of wild combats and battles.) The figure is somewhat mas- culine in its shape and proportions; there is more of manhood than woman- hood in the appearance of her broad shoulders and narrow hips. The ASgis is thrown on carelessly and awry; — 190. A Young Wrestler ; — 224. Am- pelos, or Satyriscus, in the attitude of pouring wine. There arc 3 other statues pare one who purposes visiting them for understanding the processes when on the spot. There is an office for the sale of minerals attached to this esta- blishment. There are said to be about 130 Mines of silver, copper, lead, and co- balt, round Freiberg: the prevailing rock in which they are situated is a primary gneiss. To see a mine tho- roughly will occupy about 3 hours. A permission must first be obtained from the Bergmeister in Freiberg. Stran- gers are provided with a miner’s dress at the entrance of the mine. Most of the mines are distant a mile or two from the town, and proper guides are appointed to'conduct persons thither. The mine most conveniently visited, perhaps, is that called the Kurfurst ( Elector), because it is large and dry; it lies near Gross Schirma. The Alt Mord Grube (Old Murder Mine) has very remarkable hydraulic pumps for ex- tracting the water. The principal ores of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of lead, native silver, and red silver. The Amalgamir- Werh at Halsbriick, about 3 miles out of the town, where the pure silver is obtained from the less productive ores by amalgamation with quicksilver, is well worth seeing. The [process is carried on here upon the most scientific principles. At Halsbriick are also situated many smelting furnaces. What is called the Hebe-haus, a sort of crane (like the staiths on the Tyne), by which boats are raised out of the Mulde into a canal, is a guide-book wonder, not worth the trouble of the walk. The Miners of the Saxon Erzgebirge are a somewhat primitive class. Their form of salutation is by the words “ Gluck auf.” They are enrolled in a sort of semi-military corps, of which the common workmen are the privates, and the superintendents and managers the officers. They are called out seve- ral times a year for inspection, or pa- rade, and in addition assemble in a body at certain stated times to attend miners’ prayers in the church, at the funeral of a superior officer, during the visit of a royal personage, and on days of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich vein. On these occasions they appear in uniform, their leather aprons fastened on behind, leather pockets in the place of cartouche-boxes, and a large knife stuck in the girdle. The common miners march with their pickaxes shouldered, the carpenters with their axes, and the smiths with their ham- mers borne in the same fashion. These processions have a martial appearance, are headed by a band playing a miners’476 ROUTE 90.--CHEMNITZ. MANUFACTURES. Sect. YIT. inarch, and accompanied by flying co- lours. The officers have similar uni- forms, distinguished according to their rank. All, up to the chief, or Berg- Hauptman, whether in working cos- tume or in full dress, wear the singular hinder-apron, which, from its position, bears a very significant name. Even the sovereign, were he to appear on the spot, as head miner of Saxony, could not dispense with this appendage. To be deprived of it is the greatest dis- grace to which the miner can be sub- jected ; he thereby loses bis privilege, and the dishonour is equal to that of knocking off the spurs from a knight’s heels. The road from Freiberg to Carlsbad by Joachimsthal is described in Hand- book for South Germany. Rte. 259. After quitting Freiberg, our road leaves on the right the hamlet of Gross Schirma, and passes the mines of Neu- Gottes-Segen (New blessing of God), and farther on of Himmelsfiirst (Prince of Heaven), once the richest in the dis- trict, and one of the most productive mines in Europe, distant about 2 m. from Freiberg to the south-east. 2| Oederan.—Inns : Post; Hirsch. A manufacturing town of 3130 inhab. The little village Flohe is remarkable as the birthplace of the eminent states- man and lawyer Sam. Puffendorf, whose father was the ministerj here. On the right of the village of Flohe rises the castle of Augustusburg, built 1572 by the Elector Augustus. It has a well 286 yards deep, cut in the rock ; and a lime-tree 400 years old is still growing in its garden. The chapel contains two pictures by L. Cranach. 2 3 Chemnitz—(Inn : Romischer Kai- ser)—is the principal manufacturing town in Saxony (2300 inhab.). The cot- ton goods, especially stockings,for which it is chiefly celebrated, and to which it owes its present prosperity, rival even the English in quality and cheapness. In the quantity of hosiery produced, Saxony already equals Great Britain. The American market is almost ex- clusively supplied from hence. The spacious factory of Becker and Schraps, the largest in Saxony, has 18,600 spin- | dies. Stockings for the American mar- ket are made here at the low rate of 3s. 4d. a dozen. “ The chief inferiority to the British lies in their want of elasticity. The stocking weavers for the most part are not congregated into manufactories, but live in cottages of their own, the fee-simple of which they have purchased by their own earnings. They cultivate in their own gardens the potatoes and other vegetables which form their usual food, and support from the same source the animals which pro- vide them with the small quantity of meat they consume: they live com- monly with great frugality on potatoes and coffee. When the demand for manufacture is slack, they employ themselves in the field and garden; when it is active, they devote them- selves to their frames and looms. The State provides them with gratuitous instruction, which has the happiest effect both on their industry and fru- gality."—Bowring. Chemnitz is also famous for the manufacture of spinning machinery, which is sent to all parts of the Continent. It has a population of 23,000 souls, and is situated in a beau- tiful and well-watered valley. For 400 years it was a Free Imperial city, and still displays in its buildings marks of its antiquity. The ancient walls which formerly surrounded it have been pulled down, and their site con- verted into a pleasant Boulevard con- necting the old town with its fine thriving suburbs. On the outskirts of the town is the Schloss, a conventual building of 1125, turned into a ducal residence by the Elector Maurice, now an inn, but retaining some ancient por- tions. The Church has a richly carved portal on one side, imitating a frame- work of boughs, carved in stone, 1525. Within, a stone pulpit with bas-reliefs, 1536, and some old paintings, deserve notice. The Great Church, Stadt kirche, has an altar-piece of web; the original centre is destroyed, but the wings, painted with 4 saints, are probably by Wohlgemuth. Next to it the chief buildings are the Rathhaus and Ge- wandhaus (cloth hall).Saxony. route 91.—Leipzig to hof. 477 A railway is being constructed to connect Chemnitz with Reisa, on the Leipzig and Dresden line, and the part between Reisa and Dobeln was opened in 1847. Lungwitz. 2£ Zwickau (Inn, Post); on the banks of the Zwickaner Mulde ; has 5300 in- liab. Sf. Mary's church, the finest Gothic edifice in the Erzgebirge, date 1453- 1536, is distinguished by its tall tower, which Luther often ascended on account of the'pleasing view it commands. With- in the church is a very fine altar-piece by the old German master Wohlgemuth, representing the Virgin and female saints, surrounded by a richly carved wooden frame-work, executed 1479, with statues of saints sculptured 'in wood. The church of St. Catherine is a fine Gothic building (date 1465). The high altar-piece, the Feet Washing and other subjects, is by an artist of the Nuremberg school. A branch railway connects Zwickau with the Leipzig and Hof railway, which is open (July, 1849) as far as Reichenbach, the next stage on this road. There is a good road from Zwickau to Carlsbad, through Schnee- berg and the Erzgebirge. (Rte. 91.) ' About 15 m. S. E. of Zwickau, at Aue, there are extensive cobalt mines and smalt works. Near this also is dug the porcelain earth from which the china manufactory of Meissen is supplied. The serpentine stone, which is turned in the lathe and manufactured into va- rious articles, comes from the quarries at Zoblitz. Reichenbach—(Inns: Dass Lamm ; Engel)—another thriving manufac- turing town ; it has 4500 inhab., who are chiefly employed in the manufac- ture of muslin, and in spinning and weaving cotton and wool into kersey- meres, merinos, flannel, and “ English thread.” A fire in 1833 destroyed a great part of the town. 3 Plauen. — Inns: Post; Deutsches Haus: neither very good. A town of 7000 inhab., also deriving prosperity from manufactures of linen, cotton, and muslin. It is irregularly built on un- even ground, and is traversed by the stream of the" Elster, which waters a romantic valley, and produces pearls ; a royal fishery is established at Oelsnitz for collecting them. The old Castle (called Rathschauer), rising high above the town, was in ancient times the residence of the Bailiff, or Voight (Advocatus regni, from whom the sur- rounding district got the name of Voigtland'); it is now converted into public offices. The railway from Leip- zig to Hof is open between Plauen and Hof: the part between Reichen- bach and Plauen being alone unfinished. (July, 1849.) 1 j Hof. — Inns : Hirsch ; Branden- burger Hof. This is the first Bava- rian town ; it contains 7000 inhab., and possesses important manufactures of cotton and woollen goods. Its situ- ation is so elevated, that only the hardier kinds of fruits come to perfec- tion. The country around is bleak and barren ; the rock is primary limestone, abounding in fossils; and there are many iron mines in the district. The town of Hof was burnt down for the tenth time recorded in its annals, in 1832, and consequently a large part is newly built. A handsome church was erected in 1833. The frontiers of Saxony, Reuss, Prussia (the town of Gefall is Prussian), and Bohemia, are not more than 10 in. distant from Hof. An extensive smuggling trade is carried on with Bohemia. • • The Railway from Leipzig is con- tinued to Nuremberg, passing through Neuenmarkt, Culmbach, Liehtenfels and Bamberg. Trains go from Hof to Nuremberg in 8 hrs. (See Handbook for S. Germany.) ROUTE 91. LEIPZIG TO HOF. RAILWAY, BY ALTEN- BURGJ AND LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. — ERZGEBIRGE. 19 Germ. m. =91^ Eng. m. N. B. It is advisable to have the signature of an Austrian 'minister on the 'passport before commencing the journey to Carlsbad. The Railroad is478 route 91.—Leipzig to hof. Sect. VII. open from Leipzig to Zwickau and to Hof, except the part between Reichen- bach and Plauen, between which points communication is kept up by omni- buses. 2i Kieritzsch Stat. The mining district of the Erzge- birge (ore mountains) displays few of the beauties of nature on its surface. Her bounty has here been expended below ground, [where she has stored away, for the use of man, vast supplies of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. The soil is poor, vegetation is scanty, and is further checked in the vicinity of the mines by the vapours from smelting furnaces; and the face of the country is disfigured by hillocks of rubbish and heaps of slag. 2f Altenburg Stat. — Inns: Stadt Go- tha, good; Hirsch. The capital of the duchy of Saxe Altenburg on the Pleisse has 14,200 inhab. The Palace (Schloss), on an escarped rock, was often the residence of Charlemagne, who here invested Otto of Wittelsbach with the Duchy of Bavaria. Part of it is very old : it is worth visiting, and contains an armoury. Out of one of its apartments the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kaufungen and William Von Mosen, stole' the young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, in 1445. The ducal fa- mily reside in the modern part, built in the 17th century. The Gothic Church (Stift'St. Georg) 1412 — containing exquisitely carved stalls, &c., of that date, deserves notice. The Mantel Thurm and Schloss Gate are very ancient. The Damm is the name of an agree- able promenade around a sheet of water on the S. side of the town. The inhabitants of the Duchy of Altenburg, a branch of the Sclavonic family, are distinguished by their very peculiar and old-fashioned costumes handed down to them by their ancestors. The petticoats of the women, like a Highlander’s kilt, reach no further than the knee, their bodies are enclosed in a cuirass of basket-work, and their heads are surmounted by a conical cap of por- tentous dimensions. The people have lost their language and speak German, but retain many old customs as well as their dress. Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon tin mines are situated. 2 Gosnitz Stat. ) Railway.' 1 ^ Krimmitzschau k Thence to Plauen. Stat. 1 J Rte. 90. 1^ Werdau Stat. Beyond this station a branch line turns off to * 1^ Zwickau, on the high-road from Dresden to Nuremberg, Rte. 90. The railway to Hof continues southward, and is open as far as Reichenbach, and from Plauen to Hof, Rte. 90. From Zwickau the road to Carlsbad proceeds to 2^ Schneeberg. — Inns : Sachsischer Hof; Der Ring; Goldene Sonne. An important mining town of 7500 inhabs., chiefly engaged in the mines, and in preparing the ores of silver, cobalt, &c., obtained from them. There is also a considerable manufactory of smalt here. That used in the Dresden china is pre- pared here from the cobalt. The town was founded 1471, in consequence of the discovery of the mines. The Parish Church is 'a very fine building, in the latest Gothic, 1516—40. Its altar-piece is the finest work of the elder Cranach, the Crucifixion, and at the back the Last Judgment, with 8 wings or shut- ters ; they are interesting as specimens of Protestant art, and the treatment of sacred subjects after the Reformation. Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs found' on the mountains of the Erzge- birge, taken as common snuff, is said to be good for sore eyes, and to cure head- aches. In the neighbourhood are the picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenburg, and Wiesenburg. lj Eibenstock. A mining town of 4400 inhabs.; in and about it are fur- naces, founderies, and tin mines. Johann Georgenstadt (vulgarly called Hansgorgenstadt). — Inns : Rathskeller; Schiesshaus. A mining town, named after the Elector John George, in whose reign it was built as an asylum for the Protestants driven out of Bohemia by Ferdinand II.,1654. It has about 3400 inhab. It stands in a rough and very elevated district, a sort of Saxon Siberia, whose produce liesSaxony. route S2.—cassel to eisenach. 479 beneath the barren surface, and consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, uranium, &c. The men are chiefly miners, the women employ themselves in making bobbinet. Hence to the Bohemian frontier is not more than £ a mile. 4 Carlsbad, in Handbook for South German? (Rte. 260.). The nearest road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by Joachinsthal, Annaberg, and Freiberg. (Rte 259.) South Germany. ROUTE 92. CASSEL TO EISENACH, MEININGEN, AND ' , COBURG. 26^ Germ. m. = 129^ Eng. m. SchneUpost several times a week. 2 Helsa. — Inn: Halbemond, small and bad. Walburg. 2 Bischausen. — Inn ; Post; com- fortable ; little country inn. .lj Netra___Inn tolerable. 3 Eisenach. Rte. 86. Those who have leisure will be well repaid for going round by the valley of the Werra, which is highly picturesque and fertile, by Hannoverisch Miinden, Eschwege, and Kreutzberg; the Meiss- ner hill is a fine object. From Eisenach the road runs nearly S., traversing a hilly district, almost entirely covered with the woods of the great Thuringian Forest. It surmounts one of the highest ridges of the dis- trict, at the pass of Hohe Sonne. On the opposite descent lies Wilhelmsthal, a chateau of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar. At Gumpelstadt a road turns off to the 1. to the Bath of Liebenstein, charm- ingly situated on the skirts of the Thu- ringian Forest. Travellers may be well accommodated in the Badhaus or Herzogliche Gasthaus, and in the Neu- bau. The court of Saxe Meiningen passes a portion of the bath season here, in the building called Fiirstenhaus. The spring furnishes one of the strong- est chalybeate waters in Germany, more used for bathing than drinking, Lie- benstein affords the usual amusements of a watering-place — daily music on the walks, balls, concerts, gaming- tables, and theatrical performances dur- ing the season. A little way behind the baths is the Erdfall, a deep recess in the mountain side, piled round with masses of rock, somewhat resembling a colossal Cyclopean wall, overgrown at the top with trees, so as to form ah agreeable retreat in hot weather. Pleasant walks lead from thence along the heights to the Old Castle of Lieben. stem, the cradle of the family of Saxe Meiningen. It is founded on the rock, and parts of its foundation walls fill up the chasms in the limestone. Its towers command a delightful view over the forests of Thuringia, along the vale of the Werra, and as far as the Rhonge- birge. About 3 miles from Liebenstein is the Duke of Saxe Meiningen’s chateau Altenstein, very finely situated on the brow of a hill, with a grassplat and fountain in front, and surrounded by a beautiful park. A crucifix is planted on a projecting rock, marking, accord- ing to tradition, the spot from which St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, preached Christianity to the pagan in- habitants of the country. Half an hour’s, walk from the castle, in the midst of the forest, but not far from the road, stood until 1841, when it was blown down, “ Luthers Buche" (Lu- ther’s Beech), so called from the tra- dition that it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, on his return from Worms, after the Papal bull had been uttered against him, was surprised by a party of armed men in masks, who mounted him on their horses, and car- ried him away a prisoner to the castle of Wartburg. This surprise was con- certed by his friend and patron the Elector Frederick the Wise of Saxony. It was a magnificent tree, 6 ft. in dS- ameter, overtopping all the rest of the forest. At Gliicksbrunn, a village half way between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is one of the most remarkable of the Ca- verns in) which the limestone (dolomite) of this district abounds.480 ROUTE 92.—CASSEL TO MEININGEN AND COBURG. Sect. VII. A good road leads from Liebensteln to Schmalkalden, about 10 m. distant. This ancient and unaltered town, of 5400 inhab., still preserves its double row of antique ramparts, and its fosse. Its houses are mostly built of wood, with timber framework, and, like those of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a highly picturesque character. Most of its inhabitants are smiths, and follow their trade in shops on the ground floor. In the Market-place stand the Gothic Church and the two chief inns, Adler and Krone ; the latter comfort- able. In it the famous Protestant League of Schmalkald was signed, 1531. In the Sannersche Haus, the articles of the League were drawn up by Luther, Melancthon, Agricola, and other di- vines. That confederation was of the highest consequence to the cause of the Reformation, and proved so discourag- ing to its opponents, that no one dared mention Schmalkald in the presence of the Emperor Charles V. On a height above the town rises the old Electoral castle, Wilhelmsbiirg. The valley in which Schmalkald stands may be re- garded as one great smithy ; its inha- bitants are chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is supplied from numerous mines in the vicinity. Below the town are extensive salt-works. To return to the high- road from Eisenach. —The road from Gumpel- stadt descends into the pretty valley of the Werra, which divides two of the boldest mountain ridges in central Ger- many,— the Thuringerwald and the Holie Rhon. The land is fertile, and much tobacco is cultivated. 2^ Barchfeld, on the right bank of the Werra. 2 Schwallungen. 2 Meiningen. — Inns : Siichsiscehr Hof; Hirsch. A town of 6000 inhab., built in the form of a harp, on the rt. bank of the Werra, encircled by wooded hills. It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Meiningen, and residence of the Duke, who is brother of the Queen Dowager of England. The principal building is the Palace, containing va- rious collections of art and natural his- tory. There is an agreeable Park and gardens attached to it, and within these a modern Gothic Chapel with painted glass from Munich. The Jews form an important quota of the community, and have recently built a handsome new quarter. The Church is ancient, but defaced by pews and galleries : behind the altar are some curious monuments of knights, and in the sacristy some specimens of church plate, vestments, &c. A road strikes off from Meiningen to Kissingen, by Mellrichstadt (2^ G. m.) through part of the forest to Neu- stadt (2 G. m.), an old walled town on the Franconian Saal, overhung by the interesting and extensive remains of the castle of - Salzburg. Here is a neat clean Inn__Mannerstadt (1 G. m.) to Kissingen (1^ G. m.). See Hand- book S. Germany. 2 Themar. — Inn, Post. 1 ^ Hildburghausen. — Inns : Sach- sisches Haus, fair; Englisches Haus. The Palace was, down to 1826, the re- sidence of the Dukes of Saxe Hild- burghausen,'until the extinction of the line of Gotha, when they removed to Altenburg, and Hildburghausen was united to Meiningen. The town con- tains about 4000 inhab.—many Jews. It is a lifeless place; the older quarter is of considerable antiquity. If Rodach. 2 Coburg. — Inns : Griiner Baum ; (Poste), dirty ; Schwan no better.' This is one of the residence towns of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha ; the other being Gotha. Population about 9500 inhab. This is remarkable for its clean and opulent looking houses. In the markef-place are some pic- turesque old houses. The Palace called Ehrenburg, the town residence of the Duke, built 1549, is a Gothic edifice, forming 3 sides of a quadrangle, with a tuTretted entrance. It contains a col- lection of engravings, which are not shown, and has some handsome apart- ments. There are some fine specimens of marqueterie in the doors, and Coburg is to this day celebrated for that manu- facture.Saxony. route 93.—gottingen to gotha. 481 In the Theatre, German operas and plays are acted on alternate nights; the establishment belongs to the Duke, and is extremely well conducted. In the Arsenal (zeughaus) there is some fine armour and arms of all ages, and some Turkish trophies, won by the Prince- of Coburg, Austrian field marshal. The ancient Castle of the Dukes of Coburg is situated on a commanding eminence overhanging the town; the views from it extend over the Thurin- gerwald as far as the Franconian Swit- zerland. It is partly converted into a Prison and a House of Correction; but some of the chambers remain in their original condition. The rooms occu- pied by Luther, the bedstead he slept upon during his concealment here, and the pulpit from which he preached in the curious old Chapel, are shown. The “ horn room” is panelled with oak in- laid with woods of different kinds, and enclosing 'mosaic pictures. Another room contains portraits of persons engaged in the Seven Years’ War. There is much valuable armour here, that deserves to be arranged. The Castle was besieged by Wallenstein in the Thirty Years’ War. He made the town of Coburg his head-quarters for some time. Outside the walls may still be seen the remains of the chains to which the limbs of a traitor, who attempted to betray the place, were hung in full view of the besieging army. Wallenstein was at length com- pelled to raise the siege. Among the many country-houses be- longing to the Duke, the hunting-seats of Rosenau avd Kalenberg most de- serve notice for the elegant style in which they are fitted up and the beauty of their situation. The parks and forest around them abound in game of every description. At Rosenau, 4 m. from Coburg, Prince Albert was born. It is an old manor-house surrounded by trees. An avenue 2 miles long leads to it. ROUTE 93. GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA, COBURG, AND BAMBERG. 32 Germ. m. = 151 Eng. m., a mac- adamised road. About a mile from Heiligenstadt the Prussian frontier is crossed, and travellers are subjected to rather a strict search. 3j Heiligenstadt. — Inns : Preus- sischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. (See Route 67. p. 375.) This was formerly capital of the district called Eichsfeld. 2 Dingelstadt. 2^ Miihlhausen. — Inns ; Schwan ; Konig von Preussen. An ancient walled town of 12,000 inhab., plea- santly situated in the midst of a very fertile country on the Unstrut. It was anciently a free city of the empire. The Haupthirche in the Oberstadt is the finest church. Miinzer, the fanatic preacher, who excited the Thuringian peasants to revolt in 1524-25, made Miihlhausen his head-quarters, and col- lected around him a misguided host of 30,000 men, expelling the legitimate magistrates. His undisciplined bands, however, were soon dispersed in the battle of Frankenhausen; he himself was brought hither a prisoner, and, after being tortured, was publicly executed. In his mad harangues he equally abused Luther and the Pope. 1\ Langensalza.—Inns: Mohr; Sonne. An industrious manufacturing town, with a population of 7000. About 2 m. out of the town is a saline sulphureous spring of some re* putation, supplying Baths, much re- sorted to in summer. 2^ Gotha. — In Rte. 86. 2 Ohrdruff. — Inn, Anker (Post). A considerable town of the Thuringer- wald, containing 3500 inhab. The road now begins to ascend the highest ridge of the Thuringian mountains, by easy traverses, admirably constructed. 2 Oberhoff; “ a solitary post-house and Inn, close to the Duke’s Hunting Lodge. The forest here may almost be called primaeval; the pines often attain the height of 280 ft. It yields a yearly revenue of 100,000/. in building-timber482 ROUTE 94.—LEIPZIG TO COBURG. Sect. YU. alone. Game of every description abounds ; the-red deer are of an enor- mous size ; and that elsewhere rare bird the bustard occurs here in great num- bers. Between 700 and 800 stags are killed in a year ; and 20 or 30 of these noble animals may be seen from the road in passing in the evening. The Duke is allowed to have the finest chasse in Germany.”— W. At the little town of Zella a road strikes off on the rt. by Benhausen (2 G. m.) to Meiningen (2^ G. m.). See Rte. 92. Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road attains its highest elevation. The view here is truly magnificent, over a great extent of this noble forest, the dark abyss of its valleys, and its mountains clad with pines, except their often craggy summits. From this point we descend to 2 Suhl. — Inns : Deutsches Haus, best; Krone. The principal town of the Prussian county of Henneberg, situ- ated in the valley of the Lauter, at the base of the Domberg, a peak of which, the Ottilienstein, commands a fine view. Population 7118, chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, or gunsmiths. Suhl has long been celebrated for its fire- arms, and for centuries was the only manufactory of them in Germany. 2 Schleusingen.—Inn, Griiner Baum. Rte. 94 ft. if Hildburghausen. "j - l| Rodach. I In Rte. 92. 2^ Coburg. J Ihis road is important as a line of communication between N. and S. Germany; and there is much traffic of merchandise upon it. It enters the territory of Bavaria about half way between Coburg and 2 Lichtenfels (Inns: Krone, dear and dirty ; Kreutz), a town of 2000 inhab., on the Main, carrying on some trade in timber floated down that river. The Railroad from Leipzig to Nu- remburg passes through Lichtenfels to Bamberg, and runs for some distance on thel. bank of the Main, through Staffel- stein, a village possessing a celebrated pilgrimage Church of the Vierzehn Hei- ligen, under the Staffelberg, a remark- able table hill, which hems in the river on the 1., while on the rt. rises a height, crowned by the suppressed convent of Banz, now residence of Prince Max, brother of the King of Bavaria. The Main, on issuing from this opening in the hills, flows past the small town of Zapfendorf, to Bamberg Stat.—in Handbook South Germany. ROUTE 94. LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOL- STApT, AND SONNENBERG. 25f Germ. m.=120^ EDg. m. 6f Naumburg, in Rte. 76. 2 Kamburg, on the Saal. It was through the defile in the rear of the castle of Dornburg that the Prench marched to outflank the Prussians at. the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road. lj Jena, in Rte. 94 a. The road continues to follow the pretty valley of the Saal, ascending it along the 1. bank of that river. 2 Kahla. — Inn, Stern. A town of 1200 inhab. On tbe opposite bank of the Saal stands the castle of Leuchten- burg, now a prison. The next object worth mentioning is the ruined castle Orlamunde, on a hill beneath which the road passes. 3 Rudolstadt.— Inns: Lowe; Ad» ler; Ritter. The chief town of the principality of Schwarzburg-Rudol- stadt, with a population of 4000. On. the summit of an eminence nearly 200 ft. above the river, stands the residence of the prince, the Castle of Heidechsburg, containing some pictures and a library. It has a park, called Ham, attached to- it. The Ludwisburg in the town con- tains a cabinet of natural history, rich in shells. Opposite Volkstadt a bust, of Schiller has been set up to comme- morate the poet’s residence here in 1788, At Schwarza, 3 m. above Rudol- stadt, the river Schwarza joins the Saal. 5 m. from Rudolstadt, above the small town of Blankenburg (Inn, Goldner Lowe), rise the picturesque ruins of the castle of Greifenstein, birthplace of the unfortunate emperor Gunther of Schwarzburg. 5 m. farther up this winding valley, one of the most beau- tiful in Thuringia, on the summit of aSaxony. route 94>a.—weimar to caklsbad. 483 bold precipitous' rock, stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The greater part of the building is modern, erected after a conflagration, 1726 ; but, in the relic still preserved of the old castle, the Kaiser Saal is worth notice. It con- tains portraits of Roman emperors, from Julius Caesar to Charles IV. 1 In the Arsenal is shown some ancient armour, including a suit attributed to the Em- peror Gunther. Inn, Weisser Hirsch, near Schwarzburg. Travellers should ascend the Tripstein, 1^ m. from the castle. There is a cross-road from Blankenburg to the ruins of the Abbey of PaulinzeUe, 9 m. distant. It was founded 1105, by Pauline, daughter of the cup-bearer of the Emperor Henry IV. It is finely situated in the depths of a forest. The church is a very inte- resting monument of the plain Byzan- tine or Romanesque style; date, the close of the 11th century ; the E. end is gone. Near the abbey are the monks’ fish pouds. 1 Saalfeld. — Inns ; Der Goldene Anker, one of the oldest inns in Ger- many; the Empr. Charles V. put up here along with his prisoner the Elector John Frederick, June 27.1547 ; Rau- tenkranz, in the suburb. & Saalfeld is a very ancient walled town, in the midst of the Thuringian forest, and contains 4800 inhab. The Rath- haus in the market-place is a venerable Gothic edifice. The Gothic Ch. of St. John was built 1212, out of funds pro- duced by the neighbouring gold mines of Reichmansdorf; the painted glass, and a colossal wooden statue of St. John in the interior, deserve mention. Near the town wall, at the side of the Saal, are the ruins of the Sorbenburg, a fort dating from the 8th century, built, according to tradition, to defend the frontier from inroads of the Slavic barbarians (the Serbians and Wends). The old Ducal Castle, also within the town, is now the Mint. In the suburb outside the walls is the more modern Chateau or Palace of the dukes of the extinct line of Saxe- Saalfeld, with fine gardens attached to it. The road now quits the hanks of the Saal, and begins to ascend the central ridge of the Thliringer Wald. The battle of Jena, so fatal to Prussia, began near Saalfeld. 2£ Grafenthal.—Inns: Post; Weisses Ross. Near this you have a fine view of Wespenstein, an old castle of the Pappenheims, in ruins. 3^ Sonnenberg. This little town of 3200 inhab. is chiefly remarkable for the peculiar manufacture of toys, dolls, boxes of various kinds, including pill- boxes, boot-jacks, chess-boards, and the endless variety of articles for the amusement of children which fill the toy-shops of every quarter of the globe, and are commonly called Dutch toys. There are several manufactories of papier mache, to make dolls’ heads, and of pipe heads; and one or two mills for grinding boys’ marbles. Hones for sharpening knives are prepared here out of a species of slate ; and there is also a quarry producing' slate-pencils, in the neighbourhood. Altogether the trade in toys is supposed to produce 400,000 fl. yearly. 2 Neustadt.—7/m, Halbe Mond. Coburg. (In Rte. 98.) ROUTE 94 a. WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD BY JENA, ALTENBURG, GERA. Posting, 1st day, to Altenburg, 68 Eng. m. in 11 h.; 2d day, to Carls- bad, 76f’Eng. m., in 13^- hrs. * This is a good post road through beautiful and richly cultivated coun- try, and may afford a variation of the journey to those acquainted with the usual route by Leipzig. The first part of the road traverses some singularly bare looking ravines, one of which leads down into the broad valley in which stands 1 ^ Jena. — Inn: Sonne. A dull, dingy, antiquated town, in a hollow surrounded by naked hills, having no- thing worth notice but its University, founded 1550,and numbering at present about 500 students. “ Groups of them, in falling collars not particularly clean, and flowing hair not remarkably glossy, may be seen swaggering about with foils, masks, and cudgels.”-—L. R. G. The University Museum is valuable to484 ' route 94 b.—erfurt to coburg. Sect. VII. students. The Garden of the Observa- tory was Schiller’s favourite resort while Professor of History, between 1789 and 1799, and he composed in it some of his poems. “ The road, somewhat narrow and very serpentine, but not bad, takes its course among clear streams and happy looking villages, and afterwards” through forests of pine, to 3 Kloster Launitz, a clean village inn. There is a new and better road from Jena to 3 Eisenberg. 2^ Gera {Inn, Reussischer Hof, very good), a picturesque, clean, and thriving modern town, of 11,000 inhab., on the Elster, belonging to the so- vereign princes of Reuss-Schleitz, and Ebersdorf. The Castle of the Prince of R. Ebersdorf, backed by hanging woods, rises over against the town, and adds much to its picturesque appearance. Roneburg, a small modern town and watering-place, is passed, and the road traverses a country not particularly in- teresting, abounding in mines. 14 Schmollen. Smelting-house. 2 Altenburg. — Inn, Stadt Gotha; good. (Seep. 478.) A Bailroad runs hence to Leipzig, and to Zwickau (p. 477.). Beyond this the road turns to the left, and enters upon the passage of the Erzgebirge. 2^ Schneeberg. Inns wretched. The road in places loose. Two severe hills occur, at one of which additional horses are put on. 2^ Wildenthal (a capital rural Inn), a neat village, where a good deal of dace is made and sold. After following for a long way a -wooded gorge, you at length emerge ■from the hills a little beyond 24 Neudeck, where the Austrian frontier is crossed, and you find your- self in the undulating valley of the Eger.—L. B. G. 24 Carlsbad,—in .Handbook South Germany. ' There is a road from Altenberg to Dresden by Rochletz, 3^. Waldheim, 2^. Nossen, 2£. Wilsdri/ff, 2. Dres- den, 2. Or by way of Freyberg to Penig, 2. Chemnitz, 3 (as in Rte. 90.). ROUTE 94 b. ERFURT TO COBURG. 15 Germ, m =69 Eng. m. A new road, but not furnished with post horses, connects Erfurt with Schleusingen on the road from Gotha to Coburg. The road is very pretty from Erfurt to Arnstadt---Inns: Die Henne; Der Greif. 5300 inhab. The Lieb- frauenkirche, a specimen of German architecture of the 12th and 13th cen- turies, displays peculiar sculpture on its exterior, and some interesting mo- numents within. The Schloss, formerly the residence of the Schwarzhurg fa- mily, descended, on the failure of that line, to the Sondershausen family. Of the old Schloss there only remains a tower, and some walls of 1554. [A new road(4f Germ. m. in length) has been opened between Arnstadt and Rudolstadt through a beautiful coun- try.] After leaving Arnstadt the road runs through a narrow valley amidst beechwood, and then rises, passing among fields, to 2\ Ilmenau. This town of 2700 inhab. belongs to Weimar. Here are mines of manganese and iron. Near it is Elgersburg, romantically situated, and an establishment for the cold-water- cure, under Dr. Fitzler. The road after leaving Ilmenau ascends for 2 m. to a height of 2500 ft., and then descends with many windings through a forest belonging to the King of Prussia to 4 Schleusingen_Inn, Griiner Baum. 3000 inhah. A town formerly belong- ing to the Counts of Henneberg, now to Prussia. The old castle of Bertholds- hurg, prettily situated on a hill, has heen repaired hy the King of Prussia. In the Stadtkirche are the tombs of the old Counts of Henneberg; and in the neighbourhood a suppressed Praemons- trant Abbey, an interesting monument of German architecture of the 12 th cent, ijj Hildburghausen. "I l| Rodach. I Route 92. 2£ Coburg. J485 SECTION VIII. NASSAU.— FRANKFURT. — HESSE DARMSTADT.— RHENISH BAVARIA.—BADEN.—AND THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. preliminary information. — 54. Money. — 55. Posting. ROUTE » PAGE 95. The Brunnen of Nassau. Coblenz to Frankfurt on the Main, by Ems, Schwalbach, Schlangenbad,and Wiesbaden 487 96. Giessen to Coblenz, and Descent of the Lahn from Weilburg to Limburg and Ems .... 506 97. The Taunus Mountains — Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by • Eppstein, Konigstein, and Homburg - - - 509 98. Bingen to Mayence by In- gelheim - - - * 512 99. Railway. Mayence to Frankfurt - - - 512 100. Vale of the Nahe—Bingen to Kreuznach and Saarbruck 513 101. Mayence to Metz - - 516 102. The Rhine (E.), Mayence to Worms, Mannheim,Spires, and Strasburg. — Rail. 517 ROUTE t PAGE 103. Mannheim to Treves - 526 104. Mannheim to Deux Ponts by Neustadt, Landau, and Annweiler - - - 527 105. Railway. Frankfurt to Basle by Darmstadt, The Bergstrasse, and Odenwald, Heidelberg, Carlsrulie, and Freiburg - 530 106. Branch Railway to Baden Baden - 547 107. To Strasburg, from the Ba- den Railway - - 554 108. Offenburg to Schaffhausen and Constance by the Kin- zig Thai, and Donaueschin- gen - - - - 558 109. Freiburg to Schaffhausen by the Hollenthal - - 562 110. Heidelburg to Wurzburg by Mosbach - - - 564 § 54. MONEY. In Nassau, Baden, Darmstadt, Frankfurt, &c., accounts are kept in Florins or Gulden. 1 Florin = Is. 8d., contains 60 kreutzers. 3 kr. = Id. Gold Coins (rare). FI. kr. Caroline (or French Louis d’Or) - - = 11 6 to 12. Ducat - - - - - = 5 24 to 36. The States of Southern and Western Germany, including Bavaria, Wiirtem- berg, Baden, Hesse and Frankfurt, have recently combined to issue a uniform coinage. (See § 32.) y 3486 COINS. POSTING. Sect. Yin. New Silver Coinage. Vereins Thaler = 3 Florins 30 kr. = 2 Prussian Dollars. Florin kr. = 60 = Is. 8d. =2 Fr. Francs 15 Cents. A Florin = 30 = lOd. Florin - = 15 = 5d. Pieces of 6 kr., 3 kr. or groschen, and 1 kr. Old Silver Coins. Crown, Kronthaler, or Brabant FI. kr. Thaler - - - = 2 42 = 4s. \^d. Pieces of two and one florin - = 3s. 4d. and Is. 8d. Zwanziger - - = O 24 = Os. 8d. (N.B. 2^ zwanzigers make 1 florin.) & Zwanziger - - - = 012 = Os. 4 R Schifferstadt Stat. j e‘ Bohl Stat. ** Hassloch Stat. Neustadt Stat. See Rte. 104. Be- yond-this the railway remains unfinished as far as Frankenstein, between which place and Neustadt there is a good road. From Frankenstein the railway runs through the valley of the Isenach to Kaiserslautern Stat. *j Landstuhl Stat. > See Rte. 101. Bruchmiihlbach Stat.J Not long after leaving Bruchmiihl- bach the road quits the Bavarian ter- ritory, and enters that of Prussia. 3^ St. Wendel. A small town : the interior of the church, near the Post, is worth a visit while changing horses. Beyond this the road is good, and the scenery pleasing, to 1£ Tholey. (An inn close to the Post, tolerable.) The scenery beyond this is very pleasing. The road, formerly bad in places, has been repaired. The ruinsRhenish Bavaria. rte. 104.—mannheim to zweibrucken. 527 of an old castle are seen on an elevation on the left, before reaching 2£ Wadern. Inn, Zum Kratz, a clean and comfortable village inn. There is an ascent on leaving Wadern ; and by a long descent over an Open country the road descends into 2£ Niederzerf. From this place the road again ascends for some distance, and then crosses a tract of open, bleak table land, until it begins a long wind- ing descent, during which beautiful views of Treves and the valley of the Moselle are obtained ; and passing the church of St. Mathias, enters 2j Treves. (Rte. 41.) ROUTE 104. MANNHEIM TO ZWEIBRUCKEN (DEUX fonts) through neustadt, LANDAU, AND ANNWEILER. 15 Germ. m.=72 Eng. m. Eilwagen daily from Spires by Lan- dau ; from Ludwigshafen several times a day to Diirkheim. Railway as far as Neustadt, opened in 1847 : this is part of the Railway through Kaiserslautern to Bexbach. (See Rte. 103.) The circle of the Rhine (Rhein Kreis') includes much pleasing scenery among the chains of the Haardt and Vosges mountains, and many old towns and castles, interesting from their history. The following route, not much traversed hitherto by English travellers, lays open some of the most interesting objects in this part of the country, and will conduct to the prison of Richard Coeur- de-Lion, an object of interest for all Englishmen. They must not expect, however, to meet with a good road, or very capital accommodation. If the traveller keeps the post road, he will follow that from Mannheim to Mayence as far as H Oggersheim, p. 520. 2 Diirkheim. — Inn, Vier Jahres- zeiten, good. This town, of5500 inhab., was once the residence of the Princes of Leiningen-Hartenburg, whose palace was burnt by the French, 1794; it was originally a strong fortress, but its works have long since been razed; it is now chiefly remarkable for its agree- able situation at the foot of the hills on the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- ach, up which runs the road to Kaisers- lautern, and for its pleasing environs. The chief beauties of the Rheinpfalz begin at Diirkheim, on the borders of the Haardtgebirge. The proper way —indeed the only one — to explore its heights and valleys is on foot; guided by a good map—such as Reizmann’s map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, price 15 Sgr. each. Within a short distance lie the salt works of PhillipshalL The summit of the nearest height, the Castanienberg, is crowned by the Heidenmauer (Pa- gan’s Wall), a rampart of loose stones 8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the base, enclosing a space of about 2 m. The Romans are said to have built it to keep in check the barbarians : and Attila is reported to have passed the winter in it, after having expelled the Romans, and when on his way to take possession of Rome itself. It has given a name to a novel of Cooper, the American. Near it is the Devil's Stone, a natural rock, bearing the im- pression of a gigantic paw, on which the pagans are said to have sacrificed. The view from it over the plain of the Palatinate, along the Rhine and Neckar as far as Heidelberg, and the near prospect of fertile and industrious val- leys, is highly pleasing. At the entrance of the Isenachthal, at the top of a hill nearly encircled by the stream, stand the ruins of the Abbey of Limburg, with its vast church, founded in 1030, in the style of the Dom of Spires, and destroyed by the Swedes in 1632. The height on which it stands commands fine views, and is now converted into gardens. A crypt and part of the cloister remain. Within sight of the ruins of the abbey are those of Hartenburg, the castle of the Counts of Leiningen. its greatest enemies, who were engaged ip constant feuds with the monks, and burnt the abbey in the 15th century. One of the Raugrafs of528 ROUTE 104.—NEUSTADT. LANDAU. Sect. VIII. Hartenburg having made the abbot his prisoner, built his head into the wall of the castle, with his face towards the abbey, that he might see the confla- gration. The road to Neustadt passes through Wachenheim, Forst, and Deidesheim, (Inn, Bairischer Hof), all famous for the wines produced in the neighbour- ing vineyards. It is a most delightful ride. Geologists will remark with in- terest the eruption of basalt, proceeding from the mountain called Pechstein- Kopf: the basalt assumes the shape of balls. 2 Neustadt an der Haardt. — Inns ; Post; Golden Lowe. This town of 8000 inhab. is old and uninviting within, but its situation, at the foot of the Haardt mountains is delightful. Its Church dates from the 10th cen- tury, and contains curious monuments of the Pfalzgraves. In the fore-court, called the Paradise, some remains of ancient fresco paintings may be traced. The neighbourhood abounds in ruined castles, many of which were reduced to their present condition in the Peasants’ War (1525). A railroad is in progress to the Rhine at Mannheim. On the hill above the town rise the ivy-clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen, called Haardter Schlosschen (originally the summer residence of the Electors Pa- latine, now attached to a modern villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War. It commands a fine view extending as far as Heidelberg castle. About 2 m. S. of the town is the Castle of Hambach, another ruin. It was built by the Emp. Henry IV., who is said to have set out from hence on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Rome bare- foot, in 1077, to appease the anger of the haughty pope Hildebrand. The view from the ruins is fine: but in- ferior to that firom the Madenberg. It now belongs to the present King of Bavaria, to whom it was presented on his marriage when Crown Prince, by the Rheinkreis. He is restoring and rebuilding it under the name of Max- burg. Near Neustadt very extensive quar- ries are excavated in the Bunter Sand- stein, and Muscliel Kalk; the latter abounds in fossils. The road passes Edenkoben (Inn, Schaaf, good), a town of 4500 inhab., surrounded by vineyards, producing a wine of inferior quality. Near at hand may be seen the church and tower of the ruined convent, Heils- bruck. 2 Landau.—Inns: Schwan ; Schaaf (Sheep). This strong fortress of the Germanic Confederation is occupied’by a garrison of Bavarians, and numbers 6000 inhab. It is situated on the Queicb, which fills its fosse with water. It has been an object of contest in every great European war from the 15th centy., and consequently its his- tory is nothing but a succession of sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap- tures, and surrenders. During the Thirty Years’ War it was taken 8 times, by the troops of Count Mansfeldt, by the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, and French. In the 17th centy. it fell into the hands of the French, was for- tified by Vauban, and was considered impregnable until 1702, when it was taken by Markgrave Lewis of Baden. From 1713 to 1815, it remained in the hands of the French. It stood a siege of 9 months in 1793, in the course of which 30,000 shells, &c., were thrown into it. In the following year the pow- der magazine blew up, and the bell of the Rathhaus was carried by the explo- sion as far as the village of Godramstein, where it was dug up in a meadow some years afterwards. The gates of the for- tress are shut at an early hour. An agreeable excursion may be made to the Madenberg, near Eschbacli ( Gun- ter’s Inn), the most perfect castle in the Rheinpfalz, which long was the property of the Archbishops of Spires, ruined by the French 1680. The view from it is the finest in the district. A guide should be engaged at Eschbach to cross the hills to Trifels, 6 m. to the E. The walk from it through the woods to Annweiler, taking Trifels by the way, is about 8 miles. A league from Landau, at Gleisweiler, is a hydro- therapic establishment ‘kept by Dr. Schneider.Rhenish Bavaria. ROUTE 104___ANNWEtLER. trifels. 529 The post-road from Landau to Zwei- brucken is good. It runs up the pretty valley of the Queich, a beautiful pass of the Vosges, to Annweiler____Inn, Post. This is a town of 2600 inhab., on the Queich. The ruined castle of Thifels, memo- rable as the prison of Richard Cceur-de- Lion, is 3 m. distant. It is now a total ruin ; one square tower alone remains in a tolerably perfect state to attest its former strength ; but the subterranean dungeon, in which, according to tra- dition, he was confined, and watched night and day by guards with drawn swords, is still pointed out. After being captured by his treacherous ene- my, Leopold of Austria, on his return from the Holy Land, Richard was sold by him for 30,000 marks of silver to the Emperor Henry VI., who basely de- tained him a prisoner from 1192 to 1194. It was probably beneath these walls that the song of the faithful min- strel Blondel first succeeded in dis- covering the prison of his master, by procuring the vocal response from the royal troubadour. In 1193 his shame- less jailor, the Emperor, brought Richard in chains before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge of the murder of Conrad of Montferrat, which he repelled with such manly and per- suasive eloquence, and proved so clearly his innocence, that the Diet at once acquitted him, and ordered his chains to be knocked off. In 1194 he was released from Trifels in consideration of a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. The castle of Trifels stands on the summit of a singular mountain of sandstone (Bunter Sandstein) called the Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- level. It was a favourite residence of the German emperors, and must have been a place of great magnificence as well as strength. Frederick Barba- rossa, and many of his predecessors and successors, held their court here, and the regalia of the empire were depo- sited within its walls for security. It was also used as a state prison for many unfortunate captives besides Richard of England. It has remained a ruin ever since the Thirty Years’War, when it was taken by the Swedes; but it has something imposing even in its present state. The walls of the donjon are very thick, and 40 feet high. The chapel has been stripped, and the mar- ble pillars removed from it to the church of Annweiler. An agreeable path leads up from the town to the castle, an hour’s walk, whence the view is very pleasing; two of the neigh- bouring heights are also crowned with castles. Annweiler contains nothing remark- able, but the scenery of the valley of the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should not be left unseen. The scenery be- tween Annweiler and Dahn is particu- larly interesting, from the extraordinary forms assumed by the sandstone rocks (Bunter Sandstein), which have been split and fissured in all directions. At Willgartswiesen (Inn, Lamm; good and cheap) is a pretty new Ch. with twin towers. A walk of 2 hours by Hauenstein, with a guide, brings you to Dahn (7n«, Ritter St. Georg), neat which rises the overhanging rock called Jungfernsprung. Dahn may be visited by a slight detour on the way to Pirmasens; the distance is about 15 miles. 2 Kaltenbach. 1^ Pirmasens (Inn, Lamm), a town of 5000 inhab. 2£ Zweibriicken (French, Deux Ponts). — Inns: Post; — Z weibriicker Hof. A town of 7300 inhab., in a: very picturesque situation, once the capital of the Duchy of Zweibriicken, or Deux Ponts. The dukes resided in the Palace, partly destroyed by the French, and the remains now converted into a Catholic church. The name of this place is supposed to be derived from the two bridges leading across the river Erbach to the palace. The Princi- pality once belonged to the crown of Sweden; but fell by inheritance to the King of Bavaria, to whom it now be- longs. The series of the Classics known as “ The Bipont Edition ” was printed here by a society of learned men in 1779. Eilwagen daily to Carlsruhe. A A530 ROUTE 105.—FRANKFURT TO BASLE. Sect. VIII. Zweibriicken is 1 ^ Germ. m. distant from Homburg, which is on the high road from Mayence to Metz, and the present terminus of the Mannheim and Bexbach railway. (Rte. 101.) ROUTE 105. FRANKFURT TO BASLE BY DARMSTADT, HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUHE, AND FREI- BERG. -RAILWAY. From Frankfurt to Heidelberg and Mannheim in 3 hours, by the Main- Neckar Eisenbahn. — Distance from Frankfurt to Friedrichsfeld Junction Station- on the Mannheim and Hei- delberg line, 10£ Germ. m. =52^ Eng. miles. Heidelberg to Eftingen, 8 m. from Basle, in 9 hours, by the Badische Staatsbahn.—Distance from Mannheim to Leopoldshohe, on the frontier of the canton of Basle (to which point the railway will soon be opened) 34 Germ. m=l58f Eng. m. Terminus in Frankfurt outside the Gallus Thor. The line crosses the Main at Frank- furt by a new bridge, and passes 1. on the height the watch-tower of Sachsen- hausen, whence the view over Frank- furt, the Main, the distant Taunus, and the immediate foreground of neat villas and vineyards, is very pleasing. At Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach turns off to the E. Langen Stat. The country, as far as Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. Darmstadt St at. — Inns : Darm- stadter Hof; — Traube (Bunch of Grapes). Kohlers, near the railway station, outside the Rheinthor, is a handsome building. Darmstadt, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, the residence of the Grand Duke, and seat of the government and chambers, has a population of 30,000 (chiefly Protestants). It is a dull, uninteresting town, which need not detain the traveller long. The appear- ance of torpidity is increased by the extent of surface over which it is spread. The streets are straight and very wide, the squares numerous ; and many of the houses are built singly, with intervals between them. The old town, with its dark and confined streets, is very properly kept in the background, and none of the great thoroughfares pass through it. Near the end of the Rheinstrasse, leading from the railway, rises a column, 134 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of the Grand Duke Louis, by Schwanthaler. The Catholic Church, built by Moller, a native architect, is worth notice. Its exterior is of brick ; the interior, a ro- tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. high, surrounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, is imposing, though simple. The Grand Duke lives in a New Palace of no great architectural preten- sions, next door to the Traube Hotel. A red Doric column, in the midst of the square, is surmounted by a statue of the late Grand Duke Louis I., modelled by Schwanthaler. The Old Palace (Alte Schloss) has been fitted up as a residence for the Hereditary Grand Duke (Erb-Gross Herzog). It is a structure of various ages, from the 16th to the 18th ; still surrounded by a dry ditch, now con- verted into a shrubbery and garden. It contains likewise the Museum of Paint- ings and of Natural History. Among the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, the following seem best worth notice:— The Purification of the Virgin, by William of Cologne; sometimes called William Calf, a rare master.—Schoreel, the Death of the Virgin.—L. Cranacht portrait of Albert of Brandenburg, Archbp. of Mayence, as St. Jerome with his lion ; and of Luther and his Wife.—Portraits of Louis XIV. and XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lee- zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal Fleury, and Madame du Barry, by French artists. — In the Dutch School; Schalken, portrait of William III. of England____Vandyk, Virgin and Child j sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem- broke.—P. Potter (?), Cow and Herd, with a horn.—Eckhout, a Man’s Head. — Teniers, Peasants. — P. de Hooge, Dutchman and his Wife.— Rembrandt, portrait of his Second Wife.—ItalianH. Darmstadt, route 105.—darmstadt. odenwald. 531 School: P.' Veronese, sketch of the great picture in the Louvre of the Marriage in Cana.— Titian (?), a Venus (doubt- ful).— Velazquez, a Child in a white frock.—Domenichino, David - and Na- than.— Raphael (?), St. John in the Wilderness, varying slightly from the paintings of the same subject at Flo- rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by a modern German artist, Steinbruck. There is some very curious painted glass in this gallery, and numerous an- tique ivory carvings, enamels, &c. ‘‘ In the Collection of Coins are many of the thin and barbarous Bracteatae of the middle ages.”— F. S. Museum of Natural History. The most valuable and interesting part of this collection are the fossils, found in the neighbourhood of the Rhine, such as remains of the whale and elephant, some from the bed of the Rhine : seve- ral very perfect skulls, and numerous other bones of rhinoceros from Oppen- heim : of Sus antiquus and Mastodon from Eppelsheim: numerous perfect jaws and other remains of the JDeinothe- rium; an extinct amphibious animal, equalling the elephant in size, and feeding like the Dugong upon herbs and weeds growing in. the water. These unequalled specimens were found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near Alzey, along with marine shells. The fossils of this Museum have been de- scribed in a work published by Dr. Kaup. The Palace also contains a good Public Library of 200,000 vols.; the inhabitants of the town are allowed to take books home. The Theatre (Hof-Opernhaus), near the Palace, was built in 1819 from the designs of Moller. Near the theatre is the Exercier Haus (Drilling House), a sort of large riding-school. It was built for the purpose of drilling the garrison under cover in bad weather, and is re- markable for the great size of its roof, 157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long; con- structed, it is said, by a common car- penter, after architects of pretension bad declared the task impossible. The building now serves as a depot for artillery. The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, or Herrngarten) are very prettily laid out, but sadly neglected; one lofty white poplar is remarkable ; within them is the grave of Margravine Henrietta Caroline; great-grandmother of the present king of Prussia. The spot was chosen by herself in her lifetime, and Frederick the Great engraved upon her urn the words, “ Sexu fcemina, ingenio vir.” The landlord of the inn will intro- duce the traveller to the Casino club. The House of Commons of the duchy assembles under the same roof, and at particular seasons, balls, concerts, and assemblies take place in it. There is very little commerce at Darmstadt; the inhabitants depend in a great measure on the court. A mile or two out of the town is the preserve, where wild boars are kept for the ducal chasse. Strangers are often taken in the evening to see the animals fed. Eilwagen daily to Mayence(4j Germ, m. in hrs.), by Gross-Gerau, cross- ing the Main by a ferry opposite Castel. Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this (1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. The picturesque district called the Odenwald (forest of Odin) begins a few miles S. of Darmstadt, not far from this station. It lies to the E. of the railroad, and of the high road to Heidelberg, and some of its most inter- esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- cus, may be visited on the way thither. To explore it thoroughly 2 days would be required ; and the route from Darm- stadt by Rheinheim (2 Germ. m.) to Erbach (3 Germ, m.) is usually taken. The entire excursion may not suit the taste or convenience of all travellers; but the ascent of the Melibocus mountain should be omitted by none, as it cannot fail of affording gratification by its fine panoramic view. The railroad for the greater part of the way, runs near the old post road from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which is celebrated for its beauty. It is called a a 2 -532 ROUTE 105.—ODENWALD. MELIBOCUS. Sect. VIII. Bergstrasse (mountain road, from the Latin strata moniana, although, in fact, perfectly level), because it runs along the base of a range of hills, which form the E. boundary of the valley of the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises from the fertility and high cultivation of the district it overlooks, rich in its luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, and bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains in France. (1.) The wooded and vine-covered range of mountains, with their old castles, form- ing the boundary of the Odenwald, runs parallel with the railroad and at a short distance from it. (rt.) Stretches a vast sandy flat, through which the Rhine wanders, bounded by the heights of Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges at 50 or 60 miles distance. The villages and towns are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, overhung by vine-covered slopes, and embosomed in orchards, which extend in cheerful avenues along the road from one town to another. “ Almost every mountain of the Bergstrasse, and many of those in the Odenwald, are crowned by a castle; which, embosomed in the •woods of beech, or surrounded by vineyards, adds the interest of its anti- equity and chivalrous associations, to the .charms of the landscape.” — Autumn near the Rhine. Zwingenberg Stat. close under the woody Melibocus. Those who wish to ascend the Meli- bocus, should leave the railroad here (7nw, Lowe). Take refreshments with you — none are to be had above, and ask for the key of the tower. The visit, including ascent and descent by Schloss Auerbach, the best way to return to the road, occupies 3 hours’ walking. The tower alone commands the view on the side of the Odenwald, over its forest-clad hills; the keys are kept at Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole excursion to the Melibocus, Felsberg, Felsenmeer, and through the valley of •Schonberg back to Auerbach and Zwingenberg occupies about 6 hours. The Melibocus, or Malchen, is a conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris feet above the sea : it is the highest of the Odenwald chain of hills, and is conspicuous far and wide, on account of the white tower on its top, erected 1772, as a Belvedere. The view from it is most extensive, owing to the vast ex- panse of flat in the valley of the Rhine below. “ The more distant objects are, Spires, and Mannheim with its slated dome to the left ; Worms and its Go- thic cathedral, opposite; and the dark towers of Mayence, lower down. The tower is built on the very edge of the declivity. The smoking villages, the gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be- neath us. We traced the course of the Rhine, which now gleamed in the bright sun, and appeared little removed from the base of the mountain, from above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a distance of nearly 60 English miles. At Bingen it loses itself in the deflies of the Rheingau mountains, which bound the view on that side. The course of the placid Neckar and its junction with the Rhine are very visi- ble, as also that of the Main. By the help of a good telescope, in a clear day you may distinguish the tower of Stras- burg cathedral, at a distance of above 100 Eng. m. Towards the North, the view reaches the mountains in the neighbourhood of Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To the East lies the Odenwald, over the chaotic wooded hills of which the prospect stretches as far as the vicinity of Wiirtzburg — a distance of 60 or 70 m. ; while on the West, across the Rhine, the eye ranges ever the smooth plain, till it is bounded by the blue broken tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges mountains, at a nearly equal distance.”—Autumn near the Rhine. [Those who intend to extend their walk through the Odenwald continue by a convenient path to another moun- tain, the Felsberg, 3 m. off*, surmounted by a hunting-lodge (Jiigerhaus), which also commands a fine view. The valley which separates it from the Melibocus is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. A little way from the Jiigerhaus, on the declivity of the hill, by the side ofH. Darmstadt, route 105.—odenwald. erbach. 533 the path leading to Reichenbach, lies j the Riesensaule ( Giant’s Column), a gi- ; gantic column of hard syenite, similar to the rock of which the mountain is composed, and without doubt quar- ried on the spot; it is about 30 feet long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper- ing towards one end. Its origin and use are unknown, but it must be of great antiquity. Not far off lies a vast block of the same stone, called Riesenaltar, bearing on it incisions and marks of the saw. The appearance of these vestiges of human power and art in the depths of a sequestered forest is peculiarly striking, and not easily ac- counted for. Some have supposed that they are of German origin, and were intended to form part of a temple of Odin. It is more probable that they are the work of Roman artificers, during the time they were established in this part of Germany, which was included in the Agri Decumates. It was at one time proposed to erect the column on the field of Leipzic, as a monument of that victory — a project more easily started than executed. The Felsenmeer (Sea of Rocks) is a singular accumulation of fragments of syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon one another, and extending from near the top of the Felsberg almost to Reichenbach. They are of the same kind of rock as the mountain itself, so cannot have been transported from a distance. They appear like an avalanche of stones, hurled L>y some convulsion of nature from the summit. From this point again the traveller has the choice either of returning to Zwingenberg Station, byway of Reich- enbach and Auerbach, or of proceeding on to Erbach. — About 18 m. from Auer- bach, along a tolerable road, passing through Schoenberg, Reichenbach, the hill of Winterkasten, and Reichels- lieim, lies Erbach (Inn, Post). This small town is situated in a narrow valley overlooked by high rocks, composed of the new red sandstone (Bunter Sandstein) and muschelkalk of geologists. The Castle of the Counts of Erbach, | a modern building, erected on the site ; of an ancient baronial residence, the greater part of which, except the donjon tower, was removed in the last century, contains a very interesting Armoury, highly deserving of a visit. There are many suits, arranged, some on horseback, in the attitude of the tournament, others on foot. The history of every one is known ; many have belonged to ancestors of the family, others have been worn by robber knights (Raubritter), not a few of whom expiated their crimes on the wheel or scaffold, Those which have a more general historical interest are, the suits of Philip the Good of Bur- gundy, the Emp. Frederick III., Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia- como Medici, Markgrave Albert of Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus and Wallenstein. The two last, with many other suits in the collection, were brought from the arsenal at Nurem- berg. Here is besides the panoply of Franz of Sickingen, and his friend Goetz of Berlichingen, with the iron hand, brought from Heilbronn, and a small suit made for Thomele, the dwarf of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, and worn by him on some festive occa- sion when he was presented in a pie to the company seated at table. There are other curiosities in the castle, such as fire-arms of various periods, painted glass, antiques, vases, &c. ; in short, it is highly worthy of a visit from strangers. In the chapel are the coffins in which Eginhard, secretary and son- in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith- ful Emma his wife, were buried ; they were removed from the church in Seli- genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an ancestor of the Erbach family. Erbach is connected by a post road, not very good, with Darmstadt; the distance is Germ. m. There is also a way from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beerfelden and Eberbach on the Nec- kar, from whence the descent of that river may be made in a boat, or the road along the banks may be followed. About 9 m. N. W. from Erbach, between Reichelsheim and Bilstein, and near the former place, in a wild and a a 3ROUTE 105.—THE BERGSTRASSE. Sect. VIII. 534 secluded mountain district, surrounded by forests, lies the Castle of Rodenstein, the seat of the singular superstition of the wild J'dger, the Knight of Roden- stein, who, issuing from out the ruined walls of the neighbouring castle of Schnellert, his usual abode, announces the approach of war by traversing the air with a noisy cavalcade, to the castle of Rodenstein, situated on a solitary mountain opposite. “ The strange noises heard on the eve of battles are authenticated by affidavits preserved in the village of Reichelshein; some are of so recent a date as 1743 and 1796, and there are persons who profess to have been convinced by their eyes as well as their ears. In this manner the people assert that they were fore- warned of the victories of Leipzic and Waterloo. If the spectral host return at once to Schnellert, nothing mate- rial occurs ; but if the huntsman tarry with his train, then some momentous event, threatening evil and calamity to Germany, is expected by the people to occur. The flying army of Roden- stein may probably be owing to a simple cause. The power of the wind is very great, and its roar singularly solemn and sonorous in these vast districts of forest. In the pine forests it some- times tears up thousands of trees in a night.”—Autumn near the Rhine. The legend of the Wild Huntsman has been attributed, with some proba- bility, to another cause—the passage at night of vast flocks of the larger birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &c., through the air in their annual migra- tions. The rustling of so many wings, and the wild cries of the fowl, heard in the darkness of night, and in the solitude of the forest, may easily have furnished the superstitious peasant with the idea of the aerial huntsman and bis pack. Since the dissolution of the German empire, the spectre, it is said, has given up his nocturnal chase; at least, the inhabitants of the farm-house standing directly under the Rodenstein have not, for many years, been dis- turbed by noise or sight that can be traced to a ghostly origin. There is a road from Reichelsheim by Fiirth to Weinheim Stat. on the Bergstrasse.] The Railroad runs nearly parallel with the Bergstrasse. from Darmstadt to Weinheim, where it diverges to cross the Neckar at Ladenburg, be- yond which it joins the railroad be- tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half way between those towns. On the 1. not far beyond the Zwin- genberg Station lies Auerbach. (Inns: Krone (Crown), good; — Rose), one of the prettiest villages on the Bergs- trasse. It is sometimes resorted to as a watering-place, on-account of a min- eral spring in the neighbourhood. In the village itself there is nothing re- markable; but it is worth while to explore the beauties of its neighbour- hood. A gradual ascent, practicable for a light char, leads past the Brunnen to the ruins of the Castle of Auerberg, one of the most picturesque in the Odenwald, 2 m. from the village. It was dismantled by the French under Turenne, 1674, and time is fast com- pleting the work of destruction begun by man ; one of its tall slender towers fell in 1821, and the other threatens to follow it. The hill on which it stands is composed of granite and gneiss. A shady and easy path conducts from the ruins to the Melibocus; guides and mules are to be hired by those who re- quire them, and carriages can safely ascend. A little S. of Auerbach, is a hillock in the middle of a field, called Landberg, upon which, in ancient times the Burggraves of Starkenburg held, in the open air, their tribunal called Gaugericht. Bensheim Stat. — Inn, Sonne. A town of 4000 inhab., with a new church in the round style, built by Moller. About 3 m. W. of Bensheim, off the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch, the oldest Gothic edifice in this part of Germany. A fragment of a portico, which served as an entrance into the original church, consecrated in 774, in the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, and two sons, still exists. The rest of the building is of the 11th cent., andBaden. ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG. 535 exhibits a specimen of the debased Roman style. A part of the building, at present used as a storehouse for fruit, dates from 1090. Lorsch is now only interesting to the antiquarian and architect. The holy monks who founded the abbey not only spread ci- vilisation and religion through the sur- rounding country, but redeemed it from the state of a wilderness, like the back-woods of America, and brought it under cultivation. In process of time, the priory surpassed in wealth and extent of possession many bishop- rics and principalities. Duke Thassilo of Bavaria, deposed by Charlemagne, for treason, ended his days here as a monk. Heppenheim Stat. — Inn, Halbe Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, and wine of the country. This small town of 3700 inhab., like most others on the Bergstrasse, has an an- cient and decayed appearance, but is prettily situated. The church was built by Charlemagne. On a com- manding height behind rise the towers of Starkenbury Castle, built 1064 by the abbots of Lorsch as a defence against the attacks of the German Emperors. It afterwards belonged to the Arch- bishops of Mayence, who considered it their strongest fortress, and maintained a garrison in it down to the time of the Seven Years’ War. It was taken by the Spaniards under Cordova (1621), by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol- phus (1631), and was.twice fruitlessly besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). The ascent—half an hour’s drive by a rough road—from Heppenheim is not very difficult, and is well repaid by the beautiful view. The ground round these picturesque ruins is tastefully laid out in a garden. A post road runs from Heppenheim through Lorsch and Burstadt to Worms, 2j£ Germ m. A little way out of Heppenheim the railroad crosses the frontier of Darm- stadt into Baden. Heinsbach Stat. Near here, is the country seat of M. Rothschild of Frankfurt, surmounted , by 2 towers. He has large estates here. Weinheim Stat. — (/nns: Der Karlsberg, near the Post; Pfalzer Hof, near the bridge on the Weschnitz) is an ancient town, surrounded by towers and a ditch; it lies on the Weschnitz, and has 4900 inhab., whose wealth consists in the orchards and vineyards around. The best wine of the Berg- strasse is the Hubberger, which grows near Weinheim. Above the town is the castle of Windeck, remarkable for its cylindrical donjon tower. The Railroad beyond Weinheim takes a bend to the S. W. away from the Bergstrasse, and makes direct for the Neckar. Gross Sachsen Stat. Beyond this Ladenburg Stat., a town with walls and towers, and a handsome church (St. Gallus) on the rt. bank of the Neckar, which the Railway here crosses by a fine bridge. Friedrichsfeld Stat.—Junction here with the Railway from Mannheim to Heidelberg, from which places this sta- tion is nearly equally distant. Schwet- zingen Gardens are l^m. off (p. 522.) ; the ruined castle of Strahlenberg, above the town of Schriessheim, may be dis- cerned on the left. Heidelberg Stat.— Inns : P. Karl, in the market-place nearest to the castle, good, table-d’hote good ; — Bad- ischer Hof; — Hotel Ernst, near the railway terminus; — H. Bellevue, near the station, comfortable:—H. de Hol- lande, near the bridge, good; — Schwar- zer Adler (Aigle Noir). If pressed for time, you may walk in ^ hour from the railway to the Klingel- thor, thence along the inside of the town wall in ^ hour to the Castle; returning by the footpath into the Carlsplatz, and through the town back to the Railway. From the great Ch. a street leads N. in 5 minutes to the Bridge, which is a fine point of view. The beauty of the Bergstrasse has been perhaps exaggerated; that of Heidelberg cannot be too much ex- tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the left bank of the Neckar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle rock. It is almost limited to a single street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Rail- way Stat. to the Heilbronngate. It a a 4536 ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY. Sect. VIII. has 13,500 inhab. Few towns in Europe have experienced to a greater «xtent, or more frequently, the horrors of war, than the ill-starred Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty Years’ War, it displayed in its buildings all the splendour arising from flourishing com- merce and the residence of the court of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. It has been five times bombarded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice taken by as- sault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of the Thirty Years’ War), the ferocious Tilly took the .town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment of nearly a month, and gave it up to be sacked for S days together. The garrison retreated into the castle, headed by an Englishman named Herbert; but the death of their commander, who was shot, compelled them to surrender in a few days. The imperial troops retained possession of the place for 11 years; after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be preferred as friends to the Imperialists as foes. But Heidelberg was destined to suffer far worse evils from the French. In 1674, the Elector, Charles Louis, incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV.; and a French army, ■under Turenne, was-in consequence let loose upon the Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and desolation before it. The Elector beheld with distress, from the castle in which he had shut himself up, the inroads of foreign troops, and flame and smoke rising up along the plain from burning towns and villages. Unable to oppose the French with equal force at the head of an army, but anxious to avenge the wrongs of his country, he resolved, in a spirit which some may deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to endeavour to end the contest with his own sword. Accord- ingly he sent a cartel to Marshal Tu- renne, challenging him to single combat. The P'rench general returned a civil answer, but did not accept it. The ambition of Louis XIV. led him, on the death of the Elector, to lay claim to the Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans; and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and burnt, 1688, by Melac, a general whose brutality and cruelty surpassed that of Tilly. But it was at the following siege under Chamilly, in 1693, that it was reserved for the French to display the most merciless tyranny, and practise excesses worthy of fiends rather than man, upon the town and its inhabitants, paralleled only in the French Revolution, and which will ever render the name of Frenchman odious in the Palatinate. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious intolerance, and no mercy was shown to the Pro- testants. On this occasion the castle was entirely ruined. The University, founded 1386, is one of the oldest in Germany : the number of students is about 700. It is as a school of law and medicine that Hei- delberg is most distinguished. Many of the professors at the present time are men of great reputation : Gmelin, distinguished in natural history and chemistry; Tiedemann, in anatomy ; Paulus, in theology ; Mittermeyer, in criminal law. Gervinus and Schlosser reside here in retirement. As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square (Lud- wigs Platz) near the middle of the town. The Library, in a building by itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be- sides MSS. A portion of the famous Palatine Library, which was carried off’ by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years’ War, and sent to the Vatican as a present'to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidelberg, by Pope Pius VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 890 in number, relate principally to German history. It is related, that Tilly, being in want of straw after taking the castle, littered his cavalry with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of theBaden. ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG. MUSEUM. 537 most valuable in Europe. The cu- riosities of this collection as it at present stands are, a Codex of the Greek Anthology, 11th century; MSS. of Thucydides and Plutarch, of the 10th and 11th, and many autographs of remarkable persons ; Luther’s MS. translation of Isaiah; his Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress Elizabeth (James I.’s daughter); a Mass-book, ornamented with miniatures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The library is freely open to all persons for 2 hours daily, except on Sundays. The Anatomical and Zoological Mu- seums are placed in a building in the suburb, formerly a Dominican convent. Several professors have good Private Collections; the best are Creuzers’ ca- binet of antiquities ; Leonhard’s fossils and minerals, particularly rich in spe- cimens illustrative of the geology of this part of Germany ; and Professor Bronn’s fossils of the neighbourhood of Heidelberg. There is also a dealer in minerals, the produce of the neigh- bouring district, at No. 211. Schiff- gasse. The Museum Club (§ 44.), opposite the University, contains reading, ball, and concert rooms, well supplied with ' papers and journals. Neither the public nor private build- ings in the town are at all remarkable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destruction caused by repeated sieges. One house, however, survives, which in the richly decorated facade ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c., may give some notion of former splendour; it is the inn called Zum Ritter, from the figure of a knight on the top: it was built in 1592. It stands in the market-place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and counts palatine were buried. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 1793, when neither reverence for the dead nor the sacredness of the building prevented it becoming tbe scene of slaughter and sacrilege. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Protestants, and the two services are performed under the same roof. The resistance of the townspeople to one of the electors, who wanted to deprive the Protestants of their half of this church, occasioned him to remove the Electoral court from Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1719-20. The Ch. of St. Peter' is remarkable as being the oldest in the town, and because Jerome of Prague, the compa- nion of Huss, attached to its door his celebrated theses, which he maintained, at the same time expounding the Re- formed doctrines, to a large multitude of hearers assembled in the adjoining churchyard. Here also is the simple tomb of Olympia Morata, who com- bined the feminine grace and beauty of a woman with the intellect and learning of a philosopher. Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length set- tled at Heidelberg, where she delivered lectures to a large and admiring au- dience. Her extraordinary acquirer ments in learning, her beauty, misfor- tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave. The objects of greatest interest here: are: the Castle, and the views of the Rhine and Neckar valley. The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building displays the work of various- hands, the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries r it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural magnificence which it still displays, after having been three times burnt, and having ten times experienced the horrors of war. Its final ruin, however, did not arise from those causes; but after the greater part of the building had been restored to its former splen- dour in 1718-20, it was set on fire by lightning in 1764: and since the total A a 5538 ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG CASTLE. Sect. VIII. conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is at pre- sent only a collection of red stone walls, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It is approached by a carriage road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest part remaining is probably that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the portcullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector, who built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration: its facade to the south is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the Electoral family from Charlemagne. The part of the building most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design and the elegance of its decorations, is that which over- looks the river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle (g in the plan), built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style called cinque-cento, which is allied to the Elizabethan of England. The statues of heroes from sacred and profane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no means contemptible as works of art. The English traveller will view with some interest that part of the castle called the English Palace (s'), from its having been built for the re- ception of the Princess . Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James I., and grand-daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal arch (q), having pillars entwined with ivy leaves, was erected by her husband, the Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bo- hemia, to celebrate their nuptials ; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Eliza- bethen Pforte. “ When her husband hesitated to ac- cept the crown of Bohemia, this high- hearted wife exclaimed, ‘ Let me rather eat dry bread at a king’s table than feast at the board of an elector : ’ and it seemed as if some avenging demon hovered in the air to take her literally at her word; for she and her family lived to eat dry bread—ay, and to beg it before they ate it; but she would be a queen.”—Mns. Jameson. The granite pillars supporting the canopy of the well (w) in the corner of the court of the castle are said by some to have been brought from Charlemagne’s pa- lace at Ingelheim, though they are un- doubtedly derived from the quarry in the Odenwald. (Seep. 533.) In a cellar under the castle (e,f) is the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 1751; it is the largest wine cask in the world, 36 ft. long, and 24 ft. high; being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, or 283,200 bottles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of one of the porter vats of a London brewer. In former days, when the tun was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more than half a century. One of the towers which formed the outer defences of the Castle (der Gesprengte Thurm) (p), was undermined and blown up by the French; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the ex- plosion, instead of crumbling to pieces it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still remains. Subterranean pas- sages, for the most part still preserved and accessible, extend under the ram- parts. The Gardens (originally laid out by the engineer Solomon de Caus) and Shrubberies round the castle, and the adjoining Terrace, to the eastward, afford the most agreeable walks and splendid points of view it is possible to conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of its vine-clad valley, and winding through a plain of the utmost fertility to join the Rhine, which appears here and there in distant flashes glittering in the sun. Spires and towers pro- claim the existence of cities and villagesBaden. ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG. 539 4i a a. Footpath leading up to the Castle. t. Carriage Road. •c. Platform or Terrace. d. Building of Frederick IV. (1607). The statues in the facade are ancestors of the reigning house of Bavaria, from Charlemagne «nd Otho of Wittelsbach. e. Cellar containing the Tun. f. Entrance to it. g. Building of Otho Henry, or Ritter Saal, begun 1556, finished 1559. This is the finest portion of the Castle ; it is in the best style of Italian architecture, and the sculpture tvhich it is decorated is of high merit. Octagon' :ning whic ack b ‘ower (1525), first struc lightning which finally consumed the Castle in by the .stle in ». Library Tower. A. Frederick Second’s Buildings (1549). l. Oldest part of the Castle, begun in 1300 by the Elector Rudolph. m. Rupert’s Building, begun 1400. n. Well, under a Canopy supported by pil- lars brought from Ingelheim (of Odenwald granite). o. Grand Gateway (1355), with Portcullis. p. The Blown-up Tower. H- The Gate raised in honour of the English Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I.: her great-grandson was George I. r. The Garden. The English Building erected for the cess Elizabeth by her husband the Elector Frederick IV. (1607). t. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. 1533. Its walls are 22 feet thick. It was destroyed by the French, 1689. A A 6540 ROUTE 105.—HEIDELBERG; Sect. VIII. almost without number, and the land- scape is bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains. The best general View of the Castle may be obtained from the extremity of the terrace raised upon arches, and projecting over the Neckar. The building, however, is so grand anobject, and the surrounding country so ex- ceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it from one point. He should mount the heights on the right bank of the Neckar, either by a path leading from the end of the bridge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Neuenheim. An agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which stands in the angle between the valley of the Rhine and Neckar, called the Heiligeberg, presents a more extensive prospect. On the top are ruins of a castle and church of St. Michael, which succeeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 1391, the wild sect called Flaggellants made a pilgrimage to this holy mountain, clad in black, and’ wearing a white cross in front and behind. In the Thirty Years’ War, Tilly opened his trenches to bom- bard the town from this point. About 50 yards above the bridge, on the right bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students’ duels are fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place in a day; and it is no uncommon thing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the course of 4 or 5 years. The Konigstuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies behind the town and castle. The summit may be reached in 1 or 1^ hour's walk, or in a carriage, and the view is the most extensive in the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has been erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair hither to see the sun rise, and if possible to extend the limits of the panorama, which in- c udes the valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Moun- tains on the W., the. Taunus on the N.W., the ridge of the Black Forest on the S., with the Castle of Eberstein- berg, near Baden, and the spire of Strasburg Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack from the right bank had failed : remains of his trenches are still visible. There is a small tavern near the top, called Kohlhof, where persons anxious to see the sun rise sometimes pass the night previously. The banks of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions — one of the most agreeable being to Neckar- gemiind (Inn, Pfalz), 6 m. off; the excursion may be agreeably prolonged to Neckar Stcinach, on the rt. bank (Inn, Die Harfe). The course of the Neckar is described in the Handbook for S. Germany. (Rte. 158.) A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs from the castle along the shoulder of the hill to the Wolf's Brunnen, an agreeable walk of 2 m. It is a pretty retired nook, named from a spring which rises there. There is. a small inn close to it, famed for its beer and trout (kept in great humbers, and fattened in ponds and tanks; many of them attain a large size). Here, ac- cording to tradition, th$ enchantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, and first foretold the greatness of the house of the Palatinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. You may return hence to Heidelberg by the road, along the margin of the river. At Handschuhsheim, about 2 m. on the road to Darmstadt, is one of the most extensive collections in Europe of Mexican Antiquities, belonging to Herr Uhde. The cherries of Dossenheim, a vil- lage about 2 m. beyond Handschult- sheim, on the Bergstrassc, are sent by steam-boats to the London market. At the village of Neuenheim, which is on the rt. bank of the Neckar, nearly opposite to the railway station, in a house that goes by the name of Monch- hof, according to an obscure tradition, Luther was lodged when he passed through Heidelberg in 1518. The Gardens of Schwetzingen, areBaden. ROUTE 105.—CARLSRUHE. 541 1^ Germ. m. from the Friedrichsfeld Stat. of the Mannheim railway, (p.522.) Droskies may be hired for excursions in and around the town. Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi- dence, provisions being moderate and abundant. An English gentleman, who resided here in 1834, states his expenses for the year to have been but 380/., including horses, carriage, house-rent, and servants. Eilwagen, daily, to Heilbronn in 7 firs., to Stuttgard in 12, and to Wiirz- burg in 1.5 (Rte. 110.). Railways :—to Mannheim ; trains in 35 minutes, stopping at Friedrichsfeld, which is the junction station of the Frankfurt and Darmstadt railway; — to Carlsruhe; and Baden by Oos, in 31 hours; — to Basle;—to Frankfurt. Steamboats on the Neckar to Heil- bronn, in 10 hours, descending in 6^. See Handbook S. Germany. The Baden Railway. — Heidelberg to Basle, with Jiranches to Baden-Baden, and Kehl (opposite Strasburg). Trains to Carlsruhe in 2 hrs.; Baden 3J hrs. ; Kehl in 5 hrs.; to Freiberg in 7 hrs.; Efringen, 8 in. from Bale, in 9 hrs. The 2d class carriages are commodious, with stuffed seats, and quite respec- table. St. Ilgen Stat. The country to the S. of Heidelberg scarcely retains, any trace of the beauty of the Bergstrasse, but the line is carried through a flat but. fertile coun- try, with a range of hills to the east- ward. Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large build- ing called Kisslau was formerly a Ducal Palace, but is now a state prison. Langenbriieken Slat. — Inn, Post. Here are sulphur baths. The establish- ment is well managed ; the house large, commodious, and well furnished. There is a table-d’hbte and music, as usual at German watering-places. (§ 41.) The temperature of the springs ranges be- tween 50° and 60° Falir.; they are strongly impregnated with sulphur and sulphuretted hydrogen gas, being in their taste and smell very similar to those of Buxton. Bruchsal Stat.— Inns: Badischer Hof, best; Ziihringer Hof. This inanimate town of 7200 inhab., formerly belonged to the Prince-Archbishops of Spire, whose vast Palace, now empty, stands near the gate leading to Frankfurt. Travellers going to Munich and the Tyrol, by the most direct road, leave the railroad at Bruchsal. The road from Bruchsal to Stuttgard joins that from Carlsruhe to Stuttgard at Illingen. VVeingarten Stat. Durlach Stat., once the residence of the margraves of Baden-Durlach, now the reigning family since the extinction of the line of Baden-Baden, 1771. An old ruined castle upon a height of the Thurmberg was the cradle of the family in its infancy. The more recent Chateau or Palace in the town is now deserted, and half pulled down; what remains is turned into a cavalry bar- rack. In the gardens are some Roman altars and milestones, found in the neighbourhood. Eilwagen, hence to Wildbad in 6 hours. After passing (rt.) Gottesau, once a convent, now an artillery barrack, we reach the handsome buildings which compose the Carlsruhe Stat. — Inns: Post ( GoldeneKreutz), table-d’hbte, 1 fl., in- cluding wine; Erbprinz,good; H. d’An- gleterre-; Pariser Hof; Hof von Hol- land. There are very good baths in the town. Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden, the seat of government and of the Chambers of Representatives, and residence of the court and foreign ministers, contains 24,000 inhab. It is a pretty but ra- ther dull town, and one of the youngest capitals of Germany, as it was not begun till 1715. It owes its origin, not to any fitness in the situation for trade or manufactures, but solely to the accident of the Margrave Charles of Baden building a hunting-seat on the spot, which he fixed on from its seclusion and retirement, the surround- ing country being at the time an al- most uninterrupted forest. He called this retreat “ Charles’s Rest.” In a few years, however, his solitude was542 route 105.- invaded by other dwellings, and con- verted into a populous settlement, and the hunting-lodge became the nucleus of a new city, which derived from it the name of Karls-ruhe. It is regu- larly built, in the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. The main streets, like the spokes, all radiate from the palace, which terminates the vista in every street; so that the citizens who wish “ to know which way the wind blows,” must necessarily look to the palace weathercock. The streets are provided with trottoirs, a rare con- venience in German towns, of which neither Vienna nor Munich can boast. From the railway you enter Carls- ruhe by the Ettlingengatss, and pass, in traversing the street leading to the palace, the monuments of the Grand Duke Carl (d. 1818), a bust; Lewis (d. 1830), a statue; and that of the Markgrave Charles William, founder of Carlsruhe, a •pyramid of red sand- stone, with a neat inscription. The 2 last are in the market-place, on the W. side of which is the Rathhaus, on the E. the Protestant Ch., and further on, in the court-yard of the palace, is the statue of the Grand Duke Karl Fre- derick (d. 1811), by Schwanthaler. The Polytechnic school was built by Hiibsch in 1836. Over the portal are statues of Keppler and Erwin von Sleinbach. The Palace or Schloss presents no- thing remarkable. The view from the turret which surmounts it, called The Bleythurm, deserves to be seen, as it will give a correct notion of the singu- lar plan on which Carlsruhe is built. The town is nearly surrounded by the Haardt Forest, which is intersected by roads radiating from the palace, qnd corresponding with the streets of the town. Beyond this are seen the sil- very windings of the Rhine, and be- hind it the Vosges Mountains, in France; while to the S. the pic- turesque outline of the Black Forest mountains, and on the N. those of the Bergstrasse, complete the panorama. The Theatre attached to the palace is open 3 times a week. The building is -CARLSRUHE. Sect. YIIT. plain in its exterior, but is well fitted up within. The Estates or Parliament of Baden hold their sittings here: their debates are open to the public. One of the finest buildings is the Academie Gebdude, erected by Hiibsch, 1843, of grey sandstones, with stripes of red. It is decorated with frescoes by Schwind, and contains a collection of paintings. There are—a portrait of Colbert, Ph. de Champagne; 2 por- traits by Van der Heist; many Dutch pictures; and a medallion portrait of Newton, by de Witte. Those of the old masters are of 2d rate v^lue, but there are good specimens of the modern German School : Achenbach, Dietz, Schwind. There is a Museum of Natural His- tory, on the right of the palace, rich in fossil remains; a large portion of the skeleton of a mammoth was dug up at Oos. Carlsruhe also possesses a library of 90,000 vols. and a botanic garden. The Palace Gardens, and those called Amaliensruhe, which are thrown open most liberally to the public, afford agreeable walks. Another pleasant short walk is to the village of Bier- theim, where there are good baths. A noble avenue of Lombardy pop- lars, the oldest and highest in Germany, none being under 90 ft., and some more than 120 ft. high, 2 miles long, leads towards Durlach. Stultz, the celebrated tailor, is the founder of an hospital in this town, near the Miihlberg gate, which he endowed with a sum of 100,000 florins; he was in consequence created a baron. In the shops of Franz Noldeke and Mr. Bielefeld will be found a number of interesting publications, engravings of all sorts, with guide-books, and views of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. The Club (§ 44.) is called the Mu- seum : strangers may be admitted to it by a member. M. Noldeke will intro- duce English strangers. All the Ger- man, many French, and a few English papers are taken in here. In the Friedhof is the grave of Jung Stilling, who died here 1817."Baden. ROUTE 105.—RASTADT. PALACE. 543 Ettwagen daily to Stuttgard in hrs.; to Augsburg in 25; — to Wild- bad in 6^;—to Zweibriicken in 11^;— to Landau in S£; — to Pforzheim in 3. Railway continued. — About 2 m. from Carlsruhe, on the rt. of the rail- road is Bulach, where is a modern Romanesque Ch., with two towers, built by Hiibsch in 1838. The inte- rior contains frescoes by Dietrich of Stuttgard. Etlingen Stat. Malsch Stat. Muggensturm Stat, The Duchy of Baden is one of the most fertile districts in Germany, and that part of it through which the railroad passes produces tobacco in large quantities, maize, hops, hemp, and flax, besides every species of grain. It is a country of wine also, and oil, as the hills are clothed with, vineyards, and the roads are shaded by luxuriant walnut-trees, from the nuts of which an excellent and clear oil is pressed, nearly as good for culinary purposes as fine olive oil. The agricultural .pea- santry in this country commonly wear cocked-hats, even in the fields,—a sin- gular decoration for a ploughboy. Rastadt Stat. — Inns : Badischer Hof; Goldenes Kreutz. This town of 7000 inhab. on the Murg, is a dull place, but has been converted into a Fortress of the German Confederation, as a frontier defence against France. The Palace, built by the eccentric Margravine Sibylla (see below), is a large edifice of red sandstone. It was the residence of the last Margraves of Ba- den, but is now uninhabited, and has a deserted and decaying appearance. Its design is on the whole handsome; and it has a further claim to attention, be- cause two Congresses, important in the annals of Europe, have assembled under its roof. One in 1714, when Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene signed a treaty of peace in the small unpainted cabinet, its walls stained with ink-spots, still pointed out to visitors; the second, in 1797-99, which was terminated abruptly by the mysterious murder of the French envoys, Roberjot and Bon- nier, as they were quitting the town, after a conference. No satisfactory light has ever been thrown upon the instigators or perpetrators of this foul assassination, and direct violation of the law of nations, committed, it is sup- posed, in the expectation of finding secret and important papers on the per- sons of the victims. About 10 minutes’ walk outside the Rheinau gate a monu- ment marks the spot where the French deputies were murdered. The Picture Gallery (so called) is filled with a great deal of trash ; but in another apartment are preserved the Turkish trophies, horsetail stand- ards, arms, &c., gained by the Mar- grave Louis in his successful cam- paigns against the Turks, together with the armour he wore, and his por- trait. In further testimony of his successful valour, whole-length por- traits of 4 Circassian slaves are pointed out. They formed part of the victor’s share of the booty, and accompanied him home. How they were received by the lady Sibylla his wife, does not appear to be known. After leaving the Rastadt Stat. the railway crosses the river Murg, and a little further passes at about £ m. on the left, the Favourite, an old-fashioned and deserted chateau of the Margraves of Baden, built by the Margravine Sibylla, wife of the heavy Louis ot Baden, who fought against the Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is nei- ther large nor very handsome, and any splendour it may originally have pos- sessed is faded and decayed. It is chiefly interesting as illustrating the manners and tastes of former days, and from the singular character of Sibylla, its founder. In her youth she was very handsome, and not a little vain of her beauty; as a proof of which she has left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits of herself, in as many different cos- tumes. The old-fashioned furniture of the chateau, originally tawdry rather than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There are no works of art in the house; but one or two old cabinets filled with glass, and some singular Delft ware in the forms of birds and beasts, are kept in544 ROUTE 105.— OFFENBURG. Sect. VIII. the lower rooms. In the garden of the chateau is an odd, many-sided build- ing, resembling a Chinese temple : this was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of fri- volity seems, in her case, to have ter- minated in an old age of bigotry and superstition. Before an altar within it, in a chamber designedly rendered as gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the greater part of her days and nights, during the latter years of her life, in- flicting upon herself all kinds of priva- tions and penances. Here is still preserved the scourge of whip-cord, ending in wire points (like a cat-o’-nine- tails), with which she used to discipline herself; also, her hair shirt, and a cross of wire net-work, with points turned inward, which she wore next her skin, while 2 circular pieces of the same were placed for her to kneel upon. Her bed was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor; and her only companions were two wooden figures/ as large as life, of the Virgin and St. John. These were her guests, and with them she used to sit down to table ; equal portions of every meal being served to all three; but their share was afterwards given to the poor. The Favourite is about 6 miles from Baden. Oos Stat.—A branch Railway di- verges hence to Baden 3 m. E. (Rte. 106.) The railway then 'crosses the Oos rivulet. Sinzheim Stat. Steinbach Stat. — At the foot of the hill of Yberg, the birth-place of Erwin, the architect of Strasburg Minster. Biilil Stat. — Inn, Post. Ottersweier Stat. Here the valley of Hub opens out on the E. : within it lies the Hubbad, and the ruined Castle of Windeck. A little further on at Sasbach, on the left of the rail- road, stands an obelisk of granite, erected in 1829, by the French, to mark the spot where their great Ge- neral Turenne was killed by a cannon ball, while reconnoitring the Austrian army, 27th July, 1675. This is the •4th monument which has been set up to his memory, the others having been destroyed. His death arrested instantly the success of the French arms, no ge- neral in his army being found capable of following up his plans. ,The most contradictory and futile orders were issued ; till the troops, discouraged by inaction and failure, exclaimed, in irony, “ Lachez la pie (the piebald charger of Turenne, upon which he had so often led them to victory); elle nous conduira.” Achern Stat. — The bowels of Turenne were interred in the little chapel of St. Nicholas ; his body was conveyed to France. A little beyond this the railroad crosses the Rench, a stream descending from the Kniebis. Rench en Stat. Appenweier Stat. A railway here branches off on the right to Kehl (Strasburg), 2 Germ. m. =9^ Eng. m. Travellers bound for Strasburg and going afterwards to Freiberg or Schaff hausen, will find it convenient to go on to Offenburg, and leaving their baggage there, to return thence to Strasburg. They may deposit it at M. Pfaehler’s (of the Fortuna) new esta- blishment, opposite the Station, with- out incurring any extra expense. [A road goes from Appenweier over the Kniebis to Freudenstadt and Stuttgard (39 m.) by Oberkirch, 2 m. from which is the fine Gothic Church of Lauten- bach (built 1471), Oppenau (Inn, Krone : not a regular post station, but will supply horses), and 3 Freuden- stadt. From Appenweier an Eilwagen to Rippoldsau, the last place in Baden, on this road, in 6 hours.] rt. The spire of Strasburg Minster is visible. 1. The well preserved Cas- tle of Staufenberg, built in the 11th century, by a Bp. of Strasburg, crowns a distant eminence. Offenburg Stat. — Inn, La For- tuna ( Pfaehler) ; very good: a capital cuisine, and a clever and obliging host, who understands English. He is also a wine-merchant, and his Zeller and Klingelberger wines, grown near this, are very good; the price of a cask varies from 121. to 15Z. La Poste. In going from Frankfurt to Basle, or vice versa, the traveller may dine very com- fortably at the Offenburg Station, asJBaden. [ROUTE 105.—FREIBERG. MINSTER. 545 ^ hr. is allowed. Dinners from the 1 st May to the end of October, at the Sta- tion, by Pfachler, of the Fortuna Hotel. Offenburg is a town of 3700 inhab., situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, through which runs the direct road from Strasburg to Schaff- hausen (Rte. 108.). The modern Go- thic Castle of Ortenburg, at the mouth of the Kinzig Thai (see Rte. 108.), is 2 m. distant. It has been built by a Russian nobleman at a cost of 30,000/. Strasburg is about 12 m. distant. The railway then crosses the Kinzig. Niederschopfheim Stat. Friesenheim Stat. Dinglingen Stat. — Inn, Post; good and cheap. 1£ m. E. lies Lahr (Post; Sonne), a flourishing and in- dustrious town, on the Schutter. W. beyond the Rhine appears the outline of the Vosges Mountains, E. the red sandstone cliffs of the Black Forest. On a steep conical hill rise the ruins of Schloss Hohengeroldseck, destroyed by the French, 1697. Kippenheim Stat. The village of Kippenheim is the birthplace of Mr. (afterwards baron) Stultz, the tailor: a neat monument of cast iron has been set up by the roadside to his memory. Orschweier Stat. Beyond this the railroad crosses the Ettenbacli, and here, a little to the E. of the railroad is Ettenheim, where a party of French emigrants, among whom was the un- fortunate Due d’Enghien, were seized, 1804, by two columns of troops sent by Napoleon across the Rhine, who thus committed a breach of the law of nations, and a violation of the territory of the German confederation. The duke was inhumanly shot 6 days after, at Vincennes. Herbolzheim Stat. Kenzingen Stat.;—Inn, Lachs (Sal- mon); good and clean. lliegel Stat. rt. The Kaiserstuhl, an isolated, volcanic hilly range, fertile and thickly peopled, rises out of the plain of the Rhine : S. W. of this place, the railway bends E. to avoid it"; passing between it and the Black Forest range. The summits of the Bellchen and Blauen are conspi- cuous. Emmendingen Stat. 1. Beyond the town, the Castle of Hochburg, one of the most extensive ruins in Germany, appears. Denzlingen Stat. About 3 m. N. of Freiberg, on the 1., is the ruined Castle of the counts of Zahringen, founders of the reigning family of Baden. From the ruins a beautiful view is obtained over the sur- rounding district, called the Breisgau ; for nearly 500 years a province of Aus- tria, but ceded to Baden by the Peace of Presburg, 1805. Fueibekq (Fr. Fribourg) Stat.— Inns : Zahringer Hof, very good ; — Engel (Angel) ; Goldner Lowe (Gol- den Lion); Pfau (Peacock); Sauvage (Wilder Mann), very fair; Hotel Fohrenbacli, close to the railway, a new-house. This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the prettiest spots on the outskirts of the Black Forest, at the mouth of the Hollenthal (Valley of Hell), upon the Treisam, runlets from which are carried through all the streets. It has 15,000 inhab. (1500 Protestants, recently settled here). The Minster is remarkable as being almost the only large Gothic church in Germany which is finished, and which has escaped destruction from fire, or the violence of war. It is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, and the good taste of its decorations. It owes its existence, partly to the munificence of the princes of Zahringen ; but also to the zeal and liberality of the citizens of Freiberg, who taxed themselves to the utmost, and made great sacrifices to complete it. The architect’s name is unknown; Erwin of Steinbach, who built Stras- burg, may have been his pupil. It was begun under Conrad III., of Zahringen, 1152. The nave, W. front, tpwer, and rich porch below it, date from 1 236-72, and are by far the finest part of the building : the choir is infe- rior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest parts are the transepts, together with their external turrets, in the round546 ROUTE 105----FREIBERG. UNIVERSITY. Sect. VIII. style. The W. tower, 380 ft. high, one of the very few of the kind ever com- pleted, exhibits a skilful transition from a square base into an octagon, which is surmounted by a pyramidal spire of the most exquisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme bold- ness as well as lightness. The ascent of the tower (6 kr.) gives a good idea of the beauty of the building : —the view is better from the Schlossberg. Beneath the tower is the main en- trance into the church, by a magnificent portal, richly ornamented with sculp- tures. The portal leading into the choir from the N. also deserves atten- tion ; the sculptures below the arch represent the Creation by the Deity in the form of an old man, shaping the sun, moon, and stars out of balls, and breathing life into Adam. The interior of the church contains the monument and armed effigy of Berchtold V., last Duke of Zahringen (1228): a curious carved pulpit, the work of George Kempf, 1561 : and a singular piece of sculpture of the Lord’s Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by an artist named Hauser, 1561. The win- dows are filled with stained glass, of beautiful colours : the oldest is of the 15th century ; that of the choir, supe- rior in point of drawing, dates only from the beginning of the 16th. That in St. Alexander’s or the Miners’ Chapel, is from designs of Baldung Grim, 1515, and very fine. Some good modern painted glass has been inserted. In the chapel of St. Martin (Lo- cherers), on the N. of the choir, a re- markable carving in wood represents the Virgin, sheltering beneath her mantle a whole host of worshippers of all ranks, including popes, cardinals, bishops, &c., date 1520. Prior (Dom- probst) Boecklin’s chapel contains his monumental effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, hammered and gilt, of Eastern workmanship. . The painting over the high altar, set within an elegant Gothic framework, is by Hans Baldung Grun (an old painter of Gmiind in Swabia, d. 1552). The chief subject, in the centre when the doors are opened, is the Ascension of the Virgin, and her Coronation by the First and Second Persons in the Trinity; on the shutters at either side are the 12 Apostles. The outside of these is occupied by 4 subjects — the Annunciation, Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the best). At the back of' these paintings are others by B. Grun also, visible from the choir aisle; the chief piece being a row of portraits of magistrates of Freiberg. On the one side are St. George and St. Lawrence ; on the other, St. John Baptist and St. Jerome as a Cardinal. It is curious, rather than beautiful, as a work of art. The University Chapel in the S. aisle contains 2 good pictures by Hol- bein, in his early style,—a Nativity, and an Adoration of the Magi; the latter very fine, especially the figure of the Virgin. It was painted for the Qber- riedt family, whose portraits are intro- duced below. The University, founded 1456, has only 228 students. It is the Roman Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden: Heidelberg is Protestant. Freiburg is now the see of an arch- bishop. Near the gate leading to Frankfurt stands the Protestant Church, an ele- gant building in Romanesque (Byzan- tine) style, with an octagon tower. It was skilfully transferred, stone by stone, from an old convent at Thennenbach, 15 m. off in the forest, to which it was originally attached. The Kaufhaus, S. of the cathedral, is a very quaint Gothic building of the 16th cent., resting on pointed arches, decorated externally with fresco por- traits gilt of the Emp. Maximilian, his son Philip I., Charles V., and Ferdinand I. The Gothic portal under the arcade exhibits a singular arrangement. 2 Gothic Fountains in the streets are worth notice. The town is flourishing from the wine and timber trade, and the manufacture of chicory. There are delightful Walks round the castle hill ( Schlossberg), about £ hour’s walk from the minster. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges over the vale of the Treisam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline ofBaden. ROUTE 106.—BRANCH TO BADEN-BADEN. 547 the Black Forest Hills rising one be- hind another. The filigree work of the spire is seen from this to the greatest advantage. The beautiful scenery of the Hotten- thal, on the way from Freiberg to SchafThausen, is described in Rte. 109. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to Switzerland, should make an excursion from Frei- berg as far as Steig, 11 miles, to ex- plore its beauties. Eilwagen daily to SchafFhausen in 11 hrs., and Constance in 18, through the Hollenthal; to Alt Breisach in 2£ hrs , and thence to Colmar. [16 m. W. of Freiberg, on the rt. bank cf the Rhine, stands Alt-Breisach, a decayed town, once a frontier for- tress, and the key of Germany on Jhe W., but with nothing to show its for- mer importance save the Minster of St, Stephent on a hill. It contains some monuments and a silver shrine, which held the relics of the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, found by St. Ambrose at Milan, and placed by him in the Ch. of St. Ambrogio (Handbook N. Italy, p. 163.). Its chief curiosity, however, is its beautiful Altar Screen, carved in wood. The central compart- ment is occupied by the Coronation of the Virgin, a very masterly work of art, with the date 1526, and the mono- gram of the sculptor, Hans Leifrink, or Leychman. The left-hand shutter bears the representation of the patron saints of the town; the right-hand is occu- pied by St. Stephen and St. Laurence. Below the centre the 4 Evangelists are grouped, composing their gospels. The whole is surmounted by pinnacles; that in the centre reaching up to the roof. A monument to the Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frederick, has been placed on the top of the Eggardsberge, where once stood the Citadel. ] The Baden Bailway continues from Freiberg, near to the hills, to Schallstadt Stat. Krotzingen Stat., near which are the ruins of Staufenburg. Heitersheim Stat. Krozingen Stat. Miihlheim Stat. — Inn, Krone. About 3 m. E. of the railroad are the baths of Baden-weiler (/an, Romer- bad). The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered, 1748, in a very perfect state of preservation. They consist of 4 large and 8 smaller baths; and include a vapour bath, anointing- room, dressing-room, &c. : they are regarded as the most perfect out of Rome, and are 324 ft. long, by 100 broad. An inscription found on the spot proves that they were dedicated to Diana Abnoba. Excursions may be made to the castle of Biirglen 6 m., and to the top of the Blauen moun- tain (6 m.), 3597 ft. high, the loftiest in the district. The wine called Mark- grafler, the best which Baden produces, is grown near this. Sulzburg, to the N. E., was the birth- place of Schopflin the Reformer. At Neunburg, 3 m. W. of Mullheim, Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar died, 1639, poisoned, it was supposed, by Richelieu. Schliengen Stat. Here an action was fought between Moreau and the Archduke Charles, 1796. Efringen Stat. Here at present (July, 1849) the railway ends, 8 m. from Basle: when completed, it will terminate 1| m. from Basle, at Leo- poldshohe, where the Baden custom- house is. Since Baden has adopted the Prus- sian custom-house system, the exami- nation of the goods and person of tra- vellers coming from Switzerland is strictly enforced (§ 32.). Basle. Handbook fob Switzer- land. (Route 1.) ROUTE 106. OOS TO BADEN-BADEN----BRANCH RAILWAY. | Germ, mile = 3 Eng. miles. This Railroad branches off from the Great Baden railroad at the Oos sta- tion. (Rte. 105. p. 544.) Beyond Oos the valley begins to contract, and the hills to rise on either side. On the 1. the old castle of Baden is seen crown- ing the summit of a fir-clad hill: on the rt. rises the hill of Yberg, on which another castle is perched. Both of548 ROUTE 106.—BADEN-BADEN. Sect. Yin. them were, perhaps, Roman forts ori- ginally. 1^ Baden (called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from places of the same name in Switzerland, and near .Vienna). — Inns: H. de l’Europe, opposite the Conversations Haus and Trinkhalle ; a splendid house, containing 100 rooms. Table-d’hote at 5, 1 fl. 12 kr.; — H. dej Russie, clean and good; — H. d’ Angleterre, the most fashionable, an excellent house; —H. de France; — Badenscher Hof (much frequented by the English), good; excellent table- d’hote ; — H. du Rhin ; — Zahringer Hof. There are many other inns, and nearly ^ of the houses in the town are let as lodgings, but do not provide dinners. The Sonne and Blurae are respectable establishments of this class. The price of rooms varies, according to season and situation, from 3 fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath costs 24 kr. = 8\d. ; a bed, 48 kr. to 1 fl. per night; breakfast, 36 kr. Some of the inns are provided with baths, but there is no building here appropriated exclusively to bathing. There are tables-d’h6te in all the principal inns at 1 or 2, price from 48 kr. to 1 fl., and at 4 or 5, chiefly to suit the English, at 1 fl. 12 or 24 kr. The best wines of the coun- try are Affenthaler (red),. Klingel- berger, and Markgrafler. A dinner in private, 2 fl. 20 kr. = 5 francs. The price of every thing is fixed by govern- ment, according to tariff, even down to washerwomen’s charges. There can be but one opinion as to the beauty of the situation of the town of Baden, embosomed among hills forming an offset or commencement of the Black Forest range, and seated on the banks of the Oos, a stream which, though insignificant in size, once formed the boundary line between the Franks and Alemanni. The town has about 6000 permanent inhab., and is built chiefly on the slope of a hill, owing to the narrowness of the valley. The mineral springs were known to and appreciated by the Romans, who fixed a colony here, and called it Civitas Aurelia Aquensis. It was for 6 cent, the abode of the Margraves of Baden, until the incendiary devastation of the Palatinate by the French caused them to remove to Rastadt in the flat plain of the Rhine: at present the Grand Duke of Baden occasionally visits his Villa here, but resides principally du- ring the summer at his Castle of Eberstein. Baden was once considered one of the most fashionable German watering-places (§41.). During the season Princes may be met with in abundance, but are usually outnum- bered by blacklegs. The influx and concourse of visitors has greatly in- creased of late, and, in consequence, the number of new inns and other buildings has multiplied proportionately, but the place is falling of in respectable society. It has the attraction of being by far the most beautiful of the baths of North Germany in its situation; even surpassing in this respect the Brunnen of Nassau. The surrounding country, without the sublimity and grandeur of Switzerland, is distinguished by a pleas- ing and romantic wildness; it is, as it were* a prelude to the Alps. The neighbourhood will afford almost end- less gratification in the beauty of its prospects, and the number and variety of the rides and walks, cut for miles in every direction through the forests, and up the surrounding hills. Whatever be the taste or disposition of the. traveller, he will assuredly find something to please him here. There are saloons, promenades, balls, concerts, gaming-tables and other luxuries of a capital; and, on the other hand, 20 dif- ferent paths, leading in 10 minutes into the depths of dark woods or deep val- leys, where he may enjoy solitude so complete that he may fancy himself far from the haunts of men. From the number of woods and avenues around, the invalid may enjoy a shady walk at all hours, even in the height of sum- mer. The months of July and August are the season when the baths are most frequented, but visitors are constantly coming and going from May to Oc- tober, if the weather be fine. As many as 32,000 persons in the season of 1845 resorted to the baths. The number of English visitors increased so much of late that the place assumed the appear- ance of a settlement of our countrymen.Baden. ROUTE 106.--BADEN-BADEN. 549 This influx has had the effect of di- minishing its advantages of cheapness and retirement, as within a few years the price of every thing has been raised nearly one half. After October the soil and climate are extremely damp ; the grassy banks are oozing with water, which the granitic substratum will not absorb, and the hotels and lodging houses suffer greatly from moisture. The Hot Springs (13 in number) burst out of the rocks at the foot of the castle terrace, called Schnecken- garten, behind the parish church. That part of the town goes by the name of “ Hell,” and in the coldest weather snow never rests upon it. Neither summer nor winter produces any va- riation in the temperature of the springs. The hottest are 54° Reaum., the cold- est 37°. Water from them is conveyed through the town in pipes, to supply the different baths, and loses little of its warmth in the passage; but the supply greatly exceeds the demand, so that some of the sources are used by the townspeople to scald their pigs and poultry, and to save them the trouble of plucking their chickens. A build- ing in the form of a temple is erected over the principal spring (Ursprung), one of the hottest as well as most co- pious sources. The vault of masonry which encloses the spring is of Roman construction. Several fragments of an- cient sculpture, dug up in Baden and its neighbourhood, are preserved in the building ; among them are votive tab- lets and altars to Neptune, Mercury, and Juno. Neptune seems to have been the adopted patron of Baden, and of this medicinal fountain. The Neue Trinhhalle (i. e. Pump- room) on the public walks, and nearly on a line with the Conversations Haus, is one of the handsomest buildings in Baden. It is from Hiibsch’s design, and is decorated with poor frescoes, re-, presenting legends of the Black Forest. The hot water is conducted in pipes from the source: and other mineral waters, goat’s whey, &c., are to be had. The company assembles here between 6J and 7J a. m. to drink the waters, nnd the band plays. On the left bank of the Oosbach, opposite to the town, are the Promenade and the Conversations Haus, a hand- some building with a Corinthian por- tico, surrounded by gardens and plea- sure-grounds, forming the lounge and chief resort—in fact, the grand focus of attraction for the visitors at Baden. It is one of the most splendid establish- ments of the kind in Germany, and in- cludes a very fine and large Assembly- room, where there is dancing 3 times a week ; to which people repair in their morning dress, except on Saturday, when it is “bal pare.” Gaming-tables are open and occupied day and night. There is a Theatre in the right wing, and in the left a Restaurant, where din- ners may be had a la carte ; attached to it is the Library and Reading Room of M. Marx. Strangers who intend to remain any time here may subscribe for a fortnight or month to the rooms and balls. In the shop of Creutzbauer the bookseller, there is a Circulating Library and read- ing-room, where The Times, Galig- nani’s Messenger, and other English- papers are taken in. The shady avenue leading to the Conversations Haus is occupied by shops of traders from va- rious parts of Europe, — Tyrol, Swit- zerland, Paris, all selling their national commodities, and commonly not very cheap. In the afternoon, when dinner is over, the walks and colonnades in front of the Conversations Haus be- come the fashionable resort, and are crowded with people sipping coffee and ices, or smoking; the whole space is then covered with chairs and tables, and a band of music is stationed close at hand. The rouge-et-noir and roulette tables, though opened for a forenoon course of gambling, are chiefly frequented in the evening, and stakes become higher as the night advances : females are sometimes seen at them as well as men ; ladies but rarely. Players alone are allowed to be seated. The Conversations Haus is let out by the government of Baden to a com- pany of speculators, who pay for the exclusive privilege of opening gamb- ling-tables 35,000 florins (3000/.) an- nually, and agree to spend in addition550 ROUTE 106.—BADEN-BADEN. Sect, vni 250,000 florins on the walks and build- ings. Some idea may be formed from this of the vast sums of money which must be yearly lost by the dupes who frequent this licensed gaming-house. It is understood that the same company engage the tables at Ems, Wiesbaden, and other watering-places. The whole is under the direction of M. Benazet, who formerly farmed the gambling- houses of Paris. He has fitted up the interior with much taste and great splendour. The gaming-tables draw hither much disreputable society, and must be considered as a very serious disadvantage to the place. It is chiefly through their baneful influence that Baden has sadly fallen off in'respect- ability of late years. Immediately above the highest houses of the town rises the Neue Schloss (new castle)—called new only by way of distinguishing it from the still older castle on the very summit of the hill above, in which the Duke’s ancestors resided during the insecure times of the middle ages, down to 1471, when the present new schloss was founded. It was burnt and ruined in the fatal year 1689, by the French army that ravaged the Palatinate, but was afterwards re- stored in its present form. It is an ugly building, only remarkable for its situation and the curious Dungeons be- neath it. Under the guidance of the castellan, the stranger is conducted into these singular vaults down a winding stair, under the tower in the right-hand corner of the inner court, through an ancient bath constructed by the Ro- mans. This entrance has been broken through in modern times; originally the dungeons were only accessible from above, by a perpendicular shaft or chimney running through the centre of the building, and still in existence. The visitor, in passing under it, can barely discern the daylight at the top. According to tradition, prisoners, bound fast in an arm-chair and blindfolded, were let down by a windlass into these is founded. The dungeons were closed, not with doors of wood or iron, but with solid slabs of stone, turning upon dark and mysterious vaults, excavated out of the solid rock on which the castle pivots, and ingeniously fitted. Several of them still remain ; they are nearly a foot thick, and weigh from 1200 to 2000 lbs. In one chamber, loftier than the rest, called the Rack Chamber (Fol- ter-Kammer), the instruments of tor- ture stood; a row of iron rings, form- ing part of the fearful apparatus, still remains in the wall. In a passage ad- joining, there is a well or pit in the floor, now boarded over, originally co- vered with a trap door. The prisoner, upon whom doom had been passed, was led into this passage, and desired to kiss an image of the Virgin placed at the opposite end; but no sooner did his feet rest on the trap-door than it gave way beneath his weight, and pre- cipitated him to a great depth below, upon a machine composed of wheels, armed with lancets, by which he was tom to pieces. This dreadful punish- ment was called the “ Baiser de la Vierge,” and the fatal pit, with its trap- door, an oubliette; because those who were precipitated down it vrere “oublies never heard of more. The secret of this terrible dungeon remained un- known until, as the story goes, an at- tempt to rescue a little dog, which had fallen through the planking above the pit, led to the discovery, at a depth of many yards, of fragments of ponderous wheels set round with rusty knives, with portions of bones, rags, and torn garments adhering to them. The last and largest of these vaults is called the Hall of Judgment. Here the judges sat upon stone benches, remains of which may still be traced round the wall. Behind the niche where the president (Blutrichter) sat is the outlet to a subterranean passage, by which the members of the court entered; it is said to have communi- cated at one time with the Alte Schloss on the top of the hill, but is now walled up. According to popular belief, these dungeons were the seat of a Secret Tri- bunal (Vehm-gericht), such as that de- scribed so well by Scott in Anne of Geierstein, and by Gothe in Gotz of Berlicliingen. however, that Westphalia held its meetings, not in It must be remembered, the famous Vehme ofBaden. ROUTE 106.--BADEN-BADEN. 551 the dark, nor in dungeons, but in broad day, and in the open field. (See p. 375.) There is little doubt that these pri- sons were the place of meeting of a mysterious tribunal, over which the lord of the castle most probably presided. Similar prisons (excepting the stone doors) are to be found in almost every well-preserved baronial fortress of the middle ages; and, though sometimes appropriated to the trial of real offences committed within th§ seigneur’s juris- diction, were not unfrequently the in- struments of tyranny, and the scenes of dark crime; while at the best, from the secrecy of the proceedings, such a trial must have been but “wild jus- tice.” The upper part of the castle is only worth notice on account of the fine view from its windows, and of the open shaft running through the building from top to bottom, within the winding staircase, which was the means of access to the dungeons below. It was di- vided by a partition, extending the whole way down. It is supposed-that a prisoner, with his eyes blindfolded, was admitted by a door in the hall, opposite the principal entrance of the castle, was seated in an arm-chair, wound up to the top by a windlass through one side of the shaft, and let down by the other into the prisons of the secret tribunal. This shaft, at least, served to convey air into those subter- ranean chambers. The small garden adjoining the castle and the terrace called Schneckengarten (snail garden, because snails were once bred in it for the table) are agreeable walks, com- manding fine views. The Parish Church is noticed chiefly as being the burial-place of the Mar- graves of Baden, and as containing several of their monuments. The most interesting are those of Margrave Louis William, who distinguished himself against the Turks, and was considered one of the first generals of his time. He served in 26 campaigns, and in his numerous battles was never vanquished; he died 1707 : Prince Eugene served under him. His monument is by Pi- galle (the sculptor of that of Marshal Saxe at Strasburg), and is not in good taste. Margrave Frederick, although Bishop of Utrecht, is represented on his tomb clad in armour, but with a mitre on his head instead of a helmet. An- other of the family, Leopold William, also fought against the infidel, in token of which his monument (one of the best in the collection) is supported by Turks, chained. He was the colleague of Staremberg and Montecucoli, and died at Warasdein in Hungary, 1671. At the E. end of the town is a Convent of nuns of the Holy Sepulchre: their dress is black, in sign of mourning; to be worn until the Holy Sepulchre shall be again rescued from the Infidels by the Christians. The sisters conduct a female school ; the service in their con- vent chapel, aided by the voices of a female choir, is very impressive and pleasing. The English church service is per- formed every Sunday in the Spital Kirche, at 11. English visitors usually subscribe something to the stipend of the clergyman. Dr. C. Freeh, a resident German physician, understands the English language and practice. Post- Office. — Letters arrive from and are despatched to Strasburg twice, and to Carlsruhe once a day. A letter sent via Paris, will reach England in 5 days from Baden. Extra-post. — The post-master is entitled to charge 15 kr. above the usual sum for every horse sent out from Baden. Hired carriages, donkeys, and riding- horses are to be had in abundance dur- ing the season at all the principal inns. About 2 or 3 in the afternoon, they collect at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversations Haus, to await employers. All the charges are fixed according to distance, by a printed tariff (taxe). Excursions.— A stranger cannot be at a loss for excursions: let him follow almost any path leading out of the town, and he will find it a pleasant walk. One of the most agreeable, and usually the first taken, is that to552 ROUTE 106.—BADEN-BADEN. ALTE SCHLOSS. Sect. VIII. das Alte Schloss (2\ miles, an hour’s walk), the conspicuous ruin which rises out of the woods on the summit of the hill above the town. A carriage-road, commencing behind das Neue Schloss, leads up the hill to it in zig-zags, but a shorter footh-path is open for pedes- trians, or those who trust to mules and asses, the usual beasts of burden em- ployed in this excursion. The shade of the woods through which the path winds, alleviates the fatigue of the ascent in the heat of the day, while seats, opportunely placed, wherever a projecting rock displays the view to advantage, enable the wanderer to re- cruit his strength, if weary. The Alte Schloss was the earliest residence of the ancestors of the reign- ing house of Baden. Its situation afforded its owners security from foes during many centuries of rapine and disorder. At length, in the 15th cent., when the right of private warfare was abolished, the Lords of Baden ven- tured to descend from their tower on high, and settled in the New Chateau, close to the town. This interesting and picturesque old ruin was disman - tled and reduced to its present state by the French in the devastating war of the Palatinate. The view which the galleries round its mouldering battlements afford is the most pleasing and extensive in the neighbourhood of Baden. On one side are seen the dark hills of the Black Forest, luxuriantly clothed with the woods from which they get their name, contrasting with the verdure of the valleys they enclose, while the town of Baden at our feet, numberless villages, church spires, con- vents, and mills, clustering on the borders of winding streams, fill the foreground: on-the other side, the hills subside into the plain'of the Rhine, whose course may he traced in the distance, backed by the Vosges Moun- tains in France. A path leading from the gateway of the castle to the left, and winding round the shoulder of the hill, conducts to Ebersteinburg (2 m.), another ruin, near a village of the same name. This is an agreeable prolongation of the morning's excursion. Walks are also cut in the hill above the castle to the curious rocks called Felsen Briiclte on the summit, whence a good view over the level land to Strasburg may be enjoyed.”—D. J. The views from the top of the other hills around Baden, the Jagdhaus (Hunting Lodge, from which the spire of Strasburg may be seen), the Yberg, 6 m. (accessible for carriages only part of the way; — to the foot of the hill), and the Mercurivsbcrg, 5 m. (on whose summit a tower is built) partake more or less of the character of that from the Alte Schloss. Nevertheless, a person residing some time at Baden will find each of them a pleasant excursion, affording most excellent situations for a pic-nic party. Lichtenthal. An avenue of shady oaks, commencing near the south end of the town of Baden, leads up the valley to the Convent of Lichtenthal, 1^ m. It was richly endowed in ancient days by the Margraves of Baden, but has undergone the fate of all such reli- gious establishments; its revenues only escaped entire confiscation by the inter- ference of the Grand Duke, but the number of its inmates is now reduced to 20 nuns. In the older and smaller of the two churches attached to the convent, are many curious monuments of the Margraves, bearing their mailed effigies, and the crest of goat’s horn displayed on their helmets: one prince lies on a slab or table, clad in mail, with bars of irpn running down the sleeves, a curious transition from chain to plate armour. The Orphan house attached to the convent is one of the foundations of the charitable London tailor Stultz, who was created a nobleman by the Grand Duke of Baden. The convent and the village of Ober- beuern, close to Lichtenthal, lie at the entrance of a beautiful valley, which well deserves to be explored. It is the picture of quiet seclusion, a minia- ture of a Swiss valley. A clear rippling stream flows through the midst, and sets in activity several saw-mills ; rich verdant meadows and well cultivatedBaden. ROUTE 106.—BADEN. NEU EBERSTEIN. 553 corn-fields line its banks, and extend up to the hem of the forest, which clothes all the hills around with its dark foliage. A-carriage road leads as far as Geroldsau, a picturesque village, where visitors are invited to walk up to a waterfall called the Bvtte (6 m. from Baden). The walk is pleasant; but as for the waterfall, it is a paltry jet, dried up for a great part of the season, when its attractions are most needed. A pedestrian disposed to take a good long walk may go to Yberg, proceed thence with a guide over the hills to Geroldsau and the waterfall, and return to Baden by Lichtenthal, making alto- gether 12 or 13 miles. The most pleasing excursion, how- ever, beyond doubt, among the many which lie within the reach of the visi- tor at Baden, is' that to the Valley of the Mnrg. The drive to Gernsbach and Neu Eberstein (6 m.) and back will occupy a morning or afternoon ; but it is well worth a stranger’s while to devote a whole day to the beauties of the.Murgthal. A traveller pressed for time,may visit the most interesting objects around Baden in 6 hours, with a carriage and 2 horses, costing 6 florins. After seeing the Old Schloss, which will take up 3 hours on foot, he may drive by Lichten- thal to Neu Eberstein ; thence descend the Murgthal to Gernsbach, by Ot- tenau, Rothenfels, and Kuppenheim, to the Favourite; whence he may either return to Baden, or proceed on to the Rastadt station, (p. 543.) An admirably constructed road leads from Lichtenthal direct to Schloss Eber- stein, a drive of 1^ hour, winding gra- dually over the ridge of steep hills, a spur or promontory shooting out from the Black Forest range, which divides the valley of Baden from that of the Murg. After viewing it, the tra- veller may descend the valley to Gerns- bach. The Castle of Neu Eberstein, an an- cestral fortalice of the Grand Ducal family, projects forward on the summit of a beetling craig, in a situation ena- bling its owners, in ancient days, to command the passage up and down the stream and valley, and to take toll from all comers. The old feudal ruin has been built up into a modern residence, and is inhabited during part of the year by some members of the Grand Duke's family. Strangers are freely admitted to see it. In front of it, on a stone pedestal, is placed a huge statue of a wild boar. (Eber.) The Gothic furniture, ancient armour, and painted glass with which it is decorated, though curious, will hardly distract the stran- ger’s attention from the exquisite view which he will gain from the platform in front. The road descends in zigzags from the castle-gate to the Murg, and joins a shorter footpath through the wood, at a little white chapel called Der Klingel, the resort of pilgrims at certain seasons. In the small town of Gernsbach (Inns : Stern; Sonne; 2000 inhab.) at the corner of the market-place, is a handsome red Elizabethan house. The saw-mills, which abound here, are busily employed in cutting into planks the noble trees of the Black Forest, which, having been floated down the Murg, are here collected, sorted, cut, and made up into larger rafts to find their way down the Rhine to Holland. About an hour’s drive beyond Gerns- bach, and lower down the valley of the Murg, is Rothenfels, with a fine hotel, pleasantly situated at what is called the Elizabethenquelle. Those who intend to wander further up the valley above Eberstein will find a foot-path descending from the castle straight to the village of Oberzroth, where they will find themselves again at the side of the Murg. The beau- ties and wildness of the river-banks in- crease as you ascend the stream. The villages passed in succession are Wil- pertsau, where the road crosses over to the right bank of the Murg, Weissen- bach, Langenbrand, on a lofty granite rock, a very striking object; Gaus- bach, where the woodenhouses resemble those of Switzerland; and Forbach (Inn, Krone), the last village belonging to Baden, 12 m. from Baden. As the road beyond is up-hill, Forbach gene- B BROUTE 107.—BADEN TO STRASBURG. Sect. VIII. 554 rally forms the limits of a day’s excur- sion, if the traveller intends returning the same day to Baden ; but for those who have time to spare, it may be ob- served, that the vale of the Murg is only the entrance to other very beautiful valleys of the Black Forest. In the side yalley of the Rauhmunz- ach, a few miles above Forbach, and in the midst of the mountains, may be seen a kind of tank (Schwellung), formed by damming up the stream, which is opened at stated periods to float down vast masses of timber. The valley of the Murg loses much of its beauty in its upper extremity. The frontier of Wurtemberg is reached at the post station Schonmiinznach (Inns: Post and Zum Waldhorn), 2 posts from Wildbad. (See Handbook or South Germany.) The road passes in succession the ruins of Konigswart on the top of a rock, the village of Huzenbach, the ancient abbey of Reichenbach, and Baiersbronn, a village of 3000 inhab. The sources of the Murg are situ- ated under the hill of Kniebis, and not far from the small town of Freudenstadt (7nn, Lowe), about 27 m. from Gerns- bach, and 20 from Forbach. Beyond it are the Baths of Rippoldsau, which may be reached in one day from Gerns- bach. (Handbook for South Ger- many, Route 153.) The road from Baden to Wildbad is described in the Handbook for South Germany, Route 160. ROUTE 107. TO STRASBURO, FROM THE BADEN RAILWAY. 2 Germ. m. from Appenweier Sta- tion to Kehl, and 6 French kilometres thence to Strasburg = 13 Eng. m. A branch line from the Appenweier Station, on the Great Baden railway (Rte. 106.) leads W. to Kehl. Trains run in 25 min. Kork Stat. 2 Kehl Stat.—Inns: Post; Weisses Lamm ; comfortable, and a civil host. Kehl, on the bank of the Rhine, at the confluence of the Kinzig and Scbut- ter with the Rhine, though dignified by the name of a town, resembles more nearly a village. It was once a strong fortress of the German empire, strength- ened as a bulwark against France, and has consequently been bombarded, burned, and razed more than a dozen times by French armies on crossing the Rhine. At present its fortifications are dismantled, and Germany is unpro- tected at this point. To guard against this, the German confederation are causing the towns of Gemersheim, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and Rastadt on the rt., to be converted into places of strength. As the French Custom-house on the opposite side of the Rhine is notori- ously strict, persons wishing merely to see Strasburg, and not to penetrate further into France, had better leave their baggage at Kehl. The distance to Strasburg is nearly 4 miles. From Kehl omnibuses constantly ply to Strasburg. The gate at the end of the bridge of Kehl is closed soon after sunset. The Rhine opposite Strasburg is divided into 2 branches by an island, upon which stands the French Custom- house , and (1.) a little way beyond it, surrounded by willows, the monu- ment erected to General Dessaix, in- scribed with the words, “ a Dessaix, l’Armee du Rhin, 1800.” The island is connected with the main land by a bridge of boats on each side. After passing the second bridge, the road passes on the S. side of the Citadel of Strasburg, considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban ; and, a few hun- dred yards beyond it, reaches the gate of the city, where passports are de- manded. If the stranger do not intend to remain more than 12 hours in the town, his passport is kept for him at the guard-house till he returns, other- wise it is sent to the police. Near the Austerlitz gate, or Metzgerthor, by which the road from Kehl enters Stras-Baden. ROUTE 107.—-STRASBURG. 555 burg, is a milestone, inscribed “ Route de Paris d Vienne ! ” 10* Strasburg______Inns : Yille de Parisbest, a handsome new house, built 1848, — good cuisine : — Rothes Haus (Maison Rouge), on the Grande Place, good : La Fleur. Strasburg, capital of the ancient province of Alsace (Elzass), is a strong frontier fortress, with 68,000 inhab., (30,000 Protestants), and a garrison of 6000 men, even in time of peace; on the 111, which, on its. way to join the Rhine, at the distance of about a mile, intersects the town in all directions, in canals. Strasburg is the Argentoratum of the Romans. Though it has been united to France for more than a century and a half, and forms at present the chief town in the Dept, du Bas Rhin, yet it bears all the external aspect of a German town in the appearance of its streets and houses, and in the costume and language of its inhabitants. Louis XIV. got posses- sion of Strasburg, which was a Free Imperial oity of the German empire, in 1681, by an unwarrantable attack during the time of peace. The principal and most interesting building in the town is the Cathedral, or Munster, one of the noblest Gothic edifices in Europe, remarkable for its Spire, the highest in the world, rising 474 feet above the pavement; 24 feet higher than the Great Pyramid of Egypt, and 140 feet higher than St. Paul’s. The artist who designed this admirable masterpiece of airy open- work was Erwin of Steinbach: his plans are still preserved in the town. He died in 1318, when the work was only half finished : it was continued by his son, and afterwards by his daughter Sabina. The remains of this family of architects are interred within the cathedral. The tower was not com- pleted till 1439, long after their deaths, and 424 years after the church was commenced, by John Hultzof Cologne, who was summoned to Strasburg for this end. Had the original design been * The real distance Is 3} m.,—6 kilom.; 4 kilorn. extra are charged. carried into execution, both the towers would have been raised to the same height. A doorway in the S. side of the truncated tower leads to the summit of the spire. On the platform, about § of the way up, is a telegraph, and a station for the watchmen, who are set to look out for fires. (§ 43.) One of them will accompany any person who has permission from the Meair to mount the upper spire, and will unlock the iron grate which closes the passage. There is no difficulty or danger in the ascent to a person of ordinary nerve or steadiness of head; but the stonework of the steeple is so completely open, and the pillars which support it are so wide apart, and cut so thin, that they more nearly resemble a collection of bars of iron or wood ; so that at such a height one might almost fancy one’s self suspended in a. cage over the city ; and, if the foot were to slip, the body might possibly drop through the open fretwork. At the same time, the ela- borateness of the tracery, and the sharpness of the angles and ornaments, are proofs of the skill of the architects and the excellent materials he had chosen ; and it is only by a close in- spection that the delicacy of the work- manship can be truly appreciated. Within a few feet of the top, the wind- ing stair terminates, under a species of carved rosette. Several instances are recorc^d of persons who have either fallen, or have thrown themselves, off the top. The view of the multitude of rusty- coloured tiled roofs of the town is not very pleasing ; nor is it the bird’s-eye panorama of the rich district around, of the Rhine and Black Forest in Germany, and of the Vosges Moun- tains on the side of France, that will reward the adventurous climber; hut rather the exploit, the great elevation, and the near view which it affords of the steeple. Now, to descend to the body of the church. The exterior of the west end deserves the most minute exami- nation. “ The gigantic mass, over the solid part of which is thrown a netting of b b 2556 ROUTE 107.—STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. VIII. detached arcades and pillars, which, notwithstanding their delicacy, from the hardness and excellent preservation of the stone, are so true and sharp as to look like a veil of the finest cast- iron, contains a circular window 48 feet in diameter, and rises to the height of 230 feet; i. e., higher than the towers of York Minster.” — Hope's Architecture. The building,” says Mr. Whewell, “ looks as though it were placed behind a rich open screen, or in a case of woven stone. The effect of the com- bination is very gorgeous, but with a sacrifice of distinctness from the mul- tiplicity and intersections of the lines.” The nave was begun in 1015, and finished in 1275. The Romanesque choir (now repairing) is part of an older building, attributed to the time of Charlemagne. The most remark- able things in the interior are the vast and beautiful W. marigold window, the rich painted glass, executed in the 15th century, filling nearly all the windows; the Font in the N. transept, the Pul- pit of carved stone (date 1487), and the famous Clock in the S. transept, made by a living artist of Strasburg to replace an older one which had fallen to decay. The full .mechanism is set in motion at noon only. The S. transept is supported by a beautiful single pillar, ornamented with statues : above the Gothic, border, which runs along the wall, appears a statue of the architect of the Minster, Erwin of Stcinbach, carved by himself: he is interred here, and in 1835 his family tombstone was discovered in the little court behind the chapel of St. John. The Guild of Freemasons has existed at Strasburg since the foundation of the Minster, and is the parent of the lodges throughout Germany. The Frauenhaus, once a Nunnery, near the Minster, has an elegant Go- thic winding-stair of stone, and some curious sculpture. The Church of St. Thomas, appro- priated to the use of a Protestant con- gregation, contains the Monument of Marshal Saxe, the masterpiece of the sculptor Pigalle, erected to bis 'me- mory by Louis XV. It represents the General descending with a calm mien to the grave, while France, per- sonified in a beautiful female figure, endeavours to detain him, and at the same time to stay the threatening ad- vance of death. It is looked upon as a very successful effort of the chisel: there is a tenderness of expression about the female figure which is truly charmuig. Schopflin, and a brother of the pastor Oberlin, are buried in this church ; and there are one or two other small monuments. Two bodies, said to be of a Count of Nassau Saar- werden, and his daughter, are shown, on account of the wonderfully perfect state in which flesh and clothes have been preserved after the lapse of more than a century. This is truly a dis- gusting spectacle. The Academie Foyale, originally a Protestant school, founded 1538, raised to the dignity of an University in 1621, but suppressed at the Revolution, has produced several remarkable scholars, as Schdpfliu, Oberlin, Schweighauser, &c.: here also Gbthe completed his studies, and took his degree of Doctor in Laws, 1772. His residence at Stras- burg is admirably described in his auto- biography. The Academy possesses a Museum of Natural History, which ranks far higher than the common average of provincial collections. It is very com- plete in the productions of Alsace, and especially in the fossils of the gres bi- garre ; and there is a large series of the fossil plants discovered at Sulz les Bains and Miihlhausen. The botanical collection contains the section of the trunk of a silver fir, from the Hoch- wald, rnear Barr; its diameter was 8 feet.close to the ground, its height 150 feet. There are many other speci- mens of woods preserved in such a manner as not only to interest the botanist, but to be useful to the prac- tical man, to the carpenter and the like, by showing the texture and quality of the timber. The Public Library, of more than 100,000 vols., boasts of many literary curiosities: the principal are, the “ Landsberg missal ” of Herrade, Ab-Baden. ROUTE 107.— STRASBURG. ARSENAL. 557 bess of Holienberg, richly and co- piously decorated with illuminations and miniatures in the early Byzantine style, executed in 1180; a missal, written on purple vellum in silver let- ters ; many early printed books; Cicero, printed by Faust, 1465; a Bible, printed at Strasburg, 1466, by Egge- stein; Mentelin’s Bible, printed here in the same year. The eavliest attempt at printing was made at Strasburg (about 1436) by John Gutenberg, who finally brought his invention to perfection at Mayence. Peter Schoffer, who assisted him, and made many improvements, particularly in the casting of metallic letters, was a citizen of Strasburg. A bronze statue has been erected to him in a small place near the Cathedral. The pose and drapery are bad. A bronze statue of Gutenberg by David has been set up in the Place Gutenberg. Persons interested in military mat- ters will be disposed to visit the Arsenal of a fortress so important as Strasburg: it contains fire-arms for 155,000 men, and 952 pieces of cannon, 412 of which are required for the de- fence of the town and the citadels. There is a cannon foundry here, and one of the largest depots of artillery in France, By means of large sluices, constructed in the time of Louis XV. by Vauban, at the spot where the 111 enters the town, the country around Strasburg, between the Rhine and the 111, can be laid under water, and the city rendered unapproachable by an army, and almost impregnable. . The Seminairc is a huge and hand- some edifice, close to the cathedral: it was originally the Bishop’s palace. There is a good provincial Theatre here, near the. square called Broglie, from a governor of Alsace of that name: a very splendid Synagogue was erected, in 1834, by the Jews. It is curious to contrast the present with the former condition of that people in this city. Nowhere did they suffer more cruel or tyrannical persecutions. The street called Brand Strasse (Fire- street), was so named because, on the spot where the Prefecture now stands, a bonfire was made, in 1348, to burn the Hebrews; and 2000 of that de- voted race, accused of having poisoned the wells and fountains, and thus caused the plague which desolated the city about this time, were consumed in the flames. From henceforth no Jew was allowed to live within the walls ; and the summons of a horn, blown every evening from the Minster tower, com- pelled them all to depart. The body of General Kleber (a native of Strasburg), originally in- terred in the Minster, has been re- moved to a vault in the centre of the Place d’Armes (Paradeplatz), and a monument has been erected over it. Strasburg is famous for its Pates de foies gras, made of the livers of geese, which are enlarged to hn un- natural size by the cruel process of shutting the birds up singly in coops too narrow to allow them to turn, and stuffing them twice a day with maize. They are generally kept in a dark cellar, and the winter is the season for fattening them, coolness being essen- tial. There is such a coop in almost every house in the town. Sulphur or garlick is steeped in the water given to the birds to increase their appetite. Instances are known of a goose's liver which had attained the weight of 2 or even 3 lbs. Hummel, No. 9, Rue des Serruriers, is said to make good pates. The gates of Strasburg are shut at 10 o’clock, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The principal Promenade is the Ruprechtsau, an extensive space, laid out in walks and gardens, beyond the walls. Malleposte, daily to Paris in 36 hours, and diligence in 42 through Nancy (the Strasburg and Paris Railroad was opened from Paris to Meaux,44 kilom., in July, 1849.):—to Lyons (Malle- poste, in 27 hours) ; — to Landau in 12^hrs. (See Handbook for France.) The Ban de la Roche, the scene of the pastor Oberlin’s beneficent life and labours, is about 30 miles S. W. of Strasburg. (See French Hand- book.) b b 3558 ROUTE 108.—OFFENBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Sect. VIII. Railroad to Basle — see Handbook for France,—from Kehl to the Great Baden Railway. Steamers descend the Rhine from Strasburg or the bridge at Kehl, to Mannheim and Mayence daily. From Strasburg to Mannheim you go nearly as quickly by river as by rail (includ- ing 1 hour to and from the stations), viz. in 6^ hours, but it takes 2 long day£ to mount upwards from Mayence. ROUTE 108. OFFENBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN AND CONSTANCE, BY THE KINZIG-THAL AND DONAUESCH1NGEN. 22 Germ, miles = 102 Eng. miles to SchafFhausen. Thence to Con- stance, 6^ Germ. m. = 26^ Eng. m. Eilwagen daily from Offenburg to SchafFhausen in 15£ hrs„ and to Con- stance, in 19^ hours. OfFenburg — Inn, Die Fortuna (Route 105. p. 544.), is situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig. This, stream descends from the Black Forest, and joins the Rhine at Kehl. The scenery at its upper extremity is very pleasing, though in- ferior to that of the Hollenthal (Rte. 109.). 2 m. beyond OfFenburg, near the pretty village of Or.tenburg, the modern Gothic Castle of the Russian Baron Bergholz is conspicuous on the left of the road, upon an emiritence overlooking the mouth of the Kinzig Thai. The first small town on the route is Gengenbach : it has 2000 inhab., and an old monastery, now secularised, with a fine church attached to it. 2£ Bieberach. The scenery from Bieberacli to Hornberg is very pic- turesque, almost romantic. The road passes through Steinbach and Hass- lach, on the left bank of the Kinzig, before reaching 2^ Hausach. Inn comfortable and clean. — F. S. The ruined castle anciently belonged to a branch of the family of Fiirsten- berg, who were seigneurs of the town. A road turning off on the left conducts to the baths of Rippoldsau. (Hand- book, South Germany. Our road, continuing to the right, passes through a country which has quite a Swiss character. The broad- roofed wooden houses, the costume of the people, and, above all, the frequent occurrence of goitre, tend to increase the resemblance. 1^ Hornberg—Inns; Post, good: comfortable sleeping quarters; Bar (Bear). This little town is beautifully situated under a height, crowned by an old donjon keep, and at the foot of the main chain of the Black Forest range. The skeleton of these moun- tains is granite ; and they attain their greatest elevation (4616 feet above the sea) near Feldberg. The new line of road to Tryberg avoids a wearisome ascent and uninter-' esting country, being carried .up the valley of the Gutach, one of the most sequestered and beautiful in the Black Forest, and through a gorge, being partly hewn in the rock, to Tryberg. The posthouse (Ba- densche Hof), the best on the line, good, rather dear, is at a little distance from the village, of 800 inhab., which lies off the road in a very romantic si- tuation, hemmed in by high precipices, from one of which, l|- m. distant from the ipn, a pretty waterfall descends. Tryberg is the centre of a manufacture peculiar to the Black Forest, that of wooden clocks, exported to the number, it is said, of 200,000 yearly, under the name of Dutch clocks, not only throughout Europe, but even to Ame- rica and China. The sulphur-coloured straw-hats worn by the peasantry, are also made here. Beyond Tryberg there is a steep ascent. The Briegach, one of the head- waters of the Danube, rises within a short distance 6f l£ St. Georgen. Here is a Bene- dictine convent of great antiquity, one of the focuses of the civilisation of the surrounding district. It was burnt by a Duke of Wiirtemberg because the monks refused to adopt the Reforma- tion, but was soon succeeded by ano- ther. Ruins of the old convent exist.Baden. ROUTE 108.—SOURCE OF THE NECKAR. 55 9 The new road, which is excellent, ends at Peterzels, about a mile beyond St. Georgen. An almost continuous de> scent leads to 2 Villingen.—Inn, Sun (post). A market town, 3600 inhab., surrounded by bleak hills. It has the appearance of having been built on the site of a Roman encampment. It is a square crossed by 2 main streets at right an- gles, one passing through the centre of the square, the other somewhat on one side of it. There are 4 gates, one at each end of these streets. About 4 m. E. of Villingen, near a village called Swenningen, is the Source ■of the Neckar. This is indeed a land of fountains and of watercourses ; and though the height of the mountains is not great, and they have no glaciers, or perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed with large sup- plies the two principal rivers of Eu- rope. The flakes of winter snow which descend upon some of the ridges, nay, even the drops of rain falling on oppo- site sides of a house, in some situations, are destined to end their career at the two opposite extremities of a continent; and, while part And their way to the German Ocean, others, which reached the ground within a few feet of them, take an opposite course, and fall into the Black Sea. 2 Donaueschingen.—Inns: Schiitze; Poste (Falke). This town is the chief place of the small Landgraviate of Baar,*and contains 3053 inhab. The principal building is the Palace of the mediatised prince of Fiirstenberg, a plain modern edifice. In a corner of the garden, and be- tween the walls of the palace and the church, is a round basin filled with clear sparkling water, which may be seen bubbling up from the bottom. Its waters, running out of the basin, are conducted for about 50 yards, in a subterranean channel, into the Brieg- ach, which from that point receives the name of the Danube. This little basin, under the castle window, goes by the name of the Source of the Da- nube. The real origin of that river seems to have been involved in a por- tion of the same mystery which con- ceals the source of the Nile. The claims which the basin in the court- yard has to be considered the source are, that the name of Dahube is not given to the river until the waters of this little rill are received into it, and that the two upper streams, the Brege, whose fountain-head is at tbe Solitary chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. N.W. of the village of Furtwangen, and 25 m. from Donaueschingen, and the Briegach, rising near the convent of St. George, 20 miles off, in spite of the previous length of their course, are both liable to be exhausted by drought, until supplied by the rill from the cas- tle garden of Prince Fiirstenberg. The whole country round Donaues- chingen may be compared to a wet sponge, so abundant and numerous are the sources of water in springs, rills, ponds, and marshes, all of which go to swell the tide of the Danube. About a mile out of Donaueschingen, at the village of Hiilfingen, the road crosses the Brege, which in regard to its previous length may be looked on as the main'stream of the Danube ; the Briegach falls into it about a mile lower down. Eilwagen, in 9 hours, direct from. Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- singen (1£ Germ. m). Engen (2), where Moreau beat the Austrians, ,in 1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either side. The height of Howenhowen, an extinct volcano, once more vomited forth flames; but. in spite of the tre- mendous fire of the Austrian artil- lery planted on it, it was carried by the French. Radolfzell (3). Constance (si)- In the midst of the bare open coun- try, interspersed with tufts of furs, traversed on the way to Schaffhausen, a ruined castle is seen on a hill, with a village on the slope beneath it, at a little distance to the left of the road. b b 4560 ROUTE 108. —SCHAFFHAUSEN. CONSTANCE. Sect. VIII. Tills is .Furstenberg, which gives its name to the principality now media- tised. Riedbohringen is a small village. Bluraberg; a desolate-looking post-house. This stage is almost entirely occu- pied in the ascent and descent of a steep hill called the Rande. The view, from the top, near a wooden crucifix, is ch,arming. On the left are seen 3 singular mountains, which from their shape, may at once be known as ex- tinct volcanoes : they are called Hohen Stoffeln, Hohen Krahe, and Hohen- twiel. Further on, in the distance, a wide expanse of the Lake of Con- stance, with the towers of Constance itself, backed by the snowy mountains of Switzerland, rises to view. Half way down the hill is a row of small houses ; these are the Douane of the Baden frontier. (§ 32.) Immediately beyond them the traveller reaches Swiss ground, and the road passes through a little valley, completely Swiss in aspect as well as situation to 3 Schaffhausen (See Handbook for Switzerland). Inns: Weber’s, at the falls, nearly 2 miles from the town ; Couronne, good, and not expensive. There is a post-house in Schaff- hausen, which supplies horses on the road to Constance. The relays are lj Randegg. Here is the Baden custom-house. Near Singen (In?i poor and extor- tionate) you pass at the foot of Hohen- twiel. The castle is now dismantled. The lofty rock upon which it stands gives it the appearance of an Indian hill fort. 2j Radolfzell (Post-house, a very good inn). A desolate town, situated at the extremity of the branch of the Lake of Constance, called Unter See, with a fine church, in the true German Gothic style. “ In the broad part of the Rhine, where it is still rather a lake than a river, is the Isle of Reich- enau, anciently famed for a monastery, founded by one of the successors of Charlemagne, of which the Church (partly Romanesque) and Treasury remain. In the Treasury are to be seen, the shrine of St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a cope, a crozier, and a missal of the 10th century."—F. S. The scenery of the road which runs along the left bank of the Rhine from Schaffhausen to Constance is move pleasing than the above road, but there are no post horses on it. Petershausen, on the rt. bank of the Rhine opposite Constance, was origin- ally a free abbey of the empire. The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by a wooden bridge info 2^ Constance. — Inns : Hotel De- lisle, outside the ■ territory of the Customs League; Post ; (Goldner Adler, — Aigle d’Or) good; Brochet (Hecht), very good, looking over the lake, partly new, with very attentive landlord, Mr. Keppler, who is an ac- complished fisherman, and has excel- lent rods, nets, punts, and all .appliances for fishing, trolling, &c., which he lets out on moderate terms. He has also very extensive water privilege in and around Constance. Constance, a decayed city, of 7200 inhab., instead of 40,000, which it once possessed, is remarkable for its an- tiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since the 15th century. Although situated on the 1.. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected with the opposite shore by a long wooden covered bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at the W. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of Constance; its agreeable position and interesting historical associations make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls. It has of late, however, revived considerably; the government have formed, at a large expense, a Port on the lake, which fa- cilitates the navigation, while it is an ornament to the town. The Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun 1052, with fine open- work turrets in the W. end; the doors of the main W. portal between the two towers are of oak, curiously carved in compartments, with a representationBaden. ROUTE 108.—CONSTANCE. MINSTER. 561 of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The nave is supported by sixteen pillars, each of a single block, 18 ft. high, and dates from the 13th century; it is flanked by circular arches in the Romanesque style, and is very wide; the aisles are pointed. The spo't where the “ Arch- heretic Huss” stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is still pointed out as a stone in the centre of the nave near the pulpit. Robert Hal- lam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, under a tomb, which is very remarkable, as being of English brass; which is fully proved by the workman- ship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. He wears the Order of the Garter. The carved woodwork of the stalls of the choir is very fine. In the N. transept is a re- presentation of the death of the Virgin in figures of life size. The crypt is of the 10th or 11th cent. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled in with exquisitely beautiful tracery, are yet standing. The other sides were destroyed by fire in 1824. In an angle of the cloisters is a curious circular building in the pointed style, in the centre of which is a Gothic model of the Holy Sepulchre, used for Good Friday ceremonies, which is curiously ornamented with Scriptural figures. There are some curious relics in the Sacristy, as, one of the arrows which pierced St. Sebastian, skull of St. Conrad, enclosed in a silver figure, piece of the true Cross, &c.; also much fine Brabant lace, and a beautiful Gothic fire-place and piscina, superior to those at Cour- tray. In the Vestry-room above are a range of singular cupboards or presses of carved oak, none of a later date than the 15th cent. There is a beautiful view from the tower of the cathedral, E. over the lake, and mountains of Tyrol, and W. over the valley, of the Rhine. .The Dominican Convent, now a cot- ton-printing establishment, is very in- teresting. The place is still shown where Huss was confined, though the stone chamber itself has been removed (at least all that remained of it) to the Kaufhaus. The church forms a pic- turesque ruin, in the early style of German Gothic. The chapter-house is even older. The cloisters are per- fect. The little island upon which this building stands was fortified by the Romans, and a portion of the wall, towards the lake, can yet be discerned. In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 1388), looking towards the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sittings, 1414-18, in a large room sup- ported by wooden pillars. That famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christendom, including princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), pro- fessors of universities and doctors of theology (200), besides a host of am- bassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was convened for the pur- pose of remedying the abuses of the church ; and as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that a council of the church has received, by Divine right, ah authority in religious matters, even over that of the pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XI1I-, and by electing in their place Martin V. But there is one act of this council which fixes lasting and odious celebrity on it — the treacherous seizure and cruel mur- der of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the as- sembly. The chairs occupied by the emperor and pope, the Bible of Huss, a model of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which he was confined, of the same size as the original, and in which the actual door and other fragments have been in- corporated ; a car which is said to be that in which he was drawn to execu- tion ; the figure of Abraham which supported the pulpit in the Minster, 31 5562 ROUTE 109.—FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Sect. VIII. and which the people mistook for Huss, and defaced accordingly, and some other relics of the council, still remain in the hall, besides a collection of Ro- man and German antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood. 1 F. fr. is charged for admission. The /touse in which Huss lodged, bearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul’s Strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison, soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon, affording scarcely room to move, in the before-mentioned Do? minican Convent. The field outside of the town, in the suburb of Briihl, in which - he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and ex- ecutioners to admiration — nay, even the place where the stake was planted, are still pointed out; and rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger. In 1415 a perpetual treaty of peace (signed at Aarberg, 24 July 1415), was negotiated at Constance, between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss Confederation, which put an end to the contest for the liberty of the Swiss can- tons which began with the fight of Mor- garten (15 Nov. 1315), and was de- cided by that of Sempach (9 July 1386). Behind the Hecht inn, and dis- tinguished by an elegant Gothic bay window, is the house in which the Em- peror Sigismund lodged. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to jbe a bi- shopric. The spirit of industry is reviv- ing, and several manufactories of cotton, two of muslin, and one of silk, have re- cently sprung up. Petershausen, on the opposite bank of the Rhine, was until 1803 a Bene- dictine monastery ; it is now a chateau of the Grand Duke. It is still sur- rounded by its ancient fosse and ram- parts. 3 interesting Excursions may be made hence; to Reichenau (p. 560.), Mainau, and Heiligenberg. The island of Mainau, about 4 m. N. of Con- stance, is one of the prettiest private residences in Germany. It is well cul- tivated, yet with no want of trees, forming a nice little estate. The palace is very large; it was once a commandery of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, and retains a series of their portraits, and some good pictures of Miss Ellenried. From the balcony or from the terrace of the garden there is a magnificent view over the lake, of the mountains of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell, among which the Sentis is pre-eminent. Nearer at hand the cultivated German shores, with the towns of Morsberg, Friedrichshafen, &c., complete the picture. Mainau now belongs to the Countess Langen- stein: it is approached by a -wooden foot-bridge £ m. long, connecting it with the shore; there is an inn on the island. Diligences daily to Zurich, in 8£ hrs. ; Schaffhausen, in ; St. Gall, in 5; Donaueschingen, in 8 ; and Frei- burg, in 17. Steamers daily between Constance and the different ports of the lake. They correspond with the diligences to Milan, at Rorschach; with the Eil- wagen for Stuttgard at Friedrichshafen, and with that to Augsburg and Munich at Lindau:—thus maintaining a daily communication between Constance and these cities. A steamer also" to Schaff hausen in 3 hours, returning in 6, every day from April to October. The Lake of Constance is described in the Handbook fob Switzerland. ROUTE 109. FREIBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCHAFF- HAUSEN BT THE HOLLEKTHAL. I I Germ. m. =51 Eng. m. Eilwa- gen daily, one direct in 11 hours; the other, which makes a detour by Do- naueschingen, in 14^ hrs. A new road from Freiburg to Scbaffhausen has been for some time projected. Although theBaden. route 109.:—freiburg to schaffhausen. 563 distance is so small, the stages are so very tedious and hilly that at least 13 hours are occupied on the road travel- ling post, exclusive of all stoppages ex- cept the time spent in changing horses. The valley of the Treisam, commonly known as the Hollenthal, or Valley of Hell, is at its commencement near Freiburg a level and fertile plain of considerable width, bounded by gently sloping wooded hills. As you ascend, it gradually contracts, and, about 9 m. from Freiburg, assumes a character of romantic beauty and grandeur. Its charm lies in the rich foliage of the woods covering its steep sides, out of which project buttresses and pinnacles of bare rock, at the foot of which runs the Treisam, bordered with turf and studded with frequent water-mills. Even here, its scenery, though wild, exhibits none of those horrors which its name would seem to imply. It extends to Steig. Perhaps the most remarkable spot is that called the Hirschsprung. 5 Burg. Through this valley Mo- Teau executed his famous retreat of the Black Forest, with an army, in 1796, .and gained by it as high a reputation for military talent, as he would have acquired by a victory. The French Marshal Villars declined attempting this pass in 1702, saying he was “ not devil enough.” J Steig.—Inn, Post or Stern ( Star); clean accommodation and good fare, including capital trout, at a cheap rate. Immediately beyond the Star, the road begins to ascend a steep slope, which carries it out of the Hollenthal, leaving behind it the finest scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. is paid for an extra horse up the Hol- lensteig. The country which opens out beyond is called (Himmelreich) Kingdom of Heaven; but has no claim to the name except its elevation in contradistinction to the Hollenthal below. At the top the road divides into 2 branches; that on the left goes to Donaueschingen: we continue to follow the shortest and most direct. A small lake, called Titi See (Inn, Rossle), is passed on the right, and another equally steep hill succeeds, which must be surmounted before reaching 1J Lenzkirch. — Inns: Post, de- cent ; Cheval Blanc, good. Here many wooden clocks, for which the Black Forest is famed, are made : one may be bought for 4 fl. 2 Bondorf. This village was burnt down in 1827. [About 18 m. from this, and the same from Stiihlingen, lies the magnificent Benedictine Abbey of St. Blaize, now sequestrated, and turned into a factory, where spinning-jennies and fire-arms are made. The Church, built by Ixnard 1768-80, is a rotunda of somewhat larger dimensions than the Pantheon at Rome. On the dissolution of the monastery, the monks removed into Carinthia, taking with them the bones of some ancestors of the house of Habsburg, who had been buried in their abbey.] At the summit of the ascent which the road makes in this stage, the Lake of Constance may be descried in clear weather. Near the end of this stage is the castle of Hohen Lupfen, belonging to Prince Fiirstenberg, but inhabited only by a peasant. It occupies a most commanding position on the brow of a hill, at whose foot lies 2 Stiihlingen. — Inns: Post and Hirsch. A little further on the Wu- tach, a small stream, is crossed, which forms the boundary of Switzerland. 2J Schaffhausen. — Inn, Couronne, Weber’s Inn at the falls 2 m. from the town. (In the Handbook fob Switzek- LAND.) The left-hand road, leading out of the Hollenthal, conducts from Steig to 1 post. — Neustadt (Inn, Post; good). A town of 1500 inhab., on the Wutach. Here and in the neighbour- hood are manufactured numbers of the wooden clocks for which the Black Forest is famous. The inhabitants, an industrious race, employ themselves also in polishing garnets and crystals : as well as in rearing singing birds. A very excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is produced in this district. 1 £ post. — Loppingen ; — thence by lj Donaueschingen (Route 108.) to Schaffhausen.^ b b 6564 route 110.—heidelbe'rg to wurzburg. Sect. VIII. ROUTE 110. HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. 18| Germ, miles = 83 Eng. miles. Eilwagen daily, in about 15 hours. The road is very well kept, but billy and badly engineered. It may be posted in a day and a half. A Lohn- kutscher requires nearly two days, and charges (at Wiirzburg) 20 to 22 guild- ers, besides trinkgeld. Unfortunately there is no good sleeping-place half way. Mosbach is the best, but the distance thence to Wurzburg is too great for a single day’s journey with the same horses, except in the height of summer. There is nothing of par- ticular interest on the way except the scenery within a few stages of Heidel- berg. It is a charming drive along the Neckar to Neckar Gemund, where the road crosses the river and ascends to 2 Wiesbach. 2 Aglasterhausen. 2 Mosbach (several Inns which ap- pear respectable). The most consider- able town on the road, prettily situated on a tributary of the Neckar. Here is a fine large church. 2 Ober-Schefflenz.—Inn, Post; bad. 2 Buchen. 2 Hardheim. — Inn, zum Ochsen. 2£ Bischoffsheim.—Inn, Badenscher Hof. “ The Bavarian frontier (§ 76.) is crossed within about 6 m. of Wurz- burg. A fine view is obtained of the town in approaching it. It bears some resemblance to Prague, though very inferior.” — Pr. F. 4 "Wurzburg, in Handbook for South Germany1. (Route 167.) CORRECTION. P. 169. Waterloo. Serjt-Major Cotton died 24th June, 1849.INDEX *** In order to facilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are inserted in the Index twicer thus the road from Hamburg---------to Berlin is also mentioned under the head Berlin ------* to Hamburg. Such reversed Routes are mixed in the Index with an asterisk * to distinguish them. Acherx, Adenau, 304. Adersbach, rock labyrinth of, 427. Aglasterhausen, 564. Anr, river, mouth of, 272. ----excursion up the valley, 302. — Ahrweiler, 303. — Ahrbleichart wines, 303. Aix-la-Chapelle, 244. Con- gresses -of, 245. Hotel de Ville, 245. Cathedral, 245. Mineral springs and baths, 247. New Redoute, 248. Theatre, Boulevard, 248. — to Cologne, 249. ----to Dusseldorf, 261. ----* to Brussels, by Maas- tricht and Louvain, 193. - by Liege and Namur, 184. 189. to Liege, by Battice, 189. ----to Treves, 320. Alberndorf, 431. Alexisbad, 401. Alf, 316. Aiken, 318. Alkmaar, 69. Alost, 124. Alphen, 84. Alsenz valley, 514. Alt-Breisach, 547. Altenahr, 303. Altenbcrg on t g on the Latin, 506. Altenberg, abbey of, 260, Altenburg in Saj xony, 478. Altenkirchen, 326. Altona, 328. 332., Alzey, 516. Amber fishery on the Baltic, 417. Amerongen, 89. Amersfoort, 77. Amsterdam, 52. Palace, 53. Churches, 54. Picture Gal- lery, 35. Charitable insti- tutions, 57. Spin House, 58. Felix Mentis, 59. Dock- yard, 60. Water boats, 62. Manufactures, 62. ----to Brceck and Saardam, 63. * Amsterdam to Texel and Holder, 71. ----to Utrecht and Nyme- gen, 73. ----to Arnheim, 75. ---- to Groningen and Fre- deriksoorJ, 77. ----to Bremen, 82. Anclam, 409. Andernach, 273. Castle of Trifels, 529. Antwerp, 144—158. Cathe- dral and works of Rubens, 145. Spire, 148. Churches — of SL Jacques, 149.; St. Paul, 150. ; St. Andrew, 150.; Augustins, 150.; St. Anthony, 151. Museum of pictures, 151—155. Docks, 155. Cita- del and siege, 156. Hotel de Ville, and Bourse, 157. Railroad, 158. ---- siege by the Duke of Parma, 123. ----* to London, 120. ----to Rotterdam, by land, 90. ----------------by water, 92. ----------------by water, 92. ----to Brussels, 159. -—* Ghent, 143. ----to Turnhout, 158. Apollinarisberg, 271. Appeldoorn, 82. Appenweier, 544. Arbergen, 406. rgen, 406. Ardenne, seat of King Leo- pold, 199. Ardennes, the forest of, 199. Argenfcls, 273. Arkona in Rugen, 412. Arlon, 196. Arminius, colossal statue of, S82. Armouries: ----Berlin, 352. ----Dresden, 456. ----Urbach, 532. — Wartburg, 437. ----Schweidnitz, 428. Arnau, 429. Arnhem, 75. • Arnhem to Utrecht, 75. ----to Cologne, 239. Arnsberg, 375. Arnstadt, 484. Arnstein Schloss, 508. Arolsen, 375. Artaveldt, James and Philip, van, 138. Assche, 124. Assen, 80. Assmanshausen, 290. Ath, 115. Audenarde, 112. Auerbach, 534. Auerstadt, 440. *> \ Bacharach, 287. Bacon, Lord, on Travel, ix. Baden, duchy of, 484. 543. Baden Baden, 548. Inns, 548. Beauties of situation, 548. Hot springs, 548. New Schloss, Secret Tribunal, and its dungeons, 550. Church, 551. Convent, 552. Con- versat sician Excursions around; Alt Schloss, 551. Ebcrsteinburg, Lichtenthal, Gernsbach, and Murgthal, 552. ----to Wildbad, 554. ----* to Carlsruhc, 547. —r— to Strasburg, 554. Badenweiler, 547. Baggage, 214. Ballenstadt, 401. Ban de la Roche, 557. Barmen, 374. Bastei, The, 468. _Bastogne, 196. Baths : ----Aix-la-Chapelle, 247. ----Alexisbad, 401. ----Baden Baden, 547. ----Bertrich, 307. ----Briickenau, 435. —:— Dobberan, 337. — Ems, 489. — Hof-Geismar, 388. ----Homburg, 511. ----Liebenstein, 479. ----Liebewerda, 424. vent, 552. Con- versations Haus, 549. Phy- s, Post Office, 551. id: Alt566 INDEX* Baths — continued. — Putbus, 410. ----Pyrmont, 388. ----Iteinerz, 431. ■ Salzbrunn, 428. ----Schandau, 470. ----Scheveningen, 39. ----Schlangenbad, 494. ----Schwalbach, 492. ----Warmbrunn, 425. Baumans and Biels-Hohle, 399. Bautzen, 422. Bavarian (?) broom girls, 383. Beemster in N. Holland, 72. Belgium, 94. Introductory , information, 94—107. Ge- neral view of, 99. Pass- ports, 94. Money, 95. Post- ing, 95.; other modes of travelling, 97. Railroads, 97. Cities of, and architecture, 101. Bensheim, 534. Berg, ancient duchy of, 374. Jfergstrasse, l Bergues, 117. Berlin, 341. Inns, 341. Post- Office— Droskies, 341. So- ciety in, 342. Unter den Linden, 343. Brandenburg gate, 343. Monuments, 343. Churches, 343. Royal*Pa- lace, 342. Kunst Cabinet, 344. . King’s private resi- dence, 346. New Museum, -vases, and bronzes, 346. Sculptures, 347. Pictures, 348 — 350. 4 Royal library, 350. University, 351. Mu- seum of natural history, 351. Egyptian museum, 351. Ar. senal, '352. Iron foundery, 353. The Gewerbe Schule, .554. Theatres, 354. Music, Sing-Academie, 354. Coli- seum, 354. Winter gardens, 354. Restaurateurs, 354. Confectioners, 354. Best shops, 355. Post Office, 355. Environs, 355. Tegel, 355. Tivoli and Kreutzberg, 356. Park, 356. Reviews, 357. ----* to Hamburg, 339. ----to Potzdam and Leipzig, 357. 361. ----to Dresden, 366. — * to Dusseldorf, by Hesse Cassel and Elberfeld, 373. ----*to Hanover, 366. ----* to Cologne, by Minden, 366. ■ - * by Magde- burg, Brunswick, and Pa- derborn, 376. — to Stettin and Swine- munde, 407. ---- to Dantzig, 412. ; and Konigsberg, 415. ----to Bromberg, 418. — to Frankfurt on the Oder, and Breslau, 419. — to the Riesengebirge, Hirschberg, and Warm- brunn, 424. Bemau, 407. Bernburg, 363. Berncastel, 314. Bertrich baths, 307. Betuwe, 89. Beverungen, 404. Beverwyk, 69. Bibericn, 297. Bielefeld, 367. Biervliet, 122. Bies Bosch, 86. Bingen Loch, 291. Bingen, 292. St. Roch’s Chapel, 293. —, excursions from, 293. ---- to Mayence, by Ingel- heim, 512. ---- to Mayence up the Rhine, 295. ----to Kreuznach and Saar- briick, 513. — to Treves, 325. ----* to Coblenz, 292.. Birkenfeld, 515. Bischoflsheim, 564. Bischofsworda, 422. Bitburg, 322. Black Forest at Baden, 551. ----(the Kinzig, 558. ----'sources of the Danube in, 559. Blaize, St., abbey of, 563. Blankenau, 404. Blankenburg, 400. Bleichert wine, meaning of, Blouse, use of a, xxvii. Bliicher, 420. His grave. 428. Bodenfelde, 404. Bodenwerder, 404. Bois le Due, 92. Bommel, 88. Bondorf, 563. Bonn, 266. University, 266; Museum, 266. Popplesdorf, 267. Kreutsberg, 268. " ----to the Valley of the Ahr, 302. ----to the Eifel, and Lake of Lach, 304. Boppart, 284. Borcette, 248. Borsdorf apples, 445. Bouillon, 200. Boulder stones, 339. Bouvignes, 198. Braekel, 378. Braine le Comte, 201. Brandenburg, 360. Brasses, engraved monu- mental, at Bruges, 128. At Lubeck, 335. At Stralsund, 410. Nymegen, 76. Braubach, 283. Brauneberger wine, 314. Braunsberg, 378. Breda, 90. Bredcrode, 68. Brege river, 559. Breisach, alt, 547. Bremen, 380. Territory and commerce, 381. Bleikeller, Rath haus, 381. Bremerha- fen, 382. ----* to Dusseldorf, 380. ----* to Hamburg and Olden- burg, 339. * Bremen to Amsterdam, 82. Breslau, 421. Churches, 421. University, 422. Commerce, wool fairs, 422. ----* to Dresden, 422. ----to the Riesengeberge,424. — to Glatz and Prague, 430. — to Schweidnitz and Land- shut, 428. ----* to Berlin, 419. Briegach, 558. Brielle, 25. Brilon, 375. Brockedon’s Advice to Tra- vellers, xiii. Brocken, ascent of, 398. "Spec- tre of the, 398. Witches, 398. View from — seldom seen, 399. Broek, 65. Brohl, trass mills of, 273. ----, valley of, 273. 304. Bromberg, 418. — to Dantzig and Berlin, 418. Broom girls, 383. Briickenau baths, 435. Bruchsal, 541. Bruges, 126. Les Halles, 131. ae vine, izu. Academy, 130. Palais de Justice, 130. — * to Calais, 119. —"to Courtrai, 142. ---to Ghent, 132. Brunnen of N Brunnen of Nassau, 485—499. Brunswick, 368. New Palace, 368. Museum, 368. Albert Durer’s St. John in the Wilderness, 369. Cathedral, 369. Black Brunswickers, 369. — to Berlin, by Magdeburg, 366. Brussels, 162—169. Park, 162. King's Palace, 163. Palace of the Prince of Orange, 163. Chambers, 163. Museum, 163. Library, 164. Hotel de Ville, 164. Broodhuis, 165. Cathedral of St. Gu- dule, 165. Notre Dame de Chapelle, 166. Shops, 167. Lace, 167. Theatre, cafes, post-office, diligences, 167- Promenades and environs, 168. Excursion to Waterloo, l68.j to Tervueren, 190. ----* to Calais, by Lille, 107— 109. — * to Malines and werp, by railroad, 159. ---- to Waterloo, Namur, tee., 168. ---- to Lidge, by Louvain, 189. —;— to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Maestricht, 193. ---- to Mons and Valen- ciennes, 201. “ Bubbles,” utility of the, 491. Biickeberg, 368. Buhl, 544. Butzbach, 383. Bunzlau, 420. Burg, 361. and Ant-1ND£X« 567 Burtscheid, SIS. Biitgenbach, 320. Cadsand, 121. Calais, 107. ----to Brussels, by Lille, 107. to Courtrai, by Dunkirk, Ypres, 116. ---- to Ostend and Bruges, ' 119. ----to Charleroi and Namur, 195. and, IS. berg, and Camperdown, 68. Canals in Holland. Canal, Great, of North Hol- land, 64. Carden. 317. Carlsbcrg, 431. Carlsbuhe, 541. Its- origin, palace, 543. Bleythurm, 542. Theatre, other buildings, 542. — to Baden, 547. ----to Strasburg, 554. —— to Basle, 543. _ * to Heidelbi Frankfurt, 543. Carriage, travelling, xxiv. Carriages, duty on, 107. Cassel in France, 117* Cassel, Hesse, 385. Palace, museum, 385. Pictures, 386. Marble bath, 386. Wilhelmshohe, 387. -— to Berlin, 375. ----to Hanover, 388. 391. — to Gottingen and the — Hartz, 393. —— * to Dusseldorf, 373. — * to Frankfurt, 383. — to Eisenach and Mei- nineen, 479. Caste! on the Rhine, S98. 512. Castles on the Rhine, 287. Catsbach, 420. Caub, 287. Caxton, William, 252. Celle, 338. Charlemagne’s grave, 245. Charlemont, 199. Charleroi, 195. Charles V., 139. Charlottenburg, 356. Chaudfontaine, 184. Chemnitz, 476. Chimes, or carillons, 102. Chokier, 179. Churches, English, abroad,— Rotterdam, 28. Amsterdam, 55. Ghent, 141. Brussels, 168. Baden, 550. Ham- burg, 330. Circles of Germany, 217. Circular notes,:—' Clausthal, 395. Mines, 395 sm Cleves, 242. Clothes for travelling, xxvi, Cobern, 319. Co: School of fines, 395. Reservoirs, nelting-houses, 396. oblenz, 277—281. Fortifica- tions of, 277. Good head- quarters for travellers on the Rhine, 281. Church of St. Castor, and fountain, 278. Courts of justice, 279. Plea- sant excursions from, 280. Coblenz to Mayence, up the Rhine, 282. ----to Munster-Mayfeld, and Elz, 320. ----to Treves, by post-road, -, * up the Mo- selle, 313. ---- to Frankfurt, by the Brunnen of Nassau, 487. Coburg — described, 480. ----* to Eisenach, 481. ----* to Gotha and Gottingen, 481. ----* to Leipzig by Rudol- stadt, 482. Cochem, 317.' Coins, tables of foreign, xxxix —xliii. Colberg, 409. Cologne, 251. Cathedral, 254. Shrine of the three kings, 255. Dom-bild, 255. Church of SL Peter, and Rubens’ Crucifixion,1 256. Church of St. Ursula and 11,000 Vir- gins, 256. Santa Maria, 257. St. Gereon, 258. Museum of pictures, 259. Eau de Cologne, 260. ----to Frankfurt, by Siegburg and Limburg, 325. —---to Altenberg Abbey, 260. —— • to Aix-la-Chapelle, 249. ----to Bonn and Coblenz, up the Rhine, 261. —— * to Dusseldorf, 241. ---- to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 373. —---to Berlin, by Minden, 366. ----to Brunswick, 376. — to Hanover, 366. — * to Nymegen and Rot- terdam, by the Rhine, 242. --------* by land, 242. Commissionaire, xxviii. Constance — described, 560. 561. ’onsh Minster, 560. ----council of, ----*to Schaffhausen, 562. Continent, landing on the, xxviii. Conz, 197. Copernicus at Frauenberg, 415. Corneli. Munster, 318. Corvey, 378. 404. Coslin, 409. Cothen, 363. Couriers, xxi. —— at Calais, 109. Courtrai, 118. Crefeld, 243. Cconberg, 510. Cudowa, 431. Culm, 415. Cus, 314. Custom-houses abroad, xxviii.; in England, xxix. ----of Prussia, 235. Custrin, 412. Cuxhaven, 328. Dahn, 529. Danube, source of the, 559. Danzig, 413. Granaries, ca- thedrals, 413. Picture by Van Eyck, 414. Arthus Hof, fortifications of, 414. Duke of, 414. ----to Maricnburg and Ko- nigsberg, 415. ---*to Berlin, 413. * by] Broin- dt, 530. Catholic » berg, 418. Darmstad Church, palace, pictures, 530. Fossils, 531. Theatre, Exercier Haus, 531. Gar- dens, Casino, wild boars, 531. ----to the Odenwald, 530. ----to Heidelberg and Carls- ruhe, 530. ----* to Frankfurt, 530. Daun, 324. Delft, 29. Dendermonde or Termonde railroad, 142. Dennewitz, 361. Dessau, 363. Detmold, 383. Dcutz, 260. Good inn, 251. Deux Ponts, 529. Deventer, 82. Deynze, 112. Diebelich, 319. Diepholz, 380. Diez, 508. Dinant, 198. — to Givet, 198. ----to Hans-sur-Lease, Bouil- lon, 199. Dinglingen, 545. Dirschau, 413. Dixmude, 120. Dobberan, 337. Doesborg, 90. Dollars, Prussian, 235.: Saxon, 434. Dolme, 404. * Donaueschingen, source of Danube, 559. — to Schaffhausen, 559. ----* to Olfenburp, 558. ----to Freiburg, 562. Donnersberg, 516. Dort, or Dordrecht, 86. ----Synod of, 86. Dortmund, 366. Douai, 111. Drachcnfels, 270. Dreiser Weiher, 324. Dresden, 447. Post-office, 447. Elbe bridge, 447. Churches and church music, 448. Terrace of Bruhl, 448. Palace, 448. Collections — mode of obtaining admis. sion, 448. Green vaults, 449. Picture gallery, 452. Plaster casts, 455. Zwinger, 455. Rustkammer, or ar- moury, 456. Museum of natural history, 459. En- gravings and drawings, 460. Japanese palace, 460. An- tiquities, 460. Porcelain, 462. Library, 460. Thea- tre, 463. Clubs, shops, 463. Struve’s Spa, 463. Environs, 464. Moreau’s monument.568 INDEX. 464-. Dance of Death, 464. Baths of Link, 455. Schil- sumi Weber’s house, 465. Dresden to the Saxon Swit- ler’s summer-house, 465. ber’s h RESDEN to zerlalld, 465—473. ----*to Berlin, 366. ----to Breslau, 422. — * to Leipzig and Frank- furt, 435. 445. ----to the Bastei, 467. ----* to Schandau, 472. — to Hof, 473. — to Flauensche Grund and Tharand, 473. Driburg, 378. Duisburg, 240. Diilmen, 370. ' Dunes of Holland, 15. Dunkirk, 116. ----to Bruges, 119. Diiren, 250. Diirkhcim, 527- Durlach, 541. Dusseldorf, 241. School of painting, 241. ----to Berlin, by Elbcrfeld, 373. ----to Cologne, 242. *to Nymegen and Arn- hem, 239. ----to Bremen, by Munster, 378. ----* to Rotterdam, 242. Dutch manners, peculiarities of, 19. Dutch clocks, 558. Dutch school of art, 17. Dykes of Holland, 9. Eberbach, 296.495. Cellars of, 297. Eberstein, Neu, 553. Ebernburg, Sickingen’s Castle, 514. Eckhardtsberge, 440. Ehrenhreitstein, 276. Ehrenberg, 318. Ehrenfels, 291. Eibenstock, 478. Eifel, the Upper, 323. ----, the Lower, 304. Inhabi- tants of, 323. ----, excursions in, 305. Eitenach,i36. Wartburg, 436. Eisleben, Luther’s birth-place, 376. Elbe, mouth of the, 327- Sources of, 427. In Saxony, the most beautiful parts of its course, 465. ----from Schandau to Dres- den, 472. Elderfeld, 373. —- to Berlin, 373. -— to Hanover, 338. ----* to Cologne, 376. Elbing, 415. Elbingerode, 399. Electors of Germany, 218. Elfeld, 297. Eltvillc, 297. Etz, castle of, 317. Emden, 81. Emmendingen, 545. Emmerich, 240. Ems, 487. —- to Frankfurt, 487. Engen, 559. Rogers, 275. ----(Westphalia), 367. Enghien, 115. Enghien, Duke, his treach- erous seizure, 545. Enkhuisen, 72. Eppstein, 509. Erbach, 296. Erbach in the Oldentvald, 533. Erfurt, 438. Erpeler Lei, 272. Erzgebirge, 478. Eticnheim, 545. Extersteine, 382. Extra post, 209. 236. Eyck, Van, school of, 103. Paintings of, at Berlin, 349. At Ghent, 135. Facliingen, 508. Falkenlei, 307. Falkenstein, 510. Favourite chateau, 543. Fees of Prussian physicians, 228. Fehrbellin, 340. Feldberg, 510. Fire watch, 230. Fischbach, 427. Kischbeck, 405. Flemish School of Painting, 103—107. Floreffe, 195. Flushing, 121. Fontenoy, 115. Franchimont, 185. Franeker, 81. Frankenthal, 520. Frankfurt on the Main, 501—505. Inns, Old and .New Town, 501. Cathedral, 501. Homer, 502. Saalhof, 5ul. Staidal Museum of pictures, 502. Senkenberg Museum, 503. Danneker's statue of Ariadne, 503. Public library, Birthplace of Gothe and cf the Roths- childs, 504. Jews, 504. Diet, Cemetery, 506. Offenbach, 506. ----to Leipzig, by Gotha, Er- furth, Weimar, 435. ----to Cassel and Berlin, 383. ----to Cassel and Hanover, 383. ----* to Coblenz and the Brunnen of Nassau, 487. ■ * to Mayencc, 512. — *to Homberg and the Taunus, 509. iaunus, 509. ----to Basle, by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 530. ----to Baden-Baden, and Strasburg, 547. 554. Frankfurt on the Oder, 419. ----to Breslau, 419. ____to Hirschbcrgand Warm- brunn, 424. Frauenberg, 415. Frederick the G real, at Rheins- berg, 340. Relics of, at Ber- lin, 345. His tomb and sword, 358. 'His palace of Sans Souci, 359. His death, 359. Frederiksoord, pauper colonies of, 79. Freiberg, 474. Church, 474. School of Mines, 475. Mines and miners, 475. Freiburg in Breisgau, 545. Beautiful Minster, 545. Uni- versity, 546. ----to Schaffhausen, by the valley of Hell, 562. ----to Basle, 547. Freyr, 198. Friedburg, 383. Friedrichsstein, 274. Friedland.Wallenstein’sCastle, 423. Friesdorf, 268. Friesland, 80. Fulda, 415. Fumes, 119. Furstenburg, 404. ~ irstenburg, 559. Palace of Prince Furstenburg, ice, 559. Furstenstein Castle, 428. Gadebusch, 340. Geilnau, 508. Geisenheim, 295. Geldern, 242. Gelnhausen, 435. Genappe, 175. Gera, 484. Germany. — Preliminary In- formation, 203—233. Pass- ports, 20?. Inns, 204 Tables-d’h6te, 205. Beds, 206. Valets de Place, 207. Custom-houses, 208. Modes of travelling, 209. Schnell- posts, 212. Voiturier, 213. Peculiarities of German manners, 220. Public gar- dens and taverns, 222. Kirmes, 223. Turnpike- men, 224. Handwerksbur- schen, 224 Watering places, 225. Towns, 230. Burial grounds, 232. German doctors’ fees, 228. Germersheim, 526. ----to Strasburg, 526. Gernrode, 402. Gcrnsbach, 553. Gcrolstein, 324. Gheel, 158. Ghent, 132—142. Belfry, 134. Church of St Bavon, 134. Paintings of Van Eyck, 135. University, 137. rHOtcl de Ville, 137. Museum, 137. Marche ou Vendredi, 137. The English at Ghent, 138. Charles V., 139. Citadel, 140. Beguinage, 140. By- loque, 141. House of Cor- rection, 141. ----* to Bruges, 132. ----to Antwerp, 143. ----*to Calais, 116. ----* to Oudenarde, 112. Ghistelles, 120. Giessen,—University, &c.,384INDEX. 569 Giessen, descent of theLahn from, 506. Gillenfeld, 325. Gitschin, 429. Givet, 199. Glatz, 430. Gluckstadt, 328. Gnadau, 36o. Goar, St., £85. Godelheiin, 404. Godesberg, 268. ----to the Seven Mountains, 269. ----to the Ahr Valley, 303.) Gothe, the poet’s birth-place, 504. House and collections, 410. Goldener Aue, 376. Gonriorf, 319. Gorcum, 87. Gorlitz, 423. Goslar, 397. Cathedral and altar of Krodo, 397. Ram- melsberg, 397. Gotha, 437. Gottingen, 391. University, 391. Library and Museum, 392. ----to the Hartz, 393. ----* to Cassel, 391. Gouda, 83. Painted glass at, 83. Grafenberg, 431. Graudenz, 415. Gravelines, 116. Greifswald, 409. Grohude, 405. Groningen, 81. Groschen, 235. Gute gros- chen, 434. Gross- Gerau, 531. Gross-Gorchen, battle of, 442. Grotenberg, 382. Grotius, escape from prison, 87. Guben, 420. Guilders, Dutch, 2. Gustavus Adolphus landing in Germany, 409. His death at Lutzen, 441. On the Rhine, 518. Gutemberg, the inventor of printing, 301. Gutenfels, 286. Giitersloh. 357. Haarburg, 338. Haarlem, 46. Organ, 46. Tu- lips, 47. Siege, 49. Lake of, 50. —— to Amsterdam, 51. — to Alkmaar and Helder, 67. Hagelskauie, 324. Hagen, 374. Hagenossen, 405. Hagenow, 337. Hague, 31—3! Picture G :so Museum, 35. His- torical relics, 35. Storks, Iague, 31—39. Binnenhof, 31. Picture Gallery, 32. Ja- panese Museum, 35. Hir 38. Theatre, 38. House in the wood, Scheveningen, 38. ----to Utrecht, 83. Hal, 201. Halberstadt, 403. Halle, 364. Salt Springs, 365. University, 364. Orphan House, 3415. Halloren, 365. Hambach, 528. Hamburg, 328—333. Money, 328. Costumes, 330. Build- Institutic ings, 330. Institutions, 334. Jungfcrnstieg,331. Theatre, 331. Ramparts, 331. En- virons, 332. * Hamburg to London, 327. to Lubec, 333. ---to Bremen, 339. ---io Hanover, 338. ---to Dobberan and Rostock, 337. ---to Berlin, 339. Hameln, 389. Hanau, 435. Handwerks-burschen, 224. Hanover, 389—391. Palaces and Church, 390. Library, 390. Picture Gallery, 390. Leibnitz's Monument, 390. Waterloo Monument, 390. Herrnhausen, 390. ---to Bremen, 393. ---to Brunswick, 338. * Hanover to Hamburg, 338. ---* to Gottingen, 391. ---* to Frankfurt by Cassel, 391. ---* to Berlin, 339. ---* to Cologne, by Minden, 366. ---* to Pyrmont, 388. Hans sur Lesse, cave of, 199. Harlingen, 80. Hartekamp, 48. Hartz, the, 393. 397. Gene- ral account of, best mode of ' de- il account of, best mo visiting, exaggerated scriptions of its scenery, 393. Roads, 394. Mines, 395. 396. Hartzburg, 371. Hartzgerode, 401. Hattenheim, 296. Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 291. Hausach, 558. Heerstelle, 404. Hehlen, 404. Heidelberg, 535 — 541. Its misfortunes, 536. Univer- sity and library, 536. Club, 537. Churches, 537. Olym- pia Morata’s grave, 537. Castle, 537. Tun, 538. Gar- den, walks, Wolfsbrunnen, 539. 540. Hirschgasse, 540. Konigstuhl, 540. ----to Carlsruhe and Baden, 541. ----*to Schwetzingen and Mannheim, 521. ----* to Darmstadt and Frank- furt, 530. — to Wurzburg, 564. Heidenmauer, 527. Heiligenstadt, 375. Heimberg, 289. Heisterback, ruined abbey of, 269. Helder, 70. Great dyke of, 70. Helder to Amsterdam, 71. Heligoland, 327. Hell, Valley of, 563. Helvoetsluys, 25. Heppenheim, 535. ■ Herford, 367. Herring Fishery, 60. Herrmann’s Monument, 3S2. Herrnhausen, 390. Herrnhut, 429. Herstal, 183.1 Hcrtogensbosch, 92. Hertzberg, 366. Heuscheuer, 431. Hiddensoe, 412. Hildburghausen, 480. Hildesheim, 392. Hillesheim, 320. Hirniskretschen, 471. ' Hirschberg, 425. Hochheim vineyards, 512. Hochkirch, battle of, 423. Hochstein, 470. Hof, 477. Hofgeismar, 388. Hoegne, Valley of, 185. Hohen Syburg, 240. Hohentwiel, 560. Hohnstein, 470. Holland, introductory infor- mation, 1—25. Passports, 1. Money, 2. Roads, posting, railroads, 2. Trekschuiten, 4. General description of, 5. Dykes of, 9. Canals, 12. Gardens, 16. Paint- ings, 17. Manners of the inhabitants, 19. Herring Fishery, 60. Holland, North, 63—73. Hollenthal, 563. Holzapfel, 508. Homburg, Hesse, 511. ----in Rhenish Ba- Hoorn, 72. Horn, 382. 383. Hornberg, 558. Houffalize, 196. varia, 517. in t Hoxter, 378, ----to Pyrmont, 388. 106. Hougoumont, 173. House in the wood, Hague, 38. Hox‘— m" Hoya, 406. Hub-bad, 544. Hubertsburg, 445. Hubert, St, 200. Hudibras, Author of, account of Holland, 8. Hundsriick, 325. Hues, John, trial and execu- tion of, 562. Huy, 178. -Igel, Roman monument at, 312. Ilmenau, 484. IlseDburg, 397. Ingelheim, palace of Charle- magne, 512. Interment, prevention of pre? mature, 233. Iserlohn, 374. Jager, the Wild, legend of, 534. Jauer, 420.570 INDEX. Jemappes, 203. Jena, University, 483. Johann-Georgenstadt, 478. 1 Jokannisberg, 295. Wine, 295. Juliers, 261. Jung Bunzlaw, 429. Jiiterbogk, 361. Kahla, 482. Kaiserslautern, 516. Kamburg, 482. . Kampen, 90. Karlshafen, 388.404. Katsbach, battle of the, 420. Katwyk, the Rhine at, 89. Kehl, 554. Steam-boat from, 526. Kellburg, 323., Kemnade, 404. Kenzingen,545. Kidrich, 297. Kiel, 333. Kienast, castle and legend, 426. nes, Klausthal, 395. Klopstock’s grave, 333. Birth- place, 403. Koln, 251. Konigswintcr, 269. Konigsberg, 416. Cathedral, 416. University, 416. Pil- lau, sturgeon and amber fishery, 417. ----to Tilsit and Memel, 417. ----to Danzig and Berlin, 418. Konigsgratz, 432. Konigslutter, 370. Konigstein in Saxony, 472. Konigstein in the Taunus, 509 Konigstuhl, 283. Korner’s Grave, 340. Kosen, 441. Kreutzberg, near Bonn, 268. Kreutzers, 486. Kreuznach, 513. — to Worms, by Alzey, 519. Krieblowitz, grave of Butcher at, 428. Kuhstall, 470. Kuilenburg, 88. Kunersdorf, battle of, 420. Kustrin, 412, Kyll river, 324. Laach, Lake of, 305. Excur- sion to, 273.305. Abbey of, 305. Laeken, palace of, 161. Lahn, the river, mouth of, 283. Descent of, from Gies- sen to Ems, 506. Lahnstein, 283. Landau, 528. Landek, 431. Landsberg, 413. Landshut, 429. Landskron, castle of, 516 I.andstuhl, 517. Langen Schwalback, 491. Languages, value of foreign, to the traveller, xiv. La Trappe, 158. Lauban, 423. Lauenburg, 340. Lauenforde, 404. Laufaettel, 211. Lausitz, Lusatia, 422. Leau, 192. Leer, 81. Leeuwarden, 80, Lehrte, 368. Leipzig, 413. Fairs, 413. Book-trade, 443. Univer- sity, 443. Auerbach’s cellar, 444. Gardens, 445. Battle of, 441. ----* to Berlin, 361. ----to Dresden, 445.- ----* to Frankfurt, 435. ----to Carlsbad, by railway to Altenburg, 477. ----to Coburg, 482. Lek, 88. Lemgo, 383. Leopoldshafen, 526. Leiden, 40. Siege of, 40. University, 42. Museum of Natural History, 42. Ja- panese and Egyptian MU- KPIlTn 49 Liebeneck, 284. Liebenstein, 284. ----Baths in the Thuringer Wald, 479. Liebethaler Grund, 468. Liebewerda Baths, in Bohe- mia. 494. Losheim, 320. Louvain, 190. Magnificent H6tel de Ville, 190. Cathe- dral, 190. University, 191. Tower of Jansenius, 192. ----to Maestricht and Aix- to Chaude Fontaine and Spa, 184. ----- to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Verviers, 184. ----* to Louvain, 190. ----* to Namur, 177. Liegnitz, 420. Lierre, 159. Lillenstein, 469. 472. Lille, 110. ----to Brussels, 111. Lillo Fort, 123. Limburg in Belgium, 186 Limburg on the Lahn, 507. Limburg on the Lenne, 374. Linnaeus’s residence in Hoi. land, 48. Linz on the Rhine, 272. Lippe Detmold, 383. Lippstadt, 366 Lissa, battle of, 421. Lobau, 423. Lobshorn — Stud at, 383. Loevestein, Grotius’s prison, 87. Lohnbedientcr, 207. Lohnkutscher, 212. London to Rotterdam, 25. — to Ostend,tl24. ----to Antwerp, 120. ----to Hamburg, 327. Loo, the, 82. Lorch, 288. Lorsch, 534. Lowenberg, 425. Lubeck, 333—336. Liihen, 419. Ludwigslust, 340. ----to Schwerin and Dobbe- ran, 340. Liineburg, 338. Lurleiberg, 286. Luther at Eisleben, 376. Mag- deburg, 373. Erfurt, 438. Wittenburg, 362. Capture of, 479. At Coburg, 481. His beech tree. 479. Worms, 520. Wartburg, 436 Lutter, 378. Luttich, 179. Lutxen, 442. The Swede’s Stone, 442. Campaign of 1813, 442. Liitzerath, 303. Luxemburg, 196. — * to Namur, 196. Maars, or crater lakes of the Eifel, 324. Maas, 25. Maestricht, 193. Citadel and caves of the Petersberg, 194. ----to Aix-la-Chapelle, 193. ----* to Brussels, 193. Magdeburg, 371—373. Forti- fications, 371. Cathedral, 372. Gardens, 372. Luther at, 373. ----* to Berlin, by railroad, 357. ----* to Hanover and Cologne, 366. ----* to Nordhausen and the Hartz, 401. ----* to Brunswick and Pa- derborn, 376. Magdesprung, 402. Mainau, ]sle of, 562. Mainz, 298. Malines, 159. Cathedral, 159. Paintings, 159. Church of Notre Dame, 160. Lace, 161. Malmedy, 323. Malplaquet, 202. Mannheim, 521. Its history, 521. Has few objects to detain travellers, 522. Pa- lace, gardens, theatre, club, 522. ----to Heidelberg and Sch wet- zingen, 522, 523. —- to Spires, 523; and Stras- burg, 523. — to Deux Ponls, by, Lan- dau, 527. Maps, travelling, of Germany, 209. Marburg, 384. Church of St Elizabeth, 384. Marceau, monument of, 276. Marche en Famenne, 196.INDEX. 571 Ma Tarienburg 415. on the Vistula, Marienburg on the Moselle, 1 316. Marken, Isle of, 73. Marxburg, 283. Marvel, Andrew, verses on Holland, 8.] Mayen,' 306. Mayence, 298—302. Cathe. dral, 298. Public gardens, 300. Tower of Drusus, theatre, 301. Museum, 300. Printing invented here; 301. Gutenburg’s statue, 301. ----* to Coblenz and down the Rhine, 298. ----* to Bingen by Ingelheim, 512. ----to Frankfurt, by railway, 512. ----to Mannheim and Heidel- berg, 517—526. ----to Metz, 516. ----by the Rhine to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, and Strasburg, 517. Mechlin, 159. Medemblik, 72. Meerfblder Maar, 324. Meiningen, 480. Meissen — Cathedral, china manufactory, 446. Meissner mountain, 375. Melibocus, 532. Memel, 418. Mendig quarries, 306. Menin, 118. - Meppel, 78. Merseberg, 442. Metternich, birth-place of Prince, 278. Castles, 317. * Metz to Mayence, 516. ; Meuse, the river, from Namur to Lidge, 177. ---- from Namur ,to Dinant and Givet, 197. Middelburg, 122. Mittman, 373. Money, best mode of taking abroad, xvi. Tables of Fo- reign, with the English value, xl.—xliv. Monnikendam, 73. Mons, 201. <— * to Brussels, 201. Montabauer, 508. Montjoie, 320. Montjardin, 187. Montroyal, 315. Moritzburg, 364. In Saxony, 365. Mosbach, 564. Moselle river, junction with the Rhine, 276. Ice on the, 277. Descent of, 313—320. Wines, 314. Steamers on the, 313. Moseikem, 318. Moselweiss, 319. Mousecron, 119. Mouse Tower, 290. Miihlberg, 446. Miihlheira on the Ruhr, 240. 366. Muhlhausen, 481. - Muiden, 77. Miinden or Minden, 367. Bat- tle — Anabaptists, of, 367. Miinden, 391. Munster, 378. 379. ----to Osnabruck and Bre- men, 380. ----to Detmold, 382. Munster-Mayfeld, 307. Muskau, 423. Murg, valley of the, 553. * My Uncle Toby, 142. 176. Naarden, 77. Nachod, 431. Nahe, river—Mouth of, 291. Excursion up the, 513. Namur, 176. Cathedral, 176. Church of St. Loup, 176. Citadel, 177. Cutlery, 177. ----to Dinant and Givet, 197. ----to LiSge, 177. ----to Luxemburg and Treves, 196. Nassau—Coins—posting, 483. 486. Castle of, 490. Baths and Brunnen, 489. 501. Naumburg, 441. Necfiar, source of, 559. — ■ at Heidelberg, 540. Meu-groschen, 4; Neumagen, 314. Neustadt Eberswalid, 407. Neustadt nn.der Haardt, 528. Neuss, 243. Neuwied,- 274. Nicholas, St., 143. Niederselters, 494. Niederwald, the, 291. Nienburg, 393. Nierstein vineyard, 518. Nieuwport, 120. Nicuwe Diep, 70. Nivelles, 175. Nonnenwerth, 271. Nordernei Isle, 382. Nordhausen, 376. ---. to Halle, 376. ---- to Magdeburg, and the Hartz, 401. Nordheim, 395. Nurberg, 304. Nymeqen, 76. Arrival, 88. nymegev, 76. Arrival Inns at, 76. ----* to Amsterdam, 76. ----* to Rotterdam, 84. ----to Cologne, by the Rhine, 239. --------;— by land, 242. ■ Oberlahnstein, 283. Oberstein, 515. Ober Ursel, 511. Oberwesel, 286. Odenwald, excursion in the, 531—534. Oederan, 476. Offenbach, 506. . Offenburg, 544. 558. ---- to Schaffhausen, by the vale of the Kinzig and Do- naueschingen, 558. Oggersheim, 520. Ohr, 405. Ohrdruff, 481. Oker, vale of, 396. Oldenburg, 339. Oldendorf, 405. Oliva, 414. Omer, St., 109. Oppeln, 432. Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic church, 518. Oranienbaura, 363. Oschatz, 445. Oschersleben, 371. OsnabrUck, 380. Ostend, 124. ----to Bruges and Ghent, 126. ----» to Calais, 120. Osterode, 395. Otterberg, 516. Ottonsen, 332. ! Ottowalder Grund, 468. Oudenarde, 112. Paderborn, 377. Pallien, 312. Passow, 408. Passports.—Necessity of, and mode of obtaining, xviii. _ French, xx. Prussian, xx. Austrian, xx. Belgian, xx. Dutch, 1. English, and Fo- reign Consuls’, xxi. English Secretary of State’s, xxi. Paulinzelle, 483. Pays de Waes, 143. Perck — Teniers’ house, 161. Petersberg, near Mae6tricht, caves of, 194. Pfahlgraben, 499. Pfalz, 287. Phillipsburg, 525. Physicians’ fees in Gei 228. Picture Galleries: — — Amsterdam, 55. " ----Antwerp, 151. ----Berlin, 348. —— Bruges, 130. — Brunswick, 368. ----Brussels, 163. — Cassel, 386. . ----Cologne, 259. ----Darmstadt, 530. —. Dresden, 452. — Frankfurt, 502. ----, Ghent, 137. ----Hague, 32—34. ----Hanover, 390. — Louvain, 190.- Pilln.itz, 467. Pirmasens, 529. Pirna, 473. Pisport, 314. Platte, the, 500. Plauen, 477. Plauensche Grund, 473. Polders, 13. In North Hol- land, 72. Polle, 404. Poniatowsky’s death, 442. Poppelsdorf, 268. Porta Wesphalica, 367. Posen, 419. Posting — In France and Bel- gium, rmany, 486.572 INDEX. Potzdam, 357—360. Tomb of Frederick the Great, 358. Palace, 358. Sans Souci,358. New Palace, 359. Russian colony, 360. — to Magdeburg, 357. ----to Dresden, 366. ----* * to Berlin, 357. Prebisch Thor, 471. Prenzlow, 408. Prum, 320. ----to Gerolstein and Spa, 323. Prussia—Passport, xx. New Inns, 938. Prussian commercial league, 208. Puffendorfs birth-place, 476. Pumpernickel, 375. Purmerende, 73. Putbus Baths, 410. P vrmont, watering place, 388. Mineral springs, 388. Gas Grotto, 389. to Hanover, 388. ----• to Frankfurt, 383. 388. ----* to Cologne, 366. Quatre Bras, 175. Quedlinburg, 402. Quentin Durward, 184. Radolfzell, 560. Rafts on the Rhine, 263. Railroads on the Continent : ----Amsterdam to Haarlem, Leyden, the Hague, and Rotterdam, 45. 49. ----Amsterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem, 73. ----Belgian, 97. 126. 159. 162. ----Mechlin to Li&ge, and Aix-la-Chnpelle, 184. 189. ----Aix-la-Cbapelle to Co- logne, 244. — Mayence to Frankfurt, 302. 512. ----Berlin to Potzdam, 357. -------- to K6then and Leipzig, 361. ----------to Stettin, 407. ----------to Frankfurt on the Oder, 419. —— Dusseldorf to Elberfeld, 373. ----Brunswick to Wolfenbut- tel and Hartzburg, 371. ----Brunswick to Hanover, 338. ----Brussels to Namur, by Charleroi, 195. ----Magdeburg to Leipzig, 445. ----Leipzig to Dresden, 445. — Frankfurt to Mayence and Wiesbaden, 501. 512. ,---Mannheim to Heidelberg, 523. — Frankfurt to Heidelberg, 530. •— Heidelberg to Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg,and Basle, Ratibor, 433. Rees, 240. Heichenberg, 430. Reichenberg Castle, 286. Reichartshausen Schloss, 296. Reinerz, 431. Reinhardsbrunn, 438. Remagcn, 272. — to Ahrweiler and Alten- ahr, 302. Reynolds, Sir J., description of the Dutch School, 18. ----School of Rubens, 104. ----pictures at the Hague, 33. ----------- at Amsterdam, 55. ----------■ at Antwerp, 145 —155. ■ at Cologne, 256. Rheenen, 89. Rheineck, 272. Rheinfels, 284. Rheingau, 288. Rheingrafenstein, 514. Rbeinsberg, 340. Rheinstein, castle of New, 289. Rhense, 283. The Rhine, mouth of, at Kat- wyk, 44. ----(A.) in Holland, 84—93. — ascent of, not recom- mended, 84. — Waal branch, Rotterdam to Nymegen, 85. — Lek branch, Rotterdam to Aruhem, 88. ----Yssel branch, 89. ----(B.) from Nymegen to Cologne, 239—242. ----(C.) Cologne to Coblenz, 261. ----Byron’s description of, 261. —— a German account of, 262. ----Rafts on the, 263. ----Scenery of, 265. — best mode of seeing, 265. — (D.) Coblenz to Mayence, 282. ----scenery near Bingen, 293. ----castles, 288. — Wines and vineyards, 289. 294. ----(E.) from Mayence to Strasburg, 517—524. ----scenery dull, 516. ----gold washed from its sands, 526. — caution as to taking places in the steamers direct from London, 264. Richard Cceur-de-Lion's priy son, 529. Riesbngedirge, 424—429. General account of the, 424. Sketch of a tour in, 424. Rinteln, 405. Rochefort, 200. Rode, origin of the termina- tion, 399. 541. Rodenstein Castle, 534 Rammelsbcrg mines, 397. Roderberg, 270. liastndt. Palace, 543. Congress Rogers on Travel, x. df, 543. | Roland Saule, 351. Rolandseck, 271. Roneberg, 484. Rossbach, 441. Rossln, 376. Rosslrappe, 400. Rostock, 338. Rotterdam, 26—29. ----to Hague and Amster- dam, 29. ----to Gouda and Utrecht, 82. ----to Nymegen, by the Waal, 85. — .to Arnheim, by the Lck, 88. ----ascent of the Rhine from. 84. Roubaix, 112. Roulers, 142. Rubeland, 399. Rubens’s chair, 151. Birth- place, 260. ----chateau at Steen, 161. ----pictures at Ghent, 136. - Antwerp, 145. 150. --------------Cologne, 256. ----school and character of 104. RUdeshcim, 294. Wine, 294. Rudolstadt, 482. RSi°en, Isle of, 409—412. Ruhrort, 240. Ruhr Valley, 240. Riimpchen, 303. Ryswyk, 31. Saalfield, 483. Saarbrucken, 515. lardam, I house, 67. Saar Louis, 516. Sagan, 420. Salm-Dyck, 261. Salzbrunn, 428. Salzig, 284. Sans Souci, 358. Sasbach, death ofTurenne,544. Saventhem, Vandyke's adven. ture at, 189- Saxon Switzerland, 466—473. Saxonv, 434—484. Money, 434. Posting, 434. Sayn Valley, and iron works of, 275. * Schaffhausen to Freiburg, 562. * . to Offenburg, 558. Schandau, 470. ----to Dresden, 472. Schauenberg Lippe, 368. Schelde, 120. Schevcningen, 39. Schiedam, 29. Schierstein, 297. Schlangenbad, 494. Schlaycn, 178. Schleusingen, 484. Schlusselburg, 405. Schmalkald, 480. Schmiedeberg, 426. Schneeberg, 478. Schneekoppe, 426. Schnellposts, 212. Schoenberg, or Schomberg, 287. Schoenecken, 321. Schcenbornlust, 276.INDEX* 573 Schoonhoven, 88. Schrock, 526. Schulpforta, 441. Schwalbach, 491. “ The Bub- bles,” 491. Springs, 492. Excursions, 493. Schwartzenbeck, 340. Schwarza, 482. Schwarzburg Castle, 483. Schwedt, 407. Schweidnitz, 428. Schwein General, the, 492., Schwelm, 374. Schwerin, 337. Schwetzingen, 522. Seesen, 378. Sellers, 494. Seltzer water, 494. Sembach, 516. Senner Wald, 383. Seraing, 179. Seven Mountains, 269. S’Gravenhage, 31. Sidney, Sir Philip, 90. Siebengebirge, 265. Sieg river, 266. Siegburg, 325. Silberberg, 430. Silesia, 419, 423. Singen, 560. Sinzig, 272. Skeleton tours, xxxiii. — Schmtoien, 484. Sobernheim, 514. Soder, 393. S< s Solingeri, 373. ireffc, 176. enberg,— its Soder, 393. Soest, 376. Soignies, Forest of, 168. singular ma- in® Sombri Sonnenberg, nufactures, 183. Sorau, 420. Spa, 185. Mineral springs, 186. Redoute, 186. Caves near, 188. ----* to Li&ge, 185. ----to Verviers, 188. ----toMalmedy andlhe Eifel, 323. Spamlau, 341. Speyk, Van, 123. Speyer, 523. Spires, 523—525. Its event- ful history, 523. Atrocities , of the French, 524. Cathe- dral, 524. Antiquities, 525. Alt portal, Retscher, 525. ----to Strasburg, 517, 526. ----* to Mayence, 517. Sprottau, 420. Stadtkill, 323. Staftclstein, 482. Stargard, 419. Starkenburg, 315. Stavelot, 323. Steamboats, List of, xxvii. — London to Rotterdam, 25. ------------Antwerp, 120. werp, IS Ostend, 124 Hamburg, to Ny: Rotterdam up the Rhine, 84. 327. ymegen, ----Amsterdam to Hamburg, 63. ----Cologne to Coblenz and Mayence, 264. eaml Petersburg, 337. to rg, 517. Rubens’s chateau at, Petersburg,! ----Mayence to Mannheim and Strasburg, 517. Steamboats, Lubec to ?ete - in ind Steen, 161. Steenkerk, 201. Steig, 563. Steinberg vineyard and wine, 297. Sterne’s Advice to Travellers, xii. Stettin, 408. ----to Swinemunde and Rii- gen, 408, 409. ----* to Berlin, Railroad, 407. Stolzenau, 405. Stolberg, 401. Stolberg in Rhen. Prussia,250. Stolzenfels, 282. Storks in Holland, 21. Stralsund, 410. Strasbubg, 555. Monument to Dessaix, 555. The Rhine at, 554. Minster, 555. Spire, 555. Marshal Saxe’s monu- ment,. 556. Museum 'and library, 556. Invention of printing, 557. Arsenal, 557. The Jews’ Synagogue, 557. Pdtes de foies gras, 557. Ru. prechstau, 557- — to Paris in 36 hours, 557. — to the Ban de la Roche, 557. — • to Mayence, 517. ----to Schaffhausen and Con- stance, by Donauescliingen, 558. ----* to Baden, 554. ‘ ----* to Frankfurt, by Carls- ruhe and Heidelberg, 535. *Striegau, 428. Stubbenkammer, 411. Stuhlingen, 563. Stuhl, 482. Stultz, Baron, hospital founded by, 542. His birth-place, 542. Swinemunde, baths, 408. ----to Riigen, 408. Tables-d’h6te in Germany, 205. Tafelfichte, 423. Tantow, 408. Taunus mountains, 509. Telgte, 380. Tergouw, 83. Termonde, 142. Terneusen, 122. Tervueren, 190. Tete de Flandres Texel, 71. Tharandt, 473. Thorout, 142. Thuringian Forest, routes in, 479—483. Hunting in, 481. Thurnberg, 284. Tilburg, 92. Tilly’s birthplace, 168. Atro- cities at Magdeburg, 371. Tilsit, 418. Tirlemont, 192. Titles, German, 220. Tollhuis, 89. Tongres, 193. es, 143. Tonnerre, Mont, 516. Tours, sketches of, xxxii.— xxxvii. Tournay, 113. Traben, 315. Trarbach, 315. Trass, 273. Trautenau, 429. Travemunde, 337. Travelling, maxims and hints for, ix___xvi. — requisites for, xxvi. Treis, 317. Treisam, 563. Trekschuiten—in Holland, 4. Treves, 308. History of, 308. Antiquities, 308. Cathedral, 309. Church of our Lady, 309. Heathen’s tower, 309. Roman baths or White Gate, 310. Amphitheatre, 310. Black Gate, 311. Bridge, 312.. Library, Codex Au- reus, 312. Igel, 312. ----* to Coblenz, 306. —— -------down the Moselle, 313. ----* to Aix-la-Chapelle, 320. ----* to Bingen, 325. Trier, 308. Trifels Castle, prison of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, 529. Trinkgeld, 210. Trond, St., 193. Tryberg, 553. Tumhout. 158. Tyrolese Protestant exiles in Silesia, 427. Uerdingen, 240. Unkelstein, 271. Unna, 366. Utrecht, 73. Stadhuis, 74. Cathedral, 74. Maliebaan, 74. ----to Nymegen, 75. —* to Amsterdam, 73. ----* to the Hague, 84. * Utrecht to Rotterdam by Gouda, 82. — to Arnhem, 75. Vach, 436. Valenciennes, 112. Valets de Place, 207. Vandyk, 119. 189. Vautsberg or Neu Rheinstein. 289. Veckerhagen, 403. Vehin Gericht, 366. Verden, S93. Verviers, 188. Vesdre, valley of the, 184. 188. Vianden, 322. Vianen, 88. Victoria, Roman remains of, 275. Vigilantes, 99. Villingen, 559. Vilvorde, 161. Verneberg Castle, 304. Vistula, mouth of the, 413.415. Vlaafdingen, 25. Vlissingen, 121. Voigtland, 477.574 INDEX. Voorburg, 40. 84. Vorspann, 209. Vreeswyk, 88. Waal branch of the Rhine, 85. Wageningen, 89. Wahlstadt, 420. Walloon language, 100. Walcheren, 120. Wallporzheim, 303. Wandsbeck, 333. Warbeck, Perkin, 114. Warmbrunn, — Baths, 425. River Zacken, 426. Kie- nast, 426. Schneekoppe, 426. Wartburg, Luther’s prison, Wassenach, 305. Watering-places,German, 225. Watergueusen, 25. Waterloo, 169—175. Plan of, 171. Wedigenstein, 405. Weichsel or Vistula, 413. Weilburg, 507. Weimar, 439. Palace, Library, 440. Theatre, Churchyard, 440. Gothc’s house and grave, 440. Weinheim, 535. Weiss on the Mosel, 319. Weissenfels, 441. Weissenthurm, 275. Werra river, 479, 480. Werther, scene of his “ Sor- rows,” 506. Wesel, 240. Weser river, 403—405. Westmael, 158. Westphalia, 367. Wetzlar, 506. “ Sorrows of Werther,” 507. Wiesbaden, 497. Inns and baths, 497. Kur Saal, 497. Kochbrunnen, 498. Tem- perature of the springs, 498. I Roman remains, 499. Pfahlgraben—a wall extend- ing from the Rhine to the Danube, 499. Museum, Theatre, Platte, 500. Bi- berich, 501. ----* to Coblenz, 497. ----to Frankfurt, by railway, ----to Eppstein, Falkenstein, and the Taunus,,5Q9. Wiesloch, 541. Wilhelmshohe, palace and gar- den, 387. Willemsoord, 78. Willgartswiesen, 529. Windmills in Holland, 52. Wines and vineyards of the Rhine, 289. Winkel, 296. Winterberg, 471, Wismar, 337- De Witt’s death, 32. Wittenberg, 362. Witzenhausen, 375. Woerden, 84. Wolfenbuttel, 371. Worlitz, 363. Worms, 519. Present state and former greatness; seat of imperial Diets, 519. Ca- thedral, 519. — to Kreutznach, by Alzey. 520. Wunstorf, 393. Wiippor, valley of the, 374. Wyk, by Duurstede, 89. Xantcn, 243. Yburg, 378. Ypres, 118. Yssel river, 89. Zaandam, 66. Zahringen, 545. Zand, het, 70. Zapfendorf, 482. Zealand, 120. Zeist, 75." Zella, 432. Zeltingen, 315. Zittau, 430. Zollverein, 208. Zorndorf, 413. Zulpich, 250. 321. Zutphen, 90. Zwanziger, coin, 486. Zweibriicken (Deux Ponts), 529. Zwingenberg, 532. Zwolle, 77. THE END. London : Spottiswoodes and Shaw, New-street-Square.INDEX MAP to the HAOTB©© Kfom TRAVELLERS . 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